20

AWVOT

16
ARE NO
DW
S
AL AIN
GARDEN OF THE GULF
Annie Féolde
The reluctant chef

GARY
RHODES
The Carême Column CITY
GUIDES
Hamburg
Osaka
Salcombe
Dolce Lecce
Puglia’s Gary
food Rhodes
capital The Carême
Christian Le Squer Column
Pride of
Paris

DINING ALFRESCO
Picnic hamper heaven
VOL 3 ISSUE 7/8 2016

Reviews Virgilio Martínez Peaches Travel News Phil Vickery Tried & Tasted
 Editor’s
letter
S
Editor Anisa Al Hawaj ummer is here and whether you are travelling to some romantic
Associate Editor Ali Ahmed atoll or perhaps trying the new vogue of a staycation, Food and
Art Editor Joy Evangelista
Travel has something for everyone. This month we explore exotic
Consulting Editor Sudeshna Ghosh
destinations in Europe, the iconic Art Weekend at Brown’s in London, a
Review Editor Mona Mohammed
Online Editor Husain Khaled gastronomic tour around Paris with Michelin-starred chef Thierry
Social Media Editor Mary Ann Parungao Marx from Mandarin Oriental Paris (p84) spend lazy days in Marbella,
Travel Editor Nick Baines and enjoy the hidden delights of Hamburg (p73) and I tell you about
Director of Features Francesca Jackson Sophia’s in Munich (p46). We talk to legendary 3 Michelin starred chefs
Publisher Salah Alhaiki Annie Féolde (p19) and Christian Le Squer (p69) and find out what
Managing Editor Fawzi Alshehabi drives Andreas Mattmüller, the COO of Mövenpick here in the Middle
Account Director Ollie Williams East (p54). Michelin starred Phil Vickery shares some secrets of tasty
gluten-free cooking (p34), Peruvian Michelin maestro Virgilio Martínez
Editorial Enquiries
talks ceviche (p98), whilst Clarissa Hyman waxes lyrical about peaches
editor@foodandtravelarabia.com
Sales & Advertising and nectarines (p22). We take a little trip to Lecce the culinary engine
info@foodandtravelarabia.com room of Puglia (p58) and trek to the historic town of Al Ain (p30) whilst
Distribution Enquiries Louise Pickford throws down a rug for that most quintessentially
info@foodandtravelarabia.com summer of activities “a luxurious picnic” (p40). We welcome our latest
Communications & Design celebrity columnist superstar chef, Ambassador of British Cuisine and
info@foodandtravelarabia.com
all around good egg, Gary Rhodes OBE, who tells us about his foray into
Lyon (p86). Finally don’t forget to make your voice heard in the 2016/7
Email info@foodandtravelarabia.com
Twitter @foodtravelme Food and Travel Awards (p16) and have your say as to who makes it to
Facebook @FoodTravelME the final – because every vote counts.
Web www.foodandtravel.me
Bon voyage
Food and Travel, UK Anisa Al Hawaj Editor
Mark Sansom, editor
Contributors

mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Germany
Stefanie Will, editor
stefanie.will@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Mexico
Cecilia Núñez, editor
cecilia.nunez@lyrsa.com.mx
Food and Travel, Turkey
Mehmet Tel, editor Stefanie Will Sudeshna Ghosh Clarrissa Hyman
mehmet.tel@foodandtravel.com.tr Food and Travel An award- An award-winning
Food and Travel, Italy Germany winning editor, writer, television
Marco Sutter, publisher is a proud Sudeshna has producer, and
publisher@foodandtravelitalia.com
Hamburger. been creating vice-president
She’s lived in the food, travel and of the UK Guild
WINNER cosmopolitan and lifestyle content of Food Writers,
PPA Independent Publishing fast-changing for over ten Clarissa has
Company of the Year
German city years, From written four
WINNER most of her life, judging culinary food, travel and
PPA Publisher of the Year so made the competitions culture books,
perfect writer to and prestigious and is a long-
Food and Travel Magazine is published by Green Pea
compile our city restaurant time contributor
Publishing Ltd, Ingate Place, London, UK. Food and Travel guide (p73). Join awards, to to the magazine.
& Food and Travel Arabia are published under license from her on a tour of numerous This month
Turnstart Limited, a UK company. Gulf Publishing Ltd, a UK
company and Gulf Digital WLL are the exclusive licensed the city’s revived appearances she shares
agents for Food & Travel Arabia in the GCC under copyright riverside district on TV and her passion
of Green Pea Publishing. All rights of the licensed material
and explore radio. In this for seasonal
belong to Turnstart Limited and may not be reproduced
whether in whole or in part without its prior written consent. the restaurants issue, she produce and the
The name “Food and Travel” is the property of Turnstart that are at the discovers symbol of that
Limited. Opinions expressed are not necessarily those of
the Publisher. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are
forefront of what’s new in summer peaches
not accepted and will not be returned German cuisine. Dubai & Beirut & nectarines (p22)
 30

July 2016

RECIPE INDEX
STARTS ON PAGE 88
40 76

88 Tuna and nectarine salad with peach liqueur

dressing
88 Poached peaches
89 Peach Melba
89 Peach and rosewater galettes
90 Nectarine flatbread with coconut fudge drizzle
90 Chicory & pear salad with cambozola yogurt
dressing 18 81
91 Apple cheesecake
91 Easy sweet & sour meatballs with ginger & lime
92 Barbecued whole fish with avocado & banana
92 Chickpea & cumin pancakes
93 Red hot chilli popcorn
93 Crab tart with lemony asparagus salad
94 Beef, pickled red onion, horseradish sandwich
94 Pint of prawns with chipotle aïoli and lime salt
95 Pea falafels with pomegranate and tomato
fattoush
96 Meringues with rosewater raspberries 58
96 Beef short ribs
97 Yum Talay
97 Balsamic-garlic grilled beef steak with rocket
salad
97 Pan fried salmon with black bean sauce
97 Beef steak salad with thai herb dressing

40
46

4 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 On the cover

2A0WOATE N
V
18 Annie Féolde

1R6DOSW
30 Al Ain
34 Phil Vickery
AL AIN
GARDEN OF THE GULF
Annie Féolde
The reluctant chef

58 Lecce
GARY
RHODES
The Carême Column CITY
GUIDES
Hamburg
Osaka

69 Christian Le Squer
Salcombe
Dolce Lecce
Puglia’s Gary
food Rhodes

69
capital The Carême
Christian Le Squer Column

73 City Guides
Pride of
Paris

34 DINING ALFRESCO
VOL 3 ISSUE 7/8 2016

Picnic hamper heaven

Reviews Virgilio Martínez Peaches Travel News Phil Vickery Tried & Tasted 86 Gary Rhodes

INSIDE
ARRIVALS TRAVEL
08 Travel news Freedive in Africa, eat 30 Garden of the Gulf We discover
your way around Japan and visit the hidden treasure of the desert
some of Europe’s top festivals
73 48 hours City breaks in Hamburg,
10 Hotel news Openings in Australia Osaka and Salcombe
22 and Paris, and fresh designs
in Mauritius and Mexico FOOD
22 In season Peach and nectarine
12 News The latest news and views recipes ripe for picking
from around the region
35 Full of flavour Phil Vickery shares
18 The Carême Interview Three the secret of tasty gluten-free dishes
Michelin starred Annie Féolde; the
Reluctant Chef 40 Hampering situation Perfect your
picnic game this season
69 Christian Le Squer Three Michelin
stars and still striving for more 50 Good cook, great food Have fun
whilst you cook - good food has no
GOURMET TRAVELS boundaries
86 46 Sophia’s choice Fine dining in
Munich’s Charles Hotel PLUS
16 2016 Awards The shortlists are
58 Well heeled A gourmet tour of here. Get voting, now!
Puglia’s produce capital, Lecce
54 Andreas Mattmüller Mövenpick’s
TRIED AND TASTED man of action
81 Hotel heaven Beirut by night, we
visit the Four Seasons 88 The collection All your favourite
recipes from this issue
82 Restaurants Designer Italian at
Versace, Atherton in Dubai and 98 After hours Lima’s Virgilio Martínez
50 Emirati style on his top restaurants and where he
Food cover: Angela Dukes

finds inspiration
84 Places to stay Lazy days in
Marbella, Fine Art in London,
designer chic in Dubai and Ibiza cool

86 The Carême Column Ambassador

of Great British Cuisine Gary Rhodes
joins the team
 Arrivals
News and views from the worlds of food and travel
WE DO LIKE TO BE BESIDE...
The past 150 years have been a bumpy (donkey) ride for British
beach resorts. In the Victorian glory days, fashionable ladies swept
along the waterfront to the sound of oompah bands, while the new
railways allowed thousands of men and women to see the sea for
the first time. Even Queen Victoria enjoyed a little swimming without
the indignity of being spotted in her cossie thanks to a ‘bathing
machine’, essentially a mobile beach hut that wheeled right into the
sea. As cheap flights became readily available, the British seaside
was forgotten and suffered a sharp decline. However, since 2012,
the government has invested more than £120million in a bid to
reverse its fortunes and in May this year, it announced it will be
adding a further £90million to this princely sum. So pack your rug,
make up a picnic (see our excellent recipes on p44), dig out your old
deck chair and spend a thoroughly nostalgic summer exploring all
the beautiful beaches that Britain has to offer.
CORNWALL, THE LIZARD This peninsula basks like its namesake
in the warmth of the Gulf Stream and you can soak it up from any
of its 20 beaches. Go rock-pooling at Kennack Sands, explore the
tiny church at Gunwalloe Cove or dive the mysterious carcasses of
long-floundered ships off Porthoustock.
DEVON, THE ENGLISH RIVIERA A glorious stretch of coastline
with the highest concentration of Blue Flag beaches in the country.
Photo by Shutterstock
The saltwater swimming pool at Shoalstone is just the thing for
nervous swimmers while Broadsands is our pick for families. Bring
your spade and attempt to dig all the way to Australia (a gauntlet
thrown down by generations of eager children) or collect cowrie
shells and smooth sea glass along the shore.
KENT, FOLKESTONE With a smattering of south-facing sandy
beaches to choose from, Folkestone is our pick in the south-east.
The beach zigzags below the Lower Leas Coastal Path and on a
clear day you can see France from the terrace of the Mermaids
Café. The town itself has emerged as a creative hub in the past
decade. The lanes off the Old High Street are lined with more than
300 creative businesses, from recording studios to a public art
collection featuring works by Tracey Emin and Richard Wentworth.
WALES, MILFORD HAVEN This small stretch in Pembrokeshire
became world-famous after a terrible oil spill in 1996. Today, you’ll
see little evidence of the disaster. The quiet golden sands and
crystalline waters of Musselwick Sands teem with seabirds and the
beaches are wilder and more rugged than their English cousins.
SCOTLAND, TIREE The beaches on this beautiful Hebridean
island are so fabulous that they are regularly compared to the
Caribbean for their milk-white sand. Unfortunately we can’t to vouch
for the weather, although it is one of the UK’s sunniest spots.
 Arrivals
TRAVEL

FESTIVAL FRENZY
Europe offers a regular menu of
photogenic festivals but July claims
a gold star for its historical pageants,
great music and adrenaline-fuelled
celebrations. In Italy, you can catch
galloping hooves and waving flags at
Siena’s Il Palio (2nd), in Switzerland
you’ll find Montreux’s lakeside
jazz festival (1-16), plus opera and
Tillers AND TRACKS
classical concerts in Salzburg, The Trans-Siberian Railway has been on all
Austria (starting 22nd). On 17 July, of our bucket lists at some point and given
Venice’s Festa del Redentore sees that it’s celebrating its 100th birthday this
pyrotechnics above a lagoon dotted year, there’s never been a better time to
with boats, while Germany’s Rhine climb aboard. In honour of the centenary,
In Flames (2nd) is a fireworks Abercrombie & Kent’s Golden Eagle Trans-
spectacular. The Germans are also Siberian Express tour on 26 July includes
hosting Wagner’s Bayreuth Festival an extra night in the mountains at Lake
operas from 25 July, while Finland Baikal. The deepest lake in the world, it is
sticks its tenors and sopranos in St best enjoyed on a private cruise, followed
Olaf’s Castle in Savonlinna from by a traditional sauna overlooking the water.
8-16 July. The Basel military tattoo $14,565pp. abercrombiekent.co.uk
(21-30) attracts 500,000 visitors,
while Pamplona’s running of the
bulls (6-14) will test, but hopefully

news
not puncture, your cojoñes.

Travel ON THE MOVE

Africa’s wildebeest migration is known as the
greatest journey on Earth and the hair-raising
dash across the great Mara River as they
dodge the jaws of crocodiles is the most epic
part. Late July is the best time to see it, and
with Exsus’s 13-night Masai Mara Migration
tour, you’ll be in the thick of it. The adventure
also includes camel trekking with Masai
warriors and six nights at Diani, where you
can rinse off your dusty trousers in the Indian
Ocean. $7,630pp, including flights. exsus.com

FREE WHEELING
Things that begin with B seems to be the theme at World Expeditions this
summer. The brand-new Bordeaux Bike and Barge tour ($1,740) is a leisurely
amble through this fabulous wine region that includes a visit to the new La Cité
du Vin museum, which opened in June, and plenty of opportunities for a tipple
or two. Further afield, Québec’s Blueberry Bicycle Route bounds merrily around
beautiful Saint-Jean Lake. The shady forests are flecked with wild blueberries
and they make their way into everything from chocolate, bread and pastries to
game stews. $930pp. worldexpeditions.co.uk

8 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


KHMER REVOLUTIONS
Siem Reap is best known as the gateway to the temple complex of
Angkor Wat. Now it has another treat for visitors: a daily four-hour
cycling tour nibbling wonderful (and sometimes weird) Khmer
dishes. Pedalling off as the soupy heat relents and food stalls and
cafés set up for the evening, the route lets you taste everything from
barbecued beef and chargrilled giant snails to edible lotus flowers,
along with traditional curries and soups. The 18km ride ends with
dinner in a vegetable garden hosted by locals, all washed down with
rice grape and ice-cold Angkor hops. $66. grasshopperadventures.com
GOING Geisha
Japan’s culture can be daunting
but a new tour lets independent
travellers delve into the country’s
south-west. The 11-day itinerary
includes a stay at Mount Koya and
a peek at geisha culture. $3,925pp,
including accommodation, tours
and seven-day rail pass (excludes
flights). insiderjourneys.co.uk
WHAT LIES BENEATH?
What kind of aquatic creature would you like to rub noses
with on your holiday? A Mexican jackfish or a Mozambique
bottlenose dolphin? How about a South African fur seal or
a Maldivian manta ray? It’s all possible thanks to a range of
breaks launched by freediver Hanli Prinsloo. The week-long trips
Photos by Italian Tourist Board; Wildebeest by Murray Macdonald;
combine tuition in the sport’s basic skills with yoga – a natural
Nathan Horton; annabellabetts.com; Colin Sinclair; Ryan Murray
partner for freediving that breeds calmness, improved breathing
and increased lung capacity – and the chance to dive alongside
remarkable marine creatures. You’re in safe hands. Along with
Prinsloo, who has established or broken 11 South African
freediving records, the instructors include swimmer Peter
Marshall, who set eight world backstroke records, and top-
notch film-makers, so you return with proof of your adventure.
Ten days from $4,190pp with full board, accommodation and
freediving (excludes flights). hanliprinsloo.com
Mumbai
in six stops
Ian Belcher sings the praises of the
city’s king crabs, Bollywood star
hangouts and incredible lunch boxes
1
Prepare for a dazzling riot of seafood. For more
than 40 years, Trishna, on one of Kala Ghoda’s
labyrinthine lanes, has served lobster 13 ways,
22 different crab dishes – king crab in chilli garlic is
2
epic – and 17 types of jumbo prawn. trishna.co.in
Head to the colonial city centre for excellent
shopping. Bombay Electric bombayelectric.
in on Best Marg (Mumbai’s answer to Bond
Street) sells everything from vintage Bollywood
posters to contemporary Indian fashion. For
3
jewellery, try D Popli & Sons in nearby Battery Street.
With its sci-fi multitiered atrium, the Oberoi
Hotel offers clean monochrome design on
exclusive Marine Drive with memorable views
of the ocean and Queen’s Necklace – the night-time
golden crescent of light along the shoreline. The
contemporary rooms are a stark contrast to the city’s
4
teeming multicoloured streets. oberoihotels.com
Fancy appearing in a Bollywood movie? The
morning recruitment hot spot for European
extras is outside the Salvation Army Red
Shield hostel on Merewether Road in the Colaba
district or nearby Leopold Café leopoldcafe.com
5
where scouts hunt for fresh celluloid meat.
As bright and light as a Mediterranean café,
the Olive Bar & Kitchen is punctuated with
pops of colour and leafy foliage in hip Bandra.
A magnet for movers, shakers, sports stars and
movie types, including Salman Khan, it has a serious
cellar, nifty cocktails and a TGIT night every Thursday
with cutting-edge music. olivebarandkitchen.com
6 Head to the central office district just before
lunchtime and witness an extraordinary daily
ritual: the dabbawallas delivering (and later
collecting) more than 150,000 home-made lunches
for their clients. Remarkably, deliveries are said to be
99.99 per cent accurate. mumbaidabbawala.in
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 9
 Arrivals
HOTELS

