"Combat Knives" by Allen Elishewitz

Combat Knives By Allen Elishewitz

Throughout history combat has taken troops into different environements like desert, jungle
and even urban warfare. There are certain characteristics a knife must possess for different
warfare conditions. In my opinion, I consider a fixed blade to be the primary cutting tool of
a basic soldier. The problem with any type of mechanical knife is that the chances of
something going wrong is greater. My experiences as a team leader in a Recon unit gave
me the insights of what a real combat knife should possess. The inherent properties which
determine a combat knife are: blade, guard, handle and sheath. In combat, a knife's main
purpose is a tool, secondarily a weapon.

Blade A combat knife's blade should not be so small that it cannot be used as a tool. But on
the other hand, it should not be so long that it gets in the way. A good length for a blade is
from 5½ to 7½ inches. The best thickness for the blade is 3/16" but if the individual does
not mind the extra weight 1/4" is also good. The finish is very important it must not reflect
light in a combat situation. Beadblasting or a dark satin finish is the best way to subdue a
blade. However, you can use PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), bluing, parkerizing, or any
darkening method to cover the glare. It is very important to have a single edged blade for
combat. You loose strength and the ability to use it as a tool if the blade is double edged.
Serrations are an excellent addition on a combat knife, however saw blades will lessen the
necessary characteristics for use as a tool. The weight of the blade can make some work
easier, but proper cutting technique can achieve the same amount of work with a thinner,
smaller knife. For example instead of hacking at a piece of wood with a big knife, one can
achieve the same task with a smaller knife using a chisel cutting technique. When
patrolling, you might consider carrying a sterile knife, this means the knife has no
markings. If the knife is lost in combat, the enemy cannot tell who or what unit is in the
area.

Guard The best material for combat guards is stainless steel because it is strong. The guard
can also be incorporated as an intrical part of the handle material. Like the blade, the guard
must not reflect any light. The guard even more so because the majority of the time the
knife will be sheathed and the sheath will not cover the guard. Beadblasting or some kind
of coating on the guard will eliminate that problem. Whether you have a bolster or a slip
over guard they both must be soldered or epoxied. Both methods not only secure the guard
but most importantly protect the tang from moisture. Inadequate protection can lead to
rusting in joints which will weaken the knife it its most critical location. A full double guard
is impractical because it will get in the way and add extra weight to the knife. A more
sensible guard style would be single or one and a half. A single guard allows you to draw
the knife from the sheath with limited possibility of snagging. If you find it necessary to
have a top guard, go with half a guard. The top guard is half the length of the bottom guard.
This gives you added protection and leverage when using the knife.
Handle The handle material must not absorb any kind of liquid nor crack or shrink. The
handle should be able to absorb continous vibrations and shocks from chopping or cutting.
The ideal handle materials for combat knives are G-10 or linen Micarta. A good dark color
and non reflective surface is the best finish for a combat knife. Make sure the knife fits
snugly in your hand and does not slip when wet. If the handle is too short, your hand will
feel cramped and you could not use the pommel as a hammer. The handle should be long
enough that you can grip it in several different positions when necessary. On a full tang
knife, make sure the maker uses screws and bolts or no less than five pins to attach the
handle onto the tang. Personally I prefer a hidden tang knife for a combat situation because
the tang is completely protected within the handle and the handle absorbs more shocks than
a full tang knife. A thong hole is another good idea, it allows you to attach a cord and tie it
to your belt. This will ensure against losing it in the brush. Round off all the corners on the
handle to prevent the knife from feeling uncomfortable after a long period of use.

