Food and Travel Arabia April 2014 VK Com Englis PDF

Gourmet travels in COOKERY
ITALY
Pasta, pumpkins
COURSES
around the globe
and palaces
Sunday
Float best
your boat Brilliant brunches
New river cruises and lazy lunches
Cit y
escapes
Japan,
USA & Germany
PETAL
POWER
Floral spring breaks
ELEGANT APRIL 2014
BAKING
Meringues to millefeuilles
Recipes Restaurants Places to Stay Darren Velvick Bobby Chinn

Editor’s
letter
Managing Editor Liz O’Reilly Spring is a time for new beginnings so I’m delighted to welcome
Contributing Editor Zoe Rodgers you to Food and Travel Arabia, your new and essential guide to
Online Editor Ali Al Saeed adventure, gastronomy, tempting recipes and insider knowledge
Senior Designer Joy Evangelista
that you won’t find anywhere else.
Operations Manager Ajit Pillai
Production Manager Bronwen Kruger Each month we’ll be bringing you news of wonderful gourmet
Publisher Marc Wildman getaways and fabulous food, from the Orient and the
Sales Director Andy Baker Mediterranean to the treasures of Arabian cuisine, much closer
Advertising Consultant Cíosa Butlin to home.
Look out for great reader offers alongside news of hotel and
Email info@gulfdigital.net
Twitter @foodtravelme restaurant openings, interviews with the Middle East’s star chefs
Facebook @foodandtravelme and much more. We’ll also be trying our hand at some of the Gulf’s
Web www.foodandtravel.me best cookery classes as there’s no better way to get to the heart of a
region than through its cuisine.
Communications & Design
This month read about cookery schools across the world (p65) as
Greenline Marketing
info@glm-me.com well as our travels and culinary adventures in Jordan (p90) and
Distribution Enquiries further afield to Italy (p26).
Gulf Publishing And, in keeping with the spring theme, we’ve rounded up some of
info@gulfdigital.net the most wonderful places to see the season’s floral regeneration
Sales & Advertising
with blooms bursting back into life (p58).
Gulf Publishing
sales@gulfdigital.net I hope you enjoy reading the first issue as much we have enjoyed
putting it together.
Printed by Atlas Printing Press Dubai
Liz O’Reilly Managing Editor
Contributors
Food and Travel, UK

Guy Woodward, editor
guy.woodward@
foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Germany
Anne Coppenrath, editor
anne.coppenrath@
foodandtravel.de
Food and Travel, Mexico Michael Booth Stefano Scatà Carla Capalbo
Cecilia Núñez, editor Author and journalist Born in Pordenone Carla is a food,
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx Michael previously and a professional wine and travel
Food and Travel, Turkey
spent time training photographer since writer based
Mehmet Tel, editor
to be a chef in 1984, Stefano between Italy and
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr
Paris – fuel for his loves cooking and London. She has
memoir, Sacré everything around it written many books
Cordon Bleu. Today, – shooting dishes, about Italy and
he lives by the chefs and products its food culture,
Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green
sea in Denmark, for numerous including Collio:
Pea Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. and his writing has clients and Fine Wines and
Food and Travel & Food and Travel Arabia are encompassed publications in Italy Foods from Italy’s
published under license from Turnstart Limited,
a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK subjects from new and abroad. You North-East, which
company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive Nordic cuisine to can find his work in won the André
licensed agents and distributors for Food & sushi for the likes the likes of Vanity Simon award. A
Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright of
Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed of The Independent Fair or Wall Street regular contributor
material belong to Turnstart Limited and may and Monocle. Journal, and his to Decanter, we
not be reproduced whether in whole or in part
without its prior written consent. The name
For our guide to images of Mantua sent her to Mantua
“Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart Sapporo (p104) he and its renowned in Lombardy (p26)
Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily shares the secrets cuisine (p26) had to soak up its
those of the Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts
and photographs are not accepted and will not of Japan’s far-flung us dying to make a pasta, pumpkins
be returned. northern city. visit ourselves. and palaces.
*Rate and upgrades are subject to availability, 17% service charge & taxes. Rate is valid until 16th July 2014.
Open Your Eyes to a World
of Natural Beauty
Exclusive Opening Rates starting from OMR 70* per night,

inclusive of breakfast for 2 and a complimentary room upgrade.
Our first 5-star hotel in the Sultanate of Oman, Salalah Rotana Resort features
400 stunning rooms and suites built around waterways and a stretch of
pristine sandy beach. Enjoy a scenic 20 km ride from Salalah Airport and
embrace a new standard of Arabesque architecture, style and comfort. The
resort offers a wide variety of amenities set alongside the breath-taking
shores of the Indian Ocean.
Visit rotana.com to make your reservation,
email res.salalah@rotana.com or call +968 2327 5700
Treasured Time. Our promise to you.
April 2014
RECIPE INDEX
STARTS ON PAGE 116
38
40
STARTERS AND MAIN COURSES
116 Radish, crab, orange and lime salad

116 Steamed heritage radishes with mustard and
chervil dressing 24 45
116 Radish meze
117 Radish, pea, cucumber and herb leaf salad 86
85
with torn mozzarella 62
117 Sbrisolona Mantovana
64
122 Eggs Benedict, Florentine, royal or with lobster
123 Anchovy-rubbed, hay-baked leg of mutton with
parsley and caper sauce
123 Grilled kippers with lemon butter
123 Borough burger
124 Breaded veal cutlet with a fried duck’s egg,
anchovies and capers
124 Chargrilled 1kg T-bone steak with scrumpy-
battered onion rings
125 Potato and arish balls
126 Roasted beef patties and potatoes
126 Middle Eastern lamb dumplings
127 Spaghetti cooked in milk
127 Scallops and basturma drizzled with
pomegranate butter 83 80
DESSERTS AND PUDDINGS

117 Passion fruit and raspberry millefeuilles
118 Raspberry and mango swirl meringues
119 Salted caramel and hazelnut cheesecakes
119 Mini rose éclairs
120 Pistachio and white chocolate frangipane
barquettes
120 Fraisier with orange
121 Espresso succès
122 Chilli chocolate almond tarts
127 Shredded pastry with chocolate cream
70
42
48 48
4 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

105
52
On the cover
Food and Travel Arabia

40 Elegant baking
April 2014 Issue No 1

26 Italy
Mantua, Cookery courses, Radishes, Roasts, Patisserie, River Cruises, Sapporo, Philadelphia, Bobby Chinn
Gourmet travels in COOKERY
ITALY COURSES
82 River cruises
around the globe
Pasta, pumpkins
and palaces
Sunday
Float best
your boat Brilliant brunches
New river cruises and lazy lunches
Cit y
escapes
Japan,
USA & Germany
101 City escapes
PETAL
POWER
65 Cookery courses
Taste the experience – experience the taste
Floral spring breaks
ELEGANT 46 Sunday best

BAKING
58
Meringues to millefeuilles
Recipes Restaurants Places to Stay Darren Velvick Bobby Chinn Petal power
51
INSIDE
ARRIVALS TRAVEL
7 Hotel news New openings in 58 Spring loaded We round up
Ajman, Dubai, Oman, Ras Al the best breaks for celebrating
22 Khaimah and internationally spring flowers in bloom
82 Staying current Gabriella Le

41 12 Travel news St Petersburg in six
Breton on the newest boats, trips
stops and biking in Oman
and trends in river cruising
14 Food news Easter eggs for adults,
90 Jewel in the Crown A look
plus going organic
at Jordan’s unique culture and
17 Restaurant news Zuma’s expansion cuisine
in the UAE 48 hours Spend a weekend in
101
19 Kitchen confidential Darren Hanover, Philadelphia and Sapporo
47
Velvick gets nostalgic
FOOD
GOURMET TRAVELS 20 In season Crunchy, punchy
and full of the joys of spring:
26 Tortelli town Carla Capalbo heads
to Mantua to immerse herself in its radishes make a versatile and
culinary and cultural heritage distinctive ingredient
40 Delicate desires Linda Tubby’s

65 Cooking all over the world For a light but indulgent patisserie
truly immersive food break, create a selection is sure to impress
trip around one of our 50 top
cookery schools across the world 46 Sunday best Relaxing lunches,
brunches and, of course, roasts
TRIED AND TASTED – all from the London restaurant
Courses and deli Cake at that bears the same name
109
30 Kempinski & all things Lebanese at 52 East to west Middle Eastern
Wafi cuisine with an Australian touch,
110 Restaurants Masso, Rivington courtesy of Sharon Salloum
Grill, Amaz and three for weekend
brunch PLUS
128 After hours Bobby Chinn reveals
112 Places to stay Bed down in
the French lakes, the UAE and kitchen tales and inspirations
Montreal
114 Books Stéphane Reynaud on

tripe, plus other new releases
Arrivals
News and views from the worlds of food, drink and travel
DIVE IN, CHILL OUT…

The days of getting up early to bag your lounger are over. With
the west coast of Phuket increasingly over-developed, the
smart money on the Thai island is moving east – and one of its
smartest hotels yet, Point Yamu, opened in November. Set on
a raised promontory, with 79 rooms and suites, it boasts 360˚
Photography by Angela Dukes
views over Phang Nga Bay. This is designer Paola Navone’s

first hotel, and her clever use of textures and colour permeate
the fashionably industrial interiors; while its Shambhala Retreat
offers Asian-inspired holistic therapies. Nahmyaa restaurant’s
Malay- (or Peranakan-) inspired menu offers great massaman
lamb curries plus Thai favourites such as crispy fried grouper
with sweet, sour and salty sauce. The breakfast options,
impeccably sourced, are probably the best in town – perfect
for the poolside. Just not too early… comohotels.com
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 7

Arrivals
HOTELS
Located on a private island off

the coast of Ras Al Khaimah,
Marjan Island Resort and Spa
has 302 rooms and suites with large balconies from which
guests can savour idyllic island sunsets with the warm waters of
the Arabian Gulf right on the doorstep. There’s a 1km seafront
boardwalk dotted with a variety of dining outlets, a host of water
sports running on the island’s two pristine beaches, loads for
young visitors to do including a kids’ club and an entire floor
dedicated to the La’Mar Holistic Wellness Spa which houses
separate men’s and women’s treatment rooms, hamams, steam
rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, gyms and an indoor swimming pool.
marjanislandresort.com
MARJAN ISLAND RESORT AND SPA
New OPENINGS IN… AJMAN DUBAI OMAN RAS AL KHAIMAH
The opening of the UAE’s first beachfront Luxury Collection hotel, New York and was known as a place to see and be seen. But if
the AJMAN SARAY, marks Starwood’s debut in the emirate which is relaxing’s more your style, there’s a white sand beach, pools, kids’
aiming to position itself as a haven for international travellers. club and lots more. (waldorfastoria.com)
With 205 luxury rooms and suites offering views of the Arabian Opened in March, the 400-room, five-star SALALAH ROTANA
Gulf, the resort offers a variety of epicurean experiences including a RESORT is the largest free-standing hotel in Oman.
speciality restaurant focusing on authentic Middle Eastern delicacies Set on the pristine Arabian coast just a stone’s throw from the
and a seafood eatery making the most of its coastal position. famous Salalah Beach, each of the resort’s luxury rooms and
There’s also a 1,250-sq-m spa, swimming pool and a range of suites are positioned directly on unique lagoons or nestled around
water sports to work off those Arabic delicacies. (luxurycollection. water features and an elaborate network of manmade waterways
com/ajmansaray). which connect the property to the Indian Ocean.
The new 319-room WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH Inspired by both local culture and the natural beauty of the
exudes the true luxury, world class amenities and sophistication for landscape, the heart of the hotel boasts high ceilings and a
which the brand is known. central internally-lit handmade red clay dome complementing the
Qualified guests are assigned a personal concierge to make sure wooden finishing and decorative mashrabiya latticework windows.
their every wish is met and visitors will be spoilt for choice with The in-room furnishings have been carved from desert rock while
a selection of six restaurants and bars including the New York- Arabesque geometric designs and stone archways, constructed
inspired Social by European chef and author Heinz Beck. using traditional techniques, resemble a cathedral atrium.
Drawing on the brand’s famous history, the centrepiece of the hotel There is a range of restaurants as well as Rotana’s own brand
is Peacock Alley, named after the famous high-society promenade Zen Spa to keep you busy while you’re not out exploring Salalah’s
lounge which connected the original Waldorf and Astoria hotels in monsoon-fed countryside. (rotana.com)
AJMAN SARAY WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH SALALAH ROTANA RESORT
Arrivals
HOTELS
Another cool offering from the same group as Point Yamu is the new
Metropolitan by Como, which shimmers with art deco elegance on
Miami Beach. Oceanic pastels, marble and chrome feature in its 74
rooms, while locally sourced seafood is artfully plated in its restaurant.
A Shambhala spa, rooftop juice bar and hydrotherapy pool keep it
ultra-modern too. Meanwhile, the Maalifushi by Como (opening April)
is surrounded by the crystalline waters of the Maldives’ Thaa Atoll, a
desert island where half the rooms are spread like lily pads over
the water, the other half tucked away amid lush vegetation.
MAALIFUSHI BY COMO
New OPENINGS IN… MIAMI MALDIVES MALLORCA STOCKHOLM PALO ALTO
Puerto Portals in Mallorca’s Bay of Palma has long been a ceilings give the hotel a modern feel, while preserving traits
glamour spot, and OD PORT PORTALS (opening this April) fits the of the original 1910-made building. (missclarahotel.com).
retro chic perfectly. The interlocking pattern of its ocean-facing Lying just south of San Francisco in California’s sunny Silicon
balconies appears as a subtler rendition of some of its 1960s Valley, the city of Palo Alto may be something of a tech mecca
neighbours. The theme continues inside, where the light-filled, (having served as the incubator for digital Goliaths such as
long, open-plan lobby is lavishly adorned with nods to mid- Google, Facebook and Apple) but its new EPIPHANY HOTEL is
century design classics. The port and its cluster of high-end more than just a pilgrim’s inn. Located across the road from the
shops, bars and restaurants is only a short sashay away, if you leafy campus of Stanford University, it resonates with creative
can drag yourself from the pool. (od-hotels.com). energy, from a piece of kit that lets you stream media from
Stockholm’s MISS CLARA hotel – in a treasured art nouveau your iPod straight to the room’s 120cm TVs, through to the
building – reopens this April. Leaving subtle hints of femininity dedicated technology concierge and the free high-speed wifi
as a nod to the property’s past as a girls’ school, it puts you found throughout. The hotel is stylish but not at the cost of
on the doorstep of busy boulevard Sveavägen, the capital’s comfort, and the decor is definitely more chic than geek. Illy
most cosmopolitan street. In the dining room, watch the urban espresso machines, work desks with ergonomic chairs and a
buzz while trying executive chef Danny Guest’s reinvention of full-service restaurant, the Hopkins Tract, that offers 24-hour
Swedish classics. The use of Scandinavian materials of rich room service, are all perfect additions for any entrepreneurial
woods and natural leather alongside arched windows and high brains up burning the midnight oil. (jdvhotels.com).
MAALIFUSHI BY COMO OD PORT PORTALS OD PORT PORTALS

Arrivals
TRAVEL
CITY TOUR
DOHA
If you’re transiting
through Doha with
Qatar Airways and
have a stopover
between five and
12 hours, you can
now take a free city
tour courtesy of the airline and
Qatar Tourism.
Lasting around three hours
the tour takes in sites such
as the Museum of Islamic Art,
ON YOUR BIKE Oman
Take the opportunity to explore the Omani countryside with Bike & Hike Oman
Katara Cultural and Heritage
(bikeandhikeoman.com +968 9516 5038) before the weather gets too hot for such
Village (pictured) and Souq
exertions. The company was set up in 2012 with its headquarters at The View hotel in the
Waqif. Passengers can register
small oasis of Al Hamra in the Hajar Mountains from where it offers unique biking tours,
at the Doha City Tour counter
most of which run until the end of April. Distances range from 23km to 60-plus and you’ll
at Doha International Airport
news
need to be pretty fit. Prices start at $109 going in a group of three to ten cyclists and
transit terminal.
there are reductions if you’re staying at The View which has a new look following major
renovations – no more tents. (theview.com +968 2440 0873)
Travel
TIGHT TASMANIAN LINES
As we enter spring, the southern hemisphere moves into autumn – the
perfect time to celebrate a unique Australian anniversary with a new
world-class fishing holiday. Exactly 150 years ago, thousands of brown
trout eggs were transported from Britain to Tasmania, multiplying
profusely in the island’s abundant rivers and lakes. Now Australia’s top
professional fisherwoman, Simone Hackett, has marked the occasion by
launching a six-day break, tailored for both novices and experts, in the
island’s central highlands. Two-week self-drive trip, including fishing,
accommodation and car hire, from $3,262pp. (tasmanianodyssey.com)
Diary
GERMANY
The Walpurgisnacht
dates
CHINA
Po Shui Jie, the
SOUTH AFRICA
A weekend
ABU DHABI
Ferrari World hosts
BRAZIL
Get your fill of
festival sees locals water-splashing packed with all live shows from sausage and
dress up as witches festival in the Yunnan things cheese, around the globe at cassava at the
and warlocks to Province, is a huge the South African World Beats. Comida di Buteco
fend off evil spirits. water fight for all Cheese Festival in Performers include festival. Brazil’s best
Trek up the Brocken ages, where you Sandringham has Japanese ‘Taiko’ bars battle to serve
mountain to dance can splash each rows of eateries and drummers, capoeira the finest appetizers
around the fire and other and cleanse a Ladismith Cheese dancers and musical and beers.
celebrate the glories away the year’s Carving competition. Stomp. Until 6 April. 12 April-12 May.
of spring. 30 April. dirt. 13-15 April. From 26-29 April. (ferrariworldabudhabi. comidadibuteco.
(thisisharz.com) (poshuijie.com) (cheesefestival.co.za) com) com.br

St Petersburg
Wit &wisdom
Spring sees people around the world celebrating from the druids
in six stops
Its river is thawing, days lengthening
at Stonehenge, UK, to the many people of Iranian origin here in the
Middle East who celebrate Nowruz, the Persian New Year, with spring and museums celebrating – it’s time to
cleaning and a family meal featuring seven items beginning with the head east, says Ian Belcher
1
letter S. Elsewhere around the world…
In Valencia, the Las Fallas Festival peaks with giant puppets, some April sees ice melt on the Neva river after three
of them portraying politicians, set alight on a bonfire. frozen months. Visit the palace-lined riverbank
at midnight to see the spectacular bridges
Men and women in Central Asia leap over flames in a hot hello to opening so large ships can make the 75km journey
spring – a tradition dating back to fire worship.
to and from the Gulf of Finland. Better still, watch the
Nepalese revellers enjoy a messy seasonal knees-up by chucking spectacle from a boat (st-petersburg.com).
2
generous handfuls of coloured powder into the air.
A new exhibition on Salvador Dalí and Spanish
Mexico witnesses people climbing up pre-Columbian pyramids and
raising their arms to draw energy from the new season’s sun. surrealism, opening in March, celebrates the
250th anniversary of Catherine the Great
founding The State Hermitage Museum (hermitage
museum.org). The museum follows it up with a hotly
anticipated display of Russian royal couture.
3
Spring sees the start of the summer
programme at New Holland, the former naval
dockyard established by Peter the Great in
1720. While its warehouses are part of a multi-
billion-dollar urban renewal project, the space hosts
seasonal exhibitions and installations, a pop-up
NEW FLIGHTS
organic restaurant and free exercise classes.
4
BOSTON Emirates has commenced daily flights to Boston,
You’re in St Petersburg; you will go to the
USA, from its home in Dubai. emirates.com
ballet. The Mariinsky II, the new $743 million
CYPRUS Qatar Airways launches four-times-weekly flights to offspring of the famous old theatre, is a
Larnaca from Doha beginning April 29. qatarairways.com startlingly modern venue, juxtaposed with
neoclassical façades. Get there early for a tipple on
TEHRAN Gulf Air has launched four flights a week to the the stunning rooftop terrace (mariinsky.ru).
5
Iranian capital from its operating hub in Bahrain. gulfair.com
Snooze among epic history at the famous
Hotel Astoria (thehotelastoria.com). A grand
CARBON COUNTING dame since 1912, it has hosted everyone
Inspired by the destinations featured in this issue of Food and Travel Arabia from Lenin and Rasputin to American presidents.
Photography by English Heritage; Spain.info
Feel even better by offsetting your carbon impact when you travel Alongside amazing views of St Isaac’s Cathedral,
Destination Tonnes CO2 Cost to offset an Olga Polizzi facelift has polished up its
Hanover, Germany 1.34 $16.56 atmospheric, heritage-listed interiors.
6
Mantua, Italy 1.28 $15.88
Philadelphia, USA 3.33 $41.20 April means St Petersburg’s days are longer,
Sapporo, Japan 2.22 $27.66 lighter and warmer (although the White Nights
are still two months away). Wrap up well for
Based on return flights to Dubai one of its new rash of alfresco rooftop bars and
restaurants, from Terrassa’s international dining
Offset your carbon emissions at ClimateCare (climatecare.org),
(terrassa.ru) to W Hotel’s chilled cocktails
where you can make a donation to support projects all over the
(wstpetersburg.com) opposite St Isaac’s dome.
world, from rainforest restoration to bio-energy schemes.

Fresh FROM THE HEART
We’re loving the rise and rise of
organic food in the UAE and beyond,
and we’re big fans of Greenheart
Organic Farms. All its produce is
100% organic and grown on its
farms, so fresh produce is delivered
straight from the farm to its quaint
farm shop each morning. It focuses
on growing heirloom produce and
this month we’ll be filling our basket
with Heirloom Atomic Red Carrots,
Heirloom Paris Market Carrots,
Heirloom Black Cherry Tomatoes
and strawberries, as well as Lemon
Cucumbers, Golden Beetroot and
Black Tuscan Kale. (greenheartuae.com)
Choose CHOIX
When we heard that Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire
had plans to open another venue at the InterContinental Dubai
Festival City we were immediately planning a visit. But our
excitement peaked when we discovered that the new opening
was to be a patisserie and restaurant. CHOIX Patisserie and
Restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire is not only sating the sweet (and
savoury) cravings of diners at breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and
dinner, but has an all-too-tempting take out menu packed with
pastries, breads, biscuits, macarons, cakes, chocolates and more.
FOOD & HOSPITALITY FARM FRESH

ON SHOW If you like your fruit and veg
fresh and locally produced
Bahrain this month hosts its sixth take a trip to the Local
annual Food & Hospitality Expo Harvest Farmers Market
from 15-17 April with loads of stalls running at The Collection
offering new products and a cooking at St. Regis Saadiyat Island
contest featuring Bahraini chefs Resort every Saturday (10am-
creating sweet treats and main 4pm) until summer. Fruit and
course meals. Running alongside is
vegetables are sourced by
the Health & Wellness Expo which
Local Harvest, an initiative
also has great ideas for healthy
of the Abu Dhabi Farmers
eating and demonstrations on how
to get the most out of seasonal
Services Centre (ADFSC),
produce. (Foodexpbh.com) coming from 1,250 farms in
Abu Dhabi, Al Ain and the
Western region.

Arrivals
FOOD
SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM

What do you get if you mix ice cream, a music lawyer and a
passion for quirky, zany flavours? The answer is Emack & Bolio’s.
One of the trendiest ice cream chains around, it was founded
in Boston in 1975 and is opening in Dalma Mall, Abu Dhabi
this month. Emack & Bolio’s is dishing out over 30 original
flavours, including the intriguingly named ‘Chunk o’ Funk’ and
‘Deep Purple Cow’. Flavoured yoghurts, rice crispy-covered
marshmallow cones, signature sundaes, ice cream pizzas and hand
made chocolates are other sweet treats offered. (emackarabia.com)
Egg CELLENT
High Tea
If it’s a slice of history and high tea that you
enjoy, then look no further than Fortnum &
We can’t deny we’re partial to seasonal confectioneries.
Mason. The newly opened outlet located
Truth be told we’re partial to chocolate and candies adjacent to Dubai Mall and The Address
any day of the week, but holidays are a good reason Downtown has brought its unique heritage (it
for both giving and receiving sweet items. So we was founded in 1707 in London), signature
recommend a trip to Candelite where you can discover offerings and imperious dining style to Dubai.
everything from Easter gift hampers – gourmet and Those looking to fully immerse themselves in
kids, pre-packed or customised – to cookies, fudges the Fortnum & Mason experience can enjoy
and candies. Among our favourites are the gorgeous The Tea Salon or The Ice Cream Parlour,
Maxim’s range – we’re not sure what we like most the before purchasing all manner of tempting
chocolate or the packaging! (candelite.com) delights including its signature Rose Petal
Jelly and Rose & Violet English Creams and
of course a selection of the finest teas.
FOOD Ah, macaron – that almond-based

meringue sandwich stuffed with
19th century macarons had become
a staple of French patisserie, though
FILES ganache – so quintessentially

Français in its delicacy. Though
they were commonly served as single
discs. They weren’t fused together
Macarons it does, in fact, have a much more in a sandwich until later. Nowadays
complex origin. While some sources you can find macarons flavoured
date its conception to a convent with everything from rose petal to
near Cormery in 791, others claim liquorice, with the finest coming
that Catherine de’ Medici imported from Ladurée Paris, at Dubai Mall,
the recipe from Italy upon her whose heritage dates back to 1862.
marriage to Henry II. By the early ($3.26 each, laduree.com)

Arrivals
RESTAURANTS
JASON ATHERTON
DUBAI
Celebrity chef Jason
Atherton will make his
CAVALLI CLUB DUBAI Middle East debut at
the coming
Homemade agnolotti Monferrina
InterContinental Dubai
style, lamb fillet with Sichuan
Marina. Atherton, who
pepper and plum sauce and grilled worked as executive
Master Kobe for two are among chef at Gordon LAO DUBAI
the signature dishes of the Cavalli Ramsay’s restaurant The newly opened LAO is aiming to take diners on an
Club Restaurant & Lounge’s new Verre in 2001, exotic food journey that showcases the best of South East
menu. The vision of chef Ernesto achieved his own Asian cuisine, inspired by a philosophy of good and clean
Tonetto, who has worked in several Michelin star just a living. The culinary team led by chef Mai has united the
Michelin-starred restaurants year after opening his traditional flavours and ideas of South East Asian
around the globe, the dishes are flagship London cooking but transformed them into in a menu that is bold,
restaurant, Pollen innovative and modern. Located at the Waldorf Astoria
news
inspired by the exotic Cavalli
family. (cavalliclubdubai.com)
Street Social, in 2011. Dubai Palm Jumeirah (waldorfastoria.com/dubai), LAO
(intercontinental.com) has been exclusively designed for the property.
Restaurant
BUSHIDO BAHRAIN Zuma in Abu Dhabi
S
The island kingdom’s award- ince opening in Dubai International Financial Centre in 2009,
winning Japanese eatery has Japanese restaurant and lounge, Zuma has attracted a stream of
taken the bold step of appointing regular clientele and a host of awards. Now diners in the UAE
Bahraini woman Noor Murad as capital have the opportunity to experience the restaurant’s exquisite
development chef to help update cuisine, which includes a host of exemplary sushi, sashimi and robata
and add fusion to the menu. dishes, as Zuma has opened at The Galleria, Sowwah Square on Al
Chef Noor, who first worked at Marayah Island, Abu Dhabi.
Bushido during its Ramadan Zuma founder Rainer Becker had reportedly been eyeing a venue in Abu
transformation to Bushra says: Dhabi since 2009 and tasked interior designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu of
‘Born into a family with an English Studio Glitt with the challenge of creating a unique restaurant space utilising
mother and Bahraini father, I’ve the four core materials – stone, glass, wood and steel – that are evident in
always felt that I have a good all Zuma venues.
grasp on both Eastern and The expansion into Abu Dhabi is being led by Ajaz Sheikh, managing
Western cultures. This in turn has director for Zuma Middle East and Turkey and he has selected the line-up
made me very open to new for the Abu Dhabi restaurant, which includes general manager, Ilir Caushi,
concepts, ideas, people and executive chef, Reif Othman, who extends his current role running the Zuma
places.’ (Bushido.com.bh) Dubai kitchen, Pawel Kazanowski as head chef and world-beating bartender
Jimmy Barrat also expanding his role to become regional bar manager.