Hotel news Clockwise from

top left: view of the
beach at Shangri-La
Le Touessrok; Villa
One at One&Only
In the ever-chic style capital of Paris,
Le Roch leroch-hotel.com – the latest
addition to Design Hotel’s stable – is
flinging open its doors. Saturated in
Palmilla; interior elegance, the 37-room boutique hotel
of the Shangri-
tickles the Louvre from its address in
La villas; luxury
design at Le Roch; the first arrondissement. Matching the
the roof terrace at top-rate location, interiors by Parisian
Alex Hotel; its chic designer Sarah Lavoine celebrate
reception; relaxing
outside with a drink
feminine, pastel hues of sage, chartreuse
Things are hotting up down under with the opening of the hip and milky green. Plush sofas, Carrara
Alex Hotel in Perth’s arty Northbridge neighbourhood. It comes marble and walnut flooring finish the
hot on the heels of the well-received launch of Sydney’s stylish look. It’s the Francophile’s ultimate
The Old Clare and it would appear that Perth’s design-savvy pied-à-terre. Keep your eyes peeled for
crowd won’t be outdone by their east coast rivals. Mere moments hotel chef Arnaud Faye, a rising star in
from the CBD, the stylish hotel is the brainchild of the epicureans the Saint-Honoré food scene. There’s
behind the city’s famed food haunts Bread In Common and reason to swoon in sunny Mauritius as
Hippocampus Metropolitan Distillery. Designed with a mind to give the exclusive Shangri-La Le Touessrok
travellers a sense of home comfort, there are 74 rooms swathed shangri-la.com which saw a lauded
in fine Italian linens, adorned with local hand-crafted pottery and relaunch a few months ago, has unveiled
Sodashi amenities. Many also boast private balconies. A rich three new Mediterranean-inspired beach
colour palette chosen by designers Arent & Pyke features gutsy villas. Skirting the Indian Ocean, each of
turquoise and navy walls alongside dusty pink and mustard the 423sq m villas has three bedrooms,
furnishings, all set against angular, industrial-style geometric light an infinity pool with outstanding coastal
Words by Blossom Green

fittings and pale hardwood floors. Expect artisan coffee, craft beer views and a private beach. Super-luxe
and fresh local produce in the lobby’s café and Shadow Wine Bar Villa One at Mexico’s One&Only Palmilla
& Dining Room – a nod to the owners’ gourmet roots. To get a oneandonlyresorts.com is also a top
sense of place, the roof terrace is a great spot to watch the bustle pick for the season. Bang on-trend, the
of the vibrant area, flush with its numerous cafés and bars. And two-storey, light-filled, four-bedroom
sit-up-and-beg-style Lekker bikes are free for guests to borrow for villa, complete with infinite vistas and
jaunts further afield and around town. alexhotel.com.au glistening pool, is set in lush gardens.

OPENINGS IN… AUSTRALIA FRANCE MAURITIUS MEXICO

Come explore the legendary world of gourmet Indian cuisine
at Maharaja East by Vineet. Michelin star winner and patron
chef Vineet Bhatia’s fusion of traditional ingredients with a
fresh, contemporary presentation makes Maharaja East by
Vineet deliciously innovative. Elegantly simple yet classic
design, live cooking performances, exquisite service and a
range of delightful dishes make this the ultimate destination
for a culinary journey. Maharaja East by Vineet
Tahlia Road, Prince Mohammed 5
P.O. Box 8539, Riyadh 11492, K.S.A
Phone +966 11 464 1111 | +966 11 464 6161
www.maharajaeast.com

Maharaja East by Vineet and Saudi’s finest dining.

 FOUR SEASONS ABU DHABI AT AL MARYAH ISLAND UAE
One of the latest additions to Abu Dhabi’s luxury hotel scene, the
Four Seasons Hotel at Al Maryah Island is located in a soaring
34-storey steel and glass waterfront edifice that enjoys stunning
views over the City Skyline and shimmering azure waters of the
Arabian Gulf. The hotel has six exciting restaurants and lounges,
the Dahlia Spa, Lido two ballrooms to serve the 200 spacious
rooms and suites that reflect Four Seasons’ renowned luxury,
understated elegance and chic style.
Whether you traveling from abroad or looking for a great place for
your staycation Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi is offering a
summer of entertainment, activities and surprises for the whole
family. Let the kids enjoy cooking classes at Crust, the Four
Seasons Abu Dhabi market-inspired neighbourhood restaurant,
where they can bake warm breads, pastries and pizzas to treat
their families in this relaxing waterside spot. Perhaps you could take
advantage of the babysitting services while you indulge yourself at
the Dahlia Spa or dine at one of the hotel’s speciality restaurants.
Take in the Al Maryah Island social scene and try the Mixology
Classes at Zsa Zsa the hotel’s sophisticated bar.
The Summer Season Package - Stay 3 nights, receive the 4th
night free; Parents travelling with children can enjoy 50% off the
Best Available Rate of the second room; children up to 12 years old
enjoy complimentary meals when dining with their parents; and
families are guaranteed early check in and late check out
Kid’s Kitchen Cooking Classes (for children up to 12 years old)
are offered at Crust on Saturday 16th July and Saturday 20th July
from 2pm. Prior booking required
Zsa Zsa Shake Up Mixology Classes are offered on
Wednesday 13th July and Wednesday 17th August from 7pm.
Prior booking required
Available until Sunday 11th September 2016 to discover the full
details visit www.fourseasons.com/Abudhabi

Scape Restaurant & Bar BURJ AL ARAB DUBAI

Offering innovative Californian fusion cuisine from chef Timur Fazilov (Zuma Dubai
and Catch Abu Dhabi), Scape Restaurant & Bar found on the newly opened Burj Al
Arab Terrace is an exciting addition to the Dubai restaurant scene. Open for lunch
and dinner Scape offers both indoor and outdoor seating, shisha and an outdoor bar.
Signature dishes include Hamachi Crudo, with ponzu, pistachio together with citrus
zest, shallot rings and olives; Scallop Tiradito with tiger milk, apple and red radish;
and Slow Roasted Wagyu Short Ribs with pomelo, candied peanut, Swiss chard and
pave potato. FJ
Scape Restaurant & Bar is open for lunch from 12:30pm to 3:30pm, dinner from 6pm
to 11pm and Shisha from 12pm. The sharing style dishes start from $18. Booking is
required for all guests including hotel guests, Burj Al Arab members, and non-hotel
guests via Burj Al Arab Restaurants Reservations.
Email BAARestaurants@jumeirah.com or call +971 4 301 7600.

12 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 Arrivals
NEWS

RAFFLES SEYCHELLES
Nestled in the Indian Ocean, the island of Praslin home to
natural wonders such as the UNESCO World Heritage Site
of Vallée de Mai, and Anse Lazio. Rated as one of the best
beaches in the world, Anse Lazio is located just minutes
from Raffles Seychelles. Featuring spacious villas, each with
a private plunge pool and outdoor pavilion, and breath-
taking views across the turquoise ocean waters, white sandy
beaches and lush green hills, Raffles is the perfect destination
for anyone looking for an idyllic getaway. Dining at Raffles
Seychelles combines the best of Seychellois culture and
cuisine with dishes from around the world, and Raffles Spa,
located steps away from the coastline of Anse Takamaka,
offers ocean views from its treatment pavilions. NB
HOTEL CAFÉ ROYAL LONDON

Enjoy a special Eid getaway offer that includes 20% discount
on the Villa rates, and includes breakfast each day in the
Losean restaurant. Prices start from $490 per night after
discount. Offer is valid for stays until September 30th 2016.
To find out more visit www.raffles.com/praslin or contact
praslin@raffles.com +248 429 6000
CIPRIANI DUBAI
Since Giuseppe Cipriani founded the famed Harry’s
Bar in Venice, Italy in 1931 Cipriani has become one
of the most celebrated names on the lips of diners
around the globe. Today Cipriani has locations in many
of the great cities of the world, from London & New
York to Hong Kong & Mexico City; and of course this
year Dubai too.
Located in the DIFC, Cipriani Dubai is a celebration
of its traditional Venetian maritime heritage with large
linen curtains and brown leather chairs designed by
Florentine architect Michele Bonan. Whether you dine
outside on the terrace or the classic dining room on
the upper deck or just relax in the intimate bar on the
lower floor with a Harry’s Bar Bellini before you savour
the culinary standards such as Baked Tagliolini, Calf’s
Liver alla Veneziana, Seppioline in Tecia, Carpaccio, or
Torta Di Cioccolato, Cipriani Dubai certainly lives up to
it’s illustrious name. NB
www.cipriani.com dubai@cipriani.com +971 434
70003 Open every day Noon till 2am
L
ocated in the heart of London, the Café Royal has been
an iconic landmark on London’s social scene, for over
a century, now reincarnated as a luxury hotel, Hotel
Café Royal has fast become a firm favourite with both locals
and visitors alike. This summer, Hotel Café Royal will launch
an exclusive pop-up in collaboration with London’s illustrious
Harrods.
From the end of Ramadan, The Pompadour Ballroom will
be transformed into an extension of the Mezzah Lounge at
Harrods. Inspired by the food and culture of the Middle East;
a setting reminiscent of a French palace, gilded in the style of
Louis XVI, adorned with chaises-longues, sumptuous sofas and
embroidered cushions.
Hotel Café Royal’s Diwania Lounge will serve traditional
Middle Eastern dishes such as hot and cold meze, grilled
chicken skewers, marinated lamb cutlets and tagine, as
well as delicious delicacies like baklava and Turkish delight;
complimented by a selection of international cuisine from the
hotel’s own culinary team, under the guidance of Head Chef,
Armand Sablon.
You can spend your evening on the terrace, with panoramic
views of Regents Street, whilst enjoying mint tea and shisha, in
the stunning setting of Mayfair’s historic buildings and elegant
architecture.
This exceptional Middle Eastern lounge is available by
confirmed reservation and invitation only or to guests of the
hotel’s suites. Email diwania@hotelcaferoyal.com for further
information. Open from 15th July until 31st August 2016, until
3am daily.
For hotel reservations please contact +44 207 406 3322
or via email reservations@hotelcaferoyal.com or visit www.
hotelcaferoyal.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 13

 Arrivals
NEWS

BAZXAR DUBAI
Located at the DIFC, Bazxar is an exciting addition to
the Dubai scene; ‘food-market-restaurant-wine-bar’
Bazxar takes you on a no-nonsense culinary approach
to fine food. The industrial interior space has an eclectic
mix of contemporary art, natural materials, metals and
designer leather furnishings, which is as varied as the
cuisine.
Experience steamed buns, aromatic soups and
noodles at the Vietnamese station; burgers and hotdogs
at the Meat District or grab an espresso and viennoiserie
from the bakery and coffee counter, before you chill to
the music in the lounge. Bazxar offers a warm welcome
and unique dining experience. FJ
Visit www.bazxar.com or call +971 4 355 1111 to
discover more 105 BY LA CANTINE IBIZA
An exciting new concept from the team at La Cantine du
Faubourg has launched in the home to summer chic Ibiza in
Spain’s Balearic islands 105 by La Cantine; a Riviera-style
150-seat terrace, by the mega-yacht port with “105 Suites@
MarinaMagna” above: offering 7 private designer apartments
that enjoy every modern refinement and comfortable
furnishings, at one of the most exclusive addresses on the
island. Inspired by the nostalgia of the French Riviera and
the elegance of the 60’s the décor of 105 by La Cantine is a
classic mix of white facades, with large windows overlooking
the blue-green waters of the Mediterranean and a long
terrace punctuated with soaring palm trees; comfortable
banquettes, marble tables and a large awning provide the
perfect spot enjoy a an intimate meal or just relax with a glass
of bubbly and a cigar. FJ
Opening 7 days a week, from 8 am to 2 am Marina
Magna – Dalt Vila – Port of Ibiza Tel + 34 971 098 897
book@105bylacantine.com www.105bylacantine.com

PALAZZO PARIGI
MILAN
Located in the vibrant heart of Milan just steps away from the fashion district and
the famed La Scala Opera House, Palazzo Parigi Hotel & Grand Spa is a celebration
Italian style with its rich wood, marble, ornate décor and century-old garden. The
Gourmet Restaurant offers an enchanting neoclassical space for a refined dinner
and Caffè Parigi is open daily for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, the intimate
historical garden is available for drinks; a relaxing setting and fresh oasis in the heart
of Milan.
Experience 5 Star luxury at Palazzo Parigi with their special Eid package, featuring
special discounts on room rates and a host of other benefits. Enjoy discounts of
up to 25% on room rates, early check-in and late check-out, 10% discount on spa
treatments; with prices starting at $445 per night for a two-night stay in a classic
room plus taxes – available until August 31st 2016. www.palazzoparigi.com

14 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

It’s here! The shortlists for the GCC Awards. Be sure to have your say, by voting for your
food and travel favourites at foodandtravel.com/vote

HOW TO
VOTE
O
ver the past two months, we’ve been asking you to
nominate your favourites in the world of food and travel Visit
– and boy, did you deliver! From literally thousands of www.gcctourismawards.com
entries our expert panel has compiled the voting shortlist for the or email
info@foodandtravelarabia.com
main categories for the 2016/7 Awards, which you’ll find on our
website, foodandtravel.me. Now comes the really fun part – voting
Voting ends
to decide the finalists for the categories mentioned (the other 24 September 2016
categories will be decided by the expert panel from amongst the
finalists you choose) You may vote for one candidate
Now it’s the voting round to decide who will go through to the in each category.
final rounds to judged by the expert panel. Simply go online and
choose your favourites from the shortlisted candidates.
So whether it’s the tour operator that’s given you the experience
of a lifetime, a hotel that’s gone the extra mile to make your
stay special, or an unforgettable meal from that exciting new
restaurant, visit foodandtravel.com now and get voting – because
it’s you who decides their fate.
The country winners will be announced in December 2016 and
the overall GCC Winners will announced at a Gala Dinner at the
end of January 2017
So whether it is your favourite restaurant, hotel or café – you
can vote in as many or as few categories as you wish – now is the
time to make sure you register your vote.
A big thanks for your initial nominations. And don’t forget, even
if you didn’t get involved first time around, you can still make your
voice heard, by helping to pick the finalists.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 17

