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Giving
Will this be a time of personal
stress or a time of peace? A season
for gratitude, sustainable choices
and connection to others is possible
with a simpler interpretation of the
thanks
holidays. Going Green celebrates
the start of the season by sharing
our own stories with you.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Slow cooker makes it easy International. If I fall short there are some nice
When I decided to start making my turkey pigs and water buffaloes available. My goal is to
dinners in a Crock Pot, I was thinking about practice all of the green habits we’ve always
convenience rather than going green. I found done but add an element of Christmas spirit in a
that I can make about six pounds of boneless sustainable way that helps those less fortunate
turkey breast mixed with herbs in a slow than we are. Enjoy the holidays.
cooker set either on low for six hours or high Scott Sines
for four hours, which rival any roasted whole
bird in flavor if not in presentation. Even the This season, the word is thrift
traditional side items of Thanksgiving dinner
like cornbread dressing, sweet potato Thanksgiving leftovers just might be
casserole and green bean casserole can be considered the ultimate in recycling. Yes, I’m
made in a Crock Pot, with minor alterations to counting the turkey hash, white bean chili, ham
the recipes. But it turns out that depending on and cheese omelettes and other tasty dishes
the size and type of your electric oven, a Crock that will follow “Turkey Day” as one of the ways
Pot may actually use less electricity as well. I plan to green up my holidays by recycling.
Some Crock Pots use 50 to 75 percent less And joining them on our table will be a recycled
electricity, though they take longer to cook centerpiece. For Halloween, we bought a locally
than standard ovens. But for the turkey, which grown $3.99 pumpkin, but decided not to
takes just as long in a standard oven, there are carve it as a jack-o-lantern. Instead we left it
some easy watts to save and the Crock Pot whole, and set it out on our front porch with
makes a moister, more flavorful bird. Just add some potted mums. Once Halloween was over,
liberal doses of black pepper, garlic, sage, we decorated it with a painted metal and wood
thyme, Worcestershire sauce and a couple “turkey set” and our decoration now holds
pats of butter, and leave it alone to cook. center stage on our dining table.
Jon Devin Our recycling efforts are not going to be
limited to our dining room. No, with the long
Thanksgiving weekend, we’re planning to pull
Go ahead, have a cow everything out of the storage shed and make a
My family is trying to have a cow over the final decision on what stays and what goes —
holidays. and what goes will be recycled.
Of course we’ll recycle everything we can. We’re also going to be tackling some
The boys are coming home, so there will be projects around the house. Two cherished
more than the usual number of toilet paper rolls, items that are now “out of order” will not be
aluminum cans, etc. We’ll recycle the ribbons replaced, but rather rebuilt. Our 1920s porch
and bows and holiday cards. Wrapping paper is swing finally started showing its age this
a bigger challenge because we men have never summer. And an old-fashioned glider with
seen a wrapping problem that couldn’t be wooden slats also gave way. Instead of locating
solved with a little more scotch tape. Yes, we’ll replacements, we’re restoring both pieces to
save the turkey carcass and ham bones for their former glory.
stock (already have one of each in the freezer). It feels right to be thrifty, stretching our food
But this year I want to have a cow. Here’s the for several meals. It feels good to be finding
plan: I’m going to ask every member of our new homes for what we can’t keep. It feels
family and extended family, and a few friends, to great to be saving a little green by repairing
donate $10 in small, unmarked bills to the cause.
rather than replacing our outdoor furniture.