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Arrivals
IN SEASON
Darren Velvick, Chef Patron at the esteemed table 9 restaurant in Hilton
confidential
Dubai Creek is getting nostalgic over garlic
Kitchen
What I’m cooking with...
I love wild garlic, which is just starting butter with a twist of pepper and salt… ‘Wild garlic
to come into season in the UK now Lovely! In the restaurant I try to create
(April). It has a short season so it’s a vegetarian dishes with the wild garlic to
is so tender
crime for chefs not to use it. As it just showcase its flavour. now, full
comes into season it is full of flavour I love purple sprouting broccoli, of flavour
so for a chef there’s really not much to asparagus and nettles which are also
do apart from treat the ingredient with just starting to come into season in the and not too
the respect it deserves and cook it UK now. Again, lovely produce that woody and
nicely. Wild garlic should not be need very little doing to them when in its subtle
overpowered with too many other their prime.
flavours, just let it do its job and allow In Dubai I can basically get any flavour really
its natural flavour to dominate the dish. ingredient imported, however I try to adds a lovely
Wild garlic is so tender now, full of use local produce where possible but
mild garlicky
flavour and not too woody, and its it is quite limiting. I do believe things are
subtle flavour really adds a lovely starting to improve in the UAE and flavour to
mild garlicky flavour to pasta, rice farmers are starting to add more to the pasta, rice
and soup. range, which I find very exciting and
I tend to source the wild garlic from impressive in this heat.
and soup.’
the UK; it goes crazy in the spring
time. I remember as a child walking Who I’m using...
through our local forest and the whole I have a few great suppliers, but
floor would be covered with wild garlic Lootha is great for the special items
What’s in
and the smell was so strong. If only I from the UK and France.
knew what to do with it then… A Ingredients can be quite expensive
chef’s dream! from the high import costs from all
When at home I would just simply my suppliers, and I’m still trying to
recipe At its peak

substitute recipes with spinach and adjust to this.
use wild garlic, wilted down in a little Brown crab, cockles,
Darren’s for April halibut, Jersey Royals,
To make wild garlic risotto for six: Sweat off 6g leeks, morels, radishes,
finely chopped shallots in butter; once they are rhubarb, rocket, samphire,
nearly cooked add 400g risotto rice. Next sea trout, spinach, spring
introduce 600ml boiling vegetable stock, a ladle greens, spring onions,
at a time, stirring consistently. Cook for sprouting broccoli,
approximately 13 minutes adding stock watercress, wild garlic
throughout. For the last minute add a tbsp (25g)
of mascarpone cream, a knob of butter and 25g Also available
Interview by Zoe Rodgers
grated parmesan cheese. The texture should be Asparagus, blood oranges,

thick and creamy but the rice should have some bream (gilthead and red
bite. Check the seasoning. Finally add 100g sea), brown crab, celery,
roughly chopped wild garlic leaves and cook in herring, John Dory,
the risotto for approximately three minutes until mussels, oysters, scallops,
tender, then serve. spring lamb, veal

IN SEASON
Radishes
Pink, purple, red – whatever their outer shade, these small root vegetables are
cruncy and punchy on the inside, and fresher than spring itself, says Clarissa Hyman
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY; PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
RECIPES START ON PAGE 116

RADISH, CRAB, ORANGE
AND LIME SALAD
FOOD & FOOD

TRAVEL
& ARABIA
TRAVEL 21
21
RADISH, PEA, CUCUMBER
AND HERB LEAF SALAD
IN SEASON WITH TORN MOZZARELLA
Wit& wisdom
It is the presence of mustard oil in
radishes that gives them a pungent kick.
Radishes contain raphanol, which
promotes the emptying of the gall
bladder, hence they are helpful for
passing gallstones.
A ‘radish communist’ used to
describe someone who claimed
communist beliefs but was not really
committed to them – that is, a red
appearance but a white core.
A
re you sitting comfortably? Then, I’ll are not necessarily all they seem has Food historian Alan Davidson notes there are
begin. Once upon a time there was stayed with me. Maybe it’s because their a number of pictures and written references
a little Chinese boy who planted a beautiful, flushed fuchsia shading and to radishes in archeological findings; an
radish seed. It grew and grew until it was creamy white never really prepare you for account by the ancient Greek historian
the size of a ping-pong ball, then a rice bowl their peppery bite. They are, perhaps, the Herodotus suggests the slaves who built
and finally as big as the little boy himself. first introduction many children have to the pyramids were given rations of radishes,
He tugged and tugged at the leaves but gardening, since they are easy to cultivate onions and leeks. Mention of cultivation
couldn’t pull it up: one by one he asked his from seed and mature quickly, sometimes in China dates back a mere 2,000 years
mother, father, grandparents, sisters and in less than a month. Successive sowings by comparison, and by the 16th century,
brothers, the dog, cat and mice to help, will provide a constant supply throughout radishes were commonplace throughout
until at last they all pulled together and the the summer, although they must be lifted the New World, having been taken to the
enormous radish burst out of the ground. young. Gardener-cook Sarah Raven says Americas by the Spanish and Portuguese.
This popular fable is meant to teach the you don’t even need a garden to grow Radishes – Raphanus sativus – vary
virtues of mutual help in accomplishing them: simply sow them in plastic guttering greatly in colour and size: they are related
a task – although the first time I heard and place on a window ledge or doorstep. to turnips and to horseradish, hence their
it, I dreamt of being squashed flat by a The radish, a member of the Brassica peppery taste. We are most familiar with
terrifying, giant, rampaging radish. Well, I family, was probably first cultivated by the ‘table’ radishes, which have small, reddish-
was only six. But the thought that radishes ancient Egyptians, over 5,000 years ago. pinky-purple roots and crisp

STEAMED HERITAGE
RADISHES WITH MUSTARD
AND CHERVIL DRESSING IN SEASON
FOOD & FOOD

TRAVEL
& ARABIA
TRAVEL 23
RADISH MEZE
IN SEASON
Wit& wisdom
Peter Rabbit famously ate a
radish variety known as Long
Scarlet in the Beatrix Potter book.
In Oaxaca, Mexico, every 23
December – known as Night of
the Radishes – local craftsmen
carve impressive figures out of
giant radish specimens.
The word ‘radish’ comes from
the Latin word radix for root.
white flesh, and are at their best from or light-green exterior reveals pleasantly pods are juicy and snappy but with the
April to June. Hot, dry weather generally pungent, bright pink flesh, hence its name. same peppery bite as the root. Dorothy
makes for a spicier radish. In contrast, Growing radishes may be child’s play Hartley noted in Food in England (1954) that
hydroponically grown, year-round radishes but their taste is decidedly grown-up. The the pods make a good, lively pickle. As she
mostly taste bland and watery. French know how best to eat them: raw, lyrically described, ‘The clear green pods in
For flavour and texture, Sarah Raven with their perky green tops still on, slathered a dish of pellucid pickled onions make a jade
recommends that home gardeners seek with good butter and sprinkled with sea and pearl symphony that belies its potency.’
out the round Cherry Belle, which look salt, together with slices of fresh baguette Radishes can also be stir-fried, braised,
like fruit gobstoppers, although the more to temper their sharpness. And it is très steamed and roasted, although cooking
widely available French Breakfast have an snob to serve them as a pre-dinner nibble reduces some of their spiciness. Winter
interesting oblong shape. A winter varietal along with quail’s eggs and celery salt. radishes are generally too big to serve
that stores well is Black Spanish Round Although there is much to be said for whole, and have a coarser skin, so can
(though it is rarely seen in Spain), shaped the classic French approach, radishes do be peeled and cut into chips or slices, or
like a fat beetroot with rough, dark skin. pair well with either creamy or salty sheep’s grated. Daikon is used in a variety of ways
Even larger are some Asian radishes such milk cheeses as well as with citrus fruit and – in curries, as the basis for pickles, in
as the giant cylindrical white daikon, or nutty grains. They can also add a satisfying Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches and even
mooli, which can grow a foot in size and bit of crunch when finely chopped in a in Korean kimchi. Sliced wafer-thin, they are
have a fairly mild flavour. Rat’s Tail radishes potato or tuna salad. Translucent slices add delicious in clear noodle soups or in oriental
are grown for their edible seed pods. delicate grace to a green leaf salad. salads with a sesame dressing. If you run out
An unusual heirloom variety is the Every part of the radish is edible: small, of ideas, you could always teach yourself the
Watermelon radish (aka Chinese Red Meat fresh, homegrown leaves can make a art of Thai vegetable carving. Just don’t try it
or Beauty Heart): when cut, the white surprisingly good pesto, and the seed with one the size of the little Chinese boy’s.

Arrivals
DRINKS
FOOD & TRAVEL 25

Tortelli town
From the feasts, art and awe-inspiring architecture of the Renaissance to modern chefs
keeping its traditions alive, Italy’s Mantua has plenty to get stuck into, says Carla Capalbo
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANO SCATA

Below: chef Sandra
Martini champions
Mantuan cuisine from
her 16th-century kitchen.
Opposite: agnoli in
brodo at the renowned
Dal Pescatore
Left to right: bakeries (here

Avishai Teller and Haba) are a
focal point of the city’s
FOOD & TRAVEL 27
GOURMET TRAVELLER
MANTUA
W
hen I arrive in Mantua, it’s wrapped in a blanket of fog. Clockwise from top
Muted shades of terracotta and ochre from the city’s left: torta delle rose at
noble palazzi emerge in pools of light from lamps along its Panificio Freddi; try
winding, medieval streets. Sheltering under their arched porticoes, the local charcuterie
I take refuge in the buzzing Bar Venezia and order a glass of at a salumeria;
Palazzo Ducale’s
grape and a plate of local salami.
Hall of the Rivers;
A poster displays a Leonardo da Vinci portrait of Isabella d’Este, 16th-century ‘ideal
the city’s Renaissance ruler. Her marriage in 1490 to Francesco II city’ Sabbioneta;
Gonzaga, Marquess of Mantua, when she was just 16, heralded the Mantua’s colourful
city’s cultural golden age. Highly educated, the brilliant Isabella farmers’ market; an
came from the nearby city-state, Ferrara. In Mantua she grew into informal osteria on
one of Italy’s most influential and inspiring humanists: her patronage the main square; its
of the period’s cutting-edge artists, architects and musicians made local salami with
Mantua’s court – and banquets – the envy of Europe. mostarda; artisan
One Renaissance writer described a ‘meat and fish’ banquet for brew at the farmers’
market; Mantua’s
104 guests that Isabella attended in 1529 at her father’s palace in
duomo; Aquila Nigra’s
Ferrara. It featured 25 sugar sculptures depicting the trials of agnoli; duck at Dal
Hercules, and a list of courses that runs over five pages: 2,000 Pescatore and its
oysters, 25 stuffed peacocks, fried turbots and roasted goats, 125 dining room
eels, a dozen songbirds per person and enough animals, birds and
fish to fill a zoo, plus rare fruits and nuts, spices and sweetmeats.
There were theatrical and musical interludes, and after dinner guests
danced until dawn. This was entertaining on a grand scale.
The Gonzagas’ 500-room palace complex, Palazzo Ducale, is as
big as seven football pitches and dominates Piazza Sordello, the
city’s main square. It houses remarkable works by Mantegna and
Rubens, the court’s official painters, and by Pisanello and Giulio
Romano. The most famous room, and a mecca for art pilgrims, is
Mantegna’s ‘Camera degli Sposi’, an intimate chamber covered
completely in illusionistic frescoes depicting the artist’s
Travel information
Italy is one hour ahead of GMT. Currency is the euro. Mantua is situated
in the northern Lombardy region, 40km southwest of Verona. April
temperatures are mild, with an average high of 18°C and average low
of 7°C. The hottest month is July, with an average high of 28°C. The
city is a 45-minute train ride from Verona, or two hours from Milan.
GETTING THERE
Emirates (emirates.com) flies direct from Dubai to Milan Malpensa daily,
with a journey time of six hours 45 minutes.
Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) flies direct from Doha to Milan
Malpensa, with a journey time of six hours 25 minutes.
RESOURCES
Mantova Tourism (mantovatourism.it) is the city’s official tourist portal,
featuring itineraries on the city and its surrounding province.
FURTHER READING
The Art of Mantua: Power and Patronage in the Renaissance by
Barbara Furlotti and Guido Rebecchini (Getty Publications, $84.66).
Mantua’s history is inseparable from that of the Gonzagas, the family that
ruled from 1328 to 1708. This book covers different chapters in the
city’s life, and is filled with beautiful photographs and illustrations.

GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
Left to right: Nadia Santini and son Giovanni of Dal Pescatore; setting the scene at Il Cigno Trattoria dei Martini; pumpkins at Dal Pescatore
patrons, the Gonzagas. (In 2012 an earthquake damaged the

entrance but the room is expected to re-open by summer 2014.)
I’m staying in Palazzo Castiglioni, a magnificent 14th-century noble
palace whose windows look out across the cobbles of Piazza
Sordello to Palazzo Ducale and the cathedral’s baroque marble
façade. My suite could accommodate a modest banquet.
In the clear light of day, the small, walled city takes on a new
guise. Built on three islands in the Mincio river – a tributary of the
mighty Po – Mantua, or Mantova as the Italians call it, was originally
surrounded by water. Seen from the far bank, the city resembles a
crown, with crenelated towers and cupolas rising above its
encircling walls. These, and the wide natural moats, provided
efficient defences against marauding barbarians. The site’s strategic
position along the trade route that linked Italy with Germany enticed
civilizations from the Etruscans to the Romans to live there in
defiance of the malarial swamps upon which it was built.
Today, Mantua is the capital of the province of the same name,
and a Unesco World Heritage Site. The malaria’s long gone – though
nearby rice paddies still generate their share of summer mosquitoes
– and the city lives a staid provincial life in which most people cycle
rather than drive. Festivaletteratura, a literary festival held every
September, attracts world-class authors and plenty of tourists.
For those of us more interested in food, spring and autumn are
great times to visit. In spring, tender wild greens from around the
province find their way into every meal, while autumn is when the
pumpkins are in season for Mantua’s most iconic dish, tortelli di
zucca. Ask any Italian for these pasta cushions’ birthplace and
they’ll reply immediately: ‘Mantova!’. Here in Lombardy’s plains, and
across neighbouring Emilia-Romagna, egg pasta rules. It’s so yellow
it looks dyed: it’s not uncommon to enrich the dough with 20 or 30
yolks per kilo of flour (you can make it just fine with a mere handful,
though the texture won’t be as rich or elastic). As for the famous tortelli’s
filling, that too is open to interpretation, despite the ingredients being
limited to just pumpkin, with optional amaretto biscuit crumbs and
mostarda – a fruit conserve spiked with mustard oil.
‘Each village and family in Mantua province has its own way of
making tortelli,’ explains Vera Bini, chef at Aquila

Where to eat
Prices below are for three courses, excluding fine grapes. $59. Piazza Carlo d’Arco 1, 00 39
grape, unless otherwise stated. 0376 327101, ristoranteilcignomantova.com
La Cucina Stylish atmosphere for a fun, relaxed
Aquila Nigra A Michelin-starred, grown-up lunch at the big communal table. Daily special
restaurant near the main piazza that has a great pastas and mains. $38. Via Guglielmo Oberdan 17,
grape list. Just next door is sister Osteria la Porta 00 39 0376 1513735, lacucina-mantova.it
Accanto, a less formal alternative. $89. Vicolo La Locanda delle Grazie The best place to eat after
Bonacolsi 4, 00 39 0376 327180, aquilanigra.it taking a look around the Santuario della Beata
Bar Caravatti In the hub of historic Mantua, and Vergine Maria delle Grazie – a church dating from
perfect for breakfast – try the risini (rice cookies) 1399 in a small town about 8km from Mantua. This
– and aperitivo cocktails to be drunk at any hour. lively trattoria serves authentic Mantuan cuisine,
Via Broletto 16, 00 39 0376 327826 with ingredients sourced locally, and has
Dal Pescatore An hour’s drive west of Mantua, this welcoming hosts. Tasting menu $34. Via San Pio X
three-Michelin-star restaurant is a temple of food 2, Grazie, 00 39 0376 348038
and comfort. Tasting menu $232. Runate, Canneto Osteria da Pietro On the way to Lake Garda, stop
sull’Oglio, 00 39 0376 723001, dalpescatore.com in this village osteria with a garden terrace for
Il Cigno Trattoria dei Martini A few minutes’ walk terrific cooking by Fabiana Ferri. $74. Via Giovanni
from Piazza Sordello, this upmarket trattoria Chiassi 19, Castiglione delle Stiviere, 00 39 0376
focuses on beautifully sourced home cooking, with 673718, osteriadapietro.it
‘“Mantova has always been una terra di buongustai – a

land of epicures. Michelangelo drew tortelli on a pictogram
for his deaf cook to illustrate what he wanted for lunch.”’

Left to right:
Havana flickers
at night; fish
GOURMET TRAVELLER kebabs from
MANTUA Le Chansonnier.
Opposite,
clockwise
Left: Palazzo from left:
Ducale. Below: cult film hangout
nonna Bruna La Guarida
Santini at Dal restaurant;
Pescatore. Enrique Nunez,
Clockwise from top its owner;
right: Aquila Nigra;
its tortelli di zucca;
canal Lungorio IV
Novembre; Aquila
Nigra’s agnoli and
tortelli di zucca;
Piazza Sordello;
Rotonda di San
Lorenzo; pumpkins
ready for the pot;
egg pasta; Aquila
Nigra’s Vera Bini;
cutting the town’s
famous tortelli
Nigra, a fine, traditional restaurant near Palazzo Ducale. When I visit, Food glossary
she’s baking pumpkin for her filling. ‘Some leave out the amaretti but Anatra Duck
that hint of almond bitterness complements the sweet pumpkin and Asino/Somarina Donkey
the salty Grana Padano we grate on top,’ she says. And that’s Cotechino Sausage, served hot
what’s so great about Italian food: cooks, instead of cluttering Grana Padano A PDO cheese made
dishes with too many ingredients, keep each recipe focused on its in the Po valley
central flavours. Vera rolls out her sfoglia (pasta sheet) thin enough Luccio River pike
for the orange filling to show through, folding the pasta over Lumache Snails
tablespoonfuls of pumpkin paste and cutting it deftly into plump Rana Frog
squares. She boils them quickly then serves them in a shallow Saltarei Freshwater shrimp
bowl, with melted butter and a grating of cheese. Salumeria Delicatessen that
I’m feasting on pumpkin tortelli for lunch and dinner. They’re on specialises in charcuterie
every menu and it’s fascinating to see how each woman varies the Secondi Second or main courses
theme. Yes – each woman. For I’ve discovered that the best Sfoglia Pasta sheet from which
restaurants in Mantua are in the hands of female chefs. They cook noodles or tortelli are cut
in traditional – if lighter – ways: this is not the city for avant-garde Zucca Pumpkin
manipulations or food play. I’m not sure I’d want my tortelli
deconstructed, anyway. I like them just as they are: a comforting VERA BINI’S SBRISOLONA
serving of soul food that’s firmly rooted in Mantua’s cultural history. MANTOVANA DESSERT
‘Mantova has always been una terra di buongustai – a land of RECIPES START ON PAGE 116
epicures,’ a scholarly diner at the next table tells me proudly as
we discuss our primi piatti. ‘Michelangelo drew tortelli on a
pictogram he made for his deaf cook to illustrate what he wanted
for lunch.’ It was thought that pumpkin tortelli were a Renaissance
dish, but recent research pushes their roots back to the Middle
Ages, if not earlier.
Pasta here comes two ways: wet and dry. Thumbnail-sized agnoli
are stuffed with lightly spiced meat paste and served in bowls of
steaming meat or chicken broth, in brodo. For extra punch, try
agnoli in sorbir, where a splash of sparkling red grape is added to
the broth at the table – but make sure it’s good quality or the result
can be sour. Fettuccine noodles, ravioli and tortelli are mostly
presented ‘dry’ on their plates, with just a sauce or melted butter.
Other primi include the unusual rice dish riso alla pilota, whose
cooking style leaves the rice granular rather than creamy.
There are many types of fresh pasta at Panificio Freddi, a large,
lively bakery and pasta shop, which produces Mantua’s best
breads and cakes, including la torta di tagliatelle, bathed in liquor
and topped with sweet noodles and almonds. It also bakes a fine
version of Mantua’s favourite dessert, la torta sbrisolona. You’ll find
this flat, almond-studded cake in every bakery and on

GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
FOOD & TRAVEL 33

GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
‘Isabella d’Este was one of Italy’s most influential humanists: her patronage of the period’s
every menu; it’s best eaten with the hands by breaking off chunks, a lot like beef. The city’s aqueous origins are also reflected in some
like knobbly shortbread. And if pumpkin’s not your thing, fear not. of its key dishes, from frogs and pike to duck.
Mantua’s cuisine is mainly meat driven. The best place to buy seasonal vegetables and rub shoulders
Horses were venerated in courtly circles, as the magnificent Sala with the locals is the Saturday farmers’ market, set up along the
dei Cavalli reveals. Painted in the 1520s by Giulio Romano in narrow canal, Lungorio IV Novembre. It’s a great scene, with many
Palazzo Te, the Gonzagas’ pleasure palace on the other side of food artisans hawking their wares, from honey to home-cured
town, the lofty salon’s frescoes feature life-sized, full-body portraits salami. To learn how to cook like a Mantuan, Le Tamerici holds
of the family’s steeds. The other must-see room here is the frequent cooking classes in English and Italian from its mostarda-
Camera dei Giganti, in which careering 3D giants seem to be making workshop outside town. It also has a well-stocked shop for
bringing the whole building down on our heads. preserves and other quality foods.
Despite this reverence for their four-legged friends, the Italians Il Cigno restaurant is decorated with 20th-century art and has a
are less sentimental about animals than some nations. So, if you’re pretty garden for summer dining. Here the modest Sandra Martini
squeamish, steer clear of another Mantuan favourite, brasato di cooks wonderful, pared-down Mantuan food from her 16th-century
somarina or stracotto d’asino, otherwise known as stewed donkey. kitchen. A warm rabbit salad is livened up with pistachios, pine
It’s cooked in a hearty grape sauce, served with polenta and tastes nuts, redcurrants and juniper berries. Her large pumpkin tortello
comes alone, like a roomy cushion, and contrasts the almond’s
Where to shop bitterness with the faint piquancy of homemade apple mostarda.
A fine-boned shoulder of Apennine kid is cooked in butter and
Gastronomia Il Tagliere This small shop stocks the best assortment of served with artichokes. ‘We want to maintain Mantua’s food culture,’
authentic artisan cheeses and salamis, with some ready-cooked foods explains her dapper husband, Gaetano, as he pours the grape.
and all the trimmings. Perfect for picnics and presents. Via Principe ‘There’s a risk these ancient recipes will die out if diners keep
Amedeo 22, 00 39 0376 321200, iltaglieremantova.com clamouring for fast food and modern dishes.’
La Maison du Chocolat et… A fantastic gelato and chocolate shop. A short drive from Mantua – and a must for lovers of high
Indulge. Via Oberdan 8, 00 39 0376 321081 gastronomy – is Ristorante dal Pescatore, an elegant country
Panificio Freddi Breads, pastas, cakes: this is where the locals shop. restaurant whose chef, Nadia Santini, was lauded as World’s Best
Don’t miss the sbrisolona crumb cake – a Mantuan speciality. Female Chef in 2013 at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards.
Piazza Cavallotti 7, 00 39 0376 321418, panificiofreddi.it Nadia and her family also hold the Italian record for

cutting-edge artists, architects and musicians made Mantua’s court the envy of Europe’
FOOD & TRAVEL 35

GOURMET TRAVELLER
MANTUA
Below: Mantua’s river Mincio flows

into the famous Po, south of the city.
Opposite, clockwise from top: Bar
Caravatti; Gastronomia Il Tagliere;
room at Palazzo Castiglioni
Where to stay
Broletto Very centrally located, recently refurbished three-star,
close to the shops and cafés. Doubles from $123. Via Accademia 1,
00 39 0376 326784, hotelbroletto.com
Casa Museo Palazzo Valenti Gonzaga This historic palazzo offers
three B&B suites with original frescoes and antique furnishings.
Sleep in the room of a princess or a cardinal. Doubles from $171.
Via Pietro Frattini 7, 00 39 0376 364524, valentigonzaga.com
Casa Poli Modern-style, four-star hotel in the city centre, halfway
between the two big Palazzi, Ducale and Te. Doubles from $161.
Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 32, 00 39 0376 288170, hotelcasapoli.it
Hotel Rechigi If you crave a design hotel with modern art, this four-
star in the city centre is your best bet. Doubles from $163. Via Calvi
Pietro Fortunato 30, 00 39 0376 320781, rechigi.com
Palazzo Arrivabene A handsome 15th-century private palazzo
offering three spacious rooms. Doubles from $163. Via Fratelli
Bandiera 20, 00 39 0376 328685, palazzoarrivabene.net
Palazzo Castiglioni Just five rooms but my they’re grand. Period
furnishings and piazza views. Doubles from $217. Piazza Sordello
12, 00 39 0348 8034576, palazzocastiglionimantova.com
36 FOOD & TRAVEL

Main: sugar cane
workers in the Pinar
del Rio region, west of
Havana; mangos are GOURMET TRAVELLER
harvested; a worker at TICINO
Alamar Agroponico;
farms in the
‘Mantua was originally surrounded by water. Seen from the far bank, the city resembles
a crown, with crenelated towers and cupolas rising above its encircling walls’
three Michelin stars: they’ve had them since 1996.

Nadia, who is now flanked in the kitchen by her
37-year old son Giovanni, has a unique voice in
Italian food.
‘Cooking is like art, it stirs the emotions,’ she says
as we walk through her vegetable patch to feed the
geese at the bottom of the garden. ‘Like poetry and
music, it creates a harmony of soul and mind. I grew
up on a farm and know that who we are depends on
what we eat: good, energy-giving food matters.’
A modern-day humanist, Nadia’s cooking keeps
close to its natural sources. The elegant dining
rooms seat just 26 and are surrounded by gardens
– so the dishes never lose their just-picked, just-
cooked freshness. Nadia has a personal way with
herbs: she adds a pinch of chopped lemon zest and
rosemary to lentil soup to make it more digestible.
Pan-roasted native duck breast is lifted with a dusting
of raw rosemary and lemon verbena; it’s served with
warm fruit mostarda and traditional aged balsamic
vinegar. Pasta is handmade by Giovanni, whose
brother, Alberto, now runs the dining room with their
father, Antonio.
FOOD & TRAVEL 37

GOURMET TRAVELLER
TICINO
Main: sugar cane workers in the Pinar del Rio region, west of Havana; mangos are harvested; a worker at Alamar Agroponico; farms in the
‘If pumpkin’s not your thing, fear not. Mantua’s cuisine is mainly meat driven. Its aqueous
origins are also reflected in some of its key ingredients, from frogs and pike to duck’
Don’t miss
‘The handover to the younger generation is key in Italy’s restaurants Boat trip on the Mincio river This waterway flows from Lake Garda
if we want to give our children a chance,’ says Antonio. ‘Architecture through Mantua towards the Po and the sea, and is a wild bird and
and art may be frozen in time but our culinary culture needs to be nature sanctuary. Boat cruises leave from Grazie, near Mantua, and a
revitalised – in keeping with tradition – if it’s to survive.’ Such an two-hour trip costs $13. Grazie, 00 39 0376 349292, fiumemincio.it
approach bodes well for the future of one of the most delicious, Cooking lessons at Le Tamerici This artisan company produces
beautiful and unspoiled parts of Italy. Mantua’s traditionalism is its mostarda from many fruits and vegetables and offers Mantuan cooking
best selling point – go there and taste for yourself the authentic, classes in English and Italian. Via Romana Zuccona 208, San Biagio di
satisfying soul food that generations of women have been preparing Bagnolo, 00 39 0376 253371, letamericisrl.com
with love from Isabella d’Este’s time to the present day. Sabbioneta Situated 30km south-west of Mantua, this magnificent
16th-century ‘ideal city’ was the brainchild of Vespasiano Gonzaga
Carla Capalbo and Stefano Scatà were both guests of Mantova Colonna and is today a Unesco World Heritage Site. Its splendid
Tourism (mantovatourism.it). architecture includes the first purpose-built theatre of the modern world.
Above: Mincio Natural Park is a green oasis near Mantua. Below: fishermen ply their trade on the Mincio river, and show off one of their carp
38 FOOD & TRAVEL

A small hotel
with a big heart
At the Palace Boutique hotel, located in the centre of the art and
culture scene in Bahrain, we believe that small is beautiful. We believe
that our guests deserve the personalized service and attention to
detail that only a small hotel can offer. We are proud of our
award-winning cuisine and the warmth of our greeting for our guests.
Come experience the memories we create.
FOOD FOCUS
Delicate
DESIRES For sweet bites that are bound to impress, try this light, luxurious
patisserie selection – small yet big on flavour. Serve your favourites
after dinner or spread out for an afternoon tea with an exclusive edge
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES
PASSION FRUIT
AND RASPBERRY
MILLEFEUILLES
40
22 FOOD && TRAVEL
FOOD TRAVEL
Arrivals
DRINKS
RASPBERRY AND MANGO SWIRL MERINGUES
FOOD & FOOD

TRAVEL
& ARABIA
TRAVEL 41
41
SALTED CARAMEL
AND HAZELNUT
CHEESECAKES

IN SEASON
APRICOT, WHITE
CHOCOLATE
AND HAZELNUT
AND HAZELNUT
AND HAZELNUT
F&T WINE
MATCH Ripe
and round
American viognier
( McManis Family
Vineyards, 2011)
PISTACHIO AND WHITE

CHOCOLATE FRANGIPANE
BARQUETTES
FRASIER WITH ORANGE
Delicate
CHILLI
CHOCOLATE
ALMOND TARTS
ESPRESSO SUCCES
Delicate
MINI ROSE ECLAIRS

EGGS FLORENTINE EGGS BENEDICT
S U N DAY B E ST
A lazy brunch or lunch of pure indulgence adds a wow factor to the weekend. Marcus Verberne,
head chef of Roast at London’s Borough Market, picks some of the best for you to try this Easter
EGGS ROYAL LOBSTER BENEDICT
VIETNAMESE CELLOPHANE NOODLE

SALAD WITH SWEET AND SOUR DRESSING
F&T WINE MATCH Subtly sweet, crisp
German riesling (eg 2012 Dr L, Loosen Brothers)
GRILLED KIPPERS WITH LEMON BUTTER

WORLD FOOD
SOUTH INDIAN RICE STICKS WITH VEGETABLES

F&T WINE MATCH Tangy, slightly spicy Slovenian
white (eg 2012 Tesco Finest Sauvignon Blanc/Furmint)
FOOD & TRAVEL 47

BOROUGH BURGER
CHARGRILLED 1KG T-BONE STEAK WITH
APPLE-BATTERED ONION RINGS
FOOD FOR FRIENDS

BREADED VEAL CUTLET WITH A FRIED
DUCK’S EGG, ANCHOVIES AND CAPERS
FOOD FOR FRIENDS RECIPE MODIFIED*
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS

TAKEN FROM ROAST BY MARCUS
VERBERNE, PHOTOGRAPHY BY LARA
HOLMES (ABSOLUTE PRESS, $41).

