Word Vietnam May 2016 PDF

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 5

TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS
OM
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AM
TN
IE
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THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

OR
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Contents
May 2016
60
14
86
THE TALK 24 / Carmen EAT & DRINK

A unique operatic collaboration
010 / Smartphones for the between France and Vietnam 104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
People This month’s review: Gastro: Food
The rise of the mobile phone INSIDER and Beer Pub
011 / The Big Five 54 / The Organic Farm 106 / Street Snacker Hanoi
May in Vietnam Growing organic fruit and veg in On the menu: bun oc co Hue
Hanoi
BRIEFINGS 108/ Mystery Diner HCMC
60 / Food Stories Japanese-style foie gras, anyone?
12 / Hanoi’s Weatherdude Tales behind the food and drink that
The weather, but not in Danish appears on your table 110 / Know Your Com Tam
Saigon’s best loved street food
14 / Railway Goes Suburban 86 / Mau Colour
Commuters get a welcome boost Graffiti artists from overseas find a
home in Hanoi 110
18 / Making Every Vote Count
This month’s guest column: Dr. 92 / The Latin Underground
Pratibha Mehta from UNDP Hanoi and Saigon have got a
passion for salsa
22 / Geva Alon
One of Israel’s top musicians 98 / The Saigon Pool Tour
prepares to play Vietnam Where to go to escape the heat
2 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Contents
May 2016
124
132
136
TRAVEL 50 / Just In COLUMNS

146 / The Alchemist
112 / Club Med 140 / Hanoi City Guide
A visit to everyone’s favourite 148 / The Therapist
holiday village 144 / Day Tripper
150 / Student Eye
118 / Phu Yen 152 / Bar Stool
Central Vietnam has some 156 / Medical Buff
stunning, untouched destinations. 154 / Top Eats
Phu Yen is one of them 164/ Business Buff
158 / City Map
124 / The Private Island 166 / Body and Temple
A snorkeling and seafood trip to HCMC
somewhere a little bit special 178 / Know Your City
38 / To-Do List
132 / Notes from Another City 184 / A World of Good
Entry 4: Get Outta Town 42 / Just In
FINAL SAY
136 / Destination Zero 160/ HCMC City Guide 188 / Food Poisoning
La Veranda in Phu Quoc The wrong side of the food chain
162 / Day Tripper
138 / The Motorbike Diaries 190 / Vegetarian Hanoi
The science fiction lands of India 174 / Bar Stool Forget dogmeat, the capital’s going vegan
HANOI 180 / Top Eats 192/ Ten 10

The most successful Vietnamese
46 / To-Do List 186 / City Map restaurant in London: Song Que

CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team to tell us about
their weirdest experience with food
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
HARRY HODGE
Contributor EDITORIAL
I remember walking in Beijing with
a buddy and exploring Wangfujing
NICK ROSS VU HA KIM VY
Street, famous for its pedestrian Chief Editor Editorial Manager
shopping. There was an alley where nick@wordvietnam.com vy@wordvietnam.com
you could get pretty much everything
fried: starfish, scorpions, beetles. I was kind of excited MADS MONSEN JON ASPIN
to try out the scorpions, but when I bit into the Creative Director Staff Editor
skewer, all I could taste was the oil. mads@wordvietnam.com jon@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN BAO ZOAN JULIE VOLA

Staff Editor Staff Photographer Photo Editor
‘Witchity grubs’ are the white, wood- baozoan@wordvietnam.com julie@wordvietnam.com
eating larvae of moths eaten by the
Aboriginal people of Australia. One RODNEY HUGHES NGUYEN LOC
day as a child while catching ‘yabbies’ Staff Photographer Layout Designer
in the creek, I was dared to eat one by rodney@wordvietnam.com loc@wordvietnam.com
another boy who knew where to find them. Not
JESSE MEADOWS
wanting to lose face, down the hatch it went. I’ve
Staff Writer (Hanoi)
never forgotten its glutinous, slimy texture or the jesse@wordvietnam.com
sinewy, salty taste.
SIAN KAVANAGH ADMINISTRATION

Contributor
Gator and catfish jambalaya in New BAO ROSS TRANG LE
Orleans — bloody delicious, wish I General Director Chief Accountant
could whisk it up myself on a whim. bao@wordvietnam.com trang@wordvietnam.com
Never quite had anything quite like
alligator sausage before and I can’t wait to
try it again. There’s just something so fantastic about ADVERTISING
Cajun cuisine, finding comfort in food combinations I
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Special thanks to Trung Del, Dr. Pratibha Mehta, Saigon Outcast, Hanoi Rock City, Geva Alon,
JESSE MEADOWS Hanoi’s Weatherdude, An Café, Anupa, Toong, Nguyen Huu Nguyen, Nguyen Thi Thanh Huyen,
Staff Writer Brian Riedlinger, Carlos Dourthe, Uncle Bill’s, Dancenter, Ha Le, Pham Hong Quynh, Pham Thi
On a road trip to Phong Nha, we Tuyet Mai from Naturally Vietnam, Pho Binh, Ly Thi Nhat, Jacko, Billy Gray, Jeremie Courivalt,
stopped on the side of a mountain Raphael Szurek, Vu Thi Chinh, Hung Ben, Banh Mi Bay, Van Ganh Hang, Mau Colour, Emily Petsko,
in the middle of nowhere, and my Sian Kavanagh, Sofitel Saigon Plaza, Social Club — Hotel Des Arts, Caravelle Saigon, Park Hyatt,
friends went off to find food. They Pullman Hotel, Renaissance Riverside Hotel, The Rex Hotel, Huyen Tran, Vi Pham, Club Med, Exo
came back with a Styrofoam box full of
Travel, Don Wills, La Veranda, Matt Dworzanczyk, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, To Thu Phuong,
organs. I accidentally bit into a kidney thinking it was
Hoang Van Truong, Laurel Winter, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Ed Haysom, Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail
a mushroom, and then had a lovely lunch of plain
white rice instead.
House, Dana McNairn, Eduardo Culbeaux, Luoc and Anh from Song Que and David Legard
EMILY PETSKO Word is a registered © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung

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During a recent trip to Danang, a friend may be reproduced in quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của
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I obliged. We found a local street food owners. không được phép sẽ bị xem là
vendor and took a crack at this strange egg vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện
delicacy. After peeling away the shell, I saw a fully- © Word - Duong Huynh hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã
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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

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The the bookseller and
the papaya salad
a day with a street
vendor, and at the
actually gets onto
our table, such is the
Prelude professor — but

they gave a different
flavour to this
opposite extreme, a
five-star hotel chef. We
also talked to industry
enormity of the food
industry that the areas
that could be focused
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC
VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 5
TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS
B
magazine, which pioneers like Jacko from on are limitless.
ack in October perhaps too often the Al Fresco’s group, But we’ve certainly
we ran a cover focuses on all that is Anh Loan, the woman avoided the standard
story called nice, sophisticated and who brought banh mi obsession with only
On the Streets. modern. to the UK, and the the final product, a
The idea was to It was with this lady who is purported preoccupation that
interview those people in mind that we to have invented one these days tends to
who made their living, approached the present of Hanoi’s favourite grip the passions of
as it translates in cover story, Food Stories. street dishes, pho cuon. so many writers and
Vietnamese, o ngoai Once again we wanted We also visited Pho bloggers.
duong, and try to give to get the background Binh, the eatery that in We hope you like the
these people a voice behind the things we the late 1960s became angle we’ve taken in
that would otherwise see every day, except the meeting point for what is now our 101st
OM
.C
AM
not normally be heard. that in this instance a group of comrades issue. And as ever, any
TN
IE
DV
THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS
OR
Not only were the it was food that was planning an uprising. comments, be they
W
stories fascinating — the focus, rather than We haven’t managed good or bad, please
from the flower seller people making a living to cover everything. email me on nick@ THIS MONTH'S COVER
in Hanoi through to off the streets. When you look at wordvietnam.com. — Photo by Trung Del
the beggar in Saigon, To do this we spent how food and drink Nick Ross Design by DH Advertising
Have Your Say

Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or
via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to
hearing from you.
Inbox
Dodgy Expats and for Vietnam. This article
(April 2016, page 158) is egocentric and incredibly
Saigon was a home away
from home for dodgy expats
male centric. — EM
Worst article ever. That BUSINESS BUFF DODGY EXPATS BY SHANE DILLON
when I got there, it was a Gmail thing was true 10 years
ago but nowadays companies
Do you have branch line or two down from
and their reps use Gmail
the FILTH (Failed In London,
any comments Try Hong Kong). all the time. No chamber
This was probably Shane’s membership? Gimme a break.
that you would best article — honest, from the — DS
like to air? If heart, not snipped from the A good concept for an
article with a dumb, self-
World Bank Report 2015.
so, reach out I bet the traffic figures were centred approach. Some
points are amusing, true
and touch good, too. Thereby creating
another dilemma — honest and obvious, the others are
us at nick@ M
ark my words you will see more way to meet some quality expats. Go to a meeting new and better friends, but old
content vs clickbait. Is the just hoity toityness trying dodgy expats in Vietnam in
the coming years as it starts to
become an even easier place to
chamber event — those that are members
in general are far more professional and
legit than those who are not members.
ones figuring out how dodgy they are and
the expat having to move on to the next
bunch of suckers. If someone is best bud-
Daily Mail really the world’s to put down others who are live for foreigners. Over my past 13 years Auscham, BBGV, AmCham, the Singapore dies with a group one week and the worst
wordvietnam.
as an expat and eight years in Vietnam I Business Group, Nordcham, Eurocham, of enemies the next, there is a good chance
have met some of the best and worst of the InCham — all super examples of great there is something dodgy going on.
best website? — PS not being paid by daddy’s expatriate community. Some examples of
the ‘dodgy expat’ include; simultaneous
multiple wives and children; abandoning
business network chambers to join.
@gmail or @hotmail for business.

No Charity Support. If you have been
an expat for any length of time in a devel-
company for a glorified jolly

com — we’re at
long-term girlfriends who become This is by far one of the best ways to spot a oping market, you should get behind at
Awful, AWFUL article. pregnant; ripping off business partners, or

plain old-fashioned dodgy drug dealing.
dodgy expat. It still amazes me that there are
financial services “professionals” who offer
least one charity organization with at least
social support if not financial. Next time
How on earth did this slip to play business in an early This month I have made an easy
checklist of how to spot a dodgy expat.
advice on investment, insurance or property
and yet have no business email account. If
you meet an expat ask them what charity
they support, and get the inside scoop if
your fingertips.
While there may be some exceptions to my the business card has @gmail just turn and they might be dodgy.
through the net? Extremely market. list, in general these are the tell-tale signs
of who you are dealing with. If they hit on
more than three of these be warned: they
run. If it was accurate it would say @dodgy.
Change of Companies. Many expat

Girly Bars. If the expat goes to girly bars
a few nights every week, this means they
ignorant. There are plenty Chambers and charities are probably ‘dodgy’.
No Paperwork. We all know some expats

managers in Vietnam complain about how
quickly Vietnamese change jobs and this is
also a warning sign for expats. If the expat
need to pay people to hang out with them
and pretend they are somewhat interest-
ing while they get drunk. We all know the
of good reasons for many of are not for everyone. Sure who have lived the expatriate lifestyle but
have never had the legal paperwork to
do so. No work permits, no tax code, not
has changed companies every few months
then there is a probably a problem with the
person not the companies. Be warned —
answer already — they’re dodgy.
So the next time someone hands you a
business card and offers you some advice,
the things you mentioned, in we should all help those less registered where they live etc. They come up
with every imaginable reason why it’s better
to fly under the radar, but at the end of the
they could be dodgy.
Change of Social Group. I have met

make a mental check with the above list.
Who knows, it just might save you a lot of
hassle down the road.
fact there are expats here who fortunate and all network, but day the main reason is that they are dodgy.
No Chamber Affiliation. Here is a great

a few expats over my time that change
social/friendship groups on a regular basis.
Over time I have realized it is not them
Shane is an executive director of the
Australian Chamber of Commerce. He can be
contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross.com
meet your ‘dodgy’ criteria we don’t need to be dodgy if

158 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com
doing good for the world we do it your way. — JO

THE TALK LEAD ARTICLE
Smartphones for the People
From iPhones to the cheapest Chinese UMIs,

everyone seems to have a smartphone these days
W
hile only a couple of years ago an iPhone or the latest Samsung Galaxy, and you are
smartphones were the plaything of the wealthy.
rich, or those who wanted to be rich, now Also important is the adoption of the internet and
everyone seems to use them. From market social media. With 43% of the population accessing the
stallholders and motorbike security guards through internet on their phones, this suggests that Vietnamese
to school kids and rural farmers, everywhere you people en masse are buying into the modern world of
look in Vietnam you see smartphones. digital. The possibilities this creates for communication
Statistics published in January on the website, and doing business online in a country with the world’s
wearesocial.sg, put this into perspective. 14th largest population are boundless.
As of January 2016, 93% of adults in Vietnam were
using a mobile phone. Of this, 55% (more than one in A Voice
two people) use a smartphone. What should be the role of the internet in modern-
Out of a population of 93 million people, 39.7 million day life? Should it remain anarchic or libertarian, in
access the internet on their mobile phone and four in the image of its creators, or should it be regulated
five of all internet users are online every day. Of this, and controlled like so many other aspects of the ‘free’
73% of people with smartphones are using social media. modern world? In a country where for so many years
At present, the share of total web views in Vietnam is there has been little public debate, the internet and — in
rising by 40% a year on mobile phones and 4% a year on particular — social media, offer the everyday person a
tablets. chance to express how they feel. And of course, the main
Smartphones are increasingly the preferred method medium for Vietnam is Facebook.
for accessing not just the internet, but social media. The The adoption of Mark Zuckerberg’s brainchild is
fact that 34% of the whole population are using mobile startling. According to a survey by local newspaper
messengers and 29% are watching videos, while 19% Tuoi Tre, by June 2015, Facebook had 30 million users in
are using mobile banking, 28% mobile map services and Vietnam, of whom 27 million people accessed the social
23% are playing games on their mobile is indicative of media website via their smartphone or tablet. Of these
another phenomenon; the smartphone in Vietnam is users, 20 million people were on Facebook daily — 17
being used for almost everything. million via mobile.
Last year there were a number of Facebook campaigns
An Expensive Toy? in opposition to unpopular policies. The highest
Considering that the average salary is around VND3.3 profile was the movement in Hanoi to stop the felling
million a month, Vietnamese people are spending the of 100-year-old French planted trees. It made national
equivalent of one month’s pay to buy even the cheapest headlines and for a few weeks was the talk of Vietnam.
smartphone. To purchase the entry level iPhone 6S, Growing access to the internet fuelled by the widespread
which costs VND12.8 million, this rises to the equivalent use of smartphones played a huge role. Using their
of 3.9 months salary. devices as cameras or video recorders, Facebook
That the everyday Vietnamese is prepared to spend ‘activists’ could go to tree felling sites, and instantly
such a large amount of their income on these devices upload images to social media.
shows how important they are. Smartphones are seen as By owning a smartphone, you not only own a status
status symbols, rather like 20 years ago, when wearing symbol, but also have access to information from all over
gold or a nice watch showed that you had money. If the world, and if used in a certain way, it can give you
you use a smartphone, then you are successful, modern a voice. It’s something that today’s digital generation in
and part of the new Vietnam. You are connected. Use Vietnam are very attuned to. — Nick Ross

Big5
The
Modern
dance, Pete
Tong, a
Ironman,
Ratatat and c
family
theatre.
The top five
events this
month in
Vietnam b
Autarcie industry for more than two decades. Ratatat

1 With an unparalleled ear for new 4
Ben Thanh Theatre, HCMC CAMA ATK, Hanoi
Wednesday, May 4 talent, he is the leading tastemaker Sunday, May 22
of the electronic generation. This will
“It’s all gone Pete Tong.” Get it? Tong is the only DJ in the history of dance music to lend his name to Cockney rhyming slang
For 50 minutes, four dancers using be a once in a lifetime opportunity Ratatat have played in Vietnam
very different performance spaces to see an industry icon up close and twice before, and on both occasions
and techniques, will take to the personal in an intimate setting. they were electric. Now they’re
stage and engage in a frantic ritual Tickets cost VND2 million per back for a show at yet another tiny,
of dance. person and include a free drink. packed-to-the-rafters venue —
This is Autarcie, a French inspired There are also table packages CAMA ATK.
hip-hop, breakdance and popping available. The work of New York duo Mike
show that will be coming to Ho Chi To book, call Mr Sen on 0909 028293. Stroud and Evan Mast this one is
Minh City on Friday May 4. Blanchy’s Tash is at 95 Hai Ba Trung, a must, and with tickets at only
Using the front of stage as the Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 9pm VND250,000 in advance, to miss
rallying point, the four dancers come Ratatat will be like missing out on a
together and devise a warrior dance Ironman Danang trip to the Oscars. Or something like
directed at the audience. 3 Hyatt Regency, Danang that…
Interested? Well, this is the work For more info turn to page 48
French contemporary dance performance, Autarcie, will be playing in Saigon
Sunday, May 8
of lauded French-Vietnamese dancer
and choreographer, Anne Nguyen, It’s too late to enter the second George’s Marvellous
and by all accounts, it could be edition of Ironman in Vietnam, but 5 Medicine
The second installment of Ironman returns to Danang this month
sensational. it’s certainly not too late to come Saigon Outcast, HCMC
Autarcie will be shown at Ben along and watch this spectacle of May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5
Thanh Theatre, 6 Mac Dinh Chi, mind and body over a lot of tropical
Q1, HCMC. Doors are at 7.30pm matter. Dragonfly Theatre will be staging
and tickets cost from VND100,000 Participants will swim, run and their next production, the Roald
to VND450,000. To purchase the cycle a scenic course that begins Dahl classic, George’s Marvellous
tickets, click on ticketbox.vn/event/ with a 1.9km ocean swim in front Medicine, on May 28 and 29, and Jun.
autarcie-60640/34665 of the Hyatt Regency Danang 4 and 5 at Saigon Outcast.
Resort & Spa. From there, athletes The latest in a serious of theatrical
Pete Tong will enjoy a scenic two-loop 90km performances that have wooed the
2 bike course that takes them along audiences of Ho Chi Minh City,
Blanchy’s Tash, HCMC
Thursday, May 5 Danang’s pristine coastline and by this one’s for all the family and will
some of the city’s key landmarks. include a number of interactive
Pete Tong, the legend of dance The final 21km out-and-back elements.
music, is coming to Blanchys Tash run course is flat and passes by Early bird tickets are available
for an exclusive show on Thursday, Danang’s beach resorts before until May 15. So, book your seats
May 5. finishing at the foot of the Marble early and prepare yourself for some
A BBC Radio 1 DJ, Pete has held Mountains. good old family fun.
a commanding presence in the For more info, click on ironman.com For more info turn to page 40
a)
b)
c)
wordvietnam.com | May 2016 Word | 11

Briefings
Hanoi
Hanoi’s
Weatherdude
When you need a weather forecast in Hanoi, there’s only one place to turn
I
n a city where the weather often seems really hang out anymore, and then you Particular Matter
like it’s out to get us, and the forecast have that dun-daaa, opening to the sky.” Though his students don’t know it’s him,
is usually wrong, there is a man who they’ve liked his page, and they follow
keeps watch. Every morning at 5.30, he Good Atmosphere his updates. “It’s a good way to get my
heads to his rooftop to test the air, taking In truth, Hanoi is not an easy city to live humanities students more involved in being
readings with the tools in his modest in when it comes to the weather. But the outside,” he says. “Most of my students
home weather station. When he senses Weatherdude seeks to ease some of our live in apartment buildings, and when the
changes ahead, he takes to the online atmospheric pains. “People trust me sun shines, they close all the blinds. It’s like
world, and tells the people of Hanoi what because I’m real, instead of a computer there’s a new generation of people who are
to expect. Then he buttons up his shirt and that tells them approximate numbers,” he afraid of the sun.”
heads into his day job, no one the wiser. says. After 16 years in Hanoi, he knows “The pollution is really bad [in Hanoi],
He is known on Facebook as Hanoi’s what to expect from the city’s weather but it’s also the geography. It just sticks
Weatherdude. patterns, but “there’s a little bit of luck in between the mountains,” he explains.
“I get lots of messages like, ‘Who are it,” he admits. “There’s a few more particles in the air, and
you, who are you’,” the Weatherdude So who is this dude? A lover of nature; it’s definitely something to worry about,
laughs. I wanted to know, too, so we met in he studied environmental science in but you sometimes get expats that just
Hanoi on a typical grey afternoon. This is university, and worked as a park ranger in complain all the time, and I don’t want to
the boring time of year, he tells me, when Canada. “I lived on the beach as a squatter be that person who’s like, ‘Look, its more
everyone pesters him about the long-lost for a while,” he adds. He came to Vietnam polluted than Beijing!’ It’s not… but it's
sun. as a volunteer with VSO, working in a getting there.”
“Hanoi gets an average of four or five national park in Nghe An province. Though the Weatherdude loves a good
sunny days a month,” he says. “The Then he moved to Hanoi and did what cumulonimbus, he doesn’t want to be doom
sunniest time is coming in May.” most of us do, at some point or another; and gloom about Hanoi all the time.
It’s the constant mist that I hate the most, teach English. Since then, he’s broadened “If you can survive the weather and the
I tell him. “That’s because all the warm air his educational scope, teaching high- heat, and the grey winters and the smog,
is coming in, and the cold air that’s been school classes like Global Perspectives and you can survive the traffic, then you
here all winter is kind of getting pushed out and Environmental Systems and Societies. can live here. Because everything else is
slowly, [so it creates condensation]. Once Weather has always been a hobby for him, awesome.” — Jesse Meadows
it gets hot enough, it sounds simple, but but he started posting his informal forecasts To keep up to date with the weather, click on
it’s true, it burns it off. The humidity can’t to Facebook about three years ago. facebook.com/theweatherdudeinhanoi

“Every morning at 5.30, he heads to his
rooftop to test the air, taking readings
with the tools in his modest home
weather station”
PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Briefings
National
Railway
Goes Suburban
A new railway service gives a much-needed
nod to the commuter
•
PHOTOS BY VU HA KIM VY
I
n 1989, on a return trip to Vietnam, commuters — particularly those from out this new service? And will it help reduce
Vietnam vet Raymond Monsour of town — are badly catered for. The metro congestion? With the number of vehicles on
Scurfield came across his first set of will certainly help at some time in the future, the roads increasing by between 8% percent
traffic lights in the country. “Our sixth but at present you’ve got two options. Drive, and 12% a year, the likely answer to the
day, in three cities, and our first traffic face the traffic and the danger of the roads, latter question is ‘no’. But this pilot scheme
light in Vietnam is here in Hue,” he wrote or take the bus. provides a new and far safer option for
in his work, A Vietnam Trilogy. travelling in and out of the big city, an option
Four years later and Scottish development Saigon to Bien Hoa we can only hope people take advantage of.
worker James Moran arrived in Hanoi. Go to almost any major city in the developed
According to his book, Vietnam in a Changing world and an urban metro system is Heading North
Time: “When we first arrive there are roughly complemented by a suburban rail service. If they do, then it’s possible that Hanoi may
eight traffic lights in the entire city centre of Such is the thought behind the new get the suburban railway service nod as well.
Hanoi yet in our first few weeks we do not expansion of train services between Ho Chi At present the capital has two main railway
see a single accident. By some process of Minh City and Bien Hoa, 30km to the north lines. One travels south towards Ho Chi
give and take, the traffic wends in and out of Vietnam’s largest metropolis. Minh City. The other heads to the Chinese
like spaghetti in perpetual motion.” Created not to make profit but, according border close to Lang Son.
Speak to long-term expats and they to the Vietnamese language website Phap Look at the stations along the way
remember this period — a phase when Luat, “to reduce the congestion in the inner and you can see how this may work. The
there were no taxis or public buses, an era city suburbs of Ho Chi Minh City and the Reunification Line going south could take
before traffic lights where the streets were two adjacent provinces of Binh Duong in seven stations before finishing up at Phu
dominated by bicycles and pre-1975 scooters. and Dong Nai,” the initial fare will be Ly, the main city in Ha Nam. The service to
Twenty-five years later and the VND10,000 for passengers travelling the full Dong Dang on the border could end up at
transportation system in this country is route and VND5,000 for those travelling part Bac Ninh stopping at Long Bien, Gia Lam,
unrecognizable. Traffic lights are the norm, way. In addition, motorcycles and bicycles Yen Vien, Tu Son and Lim en route.
public bus systems — urban, suburban and can be brought on the train free of charge. While residents of the capital may decry
national — are well set up, taxis roam city Calling at six stations — Sai Gon, Go Vap, the possible increase of non-Hanoian
centres and two metro systems are being Binh Trieu, Song Than, Di An and Bien Hoa workers entering the big city, as in Ho Chi
built. — 10 trains a day will run initially between Minh City, this will provide a new option for
Yet, with the country’s major cities Di An in Binh Duong and Sai Gon Station in those struggling with the daily commute in
expanding well beyond their post- District 3. In July it will extend to Bien Hoa. and out of town. And with motorbikes taken
war, urban boundaries, there is a new The full journey will take 55 minutes. off the roads and placed on the train, it’s far
phenomenon; the commuter. As it stands, But two questions remain. Will people use safer, too. — Nick Ross

Briefings
HCMC
The Man From Uncle

As the Uncle Bill’s story shows, doing retail in Vietnam requires flexibility
A
nyone who has visited Uncle Dutz explains: “There is a general usefulness Uncle Bill’s, however, has avoided this
Bill’s will know what an unusual on all of our items.” problem by selling their products not just
shop it is for Vietnam. First is the He adds: “You go [to Uncle Bill’s] and you through having their own stores, but through
price point. This is not bargain will be surprised what you find. So you find other channels including e-commerce,
basement, but the typical cost of the stuff that you’re looking for and you’ll find supermarkets and more recently mediums
products is VND69,000, which is still cheap. things that you don’t even know exist. That’s including TV shopping and mail order
Yet what you find in stock is good quality. what people are telling me.” catalogues. This gives Eckart flexibility, and
Then there is the range. Uncle Bill’s sells a There is another stand-out as well. The ensures that by not needing to have 100
little bit of everything — from kitchen items Vietnamese retail industry is struggling to stores located around Vietnam, he still has the
and giftware through to crafts, stationery, turn a profit. While in Indonesia, modern ability to turn a profit. It’s a recipe for success.
household cleaning products, solar items, trade already accounts for 40% or even 50%
environmentally friendly knives and forks of the market — in Thailand it’s probably A Worldwide Phenomenon
and stuff for the barbecue. Indeed, the 1,900 60% or 70% — in Vietnam it’s still in its Formed in 2002, Uncle Bill’s is a simple but
products are in many ways typical of what infancy. All meaning that the majority of unique Chinese export business — a huge
you may find in Europe, Australia or North the big retail players, most notably the central warehouse with a large range of
America. As man behind the scenes Eckart convenience stores, are operating at a loss. best-selling discount variety products ready

for immediate shipment. By having all the A Growing Market got so many, that’s a big investment in terms
products pre-produced and dispatch-ready, The first outlet was opened in Phu Nhuan. It of money and time.”
this takes away the need for retailers to pay wasn’t effective. So in 2013 he brought Uncle The other is the market itself. It’s untested.
for storage themselves or wait months for Bill’s to Thao Dien in District 2. It was an Prior to products arriving in Vietnam, it’s
new orders. immediate success. Eckart believes there are unclear what will sell and what won’t.
Now serving customers in over 50 two reasons for this. First was the size of the “It’s only when products are imported that
countries, Uncle Bill’s has been one of store — it was larger than the Phu Nhuan we find out what sells and what doesn’t,” he
those Chinese success stories you so often outlet meaning that he could display all his explains. “Category management, building
read about. A few key factors have made it products. More importantly was the clientele, an assortment, having an idea how to
happen. “Western customers who seem to be much promote stuff other than having to discount
“One, it’s really outstanding value for more familiar with our product range”. it, these are all factors that make it difficult.”
money,” explains Eckart. “You get a lot of For some this could be a worry. If you’re Yet Eckart is successfully navigating his
product for not very much money. The second providing goods or services only to the way through the unique conundrum that is
thing is, unlike other Chinese products, Uncle expat market then you’re missing out on doing business in Vietnam.
Bill’s has decent packaging design and this over 90 million customers. Yet as Eckart has “Many things work in our favour,” he
has been steadily improving over the last discovered from selling through supermarkets says. “We are not forced to grow, not forced
couple of years. Third, it’s new to the market. and online, “we are confident that our range is to go in a certain way, not forced to have 20
Uncle Bill’s develops their products and a range that is not solely for western tastes.” stores, not forced to combine Uncle Bill’s
packaging in Australia. So they’re always up Yet despite his brand being proven on the with another 2,000 products. So we can
to date with the latest product trends. That’s local market — last year he even opened a tailor that to what we feel is appropriate at
how we have access to merchandise that is second outlet in Phu My Hung — the nature this point of time and we can just wait until
new on the global market.” of doing business in Vietnam means Eckart things develop.” — Nick Ross
Not surprisingly there have been many needs to constantly adapt. Uncle Bill’s is at 26 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC
takers for Uncle Bill’s. Launched in 2002, One example is import procedures. and 1032 (S12-1) Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
in 2004, the company moved into Australia “There is this fear [in Vietnam] of poor- Hung, Q7, HCMC. Over the next few months
and in 2010 they entered both the US and standard products, especially in relation to Uncle Bill’s will be adding new categories to their
UK markets. Vietnam came during the same food and food preparation,” he says. “So range including toys, furniture, electronics and
year, but it wasn’t until 2013 that Eckart the registration of all the single products is products for Halloween and Christmas. For more
opened the store in Saigon’s District 2. definitely a big hurdle. And because we’ve info click on ubl.vn

The publication of the 2015
BRIEFINGS GUEST COLUMN Provincial Governance and
Public Administration
Making Every Performance Index

provides a unique insight
into the workings of
Voice Count Vietnam. Words by

Dr. Pratibha Mehta
A
few weeks ago I was fascinated
to learn that local authorities
in Danang have harnessed the
power of social media to make
their coastal city cleaner, greener and
more beautiful. People can go online to
report a broken lampost, flooded street or
an illegal landfill. By helping to prioritise
and direct the authority’s response, it has
quickly become a success story for other
cities and provinces to learn from.
Ten years ago, responsive governance
like this would have been almost
unthinkable in Vietnam. However, as
incomes and aspirations have continued to
rise, the relationship between government
and their people has been transformed.
As other countries have found, the more
prosperous and educated citizens are,
the more they expect governments to be
accountable and responsive.
That is why we embarked on a journey
to help improve communication between
local government and its people. In 2009
UNDP Vietnam and its national partners
introduced a pioneering set of metrics to
capture people’s experience in the Provincial
Governance and Public Administration
Performance Index (PAPI). According to
the national press, PAPI came as a breath
of fresh air to push local administration to
reform. By engaging provinces with their
results, not only has it made provincial
leaders think about their performance, but it
has also spurred them into action.
Now in the fifth year of the survey
nationwide, nearly 75,000 citizens have
taken part. As this corresponds exactly
to the last government’s term, not only
does it provide a public score card of its
public administration and local governance
performance, it will set a benchmark for the
new administration going forward.

Causes for Concern Congress took a strong stand on the need to and accountable institutions are a vital
With Vietnam having just gone to the polls step up the fight against corruption. Broad foundation for success in achieving the
to elect a new National Assembly, the release and inclusive participation in the election of Sustainable Development Goals and
of this year’s PAPI report is important and new National Assembly members is a vital delivering on the 2030 Development
timely. For example, it warns that many of step in helping to make this happen. Agenda.
those who depend on public administration Over the past five years we have been As the Party Congress stressed, there
and services the most, including women, greatly encouraged by how national and is a clear need for greater accountability
ethnic minorities, and the less well educated, provincial government authorities have and responsibility of the leaders to control
would have been less likely to vote unless responded to PAPI findings. To date, more corruption. This can only be achieved if all
urgent action is taken. The scores for than 40 provinces have hosted workshops citizens, particularly the most vulnerable,
participation in local level discussions to look more closely at citizen feedback. are fully engaged in this endeavor. Creating
on laws and ordinances and for vertical And over 26 provinces have used PAPI data ‘virtuous circles’ of empowerment between
accountability also dropped this year. Many to design and carry out their action plans, institutional reformers and engaged citizens
interviewed reported feeling disengaged by directives and resolutions to improve their is what PAPI is all about.
the overall political process. And unless they implementation of general governance, Dr. Pratibha Mehta has been UN Resident
are engaged and mobilized, they won’t have administrative procedures and service Coordinator and UNDP Resident Representative
a say. delivery. in Vietnam since 2011. She holds a PhD in
Another major concern this year is a drop Psychology from the University of Gujarat,
in transparency and control of corruption. Engagement and an MSc in Child Development from M.S.
A number of high profile corruption and I believe that PAPI has played a vital role University, Baroda, India. To see the findings and
maladministration cases have been reported in building a performance culture for insights of the 2015 PAPI Report, which covers
at provincial and local levels over the past public administration and public services 63 provinces, click on congbo2015.papi.org.vn/
year. It is encouraging that the recent Party in Vietnam. Good, responsive governance eng and then go to the download menu

Briefings Hanoi Rock City
Hanoi Gets Creative
The much-loved events venue has transformed itself
E
veryone wants to know what’s is stocked at all times with scrap paper,
up with the new Hanoi Rock City. markers and rhinestones, so the revolving
There’s a clothing boutique where door of visitors that come by can have
the couches used to be, and a hand- something to do with their hands.
poke tattoo studio in the corner. Gone is Karen and her partner Lauren Hendin
the half-pipe that nobody used, replaced made everything in the space themselves,
by new tables and benches. Come by in from the shelves to the cushions to the glitter
the daytime and you can sip a coffee, and art that covers the walls. “We’re always just
if you’re lucky, soak up some sunshine. making little things for the shop, and whoever
About a month ago, I was doing just wants to play can play!” says Lauren.
that, throwing tattoo ideas at Karen Labis,
the house’s resident hand-poker. A week Vocational
later, she was stabbing me repeatedly with Next door, 21-year-old Pham Lan Anh also
a needle on the back of my arm. I spent six resides over a space she designed herself,
hours over the course of a few days in her using recycled objects and second-hand
studio, listening as people filtered in and out furniture. She began designing her own
of the room, chatting, drawing, smoking, clothes about a year ago. After friends
and periodically feeding Karen and I started asking about her outfits, she saw a
crackers while she worked. business opportunity, and her clothing line,
The space transformed in a matter of F.lanh, was born.
weeks; artist Dede Guardiola came in every “I didn’t need a big shop,” she says, “but
day, freehand painting a mural so big, it when I came here, I had [one]!” Lan Anh
broke off the walls and bled onto the floor keeps her store open late on the weekends, so
and ceiling. In the centre of the room, a table partyers can browse when the club gets too

hot, and come back during the week to buy. led Cuong Vu, co-investor and coordinator,
Behind the bar during the day is Minh Tu, to bring all these young entrepreneurial
a 23-year-old who used to work at Donkey women together. In recent years, HRC has
Bakery, a company that provides vocational been struggling, with the competition of new
training to people with disabilities. Tu wants music venues opening up across Hanoi, and
to employ this model at HRC’s new coffee a late-night party stigma that limits the kind
bar, now called De’s Cafe, teaching life skills of business they can attract.
that will prepare her deaf staff for future “We understand the process of building a
employment. start-up, so we support them with that, and
Amy Cowan of the Intimate Initiative has in return, they bring us value,” Cuong says.
also found a space for her social enterprise No longer is this just a place to party, but a
here, tucked away in a tiny room by the stairs. creative space where artists can connect.
She’s amassed the bulk of her company’s “Some of my favourite moments are when
information on women’s health, and created you’re just in [the shop], being a creep and
a small enclave where women can come for listening to people talk, and they’re drawing,
PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
consultations, workshops or just to chat. and they’re like, ‘I never get a chance to do
“Having this space makes it a lot easier this!’, or somebody says, ‘I met this really
for us to gradually familiarise people with cool person here the other day, and now
the topic. You can come here for coffee, you we’re in a band together’,” says Karen.
can browse the shop, and then just kind of “I like that it’s a girl power group,
meander [over] and have a read,” she says. powerful women coming together and doing
things they want to do, because they can,”
Competition says Lauren. “It’s all possible.” — Jesse
It was a symbiotic business solution that Meadows

Briefings
HCMC
PHOTO BY MUPER

Geva Alon
On Jun. 9 and Jun. 10, three of Israel’s top Indie
rock musicians will be playing in Saigon
“I
was doing a gig in Oslo and we a year, and is a household name in his
posted some photos,” recalls folk native Israel. Yet this will be his first time
rock singer-songwriter, Geva in Vietnam.
Alon. “Someone commented “I’m coming to Vietnam with a band
on one of the photos on Facebook, ‘Why that’s kind of new,” he says. “We’ve been
don’t you come to Saigon and play for us working together for the past few months
as well?’ and I just answered, ‘If you put a and it’s a trio — me on guitar, a bass guitar
gig together, I will come’.” and a drummer. [Most of what] you’re
The person who made the comment was going to hear has been written together
Doron Shachar, a long-term Israeli resident by the three of us. I’m also going to add a
of Vietnam. A few weeks later he came up few songs from my past that will probably
with a proposition. be a mix of acoustic and electric stuff. But
“I’ve lived in Vietnam for many years,” because no-one has really heard what I’m
explained Doron to his fellow Israeli. doing, I’m free to do whatever I want as
“I love music and I really want to start opposed to playing our back catalogue.”
bringing bands that I love to Vietnam
because no-one ever comes here.” The Israel Factor
The critically acclaimed musician’s With the Israel-Palestine conflict often
response was positive, and from Jun. 9 making headline news, ever since 9/11,
to Jun. 11, the guitarist and singer often Israel has struggled with its image in
compared to Neil Young will be playing in the eyes of the wider world. Naturally it
Saigon with his newly formed band, Vegan affects its citizens and as Geva admits, he’s
Friendly. often asked about the issues faced by these
two nations.
A Celebrated Career “It’s a really complex issue,” he says.
That the majority of Geva’s work is in “Usually when I get into these kind of
English may come as a surprise — his conversations, I say to people, ‘Listen,
native tongue is Hebrew — but for Geva, you’re talking to me right now, that’s
composing and singing in his second Israel, not what you see on TV or what you
language is natural. read in the newspapers. It’s two entirely
“Pretty much 99% of the music I listened different worlds’.”
to as a kid, as a growing teenager, was in He adds: “I can’t blame people who
English,” he says. “So when I started to think terrible things about Israel after what
write songs and play guitar, I wanted to they feed them on television and on the
do that, to be like those guys. So I started news; they only see horrible stuff. Then
to write in English, got deeper and deeper again, I’m going out there in the world,
into it, and it just became something that and I show people the real things that are
I do.” in Israel — people who are creative and
Influenced by a range of styles — kind, care nothing about conflicts and
anything from rock ‘n roll, classic rock, wars. I have Arab friends and Palestinian
grunge, New Wave, blues and Americana friends. I grew up next to Palestinians and
— the resulting sound, says Geva “is we got along great. I go eat in their villages
pretty much a melting pot of all those all the time, and vice versa. I’m building
things together.” It was a sound that a house at the moment and I’m using a
enabled him to launch his career back in Palestinian contractor. That’s the real Israel
2000 as the founding member of indie rock to me. That’s what I try to tell people.”
trio, The Flying Baby. Geva Alon’s Vegan Friendly band is made
He has since garnered critical acclaim up of Geva Alon on guitars and vocal, Jango
as both a solo artist — much of his work is on bass and vocals, and Assaf Riess on drums.
acoustic. His many collaborations, and has They will be playing at Saigon Ranger on
worked extensively with famed producer Thursday Jun. 9 and Friday Jun. 10. Tickets
Thom Monahan (Devendra Banhart, are available on ticketbox.vn (VND200,000
Vetiver, Silver Jews, Dinosaur Jr, Jayhawks). for early birds or normal price, VND250,000).
He has toured with Macy Gray and Paul Entrance includes a free drink. To listen to
Weller, has played all over Europe and his music, do a search on YouTube for Geva
North America, touring up to seven times Alon

Briefings Carmen
HCMC A unique French-Vietnamese opera collaboration
comes to Vietnam
O
n Jul. 1 and Jul. 2, the most triangle that forms between her, the soldier
unusual operatic performance Don José and the toreador Escamillo, to this
to grace Vietnam will play day Carmen is the most-performed opera
for two nights at the Ho Chi in the world. It is also probably the best
Minh City Opera House. Pitting French known. As the man with the idea for the
musicians and actors together with collaboration, violinist Nguyen Huu Nguyen
their counterparts from Vietnam, this explains, “The story can be understood by
will be the first genuine international all, no matter in which language it is sung,
collaboration of its kind seen in this and the arias are already favourites.”
country. We speak to four of the key players
Telling George Bizet’s tragedy of the behind what will be a unique, one-of-a-kind
Spanish gypsy, Carmen, and the love production.
Nguyen Huu Nguyen in France and Vietnam, this gave a different without fear of the consequences. She is full
Orchestra Lead colour to our ensemble. of self-confidence and wants to be in control
France / Vietnam of her fate, even until her death. Eventually
How did you come up for the idea of this How important is it to bring opera to she dies because she refuses to acquiesce to
collaboration? And why Carmen? Vietnam? the desires of Don José. As an opera singer,
After a concert organised with Lys Events Opera has been brought before to Vietnam. it is very exciting to play the role of such a
in 2014, we wanted to create something Vietnamese musicians and lyrical singers charming woman.
more ambitious and we thought, why are already trained and some of them are
not Carmen? I love the idea of bringing familiar with Carmen. It makes the process How difficult is her role to play?
the French music I know so well to a much easier. I hope the audience will like it I consider myself to be a passionate,
Vietnamese audience. And I also enjoy enough for us to create new opportunities independent woman. Which, in a way,
being able to do so with the French for cooperation. should make it relatively easy for me
National Orchestra. We couldn’t have to embrace the role of Carmen. Mezzo-
asked for a better Carmen than Thanh Nguyen Thi Thanh Huyen sopranos like me traditionally sing
Huyen. Carmen secondary roles in operas; Carmen is a
Vietnam notable exception.
When did the collaboration start? What do you like most about Carmen, the
The project started one year ago. We character? Why do you think bringing Carmen to
worked on finding the right artistic and Carmen is a strong, courageous and Vietnam is good for local audiences?
stage director, the right conductor, the right independent woman. For centuries, women Vietnamese society is still very traditional,
soloists for each role and, obviously, the have been dominated by men. Carmen largely dominated by men. However
right orchestra members. With them being breaks these rules, she takes back the power, Vietnamese women, just like Carmen, are

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
Images from a recent rehearsal of Carmen
famous for being full of passion, for being a more believable perspective and make the What are you expecting from the project?
emotional and seductive. Women are characters seem more real and human. Hurdles! They inspire me and give me
considered the backbone of family and society. wings! I think it is a beautiful challenge
Vietnam had to fight for its independence for How does your role as stage director differ for me to interpret Carmen with both
centuries. Vietnamese people strove to be in to previous roles you’ve had in musical and Vietnamese and French artists on the
control of their fate and paid the high price operatic performances in Vietnam? same stage. It will bring an exotic touch
for freedom, just as Carmen does. I think the The main difference is that this time I do not to a musical creation that is breathtaking:
Vietnamese audience will be greatly inspired have to perform in the show as well. I can through the colours, the vivacity, the
by this opera. concentrate all of my efforts on directing. intensity, the emotions and the tragedy,
This means that I can see everything from the which is an essential part of the work.
Brian Riedlinger audience’s perspective and thus have a better
Stage Director idea of how everything will be perceived. What obstacles do you expect to
USA / Vietnam encounter?
You’ve been working in Vietnam for years. Carlos Dourthe I think that the main obstacle [will be] the
How does this present project differ Conductor differences that can be found between both
from previous musical projects you’ve France schools. But I am confident that thanks to
undertaken? Will this be your first work in Vietnam? these differences, we will create something
This production is an opera, and I have It will be my first visit and first musical vibrant and unique.
never directed an opera before. I have collaboration in Vietnam. In my opinion, this Ticket info for Carmen will be available
directed several Broadway musicals and particular musical work by Bizet is one of closer to the performance. For more info on the
stage plays, but opera is really quite the most representative and imaginative that production and ticketing, please email Thai Tu
different. I am trying to approach this from French opera has ever known. Tho on tutho@lysevents.com

Briefings
HCMC
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
An Café Expansion
A garden restaurant in District 2 creates a unique space for retail
W
hen I pulled up to An Café on District 2, but it has finally found a Thao with these wonderful businesses to create a
a swelteringly hot afternoon, Dien home at An Café. The shop is filled unique space for District 2.”
I had no idea that the rustic, with classic, elegant pieces that make up the On the horizon are a host of events at
tropically-styled, Indochine Anupa Collection — one-of-a-kind leather An Café including wine tastings, seafood
restaurant had evolved as much as it has. accessories, jewellery, linen dresses — as well evenings and live music, as well as other
Since the development finished in March as the sandals of Simone Irani, Pepite-a-moi ideas still in the works. Anupa, for example,
2016, An Café is now home to Anupa children’s clothing, and Chichi World linen will host monthly events by hand picking
Eco-Boutique, Diabolo Furniture Store clothing for men and women. This is wearable designers exclusive to her District 2 store. In
and Asian Hideaways Photo Gallery, art all created with a love of Vietnam. April it will be Cashmere Crush, a clothing
providing not just an appealing, leafy “There is so much high-quality production line made from fine cashmere suitable for
destination to have a meal or ca phe sua da, in [this country] right now,” explains the tropical climate. And expect the space to
but also a retail experience. Anupa. “We are all about keeping our shop mature beyond its initial new look.
Serving up beautifully presented, authentic stocked with quality designs you won’t find An Café is no longer just an attractive
Vietnamese cuisine, food prices at An Café are anywhere else.” restaurant and café with open air seating,
kind on the wallet. The motif pulsing through colonial-style ceiling fans, tropical flora and
the entire space is Vietnam — whether it Ambience local cuisine made with quality ingredients.
is the food prepared, the images in the art A key element of the change is the It has expanded, grown up, and added
gallery, or the products available to buy. atmosphere. Here it is relaxed and something called ‘lifestyle’. A place to go to
“What we are offering is not just made in comfortable. This is reflected in the clientele, escape the chaos of Saigon, now you can get
Vietnam,” remarks Anupa Horvil, the designer many of who are working or meeting; some a shopping experience thrown in as well. —
and face behind fashion accessories boutique, are just enjoying their afternoon. Sian Kavanagh
Anupa. “We’re about paying attention to all “Many customers comment on the oasis- An Café is at 10 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC.
the details and keeping it authentic.” like relaxing atmosphere, food quality and For further info on An Café, click on An facebook.
The Anupa brand has existed for a decade, originality of the space,” says Wieger Otter, com/ancafesaigon. To find out more about Anupa
with a full-blown retail outlet on Dong Du co-owner of An Café. “We had too much Boutique go to anupa.net/boutique-shopping-in-
in District 1 and a pop-up shop around land initially and it has been great working Vietnam