Sheath The sheath should be attached to your body in a way that it does not produce any
sound during movement. At the same time, it should not obstruct your physical movement.
The sheath must not absorb moisture, crack, dry rot or tear. It must not reflect light or make
a sound when drawing the knife. The two best materials for combat sheaths are Kydex and
nylon. Both are extremely durable and will not rust the blade. The ideal combination is a
nylon sheath with a kydex insert, this blends the best of both worlds. Also, adding two
securing devices will allow you to be airborne and water qualified. Do not forget to add a
drain hole in your sheath which will help keep the inside clean and dry.
"Plain vs. Serrated Knife" by Joe Talmadge

Contents:

I. Introduction
II. Plain vs. Serrated: The Conventional View
III. Plain vs. Serrated Re-thought
IV. What Should I Carry?
V. Thoughts On The Partially-Serrated Blade

I. Introductions

There's been a jump in recent years in the popularity of serrated edges, and there's often
confusion as to when a serrated edge is advantageous, versus when a plain edge is
advantageous. The question comes up often in rec.knives.

For our discussion, we'll need to talk about what we're doing with the knife. Think about
what you can do with a knife: you can shave, slice, slash, saw, hack, chop, etc. For our
purposes, we'll divide all knife uses into two very broad categories:
Push cuts: The main cutting is done by pushing the edge through the thing-to-be-cut. For
example, when you shave, you push the edge of the knife through your beard. When
peeling an apple, you push the edge under the skin of the apple. When chopping wood, you
try to push the edge into and through the wood.

Slicing cuts: The cutting action is substantially done by dragging the edge across the thing-
to-be-cut. When you slice meat or a tomato, you drag the edge across the tomato as you cut
through it. Slicing and sawing are examples of slicing cuts.

II. Plain vs. Serrated: The Conventional View

In general, the plain edge is better than the serrated when the application involves push
cuts. Also, the plain edge is superior when extreme control, accuracy, and clean cuts are
necessary, regardless of whether or not the job is push cuts or slices.

In general, the serrated edge will work better than the plain edge for slicing cuts, especially
through hard or tough surfaces, where the serrations tend to grab and cut the surface easily.
Some of the cutting power of the serrated edge is due to its format alone; thus, even a dull
serrated edge knife will often perform competently at slicing jobs. The serrated edge gets
its slicing ability from a number of factors. The high points on the serrations will touch the
material first, and this gives those points higher pressure per area than if the same pressure
was applied to a plain blade; this allows the serration to puncture more easily. In addition,
serrations are normally chisel-ground into the blade, which means they are thinner (and
thus cut better) than the comparable plain blade.

The plain edge will work better for applications like shaving, skinning an apple, skinning a
deer. All those applications involve either mostly push cuts, or the need for extreme control.
Serrations work really well on things like tough rope or wood, where the serrations bite
through quickly.

Generally, the more push cuts are used, the more necessary it is for the plain edge to have a
"razor polished" edge. A knife edge becomes more polished when you move to higher and
higher grit stones. Generally, 1200-grit is considered polished; a 6000+ grit Japanese water
stone would polish the edge further.

One interesting case is cutting a tomato. In theory, you can just push a blade through a
tomato, so a razor polished plain edge would work fine. However, the tomato is soft, and
unless your plain edge knife is very sharp, the tomato will simply squish when you start
pushing. You can (and many people do) use a slicing motion with your plain blade, but if
it's even a little dull it won't cut well and it may not even break the skin. Use a sawing
motion with a serrated knife (even a dull one), and your tomato will slice fine.

You will read about test after test where the above view is confirmed. That is, the plain
edge excels in push cuts, and the serrated excels in slicing cuts. This confirms the
conventional view @... to an extent.
III. Plain vs. Serrated Re-thought

Since actual tests confirm the truth of the conventional view, what more is there to be said?
The problem is that the tests are often not as thorough as they need to be. That is, when
testing plain vs. serrated performance, most tests are comparing a plain polished edge to a
serrated edge. Given that, it is no surprise that the serrated blade easily outperforms the
plain blade when cutting (for example) rope.

A polished edge is not the only choice with a plain blade. One can get the plain edge to
perform much differently when sharpened with coarser stone. People who cut rope often
use a plain edge sharpened on a file, to get an incredibly coarse, "micro-serrated" edge that
performs wonderfully at slicing jobs. So the knife testers are testing with polished plain
edges, whereas people experienced with cutting rope use coarsely-ground plain edges.

