Steel Truss Manual

Steel Truss Manual
Provided by
EASYSPAN Truss
8291 Mt. Vernon Rd.
St. Louisville, Ohio 43071
www.easyspantruss.com
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Copyright © 2009 EASYSPAN Truss
All rights reserved. No part of the manual may be reproduced, by any means,
without written permission of the authors.
Disclaimer of liability:
The authors shall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity
with respect to any loss or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or
indirectly by the information contained in this manual. While the manual is as
accurate as the authors can make it, there may be errors, omissions and
inaccuracies.
11/25/2009 steel truss manual.doc

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Steel Truss Manual
Table of Content
Introduction ...........................................................................................................6
Section 1 Preliminary information....................................................................7
1.a Safety Precautions .....................................................................................7
1.b Equipment ..................................................................................................7
Section 2 Overview of Construction ................................................................8
Section 3 Building Site ....................................................................................9
3.a Site Selection .............................................................................................9
3.b Site Preparation .......................................................................................10
3.c Material Delivery ......................................................................................10
Section 4 Post Placement .............................................................................11
4.a Squaring the Site......................................................................................11
4.b Footing Options........................................................................................16
4.c Drilling Holes ............................................................................................18
4.d Setting Posts ............................................................................................19
Section 5 Framing the Walls..........................................................................22
5.a Grade Boards...........................................................................................22
5.b L-girts .......................................................................................................24
Section 6 Trusses..........................................................................................26
6.a Delivery & Assembly ................................................................................26
6.b Lifting Trusses..........................................................................................27
6.c Gable Trusses..........................................................................................28
Section 7 Heritage Gables ............................................................................30
7.a Building the Heritage Gable .....................................................................30
7.b Locating EZClips ......................................................................................32
7.c Setting the Heritage Gable .......................................................................33
Section 8 Legacy Gable Trusses...................................................................34
8.a Setting the Legacy Gable .........................................................................34
Section 9 Intermediate Trusses.....................................................................37
9.a Cutting Post Tops.....................................................................................37
9.b Post Stubs................................................................................................37
9.c Setting Intermediate Trusses ...................................................................39
Section 10 Purlins ...........................................................................................40
Section 11 Bracing ..........................................................................................42
11.a X-bracing..................................................................................................42
11.b V-bracing..................................................................................................45
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Table of Figures
Figure 4-1 – Batter Boards 11
Figure 4-2 – Site Layout 12
Figure 4-3 – Initial String Placement 13
Figure 4-4 – Diagonal Dimension 14
Figure 4-5 – The 3-4-5 Method 15
Figure 4-6 - Footing Options 16
Figure 4-7 – Footing Options 17
Figure 4-8 – Locating Holes 18
Figure 4-9 – Adjusted Strings 19
Figure 4-10 – Corner Post Bracing 20
Figure 4-11 – Intermediate Post Bracing 21
Figure 5-1 – Grade Board Placement 22
Figure 5-2 – Grade board @ highest elevation 22
Figure 5-3 – Starting the Grade Board 23
Figure 5-4 – L-Girts 24
Figure 5-5 – L-Girt Placement 25
Figure 6-1 – Assembled truss with spacers 26
Figure 6-2 – Lifting a truss 27
Figure 6-3 – Heritage gable framing 28
Figure 6-4 – Legacy gable truss 29
Figure 7-1 – Heritage gable cuts (with 12” overhang) 31
Figure 7-2 – Heritage gable cuts (with no overhang) 31
Figure 7-3 – Girder placed on truss for marking 32
Figure 7-4 – Attaching EZClips 32
Figure 7-5 – Calculating gable girder placement 33
Figure 8-1 – Post bracket at Corner Post 34
Figure 8-2 – Steel Truss at Corner Post 35
Figure 8-3 – Gable Steel Truss at Intermediate Post 36
Figure 8-4 – Truss @ intermediate post detail 36
Figure 9-1 – Post Cut for Steel Truss 37
Figure 9-2 – Post stub over eave opening 38
Figure 9-3 – Post stub detail 38
Figure 9-4 – Intermediate Post Cap 39
Figure 9-5 – Intermediate Truss at Post/Post Stub 39
Figure 10-1 – First bay with trusses and purlins 40
Figure 10-2 – Purlin attachment detail 40
Figure 10-3 – Purlin Strapping 41
Figure 10-4 – Purlin Strapping detail 41
Figure 11-1 – X-bracing connection at peak 42
Figure 11-2 – X-bracing connection at eave 43
Figure 11-3 – Plan showing typical X-bracing layout 44
Figure 11-4 – Bending V-bracing in-place 48
Figure 11-5 – Bottom view of V-bracing 48