Briefings
Hanoi
The Bee Hive
Coworking spaces in Hanoi take on a new flavour
T
oong coworking space feels more Vietnamese for beehive, to ong, squished bi-weekly “morning coffee” sessions, more
like a spa than an office. Their together and with the accents removed. intimate gatherings for members to share
new location in a hotel complex at It meshes perfectly with their goal; to ideas and help each other.
the end of To Ngoc Van is striking help entrepreneurs and enterprises from
for its tranquillity. Tall trees wave at you diverse areas connect and work together A Fast Expansion
as you walk from the parking lot into a in a productive community. While many The company has another branch on Trang
softly lit room where koi swim in a wall coworking spaces target young startups, Thi, which opened last September. The To
length fountain. Up a spiral staircase Toong attracts more established businesses Ngoc Van location opened in March, and
is the workspace, which opens out to a in different fields; it provides them with Toong plans to expand to Ho Chi Minh City
bright, wide loft with beautifully designed a place to work, and to network and find sometime this year. The Tay Ho spot was
furniture and lighting, glass walls, and a partners, investors, or innovators. To this chosen for its large, attractive space, as well
vast painting of lotus flowers mirroring end, Toong hosts many events every week as its proximity to expat neighbourhoods in
the lotus-laden view of West Lake. for members and non-members alike, the upscale West Lake area.
Ly, a member of the team at Toong, as well as training workshops on topics I had a chance to speak to one of
shows me around. The company’s name is like fundraising and PR. They also host Toong’s co-founders, Giang, who told me

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
that Toong started when she and Duong, as she says the loft-style room is unusual benefits including lockers, discounted use
the current CEO and other co-founder in vertical Vietnamese buildings — it of the conference room, and longer access
of the company, were talking business reminded her of coworking spaces back hours. Individuals can rent out pretty
at Starbucks. They realised they needed home in Belarus. Although Tanya has glass-walled offices overlooking West
a place to meet like-minded people in a not yet had a chance to network with the Lake, while companies can rent larger
better setting than the busy coffee shop, other members, she told me that she was rooms with multiple desks.
and they knew about the success and looking for a space to think, plan and meet Setting itself apart from other
rapid growth of coworking spaces like people. Toong was a perfect fit. coworking spots cropping up all over
WeWork in New York. The company currently offers a variety Hanoi, Toong is an expanse of luxury and
of packages, including a ‘day tripper’ or calm. Much like the beehive from which
A European Environment one-day-only membership for VND90,000, it draws its name, it is a place where
Event organiser Tanya, from Minsk, has and a 40-hour ‘tourist’ package at workers can come together to flourish. —
been a member at Toong for one month. VND550,000. Various monthly packages Kate Robinson
She was initially drawn to its beautifully include a regular ‘hot desk’ option, or Toong in West Lake is at 98 To Ngoc Van,
designed space and relaxing atmosphere, options for a dedicated desk and other Tay Ho. For more info click on toong.com.vn

Briefings Live to Dance
HCMC Every year Dancenter puts on a huge performance to showcase the
work of its students. This year it’s called Imagine
W
hen French-Vietnamese dance Rateau. “But the most exciting time for all of comes reaching the zenith of any profession
instructor Linh Rateau co- us is when we are on stage as we can share or discipline, and the fact that John Huy Tran
founded Dancenter in 2007, [our work] with the audience.” is now being cited as an inspiration is not
few could have imagined that She adds: “Our goal is to offer high- only a commendation to his own work, but
almost a decade later the annual dance quality entertainment to our audience with to the work of Dancenter where he has been
performances put on by her performing arts beautiful costumes, professional lighting and an instructor for many years. Likewise, the
centre would be such a huge event. That a great variety in the programme through annual show is also a source of inspiration
they manage to draw in an audience of 1,600 music and [different] dance styles.” for not only its participants, but the audience
people, including not only family members as well. This is echoed by Linh.
and aspiring dancers, but the general public Inspiration “We chose the title Imagine because we
as well, is a testament to the success of a Presented by Dancenter’s teenagers hope the audience will be inspired by the
school that boasts well-known instructors and adult, amateur students as well as music, costumes, movements, expressions
and both professional and amateur dancers the centre’s professional dance troupe, and passion of our dancers,” she explains. “As
aged from four years old and up. Urban Dance Group, Imagine has been performers, dancing allows us to pretend to
Now in its ninth year, this year’s show choreographed by experienced professionals be whoever we want to be, to explore different
on Saturday, Jun. 4 and Sunday, Jun. 5 at coming from as far afield as France, Canada, worlds, to imagine a situation sometimes
the Youth Cultural House on Pham Ngoc Denmark and Vietnam. Among them is John based on our own experiences or sometimes
Thach will be no different. Entitled Imagine, Huy Tran who is a professional judge and based on pure fiction. Dancing gives us the
and with the dancers performing a range dance advisor for well-known Vietnamese freedom to be anyone, anything at any time.”
of styles, from jazz and ballet to hip hop, TV shows including So You Think You Can Imagine will be performed on Saturday, Jun. 4
tap, flamenco, belly dance and high heels, Dance Vietnam, Vietnam Idol and Vietnam’s Got at 7.30pm and Sunday, Jun. 5 at 3pm at Nha Van
the performance will bring together more Talent. So well known has he become that on Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural House), 4 Pham
than 200 dancers, from 12 years old to over a recent episode of the TV game show, Nguoi Ngoc Thach, Q1, HCMC. Tickets are available
50, amateurs and professionals, locals and Bi An, when a 12-year-old semi-professional by emailing reservations@dancentervn.com,
expats, all sharing the same passion. hip hop dancer was asked who his hero was, calling (08) 3519 4490 or online via ticketbox.
“We practice in the studio in front of his answer was “John Huy Tran”. vn. Tickets cost VND150,000, VND200,000 and
the mirror to correct ourselves,” says Linh Aspirations play a huge role when it VND250,000

Briefings
HCMC
Songkran Madness
This year’s celebration of Thailand’s Water Festival in Saigon was hell.
Words by Jon Aspin
W
hen the biggest consequence er, dry. Tactics and Lots of Water
of war is a face full of H2O, “What’s your game plan?” I asked Resembling a kind of aquatic orgy in the
it’s no surprise that people’s Henrike from Holland when I bumped into middle of the city, icy-cold money-shots
loyalty becomes questionable. her. “No idea,” she screamed above the from brightly-coloured super-soakers were
Arriving late at Saigon Outcast’s Get Wet crowd, “anybody who’s dry is a target!” being fired in all directions by the time I
Water and Music festival at the Youth “Has anyone stood out in battle?” I asked arrived. The only strategy seemed to be
Cultural House in District 1, it was clear Mike from the US. “I don’t know,” he ‘engage your enemy’, anticipate retaliation,
that a battle of sorts had taken place. shouted, “but there is a girl over there and then brace for an all-out exchange of
However, who was winning, or if that wearing a Captain America uniform, you water-based fun.
even mattered, wasn’t quite so cut and, should go and ask her!” Clearly there was a damp grey line

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
between enemies and friends, so I wasn’t my composure. last look at the scene. Brightened up by
sure how to react when my own editorial Soon however, as bass-heavy music one giant inflatable castle-cum-water slide,
manager let loose on me with the full force began to pump, and while water bomb what looked like a drenching pool in the
of the water ‘law’. grenades ‘rained’ in all around me, second middle, several wading pools, and of
Sopping wet, and promising to get mojito-in-hand, I realised that there was all things a mechanical bull, this festival
this article in on time, I hunkered down, no escape and that before I ended up in a was everything and nothing that I had
then bravely strafed through the random watery grave, I had to wave the white flag expected.
jets that criss-crossed the battlefield. and leave. Songkran, you may have beaten me
Embedding myself with some other Casualties strewn around the this year, but I’ll be back, maybe. — Jon
shelter-seeking survivors, I tried to regain apocalyptic car park location, I took one Aspin

Sports
Digest Dance, Baby, Dance
The annual Vietnam University Games (VUG) competition is heating up
the dancefloors at both ends of the country. Harry Hodge has more
S
o you think you can Creativity, Technique, Teamwork, groups will advance through the
dance? We’ll see what Ha (and) Style. We announce our own quarter-final, semi-final and final
Le says about that! winner by pointing towards them. rounds to determine the champion.
Le is one of the judges The school team with two-thirds or all “Establishing a dance team for
at this year’s Vietnam University votes from the judges wins the battle.” VUG is really hard,” says Pham Hong
Games (VUG) competition in the According to the rules, each team Quynh, a dancer from the Diplomatic
dance battle category, with schools has from eight to 12 members. Each Academy of Vietnam in Hanoi. “We
from around the country vying for dance battle game consists of two have to gather enough members, find
dancefloor supremacy. teams, and each team performs a regular training venue and schedule
“We see the team as a whole, we see three rounds in turn. In the VUG for at least two months prior to the
the movement of one dancer related 2016 competition in Hanoi and Ho competition.
to his or her teammates,” says Ha Chi Minh City, the dance battle “We stand for the whole school of
Le, who judged the 2014 and 2015 competition will include 16 teams over 3,000 students in this competition
versions of the event. “Each of us from four groups. After the group (VUG). A simple win shows that my
then gives points in four categories: stage, the eight best teams from those school is better than your school, and

Hanoi to Host 2021 SEA The 14-year-old girl won
Games the medal in the individual
The Southeast Asian Games women’s age group 12-14
will once again return to after getting a total of 18.975
Hanoi in 2021, after an points.
18-year-long hiatus, following Kanon Miyajima of Japan
formal acceptance of the finished second with 18.850
offer to host the games by the points, followed by Vietnam’s
Hanoi Municipal People’s Vu Ngoc Anh with 18.825
Committee. points.
After Ho Chi Minh City On the same day,
bowed out of the running, Vietnamese gymnasts
the Ministry of Culture, won three silver medals,
Sports and Tourism (MOCST) including Bui Minh Phuong
offered Hanoi the opportunity in the under 18 women’s
to host the games, to be held individuals, Phan Nguyen
from November to December Gia Hien in the under 18
2021. men’s individuals, and Dao
In announcing the Hai Giang, Phan Nguyen Gia
agreement, Vuong Bich Hien and Bui Minh Phuong
Thang of the MOCST said it in the trio category.
was his understanding that
Haiphong, Bac Ninh, Hai Swimmer Snags
Duong and Nam Dinh will Sponsorship in
also participate in organising Olympic bid
the event. Swimmer Nguyen Diep
Having previously been Phuong Tram has won a
home to the Games in 2003, large sponsorship deal worth
Hanoi’s second time around VND18 billion (US$800,000)
is especially significant, as to help her secure an Olympic
it presents the city with the berth, according to Vietnam
perfect opportunity to put its News.
best face forward and show The money, one of the
the world its true cultural largest sponsorship deals
identity. in this country, will be
An estimated 11 countries distributed over nine years
will feature in 36 sports and for her training at local and
402 events at the 31st SEA international destinations,
Games, which could draw as well as international
an estimated 13,000 sports competitions.
enthusiasts from all parts of It’s hoped that Tram will
the globe. win at least one gold medal at
the regional Southeast Asian
Rowing Their Way to Games in 2017 in Malaysia.
Glory Tram and her coach Vo
Hanoi dominated the Thi My Trang will fly to the
National Rowing Club United States in June for a
Championships that ended three-month course at the
in Danang on Apr. 4, writes Pleasanton Seahawks Club
Vietnam News. in California. Coach Trang
The players from the will be Tram’s manager,
capital won 11 gold and four while American experts will
bronze medals to top the take charge of her technical
rankings table. Hai Duong training. Tram will compete
were in second place, winning in the Southeast Asian
four titles, followed by Swimming Championships in
Danang with one title. The Hanoi in May.
a champion title shows that my VUG also features a futsal championships saw more
school is the best.” competition, with regional than 100 rowers from 14 cities
According to Quynh, the tournaments in Hanoi, Da Nang and provinces competing in
s
date
reason VUG stands out from other and Ho Chi Minh City, with finals 18 events.
university sports competitions is in Ho Chi Minh City this month
d up r
that it creates a real sense of school as well. FPT University is Hanoi’s Vietnamese Gymnasts Sen out you p or
spirit. defending champion, IUH (Ho Clean Up in Tokyo ab g grou @
in ry
sportnt to har .com
The Dance Battles will crown Chi Minh University of Industry) Ha Vi secured a gold
a champion for Hanoi on May 8, is the southern city champ, Duy medal at the International
and another for Ho Chi Minh City Tan University captured the Gymnastics Federation’s
eve vietnam
word
on May 15. Defending champions Danang title last year. IUH was 2016 Aerobic Gymnastics
from last year’s event include the national champion in 2015. World Championships, also
Thang Long University in Hanoi For more information, visit the known as the Suzuki World
and Ton Duc Thang University in VUG Facebook page for updates and Cup 2016, held in Tokyo last
Ho Chi Minh City. results. month.

ToDo
list HCMC Merci in May
Merci Nail Spa and Bistro, Q1
Weekdays in May
Fundraisers, Merci Nail Spa and Bistor has a great

story behind it and is one of those
underground well-kept secrets that once you’ve
1
tried it, will undoubtedly have
German DJs, you telling your friends and going
back again. Now, there’s even more 2
network- reason to go because they’ve added
ing events, nightly happy hours on food and
drink. The details were a bit scant
George’s but it’s on weekdays from 5pm to
7pm and includes The Bistro Menu,
Marvellous which you can get over two courses
(VND180,000) or three (VND220,000).
Medicine and They’ve also decided to throw out a
a marathon group booking discount of 15 percent
when you turn up in a group of four
for one of their awesome manicures
or pedicures. What a concept: great
food and drinks while someone
makes sure your hands are feet are
looking their best! Merci.
Merci is at 17/A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, a b
HCMC and is open from Tuesday to
Sunday, 9am to 9pm building on Ton That Dam, Snuffbox to function as public platforms for
is the newest late night venue in communal exchanges and connection.
Vin Gallery Spring Collection Saigon that has everybody talking, The theme for this first incarnation of
2016 presenting a speakeasy vibe and some Livinwondr in Vietnam is ‘Stars in Our
Vin Gallery, Q2 of the best drinks in town. So go shake Eyes: Creating a Sense of Place’.
Throughout May your tail feather at Shimmy Shimmy Galerie Quynh is on Level 2, 151/3
Coco Pop on May 6, and you might Dong Khoi Q1, HCMC. The opening
Vin Gallery’s 2016 Spring Collection just win a prize. DJs Superkid and Stu reception will take place on Friday
includes a selection of works from Pot will be selecting on the night. May 6 between 6pm and 9pm and the
Endless River by Karine Guillerman Yama will be one of the works displayed at Vin Gallery this month
national and international artists Entrance is free for this event which exhibition will run until May 14. For
currently represented by the gallery. starts at 10pm and goes on ‘til late. enquiries please contact Celine Alexandre
International works include two Snuffbox is at 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, on celine@galeriequynh.com or call (08)
Mads Monsen will be exhibiting a selection of works at Asian Hideaways Gallery this month
pieces by Japanese Op-artist Yohei HCMC 3824 8284

Yama, who creates large-scale intricate
works on canvas, and explorations Livinwondr ARC Fundraiser
into colour and form by Australian Galerie Quynh, Q1 Thao Dien Coffee, Q2
and German artists Will Whitehouse May 6 to May 14 Thursday, May 12
Berlin-based DJ Avalon Emerson will be playing at Observatory this month
and Juergen Buhre respectively.

Adoration by Juergen Buhre. One of the works on show at Vin Gallery
National artworks on show include a Galerie Quynh is launching a ARC Pets are teaming up with
piece by Doan Xuan Tang, fresh from community-art project Livinwondr, Relocation Vietnam to put on a
The ARC Fundraiser in May will help raise money to rescue pets
his Tho Cam II solo exhibition at the curated by Vietnamese artist Hung business networking fundraiser and
Livnwondr at Galerie Quynh is a community created art project
Merci Nail Spa and Bistor is ramping up the deals this month
gallery, and some of the portraiture Viet Tran. in the process raise money for ARC
work of Doan Hoang Lam. Comprising a sculptural structure Pet Rescue.
Vin Gallery is at 6 Le Van Mien, made up of stainless-steel tubes Including a free flow of wine
Q2, HCMC. For enquiries contact the that can be arranged in various and beer from 7pm to 9pm, as
gallery on 0907 729846 or hit them up ways, Livinwondr is an interactive well as finger food such as mini
on facebook fb.com/VinGallery project, “taking on configurational burgers, pintxos and vegan sushi
transformations in direct response to rolls, the other aim of the event is
Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop public surroundings”. to help introduce ARC clients to
Snuffbox, Q1 According to the press professionals and to help integrate
Friday, May 6 release, “A manifestation of the them into life here, make key
interconnectedness of our modern business partnerships, allow people
Get down to some 1950s and 1960s world, for each Livinwondr project, any to meet and to make new friends.
beats at the Rock ‘n’ Roll Motown member of the (global) population can As part of the event there will
dance party at Snuffbox. Dress to contribute, via an online platform, their be a raffle including prizes such
impress at the cool new District 1 artistic interpretation of the theme.” as a second hand electric scooter,
venue and you could find yourself a A variety of well-known local a National Gallery painting worth
hero of the next week’s social pics. artists have already contributed, and US$1,000 and a ‘Dine out for a Year’
b
2.a
Hidden in a semi-dilapidated old once finished, the pieces are said deal which will give the winner a meal
4.
6.
3.
5.
1.

for two at a nice restaurant as well as a
bottle of wine, every month for a year.
But ultimately the goal is to raise
US$20,000 for ARC to help them
continue their work with rescued
street pets.
Thao Dien Coffee is at 38 Tran Ngoc
Dien, Q2, HCMC. The ticket price
is VND700,000 and tickets can be
purchased on Ticketbox by clicking on
ticketbox.vn/event/arc-pets-business-
networking-fundraiser-60662/34762. For
3
further information, go to arcpets.com
Avalon Emerson
The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, May 14
Berlin-based production and DJ

powerhouse Avalon Emerson has
some truly impressive releases under
her belt. Expect her to bring her on
brand of raw electronic fire to the
floor. Support comes from Cora.
Doors open at 9pm and entrance is
free before 10pm. After that, ticket price
is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Selected Works
Asian Hideaways Gallery, Q2
4
From May 15
Asian Hideaways Gallery opened

5
on Mar. 25 this year and is run by
four photographers: Yan Level, Pop
Vichaya, Sylvain Marcelle and JP.
As part of the gallery, they have
a wall space set aside for small
exhibitions by photographers, and first
out is Mads Monsen, with his show,
Selected Works. As the name implies,
6 the exhibition consists of photographs
captured around Vietnam. Living in
Vietnam since 2000, Mads took an
apprenticeship with a commercial
photography studio in Bergen
Norway, before graduating from Saint
Martin’s College of Art in London,
UK. He is also presently the Creative
Director of Word Vietnam.
Some of Mads’ work is available
online at omcollectionstore.com. There

ToDo
is also a new collection at Saatchi Art,
saatchiart.com/madsmonsen. Mads will
exhibit from the middle of May until
the end of June.
Asian Hideaways Gallery is located at
8 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, HCMC
list HCMC Nick Monaco

The Observatory, Q4
Saturday, May 21
After a fantastic Thursday

performance last year, Nick Monaco
returns with his highly unique and
exotic approach to dance music for
a highlight night on the calendar.
Support comes from Observatory
house DJ, Nic Ford.
Doors open at 9pm and entrance is 1
free before 10pm. After that, ticket price
is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Network Girls
Merci Nails, Q1
Thursday, May 26
Those network girls know how to

party and network. Best thing, though,
is they know how to pick a venue. So
if you like a bit of pampering mixed
with some serious social networking,
you’ll be pleased to know that their
monthly event for May is being held
at Merci Nails, where they are giving
guests the chance to indulge in nail 2
treatments, foot and hand massages,
finger food and free-flow wine.
Network Girls is a monthly
networking event at venues in Ho
Chi Minh City that gives expat and
local female working professionals in
Saigon a channel to meet each other
Last time out in Phu Quoc it was a half marathon. This year the organisers are going the whole hog
and exchange ideas on life in the city,

employment and business.
Members of Network Girls usually
meet on the last Thursday of every
month for breakfast (7.30am to 9am) or
Roald Dahl’s works are timeless. At the end of this month you’ll be able to see why
cocktails and canapés (6.30pm to 9pm).

The May edition will be in the evening.
Merci Nails is at 17/A6 Le Thanh
Ton, Q1, HCMC and the event costs 3
VND500,000. To confirm your
This month Network Girls rocks up at Merci Nail Salon and Bistro
Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel, coming soon to a place near you
attendance, please RSVP to Van Ly at

networkgirlshcmc@gmail.com or find George’s Marvellous Medicine In short, food and fun for all the
Images from the 2015 edition of the Saigon Summer Ball
them on Facebook: NetworkGirlsHCMC Saigon Outcast, Q2 family.

All performances start at 4pm and
Nick Monaco is back! And guess where? Observatory
May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5

Sierra Sam and Pascal Hetzel tickets are available at Kepi (63 Thao Dien,
The Observatory, Q4 Dragonfly Theatre will be staging Q2, HCMC) or at ticketbox.vn. Early bird
Friday, May 27 their next production, the Roald Dahl prices are VND300,000 (until May 15)
classic, George’s Marvellous Medicine, and VND350,000 thereafter. Under-threes
Two massive names out of the on May 28 and 29, and Jun. 4 and 5. go for free. Saigon Outcast is at 188
European electronic sound world George’s nasty old grandma Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC
with releases on top shelf labels will needs teaching a lesson, and he
be combining live performance with a decides the best remedy is a special Saigon Summer Ball
DJ set in a full-on audio feast. Support homemade medicine. What follows Park Hyatt Hotel, Q1
comes from Observatory house DJ, from there will only be discovered Saturday, Jun. 4
Nic Ford. This is one not to miss. if you come to the play, which
Doors open at 9pm and entrance is means an afternoon of interactive To celebrate midsummer and
free before 10pm. After that, ticket price theatre, a barbecue, a climbing wall, escape for an evening the hustle and
is VND150,000. The Observatory is at 5 a Kepi stall and a chance to make bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, Saigon
Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC your own Magic Medicine drink. Children’s Charity is holding its
4.
6.
2.
3.
5.
1.

7th Annual Saigon Summer Ball on
Saturday, Jun. 4.
Held to raise important funds
for their work with disadvantaged
children, since its inception in 2009,
the Saigon Children’s Charity Summer
Ball has raised almost US$370,000 to
support their work in Vietnam, with
thousands of distinguished guests, both
individual and from many different
companies, taking part over that time.
Bringing together many key
people from both the international
and Vietnamese social and business
worlds, the event is designed to be a
night of great celebration and style,
with the added benefit of raising much
needed funds. Tickets are already
4 selling fast so to avoid disappointment,
the organisers encourage you to book
your table as soon as possible.
5 For ticket bookings, please email
saigonsummerball@saigonchildren.com
or call 0901 393502 or (08) 3930 3502.
Tickets are priced at VND3,800,000 per
person or VND38 million for a table of 10
Phu Quoc International

Marathon
Phu Quoc Island
Saturday, Jun. 11
Registration is now open for the

inaugural Phu Quoc International
Marathon to be held on Saturday, Jun.
11 on Phu Quoc Island.
Tagged the ‘Run in Paradise’, a
course has been created that combines
6 running with national park scenery
and views of the ocean. Plotted
through the southern half of Phu Quoc
Island along one of the most scenic
stretches of beaches in South East Asia,
many events are scheduled — the main
race of 42km (Full Marathon), plus
the shorter 21km (Half Marathon),
10km, 5km and a 1km kids race, all
finishing inside the grounds of Long
Beach Resort Phu Quoc, where athletes
are welcome to run straight into the
refreshing ocean.
To register and find out more, go to
sportingrepublic/phuquocmarathon
IN
Cam Ranh Riviera Beach
Resort & Spa
Just The first five-star resort in Bai Dai,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa officially
opened for guests on Apr. 1.
A 15-minute drive from Cam Ranh
HCMC International Airport and a 40-minute

drive to Nha Trang city centre, Cam
Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa is
located on one of the most pristine
Resorts, gour- white sandy beaches in Vietnam.
Spread over an area of 10 hectares
met burger with 200 meters of coastline, Cam
1
Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa’s
restaurants, 226 ocean view pool villas and rooms
blend contemporary style with a
wine cellars European-holiday concept. Allowing
and Arms ample daylight, the interiors feature
a soothing mix of neutral and earthy
museums. tones and subtle Vietnamese touches
that adorn each living space, ensuring
Who says that guests’ utmost comfort and relaxation.
With all-day buffets, quality
our content dining and plenty of spa treatments
isn’t eclectic? in the mix, it sounds like they’ve
left no stone unturned in creating a
All that’s new memorable experience by the beach
on Vietnam’s South-Central coastline.
in Saigon and As part of their grand opening, Cam
Ranh Riviera is offering a three-day, two-
beyond night package in a Deluxe Seaview Room
with daily buffet breakfast, one dinner, one
body massage and airport transfer for two
people at only VND5,400,000. Valid until
Nov. 30, except for public holidays. For
more info click on rivieraresortspa.com
Good Weather Guarantee in

Laos
Southeast Asian travel portal One
2
Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa is the latest five-star resort to come to the area south of Nha Trang
Click to Asia (OCTA) believe that

the rainy season is a great time to
The travel portal, One Click to Asia, is offering a money back guarantee if it rains too much in Laos
travel to Laos — and they’re putting longer-duration visa, compared to as a DJ stand, The Craft which
their money where their mouth is by the current three-month single-entry serves craft beers made in Vietnam
offering a Good Weather Guarantee. one to enter Vietnam. But the payback and is home to other fun activities,
From Apr. 1 to Oct. 31, any is that Vietnam will issue 12-month, and The Smokey Jungle which
travellers who book a minimum multiple-entry visas to American focuses on molecular cocktails.
seven-night trip to Laos with OCTA citizens who travel temporarily to The drink list offers the full
will get a partial refund if their holiday Vietnam for business or tourism. range of drinks including cocktails
is disrupted by heavy rain — for every Unveiled last month by Vietnam’s (VND130,000 for a mojito), mocktails,
day of 3 hours or more continuous lawmaking National Assembly, the shots, spirits by the bottle, coffee
rain, the clients will receive a refund of new visas are expected to come into (VND40,000 for an espresso) and tea.
50 percent of their daily trip cost. force in late May or early June. U.S. Piu Piu is at 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1,
“Laos and its neighbours (Vietnam, Ambassador to Vietnam Ted Osius HCMC
Sushi and cocktails meets wagyu barbecue at Lavastone
Cambodia, Myanmar, Thailand) all hailed the visa extension as “the

Relish brings its gourmet burger concept to District 2
suffer a big drop in visitor numbers latest in a series of developments

during the rainy months. So we want which will bring the U.S. and Relish & Sons in Thao Dien
Pacharan is no more. Instead it is now Piu Piu
to knock on the head the notion that Vietnam closer together.” Located near the corner of Xuan
travelling to Laos during the rainy Thuy and Thao Dien, Relish &
season is unpleasant or impossible,” Sons’ new edition opened its doors
says Laurent Granier, OCTA’s Piu Piu at the end of April.
co-founder. Located on the site formerly Following the same theme as
To find out more, visit oneclicktoasia. occupied by Pacharan, Piu Piu the gourmet burger restaurant’s
com or email Laurent on laurent@ opened in the middle of April downtown location, this new
oneclicktoasia.com. sporting a concept designed for set-up boasts a minimalist interior
‘grown-up kids’. with white brick walls, tongue-in-
Built over three storeys with a cheek wall paintings, and wooden
Vietnam Approves One-Year different theme on each floor, the tables and chairs. Although the
Visas for US citizens themes include The Club, which is menu offers other options such
U.S. citizens will now have to wait for decorated with inflatable swimming as breakfast, sandwiches (starting
about six weeks to be able to get a new, rings and a banh mi stall functioning from VND135,000), and salads
4.
2.
3.
5.
1.

(VND140,000 for a Caesar), the main focus is
on burgers including the classic (VND160,000)
and in-house creations such as the pho burger
(VND150,000).
The drinks menu mixes beer on tap
(VND65,000 for a Platinum) with milkshakes,
homemade sodas, coffee (VND70,000 for a latte)
and tea. There is also a liquor list including
cocktails (VND140,000 for a Bloody Mary),
mugtails, and shots.
Relish & Sons is at 105 — 107 Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC
3
Lavastone BBQ &

4
Cocktail House
Opened in late 2015, Lavastone is a restaurant
where East meets West in terms of both the
interior and the cuisine.
You can either choose Western-style décor with
barebrick walls on the first floor or the zen-like
atmosphere on the second floor with Japanese
tables and chairs, and décor to match. Focusing on
Japanese specialties like wagyu beef (VND569,000
for a wagyu sirloin) and sashimi (VND479,000
for five people), the menu offers a wide range of
dishes, from grilled seafood (VND99,000 for grilled
oysters) and hot pots to fried rice and other side
dishes (VND149,000 for crispy fried soft shell crab)
There is also a bar counter at the back which serves
up anything from classic shots to creative cocktails,
perfect if you’re in search of a drink to match your
mood.
Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House is at 96B Nam
Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, HCMC. To see more, turn to our
5 article on page 180
MOVING?
.
Call Us

Just
HCMC IN
1 2
Mekong Merchant Wine Cellar Serving up a range of organic bread previously limited such screenings to
One of District 2’s favourite eating specialities (multigrain baguettes, state-owned hospitals.
and drinking haunts, Mekong pumpkin seed baguettes and pretzels) Typically taking between 30 and
Merchant, has decided to exercise its as well as the likes of the breakfast 45 minutes a go, the check-ups are
penchant for good wine by opening burger (VND129,000) and the priced at VND2,250,000 and are
Ever heard of the breakfast bento? Well, thanks to The Loop’s new breakfast option, you have now.
up an on-site wine cellar. breakfast burrito (VND109,000), on the available between 8am and 5pm
Boasting a selection of imported light and healthy side the joint now Monday to Friday, and 8am and 12
wine from France, Australia, Chile, serves up homemade granola, yoghurt noon on Saturdays.
Argentina, New Zealand, Spain, Italy specialties, Swiss Bircher muesli For more info, call (08) 3514 0757 or
and USA, all sold at affordable prices, (VND129,000) and a fruity-nutty click on vietnammedicalpractice.com
customers can either buy a bottle or breakfast couscous (VND129,000).
After a three-and-a-half year hiatus, the Arms Museum opens again in Vung Tau
Mekong Merchant opens up a wine cellar for both on and off-trade customers
six to take home, have the good stuff However, a highlight is the newly
delivered direct to the door. Even introduced The Loop Breakfast Bento Arms Museum Reopens
better, at just VND50,000 corkage box (VND199,000), which contains A private antique weapons museum
you can buy a bottle and open it at breakfast specialities from around the owned by a British expat, Robert
Mekong Merchant itself. world including veggie sticks with Taylor, has reopened in Vung Tau at
Starting at just VND225,000 for the dips, eggs benedict, Turkish breakfast a new location after being closed in
French Plaimont Colombelle and rising soup, a roll with cream cheese and late 2012.
to VND1,050,000 for the Henschke jam, and tea, coffee or cacao. The Worldwide Arms Museum, the
shiraz grenache, a full range of non- The Loop is at 49 Thao Dien, Q2, first private museum in Ba Ria-Vung
premium wines is stocked here. So best HCMC Tau Province, boasts a collection
pop in and check out what’s on offer. of more than 1,000 army costumes
Mekong Merchant is at 23 Thao Dien, and weapons from England, France,
Q2, HCMC Work Permit Health Checks at Mongolia, Turkey, Vietnam and China,
Care 1 and is essentially Robert Taylor’s
Family Medical Practice is now own private collection that he started
The Loop’s New Breakfast providing work-permit health checks putting together when he was just 19.
Menu at the Care 1 clinic, located in The Providing a much needed
Thanks to its excellent Hausbrandt Manor in Ho Chi Minh City. alternative experience for anyone
coffee and extensive, bagel-influenced Required by the Ministry of Labor visiting Vung Tau, on his death,
food menu, The Loop has always been before issuing work permits and Taylor has bequeathed the contents of
a popular breakfast spot. Now this resident cards for all foreigners living museum to Vietnam.
District 2 café and eatery is upping the in Vietnam, the move follows recent The Arms Museum is located at 98
ante with new additions to its menu. amendments to laws which had Tran Hung Dao, Vung Tau
2.
3.
1.

ToDo
Uncon Sci and Datodeo
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung a
Friday, May 6
Two talented DJs from LA will

be rolling up for a night at ATK,
listHanoi bringing their extraordinarily varied

vinyl sets of funk and soul.
For the last five years, Uncon Sci has
been travelling the world with a box of
DJs, Ratatat, 45s and a beat machine. As comfortable
behind the turntables as he is in front
comedy, of a sampler, Sci delivers a very wide
Ratatat, range of styles that are all united under
a heavy psychedelic groove. As a
the Hanoi passionate performer who has cut his
teeth in the LA underground scene, Sci
3
Vertical Run, has performed with the likes of J-Rocc,

Dorian Concept, Kode9, Keb Darge,
remarkable Dam-Funk, Cut Chemist and D-Styles 1
to name a few.
women and, On his trip to Hanoi he will be
b
erm, Ratatat. playing with fellow Los Angeles-

based DJ, Datodeo a serious vinyl
This month collector with a massive arsenal
of diverse rare sounds — from
in the capital. Brazilian soul and funk oddities to
Afro, disco, house and techno.
And don’t CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De,
forget Ratatat Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Entrance TBC
Market de Maison
Maison de Tet Décor, Tay Ho
Sunday, May 8 2 c
Maison de Tet Decor’s regular

Maison Market Day returns on the I create a miniature city out of my something a little bit different,
second Sunday of the month, with a drawing, paper sculptures and light.” something to invigorate you and
varied showcase of artists and stalls. Entrance is free and Manzi Artspace leave you refreshed and ready for
Expect to find edgy designs, is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi the weekend.
handmade crafts, jewellery and A night of tunes running the
vintage garments as well as an Remarkable Women at gamut from indie, punk, post-punk
organic farmers’ market. Chat with Clickspace and ska to rock, disco, nu-disco and
the artists directly, pick up some great Clickspace, Tay Ho indie electro, the music will come
quality items and enjoy the local Tuesday, May 10 from bands such as Joy Division,
4. The Smiths is just one of the bands who’ll have their music featured by Stratford Boys Club
community atmosphere. Coffee and a Sonic Youth, Pavement, Animal

healthy food menu are also on offer. Co-working operator Clickspace Collective, The Smiths, Depeche
Maison de Tet Décor is at Villa 156 Tu will host an evening of discussion Mode, Riot Grrl and a lot lot more.
Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi. featuring four prominent women CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
The market runs from 10am to 4pm who have met with particular Ba Trung, Hanoi. Entry is free of charge
success in their chosen fields.
Into The Dark The panel will include Victoria The European Food Festival
Manzi, Ba Dinh Kwakwa, World Bank East Asia & National Library, Hoan Kiem
May 8 to May 31 Pacific vice president and Shuyin Saturday, May 14
6. US comic Turner Sparks will be performing on May 19 at ATK
Tang, an impact investor recently

Hanoi based artist Vu Kim Thu will voted as one of Australia’s 100 Eurocham will host the 10th
5. The 2015 outing of the European Food Festival in Hanoi
Nguyen Van Anh
be displaying her unique form of most influential women. Also on European Food Festival which it says
miniature urban art this month. In the panel will be Nguyen Van will be bigger than ever before. It will
Work from Vu Kim Thu’s show, Into the Darkw
the artist’s words: “My world is a Anh, leader of CSAGA, an agency feature some of the best known hotels
miniature world. When travelling, I advocating the rights of vulnerable and restaurants in Hanoi serving
navigate a new city and its facilities women and children in Vietnam. their take on European cuisine,
c
Shuyin Tang -
Maison Market Day is back on May 8
by synthesizing its repeated forms, Entry is by donation with all money creating a wealth of food through the
fragmentations, and architectural raised donated to CSAGA. creations of their talented chefs.
spaces through memory and Clickspace is at 15, Lane 76, To Ngoc Highlights include a cryogenic
observation. The layout of maps Van, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The evening starts food show for children, live music,
b
generates structures and orientation at 7pm entertainment, a kids’ corner and

Victoria Kwakwa -
that I fill with linear details evoking a lucky draw with prizes such as
streets, population, traffic, and Stratford Boys Club flight tickets to Europe. Last year,
architecture. I start with one small CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung there were 1,300 participants and
detail creating marks that spread Friday, May 13 20 food booths, and EuroCham
outwards, elaborating a personal expects even more guests this year.
3.a
visual map of urban space. Slowly, Come to ATK if you’re up for For more information, contact Linh
2.
1.

on (04) 3715 2228 or by email on linh@
4 eurochamvn.org. The festival will take
place at the National Library, 31 Trang
Thi, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and will kick
off at 4pm
The Comedy of Turner Sparks

CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung
Thursday, May 19
International stand-up comedy is

back, and once again it’s at CAMA
ATK. This month the show will
be headlined by US comic, Turner
Sparks.
Based in Suzhou and Shanghai,
China, Turner started his comedy
5 career in 2009 by founding Mainland
China’s first stand up comedy
group, Stand Up China. Currently
a regular performer at Shanghai’s
Kung Fu Komedy Club, Turner
has performed hundreds of shows
throughout China and Asia, most
recently being awarded ‘Best of the
Fest’ at the 2014 Akumal Comedy
Festival in Mexico presented by
Stand Up Records
This will be Turner’s last tour of
Asia before returning to New York
to pursue his career in comedy.
CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai
Ba Trung, Hanoi. The show starts at 8pm.
6 Entrance TBC. For more information on
Turner Sparks, click on turnersparks.com
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ToDo
listHanoi
Commonwealth Networking 2
Event
Press Club, Hoan Kiem
Friday, May 20
The British Business Group Vietnam

(BBGV) is arranging its first-ever
Commonwealth networking event in
Hanoi later this month. Attendees will
have the opportunity to connect with
more than 200 business professionals
from a cross-section of sectors and
3
from a number of different business
chambers and groups in Hanoi.
The price of a ticket to this event, Dancefloor destructors. Ratatat is Now they’re getting big
which will run from 6.30pm to back in Hanoi, their favourite place Entrance is VND50,000 on the door.
8.30pm, is VND200,000. to play in the world. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
For more information, contact Ta Ha The New York City experimental Trung, Hanoi
Lan on 0936 067757 or by email on lan. rock-meets-electronica duo
ta@bbgv.org. The Press Club is at 59a consisting of Mike Stroud on guitar, The Hanoi Vertical Run
Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi melodica, synthesizers, percussion, Landmark 72, My Dinh
and producer Evan Mast on bass, Saturday, Jul. 9
Salomé synthesizers and percussion, have
Hanoi Cinémathèque been to Vietnam many times before. Registration has opened for
Sunday, May 22 And they’re explosive. Vietnam’s highest stair climbing
If you’ve already snagged tickets race, the Hanoi Vertical Run, and
Cinémathèque is continuing their to the sold-out performances, expect organisers Sporting Republic expect
opera screenings this month with to have a massive night of live music. the event to sell out quickly.
Salomé by Richard Strauss. Entrance is VND250,000 in advance Runners will embark upon the
3. Yes, they’re back! Ratatat are playing ATK on May 22. Not to be missed
Based on the play of the same and tickets can be purchased from ascent of Vietnam’s tallest building,
4. Hong Kong ska band The Red Stripes are coming to Hanoi this month
The BBGV’s Commonwealth Networking Event takes place on May 20
5. The Hanoi Vertical Run returns to Vietnam’s tallest building on Jul. 9
name by Oscar Wilde, Salomé is the CAMA ATK, 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Landmark 72, facing the challenge
The Opera Salomé will be screened at Cinémathèque on May 22
story of King Herod and the love Trung, Hanoi of climbing 350 metres, 72 floors
triangle created around the beautiful and 1,914 steps if they want to cross
princess Salomé and the prophet The Red Stripes the finish line and enjoy the view at
Jochanaan. The story ends with the CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung the top. Sporting Republic expects
execution of Salomé. Saturday, May 28 to attract the full complement of
For more information, contact 500 runners across the various
Cinémathèque directly on (04) 3936 Hong Kong’s finest mod and ska categories for the July 9 event.
2648. A limited number of tickets are also band, The Red Stripes, have been on “The buzz around the race is being
available through the Opera Guild — a journey to bring the sounds of ska, felt within the sporting community,”
send an email to info@hanoioperaguild. soul and mod to audiences across says David Shin of Sporting Republic.
com. The screening starts at 7pm and Hong Kong and Asia. Along the “We are anticipating a sell-out and are
Hanoi Cinémathèque is at 22A Hai Ba way they have gained a reputation encouraging runners to sign up now
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi as high-energy performers with an so they don’t miss the chance to be a
accomplished level of musicianship. part of the incredible celebration.”
Ratatat In the beginning, the goal was Online registrations have started
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung simple, to bust out a little played with a participation fee of between
Sunday, May 22 genre of music with a big live band US$20 and US$25 per person. For more
format to a new audience, and to information please visit the event website:
World-class talent. Wildcat mayhem. develop their own style and sound. sportingrepublic.com/hanoiverticalrun
2.
1.

4
Vietnam's favourite
Brazilian restaurant.
DISHES
,
N E W
N OW WIT D A NEW FEEL.
H
W L O OK AN
A NE
Au Lac Do Brazil I HCMC Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi Au Lac Do Brazil III Nha Trang
238 Pasteur, Dist. 3 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist 101 Trinh Phong Str, Tan Lap Ward
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pr@aulacdobrazil.com pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com pr_nhatrang@aulacdobrazil.com

2
Just
Hanoi
New resorts,
visa services,
IN
arts cafes
and a Thai
restaurant.
All that’s
new this
month in
Hanoi and
beyond
Ngon Villa boutique mall. The resort boasts 494 ages of seven and 12.
Combining authentic Vietnamese rooms and suites in six categories — Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau
street food with the elegance of Standard, Deluxe, Executive Suite, Giay, Hanoi. For more information click on
a French villa is the aim of new Family Suite and Royal Suite. novotel.com/9813 or call (04) 3576 6666
restaurant Ngon Villa. There are seven F&B outlets and
The restaurant, which will be open a range of recreational activities,
24 hours a day, can cater for up to including a fitness centre, a spa Tuk Tuk Thai Cuisine
170 people and will offer a range of offering pampering facial and massage There’s a new Thai spot in town, and
An artist’s impression of the newly opened restaurant in the Novotel Suites, Food Exchange
traditional dishes, from Hanoi’s own treatments, and an indoor pool. it’s called Tuk Tuk. Tucked away just
pho cuon to the specialities of Central To celebrate the opening, the off Hoan Kiem Lake on Hang Hanh,
Vietnam. hotel is offering a special rate the restaurant is currently working
The intiMate Initiative have started new sexual health education workshops at HRC
A barbeque station with a variety starting at VND1,460,000++ (US$65) out its kinks with a soft opening,
Ngon Villa has just opened on Food Street, which means it will be open 24 hours
of tempting dishes is also available. per night with breakfast for two, but the cozy, colourful space shows
Other visitors will be attracted by the valid until May 31. major promise.
opening season promotions, which Mercure Bana Hills French Village Owner Mon Ovath, former chef at
include a free flow of beer from 6pm is located in An Son Hamlet, Hoa Ninh Madake and Ha Noi Panic, is cooking
to 7.30pm and 11.30pm to 12.30am. Commune, Hoa Vang, Danang, 40km up dinner classics like pad thai and
The restaurant is the latest venture from Danang Airport and train station. green curry for VND85,000, with
Bana Hills outside Danang now has itself a French village
of travel company Paradise Hotels For more information, please visit plans to open for breakfast and lunch.
& Cruises. accorhotels.com or call (0511) 379 9222 Be on the look out for the grand
Tuk Thai is the latest Thai restaurant to hit Hanoi
Ngon Villa is at 10 Tong Duy Tan, opening in the coming month.

Bia Tay Ta has opened next to Hanoi Rock City
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tuk Tuk Thai is at 46 Hang Hanh,

Food Exchange Hoan Kiem, and is currently open from
Linh and Ben have moved to Hang Buom
The newly opened Novotel Suites 6pm to 11pm

Mercure Bana Hills French is offering a 30 percent discount off
Village buffet lunches at its restaurant, Food
AccorHotels has just opened a Exchange, through to Jul. 31 as part Women’s Health Workshops
luxury resort at an altitude of of its opening promotion. The intiMate Initiative is continuing
1,480 metres above sea level, The modern-looking buffet, with their work to expand sexual health
set in the spectacular Bana Hills its live cooking stations, prides itself education in Vietnam with biweekly
above Danang. The hotel’s on its well-balanced dishes using workshops at Hanoi Rock City.
architectural design is inspired natural and fresh ingredients. Further Aiming to start conversations
by the quintessential villages of promotions include a complimentary about women’s health issues like
19th-century France, surrounded meal for children under six, and 50 fertility and HPV, as well as address
by an entertainment hub, and a percent off for children between the social stigmas around gender and
4.
6.
2.
3.
5.
7.
1.

3
6 7
sexuality, the small group Linh & Ben customers pay for each dish
discussions are open to all, every If you’re wondering what according to what they think it’s
other Sunday at 7.30pm. happened to Linh & Ben on Xuan actually worth.
The group will also use these Dieu, well now you know — it’s However, setting themselves
workshops to train community moved to Hang Buom in the Old up first and foremost as an art
youth leaders to facilitate Quarter. café, 81 QT welcomes all artists to
conversations about sexual Boasting a similar ambience come to work, do performances
health among their peers. and décor of its previous and run workshops. They are
For more information, find The incarnation — bold colours, cosy, also promising exhibitions,
intiMate Initiative on Facebook, or and casual — the new eatery stand-up comedy, live music and
go to theintimateinitiative.com serves up traditional French charity art auctions. With coffee
cuisine and is open from 9.30am and drinks costing between
for breakfast, lunch and dinner. VND20,000 and VND65,000,
New Bia Hoi on To Ngoc The menu includes crepes check out this new venue to see
Van made with a machine imported what they’re up to. By the sounds
Bia Tay Ta recently held its grand from France (VND165,000 to of it, it could be quite a lot.
opening on To Ngoc Van to a VND195,000 a go), salads, 81 QT is at 81 Quan Thanh, Ba
packed house. Run by couple starters and mains such as the Dinh, Hanoi
Huong Vu Hai and Hien of beef tartar (VND355,000), the
Quest Festival and Commune lamb shank (VND375,000) and
Cafe, the space features specialty goose confit (VND325,000). True Color Tours
Na Da beer and tasty Vietnamese Linh & Ben is at 33 Hang Buom, Travel agent and visa queen
fare, from VND20,000 to Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. They have a Ms. Lai has moved her office
VND200,000 a dish. daily happy hour from 6pm to 8pm and business to the West Lake
Aiming to be a place where with 50 percent off beers and 25 neighbourhood, to be closer from
Vietnamese and Westerners alike percent off spirits, as well as a range her clientele. Or, as she puts it, “For
can enjoy a wallet-friendly, quality of other opening promotions the joy of her expat customers.”
brew, Tay Ta will be open from Considering that 80 percent
9am to midnight and features live of her business comes from the
music every weekend, along with 81 QT foreign residents of Hanoi, this
the occasional Game of Thrones A new art café has opened might not be such a bad move.
watching party. on Quan Thanh that not only True Color Tours is now at
Bia Tay Ta is located at 33/52 serves up Asian cuisine from its 32 Tay Ho, Tay Ho or online at
To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, next door to standard menu, but also has a truecolortours.com. You can contact
Hanoi Rock City separate conceptual menu where Ms. Lai on 0912 223966
Insider
The Organic Farm / Food Stories / Mau Colour/ The Latin Underground / Saigon Pool Tour / Mystery Diner Hanoi /
Bun Oc Co Hue / Mystery Diner HCMC / Know Your Com Tam / Club Med / Phu Yen / The Private Island / Notes From
Another City: Get Outta Town / Destination Zero / The Motorbike Diaries Part 14
Photo by Bao Zoan

Insider

The
Orga
INSI
DER
nic
HAN
OI
Farm

Julie Vola heads to Thanh Xuan Cooperative to get the beef — or more aptly,
the fruit and veg — on growing organic food in Hanoi
W
ith the rise of headline news regularly, but it doesn’t bother the farmers
in Vietnam about unsafe food anymore. It’s just a normal part of their day
being found in markets and now.
shops, one could get worried. In 2009, a group of families got together to
In these times of uncertainty, many create an organic farm under the patronage
people have begun to turn to organic of the ADDA-VNF Organic Agriculture
food in search of safe, quality products. Project. The group split in 2013, and six of its
The demand for food safety in Vietnam is families created Thanh Xuan Cooperative.
“By European huge, and the development of this market The ADDA-VNF Organic Agriculture
standards, Vietnam is rapid.

