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2 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.

com

What’s in this issue ...


12 Farm-to-table
Grace Restaurant
chef/owner Ben
Vaughn: “Of course,
we’ll get as much locally
as we possibly can.”

Go green for the


13 right reasons
4 Reinterpreting
traditions State flower is a
Going Green staffers share their
14 fave for Van Smith
personal stories on how to
de-stress, simplify and enjoy School, IP partner
the holiday season 16 for recycling
Take advantage of habits for a
locally sourced Thanksgiving. PAGE 7
Fresh, local have
Vegan recipes that appeal to the
carnivores in your family. PAGE 9
28 history in kitchen

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!


Going Green is a special online publication of
The Commercial Appeal. We welcome your comments and suggestions. Follow
Going Green on Twitter at www.twitter.com/GoGreenMemphis.
Editor: Kim Coleman, 529-5243, goinggreen@commercialappeal.com
Community Editor: Emily Adams Keplinger, keplinger@commercialappeal.com

On the cover: Cover by Kim Coleman/Going Green


The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 3

The Green Page


Events
Overton Park hike: On Nov. 28, the
public is invited to meet at the end of Old
Forest Lane, next to the Rainbow Lake
parking lot, for a free guided 1.5-mile walk
through the Old Forest at Overton Park.
Kids are welcome. For more information,
call 278-2396.
First Float: The next “First Float” canoe
will take place on Dec. 4. Members of the
Wolf River Conservancy will lead a 3-mile
paddle/hike trip from the Germantown
bridge access to the Walnut Grove bridge.
Nonmember participants will be asked to
join WRC. The first Saturday trips are free,
offered as a WRC membership benefit. For
trip details or to register for this trip,
contact WRC Office Manager, Kimberly
Thomas at 452-6500 or officemanager@
wolfriver.org. Reservation deadline is Dec. 2.

C. Richard Cotton/Special to Going Green


Programs
Green greetings: Celebrate the holiday
Jennifer Chandler keeps a couple season with friends and loved ones this
of backyard raised beds for year and give back to the earth with the
growing her salad fixings. help of the nonprofit Arbor Day
Foundation. Send holiday greetings and
Update plant a tree — all at the same time — by
using the Foundation’s Give-A-Tree Cards.
Another ‘Simply’ book: Jennifer By sending Give-A-Tree Cards, you help
Chandler (right), author of “Simply Salads” replant forests that have been devastated
and “Simply Suppers,” has just inked a by wildfires, insects and disease. To
deal for her third book. Look for “Simply purchase holiday gifts that give back to the
Grilling,” also being published by Thomas earth, go to arborday.org.
Nelson, in spring 2012. Sierra Club on Cable: Sierra Club
New Midtown cafe: The Midtown Chickasaw Group’s Cable TV Show titled
Farmers Market, 1632 Union, has added “Nature of Conservation” is shown on on
lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday WYPL-TV 18 (Comcast) on varying days
through Saturday. All items, which include and times. For the latest schedule, see
soups and specialty sandwiches (such as a memphislibrary.org/tlc18/schedule/ or the
turkey breast with arugula and pepper Comcast on-screen guide. The topic
jelly, as well as a sloppy roast beef po’ boy, changes every month. Got an idea for a
a ribeye with brie and several others), are future program? Contact Judith
made from local items. Call 726-1031 for Rutschman at 767-5916 or send an e-mail
more information. to jcrutschman@gmail.com.
4 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 5

Giving
Will this be a time of personal
stress or a time of peace? A season
for gratitude, sustainable choices
and connection to others is possible
with a simpler interpretation of the

thanks
holidays. Going Green celebrates
the start of the season by sharing
our own stories with you.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Petersen Thanksgiving 101 be moving.


We did not intentionally make our This year, we’ll have a less traditional
Thanksgiving meal sustainable. I love the Thanksgiving.
holiday. I thought my husband hated it. It If we have enough done by Turkey Day, we
turns out he just doesn’t like turkey. I enjoy may volunteer at a soup kitchen.
cooking a big meal; the “what” is If not, we may accept the kind invitation
unimportant. So our Thanksgiving plans of neighbors, who want to say goodbye.
focus on what we both like the most — the And even though generally I’d rather take
side dishes. No turkey here. You’d be a beating than move, I find myself strangely
amazed at how that simplifies the meal. eager, because not only will I be doubling my
Our table will include local sweet potatoes living space, but I will have a yard again.
with pecans and apples, a new cornbread While there are advantages to apartment
stuffing with greens recipe, cranberries living — having a pool and fitness facility
(shipped from the Northeast, but oh-so- within walking distance — what I find I miss
good), the ubiquitous green bean casserole, most is having a lawn. Odd, because I’ve
maybe a chestnut soup, and pie. I like apple. never been much of a gardener, but I plan to
He likes pumpkin. We compromise by go over to my new place next week and plant
making both. some tulip bulbs.
Our goal is a casual, open-to-friends, Even more exciting is that I’ll be able to
unstressful day where we have time to enjoy, start my own compost pile and will again
talk, laugh and be thankful. Reducing the have access to curbside recycling, so I can
carbon footprint of the meal by sourcing not only expand my recycling efforts, but will
local is just a bonus. save gas since I don’t have to take
everything to a recycling center.
Melissa Petersen The sustainability of my Thanksgiving this
year will focus not on the feast, but on the
A holiday on the move ways in which we sustain one another and
Black Friday. The day many people will on all I have for which to give thanks,
rise before dawn to hit the sales and begin friends, family and the opportunities that lie
their Christmas shopping. ahead to live greener.
As for me, the day after Thanksgiving, I’ll Suzanne Thompson
6 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