Whether or not serrated blades will out-slice coarse-ground plain blades seems to depend
on the medium being cut. Harder materials (or materials under tension) do well for serrated
blades. With softer materials, the serrations will sometimes catch and unwind the material
rather than cut -- in this case, coarse-ground plain blades may easily out-slice serrated
blades.

So the claim that serrated edges work better than plain edges for slicing needs to be re-
examined. It appears that as materials get harder or put under more tension, the serrated
edge may slice a bit better than a coarse-ground plain edge. As the material gets softer and
looser, the coarse-ground plain edge may slice a bit better. And as we go towards push cuts,
the polished plain edge comes into its own. The user may want to experiment on those
materials that he often cuts, before choosing the edge format.

In addition, keep in mind that the coarse plain edge is much easier to sharpen than the
serrated edge. Just grab your file or extra coarse stone, take a few swipes, and you're ready
to go. With the serrated blade, you'll need to find a sharpening rig with the special serrated
blade sharpener. Balancing this is the fact that serrated blades need to be sharpened less
often.

IV. What Should I Carry?

Should you carry a serrated blade or plain blade for everyday utility carry? Unless you
*know* that the majority of work you'll be doing heavily favors slicing or pushing (e.g., "I
spend all my time whittling"), it may not matter much. My experience has been that general
utility work is usually general enough that either format works just fine, though these days I
tend to lean towards plain blades. Also keep in mind that by changing your sharpening
strategy on the plain edge, you can significantly change its characteristics. If you do a lot of
push cutting, you want to go with a razor polished plain edge. If you do a lot of slicing,
you'll need to decide between a coarse-ground plain edge and a serrated edge. I don't mind
sharpening, so I lean towards plain blades, strategically sharpened to the right grit (polished
or coarse) for the jobs I happen do be doing.
Occasionally, people mention that the serrated edge looks intimidating to the masses. This
could be good if you're using this knife primarily for self defense and want an intimidation
factor. Or it could be bad, if you're carrying for utility work and don't want to scare people
(especially the nice officer who pulled you over for speeding and asks to look at the knife
in your sheath). Rumor has it that airport guards are particularly strict about serrated edges.
Other than at airports, I don't think the menacing appearance of the serrated edge is
important enough either way to affect what I carry.

V. Thoughts On The Partially-Serrated Blade

Another option is the combination plain/serrated edge. This format appears to have
overtaken the all-serrated format. Typically, the 50%-60% of the blade nearest the tip is
plain, while the back 40%-50% is serrated. There are mixed feelings on this format. Many
people swear by this format, and feel that it is a good compromise, giving the user the
choice of precise push cuts from the plain edge, and the advantage of the serrated edge for
tougher materials. However, keep in mind that on a 3.25" blade, there's maybe 1.25" of
serrations. The detractors of this format feel that 1.25" is too short a length for the
serrations to be really be useful, and the length of the plain edge is being sacrificed for no
good gain.

My own philosophy on partially-serrated blades at the moment is that since I have both
edge formats in one knife, I try to let each one shine in their respective areas. So I'm razor
polishing the plain edge part, often on a 1200 grit diamond stone or even 6000 grit Japanese
water stone, and then stropping it. The plain edge is scary sharp for push cuts, and I use the
serrations when I need to cut through hard or fibrous material.

Partially-serrated blades are often serrated at the "wrong" place. For example, for camp use,
I might want the belly serrated for cutting my steak, and the part near the handle razor-
polished for whittling and control-type usage. However, 99.9% of partially-serrated blades
are ground exactly the opposite: the ripping inaccurate serrations are at the control part of
the blade, and the plain part is out at the slicing part.