18 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

The RELUCTANT chef
The first female chef in Italy to earn three Michelin stars, French-born Chef Annie Féolde
fell into a career she had been long running away from. Here’s her story…
Y
ou can’t escape destiny. No matter how much you run
away from something, if you’re destined to do it, you
will eventually be drawn to it. Annie Féolde is one such
destiny’s child. She was born in Nice, France into a family of
hoteliers. Having seen the impact of such a strenuous career on
her family, she knew early on she would never follow this path.
“My grandparents were both owners of hotels. And my parents
worked at the Négresco Hotel in Nice. So I was surrounded
by good food and grape. I liked it from the beginning, and
gained good knowledge too. But I didn’t want to do take it up
professionally because it was difficult as a job. You have to work
long hours; you’re responsible for many people. And if you have
to run a restaurant, you have the responsibility of good food too.
These days, people are more delicate than they used to be, so
you additionally have to worry about cooking to suit the many
allergies they may have. Plus, there is no time for a private life. It
was pure chance that I did it later in Florence,” shares Féolde.
She first began working as a postwoman in a Parisian post
office, but she quickly figured this wasn’t for her and set out
to learn different languages in Europe. “I went to London to
learn English for a year. Then I came to Florence in 1969 to
learn Italian. I wanted to study both languages and improve my
THE INTERVIEW
pronunciations and knowledge of them. I loved travelling, so I
thought of doing something in the tourism sector,” she says.
“But in Florence, I met Giorgio Pinchiorri (her husband) and fell
in love. He was a sommelier, serving grape in an elegant way. I
thought the food he served with the wine wasn’t a good match.
So, I started cooking a few bite-sized dishes to complement the
vino. Soon, we became Enoteca Pinchiorri. I inevitably got into
a career I had for long tried to avoid. Though I wouldn’t have
become a chef had I not met Giorgio,” Féolde reveals.
Annie’s journey from French cuisine to Italian was oddly
amusing, scary and filled with surprises. “I didn’t know about
Italian food at all. Initially, the choice to start cooking Italian food
instead of French (which I knew well) was borne out of necessity.
“Since I was cooking in Florence, we had several guests from
different countries keen on trying Italian cuisine. I didn’t have a
choice but to learn a new style of cooking; I had to accept where
I was now. Once I opened up, I discovered that Italy is full of
wonderful ingredients and traditions.”
Her first bit of success in this new cuisine came when she
had to cook for a group of chefs from France and journalists
from Italy at an event. Understandably, it was a nerve-wracking
experience. “I tried my best and created a menu featuring
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 19
 THE INTERVIEW
ANNIE FÉOLDE

‘Receiving a Michelin star is so important; you feel you are

at the top of your game with the acknowledgment of those
who value good food’

Previous page: Artisan

restaurant interior; Capesante
Alla Plancha Purea di Ceci al
Rosmarino e Crema di
Cipollotti. This page,
clockwise, left to right:
Chef Annie Féolde; Artisan
restaurant dining area;
Spaghetti alla Chitarra con
Frutti di Mare; Gamberi Rossi
Profumati al Basilico;
Bistecca Alla Fiorentina e di
Suoi Fagioli

traditional Italian dishes. At the end of the evening, everyone
said it was fantastic food and that it had been an unexpectedly
surprising meal. I was ecstatic! It was a turning point for me.
From that moment on, I felt a lot more comfortable with the
cuisine,” Féolde explains.
Enoteca soon became a raging success decked with a flurry
of Michelin stars. It won its first in 1981, the second a year later
and an elusive third in 1993. This made Féolde the first woman in
Italy to receive three Michelin stars; a feat very few female chefs
have achieved. “Receiving a Michelin star is so important; you
feel you are at the top of your game with the acknowledgment
of those who value good food.” But tragedy struck shortly after
when a fire tore down a huge part of the restaurant and the
cellar. Unfortunately, the fire also took with it their third Michelin
star. Féolde recounts the incident, “It was devastating that we
lost so much in that fire. It all happened due to the insurance
fiasco. We had to fight for the insurance for two years because
no one at the insurance company could figure out what had
happened and how the fire originated. It seems the Michelin
inspectors came to our restaurant while we weren’t present
as we were running around aiming to resolve the insurance
problem. We later found out that the people at Michelin felt we
were too busy to attend to our restaurant since we had just
opened one in Tokyo the same year. And so we lost the third
star. We couldn’t do anything to explain because the Michelin
inspections are always anonymous. They base their judgments
on what they see. We were so upset; all our hard work had gone
to waste. We began to condemn each other. But slowly we
trudged forward and decided to keep doing better and better.
Eventually, we got the star back after nine years because they
took a long time to find out there was in fact an accident and we
have improved our style. We are the only ones in Italy to get the
star back, which is very unusual.”
Much like her career, Féolde’s arrival in Dubai was also a
matter of fate. Last month saw the opening of The Artisan,
by Enoteca Pinchiorri at Dubai’s DIFC. An elegant space with
minimalistic interiors, The Artisan features gourmet Italian food
with an exhaustive collection of grape. “It was a surprise really.
I did a food promotion in Abu Dhabi five years ago cooking
at Mezzaluna at the Emirates Palace. There were many chefs
from several different countries who were also a part of it. After
I finished my job, I passed by Dubai. It was a very busy city.
And that was it. I thought I’d never return seeing how hot it was.
But then when we met Firaz and his brother Hassan Fawaz
(the owners of The Artisan). They suggested the opening of
The Artisan. It seemed like a good opportunity to help people
understand Italian cuisine better. So I said, let’s do it. Let’s try.
And I’m glad I did.”

20 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 Enjoy European Peach!
As an exclusively summer, cool, juicy, and full of
flavor fruit, the peach is considered as the fruit of
purity and immortality, according to some Eastern
traditions.

The peach is ideal for those watching their diet, since

it is low in calories, and high in vitamins.

Food safety is a top priority for Europe.

¬ The Peach Growers Associations that take part in the implementa-

tion of this program perform tests in privately-owned laboratories, to
ensure thus the safety and quality of the products sold to consumers
in the international market.
www.peachgarden.eu

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM

THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE
PEACHES
Plump and juicy, there’s
something seductive
about this stone fruit.
&
NECTARINES

Clarissa Hyman takes you

through her first time
experiencing its virtues
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY.
PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING:
ANGELA DUKES

22 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 IN SEASON
TUNA AND NECTARINE SALAD WITH
PEACH LIQUEUR DRESSING

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 23

 POACHED PEACHES

IN SEASON

‘So alike are

peaches and
nectarines that
peach trees
can sometimes
produce
nectarines
and vice versa’

I
tasted my first golden-pink nectarine on a
trip to San Francisco more years ago than
I care to admit. I was still an unadventurous
food explorer: it was not that long since I
realised tinned sliced peaches actually
came from fruit-bearing trees.
Velvety peaches were my Californian fruit
of choice but was the nectarine a peach
or a plum with attitude? They are, in fact,
a smooth-skinned variety of peach of
mysterious origin that first appeared in
Britain in the early part of the 17th century.
The name possibly comes from German
and Dutch words meaning nectar-peach.
So alike are peaches and nectarines that
peach trees can sometimes spontaneously
produce nectarines and vice versa.
Peaches were born in the mountain
valleys and upland forests of central Asia.
They need both summer sunshine and
winter cool. Their natural home is in a
temperate climate; they fail to thrive in and,
in fact, detest the tropics.
Wild peaches were already cultivated
in China around 2,000BC. On his travels,
Marco Polo saw yellow and white peaches,
‘great delicacies’, for sale

24 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

CHERRY AND ROSE
PETALJAM WITH SCONES PEACH MELBA
F&T WINE MATCH
Restrained, lingering but
fresh, pear drop tinged RECIPES START ON PAGE 88
South African chardonnay
(eg 2012 The Agnes,

RECIPES START ON PAGE 118

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 25


Wit& wisdom
Peach Melba was created by
French chef Auguste Escoffier, who
named it in honour of Australian
soprano Dame Nellie Melba.
In China, peaches symbolise a
long and healthy life.
The bellini (champagne and puréed
white peaches) was invented at
Harry’s Bar in Venice in the Thirties.
To peel a furry-skinned peach,
drop into boiling water then plunge
into cold water. Slip off the skins.
Peach stones were found in
a 2nd-century site near the old
Billingsgate Fish Market.
26 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
‘weighing fully two small pounds apiece.’
They were also much prized, as a Chinese
proverb suggests: ‘Rather one bite of a
peach than eat a basketful of apricots’.
Their Latin name, Prunus persica, traces
their spread to Persia and Asia Minor and
it’s likely they arrived in Greece during the
4th century BC as a result of Alexander the
Great’s Asian campaigns.
In Britain, the peach was re-established
in the 16th century after cultivation all but
disappeared during the Dark Ages. In the
same century, the Spaniards took the
peach to America. Nowadays, California
produces about half the American crop,
followed by South Carolina, Georgia (The
Peach State) and New Jersey.
The ‘fuzz-less’ peach was first noted in
France in medieval times. And by 1629,
there were six varieties in England.
PEACH AND ROSEWATER GALETTES
RECIPES START ON PAGE 88
Poet John Keats wrote of the sensual,
self-indulgent pleasure of eating a nectarine
– ‘It went down all pulpy, slushy, oozy – all
its delicious embonpoint melted down my
throat like a large, beatified strawberry.’
However, both fruits were a luxury
in northern Europe until canning and
refrigerated transport brought them to the
masses. Tinned peaches have a different
flavour to fresh but they can still be good.
Nectarines, curiously, lose their distinctive
qualities when canned.
In this country, according to gardening
writer Sarah Raven, peaches are most
successfully grown in East Anglia and the
south-east. Nectarines are much trickier.
There are two categories of peach:
clingstone peaches have pulp that sticks
to the stone; freestone varieties have
flesh that pulls away easily. Each includes
fruit with yellow and white flesh. There are
many named cultivars, including Doughnut,
which has a sunken middle and a sweet
flavour with a hint of almond.
Pêches de vigne are small red-fleshed
fruits from the vineyards of the Rhône Valley
and only only available for a few weeks.
Spanish Calanda peaches are large, firm
and sweet, hand-wrapped in waxed paper
bags as the fruit matures on the tree.
Fresh peaches and nectarines in their
prime are so good that it seems a shame to
cook them but you can poach them in wine
or incorporate them into pies. Celebrated
chef Michael Caines recommends
pancakes with roasted peaches, nectarines
and lavender honey. But they need not be
limited to sweet dishes. James Tanner has
a recipe for seared scallops with nectarine
and chilli, while Nick Nairn suggests
luxurious sautéed pork with peaches, white
wine, cream and herbs.
Unfortunately, many supermarkets sell
fruit that has been picked too early: the
problem is that if too soft, the peach will
spoil quickly. It makes finding the perfect
peach even more of a prize.
There is a Sino-Tibetan 16th-century
altar cloth that depicts a goddess offering
peaches to the buddhas of meditation. It
reminds me of my fruit epiphany centuries
and continents later – and the erotically
charged moment of consumption.
NECTARINE
FLATBREAD WITH
COCONUT FUDGE
DRIZZLE AND
SWEET LABNEH

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 27

 Al Ain:
Garden of the Gulf
30 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
 WORLD TRAVELLER
ABU DHABI

Dubai has gleaming glass skyscrapers and Abu Dhabi

has grand mosques and palaces, but the UAE has more
to offer so Food and Travel asked Joe Worthington to
take a journey through the mesmerising tree-lined desert
oasis and traditional Arabian heritage of Al Ain, the garden
of the Gulf.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 31

 Imagine walking through the secluded desert as the hot midday
sunbeams pinch at your face, and the deafening silence is broken
only by the distant call of an Oryx shouting to its mate. As the
rippling smoky heat rays drop down over the endless orange sands
of the dunes, suddenly row after row of green date palm tree enter
into sight. The splashing of water trickling through the 3,000 year
old falaj irrigation channels echoes all around like a siren call luring
weary travellers deep into the middle of the narrow winding
walkways of the oasis. The towering yellow stone towers of the Al
Jahili Fort cast shadows as the daylight turns to darkness. Come
along on a journey into the history and nature of Al Ain, the Gulf’s
rarest gem.
Al Ain is one of the world’s oldest inhabited settlements; once
home to Bedouin tribesmen who lived off their camels, miles from
their coastal Khaleeji brothers, who traded with the outside world.
The towering glass skyscrapers that line the coast of Dubai, and the
gleaming white Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in the national capital
of Abu Dhabi are just afterthoughts when in Al Ain. Miles of endless
sand dunes and arid desert plants that provide much needed
shade for rare wildlife from the scorching midday sun separate the
garden city from the usual tourist hotspots in the United Arab
Emirates.
This rare, and may I suggest, secluded town has developed a
unique culture of its very own. Over the years, ancient ruins,
medieval irrigation systems, and modern luxury hotels and
attractions have combined to create a haven in the middle of the
desert, where both luxury seekers and history buffs will feel right at
home.
Al Ain Oasis
Al Ain didn’t get its name the “Garden of the Gulf” for nothing. As
you travel along the road from Dubai or Abu Dhabi the light of the
day suddenly gets darker, and the chill of the shadows flows
through your hair. Over 1,200 hectares of date palm trees gets
closer and closer as you approach the town. The noise of cars and
people talking gets gradually quieter, replaced by the sound of
silence, only broken by the soothing calls of an eagle or two and an
32 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Oryx bleating, lost in the maze of 147,000 towering palms.
The gentle splashing of water trickling through the 3,000 year old
wooden irrigation channels (falaj) creates an atmosphere unlike
anywhere else in the world. Follow these water channels to
navigate your way around this confusing network of trees. Local
farmers dressed from head to toe in gleaming white dishdasha
(robe) and keffiyeh (headdress) can often be seen carrying basket
after basket full of deep red dates that they have picked from the
palms. Yellow stone walls, intricately carved with traditional Arabian
diamond and star shapes, protect the wealth of families who have
lived in the middle of the oasis for thousands of years. The beautiful
lush greenery of Al Ain oasis hides many of the Gulf’s hidden
treasures.
Al Jahili Fort
Nowhere is more grand and luxurious than the picturesque castle-
like Al Jahili Fort. This sandy orange fortress was built in 1891 by
the British to defend the important date farms when Al Ain was
under the British protectorate of the former Trucial States. As you
walk through the domineering heavy wooden doors that guard the
multi-layered towers of Al Jahili. As you climb up the many stone
steps to the top of the 4-storey tower at the centre of this fortress,
the ghosts of the past come to life. Imagine the echoes of
thousands of soldiers parading through the grounds surrounding
the fort, their stomps and shouts ringing through the hot air.
The triangular pointed reinforced walls of Al Jahili protect hidden
rooms that once guarded gold and countless weapons worth
millions of dollars. From atop the tower of the fortress you can see
the endless rows of date palms over the horizon, and the luxury
hotels and palaces that are scattered across Al Ain. This landmark
of the Arabian Desert now houses an exhibition detailing the travels
of Sir Wilfred Thesiger (locally known as Mubarak Bin London), the
first British adventurer to cross the deadly Rub Al Khali (Empty
Quarter) desert.
Picture the grand banquets that were once hosted in the grounds
of the fortress when it was home to British Governors stationed in
Al Ain to protect this vital settlement.
 WORLD TRAVELLER
ABU DHABI

Clockwise, left to right, top:

Abu Dhabi dunes; sunset over
Al Ain desert; camel market;
date palm; colourful spices in
Al Ain Souq; Abu Dhabi
mosque; flamingos;
Mubazarrah Mountain; Tower
of Jahili Fort; Al Ain cliffs

Qasr Al Muwaiji
In 1946 the first President of a unified United Arab
Emirates, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al
Nahyan, established his diwan (governing council) in this,
his family home since his birth. The smooth sand coloured
walls of this palace, with its towering entrance and
Arabian style carvings truly are luxurious.
The ancient walls surround a gleaming glass building,
which houses an homage to the former President of the
Federation. Black marble floors and water fountains give
visitors a small insight into what it must be like to live in the
Federal Palace in Abu Dhabi – the luxury and wealth is
literally covering the walls in the form of priceless paintings
and murals to the nation.

Al Ain Camel Market

Not exactly luxurious I hear you say, spending your day in
a hot, smelly, dusty and hectic market at the edge of Al
Ain. But this is where some of the richest and most
powerful sheikhs from across the Arab world come to buy
racing camels that could make them even wealthier.
Thousands of camels stand tightly packed into pens, both
mature and babies, waiting to be snapped up by the
wealthy buyers who think they might have found something
special in one of these caravans of the desert.
Haggling is all part of the fun, and typically Arabian.
Arrive in the morning and watch as buyers shout out
numbers in Arabic, getting more vigorous as the day goes
on. This is a great place to get an insight into traditional
Arabian culture, but if you don’t learn anything else, you
will definitely leave with a newfound knowledge of Arabic
numbers.
This UNESCO town is at the heart of the United Arab
Emirates, where ancient traditions meet the luxury of the
modern day; to find out more visit visitabudhabi.ae

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 33

 Acclaimed Michelin starred chef Phil Vickery shows us that Gluten-Free
doesn’t mean flavour free

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

RED HOT CHILLI POPCORN

This spicy popcorn isn’t for the faint-
hearted, but it is very moreish

34 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS

CHICKPEA & CUMIN PANCAKES WITH

TOMATOES, RED ONION & CORIANDER
You can serve these pancakes with spicy mango
chutney and thick yogurt, but they’re also good
with tomato salsa.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 35

 FOOD FOCUS

BARBECUED WHOLE FISH WITH

AVOCADO & BANANA
The Brazilians love avocado, which
they eat it with sugar and other sweet
accompaniments. Here is a dish I created
using local fresh fish stuffed with banana,
garlic and honey avocado

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

36 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS

EASY SWEET & SOUR MEATBALLS

WITH GINGER & LIME
The mayonnaise in these meatballs
helps to keep them juicy but not
fatty, while the vegetables are
seasoned with tamari, honey and
pepper, with no additional salt. Enjoy
them lightly chilled in a salad

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 37

 FOOD FOCUS

APPLE CHEESECAKE
This is a very light cheesecake that’s
easy to make. The apple really gives
the dessert a lift. I use gluten-free
shortbread, but any gluten-free
biscuit or cookie will do

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

38 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS
CHICORY & PEAR SALAD WITH
CAMBOZOLA YOGURT DRESSING
The combination of a few simple ingredients
can sometimes make a lovely dish. This is a
classic example.