Pham Thi Tuyet Mai, director of Naturally
project developed a Participatory Guarantee
System (PGS) of organic standards
cannot produce Vietnam, a safe and organic shop on To Ngoc
Van says that we should actually not use
for Vietnam, accredited by IFOAM
(International Federation of Agriculture
organic food. There the term ‘organic’ for any products made in
Vietnam, because by European standards,
Movements Organic Farming — ifoam.org).
The PGS is a method of certification that
is too much pollution Vietnam cannot produce organic food. There uses peer review to hold everyone in the
in the soil, water and is too much pollution in the soil, water and
air. It’s more accurate to use words like ‘safe’
production chain accountable, and is applied
to all stages of the production process.
air. It’s more accurate and ‘clean’ food for products that have been
produced using minimal to no chemicals at
Naturally Vietnam sources all of its
vegetables from Thanh Xuan Cooperative.
to use words like all. However, even these cannot be labelled
‘safe’ and ‘clean’ for The System of Guarantees
100% organic according to European
standards, Mai tells me, but they’re as close
products produced Hanoi is surrounded by farmland. Just
across the Red River, you can see wide fields
as it gets here. Naturally Vietnam has a
permanent dialogue open with the farmers
using minimal to no of rice and vegetable farms. I have always to help them maintain quality, hold their
chemicals at all” been attracted to them, and always wanted
to photograph the landscape and the people
procedures to the highest standards, and
work to keep the environment clean.
working it.
One of these farms is Thanh Xuan Clean and Safe
cooperative, 6,200 square metres of safe, When I visited the farm, the cooperative’s
clean produce, situated near Noi Bai Airport. leader, Dung, told me it took almost a year
You can see and hear the airplanes landing to prepare the farm to produce clean, safe

vegetables. First, they had to clean the soil in the normal market. Dung has noticed a or aesthetically-pleasing as non-organic
of the chemical pollution left by previous big difference in her health since she stopped produce. The plants at the farm are also a bit
farming methods, and then prepare all the using chemicals on her farm, and the unattractive, because they can’t use chemical
bio-fertilizer and new seeds. environment has also benefitted from it; the pesticide or fertilizer, so very hungry
Respecting these high standards of air is fresher and free of chemical smells. caterpillars tend to eat holes in the leaves.
production makes the farm work much more Dung was very concerned about The Vietnamese are always surprised
demanding and time consuming, as farmers me taking photos at the farm, mainly by what I enjoy photographing. They did
have to weed the vegetable plots by hand. because she thought I would not like it. not think I would be so happy on the farm
However, they are happier, and the income Everyone who works on organic farms taking photos, and eating fresh cucumbers
they receive is higher and more consistent, or regularly buys organic knows that and tomatoes right off the plant, but I had a
as their prices aren’t affected by fluctuations these fruits and vegetables are not as big blast.

“Dung has noticed a big difference in her health since she stopped using
chemicals on her farm, and the environment has also benefitted from it;
the air is fresher and free of chemical smells”

Cover Story

SPE
CIAL
FOOD ov
C M e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May Issue
ONTH
Food Stories
W
e often forget how much work goes into making tofu through to the restaurateurs who have
the food that appears on our plate or the pioneered an industry, to the inventor of pho cuon and
drink that fills up our glass. Yet look at the the noodle soup restaurant that became the headquarters
chain of people and events that brings this for an uprising. Every person we’ve spoken to has a tale
all to us, and you realise the ubiquity and enormity of to tell. And each person has done or is doing something
today’s food and beverage industry. Look even further unique.
and you see the stories behind the food. Everyone’s got If you get joy out of eating and drinking and wonder at
an anecdote or a narrative. the passion, perspiration and dedication that makes it all
This cover story is dedicated to these stories. From happen, then this one’s for you.
SPE
CIAL
FOOD C ov e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May
MONTH Issue
Pho The People

One pho restaurant in Saigon's District 3 has a story that goes way beyond the food.
Words by Siân Kavanagh. Photos by Rodney Hughes

I
t's a particularly humid day when Con Dao prison after being captured by the bo at Pho Binh, you will receive a generous
I make the journey to Pho Binh Americans in 1968 after the Tet Offensive. plate of mint, Thai basil, lemon, chillies and
restaurant, and not an easy adventure sauce to appeal to southern Vietnamese
at that. Still nervous on my motorbike, This is About Pho customers, but the family recipe remains
I struggle to navigate my way across rush- The smell of frying beef fat fills the air in the otherwise unchanged.
hour traffic and one-way streets. restaurant downstairs as we come to try the
Just off of Hai Ba Trung in District 3, past pho that has survived wars. The gentleman Hidden in Plain Sight
the pink church and down Ly Chinh Thang, who prepares the soup gracefully lowers The location of Pho Binh is only 10 minutes
sits an unassuming shop selling Northern the beef into the broth and is eager to show away from downtown Saigon. Lap proudly
style pho bac; one of the most common us his veteran's card, before layering the describes the strategy of using the restaurant
Vietnamese dishes and a dietary staple up noodles, beef and broth into a bowl. as “safely hiding in the most dangerous
and down the country. The secrets of the family recipe for the spot”, right next door to US offices and
Taking a seat on the wooden stools at broth are tightly guarded as they have having Southern Vietnamese generals
metal tables underneath the orange fans, survived generations, relocations and life frequently visiting for lunch.
you wouldn’t suspect that this pho restaurant in all its facets. Each ingredient represents Lap’s father, Ngo Van Toai arrived in
offers more than just a delicious bowl of the generations of family as the recipe has Saigon in 1944, six years before his wife
noodle soup. been passed down between family members, and family followed him to the South. Toai,
My eyes wander to the framed photos a resistance member of the Viet Minh and
proudly displayed on the wall and the sign comrade in the Viet Cong, purchased the
in Vietnamese declaring the restaurant a house that would eventually become Pho
national heritage site. This isn’t just any old
eatery, but a slice of history nestled in the
“Lap explains in Binh in 1967 with financial help from the
Viet Cong.
heart of Saigon. Pho Binh was the Viet Cong detail how the Many Northern Vietnamese people moved
headquarters from 1967 to 1968, the place
where the Northern commanders met and members of the to the South during Operation Passage
to Freedom after the Geneva Accords of
planned the Tet Offensive of 1968. Viet Cong would 1954. “It was common to find Northerners
opening restaurants in the South before and
Tucked Away Upstairs secretly meet at during the war,” remarked Lap.
After meeting the owner Ngo Van Lap, who
inherited Pho Binh from his father, we are the restaurant, After Toai was captured and the
Americans raided Pho Binh in February
herded up a steep and steamy staircase and
into a spacious, tiled living room. Decorating
and after hours in 1968, the restaurant closed. But it reopened
in 1975 after the prisoners of war were
the walls are over 50 black-and-white the upstairs room, released, and the war had ended. Thus, the
portraits of comrades and members of the
Viet Cong and Communist Party, Lap and strategize and Ngo family continues to serve up bowls of
history every day.
his father Ngo Van Toai included.
Within minutes of entering this treasure
plan their next North Meets South in a
trove of Vietnamese history, I find myself moves during a Ceramic Bowl
coated in a thick layer of sweat and with
arms full of articles about Pho Binh over critical time of the Pho is reminiscent of Vietnam in more
ways than one. From the separate styles of
the years and Lap’s family. Lap talks so
enthusiastically about the room that was
American war” Northern pho bac and Southern pho nam, to
the influences of French, Chinese and local
once a major political meeting place, that culinary styles, it is a dish that is uniquely
I feel as though I understand every word, Vietnamese.
even though I don’t speak a word of from its Northern origins to its home in the The name of this restaurant, Pho Binh or
Vietnamese. heart of Ho Chi Minh City. The northern (pho “Peace Soup”, also hinges on that harmony
Walking the length of the room, Lap bac) and southern (pho nam) styles evolved between north and south. When I ask Lap
explains in detail how the members of separately as Vietnam was divided into if he has visited his home in the north, he
the Viet Cong would secretly meet at the two from 1954, and the differences are still laughs as he responds: “Saigon is my home,
restaurant, and after hours in the upstairs evident today. it is where I was born.”
room, strategize and plan their next moves The distinctive characteristics of Northern- Then he stops and reflects: “But I grew
during a critical time of the American war. style pho are the lack of sugar in the broth, up with a different perspective, a Northern
His face, filled with youth for someone 60 chopped beef instead of sliced beef, and perspective.”
years old, bears a proud smile as he talks serving up the noodles without herbs and Pho Binh is located at 7 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3,
about his father the comrade, and his time in bean sprouts. Today, when you order the pho HCMC. It is open daily from 9am to 9pm
SPE
CIAL
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May
MONTH Issue
The Tofu Widow

Vu Ha Kim Vy gets into conversation with Ly Thi Nhat to find out how tofu
has become a livelihood for her and her family. Photos by Bao Zoan
A
lthough Tan Phu Market was seven children, a small house and a piece continues. Yet since her husband’s death
renovated more than 10 years of rice field in Can Tho to her. She gives a from a heart attack, tofu has become her
ago, its traders prefer to set up on distant look as she starts the story of her only source of income.
its outskirts. Ly Thi Nhat’s stall, life. When she and the children arrived in
nestled in one of the main surrounding Saigon, she refined her tofu-making skills
streets, is just big enough to have a front The only Source through a recipe taught to her by her niece.
table to display her products and a boiling- “I couldn’t feed my children with a small For nearly 17 years that recipe has been her
oil pan for her daughter-in-law to fry cubed piece of paddy and my eldest child was livelihood as she’s watched her children
tofu. only 17 at that time,” she says. Thanks to a mature, get married and have their own
On the table lay several stacks of fried sum of money sent by her sister who was children.
and white tofu, a few tubes of silken tofu, living in the US and the proceeds from Tofu making is a hard job. It’s time
a dozen bags of soya milk and bean curd selling everything she had in Can Tho, she consuming and the recipe must be followed
sheets. “Her tofu is the best in this market!” and her children moved to Saigon for a to the letter. Tofu needs to be made at 1am
my mother says while waiting for her to better life. to be ready for the early market, which
pack three bags of soya milk. “I learnt how to make tofu through my usually starts at 5am. That is not counting
Nhat is a 55-year-old widow; her sister-in-law when my husband was still the 1st and 15th of the lunar month, the
husband died when she was 38, leaving alive, but I was never serious with it,” she days when there is a new moon and full

moon, a time when the consumption of Refusing to accept defeat, she decided to soya milk and an acidid liquid (normally
tofu rises significantly. On these days, Nhat rent a small back-street spot that eventually vinegar) to form white curds, which are
starts work at 9pm. became her own. Aiming to have a frying then moulded into rectangles. This process
“Thank God, my eldest son has been section on-site, she rented the spot next to produces less tofu and is time-consuming, but
helping me out a lot,” she says. “He and his her location from a cousin. “I also bought doesn’t require the addition of gypsum, which
wife now take care of the cooking process. I that second spot two years ago,” she says. some believe is a health hazard.
am in charge of selling the product.” “We use 80 kilograms of soybeans for “All the ingredients have to be bought,
making tofu and other soya-related products cooked and consumed in one day, as this
Expansion every day. That is already a lot of work for process cannot make the tofu last long,”
Nhat pauses for a while, recalling the time the three of us. We just focus on family-sized explains Doanh.
when she carried her tray of tofu around consumption,” she replies when I asked her “My mother and I don’t want to expand into
Tan Phu market. She had just moved to about next step for the business. a factory-sized business,” he adds. “When you
Saigon. need a large of amount of tofu to be made in a
“People usually have their favourite The Recipe short time, you need to use gypsum, which is
suppliers and they didn’t know me,” she The recipe, originally from Ha Nam Ninh cheaper than the way we are making tofu now.
says. “That was the reason why sales were (now Nam Dinh and Ninh Binh), requires Profits are higher, but to us morality is more
slow.” more than three hours for the mixture of boiled important.”

SPE
CIAL
FOOD ov
C M e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May Issue
ONTH
Al Fresco’s: An
Unlikely Success
Story
The first Western restaurant chain in Vietnam, this year the Al Fresco’s Group turns 20.
Emily Petsko speaks to the chain’s founder, Jacko, to hear their story

I
f you find yourself at the original Al had other ideas. He wanted to make Al
Fresco’s restaurant on Hanoi’s Hai Ba Fresco’s more affordable. Yet getting things
Trung, and you suddenly forget what going wasn’t easy.
country you’re in, don’t panic. That’s Without adequate storage space, staff had
the intended effect. “‘I had rat poison to store imported steaks and salmon fillets
The tables are dressed in white cloths, air
conditioners pump cold air into the room, put in chicken in their own freezers, and bicycles were the
only mode of transport. Poor English among
and Heinz ketchup and house-made hot
sauce are stationed where the pickled garlic
breasts and I waiting staff was another issue, especially as
Jacko’s policy was to slash the tabs of entire
would normally be. A wide-screen television had broken glass parties if just one order was wrong.
suspended from the ceiling plays Al Fresco’s
advertisements on loop. put in things, As it turns out, spaghetti vongole sounds
a lot like spaghetti bolognese.
“Is everything okay with your meal?” my
waitress, Nhung, asks me several bites into
like crushed-up “There’d be three or four meals and one
would be a mistake,” he recalls. “I’d free the
my chicken fajitas. The reason I know her
name is because she told me to call her if
glass put in food whole table because that was the standard
that I was aspiring to.”
needed, and just as a reminder, a nametag is items from the Business picked up steadily, but he didn’t
pinned to her shirt.
No “em oi” necessary.
market because take a salary for the first year of operations.
Yet more troubling were the attacks.
While the dining experience is
quintessentially Western, I’m surrounded
I stopped buying Everyone was struggling to get by in those
days, and competition was fierce.
by Vietnamese customers — young couples from [one supplier] “I had rat poison put in chicken breasts,”
sharing a bowl of pasta, middle-aged men
drinking beer, and office colleagues gabbing and bought from says Jacko, “and I had broken glass put in
things, like crushed-up glass put in food
more than eating.
It wasn’t always this way. When it opened
another one items from the market because I stopped
buying from [one supplier] and bought from
20 years ago, the overwhelming majority instead” another one instead.”
of customers were Western expats. Now, Another supplier tipped him off about the
about 70% of diners are Vietnamese, and poison, and other locals he had befriended
Al Fresco’s Group restaurants — including offered their help along the way.
other chains like Jaspas and Pepperonis — “If I didn’t have Vietnamese protecting
number 52 in Vietnam. in Hanoi — where anti-foreign sentiment me, I wouldn’t have been able to stay open.
The road to become the first Western was still present two decades after the The only way was to have local help.”
restaurant chain in Vietnam was a bumpy American War had ended — Jacko says it
one, pockmarked with many potholes along was all about the connections. Pizza Revolution
the way. There were language barriers, a lack “We had a good Vietnamese partner,” he At some point along the way, Al Fresco’s
of freezers (staff stored meat in their homes), explains. “That’s always the tricky thing in gained local trust and won over Vietnamese
and even a failed poisoning attempt by a Asia because the laws were that foreigners taste buds in a big way.
disgruntled chicken supplier. couldn’t own businesses, so we needed to Pepperonis restaurant, which opened in
The odds were stacked, but then again, have a very trustworthy and honourable Hanoi in 1997, started offering an all-you-
so were the heaping plates of BBQ ribs that person, which is not that easy to find. So can-eat buffet for only VND20,000. It was the
kept customers coming back. wherever you find that person, that’s where first buffet in Hanoi outside of the five-star
you should probably set up.” hotels, and locals had eyes bigger than their
Down Under Roots The idea was to create a “Western comfort stomachs.
Craig “Jacko” Jackson, an Aussie with food” restaurant with Australian hospitality “They’d bring in plastic bags and start
an extensive background in hotel and and a menu boasting pizza, pasta, tacos, sweeping the food off the buffet into the
restaurant management, moved from Hong steaks and ribs. bags to take home,” says Jacko. “It was a
Kong to Hanoi in 1996 to open Al Fresco’s. “That was very popular when we first very tough learning experience.”
He had known his business partner, opened because everyone was sick of rice Yet, for most Hanoians, pizza wasn’t love
Wayne Parfit, since he was 10 years old, and and noodles,” says Jacko. at first bite. In Vietnamese it was called a
a Vietnamese woman they knew agreed to At the time, only two restaurants in Hanoi “cake” and people would say: “You only
serve as the legal restaurant owner. served Western cuisine, and both were need one slice and you’re full.” Cheese
As for why they chose to start a business focused on top-end clientele. Jacko, however, turned out to be an acquired taste.

But after serving up tasty pizzas with [people] had been served quite sub-standard have even come down. A large pepperoni
ample toppings for several years, locals food here for a long time.” pizza that originally cost US$10.50
started to change their minds. The group ran By that time, Al Fresco’s Group was (VND236,000) is now priced at just under
a survey before opening the first Al Fresco’s already operating a handful of successful US$10.
restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City in 2003 and restaurants in Hanoi, and they wanted to Despite facing heavy competition from
asked Vietnamese to rate how much they try their luck down south. It paid off. They other Western restaurants, Jacko says Al
liked pizza. In Hanoi, pizza polled between continued to win over both expats and Fresco’s hasn’t taken much of a hit. In fact, it
8 and 10, with 10 being the highest. local customers, and the number of pizza seems just as popular as ever.
In Saigon, the highest rating was 4, and lovers seemed to grow by the day. They later “Vietnamese can’t believe that a foreigner
most Vietnamese ranked it a 2 or 3. Jacko opened more restaurants in Saigon and one has survived in Vietnam,” he explains. “Any
attributed this to the fact that Vietnamese in in Danang. Vietnamese will just say ‘There’s no way that
Saigon had only eaten “crazy bad pizzas” a foreigner can do this’, but we have.”
with knock-off ingredients like Happy Cow Two Decades Later He adds: “We’ve been lucky. We’ve had
cheese. For their 20th anniversary this autumn, a good Vietnamese partner and my staff
“We came to Saigon thinking that we were Al Fresco’s will host special promotions swung over to help me and support me
gonna kill it because everyone’s going to be and giveaways. They plan to display their while they were getting a lot of pressure to
so Western-oriented,” he says. “But actually, original menu to prove how little their prices not help the foreigner. I was very lucky that
Saigon was a whole new experience because have fluctuated over the years. Some prices my staff stood by me.”

SPE
CIAL
FOOD ov
C M e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May Issue
ONTH
Confessions of a
Wine Supplier
Ever wondered what it's like supplying wine in Vietnam? Billy Gray catches up with Jeremie
Courivault, one of the best known faces in the local wine industry. Photos by Julie Vola

J
eremie Courivault of The
Warehouse in Hanoi is among the
growing list of wine suppliers in
Vietnam. Working in the industry
for well over a decade he has a good idea
“‘In this business the customer is always
about what it’s like supplying wine in a right, so I just sat back and smiled’”
country that’s still developing a palate for
the good stuff.
Moving to Vietnam when he was just 20,
the goal was to set up a restaurant with a
friend from back in France. too late, the lid was open and these prawns bought a very nice, and very expensive
“He was doing seasonal work,” recalls were leaping out for their lives all over the bottle of red wine from me,” he laughs.
Jeremie. “So I left three months earlier than table.” “They poured a glass each and then cracked
him and waited for him to finish the season an egg, separated the white from the yoke
and come out to join me. It’s been almost 20 No Sour Grapes and mixed it into the wine.”
years and I’m still waiting for that season to Jeremie’s clientele has grown over the years He adds: “In this business the customer is
finish.” to include a diverse bunch from some of always right, so I just sat back and smiled.”
the best hotels and restaurants in town, to A little taken aback by this innovation I
Sowing the Seeds ambassadors, businessmen, the occasional ask him, have you tried it yourself?
Once settled, he didn’t waste time getting Vietnamese pop star and just about any wine “God no… I love wine too much!”
involved with the local service industry, lover in Vietnam who knows how to read a For more info on The Warehouse, click on
working in restaurants and bars and map. warehouse-asia.com
learning English and Vietnamese as he went In the wine industry, Jeremie points out,
along. Jeremie soon began supplying wine, you have to know more than just a lot about
but back in the early 2000s, as he says: “All wine, you need to know your customers
you could get was fake 1997 Bordeaux, but and their tastes. Jeremie has built personal
that’s changed — we’re fortunate in Vietnam relationships with his over the years,
that the market is now very legitimate.” sharing his passion and his knowledge for
Still, the wine industry in Vietnam is everyone’s favourite grape juice.
certainly in its development stages, and He cites an incident with some high-
often customers want the biggest, boldest profile dignitaries.
and most expensive bottle available just to “A friend of mine was hosting a dinner for
make a statement. This is something that some very important guests and of course
Jeremie is determined to change. she wanted everything to be of the highest
“There’s so much out there,” he says. “I standard. She’d prepared a nine-course meal
do try to suggest other wines, but there’s a and called me asking for some of my best
fine line. I want to advise my clients, but at wines; everything was set to perfection.
the same time, if they like a heavy red every “The guests arrived, already drunk, and
time, then that’s what they like.” wanted all the food served in three courses.
Since 2000, Warehouse has expanded When the wine was offered they passed it
across Vietnam and beyond, with bases in up and got their driver to go and pick up
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Danang and two bottles of whisky instead. She was on
a strong presence in Cambodia, Laos and the phone crying afterwards. But the lesson
Myanmar. They have regular wine tastings is that you have to know your customer, and
in their shops and hold wine dinners in some what they want.”
of the most exclusive venues in Vietnam.
Pairing the right wine with different Ripening
cuisine is one of the fundamentals of the It’s clear that Jeremie has learnt a lot over the
industry, and something that Jeremie has years from being not just a survivor of, but
been practising for years, and with some also a pioneer of Vietnam’s wine supplying
quite exotic dishes — think rat, turtle, industry. “We want people to learn about
scorpions and larvae. wine, we want people to explore what’s out
“Some of the food matching I’ve done has there.”
been crazy,” he says. “Once I was eating at In the business of supplying wine, you
a restaurant and they brought out a hotpot meet all kinds of characters. Some are more
and there was this rattling sound going memorable than others, some make more of
on — you assume that the hotpot is already a mess, and some push the boundaries just
boiling so I opened the lid to see what was when you thought you’d seen it all.
inside. ‘No!’ the staff were yelling, but it was “I’ll never forget, these two guys once

SPE
CIAL
FOOD ov
C M e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May Issue
ONTH
A Day in the Life

of a Five-Star Chef
No, we’re not talking about a Michelin-five-star chef. No such thing. This kitchen fiend is
Raphael Szurek, grand fromage at Hanoi’s JW Marriott. Words and photos by Julie Vola
O
riginally from Paris, 31-year-old Raphael says. Sometimes, he says, you have The hotel juggles 70 different suppliers for
Raphael Szurek began his career a stroke of genius, and come up with a dish their restaurants, and it can be hard to keep
in the 3-Michelin-star restaurant, that works right away, but usually from the ingredients consistent, as some suppliers
Le Grand Vefour, under the first idea to the final dish, trial and error buy per container.
tutelage of Chef Guy Martin. In 2006, have evolved the finished product beyond The French Grill spends VND20 million
Raphael moved to Guangzhou, China recognition. to VND30 million per day in food orders.
for a six months’ internship at the newly “Creating a dish is an intellectual The most expensive item is the Japanese
opened Novotel and from there he had the process,” he says. “I am not reinventing Wagyu beef, at VND16 million for four
opportunity to work at The Ritz Carlton cuisine, but you can take from other kilograms. After the meat is prepared in
when it was opening. people’s techniques and put your own twist the kitchen, it is preserved using oil, which
When it was time for him to move on, on it, and that’s what’s nice. Dishes evolve avoids damage from freezing, and the grey
Raphael contacted the JW Marriott and was over time, but people come to eat a chef’s colour that results if it is vacuum-sealed
offered work on the opening of The French full cuisine, not just one dish in particular.” and deprived of oxygen.
Grill. He recently received the Rising Star “I like to look for new products,” says
Culinary Excellence Award for Asia-Pacific Groundwork Raphael. “Sometimes I go to the market
from the JW Marriott. Stylistically, Raphael First things first; deliveries. Ingredients with the product purchaser to find
creates a modern French cuisine and usually come in a refrigerated truck. If not, interesting seasonal ingredients.
enjoys combining Vietnamese, Korean and the temperature of the product is tested, One of the most unique ingredients on
Japanese elements. and if it reads over a certain temperature, his list is bottarga — a salted, cured fish roe
The process of creating a new dish can it’s rejected. Deliveries are massive, but from Italy. The chef also tries to order local
vary from 10 minutes to three weeks, Chef trickle in slowly throughout the morning. whenever possible; his mozzarella and

burrata comes from Pizza 4P’s, who make kangaroo, shiraz and rosemary sausage, garnish intuitively; a piece of beetroot here, a
their own cheeses in Dalat. served with beetroot and goat cheese. bit of green and radish there. He adds a few
When the deliveries stop coming, Last year, some of the chef’s Australian drops of beetroot coulis, and then finally, the
Raphael heads to his office that he patrons asked if the French Grill could do goat cheese is delicately crumbled on top.
shares with the other chefs to do his something for Australia Day, and what’s The result is a verdant plate of green and
more mundane, yet necessary, tasks; more Aussie than kangaroo? With his affinity red, with touches of white. Australian cuisine
paperwork. Luckily, Raphael’s culinary for sausage-making, he decided to challenge is relaxed, says Raphael, and it’s a bit like a
school in Lyon was focused more on food himself to create a sausage with kangaroo deconstructed Australian BBQ with salad.
than administration, but a year of F&B meat. At 1.30pm, the chef’s team arrives, and
management training prepared him to deal The recipe consists of kangaroo meat, Raphael holds a quick meeting to brief them
with this side of the business, too. lamb fat, Australian shiraz, rosemary, salt on the day ahead. Then the whole team
The JW Marriott culinary team consists and the kitchen’s own mix of white, black, heads to the kitchen to begin their prep
of 140 chefs and 29 stewards. There was pink and green pepper, roasted in-house. work.
a learning curve for Raphael’s team, The chef uses a hand grinder to mix the Later that afternoon, Chef Raphael’s family
but after two and a half years together, meat, since the electric grinder is not big comes by to surprise him. Clement, Raphael’s
they’ve become a well-oiled machine, and enough. one-year-old son, is at home in his dad’s
Raphael a happy chef. He describes it as This process takes him a good 20 to restaurant: today Chef Raphael has some time
a team sport, with each person having an 30 minutes for 3kg of meat, and a lot of to spend with his son, and show him the ropes
important role. elbow grease. He then stuffs this mixture of his job. Raphael is also a talented musician
into washed and salted pork entrails. The and will often let loose his hidden talent,
Roo ‘n Shiraz sausage is cooked for around 10 minutes. busting out a few melodies on the piano.
After his paperwork, Chef Raphael heads Chef Raphael plates freely, no specific At 6pm, service starts. The kitchen opens
to the kitchen. Today, he is sharing one of design in mind, just following the and the show begins. I let myself out discreetly,
his new dishes with us: Kanga Banga, a compositional rule of odds, and adding so the chefs can do what they do best.

SPE
CIAL
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May
MONTH Issue
The Invention
of Pho Cuon
When a particular type of spring roll exploded on the Hanoi streetfood scene,
many people claimed or were claimed to be its inventor. Billy Gray goes in
search of the source of pho cuon. Photos by Trung Del

W
ander amongst the narrow to a picture hanging from the wall in her store
streets of Ngu Xa Village front. It’s of her holding an award in front of
and you'll soon discover the her shop. She proudly explains that she’s been
warm smell of sizzling beef on national television three times to talk about
being wrapped into bite-size rolls with pho cuon: “The people in other cities heard
vegetables, accompanied bya notoriously about it back then and they were interested.
tasty dip made of fish sauce, garlic, chilli ‘What is pho cuon?’ they would ask?”
and herbs — a dish synonymous to the Since then she has built a loyal following
area surrounding Truc Bach Lake; pho cuon. around the world. Mrs Chinh lights up
According to urban legend, the spring- as she recalls: “I have customers from
roll like pho cuon was invented one summer Australia, Japan, Thailand, and they come
night 10 years ago, in a pho restaurant in by whenever they visit Hanoi — one of them
Ngu Xa village. Around a table littered drew me this picture,” she says, revealing a
with empty beer bottles, some customers sketch of her cooking the meal in the back of
were drinking late into the night watching a her restaurant. “He was from the US.”
football match on TV and asked the owner
for some food. When the owner realised Not So Special After All
she’d run out of broth, she decided to Hearing the supposed inventor’s humble
see what she could put together with the side of the story, we then set further into our
remaining ingredients — and using uncut investigation and spoke with some of the
pho noodles as rice paper, just like that that, other restaurant owners in the area.
pho cuon was born. Hung Ben, whose restaurant is around
We spent the afternoon in Ngu Xa village the corner from Chinh Thang explains that:
talking to some restaurant owners, and “Before, there was a lady in this area who
chowing down on the tasty pho rolls. showed me the same thing.” Hung goes on
to explain the very same version of the pho
Wrapping up the Myths cuon yarn that we’d heard about before. It
We began our search at Chinh Thang seems that this dish was around in one form
Restaurant, home of 61-year-old Vu Thi or another before its incarnation on the TV
Chinh. Mrs Chinh is widely considered to be screen.
the inventor of pho cuon and we were eager However long pho cuon has been around,
to hear her side of the story. it appears we will never really know for
“I had a lot of regular customers who sure. It could be said that a dish as simple as
would complain that it was too hot for a this one must have been made in some form
steaming bowl of noodle soup. I would try or another for many years — as Mrs Chinh
this recipe or that, get some feedback and decided back in 2000, it’s just not logical to
eventually people turned all the way to pho be eating a steaming bowl of noodles in the
cuon — that was in 2000.” height of summer.
We ask her about late night revellers and How many times have you put something
running out of broth. She smiles: “That story together with those obscure leftover
is not true. Maybe some restaurants when ingredients and later discovered there’s a
they ran out of broth tried to copy pho cuon.” name for it? Pho cuon is just another logical
As we set off to leave, Mrs Chinh motions step in the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine.

T
his is the second time I’ve been to
Banh Mi Bay, in London’s Holborn
area. And it’s the second time
I’ve sat in this contemporary yet
traditional banh mi café with a glass of café
sua da in hand. It’s not Vietnam. But swap
out the environment and the location,
and the senses on the palate are identical.
From 15 years ago when something that
roughly equated to ‘Vietnamese’ fare
was cooked up by Chinese immigrants
from Saigon’s Cho Lon, to today, where
the taste is authentic, Vietnamese cuisine
in London has come on leaps and
gastronomic bounds.
Sat opposite me is Tra Vinh-born Phan Thi
Anh Loan. Besides being the woman behind
Banh Mi Bay, she also holds another accolade
— Loan was responsible for bringing the
Vietnamese baguette to the UK.
Arriving in England as a refugee when
she was just a few months old, the business
studies graduate and former business
analyst was brought up in Camberwell in
south London. But yearning to leave the
world of corporate business, 10 years ago
she set up her first café — in Camberwell.
“I just wanted a change of lifestyle,”
recalls Loan. “I was looking for different
things to do. But the main reason was
because during that time there wasn’t
anywhere you could go and buy a banh mi.
You had to make it at home. It takes hours to
cook and marinate the meats, and prep all of
your vegetables, and it just seemed a lot of
effort for a few banh mi.”
What finally convinced her were trips to
Paris, where there were a few Vietnamese
shops selling really good baguettes. So,
setting up in South London, and baking the
banh mi in house as well as making xa xiu
(barbecued pork), pate and do chua (pickled
vegetables) on site, Loan was the first person
to bring banh mi to the UK.
The resulting baguette is twice the size of
its Vietnamese namesake, but beyond that,
says Loan, the only difference is that “we use
organic flour and a western flour improver
rather than a Vietnamese one, just so it meets
the standards here.”
Banh Mi for the People

With any new business there is an
unforeseen set of challenges. Yet for Loan,
selling the concept of banh mi to the British
market was the easy part.
“There are a lot of international people
living in the UK and people are open-
minded,” she explains. “There’s also a lot of
international travel and Vietnam is a really
popular destination. So, people knew about
banh mi already. It’s just they weren’t able to
enjoy it because it wasn’t there in London.”
Rather, it was managing staff, health
and safety and “just things that I hadn’t
experienced before” that she found tough.
In addition, customers from all over London
began frequenting the café, imploring her to
set up in town or in other parts of the city —
despite its proximity to Brixton, Camberwell
is not a location accessible to most people in
London.

SPE
CIAL
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May
MONTH Issue
Banh Mi Bay
Slammed at lunchtime and busy at night, Phan Thi Anh Loan’s café, Banh Mi Bay,
is the best known banh mi outlet in London. It also brought the Vietnamese
baguette to the UK. Words by Nick Ross
So after three years she sold the business and opened up in Holborn, The key, she explains, is to introduce new products — Loan does this
a short walk from the British Museum. Since then she’s started a second twice a year — and to concentrate on quality. She adds: “In London, the
café in St. Paul’s, right in town, as well as a take-out banh mi joint in service has to be good as well.”
Fitzrovia near Oxford Street.
Yet it’s not just banh mi that Loan is selling, but a selection of “nice, Obsessed with Coffee
easy, typical Vietnamese dishes” such as spring rolls, banh canh, pho, My coffee is finished and I’m hankering for another glass, but I’ve
bun thit nuong and chicken curry. For the UK, prices are reasonable, already gone through two café sua da. My head’s starting to spin. As we
too. Selling at £6 (VND185,000) a go for the banh mi if you eat in-house chat, Loan mentions that what I’ve just drunk is their own, branded
(takeaway is cheaper), the other Vietnamese fare weighs in at around coffee.
the £7.50 (VND230,000) mark. Add to this a range of weekly specials, “We actually own the Saigon Coffee Company, and we supply this to
where customers can “try dishes from different regions of Vietnam”, other restaurants as well.”
this is tasty, home-style Vietnamese fare served up in a casual yet She adds: “It’s not a major business for us, but it’s something that we
contemporary setting. have a real passion for. It’s very typical of Vietnamese culture and it’s
Yet, as Vietnamese cuisine has become more popular and been inducted just ingrained in how we were raised as well. When we were kids my
into the mainstream, a new factor has entered the market; competition. mum used to make us iced coffee.”
“Because we’re so successful, it attracts other competitors,” says Despite having grown up in the UK, when it comes to her roots, there
Loan. “So, we have new entrants in the market and we have to compete are some things that Loan just can’t get out of her blood. One of them is
with them as well.” banh mi, and the other, naturally, is coffee.

SPE
CIAL
FOOD ov
C M e r St or y S
of the
FOOD
PE
CIAL
May Issue
ONTH
A Day in the Life

of a Street Vendor
Carrying two baskets over her shoulder, Van is a mobile street vendor. Vu Ha Kim Vy and
Bao Zoan spend a day with this purveyor of banh trang tron
V
an makes her living off the street, dried shrimp, dried squid and chilli. tiring, but it works. Her oldest child is now
struggling to put food on the table To make ends meet means carrying 40kg a second-year student taking Environmental
in the name of her family. Doing baskets from 11am to 11pm around the streets Studies at university in Quy Nhon.
so means selling a range of snacks of downtown Saigon. These baskets have Van’s only wish is that she will be able to
from the recesses of her basket, but her key been her only source of income for more than carry these baskets to feed her children until
dish is banh trang tron, cut up rice paper 20 years for her four children and a husband her youngest child, who is now in Grade 7,
mixed with mango, dried beef, quail eggs, back home in Binh Dinh. It's tough, it’s gets to college.
11am. 11.18am. 11.23am.

Van leaves home to start her She gets the first customer. The young Making the dish takes time — five minutes.
normal working day lady orders one bag of banh trang tron Van ties the handles of the banh trang tron
with lots of chilli bag together and hands it to the customer

11.45am. 11.46am.
Another order. Van prepares She adds kumquat juice...
to cut up the rice paper
11.47am. 12.12am.
and two quail eggs to the mixture Van stays a bit longer at her first spot to
wait for her next client. Her baskets
are still laden with snacks

1pm. 1.18pm.
Time to move on. Van heads to Van settles in a new spot. She has a lot of
Nguyen Thai Hoc in District 1 in regulars who know where she’ll be set up
search of more customers at any given time of the day
8.48pm.
It’s now evening and after a day on the
streets in a dozen different places, 9.38pm.
Van reaches Co Giang. She’s made Van sells another portion of banh trang tron.
a fair amount of sales and her The young customer wants to have more
baskets are less heavy dried squid and less mango

10.45pm.
Van waits for more clients. Her baskets
10.22pm. are much lighter now as she has sold
It’s getting late. Van moves to her final pitch quite a lot banh trang tron as well
hoping for a few last minute sales as a range of other snacks
11.12pm.
She’s had enough. It’s been another long day
11.02pm. and she throws in the towel. Van starts heading
Will a few more clients will show up? home. The consolation of spending 12 hours on the
Van waits. Ten more minutes streets is that her baskets are now much lighter
than when she started out

Insider
“‘Graffiti and street art have become a

commercial phenomenon. It’s now socially
and commercially accepted. Back in London,
it’s still very ‘gangsterish’”

INSIDER HANOI
A street artist crew is decorating the streets of Hanoi, to good effect.

Words by Jesse Meadows. Photos by Julie Vola

1 2
3 4
1. Mate Two 2. Alfie 3. Mudrock 4. Phed

“B “This territorial
ack home, you’re expected more closely associated with motorbike
to paint certain things. paint jobs than graffiti on a wall. When the
Here, there’s not a mature
movement. I’ve found
team goes out to paint, they often attract an
older crowd with not much to do but sit and
aggression
the freedom to paint what I want,” says watch for hours. doesn’t yet exist
Matthew ‘phed’ James, a 44-year-old street
artist from London. He came to Hanoi
“They’re literally watching you really
close up. They’ve never seen a spray can
in Hanoi, where
on a whim with an English-teaching
girlfriend, and stayed because he’d found
used artistically, so they’re intrigued,” says
Matthew.
the concept of
a place that wanted to pay him for his art, Sometimes, when the police are called, the street art is still
and a team of artists to make it with.
That crew is Mau Colour, made up of
residents of a neighbourhood will vote, by
a show of hands, on whether or not a piece relatively new,
29-year-old Sam (aka Mudrok) and 25-year-
old ‘Mate Two’ of England, and 25-year-
can stay.
“Here, it hasn’t started as a plague with
and the spray can
old Alfie (aka ETZA) from Edinburgh. In evil connotations like in Europe and America, is more closely
Hanoi’s small-yet-burgeoning scene of street
artists, it didn’t take long for the guys to
where originally, it was sort of criminal.
They don’t quite get it, the residents and the associated with
team up, combining their painting, graphic
design and illustration skills to tackle both
police, and I don’t think they’ve actually got
a charge [for it],” he says.
motorbike paint
personal and commercial projects together. “My friend who lives in Danang has a jobs than graffiti
“There’s so much work. It just seems to
keep coming,” says Sam.
Vietnamese wife, and she’s saved a message
in his phone in Vietnamese that says, ‘Can on a wall”
“Graffiti and street art have become a I paint on your house? We’ll do it for free’,
commercial phenomenon. It’s now socially and people say ‘Yeah, go for it’,” Alfie says.
and commercially accepted. Back in London,
it’s still very ‘gangsterish’,” Matthew says. Loaded
“Yeah, you’re painting, and someone will Of course, the crew must be culturally
pull up in a car and jump out,” adds Sam. sensitive. No painting on government
buildings or pagodas, and definitely no
Intriguing loaded imagery, like political figures or naked
This territorial aggression doesn’t yet exist women. Even the image of an eye can be
in Hanoi, where the concept of street art taboo — the group has a mural on Dang Thai
is still relatively new, and the spray can is Mai where locals repeatedly paint over the

eyes of their characters out of superstition.
The public may just be pleasantly amused
by Mau Colour’s work, but businesses
are seeing the value in it. The group’s
first big commission was the interior of
new megaclub 1900 on Ta Hien in the Old
Quarter, and they recently finished the
longest mural in Vietnam on the temporary
wall around a new international retail
development in Yen So Park.
“We broke it down into 70-metre sections,
so there’s Japanese, Vietnamese, American,
Korean. It was all relating to the culture and
nationality of the businesses there,” says
Sam. In total, the mural covers 400 metres.
With art going out and money coming in,
the group sees another kind of opportunity
for their work. “I’d like to have an area
where we can do [regular] workshops with
kids. You can actually teach quite a lot of life
skills through art,” says Matthew.
The mother of one of his students recently
pulled him aside. “She said, ‘That workshop
made such a difference. My son now looks at
the world in a different way.’ That’s the sort
of lightbulb moment that I love.”
For more info, click on maucolour.wordpress.
com or email mau.colour@gmail.com

Insider

INSIDER NATIONAL
The Latin Underground

Salsa is not new to Vietnam — it’s been here for almost a decade. But now
this much-loved dance form is huge. Words by Emily Petsko and Siân
Kavanagh. Photos by Julie Vola and Rodney Hughes

B
allroom dancing has traditionally
been the most popular form of
recreational dance in Vietnam, but
salsa is shimmying its way into
parks, bars and studios in this country’s
biggest cities.
Now, if you look in the right places in
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, you can find
crowded rooms with couples spinning
and swaying in tandem, their movements
radiating heat and passion for a dance
transported from far-away continents.
Saigon
There is a social salsa evening every day in
Saigon, with some venues offering a crash
course in the basic steps, so you can fake
it until you make it. The salsa community
is organised by a host of people connected
to the five various salsa studios, and social
coordinators through the online presence
via the Facebook Salsa Saigon group.
Will Knight, who organises Salsateka
UK with his partner Marta Bartosz, says:
“In Vietnam there is a strong culture of
family importance that translates to the salsa
community and people really respect that.
There’s friendly competition between us, but
ultimately we’re a family and it’s all about
supporting each other.”
On Mondays and Thursdays there are
salsa and bachata nights at Cuba La Casa
Del Mojito (91 Pasteur, Q1), on Tuesdays
salsa is at The ZFloor (2 Ho Xuan Huong,
Q3), Wednesday salsa is hosted by La
Fenetre Soleil (44 Ly Tu Truong, Q1),
Thursday night at Hard Rock Cafe (39
Le Duan, Q1), Saturday is hosted by La
Salsa, the oldest salsa club in HCMC, at
their studio (212-214 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q3), and Sunday rounds off the week with
Mexican vibes at Khoi Thom (29 Ngo Thoi
Nhiem, Q3).
Salsa dancing shares similarities
with driving in Saigon; both demand a
synchronized chaos from everyone involved,
a long-lasting adrenaline rush, and you’ll
probably end the night sweatier than you
ever imagined possible.
Saigon-style salsa is still in its early stages
comparative to other communities across
the globe but it is certainly distinctive. As
so many different styles are taught such
as Cuban, LA, West Coast and New York,
the Saigon scene has a healthy mix of fact that many social nights are hosted in “I introduced many friends to the salsa
combinations and crossovers. The dancers bars and clubs where non-dancers normally scene, at first they didn’t understand it
in the room may seem intimidating at go to drink, but that is not quite the case and had negative opinions about dancing,
first but the community is brimming with within the salsa dancing scene. but now some of them have even become
passion and enthusiastic to embrace new- “Most people salsa dancing don’t regulars,” he says.
comers with open arms — both literally drink alcohol — not what people Many voices within the social
and figuratively. assume,” remarks Will Knight. “There’s salsa dancing scene have expressed
Many dancers have faced negativity from an assumption that to dance with the disappointment at the new restrictions on
their friends and family after they have passion we have there must be substances Nguyen Hue pedestrian street in District
started dancing on the salsa scene. Owner involved, but serious salseros only drink 1 that will directly impact the community.
of XSalsa and DJ, Luong Thien Chuong, water. The bars don’t make much money One dancer commented: “[Nguyen Hue]
says: “At first my parents didn’t support from us at all.” offered great exposure from the salsa
me, because I quit my job to start XSalsa Friends and family of the dancers have community to people who normally would
back in 2006, but when they see I have full changed their minds after seeing their never see that style of dance before, and it
classes they’re impressed, and I’ve met a lot dancers in action. Nguyen Trong Khoi of gave us a free place to dance.”
of good people.” M.A.N. Mambo remembers when he first The restrictions come as a response to
Some of this negativity surrounds the started dancing. activity on Nguyen Hue which has become

a frequent spot for people to gather, play
music, eat food, dance, skate and socialise
without the drinking pressures of being at a
bar or pub, or pressure to pay for food in a
restaurant.
It is a shame that the salseros are losing a
free, public venue to showcase their talents,
but that won’t stop them from getting
together for hours a week to develop their
art form.
“The salsa community here reflects what
this city has to offer; friendship, liberty, fun
and warmth,” says Nicole Nguyen, a salsera
from Hanoi who has been dancing for three
years. “What sets Saigon style apart is the
freedom and passion [from] the people and
the vibe in here.”

