Fabric - Form and Flat Pattern Cutting - Designing Patterns

FABRIC, FORM and FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS
Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

E-mail: blazena.musilova@tul.cz
FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN

CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS
Close fitting garments made from stretch and jersey fabric, these
blocks are constructed to be smaller than the body measurements and
to the body shape. Some adjustments to the horizontal measurements
may have to be made, this should be related to the stretch and
relaxation of different fabrics. Most designs in stretch fabric are simple
modification of the basic blocks.
The examples in this chapter

demonstrate some particular
techniques.
© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Mechanical properties of the fabric

Knitted fabric will stretch and mould around the body.
Consequently, the amount of ease allowance can be reduced.
How much reduction depends on the elasticity of the fabric.
The final pattern production may have to be modified for
a specific fabric.
¾ Weft knitting is more extendable across, in the weft direction
warp knitting is firmer.
¾ Woven fabric with a blend of elastan (Lycra) can have the ability
to stretch in either the warp or weft direction or both.
Clothing pressure is a combination of garment, human body and
the mechanical interactions between them. True fitting tight - fit
sportswear to the body shape can only by achieved by the use
of a stretch fabric, which can expand and contract without buckling
or wrinkling to accommodate body movement.

The Swimsuit final pattern modification
80% PA, 20% EA

F…tensile force[N/m]
18.6 %
h
t r etc tion
s xa
a
rel
31.6 %
Weft
E…tensile strain [%]
Back part Front part

80% PA, 20% EA
F…tensile force[N/m]
Warp

Therefore, the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics are defined taking

into account the allowed limit of compression influence on human body.
Compression law
F…tensile force[N]
Compression(*)
Compression law
hPa mmHg(**)
Ccl A Light 13-19 10-14
*)
The values indicating pressure, whereby reacts garment
on hypothetical cylindrical shape of the body part.
**
millimetre of mercury 1 mmHg = 1,333 hPa
Weight Compression
Fabric - Fibre content (%) F [N] E [%]
[g m-2] [hPa]
PL 67%, PL Coolmax 27%,Lycra 6% 187 2,17 18,56 22,17
PL Coolmax fresh 63 %,PL 33 %,Lycra 4% 102 2,13 16,06 32,29
PL Coolmax 57%,PL micro 37%,Lycra 6% 251 2,16 18,8 24,31
PL Coolmax 60%, PL micro 40% 208 2,16 18,83 20,5
PA Supplex 92%, Lycra 8% 268 2,1 16,24 35,06
CO 90%, Lycra 10% 210 2,15 17,89 25,76
CO 90%, Lycra 10% 271 2,14 18,95 18,13

3
The resultant value application
1
in the construction procedure 4-5
of tight - fit sportswear 1-2

3
By means of the percentage value
0.05 hg +3
of currently selected knitted fabric elongation
the block pattern construction shape of
cd
a designed tight -fit sportswear e.g. pair 0.25 hg 0.25 hg 0.1 hg
of trousers etc. can determined. Value of
0.5 lli - 0.1 lli=x

elongation within the range 18-35%
y
0.05 hg+1.5
y
llo
is applied to body dimension modification 2 2
as construction input parameters.
Body dimension Modified girth dimension
0.5x
E [%]
[cm] [cm]
Waist girth (wg) 97 24 73.4 0.5 cg 0.5 cg
Hip girth (hg) 105.6 24 80.3
Calf girth (cg) 40 24 30.4
Ankle girth (ag) 28 24 21.3
Fabric: PL Coolmax 57%, PL micro 37%, Lycra 6% 0.5 ag 0.5 ag
(llo) – outside leg length, (lli) – Inside leg length 1 1
6-8
(cd) – Body rise (Crutch depth)

Input parameters for Sportweare design

Garment fit and pressure comfort play an important role in clothing comfort,
especially in the case of tight -fit sportswear.
There are three factors, which influence
the pressure exerted by garments:
¾Shape of the body parts
Foto:www.sport-invest.cz
Body shape is an important influential factor towards clothing pressure
as greater degree of curvature, the greater pressure exerted.
¾Type of the fabric used

The amount of pressure, which measured
in mmHg (millimeter of mercury) has
been found on vary in body locations when
garments were made
of different types of fabrics.
¾Design and fit of the garment

DesignConcept 3D
Body dimensions
Humans have to function and move unrestricted in clothing systems.
Seven extreme body postures causing changes of 18cm, 24cm, 21cm, 22cm,
27 cm, 16cm and 22cm respectively, relative to a neutral position (Lotens, 1989)

Ergonomics of movement
Ergonomic research is performed by those who study human capabilities in relationship to their sport demands.
¾Static Dimensions - measurements of the body at rest.