PHIL VICKERY’S ESSENTIAL GLUTEN-FREE IS

PUBLISHED BY KYLE BOOKS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY
KATE WHITAKER. AVAILABLE FROM KINOKUNIYA, CIEL,
JASHANMAL OR LEVANT ONLINE

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 39

 FOOD FOCUS

Picnic season is
officially here. These
fresh takes on old
favourites by Louise
Pickford are easy to
make and packed with
flavours that will have
family and friends
begging you to throw
down the rug
PHOTOGRAPHY:
IAN WALLACE
PROP AND
FOOD STYLING:
LOUISE PICKFORD

HAMPERING SITUATION
40 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
 CRAB TART WITH LEMONY
ASPARAGUS SALAD
A true taste of British summer,
asparagus is perfect with crabmeat.
The lemon dressing sets it off.

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

FOOD & TRAVEL

FOOD & ARABIA
TRAVEL 41
 FOOD FOCUS

BEEF, PICKLED RED ONION

AND WATERCRESS SANDWICH
Make your own soda bread
and pack with quality beef
for this picnic crowd-pleaser.

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

42 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS
PINT OF PRAWNS WITH
CHIPOTLE AIOLI
A modern take on a pub
favourite – juicy king prawns
with a smoky
mayonnaise and
lime zest salt.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 43

 FOOD FOCUS

PEA FALAFEL WITH TOMATO FATTOUSH

Fresh peas and couscous replace chickpeas in
this falafel. Try it with yoghurt and pomegranate.
RECIPES START ON PAGE 88
48 FOOD & TRAVEL
 FOOD FOCUS

MERINGUE WITH ROSEWATER

RASPBERRIES AND WHITE
CHOCOLATE CREAM
Easy to make, pretty and
delicious, these are the perfect
way to round off a day in the sun.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 45

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
MUNICH

SOPHIA’S
CHOICE
Food and Travel’s Anisa Al Hawaj enjoyed
an evening of gastronomic delights at
Munich’s Charles Hotel

46 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

GOURMET TRAVELLER
EDINBURGH

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 47

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
MUNICH
H
aving only recently savoured the delights of dining at the
Michelin starred Number One restaurant located in Rocco
Forte’s Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh, I couldn’t resist a visit to
Sophia’s restaurant in the Rocco Forte Charles Hotel during my
recent stay in Munich.
Set against the picturesque backdrop of the Old Botanical
Gardens, and somehow reminiscent of New York’s Flatiron Building
the Charles Hotel is ideally located; close to Königsplatz and just a
short stroll from the designer stores of Maximilianstrasse.
With a well-earned reputation, I was looking forward to
experiencing the gastronomic treats from former Michelin starred
chef Michael Hüsken, who leads the talented brigade in Sophia’s
kitchen. From my arrival in the busy restaurant and bar I was
immediately impressed; the level of service was both personable
and friendly without being intrusive and the welcome was warm and
genuine, a tenet that permeated throughout my evening.
The menu is a celebration of regional produce, exotic flavours
offering a wide range of prime cuts of meat and the freshest of
fish that are the basis for Chef Michael Hüsken’s botanical
bistronomy cuisine.
We decided to let chef recommend our meal for the evening and
48 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Previous page: spices;
dining area. This page:
Left to right, top:
restaurant interior;
Charles Hotel exterior at
night. Left to right,
bottom: Executive Chef
Michael Hsken; garden
dining; Bar Manager
Roman Kern
we were not disappointed; the appetiser was a delicate plate of
sweet and tender scallops, served with apple, fennel and lardo di
Colonnata that gently tempted my taste buds as the contrast of
textures and flavours gently unfolded on my tongue.
The main course was an exceptional treat, the moist white meat
of the Monkfish with light golden crust served with potato caper
purée, white asparagus, thin shavings of courgette and a luxurious
foam reduction that brought all the elements of the dish together.
To complete our culinary voyage of discovery we were treated to
an indulgent plate of a velvety coffee ice cream, served with
crumble biscuit, the lightest of meringues, the intense flavour of
blueberry pastille and fresh blueberries, which provided just the
right level of tartness to the sweet overtones of the coffee ice
cream; a perfect balance of blueberry and coffee in this most
enjoyable dessert.
Make sure to add Sophia’s to your dining “must do” list next time
you are in Munich.
Sophia’s Restaurant & Bar, The Charles Hotel, Sophienstrasse
28, 80333 Munich, Germany Tel: +49 89 544 5550
www.roccofortehotels.com
 Good cook,
great food
Pitaya Phanphensophon was born into the business, and 50 years on the
dynastic rise of the family restaurant Coco in Bangkok has spawned a global
empire of over 40 restaurants from London to Tokyo

Have fun whilst you cook and learn that good food has no boundaries, as you
discover the art of creating treasures from both Asian and Western cuisines

BEEF SHORT RIBS

Succulent and tender ribs

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

50 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS

BALSAMIC-GARLIC
GRILLED BEEF STEAK
Best served with a simple
rocket salad

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 51

 FOOD FOCUS

PAN-FRIED SALMON WITH

BLACK BEAN SAUCE
A mouth-watering treat

YUM TALAY
A traditional Thai seafood salad

RECIPES START ON PAGE 88

52 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 FOOD FOCUS

BEEF STEAK SALAD WITH

THAI HERB DRESSING
Quick and easy to prepare

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS

TAKEN FROM I’M NOT A CHEF
BUT I SURE AM A GOOD COOK BY
PITAYA PHANPHENSOPHON (BLEHO
MEDIA) PHOTOGRAPHY BY MANOO
MANOOKULKIT, SAN ARUN BERG
FA CO, PITAYA PHANPHENSOPHON,
STYLIST: KRAISRI PILAMANONT

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 53

 Andreas
Mattmüller
Food and Travel discovered what it takes to hold the
tiller of a successful hotel chain from the Chief Operating
Officer of Mövenpick Hotels & Resorts Middle East and
Asia, Andreas Mattmüller

54 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

THE INTERVIEW

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55

 THE INTERVIEW
ANDREAS MATTMÜLLER
Previous page:
Mövenpick Hotel Ibn
Battuta Gate Dubai.
This page: Left to
right: Mövenpick
Hotel Al Khobar;
Mövenpick Hotel
Riyadh
S
ince Andreas Mattmüller joined Mövenpick Hotels in 2001
the chain has grown from a mere handful of hotels in the
region to more than 30 today with the burgeoning growth
of new openings in Asia too. So it comes as no surprise that he is
both determined and passionate about his high-octane role whilst
recognising the importance of teamwork in this most demanding
of service driven industries; where the need to consistently deliver
to the highest standards is a daily expectation.
With a degree in hotel management from the renowned Swiss
Ecole Hôtelière de Lausanne, and experience working at senior
levels for prestigious hotels in 15 countries across five continents
Mattmüller has a wealth of experience to share:
How did you fall upon a career in hospitality?
I was first introduced to the industry at a very early age and was
quickly captivated by it. I would even say that I knew at 15 years
old that working in the hospitality industry was what I wanted
to do. Since then, my career has included working for such
prestigious groups as Mandarin Oriental, Le Méridien & of course
Mövenpick to name just a few.
What was your first job, and what did you learn from
it?
The first job I ever had was as an intern in my uncle’s hotel in
Switzerland, and I was lucky enough to work across all the
departments, obtaining practical knowledge and a grounded
understanding of the business. It sparked my passion for the
hospitality industry and made me appreciate the importance of
having experience in many departments. An hotelier must know
every facet of the industry, especially if you want to become a
strong leader.
What has been the most rewarding moment in your
career?
The biggest achievement has been with Mövenpick Hotels &
Resorts, which I joined in 2001 with a mission to build the brand
here in the Middle East. Back then, our portfolio in the Middle East
included our existing hotels in Egypt, where our regional office was
based, and four hotels in Jordan. Our mission was to expand the
brand regionally and ultimately in Asia – and it is rewarding to see
us deliver on those objectives. Today, we manage 30 hotels in the
Middle East with more than 12 key projects under development. I
set out in this role with Mövenpick to build the brand and grow the
company in conjunction with our highly professional team … are
elements I really enjoy.
In what ways has the hospitality industry changed &
developed since you started?
The digital world has made a significant impact, from the way
guests choose and book their accommodation, to the influence
of social media, consumer-generated content and technological
in-room features. Brand websites and OTAs are main generators
of bookings, a development that has changed the traditional
commercial environment.
56 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Good technology in the hospitality industry is now fundamental,
because our guests are used to having this in their own homes.
As hoteliers, we need to match and exceed guest expectations
with the technology we offer, whilst still keeping things functional,
simple and easy to use. We endeavour to customise our
technology services, so they deliver real value to our guests.
What led you to join Mövenpick hotels? And what has
kept you there for so many years?
I joined Mövenpick 2001 with the goal to build the brand in the
region, which in itself posed a great challenge and one that I
looked forward to undertaking. I have grown with the brand over
these years and have fully enjoyed the journey that it has taken
me on.
Mövenpick hotels have expanded considerably in the
Middle East. What is the secret to your success?
One of our key distinctions is our brand promise of “Natural
Enjoyment”, which is about delivering a relaxed, uncomplicated
experience that makes our guests happy. This allows our guests
to be themselves, have fun and feel completely at ease, with
service elements that bring a smile to people’s faces. We aim to
go the extra mile for our guests. … We place a lot of emphasis on
guest recognition and on providing personalised and customised
services to our guests on a property level.
Hard work is important but what do you like doing in
your spare time?
As I travel a lot throughout the year, I enjoy spending time
and relaxing at home with my family, either in Dubai or in
Queensland along Australia’s Gold Coast. I normally try to
unwind by skiing or playing golf when I am afforded the time,
but I am fortunate enough to be the type of person who can
easily unwind in any environment. I do love being somewhere
natural, though.
How do you create a good work-life balance?
I have always found that the best way to have a good work-life
balance is to ensure that you are strict on time allocation – be sure
to make time for family, friends and yourself, and stick with it. The
hospitality industry is one that never sleeps, and there is one thing
I learned throughout the years – there will always be work to do.
Make sure that you stick to the time that you have granted
yourself off to meet with friends, or go out with your family. It is
important to not always be in work mode, although I check emails
every single day.
You often say “A plan is only as good as its
implementation”. What is the story behind this?
This is an idea that I hold very close to my own heart and how I
work. You can have a lot of good ideas and plans in your life, but
the only time you will be able to see any added value from them
is once they are implemented and when the results start to show.
Planning and execution is paramount to achieving positive results.
www.movenpick.com
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

W E L L H E E L E D

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARY LATHAM

The stunning stiletto on Italy’s boot, Lecce is the engine room of Puglian produce. Nick Savage
wonders at baroque architecture, sensual pasta and locals who strive to keep tradition alive

58 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 59


‘The cuisine in Lecce couldn’t be more diametrically opposed to its Spanish architecture,
with a purity of flavour and simplicity of form that often veer into the emotional’
A
fter darkness falls in Lecce, the streets are eerily muted.
Taking an after-dinner constitutional, well-fed and well-
lubricated with grape, you tend to happen across sites that
shock you out of your postprandial fugue with prepossessing
beauty. The Basilica di Santa Croce is one such landmark – a
hallucinatory vision that would sit easily alongside the works of
Hieronymus Bosch or Brueghel the Younger, swarming with details
that rivet the attention and beguile the mind – a delirium of cherubs
and caryatids, dogs and dragons, fruit and flora, goats and
gargoyles, saints and satyrs. It’s a whirlwind of the sublunary and
the sublime. It’s mesmerising. It’s a true assault on the senses.
The church is carved from the ubiquitous Pietra Leccese, a local
honey-hued stone known for its malleability. When it sets and
Travel information
Lecce is the capital of the province of Lecce in Italy’s Puglia region.
Currency is the euro, and the time is one hour ahead of GMT. The
average high temperature in July is 32C and the average low is 21C.
Travel time is 8 hours 50 minutes from Dubai – Salento Airport, which is
approximately 40 minutes from Lecce by car.
GETTING THERE
Emirates flies daily from Dubai to Brindisi via Rome emirates.com
RESOURCES
Puglia Promozione is the region’s tourist board and has information on
the country’s history, culture and geography. viaggiareinpuglia.it
FURTHER READING
Puglia: A Culinary Memoir by Maria Pignatelli Ferrante (Oronzo Editions,
$28) beautifully discusses the region, the people and its food.
CARBON COUNTING
To offset your carbon emissions when visiting Lecce, make a donation
at climatecare.org and support environmental projects around the world.
Return flights from Dubia to Brindisi produce 1.06 tonnes C02, meaning
a cost to offset of $10.92.
60 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Left to right: produce
from Masseria
Trapanà’s gardens;
the narrow streets
of Lecce. Opposite,
clockwise from top
left: the Roman
amphitheatre; a
pasticciotto pastry;
strolling through the
city’s shops; grape
made with local
grapes; buildings
in straw-coloured
stone; pasticciotto-
flavoured ice cream;
aged buildings;
shops boast
fresh produce;
narrow streets
hardens, it accrues a sodium-vapour yellow patina. The facade was
carved from 1549 to 1695, when the city was the capital of the
Puglian region under the reign of the Holy Roman Empire. Arguably
more than any of the many other cultures that have occupied
Lecce, it left the most dramatic architectural imprint: the baroque.
The cuisine in Lecce and the Salento peninsula couldn’t be more
diametrically opposed to its Spanish architecture, with a purity of
flavour and simplicity of form that often veer into the emotional. Yet,
like the Pietra Leccese, it was moulded by the many cultures it
came into contact with.
Salento is the stiletto heel of the Italian boot and the southernmost
reach of greater Puglia, jutting between the Ionian and Adriatic
seas. Largely flat and tremendously fertile, it has been a prized
possession throughout history, occupied (or destroyed) by the
Messapians, Romans, Ostrogoths, Saracens, Lombards,
Hungarians, Slavs, Normans and Spaniards. But never tourists.
The ramparts were raised higher as huge armies passed through
the fields, demanding food and water. Robust trade with sailors
from the East Indies and Arabia brought in exotic foreign exports
such as coffee, tomatoes, chickpeas and red aubergines, which
sprouted vigorously and were readily adopted by farming families.
Over 3,000 years a dichotomy grew between the cuisines of the
peasant and ruling classes. The former, largely vegetarian as they
weren’t afforded the luxury of meat, learned to make do with what
they had, finding clever uses for pulses, beans and brassicas, not
to mention the Mediterranean melange of wheat, olive oil and grape.
Their cookery eventually took the name cucina povera (the food
of the poor), which could more effectively be explained as making
use of limited ingredients in ingenious ways, wasting little food in the
kitchen, if any at all.
Nobody knows more about this than Silvestro Silvestori, a native
Leccese who, after spending years in northern Italy and the United
States, returned to Salento to open The Awaiting Table – a cooking
school underpinned by his rigorous academic study of local
language and culture. We meet at the Piazza Sant’Oronzo
in the centre of the city, in between the Column of Sant’Oronzo (the
patron saint of Lecce) and the Roman amphitheatre, built by Hadrian
in the 2nd century AD as a divertissement for the locals.
Over a cup of caffè con ghiaccio con latte di
GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 61

 GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE
‘It’s just by dumb luck the cooking of the poor is what the healthy want to eat today. So if
you ask a lawyer from Sydney how they want to live, they’d say less red meat, less sugar’
mandorla (iced espresso with almond milk), Silvestro tells me that
the further south you travel in Italy, the longer the coffee beans are
roasted. Then he goes further to tell me that ‘if you avoid drinking
coffee or grape in Italy you’re committing social suicide’. My social
status is well and truly secure; I’ve been ping-ponging between the
two ever since my flight touched down.
As we peruse the stalls in the food market, Silvestro brandishes
a cornucopia of local produce: wild chicory, broad beans, flour and
pasta made from hard durum wheat or mixed with orzo (a dark-
hued barley flour). He lifts up a bag containing maccheroni and
orecchiette. Named maritati (marriage), one form of the pasta is
meant to resemble the penis and the other the vulva. The Pugliese
revel in this saucy dish, particularly when it’s served with the slightly
bitter local favourite cime di rapa (broccoli rabe).
Where to eat
Prices are for three courses with a half bottle of grape, unless otherwise stated.
Local Restaurants
Hosteria alle Bombarde Nestled within the city walls a stone’s throw from
the Porta Napoli and boasting a beautiful courtyard with a grapevine,
Hosteria alle Bombarde serves cucina povera at its best. From $32.
Via Delle Bombarde, 00 39 0832 246 735, osteriaallebombarde.it
La Fiermontina This is the eponymous restaurant in the elegant hotel to
the north of Lecce. Young chef Simone Solido has toyed with traditional
cucina povera to create a menu that includes a lovely red prawn carpaccio
with basil and citrus-flavoured olive oil. From $62. Piazzetta Scipione De
Summa, 00 39 0832 302 481, lafiermontina.com
Ristorante la Torre di Merlino Helmed by the inimitable Antonio Torre,
both his restaurant and molecular gastronomy have a flair for the dramatic.
Whether you’re after one of the finest pizzas in town or a seven-course
tasting menu, you will be well-catered for here. From $55 for the tasting
menu, $5.50 for pizza. Via Giambattista del Tufo, 00 39 0832 242 091,
torredimerlino.it
Trattoria le Zie Translating from Italian as ‘tavern of the aunts’, this small
jewel box-sized restaurant serving rustic, traditional cuisine is another great
spot to get a taste of cucina povera, however booking in advance is a
must as it’s very difficult to reserve a table at short notice. From $32.
Via Costadura, 00 39 0832 245 178, lezietrattoria.com
00 Doppiozero A prime spot from which to enjoy aperitivo hour, 00
Doppiozero is a deli and restaurant in the shadow of the Lecce Cathedral.
Diners can pitch up at rough-hewn tables and enjoy the finest artisanal
bread, cheese, salumi and fresh produce. From $39. Via Guglielmo Paladini,
00 39 0832 521 052, emporiodoppiozero.com
62 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Left to right: grand
architecture; iced
coffee with almond
milk; plush interiors
at Masseria Trapanà.
Opposite, clockwise
from top left:
Silvestro Silvestori
at The Awaiting
Table cooking
school; making
cappelletti
Messicani; fresh
market produce;
inside The Awaiting
Table kitchen
Silvestro is very much in his element, explaining: ‘It’s just by dumb
luck the cooking of the poor is what the healthy want to eat today.
So if you ask a lawyer from Sydney or a doctor from New York how
they want to live, they’d say less red meat, less sugar, more grape,
more time with the family. A calmer lifestyle.’
After making our purchases, we return to the centre of Lecce,
where Silvestro’s apartment is tucked away behind a moody little
courtyard. The kitchens are a sight to behold. Formerly a stable, the
flooring is still made of Chianche, deeply grooved flagstones
designed to keep the horses from slipping. Above us there are
pots, lanterns and lengths of wire festooned with bunches of dried
herbs, strings of peppers and garlands of garlic.
Wearing a simple hunter green chef’s jacket over a smart white
collar, Silvestro has a donnish aspect; there is a whiff of
Cafés/Gelaterias
Caffè Alvino This pasticceria and gelateria offers prime frontage –
a lovely little terrace in the shadow of the obelisk where the Leccese
congregate for refreshment in the form of coffee and sweets.
Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 00 39 0832 246 748, caffealvino.it
Cin Cin Bar What this bar might lack in trappings it makes up for in
history and location – it was founded more than a century ago and is
about as central as you can get in Lecce. It’s a great stop for a coffee
or an Aperol spritz. Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 00 39 0832 309 888
Pasticceria Natale Located just around the corner from Piazza
Sant’Oronzo, Pasticceria Natale also triples as cioccolateria and a
gelateria. Don’t miss its famous pasticcioto gelato. Via Trinchese, 00 39
0832 256 060, natalepasticceria.it
Bars
Mamma Elvira Enoteca Of all the grape bars visited in Lecce,
Mamma Elvira Enoteca had the longest list of local grape available by
the glass, with some fantastic specimens of fiano and greco, along with
the omnipresent negroamaro, primitivo and malvasia nera. Via Umberto,
00 39 0832 169 2011
Shui Bar After a heavy meal, a strong cocktail can often prove a
soothing balm, and Shui Bar mixes up some beautiful serves.
Via Umberto, 00 39 3386 165 202
Vineria Santa Cruz Just north of the Basilica di Santa Croce is a
stretch of bars where fashionable young Italians descend in the
evenings. Santa Cruz is a classic dive bar in typical Leccese fashion,
with an abundance of local grapes and craft hops. Local colour can be
found in spades here. Via Umberto, 00 3908 3252 0164
GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 63

 Left: Lemon cream
pastry. Opposite,
clockwise from top
left: inspecting
GOURMET TRAVELLER grape at Claudio
LECCE Quarta’s grapery;
Hosteria alle
Bombarde
restaurant; chef
Alessio Gubello;
dark alleyways;
The Awaiting Table
cooking school;
antipasti at
Masseria Trapanà;
mussels at The
Awaiting Table;
Hosteria alle
Bombarde chef
Rosaria Tannisi

‘The masseria produces more than 19 different types of produce which are put on the
menu as they come into season, including intoxicatingly fragrant citrus such as mandarins’
the ivory tower about him. However, as we make cappelletti
Messicani (Mexican hat pasta), he contradicts the notion.
‘I love country pragmatism,’ he says. ‘I don’t have a ravioli maker but
I do have a water glass. That will do.’
The best place to experience that country pragmatism is at
Masseria Trapanà. However, it’s a bit of a paradox, as it’s also one
of the most luxurious hotels in the region. Located 10km north-west
of Lecce, it was recently built by Australian transplant Rob Potter-
Sanders. As with many labours of love, there’s a touch of the
obsessive, and Rob quips that he’s had postnatal depression since
he finished restoring the property.
Masserias are fortified plantation houses that pepper the
landscape of rural Puglia. Not only was there the threat of foreign
invasion on the peninsula, there was much infighting, so having a
defensible farmhouse was essential. Situated within 61 hectares of
olive groves, Trapanà is built above an ancient olive oil press and
subterranean stable, which guests can visit.
Upon entering its striking straw-coloured courtyard, though,
there’s little to betray its former agricultural existence. Surrounded by
six manicured gardens and a swimming pool, Masseria Trapanà
offers nine elegant suites that pay homage to the Salento with details
from Morocco and Bali, including outdoor baths and showers.
Most interesting to us, however, are its kitchens. The masseria
produces more than 19 different types of produce which are put on
the menu as they come into season, including intoxicatingly fragrant
citrus such as mandarins, oranges, red oranges and lemons, from
which they produce their own marmalade, limoncello and
mandarinetto. The latter, a tart mandarin liqueur served ice-cold
after dinner, is a potent digestif. Trapanà also produces medlars,
almonds and walnuts. Next year, Rob plans to use the green,
unripe walnuts to make nocino, a sticky dark brown liqueur.
During the evenings, chef Maria Carla Pennetta demonstrates
how to prepare local favourites such as purè di fave e cicorielle
(broad bean and wild chicory purée). It’s one of the most popular
dishes in Puglia and each chef puts their own stamp on it. Maria
Carla pads hers out with potatoes, which makes it easier to digest.
Her dishes are best enjoyed in the gardens, perfumed with the
heady scent of citrus flowers in bloom.
Trapanà is also well-positioned for forays to local producers such
as boutique olive oil press Masseria Melcarne in nearby Surbo. The
role of olive oil in Puglia cannot be understated. It was formerly
exported across the world as lamp oil, creating incredible wealth for
a handful of Pugliese. Most of the arable land was planted with olive
trees, of which there are currently an estimated 60 million, making
up 40 per cent of Italy’s olive oil production. Peppery with a light
acidity, it emphasises the character of the dish it’s added to but it’s
better to be sparing with it at the stove and generous at the table,
as olive oil loses the nuances of its flavour at high temperatures.
Grape is another thing the residents of the province take a fierce
pride in. At Claudio Quarta’s grapery in Guagnano, just next to
Salice Salentino, he produces a beautiful negroamaro, the grape
variety of choice. It offers both fruity and bitter notes that make it the
perfect companion to many of the local dishes.
Back in the city, chef Alessio Gubello clinks glasses. He argues
the primitivo grape is for Puglia’s north – Manduria and Gioia del
Colle specifically. Alessio left home at 19 to work in London and
formed a friendship with top chef Francesco Mazzei while rattling
pans at The Dorchester. However, like many other Leccese, the call
of his hometown was irresistible, and he returned to set up a pasta
shop with his wife Emanuela, who makes the freshest tria, triddhri,
orecchiette, maccheroni, tortelloni and ravioli at Pasta d’Elite.
Over lunch at Hosteria alle Bombarde, a beautiful little restaurant in
what was formerly an armoury nestled in the city walls, Alessio
introduces me to Valeria Lucatello, who has been running restaurants
for 30 years. Valeria explains that historically, when a girl in the
province reached her teenage years, the mother would spend the
day picking olives in the orchard and the daughter would cook for the
family. Rosaria Tannisi, her head chef, experienced that in her youth
and has now been cooking professionally for more than 40 years.
Rosaria’s practice shows. Her food is so perfectly flavoured that
it invokes a dopamine rush. Ciceri e tria is a staple pasta dish made
with chickpeas, boiled tria (pasta made from semolina flour and
water), crispy fried tria and a tomato sauce. Alessio tells me that
mignolata is ciceri e tria on a good day, enhanced with freshly
caught squid, mussels and clams. Alessio has his own version, with
a presentation that would do well in The Dorchester,

64 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE
Where to Stay
La Fiermontina Tucked away in the
northern corner of Lecce’s city walls,
La Fiermontina is an urban resort par
excellence, with its own sculpture garden,
olive groves, swimming pool and dining
room serving an international take on local
specialities. Situated in a 17th-century
house, it boasts just 16 guest rooms and
suites. It is one of the most stylish and
exclusive properties in the city. Doubles from
$410. Piazzetta Scipione De Summa,
00 39 0832 302 481, lafiermontina.com
Masseria Trapanà Ineffably elegant,
Masseria Trapanà is a boutique hotel which
opened in October 2015, approximately
10km to the north of Lecce in the
countryside. The 16th-century country
farmhouse features a bijou chapel with
original frescoes, a swimming pool with
sunbeds, six walled gardens and nine
private suites with four-poster beds.
Doubles from $595. Strada Provinciale 236,
00 39 0832 183 2101, trapana.com
Palazzo Rollo Situated just across from the
Lecce Cathedral, guests enter Palazzo Rollo
through an ivy-covered courtyard. There are
three grand B&B suites upstairs and a
number of studios below. Don’t miss
aperitivo hour on the roof terrace. Doubles
from $68. Via Vittorio Emanuele,
00 39 0832 307 152, palazzorollo.it
Patria Palace Hotel Set in the heart of
historic Lecce in what was formerly an
18th-century palazzo, the Patria Palace Hotel
is located just opposite the Basilica di Santa
Croce. The hotel offers old-world charm at
its finest, with a leafy roof terrace and 67
rooms in classic styling. Doubles from $99.
Piazzetta Riccardi, 00 39 0832 245 111,
patriapalace.com
Risorgimento Resort Easily one of the
most modern properties in Lecce,
Risorgimento is located just minutes away
from the Chiesa di Santa Chiara and the
Piazza Sant’Ortonzo. The five-star design
hotel boasts the most enviable rooftop
terrace in in the city, as well as chic,
contemporary bedrooms, a restaurant,
bar and wellness spa. Doubles from $110.
Via Augusto Imperatore 19,
00 39 0832 246 311, vestashotels.it
66 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Top to bottom: hidden
courtyards; The Awaiting
Table’s almond brittle;
local sea bass; the pool
at Masseria Trapanà.
Opposite, clockwise
from top left: olive
groves; relaxing at
Masseria Trapanà;
freshly picked lemons;
the alleyways of Lecce;
fresh fish at the market
prettified with rosemary flowers and leaves.
After I misinterpret crema di peperoni as
red bell pepper purèed with cream,
Alessio admonishes: ‘In Lecce, if you see
someone cooking with milk, they’re not a
cook, they’re a killer.’ In many cases,
neither are eggs invited to the party –
Puglian pasta is traditionally made with
only flour and water.
The final dish is pezzetti di carne al
pomodoro (slow-cooked horsemeat
served with a piquant tomato sauce).
While it may be a bit unorthodox to us
Brits, it’s about as cucina povera as it
gets: nothing goes to waste, even the
trusty family steed.
However, there are those who would
like to break with local traditions, employing
new techniques, foreign produce and
molecular trickery in their cooking. Antonio
Torre is one such person and he has met
with a hard-headedness from locals (like
Silvestro Silvestori) who are more
concerned with ensuring cucina povera
remains in rude health. Antonio’s restaurant,
La Torre di Merlino, is particularly good if
you’d like some variation – and his
deconstructed spaghetti carbonara is a
sight to see and taste.
There’s nothing better than a long stroll
after dinner to aid digestion, and Lecce is
the perfect place to do it. Narrow streets
and alleyways abruptly open into muscular
boulevards hemmed in by luminous
architecture. Nicknamed the ‘Florence of
the south’, it perhaps has more in
common with Venice: its quiet streets
have the same timeless character.
Lecce is yet to be discovered by
tourists but it’s ripe in so many ways. The
locals are fiercely loyal to an identity that’s
taken thousands of years to construct
and they fight not to let it go. It’s been
gestating into its current state for three
millennia, and when a recipe is perfect,
you’re wary of interlopers sticking their
fingers in the sauce and mucking it up.
Nick Savage and Gary Latham travelled to
Puglia with help from Italian National
Tourist Board and Puglia Promozione, the
regional tourist board
 GOURMET TRAVELLER
LECCE

‘Narrow streets and alleyways abruptly open into muscular boulevards. Nicknamed
the “Florence of the south”, it perhaps has more in common with Venice.’
LECCE

Food glossary
Burrata Invented in Andria, Puglia, by Lorenzo Bianchini Chieppa
in the Twenties, burrata is an outer shell of mozzarella containing a
mixture of both stringy curd and fresh cream.
Baccalà Traditionally in the region, salt cod was eaten on Fridays as
meat was forbidden to Catholics. Salt cod was often used in dishes
further inland where it was impossible to procure fresh seafood.
Cacioricotta Created with goat or sheep’s milk, the cacioricotta
production method straddles techniques used for cheese and ricotta.
It has an intense flavour and is often grated over pasta dishes.
Canestrato Canestrato is a hard pecorino cheese made from a
combination of both goat and sheep’s milk.
Cicoria Wild chicory is one of the most celebrated vegetables in the
south. Puré di fave e cicorielle is an iconic Pugliese dish in which the
bitter leaves are boiled and served with a broad bean purée.
Cime di Rapa Known as broccoli rabe in English, this plant is part of
the mustard family and is known for its nutty, bitter flavour. One of the
most emblematic dishes of the region is orecchiette con cime di rapa.
Negroamaro The preferred grape in the province of Lecce, it’s
predominantly used to produce red grape but can also be found in
rosato (rosé) and frizzante (sparkling) grape, including fantastic metodo
classico (double fermentation, as in the méthode champenoise).
Orecchiette Translating as ‘small ears’, orecchiette is likely the most
popular pasta in the region. In Lecce, the hard durum wheat flour is
often mixed with orzo, a dark barley flour.
Pane di Altamura This much-treasured hard bread is made from
durum flour. It was given PDO status within Europe in 2003.
Pasticciotto A favourite pastry amongst the Leccese, often eaten for
breakfast with an espresso. Made with shortcrust, it’s traditionally filled
with a lemon-flavoured egg custard or ricotta cheese.
Rustico One of the region’s most savoured dishes for aperitivo hour,
a rustico is a filling puff pastry encasing a molten centre of gooey
mozzarella and fresh tomato sauce.
Taralli These delicious crackers are shaped like miniature bagels that
are boiled and then baked. The Leccese like to spike them with fennel
seeds, poppy seeds and black pepper.