Slow cooker makes it easy International. If I fall short there are some nice
When I decided to start making my turkey pigs and water buffaloes available. My goal is to
dinners in a Crock Pot, I was thinking about practice all of the green habits we’ve always
convenience rather than going green. I found done but add an element of Christmas spirit in a
that I can make about six pounds of boneless sustainable way that helps those less fortunate
turkey breast mixed with herbs in a slow than we are. Enjoy the holidays.
cooker set either on low for six hours or high Scott Sines
for four hours, which rival any roasted whole
bird in flavor if not in presentation. Even the This season, the word is thrift
traditional side items of Thanksgiving dinner
like cornbread dressing, sweet potato Thanksgiving leftovers just might be
casserole and green bean casserole can be considered the ultimate in recycling. Yes, I’m
made in a Crock Pot, with minor alterations to counting the turkey hash, white bean chili, ham
the recipes. But it turns out that depending on and cheese omelettes and other tasty dishes
the size and type of your electric oven, a Crock that will follow “Turkey Day” as one of the ways
Pot may actually use less electricity as well. I plan to green up my holidays by recycling.
Some Crock Pots use 50 to 75 percent less And joining them on our table will be a recycled
electricity, though they take longer to cook centerpiece. For Halloween, we bought a locally
than standard ovens. But for the turkey, which grown $3.99 pumpkin, but decided not to
takes just as long in a standard oven, there are carve it as a jack-o-lantern. Instead we left it
some easy watts to save and the Crock Pot whole, and set it out on our front porch with
makes a moister, more flavorful bird. Just add some potted mums. Once Halloween was over,
liberal doses of black pepper, garlic, sage, we decorated it with a painted metal and wood
thyme, Worcestershire sauce and a couple “turkey set” and our decoration now holds
pats of butter, and leave it alone to cook. center stage on our dining table.
Jon Devin Our recycling efforts are not going to be
limited to our dining room. No, with the long
Thanksgiving weekend, we’re planning to pull
Go ahead, have a cow everything out of the storage shed and make a
My family is trying to have a cow over the final decision on what stays and what goes —
holidays. and what goes will be recycled.
Of course we’ll recycle everything we can. We’re also going to be tackling some
The boys are coming home, so there will be projects around the house. Two cherished
more than the usual number of toilet paper rolls, items that are now “out of order” will not be
aluminum cans, etc. We’ll recycle the ribbons replaced, but rather rebuilt. Our 1920s porch
and bows and holiday cards. Wrapping paper is swing finally started showing its age this
a bigger challenge because we men have never summer. And an old-fashioned glider with
seen a wrapping problem that couldn’t be wooden slats also gave way. Instead of locating
solved with a little more scotch tape. Yes, we’ll replacements, we’re restoring both pieces to
save the turkey carcass and ham bones for their former glory.
stock (already have one of each in the freezer). It feels right to be thrifty, stretching our food
But this year I want to have a cow. Here’s the for several meals. It feels good to be finding
plan: I’m going to ask every member of our new homes for what we can’t keep. It feels
family and extended family, and a few friends, to great to be saving a little green by repairing
donate $10 in small, unmarked bills to the cause.
rather than replacing our outdoor furniture.
My wife has six sisters and nearly 30 nieces and
But mostly, it feels “green” not to be wasteful
nephews. My side of the family is smaller but it
and add to the haul-away trash at the curb.
would be a mistake to underestimate us. My goal
is to raise enough to buy a cow from Heifer Emily Adams Keplinger
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 7

A LOCAL THANKSGIVING

Keeping it simple to avoid stress


By Melissa Petersen
Special to Going Green

The Thanksgiving meal is a BIG deal


for most people. Even without the fam-
ily politics, the amount of food (and the
pressure) we put on ourselves to make a
perfect holiday meal is slightly crazy.
When we lived close to family, I “did”
Thanksgiving for about 10 years in a Justin Shaw/Special to Going Green
row. I’m a list person, and a planner. Stocking up on sweet potatoes from
I’ve got a timeline that I tape right to a the farmers market is one way to
kitchen cabinet that shows when ev- incorporate local food into your meal.
erything has to happen.
At first it was for me, but I found it was remember to simplify the day. We don’t
helpful when my sisters wanted to help. stress over that which cannot be grown
They checked the timeline and jumped in. locally. Cranberries are a treat we enjoy
Yet every year I forgot the rolls in the just once or twice a year (and they can’t
oven. Sometime, after everyone had be grown locally). So what?
their second helping, I’d remember the It’s not worth it to me to add pressure
rollsweren’t on the table. to the day trying to put all local on the
When we moved to Memphis, we Thanksgiving table. But make a New
made a concerted effort to incorporate Year’s resolution now to start incorpo-
local food into all of our meals. So, mak- rating local into your weekly meals.
ing Thanksgiving locally sourced is really Plan to visit a farmers market. Can,
just about taking advantage of habits. freeze or preserve something. Learn to
We stock up on fall and winter items. cook. Seek out local items at grocery
Pecans are in the freezer. We have plen- stores. When Thanksgiving rolls around
ty of sweet potatoes from one of the last next year, your habits will have changed
farmers markets. Local milk, cream and and a local Thanksgiving will just happen.
eggs are available at several groceries One more tip for a stress-free holiday
and the rogue winter market. — just leave the rolls off the menu. No
We’ve changed over from bread stuff- one will miss them anyway.
ing to cornbread dressing — because
Melissa Petersen is the editor of Edible
we like it better and because we can use Memphis, a magazine that celebrates the
locally ground cornmeal.. abundance of local food, season by season.
However, experience has helped us Contact her at ediblememphis.com.
8 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

Apple Mallo-Yam-Yams
I was never a fan of the
candied yams my family always
served for holidays. I tried these
at a boyfriend’s family holiday
— to be polite. His mother
kindly shared the recipe and I
have served them at every
holiday since. Everything except
the final baking can be done the
day before. Then, just pop it
into the oven after the turkey Fresh Cranberry Nut Bread
comes out. My mom always made this the day before
1
/4 cup butter, unsalted Thanksgiving, when she made the cranberry
1
/2 cup pecans, chopped
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
sauce. It became a tradition to have it
1 tsp. salt Thanksgiving morning as a prelude to the
1 tbsp. cinnamon big meal. While the cranberries are not
6 medium sweet potatoes, cooked, local, it’s a good use for local pecans, eggs,
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices butter and milk.
2 large apples, peeled and sliced (I like
tart apples, such as Granny Smiths, but 2 cups all-purpose flour
our local Arkansas Blacks work fine too) 3 tsp. baking powder
1
1
/2 cup mini marshmallows (optional) /2 tsp. salt
1 cup granulated sugar
In a small bowl, crumble 1 cup fresh cranberries, halved or chopped (or pulsed
butter, pecans, brown sugar, in a food processor)
salt and cinnamon. In a 11/2 1 cup pecans, chopped
quart casserole dish or 9x13 1 large egg, beaten
3
/4 cup whole milk
baking pan, place half of the 1
/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
sweet potato slices. Top with 1 tsp. vanilla extract
half of the apple slices. Sprinkle Preheat oven to 350°. Lightly grease an 8
with half of the sugar mixture. 1
/2 x 4 1/2 x 2 1/2 loaf pan. Line bottom with
Continue with a second layer parchment paper and grease paper. Set aside.
of sweet potatoes and apples. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking
Top with remaining sugar powder, salt and sugar. Stir in cranberries
mixture. and pecans.
Bake at 375° for 25 minutes, In a small bowl, combine egg, milk, melted
uncovered. Top with butter and vanilla. Add liquid mixture to dry
marshmallows and bake an ingredients and stir until just moistened.
additional 5 to 10 minutes, until Pour batter into prepared loaf pan. Bake
marshmallows are golden at 350° for 55 minutes. Turn out onto wire
brown. rack; remove paper and turn right-side up.
—Recipe courtesy of Karen Evans Cool before cutting.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 9