ANCHOVY-RUBBED, HAY-BAKED LEG OF MUTTON
WITH PARSLEY AND CAPER SAUCE
FOOD FOR FRIENDS

EAST Brought up in a
traditional Syrian
home, chef Sharon
Salloum has been
bringing Middle
Eastern cuisine to a
western audience at
her Sydney restaurant
Almond Bar. Here she
to
shows us how to add
an inspired modern
twist to recipes
handed down through
the generations
WEST
SPAGHETTI COOKED IN MILK
T
POTATO AND ARISH BALLS
RECIPES START ON PAGE 116 WORLD FOOD
FOOD
FOOD && TRAVEL
TRAVEL 53
23
MIDDLE EASTERN LAMB DUMPLINGS
WORLD FOOD
SCALLOPS AND BASTURMA DRIZZLED

WITH POMEGRANATE BUTTER
FOOD &FOOD & TRAVEL

TRAVEL ARABIA 55
IN SEASON
RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS

TAKEN FROM ALMOND BAR
ROASTED BEEF PATTIES AND POTATOES BY SHARON SALLOUM,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB PALMER
RECIPES START ON PAGE 116 (JACQUI SMALL, $41).
WORLD FOOD
SHREDDED PASTRY WITH
CHOCOLATE CREAM

FLOWER POWER
Spring is on its
Clockwise from right:
panda on patrol. Help
care for these magical
creatures as part of
a trip around China,
way, with buds taking in the ancient
bursting into life walled city of Xi’an
and the Lijiang river
and gardens
starting to show
off their freshest
colour palettes.
Issy Croker
rounds up the
best flower-
themed breaks
to celebrate the
season, from
the Cotswolds
to Catalonia
1
BITE OF THE CHERRY, USA
Swap April showers for cherry blossom along the east coast of the
States, where the pretty petals fall like confetti – a spectacular
spring spectacle without heading all the way to Japan, the home of
the cherry blossom tree. Start in New York, where Brooklyn Botanic
Photography by Antonio M Rosario; Assessorato Turismo Regione Siciliana; Authentic Adventures; © NBTC
Garden (bbg.org) has over 200 cherry trees from 42 Asian species.
Philadephia’s Subaru Cherry Blossom Festival (subarucherryblossom.
org) runs 2-13 April, while Washington DC’s festival runs until 13 April
1
(nationalcherryblossomfestival.org), celebrating the 1912 gift of 3,000
cherry trees from the Mayor of Tokyo.
2
RUNNING RIOT, SICILY
It’s not often that artists spend days lovingly crafting their work,
only for it to be destroyed. However, every third week in May, the
Infiorata di Noto in the baroque city of Noto sees just that. Locals and
visitors alike take over Via Nicolaci, creating colourful floral mosaics
that look like a procession of stained-glass windows. The show comes
to an abrupt end as delighted children are invited to run riot over the
displays in an age-old tradition symbolising growth and renewal.
3
TULIP MANIA, NETHERLANDS
It would be a cardinal sin to visit the Netherlands in April
without seeing the world’s largest tulip garden. Ripe with over
7 million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, Keukenhof is a feast for the
3
eyes and the nose. To add a little Dutch magic to your garden you can
even order bulbs to be delivered in the autumn (keukenhof.nl). Branch
out from here by car on the Bollenstreek Route. At its peak, this
series of roads leads you from Naaldwijk to Haarlem via the densest
concentration of flower fields in bloom. Don’t miss the Bulbflower
4
Parade (30 April to 4 May, bloemencorso-bollenstreek.nl), a procession
of floral floats that makes this 40km trip in exuberant style.
4
ISLAND HOPPING, GUERNSEY
Perfect for families, the annual Floral Guernsey Spring
Festival takes place this year from 26 April to 4 May. Featuring
open gardens, heritage walks, Tiny Tots planting workshops and a
special Children’s Story Garden, there will be something for everyone
at this vibrant celebration of island flora. floralguernsey.co.uk

Left: spring into
the season by
immersing yourself
in nature’s explosion
of colours
SPRINGBREAKS
SPRING BREAKS
5
FLORAL FIESTA, SPAIN
If you were thinking about visiting Córdoba, best to
go in April or May, when the days will be charged with
celebration. Thousands flock to this Andalusian city for
festivals like La Batalla de las Flores (Battle of the Flowers),
which takes place on the last Sunday in April. The ‘battle’
consists of floats decorated with paper blooms, from which
its passengers douse the crowds in bucketloads of carnation
petals. The event is closely followed in mid-May by the Patio
contests. Opening their wrought iron gates up to the public
since 1918, the locals reveal their traditional courtyards,
festooned with mosaics, fountains and floral displays. A trip
will be sure to make you yearn for a Mediterranean patio of
your own. english.turismodecordoba.org
6
6
GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT, SPAIN
For some chefs, good old black pepper just isn’t enough.
Sit down for a meal at La Calèndula in Girona (pictured,
lacalendula.net), where Iolanda Bustos uses wild herbs and flowers
in every dish. Hibiscus, calendula (marigold) and rose are all on the
menu, so expect your palate to be delighted by dishes such as herb
and mixed flower salad served with salmon and balsamic vinegar.
Girona itself will be swaddled by the annual Temps de Flors
‘Flower Season’ festival from 10-18 May (gironatempsdeflors.net).
The heritage of this Catalan city comes to life as flowers and art
take over squares, buildings and monuments. Over in the UK,
2
Pascal Aussignac is another chef who indulges his love of flowers,
at Club Gascon in London’s Smithfield. The Michelin-starred
man from southwest France creates such botanically inspired
7
dishes as primavera tulips and gladiola petals. clubgascon.com
7
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE, MALTA
Vibrant spreads of wild flowers crop up amid the dramatic
cliffs, sunken valleys and unusual rock formations of Gozo
island, Malta. Authentic Adventures runs week-long treks with
flower experts who take you to ancient temples, fortifications
used by the Knights of St John and caves along the way. Seven
nights from $1,762pp, including most meals and transfers, but
not flights. authenticadventures.co.uk

Right: get your
inspiration from
9
spring’s bloom, be
it via flower
arranging, trekking
or following in
the footsteps of
Wordsworth and
Van Gogh
‘Staying in the 16th-century house is

the best way to enjoy Gravetye, with its
abundance of azaleas and daffodils’ 8
8
ENGLISH GARDEN, WEST SUSSEX, UK
Father of the English flower garden, William Robinson left a
fine legacy at Gravetye Manor (above, right, gravetyemanor.
co.uk), where the borders flourish over 100 years on. Staying in
the 16th-century house is the best way to enjoy the estate with its
April and May colour, thanks to the abundance of azaleas in the
Flower Garden and thousands of daffodils in the Wild Garden.
When tulips arrive they take centre stage, set off by euphorbias,
forget-me-nots, lupins and alliums. Nearby, visit gardens like
Wakehurst Place, Borde Hill and Pashley Manor, with its tulip
festival and bluebell walk; take a flower-arranging course at The
10
Sussex Flower School (above, thesussexflowerschool.co.uk); or
ride the classic Bluebell Railway (bluebell-railway.co.uk).
9 11
HIMALAYAN HEAVEN, NEPAL
You’re not quite climbing Everest, but if you are inspired
by nature in bloom then the Himalayas put on a dazzling
display at this time of year. The mountains boast the greatest
diversity of rhododendron species in the world, ranging from
lively reds through to pinks and whites, and exploring the flower-
filled trails is a rare and unforgettable experience. An 11-day
Annapurna Trek is great for beginners – a route that leads you
through friendly Hindu villages and oak and rhododendron
forests. You’ll be walking between campsites, leaving plenty of
time to take in the stunning landscapes across terraced fields
with a backdrop of the imposing Annapurna peaks. In contrast
with nature, the trip also gives you the chance of a short stay in
the Nepalese capital, Kathmandu. From $1,731pp departing
until 20 April, including camping, meals and transport/transfers.
Excludes international flights. worldexpeditions.com

13
SPRING BREAKS
10
DANCING DAFFODILS, CUMBRIA, UK
‘I wandered lonely as a cloud, That floats on high o’er
vales and hills, When all at once I saw a crowd, A host
of golden daffodils’ – whether you go walking in solitude or with
the family in tow, be sure to make like Wordsworth and discover
the Lake District’s bountiful offering of golden-faced flowers.
Start your day with a visit to Wordsworth House and Garden, the
poet’s former home, before discovering fine Georgian buildings
in his hometown, Cockermouth, and more of the well-trodden
paths of the Cumbrian countryside. nationaltrust.org.uk
11
POP TO THE PELOPONNESE, GREECE
The Peloponnese combines archaeological sites with
splendid hill walking and rugged coastal landscapes. In
spring, its wild flowers put on a fine display, with anemones and
orchids contrasting with ancient olive groves and pine-shaded
paths. New Experience Holidays offers self-guided seven-day
trips to the outer Mani peninsula covering coastal merchants’
routes, gorge and hill walking and mountain trails. You walk from
village to village mostly following the 1,000-year-old mule paths
called kalderimis. Package from $1,040 includes accommodation
and daily baggage transfers. newex.co.uk
14 12
NATIONAL TREASURE, COTSWOLDS, UK
Gloucestershire is also perfect for an afternoon
ramble. Take yourself over to Batsford Arboretum in
the Cotswolds, which holds one of the largest private collections
of trees in the UK, as well as the National Collection of Japanese
flowering cherries. Take a walk along the fresh-scented trails and
marvel at the oaks, cherries and backdrop of beautiful magnolia
cultivars. If you’re inspired by what you find on the 23-hectare
estate, the well-stocked plant centre offers myriad herbaceous
plants, shrubs, fruit and ornamental trees, as well as imported
Mediterranean species. batsarb.co.uk
13
SPANISH ORANGES, MALLORCA
Winding its way from the historic town of Palma to
the valley of Sóller, the Orange Blossom Express is
Mallorca’s answer to the Bluebell Railway. This vintage tram
has been making its 27km commute through the Tramuntana
mountains since 1912. For the budding photographer, the snow-
like falling of vibrant orange blossom is an opportunity not to be
missed. Once you have been chugged merrily into Sóller, be sure
Photography by Nicola Croom/WE; Thomson;
© Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent
to visit the botanic garden before winding your way back down
the orange groves and into Palma. Thomson offers a one-day
excursion that includes the tram for $96pp. thomson.co.uk
14
FOLLOW THE VAN, LONDON, UK
Van Gogh’s Sunflowers are popping up in London
again. The National Gallery already holds one from the
van Gogh Foundation)
series of five, but will now be joined briefly by a second from the
Netherlands – so you can enjoy them side by side for the first time
in 65 years. The paintings were originally intended for Paul
Gauguin’s bedroom, when the artists worked together in the South
of France. Free, until 27 April. nationalgallery.org.uk

16
Right: from Monet’s
Japanese garden to
the poppy fields of
SPRING BREAKS Umbria, take your
lead from nature
this spring
15
BALKAN BLOOMS, SLOVENIA
Do you know your Siberian iris from your purple colt’s
foot, your erect clematis from your pink cinquefoil?
Budding botanists will love Slovenia’s Julian Mountains, where
spring brings myriad blooming flowers. Naturetrek runs an
eight-day Flowers of Lake Bohinj & the Julian Alps trip, which
leads you on daily ambles around alpine, forest and meadow
habitats in search of birds, butterflies and plant species. From
$1,881 excluding flights, 19-26 June. naturetrek.co.uk
16
GOOD IMPRESSION, FRANCE
Does life imitate art? Or art imitate life? You’ll find
out on a two-centre Monet-inspired break in France.
Firstly, forget the great outdoors and head to Paris and the Musée
de l’Orangerie, to stroke your chin in front of Claude Monet’s
famous depiction of water lilies, Les Nymphéas. Then, suitably
impressed, travel to Giverny, 80km northwest. It’s home to
the great man’s flower-strewn pink house, swaddled by divine
grounds embracing two gardens: Clos Normand, a riot of flowers,
and, more importantly for your research, a Japanese-inspired
water garden that Monet constructed in 1893. Alongside its
famous wooden bridge frescoed with wisteria, weeping willows
and bamboo woods, it boasts the fabulous nymphaea that bloom
throughout the summer. It was the first time a painter had
crafted his natural subject to this extent, before immortalising
it on canvas – and it continued to be an inspiration for over 20 ‘You’ll know you’re approaching
years; two decades of art imitating life. fondation-monet.com
17
Morocco’s Festival of Roses long
COMING UP ROSES, MOROCCO before you arrive in El-Kelaâ
Follow your nose. Quite literally. You’ll know you’re
M’Gouna – its flowering hedgerows
approaching Morocco’s Festival of Roses, a celebration
of the local sweet-scented harvest, long before you arrive in El- provide an intoxicating scent’
Kelaâ M’Gouna. Its flowering hedgerows provide an intoxicating
scent, belonging to the Persian rose – also known as the cabbage
Photography by © Fondation Claude Monet, Giverny; Relais & Châteaux/

rose, though that slightly dilutes the magic. It’s usually held in
Yves Duronsay; Joe Lord, Archant, Richmond; Le Bois des Moutiers

the first two weeks of May, but around the Dadès Valley – dubbed
‘the Valley of the Roses’ – nature calls the shots, and the timing of
the knees-up depends on the harvest. Keep the floral theme alive
at your choice of accommodation. The palm- and almond tree-
studded gardens of kasbah-turned-luxury-hotel Dar Ahlam, in
the nearby oasis of Skoura, offer shade from the midday sun. And
an hour in its hammam will have you emerging smelling pretty as
an almond blossom... maisondesreves.com
18
DYNAMIC DUO, FRANCE
I say Jekyll, you say… Lutyens. It was a partnership of
visionaries – architect Sir Edwin Lutyens and garden
designer Gertrude Jekyll together created some truly stunning
properties. Considered by many as their greatest collaboration,
Le Bois des Moutiers in Varengeville-sur-Mer, Normandy, hosts
the spring flowering of species from blue azaleas to andromedas
from March to May. Situated near the port of Dieppe, the house
is incredibly easy to get to, so there is no excuse not to visit this
‘lovechild’ of the wonderful duo (boisdesmoutiers.com).

18
ACTIVE TRAVELLER
Right: hunting
for Lionfish is
encouraged on this
trip. Below, left to
right: Iguazu Falls;
favela kids; Vitória,
Brazil, one of the
volunteering bases
19
19
URBAN OASIS, LONDON, UK
Walk into Petersham Nurseries and it will be hard to
believe you’re in the Big Smoke. Tucked away from
the hustle and bustle, Richmond’s hidden gem is a lesson in being
in touch with nature. Particularly the restaurant, whose dishes
are assembled with ingredients from the kitchen garden – like
nasturtium flowers for a salad or ripe quinces to be served with
a game bird. Or just pop in for a stroll around, a slice of cake from
the tearoom or an antique from the shop. petershamnurseries.com
20
POPPY APPEAL, ITALY
Think of poppies and you’d be forgiven if Italy wasn’t
the first place to spring to mind. However, the rolling
17
hills of Umbria are a wonderful host to the iconic flowers. Carpets
of poppies exist peacefully alongside narcissi, yellow tulips and
rare orchids. Ramble through the technicoloured fields on ATG
Oxford’s Flowers of Umbria tour (18-25 May), on which you
will be led to medieval towns, including the walled Norcia in the
valley of Monti Sibillini. Build up a healthy appetite for the local
truffles, meats and salamis, as well as prized grapes from Spoleto
and Orvieto. From $4,022pp, including hotels, meals, transfers
and guided tours. Excludes flights. atg-oxford.co.uk
Photography by Hands Up Holidays; Belize National Tourist Board; tional
FOOD & TRAVEL 63

MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA ASIA CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
COOKING
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA AUSTRALASIA MIDDLE EAST
NORTH AMERICA ASIA MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA AUSTRALASIA
AUSTRALASIA NORTH AMERICA NORTH AMERICA ASIA MIDDLE
ASIA MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA AUSTRALASIA MIDDLE EAST
all over the world

MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA ASIA CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
CENTRAL AND
More and more,SOUTH
our holidaysAMERICA
embrace the localAUSTRALASIA MIDDLE
food scene. But if you really want to EAST
MIDDLE EAST
immerse AND
yourself AFRICA
in the ASIAwhat
regional cuisine, CENTRAL AND
better way than SOUTH
by taking AMERICA
a cookery
AUSTRALASIA NORTH
course and coming AMERICA
away armed NORTH
with true insider AMERICA
knowledge. In the first ASIA
of a three-MIDDLE
ASIA MIDDLE EAST
part series, we profile AND AFRICA
50 of the best cookeryCENTRAL
schools outsideAND
Europe.SOUTH
Read on to AMERICA
find
CENTRALthe best classes – and holidays – from Peru to Jordan, from Thailand to Tasmania… EAST
AND SOUTH AMERICA AUSTRALASIA MIDDLE
FOOD & TRAVEL 65

MIDDLE EAST AND AFRICA
cookery schools
FRUI MARRAKECH, MOROCCO
Waking up to breakfast on a riad rooftop, with the distant call to
prayer, Marrakech is the place to enliven your senses. Surprises
are instore too as creative holiday company Frui brings you a
fantastic school led by chef Mahacine, who guides you through
Moroccan salads, tagines, couscous and desserts in an olive-tree
courtyard. A four-day gastronomic exploration of the country’s
cuisine will also give you an introduction to Berber whisky
(actually a tongue-in-cheek name for the ever-present mint
tea, a national obsession usually served with sweet pastries).
Learning how to prepare it will be key, particularly for relaxing
after packed days spent diving in and out of markets, spice shops,
hammams and henna-tattoo parlours – all with an expert guide
to ensure you’re back safely in time for tea. frui.co.uk
REUBEN’S, FRANSCHHOEK, SOUTH AFRICA

Few people are as passionate about South African food as
Reuben Riffel – and when taking a trip through the dramatic
landscapes of Franschhoek, a stop-off at the chef’s eponymous
restaurant is an absolute must. Take your experience to the next
level by signing up for one of his culinary weekends, where you’ll
learn to cook signature dishes, attend local drinks and chocolate
tastings, and experience a braai (barbecue) – as well as enjoy a
four-course dinner in his restaurant, naturally. reubens.co.za
HOLIDAY ON THE MENU, JORDAN

Jordanian food is deceptively fresh and simple. The correct
balance of flavours, textures, timing and spicing demands skill
and expertise, some of which you are bound to acquire during
this seven-night trip. The menus match the glorious setting of
Petra, the main base, and have an equally timeless allure: green
wheat soup, aubergine dip, dried fava beans in oil, pan-roasted
chicken, milk and pastry pudding are all likely to be included
in the five cooking sessions. The week includes visits to
Words by Clarissa Hyman and Alicia Miller. Jordan photography by Martin Thompson
markets, farms and orchards, plus time to explore the Rose City,
float in the Dead Sea and visit Mount Nebo from which Moses
viewed the ‘Promised Land’. holidayonthemenu.com
DAR LES CIGOGNES, MARRAKECH, MOROCCO

Flexibility is a key feature of any good cookery school – a
quality that allows students of different abilities, skill levels or
motivations to get the most out of the experience – and this is the
main draw at Dar Les Cigognes. Simply accompany the chef to
the market and return to watch dadas (traditional female cooks)
sculpt sliver-thin filo pastry sheets into elaborate desserts; or
get involved in every level of the process yourself, whether it’s
preparing tagine or making yoghurt. sanssoucicollection.com
COOKING THE KAROO, SOUTH AFRICA

Clockwise from top: cooking in Jordan; food from The Karoo may be a semidesert region in South Africa’s heart,
Reuben’s and its chef, Reuben Riffel; South African but it’s certainly not dry when it comes to good eating. This
vines; Karoo school; a church in Franschhoek
week-long course is based in Prince Albert, a village at the foot
of the Swartberg Pass dotted with Cape Dutch, Karoo Victorian
and Georgian buildings. Stay in luxurious cottages and enjoy a
trip packed with cookery lessons and vineyard, farm and market
tours. It includes jam baking on a fig farm, bread- and cheese-
making along with picnics and braai plus classes on cooking
famous Karoo lamb, venison and one-pot dishes. There’ll also
be forays into once-isolated valley communities, and talks on
conservation, ecology and geology. epitourean.com
66 FOOD & TRAVEL

Clockwise from below: take a cookery
course in north Africa as part of a gourmet
trip and savour the stalls and souks of
Marrakech; spices and tagines; work up an
appetite in Petra; at the riad
FOOD & TRAVEL 67

AUSTRALASIA
cookery schools
‘From the
moment
you arrive at
Tasmania’s
Agrarian Kitchen,
you’ll be
entranced; within
the hour you’ll
be devising ways
to replicate this
bucolic culinary
paradise’
Above: Sydney
seafood school;
THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA
by the beach
From the moment you arrive at The Agrarian Kitchen, you’ll in Melbourne.
be entranced; within the hour you’ll be devising ways in which Right: Tasmanian
you could replicate this bucolic culinary paradise for yourself. coast
Former food editor Rodney Dunn migrated to Tasmania
from Sydney in 2007 to create his dream ‘paddock to plate’
sustainable farm – he launched a cookery school here in 2009,
and it’s been booked solid almost ever since. Operating out of a
19th-century schoolhouse, classes contain just nine students and
most kick off with a foray to pick the ripest and plumpest from
the school’s gardens (which even include a herbal tea section).
While the most popular class, The Agrarian Experience, focuses
on cooking seasonally, using homegrown and foraged produce,
others specialise in preserving, brewing, cooking with fire and
meats. theagrariankitchen.com
AKAROA COOKING SCHOOL, AKAROA, NEW ZEALAND

A waterside edge in the heart of an ancient volcano – not the
first place you’d expect to find a cookery school, perhaps, but
certainly a spectacular one. And Akaroa Cooking School’s
magnificent setting – by the wharf in a charming colonial South
Island centre of the same name – is just one part of the draw of
this vibrant venue (albeit a big one). Local, seasonal produce
with as much punch as the view is put to use in dishes ranging
from smoked fish to fragrant Thai curries, delicate canapés to
slow-cooked beef casserole. akaroacooking.co.nz
SYDNEY SEAFOOD SCHOOL, AUSTRALIA

Australia’s leading cookery school is a must-stop for anyone
visiting the capital. Established in 1989 in the vast working fish
market, it was originally designed to encourage a demand for
then unfamiliar catch such as squid, red mullet and octopus.
Since then the scope of the classes has widened hugely and they
now accommodate a wide range of skill levels and subjects –
all focused around fish and shellfish – and the venue has been
remodelled into a state-of-the-art auditorium and practical
kitchen. Note, however, classes can be large (up to 50 people)
but after the keynote demonstration, the second half divides
pupils into hands-on cooking groups of five. Seafood Barbecue
is probably the most popular class, but you can also learn to
whip up a superb chilli crab, ceviche and paella to dazzle the
most demanding Dame Edna. Check the calendar, as many of
Australia’s top chefs lead guest classes. sydneyfishmarket.com.au

Below: perfect a
crab salad
at the Sydney
Seafood School
CATHIE’S CUISINE, HAWKE’S BAY, NEW ZEALAND

With around 35 vineyards in easy reach, a weekend at Hawthorne
House offers culinary respite from grape tasting your way
around Hawke’s Bay. There are four luxurious en-suite rooms in
the Edwardian villa set in a beautiful garden so you only have to
stagger a short distance to the kitchen. And stagger you probably
will after one of Cathie Hamilton’s champion breakfasts that
includes homemade muffins, homegrown fruits, their own
free-range eggs and artisan bacon. It’s hands-on after that, with
guests divided into lunch and dinner teams. Classes are small
and can be structured for either beginners or more skilled cooks.
Menus vary but the recipes have been devised to use local and
New Zealand produce wherever possible. cathiescuisine.co.nz
SAVOUR CHOCOLATE & PATISSERIE SCHOOL,

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
The flag for the trendy Australian culinary scene is flown by
hip Melbourne, but when it comes to food, the city is blazing a
trail in more than just its cutting-edge restaurants and bars. It’s
also home to the first and only school in the South Pacific to
specialise in chocolate and patisserie. There are five courses on
macarons alone; classes cater for every skill level, from learning
how to temper all the way up to creating chocolate showpieces fit
for international competition. savourschool.com.au
Photography by Danny Kildare; Mark Roper; Catriona Howatson
ORANGE REGIONAL COOKING SCHOOL, AUSTRALIA

Just short of 300km from the bustle of Sydney, in an old
country store, Lesley Russell’s laid-back cookery school lends
a taste of Australia without the intimidation of professional
kitchens or the racing pace of city life. The ethos is simple:
replicable dishes – the kind of thing you’re likely to actually cook
at home – all using seasonal, quality produce. Weekend and
evening classes often incorporate global influences, with dishes
ranging from lamb with couscous to roast peaches with honey
mascarpone and pistachio. learntocook.com.au
FORAGERS, PEMBERTON, AUSTRALIA

Located in the wilds of the Southern Forests region of Western
Australia, rustic-luxe Foragers boasts shiny new eco-chalets
with views across the woods and a 7-hectare working farm with
kitchen garden, orchards and rare-breed animals. One- and
two-day courses range from preserving to cheesemaking and
charcuterie or, of course, foraging. foragers.com.au

CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA
cookery schools
This page and

opposite: getting stuck
on Peruvian cooking.
Opposite: taking in
the sights and smells
of Lima, Peru, and
Valparaíso, Chile
‘In Valparaíso, sample dishes you are likely to learn include caldillo de congrio, a
rich fish and vegetable soup, razor clams on the half shell and corn and beef pie’
A TASTE OF PERU FOR FOODIES, LIMA & CUSCO, PERU BELCAMPO, BELIZE
If Peru had only given us the ceviche, it would suffice – but by A plush jungle lodge and organic farm set in the hills over a
the end of this seven-day trip, participants will understand 4,855-hectare nature reserve in southern Belize, Belcampo is
exactly how and why Peruvian cuisine has become increasingly a seriously seductive hideaway. There are a number of culinary
appreciated and fashionable. Based in Lima and Cusco, the experiences on offer but sign up for the bean-to-bar class to learn
course is a good balance of hands-on cooking, demonstrations, how to transform cacao into chocolate, then that chocolate into
tasting menus and excursions. It takes in native, ‘criolla’ and the likes of a Mayan choco pud. belcampobz.com
traditional foods and ingredients, from the Andes to the Amazon,
as well as new-style Peruvian cooking and the unique Peruvian- THE INTERNATIONAL KITCHEN, MENDOZA, ARGENTINA
Japanese fusion cuisine. There are various farm visits, including Grilled beef and local grape, empañadas and local grape, pasta
a special lesson on potatoes. And, if you come back without and local grape, chimichurri sauce and... well whatever the dish,
knowing how to make the world’s best pisco sour, well… you’ll Argentina has the perfect grape to match. Visits to some of the
simply have to go back again. activegourmetholidays.com numerous Maipú vineyards and bodegas just a few miles from
the park-and-plaza-filled city of Mendoza are included in a five-
DIEGO RUETE, MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY night package, as well as two cooking classes and a spectacular
When in Uruguay, and Montevideo in particular, chances are high mountain tour. One of the small hands-on classes focuses
you’ll be going big on beef. Which is partly why a cookery course on traditional Mendocinian cooking; the other, at the Finca
with chef Diego Ruete is so refreshing; he’ll teach you to cook Adalgisa Boutique Hotel & Winery, uses freshly harvested,
lots of vegetable-rich local dishes too, imparting his wisdom on homegrown ingredients cooked in a clay oven and over an open
Uruguayan culture and traditions along the way. cook-o.com fire with the farm’s Arauca olive oil. theinternationalkitchen.com
CHILEAN CUISINE, VALPARAISO, CHILE EL FRIJOL FELIZ, ANTIGUA, GUATEMALA

A well-mixed pisco sour always helps the day along, and by the Get to grips with the nuances of Guatemalan cuisine (it’s a cousin
Photography by Robert Pogson; Carl Pendle
end of a course at Chilean Cuisine, you’ll be an expert mixologist of Mexican) in small groups; sign up for several days and work
(for this cocktail, at least). Valparaíso is a glorious Unesco World your way through the roster of staples including pepián (stew),
Heritage city with a vibrant food culture, and Chilean Cuisine chiles rellenos (stuffed chillies), hilachas (shredded beef and
offers a flexible plan so you can ‘customise’ your cooking holiday, potato) and frijoles colorados (red beans with meat). frijolfeliz.com
spending either a day, a few days or a week cooking traditional
Chilean dishes from a daily changing menu of your choice. SKY KITCHEN, LIMA, PERU
Hands-on classes start with a market trip to buy fresh, local, Eating a meal on an open rooftop in the beating heart of Lima
seasonal ingredients with your teacher, and have a minimum of is an experience in itself, even if you haven’t cooked the food.
two and maximum of eight to ten participants. Sample dishes But all the better when you have – and at Sky Kitchen, which
you are likely to learn include caldillo de congrio, a rich fish and is held in chef Yurac’s home, you’ll be preparing a minimum of
vegetable soup, razor clams on the half shell and corn and beef three typical dishes under chef’s watchful gaze. Master the all-
pie. You can also combine one of the day’s classes with a visit to important ceviche, or opt for the Andean delicacies course for a
the vineyards of Casablanca Valley. cookingclasseschile.cl taste of some lesser-known Peruvian classics. skykitchen.pe

FOOD & TRAVEL 71
NORTH AMERICA
cookery schools
Top to bottom:
head over Brooklyn
Bridge to sample
New York’s spread
of cuisines; Times
Square; become
king of the cue in
North Carolina
THE BROOKLYN KITCHEN, NEW YORK, USA

Located in New York’s funkiest area, two-hour daily daytime and
evening classes are held in the spacious teaching kitchen. New
York’s melting pot of ethnic cultures is mirrored in the range of
class subjects – with over 100 to choose from, there’s something
for everyone, ranging from bagel making to a barbecue rib dinner,
all with that Big Apple flavour. thebrooklynkitchen.com
LOS DOS, MERIDA, MEXICO

For gastronomes, the land of the Mayan people has plenty in
store. Step forward chef David Sterling, whose cookery school
is the first to specialise in the Yucatán region’s cuisine. Don’t
expect moles and tacos though – situated in his gorgeous home,
a restored colonial mansion in the city of Mérida, he’ll get you
started on achiote-marinated red snapper roasted in banana
leaves over a charcoal fire and tamales stuffed with chaya,
pumpkin seeds and beans. Week-long workshops at the school
include several classes and visits to local markets, pueblos and
producers, as well as the ancient city of Izamál. los-dos.com
FOXGLOVE FARM, BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA

Famously British Columbia’s hippie enclave (imagine lots and
lots of tie-dye, and not worn ironically), Salt Spring Island has
long been championing the kind of organic and sustainable food
that’s now en vogue from Vancouver to Vilnius. At Foxglove
Farm, a 49-hectare organic farm, cottage retreat and centre
for ‘arts, ecology and architecture’ you can get a taste for that
free-thinking communal spirit and learn something about
organic food too. Retreats lasting between one and five days
might mix writers, musicians and artists with farmers, foresters
and ecologists; courses include cheesemaking, fungi foraging
and growing produce for market. Stay in the cottages or the
restored log farmhouse and you can feast on a basket of farm-
grown seasonal goodies too. foxglovefarmbc.ca
NORTH CAROLINA BARBECUE SOCIETY, USA

American barbecue has never been bigger and, according to
the North Carolina Barbecue Society, the state owns the title of
‘Cradle of Cue’. During the society’s BBQ Boot Camps, seasoned
pit masters will teach you how to cook a whole beast, Boston
butts, ribs, briskets – plus how to prepare all the essential sides
such as baked beans and collard greens. ncbbqsociety.com
TANTE MARIE, SAN FRANCISCO, USA

For more than 30 years, Tante Marie has been offering a range
of courses from its sunny San Fran location, making it one of the
oldest cookery schools in the country. Whether you book a one-
day class in knife skills or a week-long pastry ‘camp’ you’ll receive
the same high standard of tutelage as the renowned multi-month
professional programmes. tantemarie.com

Clockwise from top
left: dedication meets
design at Yucatán
school Los Dos;
its caballeros
pobres dessert; chef
Susana Trilling; Los
Dos; BBQ Boot Camp;
Blackberry Farm
‘The region of Oaxaca stands out on the Mexican culinary map for its mouthwatering
moles and pre-hispanic roots… among its many unexpected twists are pan-fried
grasshoppers, iguana meat, giant topped tortillas, exotic fruits and chocolate’
SEASONS OF MY HEART, OAXACA, MEXICO

The region of Oaxaca stands out on the Mexican culinary map
for its mouthwatering moles and pre-hispanic roots. Chef and
broadcaster Susana Trilling provides a range of courses at
her cookery school in an ideal setting between two traditional
villages, about 15km from Oaxaco city. The most immersive
are the week-long breaks, built around daily trips to markets,
ranches and cottage industries, with one morning demonstration
and one afternoon cooking class per day. The cuisine has many
unexpected twists like pan-fried grasshoppers, iguana meat
and chocolate, as well as exotic fruits, tlayudas (giant topped
tortillas) and fresh seafood. Evenings are always free for you to
enjoy the buzzing nightlife of the city. seasonsofmyheart.com
BLACKBERRY FARM, TENNESSEE, USA

Photography by Eduardo Cervantes; Beall & Thomas Photography
Time moves slower at Blackberry Farm, a 1,700-hectare luxury

hotel, farm and brewery in the Great Smoky Mountains. Quiet
though it is, it manages to attract names such as Alain Ducasse to
headline its regular cookery events. blackberryfarm.com
CUISINE AND SPA EXPERIENCE, SONOMA, USA

Serious food and grape buffs can live the dream at a top-end
inn and spa 45 minutes’ drive north of San Francisco. The
small group cookery classes are led by a changing roster of
distinguished chefs and cooks, so although the chance to work
alongside legendary names such as Rick Bayless, Jacques Torres
and Paula Wolfert does not come cheap, the experience is worth
its weight in kitchen expertise. One day the focus may be on
modern Californian, the next on Italian or Mexican, reflecting
some of the composite elements that make up the American
dining scene. The sessions are hands-on as everyone pitches in
to create an entire dinner matched with grapes from Sonoma
and beyond. Each class lasts four hours, which allows time for
sightseeing, vineyard visits and a choice from over 40 different
treatments at the Garden Spa. gourmetontour.com
FOOD & TRAVEL 73

ASIA
cookery schools
CASA LUNA, BALI

The warm, vibrant colours of the Balinese culinary palette are
as intoxicating as the magical setting of Casa Luna. Australian-
born Janet DeNeefe is no dilettante, however, and has immersed
herself in Balinese and Indonesian life for many years. She takes
the job of explaining Balinese life, beliefs and culture through
its food seriously and is a leading authority on the subject.
The use of herbs and spices in ceremonial and everyday dishes is
explored in her classes through dishes such as fragrant fish curry,
corn fritters and green coconut crepes, and there is a special
Sunday twilight session on preparing a smoked duck feast. Casa
Luna also offers market and gourmet food tours visiting sea salt
harvesters, village tofu makers and satay stalls. casalunabali.com
COOKERY MAGIC, SINGAPORE

‘Asian-style’ restaurants are ubiquitous throughout Southeast
Asia, and the thought can fill a traveller’s heart with dread. Top to bottom:
Secret Garden;
However, in Singapore the term truly reflects the diverse ethnic
Hanoi market; Hanoi
strands that make up the culinary culture of the city state. Cooking Centre;
Ruqxana Vasanwala runs a friendly cookery school in her own eating in Singapore
suburban home. On any one day you may find Indian, Chinese,
Indo-Thai, Malay, Eurasian or Nonya classes and even some
all-Singaporean sessions on satays and peanut sauce, many with
vegetarian options. The emphasis is on home-style cooking,
classes last three hours and run throughout the day and evening.
She can also arrange a visit to a local wet market and spice shops
before the start of a course. There’s also a special class on an
offshore island, where you collect jungle herbs then dine in a
historic Malay Kampong house. cookerymagic.com
SECRET GARDEN, HOI AN, VIETNAM

The town of Hoi An is attractive for many reasons – once a
major port, today its Unesco-listed old town, brimming with
restored colonial buildings and enchanting shops, is an essential
stop for visitors working their way along Vietnam’s lengthy
coast. But for those who love to eat, it claims another advantage
– near enough halfway between the country’s northern and
southern tips, it combines the cuisines of both ends of the country
with relish, as well as having colonial French and Chinese
influences present in good measure. So what better place to learn
to cook an array of Vietnamese dishes? Secret Garden runs half-
day cookery courses, where you will make the likes of chicken on
lemon leaf, aubergine in clay pot and fresh summer rolls (rice
paper stuffed with shrimp, meat and vegetables). In addition, you
can tack on visits to places like Tra Que village (a trip the school
can package for you), where you will get to see an organic
vegetable and herb garden worked using traditional methods. As
the name implies, the setting is amid tropical greenery, and the
school is part of a popular restaurant – so be sure to sit down for a
full Vietnamese feast here too. secretgardenhoian.com

Top to bottom:
Cookery Magic and
one of its dishes;
Hanoi Cooking
Centre; fresh chillies;
Secret Garden in
Hoi An, Vietnam;
Red Bridge, Hoi An
‘The chef-guided Street Eats and Market

Tour, by taxi or on foot, starts with an iconic
bowl of pho and, four hours later, ends with
Vietnamese coffee, tea and local sweets’
TAMARIND, LUANG PRABANG, LAOS

Traditional Lao cuisine, as offered by the Laotian-Australian
owners of Tamarind, is a delight, and quite different from the Thai
food with which it is often confused. The restaurant and cooking
school, housed in lakeside pavilions, emphasise fresh, local
produce and traditional techniques – starting with a visit to
the food market. Dishes include herbed fish steamed in banana
leaves and lemongrass stuffed with chicken and herbs – and you
also learn the art of making and eating perfect sticky rice. Luang
Prabang, the ancient capital of Laos, is a Unesco-listed city
filled with temples, palm trees and colonial buildings. Located
between two rivers, it has a charming, laid-back atmosphere
and some very good brews to try. tamarindlaos.com
SHERMAY’S, SINGAPORE
Singapore’s virtual smorgasbord of culinary traditions makes it a
great place to try your hand at various cuisines. Half-day classes
at Shermay’s specialise in a rainbow of culinary traditions, with
themes including Southeast and South Asian breads (dosas, naan
and roti among them) or Cooking with Lard (much better than
it sounds – think about perfecting Chinese pastry, yam paste or
frying techniques). shermay.com
HANOI COOKING CENTRE, HANOI, VIETNAM

As Vietnamese cooking grows in popularity, keen cooks are also
starting to understand the regional variations. Although Hanoi,
for example, has a Chinese influence, it also boasts classics such
as caramel meat not found elsewhere in the country. It’s one of
the dishes you can learn at this combined cookery school and café
housed in a charming colonial building. They also have courses
on southern fish cooking, Vietnamese street food, vegan cookery,
barbecues and salads, and a fascinating class on how the spring
roll changes its character as you travel the length of the country.
The chef-guided Street Eats and Market Tour, by taxi or on foot,
starts with an iconic bowl of pho and, four hours later, ends with
Vietnamese coffee, tea and local sweets. Classes are relaxed and
hands-on, with individual workstations, and are designed by
Singapore street photography by Carl Pendle
chef and author Tracey Lister. hanoicookingcentre.com
RED BRIDGE, HOI AN, VIETNAM

Start your day at Red Bridge cookery school in the city of
Hoi An via a river cruise and a colourful and fragrant visit to the
local market – a wonder in itself as hawkers and locals gather
to trade any number of rainbow-coloured fruits and vegetables,
fish and meat. Retreating to the school itself you can explore its
herb garden, before getting cracking on the likes of your own
rice paper, crispy Hoi An pancakes, summer rolls and pho. The
school even has its own private swimming pool, so you can cool
off after a chilli-flecked lunch. Now isn’t that how all cookery
schools should be? visithoian.com

ASIA
cookery schools Clockwise from top
left: combine Kyoto
cooking with classic
Japan; Thailand’s
Blue Elephant; take
your pick of Asian
classes; a course
at Linna Cookery
School in Cambodia
INSIDE JAPAN TOURS, TOKYO TO KYOTO, JAPAN

Jiro Dreams of Sushi is a documentary must-see before you go to
Japan – detailing the dedicated life of a sushi master that to many
of us could only exist in a parallel universe. However, the glimpse
of sushi-making offered by this absorbing 13-night tour will give
you an edge that will lift you beyond the supermarket standard.
Other hands-on classes include soba-noodle making in the
ancient castle town of Matsumoto and lessons on everyday family
cooking in centres such as Tokyo, Nara and Kyoto. Tempura,
teriyaki and okonomiyaki (Japanese ‘pancakes’) are also on the
menu, and the expert tuition presented in English will likely be a
rewarding experience to help you learn some of the skills needed
to become your own sushi master (well, almost) back home. The
tour will include sampling vegan food in a mountainous Buddhist
retreat, visits to markets and sake tasting. For this itinerary, quote
‘Food and Travel’ when booking. insidejapantours.com
BLUE ELEPHANT, BANGKOK AND PHUKET, THAILAND

Bangkok’s grand dame restaurant, owned by Thai celeb chef
Nooror Somany Steppe, also runs one of the country’s most
professional cookery schools. The experiences operate on a
weekly rotation of different half-day classes, in which you tackle
four key dishes (a curry, a noodle dish, a soup and a salad or
snack). But a five-day private course with Nooror will set you
up to truly master all the favourites, from Penang curry to phad
thai, as well as expose you to lesser-known classics and
‘modern’ Thai dishes with a Blue Elephant twist (think prawn
soufflé). As a result you’ll emerge with a more well-rounded view
of the cuisine than you’d get at most other schools. There are also
excellent options for vegetarians, while the school has branches
in both Bangkok and Phuket. blueelephant.com
CHIANG MAI COOKERY SCHOOL, CHIANG MAI, THAILAND

Chef Sompon Nabnian has run this popular school for over
ten years and is well known for his TV shows in Thailand. The
choice of courses is as wide as the Thai repertoire itself, from
curry pastes to vegetable carving. There are hands-on English-
language classes with Sompon or one of his trained instructors,
giving beginners a chance to explore Thai cuisine. Delve into a
five-day Homestay & Study course and hone your skills on fish
cakes, curries and hot and sour prawn soup in-between visits
to markets and exploring the ancient city of Chiang Mai and
its temples. Masters courses are also available for the more
advanced, tackling the intricacies of steamed snakehead fish with
chilli and lime sauce and mixed seafood soup with holy basil.
Students stay in Sompon’s home, which has double ensuite
rooms; there’s free transport to and from the city centre and
you’re even treated to a free Thai massage after working up a
sweat in the kitchen. thaicookeryschool.com

SOMPONG THAI COOKING SCHOOL, BANGKOK, THAILAND
Just as the secret to French cuisine is the perfect sauce, or to
Italian the freshest produce, what elevates you from a good to a
great Thai cook is the quality of your curry paste. A well-balanced
paste will form the base of complex flavours in curries, soups, stir
frys and more, and that’s why Sompong focuses on making sure
you get the basics right first. Sign up for between one and five
days, and you’ll start off at the market handpicking the goods for
your day at the stoves. Return to the school, which is decorated
with bunting and dotted-red tablecloths, and cook up delicately
spiced soups, curries and salads. sompongthaicookingschool.com
A TASTE OF CULTURE, TOKYO, JAPAN

The answer to your first question is – yes, classes are in English,
and are led by the distinguished American-born, award-winning
cookbook author Elizabeth Andoh, who has lived in Japan for
over four decades. Located in a residential part of the city, the
kitchen is fully equipped to teach small groups home-style
‘washoku’ meals using traditional tools and foods (alongside
modern equipment). Classes are themed, often with a seasonal
dimension: fish, bamboo or setsubun sushi rolling (to mark the
start of a new season), perhaps, and Elizabeth can also arrange
private market tours. Three-day washoku workshops are in-
depth and intensive – the word means ‘the harmony of food’ and
the philosophy permeates the syllabus. tasteofculture.com
LAZAT, KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA

Located in the verdant hills just outside the Malaysian capital,
LaZat operates from a Malaysian home – and teaches the
same dishes you’d typically expect to find in one. Thanks to an
instructive market visit and cheery tutelage you’ll leave with a
solid understanding of the country’s trademark blend of Malay,
Indian, Chinese and Thai flavours. malaysia-klcookingclass.com
LINNA COOKERY SCHOOL, PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA

While there are prolific numbers of cookery schools in
neighbouring Thailand, the cuisine of Cambodia seems to
receive far less attention – it’s a shame, as the Khmer empire
also once held culinary sway across the region. Beef lok lak,
Khmer pumpkin soup, fish amok and pineapple curry soup
are all cannons of the Cambodian cooking tradition that you’ll
see cropping up on menus in neighbouring countries. When
cookery writer Vong Linna opened her school in Phnom
Penh’s Toul Kork district in 2010, it was one of the very first
in the Cambodian capital. Four years later she’s running half-
day morning classes five days a week, each beginning with a
market tour (arriving by tuk-tuk, of course) and culminating in
a group lunch. There are also afternoon courses that are held on
weekends. linnacooking.com

ASIA
cookery schools
This page: courses

in Hong Kong and
Beijing (left) take
in the produce of
Sichuan (above).
Opposite: China’s
range of cuisine
is reflected in its
courses; in Korea,
get on the Seoul
train at O’ngo
‘Courses take in knife skills, THE HUTONG KITCHEN, BEIJING, CHINA

Aimed at both expats and English-speaking visitors to China,
wok flame control and The Hutong’s culinary classes tackle topics such as ‘Chinese
dumpling shaping, as well as Supermarkets: Dried, Fermented and Preserved’ (in other words,
some of Sichuan’s greatest what to do with all those fascinating but baffling ingredients you
see in Asian supermarkets). Other classes focus on Chinese
hits such as Zhong dumplings minority cuisines, baijiu cocktails, dumplings, or regional rice
and Gong Bao chicken’ varieties and preparations. thehutongkitchen.com
MARTHA SHERPA, HONG KONG, CHINA

SICHUAN HIGHER INSTITUTE, CHENGDU, CHINA The basic skills of stir-frying, knife-handling, chopping and
Food writer Fuchsia Dunlop has almost single-handedly slicing are the foundation stones of the Chinese kitchen. Martha
brought the complex and fiery Sichuan cuisine to the attention Sherpa is teacher, coach and cheerleader to those willing to go
of the world, so her involvement in creating the one- or two-week beyond their comfort zone when it comes to learning how to
Photography by Lai Wu; Peter Cassidy; Mark Parren Taylor

intensive course at her alma mater in Chengdu gives it the stamp correctly slice daikon, marinade shrimp or pleat dumplings.
of authority. Instruction is in English (phew!) and the school will The small classes (six students maximum) in her simple
organise for students to stay at well-equipped, reasonably priced, workshop are totally hands-on, even down to doing the washing-
modern serviced apartments. The courses take in knife skills, up, and Martha gives spot-on individual advice and guidance to
wok flame control and dumpling shaping, as well as practice in every pupil. There are a wide variety of courses and alternative
some of Sichuan’s greatest hits such as Zhong dumplings, Gong menus and you may need a spreadsheet to work out your
Bao chicken with peanuts, and ‘pock-marked old woman’s bean preferred schedule. But whether it’s focused on Cantonese
curd’. There are market and farm visits, as well as an unmissable cuisine, dim sum, Chinese barbecue or vegetarian among other
trip to a panda research centre – and the course ends with a choices, the whole day will be packed with techniques and tips.
27-course banquet. cookingschoolinchina.com Not least learning the proper way to prepare rice noodles so they
won’t be either soggy or stick to the wok. cookery.com.hk
YANGSHUO COOKING SCHOOL, GUANGXI, CHINA
A world away from the glitz of Shanghai or the buzz of Beijing, O’NGO, SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA
get a feel for traditional Chinese rural life in southern China’s Catering for beginners all the way up to professional chefs who are
sepulchral Yangshuo. Over one day, four days, or in a week- looking to get a feel for Korean cuisine, O’ngo – which is located in
long programme you’ll learn to cook typical local dishes (hops Seoul’s historic Insadong district – doesn’t only teach you dishes,
chicken, egg-wrapped dumplings) in a mud-brick farmhouse but also how to get your head around staple Korean ingredients
surrounded by rivers and karst hills. yangshuocookingschool.com and food culture. ongofood.com

ACTIVE TRAVELLER
HONG KONG
SEOUL
FOOD & TRAVEL 79
ASIA
cookery schools
Indian cuisine is
incredibly varied,
so dive in with a
cookery course
in situ to show
you the way
‘Expect the likes of Keralan chicken stew, duck curry and egg roast – all
washed down at the end of the day with a glass of “toddy”’
PHILIPKUTTY’S FARM, KERALA, INDIA EATING NEPAL

In the Keralan backwaters of Kumarakom, this working organic While backpacking the Annapurna Trail you’re more likely to
farmstay – rich with the aromas of nutmeg, cocoa, pepper, and the encounter cafés offering banana pancakes and grilled cheese
rustle of swaying coconut palms – feels a bit like your own private sandwiches, but it would be tragic to miss out on Nepalese food, a
culinary paradise. Stay in one of several private, traditionally blend of Indian and Asian with its own distinctive traits. Based in
styled villas, decked out in antiques, from which you only need Pokhara, this 12-day trip offers six half-day classes that are well
amble to classes held by owner Vinod and his family. The farm is interspersed with sightseeing and spare time. English chef and
also home to jumbo prawns and karimeen (pearl spot), accessible host Freddie Southwell guides the group through momos, curries,
by riverboat, and it’s proper produce like this that you’ll be rice dishes and noodle-making, as well as parathas, chapatis,
working with in classes. Expect the likes of Keralan chicken stew, pickles and lentil dishes. A highlight is cooking Nepalese food for
duck curry and egg roast – all washed down at the end of the day a family in their own home. himalayanfootsteps.com
with a glass of ‘toddy’. philipkuttysfarm.com
Photography top centre by Peter Cassidy
AT HOME WITH NIMMY AND PAUL, KERALA, INDIA

TASTE OF SOUTH INDIA For over 20 years, Keralan culinary authority Nimmy and her
Travelling from east to west, from Indian Ocean to Arabian Sea, husband Paul have been welcoming guests into their home in
this 14-day tour, including cooking classes on most days, takes Cochin, offering rooms along with hands-on cookery demos
in a great range of southern Indian food from spicy Chettinad and epic meals made in the Keralan Syrian Christian tradition.
seafood to Southern Indian dosas and idlis – even if you may Nimmy’s cooking is as legendary as her hospitality, and under
come back unable to look a boiled egg in the eye for a long time her guidance you’ll learn to make a mean meen molee (fish in
(in Chettinad/Tamil cuisine it is an essential part of a meal). coconut milk), perfect palappam (crisp laced rice pancakes) or
Work your way along to Keralan dishes served on banana incredible idiyappam (string hoppers). nimmypaul.com
leaves, lobster fishing (and the requisite lobster feasts), spice
market visits and spice plantations – all of which contribute to a The series continues next month with a look at top European courses,
fascinating fortnight of food and culture. tripfeast.com and then concludes with the best cookery schools and trips in the UK.

Below: the Aria will
RIVER CRUISES be your base for a
spectacular Amazon
adventure. Opposite,
Keeping
left to right: an Aria
suite; Yagua Indian
chief; Queen Violeta;
G-Adventures takes
you off exploring
CURRENT
New floating palaces, jam-packed itineraries
and awe-inspiring routes – Gabriella Le Breton
gets the lowdown on the latest in river cruising,
spanning waterways from Burma to Peru
82 FOOD &

AMAZON, PERU
With its vast expanses of virgin rainforest, want to experience something out of the ordinary,
staggering array of wildlife and remote tribal and here that means a chance to witness nature
communities, the Amazon is no ordinary river. and ecology within one of the world’s most complex
This year, Avalon Waterways is expanding into the river systems. A six-night voyage will offer you the
Amazon for the first time, via the splendid Aria, opportunity to spend two whole days in the lush
which can host 32 guests in 16 chic suites with Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, spotting sloths,
floor-to-ceiling picture windows. It features a sun toucans and turtles; take a canopy walk above dense
deck with Jacuzzi and cuisine from award-winning rainforest, visit riverside villages and go piranha
Peruvian chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino. Avalon’s fishing. A qualified naturalist guide will lead you on
itinerary includes three nights onboard this sleek daily excursions by skiff, returning to Queen Violeta
floating base, which will be your launchpad for for discussions about the area and its communities.
exploring the tributaries and their flora and fauna THE DETAIL Avalon Waterways’ (avalonwater
– spotting creatures from pink dolphins to frogs ways.com) 11-day From the Inca Empire to
and caiman. It’s part of a trip that begins in Lima, the Peruvian Amazon tour, from $5,564pp,
from where you will fly to Cusco, to visit the Sacred including hotels, most meals, excursions and
Valley and Machu Picchu, before heading north by guides, but excluding external and internal flights.
plane to set off on the cruise itself. G-Adventures’ (gadventures.co.uk) nine-day Amazon
G-Adventures is looking forward to the first year Riverboat Adventure, from $1,915pp, including
& TRAVEL
of operation of its 32-passenger Amazonian river hotels, internal flights, most meals, excursions, but
ship Queen Violeta. Its trips are aimed at those who excluding international flights.
Robert Pogson; Elard Aranibar Meza
Photography by Avalon Waterways;

Below: the Yangtze
includes stunning
‘A cruise down the Yangtze is like a
sights such as the voyage to a different world: its emerald
Xiling Gorge.
Left, top to bottom: banks shrouded in myth and legend,
a Tang Dynasty and landmarks such as the epic Three
show in Xi’an; panda
at Chongqing zoo; Gorges set to take your breath away’
the mighty Yangtze;
no visit to Xi’an
would be complete
without a show and
rickshaw ride
YANGTZE, CHINA
A cruise down the Yangtze river is like a voyage to a different world:
its emerald banks shrouded in myth and legend, and landmarks
such as the epic Three Gorges set to take your breath away. The
engineering feats are equally awe-inspiring. With so much to take
in, you need a floating hotel that will be a proper sanctuary. Cue
Century Paragon, a new five-star ship launching this year on the
Yangtze. Uniworld is offering a trip that includes this cruise, as
part of a voyage from Shanghai to Beijing. The 398-passenger
Century Paragon is packed with facilities such as a cinema, library,
spa, pool and boutique. It also offers cultural classes and events
including Tai Chi, folk dancing and Chinese calligraphy, as well
as two restaurants serving local and international cuisine. The
perfect partner to the splendour of Shanghai, Xi’an’s Terracotta
Army and Beijing’s Forbidden City.
THE DETAIL Uniworld’s (uniworld.com) 12-day Treasures
of China and the Yangtze cruise and tour from $4,249pp,
departing from April. Includes accomodation, most meals and
guided excursions.
84
86 FOOD & TRAVEL
RIVER CRUISES
Above: Yangon Shwedagon Pagoda in Burma. Below, left to right: AmaPura and suite; Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda; Irrawaddy Explorer and suite
IRRAWADDY, BURMA
Burma is one of the world’s most mysterious and fascinating Austrian-based Lüftner Cruises, best known for its
places, and has long been one of its most elusive. However, with sophisticated Amadeus ships on Europe’s rivers, is also launching
tourism starting to grow – as the country transitions away from a new ship in Burma: the 56-passenger, colonial-style Irrawaddy
a military government – its architectural and cultural splendour Explorer. On the Mysterious Myanmar cruise, the voyage will
now await your discovery. The best way to explore this land of start in Prome, northwest of Yangon, and take in picturesque
temples, pagodas and colonial treasures is by river, meandering villages such as Yandabo and Mingun, with its eerie clusters of
gently through its heart along the Irrawaddy. AmaWaterways unfinished pagodas. Other highlights include Bagan, Mandalay
China photography courtesy of Uniworld
is launching two voyages aboard the new AmaPura later this and Amarapura. In addition to its Burma programme, Lüftner
year. With just 28 contemporary suites, all featuring balconies, will be launching voyages on the Mekong and Ganges this
autumn aboard the Mekong Navigator and Ganges Voyager,
Boutique River Cruise Collection
AmaPura boasts a stylish restaurant, lounge and bar, a spa,

pool and large sun deck. The 16-and 14-day itineraries start in revealing these relatively unexplored regions of Asia.
the colonial gem of Yangon, giving you time to delve into the THE DETAIL AmaWaterways’ (amawaterways.co.uk) 14-day
temples, lush parks and markets of the Garden City of the East. Golden Treasures of Myanmar cruise from $5,694pp departing
Sailing from Yangon, AmaPura will call at the temple complex of December, including ten nights’ onboard and three nights’ hotel
Bagan and several ancient royal cities: Inwa, the Burmese capital accomodation, most meals, tours and onboard entertainment,
for over 400 years; Amarapura, home to the world’s longest teak excluding domestic and international flights. Lüftner Cruises’
bridge; and tranquil Sagaing. Guests will also visit the shrine nine-night Mysterious Myanmar cruise from $4,128pp departing
of Mount Popa, home of spirit gods worshipped by Burmese September, including all meals, shore excursions and onboard
buddhists, and Mandalay, the country’s last royal capital. entertainment, excluding all flights.

RIVER CRUISES
Below: Queen of the Mississippi.
Left to right: cooked oysters in the
Big Easy; streetcar; crayfish cook
and his food; a local brass band
‘Sailing from New Orleans, you can follow the history of one of America’s biggest rivers,
MISSISSIPPI, USA
Photography by American Cruise
Sailing from New Orleans, you have the opportunity to follow ship will be calling in at places such as Mississippi’s first capital,
the history of one of America’s biggest rivers, the Mississippi; the Natchez, vibrant Baton Rouge and cotton fields before returning
route lined with gracious sugar cane plantations, quintessential to the ‘Capital of Jazz’. The Queen of the Mississippi evokes the
Southern towns and historic battlefields. American Cruise luxury of grand antebellum mansions, offering passengers the
Lines; Steve Orino
Lines’ Queen of the Mississippi has changed the face of cruising largest staterooms on the river, a magnificent dining room, well-
here, being the first new vessel built for the river in nearly 20 stocked library and chart room, six lounges and a putting green.
years. With her classic tiered decks and red paddlewheel, she THE DETAIL American Cruise Lines’ (americancruiselines.
blends 21st-century maritime technology and mod cons with com) eight-day round-trip from New Orleans, from $4,162pp,
the grandeur of classic American riverboats. On a round-trip, the full board; price excludes shore excursions and flights.

Clockwise from below:
Emerald Sky brushes
past Hungary’s epic
ACTIVE TRAVELLER
parliament; the Danube
in Austria’s Wachau
Valley; floating down to
pretty Dürnstein
as you call at sugar plantations, quintessential Southern towns and historic battlefields’
DANUBE, RHINE, MAIN AND MOSELLE,

ACROSS EUROPE
Cruising on the stately Rhine you have time to take in Swiss
gorges, German castles and Alsatian vineyards on your way
to historic Amsterdam. While on the Danube, the river carves
through the best of Central Europe – historic cities such as Linz
and Vienna in Austria, as well as Budapest and Bratislava. This
summer, a breath of fresh air will be blowing down the Danube,
as Emerald Waterways – a new brand from upmarket Australian
cruise line Scenic Tours – offers a four-star alternative to its big
sister. It is launching with two shiny new 182-passenger ships,
which will sail on the Danube, Rhine and Main. Pitched at a
younger audience, Emerald Star and Emerald Sky benefit from
features such as a heated pool with retractable roof, and a gelati
station that morphs into a cinema each evening. Owner’s Suites
boast minimalist decor, walk-in wardrobes, Nespresso machines,
iPads and complimentary laundry service. But the focus remains
on value: inclusive cruise fares cover drinks, tips, wi-fi, daily Ships will also offer a cocktail lounge, fitness centre, spa, sun deck
shore excursions and EmeraldPlus activities, which dig below with Jacuzzi, two restaurants and a fleet of bicycles for pedalling
Photography by Austrian National
the surface of a selection of destinations. off once you set foot on dry land. Sailing aboard Inspire, you are
Tourist Office/Himsl/Hahn F
Meanwhile, family-owned travel company Tauck is launching able to follow the Rhine as it winds from Basel all the way to
a new class of river cruise ship this year, with the Savor operating Amsterdam – some of its calling points being Heidelberg Castle,
on the Danube and the Inspire on the Rhine and Moselle. The Cologne and the 2,000-year-old town of Koblenz, .
new vessels will raise the bar in terms of space per passenger on THE DETAIL Emerald Waterways’ (emeraldwaterways.com)
river ships, accommodating up to 130 guests, whereas current eight-day Danube Delights voyages from $2,225pp full board,
ships of a similar size host up to 190. The pair will each feature 67 including port charges and excursions. Tauck’s (tauck.co.uk)
cabins, of which eight will be ‘loft’ designs, which feature a raised eight-day Romantic Rhine from $3,989pp, including most meals,
platform seating area by virtually double-height picture windows. shore excursions, and transfers; excludes flights.