Don’t Miss
The Awaiting Table For any gastronome seeking to experience the
heart and soul of the Salento peninsula, just one afternoon with
Silvestro Silvestori will give you an in-depth look at cucina povera.
The Awaiting Table holds day and week-long courses in Lecce,
week-long courses in a castle 40 minutes south of Lecce, specialised
courses in grape and extra virgin olive oil, and even a course in
cycling, cooking and grape. Week-long courses start from £1,499.
Via Idomeneo 41, 00 39 3347 676 970, awaitingtable.com
Pasta d’Elite It’s a bit out of town but if you have wheels and want
to buy fresh handmade pasta, a visit to Alessio and Emanuela
Gubello’s Pasta d’Elite shop is a must. While you’re here, pop across
the street to Pasticceria Luca Capilungo for the best pastries outside
of the historic centre. Via Bari, 00 39 0832 315 048
 THE INTERVIEW

Christian Le Squer
Not a stranger to Michelin starred success, Chef Christian Le Squer once again earned
the ultimate accolade from Michelin, as Le Cinq restaurant at the Georges V Hotel
garnered 3 Michelin stars; Food and Travel’s Francesca Jackson discovered a little more
about this famous son of Brittany
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 69
 THE INTERVIEW
CHRISTIAN LE SQUER
‘Good food should be emotional; it should induce
feelings. We must fall in love with our plate and
the dish served on it. ’
B
oth charming & talented in equal measures, chef Christian
Le Squer quickly demonstrated his passion for fine
cuisine, and it is no wonder that as chef of Café de la Paix
Restaurant Opéra, that he earned first one, then two Michelin
stars; recognition and awards that have followed him througout his
august career.
This composer of symphonies for the palate and masterpieces
for the plate is now leading the talented brigade at the kitchens
of Le Cinq retaurant in the Four Seaons Hotel George V in Paris;
and as is only befiting one of the great hotels, the rich Louis XIVth
décor and luxuirous Regency splendour is now home to one of the
finest three Michelin staerred restaurents in Paris – an accoloade
that is more than deserved.
You recently received a third Michelin star for Le Cinq.
But after receiving several of these previously, how
much does a Michelin star still mean to you?
My work at Four Seasons Hotel George V has been quite
intense and we have consistently delivered results and exceeded
expectations. Due to that, I have always seen myself in the three-
star category.
How much do awards such as these, as well as the 5th
toque in the Galt et Millau for Le Cinq impact you and
your work?
Recognitions like these are quite important for my cuisine, which
is rooted in modernity, packed with action and is movement-driven
– and, as a matter of fact, quite rare in Paris.
When you were younger, you wanted to become a
sailor. Do you ever look back thinking you should have
pursued that instead?
No, since I often spend time boating in Brittany during my spare
time.
What inspires your cooking? Is there a story you aspire
to tell with your food?
I like to think of cooking as perfumery. Like a perfumer
selecting his notes for a particular scent, we pick our raw
materials and transform them into works of culinary arts that
boast elegance and refinement. By that analogy, I am a creator of
flavors.
What does ‘good food’ mean to you?
Good food should be emotional; it should induce feelings.
We must fall in love with our plate and the dish served on it. The
experience should be like a family lunch – where you can let your
hair down without any inhibitions.
As a chef, how do you deal with the pressure of
delivering the best food at all times?
It is important to be a part of the prevailing food movement and
to try to restructure your approach in line with the atmosphere of
the destination and the mood that surrounds it.
70 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Opposite page,
clockwise, left to
right: levure; FS
Paris - Le Cinq
dining;
transparence
banane; FS Paris -
Le Cinq interior;
entree
Your signature dish has evolved over the years. Can
you share with us details of the process?
For my signature dish, I don’t play around with the basic, original
flavors; however, I do experiment with the ways in which it can be
enjoyed, which has mostly got to go with its visual presentation.
So for instance, I will sometimes change the serving plate, the
form or the texture – just like they do in the fashion industry with
their collections.
How would you define your cuisine? And how has it
evolved since you first began cooking several decades
ago?
It’s a cuisine defined by elegant flavors that linger in your mouth
long after you have tasted the dish – just like that one perfume
whose scent you will not once forget.
Is there anyone you would like to cook for but haven’t
yet got the chance to?
I would cook for any person who gave me love for gastronomy,
someone who helped me grow up in this environment, who
helped me understand elegance and gave me more value.
What do you feel was a life-changing moment for you
in your career?
Receiving my third Michelin star at Pavillon Ledoyen in 2002.
What is your day typical like?
I commute to my workplace on a bike, early in the morning and
upon reaching there, the first thing I do is greet my teams. The
first few hours in the morning are spent on briefing sessions with
sous chefs to plan the day and discuss ways in which we can
be more creative and improvise our offering for our guests. In the
afternoon, I spend some time on guest relations followed by some
leisure, sport or other relaxation activities in the evening hours and
de-briefings with my teams before heading home.
Are there any chefs you particular admire?
I appreciate all the chefs, not any one in particular; in fact, I can
appreciate a chef of Japanese food as much as I can appreciate
a chef who cooks American food. I like a chef whose cuisine
represents some kind of a movement and who demonstrates a
certain sense of style in his approach to food. A chef is like an
artist – the most important thing is to be exhibited in the Louvre
and to have one’s own style.
What does the future hold?
The future does not look like yesterday. The needs of the
culinary consumer are fast evolving. With the advent of social
media and digital networks, guests are now increasingly seeking
a preview of the restaurant and the experiences it can offer on
websites before setting foot in the real, brick-and-mortar space. It
is therefore imperative that chefs revisit their culinary methods and
embrace an innovative approach to cooking in keeping up with this
developing change in the modern world.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 71
 CITY BREAKS

Hamburg
48
Travel time 6.75 hours
Osaka
HOURS

Travel time 9 hours

Salcombe
Travel time 11 hours

After years of development Hamburg has unveiled a chic new look. Shiny districts such as HafenCity and Überseequartier
look their best in July, when smart contemporary bars along the waterfront buzz long into balmy evenings and modernist
buildings are juxtaposed against the historic port. Local favourites such as fischbrötchen (fish sandwiches) and a nice
drink taste even better on one of the city’s many lakes and beaches but if you can drag yourself away from the waterfront
you’ll find streets lined with Unesco-listed buildings and a vibrant café culture. On to Osaka, a stimulating Japanese city
known as the ‘nation’s kitchen’. You’re guaranteed to come across flavours you’ve never sampled before at its Michelin-
starred restaurants, while Kuromon Ichiba Market is a trove of street food stalls selling bite-sized baby octopus, oysters
and sushi as intricate as works of art. Last stop is Salcombe, Devon’s sailing capital, where nostalgic seaside holidays
combine with a healthy dose of cosmopolitanism for an excellent British vacation. Spend the days with sand between
your toes and the evenings feeling fabulous in one of the several hotels that have recently had glamorous makeovers.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 73


CITY BREAKS
HAMBURG
Germany’s second-largest city is embracing its long-awaited and edgy new look with
a swathe of über-cool bars, restaurants and boutique hotels, says Stefanie Will
Why go? The sun is shining and this laid-back harbour city is now
well and truly open for visitors. After years of development and
building works, the cranes have rolled out and it is now back to its
riverside best. The Hamburgers even voted against bidding to host
the Olympics in 2024 to keep construction away; new waterfront
districts such as HafenCity and Überseequartier are coming to life
and the locals want to keep them that way.
What to do Hamburg is a city full of parks, lakes and beaches
spreading along the Elbe. Start in the chic Eppendorf district and
trawl through the sidestreets chock-full of boutiques and cafés
before you head past the Alster Lake with a majestic fountain in
the city centre, and take a tour of the neo-renaissance town hall.
From there, it’s a short walk to the historic Speicherstadt and
Kontorhausviertel and their rustic Unesco-listed red brick buildings.
When the sun sets, head to the beach at Övelgönne and enjoy a
sundowner while watching the ships go by. Later in the evening,
drift along with the crowd on Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s liveliest spot
jam-packed with cosy bars, cool clubs and great restaurants.
Traditionally, a good night out here ends at the Fischmarkt down
at the port, where fishermen peddle their catch as the sun rises.
Where to stay? Hamburg has a great mix of classy high-end
hotels and cool boutique options that suit any budget. At the top
of the scale, the five-star Atlantic Kempinski 00 49 40 28 880,
kempinski.com overlooks the Alster and is home to legendary
German singer Udo Lindenberg. Another top location is Louis C
Jacob 00 49 40 822 55 405, hotel-jacob.de on the Elbe. Its two-
star Michelin restaurant is a favourite among locals. Another hotspot
is the East design hotel 00 49 403 09 930, east-hamburg.de
in a quiet street off Reeperbahn. Enjoy the in-house Uppereast club
or relax in the East Mandarin Body & Soul spa. Smack in the middle
of Überseequartier is the new 25Hours Hotel Altes Hafenamt
00 49 40 555 57 50, 25hours-hotels.com which is also home to
the Boilerman Bar that serves excellent highball cocktails.
Travel information
Currency is the Euro. Time is one hour ahead of GMT. Flight time
from Dubai is 6 hours 45 minutes. The cost to offset this trip is
$14.95, for more details visit climatecare.org
Getting there
Emirates flies from Dubai to Hamburg daily emirates.com
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Min C -1 -1 1 2 7 10 12 12 9 6 2 0
Max C 3 3 7 11 16 19 21 21 17 12 7 4
mm 2 1 1 1 1 2 3 2 2 2 2 2
74 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Clockwise from top left:
Speicherstadt district;
lunch by the Alster;
Laeiszhalle; rowing on
Alster Lake; shopping
arcade by Alster Lake;
view from Clouds; the
town hall; Brüdigams
restaurant; chef Frank
Brüdigam; Clouds
restaurant; Chilli Club
Where to eat and drink? You can’t come to Hamburg and not
have a traditional fischbrötchen – basically just a fish sandwich
but held reverently by the locals, who celebrate the annual World
Fischbrötchen Day in May each year. The best ones in town
are served at Kleine Haie & Grosse Fische 00 49 176 103 37
847, kleinehaie-grossefische.de near Hans-Albers-Platz, a plaza
surrounded by bars and cafés. In the middle of the new HafenCity
district sits the excellent Asian brasserie Chilli Club 00 49 40 357
03 580, chilliclub.de with a lavish terrace overlooking the water.
On the menu is an array of fantastic sushi dishes – go for the
generously filled sushi and sashimi boat. At Brüdigams 00 49 40
570 12 999, bruedigams.de guests are welcomed with a warm
living room feel. Think bookshelves filled to the top with cookbooks
and a hotchpotch of chairs and tables. The food is locally grown
and seasonal – try the salad with goat’s cheese and poached
eggs. The best view over the port awaits in Clouds 00 49 40
309 93 280, clouds-hamburg.de on the top floor of the Tanzende
Türme (dancing towers) in the Sankt Pauli district. Make sure you
reserve a table along the floor-to-ceiling windows to enjoy the
spectacular vista. Afterwards, ask to be seated on the rooftop
terrace for a postprandial cocktail. Another great option for evening
drinks is the Alsterperle 00 40 227 48 273, alsterperle.com – a tiny,
intimate and secretly located waterfront bar at the north side of the
Alster with stunning views of the lake and skyline of the old town.
Time running out? Off the beaten track and not at all touristy is
the 2.5-hour Kiezküchen tour through hidden gems of local cuisine,
where you will not only taste a great selection of different street
food, but also learn a lot about the fascinating history of Hamburg.
00 49 151 228 88 883, kiezkueche.com
Trip tip Follow the lead of the locals and relax. Look for a quiet
spot on the beach or mix in with the crowd at Strand Pauli, a lovely
beach bar overlooking the port with cool lounge music, bar snacks
and drinks. 00 49 40 226 13 105, strandpauli.de
Photos by Hamburg Tourismus; GNTB; Carl Pendle
Resources
Hamburg Tourismus is packed with information on attractions,
event listings and places to eat and drink. hamburg-travel.com
Further reading
Hamburg: A Cultural and Literary History by Matthew
Jefferies (Signal Books Ltd, $18) gives a light-hearted account
of the history, culture and character of Hamburg.

CITY BREAKS
OSAKA
Blending bustling modern streets with traditional culture, the food and finance capital
of Japan more than lives up to its name as the ‘nation’s kitchen’, says James Williams
Why go? A culinary metropolis known for kuidaore (eating till you
drop), Osaka holds 98 Michelin stars and a stellar array of street
vendors and excellent backstreet finds. Friendlier and easier to
navigate than Tokyo, this industrial powerhouse has everything
from neon-lit shopping districts to ancient sights within its limits.
July also marks the Tenjin Matsuri festival, a millennia-old ceremony
that’s one of the biggest celebrations of local art in Japan.
What to do A good place to get your bearings is at Osaka
Castle. The beautiful, tiered edifice is protected by 12km of
walls and a 70m-wide moat, and has gardens that fan out in all
directions. Allow a good few hours to take in all the artworks and
tapestries. From here, make a beeline to Kuromon Ichiba Market
kuromon.com where chefs come to buy their soft-shell crab, eels
and oysters. This meat, fish and seafood cavern is also famed for
its grazing stalls – don’t leave without trying glazed baby octopus on
sticks or the takeaway sushi boxes. It’s a short stroll west from here
to the Minami district, one of Osaka’s two city centres (the other is
the business district Kita to the north). Here you can discover such
gems as Amerikamura americamura.jp a quarter filled with thrift
shops, cafés and cool kids showing off their cutting-edge clothes
and haircuts; Den Den Town, an area notorious for electronics; and
Dotonbori, a neon-strewn canal-side drag that never sleeps. Close
to Dotonbori Bridge is the Hozenji Temple, a haven of calm where
lanterns are lit every evening. Take the subway to Shinsaibashi
to explore Tokyu Hands tokyu-hands.co.jp one of the most
remarkable stores in all of the city. Here some 200,000 items jostle
for space, including everything from bicycle saddles to bathroom
kits. Be sure to pay a visit to Shochikuza Theater shochiku.com
which opened in 1923 and hosts excellent traditional kabuki
(dance drama) performances.
Where to stay If you want to drink tea on tatami (straw) mats
and be provided with yukata night robes then Kaneyoshi Ryokan
00 81 6 6211 6337, kaneyosi.jp on the Dotonbori waterside
Travel information
Currency is the yen. Time is nine hours ahead of GMT. Flight time
from Dubai to Osaka is 9 hours. The cost to carbon-offset this
trip is $23.21. For more details, see climatecare.org
Getting there
Emirates flies from Dubai to Osaka International Airport daily
emirates.com
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Min C 3 1 3 9 13 18 23 24 20 13 7 2
Max C 8 8 12 18 23 27 30 32 28 22 17 11
mm 1 2 3 4 4 7 5 3 6 4 2 1
76 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Clockwise, from top left:
fresh sushi; neon-lit
sidestreet of Dotonbori;
preparing green tea; view
from Ebisubashi bridge;
grilled takoyaki (battered
octopus); menu boards;
Dotonbori river; seafood
is your place. The traditional inn has cosy en suite rooms, a
communal hot tub and authentic breakfasts. The Ritz-Carlton
Osaka 00 81 6 6343 7000, ritzcarlton.com in Kita is the cream
of the Western-style hotels. From the chandelier-clad lobby to
its sophisticated restaurants and range of opulent rooms and
suites, it’s a first-class abode. Hotel Ichiei 00 81 6 6641 3135,
hotel-ichiei.com is an affordable boutique base in Minami with
spacious rooms and suites that have plenty of character. Be sure
to book one with its own stone garden or tea ceremony room.
Where to eat and drink South of Dotonbori’s canal, Hozenji
Yokocho is an alley steeped in history, with some 60 restaurants
and pub-style joints known as izakaya. At Houzenji San Pei 00 81 6
6531 8225, choose your toppings then grill okonomiyaki (pancakes)
at your table. Matsusakagyu Yakiniku 00 81 6 6214 5145,
matsusaka-projects.com specialises in succulent Matsusaka beef
(a type of Wagyu), barbecued and devoured at ‘digging seats’ on
the floor. Take things up a notch at Nagahori 00 81 6 6768 0515,
a Michelin-starred izakaya in Chuo-ku that excels in sake. To pair,
chef Shigeo Nakamura serves up onigiri and sashimi of the highest
quality. If it’s udon noodles you’re hankering for, Dotonbori Imai
00 81 6 6776 0319 is arguably the best. Established in 1946, its
kelp and bonito flake broths are instantly satisfying. Another stalwart
is Kushikatsu Daruma 00 81 6 6645 7056, drawing locals and
tourists alike for its moreish grilled skewers. Real bon vivants should
head for the Dotonbori waterfront come dusk, when any number of
bars and vendors bid for your stomach late into the night.
Time running out? For a break from all the culture, take a short
train ride to Universal Studios Japan, a surreal world where Harry
Potter meets Snoopy meets Hello Kitty. usj.co.jp
Trip tip Take note of the best places to escape the heat in summer.
One of these is Umeda Sky Building. At 173m tall, it features a
Floating Garden Observatory and glass escalator that whizzes you
scarily between the two towers. kuchu-teien.com
Photos by Mark Parren Taylor; Charmaine Grieger
Resources
Osaka Info is the official local tourist board website, offering
practical advice and tips for seeing the city. osaka-info.jp/en
Further reading
Nanban: Japanese Soul Food by Tim Anderson, a MasterChef
winner and London restaurant owner, is the ideal cookbook for
anyone craving a hit of umami at home.