My wife has six sisters and nearly 30 nieces and
But mostly, it feels “green” not to be wasteful
nephews. My side of the family is smaller but it
and add to the haul-away trash at the curb.
would be a mistake to underestimate us. My goal
is to raise enough to buy a cow from Heifer Emily Adams Keplinger
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 7
A LOCAL THANKSGIVING
Apple Mallo-Yam-Yams
I was never a fan of the
candied yams my family always
served for holidays. I tried these
at a boyfriend’s family holiday
— to be polite. His mother
kindly shared the recipe and I
have served them at every
holiday since. Everything except
the final baking can be done the
day before. Then, just pop it
into the oven after the turkey Fresh Cranberry Nut Bread
comes out. My mom always made this the day before
1
/4 cup butter, unsalted Thanksgiving, when she made the cranberry
1
/2 cup pecans, chopped
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
sauce. It became a tradition to have it
1 tsp. salt Thanksgiving morning as a prelude to the
1 tbsp. cinnamon big meal. While the cranberries are not
6 medium sweet potatoes, cooked, local, it’s a good use for local pecans, eggs,
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices butter and milk.
2 large apples, peeled and sliced (I like
tart apples, such as Granny Smiths, but 2 cups all-purpose flour
our local Arkansas Blacks work fine too) 3 tsp. baking powder
1
1
/2 cup mini marshmallows (optional) /2 tsp. salt
1 cup granulated sugar
In a small bowl, crumble 1 cup fresh cranberries, halved or chopped (or pulsed
butter, pecans, brown sugar, in a food processor)
salt and cinnamon. In a 11/2 1 cup pecans, chopped
quart casserole dish or 9x13 1 large egg, beaten
3
/4 cup whole milk
baking pan, place half of the 1
/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
sweet potato slices. Top with 1 tsp. vanilla extract
half of the apple slices. Sprinkle Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly grease an 8
with half of the sugar mixture. 1
/2 x 4 1/2 x 2 1/2 loaf pan. Line bottom with
Continue with a second layer parchment paper and grease paper. Set aside.
of sweet potatoes and apples. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking
Top with remaining sugar powder, salt and sugar. Stir in cranberries
mixture. and pecans.
Bake at 375° for 25 minutes, In a small bowl, combine egg, milk, melted
uncovered. Top with butter and vanilla. Add liquid mixture to dry
marshmallows and bake an ingredients and stir until just moistened.
additional 5 to 10 minutes, until Pour batter into prepared loaf pan. Bake
marshmallows are golden at 350° for 55 minutes. Turn out onto wire
brown. rack; remove paper and turn right-side up.
—Recipe courtesy of Karen Evans Cool before cutting.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 9
VEGAN THANKSGIVING
Vegan Almond Butternut lemon juice and about half the ground
Squash Au Gratin almonds. Turn off heat.
1-2 1/2 pound butternut squash Slice squash in half vertically. Peel and
1
/3 cup margarine or butter substitute (or butter, if seed the squash. Slice into 1/4-inch slices.
you don’t want to go vegan)
1
Place slices in a pot and cover with
/4 cup flour water. Bring water to boil and let cook
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
1
/4 tsp. paprika for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.
1
/4 tsp. turmeric Place squash in a 10-inch diameter
1
1
/4 tsp. mustard powder casserole dish, gratin dish or baking pan.
/2 cup nutritional yeast Pour almond milk over the slices and stir
1
/2 cup ground almonds or almond meal
2 tsp. lemon juice a bit to make sure the slices are all
1
/2 cup almond or other nondairy milk substitutes saturated. Pour your sauce on top and
stir into the top layer of squash a bit.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle remaining almonds on top. Bake
Grind almonds in food processor. in oven for 30 minutes or until bubbly
Mix paprika, turmeric and mustard and slightly browned. Serves about 4.
powder into vegetable broth.
Melt margarine or butter over medium Pumpkin Ravioli
heat. Whisk in flour slowly until smooth Filling:
and bubbly. Slowly add broth and spice 1 cup roasted pumpkin
mixture, whisking all the while. Whisk in 2 tbsp. margarine or butter substitute or butter
nutritional yeast and keep whisking until 1
1
/4 tsp. nutmeg
mixture is thick and bubbly, about 2 /4 tsp. cinnamon
1
/4 tsp. cumin
minutes, maybe more. Turn up the heat if dash of white or black pepper
it’s not getting thick and bubbly. Stir in 1
/2 tsp. salt
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 11
1
/4 cup ground cashews (or nuts of your choice) squares; I like 2.5-inches.