Hanoi anything like it and was mesmerised. “If you dance with the same person over
Hanoi may not be as hot as Saigon, but Despite describing herself as and over again, you get bored,” she says.
you wouldn’t know the difference on the uncoordinated, she decided to enter a “But if you dance with a new guy and
dance floor. A different salsa party rages salsa competition that was being held the you follow him, it’s a different chemistry
every night in the capital; Tuesdays at S-Fire following year. She and her partner learnt between different people. That’s why salsa is
Studio (19 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan), the moves through YouTube. It was rote so addictive because it’s a different reaction
Thursdays at Spring Salsa (22 Ho Giam, memorisation rather than learning the every dance. No dance is the same.”
Dong Da), Saturdays at The Artists (20 Hang leading and following intricacies of salsa, This can’t-get-enough attitude has
Tre, Hoan Kiem), and La Bomba Bar for but it was enough. They won. enabled other establishments to attract
every other day of the week (46 Ngo Huyen, After taking professional lessons and customers by hosting salsa events. The
Hoan Kiem). Many salsa devotees know and earning their stripes, they began giving Artists Jazz Corner is the only place in the
follow the schedule dutifully. lessons for VND5,000 per person — “just city that serves up live Latin music and a
But the most popular and packed salsa enough to pay the rent,” Sao Mai says. They dance floor for salsa parties, which have
nights are held every Friday evening at Beso aimed to popularise salsa, even if it meant been held regularly for the past two months.
Latino, located in the same building as The working for next to nothing. “For our salsa party last week, some
Artists. It wasn’t until many years later that she friends who are Cuban professional
Marika Vilisaar, who goes to salsa parties decided to make it a full-time career. Despite dancers who were in Vietnam for the
up to five days per week, is a regular there. facing pressure from her parents, who used Latin Professional Dancing Festival came
“It’s like Alice in Wonderland,” she says to think dancing was a waste of time, and by our pub,” says owner Tran Khue Anh.
of the atmosphere at Beso Latino. “You go from her then-husband, who persuaded her “When the music started, it blew their
to the elevator and then the elevator door to stop dancing for two years, she quit her minds. They were surprised that Vietnam
opens and a totally different world opens high-up position in a Vietnamese company has a professional Latin band played by
up. It has a really beautiful vibe, people and founded Beso Latino in 2014. She works Vietnamese.”
are dancing amazingly. They just enjoy the alongside her original dance partner and However, The Artists is the exception
moment and that’s what I love about it.” also her new husband, whom she met, rather than the rule. Sao Mai says
Encouraged by the large turnout, the naturally, through salsa dancing. Vietnamese tend to prefer dancing in a
studio opened a second salsa party on They hold classes every day, and teach comfortable atmosphere like a studio, and
Saturday afternoons. about 400 students in the Los Angeles few bars are willing to host salsa nights
Do Sao Mai, the spunky, short-haired style, which is most popular in Hanoi. because they don’t profit much from serious
owner of Beso Latino, remembers the Now, many Vietnamese are switching from dancers who only drink water.
date well; Sep. 4, 2004. It was perhaps the ballroom dancing to salsa because it’s a more Apart from the sensuality and glamour,
first time Hanoi held a social salsa event, flexible dance that doesn’t require strict the endorphin rush is what keeps salsa
organised by the vice-ambassador of the memorisation of the moves. It’s also more dancers chasing the next dance floor, next
Swiss embassy. Sao Mai had never seen exciting as a social activity. partner and the next beat.

Insider
INSIDER HCMC
Saigon Pool Tour

During a hot month, Jon Aspin set himself a challenge; visit as many hotel pools as he
could in one day. It wasn’t easy, but somebody had to do it. Photos by Rodney Hughes
Sofitel Saigon Plaza

19th Floor, 17 Le Duan, Q1
6.47am
“You’ve got to get out of bed early if

you want to achieve greatness”
S eemingly perched on top of this city,

the Sofitel rooftop pool delivers a view
of District 1 that is the envy of others.
The elliptical shape of the 15m shallow
pool is itself relaxing, and is surrounded
on all sides by loungers that despite the
early hour of our visit, were being used
by guests. Chilled tunes add to the breezy
vibe, transporting you quickly to a place
where all things seem possible, and where
your life is going well.
I got my first few laps of the day in, and
thought about what the poor people were
doing down below. Actually, that’s not true,
but it is something my dad used to say when
confronted with such sublime conditions,
and it seems appropriately inappropriate
here. One down, six to go. Kudos on the
bar, the outdoor table settings and the type
of all-day service you’d expect from a place
like this.
Swimmability: 4 stars
Ambience & View: 4.5 stars
Amenities: 3.5 stars
Access: Book a room or join the gym, otherwise
in house guests only 6am to 10pm

W
ith no rules other than to guide to some of the best pools in Saigon. I’ve
experience as many hotel pools tried to be fair in my appraisal of each, and
as I could in one day, I managed given them a star rating across categories I’ve
to swim in seven of them. That’s invented called ‘swimmability’, ‘ambience
a lot. Only one was strictly for in-house and view’, ‘amenities’ and ‘access’.
guests, and another requires a membership, There are many more pools of course, and
but that doesn’t mean they aren’t worth a few of them are listed at the end of this
writing about. The rest are available at a price piece, so I’d also recommend trying them.
to anyone, so I offer you this incomplete Feel free to let us know what you think.

Social Club — Hotel des Arts
76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
8.22am
“Very hashtag-able”
I n the softer morning light of Saigon,

the infinity pool on the top floor of the
boutique Hotel des Arts is Instagram
gold. It offers the most expansive view of
the city of all the pools I visited, and the
‘edge of the world’ effect is impressive.
On a clear day like we had, I doubt there’s
a better place to see how far the urban
sprawl of Saigon really goes.
At about 12m long, it’s only just big
enough if you’re keen to get some laps
in, but if you’re not Michael Phelps, for
breast-stroking away last night’s excesses,
or simply cooling off, this pool is close to
perfect.
The swim-up bar adds potential, and
would be a nice feature if you were looking
to make a day of it. Unfortunately it’s only
open at night, and the pool is for in-house
guests only, so you’ll have to book a room to
make that happen.
In terms of other amenities, space is at
a premium. This means sun-loungers are
limited and there are no actual changing
rooms, but again, if you’ve done the right
thing and booked a stay, you needn’t have to
worry about this.
Swimmability: 4 stars
Ambience & View: 5 stars
Amenities: 3 stars
Access: Book a room! Open only for guests 6am
to 10pm

Caravelle Saigon
7th Floor, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1
10.37am
“And ‘oft thine did go to Caravelle, my lord”
T his is a well-known daytime retreat for

expats and locals alike. Nicely secluded
amongst a well-established roof garden,
the large free-form pool is available to
anyone prepared to front the VND500,000
ticket. This will get you all-day access to
the gym, pool and first-class changing
facilities, which include a spa, sauna and
steam room.
At a healthy 20m in length, it’s more than
enough to get your swim on, and while it’s
a long way from rush hour on Vo Thi Sau,
many of the regulars do, so don’t expect to
be alone. The pool includes a shallow zone
where families hang out, and a bubble-bath
alcove to float around in.
The always-staffed cabana bar is open
until 9pm, and there are plenty of shaded
loungers at both ends of the deck to chill out
on. The prices here reflect the hotel’s five-
star rating, but for this type of luxury in the
city, the extra spend is well worth it.
Swimmability: 4.5 stars

View & Ambience: 4 stars
Amenities: 5 stars
Access: Open to the public 6am to 10pm
(VND500,000 day rate)
Park Hyatt
3rd Floor, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1
12.48pm
“When in Rome”
L ooking like something Caesar himself

would have been proud to take a bath
in, this large, square pool is very VIP.
Set in an opulent garden, complete with
intimate table settings, it’s no surprise that
this is the most expensive of the pools we
visited; VND1.2million for half-day access
means walk-ins are kept to a minimum.
However, the amenities at your disposal are
definitely what you pay for.
Bar service and food are easily at hand,
too, so if you can afford it, and are looking to
impress your best friend, this could well be
the private getaway for you — just don’t try
climbing the cascading water feature, it does
tend to make the staff nervous.

Amenities: 5 stars
Access: Open to the public (VND1.2 million) for
a half day, 6am to 8pm

Pullman Hotel get that rooftop feel, even though you’re
only six floors up. Open to the public for
6th Floor, 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 VND360,000, that also includes a handy
2.43pm indoor juice bar, gym and gender separate
spa and sauna, with a standard of changing
“Other people’s leisure is my pleasure” facilities you’d expect from a chain like
Pullman.
W ith the afternoon heat in full force,

this was possibly the best pool we
went to for anyone who just wants to get
The mixed international crowd also
seemed ready to mingle, so you’d be hard
pressed to find better value from our list.
their head down and swim. At a good Just remember to bring a good pair of flip-
20m long, and about two-and-a-half flops or sandals — those tiles around the
Olympic lanes wide, this pool is great for pool can get hot.
those combining their stay in town with a
regular fitness routine. Swimmability: 3.5 stars
Having said that, it’s not a bad spot to View & Ambience: 3.5 stars
relax either, and makes the best use of the Amenities: 3.5 stars
available space. With enough loungers to Access: Open to the public for VND360,000,
keep guests and visitors happy, you do 6am to 10pm
Renaissance Riverside Hotel The recliners were busy with a full

complement of sun worshippers when we
22nd Floor, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 were there, and the riverside view you get
4.24pm is unique. The mix of hotel guests can also
make for some interesting viewing, as was
“We like to party” the case on our visit, when we bore witness
to some pretty interesting variations on what
T his pool is strictly for the paddlers

among us, though that won’t stop
the odd noob from donning the cap and
constitutes a modest swimming outfit. It’s
open to the public at VND300,000, but you’re
more likely to come here on a night out, so
goggles. Truly a rooftop pool, and now a if you do, my advice is to dive in and enjoy.
centrepiece of the hotel’s Liquid Sky Bar, The drinks are some of the best in town, too.
it’s the location we went to that seemed
most willing to get the party started. With Swimmability: 3 stars
a bar barely five feet away from its edge, View & Ambience: 4 stars
it’s not uncommon for revelers to end Amenities: 4 stars
up in the water on a big night out at this Access: Open to the public for VND300,000,
venue. I’ve seen it happen myself. 6am to late

The Rex Hotel
Top Floor, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1
5.42pm
“Get in.”
A s the light faded around us, this was as

good a place as any to finish the tour.
This five-star hotel’s rooftop pool is iconic,
worthy of your attention and something
that will no doubt continue to stand the
test of time.
There are in fact two pools at the Rex, the
lower deck tear drop is an often lively family
fun area close to the bar and gym, and the
second tier is a more sedate lapper, that
has you eyeball to eyeball with the Bitexco
Tower.
For VND200,000 the Rex is a great place
to wind up your weekend, and while the
amenities aren’t new, they are more than
getting the job done at this famous sun-
trap. Loungers are in plentiful supply but
with service and a drinks list like this, it’s
no surprise that it remains popular even
with long-term expats keen to soak up the
afternoon rays.

Amenities: 3.5 stars
Access: Open to the public for about
VND160,000 (US$7), 6am to 10pm
Don’t Forget
The swimming pools not mentioned in this
article but certainly worth consideration
include the N EW W ORLD H OTEL ,
Q1 , T HE E QUATORIAL , Q5 and T HE
I NTERCONTINENTAL A SIANA , Q1 . We’d
like to thank all of the participating venues
for their kind hospitality and gracious
acceptance of our request to shoot their
pools.

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER HANOI
Gastro:
Food and Beer Pub
There’s a restaurant and pub in town serving, yes, you guessed it,
cuisine from the UK. Naturally our mystery diner had to check it
out. Here’s the verdict. Photos by Trung Del
W
hen turning onto Hang Non, — barstools with heavy cast iron frames — croutons, salad and dressing. The salad
Gastro Food and Beer is the and ordered some locally brewed light ales is well presented and hits the spot for
place to go for British cuisine served in proper curved pint glasses. The vegetarians and carnivores alike.
that you won’t find anywhere food menu is easy to read, arranged into clear Saving the best to last, out comes the
else in Hanoi. A small door takes you categories, each with half a dozen options; fish and chips. Served on a wooden slab,
into a dark and somewhat dingy-looking starters and pub grub, proper mains, veggie the freshwater fish is a local selection —
corridor that leads to a metal staircase and salads, proper sandwiches and so on. I cod being far too expensive to import into
— the kind you’d expect to find on a can imagine the British Embassy was over the Vietnam. The fish is meaty, full of flavour
container ship. My friend hobbles up the moon when they heard about it. and battered in a way that would make any
stairs, determined to work off her recent English seafront restaurant a little jealous.
motorbike accident. Battered The chips are fat and crispy and the mushy
Once inside we’re greeted by smiling Feeling a little sentimental since leaving the peas are thick, with a creamy texture.
staff and a neat looking room with nostalgic UK six months ago, I settle on a plate full A waitress was there on cue to check if
British-style décor — postcard-like murals of fond memories; battered fish and chips, we needed anything and we left with the
of the classic double-decker bus and Big with mushy peas and tartar sauce, for a clear impression that the whole staff of the
Ben are painted on the walls overlooking reasonable VND175,000. My friend orders restaurant are genuinely passionate about
wooden tables decorated with flowers and the roasted beetroot salad, and crab spring the service that they provide.
little ornaments. At the back of the room rolls to share. As a Brit with a palate for all things
is an open doorway to the bar, and stools The crab spring rolls arrive first. At battered and gravy, I’m glad that there’s
looking out to the busy streets of the Old VND95,000 it’s a decent-sized portion with somewhere in Hanoi that cooks up British
Quarter. noodles and salad on the side accompanied cuisine to a high standard and at reasonable
My friend and I decide to sit out the back, by a flavoursome soy sauce-based dip. prices.
near the bar and overlooking the bustling Next out is the beetroot salad (VND85,000), Gastro: Food and Beer Pub is located at 20
streets outside. We take up two chairs another generous portion, of fresh beetroot, Hang Non, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THE VERDICT
13
FOOD
14
SERVICE
12
DÉCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 — 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 — 12.5
very good to
excellent
8 — 9.5 good to
very good
5 — 7.5 fair to
good
0 — 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word
reviews
anonymously
and pays for all
meals
Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER HANOI
Bun Oc Co Hue
Vietnam has an obsession with eating snails. And one dish that
leaves a long, glistening trail is snails with rice noodle soup.
Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola
W
hile local people deem snails oc in winter or autumn to warm up the body, its lightness and pleasant taste.
to be as much of a staple as it works equally well for springtime or a The snail flesh itself is another plus as the
chicken, beef or fish, for many summer lunch treat thanks to its lightness. cooks here carefully select the fat, medium-
non-Gallic expats, the reaction Of all the small streetside bun oc eateries, sized and yellow-shelled snails. It is these
is simply “Eww!” Bun Oc Co Hue is the one not to be missed. chewy snails that make local people love
Some common reasons are “because Originally the creation of a bun oc peddler the dish.
of its texture” or “food poisoning risks.” working an alley on Nha Chung — after “We bring the fresh snails from paddy
Admittedly, Vietnamese people do not treat two decades in its original location the stall fields in Hai Duong to the city every day,”
snails with the care the French do, yet they recently relocated to a small space on Dang the owner’s daughter says. “The snails are
love eating them. I once remember someone Dung in an area surrounded by second-hand carefully soaked in water derived from rice
writing, “All street foods are chancy” in terms phone shops. washing for one to two days to make them
of food poisoning. So if you can overcome Instead of offering bun oc paired with any clean enough to eat.”
any negative feelings you may have about type of meat or deep-fried tofu like some other Snails are always accompanied by fresh
snails, you won’t be disappointed. stalls, the eatery sticks to basic bun oc, literally tomato, cut into pieces and put on top of
Vietnamese snails come from both snails with noodles and a snail-based broth. the big heating broth pan. Other important
saltwater and freshwater sources. Most Bun Oc Co Hue is particularly well known ingredients in bun oc are a variety of fresh
of the snails people sell around Hanoi are for its delightful and gently spicy broth. vegetables and herbs; lettuce, coriander,
freshwater, culled from paddy fields or The broth here has a moderate sourness, a cockscomb mint, perilla mint, knotweed
ponds in villages in the north. piquant yet pleasant taste, and added to this and basil.
Hanoi’s signature recipes with these kind already complex flavour is their excellent A social dish, the casual way of eating
of snails are boiled snails or oc luoc and snail homemade dried chilli for diners who love bun oc on the street seems to contribute
noodle soup or bun oc. While eating oc luoc the spice. to its flavour and uniqueness. This may
is one of Hanoi’s most popular culinary also explain why the snails, a countryside
pastimes, bun oc is one of the city’s staples, Mint Condition ingredient, come all the way from rural
much like bun ca or bun rieu. Like many other traditional bun oc eateries, waterways to another type of thoroughfare,
Bun Oc Co Hue serves the dish in two styles; the street. With the right ingredients added
Seasonal Medley bun oc nong or snail noodles in hot broth they become a key component of one of the
Bun oc Hanoi is a medley of snails and and bun oc nguoi, in cool broth. While the best loved dishes in Hanoi.
noodles, served in a tangy and slightly first version can burn the tongue, the cool Bun Oc Co Hue is located at 16 Dang
spicy soup, with a mix of local fresh herbs. serving, which is eaten by dipping small Dung, Ba Dinh. A bowl of bun oc ranges from
Lighter, and just as good as bun rieu, bun oc noodle pieces into the cool broth, is Hanoi’s VND25,000 to VND35,000. The eatery is closed
in Hanoi is ubiquitous. While people eat bun favourite dish during the summer, thanks to on the 1st and 15th of every lunar month

Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER HCMC
Sushi Hokkaido Sachi

Mixing Western cuisine with Japanese, our mystery diner heads to Dong Du for a date
with Sushi Hokkaido Sachi and their outstanding foie gras. Photos by Bao Zoan
O
ne of the more amazing traits Conservative Orders from a standouts, our wagyu yukke (VND209,000)
of modern Japanese cuisine is Moderate Menu essentially beef tartare renamed in
how they have adopted fusion, Our order at Sushi Hokkaido Sachi Japanese. The delicate, creamy flavours
adapting from and to nearly followed this pattern — green tea bloomed together into an amazing swirl
every culture they encounter. From wagyu (VND15,000) and misoshiru soup for two of egg and beef softer and richer than the
beef tataki rolls to sashimi to grilled beef (VND15,000 each.) My girlfriend stayed quail egg yolk, laced with satiny fat.
with leeks to udon Bolognaise, sushi style true to her chawanmushi (VND35,000) from So good it was that we immediately
in particular has enfolded the prestige which I always steal a bite or three. The ordered its nearly identical twin on the
cuisines of Europe. Even wilder fusion soup tasted fine, a touch salty, but the menu, the third standout of the night,
places exist, daring explorers of the chawanmushi was a dream of cloud-soft the wagyu nigiri (VND189,000.) Oh, and
globe’s ingredients and flavours. eggs and delicate sea flavours braced by another maguro sashimi just for laughs.
Sushi Hokkaido Sachi toes these lines; a powdered red pepper.
semi-traditional sushi place in Ho Chi Minh The next courses arrived in a rush — The Michelin Moment
City with a restrained but excellent selection maguro sashimi (VND109,000), a terrifically Then came the Michelin moment; the
of Western foodstuffs in full Japanese dress. low price for the quality of the local fish foie gras aburi nigiri (VND149,000 for two
Neither modern nor traditional, they display and toro salmon sashimi (VND129,000), pieces) which was so absurdly good we
flashes of brilliance atop a foundation of another great bargain; a dish of salmon ordered and reordered. This was perhaps
fresh ingredients, creative presentation and belly surrounded by blossoms and a the best foie gras I’d ever eaten, atop a
strong service. massive sea-shell. None of the fish blew bullet of sushi rice and tied with a string
That said, the difference between out our taste buds, but all of it arrived of seaweed. The flavours joined amazingly
their winning dishes and their role well-cut and well-presented, fresh and well, but the simply seared lobe of duck
foods was striking. My date and I order delicate. liver caressed my mouth with butter and
sushi conservatively: salmon and tuna; beef-marrow flavours, a flash of sweetness
occasionally oysters, octopus or yellowtail; A Momentary Perfection almost like balsamic vinegar minus any
occasionally Western-derived dishes. With the fish came the second of the four acidic bite, a gentle wave that lingered

THE VERDICT
13.5
FOOD
12.5
SERVICE
on the palate with an unbelievably long

finish, delicate, buttery, almost nutty.
By far the best dish of the night, it stood
11
out so much against the miso soup, the
salmon, the perfect chawanmushi, even the
many courses of wagyu beef. DÉCOR
Room for One or Two More
Still able to fit food in our bellies, we
selected one last dish: tokachi gyu sumiyaki
(VND195,000), artistically arranged cubes
of beef that we grilled ourselves. Being Food, Decor and
carnivores, we opted for a quick sear on Service are each
the outside and blood inside, totalling rated on a scale
three courses of raw beef for the night, a of 0 to 15.
personal record.
13 — 15
Finally, dessert; shiratama zenzai
(VND59,000) or red-bean dumpling sweet extraordinary to
soup, for the lady. For me, ice-cream perfection
parfait (VND89,000) which was good 10 — 12.5
enough that I briefly considered ordering very good to
another, as we’d done so many times. excellent
8 — 9.5 good to
Crowded but Serviceable very good
The place was packed — we waited 45
minutes for two bar seats. Service was… 5 — 7.5 fair to
serviceable. Although in fairness they were good
very busy. 0 — 4.5 poor
Sushi Hokkaido Sachi has the glass- to fair
fronted fish bar, wooden-slate construction
and shoeless short-legged tables many The Word
quasi-traditional sushi restaurants opt
reviews
for. And overall the place really is pretty
good and deserving of the large number
anonymously
of clientele. But as for their amazing foie and pays for all
gras… Now that was in a different league. meals
Sushi Hokkaido Sachi is at 40-42 Dong Du,
Q1, HCMC
Food and Drink
STREET SNACKER HCMC
Know Your Com Tam

If there is any dish that is a Saigon icon, it’s com tam. But what’s the
background behind this local favourite cooked up with steamed ‘broken’ rice?
Words by Vi Pham
I
f there is any Vietnamese dish that tasted better. In the past, only the wealthy on a single plate. And being on a plate, diners
makes southern Vietnam, especially could afford to eat tam with their meal. don’t use the more traditional bowls and
Saigon, different from other parts of the Fast forward a century and tam is no chopsticks to eat their rice, reverting instead
country, it must be com tam, also known longer such a luxury. Harvested rice crops to spoons and forks. To me, this is a symbol
as broken rice. Even though in Saigon, go straight into the mill and farmers leave of the country changing from a collectivist
com tam is eaten as much as pho, not many all the work to the machines. Though this society to a more individualistic one.
people, including Vietnamese, are aware quickens the process, there is no longer a As com tam is so popular, you can find it
of the background of the dish. And as a demand for quality tam and instead the seed almost everywhere in Saigon. However, I
person who’s grown up eating com tam tips get mixed with above broken bits of the recommend street restaurants where you can
almost every day, I feel the urge to dig grain. All these factors lower the price but watch the sizzling pork chops being grilled
deeper into the narrative behind this recipe. also diminish the real taste of tam grains. on burning charcoal, creating an aroma that
As I discovered, a plate of com tam contains can trigger all your taste buds; prices vary
more historic and cultural stories than I had A Plate of History and Culture from VND20,000 to VND40,000 a plate.
thought possible. Despite the change in quality, com tam still Not too greasy, fattening or sweet, com tam
plays a major part in the history and culture is an excellent choice at any time of day.
The Not-So-Broken Rice of Saigon. A plate of com tam contains many Thanks to Dr. Han Nguyen Nguyen Nha for
A typical plate of com tam consists of tam stories. providing valuable materials to help write this
(the rice), suon nuong (grilled pork ribs), In the past, when the price of tam became piece
cha (Vietnamese pork pie), do chua (pickled more affordable, com tam was sold on the
veggies) and nuoc mam (sweet fish sauce). street for breakfast and lunch. Most customers
Tam is the essential part of the dish and were workers who could not make it home Where to Get Good
also the reason for the name since other
ingredients can be up to the diner. Despite
to eat with their family. Eventually, the dish
became so ubiquitous and popular, that
Com Tam
the popular belief that tam are broken and Saigonese started eating com tam for dinner.
valueless pieces of the rice seed, it is not true. After pho, com tam is the people’s choice C OM T AM 40A
In contrast, tam originally implied the most for price and availability, and over time, 40A Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC
valuable part of the seed. vendors have moved from mobile stands to
In the past, after harvesting, farmers would settled restaurants. Over the past decade, C OM T AM 114
collect and separate the straw and the good com tam brands have sprung up — Thuan 114 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, HCMC
seeds, filtering the bad ones and the eatable Kieu is perhaps the most famous — and
grains. Freshly harvested seeds had to be have begun differentiating themselves with B A G HIEN
brayed by hand to remove the husk. During many twists in the way the recipe is served. 84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan, HCMC
this braying process, most of the seed would Com tam also reflects the changes in
stay in its original shape. But the tip of the society and the impact of Western culture in C OM T AM T HUAN K IEU
seed, which is the most nutritious and can Vietnam. Instead of the traditional meal in 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC; 138
potentially grow into another rice crop, would which all dishes are laid out and shared by a Nguyen Thien Thuat, Q3, HCMC; 46 Dinh
occasionally fall out. That was the real and group of diners, com tam is more individual Tien Hoang, Q1, HCMC; 114 Yersin, Q1,
original tam — when it was cooked it always with all ingredients prepared for one person HCMC
Travel
TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL
Club Med
The granddaddy of exotic
vacation resorts is
spreading across Asia.
Jesse Meadows flew into
Singapore to make the
quick hop across the
Singapore Strait to Bintan
in Indonesia.
F
irst things first, I’m not the all-
inclusive type. I’m more of the
same-shirt-for-a-week, $3-dorm-
bed kind of traveller. So when I
found out I was going to the Club Med on
Indonesia’s Bintan Island, I borrowed a
pair of flowing pants and a carry-on with
wheels and set off to try and fit in.
Club Med is the original all-inclusive.
In 1950, Belgian water polo player Gerard
Blitz founded the first club on the island
of Majorca. It was just a handful of young
travellers in beach huts then. In 1961, Baron
Edmond de Rothschild had a lovely stay at a
Club Med and decided to buy the company.
Funded by the Rothschild family’s
wealth (the largest private fortune in the
19th century), the company expanded,
opening ski resorts in Switzerland and beach
destinations in the Caribbean. Today, Club
Med has 71 villages all over the world, and
even a cruise ship.
In the early 2000s, the company adapted
to market changes, shifting their focus to
the upscale market and family-oriented
holidays. After a two-year bidding war, Club

Med was bought out by Chinese company itinerary for the next day read; sailing, aqua all with easy-to-follow moves and very
Fosun International in 2015 for a cool $1.07 fitness, archery and yoga, in that order. high energy. It’s sort of like your cousin’s
billion, and are now looking to tap into Unfortunately I only made it to the fifth wedding reception, except much more
Asia’s growing tourism market. activity, which was “cocktails”. organised.
What makes the Club Med experience This is all aimed at the kids, of course.
The Art of Happiness unique are the GOs. They’re essentially Keep the kids happy, and the parents
The concept here is simply; happiness. And summer camp counsellors, and their job is to can relax. GOs often form long-term
it’s hard not to be happy when everyone mingle with guests, entertain the kids, and relationships with their return guests; Pym
around you is smiling. This is the strategy create a fun ambience. If you sit down to eat told me that one family in particular has
at Club Med, where you can’t walk a metre alone here, it will only be a minute before a been coming back for so long, she’s watched
without encountering sparkling eyes and a smiling GO approaches, asking if they can their kids grow from toddlers into teenagers.
full spread of shiny white teeth. join you for lunch. After everyone is thoroughly warmed up,
It’s downright infectious, from the At our first dinner, we were joined by this family-friendly dance party ultimately
moment you exit the giant Club Med coach Pym, a 31-year-old from Thailand who has segues down the hall into their theatre,
bus (to the tune of Pharrell’s song, Happy, worked in Club Med resorts for eight years, where the GOs put on a choreographed
of course), the resort’s Gentils Organisateurs and Maho, from Japan, who was a guest dance show every night. Every GO has three
(GOs) greet you with smiles, wine glasses in many of the club’s resorts before finally to four shows in their repertoire, and they
and lavender-scented towels. getting a job at reception. rotate throughout the week, so guests always
“Check into your room, relax. Have some “How do you not get fat here?” I asked have fresh entertainment.
lunch!” they said, so I made my way to the Pym incredulously, bewildered by all the Everyone participates in the shows, even
first of many buffets. At Club Med, there’s choices at the enormous dinner buffet. She the Chef de Village (Club Med-speak for
one around every corner. An open-air laughs. resort manager), Jessie. At 33 years old, she
beachside buffet, a barbecue in the sand “We dance! Dancing is part of the life.” is one of the only female chefs in the entire
buffet, a massive food hall dinner buffet… company. When I asked her why she’s
all fully-stocked with international fare, from Dance For Life worked with Club Med for almost a decade,
tikka masala to beef wellington. After dinner, I found out what she meant. she replied simply: “I love people!”
I guess all that food is necessary energy Every night at the bar, the GOs lead guests And of course, the opportunity to travel
for the long list of activities available. Our through a series of group line dances, can’t hurt, either. Pym has now worked at
“‘How do you not get fat here?’ I asked Pym incredulously, bewildered
by all the choices at the enormous dinner buffet. She laughs. ‘We dance!
Dancing is part of the life’”

“The concept here is simply; happiness. And it’s hard not
to be happy when everyone around you is smiling”
Club Meds in Malaysia, China, Japan, the This Club Med also features a trapeze and several tours in Iraq with the US Army, he
Maldives, Thailand and Indonesia. It’s not a trained circus team. Every day they teach was led to reassess his career.
a bad business plan, really — move your kids and adults alike how to swing through “I asked, what am I doing with my life?
employees around every six months so they the air and bounce down onto the net below. Am I making people happy?” he said. He
can tell guests first-hand about the unique And once a week, the team puts on a special may only get one day off a week, and he
features that other locations offer. circus show, featuring aerial silks and may work early mornings and late nights,
juggling tricks. There’s also the Mini Club, but now, instead of firing missiles, he’s in
Golf, Circus and Missiles where GOs entertain the kids with activities the business of making people smile.
In Bintan, a huge draw is the “Best Golf like tie-dye workshops and soccer games, For more info on Club Med, contact Exo
Course in Asia”, Ria Bintan, 27 holes with while mom and dad lounge by the pool. Travel, 41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC, Tel: (08)
ocean views, just a short drive outside In truth, I didn’t do very well blending in. 3519 4111 or email saigonagency@exotravel.
Club Med. The resort has its own in-house I should have probably brought a couple of com. Alternatively, contact Exo Travel in Hanoi
golf shop, and can arrange trips for guests. kids. But I did find friends in the staff, who on (04) 3828 2150 or hanoiagency@exotravel.
I’m not much of a golf enthusiast, but I were more than happy to have a drink with com. In Asia, Club Med have holiday villages
did get to drive the golf cart, and it was a me whenever I asked. On my last night at in China, Indonesia, Thailand, Japan, Malaysia,
lovely jaunt through serene forests and lush Club Med, I sat by the pool with Jasper, the Maldives and Mauritius. Check them out online
greenery. Club’s assistant restaurant manager. After at clubmed.com

Travel

TRAVEL NATIONAL
Phu Yen
Even though Vietnam has a coastline literally thousands of kilometres long,
finding unspoilt beaches is increasingly becoming a challenge.
Vu Ha Kim Vy goes in search

E
ver since Vung Tau, Phan Thiet
and even Nha Trang became full of
tourists and concreted over, trying
to find an unspoilt beach has been
increasingly hard. There’s just too much
money to be made from this country’s
coastline. But thanks to photos of Phu Yen
Province taken by my brother on a trip
one week earlier, and to Vietjet Air for
offering cheap flights, I headed straight up
to this forgotten area of Vietnam just north
of Nha Trang.
Tuy Hoa Airport was originally a US-built
military air base which was abandoned for
over two decades in 1975. In 1996, it greeted
its first domestic flight from Ho Chi Minh
City, operated by Vietnam Airlines. Now
it’s used for both military and domestic
purposes. I landed in Tuy Hoa around 9am
and quickly got on the bike that had been
delivered to the airport. As the airport
is situated to the south of Tuy Hoa, the
province’s main city, I headed south on the
first day.
The Southern Coast

Heading south there are few tourist
attractions — the only standouts are Mui
Dien and Vung Ro Bay. Mui Dien is around
24km away from Tuy Hoa and 5km north of
Vung Ro Bay. It was an easy ride, as the road
is in good condition and the signposting is
clear.
To reach Mui Dien, I passed through
Ngang Pass with mountains on one side
and the ocean on the other. Enchanted by its
beauty, I pulled my bike over several times
to take photos. My watch showed just after
11am as I bought a VND10,000 ticket to get
inside Mui Dien.
“You can leave your backpack here and
you should take a bottle of water while
climbing up to the lighthouse,” advised the
woman in the ticket booth.
The lighthouse was built in 1890 by the
French. Coloured grey, it’s 26.5m high and its

operation was started and stopped several The City Mang Lang Church
times before officially returning to daily use Tuy Hoa is a small city, the same size as
in 1997. It is also the most easterly point in one district of Ho Chi Minh City. The land Lying 3km from the highway and 35km
mainland Vietnam and the first part of the on which it was built was formed from silt north of Tuy Hoa, this gothic church was
country to catch the light of sunrise. flowing downstream on the Da Rang River. built in 1892 by French missionary Father
I walked around the lighthouse feasting According to Vy, my university classmate Joseph Lacassagne — the area was the
my eyes on the views — the white sand from Tuy Hoa, the best way to enjoy the city native parish of Blessed Andrew of Phu
dunes of Bai Mon in the distance, the rocky is through its food, although she also asked Yen, beheaded in 1644. Since the day
mountains, patches of jungle, palm trees, the on Facebook if I’d checked out the Cham that Blessed Andrew was beatified by
turquoise sea and the occasional silver-white Tower on Nhan Mountain. Pope John Paul II in 2000, the church has
waves. It was stunning. It took only 10 minutes to get to Nhan held his feast day and become a place of
Leaving Mui Dien I headed south to Vung Mountain. As bikes are allowed to drive pilgrimage every Jul. 26, the anniversary
Ro Bay. As I turned a corner, once again through, I didn’t need to work up a sweat of his death.
my jaw dropped as the landscape unfolded reaching the top. The Cham Tower was The church is also home Alexander de
in front of me. Mountain after mountain built in the late 11th century and is said to Rhodes’ Cathechismus in Octo dies (The
embraced the sea and boats ran back and be the result of a competition between a Catechism explained in Eight Days) in
forth from the shore carrying tourists to fish Cham general and a Vietnamese military Latin and Vietnamese (quoc ngu). Printed
farms floating on the sparkling water. There commander. At the top, the whole city lays in 1651, de Rhodes was a missionary
was something picture postcard about this itself out before your eyes, with an endless who learnt Vietnamese in six months and
place, and for a moment, a fleeting moment, skyline and miniature houses and streets. was the creator of the Roman script that
I thought I should pack up everything, leave Vy also gave me a list of must-eat dishes is used today. The book is stored in an
the big city and settle in this untouched, in Tuy Hoa including one-day dried beef, underground vault in a hill next to the
secluded enclave of Vietnam. steamed mackerel, oyster porridge and church.

chicken rice. Although the hotel manager looked like both a giant beehive and a pile Information
had told me that most of the chicken rice of stone plates surrounded by cacti. It was
places only opened during the day, I went also full of tourists. Knowing that I couldn’t H OW TO G ET T HERE
out to try my luck at around 7pm. Tuy Hoa take any better photos than my colleagues Vietnam Airlines and other airlines
is cold at night, and my long-sleeved t-shirt and given that it took nearly 10 minutes for including Vietjet Air and Jetstar have
didn’t help me much for the 2km drive me to get a shot of the place without any flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi
from my hotel to the centre. The manager tourists wandering into my viewfinder, to Tuy Hoa every day. Buses and trains
was right, nowhere was open. I ended I quickly gave up. Yet as I was leaving I offer another option for those who have
up resorting to a plate of chicken rice for noticed a lighthouse standing on the beach more time. Visit vietnam-railway.com for
VND20,000 at a street food stall. opposite. I like lighthouses. trains and vexere.com for buses.
“It doesn’t have a name, people here just
Forgotten Beaches call it Bai Da (Stone Beach)”, said a street W HERE TO S TAY
There are two ways to go north to Xuan vendor while handing me a ca phe sua da. If I Tuy Hoa has a wide range of hotels and
Dai Bay, you can either follow National gave Ganh Da Dia two stars for its beauty, I guesthouses that are mainly located on
Highway 1A or the beachfront road. As would give five stars to this nameless beach, Hung Vuong Boulevard. You could either
I wanted to see Bai Xep, Ganh Yen, Bai mainly because of its absence of tourists. stay at the five-star CenDeluxe Hotel (2
Phu Thuong, Bai Tram and Ganh Da Dia “You should go to Xuan Dai Bay through Hai Duong), the four-star Kaya Hotel
(meaning Stone Plate Bay), I chose the latter. Cau Go (Wooden Bridge) as it’s quicker (238 Hung Vuong) or get more basic at
The beachfront road is largely untouched, and the views are stunning,” continued the Khanh Hoa Hotel (625 Hung Vuong) for
taking you through Vietnam as it would vendor. Cau Go is handmade from small VND150,000 per night.
have looked 50 or even 100 years ago. wooden planks and only about 1.5 metres
Mountains, lakes and rice fields were on wide, crossing the Phu Ngan River. Driving W HAT TO E AT
one side giving a fresh and cool feeling across it is scary. Com ga (chicken rice): Thien Huong
while the ocean breeze blew across from the Xuan Dai Bay is a 13,000-hectare piece of (211 Le Thanh Ton) or Tuyet Nhung (189
other. In parts isolated and silent, you could coastline stretching from Tuy An District Le Thanh Ton)
hear the ocean waves crashing against the to Song Cau town, and is formed by the
shore. 15km-long Co Ngua Mountain Range which Banh canh he (noodle soup with chives
Bai Xep, where the movie Hoa Vang Tren runs into the sea and creates a peninsular. and fish cake): 32A (32A Le Trung Kien)
Co Xanh (Yellow Flowers On Green Grass) Listed as a ‘National Relic’ in 2011, despite or street vendor at corner between Le Loi
was filmed, has become a phenomenon its rise to ‘natural beauty’ prominence, the and Phan Dinh Phung.
after last year’s release. There was even a place remains raw. Mountains shoot into
signboard mentioning the movie placed the sky, palm trees and rocks embrace each Banh xeo (crispy pancake): Banh Xeo
on the road leading to the beach. Like other, and an archway forms over a strip of Le Thanh Ton (20 Le Thanh Ton)
other beaches in the area, Bai Xep is worth white sand.
visiting for its crystal-clear water, pristine Surrounded by beach after empty Nem nuong (grilled pork meatballs):
white sand and sense of solitude. white-sand beach, this undiscovered patch Nem Nuong — Cha Dong (92 Nguyen
Since Ganh Da Dia is the main topic of of central Vietnam is so enticing that as I Cong Tru)
conversation every time someone mentions headed to the airport for my flight back to
Phu Yen, I wanted to check if it really was Saigon, I knew that the last place I wanted Seafood: The seafood area is along
what people had been saying. To me it to go was home. Bach Dang

Travel
TRAVEL NATIONAL
The Private Island

Somewhere off Phu Quoc is a privately owned island that, if you’re lucky
enough, might just be open for a visit. Jesse Meadows discovered that despite
the growing debris in the surrounding seas, here the water remains crystal clear.
Photos by Trung Del

H
on Gam Ghi is an island south of job). The three of us sat on the top deck of down there, and I needed to discover them.
Phu Quoc, surrounded by coral a boat that could have easily fit 50 people, So I put on my goggles and what I thought
and majestic rock formations. It taking in the serene blue waters around us, was enough sunscreen and splashed into the
was bought by the owners of La making small talk about what colour we water.
Veranda resort years ago, and is inhabited would paint a boat if we had our own. Unfortunately, all the corals close to the
by one Vietnamese family that has lived shore are bleaching, whether it be from the
there for generations. The father took a Crystal Clear abnormally warm waters of El Nino, or the
wife from another island, and they now On the way out of the port, the captain hands and feet of local fisherman who were
have two sons, who help them preside pulled up to a large floating raft and stepping all over them in search of shellfish.
over the land and act as security for the bought a bucket of live sea urchins for us, There wasn’t as much trash as I’d expected,
resort’s special private tours. their pointy spikes wiggling slowly like thankfully, but I did find a backpack in the
And these tours are extra special. something from another planet. Twenty sand that had been reclaimed by algae and
“Exclusive” is probably a better word. The minutes later we were scooping their salty resourceful fish, and a few beer cans.
resort charters one large fishing boat for a insides out on the boat deck — my first taste Annia tells me that much of the trash
couple or a family, and ferries them about a of the ‘sea porcupine’, as Trung called it. comes from strong tides in the Gulf of
45-minute ride south of Phu Quoc to Gam When we pulled up to the island, my sole Thailand. For some reason, she says,
Ghi. On this trip, our photographer Trung thought was snorkeling. The water is so hundreds of flip-flops tend to wash up
and I were accompanied by Annia, who clear that you can see straight to the bottom, from nearby Cambodia. To counteract
works in guest relations (and gets to take and large dark masses dot the sand all this, La Veranda, along with many other
epic private island trips as part of her day around. I knew there were whole ecosystems local businesses, are now actively taking

part in the ‘Keep Phu Quoc Green and
Clean’ programme, supporting community
initiatives to clean up their beaches and
natural landscapes.
Under the Sea “The water is so clear that you

“The good stuff is out there,” Annia told me,
motioning far out past the rocks. So I swam
can see straight to the bottom,
until the brown reef turned colourful, and and big dark masses dot the sand
the formations got massive.
I felt like a mermaid, just barely skimming all around. I knew there were
over the top of the tallest masses, then
diving into canyons between huge yellow,
whole ecosystems down there, and
purple and blue corals on either side. Crabs
scattered under rocks at the sight of my
I needed to discover them”
shadow and bright parrotfish stared up at me
curiously. I knew my pale skin was burning
in the sun but the water was so cool and the
sights were so interesting that I didn’t care.
Finally I reached open blue water and
reluctantly decided to turn back. The current
was strong out there, and I had to bust out
all the tricks I learnt on my childhood swim
team to fight it, like swimming parallel to
shore across the current, instead of against
it. It took twice as long to swim back in as it
had to swim out, and I’d been in the water so
long that the day had begun to wind down.
After a beer, we packed up and trekked
through the woods to another beach, where
the coral was less thick and the boat could
pick us up. The lone house on Gam Ghi was
there on the sand, and its family sat around
with tea, watching the sun sink.
A beautiful old woman sat in shallow
water with her fishing traps, flashing the
brightest smile at me as I boarded the boat. I
wondered what it would be like to live their
simple, secluded life, waking up everyday
on their own private island.
We waved goodbye, and the boat lulled
me to sleep. When I woke up in the port,
I’d missed the sunset. But it’s okay, because
Gam Ghi’s underwater magic was worth all
my energy.
To get to Hon Gam Ghi, email contact@
laverandaresorts.com or call MGallery by Sofitel,
La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc on for info (077) 398
2988. Trips include a seafood BBQ on the beach. To
see a video on the island, do a search on YouTube

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Travel
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36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Com- their clientele while the ki- 7 types from Classic Room to at VND150,000, plus a cou-
mune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: HILTON HANOI OPERA netic gym and wellness stu- Imperial Suite. ple of double suites from
(04) 6270 6688 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, dio offer an excellent range VND250,000. A place to meet
crowneplazawesthanoi.com Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500 of equipment. Massage and HANOI – MID-RANGE like-minded fold in the Old
This premier five-star prop- hanoi.hilton.com sauna facilities are avail- Quarter.
erty lies beside the My Situated next to the iconic able for guests seeking to
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and a fitness centre in its 24 a Hanoi landmark. With 269 Another boutique hotel to
stories. fully-equipped rooms and NOVOTEL SUITES grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the CARAVELLE HOTEL
suites, there’s plenty for the 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) six rooms here mix contem- $$$$
DAEWOO HOTEL discerning business and lei- 3576 6666 porary and fresh with handi- 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) sure traveller to choose from. novotel.com/9813 crafts and antique. Breakfast (08) 3823 4999
3831 5555 Suites and apartments with is included and in the long, caravellehotel.com
hanoi-daewoohotel.com all the mod cons and attrac- lounge restaurant on the Winner of Robb Report’s 2006

list of the world’s top 100 NEW WORLD HOTEL SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA Tan Son Nhat International from the backpacker’s area. FURAMA RESORT AND
luxury hotels, the Caravelle $$$$ $$$$ Airport. With spectacular SPA
houses the popular rooftop 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) city views and a comfortably- DUNA HOTEL $$$$
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restaurants Nineteen and saigon.newworldhotels.com sofitel.com pool, there is little reason not 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
Reflections. Former guests include U.S. This 20–story building in to choose this shining star. (08) 3837 3699 (0511) 384 7888
presidents — two Bushes, downtown Saigon, caters to dunahotel.com furamavietnam.com
EQUATORIAL Clinton — and K-Pop sen- upscale business and leisure M M M
$$$ sation Bi Rain. An ongoing travelers seeking a classic yet HONG HOA HOTEL
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: event as well as a hotel, contemporary stay in Saigon. HCMC - MID-RANGE $
(08) 3839 7777 New World is one of the best 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
equatorial.com/hcm luxury stops in town. WINDSOR PLAZA Tel: (08) 3836 1915
This massive property boasts $$$ ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON honghoavn.com
seven dining and entertain- PARK HYATT 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: $$ PULLMAN DANANG BEACH
ment outlets, a business $$$$$ (08) 3833 6688 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) SINH HUONG HOTEL RESORT
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a comprehensive fitness cen- (08) 3824 1234 The full ensemble with its kimdohotel.com 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu
tre and spa. The Equatorial saigon.park.hyatt.com own shopping hub (includ- 3827 4648 Hanh Son, Danang
also has an on-site casino. Fabulous in style, prime in ing a bank), fine dining, LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn Tel: (0511) 395 8888
location, everything one a sauna, health club, and $$$ pullman-danang.com
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON would expect from the Hyatt. superb panoramic views of 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, M M M Located on the stunning
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235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: themed Opera restaurants the largest Oktoberfest in lanlanhotel.com.vn HOI AN & DANANG Beach, the stylish Pullman
(08) 3925 7777 have garnered an excellent the region. Danang Beach Resort is
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn reputation, as has the land- THE ALCOVE LIBRARY an oasis of activities and
The five-star hotel and ser- scaped pool. M M M HOTEL AN BANG BEACH RETREAT facilities for the modern
viced apartment complex $$$ An Bang Beach, Hoi An traveller. With an idyllic set-
offers: 14 instant offices, PULLMAN SAIGON HCMC – DELUXE 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, anbangbeachretreat.com ting, this luxury property is
seven meeting rooms, a CENTRE Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 perfect for a family holiday
600-capacity ballroom, spa, $$$$$ alcovehotel.com.vn CUA DAI or romantic beach getaway.
outdoor swimming pool, a 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: CONTINENTAL $ And with extensive function
gym, 24-hour fine dining, (08) 3838 8686 $$$ M M M 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: facilities, Pullman Danang
24-hours room service, and pullmanhotels.com 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 also provides the a great lo-
limousine services. Recently completed on the (08) 3829 9201 HCMC – BUDGET hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ cation for your next incentive
site of the old Metropole, this continentalhotel.com.vn getaway or event.
INTERCONTINENTAL upscale, contemporary prop- This charming old hotel has DANANG BEACH RESORT
ASIANA SAIGON erty boasts 306 signature been fêted in literature and DUC VUONG HOTEL $$$
$$$$$ rooms combining design, in film. In the heart of Sai- $ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh HYATT REGENCY DANANG
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, comfort and connectivity. gon, this is the first choice to 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 RESORT AND SPA
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 Innovative cuisine, a great highlight Vietnamese culture. 3920 6992 1800 $$$$
intercontinental.com/saigon downtown location and high- ducvuonghotel.com danangbeachresort.com.vn Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh tech meeting venues able to NORFOLK HOTEL Free Wi–Fi offered in every Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
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signature dining options, up the mix. 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: staff, clean rooms. This mod- The Hyatt Regency Danang
an innovative cocktail bar, (08) 3829 5368 ern oasis is only a few steps Resort and Spa is beachfront
exclusive spa and health RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS norfolkhotel.com.vn
club, together with luxury 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: Intimate atmosphere and ex-
boutique arcade. (08) 3744 4111 cellent service, this boutique
Joseph’s Hotel
riverside-apartments.com business hotel is located
Situated on the banks of the minutes from famous land-
Saigon River, a 15-minute marks, designer shops, and
scenic boat ride or 20-min- is renowned for its fabulous
ute bus ride from town, steaks at its in-house restau-
LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON
$$$$
Riverside’s complementary
shuttle services take you
rant, Corso. Foreign-run,boutique hotel
3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC right in the city centre. With NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE Next to the cathedral
Tel: (08) 6263 6688 152 fully equipped serviced $$$
lemeridien.com/saigon apartments, the property 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08)
Marking the brand’s debut offers special packages for 3822 4866
in Vietnam, Le Méridien Sai- short-term stay starting at novotel-saigon-centre.com
gon is the gathering place for VND2.1 million per apart- Novotel Saigon Centre has
curious and creative-minded ment per night for a one- a contemporary feel, an
travellers. Located in the bedroom facility. international buffet — The
heart of Ho Chi Minh City Square — a rooftop bar, and
next to the Saigon River, the RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE a wellness centre including a
property is close to the me- HOTEL SAIGON swimming pool, gym, sauna
tropolis's entertainment and $$$$ and spa.
commercial areas, making it 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
an ideal base for exploring Tel: (08) 3823 1117 VILLA SONG SAIGON
the local culture and com- renaissance-saigon.com $$$
munity. Experience this cos- This distinct French architec- 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
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surroundings. mentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup villasong.com
or drop off, a first-floor ball- Deliberately located away
room, and authentic Viet- from the city centre in Thao
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL namese cuisine at the River Dien, this riverside boutique
SAIGON Restaurant. villa-style hotel is a sanctu-
$$$$ ary of peace and calm — a
2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: SHERATON rarity in Ho Chi Minh City.
(08) 3823 3333 $$$$$ Beautiful, Indochine-influ-
legendsaigon.com 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) enced design, a great set-
Immaculate architecture, 3827 2828 ting and good drinking and
spacious rooms, and a fine sheraton.com/saigon dining options make this a Free wi-fi, international breakfast,
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cana and Pan-Asian cuisine. with first–class facilities, an STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL multi-shower, friendly service
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starcitysaigon.vn 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
The newly-built hotel is near

