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A. Mahdavi and N. Talebbeydokhti
1
Graduate student, Department of Civil Engineering, Shiraz University, Shiraz, Iran.
Email: amahdavi.ir@gmail.com
2
Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, Shiraz University, Shiraz, Iran.
Email: taleb@shirazu.ac.ir
Abstract
In this paper, a finite volume model based on the non-linear shallow water (NLSW)
equations is developed to investigate the propagation and run-up of non-breaking and
breaking solitary waves. The total variation diminishing version of weighted average
flux (TVD-WAF) explicit method in conjugation with the Harten-Lax-van Leer
(HLL) approximate Riemann solver estimates the numerical flux in the governing
equations. The bed topography and friction source terms are treated in a fully
implicit way. The accuracy of the model is verified by recourse to available
experimental data as well as existing run-up laws.
Introduction
The numerical study of the solitary wave propagation and run-up on a sloping beach
has received extensive attention in the coastal hydrodynamics. It may be due to the
fact that many characteristics of tsunamis can be simulated using the solitary waves
or combinations of negative and positive solitary-like waves (Li and Raichlen, 2001).
The non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations have been widely employed to
describe the evolution and run-up process of solitary waves. Unfortunately, the
mathematical difficulties associated with wave breaking often cause drawback to
attain a fully theoretical approach. Therefore, efforts have been made in seeking for
numerical solutions of the NLSW equations. There have been a relatively large
number of numerical models that treat the moving shoreline by adding new grid
points during run-up and subtracting the points that were not covered by water during
run-down (e.g., Hibbert and Peregrine, 1979; Titov and Synolakis, 1995; Kowalik,
2001). Some numerical run-up models invoke the minimum depth criterion to locate
the shoreline position (e.g., Hu et al. 2000; Que and Xu 2005; Mahdavi and
Talebbeydokhti, 2009). A different shoreline-tracking approach is based on a
computing domain mapping which transforms the time-varying physical domain onto
a time invariant fixed-length computational domain (e.g., Zhang, 1996).
In the present work, a general numerical scheme has been developed for one-
dimensional free-surface flow problems including dry bed conditions and/or flow
discontinuities. The model was especially adopted for the calculation of solitary
wave run-up. This involves solving an initial value problem for NLSW equations.
The moving shoreline is automatically handled in the numerical scheme and no
ad-hoc term is required to eliminate the spurious oscillations near the breaking wave
front. The capability of the model has been verified by proper numerical tests.
Governing equations
The propagation and run-up of two dimensional solitary waves can be appropriately
described by the non-linear shallow water equations as follows:
∂U ∂F
+ =S (1)
∂t ∂x
where the vector of conserved variables U, the flux vector F, and the source term S
are defined as:
hu
h 0
U = , F(U) = , S (U ) = .
hu hu 2 + 1 gh 2 gh (S 0 − S f ) (2)
2
In the above equations, t denotes time, x is the horizontal coordinate taken to be
positive seaward with x=0 at the initial position of the shoreline, h(x,t) is the water
depth, u(x,t) is the depth-averaged velocity and g is the gravitational acceleration.
The bottom slope S 0 and the friction slope S f are respectively given by:
2
dz n Manning uu
S0 = − b Sf = (3)
dx h 4/3
where zb(x) is the bottom elevation and nManning denotes the Manning’s friction
coefficient. It is also appropriate to define the free surface elevation
asη(x,t)=h(x,t)+zb(x).
S R F ( U L ) − S L F ( U R ) + S R S L (U R − U L )
F ( U* ) = (4)
SR −SL
This flux together with F(U L ) ≡ F(U i ) and F(U R ) ≡ F(U i +1 ) will be further used to
estimate the inter-cell flux Fi +1/ 2 in which index i+1/2 denotes the interface between
two neighboring cells i and i+1. In (4), S L and S R represent the wave speed
estimates on the left and right sides of the cell interface i+1/2, respectively. These
wave speeds can be calculated by (Toro, 1992):
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33rd IAHR Congress: Water Engineering for a Sustainable Environment
In above expressions h * and u * denote, respectively, the flow depth and velocity in
the intermediate region of the wave structure. Using the two-rarefaction approach,
these flow variables can be evaluated by these closed-form solutions (Toro, 2001):
2
1 1 1 1
h* = ( ghL + ghR ) + (u L − u R ) , u * = (u L + u R ) + ghL − ghR (6)
g 2 4 2
The aforementioned estimates of wave speeds are valid only when the entire
computational domain is covered by a finite water depth. However, in presence of a
dry bed region, these wave speeds should be replaced by the following analytical
wave front speeds which are essentially emerged from the exact solution of the dry
bed Riemann problem.
Indeed, this approach provides a relatively simple treatment of dry bed states as it
does not require significant modification to the basic numerical scheme or additional
damping term to deal with the moving wet-dry front. To compute the inter-cell
numerical fluxes, the weighted average flux (WAF) method is employed in which a
limiter function enforces the total variation diminishing (TVD) constraint on the
scheme. Thereby, sufficient dissipation is added to the scheme to guarantee the
monotonicity near large gradients of the solution. The TVD-WAF scheme preserves
second order accuracy in space and time and may be written as:
1 1 N
Fi +1/ 2 = (Fi + Fi +1 ) − ∑ sign(c k )φi(+k1/) 2 ∆Fi(+k1/) 2 (8)
2 2 k =1
is the limiter function. Some suitable choices for limiter function are reported by
Toro (2001). The well-known van Albada’s limiter has been used for the present
applications. It is given by:
1 for r ( k ) ≤ 0,
φi(+k1)/ 2 = (1 − c k )r ( k ) (1 + r ( k ) ) (9)
1 − (k ) 2
otherwise.