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Figure 11-6 – Top view of V-bracing 49

Figure 11-7 – Sample Truss layout showing V-bracing 50
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Steel Truss Manual
Introduction
The purpose of this manual is to assist you in the erection of your post-
frame building using EASYSPAN steel trusses. This manual will cover
the post-frame constructions steps leading up to and including the
attachment of your EASYSPAN trusses. If you already have your posts
set and initial framing completed, you can advance directly to Section 6
which details how the EASYSPAN Trusses attaches to the framing.
The step-by-step instructions and illustrations included here are not
necessarily the only way to build a post-frame building. They do,
however, comprise what feel are best practices for doing so. The tips
and suggestions are the result from years of post-frame & construction
experience, as well as feedback received from both customers and
contractors.
This manual is generic and assumes that other drawings or
documentation was provided with your building package that contains
specific dimensions and instructions for constructing your building. You
will find the acronym ASID (as shown in drawings) used throughout
this document reminding you to refer to your drawing set for specifics
on a certain topic. In the event of any discrepancy between this manual
and your drawings, the drawings should always take precedence.

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Steel Truss Manual
Section 1 Preliminary information

1.a Safety Precautions
Building your post-frame building is a challenging but rewarding
experience. Making it a pleasurable and safe experience is important
to us. The following precautions should be observed to insure that your
construction project goes as smoothly and as safely as possible.
• Care should be taken to wear appropriate protective clothing;
gloves, eye protection, steel-toed footwear, safety harnesses, etc.
• Take note of overhead electric lines before using ladders, cranes or
lifts.
• While setting posts, all open post holes should be covered or
marked off to prevent accidents from workers, children or animals
• Most metal panels will have sharp edges and should be handled
carefully. Also, large panels can catch wind and become hard to
handle.
Buildings under construction are vulnerable to high winds and can
present a safety hazard. It is the responsibility of the
erection/installation contractor (or customer) to recognize adverse
weather conditions and take prompt and appropriate action to protect
life and property.
1.b Equipment
Minimum
1) Tape Measure 6) Level
2) Framing square 7) Ladders
3) Post-hole digger 8) Hammer
4) Utility knife 9) Wrenches/ratchets
5) Metal shears
Recommended
• Transit
• Power hole auger with 18” (or larger) bit
• Scaffolding
• Nail gun
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Section 2 Overview of Construction

Constructing a post-frame building is not a difficult project, with proper
preparation, attention to detail, and experienced guidance provided by
this EASYSPAN Truss Construction manual. A typical post-frame
construction project includes the following steps.
1) Prepare site
2) Layout & drill holes
3) Set posts & backfill holes
4) Attach grade boards, girts and girders
5) Set trusses and check building alignment
6) Add purlins and roof bracing
7) Add siding metal
8) Add roof metal
9) Add metal trim

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Section 3 Building Site

3.a Site Selection
It is likely that by the time you receive this manual, your site has
already been selected and prepped. In the event that there is still some
flexibility on your part as to the best location, we offer a few
considerations.
Ground Slope – The slope of the site will affect (1) the rainwater
drainage around the building, and (2) the length of posts needed.
When possible, select a site that will require as little excavation as
possible.
Soil Type – The type of soil where you plan to construct your building
can impact its lifespan. Sandy or continuously wet soil can be unstable
to build on. Extremely rocky soil can make setting posts difficult &
costly.
Zoning Considerations – Check with local authorities for any
restrictions regarding to types of buildings, building size, property
setbacks, and other relevant codes.
Other Structures – Take into consideration other buildings and/or
structures (both on the ground and overhead) that could interfere with
the construction or use of your new building. Take into consideration
the delivery of materials, as well as heavy equipment access to the
site.
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3.b Site Preparation