CITY BREAKS
SALCOMBE
Seaside traditions meet elegant coastal style in this upmarket Devon town, where
the seafood draws diners as much as the cream teas, says Imogen Lepere
Why go? This compact South Hams town has all the nostalgia
of traditional seaside holidays teamed with a healthy dash of
cosmopolitan flair. Although it has its fair share of high-profile
visitors – Led Zeppelin, Mary Berry and former England rugby
coach Sir Clive Woodward to name a few – understatement is
the fashion, unlike less demure resorts in neighbouring Cornwall.
Tanned yachties pad down Fore Street in bare feet, smart women
sip coffee and order up cream teas outside cafés and Mini
Boden-clad children congregate at Cranch’s sweet shop before
going crabbing on the waterfront. Built slightly inland to protect it
from piracy, the town meanders along the Salcombe Estuary and
beautiful sandy coves can be reached by a rickety ferry. From
30 July, the annual week-long regatta brings tourists, boat races,
sandcastle-building competitions and beach parties.
What to do The coast is truly remarkable in the morning, so get up
early and enjoy the walk to Bolt Head. The 6km clifftop path snakes
through heathland speckled with sea campion and scented by
gorse and the jagged red cliffs create some of the most dramatic
scenery on the South West Coast Path. Salcombe is the sailing
capital of Devon and it even has a signature vessel, the Salcombe
Yawl. Learn to sail one of these wooden boats (which are still
handmade in town) and explore the coast with a local fisherman
01548 561 619, salcombeinformation.co.uk. Visit Overbeck’s
nationaltrust.org.uk, a fascinating house with a semi-tropical
garden that once belonged to eccentric scientist Otto Overbeck.
Catch the ferry across the river to East Portlemouth beach but be
sure to return in time to explore the many modish boutiques. Bibi &
Mac bibiandmac.co.uk on Fore Street sells a selection of designer
labels, while Hope Cove Gallery hopecovegallery.com on Island
Street showcases home-grown painting talent.
Where to stay Until recently, most people chose to rent petite
townhouses from companies such as Toad Hall Cottages 01548
202 020, toadhallcottages.co.uk as hotels were a bit tired.
Travel information
Currency is the pound. Time zone is GMT. Flight to Salcombe
from Dubai is 11 hours. The cost to carbon-offset this trip is
$17.41. For more details, see climatecare.org
Getting there
Emirates flies to Exeter via Paris daily emirates.com
AVERAGE DAILY TEMPERATURES AND RAINFALL
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Min C 4 4 5 6 8 11 13 13 11 9 6 4
Max C 9 9 11 13 16 19 21 21 19 15 12 10
mm 4 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 4
78 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Clockwise from left:
aerial view of Salcombe;
families by the waterfront;
Overbeck’s gardens;
South Sands hotel;
East Portlemouth beach;
fresh crab; surfboards at
the beach; Salcombe
Dairy ice cream; view
from the South Sands
hotel; cream tea
However, in the past few years three have received the Farrow
& Ball treatment and emerged as stylish boltholes. South Sands
01548 845 900, southsands.com is a boutique option on a
sheltered beach with just 22 bedrooms. We recommend the J
Class room, which has twin claw-foot bathtubs in a bay window
and a large private balcony. On a hill overlooking the estuary,
Salcombe Harbour Hotel 01548 844 444, salcombe-harbour-
hotel.co.uk is the most luxurious option. Binoculars and gin and
tonic come as standard and many of the 50 rooms have vintage
touches such as art deco dressing tables. If you’re looking for a
little pampering, the spa has a beautiful pool and offers treatments
inspired by the sea, including hot shell massages and salt scrubs.
Nostalgically named Sunny Cliff Hotel & Apartments 01548 842
207, sunnycliff.co.uk is a collection of seven serviced suites and
studios. Good value and cheerful, they’re ideal for families.
Where to eat and drink The husband-and-wife team behind The
Crab Factory on Fish Quay have been producing hand-picked
crabmeat since 1995 and they have now opened an informal
restaurant where you can try the best of their catch. Eating
shellfish on The Crab Shed’s 01548 844 280, crabshed.com
waterfront terrace is the closest you can get to the sea without
getting wet. Continuing the shellfish theme, The Jetty 01548 844
444, salcombe-harbour-hotel.co.uk has an entire crustacean
menu and an elegant dining room that works well for an occasion.
The Winking Prawn 01548 842 326, winkingprawngroup.co.uk
Photos by Salcombe Tourist Information Centre; devonscenes.co.uk; Mark Parren Taylor
is a fantastic choice for a family meal. It specialises in enormous
sandwiches and is practically on North Sands beach, so little ones
can explore the rock pools while they wait. Make sure to finish with
a cannonball-sized scoop of Salcombe Dairy ice cream.
Time running out? Agatha Christie’s holiday home, Greenway, is
a lush haven just 19km from Salcombe. nationaltrust.org.uk
Trip tip The estuary tides are strong so be careful when swimming
and be sure to buy a tide timetable from a local newsagent.
Resources
Salcombe Tourist Information is the local tourist board’s online
resource and is packed full of ideas. salcombeinformation.co.uk
Further reading
Song of Salcombe by Virginia Murch (Upfront Publishing, $19)
is a fascinating history of the town told through the true story of a
local family.
 Tried&Tasted
COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS HOTELS
Four Seasons Beirut
T
here are few places you’ll be as primed to experience the
best of Beirut, as at the stylish Four Seasons Hotel Beirut.
Housed in a waterfront high-rise in the heart of downtown,
the luxe, modern hotel boasts an unbeatable location – footsteps
away from the designer shopping offerings of Beirut Souqs; across
the road from the bustling marina and promenade of Zaytouna Bay;
and a short drive from the CBD and nightlife districts.
Oozing understated luxury – not in an in-your-face manner, but
whispered rather – with fine furnishings, muted colour schemes,
and clean, contemporary lines, the hotel feels like a serene haven
the minute you walk in from the bustle of the city outside. Each of
the plush Pierre-Yves Rochon-designed rooms feature generous
terraces overlooking the ocean, touches of local art, and their
signature beds, which guarantee a good night’s sleep. For the
ultimate luxury, splash out on one of their spacious suites – with
separate sitting and dining area - which can compete with an
average urban apartment for size! The marble-clad bathrooms are
kitted out with premium French toiletries. These physical luxuries
are complemented by the typical Four Seasons service, of course,
which is unmistakably warm and helpful, yet discreet.
The hotel is home to a tranquil, earth-hued spa, which offers
signature therapies inspired by its location, such as the
Mediterranean Experience – a relaxing massage using fragrant
cedar wood oil and expert strokes.
Words by Sudeshna Ghosh
On the culinary front, Four Seasons Beirut really stands out - not
least for its daily breakfast. A lavish feast of Lebanese dips,
cheeses, freshly baked breads, and homemade jams and relishes,
alongside the usual international breakfast offerings of fruits, cereal,
plus eggs prepared to your liking and served to the table (their
shakshouka is not to be missed!)… it’s not without reason this is
known as one of the best breakfasts in the city.
The breakfast venue also doubles up (after a magical
transformation) as The Grill Room at dinner-time, one of the city’s
finest steakhouses, serving up perfectly cooked premium cuts of
Australian Wagyu and Black Angus, plus seafood specialties. It’s
a great idea to prefix a meal with an aperitif at the adjacent The
Bar, an atmospheric boudoir-like enclave with stunning art,
opulent décor, and an impressive beverage and cigar selection;
this is also the ideal place to have an informal meeting or catch up
with a friend.
The hotel’s piece de resistance however is The Roof, one of the
most stylish lounges in Beirut – and that’s no easy feat in a city
with pulsating nightlife such as this. The open-air 26th floor
poolside lounge (the highest in the city) offers a chic setting,
paired with an Asian-style tapas menu and stunning, panoramic
views of the glittering city, the mountains beyond, and the
Mediterranean at its feet.
Doubles from $510 www.fourseasons.com/beirut
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 81

Restaurants
This month, we enjoy Turkish delights in Bahrain and head to Dubai to savour elegant
Italian dishes, contemporary Emirati cuisine and Jason Atherton’s small plate craft
Köşebasi Bahrain
A
lthough this fine Turkish restaurant is
located at the entrance to Seef Mall
Muharraq you still retain the feeling of a
stand-alone dining experience. The deep red
hues and turquoise decor has distinct modern
Turkish feel with bright hanging glass lamps
and intimate alcoves giving the restaurant
more personal ambiance, which is perfectly
complemented by attentive and welcoming
service. A tray of small dishes showcasing the
extensive list of starters makes life so much
easier and yet more difficult when trying to
select an appetiser as everything looked so
tempting. Whilst we were waiting we enjoyed
a fresh carrot & orange juice and a refreshing
mint & lemon, both of which had just the right
balance of sweetness.
The home made lentil soup, with just a hint
82 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
Left to right: Vanitas dining;
Köşebasi mezze; Köşebasi
Bahrain restaurant
Vanitas Dubai
L
ocated in Palazzo Versace Dubai, Vanitas has introduced a sensational new menu
from Chef de Cuisine Andrea Gala, featuring authentic flavours combined with
elegance and a world-class dining experience. The menu features stunningly hand-
crafted dishes to take you on a culinary journey through Italy, from Grilled Octopus
served with Citrus Bavarese, to Seared Scallops Carpaccio, and pasta and risotto dishes.
For Secondi Piatti, choose from Monkfish with Purple Artichoke and Multicolour
Chard, or Seared Beef Sirloin cooked to perfection, served with Beetroot Steamed
Lettuce and Red Jus.
The charming and elegant renaissance-inspired interior of Vanitas offers the perfect
showcase for Chef Andrea’s refined and authentic Italian cusine.
For more information palazzoversace.ae +971 4556 8820
of smokiness was almost a meal in itself was Words by Nick Baines; Francesca Jackson; Mark Sansom
followed by a mezze of Pilaki - Borlotti beans
in a tomato sauce with virgin olive oil,
Mercimek Koftesi - a traditional vegetarian
Kebbi, accompanied by a bulgar and
pomegranate salad and hummus. The
delightful medley of starters was followed by
a mixed kebab of lamb, chicken and beef
served with (more-ish) crispy fries and bulgar
Photos by Food & Travel Arabia
wheat. To complete the meal we had the
most delicious Künefe, a crispy and creamy
pastry package filled with soft melted cheese
and syrup filling & Dondurmalı İrmik Helvası -
a hot semolina pudding with an ice-cream
filling, just like a Turkish baked Alaska; all
washed down with a full-flavoured, but not
bitter, Turkish tea.
To discover more visit www.kosebasi.com
 Tried&Tasted
Left to right: Aseelah fennel
orange salad; restaurant interior;
chicken roulade. Below: Marina EAT
Social; potato gnocchi

s gourmet Something new

Global

Marina Social Dubai Aseelah Dubai

A
Dubai has been a retirement home for chefs in
brand new Emirati restaurant in the heart of old Dubai, Aseelah
recent years: put your name to a spangly new
at the Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek, is the long-awaited
hotel restaurant, don the slippers, spark the
realisation of veteran Dubai chef Uwe Micheel’s dreams. Paying
pipe, have the dog fetch the paper and watch
homage to the region’s heritage, the modern, elegant space is done
the royalties roll in as you don’t have to lift so
up in neutral sand-inspired colours, and natural elements – like a jute-
much as a milk pan. Though when it comes to
draped ‘ghaf tree’ in the room. The menu is divided into two sections,
applying Jason Atherton’s name and Social
featuring both traditional classics (such as Lamb thareed, and Fish
brand to a restaurant, it would never be that
samak) as well as modern creations that reimagine local flavours with
easy. He insists on installing his trusted London
European cooking and presentation techniques, to great effect. Think:
lieutenants and spot-checks nearly as frequently
Pan roasted quail salad with pistachio, pumpkin puree, glazed beetroot
as he does his restaurants in town.
and wild rocket; Seafood risotto with Arabic spices; and camel meat
At Marina Social, his touch really shows. It’s
sliders. The dessert menu is similarly experimental, with dishes like
already one of the best restaurants in the city
Pumpkin mille feuille on offer, alongside traditional favourites such as
and is rightly winning plaudits from all who try it.
Luqaimat.
With the same small-plate ethos as his other
With an Arabian-inspired cocktail menu – it is the only licensed
sites, holla ‘feed me’ to the waiting team and
Emirati venue in the UAE - and separate lounge area with sheesha,
they’ll bring a selection of well-curated dishes.
plus a fresh bakery and pastry counter in the making, this unique
Make sure they send over goat’s cheese churros
dining destination is definitely worth a visit.
with truffle honey, puffed squid and rice crackers
To find out more visit diningdubaicreek.com
and beef tartare with horseradish cream. Be
sure to save room for main: the smoked lobster
comes served in a treasure chest; one of the
finest pieces of restaurant theatre you’ll find.
Whoever said Dubai was style over substance
clearly hasn’t been here. MS. 00 971 4446 6664,
marinasocialdubai.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 83

 Clockwise from
left: lounge by
the dark blue
pool at FInca
Cortesin; the
central courtyard;
there are three

FINCA CORTESIN
restaurants to
MARBELLA choose from

Set in the undulating Andalucian countryside between Marbella
and Cádiz, this charming luxury estate has style in spades.
Exquisitely marrying Moorish, Grecian and 19th-century Asian
design, the sprawling property delights at every turn. Green
baize adorns the walls, Japanese silks hang alongside classical
busts, rich kilim-covered furniture sits on farmhouse-style tiled
floors, and patterned wallpapers are framed by rustic, antique
doors. Modern accents finish the eclectic look – think glass
specimen domes, an abundance of greenery and driftwood
mirrors. It really shouldn’t work but it does.
Guest rooms are in the desert-pink cloister, its central
building, is a memorable snapshot of any stay here.
The food offering is excellent, whether you opt for the relaxed El
Jardín De Lutz with its quirky decor and deliciously fresh regional
plates, Michelin-starred Kabuki Raw, which serves up authentic
Japanese, or the classic Italian Don Giavanni.
Be sure to spend your lunchtimes poolside at the Beach Club,
a ten-minute drive away, where there’s a sparkling infinity pool, or
at Pool 35 after whiling away the morning in the Romanesque-
style spa. For sundowners, the hotel’s Blue Bar will see you in
good stead, with the dulcet tones of local musicians playing from
the terrace making for a perfect backdrop. BG. Doubles from

Places
courtyard laden with strelizia (birds of paradise) and palms. $499, 00 34 952 937 800, fincacortesin.com
Preempting your every need, the suites and villas are bedecked
with comfortable furnishings and boast sizeable marble and
black granite showers with Penhaligon’s products. Terraces offer
knockout views across the vast, inky blue-green pool, the hotel’s
world-famous golf course and the glistening ocean beyond. This month, we enjoy eclectic luxury & style in
Within the grounds, 1,000-year-old olive trees stand proudly
against manicured gardens and the heady, heavenly scent of
tour of Paris, a weekend of fine art in London and
jasmine, which crawls prettily along the length of the main