VEGAN THANKSGIVING

Recipes that will


appeal to vegans
and carnivores alike
By Steve Pollak
Mother Nature Network

It’s not easy finding vegan


Thanksgiving recipes.
In fact, traditional Thanksgiving has
many aspects that might make vegans
uncomfortable. Thankfully there are lots
of wonderful ways for vegans and
vegetarians alike to put a special twist
on Thanksgiving and make it a
meaningful holiday — even if they opt to
pass up the turkey.
Here are a few ideas for recipes that
can be used to create a vegan
Thanksgiving meal:
Vegan Almond Butternut Squash Au
Gratin: This wonderful side dish takes
about an hour to prepare, including cook
time. Make sure you use trans-fat free
margarine if you want the healthiest
vegan option. The toughest part of the
recipe is adding ingredients as you whisk First, garlicky kale is bound to be a hit.
everything together over medium heat. It And, it’s super simple to prepare: just
might help to have an extra set of hands. saute the garlic until it’s soft and then
Pumpkin Ravioli: This is a good one, toss in the kale. Let it cook for about
but it’s time-consuming — although not three minutes while tossing and you
as time-consuming as cooking a turkey. should be good to go. For the turnips,
Set aside about two hours to make the slice them and then drizzle them with
filling and the pasta. The ravioli can be olive oil, salt and pepper before cooking
made ahead of time and kept in them for about an hour.
Tupperware in the fridge. Visit the Mother Nature Network at
Garlicky Kale and Roasted Turnips: mnn.com.
10 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

Vegan Almond Butternut lemon juice and about half the ground
Squash Au Gratin almonds. Turn off heat.
1-2 1/2 pound butternut squash Slice squash in half vertically. Peel and
1
/3 cup margarine or butter substitute (or butter, if seed the squash. Slice into 1/4-inch slices.
you don’t want to go vegan)
1
Place slices in a pot and cover with
/4 cup flour water. Bring water to boil and let cook
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
1
/4 tsp. paprika for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.
1
/4 tsp. turmeric Place squash in a 10-inch diameter
1
1
/4 tsp. mustard powder casserole dish, gratin dish or baking pan.
/2 cup nutritional yeast Pour almond milk over the slices and stir
1
/2 cup ground almonds or almond meal
2 tsp. lemon juice a bit to make sure the slices are all
1
/2 cup almond or other nondairy milk substitutes saturated. Pour your sauce on top and
stir into the top layer of squash a bit.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Sprinkle remaining almonds on top. Bake
Grind almonds in food processor. in oven for 30 minutes or until bubbly
Mix paprika, turmeric and mustard and slightly browned. Serves about 4.
powder into vegetable broth.
Melt margarine or butter over medium Pumpkin Ravioli
heat. Whisk in flour slowly until smooth Filling:
and bubbly. Slowly add broth and spice 1 cup roasted pumpkin
mixture, whisking all the while. Whisk in 2 tbsp. margarine or butter substitute or butter
nutritional yeast and keep whisking until 1
1
/4 tsp. nutmeg
mixture is thick and bubbly, about 2 /4 tsp. cinnamon
1
/4 tsp. cumin
minutes, maybe more. Turn up the heat if dash of white or black pepper
it’s not getting thick and bubbly. Stir in 1
/2 tsp. salt
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 11

1
/4 cup ground cashews (or nuts of your choice) squares; I like 2.5-inches.
Pasta: Put about 1 tablespoon of your
1 1/2 cups semolina flour
1
/2 cup all purpose flour pumpkin filling in the middle of a square,
1
/2 tsp. salt place another square on top, and pinch
2 tsp. dried basil
1
around the edges to seal. (This is a great
/2 cup water step on which to enlist the help of family
1 tsp. olive oil
and friends — it will go much quicker
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Slice your with more hands on the job.) Place ravioli
pumpkin in half horizontally and scrape out on parchment paper to prevent sticking.
all the seeds and surrounding stringiness. Gently drop ravioli into a large pot of
Place both pumpkin halves cut side boiling water.
down on a baking sheet and roast for Cook for 15 minutes and carefully drain.
about an hour or until the skin is very Serve with sauce of your choice. I
soft and brown in spots and the flesh is braised some minced garlic, onion and
soft and easily separates. fresh sage in a few tablespoons of olive oil
Scrape flesh away from skins and let and Earth Balance butter substitute.
drain in colander. Serves 4-6
Melt margarine over medium heat in a
large saucepan. Garlicky Kale
Add nutmeg, cinnamon, cumin, One bunch kale, of the type of your choice
pepper, salt and ground cashews. 2 tbsp. olive oil
Stir in pumpkin and cook, stirring and 4 cloves of garlic sliced very thin
mashing, until your mixture is fragrant Wash kale. Tear leaves in pieces from
and the consistency of stringy, creamy thick stem.Heat oil in a large pot on
mashed potatoes. medium heat and add garlic.
Turn off heat and set aside. Saute garlic until fragrant and soft,
Sift together flour, salt and basil. Add about 2 minutes.
oil and water and knead until a stiff Add kale and cook and toss using
dough forms. tongs until kale is bright green and
If you’re going to be cooking your wilted, about 3 minutes.
ravioli the same day that you’re making
them, you’ll probably want to put a large Roasted Turnips
pot of water up right about now so it’ll Turnips, Olive oil, Salt and pepper
be ready to go when you’re done with
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
assembly. Add a dash of salt and a
Peel and chop turnips into chunks about
dollop of olive oil to the water. 3
/4-inch across. Drizzle with olive oil, salt
Turn out dough on a lightly floured
and pepper.
surface and roll it as thin as you can with
Place in a baking dish or sheet and
a rolling pin if you’re like me and don’t
roast for about 40 minutes, flipping
have a pasta maker (thought if you have
halfway through, until turnips are tender,
a pasta maker, by all means use it). You
browned, even a little caramelized.
may want to work with a small portion of
Serves 6-8 people as a side dish.
the dough at a time.
Cut your dough into roughly matching Recipes courtesy Nicole Solomon
12 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

Grace to get
produce from
dedicated
urban garden
By Jennifer Biggs
The Commercial Appeal file photos
biggs@commercialappeal.com
Grace Restaurant chef/owner Ben
There are many changes going on at Vaughn: “Of course, we’ll get as much
Grace Restaurant in Cooper-Young, locally as we possibly can, but you
some very exciting and some more can’t always do that. Seasons change.”
practical.
To the exciting first, of course: percentage of ingredients that are sourced
Chef/owner Ben Vaughn has found a 11/2- from small farms. He started doing this
acre plot in Midtown that is going to be last month and says he’s running between
used to grow most of the produce for the 80 percent and 85 percent.
restaurant. He asks that diners understand that
“We’re hiring Lori Green of Downing flexibility is the key to a successful farm-
Hollow Farm to be our farm manager,” he to-table experience.
said. “I didn’t want to get this land, then “I might have gotten great beef, but the
just throw money at the wind and hope it farmer could only sell me 8 pounds of it,”
would work. That’s why we’ve got her.” he explained. “If you come in at 9:30 for
The urban garden won’t be producing dinner and we’re out of beef, it’s because
until the spring, but Vaughn is moving that’s all we could get, not because we’re a
toward a 100-percent farm-to-table poorly executed restaurant.”
operation at Grace. Specials at Grace include a four-course
What that means is that everything he dinner on Thursdays for $30, plus $15 for
buys will eventually come from small, wine pairing. The restaurant has also
family-run farms. He’ll buy as much of it as opened for lunch on Friday, where $15
he can locally, but he admits that can’t gets you three courses and live
always be done. entertainment.
“Some of our local farms and vendors Call Grace at 274-85113 for more
have been great about helping me find information.
other places,” he said. Contact Jennifer Biggs at 529-5223. Her
At the top of the menu, he lists the blog is whiningdining.com.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 13