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY
Wanna get out of Vung Tau? Up on Big Seafood comes in all forms in the area around
mountain (Nui Lon) is a French-built Vung Tau. Some of it is fresh, and some of it is
fort overlooking the sea well, erm, fermented
I
find there’s plenty to keep a person “How did you find the last town you
occupied in Vung Tau, but then not passed through?”
every expat would agree with me. I “Oh, absolutely awful. The armpit of the
mean it’s all subjective, innit? One world. Boring people.”
man’s Shangri-La is another man’s “I think you’ll find this town exactly the
Dullsville. Here’s a little parable that same.”
illustrates this point.
Now, every parable has its obligatory wise Attitude Adjustment
old man hanging around the edge of town, And that, Dear Reader, teaches us one thing.
waiting to dispense sage advice to passers-by, Which is… um… I don’t know really. An
so when a traveller approaches Vung Tau on attitude to travel? Or perhaps it teaches us
foot, he spies the old man. that wherever you go, there you are.
“Say, Wise Old Man, how is this town I’m And so back to Vung Tau’s attractions, or
about to enter?” the lack of them, depending on your point of
“Well,” says the WOM, rather pleased he’s view.
been asked for his sage advice on what has
hitherto been a quiet day. “How did you find
By Don Wills Like I say, this city has plenty to hold my
interest most weeks of the year, but what of
the last town you passed through?” the other weeks when I feel the need to get
“Oh, just great! Nice town, friendly out of town for a change of scenery? There
people!” are a number of places I’ve found to escape to
“Well, I think you’ll find this town exactly that aren’t all that far from here.
the same.” Take Long Hai, for example. Half an hour
The WOM then sits back on his heels away from Vung Tau by motorbike, Long
to await the next inevitable traveller. Sure Hai is an idyllic, sleepy beach resort. The
enough, another guy turns up 10 minutes later. broad sweep of its bay is mostly devoid
“Say, Wise Old Man, how is this town I’m of life except for a few fishermen fiddling
about to enter?” around with their nets, and a slow-moving

ENTRY 4: Get Outta Town
Nha Lon on Long Son Island is the home The area to the north and west of Vung Tau
of a religious sect founded by the mystical is a mixture of mangrove, beach, desert
Ong Tran and mountain
beachcomber or two. Spring Into Action oysters that literally melt in the mouth,
The seafood cafes lining the beachfront Here’s another getaway within easy reach oysters to die for. This is oyster-breeding
are mostly without customers, the roads of Vung Tau; Binh Chau Hot Springs. While country. A continuous line of trucks await
without traffic. A pleasant torpor envelops the springs are never going to attract hordes to haul the mouth-watering molluscs away
the township. Once you’ve visited the quaint of visitors, they are a pleasant enough place to Ho Chi Minh City, but there are enough
pagoda nearby, there’s not much else to do, to devote an hour or so to, especially if you of them left behind to stuff yourself to your
apart from sit yourself down at a café by the like to wallow in a mud bath. It’s also an heart’s content, and take a bagful home
beach, listen to the lap of the wavelets, and ideal spot for a picnic. with you.
gaze out at the endless horizon. And another place of interest just 30 Now all of the places I’ve mentioned
Oh, and gorge yourself on delectable minutes from Vung Tau is Long Son Island. have one thing in common. Peace and
seafood, of course. In Long Hai they do Don’t be misled by the word ‘island’; it’s serenity. For me that’s a definite plus, but
a scrumptious dish of small fried squid accessible by road. It boasts an ancient it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. If it’s fun and
stuffed with chopped veggies that I’ve not wooden temple — Nha Lon Long Son — a excitement you crave, go to Ho Chi Minh City.
come across elsewhere, and their prawns are couple of floating villages, and four floating Born in New Zealand, Don Wills lives in
whoppers. restaurants. However, the main attraction Vung Tau. He’s been writing his way round the
A little further up the coast from Long is oysters — oysters the size of saucers, region for decades
Hai before you get to Loc An, there’s a
long, pristine stretch of beach that’s even
more deserted. There are no fishermen,
no swimmers, no beachcombers, no sand "In Long Hai they do a scrumptious dish of
to speak of; nothing but half a mile of
small, crunchy seashells underfoot, and a small fried squid stuffed with chopped veggies
thousand miles of sky overhead. For someone
determined to get away from it all, this is
that I’ve not come across elsewhere, and their
the place to be. Cross your fingers that the prawns are whoppers."
developers don’t get their hands on it.

with a stunning view of the with all-pool villas reflecting bar and meeting room that who opened it in 1995. PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
Travel
Marble Mountains. There the cultural and historical caters for up to 200 del- $$
are 182 luxurious residences legacy of past Vietnamese egates. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
and 27 private ocean villas, dynastic periods. $$ Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
each with a private pool. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham 5135
LA RESIDENCE NINH VAN BAY Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 phong-nha-cave.com
MERCURE DANANG $$$$ $$$$ 7177 The first western-run farm-
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Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, la–residence–hue.com 8222 resort and café with nightly has a great bar and restau-
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mercure-danang.com PHUONG HOANG HOTEL van-bay/destination niscent of the type of places out back and views over-
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well-appointed, Accor- 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 zine voted top hotel of 2006. lands, an international and mountains. Rooms start at
managed property is one of 6736 The location is stunning, on a Asian food menu together VND600,000 for a twin or
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Danang. Kitsch but contem- on beer make up the relax- for five costing VND1.4 mil-
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spa on a lotus pond. Each nation CLUB & BAR victoriahotels.asia A quaint and popular is-
massive room has its own 2.6 hectares of private beach- Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Another beachfront Victoria land guesthouse featuring a
espresso machine, pre–pro- side gardens and villa–style Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) chain, the thatched–roof beachside restaurant, and in-
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indoor and outdoor showers. in traditional native woods, ninhchubay.com are set in exotic gardens with rental, boat trips and tours
this resort offers verandah Enjoy the private beach with an infinity swimming pool, are easily arranged. Discount
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signature Six Senses Spa. massage. Evenings are sub- beauty salon and jacuzzi.
HUE & LANG CO lime at this beach club, soon MANGO BAY
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT to become a fully fledged M M M $$
$ resort. Grilled seafood, Eu- Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
ANGSANA LANG CO Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh ropean sausages, sangria, PHONG NHA Tel: 0903 382207
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Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com- junglebeachvietnam.com infused vodka all make this An eco–friendly approach
mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien On a secluded promon- one of a kind destination. EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE with a gorgeous beachside
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 tory north of Nha Trang, this BAR location, the bungalows are
angsana.com/en/lang_co budget place is all about BLUE OCEAN RESORT $ made of rammed earth, no
Located on Vietnam’s South hammocks, the sea, the $$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang TVs or telephones (although
Central Coast, Angsana Lang jungle and nature. 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
Co commands an unrivalled Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) easytigerphongnha@gmail. sunsets from the beach bar.
beach frontage of the shim- MIA RESORT NHA TRANG 384 7322 com
mering East Sea. Traditional $$$$ blueoceanresort.com.vn A hostel and street-front bar SALINDA RESORT PHU
Vietnamese design encom- Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, life-resorts.com all in one. Has a pleasant, QUOC ISLAND
passes the resort’s contem- Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: airy atmosphere in the bar $$$$
porary buildings and chic (058) 398 9666 COCO BEACH and restaurant area while Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To
interiors. mianhatrang.com $$$$ the 52 dorm beds — four Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui beds to a room — go for US$8 Giang
BANYAN TREE LANG CO NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) (VND168,000) each a night. Tel: (08) 3929 3097
$$$$ $$$ 384 7111 Hotline 0907 99 55 02
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Com- 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: cocobeach.net HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY salindaresort.com
mune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, (058) 625 6900 With charming wooden bun- $$ Set on the sea and only 4km
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 novotel-nhatrang.com galows, a private beach, a Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang away from Phu Quoc Inter-
banyantree.com/en/lang_co This four-star hotel with 154 swimming pool (both with Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 national Airport, Salinda is
Built on a crescent bay, The guestrooms, all with a ter- attached bars) and a French phong-nha-homestay.com inspired by an interplay of
Banyan Tree offers privacy race and sea view. Complete restaurant, Coco Beach con- rustic local heritage with
and unparalleled exclusivity with a pool, spa, restaurant, tinues to be run by those contemporary design. The
PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL

property has 121 rooms and galows and villas promise a corporate travel plans while on real life experiences in Ho Southeast Asia’s top rated
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May 3rd - Oct 31st

DESTINATION ZERO LA VERANDA
L
a Veranda smells like lemongrass. handcrafted cocktails in the sea breeze at Once you find your way through the
It feels like the home of French night. And though it’s easy for these kinds maze of natural hallways, you’ll encounter
aristocrats in 19th-century Vietnam. of treatments to feel too lofty, La Veranda a saltwater pool rippling in the multi-
Fitting, as this Accor-managed, four- manages to keep a foot on the ground. coloured blues of its beautifully-tiled
star resort on a private strip of Phu Quoc’s It’s the little things that make this place bottom, just a hop and a skip from the
Duong Dung Beach was built 12 years ago cozy. Like the kind face that delivers ocean. A sprawling manor next door houses
by a French-Indochine family with four homemade cookies to your door at 7pm, just the bar and the Pepper Tree, La Veranda’s
generations of history in Southeast Asia. to say goodnight. You can take a lavender in-house gourmet dining restaurant,
The resort’s 70 rooms face west onto the bath in your clawfoot tub, then have a drink where you can lounge on a wide terrace in
Gulf of Thailand, which translates into in your own personal backyard, enclosed by candelight, listening to a Filipino band play
idyllic tropical sunsets. greenery and bright birds of paradise. Even against the backdrop of waves crashing on
You will instantly understand what it the landscaping here is intimate. All the the beach. It’s lavish, in an elegant way.
feels like to be a person that uses words walkways are nestled between tall stalks and
like ‘veranda’, enjoys freshly baked bushes, so your walks across the grounds are Intimacy
croissants at the breakfast buffet, and sips secluded and peaceful. Hidden about the grounds are quiet spaces

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
where couples can romance. The staff are special, with kid-friendly welcome drinks, therapy workshops. For dinner, the
happy to set up intimate dinners or private mother-daughter manicures, miniature- resort puts on a rotation of themes, like
celebrations. One man even secretly packed sized resort robes, and even a teddy bear churrasco night, or a Vietnamese street
his wife’s wedding dress and surprised turn-down service. Games of giant checkers food buffet.
her with a renewal of their vows on one of on the lawn and a ‘Junior Executive Suite’ The best thing about La Veranda, though,
these secluded lawns. The resort houses a equipped with toys and game consoles will is its atmosphere. It’s all carefully curated to
functional secret garden too, where they keep the VIKs entertained, so parents can give you the sort of memories that feel like
grow organic vegetables that guests can hit the spa or the sand. a bygone era, and look like movie stills in
pick for their cooking classes, cocktails and A great place if you’re in need of a your mind. — Jesse Meadows
salads. recharge, this summer will also see For more info on MGallery by Sofitel,
Focused on creating ‘memorable a specialised programme focused on La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc, go to
moments’, La Veranda has tailored plans wellness and relaxation. Every day at 8am, laverandaresorts.com. To find out about their
for family time in the summer season. Their you can wake up with seaside yoga, then Inspired Summer packages, click on the special
Very Important Kids (VIK) programme relax with a neuromuscular spa treatment, offers button on the top left-hand corner of the
aims to make 12-and-under guests feel and learn to connect with couples’ touch homepage

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 14: SCIENCE FICTION LANDS OF INDIA
Matt and Nemo pass

through some of the
highest mountain passes in
the world, in North-West
India’s Jammu & Kashmir
region
DAY 247 And it changes behind every mountain. frozen to hold a pen. The guy has to fill out
Manali to… Manali First those pine trees. Then the valley. Then, whatever paper he needs for me.
It’s a bit chilly, but what an awesome drive. archetypal Himalayas. Soon enough, a vast, And I cross this 5,500m high mountain
Such blue sky, snowy peaks ahead and rocky, high-altitude desert. Some stretches pass, cold and sick from altitude, my body
driving through those pine tree forests, in it’s Middle Earth, some stretches it’s Dune. convulsing, my vision triple and blurry and
morning light, incredible. And it’s only been And the road is already closed for the the sun hiding behind the clouds.
25km when I run into a check-post. And the season. No petrol for another 350km, no And I want to tell the world: “Hey, I’m
army guys won’t let me through. people aside from an occasional army still here. I’m small and vulnerable.” In
A drive back to town; a day wasted on tent and a few trucks every now and then this vast, magical and mighty place, where
busy bureaucratic trivialities. And I did passing by. I’m stopping every 10km to hug it’s only Him and me, He seems to have
get the permit in the end, but I’m just so my engine for warmth, crying in pain as my forgotten...
bummed. Second go is never as exciting as frozen fingers thaw again.
the first time. And I really was in my zone. By evening, I may as well have gone a few DAY 250
million years back in time. My mind plays Leh
DAY 248 images of epic dinosaur battles in the canyon A 500m walk to the mysterious, ancient
Onwards below my cliff-edge camping spot, a fruitless Palace. And I take an hour, stopping every
I have to pass the check-post before 6am, if subconscious attempt to distract myself few steps like an old man, out of breath. This
another dumb rule. And seven layers of warm from the uncontrollable cold shivers. altitude is killing me.
clothing on my back but I’m freezing. Would Afternoon. I find a little, peaceful donkey
be useful to have a winter jacket, but I parted DAY 249 sanctuary on the outskirts of town. Ah,
with mine months ago in Lao to lighten my …and Onwards such friendly, pleasant beings they are. This
load... Come on sun, warm things up. I have never been this cold in my entire life. connection with animals, it always draws
Such landscapes. Humbling. Unreal. Stopped by an army check-post. Hand too out a profound reaction in me. I’m not good

with humans. I prefer the company of less seemingly friendly family who, it’s become ceremony taking place in this very ballroom
violent and opinionated creatures. pretty clear, run a scam business preying on long ago, now merely a distant memory of
unknowing foreigners. I see through it but times long gone.
DAY 253 now am getting shunned and can’t wait till To end the day, a Hindu festival. Three
Scam-Fam the morning to leave. tall paper effigies rise high above a huge
After the mystical lands of Ladakh, my crowd in a city square. Firecrackers go off,
expectations for Kashmir are pretty high. DAY 256 fireworks shoot out and one by one, the
Not that it’s not impressive, but Kashmir Jammu effigies of the Hindu demons are engulfed
is more populated and the landscapes There’s an elephant outside my window. in flames, marking the victory of good over
of Ladakh were simply more… ah those And I spend a good 15 minutes chatting with evil. Almost like Burning Man, but without
landscapes of Ladakh were unreal. and trying to comfort him. Warts on his feet the hipsters.
The summer capital of Srinagar. I’m and the rough rope around his back grinding
“greeted” with posters of Mahmoud into his skin. Not that he seems mistreated, DAY 262
Ahmedinejad and anti-American banners apparently cared for by a local temple, but Goodbye India.
quoting Ayatollah Khamenei. The town I feel such pain for those majestic creatures And I’ve completed “the loop”. And I’ve
and architecture here seems more like being used for Man’s selfish purposes. covered so much distance. And I don’t know
what I imagine Pakistan, Afghanistan There’s an old Royal Palace in town, when it passed. A day’s visit to Amritsar and
or the other ‘Stans’ may look like. Pretty overgrown and in disrepair. And I get such its Golden Temple and with three days left
awesome, though the day and night Islamic a rush visiting these places. Old, luxurious, on the visa, passing through Dharamsala, a
lamentations and dark-clothed processions colonial 1800s architecture. Faded, peeling hello to the Dalai Lama, I’m off to Nepal.
in the streets are a bit of a drag. paint; part-collapsed, now-moss-covered For more on Matt’s films and travels, check
And I want to like it. But I get stuck in an staircases. Kids play cricket outside and out the Etherium Sky production blog at www.
awkward arrangement, invited over by a somewhere I see a photograph of a royal EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

Hanoi
Day Tripper: Hanoi / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Student Eye / Bar Stool / Top Eats / Medical Buff
Photo by Trung Del

Hanoi
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP HANOI OIS THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
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A-ROAMING Tel: (04) 6674 0945 (04) 3828 6965
BODYWORKER bbgv.org L’ESPACE This shop’s motto “Western
gkaren@a-roamingbody-
worker.com
The chamber of commerce
for all things relating to the
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
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deep tissue massage, prena-
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(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi sbav-hanoi.org with regular events and cooking, but international
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hand fiction and nonfiction Tel: (04) 3936 2648 ments are made from versa- A wide range of Vietnamese koreanair.com
titles in stock, the shop also Not a movie theatre per se, tile fabrics that are comfort- culinary classes are offered
buys used books and offers but a private film club that able to wear and easy to look in these well-appointed and
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DAY TRIPPER: HANOI THE BUDDHIST MOUNTAIN RETREAT
Billy Gray strikes east

out of Hanoi to Yen Tu, a
Buddhist complex on the
road to Halong
W
hen I decided to escape along Highway 18 towards Halong City, scenery unfolding around us.
Hanoi for some clean air, a a mix and match of busy towns, dusty Littered all around are small trails
friend of mine suggested Yen tarmac and the occasional curious buffalo leading from the road to ornate bridges
Tu Mountain — home to a on the side of the road. About halfway and then into little temples covered by the
Buddhist meditation retreat hidden in the there we encountered a grandiose victory uninterrupted canopy; and not another
mountains about 120 kilometres east of monument and stopped to take some person in sight. We reached the base of the
Hanoi. photos and a well-needed break from mountain path, parked our bikes and set
Waking up at 5.30am, myself and our driving. out on foot to the first leg of the ascent.
photographer, Trung, set off at the crack By the time we finally reached the
of dawn for a three-hour drive to Nui Yen mountains, Trung had sped ahead and in A Feast For Road-Sore Eyes
Tu, equipped with a camera, a bottle of trying to catch up with him on the winding The mountain is home to a number of
water, a notepad and half a dozen Kinh roads meandering into the hills I was for impressive temples, in fact, there is
Do chocolate banh mi. Our drive took us a moment oblivious to the astonishing so much there that it’s impractical to

PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
think you could see it all in one visit. A one of calm and reflection; traditional known that before we climbed halfway up
sprawling complex of pagodas, waterfalls music plays gently in the background under the midday sun.
and untouched forest are connected by while Buddhist pilgrims pray and
a stone staircase that meanders up the make offerings. A heavy mist wraps
mountain like an artery. itself around the rocks surrounding the Getting There
At the peak of the kilometre-high bronze masterpiece and faint smoke from
mountain is Dong Pagoda. Built in 2006, burning incense lingers among solemn From Hanoi head north towards Noi Bai
the structure is made entirely from bronze faces. Airport on AH14. Turn right onto QL18 and
and weighs 70 tons. The craftsmanship Yen Tu Mountain is definitely worth follow the road for 90km until you reach
is truly something to behold, especially a day trip. If the thought of hiking up a Duc Chinh. At Duc Chinh turn left onto
when trying to imagine how the mountain intimidates you then fear not, TL326 and follow for 30km before turning
materials to build it were carried there. there’s a cable car that takes you directly to left onto Yen Tu. The journey takes around
The atmosphere around the pagoda is the top for VND120,000. I just wish we’d three hours. Buses are also available.

THE ALCHEMIST BODY INTELLIGENCE BY KAREN GAY
“U
se your head,” we’ve been functional decisions independent of the neurotransmitter contributing towards
urged when dealing with brain’s cerebral cortex. Furthermore, feelings of wellbeing, is found in the gut.
analytical problem solving, research has demonstrated that the signals The chemicals and nerves in the gut
but as humans we tend to the heart continuously sends to the brain partly determine our mental wellbeing.
over-use our heads. Our lives contain influence the function of higher brain Needless to say, our diet directly affects our
more than mental equations. We are also centres involved in perception, cognition mental and emotional state.
emotional beings, and emotions are felt and emotional processing.
in the body. To illustrate the heart’s far-reaching The Trinity
Recognizing that our intelligence is not power, researchers theorize that the heart’s Recent scientific studies are now
only coming from the brain in our head and autonomic functioning and intelligence is providing evidence to suggest that human
that we have multiple sources of wisdom the explanation for memory and personality consciousness emerges from the brain and
allows us to better understand how we are transfer in heart-transplant recipients. the body acting together, thus pointing to a
wired. holistic model of body intelligence.
That Gut Feeling The direct links between the brain, the
Put Your Heart Into It The enteric nervous system, (ENS), heart and the gut indicate an intricate
Recent studies show that the heart is more embedded in the wall of the gut, works whole-body phenomenon long known to
than a mere pump and has a major role independently and in conjunction with metaphysical and natural healers.
in forming our human consciousness. the brain. The ENS controls digestion and This brings to light an expanded and
Researchers have been exploring the role the plays an important role in our physical deepened awareness of our consciousness;
heart plays in creating emotional experience and mental wellbeing. of the body’s internal physiological,
and accessing intuition. It has been Like the heart, the information flow emotional and mental processes; and
discovered that the heart sends significantly between the gut and the brain is mostly allows for a greater sense of self-awareness
more signals to the brain than the brain one-way, from the gut to the brain. and understanding.
sends to the heart, and that our emotions are Scientific evidence suggests that the Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is
reflected in the heart’s rhythmic patterns. chemicals and nerves in the gut likely a holistic health practitioner practicing in
The nervous system within the heart influence our emotions. For example, Hanoi. For information on the types of services
enables it to learn, remember, and make 95 percent of the body’s serotonin, a provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Hanoi
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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA
THE THERAPIST TRAPPED BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA
Dear Douglas,
Please tell me how to stop worrying. I am
a 25-year-old Vietnamese woman, who
works in Hanoi. My family is from a town
outside of Hanoi. My father is controlling
my life. He is never happy with my
decisions and now I cannot sleep. My
work colleague quit six weeks ago and my
boss still hasn’t hired a person to replace
her. I have to do the work of two people
and have no free time for myself. I want
to quit and find another job, but my father
says I should stay where I am. He doesn’t
care if I am exhausted and bored with life.
What should I do? How can I have less
stress? I think my future will be unhappy
because I cannot live my own life.
— Trapped
Dear Trapped,
I can tell that you are feeling lots of intense
feelings… frustration, anger, fear and
helplessness. Those feelings have become
so strong that they are affecting your
ability to sleep, which is something that is
important to feeling OK.
I think you are feeling trapped because
you can’t seem to feel more calm and trust
that these problems will find their own
solutions. So the most important thing is to them to be less intense. Look on YouTube.
to work on becoming calmer. The problem with intense feelings is There is a lot we know about what helps
Your mind tells you that you have to that we make decisions to escape from people sleep when they are having a hard
solve the problems in order to become them. We react to our situation, rather time. Learn what is best to do when you
calmer, but I think works the opposite than respond. There is a difference. When cannot sleep. It includes how you get
way. First, work on slowing things down we react, we make decisions that are often prepared for a night’s rest, what you do if
by acknowledging your feelings… of not well thought out and we sometimes you are lying in bed worrying or having
course you are frustrated and angry. Of regret what we have done. When we ruminating thoughts, and what not to do
course you are fearful and worried. Of respond, this happens when our emotions when you are awake in the night… i.e.
course you feel helpless when your father are balanced with our thoughts and our watching a video screen.
doesn’t allow you to make decisions for values, and we can trust the decisions I suggest you go to meet with a
yourself or tries to control your life too better. psychotherapist to help you with all
much. It is important that you take a time-out of this. It might take a few sessions to
We don’t want your feelings to be from the pressure you are under. Say to understand what triggers your intense
ignored… they are real and come from the yourself: “I cannot make decisions when I feelings and how you can work towards
experiences you are having. We only want am feeling this stressed, so I will postpone a calmer response. It might also include
any decisions for one week ways for you to learn how to be more
so that I can take the time to assertive in the way you represent yourself
calm down first.” to your father or your boss, so that they
Focus your attention on can better understand how you feel and
things that will help you where your limits are.
relax your mind and body. Everything in life seems to go better
Exercise is one important when we are calm. We cannot control what
way to relieve stress. Some happens to us, but we can learn to gain a
exercises can be done in calmness that helps us to respond in the
short amounts of time even best way.
in your workplace. There are I wish calmness to you,
also guided meditations and — Douglas
mindfulness trainings that Do you have a question you would like
don’t take much time, but Douglas’s help with? You can email him at
do help you calm your mind douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal
and relax your whole being. details will not be printed

Hanoi
BARS, CLUBS & EDEN HANOI MADAKE SIDEWALK HANOI THE UNICORN BAR
BEER CLUBS OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE BAR & EVENT SPACE DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho 2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel:
facebook.com/edengargen (04) 6276 6665 facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi 0904 886266
+84 BAR When it comes to outdoor facebook.com/madakehanoi A bar and grill with an ec- The latest offering of well-
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR parties, big outdoor parties, With a stunning garden lectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor known champion bartender,
23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem the setting at Eden makes overlooking a peaceful lo- setting. Regular DJ nights and Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn of-
facebook.com/bar84hanoi this place difficult to beat, tus pond, this bar is famed live music add to the great fers up a lounge space, a
On the Town
Housed in a colonial build- with well over a 1,000 revel- for it’s many weekday and ambience. Check out their small bar area and an attrac-
ing, bare brick, comfortable lers packing in at the week- weekend events, its ambient grill fare. Tasty. tive seating space out front.
sofa-like seating and grungy ends. Check out their Face- Asian-style décor, DJ nights Now, as for the cocktails…
decor related to a past make book page for the party list. and general atmosphere. A
up the mix at this venue put popular West Lake go-to joint. SPY BAR
together by the people be- HOLE IN THE WALL TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL
hind Barbetta. ETE BAR 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan SPORTS BAR/GRILL
FRENCH LOUNGE MAO’S RED LOUNGE Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR A cheap, cheerful and wel- (04) 6675 9838
88 LOUNGE Tel: 0976 751331 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: coming slither of a watering tracyspub.com
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR A favourite among those (04) 3926 3104 hole popular with expats and A miniscule sports bar on
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: who roam further west of There’s only one Mao and anyone looking for some the main drag of Xuan Dieu
(04) 3718 8029 the city centre, this multi- there’s only one red lounge. good conversation. Cheap is perpetually crowded with
88group.vn storey restobar has been go- This late-night bar has been beers, oodles of Jameson’s regulars drinking out front on
A wine bar with a difference, ing strong for more than two going for years, and despite and often open late. Oh, and plastic stools. Notorious for
this mainstay on the water- years. It has balconies, mez- its Old Quarter dive status, check out the Danish hotdog its burgers, cooked fresh to
ing hole scene in West Lake zanine seating and a long bar it still packs in the drinkers. stand out front. To die for. order, Tracy’s is also famous
mixes contemporary design, guarding exactly 50 different for their draft beers, claim-
black ceilings, subtle lighting cocktails. For many the Ete ing to serve the coldest draft
and an international aesthet- burger is right on the mark PHUC TAN TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR beer in Hanoi.
ic with one of the best wine as are the sandwiches, tar- LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR AND CAFE
lists in town. Not surprisingly tines and salads. It’s always 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
it is developing a faithful cli- crowded — especially during Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem VUVUZELA
entele. Well worth a visit. the weekends. Amiable staff, Now located on the river tadioto.com MODERN BEER HALL
pleasant vibes. in between Long Bien and Located close to the Opera 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Chuong Duong Bridges, this House, this alternative, arty Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
ANGELINA late night, DJ bar is notorious bar is garnished in red and vuvuzela.com.vn
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN FATCAT BAR for… well, being Phuc Tan. white on the outside, with When Vuvuzela opened up,
Sofitel Metopole Legend Ho- DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT Almost every Hanoi-based warm brown and tones of mixing the Hooters concept
tel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: reveler has ended up here blue on the inside. Creat- from the US with a beer hall,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919 0986 495211 at some point. It’s just one ing an atmosphere merging drinking food and a DJ booth,
Top-end bar and Italian res- linkhanoi.com of those places. Shanghai and San Francisco, it created the start of a new
taurant all in one. Five star A small establishment from engaging contemporary art- scene — beer clubs. The origi-
prices, but has an atmos- the minds behind the party work lines the walls at the nal Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh
phere to match and a great and event organisers, LinkH- POLITE PUB latest incarnation of this well- Tong is still going strong, but
cocktail selection. The kind anoi. The bar has tables fill- LONG BAR known and well-loved space. it’s so popular that it’s best to
of place you’ll order a wagyu ing the first floor and spilling 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: book your table in advance.
and eat it at the bar. onto the sidewalk as well as (04) 3825 0959 For a full list of Hanoi loca-
a small loft area for lounging. 5pm to 2am THE NEST tions, check their website.
Probably the closest thing VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
BACKYARD BIA HOI Hanoi has to an authentic Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay CAFES
UPMARKET BIA HOI HANOI ROCK CITY English-style pub, Polite is Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho LIVE MUSIC VENUE frequented by a steady mix facebook.com/Nest.
From the Tet Lifestyle collec- 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, of locals and expats who find Lounge.09XuanDieu ANNAM CAFE
tion, this outdoor, hideaway, Tel: 01633 166170 solace in the nightly conver- The West Lake location sug- DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
garden-based bia hoi is every facebook.com/hrc.hanoi sations at the long bar, pool gests that this is the kind of Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu,
bit as attractive (and popu- Has a downstairs, English- and live football matches. bar that will attract expats. Tay Ho
lar) as its café peers in the style pub garden area and It does. But thanks to the A trendy, deli-style café con-
West Lake area. A Vietnam- an upstairs space dedicated Vietnamese atmosphere, nected to Annam Gourmet
ese-style food menu and to live music and live pro- RED RIVER TEA ROOM there’s a nice mix of local next door. Bright and fresh
regular live music make up duction. Weekly live events LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE and foreign over the three décor is complemented by
the mix. feature bands and DJs both 25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho floors of lounge seating, DJ shelves stocked with im-
from Vietnam and overseas facebook.com/pages/Red- booths and dance areas. ported gourmet goods and
— established and up and River-Tea-Room The views here are pretty cafeteria-style furniture. An
BARBETTA coming. Located on the lakeside eye-catching, too. eye-catching temptation for
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
lane just below Xuan Dieu, weary shoppers.
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, this warm, quiet and friendly
Tel: (04) 3734 9134 HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS pub offers a selection of in- THE REPUBLIC
Set in a colonial villa, when CZECH MICROBREWERY ternational and local beers, MODERN SPORTS BAR CIAO CAFÉ
it comes to design, the funky 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, wine, cocktails and a nice 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: RESTO LOUNGE
but comfortable Barbetta Tel: (04) 3972 5088 view of West Lake. Serving 0904 010116 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
with its roof terrace is dif- pies and pasties from The republic.vn (04) 3934 1494
ficult to beat. A great place A contemporary mid-range A stone’s throw from the
Cart, Vietnamese food from
for coffee, beer or even a bar and eatery showing shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
LE SOLEIL Dieu’s next door, or delivery
bite to eat. live sport and boasting a this Saigonese franchise of-
DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT from nearby favourites. Un-
convivial atmosphere. Has fers a variety of different
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: pretentious, dog-friendly.
a creative comfort food western dishes at reasonable
0915 663993
CAMA ATK menu, excellent breakfasts, prices. Loaded with booths
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
facebook.com/lesoleil- daily specials and a popular and a steady, young Viet-
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, paoloandchi ROCKSTORE second-floor outdoor terrace. namese crowd, the estab-
Tel: 01262 054970 Open late, Le Soleil has be- LIVE MUSIC BAR
lishment is a great place to
cama-atk.com come a place to be seen, 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: squash a sandwich or bowl
With well-poured drinks, especially if you’re the danc- 01653 336087 THE ROOFTOP of pasta and people watch.
a foosball table, no smoking-into-the-early hours kind facebook.com/Rockstore- SKYLINE LOUNGE They also do coffee.
ing and a midnight closing of person. Sofas, bar stools, Hanoi 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
time, CAMA ATK knows ex- menus on blackboards and Hanoi's home-made, home- Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
actly what it wants to be neon-coloured lighting, grown version of Hard Rock Tel: (04) 3946 1901 COFFEE BEAN
— and that’s refreshing. The there’s a grunge-style feel to Cafe without the stigma and therooftop.vn AND TEA LEAF
space is a part time venue the place, but it’s an ambi- the expensive prices. Nightly The first up-on-high bar and INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
for smaller acts and DJs. The ence that Le Soleil’s custom- live music or DJing events are restaurant in the capital and 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho,
venue is hip, comfortable ers seem to love. Has a pizza coupled with creative decor, a still a leader in its field. With Tel: (04) 3715 4240
and will likely provide the joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs. selection of Belgian Beer and DJs spinning EDM and great coffeebean.com
serious drinker with a reli- a food menu. Check their Fa- views of the city, this is a This American-style chain
able place to pull up a stool cebook page for details. must for a more Vietnamese, cafe is a multilevel, indoor/
and take pulls in a relaxed top-shelf experience. outdoor café overlooking
haven. Westlake. With its LA coffee

STUDENT EYE IDENTITY CRISIS BY TO THU PHUONG
C
hoosing a single number, obligations of everyday Hanoi. Even so,
a single image or a single could it be possible that this moratorium
anything to represent a large was only my own self-made illusion?
and diverse community was
never an easy task. Perhaps this is A Matter of Unity
why most democratic elections are so I will soon become obsolete, a thing of
challenging, be it to realise, to follow the past; nothing more than another
or to compete in. Yet, they are so the computer screen, I stared back and name on the alumni page of the school.
intriguing, undeniably magnetising. In wondered: where did I go wrong? What Maybe the reason why I can’t understand
a way, voting and elections satisfy one could possibly have caused this discord the new choice of logo is because I’m no
of our most basic human needs to voice between an essential landmark of my longer part of the unity? The end of my
ourselves, and in extension, to take part childhood and me? days at the French school also happens
in moulding a solid identity for our “Let it go,” my friends all told me, but to be the beginning of a new chapter for
community. I couldn’t; I wanted to understand what it; new communication strategies, new
pushed those around me to vote the way recognitions and a new building on the
A Matter of Logos they did. If both wanted the best image way.
While the world anxiously peers over the for the school, how could our votes have One sluggish morning, as I opened
US primaries — votes that will impact altered so much? After all, Cartesian the closet to choose an outfit for one of
the lives of some 300 million people philosophy clearly says there’s only one the last school days of my life, I reached
— one smaller decision was made; the real reasonable choice to every problem or for the new school shirt. Made of cotton
French School of Hanoi donned a new dilemma. Which means either one of two and of a simple white and blue colour
official logo! Through an online vote, things; they’re wrong or I’m wrong. combination, it had the new logo printed
almost all students, teachers, staff and What was so hard about voting for right in the centre. Despite it being much
parents clearly stated their positions and a logo? The obvious criteria was that too large for me, I couldn’t help but feel
proudly declared their loyalties. it had to embody Le Lycée Français a small sense of pride as I tried it on. I
A few clicks and hard choices later, the Alexandre Yersin, by that I mean the whole wore it to school that day, and thought:
result was announced; a blue calligraphy- entity, the whole spirit of the school. perhaps I can’t be part of the school’s
esque version of the temple of literature To me, the French school has always new identity, but it will always be a big
will now be ever-present on our walls, been an existence independent of its part of mine.
websites and minds. The majority has surroundings. In its own way, an oasis To Thu Phuong is in Year 12 and is shortly
spoken; unfortunately I was not part of where alternative ideas and lifestyles finishing her studies at the French School of
it. As the new logo stared at me through can blossom, exempt from the invisible Hanoi. This will be her last column

Hanoi
and office feel, when you Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, and pan-Asian mains. quirky, it’s endearing use of CHOPS
walk in you might just forget Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, recycled furniture — antiques GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER
that you’re in Hanoi. 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem and colourful artwork create 4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
highlandscoffee.com.vn PUKU a vibrant atmosphere — 6292 1044
With numerous locations INTERNATIONAL / CAFE make for a popular hangout. chopsvietnam.com
CONG CAPHE around town, what originally 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Open 24 hours. Finally Hanoi has a dedicated
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE started as a fourth-floor joint Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 gourmet burger joint, and
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba overlooking the lake has This spacious spot on Food this West Lake eatery with its
On the Town
Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba become one of the most Street is open around the ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE fan-cooled atmosphere get it
Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; popular, home-grown cafes clock, offering Aussie-inspired VEGETARIAN / VEGAN just about right. This is com-
15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A in Vietnam. comfort food along with more 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, fort food at its finest. Served
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho eclectic Irish nachos, cottage Tel: 0904 356561 up with locally brewed craft
congcaphe.com pies and pan-Asian fare. Up- zenithyogavietnam.com beer, and this one’s a bit of
With a kitsch, communist- JOMA stairs is fit for social gather- A vegetarian and vegan cafe a winner.
driven theme saturating this COFFEE/BAKERY ings and live music while the respecting the philosophy of
quaint cafe, most patrons 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, no-smoking downstairs space yoga — simple living, mindful
are young Vietnamese bo- Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To is filled with people working thinking. Using 100 percent COUSINS
hemians and artsy expats. Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) and socialising. Serves as natural ingredients, the cui- CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
Sip on a blended cup of joe 3718 6071 community centre, especially sine has no additional addi- 3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho,
with beans from the Central joma.biz late at night. tives or MSG and is cooked Tel: 01238 670098
Highlands, knock back one of Popular café with a con- using the minimal amount facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
the many different types of temporary western feel to of oil. The stress is instead A contemporary, French-
tea available or sip on fresh- the counter-style service SAINT HONORE on eating whole food in its influenced restaurant sell-
ly squeezed juice from the and atmosphere. The food CAFE / BOULANGERIE natural state. ing international cuisine
Spartan cups in one of the is all there, too: breakfasts, 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, at reasonable prices in a
hippest café chains in town. salads, soups, ice cream, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 EAT spacious, airy atmosphere.
muffins, cakes, cereals and This cafe and French-style Blackboards, whitewashed,
bagels. Starting in Laos in boulangerie is best visited bare-brick walls, period tiles,
D’ALICE 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in the morning when that AL FRESCO’S a well-chosen wine list and an
BOUTIQUE CAFE in 2009. Joma contributes 2 Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL outdoor terrace overlooking
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, percent of each sale to chari- aroma hits you as you walk 24 Quang An, Tay Ho, the lake make up the formula.
Hai Ba Trung table organisations. through the door. The down- Tel: (04) 3938 1155
Put together coffee and cake stairs space is split into the alfrescogroup.com
and you get one of those bakery on one side with a DA PAOLO
timeless combinations. And KINH DO small non-smoking dining CLASSIC ITALIAN
if you really want to binge on PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE space on the other. The up- AMATO 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
the cake-end, then check out 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, stairs lounge area has stand- TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE Mai, Tay Ho,
d’Alice and its quirky interior. Tel: (04) 3825 0216 ard tables as well as sofa 1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: (04) 3718 6317
Perfect for that more modern One of the longest-running seating. Simple but tasty 01227 367470 This airy, contemporary look-
combination of sweet tooth cafes in town, this hole-in- French and international Located next to Binh Minh ing Italian restaurant next to
and iThingy. the-wall, no frills café-cum- fare is served at meal times. Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion the famed lawn chair and
restaurant home-makes its tapas bar by night and a coconut café on West Lake
patisseries and is renowned French restaurant during the has all the right ingredients
DUY TRI for its excellent yoghurt. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ day. Tiny, hip and yet surpris- to become a classic. Run by
VIETNAMESE CAFÉ
ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR ingly spacious, Amato offers the long time former man-
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, an international dining and ager of Luna D’Autunno, it
The longest-running café in MANZI ARTSPACE Tay Ho drinking experience in the features scrumptious wood-
the capital, this 1936-estab- ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY tet-lifestyle-collection.com heart of Hanoi. fired oven pizzas from
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Cloistered among the back VND120,000 and other Italian
lished, three-floored space is
Tel: (04) 3716 3397 streets of West Lake and delicacies. Open every day
simplicity at its finest. Even
the coffee here sticks to its
facebook.com/manzihanoi sheltered from the noise of for lunch and dinner, deliv-
A stunningly designed con- Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is ery is also available.
roots — it’s made using the temporary café and events a destination for those who
same blend of Arabica and space that screams out the appreciate life’s pleasures:
Robusta cooked up by its words ‘modern art’. Housed in coffee, food, art and music. AU LAC DO BRAZIL
founders. Unpretentious, en- DALUVA
a converted colonial-era villa, a Simple and unpretentious, BRAZILIAN
dearing and old-fashioned. continuous flow of exhibitions, the café has an old-fash- 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
talks, experimental music and ioned warmth and rustic feel Tel: (04) 3845 5224
Tel: (04) 3718 5831
game shows make up the mix combined with unique and aulacdobrazil.com daluva.com
HANOI COOKING here. Great cuisine, too. inspiring art installations. A Brazilian churrascaria
CENTRE CAFÉ A popular hang-out for ex-
offering all-you-can-eat
COURTYARD CAFE pats and trendy Vietnamese
grilled meat and seafood on
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh in the Xuan Dieu area on
MAISON DE TET DÉCOR THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB the skewer. In typical Brazil-
Relax in a leafy courtyard, air- West Lake. This bar and res-
LIFESTYLE CAFE CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY ian rodízio fashion, waiters
con dining room or under a taurant offers casual dining
36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, bring cuts of meat to the
covered roof terrace with a with a classy, Middle-Eastern
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 Tel: (04) 3938 2117 table for patrons to pick and
Vietnamese ca phe, Italian tet-lifestyle-collection.com facebook.com/thehanoiso- choose, all for a set price.
twist, as well as wine, tapas,
coffee, beer, wine or freshly On-site coffee roasting, cialclub They also offer wine pair-
events and attractive décor.
squeezed juice. Order from a comfortable seating arrange- A cozy midsize café/restau- ings, a salad bar and an a la
seasonally changing menu or ments, rustic style furnish- rant where you can forget carte menu, with a creative
try one of the all-day breakfast ings and décor, and a focus the heat and bustle of Hanoi. selection of fruit caipirinhas.
DON’S TAY HO
specials for VND110,000, in- CONTEMPORARY NORTH
on healthy, non-processed The atmosphere is relaxed
cluding juice and coffee or tea. AMERICAN
foods. This is the concept and here you can imagine,
behind Maison de Tet Décor, for a second, that you’re 16 Quang An, Tay Ho,
and it’s a popular one, too, sitting in a European café. ASAHI SUSHI Tel: (04) 3719 3719
HANOI HOUSE as witnessed by the size of The ood is fresh and inter- SUSHI RESTAURANT
Dons-bistro.com
HIDEAWAY CAFE the clientele. Also run occa- nationally inspired, and has 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, This lake-facing venue with
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, sional farmers’ markets. an excellent top-floor terrace. Tel: (04) 3974 5945 its top floor Oyster Bar is the
Hoan Kiem asahisushi.vn work of charismatic Canadian
Set in a colonial-era build- restaurateur and wine con-
ing with equally colonial- MOC CAFE YOLO noisseur Donald Berger. Fo-
era styled furnishings, this CAFE / INTERNATIONAL FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE CAFÉ 129 cusing on comfort food done
hidden away family house 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. 32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD well, the main restaurant
café is one of those gems (04) 3825 6334 facebook.com/YoloCoffee- 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, menu includes anything from
synonymous with Hanoi. Set in a slightly run down Shops Tel: (04) 3821 5342 wood-grilled rare tuna steak
Quiet, intimate and simple, colonial villa, the faded but Boasting an abundance of Long-running, slightly in- with fragrant Chinese black
the staff will treat you like charmingly run down French- communal seating, funky de- congruous hole-in-the-wall bean beurre noir to gourmet
you’re a guest in their home. styled retro interior, good cor and a full roster of regu- café and restaurant that pizza and pasta dishes Excel-
WiFi and some of the best lar live music performances, has served up up a Western lent range of imported oys-
coffee in town makes this this rollicking café-slash-bar menu since the late 1990s. ters, great breakfasts and an
HIGHLANDS COFFEE a great spot to while away has quickly earned a place in Check out their and their ex- extensive wine list.
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN a couple of hours. The food the hearts of Hanoi’s young cellent breakfasts, all scoffed
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan menu mixes Vietnamese fare and trendy. Fun, unpreten- down in a traditional, Viet-
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; with sandwiches, western tious and unashamedly namese environment.