¾Dynamic Dimensions - measurements of body parts in motion.
Information derived from
these studies contributes - Dynamic factor
to the design and
evaluation of tasks,
products, environments x(s) - Measurement of body at rest
and systems in order to x(d) - Measurement of body parts
make them compatible
with the needs, abilities in motion
and limitations of people. Dynamic factor in percentage
INPUT Human Tools OUTPUT
α
Sport performance
Environment

Easy Fitting Blocks for Jersey Wear

Block for Tee Shirts
Measurements required A´B´=AB +2,5
1.5
to draft The Block y/4 0.75 2.0
ng A´
0.2ng-2
A
x/2=y
0.2ng+1 0.75
bg
x/2
ta+1=x
sl
wtg B´ 0.33 A´B´
nw+1
wg
B
hg bw+1
0.25 bg+2.5
Centre line fold

fl=(nw+ta)
sl
ta
bw
nw
0.5 wtg

Cycling Jerseys pattern design

B1
34,38 %
-12 % of bw Back
B3
1,08 [rad] +8 %
sleeve
sleeve H3´
13,38 %
centre front
back
π [rad] 0,84 [rad] Armhole

r
blocks 1,22 [rad] B5

-12 %
front Front H5´
back 38,84 %
B7
dynamic effect
=10% of measurement :
50°
Nape to waist
10% of nw

System of ease allowance

The system of the ease allowance
FRONT BODICE
can be defined as a complex
of influences effective in the shape
BODICE
BACK
and dimensions constructed clothing. A B
The type of fabric has a great
influence on the amount
of ease allowances pi for:
Constructional abscissa
¾body movement, ABi(w) = ki * Bi + ai + pi
¾expansion ABi(w) constructional abscissa
ki regression coefficient
¾comfort.
Bi body dimension
The dimensional stability of the fabric ai absolute term
is an important factor. pi allowance
The more stable the fabric,
the greater the ease allowance. e.g. for woven fabric:
Basic formula for front width:
This depends on whether it is: fw (front width)= 0.24*wg+(-1,5)+2,5
¾woven,
e.g. for knitted fabric:
¾knitted Basic formula for front width:
¾or non-woven. fw (front width)= = 0.24*wg+(-1,5) -2,5

Chart: Suggested minimum ease allowance to be added to the body

measurements for women´s block patterns in woven fabric
(measurements in centimetres). Size range 8 to 16 and 16 to 24
Blouse
MEASUREMENT BODY SIZE DRESS SIZE DRESS SIZE SKIRT AND TROUSERS SIZE BLOUSE
12 ´8 - 16 16 - 24 ´8 - 24 ´8 -24
bust girth 88.0 4.0 to 8.0 5.0 to 10.0 - 4.0 to 10.0
waist girth 70.0 4.0 to 5.0 5.0 to 6.0 2.0 to 4.0 4.0 to 10.0
hip girth 96.0 4.0 to 5.0 5.0 to 6.0 4.0 to 6.0 4.0 to 6.0
neck girth 38.0 2.0 to 3.0 3.0 to 4.0 - 2.0 to 4.0
across back width 35.0 2.0 to 4.0 3.0 to 5.0 - 2.0 to 4.0
across front width 32.0 2.0 to 3.0 3.0 to 4.0 - 2.0 to 4.0
upper arm girth 28.0 5.0 to 6.0 6.0 to 8.0 - 4.0 to 8.0
elbow girth 26.0 4.0 to 6.0 6.0 to 8.0 - 3.0 to 8.0
wrist semi-fit 16.0 6.0 to 7.0 6.0 to 8.0 - 6.0 to 8.0
wrist fitted 16.0 3.0 to 4.0 3.0 to 4.0 - 3.0 to 4.0
depth of armhole 21.0 2.0 to 3.0 3.0 to 4.0 - 2.0 to 5.0
thigh girth 57.0 - - 8.0 to 12.0 -
knee girth 37.0 - - 9.0 to 15.0 -
ankle girth 25.0 - - 8.0 to 12.0 -

Information tree to guide the design research process

for performance sportswear designers Mood, Safety, Commercial
considerations, Environmental
Colour impact
Aesthetics Materials Fibre types, Yarns, Fabric

selection
Cut/Fit/Proportion Garment construction,

Cutting for movement, Sizing
Form/Style Team/club/Co-identity
Corporate culture Commercial/legal concerns
Communicatio Hero/Fan culture
Life style subcultures
Culture Fashion
Code of tradition/etiquette
Historical context
of the sport History, Past heroes
Human factors, Product
Military research and development function, New technology
Contact/Non-contact sport
Protection Environmental conditions

Senses, Health/Safety
Demands Anthropometry Measurement of body
of the body Ergonomics of movement

Predominant patterns
and posture, Agility
Heat dissipation, Heat retention,
Thermo physiological regulation Workload, Ambient conditions
Function Psychological considerations

Appearance/StyleReliabillity/
perceptions of reliabillity
Short, Medium, Long

Duration of activity
Demands Rules of governing bodies,
of the sport Safty/Survival Protection, Identification

Location, Season, Climate,
Range of likely sporting conditions Transportation

Major international sports trade fairs where leading fibre and fabric producers
and garment manufacturers promote new developments for the sportswear