Ghana whipping our tails


Sustainability movement at being green any more
than we wanted Japan

turns values upside down whipping us in


technology.
I spent a couple of
months in West Africa
GOING GREEN IS an odd value for us after college. Being green
Americans. It goes directly against our consumer wasn’t yet big then, but
looking back, those were
culture. the greenest days of my
life. We ate locally caught
The more They have to reuse fish and homegrown
“green” one tries to everything because vegetables. Not because it
be, the less one they have so little was cool, but because it
tends to own. The to work with in the was all that poor
less one tends to first place. community had.
use, the more one The bag in I had a few white T-
admires people who which you bring shirts and some wraps.
are simple, self- DEANNA
dinner to the Two meters of cloth was
sufficient, frugal. CASWELL abused women’s my skirt, my coat, my bed
Going green shelter is just as sheet at night, my dress,
exposes how Practically much a gift to my hat for the funeral.
meaningless Green them as the Everything I needed fit in
consumerism and contents. They a small knapsack. We
the accumulation of have one pair of sandals. bathed from buckets and
possessions are. And Three saris. Flour sack washed our clothes in
without our even underclothes. One rosary, well water. Talk about
realizing it, trying to be one crucifix and a prayer conservation!
green raises our book. And even then, they But going green, with
estimation of the poor. cut donated bars of soap all its positive effects, can
“Green” is something we into fourths, because who become dangerous if it
do by choice, but being needs a whole bar of Ivory becomes a religion unto
less wasteful and soap? How very green! itself. Who are we saving
consumeristic — that’s Americans have always the planet for? Are we
something the poor do by been competitive. But for saving it to honor the
necessity. once in our history, we’re gifts we’ve been given on
The Missionaries of competing not with the our Earth and to preserve
Charity (Mother Teresa’s richest nations but with those gifts for future
nuns) Downtown reuse the poorest. Websites generations? Or are we
and recycle everything calculating our footprint saving it for the gifts
that comes into their and resource usage themselves while seeing
hands. Not because compare us to the poorest people as a plague on the
they’re politically active. nations. We don’t want planet?
14 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

Those things may not


seem to matter when
you’re sorting the trash,
but as going green really
takes off, it’s the most
important question. “Why
let this one keep living,
why let that one be born?”
Given the wrong
foundation, going green
could get really ugly,
especially for the poor and
vulnerable.
Going green, with the
right motivations, is a Van Smith of Collierville shows off the Best in
beautiful value that I’m Show ribbon he won at a recent floral contest.
proud to promote.
It channels our
competitive natures in a GREATER MEMPHIS GARDENER
remarkably
nonconsumeristic
direction. If we all adopted
green living, economists
Collierville’s Van Smith
would start pulling their
hair out. Going green is
one of the most exciting
enjoys growing irises
things that has happened
in our social conscience in When asked what is his favorite flower, Van Smith
ages. of Collierville is quick to answer.
Green really is good for “The iris, the state’s flower,” Smith said.
us and the weakest among Smith, who has been gardening for more than 40
us — as long as we’re doing years, is a member of and treasurer for the West
it for the right reasons. Tennessee Iris Society. Every year, the club holds its
annual iris contest where Smith shows off his
Deanna Caswell is a local award-winning flowers.
writer who blogs at Aside from gardening, Smith also is a avid golfer
littlehouseinthesuburbs.com. and spends several days a week on the golf course.
Her first book, “First Ballet,”
was released this year by “I play golf an average of three times a week,” he
Hyperion. Caswell and her said. “It raises your blood pressure.”
husband, Jeff, live in
Collierville. She practices eco- Are you with a gardening club? If so, which one?
friendly living while raising
their three children, along Smith is a member of the West Tennessee Iris Society,
with pygmy goats and which has a club garden on West Street at the railroad
chickens. tracks in Germantown.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 15

How long have you been interested out with an umbrella and watch the water
in gardening? Forty-five years. rush down just like a small river.”
Average amount of time involved What type of gardening project would
with gardening: On the average, Smith you like to try in the future? “I have run
says he spends about eight hours a week out of space for new projects. All I can do is
gardening. improve on what I already have.”
How’d you get your green thumb?
“From my parents, who even with a small What advice would you give to
city lot, always had at least a few tomato someone interested in gardening? “If
plants.” planting a tree, shrub or flower and
Current or most recent gardening watching it develop into something
project: “I just completed an Arkansas appealing to the eye doesn’t turn you on,
field stone extension to a water drain-off you’re in the wrong business. I spend at
area just in case it ever rains.” least an hour a week in a meditation area
Favorite gardening project: “When I in the woods beside my house looking
bought my present house there was an around and absorbing nature’s wonders.
eroding area on the side from the rush of It also lowers your blood pressure.”
water coming off a neighbor’s yard. I built
an Arkansas field stone creek-like drainage If you are a gardener from Collierville or
Germantown and would like to be featured as
area about 30 feet by 5 feet long to carry a Greater Memphis Gardener, call Matt Woo
runoff water down the creek to the woods. at 529-6453 or e-mail
Sometimes when we have heavy rains I go woo@commercialappeal.com.

Old things
‘new’ again
Center City Commission
employees Lorie Chapman
(left) and Dawn Vinson carry
items to be recycled by 5R
Processors Ltd. s part of
America Recycles Day. All
types of electronic
equipment brought to the
Downtown e-Recycle Drive
will be recycled or
Alan Spearman/The Commercial Appeal refurbished forfuture use.
16 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

St. Agnes, IP pair up to recycle


By Ginger Jordan recycling paper, cardboard and
Special to Going Green plastic. The “Green Team,” made
up of fourth-grade students, picks
In East Memphis, St. Agnes up the recycling collected from
Academy and St. Dominic School classrooms and offices weekly.
are partnering with International International Paper has provided
Paper on a school-wide recycling the recycling containers, as well as
initiative this year. T-shirts for members of the
The program kicked off with an schools’ “Green Teams.”
educational presentation from the Ginger Jordan is director of
“IP team” on the importance of communications and alumnae relations
recycling. Now on a daily basis, for St. Agnes Academy-St. Dominic
students, faculty and staff are School.

St. Agnes Academy-St. Dominic School students Grace Patton (left),


Julia Schneck, Will Henderson and Nic Cantu attended the grand
opening of the International Paper Recycling Plant where they met
Shelby County Mayor Mark Luttrell. Will, dressed as “Sir
Sustainability,” won the recycling costume contest sponsored by IP.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 17

The Commercial Appeal file photo


Paul Knipple feeds his family's flock of chickens at his Midtown home .