Pasta: Put about 1 tablespoon of your
1 1/2 cups semolina flour
1
/2 cup all purpose flour pumpkin filling in the middle of a square,
1
/2 tsp. salt place another square on top, and pinch
2 tsp. dried basil
1
around the edges to seal. (This is a great
/2 cup water step on which to enlist the help of family
1 tsp. olive oil
and friends — it will go much quicker
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Slice your with more hands on the job.) Place ravioli
pumpkin in half horizontally and scrape out on parchment paper to prevent sticking.
all the seeds and surrounding stringiness. Gently drop ravioli into a large pot of
Place both pumpkin halves cut side boiling water.
down on a baking sheet and roast for Cook for 15 minutes and carefully drain.
about an hour or until the skin is very Serve with sauce of your choice. I
soft and brown in spots and the flesh is braised some minced garlic, onion and
soft and easily separates. fresh sage in a few tablespoons of olive oil
Scrape flesh away from skins and let and Earth Balance butter substitute.
drain in colander. Serves 4-6
Melt margarine over medium heat in a
large saucepan. Garlicky Kale
Add nutmeg, cinnamon, cumin, One bunch kale, of the type of your choice
pepper, salt and ground cashews. 2 tbsp. olive oil
Stir in pumpkin and cook, stirring and 4 cloves of garlic sliced very thin
mashing, until your mixture is fragrant Wash kale. Tear leaves in pieces from
and the consistency of stringy, creamy thick stem.Heat oil in a large pot on
mashed potatoes. medium heat and add garlic.
Turn off heat and set aside. Saute garlic until fragrant and soft,
Sift together flour, salt and basil. Add about 2 minutes.
oil and water and knead until a stiff Add kale and cook and toss using
dough forms. tongs until kale is bright green and
If you’re going to be cooking your wilted, about 3 minutes.
ravioli the same day that you’re making
them, you’ll probably want to put a large Roasted Turnips
pot of water up right about now so it’ll Turnips, Olive oil, Salt and pepper
be ready to go when you’re done with
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
assembly. Add a dash of salt and a
Peel and chop turnips into chunks about
dollop of olive oil to the water. 3
/4-inch across. Drizzle with olive oil, salt
Turn out dough on a lightly floured
and pepper.
surface and roll it as thin as you can with
Place in a baking dish or sheet and
a rolling pin if you’re like me and don’t
roast for about 40 minutes, flipping
have a pasta maker (thought if you have
halfway through, until turnips are tender,
a pasta maker, by all means use it). You
browned, even a little caramelized.
may want to work with a small portion of
Serves 6-8 people as a side dish.
the dough at a time.
Cut your dough into roughly matching Recipes courtesy Nicole Solomon
12 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
Grace to get
produce from
dedicated
urban garden
By Jennifer Biggs
The Commercial Appeal file photos
biggs@commercialappeal.com
Grace Restaurant chef/owner Ben
There are many changes going on at Vaughn: “Of course, we’ll get as much
Grace Restaurant in Cooper-Young, locally as we possibly can, but you
some very exciting and some more can’t always do that. Seasons change.”
practical.
To the exciting first, of course: percentage of ingredients that are sourced
Chef/owner Ben Vaughn has found a 11/2- from small farms. He started doing this
acre plot in Midtown that is going to be last month and says he’s running between
used to grow most of the produce for the 80 percent and 85 percent.
restaurant. He asks that diners understand that
“We’re hiring Lori Green of Downing flexibility is the key to a successful farm-
Hollow Farm to be our farm manager,” he to-table experience.
said. “I didn’t want to get this land, then “I might have gotten great beef, but the
just throw money at the wind and hope it farmer could only sell me 8 pounds of it,”
would work. That’s why we’ve got her.” he explained. “If you come in at 9:30 for
The urban garden won’t be producing dinner and we’re out of beef, it’s because
until the spring, but Vaughn is moving that’s all we could get, not because we’re a
toward a 100-percent farm-to-table poorly executed restaurant.”
operation at Grace. Specials at Grace include a four-course
What that means is that everything he dinner on Thursdays for $30, plus $15 for
buys will eventually come from small, wine pairing. The restaurant has also
family-run farms. He’ll buy as much of it as opened for lunch on Friday, where $15
he can locally, but he admits that can’t gets you three courses and live
always be done. entertainment.