BAR STOOL ZONE 17
R
ecently reopened to cater for
Hanoi’s late-night enthusiasts,
Zone 17 does nine-to-five the
other way around.
Situated on a side road running parallel
to Yen Phu, it’d be easy not to notice
the neon sign among the industrial
surroundings of Hanoi’s latest watering
hole. Once inside, Zone 17 gives a gritty
first impression, but sit up at the bar and
you’ll be greeted by open and friendly
staff, ready to provide relaxed and
comfortable service.
At Zone 17, a nice drink doesn’t make
you resent your bank balance — ask for
a margarita and you’ll wait as long as it
takes to make a good margarita, and it’ll
only set you back VND70,000 — the same
price as a standard spirit and mixer. The
beers come in at sober prices too; a glass
of Larue costs VND30,000, and they’re not
shy about advertising promotions for all
your favourite poison.
From Dusk ‘Til Dawn Via Spy Bar

With the weekend taking the brunt of the
business, the dance-floor is big enough
to cater to a Saturday night crowd.
Regular events keep the calendar busy;
anyone who was present for their St.
Patrick's Day party can testify that they
know how to get the place going. In
May, UK hip-hop pioneer Jam Baxter has
chosen the venue to film the video to an
upcoming single from his latest album.
If weekdays are more suited to you then
you have the option to choose your own
music and take bets on the pool table in a
more down-tempo atmosphere.
The sound system will leave your ears
ringing after a night of deep house and
old-school tunes, and on weekends before
the 5am atxi home the late-night barbeque
will fill the hole in your gut before heading
to bed.
On the word of taxis, if you find
yourself outside Spy Bar in the Old
Quarter around 11pm, you might notice
some stragglers excitedly boarding a bus
— Zone 17 have arranged for buses to
ferry weekend troopers from Hoan Kiem
to their doorstep, for free, and have been
known to set your night off with a free
drink on boarding.
The team at Zone 17 have big ideas for
the future as well, with plans to expand
the venue and open a new room, as well
as continue to bring in bigger and better PHOTOS BY TRUNG DEL
names to grace their stage. Certainly
something to keep an eye on, this once sleeping dragon waiting to ignite a new Zone 17 is located at 17 Hong Ha, Ba Dinh,
vacant side alley off Yen Phu could be the chapter in Hanoi’s nightlife. — Billy Gray Ha Noi, parallel to Yen Phu

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE up an enticing mix of classic alfrescogroup.com labadiane-hanoi.com namese-French fusion cuisine. dim sum menus and set
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE and contemporary French An all-day eating and drink- On entering La Badiane, you menus. Reservations recom-
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: cuisine, blended in with ing lounge fit for all occa- are instantly caught by the mended.
(04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Vietnamese ingredients and sions, with of course, a focus multitude aromas coming LE BEAULIEU
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 cooking styles, the resultant on steak. Has three floors all from the open front kitch- CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
elgaucho.com.vn fare has had customers com- with different vibes, the kind en. Then, surrounded by leaf Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 MEDITERRANEO
With venues in Saigon and ing back again and again. A of slick service you’d expect plants, and predominantly Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, PAN-ITALIAN
Bangkok, the essence of El traditional Vietnamese and from the Al Fresco’s Group white walls, the customer is Tel: (04) 3826 6919 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem,
Gaucho is quality top grade kids menu is also available, and an extensive wine list. struck by this venue’s calm The Metropole’s signature Tel: (04) 3826 6288
meats off the grill. Steak is as is a wine list focusing and elegance. Although the restaurant serving up both This long-running, cozy res-
the mainstay — the USDA mainly on French wines. dining experience at la Badi- classic and contemporary taurant near the cathedral
cuts are to die for — but JASPA’S ane is about the food, great French fare. Buffet options serves all the traditional
everything from chicken, INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN attention is also paid to the mix with an a la carte menu Italian fare you could need
pork and seafood is also up HIGHWAY 4 Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba ambience so you can enjoy and an ambience that could — homemade mozzarella
for grabs. Add to this a back- VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, every aspect of your meal. be straight out of Paris. and fresh pasta, spinach
drop of low Latin music, low, 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 Voted one of Miele Guide’s and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
subtle lighting, an extensive Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat alfrescosgroup.com Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. boards, soups, salads and
wine list and slick service. Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 Recently refurbished, the LINGUINI FINI fish. Boasts an extensive
There’s a reason El Gaucho is 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Australian-influenced Jaspa’s ITALIAN-AMERICAN wine list and a traditional
so successful — everything’s Tel: (04) 3771 6372 is known for its attentive LA BICICLETA 36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: wood fire oven.
being taken care of. The home of Son Tinh liquor, service, tasty food and large BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO (04) 3266 8968
Highway 4 is also known for portions. Popular with both 44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, linguinifini.com/en/hanoi
its communal dining and the western and Asian ex- Tel: (04) 3718 8246 With branches in Hong Kong MING PALACE
FOODSHOP 45 ethnic food menu taking in pat communities who come thbc.vn and Manilla, the contempo- PAN-CHINESE
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN dishes from around the re- back again and again. The Spanish Tapas fare is avail- rary Italian-American Linguini Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, gions of northern Vietnam. comprehensive menu is a able elsewhere, but this is Fini pulls no punches with Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Tel: (04) 3716 2959 Try out their catfish spring fusion of western and Asian the only eatery where it is its first outlet in Vietnam. A fine dining destination
foodshop45.com rolls. Phenomenal! cooking. The cocktails come authentic and from Barcelo- Sleek modern décor, high at the Sofitel Plaza serving
Lakeside location and low large and the wine is mainly na. Great selection of sand- quality cuisine, home-made Cantonese and pan-Chinese
bamboo seating, this eatery New World. wiches, tapas and paella as pasta, reasonable prices and cuisine in a sleek modern
is one of the most popular INDIA PALACE well as enormous Spanish- dishes cooked up with the setting with private dining
Indians in town. Selling an NORTH INDIAN style gin and tonics, Tinto freshest ingredients available rooms. With more than 80
international version of the 10B Quang An, Tay Ho KOTO ON VAN MIEU de Verano, carajillos and are part of the deal, as are dim sum selections available
mighty curry — they even Tel: 01247 668668 RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR sangria. Also known for its some damn fine pizzas. along with Chinese entrees,
sell pork and beef here — the indiapalacehn@vnn.vn 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, moreish, Catalan-style des- Ming’s is an ideal eatery for
menu keeps to the northern Like a phoenix rising from the Tel: (04) 3747 0337 serts. Closed Mondays. those hungry for higher end
part of the subcontinent with ashes, so India Palace has koto.com.au LUNA D’AUTUNNO Chinese fare.
masala, dopiaza, korma and once again returned to Tay Ho, The restaurant arm of Koto, CLASSIC ITALIAN
the more Goan vindaloo tak- this time on the strip between an F&B training school for LA SALSA 27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
ing centre stage. Don’s and The Warehouse. disadvantaged youth. Au- IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 7338 MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES
Tasty North Indian fare in a thentic Asian and European 5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, lunadautunno.vn ARTS
pleasant environment from cuisine is served over four big Tel: (04) 3995 0950 This old-favourite Italian PAN-FRENCH
FRENCH GRILL the team behind Tandoor. floors of restaurant space. It’s lasalsa-hanoi.com uses traditional wood ovens 11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem,
TOP-END GRILL cushioned, comfortable and A small but eternally popular to prepare some of the city’s Tel: (04) 3828 7207
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc has a rooftop terrace, too. Spanish-themed café and bar finest pizzas, which range cafe-des-arts.com
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, J.A.F.A. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo with an extensive list of reli- from VND100,000 to build- A contemporary and chic
Tel: (04) 3833 5588 INTERNATIONAL Nam bo, Koto burgers, pas- able cuisine. Tapas are avail- your-own-skies-the-limit. three-storey restaurant with
facebook.com/frenchgrill G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, tas, fish and chips, chicken able, as well as full courses Set inside a large, thoughtful a terrace and views over one
With unique decor, contem- Tel: (04) 3758 2400 Kievs and sandwiches all such as veal, and duck with space seasoned chefs also of Hanoi’s best-known alleys.
porary ambience, a walk-in One of the larger and more under one homely roof. currant sauce. Known for its make fresh pastas, soups Serves up quality French cui-
wine cooler and a delectable comfortable bars in Hanoi, good, European-style coffee and cheeses. Has regular sine such as: snails, foie gras,
seafood bar, this classy res- J.A.F.A. is a great place for and first-floor terrace area live music and a great Ital- lobster, scallops, chateaubri-
taurant offers guests a service drinking cocktails by the KY Y with views over the cathedral. ian wine list. and and tournedos Rossini.
experience with crafted food pool. The beverages are not JAPANESE RICE EATERY Does an excellent set menu
difficult to find in the capital. the cheapest, but this is 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba and also has a daily specials
made up for by service and Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 LA VERTICALE MAY MAN CHINESE board.
ambiance. They also have a Not to be mistake for a sushi CONTEMPORARY FRENCH CUISINE
GREEN TANGERINE full menu featuring familiar joint, this wonderful restau- 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, PAN-CHINESE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION western dishes such as pizza rant is your typical, Japanese Tel: (04) 3944 6317 Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, MOOSE AND ROO
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, and cheeseburgers and cater working person’s rice eatery. verticale-hanoi.com Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN
Tel: (04) 3825 1286 for large parties or dinner Has a bar area downstairs Situated in an art-deco villa, fortuna.vn RESTAURANT
greentangerinehanoi.com functions. Periodic buffets and and booth-like seating on this establishment is run by Elegant and luxurious, May 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
A leafy, cobblestone court- drink specials are also offered. the upper floors. the most famous French chef Man has long been regarded Tel:(04) 3200 1289
yard with dark green cast- in the country. With modestly as one of the best Chinese Contemporary Australian
iron backed chairs greets you priced set lunches and subtle restaurants in Hanoi. Show- and Canadian comfort food
as you walk into this French JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE LA BADIANE Vietnamese touches on the casing a selection of authen- in a pleasant setting together
era-built villa that houses the STEAKHOUSE / GRILL CONTEMPORARY FRENCH dishes, the up market estab- tic Chinese fare together with with a nice bar area. Best
main section of this Indochi- 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, lishment lures in its high class dim sum, May Man boasts known for their Scotch egg,
na-styled restaurant. Serving Tel: (04) 3938 8388 Tel: (04) 3942 4509 customers with quality Viet- extensive a la carte menus, poutine and burgers. Clever

TOP EATS OVEN D’OR
“S
orry, I’m eating lobster for your fish and shiraz for your roast. Impressive
thermidor and drinking The Tiger drafts are free-flowing, and A red hot Singaporean chilli crab with
chardonnay,” is not a text DIY cocktails are on a rotational basis, intense flavour; a creamy, rich seafood pasta
message I ever thought I situated next to an array of fresh juices with shrimp, prawns and shellfish. Both
would send in response to a coffee invite, like watermelon, peach and sugarcane, so dishes are cooked in front of you at the live
until I went to the wine brunch at Oven d’Or. guests can get creative. Not only is this cooking station, a feast for longing eyes, a
This place understands Sundays on a level brunch delicious, but it’s also interactive. banquet for a hungry stomach.
that I have not quite seen before. There’s a I never considered eating sushi for brunch Close by, rainbows of row and sliced fish
fondue station with not one, but two kinds before. But this place changed my entire abound, but the masterpiece is a multi-
of chocolate fountains, a crepe and waffle thought process about the meal. With a chef layered sushi cake, featuring smoked eel,
counter, an entire suckling pig laid out for exchange training programme in Japan that seaweed, Norwegian salmon and rice,
carving, an a la carte grill, a sushi bar, and, of results in the most authentic rolls possible, topped with juicy orange salmon roe.
course, the help-yourself booze table. the sushi bar is truly impressive. Sushi is Salty, tangy, savoury, smoky — there are so
There’s quite a selection in the beverage not just about the fish, executive assistant many flavours here that I almost felt like
department; careful attention is paid to manager Sashi Kumar tells me, but a delicate I didn’t need to eat anything else. After
food pairings here, so there’s chardonnay balance of Japanese vinegar and quality rice. two, I almost had a third, but luckily, our

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA
photographer took my plate away and black pepper sauce, and pan-fried French foie and then created a colourful collection of
reminded me to pace myself, for we’d only gras served with a sweet apple sauce. The sweets for our table. We also had to pay a
just begun to feast. most interesting dish on the carving station, visit to the waffle and crepe station, where
After the sushi starter, you can move on though, was the salmon Wellington, a play a bright green pandan waffle was cooked
to the meats. I’m not kidding when I say on the English beef classic that was leaner, fresh for us. I immediately slathered it in
there is an entire suckling pig roast laid out but still retained a level of richness apt for Nutella (obviously), and a scoop of German-
on the buffet table, and a grill where you can this lavish brunch. imported hazelnut ice cream. At capacity, my
choose your own meat cuts and watch the Course number three was lobster stomach screamed no, but my mouth said
chef cook them up for you. Sashi says they thermidor, with succulent pieces of lobster yes. — Jesse Meadows
intentionally placed this grandiose display and mushrooms slathered in creamy Oven D’Or is at the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel, K5
front and centre, so it’s the first impression a goodness, stuffed into the shell and topped Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi. The
guest gets when they walk in. “It’s [there] so with an oven-baked cheese crust. Sunday Brunch buffet costs VND1.35 million
people can see that we don’t hold back.” There was one more course we had ++ and includes a free flow of wine, soft drinks,
to squeeze in; dessert. We played in the cocktails and beer. Children five to 11 go for half
Richesse fondue fountain, covering strawberries price and under-fives go for free. For more info
We had the tender New Zealand lamb with a and pineapples in hot flowing chocolate, click on sheratonhanoi.com

MEDICAL BUFF ADRENALINE JUNKIES BY LAUREL WINTER
W
hy does becoming an and then immediate weakness in her arm. Expats are found to be sitting for long
expatriate bring out the She came to FMP and was seen by a periods of time at their computers in
Extreme Sports Expat? Do doctor who was able to diagnose a rotator relatively fixed positions, performing
we have to become more cuff tear; when this tear occurs, there repetitive movements while trying to meet
adventurous than friends and family is frequently weakening of the muscles deadlines. Aches and pains can be felt in
back home? A recent survey of expats around the arm and decreased range of the neck, shoulder, upper and lower back,
revealed that just over half expect to motion of the shoulder. Fortunately surgery wrist and elbow joints; the nerves in the
take part in extreme sports while abroad; wasn’t necessary this time on the tendon, hand for example become compressed,
off-piste skiing, quad biking, kite surfing, but the muscles around the arm remained causing weakness and/or tingling in the
sand boarding, kayaking, white-water weak. Rehabilitation plays a critical role finger.
rafting and rock climbing are booming. in the non-surgical treatment of a rotator Make sure you don’t neglect the
The expat community seems not short cuff tear, so the doctor was able to advise a importance of posture as you sit down —
of enthusiasts and the sports are getting physical therapy program to regain strength posture can have an effect on home and
more dangerous. and improve functioning in her shoulder. sporting life, causing long-term damage
FMP recently had a patient, a 32-year-old that will haunt you in later years.
female who had the adrenaline rush to do Compress Don’t wait for the pain or swelling to
some quad biking in Phan Thiet, Vietnam. With some detailed history-taking, the subside before making an appointment.
The white sand dunes were refreshing physiotherapist was able to find out the Taking painkillers long-term is not a
after Hanoi but what resulted was a really patient had a history of high-energy remedy; you may inadvertently be doing
painful injury to her shoulder. She began to sports activities combined with a desk job something that is making the problem
feel pain in the front of her shoulder a few which left her sitting in a relatively fixed worse than better. The sooner you see a
days later that gradually radiated down position for long periods of time trying to doctor and physiotherapist the quicker a
the side of her arm. She was finding sleep meet deadlines. She explained sometimes treatment program can be started which
painful and began to get a slight weakness she experienced aches and pains in her will minimize the amount of time you have
in her arm. For the first week she was neck, shoulder, wrist and elbow joints that to miss your adrenaline fix.
taking painkillers but was having difficulty indicated the onset of repetitive strain Laurel Winter graduated from The
with routine activities such as combing her injury (RSI). This type of injury can result University of Newcastle, Australia with a
hair and reaching behind her back to do up in damage to tendons, muscles, nerves Bachelor of Physiotherapy with Honours in
her dress. What happened one day at work and soft tissues from repeated physical 2006. She is available for appointments at FMP
was a snapping sensation in her shoulder movements over time. Kim Ma Clinic and at corporate offices

Hanoi
PANE E VINO THE KAFE 25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem
PAN-ITALIAN CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
Tel: (04) 3826 9080 (04) 3747 6245 BIT TET NGON SO 5
facebook.com/panevinoHN thekafe.vn VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Spacious, casual, energetic and 20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh
Opera House, Pane e Vino serves beautifully designed, The KAfe
up authentic Italian food and has serves up unfussy comfort food
On the Town
done for as long as anyone can that aims to satisfy the modern BUN BO NAM BO
remember. Renowned for the urban diner. Preparing fresh food BUN BO NAM BO
highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and drinks that show respect to 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
and large variety of pasta and natural ingredients and flavours
salad dishes — look forward to from around the globe, this ca-
changing imagery on the walls. fine food done well at this eat- fé-cum-restaurant is a popular BUN CHA DAC KIM
ery that has the feel of Europe. choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual BUN CHA
Huge wine lists, friendly staff and community. 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67
MOOSE AND ROO a loveable owner. Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem
SMOKEHOUSE
AMERICAN GRILL WANNAWAFFLE
The American Club, 19-21 Hai PIZZA 4P’S WAFFLES KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)
Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT 27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; COM RANG DUA BO
3939 2470 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba 57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da
mooseandroo.com 01208 034444 Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza,
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s pizza4ps.com 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay
popularity — the excellent, on-site Famed for its home-made moz- facebook.com/wannawaffle MIEN TRON HANH
smoked meats together with all zarella and Japanese-inspired Waffles, but not as you know it. MIXED GLASS NOODLES
the typical, American-style sides. pizzas that break all the rules, Here it’s about taking this hum- 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
Set in the American Club, dining is the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is ble dish and recreating it in a
both indoors and out, and comes as popular as its Saigon branch, a contemporary environment in as
with the best bourbon selection restaurant that has been greeted many ways as is humanly pos- MY VAN THAN
in town. by accolades by all asunder. All sible. Ever had a matcha waf- WONTON NOODLES
pizzas are cooked in a wood- fle? What about a waffle stuffed 54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem
fired oven and use fresh, local with cream cheese and smoked
NAMASTE HANOI ingredients. salmon? How about a banoffee
PAN-INDIAN pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaf- PHO BO CU CHIEU
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, fle serves up all these creations PHO BO
Tel: (04) 3935 2400 POTS ‘N PANS and much more. 48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
namastehanoi.com CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The well-loved Namaste special- 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel:
ises in dishes from both northern (04) 3944 0204 WRAP & ROLL PHO CUON HUNG BEN
and southern India — using Halal potsnpans.vn 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai PHO CUON
meat throughout. Hosted by the Brought to you by a group of for- Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem 26 Nguyen Khac Hieu,
gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost mer disadvantaged youth from Tel: (04) 3824 3718 Ba Dinh
you between VND150,000 and Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique wrap-roll.com
VND300,000 and everything is fine dining restaurant, bar and The lime green walls and bright
there, from curries and breads lounge blends the old with the pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are PHO GA BA LAM
to soups and desserts. new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, just part of the theme of this PHO GA
like profiteroles with green tea homegrown, Vietnamese brand 7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem
and café fillings, a private chef’s which is all about spring rolls
NAN N KABAB table with a kitchen view, and of all types, and healthy, Hue-
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, an extensive wine list combined influenced cuisine. Now with PHO GA HANG DIEU
Tel: 0922 087799 with modern formal styling bring two restaurants in Hanoi — the PHO GA
Specialising in Pakistani cuisine a unique experience to Hanoi. second in Royal City. 1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem
and of course nan bread and ke-
babs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo
tabled, laid back eatery also sells SAINT HONORE ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAU- PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO RANT PHO BO
fare from Afganistan and India.
In a sentence? Curry, but not as 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN 49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem
you know it. 3933 2355 247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904
sainthonore.com.vn 356561
This bakery and French-style bis- zenithyogavietnam.com/ze- PHO LY QUOC SU
NINETEEN 11 tro is best visited in the morning nith-cafe PHO BO
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN when that Gallic, fresh-cooked A vegetarian and vegan café 10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, aroma of bread, croissants and connected to Zenith Yoga that
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 patisseries hits you as you walk respects yoga philosophy. Sim-
nineteen11.com.vn through the door. The downstairs ple living, mindful thinking and PHO THIN LO DUC
Named after the completion space is split into the bakery 100 percent natural ingredients, SAUTEED BEEF PHO
date of the Hanoi Opera House, on one side with a small non- all the food here is served up 13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
this upscale yet casual restau- smoking dining space on the without additional additives or
rant maintains an ambience of other. The upstairs lounge area MSG and using only fresh sea-
elegance, luxury and mystery. has standard tables as well as sonal products. All dishes are PHO TRON
The cuisine mixes international sofa seating. Simple French and made in house. MIXED PHO
fare with twists on Vietnamese international fare is served at 5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma
cuisine and comes complete with meal times. STREETFOOD May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom,
a formidable wine list and an in- Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can,
house sommelier. Hoan Kiem
THE CART 3 CHI EM
SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
OLD HANOI 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Vil- 18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho PHO TU LUN
GOURMET VIETNAMESE lage, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 PHO BO
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: thecartfood.com 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
(04) 3747 8337 Small cozy café and sandwich BANH CUON HANG GA
hanoixua.vn/en bar hidden away in Nghi Tam BANH CUON
Gordon Ramsay once filmed Village. Serves and delivers tasty 14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem XOI HANG HOM
a show at this restaurant in a baguettes, homemade juices, STICKY RICE
renovated French villa and now quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. 44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem
the ribs carry his namesake. But The delivery service is quick and BANH DA TRON
it’s the twist on old world favour- reliable, which makes this lunch- BANH DA TRON
ites, think fried snail spring rolls time favourite ideal for when you 6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
and miniature vegetarian banh need to eat at the desk.
xeo, all in a casually elegant set-
ting that make this spot near the BANH MI 25
train tracks a standout. STREETSIDE BANH MI
1 2
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DAO | May 2016 Word | 159
Van Ham
wordvietnam.com
Phan H
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Ho Chi Minh City
Day Tripper: HCMC / Business Buff / Body and Temple / Bar Stool / Know Your City / Top Eats / A
World of Good
Photo by Vu Ha Kim Vy
HCMC
BAKERIES M M M merce aims to create an ef- LITTLE ANH-EM
fective network of business BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
BOOKSHOPS associates together and to 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
ABC BAKERY facilitate discussion forums 0917 567506
BAKERY & CAFÉ about business in Vietnam. In addition to a varied selec-
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 FAHASA tion of garments for babies
phamngulao.abcbakery.co VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE and children up to 10 years
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, NORDCHAM old, Little Anh-Em stocks
Essentials
BOOKSTORE
cakes, muffins, donuts and 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, sleeping bags and other ac-
brownies, this bakery and Loi, Q1 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) cessories.
café all in one is a popu-
lar stop for those heading
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of
5416 0922
nordcham.com SHOPPING
through the Backpacker
District. Online ordering
English language books — in L’USINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
MALLS
a range of reading areas —
available. this multi-storied bookshop PHILIPPINES BUSINESS First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1,
GROUP VIETNAM Tel: (08) 6674 9565 DIAMOND PLAZA
also does stationery, toys
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh lusinespace.com 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel:
and a range of related prod-
BREAD TALK Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 Exclusive labels, elegant and (08) 3825 7750
ucts. Has a good selection of
CHAIN BAKERY ESL texts. pbgvn.com sophisticated clothing and 9am to 10pm
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, SINGAPORE BUSINESS casual high-quality cottons Cosmetics, Perfume,
Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo GROUP are stocked at this boutique/ Clothing, Accessories,
City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy café. Lifestyle accessories Electronics, Café, Food
Q7 NAM PHONG Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, include shoes, homewares, Court
breadtalkvietnam.com 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) Tel: (08) 3823 3046 knickknacks, cameras, sta-
A Singaporean bakery chain 3914 7858 sbghcm.org tionery and a range of vin-
that is vying for the Vietnam Nam Phong Bookstore was tage bicycles. HUNG VUONG
cake and bread market. Pro- founded at the of end 2002 M M M PLAZA
duces Asian-friendly patisse- in Ho Chi Minh City as the 126 Hung Vuong, Q5.
ries and cakes in a spacious, first and only francophone CLOTHING & MANDARINA
Tel: (08) 2222 0383
airy atmosphere. Has eight bookshop in the whole of ACCESSORIES TAILOR-MADE SHOES
9.30am to 10pm
locations and counting. Vietnam. Only books written 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 5267 Cosmetics, Perfume,
in French are for sale, cover- Clothing, Accessories,
ing for all ages and tastes. ANUPA ECO LUXE
HARVEST BAKING LEATHER & JEWELLERY Electronics, Café, Food
A catalogue is available at
AMERICAN BAKERY namphongsaigon.com 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 ORANGE Court
harvestbaking.net 2394 BUDGET CLOTHING
With a production facility in anupa.net 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
Thu Duc, Harvest Baking fo- PNC Monday to Sunday, 9am 3820 2620 PARKSON PLAZA
cuses on both the retail and VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE to 8pm 9am to 10pm 35-45 Le Thanh Ton,
non-retail trade, cooking up BOOKSTORE This centrally located unique Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636
the best American-style bak- 2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor boutique has been con- 9.30am to 10pm
ery products in the city. Has Parkson Center, 35-45 Le verted into an eco-boutique PAPAYA Cosmetics, Perfume,
an excellent home delivery Thanh Ton, Q1 which exclusively retails the BUDGET CLOTHING Clothing, Accessories,
service. Check the website pnc.com.vn complete Anupa leather 232 Bui Vien, Q1 Electronics, Café, Food
for details. Although there are some and semi-precious jewel- papaya-tshirt.com Court
English-language texts in lery range as well as other
this modern, well laid out unique eco brands such as
L’AMOUR bookstore, the focus here bamboo eyewear, pendant T&V TAILOR
BAKERY & CAFE scarves and cushion covers. TAILORS SAIGON CENTRE
is on all things Vietnamese.
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
Worth checking out, thought,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 3824 4556 3829 4888
for the occasional gem.
lamourbakery.com.vn BAM SKATE SHOP triciaandverona.com 9am to 9pm
M M M SKATEWEAR / STREET Cosmetics, Perfume,
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 Clothing, Accessories,
TOUS LES JOURS BUSINESS GROUPS 641826 U.BEST HOUSE Electronics, Café, Food
BAKERY & CAFE Bamskateshop.com.vn TRAVEL GEAR Court
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen AMERICAN CHAMBER OF 0978 967588
Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach COMMERCE (AMCHAM) BLUE DRAGON Ubesthouse.com SAIGON SQUARE
Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi
Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
Nghia, Q1
Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 amchamvietnam.com 2210 2084 VESPA SHOP
9am to 9pm
touslesjoursbakery.com VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Cosmetics, Perfume,
The background of this Ko- 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER GINKGO Stocks a wide range of Ves- Clothing, Accessories,
rean bakery chain makes
interesting reading. Estab- OF COMMERCE VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING pa-inspired tidbits and mem- Electronics
lished in 1996, in 2004 they (AUSCHAM) 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 orabilia including t-shirts,
opened in the US, 2005 in 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: riding gear, Italian helmets,
China and 2007 in Vietnam. 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, (08) 6270 5928 Respro face masks, DVDs, VINCOM CENTER
French-styled with an Asian Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 ginkgo-vietnam.com books, bags, magazines, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton,
touch, the bare-brick décor auschamvn.org Quality, original, Vietnam- posters and more. Rental Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999
makes this a popular joint. themed tees are the show- scooters and bikes available. 9am to 10pm
Has over 25 locations in Vi- piece at this airy French-run Cosmetics, Perfume,
etnam. BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP store. Designs are inspired CORPORATE GIFTS Clothing, Accessories,
OF VIETNAM (BBGV) by anything from the Viet- Electronics, Café, Food
25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) namese flag, local telecom Court
VOELKER 3829 8430 wires and motorbikes to AMBRIJ
BAKERY bbgv.org creative, Siddharta-style 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) imagery. Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ZEN PLAZA
6296 0066
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1
voelker-vietnam.com CANADIAN CHAMBER OF A one-stop-shop concept
COMMERCE (CANCHAM) IPA-NIMA company providing market- Tel: (08) 3925 0339
French–run bakery selling
probably the tastiest range of Room 305, New World Hotel, BAGS & ACCESSORIES ing services including POSM, 9am to 10pm
patisseries, breads, quiches 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) corporate gifts and luxury Cosmetics, Perfume,
and pies in town. The signa- 3754 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: ranges of business gifts Clothing, Accessories,
ture passion–fruit tart is a canchamvietnam.org (08) 3824 2701 from international brands Electronics, Café, Food
must try. Open to all nationalities, the ipa-nima.com like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Court
Canadian Chamber of Com- Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix,
DAY TRIPPER: HCMC GIANG DIEN PARK
With a public holiday

at his disposal, Jon
Aspin jumped at the
chance to swim in a
waterfall 40km out
of town.
W
hen photographer Rodney Pay Off For the most part, however, it was
suggested we go to Giang The pay-off to road travel in this country families and teenagers having a great
Dien on the King’s Day public can be sweet, and arriving at the grounds, time. Smiling freely and dripping wet
holiday, where there was a I was filled with optimism. To me it looked in jeans slipping below boxer shorts, a
waterfall he knew we could swim in, I exactly the type of space expats would group of the latter approached us as we
didn’t have to think about it for long. love, if only it were closer to the city. neared the hub of the park. In possession
Setting off, I had a second reason to get It’s a shame, but ultimately not enough of that ubiquitous item, the selfie-stick, we
excited. This would be the maiden voyage people explore these simple-to-find places managed to get our heads in several group
of my new toy, the Lifan 125 I’d just bought independently. shots. It was funny, an hour ago we were
from a Swiss guy, who’d driven it down After parking and paying entry, a just another couple of white guys in the
from Hanoi. As keen as I was to stretch tree-lined cobblestone path led us up to a city, yet here we were, beacons of curiosity
the legs of my new steed, it was still a campground featuring man-made lakes, and intrigue.
relief when after 45 minutes of dusty, busy postcard perfect bridges and rotundas
highway, we turned off the northbound adjacent to fields of well-maintained grass. Delivery
QL51, by-passing Dong Nai’s provincial Rare. All of it added up to what we agreed Continuing on, I was anxious to see this
capital of Bien Hoa, and into the area was very date-friendly territory, and there waterfall that had been promised me, and
where Giang Dien Park is. were plenty of couples doing just that. I’m happy to say, after checking out the

PHOTOS BY RODNEY HUGHES
various levels of accommodation on offer for, and, satisfied that we’d done sufficient from routine that we both needed.
— you can stay here in anything from a exploring of the nature park all around us, Mindful of the highway journey home,
tent raised off the floor by a timber deck, to we settled down in the shade for what was we soon cut ourselves off and headed back
a three-star fibro hut — that my new travel a very chill, very relaxing time, swimming to the big smoke.
buddy delivered. between drinks and chatting about the
Watched on by the ever-vigilant vagaries of what had brought us, and keeps
lifeguards, after rounding a couple of us here in this country, garnering some Information
corners and gradually blending into our local attention as we went about it.
new environment, there before me was a At first reluctant to don the luminous From Ho Chi Minh City get on the Hanoi
perfectly swimmable, cascading waterfall life-jacket, two Heinekens in, it was very Highway (QL1A) and head north until
and lake. It looked hectic at first, speckled much a case of ‘if you can’t beat them, you reach the bridge over the Dong Nai
by dozens of bright orange Vietnamese join them’, and before too long I was River. Go over and turn right onto QL51
swimmers in mandatory life jackets, but loving it, swimming and climbing over immediately after, before continuing on for
there was no way I wasn’t going in. the waterfall’s rocks, chatting with locals about another 15km. Look for a sign for
Not wanting to waste any more time in and wholeheartedly enjoying being part ‘Giang Dien Park’ and turn right, then follow
the stifling heat, beers were soon ordered, of such a fun and innocent atmosphere. more signs to get there. For more info click
bamboo recliners were located and paid Completely refreshed, it was just the break on giangdien.com.vn.

BUSINESS BUFF
A BREAKDOWN OF VIETNAM’S GDP IN 2016 BY SHANE DILLON
W
e constantly hear that supported by strengthening consumer infrastructure throughout the country.
Vietnam’s GDP (Gross confidence and the growth in private This can be seen in new highways, deep-
Domestic Product) is growing consumption. water ports and railroad improvements and
at rates of around 5% or 6% new developments. Government spending
a year. In 2014, this reached US$186.2 Gross Private Investment (I) will be affected by lower oil revenue and
billion, almost triple what it was in 2006. Net private investment is gross private corporate tax cuts and contingent liabilities
While this is touted almost universally as investment less depreciation. This category associated with state-owned enterprise
being positive, what exactly does this mean? includes fixed investments (factories, debts and state-owned banks. The currency,
And what is the outlook for 2016? machines etc.), inventory investments while currently stable, could be negatively
GDP represents the monetary value of (material to be assembled, goods etc.) and affected by rate changes in the US and this
all goods and services produced within a residential investment (purchase of private will affect the large public financing needs
nation’s geographic borders over a specified properties by the household sector). and the country's costs to raise funds in the
period of time. One method of calculating the In Vietnam this category shows high international bond market.
GDP of a country is called the Expenditure growth in all areas. The rise in credit available
Approach. The Expenditure Approach is (12% September 2015 year-on-year) and the Net Exports (NX)
calculated using the sum of four categories of increase in properties available for purchase This category is the value of the country’s
expenditure of output. The four categories are: (particularly in Ho Chi Minh City) supports total exports less total imports. This results
(1) Gross Private Consumption (C) this component of GDP. The role on effects in a country having a trade surplus, deficit
(2) Gross Private Investment (I) of recent international trade agreements or trade balance. Vietnam’s rising trade
(3) Government Purchases (G) supports continued fixed investments into deficit (spending more on imports than
(4) Net Exports (NX) or (X-M) the country as FDI as companies prepare they earn on exports) means Vietnam’s
Giving the following formula: GDP = C + to take advantage of the new trade terms, trade position weakened in 2015, narrowing
I + G + NX particularly in exports. Lastly, the inventory the current account surplus and this is
required to support the robust growth in projected to narrow significantly in 2016 due
Gross Private Consumption (C) exports particularly in the technology sector to moderating exports, sustained import
This category comprises all goods and (telephones, electronics and computers), growth stocked by strong domestic consumer
services purchased by households in Vietnam reflects the high import content of Vietnam’s demands for foreign goods.
and includes spending on services, non- manufacturing exports.
durable goods and durable goods. With a Summary
low-inflation outlook due to low energy Government Spending (G) Two of the four categories remain strong
and food prices and a stable currency, this This category is the total spending on (C) and (I) and two categories reflect
component of GDP is expected to remain goods and services by local, provincial drains on GDP growth (G) and (NX). The
strong in Vietnam in 2016. Interest rates, and federal government. Recent World baseline outlook is positive for Vietnam
while high by international standards at Bank reports suggest rising government on balance, however downside risks will
6.5%, remain low compared to recent years in capital expenditure and this reflects the dominate in 2016.
Vietnam, which generally means households government’s commitment to the three Rs Shane can be contacted at shanedillon@
will save less and spend more. This is further (railroads, roads, rivers) strategy to invest in pacificcross.com

Ungaro and more. Also do and Dien Bien Phu, the spa-
event management services. cious showroom specialises
in sofas and other furniture
COOKING CLASSES such as table sets, shelves
and kitchen cabinets. There
is a large selection of carpets
OVERLAND CLUB as well as numerous choices
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, of curtains and accessories.
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
The Overland Club organises EM EM
pottery classes, Vietnamese- SOUVENIRS
AIRLINES Japanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
monthly special activities, 8am to 9.30pm
such as the Soba Festival,
AIR ASIA pottery painting classes, the
airasia.com art of decorating paper and FEELING TROPIC
multinational cuisine days. FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
AIR FRANCE SAIGON COOKING Specialising in interior de-
airfrance.com.vn CLASSES BY HOA TUC signs and landscaping, this
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) three-storey building is so
3825 8485 packed full of items for sale
saigoncookingclass.com that it doesn’t seem to have
CATHAY PACIFIC Learn to cook quality Viet- enough space for all of its
cathaypacific.com/vn namese cuisine with local products. The basement sto-
specialist Hoa Tuc. The three- rey carries outdoor furniture
hour lesson, conducted by an such as bamboo-imitation
English-speaking Vietnamese and mosaic table sets, while
CHINA AIRLINES chef, includes a trip around the second level stocks all
china-airlines.com Ben Thanh Market to gather types of indoor furniture ex-
fresh ingredients for the class. cept beds. Accessories are
found on the level above.
JAPAN AIRLINES VIETNAM COOKERY

vn.jal.com CENTRE MEKONG CREATIONS
Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
vietnamese-cooking-class- (08) 2210 3110
JETSTAR PACIFIC saigon.com mekong-creations.org
jetstar.com/vn/en
CRAFTS & FURNITURE
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
KOREAN AIR ATC FURNITURE 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
koreanair.com ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE 3823 9459
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, 8am to 8pm
Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932
6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
LAO AIRLINES Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) MEKONG QUILTS
laoairlines.com 3840 3946 HAND-MADE QUILTS
atc-craft.com 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
MALAYSIA AUSTIN HOME
AIRLINES REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
malaysiaairlines.com 42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: NHA XINH
(08) 3519 0023 HOME FURNISHINGS
austinhomeinteriors.com 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
This An Phu-based shop Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
SINGAPORE stocks antique repro furni- nhaxinh.com
AIRLINES ture. All products are sam-
singaporeair.com ples, so it’s limited and ex-
clusive with only one or two REMIX DECO
pieces of each particular INDOOR FURNITURE
item. Also has a great range 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
THAI AIRWAYS of imported fabrics up on the Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
thaiairways.com.vn 2nd floor and an in-house remixdeco.com
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and THE FURNITURE HOUSE
TIGER AIRWAYS delivery within four weeks. HOME FURNISHINGS
tigerair.com 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
CHI LAI
HOME FURNISHINGS
VIETJETAIR 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: THE FURNITURE
vietjetair.com (08) 3519 4543 WAREHOUSE
chilai.com EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
This well-known Vietnam- 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
ese furniture brand is a (08) 6657 0788
VIETNAM good choice for most fami- thefurniturewarehouse.
AIRLINES lies with its respected high- com.vn
vietnamairlines.com quality designs and competi-
tive prices. Located on the
corner of Pham Ngoc Thach

BODY AND
WORKOUT RULES
TEMPLE BY PHIL KELLY
E
veryone has his or her favourite
exercises when it comes to
working out. However, when
98% of people do not achieve the
results they want from their efforts in the
gym, we need to look at what is actually
being done.
The problem is that most people spend
their precious workout time on exercises
and programmes that are, generally
speaking, a waste of time. Inappropriate
workload, intensity, frequency, tempo
and duration are the key components
that must be understood to optimise
results.
I’m not talking about individual
exercises that may not be appropriate
for certain individuals based upon their
conditioning level or training goals. I
am talking about training principles that
are scientifically proven to create the
ideal physiological benefits to maximise
health and fat loss.
The common method people
undertake when attempting to achieve
fat loss and health is to think that the
more calories they burn the better.
Hence, they run for as long as they can
as hard as they can. However, frequent
medium-to-difficult sustained efforts
over a medium-to-long duration (aka
Resistance training exercises like squats are ideal for burning fat
“chronic cardio”) leads to over-stress,
fatigue, burnout, injury, accelerated
aging and an increased disease risk.
Whereas the correct resistance training is extremely good for us and should be the “pump”. Body weight exercises are
improves androgen (rejuvenation and done every day. If you are going to run perfect for this
repair) levels and if done correctly can (for more than 30 minutes) do so at an b) Use whole body multi-joint exercises:
improve “usable fitness.” Correct cardio easy pace. This will not overstress your Single-leg squats, lunge jumps, step-ups,
and resistance training have their place system and teach your body to utilize fat chin-ups, push-ups, inverted rows, wall
in a well-rounded health and fat loss as a fuel. shoulder press/stands, full sit-ups —
routine. Intervals: Burn more belly fat with again body weight stuff is perfect
The aim of any health and fat loss sprint intervals. A large number of c) Use very short rest periods: this will
programme should be to maximise convincing studies show that high- require more maximal effort and produce
your fat burning hormone profile. It intensity interval training is the best for more HGH and lactic acid — the belly fat-
should also not over expose your body losing belly fat. burning hormones
to prolonged stress or cause muscle d) Once per week lift heavy: this type of
loss. Therefore the most effective Resistance Training training boosts HGH and testosterone and
programme will focus on energy Resistance exercise makes the muscles maximizes insulin sensitivity
system training, fat-burning hormone become more sensitive to insulin — Although any exercise you do has
production and metabolic efficiency. It equates to less fat-storing hormone some benefit (and of course doing
should also be periodically reviewed release. In addition, strength training something is better than nothing), these
to consider progress and match your resets the part of the brain that is involved principles will provide you the best
lifestyle requirements. Below are some in releasing hormones, so that cortisol possible workout schedule. Train smarter,
recommendations to consider when balance (stress) improves. It also elevates fight the aging process and feel better by
creating an optimal health and fat loss the most beneficial fat-burning hormones choosing the most effective and efficient
workout: — testosterone, human growth hormone exercises for your workouts.
(HGH), adrenaline and lactic acid. The Phil is founder and master trainer at
Cardio key elements of your resistance workouts Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934
Move: Your body should use fat as a should include the following: 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com
fuel at low intensity work. First look to a) Train with a high volume: perform or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.
increase your steps per day… walking a high number of reps and work for com)

HCMC
CYCLING
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for ELITE DENTAL GROUP.
two to five-year-olds elimi- 57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC,
nate the need for training Tel: (08) 3933 3737
Essentials wheels or stabilisers, and

support proper balance de-
velopment.
info@elitedental.com.vn
elitedental.com.vn
Elite Dental is an interna-
tional and well-equipped
clinic, which provides spe-
JETT CYCLES cialized dental services in-
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM cluding ALL-ON-4 Implants,
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi ALL-ON-6 implants, dental
Sau, Q3 implants, prosthodontics,
jett-cycles.com Invisalign & orthodontics.
The showroom home of Jett Luxury design and our den-
Cycles, a homegrown cy- tal experts will bring you
cling company with all prod- an extremely comfortable
ucts designed in Vietnam. experience.
Sells up budget bicycles to
high-end product, with the
full range of accessories in
between. Also stocks GT and INTERNATIONAL SOS
Cannondale. DENTAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
SAIGON CYCLES Tel: (08) 3829 8424
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES internationalsos.com
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Globally renowned provider
Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) of medical assistance and in-
5410 3114 ternational healthcare offers
xedapcaocap.com full dental services in the
Specialising in Trek and Surly, clinic. Foreign and Vietnam-
Saigon Cycles is also famed ese dentists provide high
for its Sunday morning rides. skilled dental service. Or-
Sells the full range of acces- thodontics is also available.
sories and also does bicycle
repairs. MINH KHAI DENTAL
CLINIC
THE BIKE SHOP 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com STARLIGHT
The go-to location for all your DENTAL CLINIC
cycling needs in District 2. INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Sells a range of brands in- 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
cluding Cannondale, Jett, GT Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
and Aluboo, as well as the 24, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
full selection of accessories. 6282 8822
Organises regular cycle rides, starlightdental.net
does repairs and rentals. Long–established, modern
Check facebook.com/the- clinic with French, Canadian,
bikeshopvn for more details. Belgian & Vietnamese den-
tists. A favourite of the for-
M M M eign residential community
due to its modern and effec-
DENTAL CLINICS tive treatments allied with
extremely reasonable prices.
ACCADENT
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com WESTCOAST INT’L DEN-
TAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL SOS Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung
DENTAL CLINIC Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777
Tel: (08) 3829 8424 westcoastinternational.com
internationalsos.com An international dental clinic
Globally renowned provider equipped with the latest
of medical assistance and in- technology, the comfortable
ternational healthcare offers clinics offer cosmetic and
full dental services in the implant dentistry with a fo-
clinic. Foreign and Vietnam- cus on making each patient’s
ese dentists provide high experience anxiety and pain
skilled dental service. Or- free.
thodontics is also available.