In theory, one can use a plain blade to get similar performance to a partially-serrated blade.
Just razor polish the plain blade, and then rough up one part of the edge on a file, to get a
knife that will excel at push cuts at one point of the blade, and excel at slicing cuts at
another.
File Work Patterns:
By Curtis M. Wilson
(click to enlarge)

File work has been used for many years and by many knife makers to enhance their work.
The following are a few original patterns and some of my own. One of the best things that I
have found to use as a practice item is aluminum. Use either a blue or black magic marker
or metal blue die-chem. Then you can lay out the pattern. To lay out the pattern I use a
flexible metal 6 inch ruler and a scribe.

Patterns can be of a geometric type or of a specific item. I have found that jewelers files
work well but must be of a good quality, also chain saw files work very well for the round
cuts and they come in two sizes. I have read many articles on file work, as well as
demonstrated file work during a class given by: Johnny Stout and Harvey Dean. During the
class I actually demonstrated file work doing a Wrap-Around Rope pattern on the spine of a
folder blade thus no need for a nail nick as the bottom edges of the rope acted as a nail nick
for either the right or left hand.

Some of the files used must have one thing done to them to work best and that is to actually
grind smooth one side of them: 1) the triangle file - one side flat, 2) the flat file - one side
edge flat, 3) the square file - one side flat. -(You will notice as you cut that the edge against
the flat or smooth side will cut cleaner and quicker.) Also you will need to cut away from
some of the points without actually cuffing into the point of its origin and the flat side of
the file will allow you to do just that.

The following is a list of patterns and of the files used to make them: # 1) Tusk Walking
(A)1/2 Round File or an Oval File; (B) Triangle File with one side smooth; (C) Flat File or
the flat of a Triangle File. First cut Is A, Second cut is B, third cut Is C.

# 2) Horns Walking (D) 1/2 Round File; (E & F) Triangle File. First cut is D, Second cut is
E, Third cut is F.

# 3) Split Horns (G) 1/2 Round File or Oval File; (H & 1) Triangle File; (J) Oval File. First
cut is G, Second cut is H, Third cut is 1, Forth cut is J.

# 4) Claws (K) Round File, 1/2 Round File, or an Oval File; (L) Triangle File. First cut is
K, Second cut is L1, Third cut is L2.

# 5) Arrow Heads (M & 0) Triangle File; (N) Oval File - Oval Edge. First cut is N, Second
cut is M, Third cut is 0.

# 6) Rope (P) Round or Oval File; (Q) Triangle File. First cut Is P, Second cut is Q. The
Rope pattern is basically an elongated S cut, then another one connecting the two points,
with a thin cut connecting the two points to give it the braided or thread appearance
# 7) Wave-Broken Double Cut (R) Oval File or 1/2 Round File may be used; (S) Triangle
File. First cut is R, Second cut is S.

# 8) Double cut (Either alternating file cuts or the same for both sides.) (T) Triangle File;
(U) Round or Oval File.

# 9) Wave - Saw Tooth M Round File. Only cut even side cuts.

# 10) Double Wave (W) 1/2 Round File or Oval File. Only cut odd side cuts (alternating).

# 11) Large Wave - Broken Double Cut. See #7.

# 12) Bat Ears Wave. Modified # 11. *

#13) Modified Bat Ears Wave. Modified # 12.

# 14) Zulu Spear (I) Triangle File; (g) Sharp .V File; (h) Oval File; 0) round File. Note the
Sharp V file is a very thin V-shaped file with a smooth back (it only has one cutting edge),
sort of a flat triangle file with two sides smooth.

#15) Vine Patterns like the in the side illustration will normally move toward the tip or the
point of the blade. They can also be used with engraving and scrimshaw, to give an overall
scene. Which is what I have done here with this sketch of a work in progress.
"Cyber Blades" By Pat Covert
from American Handgunner Magazine

KnifeArt.com offers the leading

custom knivesonline, plus special
limited editions from the top
bladesmiths.

The Internet has proven to be lightning-

in-a-bottle for many a savvy business.
Where else can you get information to a
customer so fast, so friendly and so
cheap? The smart money recognized
this early on, and many built their
business from scratch in cyberspace.
One such success story is that of
KnifeArt.com.