“Some of our local farms and vendors Call Grace at 274-85113 for more
have been great about helping me find information.
other places,” he said. Contact Jennifer Biggs at 529-5223. Her
At the top of the menu, he lists the blog is whiningdining.com.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 13
How long have you been interested out with an umbrella and watch the water
in gardening? Forty-five years. rush down just like a small river.”
Average amount of time involved What type of gardening project would
with gardening: On the average, Smith you like to try in the future? “I have run
says he spends about eight hours a week out of space for new projects. All I can do is
gardening. improve on what I already have.”
How’d you get your green thumb?
“From my parents, who even with a small What advice would you give to
city lot, always had at least a few tomato someone interested in gardening? “If
plants.” planting a tree, shrub or flower and
Current or most recent gardening watching it develop into something
project: “I just completed an Arkansas appealing to the eye doesn’t turn you on,
field stone extension to a water drain-off you’re in the wrong business. I spend at
area just in case it ever rains.” least an hour a week in a meditation area
Favorite gardening project: “When I in the woods beside my house looking
bought my present house there was an around and absorbing nature’s wonders.
eroding area on the side from the rush of It also lowers your blood pressure.”
water coming off a neighbor’s yard. I built
an Arkansas field stone creek-like drainage If you are a gardener from Collierville or
Germantown and would like to be featured as
area about 30 feet by 5 feet long to carry a Greater Memphis Gardener, call Matt Woo
runoff water down the creek to the woods. at 529-6453 or e-mail
Sometimes when we have heavy rains I go woo@commercialappeal.com.
Old things
‘new’ again
Center City Commission
employees Lorie Chapman
(left) and Dawn Vinson carry
items to be recycled by 5R
Processors Ltd. s part of
America Recycles Day. All
types of electronic
equipment brought to the
Downtown e-Recycle Drive
will be recycled or
Alan Spearman/The Commercial Appeal refurbished forfuture use.
16 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
YARD
By Lindsay Melvin
lindsay.melvin@commercialappeal.com
BIRDS
police cars, chickens peck through the straw-
covered soil of a backyard enclosure.
Lured by the promise of year-round fresh eggs,
the Knipple family started raising chickens
behind their Midtown home nearly two years ago.
“We live in Midtown, it’s in the zoning, we
Midtowners’ quest for have to be hippies, “ said Paul Knipple.
farm-fresh eggs puts The urge to tend poultry with his wife, Angela,
however, stems more from their passion for
plan for raising exceptional food than any earthy inclinations.
poultry in motion Both are fervent recipe collectors and
contributing writers for Edible Memphis, a
18 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
magazine that explores local cuisine. Typically, the Knipples’ chickens lay
Before the Memphis natives recently four to five eggs each day, leaving them
headed to their day jobs as information with more than they can eat.
technology specialists for FedEx, Angela At one point they had eight dozen
sprinkled feed in the spacious screened cartons in the fridge.
hut of their chicken coop, while extolling “That was just scary,” said Angela, who
the incomparable flavor of fresh eggs. bakes as much as she can and gives the
“There’s a huge difference,” she said. rest away to friends and family.
“Even the yolks are more orange.” But since temperatures have dropped,
Locally hatched eggs from the the girls have been on strike.