Production patterns
Seams, hems and facings are required to complete
a garment pattern for production.
The pattern technologist has to be aware of all the factors
that influence the completion of the patterns, such as:
¾the end use of the garment,
¾the design,
¾fabric,
¾production methods and cost.
The pattern construction techniques, creating pattern

shapes of the:
¾Shell pattern
¾Lining pattern
¾Interlining pattern
Seam allowances
The seam allowance is the distance from the stitching line
to the perimeter of a cut garment part. The amount of seam
allowance can vary greatly according to:
¾(1) The position of the seam and how much stress (1)
it has from body movement, e.g. an armhole and
sleeve head (minimum allowance 1 cm).
¾(2) The curvature of the seam influences the seam
width, e.g. the curved seam of a panelled bodice (2)
(3)
requires a narrower seam where convex and concave
(2)
curves have to be joined together (maximum of 1cm).
¾(3) Enclosed seams require a narrow seam allowance,
e.g. the faced neck and armhole (maximum of 0.7 cm).
¾ (4) The type of machinery required for stitching
the seam influences the seam allowance width
e.g. a flat felled seam Flat Felled Seam

¾ (5) The type of fabric often

determines the width of the seam
allowance and how it is neatened e.g.:
Seam for loosely Seams for sheer fabric
- loosely woven fabric woven fabric
- sheer fabric
- thick fabric
- stretch fabric
¾ (6) A wide seam allowance Seam for thick fabric Seam for stretch fabric
is required for inserting a zip fastener,
e.g. skirt placket (1.5 to 3.5cm).
Wide seam allowances, known
as inlays, are also required where
a garment is specifically constructed
for altering and letting out (1.5 to 3.5
cm). Wide seam allowances

The type of corners at the intersection of two perimeter lines can be varied
according to the method of production, the type of fabric and whether
notches are required. The selection and method of changing these types
of corners will vary according to the different computer systems.
The following examples are a selection of the most often used corner types:
¾Mirrored corners are used where
a seam is pressed open and the contour
of the intersecting perimeter line
is continued.
¾Square corners can be used where
the seam is pressed in one direction. Mirrored corners Square corners
¾A mitred corner is clipped off straight
and perpendicular to the corner to remove
excess fabric.
¾A shaped corner removes more excess
fabric by clipping off a double mitred corner.
A mitred corner A shaped corner

Hem allowance
The shape of the hemline influences the width of the hem allowance.
A straight hem lies flat when folded back so the hem can be quite wide.
Curved hems do not lie flat when folded back and therefore the hem
width has to be reduced.
The corners at each end of the hem also have to be considered
so that the turned up hem mirrors the intersecting seam.
Straight hem Circular hem

Straight hem with
mirrored corners

Facing
A facing neatens the edge of a garment. It can be an extension of a garment
part or cut separately.
It is generally concealed by turning underneath to the inside of the garment.
It can also turn back to be revealed on the face side.
B
¾ Facing a buttoned opening
B- button diameter
¾ Extended facing
B
facing
Button
CF
stand
WS
Facing a buttoned opening Extended facing

Lining the Suit Jacket

Easy allowance is required on linings for two reasons.
¾ Cloth garment pieces „spread“ a little when they

are cut out. Extra ease allowance is required on linings
because lining fabrics do not relax in the same manner.
The amount of ease required will vary depending
on the cloth used for the garment.
¾ The lining should also be loose enough to prevent

the garment being pulled out of shape when the lining
is inserted. Particular stress points are the armholes
and the centre back.
Note: Some bespoke tailors cut linings from the cloth pieces
of the garment, specific ease is then added
at the stress points.

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FABRIC, FORM and FLAT PATTERN CUTTING, DESIGNING PATTERNS

Blazena Musilova, FT TU Liberec, Department of Clothing Technology

FABRIC, FORM AND FLAT PATTERN

The examples in this chapter

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Mechanical properties of the fabric

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

The Swimsuit final pattern modification

80% PA, 20% EA

Back part Front part

E…tensile strain [%]

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Therefore, the mechanical properties of knitted fabrics are defined taking

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

of tight - fit sportswear 1-2

By means of the percentage value

of trousers etc. can determined. Value of

0.5 lli - 0.1 lli=x

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Input parameters for Sportweare design

¾Type of the fabric used

¾Design and fit of the garment

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

¾Static Dimensions - measurements of the body at rest.

INPUT Human Tools OUTPUT

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Easy Fitting Blocks for Jersey Wear

Centre line fold

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Cycling Jerseys pattern design

π [rad] 0,84 [rad] Armhole

blocks 1,22 [rad] B5

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

System of ease allowance

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Chart: Suggested minimum ease allowance to be added to the body

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Information tree to guide the design research process

Aesthetics Materials Fibre types, Yarns, Fabric

Cut/Fit/Proportion Garment construction,

Protection Environmental conditions

Demands Anthropometry Measurement of body

of the body Ergonomics of movement

Function Psychological considerations

Short, Medium, Long

of the sport Safty/Survival Protection, Identification

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

The pattern construction techniques, creating pattern

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

¾ (5) The type of fabric often

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Straight hem Circular hem

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Facing a buttoned opening Extended facing

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

Lining the Suit Jacket

¾ Cloth garment pieces „spread“ a little when they

¾ The lining should also be loose enough to prevent

© Technical University of Liberec 2009

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