KnifeArt.com is an Internet website

devoted to selling high-quality custom
knives of all types. The company is the
brainchild of Larry Connelley, a young
Arkansas native who forged his love of both fine custom knives and the Internet into a
profitable cutlery business that sells literally hundreds of knives from today’s top
knifemakers.

While most of his peers in their early twenties were slapping diapers on their first born or
planning their next brewsky with the boys, Connelley was contemplating how to be an
entrepreneur in the cutlery business. His game plan was not that of scads of knife purveyors
before him— he wouldn’t be selling his wares at shows. Instead, Connelley went straight to
the Web, launching KnifeArt.com at the tender age of 24.

I remember being referred to his site shortly after it went up. Knowing many of the major
custom knife resellers personally, I had never met this new name to the game. I was,
nonetheless, very impressed with the site.

The graphics were as slick as any I’d seen, the selection was incredible, and the list of
makers read like the dean’s list of custom makers. The more I navigated the site, the more
taken I became with the overall professionalism.

Southern Roots

Shortly thereafter, the editor of American Handgunner, Cameron Hopkins, introduced me to

Larry Connelley at the 1998 Blade Show in Atlanta. One might expect a person who builds
and maintains his own website to be somewhat of a techno-weenie, but not in Connelley’s
case. He’s got the drawl and laid-back demeanor of a true Southerner, and his enthusiasm
for knives rings through with unmistakable passion.

The roots of Connelley’s interest in knives goes back to his formative years as an Eagle
Scout who spent much time backpacking and camping in the rough-and-tumble hills and
dales of Arkansas. His main area of interest is Bowie knives, and the nice selection found
on KnifeArt.com is well-represented by some of the nation’s top makers. His fondness for
big camp knives, however, hasn’t stood in the way of his business sense. While
KnifeArt.com sells knives from all categories of personal cutlery, Connelley’s big sellers
are tactical folders and fixed blade knives. A quick glance at the sites offering readily
confirms that Larry knows the big boys in the industry and that he gets a nice pick of their
latest offerings.

A smart businessman, Connelley keeps his expansive selection of knives in a wide price
range to keep his customers coming back for more. He attends many custom shows
throughout the year solely for the purpose of buying knives for the KnifeArt.com and
touching base with the knifemakers. Recently, he made a trip to South Africa to purchase
knives from a growing number of hot makers.

On the site you’ll find an ample grouping a knives from both well-established names to
those on the way up. Prices for a custom knife can range from as little as $150 for a good
all around using knife all the way up to $3,500 for an exhibition grade fighter. The prices
for a given maker’s knives are just the same if ordered direct from the source.

There are tacticals for all purposes as well. The range of combat folders is particularly
impressive, and cyber customers can easily compare one knife to the next to determine their
needs. In Connelley’s words, “My customers are passionate about a good knife. They love
viewing my website, checking in often to see what I brought home from the latest show. I
update the site frequently— as soon as I get new items in— so it’s like being able to attend
a knife show whenever you want.”

KnifeArt.com’s choices knifemakers includes names like Allen Elishewitz, Greg Lightfoot,
Ernest Emerson, Kit Carson and the father/son team of Pat and Wes Crawford. To add a bit
more spice to the equation, Connelley often offers exclusive knives from top artisan’s that
can only be found on KnifeArt.com.

To make knife viewing and selection easier, Connelley has designed his site to be user-
friendly. Customers can view knives by a given category or by knifemaker. Each individual
knifemaker has his or her own page with, in most instances, a photo with biographical
information and the knives available shown in thumbnail fashion with a basic description.

Knives can be instantly reserved via an e-mail link on the main page that can also serve for
asking Connelley further questions about his offerings. Credit card transactions can be
conducted through secure server or by telephone during normal weekday business hours.
The only thing Larry hasn’t figured out how to do is allow the customer to handle the knife
while shopping.