Memphis Farmers Market Downtown “We just bought eggs for the first time
first made Angela nostalgic for the in two years,” said Paul, cringing at the
flavors of her childhood, back when her thought of paying $3 for a dozen eggs.
grandparents raised chickens in a slightly Memphis has an ordinance against
less urban area outside Whitehaven. keeping livestock and poultry outside
But the farmers market had a limited agricultural zones.
egg supply and was open only half the year. But code enforcement for fowl has
On a mission to have their own stash been a gray area within city limits.
of brown-and-white-shelled gems and to “They’re not allowed in a residential
give their city-raised 15-year-old son, zone,” said Rose Hill with Memphis and
Patric, a unique experience, they Shelby County Code Enforcement, who
scoured the Internet for sites on raising added chicken matters are referred to the
backyard chickens. health department.
Through an online distributor, their The Memphis and Shelby County
flock of seven arrived via express mail. Health Department receives at most three
“The mailman complaints about
still looks at us chickens a year, and
funny, “ Paul said. “It makes you think more the city steps in
Their feathered about where your chickens only when there are
lineup now includes unsanitary
six lady birds and come from. ... It’s hard to conditions that are
one rooster. attracting flies or
There’s no way
think about them living in rodents, said vector
to know how many little cages, 1-foot-by-1-foot, control program
people in the Bluff manager L.C.
City are raising their whole life.” Garth.
backyard chickens, Blueberry
but Hollywood Pet ANGELA KNIPPLE Muffin, Cupcake,
on raising backyard chickens
Star on Broad has a Honey, Cheesecake
constant stream of and the rest of the
customers buying chicken feed. Knipple flock have yet to have a run-in
“It’s a popular thing now with eggs in with the law.
the grocery store costing a fortune, “ And the sweetly named bunch do
said store manager Sam Irwin. more than provide ingredients for
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 19
The EPA’s steps are much more economy in the slightest way.”
modest than the big stick of regulation Joe Mendelson, the director of global
that both opponents and supporters of warming policy at the National Wildlife
climate legislation used to talk about. Federation, said the EPA’s guidance on
The agency said that much of the the best available technology to control
greenhouse gas reductions under the emissions was a start toward using the
permit system would come through Clean Air Act to address global warming.
energy efficiency. “The EPA is saying, hey, there are a
The new guidelines are part of EPA’s lot of inefficiencies out there that are
early efforts to start reducing the contributing to our climate change
emissions of gases that build up in the problem, and you should start dealing
atmosphere and trap heat. The Supreme with them,” he said.
Court ruled that the agency has the Even if the EPA eventually takes
authority to regulate this form of stronger action to curb climate change,
pollution under the Clean Air Act. it can’t do enough on its own to get the
The guidelines require that regulators amount of reductions that will be
make sure that new plants — or those necessary by 2050, he said. “It really is
that are upgraded so that they can looking at all our activities — in ways
expand production — use available inside EPA’s jurisdiction or outside it —
technology to reduce carbon pollution. that get us, frankly, to rebuilding our
Businesses can choose the most feasible economy in a way that gets us the global
and cost-effective approach. warming reductions we need as a matter
Gina McCarthy, the assistant of survival between now and 2050.”
administrator for EPA’s Office of Air and Jeff Holmstead, an attorney who
Radiation, said the technology represents power companies and who
requirements for new and expanded was the EPA air administrator during
facilities are part of a “common-sense, the Bush administration, said the new
step-by-step and transparent way” to guidelines would amount to a
reduce greenhouse gas emissions. moratorium on plant construction.
She also said the agency has no “As a practical matter, no one is going
estimate of how much of a reduction the to be able to get through EPA’s new
emissions control technologies on new permitting process for a long time,” he
plants would achieve. said in a statement through a
“This is not about capping or overall spokesman.
reductions across the country,” she said. EPA’s McCarthy, however, said there
Frank O’Donnell, the president of won’t be a moratorium. Regulators and
Clean Air Watch, a nonpartisan industry had months to prepare, she
watchdog group, called the EPA said. The EPA held meetings with
announcement “a very modest first step.” industry groups to hear their views
“I hope this will quiet down the about the permit requirements. Now
demagoguery,” he said. “A lot of people regulators at the state and local level are
are saying the EPA is going to ruin the ready to issue permits, and EPA expects
economy and they’re overreaching. the permitting will go smoothly,
There’s nothing here that could hurt the McCarthy said.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 21
For those who want to have a look at the new cups, they’re only on the
multipacks. If it doesn’t have a recycling code on the bottom, it’s the new PLA.