YARD
By Lindsay Melvin
lindsay.melvin@commercialappeal.com

A block from the fast-food joints lining Union


Avenue and the hum of passing fire trucks and

BIRDS
police cars, chickens peck through the straw-
covered soil of a backyard enclosure.
Lured by the promise of year-round fresh eggs,
the Knipple family started raising chickens
behind their Midtown home nearly two years ago.
“We live in Midtown, it’s in the zoning, we
Midtowners’ quest for have to be hippies, “ said Paul Knipple.
farm-fresh eggs puts The urge to tend poultry with his wife, Angela,
however, stems more from their passion for
plan for raising exceptional food than any earthy inclinations.
poultry in motion Both are fervent recipe collectors and
contributing writers for Edible Memphis, a
18 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

magazine that explores local cuisine. Typically, the Knipples’ chickens lay
Before the Memphis natives recently four to five eggs each day, leaving them
headed to their day jobs as information with more than they can eat.
technology specialists for FedEx, Angela At one point they had eight dozen
sprinkled feed in the spacious screened cartons in the fridge.
hut of their chicken coop, while extolling “That was just scary,” said Angela, who
the incomparable flavor of fresh eggs. bakes as much as she can and gives the
“There’s a huge difference,” she said. rest away to friends and family.
“Even the yolks are more orange.” But since temperatures have dropped,
Locally hatched eggs from the the girls have been on strike.
Memphis Farmers Market Downtown “We just bought eggs for the first time
first made Angela nostalgic for the in two years,” said Paul, cringing at the
flavors of her childhood, back when her thought of paying $3 for a dozen eggs.
grandparents raised chickens in a slightly Memphis has an ordinance against
less urban area outside Whitehaven. keeping livestock and poultry outside
But the farmers market had a limited agricultural zones.
egg supply and was open only half the year. But code enforcement for fowl has
On a mission to have their own stash been a gray area within city limits.
of brown-and-white-shelled gems and to “They’re not allowed in a residential
give their city-raised 15-year-old son, zone,” said Rose Hill with Memphis and
Patric, a unique experience, they Shelby County Code Enforcement, who
scoured the Internet for sites on raising added chicken matters are referred to the
backyard chickens. health department.
Through an online distributor, their The Memphis and Shelby County
flock of seven arrived via express mail. Health Department receives at most three
“The mailman complaints about
still looks at us chickens a year, and
funny, “ Paul said. “It makes you think more the city steps in
Their feathered about where your chickens only when there are
lineup now includes unsanitary
six lady birds and come from. ... It’s hard to conditions that are
one rooster. attracting flies or
There’s no way
think about them living in rodents, said vector
to know how many little cages, 1-foot-by-1-foot, control program
people in the Bluff manager L.C.
City are raising their whole life.” Garth.
backyard chickens, Blueberry
but Hollywood Pet ANGELA KNIPPLE Muffin, Cupcake,
on raising backyard chickens
Star on Broad has a Honey, Cheesecake
constant stream of and the rest of the
customers buying chicken feed. Knipple flock have yet to have a run-in
“It’s a popular thing now with eggs in with the law.
the grocery store costing a fortune, “ And the sweetly named bunch do
said store manager Sam Irwin. more than provide ingredients for
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 19

fabulous omelets, says the couple.


They have been able to ditch their
compost bin and now throw kitchen
scraps into the pen, where the chickens
turn the ground into a rich soil for
gardening.
But urban farming hasn’t been all rosy.
A year after receiving their first
delivery of chickens, a raccoon broke
into the coop and massacred seven birds.
“It was rough when we lost the first
batch,” Angela said.
The Commercial Appeal files
An electric fence now wraps the
enclosure. The EPA’s plan doesn’t put a limit
The couple have been imparting their on emissions or require plants to
chicken trials and tribulations, along reduce them by a certain year.
with other food adventures, on their
websites PaulandAngela.net and
Squirrel-Squad.Blogspot.com.
Elaine Belanger editor of Backyard
EPA’s first steps
Poultry magazine, said interest in
raising chickens in urban settings has to cut industrial
taken off in the last year and half.
She receives up to five e-mails a week
from people seeking guidance on
plant emissions
changing their city ordinances to label By Renee Schoof
chickens as pets rather than farm animals. McClatchy Newspapers
For anyone who’s spent time with
these plucky backyard dwellers, WASHINGTON — The
Belanger says family pets are exactly Environmental Protection Agency
what they become. has unveiled what new large
“Chickens are fun,” she said. “They’re industrial plants will have to do to
more like a dog or cat.” minimize their greenhouse gas
In fact, the Knipples have stopped emissions starting in January.
buying factory-farmed meat altogether The guidelines will let industry
and now depend on local farmers or choose the most cost-effective
hormone-free and free-range brands technology to reduce emissions on a
from Whole Foods Market. case-by-case basis. The use of
It’s part of a commitment to eat more appropriate technology will make
sustainable food, a value that has grown them eligible for new permits for
with the Knipples’ mock pastoral greenhouse gas emissions that will be
backyard setting. required for new and expanded
— Lindsay Melvin: 529-2445 industrial plants.
20 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

The EPA’s steps are much more economy in the slightest way.”
modest than the big stick of regulation Joe Mendelson, the director of global
that both opponents and supporters of warming policy at the National Wildlife
climate legislation used to talk about. Federation, said the EPA’s guidance on
The agency said that much of the the best available technology to control
greenhouse gas reductions under the emissions was a start toward using the
permit system would come through Clean Air Act to address global warming.
energy efficiency. “The EPA is saying, hey, there are a
The new guidelines are part of EPA’s lot of inefficiencies out there that are
early efforts to start reducing the contributing to our climate change
emissions of gases that build up in the problem, and you should start dealing
atmosphere and trap heat. The Supreme with them,” he said.
Court ruled that the agency has the Even if the EPA eventually takes
authority to regulate this form of stronger action to curb climate change,
pollution under the Clean Air Act. it can’t do enough on its own to get the
The guidelines require that regulators amount of reductions that will be
make sure that new plants — or those necessary by 2050, he said. “It really is
that are upgraded so that they can looking at all our activities — in ways
expand production — use available inside EPA’s jurisdiction or outside it —
technology to reduce carbon pollution. that get us, frankly, to rebuilding our
Businesses can choose the most feasible economy in a way that gets us the global
and cost-effective approach. warming reductions we need as a matter
Gina McCarthy, the assistant of survival between now and 2050.”
administrator for EPA’s Office of Air and Jeff Holmstead, an attorney who
Radiation, said the technology represents power companies and who
requirements for new and expanded was the EPA air administrator during
facilities are part of a “common-sense, the Bush administration, said the new
step-by-step and transparent way” to guidelines would amount to a
reduce greenhouse gas emissions. moratorium on plant construction.
She also said the agency has no “As a practical matter, no one is going
estimate of how much of a reduction the to be able to get through EPA’s new
emissions control technologies on new permitting process for a long time,” he
plants would achieve. said in a statement through a
“This is not about capping or overall spokesman.
reductions across the country,” she said. EPA’s McCarthy, however, said there
Frank O’Donnell, the president of won’t be a moratorium. Regulators and
Clean Air Watch, a nonpartisan industry had months to prepare, she
watchdog group, called the EPA said. The EPA held meetings with
announcement “a very modest first step.” industry groups to hear their views
“I hope this will quiet down the about the permit requirements. Now
demagoguery,” he said. “A lot of people regulators at the state and local level are
are saying the EPA is going to ruin the ready to issue permits, and EPA expects
economy and they’re overreaching. the permitting will go smoothly,
There’s nothing here that could hurt the McCarthy said.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 21

Toby Talbot/Associated Press


Even with heavy subsidizing by the U.S. government, renewable energy has a
long way to go before it can meet America’s energy needs.