Once the site selection is finalized, it may need some preparation to
make it suitable for both construction and the building itself.
Grading – Prior to any construction, the site should be leveled as
much as possible. This area will ultimately serve as either the floor in
your new structure or the base for a concrete floor. It may be
necessary to use heavy equipment to help with this task, such as a
bulldozer, bobcat or similar.
If the selected site is sloped, the highest corner will be used to
establish your grade point of reference and will also be used to
determine the placement of all grade boards (Refer to Section 5.a)
Backfill – All posts need to be placed in virgin soil. If a site is sloped
significantly, fill dirt will be needed to backfill the low areas to level the
site, before holes can be dug for the posts. Backfill should be placed in
6”-8” layers, each compacted before adding the next.
Drainage - If site has surrounding ground which slopes toward the
building, it is recommended that ditches be dug to divert water away
from the building’s foundation. This will help preserve the posts &
flooring and keep the building’s contents dry.
Gravel -
3.c Material Delivery

Once the building site has been prepped, your building materials can
be delivered. Contact your EASYSPAN distributor to coordinate the
delivery schedule that works best for your project. Advance notice is
recommended to ensure that all materials are available on the
determined ship date.
As the materials arrive, choose a storage location for them which will
minimize any interference with construction and limit the need to move
them as construction progresses.

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Section 4 Post Placement

Proper post placement is critical to an easily-constructible, well-built,
and long-lasting post-frame building. This section details the steps for
laying out and setting your posts.
4.a Squaring the Site

Once the building’s site has been prepped, mark out the basic building
footprint, starting at one corner and working your way around the
perimeter of the building.
Batter Boards - Batter boards can serve as fixed reference points for
determining the exact placement of the corner posts. These boards
can be easily built using scrap lumber and placed at each corner of the
building.
Figure 4-1 – Batter Boards
Note: Batter boards should be made from scrap

lumber. Do not use lumber that is intended for
use during framing your building. This may cause
shortages later in the project.
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Once built, locate a set of batter boards at each corner of the proposed
building site using the buildings overall width and length. Be sure to
place the batter boards far enough away from the post locations to
allow for digging post holes.
Figure 4-2 – Site Layout
Once in place, care should be taken not to bump or move these boards
until posts are set and secured.

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Stringing Boards – Strings should be strung between the batter

boards to mark the overall footprint of the building. The strings will
represent the outside of the structure’s framing, not the location of the
posts. Note in Figure 4-3 that the stings are 1 ½” away from where the
posts will be set. We will reposition the strings later before setting the
posts.
Figure 4-3 – Initial String Placement
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Squaring the Strings – In addition to the length and width of the

building, a diagonal measurement between opposite corner posts is
important in squaring your building. Refer to your building’s drawings
for a diagonal measurement from corner post to corner post. It should
be similar to what is shown below.
Figure 4-4 – Diagonal Dimension

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In some cases, the building’s size may be too large to easily measure
the diagonal distance. The “3-4-5 method” can be used to ensure that
the strings and ultimately the building are square.
At one corner, measure & mark 3’ on one string from where the strings
cross. Then measure & mark 4’ on the other string. The distance
between these two marks will be 5’ when the strings are “squared”.
Adjust each string at the other end as necessary.
Figure 4-5 – The 3-4-5 Method
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4.b Footing Options

There are a number of footing options that can be used for your
building. Some will be dictated by local codes. Below are four basic
types of post footings along with our recommendations.
Tamped earth (not recommended) –

This is the easiest footing type. The
hole is simply filled & tamped after the
post has been set. Since the post is
resting on soil, some settling is likely to
occur. This footing type is not
recommended for post-frame
buildings.
Concrete Punch Pad (conditionally

recommended) – This option provides
a more stable base for the posts and
prevents settling. Concrete is placed in
bottom of hole to thickness stated in Figure 4-6 - Footing Options
drawings. Concrete pads can either be
poured directly into the open holes or preformed pads can be
purchased and dropped into the holes prior to setting the post.
Backfill the whole with dirt compacted every 6 to 8 inches with a spud
bar or 2x4.
This footing option is acceptable for small to medium size buildings
which are fully enclosed because it does not provide any protection
against uplift.

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Butt Enclosed (not recommended) – acceptable for Legacy buildings
Full Encasement (recommended) – This option offers the most solid

construction. It is especially recommended for open-ended buildings
due to increased uplift caused by
the open design. It requires some
additional cost and effort, but can
also reduce the depth at which
posts need to be set.
Concrete is placed in bottom of
hole to thickness stated in
drawings. Concrete pads can
either be poured directly into the
open holes or preformed pads can
be purchased and dropped into
the holes prior to setting the post.
Figure 4-7 – Footing Options
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4.c Drilling Holes

Locating Holes – Using a tape measure
and a can of spray paint (fluorescent
colored paint works best), mark on the
ground where the center of each post is to
be placed. The distance from the string to
the center of the post (A) is found by
adding half of the post size (B) to the 1 ½”
setback (C) for the girts. (Figure 4-9)
Drilling Footing Holes – Use an 18” (or

larger) auger bit to drill holes. Drilling Figure 4-8 – Locating Holes
oversized holes makes it easier to level
and align posts. Holes should be 36” deep, unless specified otherwise
on your drawings or by local code.
Note: Be sure to clear all loose dirt from the hole

before setting the post.