EARTHTALK
Brand X Pictures
Many U.S. food businesses will not donate excess food to those in need due to
liability concerns. However, it is an unfounded fear because laws in all 50 states
protect food donors from civil and criminal liability for good faith donations.
Dear EarthTalk: I work at a fast food Many restaurants, fast food or oth-
place and I am appalled by the amount erwise, are hesitant to donate unused
of unpurchased food we throw away. food due to concerns about liability if
The boss says we can’t give it away for people get sick after eating it — es-
legal reasons. Where can I turn for help pecially because once any such food is
on this, so the food could instead go to out of the restaurant’s hands, who
people in need? knows how long it might be before it is
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 27
served again? But whether these cies that feed hungry people, usually
restaurants know it or not, they can- later that same day. Mama’s Health, a
not be held liable for food donated to leading health education website,
organizations, and sometimes all it maintains an extensive free database
might take to change company policy of food banks and food rescue pro-
would be a little advocacy from con- grams state-by-state.
cerned employees. Unused or even partially eaten food
A 1995 survey found that over 80 waste can also be utilized even if it’s
percent of food businesses in the U.S. not edible by human standards. The
did not donate excess food due to li- U.S. Department of Agriculture ap-
ability concerns. In response, Congress proves of food businesses giving or
passed the Bill Emerson Good Samar- selling food waste to local farmers for
itan Act, which releases restaurants use in composting or as animal feed. If
and other food organizations from li- such food contains or has come into
ability associated with the donation of contact with meat, it should be boiled
food waste to nonprofit organizations for 30 minutes to reduce the risk of
assisting individuals in need. The act bacterial infections in the animals that
protects donors in all 50 states from eat it. Many states have complemen-
civil and criminal liability for good- tary laws on the books regulating the
faith donations of “apparently whole- donation of food waste at the local
some food” — defined as meeting “all level.
quality and labeling standards imposed Many cities and town are now ex-
by Federal, State and local laws and panding curbside pickup programs to
regulations even though the food may include kitchen scraps and yard waste
not be readily marketable due to ap- and then diverting the food waste into
pearance, age, freshness, grade, size, profitable compost. Still, some 6.7 per-
surplus or other condition.” cent of the solid waste going into
While homeless shelters, elder care landfills consists of food discards, re-
organizations and boys and girls clubs ports the North Carolina Division of
are frequent beneficiaries of food do- Pollution Prevention and Environmen-
nations, the most common recipients tal Assistance. Diverting food waste to
are food banks and food rescue pro- feed hungry people or for animal feed
grams. Food banks, according to Cal- or compost is a winning scenario for
ifornia’s CalRecycle website, “collect all concerned parties as it not only
food from a variety of sources, save provides relief to overburdened land-
the food in a warehouse, then dis- fills but also helps meet social welfare,
tribute it to hungry families and in- agricultural and environmental needs.
dividuals through local human service Also, those restaurants, grocery stores
agencies.” They usually collect less- and other businesses that donate food
perishable items like canned goods, will likely reap the additional reward
which can be stored and used any of saving money on their actual waste
time. In contrast, food rescue pro- removal bill as their trash bins and
grams typically trade in perishable and Dumpsters won’t be filling up quite so
prepared foods, distributing it to agen- fast.
28 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
A long history
Fresh and local have extensive, sustainable role in the kitchen
By Lee Svitak Dean
Minneapolis Star Tribune
wanted the space to grow her own “Do you think other people eat as
fruits, vegetables and herbs, said Mar- well as we do?” O’Keeffe asked Wood on
garet Wood, one of the last compan- more than one occasion.
ion/cooks to work with O’Keeffe.