RIVER CRUISES ‘Breathe in the lavender fields of
Provence, culture of Arles, vintages
of Burgundy and cuisine of Lyon’
Above and left: Viking’s

modern ships. Right: the
Saône passes through Lyon
RHONE AND SAONE, FRANCE Photography by Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection
Boutique river cruise line Uniworld is already celebrated for Sample the cuisine of Lyon with Viking River Cruises, which
its six-star luxury fleet, the only cruise ships to have received lays claim to the world’s largest river cruise fleet. By the end of
a Zagat rating for dining, but it has set a new benchmark with the year, it will have launched a record 30 new ships within just
the launch of its latest ship, SS Catherine. At 135m long, SS three years. Many of these are Viking Longships: 190-passenger
Catherine is one of Uniworld’s largest ships yet she carries ships with clean, Scandinavian-style interiors and hybrid diesel-
just 159 passengers – the additional space affords spacious electric engines, which reduce environmental impact, noise
staterooms, five suites of 28 sq m and, the pièce de résistance, and vibration. Other innovative touches include an indoor/
the 38 sq m Royal Suite. Gracing the Rhône and Saône, SS outdoor ‘Aquavit Terrace’, an organic herb garden and Explorer
Catherine will usher you from Avignon to Lyon, travelling Suites – the largest river cruise suites in Europe. Two brand
through some of France’s best countryside, taking in Burgundy new Longships, Viking Buri and Viking Hermod, will launch on
and Provence. the Saône and Rhône this spring, sailing from Chalon-sur-
This trip boasts a choice of 14 excursions, so you’ll be able to Saône to Avignon over eight leisurely days.
soak up the culture of Arles, synonymous with Van Gogh, see THE DETAIL Uniworld’s eight-day Burgundy & Provence
imposing Tarascon Fortress and pay a visit to the twin cities of cruise departing April to November from $3,399pp. Viking River
Tournon and Tain -l’Hermitage, famed for its wonderful Côtes Cruises’ (vikingrivercruises.co.uk) eight-day Portraits of Southern
du Rhône grape. France voyages from $2,810pp full board and shore excursions.

Jewel
From its dramatic desert castles and Ottoman architecture to its
in the
created a unique blend of cultures and cuisines. Rosemary Barron
crown
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARY LATHAM
90 FOOD & TRAVEL

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Bedouin tents and magnificent Roman ampitheatres, Jordan’s eclectic history has
takes a closer look at this spectacular and most liberal of Middle Eastern kingdoms

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Enticing aromas draw you to the market herbalists with sacks full of dried lemons, hibiscus
flowers, geranium and sage, perfumed za’tar and trays of giant, dried sunflower heads
T
he Bedouin – proud desert nomads whose way of life has Amman (Ammon, in antiquity) is the site of one of the largest Stone
captured our imaginations for generations – are certainly at Age settlements so far discovered in the Middle East. Remnants
one with their environment. Their waterproof, woven goat- have been unearthed, too, from the early Bronze and Iron Ages when
hair tents allow the slightest breeze to enter so they can adapt their present-day Jordan was composed of many small states. Then
daily culinary tasks to the relentless summer heat. For celebrations, came the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians and Greeks before the
Bedouins prepare mansaf, a glorious dish made with a whole lamb Romans re-named Ammon Philadelphia – one of the Decapolis,
and ingredients that are easily transported – rice, spices, nuts, dried or ten cities with allegiance to Rome – and built Al-Qal’a, the
laban (yoghurt), and flour. If lucky enough to be invited into their magnificent citadel whose ruins still dominate the skyline. The link
company, you’d join everyone sitting on the floor, their magnificent between these groups was their interest in the area’s importance as
platters of food displayed almost ceremoniously in the centre. a trade route. And curious visitors can readily discover the influences
Mansaf is a feast that’s made to share. Many Jordanians consider this eclectic history has had on Jordan’s modern food story.
it their national dish – an apt and altruistic choice in a country where The Romans also discovered well-trodden routeways here
visitors are greeted with the words, ‘We welcome you’. In the kitchen between the ancient empires of Egypt, Persia and Assyria. As
of Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative Society, cooks Amena, Nwer, they occupied the area they found skilled farmers, well-equipped
Latifa and Sabah prepare mansaf with chicken: ‘First, I tear shirak kitchens, olive groves, orchards, vegetable gardens and an array
(bread, stretched into thin rounds by hand and lightly baked) into of spice shops. With such a rich source of local foodstuffs and
pieces and spread these over a large tray, like this,’ demonstrates skilled labour the Romans thrived, building massive markets in the
Amena, ‘then I pour over chicken stock that we made earlier. Last shadows thrown down by their imposing citadels.
night we soaked dried laban in water, to bring it back to life; then this In Amman today, your nose will guide you from the breathtaking
morning we prepared one of our chickens, cleaning and jointing it Roman Theatre, its ampitheatre built to seat 6,000 people, to the
before cooking it in the laban with spices.’ small shops and narrow streets of the Spice Souk. Then it’s on
Over the bread she heaps rice, this too cooked in stock and spices to the noisy, well-stocked Downtown Souk nearby. Here, stalls
and, on top, the chicken pieces; over all she scatters parsley and are stacked high with seasonal produce – tomatoes, cucumbers,
almonds fried in samneh, clarified butter. Before taking it to the table, melons, peppers, apples, plums, peaches – that startle in their
Amena covers the mansaf with a round of shirak, the same size as vivid colours and intense flavours, the result of being grown with
the tray, to infuse everything beneath with the spicy steam. Lemon less water. Enticing aromas draw you, too, to the market herbalists.
wedges, bowls of rich, deep-gold stock and handfuls of fresh rocket With sacks full of dried lemons, hibiscus flowers, geranium and
accompany this treat. Later, Anam Al-Abbadi, who oversees the co- sage, perfumed za’tar, fuul (dried fava beans) and trays of giant,
operative, joins us for coffee, made gloriously aromatic with ground dried sunflower-heads heavy with seeds, your senses will be
cardamom pods and poured piping hot from a flask into small overwhelmed with the scents and sights of their distinctive wares.
cups. Coffee plays an important role in traditional society: if you’re Traders cry out, advertising their trinkets, olives and fresh herbs –
accepted, you’re served coffee – a moment of relief, no doubt, for huge bundles of mint, coriander, parsley and purslane to name
many a desert traveller passing through in the past. just a few. And, nearby, stop to enjoy some sugar cane juice with
Jordan is a relatively young country with a complex history. In 1921, the knowledge that the sweet drink has been used to refresh the
following the collapse of the Ottoman empire and Arab Revolt, the people of the Jordan Valley for over two thousand years.
French assumed influence over Lebanon and Syria; the British over To the north of Amman are more superb Roman ruins. Gadara or
the Palestinian territories, encompassing the Emirate of Transjordan Umm Qais – once described by a classical poet as ‘New Athens’
(east of the River Jordan) and the British Mandate for Palestine (west – is a place of wonder. Wander through its beautiful, colonnaded
of the river). In 1946, the emirate gained independence as The main street, taking in the stunning black-basalt theatre and carved
Hashemite Kingdom of Transjordan, with Amman as its capital (it black sarcophagi. And just over an hour away, great Jerash is a rival
was renamed The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan in 1949). Modern to the splendour of Pompeii. This is a land celebrated

Opposite page, from left: Umayyad
Palace, Amman; As-Salt market;
kubah, meat and spices in lentil
coating, Azraq. This page:
Clockwise from top: Umm Qais; GOURMET TRAVELLER
Umayyad Palace; herbalist spices;
lentil soup, Ajlun; aubergine with
almonds; kubah; bread on
sandwich stall, Amman; Iraq
Al-Amir woman; Amman view;
As-Salt market
To the north of Amman are more superb Roman ruins. Gadara, or Umm Qais with its colonnaded main street
and black sarcophagi – and once described as the ‘New Athens’ by a classical poet – is a place of wonder
FOOD & TRAVEL 93

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Clockwise from top: Jordan

This is a land that is celebrated in both the Valley; market bread; melon
Bible and the Koran, where the forested seller; hummus, Haret
Jdoudna. Opposite page:
hills and fertile valleys induce a feeling of Haret Jdoudna; grapes,
blissful timelessness. To share a family’s Ajloun; figs; lunch, Madaba;
Iraq Al-Amir; Umm Qais
food here is an extraordinary privilege
94 FOOD & TRAVEL

Olive oil is known locally as Roman oil, giving some clue as to the age of some of the dignified, gnarled
trees in the numerous olive groves that cover this region, and its flavour imbues the local cuisine
in both the Bible and the Koran, where the forested hills and rich,
fertile valleys induce a feeling of blissful timelessness. To share a
family’s food in such a place is an extraordinary privilege. Travel information
In nearby Ajlun, host Mohamad Dwekat is justifiably proud of the The official currency is the Jordanian Dinar (JD). You can change money
beautful array of dishes that his wife, Maysoon, has cooked and in hotels and banks. Jordan is two hours ahead of GMT. The climate is hot
arranged on the courtyard table. The centrepiece, makmoora, is a Mediterranean in the west and north-west; very short, but occasionally chilly
local speciality – a delicious pie of stacked olive oil-baked pastry winters; short and distinctive springs and autumns; long, hot summers and
rounds separated by layers of both spicy meat and chicken. high summer daytime desert temperatures with no rain. Visitors will benefit
Surrounding it are bowls of lentil soup, yoghurt balls in olive oil known from cooler nights towards the south and in the east.
as labneh, warak enab or tiny stuffed vine leaves and moujadara
(lentils and rice with onion slow-cooked in olive oil and sumak). GETTING THERE
Maysoon has also prepared baba ghanoush (mashed aubergine), Royal Jordanian Airlines (rj.com) flies daily from Qatar to Amman.
Arabic salad (diced tomatoes and cucumber with parsley and tart- Emirates (emirates.com) flies daily from Dubai to Amman.
tasting sumac) and purslane (a nutrient-packed wild green that’s Gulf Air (gulfair.com) flies daily from Bahrain to Amman.
appetisingly acidic in flavour) in a yoghurt and olive oil sauce. Tea is
flavoured by sage that Mohamad plucks from a nearby bush, and RESOURCES
dessert grapes are taken straight from the courtyard vine. Jordan Tourism Board (visitjordan.com) has
Olive oil is known locally as Roman oil, giving some clue as to useful advice to help you plan your trip.
the age of some of the dignified, gnarled trees in the olive groves Wild Jordan (+962 6461 6523, rcsn.org.jo) For general ecological
that cover this region. Its flavour imbues the local cuisine as do information, maps and bookings.
dishes favoured by Palestinians, now a large proportion of Jordan’s
population. Kitchens here are simple, with a few essential tools FURTHER READING
– a large, stone mortar and pestle for kibbeh (a dish often used Jordan by Carole French (Bradt Travel Guides, $28.11). A guide to take
informally to measure the skill of a household’s cook) and a small you through the exotic mix of old-fashioned bazaars, tiny streets, desert
brass one, for herbs and spices. There’s a heavy-bottomed pan for treks and religious sites.
yoghurt-based sauces and for making samneh, and a large, round, A New Book of Middle Eastern Food by Claudia Roden (Penguin, $41).
shallow pan for pastries. Store-cupboard necessities include fine Reproduce some of the wonderful, exotic and wholesome foods of this
and coarse burghul or cracked wheat, tahini paste, dried beans, history-rich region in your own kitchen.
chick peas, dried mint, za’tar and rose-flower water. Jordan: Walks, Treks, Caves, Climbs and Canyons by Di Taylor and
Greek-speaking and predominantly Christian Byzantium (now Tony Howard (Cicerone Press, $28.13). For the more adventurous traveller
Istanbul) had a profound effect on this land. In Madaba, south of this guide will lead you through the wonderful landscapes of Ajloun, the
Amman, there’s a stunning 6th-century mosaic map, which is the Dead Sea Hills, Dana and Wadi Rum.
oldest known depiction of the Holy Land. The surrounding area is as
richly productive now as it was back in Byzantine times – with olive
groves, fruit orchards and vineyards sweeping the landscape and
the production of forest honey in full swing.
Zumot’s Saint George grapes benefit from the unique local
growing conditions. Their distinctive characters are derived from
grapes grown as close as possible to the desert so they can take
advantage of the big fluctuations in day and night temperatures.
Jordan has been home to biblical-style plagues so I asked vigneron
Omar Zumot how he was able to grow organic grapes in such an
environment. He explained, ‘We see pests – which are plentiful –
not as something to destroy but, instead, as part of the
FOOD & TRAVEL 95

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Outside in the
courtyard, two
Where to eat hammocks are
piled high with
Prices are per person for three courses, with mint tea, unless
otherwise stated.
just-picked
mallow, drying
Haret Jdoudna Ottoman building transformed into a series of delightful naturally in the
indoor and outdoor dining areas, a few minutes’ walk from the Mosaics
Map of the Holy Land. An array of good mezze – try the tiny cheese pies, sun before being
the baba ghanoush and fresh salads. The restaurant also serves Jordanian stored for winter
wines and beer. From $17. Adel Jumean
Street, Madaba. 00 962 5324 8650/1, haretjdoudna.com
Hashem Tiny café overflowing into an alley serving delicious and
inexpensive hummus, falafel and fuul, served with bread, chilli
pickles and piping hot mint tea. From $3. Al-Amir Mohammed
Street, downtown, Amman
Jafra Café Large, first floor café for non-acoholic drinks (try the
lemon-mint tea and fruit beers) and light meals. Popular with water-pipe
(shisha)-smokers. The balcony overlooking the street is a good
place to soak up the atmosphere of downtown Amman. From $10.
downtown Amman, opposite the main Post Office, 00 962 6462
2551, jafra-group.com
Jerusalem (Al-Quds Restaurant) Well-known for mansaf, the Bedouin
dish of meat and rice, and popular with Jordanians. This is a good place
to learn how to eat mansaf properly (with your right hand only, form each
scoop of food into a ball with thumb and two fingers and gently toss it into
your mouth, without letting your fingers touch your mouth). Large,
high-turnover restaurant that’s inexpensive and boasts a good array of
sweets and pastries. From $8. Al-Malek al-Hussein Street (downtown),
Amman 00 962 6463 0168
Sufra Sufra, meaning ‘when the meal is ready’, is an ideal spot to rest
and refresh, away from the bustle of Al-Rainbow Street. Serves Jordanian
dishes from throughout the country. Booking recommended. From
$30. Rainbow Street (corner of Uthman Bin Affan Street), Amman,
00 962 5461 1468/9 sufrajordan.com
Umm Qais Resthouse Enjoy a refreshing lemon-mint drink or a light meal
in spectacular Gadara, a Roman antiquity overlooking the Jordan Valley and
Tiberias Lake (The Sea of Galilee). From $12. Site Touristique de Gadara,
Umm Qais, 00 962 2750 0555, romero-group.com
life-cycle here. Our pigeon towers bring these birds to the area. pickle. But the Druze also enjoy their own specialities such as fatet
They have taken care of the large numbers of wasps and we’ve batinjan (baked aubergine, bread and tiny meatballs in yoghurt sauce
also planted aromatic herbs between the vines to attract aphid- with almonds) and shish barak (small pastries generously filled with
devouring small birds.’ ground lamb and onion made the Druze way using samneh, not olive
History here can be roughly measured in blocks of a few hundred oil, in a spicy, pale-ochre yoghurt sauce).
years. It wasn’t long before the Byzantines were overrun by the Outside, in the courtyard, two hammocks are piled high with just-
Ottomans and, at intervals, other followers of Muhammad – seeing picked mallow (melochia), drying naturally in the sun before Abu
Muslims replace Christians as the dominant religion. Amer or his wife store them away for their winter casseroles (the
This was a time of movements (and scatterings) of people. On the dried leaves will turn a slow-cooked sauce velvety rich).
edge of the great Eastern Desert, in Azraq, near the fortress that was Jordan’s Desert Castles fire the imagination. They’re built in places
once the headquarters of Lawrence of Arabia, Abu Amer bids us to it’s almost impossible to believe man can survive. Yet the inner walls
enter his fan-cooled house. Inside his wife, Um Amer, has prepared of 8th-century Qasr Amra – a Unesco World Heritage Site set amid
a true feast. As members of Jordan’s small Druze community (who sand dunes and miles from anywhere – are covered with murals
are also found in neighbouring Syria and Lebanon), their culinary depicting hunting and feasting. Then there’s the majestic form of
repertoire includes dishes found commonly elsewhere in Jordan – Qasr Al-Kharrana, a caravanserai (a type of inn with a courtyard for
kibbeh, moujadara, fattoush (a salad of bread, tomatoes and herbs), travellers) that rises out of the desert that can’t help but enthral.
kabsa (spicy rice with chicken and fried almonds) and green pepper You may also catch a glimpse of some

GOURMET TRAVELLER
Opposite page: spicy

lamb with onions and
pine nuts, Haret
Jdoudna. Clockwise
from top left: As-Salt
market; falafel; seller at
palm sugar drink stall;
cheese parcels, Haret
Jdoudna restaurant;
Madaba, Iraq Al-Amir
Below, from left: mint tea, Druze community; perfume shop, Amman; sunflowers; trader, downtown market, Amman
FOOD & TRAVEL 97

This page, clockwise from
top: donkey; Haret
Jdoudna spicy chicken;
bread in bakery; Amman
street; Rose water pastry;
olives; baklava
beautiful birds here – the exquisite, rose-pink and grey Sinai

rosefinch, Jordan’s national bird, or the red-rumped wheatear.
Closer to Amman is Ajlun castle. Built in 1184 by one of Saladin’s
generals its purpose was to protect the area from the Franks and
Crusaders and it remains a monument to Arab-Islamic military
architecture. It’s also one of the network of castles which, in medieval
times, used fire beacons and pigeon post to transmit messages
between Damascus and Cairo in 12 hours.
Throughout these turbulent centuries, the Ottomans established
themselves in towns such as As-Salt, north-west of Amman. Settled
during the Iron Age, As-Salt’s magnificent Ottoman buildings with
high, domed roofs, interior courtyards and beautiful, tall arched
windows prove its importance to that influential empire. Under British
rule, this was considered as a possible site for Transjordan’s capital,
before Amman was eventually chosen instead.
Befittingly, in a country where it’s possible to be outside for much
of the year, Amman is a paradise for lovers of street food. Along the
Food glossary busy streets of Downtown, try fresh-baked sesame-coated bread

filled with tomato, goat’s cheese and za’tar. Behind Paris Square,
Baba ghanoush Purée of aubergines, slow-roasted over an open look for sublime fried doughnuts, liberally dusted with sugar and
flame until scorched, with tahini paste, olive oil and lemon juice. cinnamon. And don’t pass the Jerusalem restaurant, on Al-Rainbow
Bedouin coffee Rich, sweet and aromatic, made with ground Street, without sampling some of its delicious falafel.
cardamom; served piping hot in small cups. A stroll along this interesting, café-filled street will take you past
Burghul Cracked wheat, fine or coarse ground. attractive architecture, including the birthplace of Jordan’s late King
Fuul Cooked, dried fava beans mashed with olive oil, lemon and chilli. Hussein and balconied houses built by Circassians, people originally
Kanafeh Sweet pastry made with layers of shredded dough (kataifi, from the North Caucasus who were displaced by the Ottomans in
available in Greek and Middle Eastern stores) and white goat’s cheese, the mid-19th century. In early medieval France this legendary land
sprinkled with pistachio nuts and drenched in rose-water syrup. became known as The Levant, from levant – or (sun) ‘rising’ – a
Kibbeh Fine-ground burghul mixed with ground lamb and onion, shaped name adopted first by the Crusaders, then the British.
into 4cm-sized ‘rugby-balls’ then fried – a popular traditional dish. The Levant’s historic routeways link the lands of the eastern
Laban Yoghurt that’s made from goat milk. Mediterranean, north east Africa and western Asia, and it’s this that
Labneh Yoghurt cheese, made into balls and stored in whey. forms the foundation of Jordan’s rich food story. You can find it in
Maqlubeh A dish that is ‘overturned’, with meat sitting on top of rice. the Bedouin coffee you’re offered, in the syruped, pistachio-filled
Samneh Clarified goat’s butter, in the past made from buffalo milk. pastries of the Byzantines, in the exquisite fresh fruit juices and herb-
Sumac Auburn-red berry with a slightly acidic flavour, ground – a infused teas, that are beloved throughout the Arab world, and at the
regular flavouring for salads and slow-cooked onion-based dishes. tables of Jordan’s generous people.
Za’tar A herb/spice mixture of thyme, marjoram, sumac, salt and
toasted sesame; also the local word for thyme. Rosemary Barron and Gary Latham travelled courtesy of The Jordan
Tourism Board (visitjordan.com) and Royal Jordanian Airlines (rj.com).
Above, left to right: Iraq Al-Amir woman; mint and lime drink, Gadara; pomegranates; mosque, Madaba. Below, left to right: Gold Market,
Amman; Paris Square people and goods. Bottom, left to right: citadel; camel; grape seller; grape; Paris Square
Don’t miss Where to stay

Al-Balad (Downtown) Walking Trail Taking you along quiet side streets, where Prices quoted are for a double room based on two people sharing with
you’ll find delicious falafel, fresh fruit juices or coffee. Take tea in a traditional breakfast (unless otherwise stated)
tea shop (at the First Circle, or try the café at the junction of Sylyman al-Bustani
Street) or indulge in an ice cream at Gerard’s. Wild Jordan, Othman Bin Affa Heritage House A small block of apartments in a tree-lined street
Street, Downtown, Amman, 00 962 6 533 7931/2, rscn.org.jo located close to the cafés of Al-Rainbow Street. Costs $340 per night,
Desert Castles and Roman Ajlun Take a day trip to the Desert Castles or per apartment. Bldg 2, Al-Rainbow Street, First Circle, Amman,
Roman Ajlun and stop for lunch in a local home. Approximate cost per person 00 962 6464 3111 heritageamman.com
for car, driver and day tour of sites, including lunch is $111. siyaha.org Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative Society (see also Don’t Miss)
As-Salt A small, interesting town with lovely Ottoman buildings and a 20km west of Amman and close to the archaeological site, Qasr Al-Abd.
delightful market, 30km north-west of Amman. Stop at the Historic Old Ideal for the independent traveller. Approximate price per person, $37
Salt Museum, then pick up a map of the Salt Heritage (Buildings) Trail half-board. 00 962 6548 1385
and take yourself on a walk around the town. Al Qasr Hotel is a four star boutique hotel with a great view of the capital
Paris Square Enjoy small shops selling ceramics, bric-a-brac and antiques. and close to its cultural centre. Rooms from $191. 00 962 658 9671/2
There’s also a variety of interesting architecture here, including some attractive Geneva Hotel A family run hotel in West Amman. Rooms from $166. Abdulla
modernist buildings (dating from the 1920s). 16 Mohammad Ghosha Street, Amman, 00 962 6585 8100. genevahotel-amman.com
Ali Al-Sa’di Street, Amman, beitsittijo.com
Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative Society Established in 1993 and
funded by the Swiss government, this provides training projects for women
from all villages in Wadi Seer and is run by female members of the Society.
You can buy handicrafts, goat-hair rugs, hand-made fabrics and paper,
and ceramics, and there is a showroom and tourism information centre. Book
for lunch. From $12. 962 6548 1385
Madaba A Byzantine church containing a 6th-century mosaic map of the
Holy Land. Nearby is Mount Nebo, the final stop in Moses’ flight from Egypt.
FOOD & TRAVEL 99

CITY BREAKS
Hanover
Travel time 9 hrs
48 Sapporo
HOURS
Travel time 12.5 hrs

Philadelphia
Travel time 17.5 hrs
Although rebuilt as a city custom-fit for the car, Hanover’s charm is probably best uncovered on foot. Stroll the regal
gardens of Herrenhausen, have lunch amid the bustle of the Markthalle, where locals mingle among the delis, market
stalls and coffee bars, then head to the picturesque Maschsee river, where you’ll also find the impressive Sprengel
Museum of modern art. As the cherry blossom bursts onto the scene, stroll in Odori Park, tuck in at the wide array
of casual restaurants along Ramen Alley, and become a connoisseur of the region’s fine beverages. The seafood is
sensational here – coming in fresh to the market each day – as are the views from Mount Moiwa, best seen at night
as the city twinkles. Sapporo may be located far north on Hokkaido island, but it’s a corner of Japan you must visit. In
Philadelphia, eat your way around the city via belly-busting cheesesteaks, pizza wedges and pretzels. Perfect fuel for
sightseeing, with the likes of Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell reminding you this was the birthplace of America.
World-class art galleries like Barnes Foundation and urban murals prove this city is bursting with creativity too.

Clockwise from top:
the skyline glistens in
the Maschsee at dusk;
CITY BREAKS Hanover Opera
House; touring the
many museums and
buildings, including
HANOVER
Leine Palace with its
pretty bridge; grand
designs at the gardens
of Herrenhausen; bars
and bites around town
The capital of Lower Saxony, this city was redesigned for the motor car. Equally easy
to explore on foot, its parks, palaces and lakes are royally good, says Alex Allen
Why go? More manageable than Munich, greener than Hamburg high-quality about them, with leather lounge chairs, chrome
and with royal connections Frankfurt can only dream of, Hanover Hansgrohe fittings and soundproof windows. You’ll nod off while
is the misunderstood middle child of Germany’s urban centres. gazing at photographs of the city that look down from the ceiling.
Art, theatre and some grand historic architecture bring colour and The breakfast buffet has the regular fare, but is unusually good.
creativity to this bustling business hub. The brew’s not bad either. At Kastens Hotel Luisenhof (00 49 511 30440, kastens-luisenhof.
What to do You may be vaguely aware of a royal connection between de) rooms are luxuriously decorated, with thick-pile carpets and
the UK and Hanover somewhere down the line. The source of the tasteful colours. Leos bar is all dark wood and red leather – perfect
link in fact lies down a different kind of line – northwest out of the city for either a nightcap or just watching the world go by.
centre by tram. The jaw-dropping grounds of Herrenhausen palace Where to eat and drink? The food in Hanover largely reflects
are on a scale to rival those of Versailles, and the royal gardens the personality of its citizens; honest, loyal to tradition and best
were the dream of Sophia of Hanover, mother of King George I. accompanied by a stein of hops. That last trait may not be true of
(For 123 years, the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Hanover were all, but is certainly so at restaurant and brewery Meiers Lebenslust.
ruled by a single monarch, and 2014 marks the 300th anniversary.) Its copper fermentation tanks are polished like the engine parts of a
A set of golden gates lead out to baroque labyrinths, Greek showroom Porsche, and the small list of hops include a chocolate-
statues throwing poses, and fountains that shoot clear above hued brew that is a perfect match for the overnight-roasted duck,
the treetops. After a look around the new museum, take which is both wonderfully crispy and tender (meiers-lebenslust.
the Stadtbahn back into town – you’ll surface at Kröpcke, de). In the shadow of the striking market church, one of the few
the near-geographic centre, and heart of the shopping and pre-war buildings to have survived largely intact, is the market hall.
snacking district. A couple of pretzel-fuelled paces away you’ll Nicknamed ‘The Belly of Hanover’, it’s where butchers, bakers,
find Hanover Opera House, a 19th-century neoclassical theatre cheesemongers and grocers line up alongside coffee bars, hops
that also hosts ballet, concerts and musicals (oper-hannover. stands and food stalls, serving everything from fresh-baked pizza
de). From here, either head west to the old town, where to paella, from seafood to sausages. It’s great value, so be sure to
Bavarian-style brauhauses (brew pubs) adorn the cobbled streets, arrive hungry. On the other side of the church, Broyhan Haus (00
or south to lake Maschsee. While in the depths of winter you 49 511 323919, broyhanhaus.de) is sticking with tradition, serving
may find the surface of the Maschsee populated by skaters, in up hearty regional classics in cosy, oak-timbered surroundings.
the summer its grassy shores are perfect for picnicking. Looking If you’re after something a little more chic, Clichy (00 49 511
across it, the Sprengel Museum houses one of Germany’s largest 312447, clichy.de), in the cute Leine neighbourhood, is a good bet.
collections of modern art (sprengel-museum.com). The river Leine Time running out? Take the sloped elevator up to the dome
also makes for a waterside escape, and on its banks the pretty of the New Town Hall (with its elegant Gartensaal bistro, pictured)
Leine Palace was once the seat of Hanoverian kings. for views that stretch to the Harz mountains.
Where to stay? Located opposite the central station, Grand Hotel Trip tip: NextBike is a great scheme available throughout
Mussmann (00 49 511 36560, grandhotel.de) occupies Hanover’s Germany, and with cycle lanes provided along almost every street,
top spot for seeing the city. Its spacious rooms have that German Hanover is well suited for two-wheeled tourists. (nextbike.net)
Travel information
Currency is the euro. Hanover is one hour ahead of GMT. Resources
Travel time is 9 hours. German National Tourist Board (germany.travel) offers useful
online guides and advice for planning a trip.
Getting there Visit Hannover (hannover.de) is the city’s own tourist office.
Photography by Hannover Tourismus
Lufthansa (lufthansa.com) flies to Hanover daily with one stop

from Dubai International Airport Further reading
Swiss (swiss.com) also flies daily with one stop from Dubai Sophia of Hanover by JN Duggan (Peter Owen, $24.76) gives
International Airport. a royal insight, as chronicled in Sophia’s memoirs and letters.
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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Clockwise from top
left: strolling through
CITY BREAKS cherry blossom en
route to a shrine;
Mount Moiwa’s
glittering views;
SAPPORO
downtown Susukino
has a buzzing nightlife;
deciphering the menus;
the TV tower; fresh
seafood; Susukino
Festival in summer
Beautiful spring cherry blossom, bustling ramen joints and world-class seafood make
the main city of Japan’s Hokkaido island worth the trip up north, says Michael Booth
Why go? During winter, the capital of Japan’s northern island of range of high-end Japanese hotel facilities, including a gym,
Hokkaido is a mecca for winter sports enthusiasts – its slopes less shopping mall and several restaurants.
than an hour away by bus from the city centre. When the season Where to eat and drink Sapporo has its fair share of fine dining
changes, around April, cherry blossom brightens up the streets establishments – such as legendary ‘kaiseki’ (multi-course)
and parks. Japanese also travel to Sapporo, Japan’s fourth most- restaurant Nakumi (00 81 11 210 6858), or Sushi Tanabe (00
populous city, just to taste the super-fresh crab or the legendary 81 11 520 2202, sushi-tanabe.com) – but it does casual that
miso ramen – and to escape the summer heat in Tokyo. much better. Hokkaido salmon is famous in Japan and some
What to do Gastronomy is where Sapporo excels, so start of the country’s best sushi can be found in Sapporo. Its other
your visit at Curb Market near Nijuyonken subway, which is the specialities are crab, Mongolian barbecue and ramen. Renowned
public part of the wholesale market. Wander around 60 stores crab restaurant Kani-Honke in Susukino (00 81 11 222 0018,
selling Hokkaido produce, including its famous melons and kani-honke.jp) offers delicate snow, hairy and king crabs. Ramen
seafood. Miyanomori International Museum of Art (miyanomori-art. Alley in Susukino is an accessible way into the local soup-noodle
jp) is housed in a shiny white building and displays a range of late scene, with 17 different ramen joints. Make sure you go to the
20th-century art from Japan and around the world. The landmark older, original half of the Alley – which is bisected by a road – as the
Sapporo TV Tower is located in Odori Park, a mile-long promenade first half, in the ground floor of an office block, is less atmospheric.
in the city centre where locals meet and stroll. There are plenty of Hokkaido is the home of miso ramen, one of the most addictive
festivals held here in warmer months too. For a blast of Sapporo substances on Earth, and the butter-corn ramen is good too.
nightlife, the central Susukino district offers pretty much all the fun Don’t miss the locally caught sea urchin and salmon roe at the
of Tokyo. great-value seafood restaurants in 100-year-old Nijo fish market
Where to stay Sapporo offers generally much better value hotels near Odori station. Jingisukan (Genghis Khan), the Japanese
than Tokyo, though many are somewhat staid in comparison. Cross answer to the Mongolian barbecue, is another Hokkaido favourite,
Hotel (00 81 11 272 0010, crosshotel.com) is the city’s trendiest in which mutton is cooked over a domed hot plate, along with
option. Located a few minutes’ walk from Odori Park, Susukino fresh vegetables. It gets pretty smoky, as do your clothes. Mini-
and the main railway station, it boasts a contemporary Japanese chain Jingisukan Daruma Rokuyon has a few of these restaurants
design. Also central, and more personal, Nakamuraya Ryokan is a located around the Susukino district (00 81 11 533 8929).
traditional B&B with tatami rooms and dinner served in your room Time running out? Mount Moiwa, 531m up, is where locals and
(00 81 11 241 2111, nakamura-ya.com). The city’s flagship hotel, tourists gather to marvel at Sapporo by night. The peak boasts
in business since 1934, is the four-star Sapporo Grand (00 81 11 incredible panoramic city views and can be reached by cable car.
261 3311, lwhhotels.com/hotels/SapporoGrand). It is connected Trip tip A few words of Japanese will really help: the residents
Photography by JNTO; Mark Parren Taylor; Charmaine Grieger

by tunnel to the railway station and boasts the usual impressive of Sapporo tend not to have the English skills of those in Tokyo.
Travel information
Currency is the yen. Sapporo is nine hours ahead of GMT. Resources
Sapporo is approximately 12.5 hours from Dubai. Vanilla Air Japan National Tourism Organisation (jnto.go.jp) has a range
(vanilla-air.com) offers inexpensive domestic flights from Tokyo. of itineraries and information on festivals and events.
Getting there Further reading