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4.d Setting Posts

Adjust String Lines - Before setting the posts, restring the batter
boards, moving the string “inward” 1 ½” all around. This will place the
strings at the face of the posts, rather than at the girt line (compare
with Figure 4-3). This will allow posts to be placed “against” the
repositioned strings.
Figure 4-9 – Adjusted Strings
Note: When setting posts against the strings, be

sure not to push the string. This will effect the
placement of adjacent posts.
Note: All endwall (gable) posts should be oriented

the same direction.
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Mark Intermediate Post Locations – Use a bright colored marker or

tape to mark on the string the location for each intermediate (i.e. non-
corner) post. This will be more accurate than placing the post in the
center of the hole. Refer to drawings for placement and dimensions of
intermediate posts.
Setting Corner Posts – Starting at one of the
corners, set and level the first corner post, making
sure that it touches both strings lightly. A “post level”
(shown at right) is recommended for leveling posts
easily & accurately. Attach braces by nailing one
end of a 2x4 brace to the post and the other end to
a stake in the ground.
Continue this process for all other corner posts.
Figure 4-10 – Corner Post Bracing
Note: For buildings smaller than 40’ in length,

braces are best placed on the outside of the
building footprint to prevent them from getting in
the way when setting trusses.

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Setting Intermediate Posts – For intermediate (eave & gable) posts,

be sure to align the middle of the post with the mark placed earlier
(Section 4.d). Post should be braced immediately as each is set in
place and leveled. Long 2x4s, supplied with the building kit, can be
used as long as they are not cut. Once the post footings have cured,
they will be removed and repurposed as framing members.
For intermediate posts, attach one brace from the post to a stake in the
ground. Attach the other brace to an adjacent, secured post.
Figure 4-11 – Intermediate Post Bracing
Note: The “post-to-post” braces should be placed

“inside” the building to minimize any interferance
with girt placement on the outside of the posts.
Securing Posts – Once a post is in place, the hole should be

backfilled with dry dirt or concrete as shown in Section 4.b. Continue to
check the post for plumb until hole is completely full. The top of the
filled hole, whether it is soil or concrete, should be tapered away from
the post to prevent water from collecting against the post.
Note: At the highest elevation of the site, verify

that the distance from grade to top-of-post is
sufficient to allow for girder placement (wood
trusses). Check drawings for dimensions.
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Section 5 Framing the Walls

After the posts have been secured, it is best to let the concrete cure for
a minimum of 12 hrs before beginning any framing.
5.a Grade Boards

Placement - To find the location for the grade board, determine the
height of the gravel base. This will be the bottom of the grade board. If
there is to be a concrete floor, the bottom of the concrete will be the
bottom of the grade board.
Figure 5-1 – Grade Board Placement

As noted in Section 3.b and shown in Figure 5-2, the site’s highest
elevation should be used to establish your grade point-of-reference
and the placement of your initial grade board.
Figure 5-2 – Grade board @ highest elevation

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Once the grade board height is determined, place a mark on the

nearest post at top of the grade board. Use a transit (or a straight
2x4x16 & level) to marks to all adjacent posts.
Start the grade board at a corner post and allow it to extend past the
post by 1 ½”. This will allow the corner to be flush as shown. Nail the
grade boards with (4) 16d ring shank galvanized nails per end.
Figure 5-3 – Starting the Grade Board
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5.b L-girts
After the grade boards are in place, moving vertically up the posts, the
L-girts (horizontal framing between posts) are the next framing
members that will be added. Refer to drawings for proper spacing.
Figure 5-4 – L-Girts
If post braces interfere with the placement of a girt, the girt can be
skipped until bracing is removed.
Note: Do not cut the tops off of any of the posts

until the gable trusses or girders are in place.