Green dream: Meet reality


Fossil fuel use tough to change inconvenient truth is that no one has yet
developed an alternative to fossil fuels
By Kerry A. Lynch capable of providing energy on a
McClatchy-Tribune comparable scale at a comparable cost.
As the Obama administration
The vision of a “green” economy continues its push for a moratorium on
fueled by wind, sun and renewable fuels deep-water drilling and earmarks an
is powerfully appealing. But there’s a additional $2 billion in stimulus funds
huge disconnect between this vision and for solar energy companies, Americans
the reality of America’s energy needs. need to recognize that developing
The widespread use of fossil fuels — cleaner energy sources and reducing
oil, natural gas and coal — has enabled our reliance on fossil fuels is not
the United States and other impossible, but it’s a huge challenge
industrialized countries to create that is much more complicated than the
unprecedented prosperity. The bumper stickers and slogans suggest.
22 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

The Commercial Appeal files


Transportation accounts for nearly 28 percent of total U.S. energy use.

Shifting from one energy source to investments needed to develop them —


another is difficult because their costs something that won’t change
vary greatly and they are not necessarily dramatically any time soon.
interchangeable. Some 84 percent of the Moreover, petroleum, natural gas, coal,
energy we Americans consume comes nuclear power and renewable energy are
from fossil fuels today. Only 8 percent not interchangeable and cannot
comes from renewable sources — most necessarily be substituted for one
of that from hydroelectric power. another. Wind and solar power, for
For all the hype over wind and solar, example, cannot be used for
the reality is that they contribute very transportation. And nuclear power can be
little to our energy supply, with wind used only to generate electricity.
accounting for less than 1 percent of To make intelligent choices,
total U.S. energy consumption and solar Americans need to see the big picture.
for just one-tenth of 1 percent. Together, They need to understand that nearly 28
they could power the country for all of percent of total U.S. energy use goes to
three days a year. transportation and that 95 percent of
What’s more, renewables are that comes from petroleum, while just 2
extremely expensive relative to fossil percent comes from natural gas and 3
fuels because of the huge up-front capital percent from renewable energy.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 23

Americans need to Homeowners use sun, wind to power


understand that industry homes, make a little green
consumes about 21 percent of
total U.S. energy. Some 42 With his latest green-energy project, home builder
Bill Decker is now in the electricity business.
percent of that also comes from Last December, Decker installed 20 solar panels
petroleum, 40 percent from atop the family’s Decker Horse Stables in Temperance,
natural gas, 9 percent from coal Ohio. While the typical home solar array aims to wean a
and 10 percent from renewable building off the power grid, Decker’s 4-kilowatt setup
energy, mostly hydroelectric. feeds all the electricity it generates back into the grid.
Our homes, offices and Decker said he’s earning an average of $275 a
businesses consume 11 percent month, or $3,300 a year, for the system’s power
contributions through a feed-in tariff program offered
of the energy we use. Some 16 by Consumers Energy.
percent of that comes from If the sun keeps shining, he could pay off his share
petroleum as well, 76 percent of the panels’ installation costs in six years or less.
from natural gas and 1 percent “You’re helping the environment and you’re
each from coal and renewables. making money, so it’s a win-win situation,” said
Finally, our electric utilities Decker, co-founder of Decker Homes. “I think it’s
consume just over 40 percent of absolutely the wave of the future.”
the energy we use. Just 1 In rural Bowling Green, Ohio, Sean and Denise
Brennan show off the wind, insulation and geothermal
percent of that comes from heat-pump systems that are saving them hundreds of
petroleum, 9 percent from hydro dollars a year in utility costs.
and other renewable sources, 17 The geothermal pump is tied in to 1,300 feet of
percent from natural gas, 21 buried piping, which works to capture energy in the
percent from nuclear power and ground during colder weather. The unit then
51 percent from coal. compresses the ground heat to a higher temperature
The point is: Fully 84 percent and sends it inside their home as warm air.
The process is reversed in the summer, with heat
of the energy we consume comes from the Brennans’ home sent to the cooler earth.
from petroleum, natural gas and To help keep the heat inside, the Brennans spent
coal. Even with the government a couple thousand dollars for a sprayed
heavily subsidizing green energy polyurethane and fiberglass insulation when they
with some $80 billion in tax built their home in 2006.
credits and subsidies in the 2009 The family erected a wind turbine on their property
stimulus bill alone, the Energy two years ago. Brennan said they spent an initial
Information Administration $16,000 on the project and received a $6,000 rebate .
Brennan said the turbine generates about 15
projects that the United States percent of the family’s total energy usage, saving
will still likely get three-fourths them several hundred dollars annually. Though the
of its energy from fossil fuels 25 cost-savings haven’t been as high as they hoped,
years from now. Brennan said the investment was still worth it from
The “green dream” needs to an environmental standpoint.
face this reality. “Up front I looked at it as a way to save money on
our monthly bills, but as we got into it, it’s become
Kerry Lynch is a senior fellow at more and more about (reducing) our carbon
the American Institute for Economic
Research (aier.org) in Great footprint,” said Brennan.
Barrington, Mass. J.C. Reindl, Associated Press
24 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

For those who want to have a look at the new cups, they’re only on the
multipacks. If it doesn’t have a recycling code on the bottom, it’s the new PLA.