HCMC
MAPLE HEALTHCARE ists, lecture series and an frozen meat and fish, fruit,
DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS exchange programme that vegetables, herbs, spices
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 invites international artists / and a wide selection of dairy
(across from FV Hospital), Tel: curators to organise or col- products.
Tel: (08) 5410 0100 laborate on exhibitions.
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare, GROCERIES & LIQUOR THE WAREHOUSE
dental services and chiro- WINE SHOP
Essentials practic medicine, the re-

cently opened Maple Health-
care comes replete with the
ANNAM GOURMET
MARKET
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine re-
latest technology together
with efficient and comfort-
GROCERY & DELI
16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
tailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of SPORTS
able service. (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao wines, they also stock im-
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 ported beers, bottled mineral CRICKET SAIGON RAIDERS
M M M Annam-gourmet.com water and spirits. Saigonraiders.com
Attractive and spacious
GALLERIES French–owned grocery shop ECCS (THE ENGLISH
stocking a large range of VEGGY’S CRICKET CLUB SAIGON RUGBY CLUB
foods, organic fruit and GROCERS & DELI OF SAIGON) RMIT University, 702
CRAIG THOMAS vegetables, imported beers 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: Adam Zakharoff Nguyen Van Linh, Tan
GALLERY and wines. Also sells luxury (08) 3823 8526 Email: adamzakharoff@ Phong, Q7
27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: branded products from the Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, gmail.com saigonrugbyfootballclub@
0903 888431 likes of Fauchon. The deli Veggy’s retails some of the yahoo.com
cthomasgallery.com upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung best quality fruit and veg
Craig Thomas Gallery offers branch serves tasty baguette available in the city. Also ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET
rolls in a comfortable lounge has a wide selection of im- CLUB OF SAIGON) SAIGON SAINTS
a compelling mix of up-and- saigonsaints.com
area with free Wi–Fi, and of- ported food products includ- Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
coming and established 770 038
local artists. In operation fers probably the best selec- ing USDA beef, the same beef
deepteshgill@gmail.com SPORTS — GENERAL
since 2009, its founder has tion of cheese and cured served up at El Gaucho.
been promoting Vietnam- meats in town.
ese art for a decade. Now ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
has a second newer gallery HAIRDRESSERS, CLUB IN SAIGON) saigonhash.com
at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC CLASSIC FINE FOODS SALONS & SPAS Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
GROCERIES & IMPORTER 973 244
No. 17, Street 12 (perpen- gmunish29@yahoo.co.in RANGERS BASEBALL
DOGMA dicular to Tran Nao street), AVEDA HERBAL SPA TEAM
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao isao.shimokawaji@sap-
dogmacollection.com classicfinefoods.com Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 PSSC (PAKISTAN porobeer.co.jp
The home of Vietnamese Supplier for the city’s five– avedaherbal@gmail.com SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)
propaganda art and a col- star hotels, also distributing Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
lection put together over the brands like San Pellegrino, 469 090 SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
last two decades by art col- Rougie foie gras, Galbani CAT MOC SPA samie.cashmiri@gmail. DARTS LEAGUE
cheese, fresh poultries, 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) com thesidl.com
lector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes meat, live seafood and veg- 6295 8926
from the war period when etables. You can now find all catmocspa.com SAIGON INTERNATIONAL
SACC (SAIGON AUS-
provocative poster art was the products at the gourmet Aimed exclusively at ladies TRALIA CRICKET CLUB) SOFTBALL LEAGUE
used to inspire and motivate. shop on location. and couples only, treatments Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 saigonsoftball.info
Sells prints of the originals at this Japanese spa include 998 824
and related products. facial, body and foot care, sacccricket@gmail.com
and Japanese-style haircuts, SAIGON SHOOTERS
as well as steam-sauna, par- NETBALL CLUB
GALERIE QUYNH affin and waxing services. SSC (SRI LANKA saigonshootersnetball.
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) SPORTS CLUB) blogspot.com
3836 8019 Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
galeriequynh.com CONCEPT COIFFURE 571 010
In addition to working with 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: suhard.amit@yahoo.com SAIGON SPORTS ACAD-
artists based in Vietnam, (08) 3519 4625 EMY
Galerie Quynh also exhib- Conceptcoiffure.vn 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY Hair stylist and colourist spe- UCC (UNITED CRICKET 7303 1100
its the work of artists from
cialist Sandrine has relocated CLUB) saigonsportsacademy.com
around the world. This well- BUTCHERS
her long-standing flagship Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
established gallery supports 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
npasifali@hotmail.com
education through talks, lec- 3744 2565 SQUASH
tures and publications. meatworksasia.com in Thao Dien. A full range of The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Focusing on the retail trade, services is offered including VIETNAM CRICKET AS- Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
the meat at this Australian- a dedicated kids salon. SOCIATION (VCA) 2098 ext 176
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE managed butcher comes Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 thelandmarkvietnam.com
ARTS MUSEUM pre-prepared and, if you so 200 598
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: wish, pre-marinated. Sells FAME NAILS SALON manish@ambrij.com
(08) 3829 4441 up some of the best import- 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 TORNADOS HOCKEY
baotangmythuattphcm.vn ed meats in town together 682 827 FOOTBALL & RUGBY CLUB
Set in one of the finest with homemade sausages, famenails.com 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10,
remaining buildings of free-range products and Tel: 0938 889899
colonial-era Vietnam, this excellent Australian grass- AUSTRALIAN RULES James.chew@vietnam-
multi-storey museum houses fed steak. GLOW SPA FOOTBALL hockey.vn
collections spanning centu- 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: Tel: 0937 683 230
ries of Vietnamese art. Has (08) 3823 8368 vietnamswans.com
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
regular exhibitions. glowsaigon.com RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van
PHUONG HA Modern and bright down- Linh, Q7
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
GROCERS town spa, offers massages gauloisdesaigon.com Saigon-ultimate.com
SAN ART 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) lasting from 30 minutes, to
48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, 3914 1318 two-hour hot stone therapy,
Tel: (08) 6294 7059 A small yet amazingly well- includes one suite with a OLYMPIQUE SAIGON X–ROCK CLIMBING
san-art.org stocked store that puts Jacuzzi bath; offers hand Contact Fred on 0919 709 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
San Art is an independ- many a supermarket in this and foot care and a hair 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 Tel: (08) 6278 5794
ent, artist-run exhibition country to shame. As well styling area. 171. xrockclimbing.com
space that offers residency as a dizzying selection of astere@hotmail.fr
programmes for young art- imported foods, also sells

HAIR BAR SPA TROPIC care provider that can offer
CONTEMPORARY SALON 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) a countrywide network of
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREE- 3910 5575 integrated clinics for foreign
PHONE) 1800 1108 spatropic.com and local populations, FMP’s
hairbar.vn Spa Tropic is a stylish bou- main specialties include fam-
A unique themed hair salon tique spa housed in the ily medicine, pediatrics and
where stylists use no scis- refurbished former Chilean emergency medicine as well
sors but styling equipment Consulate. Spa Tropic has as health checks and work
only, giving female clients a long-standing reputation permit health-tests.
the opportunity to get their among expats and visitors
hair done on the run. Of alike for its professional
course, they have to look quality service. FV HOSPITAL
fabulous, too. Fortunately INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
this is one of Hair Bar’s spe- HOSPITALS & 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon
cialities. Check the salon out MEDICAL CLINICS South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08)
on Facebook: facebook.com/ 5411 3333
hairbarvn. Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
AMERICAN fvhospital.com
CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC International hospital
INDOCHINE SPA CHIROPRACTOR whose standard of health
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, care matches that found
(08) 3827 7188 Tel: (08) 3939 3930 anywhere, with 19 full–time
Indochine-spa.com.vn www.acc.vn French doctors and 58 Viet-
Indochine Spa provides a ACC provides effective chi- namese doctors, providing
peaceful and serene atmos- ropractic, physiotherapy, expertise in 30 medical and
phere with aromatic scents acupuncture and foot care surgical areas, especially ma-
and lulling melodies. Custom- treatments through the use ternity care.
ers are pampered by quali- of cutting edge technology
fied therapists using natural for back, neck and knee
French products in a clean pain, sports injuries as well FV SAIGON CLINIC
and pleasant environment. as all types of foot related INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
problems without the need 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
of drugs or surgery. Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
JASMINE (08) 6290 6167
45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: fvhospital.com
(08) 3827 2737 AMERICAN EYE CENTER State–of–the–art medical cen-
Jasminespa.vn 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 tre located in District 1. Ex-
Spa–related salon with a Ton Dat Tien, Q7 perienced American, French,
good reputation for quality Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759 and Vietnamese doctors pro-
and comfort offers washes americaneyecentervn.com vide the full spectrum health
and leisurely haircuts from American Eye Center is lo- care. Plus sports medicine,
VND330,000 plus a range of cated in the heart of Phu My cosmetic treatments, skin
related services including Hung, providing eye care ser- care and surgical consulta-
massage and some excellent vices to Adults and Children tions.
treatments. by an American Board-cer-
tified ophthalmologist with
17 years of experience. The HANH PHUC
MERCI American-standard facility is INTERNATIONAL
17/6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: equipped with state of the HOSPITAL
(08) 3825 8799 art equipments for the early INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
merci-space.com detection and treatment of Binh Duong Boulevard, Th-
A unique nail spa and bis- important eye diseases from uan An District, Binh Duong
tro where you can pamper Lasik and cataract surgeries Tel: (0650) 363 6068
your nails, enjoy a massage, to presbyopia, glaucoma hanhphuchospital.com
meet your friends, enjoy a and diabetic eye disease Claiming to be the first Sin-
meal and sip a cocktail. Pro- treatments. Cosmetic proce- gapore-standard hospital in
vides only waterless nails dures such as eyelid surgery Ho Chi Minh City, this institu-
treatments to avoid bacteria and Botox injections are also tion based on the outskirts
and dry skin as well as Zoya available. of town is gaining a growing
and Kure Bazaar non-toxic reputation for service and
varnishes. treatment. Specialises in pro-
CENTRE MEDICAL viding healthcare to women
INTERNATIONALE (CMI) and children. Has a clinic at
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 3827 2366
A District 2 favourite, this is cmi-vietnam.com HAPPINESS (HANH
the salon to head to for any- This French medical clinic PHUC) ORIENTAL
thing from massage to hair- provides general practice MEDICINE CENTER
cuts, hairwashing to nails. and a range of specialties EASTERN MEDICINE
Cheap prices, too. including cardiology, gyne- 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
cology, psychotherapy, oph- Tel: 0906 684 969
thalmology, paediatrics and
SOI SPA acupuncture.
6th & Rooftop, 44 Nguyen INTERNATIONAL SOS
Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8678 HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC
soispa.vn FAMILY MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
A lovely little place with nail PRACTICE 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
services, shampoo head INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Tel: (08) 3829 8424
massages, and other sim- 34 Le Duan Street, Q1; 95 Thao internationalsos.com
ple treatments for a quick Dien Q2, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 The world’s leading provider
getaway experience. Also vietnammedicalpractice.com of medical assistance and in-
features a rooftop terrace Family Medical Practice ternational healthcare offers
and a great little drinks and (FMP) is the largest and one primary health care, diagnos-
wine selection. Open daily of the oldest foreign, pri- tic services and 24/7 emer-
from 10am to 9pm. vately-owned, international gency care. Specialist care is
health care providers in Vi- available in many fields.
etnam. As the only health

HCMC
IF CONSULTING AUSTRALIAN
IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A INTERNATIONAL
Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) SCHOOL (AIS)
3827 7362 Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
insuranceinasia.com Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
Independent advisors that 2727; Thao Dien Campus,
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC represent top reputable APSC Compound, 36 Thao
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS medical insurers provide Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960;
Essentials 107B Truong Dinh, Q3

Tel: 01676 71 75 79
sianclinic.com
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai
Chi Tho (East-West High-
way), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08)
The Australian and Cana- For emergencies call 0903 3742 4040
dian managed SIAN Clinic 732365 aisvietnam.com
offers a wide range of sk- The Australian International
incare medical therapies to School is an IB World School
treat problems by an expe- LIBERTY INSURANCE with three world-class cam-
rienced dermatologist and 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana puses in District 2, offering
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
1800 599 998
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
libertyinsurance.com.vn school with the IB Primary
International insurance firm Years Programme (PYP), Cam- DANCENTER
providing the full range of bridge Secondary Programme 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE services to the individual — (including IGCSE) and IB Di- dancentervn.com
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS car insurance, travel insur- ploma Programme (DP). Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: ance, health insurance, home funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
(08) 3925 1990 insurance and much more. this modern dance studio.
stamfordskin.com ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL
Stamford Skin Centre offers a PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU
broad range of medical and NOAH JAMES 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING
aesthetic skin treatments. INSURANCE AGENCY Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
Their international derma- Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858 Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 helenekling.com
tologists and doctors ensure noahjamesinsurance.com etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc
accurate diagnosis and safe Skype: jp.global Following an international
treatment procedures. It A full service broker offer- curriculum for children aged INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER
houses excellent equipment ing expatriates and local 18 months to six years, in the 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
for a variety of procedures. Vietnamese customized so- early years, an Inquire-Think- Inspirato.edu.vn
lutions from highly rated in- Learn approach is followed,
surers for life, health, travel, inspired by the Reggio Emilia
TRADITIONAL as well as speciality cover for Project of Northern Italy. It is MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE
MEDICINE HOSPITAL student travel, medevac, in- a play-based, inquiry model 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
EASTERN MEDICINE ternational marine, extreme in which children co-con- Minhnguyenpiano.com
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, athletics and adventure. For struct their learning in close,
Tel: (08) 3932 6579 details contact: james@noah- respectful collaboration with
jamesinsurance.com their teachers. This helps PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON
us provide an environment 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE where children take respon- paa.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC TENZING PACIFIC sibility for their own learn- Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC SERVICES ing, allowing them a head in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: start in life. and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and
(08) 3910 4545 (08) 3821 5367 a mixture of private and group classes.
victoriavn.com ten-pac.com
Well-regarded clinic offering A full-service insurance bro- BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
general examinations and ker offering a wide range of SCHOOL (BIS) PIANO CLASSES
specialising in pediatrics, di- insurance solutions from the 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 01225 636682
gestive diseases, cardiology, best local and international Tel: (08) 3744 2335 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
women’s health and internal providers. Recommendations bisvietnam.com
medicine. Offers a member- are based exclusively on cli- Inspected and approved by
ship programme and coop- ent needs. the British Government, BIS SAIGON MOVEMENT
erates with most insurance provides a British style cur- Tel: 0987 027 722
companies in Vietnam and INTERNATIONAL riculum for an international saigonmovement@gmail.com
abroad. SCHOOLS student body from pre-school
to Year 13. The school is
INSURANCE staffed by British qualified SAIGON SEAL TEAM
ABC INTERNATIONAL and trained teachers with 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SCHOOL (ABCIS) recent UK experience. Fully
PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM Saigon South Campus 1 (Pri- accredited by the Council of
4th/12th Floor Continental mary & Secondary), Tel: (08) International Schools and a SAIGON PONY CLUB
Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon member of FOBISIA, BIS is the 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Tel: (08) 3821 9908 South Campus 2 (Founda- largest international school in Saigonponyclub.com
pacificcross.com.vn tion Stage & Early Primary), Vietnam.
Pacific Cross Vietnam re- Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36
cently changed names, theabcis.com SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY
from Blue Cross Vietnam, Rated as ‘outstanding’ by CANADIAN 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
to align with their regional British Government Inspec- INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL saigonsportsacademy.com
sister companies. Together tors, academic results puts 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, International coaches provide training in soccer, basket-
they form the Pacific Cross ABCIS among the top 8% of Tel: (08) 5412 3456 ball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16
group of companies with schools worldwide. ABCIS cis.edu.vn years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth
over 60 years’ experience is accredited by CIE, AQA, The first Canadian interna- soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
providing health and travel the Education Development tional school in Vietnam
insurance to people who call Trust and members of CO- serves local and foreign
Asia home. Their reputation BIS and FOBISIA. Provides students from Kindergarten TAE KWON DO
for transparent, honest and education for two to 18 to grade 12. Talented, certi- BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
reliable service means they year olds in a supportive fied teachers implement the
are the strength behind and friendly environment. internationally recognised
your insurance. Contact Ontario curriculum to cre- VINSPACE
them now for a free quote. ate a student-centred learn- 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
ing environment promoting vin-space.com
academic excellence. Has a

newly built campus. Nobel Education Network. SAIGON SOUTH
The school educates global INTERNATIONAL
citizens to enjoy learning, in- SCHOOL (SSIS)
quiring and caring for others. 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style ed-
ucation (SAT, IB and AP) from
elementary to high-school,
emphasizing a multi–cultural
student environment and a
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL commitment to well–round-
HO CHI MINH CITY ed education at all levels.
28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08)
3898 9100 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
ishcmc.com SAIGON PEARL SAIGON STAR
HCMC’s most established 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
international school offers Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99 Residential Area No. 5,
three International Bacca- issp.edu.vn Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
laureate programmes for Vietnam’s only international 3742 7827
students from two to 18 school offering a U.S. cur- saigonstarschool.edu.vn
years old. ISHCMC will be riculum for children aged Supported by the Cam-
launching a new secondary 18 months to 11 years old. bridge International Primary
campus in 2017, featuring With 100% English language Programme, SSIS integrates
Vietnam’s first Innovation immersion, a library con- Montessori methods into
Center, a 350-seat profes- taining over 13,500 English nursery and kindergarten
sional theatre, NBA-sized books and more than 60% programmes to create a
basketball courts and a 25m of students achieving above stimulating learning envi-
competitive swimming pool. grade level English, ISSP ronment. Small class sizes
students are well prepared allow experienced teachers
for secondary school at ISH- to cater to individual needs.
CMC or ISHCMC - American
Academy.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
MONTESSORI Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 2639 (08) 3519 4236
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL montessori.edu.vn smartkidsinfo.com
HO CHI MINH CITY — Aiming to encourage chil- This international childcare
AMERICAN ACADEMY dren’s engagement with centre provides children ages
16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) their surroundings, MIS of- 18 months to six years with
3898 9100 fers children from age three a high quality education in
aavn.edu.vn to 12 a classic Montessori a playful and friendly envi-
ISHCMC — American Acad- education as well as a variety ronment.
emy is a U.S. curriculum of extra–curricular activities.
secondary school for stu-
dents aged 11 to 18 years THE AMERICAN SCHOOL
old. Early university credits, RENAISSANCE 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
a 1:1 University Counseling INTERNATIONAL Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
Program, and an extensive SCHOOL SAIGON tas.edu.vn
EAL program set our grad- 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Accredited by the Western
uates on the road to 100% Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext Association of Schools and
acceptance rate at overseas 120/121/122 Colleges (WASC), TAS repre-
universities and a US$1 mil- renaissance.edu.vn sents 20 nationalities and
lion scholarship fund. Renaissance is an Interna- provides an American-based
tional British school provid- curriculum with rigorous
ing an inclusive curriculum performance standards and
KIDS CLUB SAIGON based upon the British cur- a variety of academic offer-
79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; riculum complemented by ings. Runs advanced place-
27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) the International Primary ment courses and university
5412 5944 Curriculum and Interna- credit courses through their
kidsclubsaigon.com tional Baccalaureate. It is a partnership with Missouri
Early childhood centres in family school with first-class State University, as well as
Phu My Hung offering crea- facilities including a 350-seat an Intensive ESL Program for
tive play-based programmes theatre, swimming pool, English Language Learners.
for children ages two to five. mini-pool, play-areas, gym-
Known for unique facilities, nasium, IT labs, music and M M M
experienced staff, high- drama rooms, science labs
quality learning resources, and an all-weather pitch. PROPERTY RENTALS
and small class sizes.
SAIGON KIDS CHUM’S HOUSE

EUROPEAN EDUCATIONAL 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL CHILDCARE CENTRE 3920 7237
HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, 3740 8081
Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257 saigonkidskindergarten.com EASY SAIGON
eishcmc.com SKECC has evolved over 10 Tel: 0932 112694
The European International years to create a creative, easysaigon.com
School offers a supportive playful learning environ- The Easy Saigon website is
and challenging academic ment for children ages two a useful real estate website
education from Early Years to six. Limited class sizes and helping expats to find apart-
to Grade 12 based on the IB highly engaged teachers en- ments in Ho Chi Minh City.
curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Tal- sure personal attention for Enquiries via their website
ent School and is part of the all students. are welcome.

HCMC
HAPPY HOUSE Just relocated to its new provides tailored relocation INTERCONTINENTAL
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, home in District 2, Saigon services. ASIANA SAIGON
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 Scooter Centre is more than RESIDENCES
just the place to go for all Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
your classic scooter needs. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
NAM HOUSE Also does accessories, qual- Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 intercontinental.com/sai-
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao ity imported helmets and Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District gonres
bike rentals. 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 Adjacent to the InterConti-
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
asiantigers-mobility.com
Essentials
nental Asiana Saigon you’ll
namhouse.com.vn Asian Tigers is one of the
Expert in providing rental M M M largest regional move man-
find 260 luxurious and spa-
cious residential suites. The
properties, constructions
and interior decoration, RECRUITMENT & HR agement specialists, with ser-
vices including door-to-door
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
TATTOO
especially in District 2. Sup-
ports professional services
moving, housing and school
searches, local and office ARTISTS
and aftersales. ADECCO VIETNAM moves and pet relocations. NORFOLK MANSION
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: With tattoos becoming
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) (08) 3822 6111
3915 3430 increasingly popular,
RESIDENT VIETNAM JVK INTERNATIONAL norfolkmansion.com.vn over the past few years
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu adecco.com.vn MOVERS Offers a wide choice of luxu-
Adecco is the world leader in 1st Floor, Saigon Port Build- rious and modern furnished there has been an
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com human resources solutions. ing, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, accommodation with atten- increase in the number
Established in Vietnam in Tel: (08) 3826 7655 tive and discreet service. of tattoo studios around
2011, Adecco offers a wide jvkasia.com Facilities include an outdoor the city.
array of global workforce Focused primarily on the in- swimming pool, a gym, sau- Customers have the
SNAP
solutions and specialises in ternational and local move- na and steam room, as well
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, ment of household goods, choice of picking their
finance & legal, sales, mar- as two on-site restaurants.
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 JVK is a leader in the field. own tattoo out of the
snap.com.vn keting & events, IT, engineer-
ing & technical, and office. many look books on
Owners of Snap Café in Dis- RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS offer in the studios or
trict 2, Snap offers a web– LOGICAL MOVES 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:
based real estate search bringing in their own
— VIETNAM (08) 3744 4111
service with information on HR2B/TALENT design. Most of the
RECRUITMENT JSC
396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Riverside-apartments.com
rental properties all around Tel: (08) 3941 5322 Over four Saigon Riverbank studios offer body-
the city, as well as an advi- 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, logicalmoves.net hectares, Riverside Apart- piercing services as
sory service for those averse 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: Specialists in international, ments combines a resort well. Pricing depends
to wading into the internet (08) 6288 3888 local, domestic and office lifestyle with the amenities on size and style.
depths for their needs. hr2b.com moves for household goods of a fully serviced-apartment.
and personal effects through Located minutes from down-
our global partner network. town by high-speed boat
THE NEST G.A. CONSULTANTS Experts in exporting used shuttle. EXILE INK
216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, VIETNAM CO., LTD. scooters that do not have 608
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room documentation. 57 Xuan Thuy, Q2,
Tel: 0938 580800
thenesthousing.com 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, SHERWOOD RESIDENCE Tel: (08) 6675 6956
Well–known property search District 1, HCMC. 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) exileinkvietnam.com
vieclambank.com SANTA FE RELOCATION 3823 2288
and real estate agency with SERVICES sherwoodresidence.com
a useful website listing prop- 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Sherwood Residence is a
erties available for rent and Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: luxurious serviced apart- SAIGON BODY
sale, orientated towards ex- VIETNAMWORKS.COM
(08) 3933 0065 ment property where mod- ART
pats. Website is in English, 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, santaferelo.com
Tel: (08) 5404 1373 ern living spaces meet prime 135 Cong Quynh, Q1
French and Spanish. With over 150 offices around location, comfort and class,
vietnamworks.com the world, Santa Fe offers lo- Tel: 0908 443311
The best-known recruitment with five–star facilities and
M M M website in Vietnam. Post
cal and international moving, service. saigonbodyart.com
pet transportation, relocation
MOTORBIKES you’re the position you’re services including home
looking for and wait for the search, orientation, cultural SOMERSET SERVICED
responses. You’ll get many. training, immigration servic- SAIGON INK
RESIDENCES 26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1
CHI’S CAFÉ Also a good site for expat es and records management. 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
jobseekers. Email Vietnam@santaferelo. Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Tel: (08) 3836 1090
RENTALS
185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
com for info. Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, tattoovietnam.com
Tel: 0903 643446 RELOCATION AGENTS Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Ha-
SERVICED noi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel:
chiscafe.com APARTMENTS
Probably the best-known (08) 6255 9922 SAIGON TATTOO
motorbike rental joint in somerset.com 31B Nguyen Du, Q1
town with over 200 bikes Somerset Chancellor Court,
DIAMOND ISLAND Somerset Ho Chi Minh City saigontattoo.net
and a range of models and LUXURY RESIDENCES and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
makes. Rents by the day or No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Minh City serviced residences
by the month. Call or check AGS FOUR WINDS (VIET- Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
NAM) combine the space and priva- SAIGON TATTOO
the website for details. Also Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678 cy of an apartment with the
does visa extensions. 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A the-ascott.com Group
Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08)
services of a top-rated hotel.
Diamond Island Luxury They come with separate liv- 81 Bui Vien, Q1
3521 0071 Residences offers 68 fully- Tel: 0908 573339
ing and dining areas, as well
SAIGON BIKE RENTALS agsfourwinds.com furnished apartments, from as a fully equipped kitchen xamnghethuat.vn
Tel: 0972 451273 A global leader in internation- two to four-bedroom units where guests can prepare a
nga.natalie@gmail.com al removals and relocations, with spectacular panoramic meal for themselves, their
saigonbikerentals.com with 130 offices globally, we views of the city. Each apart- family and friends.
can move your property to ment comes with a fully- TATTOO SAIGON
Rents out a range of mod- equipped kitchen, en-suite
els including Honda Waves, and from any location. SPORTS & FITNESS 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh,
bathrooms, separate work Q1
Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, and living areas, a balcony,
Luvias, SYM Attilas and modern amenities, elegant Tel: 0938 303838
Excels. Call for details and CHIARA SQUINZI tattoosaigon.com
ALLIED PICKFORDS furnishings and carefully Tel: 01278 163620
prices. chosen trimmings.
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Build- laholista.com
ing, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Experienced health coach
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220 and corporate & school well- TATTOO TAM BI
SAIGON SCOOTER alliedpickfords.com ness coach. Can help clients 209 Bui Vien, Q1
CENTRE With more than 800 offices achieve health and weight
RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS
Tel: 0919 034383
in over 45 countries, Allied goals through an innovative
77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Pickfords is one of the world- holistic approach of food,
xamphunnghethuat.
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690 wide leaders in removal ser- body and mind. Email chi- com
saigonscootercentre.com vices. In Vietnam, Allied also ara@laholista.com for info.

THE LANDMARK CLUB City with international vet- SPORTS GARMENTS
GYM, POOL, SQUASH erinary surgeons. Upholding
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc international standards, the
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 team works tirelessly to help
2098 ext. 176 clients with the support of a
thelandmarkvietnam.com dedicated surgical suite, digi-
In addition to the squash tal X-Ray and comprehensive
BODY AND MIND court, facilities include a diagnostic facilities. SCORE-TECH
BOXING / FITNESS fully–equipped gym room, a 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel:
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 rooftop swimming pool and VIETNAMESE CLASSES (08) 3719 9588
771326 separate male and female score-tech.net
CINEMAS cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An
saunas. Apparel company offer-
VIETNAMESE ing personalised sport
Phu, started by fitness guru LANGUAGE GARDEN
Showcasing the latest garments for companies,
Cyril, features the same VERTICAL ACADEMY 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh
Hollywood blockbusters schools and professional
personalised mentorship CLIMBING GYM Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 sports clubs using the latest
and 3D cinematic Cyril's clients love. Includes Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 vietnameselanguagegarden.
yoga, boxing and fitness for printing technology with a
sensations, chains such 920612 com design team from Barcelo-
as CGV, Lotte and kids and adults every day. facebook.com/vertical.acad-
No membership fees. Pay na. Score-Tech controls the
Galaxy Cinema offer emy.vn VLS SAIGON whole production process
for classes. Tuesday to Fri- A bouldering gym and pro
the most up-to-date and day every week at 5pm. All
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: from fabric production and
modern cinema-going climbing wall replete with (08) 3910 0168 printing to sewing. Big and
activities are safe and run a showroom and café offers
experiences in Saigon. by Cyril himself. vlstudies.com small orders for all sporting
something that this area has Offers courses ranging and commercial needs.
For those partial to more never experienced before, a from basic conversational
esoteric and place to climb. Has a number Vietnamese to upper el-
independent flicks, NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
of climbing sections, runs ementary, intermediate and
GENERAL FITNESS
smaller outlets such as 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: training courses and also advanced levels, as well as
Cinebox and Idecaf carry (08) 3744 6672 sells daily climbing passes special courses including
little known Vietnamese nutrifort.com for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit Vietnamese literature, com-
and European efforts. A well-appointed gym also pass pay VND1 million). position or a 6-hour survival
offering fitness classes and crash course.
personal training with excel- VETERINARY CLINICS
lent facilities. Group classes
CINEBOX include power yoga, pilates,
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 circuit training, martial arts ANIMAL DOCTORS
Tel: (08) 3862 2425 and spinning. Also has a INTERNATIONAL
cinebox.vn restaurant serving calorie– 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien,
calibrated meals. Q2. (08) 6260 3980
animaldoctors.vn
Offers the very highest levels
LOTTE CINEMA of compassionate, compe-
SAIGON HASH
13th Floor, Diamond HOUSE HARRIERS tent and professional veteri-
Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 saigonhash.com nary medicine and surgery
Tel: (08) 38227897 Sunday 2pm sharp, Cara- to all pets in Ho Chi Minh
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, velle hotel. Bus out to the
469 Nguyen Huu Tho, county with a walk, usually
Q7 4km and a run around 8km.
Tel: (08) 3775 2521 VND150,000 for locals and
VND220,000 for expats. Bus,
lottecinemavn.com water, snacks and freeflow
beer after the run.
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 SHERATON FITNESS
Tel: (08) 3920 6688 HEALTH CLUB & GYM
116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Ho-
tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi,
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
246 Nguyen Hong Dao, sheratonsaigon.com
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn SOFITEL PLAZA
FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
IDECAF 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 A small but well-appointed
Tel: (08) 3829 5451 gym with regular fitness
idecaf.gov.vn classes, a steam room and
sauna. Has a small but con-
sistent membership.
CGV CINEMAS
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
STAR FITNESS GYM
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu HEALTH CLUB & GYM
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) Manor Apartments, 91 Nguy-
5412 2222; Level 10, CT en Huu Canh, Binh Thanh,
Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tel: (08) 3514 0253
Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 Steve Chipman, who had a
1981; Level 2, Thao Dien hand in establishing gyms
Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, at the Sofitel hotels in Ha-
noi and Ho Chi Minh City, is
Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000;
behind Star Fitness — one of
Level 5, SC VivoCity, Vietnam’s largest and best-
1058 Nguyen Van Linh, equipped gyms.
Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555;
Level 7, Hung Vuong
Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong,
Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388
cgv.vn

BAR STOOL MARTINI BAR
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
I
f you haven’t dared step foot in recommend asking for one on your next big Put a Smile on Your Face
the Park Hyatt for fear of being date or to impress that hard-to-please client. The décor is sophisticated and comfortable,
immediately relieved of all your featuring lots of timber with splashes
hard-earned cash, fear not. The hotel’s Stalwart of color and intimate lighting for
Martini Bar, officially called 2 Lam Son, Far from being exclusive or stuffy, the when the mood takes you. The drinks
has a 51 percent off happy hour on all Martini Bar has been a stalwart of the inner list is extensive, as are the number of
drinks between 5pm and 8pm, every day city after-work drinks crowd for years. international wines on offer. The staff are
of the week. It’s a mix of local and international guests, there to put a smile on your face, and the
The special extends to some of the most who come to enjoy the street-level people- ones we met were more than happy to give
finely crafted cocktails in the city, so you watching along Hai Ba Trung, and to either some local advice on how to make the most
don’t have to be a high-roller to enjoy relax in a private table setting or be more of your time in town.
something as well put together as what social around the bar. From Wednesday to Also, it’s worth noting that if you’re reading
they’re calling the ‘Behind the Success’. Saturday there are DJs from 9.30pm until late this on your birthday, you should get down
This drink is not on the menu, so it’s a and on Thursdays the first drink is free for there immediately, because on your special
‘by special request only’, but is an aromatic ladies after 9pm. day you can drink for free all night! Just bring
adventure featuring thyme, lemon and If you’re into the classics the 2 Lam some ID and celebrate in style. Why not? It
cinnamon, surrounding a black tea infused Son Mojito (VND320,000) is a winner, as only happens once a year! — Jon Aspin
with bergamot essence, juniper berries and is the Lonely Star (VND300,000) which is 2 Lam Son (Martini Bar) is at 2 Lam Son
mixed with Botanist Gin. a refreshing but not too sweet gin-based Square, Q1, HCMC. The main entrance is on Hai
It’s made by the team behind the bar of drink featuring a homemade mix of Ba Trung. Starting from May, Japanese DJ Take
Lung, Long and Nguyen, and we highly blueberry and ginger. will spin tunes every Friday from 9.30pm

HCMC
BARS & CLUBS With a free book exchange, out their daily food specials. LAST CALL
and tasty Sunday night AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
roasts, the tiny Bread & 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
2 LAM SON Butter is a perfect place for EON HELI BAR 3823 3122
(MARTINI BAR) homesick expats and beer LOUNGE BAR lastcallsaigon.com
TOP-END INTERNATIONAL enthusiasts (excellent Hue- Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai If you’re in need of dense,
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Brewed Huda beer served Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 soulful atmosphere and
Tel: (08) 3824 1234 here exclusively in Ho Chi eon51.com maybe an artisanal cocktail
On The Town saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends
Minh City). Breathtaking views require a
vantage point and EON Heli
on your way back from wher-
ever, Last Call is your stop
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces BROMA, NOT A BAR
Bar is by far the highest spot
in Saigon for a spectacular
— and fast becoming that of
the similarly inclined. Great DELIVERY
with a wide-ranging drink COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP cityscape, appealing drinks happy hour deals for early
menu and hip dance tunes 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) and a vibrant ambience. evening starters.
to create one of the most 3823 6838 Night live music and DJs. BEN STYLE
tasteful if pricier bars in Broma’s medieval rooftop- Tel: 0906 912730
Saigon. cocktail lounge conglomera- LE PUB www.
tion is a magnet for the city’s GAME ON INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
SPORTS BAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
vietnammm.com/
weirdest and coolest events/
ACOUSTIC BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) Tel: (08) 3837 7679 restaurants-ben-style
random moments. A sophis-
LIVE MUSIC 6251 9898 Warm colors, artsy décor and
ticated cocktail menu and
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: gameonsaigon.com a friendly ambiance combine
quite possibly the best lamb
(08) 3930 2239 A fresh feel thanks to the to create a perfect setting for CHEZ GUIDO
burger in town. Check out large space and light-wood
Though only 1km from the their bun bo Hue-inspired enjoying tasty international Tel: (08) 3898 3747
city centre, Acoustic is well tables makes this Australi- and Vietnamese cuisine.
cocktail. an-influenced watering hole www.chezguido.com
off most foreigners’ radars. Gets busy at weekends with
Come see the Vietnamese a popular bar for televised a clientele made up of hip,
house band play nightly, as sports, pub food, darts, pool young Vietnamese and the
BUDDHA BAR and more. DOMINO’S PIZZA
well as performances from RESTOBAR occasional foreigner.
overseas bands and guest Tel: (08) 3939 3030
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
artists. 3345 6345
www.dominos.vn
HOA VIEN LONG PHI
Buddhabarsaigon.com CZECH BREWHOUSE
Just across the lane from FRENCH / RESTOBAR
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
APOCALYPSE NOW Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an EAT.VN
3825 8605
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 3837 2704 www.eat.vn
eccentric European tilt and hoavien.vn French-run but universally
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) some nice, authentic cuisine The original microbrewery,
3825 6124 draws an older crowd with appealing, Long Phi has been
this large, wooden-pan-
apocalypsesaigon.com darts, pool and weekly poker elled, brass-kegged Czech
serving the backpacker area
An institution and the kind of tourneys. with excellent cuisine and
Brewhouse is as popular as HUNGRYPANDA.
place you end up drunk after occasional live music since
it was 15 years ago when VN
midnight. Famed for its not- it was first opened. Does 1990. Excellent late-night
so-salubrious clientele, this CHAMPION SPORTS BAR a great food menu to ac- bistro cuisine. www.hungrypanda.vn
two-floor establishment with SPORTS BAR company the home-brewed
DJs and occasional live music 45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) beer.
is also famed for its hotdogs, MALT KFC
3920 4202
which are served up in the GAMES & CRAFT BEER BAR
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
A recent addition to the
garden terrace out back. ICE BLUE 46-48 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1
sports-and-watering-hole
Malt is a non-smoking bar www.kfcvietnam.
drinking scene, Champion EXPAT BAR com.vn
24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 in downtown Saigon offer-
is located in the Backpack-
BIA CRAFT One of this city’s longest run- ing shuffleboard, darts, craft
ers’ area and shows all the beers on tap, signature cock-
CRAFT BEER BAR ning watering holes — and
major televised sports. Also
90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) the original home of the tails and delicious tapas and LOTTERIA
3744 2588 has a pool table, darts, tasty pub grub. Its unpretentious
darts league — has recently Tel: (08) 3910 0000
biacraft.com Western and Vietnamese vibe and casual atmosphere
food, great cocktails and ice reopened in its new prem- www.lotteria.vn
As craft beer continues to ises. Naturally, darts are still will have you feeling at
take over watering holes cold beer. Western managed, home.
wonderful local staff. #BeA- key here, with each of the
around Ho Chi Minh City, so bottom three floors having
a bar dedicated to all things Champion. PIZZA HUT (PHD)
elements devoted to this
‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems MAY RESTAURANT Tel: (08) 3838 8388
most pub-friendly of sports.
like a pretty sensible idea, & BAR www.pizzahut.vn
right? Well, it is. Only small, CHILL SKYBAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
but with wooden tables per- TOP-END BAR & TERRACE 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
LA HABANA
fect for sharing, both on tap Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, 6291 3686
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR SCOOZI
and by the bottle, Bia Craft Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) mayrestaurant.com.vn Tel: (08) 3823 5795
sells up a delectable range of chillsaigon.com 3829 5180 An international comfort-
For the spectacular views www.scoozipizza.com
the good stuff. Looking for Ti- lahabana-saigon.com food menu mixes with
ger? Go take a hike. Also has alone, Chill Skybar remains Cuban-themed bar and res- excellent cocktails and an
a decent food menu. the place to go to mix top- taurant selling an exciting extensive winelist at this
end, outdoor terrace drinking range of Spanish and Cuban attractive, international bar TACO BICH
around an oval-shaped bar cuisine, as well as a few Ger- and restaurant. Dine at the www.tacobich.com
BLANCHY’S TASH with cityscapes of Saigon. man favourites such as curry bar or upstairs in the restau-
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB One of the top watering wurst and Wiener schnitzel. rant space.
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 holes in the city. Nightly live music and regu- VIETNAMMM
028293 lar salsa classes. www.vietnammm.com
blanchystash.com NUMBER FIVE
A multi-storey bar with décor D2 EXPAT BAR
and atmosphere more akin SPORTS BAR LA FENETRE SOLEIL 44 Pasteur, Q1
to such an establishment in 55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR The original expat bar, this
New York or London. Has a 3744 5453 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) institution of a place gets
reputation for bringing in What does the Thao Dien 3824 5994 packed every night thanks to
big-name DJs. And when we area of Saigon seriously lack? A seductive watering whole its drinking hall atmosphere,
say big, we mean big. Check A sports bar. And this is the in a great corner location attractive bar staff and Ger-
their website for details. Al Fresco Group’s answer to a thanks to its old Saigon man food menu. Has regular
distinct shortage hole in the glamour, Japanese-Vietnam- live music.
market. Sleek lines, modern ese fusion cuisine, imported
BREAD & BUTTER décor, elegant and spacious, beer, classic cocktails, and
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD dartboards and of course, entertaining music events OMG!
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) lots of large screens to watch / DJ sets. FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
3836 8452 the televised sports. Check Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen

An Ninh, Q1 Lai, Q1 STORM P with BBQs available for parties and events.
A contemporary and attractive saigonsoul.com DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
rooftop restaurant with a lounge The ultimate in poolside entertain- 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
bar just 50m from Ben Thanh ment, Saigon Soul is defined by 4738 VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE
Market. Features a glass shell its great party atmosphere. Boom- Stormp.vn INTERNATIONAL
modeled in the image of the Eif- ing house music, cold drinks and Named after the Danish artist Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
fel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere beautiful people. What better way Storm P, this long-running bar is Tel: (08) 3822 9698
and views over central Saigon. to spend a Saturday? Runs every the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian facebook.com/vespersaigon
Saturday from late November until community thanks to its laid-back A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail
mid May. atmosphere and excellent food bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and
O’BRIEN’S menu. A good place to watch the one of the best spirit selections in town.
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL live sports. Serves creative, Japanese and German-in-
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) SAIGON OUTCAST fluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.
3829 3198 EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR
irish-barsaigon.com 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: THE CUBE BAR
This Irish-themed sports bar with 0122 4283198 HIP RESTOBAR VINYL BAR
classic pub décor is widely ap- Saigonoutcast.com 31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
preciated for its excellent interna- Up-cycling and innovative design 369798 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
tional fare, large whiskey selection form the foundation for this bar / facebook.com/thecubesaigon vinylbarsaigon.com
and upstairs pool table. Great piz- arts venue / mini-skate park and A sleek, industrial looking restobar A small but popular bar with all the shenani-
zas. And for a real treat, check out graffiti space. Come for barbeque with edgy décor and just a hint gans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop
their zesty rolls. and reasonably priced drinks, stick of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts
around for entertaining events and Iberian-influenced cocktails and area out back and is a popular space for
markets. an emphasis on all things Latin. watching the live English Premier League.
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 SAIGON RANGER THE OBSERVATORY WINE BAR 38
Located on the 20th floor with ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT BAR, ART & DJ SPACE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
stunning views of the city, houses 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
an upscale, contemporary interior 7300 0559 Elisa Boat) With a huge selection of self-imported wines
and an outdoor terrace. A good facebook.com/saigonranger Known for its late night parties from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary
venue to chill out in a relaxed and Aspiring to be a focal point for and focus on international art- venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge
casual, yet hip ambience. artistic activities, the space at ists, Observatory is now at a bigger on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu
Saigon Ranger has been estab- space in District 4. Complete with paired to all the wines, with a huge selection
lished to create encounter and a new balcony overlooking the of the good stuff sold by the glass.
PEACHES dialogue between different forms Saigon River and an even larger
CURRY PUB of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark sound system, The Observatory is
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, wooden furniture, quirky wall de- WINE EMBASSY
a key node in the Asian under-
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 signs and a stage for live music CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
ground music circuit.
Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this and other types of performance. 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
pleasant Saigon South water- wineembassy.com.vn
ing hole mixes the beer with all A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
THE ORIENT
things curry — anything from Goan SAIGON SAIGON BAR bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at rea-
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
fish curries to beef rendangs and LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR sonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
more. A popular local haunt. 24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 19- facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
23 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) An attractive, spacious, brick-wall
3823 4999 interior, a long bar, high table seat-
PHATTY’S caravellehotel.com
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
ing, big screens, a pool table and
This iconic bar is a great place to live music. A great venue for a few
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) watch the sun go down over the
3821 0796 beers and more.
city and relax for a few drinks with
phattysbar.com friends. Has live entertainment six
From its roots as the famed Café
nights a week courtesy of resident
Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-
Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm
to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports
Wednesday to Monday.
viewing emporium, showing eve-
rything from international cricket
to Aussie rules and serving an ar-
SHRINE BAR
ray of pub grub favourites.
LOUNGE BAR
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1 THE SOCIETY
PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL shrinebarsaigon.com GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR
SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
Shrine creates a drinking and din- 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999
C0.01 Riverside Residence C, ing experience in a temple-like facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM
Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Designed as a Laneway-style
6274 1520 Srei, a temple from the ancient restobar, the kind of place found
facebook.com/PitchersPMH Angkor kingdom, the walls are in Hong Kong, London, New York
Located in the heart of Phu My covered in statues depicting or Central Melbourne, thanks to
Hung, this spacious restobar with ancient Khmer gods and kings. its indoor and outdoor ambience,
an affection for showing televised With ambient lighting and town The Society brings dining and
sports has a family friendly edge tempo music, here it’s all about drinking to a new level. Phenom-
thanks to its kids play area. Does a good cocktails and an even better enal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare
great grill menu and of course, lots atmosphere. and seafood make this a place to
of very cold beer for those devel- go for drinks, a full-blown meal or
oping a thirst in the Saigon heat. a mixture of both.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR
RUBY SOHO 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08)
CARTOON BAR 3914 0007 THE TAVERN
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) seventeensaloon.com.vn EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
5410 3900 Wild West-themed bar doubles R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan,
A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks as a music venue, where three Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900
to its cartoon décor and light but talented Filipino bands (B&U, The first bar established in Saigon
fun ambience. Has a reasonable Wild West and Most Wanted) South, great food, great music and
food menu to complement the play covers of rock icons like Bon loads of laughs. Has regular live
drinks. Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top music nights, theme nights and
SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY shelf spirits and friendly, hostess a variety of live sports events to
POOL & DAY CLUB style table service are the name please everybody. Big screens and
New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le game here. outdoor seating add to the mix,

KNOW YOUR CITY NEW USES FOR OLD SPACES BY ED HAYSOM
C
ities, like organisms, are Once undervalued, the district is now a others; Racha Room and Stoker in Mac Thi
constantly in the process highly valued and expensive area attracting Buoi; AsiaHouse in Nguyen Hue, Khanh
of change; growing, dying, corporate headquarters in the old buildings. Casa and Moo Beefsteak in Dong Khoi;
regenerating and degenerating. The high line is now an urban park. Saigon Artisan and Nho Saigon Xua in
While city planners may like to think that Other inner city areas have gone through Le Loi; The Warehouse in Le Thanh Ton;
they are the best people to make the decisions similar revivals. Perhaps best known is the coffee shops in the 26 Ly Tu Trong
as to how the city grows, cities often grow Shoreditch in London. The transformation apartment building, places like Snuffbox on
despite, rather than because of, their best from urban wasteland to fashionable mecca is Ton That Dam and the apartment blocks on
efforts. Reyner Banham, an English professor so vast that it’s now spread to neighbouring Nguyen Hue. There are more emerging that
of architecture, once said that planning is areas like Whitechapel, Dalston and Hackney. demonstrate a way forward for the use of
a discipline only understood in academic In all these scenarios, restaurateurs and these older and quite exquisite buildings.
and professional circles; that it is essentially café owners seek out interesting but cheap Ho Chi Minh City sees itself as an
a liberal approach to urban problems, and spaces in old buildings because they can emerging new world city, but in the city’s
it tends to fail when confronted with a imbue them with character. Restaurants are scramble to compete regionally it risks
libertarian culture. We have that libertarian often the harbinger of urban renewal by damaging the very elements that make
culture here in Ho Chi Minh City. bringing people to an area, and those people it so attractive. It is an Asian city with a
The fact that planners have been unable then look for other opportunities. Restaurants defined and vibrant CBD and, with its own
to fully dictate form and use in Ho Chi Minh often lead the way by showing us how to particularly exotic nature, it has an appeal
City has led to a vibrant and interesting city develop, enhance and preserve existing that eludes Singapore.
centre. The sheer exuberance of Vietnamese building stocks as it is cheaper to recycle While it lacks the grandeur of Hong Kong’s
culture is constantly on display in the city, rather than start again. harbour setting, it is far more affordable and
especially in the oldest part of District 1. interesting at ground level. Yet the very fabric
When you look at the city from this The unique ownership structure of many of that character is under threat in District 1
context of rebirth and renewal you can see buildings in Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1 with demolition orders looming on many of
emerging trends. has inhibited their refurbishment; a house the great French-era buildings.
that in the past was given over to communal Ho Chi Minh City is unique thanks to
Renaissance habitation is often owned by four or five its tropical French heritage — there is no
The Meatpacking District in New York different people. However, those that have escaping its colonial past. It is therefore
City gives a good example. The name is attracted restaurants have had their value fitting that the city famous for its cuisine and
self-explanatory — an industrial area in the enhanced, with some great examples over coffee culture is being shown how to protect
middle of New York with an elevated railway the last few years of new uses for old spaces and enhance its character by businesses
line (the high line) that once ran through it. setting a benchmark. Nga Hang Ngon, supporting that culture.
Run down for years, the area started being Temple Club and L’Usine to name three. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode
reborn in the last years of the 20th century / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi
after restaurants and high-end boutiques Exquisite Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@
began opening in the vacant buildings. They have been joined recently by some modehaysomarchitects.com