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Figure 5-5 – L-Girt Placement
Note: Only place L-girts up to the building’s height

(eave dimension). L-girts on the gable ends that
are above the building height should only be
attached after gable trusses are set.
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Section 6 Trusses
6.a Delivery & Assembly
Your EASYSPAN trusses will arrive in two or three sections,
depending on the size of your building. Be sure to place the truss
bundles so they are not in the way of construction (Section 3.c).
Inspect the trusses after that have been dropped off. Do not use
damaged trusses.
The truss sections will need to be assembled using the provided
hardware. As each truss is assembled, stack them using scrap lumber
as spacers between trusses to protect the purlin clips.
Figure 6-1 – Assembled truss with spacers

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6.b Lifting Trusses

While trusses are engineered for handling roof loads, the process of
lifting them can create stress that the trusses were not designed for.
Adherence to the following guidelines is critical:
• Do not lift bundled trusses by the bands.
• Do not attach cables, chains or hooks to the web members.
• Do not lift trusses with spans greater than 30’ at their peak.
The quantity of “lift points” is important to lifting the truss safely. Lift
points should be spaced evenly across the truss, distributing the
weight appropriately.
Truss Span Lift Points

24’ - 36’ 1
40’ - 50’ 2
60’ - 70’ 3
80’ + 4
Lifting devices should be connected to the truss top chord with a
closed-loop attachment utilizing materials such as slings, chains,
cables, or nylon straps of sufficient strength to carry the weight of the
truss. Each truss should be set in proper position per the building
designer’s framing plan and held with the lifting device until the ends of
the truss are securely fastened and all temporary bracing is installed.
Figure 6-2 – Lifting a truss
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6.c Gable Trusses

After the bracing and framing is completed, truss can be set, beginning
with the gable (end) trusses.
Note: Before setting any trusses, it is important to

verify the “squareness” of your building.
EASYSPAN offers two truss series, Legacy & Heritage. The primary
difference is in how the gables are handled.
With the Heritage Series trusses, the gable “truss” is constructed out of
wood framing. EASYSPAN’s steel EZClips are attached to the framing
to accept the purlins.
Figure 6-3 – Heritage gable framing
If your building requires the Heritage

gable framing, go to Section 7.

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With the Legacy Series trusses, the gable truss is constructed similar
to the other intermediate trusses, containing integrated clips to accept
purlins.
Figure 6-4 – Legacy gable truss
If your building uses the Legacy gable

truss, go to Section 8.
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Section 7 Heritage Gables

The trusses provided with the Heritage package are “interior” trusses
only. The gable (endwall) “trusses” are actually girders, constructed out
of lumber (as shown in Figure 6-3). These will be built to match the
pitch of the EASYSPAN Heritage trusses that will be placed in the
interior of the building.
7.a Building the Heritage Gable

Framing the Heritage gables require precise cuts and measurements
to ensure that the purlins align properly with the interior steel trusses.
In this section, the examples and measurements used will be based on
a typical 4/12 pitch for the trusses.
Lumber Selection – The size of lumber that is used for the gable
girder depends on the post spacing on the gable end of your building.
Post spacing Girder size

8’ o.c. 2x6
12’ o.c. 2x8
16’ o.c. 2x10
Table 7-1 – Heritage gable framing
Sizes based on 20 lb ground snow load.

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Girder Cuts – One end of the girders will need cut as shown in one of
the two illustrations below, depending on your building’s overhang. (A
full size template is provided to assist in laying out these cuts.) The
other end of the girder will get a “plumb” cut.
Figure 7-1 – Heritage gable cuts (with 12” overhang)
Figure 7-2 – Heritage gable cuts (with no overhang)
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7.b Locating EZClips

Before installing the Heritage gable girders, the EZClips should be
added. The placement of these clips should align with the purlin clips
on your trusses. The easiest and surest ways to do this is to lay the
gable girder on one of the trusses and mark the board where each of
truss’s purlins clips are located.
Figure 7-3 – Girder placed on truss for marking

Once marked, the EZClips can be attached with the provided
hardware.
Figure 7-4 – Attaching EZClips

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7.c Setting the Heritage Gable

Since the gable “truss” is being constructed from wood, setting it
properly requires some calculations. The calculation will ensure that
the angle and placement of the girder matches the angle of the steel
trusses so that purlins can be attached properly.
The formula below is a universal formula that will allow you find to a
point on a gable post that will set the girder at the correct angle.
G*P+H+B=D
G Distance from outside of girt to inside of post (in decimals of an inch)
P Pitch (i.e. for 4/12 use 0.3333)
H Heel height (typically 6”)
B Building height (in decimals of an inch)
D Distance from grade to point on post (in decimals of an inch)
Figure 7-5 – Calculating gable girder placement