Emirates (emirates.com) flies from Dubai to Tokyo daily. Hokkaido Highway Blues by Will Ferguson (Canongate Books,
Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) flies daily from Doha to $16.50). Fuelled by sake and ambition, Ferguson hitchhikes his
Tokyo. way across Japan following the emergence of cherry blossom.

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Clockwise from top
left: the famous local
pretzels; Race Street
CITY BREAKS Pier; the elegant
Society Hill
neighbourhood;
street art; an Amish
PHILADELPHIA
girl prepares
pretzels; hoagies are
a fast-food staple;
Spring Gardens; fine
dining at R2L; time-
honoured buildings
Known as the birthplace of America, the Pennsylvanian city is home to world-class

museums and galleries and has a fine culinary scene to boot, says Esme Fox
Why go? Situated just a couple of hours away from New York, If you want to try Philly’s most famous snack of crusty rolls filled with
Philadelphia often gets overlooked in favour of the most famous sautéed rib-eye steak, fried onions and melted cheese, then head
of cities. However, it’s well worth a detour for a couple of days to to Pat’s King of Steaks (00 1 215 468 1546, patskingofsteaks.
discover just what the ‘City of Brotherly Love’, as it is nicknamed, com). Founded by brothers Pat and Harry Olivieri, said to have
is all about. A city of firsts – Philadelphia was home to America’s invented the steak sandwich back in 1930, it’s one of the best
first theatre, its first zoo and the world’s first computer – it’s both places in town. The crown for best cheesesteak is hotly contested
refined and edgy, and in addition to enjoying the elegant facades, and many locals claim Geno’s Steaks (00 1 215 389 0659,
you’ll find there’s plenty to discover. genosteaks.com) to be the top spot. For sophisticated, modern
What to do Philadelphia is well known as the birthplace of fare, it’s hard to beat Serpico (00 1 215 925 3001, serpicoonsouth.
America, so there are of course the must-sees – the Liberty Bell com), with award-winning chef Peter Serpico at the helm, offering
and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence elegant, seasonal dishes – stand-outs include deep-fried duck
was signed in 1776, as well as world-class museums such as The leg served on a potato roll. Or try Fork (00 1 215 625 9425,
Penn Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (penn.museum) forkrestaurant.com), a light-filled space with an open kitchen and
and the Philadelphia Museum of Art (philamuseum.org) – America’s a vibrant, inventive menu. For one of the best places in the city for
first art museum. However, if you only have time to see one, then brunch, head to to Lacroix (00 1 215 790 2533, lacroixrestaurant.
you should head to the Barnes Foundation (barnesfoundation. com). Think elegant buffet tables filled with oysters, sushi and
org) – a first-rate art collection, which re-opened in 2012 after fresh fruit smoothies. Head back into the kitchens and you’ll find
moving to a new purpose-built $150-million complex. As well as everything from peanut butter pancakes to freshly baked waffles,
the historical and the classical, the city has its fair share of the Applewood smoked meats and chocolate fountains. Sounding
quirky and the unusual, such as the Eastern State Penitentiary more like a bank than a bar, Franklin Mortgage & Investment Co
(easternstate.org), the Mütter Museum (collegeofphysicians.org/ (00 1 267 467 3277, thefranklinbar.com) is a perfect venue for a
mutter-museum) of mysterious medical history, and unique vintage cocktail – an underground speakeasy, where 1920s-style artwork
shops, which are mostly found along North 3rd Street. adorns the walls and chandeliers light up the cosy booths.
Where to stay? Located right in the heart of the city in Rittenhouse Time running out? Philadelphia has more murals than any other
Square is the historic Rittenhouse Hotel (00 1 215 546 9000, city in the world thanks to its Mural Arts Program (muralarts.org/
rittenhousehotel.com) with its beaux-arts style, cosy yet elegant tour). Take the official tour, allowing you to step away from the
Photography by Douglas Friedman; Emma Wood; William Penn; Andrew Kahl/R2L;

lounges and famous afternoon teas. If you’re after something a bit tourist districts and discover different parts of Philly, as well as
more contemporary, the centrally located Hotel Monaco (00 1 215 getting a glimpse of the world’s largest outdoor art gallery.
925 2111, monaco-philadelphia.com) is a stylish choice, with its Trip tip For the best views over the city, check out R2L (00 1
eclectic, colourful guest rooms and rooftop lounge. 215 564 5337, r2lrestaurant.com) – a restaurant and cocktail bar
Where to eat and drink? Philadelphia’s rapidly evolving restaurant that serves up elegant dishes such as roasted Atlantic skate
scene is now attracting global attention, though many would still wing with fettuccine and clams, and meat and pancetta
prefer to head straight for an old favourite, the Philly cheesesteak. stew with winter squash and polenta.
Travel information
Currency is the US dollar. Philadelphia is five hours behind GMT. Resources
Travel time is 17.5 hours. Philadelphia CVB (discoverphl.com) provides detailed
R Kennedy and J Varney for Visit Philadelphia
information on all aspects of visiting Philadelphia.

Getting there
Emirates (emirates.com) flies daily to Philadelphia, with one Further reading
stop from Dubai International Airport. Food Lovers’ Guide to Philadelphia by Iris McCarthy (Globe
Etihad (etihad.com) also flies daily, with one stop from Abu Pequot,$15) is a comprehensive guide to the city’s food scene,
Dhabi International Airport. with the inside scoop on the best places to eat.

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Tried&Tasted
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS BOOKS HOTELS
Left to right: making the ganache, whisking, words of wisdom
Kempinski Grand & Ixir Hotel

Bahrain City Centre
I
t has taken almost 20 years of cooking but I have recently With a good ganache needing plenty of time to cool and solidify,
discovered a surprising passion for baking so the chance to pick chef showed us all how to heat the cream and pour it over the
up a few tips from a pastry chef with 30 years’ experience was an chocolate. Gently slicing the dome off the cake, I learned my first
opportunity to be jumped at. mind-blowingly simple trick to make cake decorating easier; turning
Chef Mohammed Qasim is a third generation pastry chef and five the cake upside down for a perfectly flat and smooth icing surface.
of us in the class makes for a friendly and intimate group as we Slicing it into three layers, it was time for trick number two; painting a
gather round an impressive array of top quality ingredients, to learn thin layer of sugar water syrup over each layer before spreading the
to make a delicious chocolate cake for Mother’s Day. Going back to ganache and adding another layer. Trick number three involved
basics, we were making this cake almost exclusively by hand and putting a big dollop of ganache on top and spreading it outward and
after donning gloves, which chef informs us should always be worn down the sides with a small palett knife. Putting the finishing touches
for cracking eggs to minimise the risk salmonella, we separate eggs to the cakes, we smoothed out the sides and formed little peaks of
and our first arm work-out begins with whipping butter, icing sugar ganache on top before dusting with a generous helping of cocoa
and egg yolks, one at a time, into a light and fluffy paste. Setting that powder. And voila, one deliciously rich and decadent but surprisingly
aside, it’s time to give our arms a break as we melt sugar into water, light chocolate cake.
before pouring it over deliciously aromatic cooking chocolate. Adjoining Saveur restaurant, the classroom is also directly
Next we settled into a whipping frenzy of egg whites and sugar opposite the Kempinski’s T-Spoon café, with a luscious wide
before sieving flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and high variety of mouth-watering cakes, appetising pastries and delectible
quality cocoa powder and folding it into the butter mixture, adding biscuits. And after a hard morning of cake baking, what better way
vanilla essence and the melted chocolate, before pouring it all into to end the experience then by sampling some of the goodies on
baking pans ready for the oven. offer? MH. $47.77. kempinski.com
Deli of the month…

WAFI GOURMET Dubai
Reviews by Marie-Claire Honeywill, Zoe Rodgers
It’s always interesting to judge a deli-cum-café/restaurant by the popularity of its

dining establishment. Let’s just say an empty restaurant doesn’t really encourage
shoppers. But with Wafi Gourmet there’s no such concern; bustling with hungry
diners, the delicatessen section is also well served by both shoppers and staff, the
latter of which are on hand to assist with enquiries and measure out the veritable
collection of Lebanese treats. Priding itself on tantalising and authentic Lebanese
cuisine, Wafi Gourmet’s counters are home to everything from sweet dates (stuffed
and otherwise), perfect petit fours and traditional Arabic sweets like maamoul to
packed-with-punch pickles, olives and vine leaves. A variety of nuts, herbs, jams,
rose waters, fresh fruit, vegetables and salads are further temptations. Mezze,
shawarma and a selection of other hot dishes can also be enjoyed by those looking
for immediate satisfaction. ZR. wafigourmet.com
FOOD & TRAVEL 107

Below, from left:
dining room and bar
at The Ivy; kitchens
and brunch goodies
at Spectrum on One
Restaurants
This month, we visit a Bahrain favourite, sit up to South American in Lima, and enjoy a
British classic in Dubai. And there’s always time for brunch…
Masso Bahrain
C
hef Susy Massetti is the kind of convivial host every restaurant should have: always
smiling, abundantly welcoming and veritably fizzing with excitement about both her
eatery and her food.
Sitting beside The Palace Boutique Hotel, this gourmet treat was the first stage of a refurbishment
that’s seen the, once tired, venue emerge as a bijou go-to. The décor very much matches the
Provencale cuisine, pale woods and scented lavender abound and though the big-table dining
experience much loved of Southern Europe is on offer, you can also sit cosily at a table for two or
enjoy the outdoor garden.
Food-wise, you cannot visit Masso without sampling the civiche, some of the best we’ve tasted, made
with a selection of local catch and with a warming chili kick which can take the uninitiated by surprise.
We’d also highly recommend the pumpkin ravioli, home made pasta in a rich tomatoey sauce topped
with shaved parmesan. Want to try it all? Go for the brunch which at $66++ per person offers a
selection of taster portions from the main menu. LO. +973 1772 1061 massorestaurant.com
Three for Friday brunch

The Ivy Spectrum on One Anise
Dubai Dubai Dubai
Reviews by Anthea Gerrie, Zoe Rodgers, Liz O’Reilly
Live jazz, mouth-watering dishes, A mainstay in the brunch scene, there are Anise’s light, bright and spacious layout
impeccable service and a vibrant, lively numerous reasons Spectrum on One creates an instantly inviting ambience,
atmosphere – all the ingredients for a remains not only one of the most popular, enhanced by the welcoming staff. The
perfect Friday brunch. The Ivy offers either but also one of the most lauded. With restaurant features eight live international
a three-course table d’hôte menu or a eight different culinary stations – including cooking stations (representative of the
signature eight-course degustation feast. Japanese, Indian, Arabic and European – eight points of the star anise) and chefs
Favourites such as The Ivy Full English, diners can embark on an international food also conjure up dishes to be delivered to
and fish and chips pepper the three- journey. New dishes are regularly added to diners’ tables – Peking duck pancakes,
course menu; bursting with flavour and an extensive offering which includes a raw succulently cooked meats and al dente
moreish to the end. On the extensive bar ice-packed with fresh seafood; pasta dishes being just a few of the
culinary journey you’ll find dishes including tempuras, satays, roasts and more. Staff options. Sushi, seafood, an extensive
scallop cerviche with sweet potato crisp, are attentive and helpful, and the cheese selection and a delectable dessert
and hot smoked salmon with horseradish restaurant’s intimate design makes for a counter complete the experience. ZR.
potatoes and beets. ZR. +971 4 319 vibrant atmosphere. ZR. +971 4 311 +971 4 701 1127,
8767, theivy.ae 8316, thefairmont.com/dubai ihg.com/intercontinental/hotels

Clockwise, from left:
Tried&Tasted
check-out Anise; the
timeless classics at
Rivington Grill; offerings
from Amaz
EAT
-
s gourmet New classics

Global
Amaz Lima Rivington Grill Souk Al Bahar
S
A plate of giant river snails isn’t necessarily what
ituated just a stone’s throw from the ever-busy Dubai Mall in the
you’d expect in sophisticated Lima, but Peruvian
Arabian themed shopping and dining hub that is Souk Al Bahar,
chefs are bent on pushing the envelope in their
Rivington Grill has firmly established itself as a bolthole for
native land. While others have taken Nikkei and
perfectly executed ‘back-to-basics’ British cuisine. The restaurant is the
Chifa – the Japanese and Chinese fusion cuisines
very antithesis of the fussy formalities so often associated with fine
of the capital – to the limit, others have been
dining. Instead it is a buzzing, vibrant and yet intimate space. Funky
exploring the hinterland, from the Andes to the
80s’-style neon lights punctuate the white walls providing pops of
Amazon and beyond. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino
colour and adding to the relaxed and casual vibe. Waiters dressed in
didn’t get into The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
jeans and open-necked shirts speed around, in time to the up tempo
by holding back, and having made his name in
music keeping apace with the kitchen that produces hearty, homely
Lima with Malabar, he has gone all-out to
dishes of the highest quality and with the utmost efficiency.
introduce the capital’s sophisticates to jungle
The menu is filled with the kind of crowd pleasing classics that have
food at Amaz. In the muted dining room, above
you loosening your belt buckle before you’ve even ordered. Favourites
and behind a bright, airy bar, where giant wicker
such as Welsh rarebit, beef Wellington, fish & chips, grilled Dover sole,
shades and sludge-green walls offer a nod to
apple & blackberry crumble and sticky toffee pudding are an instant
the menu’s regional origins, the churos – giant
draw to the eye. And you can’t help but raise a smile as you cast your
snails, drizzled with chorizo oil – are the thing to
eye over the dessert section and spot knickerbocker glory and banana
order. Carefully gathered by tribal folk in Iquitos,
split on the bill. Closer inspection of the menu reveals more intricate-
they are earthy and delicious, if a little terrifying
sounding dishes such as watercress lane scotch duck egg
to behold; tapioca pearls reinforcing the textural
accompanied by homemade piccalilli and sautéed chicken livers with
challenge the diner must face in tackling this
green lentils. But Rivington Grill’s success lies not in conjuring up
signature dish. The chonta, or heart of palm,
complex combinations but in delivering simple dishes packed with
salad is an easier swallow, as are the green
flavour and finesse. Its ‘pie of the day,’ in our case cottage pie, which in
bananas, served in combination with fish. But
its very essence is just minced meat and mashed potato, is delivered
don’t expect Amazonian ceviche – ‘I’ve still to
piping up to our table and has both gutsiness and depth of flavour yet
find a river fish I’m happy to serve raw,’
evokes a sense of comfort and warmth on a plate. The confit of duck
confesses Schiaffino. The experience is no worse
(another daily special) was equally bold in its flavour profile and
off for it. AG. 00 51 221 9393, amaz.com.pe
demonstrated a refined cooking technique that ensured the bird
remained tender and melt-in-the-mouth. Breaking through the crunchy
top layer of the fruity crumble revealed seasonal fruits carefully cooked
to release their sweetness and with just the right amount of bite, whilst
the sticky toffee pudding delivered in equally good measures of moist
sponge, thick, gooey sauce and guilty pleasure.
A constant influx of diners streamed through the restaurant, yet
tables were turned in a seamless fashion and our service throughout
remained attentive, efficient and unobtrusive. ZR. +971 4 423 0903,
rivingtongrill.ae

Show me the Monet Château de la Cazine, France
Did someone order a fairy-tale French château? If the ‘happily adjoining arboretum or bronze yourself by the pool. A
ever after’ look is what you’re seeking, Cazine pretty much cavernous spa is set to open in a smaller 16th-century château
has it nailed. This splendid 19th-century Gallic property, an within the grounds later this year, while a golf course and
hour’s drive from Limoges in France’s lake district, was once treehouse accommodation are also in the works. But don’t
home to a marquis and even secretly housed French hold off for a visit – with a three-Michelin starred training under
Resistance fighters during the Second World War. Completely his belt, chef David Boyer produces refined but never
refurbished in recent years, the 18 Louis XIV-styled suites are overcomplicated seasonal dishes, all served up in a dining
suitably extravagant, complete with rolltop clawfoot baths and room overlooking the green. Don’t sleep through breakfast
all the usual modcons. Get a rally going on the tennis court, either – Boyer’s exquisite homemade chocolate-hazelnut and
borrow bikes for a cycle around the bucolic local scenes that dulce de leche spreads are reason enough to set the alarm.
inspired many of Monet’s masterpieces, hike through the AM. Suites sleeping two from $150. chateaudelacazine.fr
DESERT DIAMOND Al Maha Resort and Spa, Dubai

With its bustling, cosmopolitan vibe and continual city sprawl
Places
This month we’ve visited a desert retreat in
been wowed in Doha, hung out in a Montreal
individually appointed and beautifully decorated with hand crafted

both up and out, it’s easy to forget that Dubai has risen from furnishings, accessories and antiques and each has a private deck
the desert. And it’s just as easy to forget that tranquility, and temperature controlled pool. At the restaurant multi-award-
isolation and an escape to nature can be found just a short winning chef David Miras serves up organic fine dining. And there
drive from the emirate’s high rises. Al Maha Desert Resort and is plenty to do, a simple stroll through Al Maha may lead to an
Reviews by Alicia Miller, Zoe Rodgers, Liz O’Reilly
Spa lies nestled within rolling dunes and date palms in the encounter with Arabian oryx or gazelles but nature walks, wildlife
225 sq km Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve, just 65km drives and desert safaris offer a more engaging insight into desert
from Dubai. Casting more than a passing nod to its heritage, life. It’s fair to say this journey into nature isn’t cheap, but what price
the resort is designed in the style of a Bedouin settlement. for an unforgettable Arabian adventure. ZR. Doubles from $1,497.
But there is no sense of roughing it here; the 42 suites are al-maha.com
FOOD & TRAVEL

Tried&Tasted
SLEEP
A distinct ‘wow’ W Hotel, Doha

With its achingly cool vibe, award-winning restaurants and on-trend nightspots,
you’d be forgiven for thinking you just might not be hip enough for the W Hotel,
Doha. But not only do the staff embody the brand’s ‘whatever/whenever’ service
standard but they’re also friendly and welcoming.
Any visit must include a trip to the Spice Market by chef Jean Goerges where
you’ll encounter a a buzzing atmosphere built around the exceptional Asian
fusion cuisine and the full-length bar. And the funky vibe continues in the rooms
which bear names such as Spectular, Marvellous and the Wow Suite – my
personal favourite has a swinging chair hanging from the ceiling, circular bed
enveloped in a tassel curtain and everything is operated at the touch of a remote
control button. It’s all slightly Austin Powers but in the best possible way and
great fun. LO. Doubles from $199, whoteldoha.com
to stay
CULINARY STYLE
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr,
Abu Dhabi
Abu Dhabi is promoting arts, culture
and design and with its striking
Dubai, frolicked at a French château near Limoges; contemporary design and prime
mecca and discovered culinary diversity in Abu Dhabi location at the mainland gateway to
the UAE’s capital, the Fairmont Bab
Al Bahr fits easily within this remit.
The clean, sharp lines of its exterior
give way to modern styling in the
vast, glass-fronted and high-
ceilinged lobby. The guest rooms
Québécois queen and suites, 369 in total, also abound
HOTEL GAULT, MONTREAL, CANADA with a luxuriant and contemporary
In the historic Old Montreal district, there’s no
elegance, with any crisp lines
shortage of trendy shops and hip restaurants,
diffused by curvaceous sofas and
with equally hip places to stay. Hotel Gault is one
tables. But the hotel’s design is not
of the best. Minutes from Montreal’s most popular
the only element that can be
sights and encased in the shell of a 19th-century
described as distinctive. With an
textile importer, there are 30 chic, spacious
executive chef, Cladys Magagna,
rooms, many preserving original wrought-iron
who was crowned Executive Chef of
columns or exposed brickwork. Some suites
the Year at Abu Dhabi Gourmet
boast balconies and moveable divides that allow
2014 and a restaurant line up
you to configure the space. Sip a coffee by the
including Frankie’s and Marco Pierre
lobby fireplace; this area segues seamlessly into a
White Steakhouse & Grill, the
cocktail bar as evening approaches. Sleep deep
culinary offering from the hotel
on mattresses custom made in Quebec, then rise
leaves a lasting impression too. ZR.
to a breakfast of pancakes drenched in maple
Doubles from $258. fairmont.com/
syrup. AM. Doubles from $164, hotelgault.com
abu-dhabi/

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Tried&Tasted
READ
Books
This month we leaf through an offally good
book on tripe, sail the high seas, cook Chinese
from Manchester and make our own yoghurt
Book of Tripe by Stéphane Reynaud Sweet Mandarin Cookbook by Helen and Lisa Tse
While many of us are quite happy to eat offal in the safety of a restaurant, It is a too-often quoted food cliché that every dish tells a story, but in
where it’s prepared by an experienced chef, making it at home is another Helen and Lisa Tse’s case, it really does. Having made a home, and set
matter. But it is all those ‘other’ bits – gizzards and kidneys, brains and up their Sweet Mandarin restaurant in Manchester, UK, as the third
feet – that are the subject of French chef Stéphane Reynaud’s latest generation of a line of passionate female cooks, each of their recipes is a
cookbook. Reynaud has a real passion for animal anatomy, and writes small evolution of the one that was passed down to them. There are
about offal with an infectious enthusiasm. Besides recipes – which range many recipes in here that you’ll recognise – sesame prawn toasties,
from tripe salad or roasted tails to lamb brains meunière and cow udder crispy aromatic duck and chicken chow mein, and many more that you
with sauce gribiche – the book offers solid background information on might not, including winter melon and wolfberry soup, celebration lobster
various forms of offal, including where to buy and any important noodles and asian-style beef burger. Whatever the dish though,
preparations for cooking. AM. Murdoch Books, $33.16. memories make up the key ingredients. AA. Kyle Books, $31.48.
The Creamery Kitchen by Jenny Linford Down to the Sea in Ships by Horatio Clare
So you make your own jam? Big deal. Ambitious home cooks are now Horatio Clare is a man enraptured by the sea – and the variety of people
branching out into making their own dairy products – and Jenny Linford’s who have long inhabited this vast and uncertain place. A guest aboard
book is the perfect introduction to the art. Linford lays out the essentials two Maersk container ships – the first from Felixstowe to Los Angeles via
in making your own butter, sour cream, yoghurt, mascarpone and more – Suez, the second from Antwerp to Montreal – the ‘writer in residence’
and once you taste how good the fresh stuff is, you’re likely to be opens more than a porthole on the shipping industry, whose (mostly)
hooked. Best of all, most of it is so simple, you’ll wonder why you’ve not men battle storms, pirates and sheer boredom to sustain those on dry
done it before. Naturally, Linford has also included a number of recipes land. But this is no lumbering albatross – copper, cars, diamonds, even
that allow your freshly made dairy to shine – including buttermilk-fried narcotics… remember, it all goes by sea. And with an obsessive
chicken, yoghurt gelato, cream cheese and olive parcels, and fig and attention to detail, Clare captures the tales, trials and musings of mariners
honey ricotta cheesecake. AM. Ryland Peters & Small, $28.17. that would otherwise be lost to the tides. JW. Chatto & Windus, $33.16.
BEST OF THE REST

Veg Journal by Charles Dowding Friends Around the Table
Reviews by Alex Allen, Alicia Miller, James Williams
by Acland Geddes & Pedro da Silva

Charles Dowding is the UK’s leading expert in organic,
Megan’s restaurant and deli is a little slice of the
no-dig gardening, and this handy month-by-month
Med in Chelsea, UK. This cookbook is bursting
guide details all his essential steps to ensure your
with the flavours of warmer climes, such as buffalo
vegetable harvest is more bountiful and varied than
mozzarella with peperonata and rosemary ciabatta
ever. AM. Frances Lincoln, $24.85.
croutons. AM. Ryland Peters & Small, $33.14.
Bottoms up in Belgium by Alec le Sueur Lemon Compendium

On a quest to explore the commonly held view that by Yasemen Kaner-White
Belgium is boring, and to know more about its brews As much a paean as a compendium, this book
than can be learnt from a hops advert, Le Sueur visits devotedly divulges all that is lemon-related, from
chicken-singing contests, attends Rimpelrock, a music poetry and proverbs to an impressively researched
festival for OAPs, and goes drinking with Trappist monks. recipe section – there is nothing you can do with
AA. Summersdale, $14.90. a lemon you won’t find here. AA. Parmuto, $41.