1 + (r )
(k)
where r is the ratio of the upwind change to the local change in flow depth.
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∆hi(−k1/) 2
(k ) for c k > 0,
(k ) ∆hi +1/ 2
r = (k ) (10)
∆hi +3 / 2 otherwise.
∆h ( k )
i +1/ 2
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where ∆x is the spatial step size. Finally, applying the source term operator to
U (2) gives the solution at the new time level.
3H
η (x , 0) = H sech 2 3 (
x − X ) (14)
4h0
The initial flow velocity is given by:
u (x , 0) = −η (x , 0) g h0 (15)
The minus sign in Eq. (15) implies that the wave moves toward the initial position of
the shoreline.
Numerical tests
a) Breaking solitary wave
The motion of non-linear breaking solitary wave with initial wave height H/h0=0.3 on
1:19.85 sloping beach was simulated by the scheme. The initial wave was located at
X=14h0 and the computational domain extending from x=−20h0 to x=25h0 was
discretized by employing 500 cells. These model inputs are analogous to those used
by Que and Xu (2005) except that 1000 cells were utilized in their gas-kinetic
Bhatnagar-Gross-Krook finite volume model. Furthermore, in our computation, a
Manning coefficient nManning=0.01m−1/3s defines the surface roughness of the material
used in the experiments of Synolakis (1986). In Fig. 1, the numerical results are
shown and checked against the experimental data. As can be seen in snapshots (b, c),
the wave forms a vertical front face and changes into a bore-type structure when it
propagates over the sloping surface. The laboratory wave commences to break at
some point in the above-mentioned snapshots. The breaking process terminates as
the bore collapses near the initial position of the shoreline (Fig. 1–d). Thereafter, the
attenuated wave generates a tongue propagating up the sloping beach (Fig. 1–e, f, g).
After the fluid reaches its maximum level, the run-down process is initiated in which
a thin layer of fluid accelerates down the beach. This supercritical flow creates a
hydraulic jump when impacting the water of wave tail indicating the breaking of this
solitary wave during run-down motion (Fig. 1–j, k, l). Toro (2001) used the Rankine-
Hougonit jump condition for NLSW equations and proved that a shock wave cannot
exist nearby a region of dry bed. In spite of this fact, some of the previous numerical
models failed to form a realistic wave profile at the first instances of motion of a
breaking wave over a dry bed (e.g., Titov and Synolakis, 1995; Zelt, 1991).
Therefore, a comparison is made in Fig. 2 to illustrate that the proposed model
provides a more accurate representation for this phenomenon.
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0.3
Titov and Synolakis(1995)
Zelt (1991)
0.2 Synolakis (1986)
Present Model
*
0.1
−0.1
−5 0 5 10 15 20
x*
Fig. 2. Bore collapsing for a solitary wave with H/h0=0.3 on 1:19.85 sloping
beach: Comparison with experimental data and other numerical models.
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1 0
10 10
0
10
R/h0 R/h0 -1
10
-1
10
(a) (b)
-2 -2
10 -3 -2 -1 0
10 -3 -2 -1 0
10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
fgfgfg H/h
0
H/h
0
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Concluding remarks
A shock-capturing numerical scheme was presented for one-dimensional non-linear
shallow water equations. The developed model was applied to investigate the
propagation and run-up of solitary waves. The wave breaking was approximated in
the frameworks of bore propagation and hydraulic jump during the run-up and run-
down processes, respectively. Comparison with other numerical models showed that
the scheme provides a more accurate prediction of wave motion at the instant of bore
collapsing. Despite the depth-averaged limitation of the governing equations, the
predicted results agreed well with two existing run-up laws. This suggests the
potential capabilities of the model in flood prediction, hazards mitigation and
inundation modeling.
References
Hibbert, S., Peregrine, D. H. (1979). “Surf and run-up on a beach: a uniform bore.” J.
Fluid Mechanics, 95, 323–345.
Hu, K., Mingham, C. G., Causon, D. M. (2000). “Numerical simulation of wave
overtopping of coastal structures using the non-linear shallow water
equations” Coastal Engineering, 41, 433–465.
Hughes, S. A. (2004). “Estimation of wave run-up on smooth, impermeable slopes
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Kowalik, Z. (2001). “Basic relations between tsunami calculation and their physics.”
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Li, Y., Raichlen, F. (2001). “Solitary wave run-up on plane slopes.” Journal of
Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 127, 33–44.
Mahdavi, A., Talebbeydokhti, N. (2009). “Modeling of non-breaking and breaking
solitary wave run-up using FORCE-MUSCL scheme.” Accepted by Journal
of Hydraulic Research.
Que, Y.-T., Xu, K. (2005). “The numerical study of roll-waves in inclined open
channels and solitary wave run-up.” International Journal for Numerical
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of Technology, Pasadena, CA.
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Toro, E. F. (2001). Shock-capturing methods for free-surface shallow flows. Wiley,
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