That yogurt cup? It’s made from corn


By Sandy Bauers president of natural resources, was hap-
The Philadelphia Inquirer py to explain the kind of thought this
company, like many others, is beginning
A lot goes into a package of yogurt, to put into packaging.
apparently. Corn initially gave Hirshberg connip-
And I don’t mean the yogurt. I mean tions because of chemical-intensive
the package. farming methods. She didn’t like using
New Hampshire organic yogurt maker food for something other than food.
Stonyfield Farm unveiled new cups that Stonyfield is even using a massive
industry experts say put them at the top Cargill facility in Nebraska that also
of the packaging game. turns out high-fructose corn syrup.
The cups, used for their multipacks, Yes, the company could have used
are plant-based, not petroleum-based. plastic from beets. Or tapioca. Or sugar
The specific plant is corn. cane. All are feedstock for the new “bio-
I never thought there would be that plastics,” but they had impacts as well.
much to say about yogurt containers. Hirshberg points out that the corn
But Nancy Hirshberg, Stonyfield’s vice Stonyfield is using is yellow corn, which
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 25

is not the best for eating. Next phase in ‘Greening the


The company found its ultimate National Mall’ announced
answer in a new program with the Coca-Cola wants YOU... to please recycle
Institute for Agriculture and Trade when you visit the National Mall. One year
Policy, a nonprofit organization that after announcing an investment of more than
works to ensure fair and sustainable $1 million in the National Park System in
food, farm and trade systems. partnership with the National Parks Service,
It works kind of like the wind pow- National Park Foundation and the Trust for the
er that people “purchase” through National Mall, Coca-Cola helped launch the
their electric company. first sustainable recycling program to help
keep the National Mall clean and green by
Stonyfield’s payments to the pro- donating 320 recycling bins and recycling
gram ensure that the equivalent trailers for special events.
amount of corn it usesis farmed with The 320 recycling bins will be a permanent
upgraded methods to control soil addition to the National Mall, dotting the
erosion. Chemicals are restricted. No landscape stretching from the Capitol
carcinogens. No Atrazine. No genet- Reflecting Pool to the Lincoln and Jefferson
ically modified corn. memorials. Coca-Cola is donating two recycling
trailers and 400 additional bins to be used
At the plant, corn is turned into a during special events held on the National Mall.
corn starch and then fermented. It “At Coca-Cola, caring for our environment
comes out as PLA — or polylactic is part of our heritage, and we are committed
acid. It’s in pellets, which then go to a to preserving and protecting it,” said Steve
plant in Illinois to be turned into rolls Cahillane, president and chief executive officer
of plastic, which then go to Stonyfield of Coca-Cola Refreshments. “We have
to be made into the little cups. supported our national parks for decades.
Stonyfield’s cups can’t be compost- There’s no better place to provide a visible
reminder of recycling than on the National
ed but can be recycled. Instead of being Mall, which hosts more than 25 million visits
“downcycled” like most plastics, PLA annually. Recycling is one of the easiest ways
can be endlessly turned into new PLA. to help keep our national treasure pristine.”
But even without a good end-of-life Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar signed
solution, Hirshberg says that Stony- the National Mall Plan at the Thomas Jefferson
field is seeing a 48 percent reduction Memorial during a Trust for the National Mall
in its cups’ environmental impact. event. The signing capped off a planning effort
that included input from more than 30,000
This seems a hopeful sign. Americans in all 50 states, and culminates in a
Indeed, while packaging has under- vision and direction for future conservation
gone huge changes — becoming and preservation of the National Mall.
lighter and squarer, so more can fit in “Recycling is perhaps the easiest and most
a defined space — using better ma- effective way to protect our environment,”
terials is the new quest, says Anne said Peggy O’Dell, regional director for the
Bedarf of the Sustainable Packaging National Capital Region of the National Parks
Coalition, a project of the sustainabil- Service. “The sustainable recycling program
on the National Mall is one which we hope to
ity nonprofit organization GreenBlue. replicate in other parks across the country,
She and Hirshberg agree that Stony- and thanks to Coca-Cola’s support, we’ve
field’s new package is only a step. But diverted 60 tons of material from landfills in
Bedarf praised it as “progressive.” the first three months of the program.”
26 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

EARTHTALK

Donating food reduces waste,


helps to feed those in need

Brand X Pictures
Many U.S. food businesses will not donate excess food to those in need due to
liability concerns. However, it is an unfounded fear because laws in all 50 states
protect food donors from civil and criminal liability for good faith donations.

Dear EarthTalk: I work at a fast food Many restaurants, fast food or oth-
place and I am appalled by the amount erwise, are hesitant to donate unused
of unpurchased food we throw away. food due to concerns about liability if
The boss says we can’t give it away for people get sick after eating it — es-
legal reasons. Where can I turn for help pecially because once any such food is
on this, so the food could instead go to out of the restaurant’s hands, who
people in need? knows how long it might be before it is
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 27

served again? But whether these cies that feed hungry people, usually
restaurants know it or not, they can- later that same day. Mama’s Health, a
not be held liable for food donated to leading health education website,
organizations, and sometimes all it maintains an extensive free database
might take to change company policy of food banks and food rescue pro-
would be a little advocacy from con- grams state-by-state.
cerned employees. Unused or even partially eaten food
A 1995 survey found that over 80 waste can also be utilized even if it’s
percent of food businesses in the U.S. not edible by human standards. The
did not donate excess food due to li- U.S. Department of Agriculture ap-
ability concerns. In response, Congress proves of food businesses giving or
passed the Bill Emerson Good Samar- selling food waste to local farmers for
itan Act, which releases restaurants use in composting or as animal feed. If
and other food organizations from li- such food contains or has come into
ability associated with the donation of contact with meat, it should be boiled
food waste to nonprofit organizations for 30 minutes to reduce the risk of
assisting individuals in need. The act bacterial infections in the animals that
protects donors in all 50 states from eat it. Many states have complemen-
civil and criminal liability for good- tary laws on the books regulating the
faith donations of “apparently whole- donation of food waste at the local
some food” — defined as meeting “all level.
quality and labeling standards imposed Many cities and town are now ex-
by Federal, State and local laws and panding curbside pickup programs to
regulations even though the food may include kitchen scraps and yard waste
not be readily marketable due to ap- and then diverting the food waste into
pearance, age, freshness, grade, size, profitable compost. Still, some 6.7 per-
surplus or other condition.” cent of the solid waste going into
While homeless shelters, elder care landfills consists of food discards, re-
organizations and boys and girls clubs ports the North Carolina Division of
are frequent beneficiaries of food do- Pollution Prevention and Environmen-
nations, the most common recipients tal Assistance. Diverting food waste to
are food banks and food rescue pro- feed hungry people or for animal feed
grams. Food banks, according to Cal- or compost is a winning scenario for
ifornia’s CalRecycle website, “collect all concerned parties as it not only
food from a variety of sources, save provides relief to overburdened land-
the food in a warehouse, then dis- fills but also helps meet social welfare,
tribute it to hungry families and in- agricultural and environmental needs.
dividuals through local human service Also, those restaurants, grocery stores
agencies.” They usually collect less- and other businesses that donate food
perishable items like canned goods, will likely reap the additional reward
which can be stored and used any of saving money on their actual waste
time. In contrast, food rescue pro- removal bill as their trash bins and
grams typically trade in perishable and Dumpsters won’t be filling up quite so
prepared foods, distributing it to agen- fast.
28 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

A long history
Fresh and local have extensive, sustainable role in the kitchen
By Lee Svitak Dean
Minneapolis Star Tribune