THE
COLLECTION
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml
In season – Radishes
pages 20-25
Radish, crab, orange and

lime salad
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
You could use a radish assortment

for this dish. Use naturally brewed
soy sauce – there’s a noticeable
difference in taste quality to mass-
produced, non-brewed sauce.
2tbsp rice wine vinegar

1tbsp caster sugar
1 orange, segmented, any juices
saved
2 limes, segmented, any juices
saved Steamed heritage radishes
2tsp naturally brewed soy sauce with mustard and chervil
2 spring onions, shredded finely dressing
and put into cold water SERVES 6
1 long red chilli, deseeded and
finely chopped These are perfect served with Radish meze 1tbsp olive oil
1 bunch round radishes, steamed white fish or prawns. SERVES 6-8 10g coriander, leaves taken
trimmed and thinly sliced off stem, half of them roughly
100g ready-to-eat white crab 2 bunches mixed coloured Serve these three meze with a chopped
meat (preferably Cornish) heritage radishes, with leaves selection of saucisson sec. toasted flatbreads, to serve
6 sprigs small mint leaves
½ bunch Thai sweet basil, For the dressing For the French-style radishes For the French-style radishes, put
leaves removed from stalks and 1tsp Dijon mustard 100g goat’s butter, room the butter in a small bowl, smooth
chopped 1tbsp white wine vinegar temperature off the surface and put in the
100-200g ready-to-eat crab 4tbsp extra virgin olive oil pink Himalayan salt crystals fridge for about 1 hour to firm up.
claws (optional) 5g chervil, any thick stalks 1-2 bunches French breakfast Put the salt in a bowl and
discarded, all but a few leaves radishes, trimmed let your guests eat in the usual
Put the vinegar, sugar and any chopped French way by cutting a deep
reserved juices from the orange For the pickled radish cross in the base of the radish
and limes into a small saucepan. Whisk together the mustard, 200g radishes, trimmed and inserting a small pat of cold goat's
Bring to a simmer to reduce and vinegar and olive oil and add the finely sliced butter in the cross and then
intensify the flavour and thicken a chopped chervil. Whisk in 1tbsp 2tsp sea salt flakes dipping in the salt.
little to a syrup. Cool completely, of cold water until combined. 150ml white balsamic vinegar To make the pickled radish, put
then add the soy sauce. Trim 1 bunch of radishes of 75g caster sugar radishes and salt in a bowl and
Drain the spring onions and their root ends and leaves. Put 15g bunch dill, thick stalks leave for 20 minutes. Rinse well.
put in a serving bowl with the both bunches in a large steamer. discarded and the rest chopped Combine vinegar and sugar, stir
chilli, radishes, orange and lime Place over a pan of boiling water to dissolve and add the radishes
segments. Break the white crab and cook for 5 minutes until the For the salsa and dill. Leave to sit for another 20
meat over the salad and add the radishes are just tender but still 1 bunch radishes, topped and minutes. Drain to serve.
mint and basil and the dressing retaining some colour and crunch. tailed To make the salsa, chop the
and toss. Add crab claws, if Tip the radishes into a bowl, 4 spring onions, finely chopped radishes into small dice, tip into
using, and serve. toss with the dressing and the 1 fat red chilli, deseeded and a bowl and add the other
whole chervil leaves. Serve. finely chopped prepared ingredients and serve
juice of 1 lime with toasted flatbreads.

RECIPES
Radish, pea, cucumber

and herb leaf salad with Tortelli town Delicate desires
torn mozzarella pages 26-38 pages 40-45
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR
6 AS A SIDE
Sbrisolona Mantovana
Raid the garden for any fresh SERVES 8
salad herb leaves such as salad
burnet, oregano – which is full This popular Mantuan dessert is
of flavour at this time of year – like a flattened, crunchy crumble
buckler leaf sorrel and ivy-leaved cake with nuts. Perfect with tea
toadflax. If you don’t grow salad or coffee, you just break it into
herbs then a good selection from pieces and eat. This recipe comes
the market will work too. from chef Vera Bini at Aquila Nigra
Restaurant in Mantua.
150g peas in pods (or 75g ready
podded) 175g sugar
50g mangetout 175g roughly chopped almonds
1/3 cucumber, peeled in stripes 150g ‘00’ flour
large bunch French breakfast 150g fioretto (very fine grain
radishes, topped and tailed maize flour or polenta)
1tbsp white wine vinegar 150g butter Passion fruit and chocolate, broken into cubes
½tsp caster sugar 3 egg yolks raspberry millefeuilles 4tbsp double cream
2tbsp olive oil ¼tsp vanilla extract MAKES 8 20g butter, cut into small cubes
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil 9 passion fruits
2 x 125g buffalo mozzarella Preheat the oven to 150°C/ Freeze-dried fruit powders are about 50ml shop-bought
1tsp dried green peppercorns, 300°F/Gas 2. available online, including at passion fruit and mango juice
lightly crushed Mix all the ingredients together souschef.co.uk. If you can’t get an 1 large egg yolk
5g mixed herb leaves as in a large bowl until they form ice cube tray as described below, 25g caster sugar
suggested above, or a blend of a dough. Pat the dough into a use a shallow container and line 1tbsp cornflour
flat-leaf parsley, oregano and flat pie dish or a baking dish, with carboard and cling film to the
rocket ungreased. Bake for around size needed. For the topping
30-40 minutes or until lightly icing sugar
Shell the peas. Shred the browned or golden. For the filo crisps freeze-dried passion fruit powder
mangetout by stacking 4 Allow to cool before serving. 3-6 filo sheets (or enough
together and slicing into 3 Store in an airtight container. to make 24 rectangles as 2-4 oven sheets, for baking
pieces, lengthways at an angle. described in the method) the filo
Blanch the peas in boiling salted 100g clarified butter, melted 26cm x 9cm x 3cm-deep
water for 30 seconds then add 125g icing sugar aluminium fridge freezer ice
the mangetout for a further 30 cube tray (plastic cube maker
seconds. Drain and refresh in cold For the passion fruit custard layer removed)
water. Put in a serving dish. 9 passion fruits piping bag with 1cm plain nozzle
Cut the cucumber into 4 about 100ml shop-bought 1 x 6cm x 4cm striped
lengthways then thinly slice across passion fruit and mango juice cardboard stencil, with stripes
and add to the serving dish with 50g icing sugar measuring 5mm
the peas and mangetout. Slice 2tbsp custard powder
the radishes diagonally and also 150ml double cream To make the filo crisps, preheat
add to the dish. 3 sheets of leaf gelatine, soaked the oven 180°C/350°F/Gas 4.
Mix together the vinegar and in water for 5 minutes Turn 2 baking trays over so they
sugar in a bowl and gradually are flat and lay a sheet of baking
whisk in the oils to emulsify. For the raspberry jelly layer parchment over each. Lay out 1
Drain the mozzarella and tear 150g raspberries sheet of filo on a wooden board
over the salad, scatter over the 4tsp caster sugar and brush with melted butter. Sift
pepper and herb leaves and juice of ½ a lemon over a good even covering of icing
just before serving pour over about 50ml shop-bought sugar and top with another filo
the dressing and toss the salad. raspberry and apple juice sheet and repeat with butter and
Scatter with sea salt crystals just 1¾ sheets of leaf gelatine, icing sugar. Top with a final sheet
before you eat. soaked in water for 5 minutes of filo and brush on butter and sift
over icing sugar.
For the passion fruit crème Trim the edges straight and cut
mousseline layer into 6cm x 4cm rectangles, as
75g good-quality white many as you can get as it varies

RECIPES
depending on the size of the to the warm juice, stir well to

filo (it helps to make a template; dissolve and pour into the rest of
you need 24 but some may get the raspberry mixture. Cool for 5
broken. If you need to make more minutes then pour over the set
repeat the above using three more custard in the fridge. Chill again for
filo sheets). Transfer the squares 3 hours or overnight until set firm.
to the two prepared baking trays. To make the passion fruit crème
Cover each tray with another mousseline layer, put the white
sheet of baking parchment, then chocolate, double cream and
top with another baking tray and butter in a bowl over a pan of
then a roasting tin for extra weight. barely simmering water (don’t let
Bake a batch at a time for 15 the base touch the water) and
minutes until evenly golden. heat for 4 minutes. Remove from
Leave to cool completely for the pan and stir until completely
about 20 minutes before removing melted and put to one side. Cut
the top tin and tray. Once totally the passion fruits in half and Raspberry and mango the meringue to create a pastel
cool store in an airtight container scoop the flesh out into a mini swirl meringues shade, or more if you want a
between fresh sheets of baking processor/blender. Whizz to MAKES 16 stronger colour. Fold in gently.
parchment if not using right away. loosen the pulp from the seeds Fit the two-coloured icing bag
To make the passion fruit and pour into a sieve set over a Online you can buy powdered with a star nozzle and fill one side
custard layer, line the ice tray measuring jug and use a ladle in food colouring (try squireskitchen. with the white meringue and the
mould with cling film so there is an a circular motion to push all the com) and freeze-dried fruit other side with the pink meringue.
overlap. Cut the passion fruits in pulp through. Add enough of the powders (we used souschef. Pipe 16 swirls to an approximately
half and scoop the flesh out into bought juice to make up to 150ml. co.uk). You don’t need a duo 3.5cm diameter and bake for an
a mini processor/blender. Whizz Put a tablespoon of the juice in colour icing kit for the recipe hour. Take them out of the oven
to loosen the pulp from the seeds a bowl and mix in the yolk, sugar (though Lakeland sells one) – you and if they crisp up in the cold air
and pour into a sieve set over a and cornflour and put the rest could just put the two colours into and lift off the tray easily they are
measuring jug and use a ladle in of the juice in a saucepan. Heat one bag to pipe. However, the done – if not give them a further
a circular motion to push all the on low for 2 minutes then pour result won’t be as neat. time in the oven and test again.
pulp through. half over the egg mixture and stir Remove and put on a wire rack to
Add enough of the bought juice well, put back into the pan and 4 egg whites, each kept separate cool completely.
to make up the liquid to 200ml. stir constantly for about 3 minutes 4 small pinches cream of tartar During the hour they are baking
Put 1tbsp of this mixture in a bowl to thicken then remove from the 220g caster sugar make the next batch of meringues,
with the icing sugar and custard heat. Stir in the chocolate mixture pinch powdered rose colouring clean all equipment used and fit a
powder and mix until smooth. Add and cool before chilling in the pinch powdered marigold fresh icing bag with the clean, dry
the cream to the juice in the pan fridge for 3 hours or overnight. colouring nozzle. Repeat the above method
and heat to just below boiling. To assemble the millefeuilles, up 75g 70 per cent dark chocolate, using, this time, the marigold
Pour half into the bowl of icing to a maximum of 1½ hours before broken into cubes colouring. Bake in the same way.
sugar and custard and stir well, serving, unmould the jelly and 300ml double cream When all the meringues are
pour back into the pan and stir custard onto a board then invert freeze-dried raspberry powder, cooked and completely cooled
constantly for about 3 minutes it gently so the jelly is on top. Cut to dust melt the chocolate in a bowl over
to thicken and remove from the into 8 rectangles 6cm x 4cm and freeze-dried mango powder, to a pan of barely simmering water
heat. Take the gelatine out of the arrange on top of 8 of the filo dust so the base doesn’t touch the
soaking water, squeeze and add crisps and chill. water. Heat for 4 minutes.
to the hot custard mixture, stir Spoon the passion fruit crème large size duo-colour or two- Remove the bowl from the
well and pour into the lined ice mousseline into a piping bag tone icing bag or kit heat and stir the chocolate until
tray and leave to cool. Chill in the fitted with a plain 1cm nozzle. Lay completely melted. When cool
fridge for 3 hours or until set firm. out 8 more filo crisps and pipe 4 Preheat oven to 110°C/225°F/ but still liquid, dip the base of
To make the raspberry jelly mounds along the longest sides Gas ¼. Line 2 oven trays with each meringue into the chocolate
layer, put the raspberries in a mini and 3 along the shortest. If there baking parchment. and sit them on their sides until
processor/blender with the sugar is any crème mousseline left pipe Prepare one icing colour the chocolate sets hard.
and lemon juice and whizz to a into the centre. Carefully place on combination at a time. Take 2 To assemble, a maximum of
purée. Pour into a sieve set over top of the jelly layer. medium-sized bowls and put an 1½ hours before serving, whip
a measuring jug and use a ladle Dust 8 more filo crisps thickly egg white in each along with a the cream sufficiently for soft
in a circular motion to push all the with icing sugar and using the tiny pinch of cream of tartar. peaks to form – it needs to be
pulp through. Add enough of the striped stencil layed on top, sift Measure out 2 lots of sugar of just firm enough to sandwich
bought juice to make up to 150ml over the passion fruit powder to 55g each. Whisk the whites to the meringues together using a
and pour a little into a small pan create yellow stripes. Do the rest soft peaks and whisk the sugar teaspoonful. Sift the raspberry
and heat to just warm. in the same way then carefully into each batch a little at a time powder over the duo rose-white
Take the gelatine out of the arrange each one on top of the until glossy and stiff. meringues and mango over the
soaking water, squeeze and add piped mousseline. Put in a cold Immediately add a pinch of marigold-white ones. Keep cool if
place until ready to serve. rose colouring to one bowl of not serving immediately.

RECIPES
water in a medium saucepan over sugar then add the butter. Put on
a low heat. When the sugar has a high heat to melt the butter and
dissolved turn up the heat and when bubbles just start to appear
boil for about 5 minutes to a rich remove from the heat and shoot
caramel. Take off the heat, carefully in the flour from the parchment
add the cream, stir well and cool all in one go. Stir vigorously with
for 5 minutes. Take the gelatine out a wooden spoon until all specks
of the soaking water, squeeze and of flour have gone but just until
stir into the hot liquid. the mixture is smooth. Leave to
Put the cream cheese in a cool for 5 minutes before beating
bowl and whisk in the vanilla in the eggs, about a quarter at
bean paste until smooth. Add the a time, with a wooden spoon.
caramel mixture, stir well and leave Make sure before you add more
to cool for 30 minutes. Pour into egg that the mixture is very stiff
the square pans and put in the and the previous eggs completely
Salted caramel and fridge overnight to set. Mini rose éclairs incorporated. (You can use an
hazelnut cheesecakes To assemble, up to a maximum MAKES ABOUT 28 electric whisk if you prefer.) You
MAKES 16 of 45 minutes before serving, might find you don’t need to add
line a large tray with foil and put While 28 éclairs may sound like all the last portion of egg if the
You can buy the mini square a cocktail stick in each hazelnut. a lot, any less dough isn’t worth mixture is already stiff and glossy.
pans online, including from Alan Un-mould the cakes and place embarking on. But, you can make Line a baking sheet with baking
Silverwood (code 12284). them on a wire rack. Have a sink larger éclairs from this recipe parchment and fit a piping bag
full of cold water ready to dip the instead, if wished. We’ve iced half with a plain 1.5cm nozzle. Pipe
For the bases base of the pan into to stop the the éclairs in caramel topping, and approximately 28-30 x 5cm
150g plain digestives, finely caramel going too dark. half in fondant. lengths diagonally onto the
ground Put the sugar and 4tbsp of prepared sheet. Using a finger
85g butter water in a small saucepan and For the choux pastry tip dipped into the remains of
1tbsp light brown sugar, sifted dissolve the sugar over a low 60ml full-fat milk the egg, smooth the tops of the
heat. Increase the heat and boil 2tsp caster sugar choux. Bake for 15 minutes. Open
For the cheesecake layer for approximately 5 minutes to get 70g butter, cut into small cubes the oven door briefly to let some
200g caster sugar a golden caramel. Dip the base 100g plain flour, sifted onto a of the steam escape and bake
½tsp sea salt flakes of the pan in the cold water for sheet of baking parchment for a further 5-10 minutes until
300ml double cream a second. Pour a little caramel 2 large eggs, lightly beaten the éclairs are firm and golden.
5 sheets leaf gelatine, soaked in onto one end of the foil-lined tray Tip onto a wire rack and cool
water for 5 minutes and tip so it spreads out thinly For the pastry cream filling completely. Store in an airtight
350g cream cheese for the shards. Use some of the 50g caster sugar container and use within 2 days
1tsp vanilla bean paste remaining caramel to drizzle the 2 large egg yolks so they remain crisp.
cakes in a zig-zag pattern with a 2½tbsp cornflour To make the pastry cream
For the topping pointed spoon. 4tsp rose water filling, beat the sugar, egg yolks,
16 lightly roasted skinned Sit the pan at an angle so the 100ml full-fat milk cornflour and rose water in a bowl
hazelnuts caramel doesn’t set on the base 150ml double cream until smooth. Put the milk and
200g caster sugar too quickly. Dip the hazelnuts one 100ml of the cream in a saucepan
at a time and let the excess drip For the caramel topping and bring up to the boil on a low
16 x 5cm mini square pans off, leaving a tail. Hold it for long 125g caster sugar heat. Mix half this liquid into the
16 cocktail sticks enough to harden then snip off the 4tbsp apple and raspberry juice egg mixture; stir well and pour
excess with scissors so they are 1½tsp grenadine back into the pan. With a wooden
To make the bases, heat the oven about 5cm long. Lay them on the 1tbsp rosewater spoon stir continuously on a low
180C°/350°F/Gas 4. Put the finely tinfoil while you do the rest. If the heat until turning lumpy, take off
ground biscuit crumbs in a bowl. caramel hardens too fast in the For the fondant topping the heat to stir until smooth. Then
Put the butter and sugar in a small pan hold at an angle over a low 100g white fondant icing put back on the heat and keep
pan and melt together. Pour over heat to melt again. 2tsp rosewater stirring to cook out the cornflour.
the biscuit crumbs and mix well. Pull the cocktail stick out of Add the remaining cream (50ml)
Put 4tsp of the mixture into the hazelnuts and sit one on top 80g tub of crystallised rose and stir over the heat for another
each individual square pan and of each cake. Break the hard pieces minute. Transfer to a clean bowl
press down to fill and flatten caramel off the foil into shards and and immediately cover the surface
the mixture to the edges. Bake stick them alongside the hazelnuts. piping bag with 1.5cm nozzle with cling film. Leave to cool
for 8 minutes and leave to cool completely before using.
completely. Wrap under the base To make the choux, preheat the To make the caramel topping,
and up the outsides of the mould oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 5. Put put the sugar, juice, grenadine and
with cling film. the milk, 100ml cold water, sugar rosewater in a small pan over a
To make the cheesecake filling, and a pinch of salt in a medium low heat to dissolve the sugar to
put the sugar, salt and 4tbsp of saucepan, stir to dissolve the a syrup. Bring to a boil on a high

RECIPES
heat for about 4 minutes, until

caramelised. Take off the heat
and put the base of the pan into
a basin of cold water to stop the
caramel darkening and wait for the
bubbles to subside. As it is easier
to dip these in the caramel before
cutting them in half, carefully dip
the tops of half of the éclairs
(about 14) one by one, put on a
wire rack and scatter a few rose
pieces over to set in the caramel
before it hardens.
It’s easier to fondant ice the rest
of the éclairs if you cut the tops
off first – so do this now, and line
them up next to the bases. Grate
the fondant icing into a small pan
and add the rosewater. Stir over
a low heat until smooth. Spoon Fraisier with orange
the fondant onto the tops of the MAKES 16
éclairs and then add some rose Pistachio and white Mix the egg yolks with 1tbsp
pieces to decorate. chocolate frangipane water and add to the mixture. This is a twist on the French
To assemble, a maximum of barquettes Lightly bring the dough together to classic fraisier, a strawberry
2 hours before serving put the MAKES 12 form a ball, flatten a little, wrap in gateau that includes pistachio
pastry cream filling into a piping cling film and chill for 10 minutes. marzipan. Here we have used
bag fitted with a 1.5cm plain Decorate these boat-shaped Roll out one piece of dough at ground pistachio nibs instead. You
nozzle. Using a serrated bread tartlets with chocolate curls. Bring a time to line each barquette tin, can buy a 16-piece set of 5cm
knife, cut the tops off the caramel- the chocolate to room temperature put them on a baking tray and chill (2-inch) cylinder moulds from Alan
topped éclairs and pipe 3-4 and use a vegetable peeler to for 10 minutes. Bake blind (using Silverwood (code 12384).
mounds of pastry cream filling create the curls. Buy barquette baking beans) for 10 minutes,
onto each base and put the tops tins online, including at nisbets. then lift out the beans and put 32 small to medium
back on. Pipe also onto the base co.uk. them back in the oven to cook strawberries
of the fondant éclairs and put their the bases and until the pastry is
tops back on. Put them all in a For the pastry pale golden. Cool and take them For the orange almond sponge
cool place before serving. The 175g plain flour out of the moulds and arrange 125g butter, softened
fridge does make the caramel 75g salted butter, cubed and on a baking tray. 175g caster sugar
sticky but that’s fine if you need to chilled Meanwhile, to make the 3 eggs, beaten
store them for longer. 75g caster sugar frangipane, put the white 50g plain flour
2 egg yolks chocolate in a bowl over a pan 100g ground almonds
of barely simmering water (don’t 2½tsp natural orange extract
For the frangipane filling let the base touch the water) and
40g white chocolate, broken heat for 2 minutes. Remove from For the chocolate ganache
into cubes the pan and stir until completely 4tbsp double cream
50g nibbed pistachios melted and put to one side. 50g strawberry-flavoured
50g butter, softened at room Put the pistachios in a mini chocolate, finely chopped
temperature processor or coffee grinder
50g caster sugar and grind to a fine powder. For the orange cream filling
1tbsp plain flour Put the butter and sugar in a 350ml freshly squeezed orange
1 large egg bowl and whisk until soft and juice (about 4 medium oranges)
creamy. Whisk in the flour followed 85g caster sugar
white chocolate curls, to serve by the egg, then mix in the ground 3 egg yolks
pistachios and melted chocolate. 1tbsp cornflour, sifted
12 x fluted 10cm barquette (boat Cover and chill this mixture for 30 2tbsp potato flour, sifted
shape) tins minutes until firm. fine zest of 2 oranges
Put 2tsp of the frangipane into 150ml double cream
To make the pastry, preheat your each barquette and bake for 10
oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. minutes until puffed up but not
Put the flour and butter in a golden. Take out of the oven and For the topping
bowl and rub together to form leave to cool completely on the
a breadcrumb texture with your tray. Decorate with chocolate curls.
fingers. Stir in the sugar. before serving.

RECIPES
25g pistachio nibs, finely ground 1tbsp of the juice in a bowl with Espresso succès to the egg whites a little at a time,
1tbsp icing sugar, sifted half the sugar, the eggs, cornflour MAKES 12 whisking between additions until
1tbsp freeze-dried strawberries, and potato flour and whisk. Put stiff and glossy, then fold in the
very lightly chopped the rest of the juice, sugar, and These layered almond meringue ground almond mixture. Put the
the zest in a saucepan over a gateau are a twist on the French meringue in a piping bag fitted
20cm square cake tin, low heat and bring to a simmer classic. It is important to use with the 1cm plain nozzle and use
buttered and lined with baking for 2 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes instant espresso powder (or a dot of any remaining meringue in
parchment then pour through a sieve onto else, freeze-dried instant coffee the bowl to secure the sheets of
16 x 5cm round cylinder moulds the egg mixture. Pour back into granules blitzed in a spice grinder). parchment onto the baking trays.
(see introduction note) the pan and cook on a very low You can buy a 16-piece set of Starting just inside the traced
heat stirring continuously with a 5cm (2inch) cylinder moulds from circles, pipe around towards the
To make the orange almond wooden spoon until very thick. Alan Silverwood (code 12384). centre to make flat discs. Bake
sponge, preheat the oven to Tip into a cold bowl and cover for about 30 minutes until they are
175°C/350°F/Gas 4. Cream the with cling film and leave to cool For the meringues crisp and come off the parchment
butter and sugar together until completely for 40 minutes. 75g icing sugar cleanly. Loosen them all and leave
pale and fluffy. Whisk in the eggs a Whisk the cream just until soft 50g ground almonds to cool. Once cool, take 1/3 of the
little at a time. In a separate bowl, peaks form and mix into the 2tsp cornflour discs and push them upwards
sift the flour and almonds together. orange mixture. Spoon or pipe 1tsp instant espresso powder into the base of 12 of the cylinder
Add to the mixture and stir to equal amounts of the orange 2 egg whites moulds. If some of the discs are
combine. Add the orange extract. cream over the ganache, to pinch cream of tartar too large, shave with a knife so
Spoon the mixture into the lined tin come above the strawberries by they fit well. Put the rest of the
and bake for 30-35 minutes until a centimetre. Place the rest of the For the meringue buttercream discs to one side.
firm to the touch and golden. sponge circles into each mould, filling To make the meringue
Cool for 10 minutes, then pressing very gently to position. 150g caster sugar buttercream, put 125g of the
remove from the tin with the Chill in the fridge overnight. 2 large egg whites sugar with 50ml water in a small
baking paper. Cool on a wire rack Up to a maximum of 3 hours pinch cream of tartar saucepan and dissolve the sugar
before peeling off the paper. When before serving assemble the 175g butter, cubed, left to over a low heat. Increase the heat
cooled completely stamp out 16 fraisiers. Whizz the pistachios with soften at room temperature a little and boil the syrup until a
circles using one of the cylinder the icing sugar in a spice grinder 1tsp instant espresso powder temperature of 121°C/248°F is
moulds as a cutter, then slice or mini processor to a fine powder. 2tsp coffee liqueur reached on a thermometer.
each circle in half horizontally so Take the moulds out of the fridge Meanwhile, put the egg whites
you have 32 sponge pieces. Push and leave for 10 minutes. Press For the topping and cream of tartar in a large bowl
half the sponge circles upwards downwards on the top layer of 1tbsp instant espresso powder and whisk until soft peaks form.
into the bottom of the moulds. sponge gently to unmould. Dust 1-2tsp icing sugar Whisk in the remaining 25g of
Cover the rest. the tops with the pistachio mixture, coffee-flavoured chocolate sugar, half at a time until stiff.
Cut the stem ends off the add some dried strawberries to beans With your whisks rotating
strawberries and slice lengthways the centre of each top and return carefully pour in the hot syrup,
into 4. Arrange the strawberry to the fridge to chill until serving. 12 x 5cm round cylinder moulds avoiding the beaters, and continue
slices around the sides of each (see introduction note) to whisk until cold.
mould with the point of the large piping bag with 1 x Whisk the soft butter, espresso
strawberry upwards, pressing 1cm-nozzle and 1 x 1.5cm and liqueur together then whisk a
gently so they stay in place. nozzle little at a time into the meringue.
Put in the fridge. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with
To make the ganache, put To make the meringues, begin by a 1.5cm plain nozzle.
the cream and chocolate in lining 2 baking trays with 2 sheets Pipe half the quantity of
a bowl over a pan of barely of baking parchment each. Mark meringue buttercream into the
simmering water (don’t let the out on the top sheets 36 circles prepared moulds and top with
base touch the water) and leave in total using one of the cylinder another meringue disc. Pipe the
to melt for 2 minutes. Remove moulds as a template. Turn the remainder into the moulds and
the bowl from the heat, and stir baking parchment over to avoid top with another disc. Chill for a
to combine completely. Cool the pencil marking the meringues minimum of 1 hour or overnight.
until just spoonable. Spoon the (you should be able to see the Up to a maximum of 3 hours
ganache into the centre of the drawn circles through). before serving, unmould by
sponge circles without disturbing Preheat the oven to warming the sides of each cylinder
the strawberries, and chill for 10 150°C/300°F/Gas 2. mould in your hands and gently
minutes until set. Sift the icing sugar into a small pushing downwards. For the
To make the orange filling, put bowl. Sift the ground almonds, topping add a chocolate bean
cornflour and espresso powder to each and mix the espresso
into another small bowl and mix. powder and icing sugar together
Put the egg whites and cream before sifting over each gateau.
of tartar in a large bowl and whisk
to soft peaks. Add the icing sugar

RECIPES
Sunday best
pages 46-51
separates. Remove from the

heat and allow to cool for a few
minutes. The whey will settle on
the bottom, leaving the clarified
butter at the top. Pour off the
warm clarified butter and then
discard the whey.
Put the egg yolks into a
rounded bowl with half the vinegar
reduction. Place over a pan of
barely simmering water, making
sure the base of the bowl does
not touch the water, and whisk
until the mixture becomes light
Eggs Benedict and fluffy. Be careful not to heat
SERVES 4 the mixture too much at this
vital stage as this will cause the
To make perfect poached eggs, eggs to scramble – remove the
Chilli chocolate slightly, wrap in cling film and chill the eggs must be very fresh. If the pan from the heat if necessary.
almond tarts for 10 minutes. eggs are older, the white won’t Slowly drizzle the warm clarified
MAKES 16 Roll out the dough and use to hold together to encase the yolk. butter into the eggs, whisking
line the 16 round tart tins. Put For a tear-shaped egg you need continuously over the heat to
Make sure you use Aleppo chilli them on a baking tray and chill a deep pan of boiling water with form an emulsion. As the sauce
flakes as they are both sweet for 10 minutes. Remove from the about 100ml of white wine vinegar. thickens you may need to add
and seedless. fridge; line the tarts with baking The vinegar acts to set the white a little warm water (up to about
paper and fill with baking beans. around the yolk. A good tip is to 50ml) if it becomes too thick,
For the pastry Bake blind for 18 minutes, then lift crack your eggs into cups and before continuing with the butter.
125g plain flour out the beans. Put the tarts back tip them gently, one by one, into Season with salt and pepper,
30g ground almonds in the oven for about 3 minutes the water. As they drop to the and taste to see if more vinegar
75g salted butter, cubed and until they are a rich, even, golden bottom of the pan the white will reduction is needed for your liking.
chilled colour. Cool and take them out of set on the outside creating the Keep warm until required.
1tbsp caster sugar the moulds. Arrange on a tray. desired tear shape. To serve, preheat your grill to
1 large egg yolk To make the filling, put the high. Add the vinegar to a deep
cream and dark chilli chocolate 100ml white wine vinegar pan of boiling water, and poach
For the filling in a bowl over a pan of barely 8 fresh eggs, at room the eggs as described in the
115ml double cream simmering water (don’t let the temperature introduction note – they should
150g dark chilli flavoured base touch the water) and heat for 8 slices of lightly smoked ham take about 2-3 minutes. While the
chocolate, broken into cubes 5 minutes. Remove from the pan 4 English muffins, halved eggs are poaching, grill the ham
50g white chocolate, broken and stir until completely melted, until crispy, and toast the muffins
into cubes and put to one side. For the hollandaise sauce on both sides. Place two muffin
Melt the white chocolate in the 100ml white wine vinegar halves on each plate, followed by
To decorate same way as the dark but for just 2 small shallots, chopped the sliced ham and the poached
Aleppo chilli flakes 3 minutes; remove and stir until a few sprigs of tarragon eggs. Finish with a generous
1 sheet edible gold leaf completely melted. Divide the chilli 8 black peppercorns spoonful of hollandaise sauce
chocolate mixture between the 500g unsalted butter over each egg.
16 x 6cm round fluted tart tins tart cases. One at a time, swirl 5 egg yolks
some white chocolate onto the Variations: eggs Florentine,
To make the pastry, preheat oven tops and, using a skewer, feather For the hollandaise, place the egg royal or lobster Benedict
190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Put the flour, it into the chilli chocolate. Scatter vinegar, shallots, tarragon and For eggs Florentine, substitute
almonds and butter cubes in a with a few Aleppo chilli flakes and peppercorns in a saucepan over spinach for the ham. For eggs
bowl and rub together to form put in a cool place until set. Store a medium heat and bubble until royal, replace the ham with
a breadcrumb texture with your in a container for a maximum of 3 reduced to about 2tbsp. Strain smoked sea trout and top the eggs
fingers. Stir in the sugar. Mix the days. When ready to serve, add a and set aside. with salmon roe. Or for something
egg yolk and 1tbsp water together flake of edible gold leaf. Melt the butter in a saucepan really indulgent, try a Lobster
and add to the mixture to form a and simmer it on a low heat for Benedict with spinach and the
dough. Lightly bring the dough about 5-10 minutes until it addition of a native lobster claw!
together to form a ball, flatten