Wood was 24 and O’Keeffe 90 when How far north can you grow?
she became the elder’s caregiver. For If you think the garden days are num-
five years, Wood cooked two meals a bered in northern parts of the lower 48,
day for O’Keeffe, who occasionally en- think of those in Alaska.
tertained a succession of friends and Ditto for restaurant days. For chefs
followers. aiming for tourists, it’s business as usu-
O’Keeffe was a follower of Adele al only in June, July and August.
Davis and Lelord Kordel, health food That’s the challenge faced by Har-
proponents in the 1950s (she lived to be rison McHenry, chef/owner of the Fresh
98, not so incidentally). O’Keeffe pre- Catch Cafe in Homer, Alaska, who has
ferred organic grains, ground her own made “fresh,” “local” and “sustainable”
flour, bought eggs and honey from her his guidelines since he opened the
neighbors. There was homemade yogurt restaurant five years ago.
from local goat’s milk and granola for
snacks.
“I remember how she (O’Keeffe)
guided me through the large Abiquiu
garden, telling me where all the veg-
etables, fruits and herbs could be found.
She spoke with pride about her organic
produce: the two-pound tomato that
was grown the previous summer, the
tree that bore the best applesauce ap-
ples, and the hardy raspberries that sur-
vived one spring when all the other
fruit froze,” wrote Wood in “A Painter’s
Kitchen, Recipes From the Kitchen of
Georgia O’Keeffe,” first published in
1997 and recently reissued.
The aesthetics of art also wove their
way into O’Keeffe’s meals, where she
wanted the food and presentation to be
simple and fresh. She was particular:
Lettuce was picked leaf by leaf to create
what we would now call “mesclun,” or a
mix of lettuce. Her table was kept sim-
ple, as was the food: plain white porce- O’Keeffe wanted food and presentation
lain china, colorful straw mats, soft to be simple and fresh: Steamed green
white napkins, with meals that were beans and fresh cucumbers sprinkled
equally unfussy. with salt and pepper.
30 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
But they didn’t leave behind the min- rants that become temples, and where
istry of feeding people. food becomes God,” said Paul, a former
The trio finished their five-year-com- seminary student.
mitment to Holden on Sept. 1, during “Here at Holden, we give food that’s
which they faced challenges that would down to Earth.”
fluster even a Top Chef.
There are no roads to Holden. It
takes a two-hour ferry along Lake
Chelan far into the Cascades to get
there, followed by a 30-minute drive on
harrowing switchbacks to reach the re-
treat. Dry foods come in on a barge.
“We could survive two months if we had
to,” said Paul. Fresh food reaches them
by ferry.
They have plenty of local purveyors,
though logistics can become cumber-
some. “It’s fun to buy local,” said Paul,
“but we couldn’t survive on it.”
His staff has more turnover than a
fast-food joint — and the dish crew is
democratic (everyone on staff rotates
through the dish pit, as it is called).
The cooks are volunteers, many of
them college students in their early 20s,
who tend to stick around for three
weeks (for a short-term post) to one
year (long-term). Paul teaches them
cooking techniques along the way. Then
they’re gone, and he teaches the next Paul and Carol Hinderlie
batch of cooks.
“At Harbor View, after one year a
(above) left behind a
staffer might have moved up to prep 26-year-history with a
work,” Paul said with a shrug.
Yet they still cook from scratch: nationally- acclaimed
homemade bread, soup, salads, fish restaurant to take on the
(with cod and sockeye salmon from
Alaska), a philosophy they call “lavish ministry of ‘lavish simplicity’
simplicity.” at Holden Village in the
In his latter years at Harbor View, the
food world was quickly changing its Cascade Mountains.
focus from the meal itself to the celebri- “Here at Holden, we give food
ty status of the chef.
“I’m always surprised about restau- that’s down to Earth.”