Alice Waters wasn’t the first


to be enamored of local foods.
Nor are the verdant fields in
California the only lush spots
to grow such foods.
Truth is, cooks have been
intrigued by the food in their
own backyards for a long time,
despite how difficult it may be
to grow in their locale. Here’s
a look at three cooks and their
insistence on local.
Georgia O’Keeffe’s art of
the kitchen
Food isn’t the first thing we
think of when we consider
artist Georgia O’Keeffe, whose
paintings came to define the
Southwest. Yet food — and its
presentation — were very
much on the mind of O’Keeffe.
Though her original home and
“I remember how she (Georgia studio were at Ghost Ranch in
O’Keeffe) guided me through the the hilly desert of New Mexico,
O’Keeffe refurbished an adobe
large Abiquiu garden, telling me building in Abiquiu, which she
where all the vegetables, fruits and bought for its garden potential.
The new property came with
herbs could be found.” water rights — a significant
feature in an arid region. O’Ke-
MARGARET WOOD effe’s goal was specific: She
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 29

wanted the space to grow her own “Do you think other people eat as
fruits, vegetables and herbs, said Mar- well as we do?” O’Keeffe asked Wood on
garet Wood, one of the last compan- more than one occasion.
ion/cooks to work with O’Keeffe.
Wood was 24 and O’Keeffe 90 when How far north can you grow?
she became the elder’s caregiver. For If you think the garden days are num-
five years, Wood cooked two meals a bered in northern parts of the lower 48,
day for O’Keeffe, who occasionally en- think of those in Alaska.
tertained a succession of friends and Ditto for restaurant days. For chefs
followers. aiming for tourists, it’s business as usu-
O’Keeffe was a follower of Adele al only in June, July and August.
Davis and Lelord Kordel, health food That’s the challenge faced by Har-
proponents in the 1950s (she lived to be rison McHenry, chef/owner of the Fresh
98, not so incidentally). O’Keeffe pre- Catch Cafe in Homer, Alaska, who has
ferred organic grains, ground her own made “fresh,” “local” and “sustainable”
flour, bought eggs and honey from her his guidelines since he opened the
neighbors. There was homemade yogurt restaurant five years ago.
from local goat’s milk and granola for
snacks.
“I remember how she (O’Keeffe)
guided me through the large Abiquiu
garden, telling me where all the veg-
etables, fruits and herbs could be found.
She spoke with pride about her organic
produce: the two-pound tomato that
was grown the previous summer, the
tree that bore the best applesauce ap-
ples, and the hardy raspberries that sur-
vived one spring when all the other
fruit froze,” wrote Wood in “A Painter’s
Kitchen, Recipes From the Kitchen of
Georgia O’Keeffe,” first published in
1997 and recently reissued.
The aesthetics of art also wove their
way into O’Keeffe’s meals, where she
wanted the food and presentation to be
simple and fresh. She was particular:
Lettuce was picked leaf by leaf to create
what we would now call “mesclun,” or a
mix of lettuce. Her table was kept sim-
ple, as was the food: plain white porce- O’Keeffe wanted food and presentation
lain china, colorful straw mats, soft to be simple and fresh: Steamed green
white napkins, with meals that were beans and fresh cucumbers sprinkled
equally unfussy. with salt and pepper.
30 GOING GREEN | Sunday, November 21, 2010 commercialappeal.com

“Just about everything but citrus can


grow in Alaska,” said McHenry. That
means normal vegetables — well, if you
call a 95-pound head of cabbage normal
— but bigger. Lots bigger, given that
there are 18 hours of light daily.
As for the local emphasis, well, you
can’t get much fresher than the fish
outside his window on the Homer spit.
“If a fisherman comes in with a load of
rockfish or mussels or a farmer brings
in broccoli rabe, that’s what ends up as
a special,” he said. “I want to showcase
Alaska’s cuisine.”
With the Fresh Catch Cafe open only
a few months annually, McHenry
spends the rest of the year as a butcher
(moose and bear, as well as more tra-
ditional animals) and perfecting the
kitchen particulars: curing bacon and
making sausage, mastering bread and
pastry technique.
By the close of summer, when he’s
ready to shutter the door, even the lo- “If a fisherman comes in with
cals are tired of fresh seafood, never a load of rockfish or mussels
mind that they’ve been dining on crab,
halibut, salmon and shrimp for months. or a farmer brings in broccoli
“By fall, we all need meat,” he said. rabe, that’s what ends up as a
Fresh Catch Cafe, 4025 Homer Spit Road,
Homer, AK 99603, (907) 235-2289, special. I want to showcase
freshcatchalaska.net (closed for the season).
Alaska’s cuisine.”
Harbor View to Holden Village
HARRISON MCHENRY
Who makes a change when they are Chef/owner of the Fresh Catch Cafe
at the height of their success?
Paul and Carol Hinderlie and their
business partner, Tom Ahlstrom, did worked earlier, and where Paul’s father
just that five years ago when they sold had been director.
the Harbor View restaurant in Pepin, They left behind a 26-year-history
Wis., and headed to the Cascade Moun- with a restaurant that had won national
tains of Washington for a new oppor- acclaim, a close-knit “family” of long-
tunity. The three were returning to their time staffers and the ability to source
roots, to run Holden Village, a Lutheran plentiful local foods, from mushrooms
retreat center where they had all to lambs.
The Commercial Appeal Sunday, November 21, 2010 | GOING GREEN 31

But they didn’t leave behind the min- rants that become temples, and where
istry of feeding people. food becomes God,” said Paul, a former
The trio finished their five-year-com- seminary student.
mitment to Holden on Sept. 1, during “Here at Holden, we give food that’s
which they faced challenges that would down to Earth.”
fluster even a Top Chef.
There are no roads to Holden. It
takes a two-hour ferry along Lake
Chelan far into the Cascades to get
there, followed by a 30-minute drive on
harrowing switchbacks to reach the re-
treat. Dry foods come in on a barge.
“We could survive two months if we had
to,” said Paul. Fresh food reaches them
by ferry.
They have plenty of local purveyors,
though logistics can become cumber-
some. “It’s fun to buy local,” said Paul,
“but we couldn’t survive on it.”
His staff has more turnover than a
fast-food joint — and the dish crew is
democratic (everyone on staff rotates
through the dish pit, as it is called).
The cooks are volunteers, many of
them college students in their early 20s,
who tend to stick around for three
weeks (for a short-term post) to one
year (long-term). Paul teaches them
cooking techniques along the way. Then
they’re gone, and he teaches the next Paul and Carol Hinderlie
batch of cooks.
“At Harbor View, after one year a
(above) left behind a
staffer might have moved up to prep 26-year-history with a
work,” Paul said with a shrug.
Yet they still cook from scratch: nationally- acclaimed
homemade bread, soup, salads, fish restaurant to take on the
(with cod and sockeye salmon from
Alaska), a philosophy they call “lavish ministry of ‘lavish simplicity’
simplicity.” at Holden Village in the
In his latter years at Harbor View, the
food world was quickly changing its Cascade Mountains.
focus from the meal itself to the celebri- “Here at Holden, we give food
ty status of the chef.
“I’m always surprised about restau- that’s down to Earth.”

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