RECIPES
1 bay leaf
2tbsp plain flour
500ml hot lamb or beef stock
150ml double cream
80g capers
a small bunch of flat-leaf
parsley, chopped
enough hay to wrap the leg

thoroughly
Anchovy-rubbed, hay- Preheat your oven to

baked leg of mutton with 100ºC/215ºF/Gas ¼ (or see left
parsley and caper sauce if you want to cook your meat in
SERVES 8-10 under 5 hours). Soak the hay in
cold water. While it’s soaking, start
Make sure you ask your butcher by making the anchovy rub. Place Grilled kippers with lemon Borough burger
for mutton that meets the exacting the anchovies, garlic, rosemary butter SERVES 4
standards drawn up by The and rapeseed oil into a pestle SERVES 2
Mutton Renaissance. These and mortar and grind to a smooth 4 x 200g beef burgers, 30 per
guidelines ensure a consistent paste. Open out your butterflied Kippered herrings (kippers) have cent fat content (ask your
quality. The sheep must be over mutton leg with the inside facing enjoyed a bit of a comeback in butcher)
two years old, have had a forage- upwards. Massage all of the recent times. This is partly due burger seasoning (see p126)
based diet, have sufficient fat anchovy paste into the meat to the British food revival but also 4 half-brioche or classic sesame
cover, and be matured (hung evenly and season with pepper. because of their low cost and seed burger buns
for at least two weeks). There Roll the leg back up and tie health benefits. Herring are an oily ½ iceberg lettuce, shredded
are certain breeds known for tightly with cooking string at 5cm fish high in Omega 3. To kipper 4 large thick slices of mild
producing delicious mutton – intervals. Season the outside with them, they are split down the back cheddar cheese
look out for Herdwick, Romney, sea salt and black pepper. and splayed open, then heavily 2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced
Blackface and Southdown. Heat a large heavy-based pan cured in strong brine before being 2 large gherkins, sliced
Ask your butcher to bone over a medium heat and seal the cold smoked for up to 16 hours, ½ small red onion, thinly sliced
the leg, removing the femur but meat, rendering out any excess traditionally over oak chips. into rings
leaving the shank bone in for fat from the outside of the leg. ketchup, to serve
presentation (it also gives you Continue this process until you’ve 2 kippers, opened out
something to hold on to when caramelised the meat all over. 50g softened butter For the burger sauce
carving). They should then Lay a large length of tin foil juice of ½ lemon 100g good-quality mayonnaise
butterfly the individual muscles, down on your work surface and 1tbsp chopped chives 1 large gherkin, finely diced and
opening them out sufficiently for place the wet hay generously brown toast, to serve squeezed dry
the anchovy rub. inside the foil, saving some for the 1 large tomato, deseeded and
Ideally you should bake the top. Lay the sealed leg gently on Unless you want the smell to linger finely diced
leg very slowly for 5 hours on to the hay and cover with the hay all day, open all the windows in ½ red pepper, roasted, peeled
100ºC/215ºF/Gas ¼, which you have saved. Wrap the leg up your kitchen. Preheat your grill to a and finely diced (good-quality
results in the leg being pink all tightly in the foil, adding several medium heat. store-bought preserved roasted
the way through and means more layers so that no moisture Smear half the butter over the peppers are fine too)
there is minimal moisture loss or is released during cooking. Roast opened side of your kippers. 1 red chilli, deseeded and
shrinkage. However, if time isn’t the mutton for 5 hours. Remove Melt the remaining butter in a finely diced
on your side, bake it for 3 hours at from the oven and rest the meat large ovenproof frying pan over a 5 drops of Tabasco sauce
140ºC/285ºF/Gas 1. for at least 20 minutes before medium heat and lay the kippers 1tbsp American-style mustard
You can find hay at a pet shop. unwrapping to carve. into the pan skin-side down. Place 1tbsp tomato ketchup
For the sauce, melt the butter the pan under the grill and warm 1tsp burger seasoning (see p126)
16 salted anchovy fillets in a small saucepan and cook the the kippers through for about 4
2 garlic cloves onions and bay leaf gently until minutes or so. Mix all the burger ingredients in
3 sprigs of rosemary, leaves the onions are soft. Add the flour Remove the kippers from under a bowl, then cover with cling film
only and cook for a further 2 minutes, the grill and place them back on and place in the fridge until ready
2tbsp rapeseed oil stirring often so it doesn’t catch. the hob. Squeeze in the lemon to use.
1 leg of mutton, femur removed Add the hot stock a little at a time juice and sprinkle over the chives. Preheat your oven grill to high.
and butterflied (ask your and stir constantly to avoid lumps. Baste the kippers with the lemon Heat a large griddle over a high
butcher to do this, see above) Boil and reduce until a gravy butter and then serve with brown heat. Season the burgers liberally
consistency is reached before toast and a grating of freshly with the burger seasoning and
For the sauce adding the cream and seasoning. milled black pepper. place them carefully in the hot,
50g butter Add the capers and chopped dry pan. You won’t need to use
1 large onion, sliced parsley just before serving. any oil as the fat in the burgers

RECIPES
will gradually release. meat. Repeat the process with the

Seal the burgers until well remaining cutlets.
caramelised on both sides, then Put the flour on to a large plate;
turn the heat down to low. If you the beaten eggs on a second and
like your burgers medium-rare, the breadcrumbs in a third. Press
allow the burgers to cook for one of the cutlets into the flour on
2 more minutes, turning them both sides, coating it well, then
a couple of times so they cook carefully shake off any excess. Dip
evenly. For well done, add another the floured cutlet into the egg and
3 minutes to the cooking time. then into the breadcrumbs. Cover
Remove the griddle from the the cutlet with a pile of crumbs
heat and allow the burgers to and then press down on it with the
rest in the pan. palm of your hand so the crumbs
While the burgers are resting, stick to the egg. Once you’re
slice the burger buns in half happy with the coating of crumbs
horizontally. Toast the buns lightly on the first cutlet, repeat with the
under the grill. Mix 4tbsp of the Breaded veal* cutlet remaining three. Chargrilled 1kg T-bone
burger sauce with the shredded with a fried duck’s egg, Preheat your oven to steak with apple-battered
lettuce and then distribute the anchovies and capers 180ºC/350ºF/Gas 4. Heat large onion rings
dressed lettuce evenly between SERVES 4 frying pan over a medium-high SERVES 4-6
the bases of the buns. heat and add the rapeseed oil.
Place the cheese on the Make sure you buy quality meat, To test if the oil is hot enough, T-bone steaks are made up of
burgers and put them under the and ask your butcher to French- add a couple of breadcrumbs. If two types of steak. On one side
grill until the cheese melts, then trim the rib bones, scraping them the breadcrumbs start to sizzle, of the T-shaped bone is the larger
place the burgers on top of the clean of meat, for a tidy finish. season the crumbed cutlets with sirloin steak and on the other is
lettuce. Place the sliced tomatoes This recipe is also suitable for a salt and pepper and place them the smaller fillet steak. The fillet
on next, followed by the sliced flattened-out, skinless chicken carefully into the oil. (If your frying muscle, because of its situation on
gherkins and red onion rings. Pour breast. pan is large enough you may be the carcass, does less work than
over a little ketchup and place the Rapeseed oil is great for this able to fry 2 cutlets at once.) the sirloin, which means it is more
bun lid on top. as it cooks at a high temperature Shallow-fry the cutlets for about tender and tends to cook slightly
without burning, and has a 3 minutes on each side, until quicker than the sirloin. So the
Burger seasoning delicate nutty flavour. they’re golden and crispy. Drain main thing to watch out for when
on kitchen paper to soak up any cooking a T-bone steak is not to
The seasoning is not only great for 4 x 250g veal cutlets, French excess oil, then place them on to overcook the tender fillet. If you
burgers. If you make up a batch trimmed a tray and into the oven to keep do want them cooked further than
and store it in a sealed jar in a 100g plain flour warm while you fry the eggs. medium-rare, finish them in the
cool dark cupboard it will keep for 4 eggs, beaten Drain the rapeseed oil from the oven for a few minutes rather than
a year. You can pull it out when 200g Japanese panko pan and add the butter. Place risk charring them too much on
you’re having a barbecue and use breadcrumbs the pan on a low heat. Once the the barbecue.
it for dusting chicken wings or 200ml extra virgin rapeseed oil butter has melted, crack all four
seasoning steaks. 50g butter duck eggs into the pan. Lay three 2 x T-bone steaks, about 1kg
4 duck eggs anchovy fillets into the raw white each
4tbsp soft light brown sugar 12 salted anchovy fillets of each egg, so that as the eggs 1-1½ quantities battered onion
1tbsp caster sugar 80g capers cook, the anchovies set into the rings (see right), to serve
3tbsp smoked paprika 1tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley surface of the white. Season 1 quantity béarnaise sauce
1tbsp sweet paprika the eggs with pepper. They (follow the recipe for
2tsp freshly milled black pepper Remove the rind and fat from the won’t need any salt as the salty hollandaise sauce on p124
4tbsp sea salt edge of each cutlet. Lay a sheet anchovies serve this purpose. and add 3tbsp chopped fresh
1tbsp table salt of cling film down on a solid area Once the eggs have cooked, tarragon), to serve
1tbsp garlic salt of work surface and place a cutlet remove the cutlets from the oven
1tbsp onion salt down upon it with the bone facing and place them on four warmed Preheat your oven to
1tbsp celery salt away from you. Place another plates. Place the eggs on top, 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Season
2tsp ground cumin sheet of cling film over the cutlet then add the capers and parsley the beef generously with salt
2tsp ground cinnamon and, using a meat tenderiser to the butter left in the frying pan and pepper and let it rest for 20
½tsp cayenne pepper or the bottom of a small solid to briefly warm through, before minutes, so that the seasoning
saucepan, give the cutlet a few drizzling over the egg and cutlet. penetrates the meat and it
Make the burger seasoning by solid taps, flattening it out to about *Recipe modified has time to come to room
mixing all the ingredients together, half its original thickness. Don’t temperature. Large steaks such as
then transferring to a sealed jar. bash it too hard. Many lighter this are much better cooked from
taps are more effective than a few room temperature. Meanwhile,
hard taps, or you risk tearing the prepare the barbecue. Allow

RECIPES
the flames on the barbecue to Apple-battered

die down so you’re left with hot onion rings East to west
glowing coals. Push the hot coals SERVES 4 pages 52-57
to one side of the barbecue, to
create a hot side and cooler side. Gluten- and wheat-free self-raising
Place the steaks on to the flour can make a batter retain
barbecue over the hot coals to fantastic crunch.
sear and seal the meat. The strip
of fat on the edge of the larger 300g gluten- and wheat-free
sirloin may flame a little as the fat self-raising flour, plus extra for
drips on to the coals, so keep rolling
moving the steaks around so the 500-600ml unsweetened apple
flames don’t burn the meat. Seal juice
both sides of the steaks until you 2 litres vegetable oil, for deep-
are happy with the caramelisation frying
you have achieved. If you wish to
cook the steaks to medium well or Make the batter by placing the
well done, place them on a tray in flour in a large mixing bowl. Add
the oven for 15 minutes or so. If the apple juice and mix it with the
you wish to cook the steaks less, flour using a balloon whisk to form
pull them to the cooler side of the a thick batter. Leave the batter to
barbecue and finish the cooking rest for 30 minutes.
here, turning them regularly so Set your deep-fat fryer to Potato and arish balls flour in a separate bowl and the
they cook evenly but don’t burn. 190°C/375°F. If you don’t have SERVES 4 breadcrumbs in a third bowl. The
Given the different cooking times a fryer, place the oil into a large, arish should be ready for use in
of the sirloin and fillet sides of deep saucepan, leaving enough Use gorgonzola dolce cheese if you its own bowl. Place all the bowls
the steak (see introduction note); room at the top to allow for rapid can't get arish, or mix your favourite close to one another in a circle
it’s a good idea at this stage to boiling when the onion rings are crumbly cheese with 1tsp sweet with a clean flat plate in the centre
hang the fillet off the edge of the added. Place the oil over a high paprika and ½tsp dried chilli flakes. for the finished product.
barbecue from time to time so it heat but be very careful that it Roll the potato mixture into 4cm
doesn’t overcook. It’s impossible doesn’t get too hot. If you have 4 large coliban potatoes (or balls (you should get about 8 balls
to give an accurate cooking time a cooking thermometer, use it so similar), peeled and cut into out of this mix). Stick your index
for the steaks because it depends you can regulate the temperature. 2-3cm cubes finger halfway into the centre of
on the heat of the barbecue. A Have to hand some kitchen paper 75g plain flour each potato ball to create a small
good indicator for medium-rare is and a slotted spoon to remove the 80ml milk hole. Place about 1tsp arish in
that when the steak has reached onion rings from the hot oil. (Don’t 1 egg each hole, then close the potato
this stage it will start to bleed try to use spring-loaded tongs; 100g dried breadcrumbs around the filling and re-roll the ball
slightly, and should be removed this can be very dangerous for 2tbsp arish cheese between your palms. Coat each
from the heat source to rest for at obvious reasons.) 250ml olive oil ball lightly with flour, them dip it
least 8 minutes. To test the batter, place some natural yoghurt for dipping in the egg wash before covering
Once rested, carve the sirloin more gluten-free self-raising flour (optional) liberally with breadcrumbs. As
and fillet carefully off the bone in a bowl and add one onion ring, you finish each ball, place it on
using the bone to guide your knife. coating it with flour so the batter Place the potato cubes in a the clean plate. Heat the olive
Carve the steak into slices about has something to stick to. Dip the medium saucepan and cover oil in a shallow frying pan over
1cm thick and place them back ring in the batter then gently lower with water. Bring to the boil, then medium heat. Add half the potato
against the bone in their correct it into the oil. It will float to the top reduce the heat to medium and balls and cook, turning once, until
position for your guests to help and will need turning over halfway cook for 15-20 minutes or until the golden brown. Remove and drain
themselves. Serve with the onion through, in order to cook the potato is tender enough to mash. on paper towel. Repeat with the
rings and béarnaise sauce. other side. If the onion emerges Drain and set aside to cool. remaining balls. Allow to cool for
with a good covering of crispy Place the potato in a bowl about 5 minutes before serving,
batter that is not too thick, then with the 2tsp salt flakes, 1tsp as they will be piping hot on the
start frying the rest of the rings in freshly ground black pepper, inside. Serve with natural yoghurt
small batches, being careful not 1tbsp flour and 1tbsp milk and for dipping, if you like.
to overload the fryer. If the batter mash all the ingredients together.
doesn’t coat the test ring, add a You don’t want the mixture to
little more flour, or if it is too thick, be too wet as it needs to be
add some more juice. Fry the shaped into firm balls. Make an
onions until golden brown and egg wash by whisking together
drain on kitchen paper. Season the egg and remaining milk in a
with sea salt and serve hot. small bowl. Place the remaining

RECIPES
spoon. Set aside to cool.

Roll out the dough on a floured
surface to a thickness of about
2mm, then cut into 5cm squares.
Place a teaspoon of filling in the
centre of each square. Dip your
finger into the milk and dampen
the border of the dough squares
with the milk. Fold the dough over
to create a triangle, then gently
press the edges together to
seal. Holding the dumpling from
the top corner, fold the left and
right corners to meet and press
Middle Eastern lamb together to form a tortellini
dumplings shape. Place on a floured surface
SERVES 6 until ready to cook.
To make the sauce, heat the
For a vegetarian variation, replace olive oil in a medium saucepan
the meat filling with cooked over medium heat, add the rice
Roasted beef patties and oil in a shallow frying pan over pumpkin, spinach and corn. and cook for a few minutes until
potatoes medium heat, add the potato it is no longer translucent. Add
SERVES 6 slices in batches and cook until For the dumplings the yoghurt, 2tsp salt flakes and
lightly golden on both sides. 300g plain flour cornflour mixture and cook for 4-5
70g tomato purée Remove and drain on paper towel. 560ml vegetable oil minutes, stirring to stop the rice
1tsp freshly grated nutmeg Place the tomato purée, 1tsp 1tbsp olive oil sticking to the pan. Add about
1tsp ground cinnamon salt flakes, ½tsp freshly ground 1 small brown onion, finely 500ml water to thin out the sauce,
1 brown onion, thinly sliced black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon chopped then reduce the heat to low, and
3 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced and 300ml warm water in a bowl 150g minced lamb cook, stirring every few minutes,
1 green pepper, seeds and and stir to combine. 1tsp seven-spice mix (see left) for 30-40 minutes or until the rice
membrane removed, thinly Preheat the oven to 200°C/ 60ml milk has softened. If the sauce seems
sliced 400°/Gas 6. Place a layer too thick, add up to another
of patties on the base of the For the rice and yoghurt sauce 250ml of water during the
For the kafta patties dish or tin and top with a layer 2tbsp olive oil cooking process.
300g lean minced beef of potatoes. Repeat with the 300g basmati rice, well rinsed Meanwhile, cook the
1 small brown onion, grated remaining patties, and then the 300-400g natural yoghurt dumplings. Heat the remaining
1 small handful flat-leaf parsley, remaining potato slices. Scatter 1tbsp cornflour mixed with vegetable oil in a medium heavy-
finely chopped the onion slices over the potato, 125ml water based saucepan to 160°C/320°F
2tsp seven-spice mix (see right) then the tomato and finally the 1tsp vegetable oil or until a cube of bread dropped
2tbsp olive oil pepper. Pour the spiced tomato 1 clove garlic, crushed in the oil browns in 25 seconds.
sauce evenly over the top, then handful of mint, freshly chopped Add 4-5 dumplings at a time (it’s
For the potato layer cover with foil and bake for 1½-2 important not to overcrowd the
250ml vegetable oil hours or until the potato slices To make the dough for the pan) and fry for about 5 minutes
3 sebagoor golden delight have softened completely. Serve dumplings, place the flour, 1tsp or until golden. Remove from the
potatoes, peeled and cut into with a green salad, such as tabouli. salt flakes and 60ml of the oil with a slotted spoon and drain
5mm thick slices vegetable oil in a bowl. Gradually on paper towel. Repeat with the
Seven-spice mix add enough water to bring it remaining dumplings. Cover and
33cm x 23cm greased baking MAKES ABOUT 120G together, then turn out onto a keep warm.
dish or roasting tin lightly floured surface and knead To finish the sauce, heat the
2tbsp ground black pepper for 5 minutes or until it is soft vegetable oil in a small frying pan
To make the patties, place the 1tbsp sweet paprika and smooth. Cover with plastic over high heat, add the garlic
mince, onion, parsley, seven- 2tbsp ground cumin film and rest in the fridge for 30 and mint and cook for about 5
spice mix, 2tsp salt flakes and 1tbsp ground coriander minutes. Meanwhile, to make the minutes until the garlic just starts
½tsp freshly ground black pepper 1tbsp ground cloves filling for the dumplings, heat the to turn golden. Stir the garlic
in a bowl and knead until well 1tsp freshly grated nutmeg olive oil in a large frying pan over mixture into the yoghurt sauce,
combined. Coat your hands lightly 1tsp ground cinnamon high heat, add the onion and cook then remove from the heat. Place
with olive oil, then form golf-ball- 1tbsp ground allspice or for 5 minutes or until golden. Add the dumplings in a serving dish
sized portions of the kafta mix into pimento (optional) the mince, 1tsp freshly ground and pour the yoghurt sauce over
thin patties (about 14-16 patties). black pepper, the seven-spice mix the top. Leave to sit for about 5-8
Put the patties on a plate, then Mix the pepper and all the and 1tsp salt flakes and fry until minutes before serving to allow the
cover and refrigerate until needed. ground spices together until the meat turns brown, breaking pastry to soften slightly.
For the potato layer, heat the well combined. up any lumps with the back of a

RECIPES
Spaghetti cooked in milk

SERVES 4
300g spaghetti
60ml olive oil
300g skinless chicken breast
fillet, cut into thin strips
1 brown onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2tsp freshly grated nutmeg Scallops and basturma
1tsp ground cinnamon drizzled with pomegranate
1 litre full-fat milk butter
1tbsp cornflour mixed with SERVES 6
250ml water
Also known as Armenian air-dried
30cm x 18cm x 6cm non-stick beef, basturma is a cured meat
baking pan coated in a blend of dried herbs,
garlic and spices, which varies
Cook the spaghetti in salted according to the origin of its
boiling water until al dente, creator. It should not be confused
following the packet instructions. with pastrami, which is cured and Shredded pastry with pan from the heat and set aside
Drain in a colander and rinse smoked. chocolate cream to cool at room temperature.
under cold water to stop the SERVES 4 Refrigerate for at least 4 hours
strands sticking together. 125ml vegetable oil to allow the chocolate cream to
Meanwhile, heat 1tbsp olive oil 6 x 5mm thick slices aubergine, Kataifi is a finely shredded pastry thicken and cool completely.
in a medium frying pan over high cut in half that looks similar to vermicelli Preheat the oven to 210°C/
heat, add the chicken strips and 2tbsp olive oil noodles, but has a beautiful 410°F/Gas 7. Line a baking tray
cook for 5-8 minutes, tossing to 12 fresh scallops, roe removed crunchy texture when cooked. with baking paper. Pull the kataifi
seal. Set aside. 12 slices basturma apart by hand to make it workable.
Preheat the oven to 300g kataifi pastry Ensure you are in a cool space,
210°C/410°F/Gas 7. Heat 1tbsp For the pomegranate butter 50g butter, melted without any breeze to dry out the
olive oil in a large saucepan over 80g butter, diced and softened 80g hazelnuts, crushed pastry. Pull off a small handful
medium heat, add the onion at room temperature 150ml ater (sugar syrup) of the pastry and loosely work it
and garlic and cook for about 1tsp pomegranate molasses between your palms to the size of
5 minutes or until golden. Add ¼tsp crushed garlic For the chocolate cream a tennis ball. Place the ball on the
the chicken, then the nutmeg, 1tsp lemon juice 600ml thickened cream baking tray and gently press down
cinnamon, 1tbsp salt flakes and 250ml milk to flatten it into a disc shape.
½tsp freshly ground black pepper To make the pomegranate butter, 250g milk cooking chocolate, Repeat with the remaining pastry
and stir to combine. Increase the mix all the ingredients in a food broken into pieces to make 20 discs.
heat to high and pour in the milk. processor, along with ½tsp freshly 2tbsp orange blossom water Using a pastry brush, lightly
Cook, stirring, for about 7 minutes, ground black pepper until combined. 50g cornflour blended with brush the discs with melted butter,
then add the cornflour mixture and Set aside at room temperature. 60ml milk to make a paste then place in the oven and bake
stir constantly to stop any lumps Heat the vegetable oil in a for 20-25 minutes or until golden.
forming. When the mixture starts medium frying pan over medium Start by making the chocolate Remove from the oven and allow
to thicken, reduce the heat to heat, add the aubergine and cook cream. Place the cream and to cool completely.
low and add the spaghetti to the until golden brown on both sides. milk in a medium heavy-based For each serving, place a
pan. Simmer gently for about 5 Remove and drain on paper towel. saucepan over medium heat and kataifi disc on a serving plate and
minutes, stirring from time to time Heat the olive oil in a small frying bring to just below the boil. Add top with 2tbsp of the chocolate
to stop it sticking to the pan. pan over medium-high heat and the chocolate and stir constantly cream. Spread the cream out
Pour the mixture into the baking cook the scallops for 2 minutes on until melted. Add the orange evenly, then gently place another
dish and even out the surface with each side to seal. Take care not to blossom water, then the cornflour disc on top. Sprinkle lightly with
a spoon. Drizzle the remaining overcook them. Set aside. paste and whisk vigorously to the crushed hazelnuts and serve
olive oil evenly over the top and To assemble, start with the stop any lumps forming. (If you with sugar syrup on the side so
bake for 20 minutes or until the basturma at the bottom, followed do not have a steel whisk, use a everyone can help themselves.
top starts to turn golden brown. by the eggplant and then the wooden spoon, but reduce the
Remove from the oven and rest scallops. Finally, place a small heat to low.) When the cream
for about 10 minutes before dollop of pomegranate butter on has thickened to the consistency
serving. Try serving with green top of each scallop and allow it to of pouring custard, remove the
beans dressed in olive oil. melt. Serve immediately.

AFTER HOURS
BobbyChinn
The New Zealand-born, Egyptian-Chinese chef and TV cook has just opened his first restaurant
in London, The House of Ho. He speaks to Alicia Miller about eating his way around the globe
I grew up at two ends of the world. So my idea of comfort

food is different to most people’s! I would visit my Chinese
grandma, who lived in Hawaii, and she would make wonderful
Shanghainese cuisine. When in Egypt with the other side of my
family, I ate molokhia, a green soup with okra. There was
nothing I wouldn’t try – I’d happily eat a fried brain sandwich.
Once or twice a year I go back to Egypt. I visit restaurants
such as Andrea, near the pyramids in an area of Giza called
Maryoutia, for grilled quail. I go to Farahat by Cairo’s Khan
al-Khalili market; the stuffed pigeon there is great. But some of
Above: a starter at House of the best food happens at home – vegetable dishes like the
Ho; Bobby Chinn. Below: local version of dolma, mahshi wara’ inab.
Bobby’s chicken wings I love Vietnamese food because it’s not fussy. It’s all
about combining incredible flavours, colours and textures to
create something exciting but simple. You can’t get a bad meal
on the street in Vietnam – and even if you do, what’s to
complain about when you’re spending $1.65?
The street food in Hanoi is something else. At Hang Da
Market, there is a place that does incredible bun bo, a rice
vermicelli and beef soup. On Ngu Xa street, you’ll find a woman
making banh cuon (steamed stuffed rice rolls). And at Chuc
Bac lake there’s a really good pho cuon (rice noodle rolls).
I’ve never met such a passionate chef as when I was in
Right: the Egyptian Chengdu. We were filming a show at a local restaurant, and
pyramids; street normally when people see cameras they act nice and sweet
food seller in
– not this chef. He was moving people with his hands, out of
Vietnam; Shanghai
skyline; delicacies at the way; every single dish out of that kitchen he was on top of.
the French Laundry He made what looked like a calligraphy pen – you’d dip it in a
sauce bowl like a palette and then bite it… then discover it’s a
pastry wand stuffed with vegetables cut as thinly as horsehairs.
The Asian food in London is good. Around the corner from
my restaurant in Soho I like the udon noodles at Koya (koya.
co.uk), and then there’s dim sum at Jade Garden
(londonjadegarden.com). It’s not fancy but that’s what I like –
casual places with great food. I’ve been to Hakkasan
(hakkasan.com) but it’s not somewhere for every day.
When the French Laundry first opened, I was working as
a chef and pulled a favour to get a reservation. When we
arrived, embarrassingly my girlfriend started complaining about
the table. When asked by the maître d’ where she’d prefer, she
said outside. Without a word they made us a table in the
garden, and we watched the late afternoon merge into sunset
and then the stars come out. It was an incredible meal.
Iran hasn’t been given enough credit for its contribution to
world cuisine. The Persians taught the Indians how to make
biryani, after all. I’m dying to go and we’re hoping to film there
later this year. There’s this one dish with eggplant and dried
yoghurt – my idea of heaven. houseofho.co.uk
128

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Gourmet travels in COOKERY

ELEGANT APRIL 2014

Recipes Restaurants Places to Stay Darren Velvick Bobby Chinn

Food and Travel, UK

Exclusive Opening Rates starting from OMR 70* per night,

STARTERS AND MAIN COURSES

116 Radish, crab, orange and lime salad

DESSERTS AND PUDDINGS

4 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Food and Travel Arabia

April 2014 Issue No 1

ELEGANT 46 Sunday best

82 Staying current Gabriella Le

40 Delicate desires Linda Tubby’s

114 Books Stéphane Reynaud on

DIVE IN, CHILL OUT…

views over Phang Nga Bay. This is designer Paola Navone’s

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 7

Located on a private island off

MARJAN ISLAND RESORT AND SPA

New OPENINGS IN… AJMAN DUBAI OMAN RAS AL KHAIMAH

New OPENINGS IN… MIAMI MALDIVES MALLORCA STOCKHOLM PALO ALTO

MAALIFUSHI BY COMO OD PORT PORTALS OD PORT PORTALS

12 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 13

FOOD & HOSPITALITY FARM FRESH

14 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

SCREAM FOR ICE CREAM

FOOD Ah, macaron – that almond-based

FILES ganache – so quintessentially

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 15

BUSHIDO BAHRAIN Zuma in Abu Dhabi

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 17

Bringing you the freshest

Saar (+973) 17 697558 Amwaj (+973) 16 033773 Durrat (+973) 77 770001

Darren Velvick, Chef Patron at the esteemed table 9 restaurant in Hilton

recipe At its peak

grated parmesan cheese. The texture should be Asparagus, blood oranges,

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 19

RECIPES START ON PAGE 116

20 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & FOOD

RECIPES START ON PAGE 116

22 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & FOOD

24 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & TRAVEL 25

26 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

Left to right: bakeries (here

28 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

patrons, the Gonzagas. (In 2012 an earthquake damaged the

30 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

‘“Mantova has always been una terra di buongustai – a

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 31

32 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & TRAVEL 33

34 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

FOOD & TRAVEL 35

Below: Mantua’s river Mincio flows

36 FOOD & TRAVEL

three Michelin stars: they’ve had them since 1996.

FOOD & TRAVEL 37

38 FOOD & TRAVEL