KnifeArt.com features custom knives from over 100 different knifemakers in a dozen
different categories. The incredible selection, especially in the realm of tacticals, is
certainly one of the best on the ’Net. Best of all, you can order a custom cutter from a top
name in the industry and have it in a day or two as opposed to the lengthy wait often
associated with high-demand knifemakers.

A Knife Prayer by Morris Herring

by: Morris Herring

Heavenly Father, Thank you for my Knife Family. Help me, that they would see Jesus in
me.
Forge me into a caring person that would be a good witness. Sharpen me, to cut all sin from
my life.

Guard me, from saying the wrong thing, that I might not offend or hurt someone's feelings
and lose my witness to them.

Father, let me be able to Handle all trials and tribulations that come my way.

Finally, Father, let me help Sheathe lost souls into your Fold. Father, let me use my craft to
be a witness and to point the way that the unsaved might follow our Glorious Jesus.

Amen.

Geometry of a Cutting Edge by Allen Elishewitz

by Allen Elishewitz

There are many misconceptions about the cutting edge of a knife. Some people believe a
knife's sharpness should be determined by its ability to shave or how aggressively it cuts.
Others believe that by feeling the cutting edge they can determine the sharpness. A common
misunderstanding occurs when a customer comments on how dull the edge feels. The
maker must then demonstrate the sharpness by shaving the hair of his arm and/or pushing it
through a piece of paper with little effort. This is a common experience amongst
knifemakers.

Edge types can be divided into two categories: macro and micro levels. The micro level is
not the angle of the bevel but the actual cutting surface. The surface of the cutting edge can
be either smooth or serrated. A smooth cutting surface is when the edge has been honed to a
mirror finish, the surface is so smooth that the cutting edge feels dull and non-aggressive.
This type of sharpening produces the longest lasting edge available on a knife. A
comparative example is a razor blade which has a smooth, long-lasting cutting edge. The
serrated surface is similar to Spyderco's serrations, but on a much smaller scale. To produce
a serrated edge the sharpener stops at a coarse grit such as 400 or 600 grit. This is a quicker
and easier edge to obtain. The edge feels like a small saw, it is very aggressive and is
similar to Damascus. The disadvantage of this type of edge is that once the teeth have worn
away, you are left with a dull wire edge. The serrated edge is ideal for people who need to
make quick, time-saving strokes, but are not concerned with the edge durability. Serrated
edges will not last as long as smooth ones, but they will cut faster before they wear out.
The macro level is the grind and bevel of the blade. For each bevel or change of angles on
the blade a point is created. These points affect the cutting performance of the knife. The
more points a blade has, the more drag it creates. The convex grind (Moran grind) or "V"
grind have been very successful over the years in regards to the cutting ability. This can be
attributed to fact that it has no points (Fig. 1). The down side of these grinds is that it is
very difficult for the user to correctly resharpen the knife. Another way to reduce the points
is to employ a grinding technique made famous by the Japanese: chisel grind. This is done
by grinding only one side of the blade, thereby reducing the angles by half (Fig. 2).
Although this grinding technique makes the blade cut towards one side and is hard to
control. For traditional grinding, which most makers are familiar with, there is the problem
of too many points. By rolling the bevel on the cutting edge the sharpener will reduce the
points by two. This will give the user a smoother cutting blade (Fig. 3).
Another factor which affects the cutting, chopping or slashing of a knife is the height of the
bevel. The shorter the bevel is, the more of a wedging effect will be produced when cutting.
Short bevels are ideal for knives that are designed for heavy work. Higher bevels are more
suitable for knives that are designed for smoother cutting. If a bevel was kept at a uniform
height, such as 3/4" on 3 different blade thickness, such as 1/4", 3/16" and 1/8" stocks, the
blades would perform differently. This is due to the different angles produced ranging from
shallow to steep. The steeper angle will perform better for slashing and fine cuts. This is
within the same concept that the height of the bevel. It is all a game of angles when it
comes to determining what edge is needed for a particular knife.