denim care guide

A bit of advice on how to care for your dry denim, how to wash, dry and store and how to
deal with the complications of shrinkage ...*Appart from a few basic rules, the long term care
of denim is subjective. This guide is informed by the opinions of oki-ni and industry experts.

dry denim

Dry denim is at its very best in a raw state – left unwashed the cotton becomes an organic
map of its wearer’s body and a record in fabric of their story.

Particular abrasion patterns, locations of wear and whiskering will appear over time as the
fabric shifts and settles; the longer the denim is kept dry the more developed and indelible
these coveted features become. Knees, ankles and crotch will develop wear and fading,
which can be accelerated with grease or oil treatments.

With this in mind, raw denim’s first wash should be put off for as long as possible (if it has
to happen at all). 6 months is considered the optimum time to let natural creases consolidate
in the fabric but many true denim aficionados opt out of washing their raw denim
altogether. Stuffing pockets with tumble dryer sheets or hanging jeans outside over night
are ways to combat smell without compromising the true nature of raw denim.

storage

As creases and contours mature, dry denim will fall into them naturally when you take
them off. The easiest storage is to unbuckle your jeans and leave them where they fall. Aged,
unsanforized denim can be hung to air without creases falling out.

shrinkage

Traditionally before denim is woven, the threads it's made of are treated with wax or resin
to stiffen them and make them easier to weave (although with most repro denim starch is
used instead). When dry/raw/unwashed denim is washed for the first time the fibres
constrict and the denim shrinks. Raw denim can be sanforzied (treated with a sanforizing
process that lessens shrinkage) but all raw denim will shrink to some degree upon
immersion in water, up to its third wash.

Un-Sanforized Denim
Raw, unsanforized denim (untreated with the sanforizing process that minimizes shrinkage)
will reduce in size between 10% and 30% over its first three washes, even when washed cold
(the best way to keep shrinkage to a minimum). This is only an approximation however;
shrinkage varies from brand to brand and even from style to style. If your waist measures
between 27”-36”, buy your unsanforized raw denim an inch larger in anticipation of
shrinking. If your waist is between 38” – 48” go 2 inches bigger. Go for a longer leg too – 3”
should do it, you can always cuff or tailor your jeans if they’re still too long after the first
wash. Raw denim can come with an inside leg as long as 36” in anticipation of shrinkage.

Sanforized Denim
If raw denim has been pre-treated (sanforized), shrinkage is greatly reduced – from the
10%-30% of unsanforized raw denim to an approximate 3-5%. Again, this shrinkage occurs
predominantly over the first three washes.

washing

There are two schools of thought where washing is concerned.

To wash

Rinsing denim before its first wear has practical advantages - mainly that any loose,
transferable indigo will be lessened. The majority of starch will be removed so creases and
whiskers will be softer but that is a look in itself that some denim fans want to achieve. A
softer crease also lessens the chance of a break through (holes wearing through the denim.)

...or not to wash

All indigo is precious and jeans should not be washed. Even if they're worn alln day they
shouldn't smell too bad (as long as there's no incidents involving sick/beer etc). If they do
need a clean, a proper denim laundry should be able to bake them to kill bacteria without
shrinkage. Some people think that cotton becomes weak and dry without washing but there
are denim fans who believe the opposite too.

If you do chose to wash your denim use as little soap as possible and if you can find a
neutral or non-biological washing powder use this. Biological washing powder contains
enzymes best avoided to preserve your denim. Don’t tumble dry. Even if you want
shrinkage tumble drying doesn’t guarantee an even reduction.

drying

To maintain consistent color dry indigo jeans flat. The dye can ‘marble’ when it’s wet if the
denim’s resting unevenly.

Dry thoroughly, it can take denim up to 2 days to air dry. Hanging outside is best for your
jeans but not always possible. To dry indoors you need a well ventilated room or airing
cupboard. Never place directly onto a heat source such as a radiator, this will damage fabric
and its finish. Lie flat and allow to dry as naturally as possible.