Example:
(G) Girt to post distance: 78.0” (6’-6”)
(P) Pitch: 0.3333 (4/12)
(H) Heel height: 6”
(B) Building height: 144.0” (12’-0”)
Formula: 78.0 * 0.3333 + 6 + 144.0 = 175.9974” (15’-0”)
Note: If your building has an overhang (as shown

above) make sure to allow for overhang distance
when attaching gable girders.
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Section 8 Legacy Gable Trusses

8.a Setting the Legacy Gable
Steel gable trusses are placed on the inside of the gable posts (i.e.
inside the building) resting on a “post bracket”. The post bracket is
attached to the post with the lag bolts provided and the top of the
bracket should be level with the top-most girt. The edge of the post
bracket should be flush with the outside (eave) edge of the corner post.
This will ensure proper placement of the truss.
Figure 8-1 – Post bracket at Corner Post

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Gable trusses are placed by resting on the “seat” created by the post
bracket. Secure the truss using the hardware provided.
Figure 8-2 – Steel Truss at Corner Post

(shown with optional overhang)
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At intermediate gable posts, the truss is held against the post using the
provided “post ties” and lag bolts. These post ties primarily serve to
keep the truss upright against the post while the rest of the roof system
(add’l trusses, purlins, and roof metal) is being erected.
Figure 8-3 – Gable Steel Truss at Intermediate Post
Figure 8-4 – Truss @ intermediate post detail

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Section 9 Intermediate Trusses

9.a Cutting Post Tops
Once the gable posts have been set, the tops of all posts can be cut.
Intermediate sidewall posts are designed to rest directly on top of the
posts, so they should be cut flush with the top of the top girt (as shown
below). The gable posts can be cut just above the gable girder or the
steel truss.
Figure 9-1 – Post Cut for Steel Truss
9.b Post Stubs

Ideally, all intermediate trusses would rest (or bear) on a post. It is not
uncommon, however, to have a truss that needs to rest where no post
can be placed. For example, if a garage door doesn’t fit in between the
building’s post (bay) spacing, it would not be acceptable to place a
post in the door opening. In such conditions, “post stubs” are used to
take the place of, and serve the purpose of, the post. Post stubs
provide both weight transfer as well as uplift protection.
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Figure 9-2 – Post stub over eave opening

The post stub should be the same size as the adjacent posts, and can
often be made using the scraps from when the post tops were cut off.
Figure 9-3 – Post stub detail

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9.c Setting Intermediate Trusses

A post cap is required on the top of each post (or post stub) to provide
an attachment for the steel truss. Attach the post cap such that the
edge is against the top girt (i.e. flush with the outside of the post) using
the hardware provided.
Figure 9-4 – Intermediate Post Cap

Once the post caps are in place on both sides of the building, the truss
can be set (see Section Lifting Trusses6.b) and secured to the
threaded studs on the post cap. If the building has an overhang, the
properly positioned post cap will ensure the correct overhang distance.
Figure 9-5 – Intermediate Truss at Post/Post Stub

(shown with optional overhang)
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Section 10 Purlins
When the building’s first bay has both trusses, purlins can (and should)
be added to begin giving the building its structural strength. A minimum
of (4) purlins per side should be attached as each truss is set.
Figure 10-1 – First bay with trusses and purlins

Place purlins in the purlin clips and secure them using the hardware
provided. Lumber for purlins should be 2100 Fb MSR (machine stress
rated).
Figure 10-2 – Purlin attachment detail

EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Since the EASYSPAN truss makes it possible to have bay spacing up

to 16’ o.c., the purlins may sag slightly prior to attaching the metal
roofing. To prevent this, slotted banding is provided and should be
attached on each bay half-way between trusses as shown below.
Figure 10-3 – Purlin Strapping
Figure 10-4 – Purlin Strapping detail

Purlins strapping is intended to go from one fascia board to the other.
Strapping should start at one fascia board, go across the peak, and
down to the opposite fascia board.
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Section 11 Bracing
11.a X-bracing
EASYSPAN trusses incorporate aircraft-grade roof cable x-bracing
between trusses. Each truss is built with a slot (at eaves) and an
attachment post (at peak) for the cabling.
At the peak, one end of the looped cable is secured to the post using
the provided hardware.
Figure 11-1 – X-bracing connection at peak

EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
At the eaves, the other end of the looped cable (with the eye bolt) is
fed through the slot in the truss and through the hillside washer. A nut
& washer are used on the eye bolt to tighten the X-bracing cable.
Figure 11-2 – X-bracing connection at eave
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Bracing guidelines:
• End bays are typically un-braced, except in the case of small
buildings with only (2) bays. In such cases, both bays should be
braced.
• There should be no more than (3) adjacent bays un-braced. Refer
to drawings for which bays should be braced.
• In high seismic areas, additional X-bracing may be required.
End bays Braced No more than (3)

typically bay. adjacent un-braced bays.
un-braced.
Figure 11-3 – Plan showing typical X-bracing layout
Note: Do not over-tighten X-bracing. This can

cause purlins to buckle and throw the building out
of square.

EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
11.b V-bracing
In addition to the X-bracing, V-bracing is also used on each
intermediate truss. V-bracing stabilizes the bottom chord of the truss
by keeping it vertical. This bracing serves the same purpose as the
lateral bracing used with wood trusses.
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
V-bracing is provided as straight stock which is bent against the bottom

chord of the truss at the location designated on the Truss Layout drawing

EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Figure 11-7). Each side of the V-brace is attached to the purlin with 16d
nails provided. The nails can be bent over on the back side of the
purlin.
Figure 11-4 – Bending V-bracing in-place
Placement and spacing of V-bracing is specified in the drawings on

the Truss Layout sheet.
Figure 11-5 – Bottom view of V-bracing

EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Figure 11-6 – Top view of V-bracing
Truss “A” “B” Quantity

Size Spacing Spread of braces
24’ 4’ 2’ 4
30’ 4’ 2’ 6
40’ 4’ 2’ 8
50’ 8’ 3’ 6
60’ 8’ 3’ 8
70’ 8’ 3’ 10
Table 11-1 – V-bracing Parameters
EASYSPAN Truss
Steel Truss Manual
Figure 11-7 – Sample Truss layout showing V-bracing

Steel Truss Manual

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Steel Truss Manual

Copyright © 2009 EASYSPAN Truss

11/25/2009 steel truss manual.doc

11/25/2009 steel truss manual.doc

Figure 11-6 – Top view of V-bracing 49

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Section 1 Preliminary information

Section 2 Overview of Construction

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Section 3 Building Site

3.b Site Preparation

3.c Material Delivery

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Section 4 Post Placement

4.a Squaring the Site

Figure 4-1 – Batter Boards

Note: Batter boards should be made from scrap

Figure 4-2 – Site Layout

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Stringing Boards – Strings should be strung between the batter

Figure 4-3 – Initial String Placement

Squaring the Strings – In addition to the length and width of the

Figure 4-4 – Diagonal Dimension

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Figure 4-5 – The 3-4-5 Method

4.b Footing Options

Tamped earth (not recommended) –

Concrete Punch Pad (conditionally

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Butt Enclosed (not recommended) – acceptable for Legacy buildings

Full Encasement (recommended) – This option offers the most solid

Figure 4-7 – Footing Options

4.c Drilling Holes

Drilling Footing Holes – Use an 18” (or

Note: Be sure to clear all loose dirt from the hole

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4.d Setting Posts

Figure 4-9 – Adjusted Strings

Note: When setting posts against the strings, be

Note: All endwall (gable) posts should be oriented

Mark Intermediate Post Locations – Use a bright colored marker or

Figure 4-10 – Corner Post Bracing

Note: For buildings smaller than 40’ in length,

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Setting Intermediate Posts – For intermediate (eave & gable) posts,

Figure 4-11 – Intermediate Post Bracing

Note: The “post-to-post” braces should be placed

Securing Posts – Once a post is in place, the hole should be

Note: At the highest elevation of the site, verify

Section 5 Framing the Walls

5.a Grade Boards

Figure 5-1 – Grade Board Placement

Figure 5-2 – Grade board @ highest elevation

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Once the grade board height is determined, place a mark on the

Figure 5-3 – Starting the Grade Board

Figure 5-4 – L-Girts

Note: Do not cut the tops off of any of the posts

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Figure 5-5 – L-Girt Placement

Note: Only place L-girts up to the building’s height

Figure 6-1 – Assembled truss with spacers

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