HCMC
to complement the old and cafethoaivien.com the ample soft, sofa seat- art gallery out back. Second dow and get snuggly with
new world wines. Veer off the street and find ing renders a great spot to location on Le Loi. the comfy upholstery in
yourself plunging straight relax. The mouth-watering this second-floor cafe. With
into lush greenery. Cafe western menu is well-priced a cup of well-brewed cof-
XU Thoai Vien serves up a and maintains a creative flair. M2C CAFE fee, accompanied by some
CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR spacious and airy setting 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) background jazz, it is an
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: to enjoy a quiet sip. From 3822 2495 afternoon well-spent.
(08) 3824 8468 small eats to big bites and I.D. CAFÉ facebook.com/m2ccafe
On The Town xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket down-
town bar is known for its
everything to drink, it’s a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
THE OTHER
PERSON CAFE
cocktails and wine list. It Idcafe.net the rich menu of Vietnam- 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
serves a range of interna- Centrally located near Ben ese food and drinks, shows Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
tional and Vietnamese dish- COFFEE BEAN & Thanh Market, i.d offers cas- immense local culture, done facebook.com/TheOtherPer-
es to be enjoyed in its richly TEA LEAF ual café dining with a wide with a modern flare. Be seen sonCafe
decorated interior. Regular INTERNATIONAL variety of food and bever- here at one of the latest pop- Fancy being served up by
DJ nights. 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, ages. Where modern design ular joint in town. maids in costume? Call for
Q1; Metropolitan Building, and a warm ambience meet a booking and enjoyed cus-
CAFES & ICE-CREAM 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 for coffee. tomized service to your liking
coffeebean.com.vn MOCKINGBIRD CAFE while spending an afternoon
Large portioned coffee lures 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, in this candy-land inspired
(A) CAFE customers into the flagship Q1, Tel: 0935 293400 cafe.
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da store of this international facebook.com/mockingbird-
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 café chain. The contempo- coffee
Settle into the Javanese- rary, yet generic atmosphere Sitting atop of a number of THE PRINT ROOM
style interior and enjoy pos- is bolstered by comfortable cafe establishments in an old CONTEMPORARY CAFE
sibly one of the best brews seating and a menu to sat- apartment complex, Mock- 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
in Saigon. Using own grown isfy any sweet tooth. ingbird is just the place for 3823 4990
and specially sourced Dalat a romantic time over mojitos, Second-storey coffeehouse
beans, speciality coffee such KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS or good ol’ caffeine-infused offers a quiet atmosphere to
as cold drip, siphon, and DECIBEL CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING relaxation. chill out or read from their
Chemex are must haves for INTERNATIONAL 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) book-nook collection. Com-
the avid coffee drinker. 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 6685 4160 fortable couch seating, open
(08) 6271 0115 klasik.coffee PLANTRIP CHA table space and a cappuc-
Decibel.vn Nitro cold brew coffee, sin- TEA ROOM cino costs VND40,000.
AGNES CAFE Trendy without pretense, gle origin coffee and healthy 8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
DALAT COFFEE HOUSE this two-floor, relaxed café food. Klasik Coffee Roasters Tel: 0945 830905
11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) offers beautiful decor and is a small coffee shop with Tea, tea and more tea, all in THINGS CAFE
6281 9772 unique original events like a passion for seeking high a contemporary, quirky en- 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
A cozy and comfortable cafe live music, film screenings, quality coffee beans from vironment. At Plantrip Cha Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
in Thao Dien serving excel- and art exhibits. Great prices around the world to roast customers go on a sensory facebook.com/thingscafe
lent fresh coffee from Dalat, and food with daily specials. in Saigon. Holding the belief journey to experience the Feel the calm and serenity
smoothies, juices, home- that each cup tells its own tastes and smells of teas of this rustic little quiet cor-
made desserts. Offers up story, drinking coffee at from across Asia, Europe, ner tucked away in an Old
tasty breakfasts, lunch and GUANABANA SMOOTHIES Klasik is all about pleasure America and the Middle East. Apartment. The quaint and
dinner all the way through CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR and experience: the aroma, relaxing atmosphere sets for
until 9pm. 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 the taste, the warmth and the some alone time, or quality
824830 senses inspired by each and THE LOOP conversations held over a
guanabanasmoothies.com every cup. Open daily from HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS drink or two.
BANKSY CAFE An American-style juice 7am to 10pm. 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, bar and café dedicated 3602 6385 EAT
Tel: 01699 990003 to healthy, nutricious Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com smoothies that avoid the lo- décor helps create the café-
A small but swanky cafe, cal obsession with sugar and L’USINE style atmosphere at this Eu- 3T QUAN NUONG
Banksy promises a young condensed milk. A pleasant, CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH ropean-influenced café and VIETNAMESE BBQ
and vibrant hideout in an contemporary environment First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, restaurant. Sells excellent Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
old 1960s-era apartment adds to the theme. Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le coffee and if you like bagels, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
building. Remember to head Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 here you’ll be in heaven. The original, on-the-table
up the steep stairs within to lusinespace.com barbecue restaurant still
dig into their secret stash of HIDEAWAY French-style wooden decor goes strong thanks to its
clothes and accessories. INTERNATIONAL compliments the spacious, THE MORNING CAFE rooftop atmosphere, excel-
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, whitewashed contemporary 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: lent service and even better
Tel: (08) 3822 4222 interior of L’Usine. A simple, 0938 383330 fish, seafood and meats. An
CAFE THOAI VIEN Hideawaycafe-saigon.com creative menu combines themorningcafe.com.vn institution.
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Hidden in a colonial building with reasonably priced cof- Have a book to read? Pick
Tel: 0918 115657 with an outdoor courtyard, fee, and a fashion store and a bright spot by the win-

TOP EATS
LAVASTONE BBQ & COCKTAIL HOUSE
PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN
S
ituated in a prime location in away on a coconut coal BBQ pot and as I back but despite its size, the restaurant
District 1, Lavastone BBQ & took my first bite, my spirits soared. The boast an extensive drinks menu with a
Cocktail House blends into the meat was so tender it melted in my mouth range of choices from classic blends and
bustle of the area with its full- — the sweetness of the beef paired with the signature cocktails to simple shots and
length glass front framed by black-painted saltiness from dipping chunks into the plate Japanese wine. The establishment also has a
steel. The space inside has an American of Himalaya salt was divine. I wanted to house cocktail list updated every month as
industrial ambience combined with classic order a second portion. well as a drink of the month. Managed by
European-style twists, making the place Instead I moved onto the boneless beef young bartenders, they are given free reign
both attractive yet unusual. The Japanese short ribs, which arrived with a dipping by the restaurant to create new drinks in an
elements — Japanese rice wine kept cool sauce called tare. A sweetened, thickened, attempt to keep the customers happy.
in a container at the front door and the flavoured soy sauce used in Japanese Tung, the main bartender, brought me
upstairs furnished with Japanese-style cuisine for grilled beef, depending on taste what he called a Vieux Carré as I told him
chairs and tables, adds to the effect. (and on the chef), there are many different I wanted a drink that was strong but not
versions. The version Lavastone came up sweet. The concoction was wicked; the
A House of Beef with was mixed with garlic and chopped brownish liquid mixed sweetness with an
Seated at the table next to the cashier, spring onion to bring out the flavour of the enticing aroma, leaving a slight bitterness at
I leisurely turned the pages of the eye- dish. It worked a treat. the back of my throat.
catching menu. Although it is a combination If you are not a big fan of beef, you At the end my meal, he made a dessert
of Japanese specialties, barbecue and pan- can either try barbecued pork breast drink called Escargot that was served up
Asian cuisine, it is obvious that Lavastone (VND79,000) or Japanese sashimi in a conch. Made from passion fruit, butter
pays most of their attention to beef. All the (VND357,000, a combo for two). Other syrup, black rum and aromatic Japanese
beef is imported from Japan and America, interesting options include Cajun shrimps rice wine, it provided the perfect ending to
and is marinated with their in-house sauces (VND219,000), grilled sanma (VND89,000) an indulgent meal. — Vu Ha Kim Vy
or cooked up simply with salt. or the spicy seafood hotpot (VND289,000). Lavastone BBQ & Cocktail House is at 96B
I ordered a wagyu sirloin (VND569,000) Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, HCMC. Visit them
and the boneless beef short ribs Drinkable Creativeness on facebook.com/lavastonebbq for their updated
(VND179,000). The wagyu arrived sizzling Lavastone has a small bar counter at the menu and promotions

HCMC
27 GRILL mezzes, plus coffees and CAFÉ IF ery make for a quality bite.
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT juices — served at a popu- VIETNAMESE FRENCH Decent-sized steaks start at
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, lar park-side Le Duan loca- 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) VND390,000.
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 tion with classic cream and 3846 9853
chillsaigon.com green-tiled décor. MSG-free traditional Vi-
Besides the spectacular etnamese cuisine with a ELBOW ROOM
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill BAHDJA French twist, cooked fresh to AMERICAN
is a real draw, with steaks ASHOKA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 order. Dishes include noodle 52 Pasteur, Q1
On The Town and other international grill- NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN Tel: 0122 763 1261 soup, steamed ravioli and Tel: (08) 3821 4327
style fare in a refined yet con- 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: bahdjarestaurant@gmail. beef stew, stir fries, hot pots elbowroom.com.vn
temporary atmosphere. Sub- (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu com and curries. The comfort food on of-
tle lighting and an extensive Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 Located just above the Thai fer at this striking US-style
wine list make up the mix. ashokaindianrestaurant. restaurant Spice, Bahdja is diner ranges from meatball
com Saigon’s first ever Algerian CHI’S CAFÉ baguettes to chilli burgers,
Long-running, award-winning restaurant, serving authen- INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE pizzas, blackened chicken
AL FRESCO’S Indian restaurant famed for tic, multi-ethnic Berber 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) salads and a selection of
INTERNATIONAL its excellent kebabs, creamy North African and Mediter- 3837 2502 more expensive international
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) curries and Chinese-Indian ranean cuisine cooked and Chiscafe.com mains.
38238424 fare. served in a traditional Alge- This affable café is a rarity
alfrescosgroup.com rian style. Best experienced in the backpacker area for
The downtown outlet of one in a group, this pleasant its genuinely good musical EL GAUCHO
of Vietnam’s most successful BABA’S KITCHEN restaurant’s soothing ambi- playlist. Excellent, build- ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN ence is matched by the own- your-own breakfasts, baked 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
offers international, Aus- 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) ers’ genuine hospitality and potatoes, toasties, Vietnam- 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The
tralian-influenced comfort 3838 6661 complimented by an array of ese fare and more. Has a Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7,
fare in a pleasant environ- babaskitchen.in tasty tajines and couscous- popular motorbike rental Tel: (08) 5413 6909
ment with efficient, friendly This pleasant, airy Indian based dishes. Has a lovely service. elgaucho.com.vn
service to match. Also has does the full range of fare semi-outdoor terrace area. A themed eatery mixing
an excellent garden-style from all ends of the subcon- an Argentinian steakhouse
branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. tinent, from dosas and va- CIAO BELLA theme with pork, chicken,
das through to chicken tikka NEW YORK-ITALIAN lamb, homemade spicy sau-
masala, kormas, kebabs and BOAT HOUSE 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) sage, skewers, burger dish-
fiery vindaloos. Has a deliv- AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 3822 3329 es and everything that can
ery outlet in District 2. 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior saigonrestaurantgroup.com come off a grill. Slick service,
Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, New York-style Italian restau- a good wine menu, and cara-
AU LAC DO BRAZIL Tel: (08) 3744 6790 rant offering a range of tasty mel vodka teasers at the end
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO BLACK CAT A revamp has seen this riv- and affordable antipasti, pas- of the meal. Probably serves
238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 AMERICAN erside restaurant get a new tas, and pizzas. Friendly staff up the best steak in town.
7157 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) management and a new and rustic bare brick walls
aulacdobrazil.com 3829 2055 menu — think American-style adorned with Hollywood film
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to blackcatsaigon.com burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex legends make for a relaxed EON51 FINE DINING
the city's best Churrasco Creatively named burgers, together with soup and salad and attractive setting. TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
menu with a wide variety of tasty Vietnamese-styled and you’ll get the idea. Ex- Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai
meats from Calabrian sau- sandwiches, spiced up cellent nachos and frozen Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
sage and picanha through cocktails, mains and more, margaritas. CORIANDER eon51.com
to D-rump steak and smoked all served up with a Califor- THAI / VIETNAMESE Situated on level 51 of the
hams. Pioneering the eat-as- nian edge at this small but 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) most iconic building in
much-as-you-can theme in popular two-storey eatery BOOMARANG BISTRO 3837 1311 town, Eon51 Fine Dining
Vietnam, passadors bring close to the river. SAIGON A small, homely Vietnamese- offers a unique fine dining
the meat skewers to your INTERNATIONAL / GRILL owned Thai restaurant that experience accompanied by
table, and you, the customer CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, over the past decade has unparalleled 3600 pictur-
then choose your accompa- BLANCHY STREET Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) quite rightly gained a strong esque views of Saigon. The
niments from the salad bar. JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN 5413 6592 local and expat following. Try sky-high restaurant proffers
Best washed down with red The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba boomarang.com.vn their pad thai — to die for. the taste of Europe in Asia,
wine or a caipirinha or five. Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 Australian themed but Sin- orchestrated from the finest
The work of former Nobu gaporean-owned eatery and local foods and top-quality
chef Martin Brito, the Japa- bar on The Crescent with CORSO imported ingredients.
nese-South American fusion great terraced seating spe- STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
AU PARC cuisine at Blanchy Street cializing in huge-portioned 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
EUROPEAN / CAFÉ is among the tastiest and international fare, all set in (08) 3829 5368 GANESH
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) most unusual in the city. All a contemporary, spacious norfolkhotel.com.vn NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
3829 2772 complemented by fresh, con- environment. Although a hotel restaurant, 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
auparcsaigon.com temporary decor and a leafy the enticing range of US and 3823 4786
Consistently tasty European terrace out front. Australian steaks plus great ganesh.restaurant.vn@hot-
café fare — think deli-style grill and comfort food menu mail.com
sandwiches, salads and in this contemporary eat- The ubiquitous mint sauce

HCMC
is thick and creamy and the (08) 3822 0033 LE JARDIN a darkwood, aircon interior. NINETEEN
curries are both authentic marriott.com CLASSIC FRENCH Subtle lighting and an atten- INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
and smoky. Ganesh is rated Offers authentic, gourmet 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) tion to details is matched by Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel,
by many as the best Indian Cantonese cuisine in an el- 3825 8465 some of the best contempo- 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
in town. Very friendly service. egant, classic setting, with Unpretentious but tasty rary cuisine in the city, all (08) 3823 4999
striking décor and the bo- French fare in a relaxed gar- with a European influence. caravellehotel.com
nus of views over the Sai- den setting within the French Also has an extensive wine One of the top three buf-
HOA TUC gon River. Dishes range from cultural centre. The robust, list, a good selection of im- fet restaurants in town.
On The Town CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676
VND80,000 to VND900,000. bistro-style cuisine is very
well-priced, and excellent,
cheap house wine is served
ported beers and a happy
hour.
Although the selection is
small, the meats, fishes and
seafoods are all fresh, and
Highly rated restaurant with KOH THAI by the carafe. everything you eat here is
stunning outdoor terrace. CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION MARKET 39 quality.
Specialities include pink Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
pomelo squid and crab sal- Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 LION CITY Ground Floor, InterContinen-
ad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, Modern Thai fusion restau- SINGAPOREAN tal Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai OSAKA RAMEN
fishcake wraps and barbecue rant serving Thai classics 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: JAPANESE NOODLES
chicken in ginger, onions and alongside tom yam cappuc- 3823 8371 (08) 3520 9999 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04,
a lime leaf marinade. cinos and more. Koh Thai’s lioncityrestaurant.com intercontinental.com/saigon Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu
creative cocktails merge Thai Friendly, authentic five- My Hung, Q7
flavours with local seasonal storey Singaporean eatery, If you fancy dosing out on ra-
HOANG YEN fruits and herbs. plating up the likes of nasi MAY RESTAURANT men and soba noodles, then
PAN-VIETNAMESE lemak, mee rebus, and INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD Osaka Ramen is noodle soup
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) awesome chicken curry, as 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: heaven. A typically Japanese
3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 KOTO TRAINING well as specialities like frog (08) 6291 3686 aircon environment mixes
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) RESTAURANT porridge, chilli crab and fish may.restaurant19@gmail. bar-style seating with booths
2210 2304 CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE head curry. com and private dining. Open late.
If you’re looking for mid- 3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Casual yet stylish, May places
range, aircon Vietnamese Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: international-style wining
restaurants that just seem (08) 3822 9357 LOVEAT and dining in the heart of PACHARAN
to do every dish perfectly, The restaurant associated MEDITERRANEAN historic Saigon. Subtle light- SPANISH / EUROPEAN
then Hoang Yen really is the with the KOTO vocational 29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) ing, comfortable seating, an 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
place to go. The atmosphere training school. All the 6260 2727 extensive wine and cocktail 3825 6924
may be a bit sterile, but its staff — from bar tenders loveat.vn list, and beautifully crafted Legs of Iberian ham hang in
amply made up for by the ef- and waiting staff through Located bang opposite the comfort food from Europe, the downstairs bar at this
ficient service and excellent to the chefs — come from Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves the Antipodes and Asia all multi-story bodega serving
disadvantaged backgrounds up three floors’ worth of make up the mix at this mul- Spanish-styled tapas. At-
cuisine. Now with a number
and are being trained on the Mediterranean cuisine mixed ti-floored restaurant and bar. tractively decorated in warm
of restaurants around town.
jon in hospitality. Serves up in with continental favourites Check out their set lunches reds, yellows and oranges,
tasty Vietnamese cuisine, like moules frites. A great and happy hour. Pacharan’s food menu is
to boot! place for dinner, cocktails traditionally Spanish.
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ
and wines in a contemporary
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
Saigon atmosphere.
Ground Floor, Bitexco Finan- L’OLIVIER MEKONG MERCHANT PENDOLASCO
cial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / PAN-ITALIAN
(08) 3915 6066 Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le LU BU SEAFOOD 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh,
Mixing hearty pub grub such sofitel.com (08) 3744 6478
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
as burgers, salads and prime Exuding a southern Gallic 6281 8371 info@mekongmerchant.com pendolasco.vn
rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere with its tiled luburestaurant.com The rustic looking, banana- Opening out into a large,
atmosphere, this Australian veranda, pastel-coloured Drawing inspiration from the leaf roofed Mekong Merchant leafy terracotta-tiled garden
chain also offers regular walls and ficus trees, this great cuisines of Europe, The has long been the place in area, this trattoria-style Ital-
promotions and a 4pm to traditional French restaurant Mediterranean and The Ori- An Phu. Set around a cobble- ian restaurant serves up
7pm happy hour. Excellent has quarterly Michelin star ent, this contemporary, Aus- stoned courtyard the cuisine quality homemade pasta,
outdoor terrace. promotions and an award tralian-run restaurant bathed includes gourmet seafood risotto, gnocchi, excellent
winning pastry team. in white focuses on whole- and pastas. Bakery-style pizza and grilled dishes. Has
some, fresh ingredients, with Bistro out front. a second branch in District 2.
INAHO breads, cheeses, pickles,
SUSHI / SASHIMI LA CUISINE pastas and preserves made
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN on site daily from scratch. A MONSOON PITCHERS SPORTS
(08) 3829 0326 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) well-conceived wine list sup- PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN AND GRILL
A sushi bar needs a good 2229 8882 plements the excellent fare. 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT
chef, and the chef-owner of lacuisine.com.vn Has petanque on the terrace. 6290 8899 C0.01 Riverside Residence C,
Inaho is one of the best. Sit This intimate, open-kitch- Traditional pan-Southeast Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel:
downstairs at the low-key ened restaurant bathed in Asian favourites served in (08) 6274 1520
bar or upstairs in the private white specialises in a mix LUONG SON a visually arresting setting facebook.com/PitchersPMH
VIP rooms. Either way, this of contemporary Mediter- PAN-VIETNAMESE within a French colonial-era Located in the heart of Phu
is one of the best sushi and ranean and French cuisine. 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) villa, just minutes from the My Hung, this spacious
sashimi joints in town. Has a small but well thought 3825 1330 backpacker area. Reasonably restobar with an affection
out menu, backed up with A typical Vietnamese-style priced, with healthy juices for showing televised sports
an extensive wine list. quan nhau, this fan-cooled and smoothies. has a family friendly edge
JASPA’S WINE & GRILL downtown eating and drink- thanks to its kids play area.
INTERNATIONAL FUSION ing haunt is famed for two Does a great grill menu and
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba LE CORTO things: it’s on the table, NAM GIAO of course, lots of very cold
Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 CONTEMPORARY FRENCH grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo HUE CUISINE beer for those developing a
Alfrescosgroup.com 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) (marinated beef) and oddi- 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: thirst in the Saigon heat.
Although a chain restaurant, 3822 0671 ties such as sautéed scor- (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong
the international offerings facebook.com/LeCorto pion. A great place to take Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08)
here are consistently good Open for lunch and set din- out-of-town guests. 3925 9996 PIZZA 4P’S
and creative. Excellent ser- ner, this beautifully designed namgiao.com EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
vice, an attractive outdoor restaurant and bar seamless- If you want to take friends, 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
terrace area, and a good ly mixes contemporary and MAD HOUSE relatives or people out of (08) 3822 9838
kids menu. Check out their with classic. With a menu CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, town to eat Hue-style street pizza4ps.com
pepper steaks. cooked up by reputed chef RESTAURANT food in a hygienic yet down- This quirky but highly rated
Sakal Phoeung, and with a 6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: to-earth environment, Nam Italian / Japanese fusion piz-
contemporary twist to tradi- (08) 3519 4009 Giao is the place. Not only za parlour serves wacky yet
KABIN tional French fare, this is a facebook.com/madsaigon is it well-priced, but the bun delicious pies such as tuna
CANTONESE place to enjoy the luxuries Set over a pool in a leafy, bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com curry pizza and calamari sea-
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, of fine cuisine and even finer tropical garden, the beautiful hen, banh bot loc and other weed pizza, as well as more
8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: wine. rustic décor is matched by such dishes are excellent. traditional varieties.

POP FRIES for the burgers, meats off Tel: (08) 3823 9513 SHRI
CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES the barbecue and Platinum sanfulou.com CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: pale ale served on tap. Open until 3am, this popu- 23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich lar, contemporary Cantonese 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 dining hall mixes contempo- Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
754851 rary with traditional, in a A breezy terrace, indoor bar
A street food eatery concept space that takes Chinese and separate dining room
that originates from Los dining in Saigon to a new with sweeping views over
Angeles and New York, and level. And if you like your central Saigon make up
born from a passion for shar- RACHA ROOM RELISH & SONS dim sum, look no further. this enormous, comfortable
ing, here it’s all about the CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR GOURMET BURGER BAR space. A well-thought out
loaded fries. The potatoes 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187 and romantic venue, with
are twice-cooked and come 6253 7711 relishandsons.com SEOUL HOUSE excellent food.
piled high with a range of in- theracharoom.com Relish & Sons burgers are KOREAN
ventive toppings. Funky dé- The Racha Room delivers lovingly made with a healthy 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
cor and long benches make Thai accented Pan-Asian food philosophy in mind and 3829 4297
up the mix. cuisine with a focus on high fresh high quality ingredi- seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
quality ingredients. Racha ents. The beef patties are The longest running Korean
features a large selection of 100% Australian grass-fed; restaurant in town, with all
PROPAGANDA spirits at a seated bar and the buns are made with a the Koreans moving out to the
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO high table to ensure drinking reduced sugar and salt con- hinterland, the clientele here
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 along with eating remains tent. Burger relishes such are mainly Vietnamese. For- STOKER
Part of the group that in- central to the experience. as chutneys are all made in- tunately the food preparation CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE
cludes Au Parc and Refinery, The current and future of house from scratch. remains traditional. An excel- 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08)
Propaganda serves up classic Asian-inspired drinking and lent place for group dining. 3826 8691
Vietnamese cuisine in an at- dining is right here at the stokerwoodfiredgrill.com
mosphere of barebrick walls Racha Room. One of the world’s oldest
interposed with Propaganda SAFFRON SHANG PALACE culinary techniques — grill-
Art murals and prints. PAN-MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT ing over a wood fire. Stoker
REFINERY 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE kitchen uses different woods
QUAN BUI FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL 3824 8358 Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly to infuse foods with different
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Sporting food from around Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 smoky flavours. These tech-
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 the Mediterranean rim, this 2221 niques revolutionize live fire
Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo therefinerysaigon.com compact and cozy eatery shangpalace.com.vn cooking by providing precise
Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 A slightly retro feel pervades with pots hung from the ceil- Featuring over 200 dishes heat control through the
1515 this popular French-style bis- ing is a popular choice with and 50 kinds of dim sum use of a grilling surface that
Make sure to try the sautéed tro and wine bar which once expats and tourists alike. prepared by chefs from Hong can be adjusted to different
shrimps with cashew nuts housed the city’s opium re- Reservations advised. Kong, Shang Palace has nine cooking heights above the
and crispy fried tofu with finery. The cuisine runs from private dining rooms and hot coals.
lime wedge, at this popular, creative salads through to a main dining area seating
high-quality, chicly designed Mediterranean influenced SAIGON CAFÉ over 300. Good for events.
eatery where all food is mains. INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
served in traditional crockery. Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Ho- SORAE
One of the best Vietnamese tel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, SKEWERS SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
restaurants in town. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai,
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN sheratonsaigon.com 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 If you like your buffet selec- (08) 3822 4798 soraesushi.com
QUAN UT UT Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) tions to be big, then here it is skewers-restaurant.com Set over two floors, this
US-STYLE BARBECUE 3822 0033 gargantuan, with every type Simple, unpretentious Greek- astonishing, no-expense-
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) Offers versatile all–day dining of option under the sun. A influenced, international cui- spared Japanese restaurant
3914 4500 of international quality, with great place to catch up on sine ranging from the zucchini and lounge brings to Saigon
facebook.com/quanutut the bonus of being able to your seafood addiction or to carpaccio through to the sa- the type of environment and
It’s a no-brainer, right? Amer- watch the action on the river pig out over a Sunday brunch. ganiki, a range of dips, mou- ambience you’d expect of
ican-style barbecue in a con- sidewalk. Features western, saka, osso buco and lamb New York, Singapore, Hong
temporary Vietnamese, quan Asian and Vietnamese buf- chop skewers. Also has an Kong and Dubai. With the
nhau-style setting. Of course fets. SAN FU LOU excellent upstairs cigar room. décor comes a modern take
it is, which is why Quan Ut CANTONESE KITCHEN on Japanese fare. A place to
Ut is constantly packed with Ground Floor, AB Building, see and be seen.
grill-obsessed diners going 76A Le Lai, Q1

A WORLD PERIOD PANTIES
OF GOOD BY DANA MCNAIRN
O
ne in three women and girls on near food for fear of contamination. much of an issue now in Vietnam and
this planet do not have access to But one of the biggest issues is the lack of Article 115 in the Vietnamese Labour
a toilet when they menstruate, sanitation. Those girls and women without Code recognises a woman’s right to a
and 70 percent of women feel a toilet are forced to find somewhere, daily 30-minute break without salary
stigmatised or ashamed about their typically after dark, which puts them at penalty when she is menstruating. Yet the
period. risk to harassment or attack. I have written menstrual myths persist. A health survey
Three cheers then for international before about the ramifications of pubescent here found that female factory workers
Menstrual Hygiene Day (MHD) on May girls dropping out of school for want of believe your hair will fall out and you’ll
28. Three years ago a global coalition came some privacy and clean water at school. get dark circles under your eyes if you
together to help bust some myths around take a bath during your period. (Some
what — on any given day — more than 800 of my sophisticated urban girlfriends
million girls and women between the ages believe the same thing.) Silence feeds
of 15 and 49 are doing. However, despite superstition and ignorance. Girls continue
these numbers, talking about it remains to think they cannot become pregnant
taboo. This silence has created some pretty while menstruating, don’t seek help for
fantastic at best, misogynistic at worse, endometriosis, won’t go swimming or play
ideas around menstruation dating back sports, or that tampons can ‘disappear’ in
centuries. Hygiene your vagina.
Pliny the Elder wrote in his Natural A pair of sisters wants to change some of Taxes on necessities like tampons and
History (circa A.D. 77) about what happens this. Three cheers for period panties! Twin pads, enforcing taboos, embarrassment
when a woman has her period: “Her sisters Miki and Radha Agrawal have if a tampon falls out of your purse (but
very look, even, will dim the brightness invented ‘period-proof’ panties. Thinx toilet paper and tissue in your bathroom
of mirrors, blunt the edge of steel, and underwear is washable and reusable, is A-OK), and using euphemisms are part
take away the polish from ivory. A swarm utilizes microfibre technology and comes and parcel of the silence that leads to
of bees, if looked upon by her, will die in different styles to match your monthly superstition, ignorance and sexism. And all
immediately.” Don’t laugh, because flow. The sisters say their panties are a that on a completely normal and healthy
nearly two millennia later the British response to the heaving U.S. landfills where body function. Yawns and sneezes are also
Medical Journal harrumphed in 1878 that a 12 billion pads and 7 million tampons are regulatory functions that don’t provoke
menstruating woman would cause bacon dumped every year. Operating as a social berserk reactions. Time to get off that
to putrefy. Today girls and women are still enterprise means proceeds from Thinx antiquated shame wagon.
in some cultures considered unclean during sales go to training women in developing Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an
their period and, depending on cultural nations to manufacture and sell affordable, award-winning nonprofit social enterprise
beliefs, are segregated, banned from reusable pads locally. providing vocational training for at-risk
religious activities and not allowed to come Access to hygiene products isn’t too youth

HCMC
TAMAGO TIN NGHIA 170 Vo Van Tan, Q3 NAM GIAO
PAN-JAPANESE VEGAN
M M M BUN BO HUE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1
(08) 3744 4634 3821 2538
STREET FOOD BANH MI THANH
tamagoresto@gmail.com One of the city’s oldest eat- MAI HOANG
Located on the main drag in eries (established in 1925) VIETNAMESE BANH MI PHO DAU
does some of the cheapest BA GHIEN 107 Truong Dinh, Q3
Thao Dien, Tamago has in- PHO BO
COM TAM
door and out door seating, and tastiest vegan cuisine in BANH TAM BI TO CHAU 288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
On The Town a terrace and private rooms. town, all cooked up without BANH TAM
They have a ladies’ night on onions, garlic or MSG. 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tuesdays as well as a Tep- PHO HOA
BA NAM PHO BO & PHO GA
panyaki themed night on
VESPER GOURMET BO KHO 260C Pasteur, Q3
Saturday evenings. Have a BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
LOUNGE Alleyway to the left of 162
second restaurant in Mui Ne. VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
INTERNATIONAL Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi PHO LE
TEMPLE CLUB Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 PHO BO
9698 BANH CANH HOANG TY Namsonsteak.com 413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
PAN-VIETNAMESE
facebook.com/vespersaigon BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
Headed up by well-known 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
(08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a BUN CHA HA NOI PHO PHU GIA
Once a hotel for Indian dig- sophisticated yet down-to- BUN CHA PHO BO
earth cocktail bar and res- BANH CUON HAI NAM 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
nitaries visiting old Saigon,
taurant with subtle lighting BANH CUON
the elegant and atmos-
and a great spirit selection. 11A Cao Thang, Q3
pheric Temple Club is one
of the city’s best-preserved Serves creative, Japanese and CHI THONG PHO PHU VUONG
buildings. Serving quality German-influenced cuisine to BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI PHO BO
supplement the drinks and BANH KHOT CO 195 Co Giang, Q1 339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
Vietnamese and Indochine
has a separate dining space. BA VUNG TAU
cuisine at reasonable prices.
BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3 COM GA XOI MO SU SU SUSHI KO
THE DECK WRAP & ROLL VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN STREET SUSHI
MODERN ASIAN FUSION 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 55 Tu Xuong, Q3 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, BANH MI HONG HOA
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632 Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De VIETNAMESE BANH MI
Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097 62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 THE LUNCH LADY
thedecksaigon.com COM TAM 40A
Set on the banks of Saigon wrap-roll.com COM TAM
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
The lime green walls and 40A Quoc Huong, Q2 23 Hoang Sa, Q1
River across from Thanh Da
bright pastel colours of Wrap BANH MI HUYNH HOA
Island, this innovative res-
taurant serves up modern ‘n Roll are just part of the ‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI
theme of this homegrown, 26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 MI QUANG MY SON TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
Asian fusion cuisine in a
Vietnamese brand which is HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
Bali-style atmosphere, com- MI QUANG
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
all about spring rolls of all 38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
plemented by great cocktails
types, and healthy, Hue- BANH MI SAU MINH (08) 3821 7751
and a long wine list.
influenced cuisine. VIETNAMESE BANH MI
THE HUNGRY PIG YU CHU

BACON BAR / CAFE
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 1st Floor, InterContinental
3836 4533 Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
facebook.com/thehungry- Trung & Le Duan, Q1
pigcafe Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Think bacon, bacon and intercontinental.com/saigon
more bacon, all set in airy, Skillful chefs prepare au-
spacious atmosphere, and thentic hand-pulled noodles,
you get The Hungry Pig, an fresh dim sum and hot wok
eatery specialising in any- dishes within an impeccably
thing from the bacon butty designed open kitchen, as
through to the bacon Caesar. diners look on. Stylish and
A popular hangout. spectacular.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 3248
The service is often slow, and
the staff are often surpris-
THE SOCIETY ingly lazy, yet the food here
GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR is so good and so unique to
99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) this city, that no-one seems
3914 3999 to mind. The perfect place
facebook.com/TheSociety- to feast out on gyros and all
HCM things off a skewer. Cheap,
Designed as a Laneway- too.
style restobar, the kind of
place found in Hong Kong,
London, New York or Cen- ZOOM CAFÉ
tral Melbourne, thanks to AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
its indoor and outdoor am- 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
bience, The Society brings 3920 3897
dining and drinking to a new vietnamvespaadventures.
level. Phenomenal cocktails, com/cafe_zoom
steaks, grilled fare and sea- This corner-located Vespa-
food make this a place to go infatuated venue is a café
for drinks, a full-blown meal and restaurant by day and
or a mixture of both. a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Ca-
jun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.

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Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Ton That Dam C4, C5
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Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Tran Canh Chan D2 Thao
Bui Thi Xuan C3
Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5 Tran Cao Van B4
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Nguyen Son Ha C2 Tran Dinh Xu D2, D3
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Do Quang Dau D3 Lan Anh Sports
Nguyen Van Lac A5 Truong Quyen B3
Do Thanh C1 & Leisure Club
Nguyen Van Mai A2 Truong Sa A4, A5
Doan Nhu Hai D5
Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Tu Xuong B2
Doan Van Bo D5
Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Vinh Hoi E3, E4, E5
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Nguyen Van Troi A1 Vinh Khanh D4, D5
Dong Khoi B4, C4, C5
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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL
Food Poisoning
We all like to eat well, but what happens when you get on the wrong side
of the food chain? Words by Siân Kavanagh
I
t all starts with a sudden gurgle, few foolproof ways to ensure you never can cause pain and diarrhoea for
somewhere deep within your stomach, fall victim to digestive troubles, but there anywhere from two weeks to months
as a film of sweat develops over your are measures you can take. Dr. Masato at a time.
body. You don’t think too much at recommends being aware of where you
first, until you immediately know that consume food and drink, and how it is 5) BEST ROUTES FOR RECOVERY. Recovery from
the only place you’re going to be for the prepared and handled, as most cases of food poisoning or Traveller’s Diarrhoea
next couple of hours is the bathroom. food poisoning are caused by poor hygiene again depends on the type of pathogen that
Get your phone charged and limber up, practices. has caused you to become ill. “Hydration
you’re going on one of the most common is the key to a successful recovery from
adventures in Vietnam; food poisoning. 3) PREVENTATIVE SELF MEDICATION. Depending diarrhoea, and if you are passing enough
It’s not fun, and it’s certainly not on the type of antibiotic used, it is possible to urine there is no need to worry about
glamorous, but it’s a very real part of living successfully prevent some forms of Traveller’s hydration,” recommends Dr. Masato.
in Vietnam. Food poisoning occurs when Diarrhoea but it is not recommended to do Sufficient hydration is doubly important for
you have ingested certain pathogens that so without consulting a medical professional young children. If you have been in severe
cause disruption to your digestive system, first. Even so, bacteria evolve and develop pain or experiencing symptoms for over a
also known as Traveller’s Diarrhoea (even different characteristics over time. This means week, then it is time to consult a medical
when you are a native or local to the country that bacteria can become resistant to certain professional about how to further aid
where you contract it). antibiotics, especially when they are self- recovery back to full health. Remember the
prescribed, overused, or used to treat another following:
The Source issue such as a viral infection or parasite. It is
There are three types of micro-organisms also possible to prophylactically take Pepto- — Viral infections can only be treated by
that can cause common digestive trouble; Bismol, as the key ingredient is bismuth allowing the body to heal itself, and
viruses, bacteria and parasites. Each micro- subsalicylate (BSS). When taken daily in alleviate the symptoms themselves
organism affects the body and must be either 2oz of liquid or two chewable tablets, such as using fever reducers or
treated accordingly, and it is more often than four times a day, BSS has been known to painkillers. Imodium can be used;
not impossible to self-diagnose which of reduce the occurrence of Traveller’s Diarrhoea however diarrhoea is a defense
these is affecting you. by 50% from studies based in Mexico. mechanism of your intestines to help
Depending on the source of the digestive them repair, and to overuse Imodium
trouble, the pathogen that has caused these 4) VIRAL VS. BACTERIA VS. PARASITES. By can be just as disruptive as letting your
symptoms could have been incubating for understanding exactly what microorganism body use its own mechanism.
any period of time from a few hours to over has made its way into your body you can
a week, and infections with pathogens that also help determine the best routes for — Bacterial infections can be treated with
take longer to manifest symptoms make up medical follow up. antibiotics though there is no guarantee
10% of all food poisoning cases, according that the bacteria that has infected your
to the Center for Disease Control and — Viral infections will typically result in digestive system isn’t resistant to
Prevention (CDC). relatively mild symptoms compared the drugs. It is also possible to treat the
Here are the top tips for understanding to other types of infection, and the symptoms for a bacterial infection
and recovering from food poisoning: body will likely heal by itself. Viral as well.
infections are typically less common,
1) KNOW YOUR SYMPTOMS. “The two most only causing about 5% to 8% of — Parasitic infections are a lot less
common symptoms of food poisoning are reported cases. common than bacterial infections and
diarrhoea and abdominal pain, though these demand treatment on a case-by-case
two symptoms are not exclusively indicators — Bacterial infections can cause more basis.
of food poisoning,” says Dr. Masato Okuda, severe symptoms than viral infections,
the gastroenterology specialist at Family especially abdominal pain and Statistically speaking at least 70% of us
Medical Practice. Other frequent symptoms diarrhoea, but the symptoms should will suffer from some form of Traveller’s
of food poisoning include fever, nausea last only last about one week. Bacteria Diarrhoea (yes even if we live here) or food
and vomiting. There are some extremely are one of the most common causes of poisoning, and it’s not the end of the world.
infrequent symptoms of food poisoning, Traveller’s Diarrhoea and food Though there are reported cases of parasites,
including body paralysis caused by Guillain- poisoning, accounting for 80 to 90% of which are somewhat frequent in Southeast
Barre syndrome or bacterial reactive arthritis cases reported. Asia, and other severe diseases, the best
or severe joint pain, also identified as course of action is to talk to a medical
Reiter’s syndrome. — Parasitic symptoms can vary from mild professional. If it’s your run-of-the-mill
to severe, but the key difference for diarrhoea and abdominal cramps, make sure
2) FIND YOUR BALANCE OF CAUTION AND seeing if you have a parasite is the to stay hydrated, have plenty of rest, and
ADVENTURE. Unfortunately, there are very amount of time you are ill, as parasites know that this too shall pass.

The Final Say
THE FINAL SAY NATIONAL
Vegetarian Hanoi
With over 50 restaurants in the capital now catering for vegetarians and vegans,
binning the meat in Hanoi is more than a passing fad. Words by Eduardo Culbeaux
A
s a vegetarian all my life, I was steady stream of westerners who pop into Bo The environment and chemicals found in
interested in learning about De Quan for a quick bite to eat or food to go, meat represents a concern shared by a lot
Hanoi’s burgeoning vegetarian and many other Hanoi vegetarian business of people. “The animals are fed hormones
scene. I met with Phong Van Doan owners have recently seen growth in the so they can grow big and fat, then people
at my favourite vegan restaurant on Au demand for vegetarian food. eat these animals and so are eating all those
Co. We sat at the large community table Dan Ni, a waiter at Daluva, a more hormones,” said another person I spoke to,
while I sipped on my bowl of bun rieu chay upscale restaurant that offers a meatless Charline Rieffel.
and crispy nem chay cooked in coconut oil. Monday special agrees: “I think the number
Doan wasn’t always a vegan. Her mom of vegetarians among the Vietnamese A Growing Fad
used to call her “Mongolian” because she population will grow more slowly. A lot of There are currently over 50 establishments
mostly ate meat and drank milk. Doan people think that meat is crucial and that listed as vegan or vegetarian on happycow.
recalls the times when she would make her you can’t substitute meat for other things.” net in Hanoi alone. There is also a very
mom cook her favourite meat dish, thit kho active Facebook group with over 700
tan, a type of fried crispy pork, every night. It Takes All Types members called Vegan Organic Hanoi.
She had dietary problems since Matador Network, the world’s largest Once you are connected, finding amazing
kindergarten, but it culminated this summer independent travel publisher, put out a vegetarian food all across the city is no
when her “Mongolian” diet made her report last year stating seven reasons why problem. There are fresh vegetables and
bed-ridden for weeks. Like any teen she all vegetarians should travel to Vietnam. The tofu everywhere, as well as a growing
found refuge in YouTube videos where she number one reason is you probably won’t number of shops selling fake meat.
stumbled upon Freelee the Banana Girl, a get diarrhoea. It also claimed the word for Although, most people I talked to are
YouTuber who promotes a vegan lifestyle. vegetarian in Vietnamese, chay, is pretty easy still weary of fake meat and see it as just
After a month of being vegan she started to pronounce even without intonation. another processed food to avoid.
noticing improvements in her health. After In Hanoi I found various types of It is not just vegan/vegetarian
two months, she was able to go off her vegetarians. First, the Buddhists. Some restaurants that are cashing in on
medication. people may assume that because of vegetarianism. Veggie burgers, burritos
The dramatic change in her health, and an Buddhism there would be a lot of and falafels are among other things that are
accidental meeting with a vegan Vietnamese vegetarians in Vietnam. The reality is only peppering the menus of most restaurants
teacher altered the course of her life. She about 12% of Vietnam’s population describe in Hanoi. If you are feeling really hard-core
now is a vegan activist and has started a themselves as Buddhist. There are even some about your devotion to a vegetarian planet,
Facebook group called Vegan Hanoi that reports that claim Buddha himself may not people in Vegan Organic Hanoi will even
already includes over 300 members. It’s have been vegetarian. These Buddhists still help you facilitate creating vegetarian food
not all perfect — she understands that the eat a little meat from time to time, but try to for your pets.
Vietnamese community is still struggling to eat mostly vegetarian. Veganism has found adherents in
understand a vegan diet. There are Hindus who follow a more strict big business, as well. Asia’s richest
vegetarian diet, abstaining even from foods businessman Li Ka-Shing recently invested
Life Without Meat like onions and garlic. These vegetarians US$23 million in Hampton Creek Foods,
Quyen Vo, an employee at Bo De Quan (164 believe that you shouldn’t eat anything that which makes vegan mayonnaise.
Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi), a vegan restaurant you can’t offer to Krishna. They also believe Globally, the vegetarian food market
in Tay Ho, said: “When we first opened, two that consuming certain vegetables and spices is rapidly increasing, as people become
years ago, we were really struggling. Some will stimulate the central nervous system, more aware of the positive effects reducing
Vietnamese customers would come to our and may increase passion and ignorance. meat consumption has on the body and
shop and say can I have a bowl of beef pho? The most common type of vegetarians I on the environment. And in Vietnam, the
We would say sorry; we are vegan, and they met in Hanoi are not absolute vegetarians. vegetarian population is definitely growing,
would say sorry, I cannot eat it because I “I stopped eating meat five days of the week even if it may be led by westerners for now.
cannot live without meat. I eat meat every after watching the documentary Cowspiracy For a full list of vegan and vegetarian
day, if I don’t eat meat I die.” — the effects that eating meat has on the restaurants in Hanoi, click on happycow.net/
On any given weekday there is now a environment is devastating,” said Jolie Lamb. asia/vietnam/hanoi

The Final Say
Ten10
Despite being surrounded by Vietnamese eateries, the multiple award-winning Song
Que is probably the most successful Vietnamese restaurant in London. Yet it remains
very down to earth. Its owners, Luoc and Anh, tell their story. Photo by Nick Ross
When did you arrive in the UK? didn’t understand — at the time we only If you look after a tree, water it, treat it
Luoc: A long time ago. I arrived in 1979. I had one person working the floor and three well, you’ll get fruit. That’s how we see it.
come from Saigon. people in the kitchen. That day it was raining,
Anh: I came in 1989. We didn’t know each and suddenly there was a long queue outside In the past, people from the UK
other before I arrived. We met in the UK. I the restaurant. This was 2003. We realised didn’t know that much about
come from Ben Tre. that our service wasn’t up to scratch and Vietnamese food. How did you
that the food was coming out of the kitchen deal with this?
What did you do before you really slowly, but the customers were really Anh: It was so difficult. So for example,
opened Song Que? understanding. After they ate that night, they bun. People didn’t understand. They said,
Luoc: When I first arrived, my English started chatting to us, and it was only then ‘But the noodles are cold. How can we eat
wasn’t good. So I ended up washing dishes. that we realised we’d been written about in a them?’ They would complain. Someone
But after a few years I knew I had to move magazine — it was Time Out London. else said that eating our bi cuon, rice paper
forward, so I started learning English. Once rolls, were like eating rubber bands. But
I had a better grasp of it, I got work as a What happened after the article? now, we sell bi cuon a lot.
waiter for a Singaporean restaurant. Anh: Loads of people came to the restaurant
to interview us, and then nine months later You also sell a few dishes that are
Why did you decide to go into the we won the Time Out award for Best Cheap not Vietnamese, like for example,
restaurant business? Eats in London, 2003. We were so surprised crispy duck. Why is this?
Anh: We wanted to do something for our and never imagined in our wildest dreams Anh: When we opened, not so many
family and also to do something for the that we’d get such an award. people were able to eat Vietnamese
Vietnamese community. We were focused cuisine. So, we added in a few Chinese
on having Vietnamese customers, not on When you make your food, do you dishes like the crispy duck. But now,
foreigners. But once we opened, all sorts of adapt it to the taste of people in because it’s so popular, we can’t take it off
people came to try out the food. the UK? the menu
We cook it as if we are cooking for
How did you get yourself such a Vietnamese people. From when we first How do you manage to maintain
good name? opened, we have never changed this. Our such consistency?
Three months after we opened — without food is exactly what you’d get in Vietnam. Anh: I marinate all the meat and fish
us knowing — a magazine wrote an article myself. I also make all the sauces. I don’t
on us. Prior to the piece, the restaurant was How do you manage to attract all let anyone else do it, even the head chef.
really quiet, but suddenly, one Tuesday, loads the customers? I’m starting to show my oldest daughter,
of people phoned up to reserve a table. We Anh: We’re just lucky. But we’re like a tree. but otherwise, I do all of this myself.

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 5

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

THE TALK 24 / Carmen EAT & DRINK

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TRAVEL 50 / Just In COLUMNS

HANOI 180 / Top Eats 192/ Ten 10

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JON ASPIN BAO ZOAN JULIE VOLA

SIAN KAVANAGH ADMINISTRATION

EMILY PETSKO Word is a registered © Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

6 | Word May 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Prelude professor — but

Have Your Say

@gmail or @hotmail for business.

company for a glorified jolly

Awful, AWFUL article. pregnant; ripping off business partners, or

Change of Companies. Many expat

No Paperwork. We all know some expats

Change of Social Group. I have met

No Chamber Affiliation. Here is a great

meet your ‘dodgy’ criteria we don’t need to be dodgy if

doing good for the world we do it your way. — JO

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Smartphones for the People

From iPhones to the cheapest Chinese UMIs,

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Autarcie industry for more than two decades. Ratatat

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PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

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The Man From Uncle

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Making Every Performance Index

Voice Count Vietnam. Words by

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Fundraisers, Merci Nail Spa and Bistor has a great

pieces by Japanese Op-artist Yohei HCMC 3824 8284

and Juergen Buhre respectively.

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Berlin-based production and DJ

Asian Hideaways Gallery opened

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list HCMC Nick Monaco