ME Ibiza
One of Ibiza’s best hotels draws a mature crowd who want to airport are in white Range Rovers and you’ll find yourself being
Words by Blossom Green; Sudeshna Ghosh;

enjoy Ibiza’s glitz and glamour without the 5am bedtime. From addressed by name by stunning staff throughout your stay. An
its east coast location, in a secluded bay between the resorts ‘aura manager’ acts as a personal concierge, whether it’s a
of Santa Eulalia and Es Canar, it offers direct yacht access for day on neighbouring island Formentera, dinners at restaurants
Mark Sansom; Francesca Jackson

those who are lucky enough and fantastic people-watching for
those who aren’t. It’s a hotel that oozes genuine class.
Cool details and a blue and white palette capture Ibiza’s
audacious spirit in a stylish manner, while thoughtful bathroom
extras include eye masks, facial kits and French manicure sets,
along with cutting-edge sound systems. Book a Bali bed by
the pool and soak up the island’s refined bohemianism.
Service is a real strong point of all the hotels in the ME
group but it’s particularly excellent here. Transfers from the
that claim to be fully booked or fast-track club entry.
Spanish-inspired plates such as spaghetti with clams taste
even better when enjoyed by the pool at the Salt & Sea
restaurant but the rooftop cocktail bar is the real highlight. By
day, enjoy a massage or facial with panoramic views courtesy
of SkinC. After dark, enjoy tuna tartare in the restaurant and
the atmosphere as ex-clubbers sip watermelon martinis and
flutter to gentle lounge music provided by the resident DJ.
MS. Doubles from $515, 00 34 971 330 051, melia.com

110 FOOD & TRAVEL

 Tried&Tasted
SLEEP

‘ROVE’ING EYE DUBAI

Dubai’s newest hotel, the Rove Downtown Dubai, is a breath of fresh air in
the region’s hospitality market with its modern, trendy, value-for-money
offering. The hip, art-infused hotel fuses hi-tech facilities such as seamless
Wi-Fi and in-room smart TVs, with cultural inspirations that emphatically
reinforce its Dubai DNA. There’s art everywhere, from the lobby area to
individual rooms, and even the funky, creative meeting areas - all of it
curated from local artists. The design is suitably quirky, with exposed
ceilings in the lobby, and the ‘wall of curiosities’ – a collection of random
bric a brac that bring to life the hotel’s Zabeel home.
Aimed at independent millennial travellers, the focus is on keeping things
simple and cost-effective – from the self-service check-in to the 24-hour
supermarket in the lobby. As far as F&B offerings go, The Daily is their take Gourmet bolthole
on a deli, with fresh, fast chalkboard-menu dishes from highly creative MANDARIN ORIENTAL PARIS
executive chef Spencer Lee Black, plus snacks and nibbles, on offer in a Visit the Mandarin Oriental, Paris this summer and enjoy the
bright, sunlit space. SG Paris by Marx package and visit a selection of twelve artisan

to stay
Marbella, hip art-infused chic in Dubai, a gourmet
get to hang out with the beautiful people in Ibiza luxury
and speciality retailers recommended by the hotel’s Michelin
starred chef Thierry Marx.
A native Parisian, Thierry Marx’s recommendations
include French and Japanese delicatessens, a chocolatier,
an award-winning charcutier, teahouse, historical kitchen
utensils shop, bakery, and an art gallery in St-Germain-des-
Prés, amongst many other culinary related experiences.
The culmination of this gastronomic Parisian adventure, is
a gourmet dinner at two Michelin-starred Sur Mesure par
Thierry Marx.
The Paris by Marx package includes: Luxurious
accommodation for a minimum one night stay at Mandarin
Oriental, Paris; breakfast at Camélia or in-room; a nine-
course dinner at Sur Mesure par Thierry Marx (drinks not
included); a VIP welcome in the twelve outlets selected by
Thierry Marx. Prices start from $1,500 per night, based on
two people sharing. www.mandarinoriental.com

BROWN’S HOTEL LONDON

The third annual Brown’s London Art Weekend is taking place in Mayfair
and St. James’s from July 1st to 3rd, 2016. Experience the quality and
diversity of this art market destination with free talks, walks, and over
60 exhibitions to see, Brown’s London Art Weekend offers a unique
opportunity for art lovers to explore the capital’s greatest private galleries.
Brown’s Hotel, Mayfair London +44 20 7493 6020
www.roccofortehotels.com
 Carême column

Gary Rhodes
In his inaugural column for Food and Travel
Arabia Michelin starred chef, restaurateur, and
ambassador of British cuisine Gary Rhodes OBE
shares his passion for food when he recently
visited Lyon, the home of French Gastronomy.

W
hen thinking about a topic for my first column for Food &
Travel Arabia, I couldn’t help but focus on a recent holiday
I went on to Lyon, with my wife Jenny and two dear
friends - as it was literally one of the most memorable experiences
I’ve ever had. It was my right-hand man Wayne Tapsfield’s 50th
birthday, and together with his wife and mine, we decided – this is
the time to go to Lyon.
I’d never been there before, and as a chef, I’d always wanted to
go, of course. Both of us were like excited schoolboys on this trip!
We were staying in the old town, which was just beautiful –
incredible architecture, history, and the smell of food everywhere.
We walked everywhere on the cobblestone streets, and it was just
a short walk across the river to the newer part of town. While it
wasn’t anywhere near as modern and shiny as Dubai, I did draw
parallels between the cities - just the way you cross the creek here
and enter the old part of Dubai. I remember thinking how different it
was, the first time I went to the Deira side…
The highlight of our trip was a meal at Paul Bocuse, which we’d
already booked, but there were several other restaurants we went
to that were just unforgettable. There was a little place, about 20
minutes from town, called Le Comptoir du Vin, run by an old man.
It’s tiny, with just 14 seats; he’s got one little hatch with one stove;
there’s no menu, just four dishes on the blackboard you choose
from. We had braised veal, trotters, and a steaming bowl of
mussels, plus bread and Lyonnaise potatoes – the food was basic
and simple but had the best flavours.
Just around the corner there was this lively bar, with a younger
crowd, and it showed off the personality of the city, I really loved the
extremes I saw here.
The next day, on our way to Les Enfants Terrible, a restaurant I
was looking forward to trying, we saw another tiny little joint with
beautiful seafood on offer. We stopped there on the spur of the
moment, and just ordered some fresh oysters and langoustines
(with lemon, red wine vinegar and shallots) - it was just amazing. We
did go on to Les Enfants Terrible for our meal as well, where I had
some pan-fried veal with a classical Grenobloise garnish - again a
really simple dish, but it was so lively in flavour.
I have to say, if you want to eat really good French food,
there’s no place like Lyon. And where better to see this than
at three Michelin-star restaurant Paul Bocuse! It’s located on the
outskirts of Lyon, and opens at 8pm – but when we got there a few
minutes before 8, people were just queued up outside waiting. It’s
a beautiful building, so we got some nice photos while waiting as
well. I’d been worried that, as I’d been looking forward to it
so much, in the end, the experience might be deflating.
But no, it souffléd’!
You almost feel like you’re walking into a culinary museum…
there’s so much history, and the place is full of endless stories, that
I felt very privileged to be dining there.
We had the nine-course tasting menu; which included some of
his most famous dishes - including his famed truffle soup; Bresse
chicken cooked in a bladder à la Mère Fillioux; filet of sole ‘à la
Fernand Point’; pan-cooked scallop of foie gras with passion fruit
sauce. Without doubt, it was one of the greatest culinary
experiences in my life. And I really don’t think that there’s any
other restaurant that will hold its three Michelin stars for 50 years as
this has done. (Well, maybe the Roux brothers are getting there…)
Paul Bocuse is an inescapable part of Lyon’s soul. If we needed
any further reminding, there is a huge indoor market in Lyon named
after him, with a giant mural of his face painted on a building across
the road from it. Going into that market was a chef’s dream, without
a doubt. There’s every kind of ingredient imaginable.
We took a pit-stop at this truffle place, one of a group of little
eateries at the back specialising in everything from foie gras to
desserts, where I sampled a foie gras ravioli with finely grated
Périgord truffle running through it. It was such an ordinary looking
dish, but it tasted divine. My wife’s ravioli had a cream sauce, while
mine had a chicken jus, and we couldn’t stop arguing over whose
was better. We decided to agree that Wayne’s truffle salad with
duck confit was the winner! There were also endless varieties of
oysters, mussels; there were charcuterie items… just a sensational
array of fresh, fantastic produce.
Capping off our foodie explorations was a meal at Michelin star
restaurant L’Auberge de l’île Barbe, located on a little island in the
river. Another incredible operation, where one of the dishes I can
still taste in my mouth is a pike mousse roulade with caramelised
nuggets of frogs legs. It was one of those meals where I was so
excited, I had to put my spoon down, just to take it all in!
It was an unforgettable trip of good food, good friends and good
memories. I have to say to any chef, go to Lyon. Just as
I’d say, come to Dubai. To experience something you never have
before, to experience the magic.

86 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA

 Opposite: L’Auberge
Lyon town photo by: Marie Perrin

du Pont de Collonges’
grand dining room.
This page, top to
bottom: mural of Paul
Bocuse; soupe aux
truffes; Auberge de
L’lle dining; Lyon old
town; Auberge de L’lle
exterior; Les Enfants
Terrible

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 87

 THE
COLLECTION
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml

In season – Peaches and nectarines

pages 22-27

Poached peaches dissolve the sugar. Increase the

Tuna and nectarine
salad with peach
liqueur dressing
SERVES 4
4 ripe nectarines
2tsp olive oil
1½tsp sea salt
2tsp aleppo pepper flakes (from
a Middle Eastern supermarket)
400g-425g yellowfin tuna
steaks, cut in 2 lengths
For the dressing
2tbsp peach schnapps
pinch of sugar
2tbsp olive oil
3tbsp pine nuts, toasted
buckler leaf sorrel leaves,
ivy-leaved toadflax leaves and
flowers, oregano, savory or
thyme flowers, to serve
Slice each nectarine into 10-12
wedges, depending on size, and
toss them in 1 teaspoon of the
olive oil. Mix the salt and aleppo
pepper flakes and dust on to a
plate. Press the tuna into this
mixture to coat evenly and spoon
over the rest of the oil on both
sides. Heat a griddle pan and
cook the tuna for 1½ minutes
per side. Place on a plate to rest.
Clean out the pan and reheat.
Griddle the nectarine wedges for
about 1 minute per side or until
nicely charred.
Slice the tuna into 2½cm
pieces and arrange on plates with
the nectarines. When ready to
eat, scatter over the green leaves
and flowers and spoon over the
dressing. Serve warm or cold.
SERVES 4 heat and add the peeled peach
halves and cover with a circle of
This basic recipe for poaching greaseproof paper and a lid and
peaches is great for a simple simmer for about 5 minutes.
dessert to serve with ice cream, Remove the peaches with a
Cornish clotted cream or the slotted spoon and carefully put in
peach Melba recipe (right). a bowl. Quickly cool the liquid then
add back to the peaches. Store in
3-4 yellow or white-fleshed the fridge for up to 3 days.
peaches
1 x 375ml bottle Muscat de
Saint Jean de Minervois
250ml cold water
150g caster sugar
1 vanilla pod, split
Cut a shallow cross in the stalk
end of the peaches and blanch in
boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain
and soak in cold water. Cut in half
then twist the halves in opposite
directions, removing the stones
as you go, then slip off the skins.
Meanwhile, put the wine, 250ml
water, sugar and vanilla pod in a
large saucepan over a low heat to

88 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Peach Melba
SERVES 6
This will make more than 6 scoops
of ice cream so store what’s left
in the freezer to serve another day
with a redcurrant and raspberry
compote. This uses freeze-dried
raspberries, available at Whole
Foods Market, Waitrose and
sous-chef.co.uk
For the ice cream
300ml double cream
100g white vanilla-flavoured
chocolate, broken into
small pieces
700g ripe peaches
100g caster sugar
juice of 1 lemon
2tbsp peach schnapps
For the raspberry brittle
125g caster sugar
1tsp freeze-dried raspberries,
crushed a little more
125g fresh raspberries
2tsp icing sugar
6 poached peach halves
(see left)
To make the ice cream, heat
the cream in a small pan over a
medium heat and when bubbles
begin to appear around the
edges, turn off the heat and add
the broken chocolate. Stir well to
melt and transfer to a small
bowl to cool.
Cut a cross in the base of each
peach and put in a large bowl.
Pour over enough boiling water
to cover and leave for 6 minutes.
Strain through a colander and put
into cold water. The skins can then
be removed easily.
Put the sugar, lemon juice
and 2 tablespoons of water into
a medium pan over a low heat
to dissolve the sugar. When the
mixture becomes a clear syrup,
slice the peaches from their
stones, add to the syrup and
gently simmer for 9 minutes until
a froth forms. Tip them into a cold
bowl and place in a larger bowl of
cold water for about 10 minutes
to help them cool down quickly
so they don’t discolour. Put in a
blender and process to a purée
in two batches. Add the peach
schnapps and chocolate and
cream mixture to the purée. Churn
in an ice cream machine following
manufacturer’s instructions and
then transfer to a freezer-proof
container. Cover and freeze for a
minimum of 6 hours.
To make the brittle, line a baking
tray with foil. Put the sugar in a
medium pan with 5 tablespoons
of boiling water and let it dissolve.
Bring to a gentle boil until it turns a
pale caramel colour. Scatter in the
dried raspberry pieces and swirl to
distribute them evenly. Pour on to
the baking tray and tip the sheet
so that it covers evenly and thinly.
Leave to cool completely before
breaking into shards.
Roughly crush the raspberries
and icing sugar together with a
fork and chill until needed.
If the ice cream is very hard,
take off the lid and put in the
fridge for about 10 minutes until
it scoops easily. Scoop on to
serving plates and arrange a
poached peach half next to it
and spoon over some crushed
raspberry mixture and top with a
few shards of brittle.
RECIPES
Peach and rosewater ready to use.
galettes Preheat the oven to 220C/
MAKES 6-8 425F/Gas 7. Cut each peach
into 8 wedges. Spoon about 2
Make a 6.5cm cardboard circle to teaspoons of frangipane on to the
use as a guide to create perfect inner circle of each piece of pastry
pastry galettes. Bear in mind that and add 4 peach slices leaning
when these galettes are cold the against each other. Dust the
pastry looses its golden colour. tops with a little icing sugar and
cook until the pastry is risen and
50g butter, softened at room golden, about 20-25 minutes.
temperature Serve warm or cold dusted
65g caster sugar with a little more icing sugar and
1tbsp rosewater whipped cream.
1 egg
50g ground almonds
2tsp plain flour
500g ready-made puff pastry
4 peaches
icing sugar, sifted for dusting
To make the frangipane, place the
softened butter in a bowl and add
the sugar and rosewater. With a
wooden spoon, make a smooth
paste and add the egg. Whisk
vigorously to remove any lumps
then stir in the ground almonds
and flour until smooth. Place in the
fridge to chill.
Roll out the puff pastry on a
clean work surface, cut around the
cardboard template then press a
5.5cm pastry cutter into the pastry
(not quite all the way through).
Put them on a large baking tray
and place in the fridge to chill until
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 89
 RECIPES
Nectarine flatbread with
coconut fudge drizzle and
sweet labneh
SERVES 4
For the sweet labneh
300ml natural yoghurt
1tbsp icing sugar
1tbsp peach schnapps
For the flatbread
125g plain flour
1½tsp dry yeast
½tsp caster sugar
½tsp salt
15g coconut oil, plus a little
for brushing
3 ripe nectarines, cut into
wedges
For the coconut caramel
125g caster sugar
75ml peach schnapps
15g coconut oil
Put the yoghurt in a fine muslin-
lined sieve set over a bowl to
catch the liquid and place in the
fridge overnight. Put the solids in
a bowl and mix in the icing sugar
and peach schnapps.
Put the flour, yeast, sugar
and the salt in a bowl and stir
to combine. Put the coconut oil
in a measuring jug and pour in
enough boiling water to melt it.
Add enough cold water to bring
up to 100ml then add to the
90 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
flour mixture and bring the dough
together. Make sure the sides of
the bowl are clean before tipping
on to a surface and knead for
about 3 minutes until smooth and
elastic. Put back in the bowl and
cover with cling film and leave
to prove in a warmish place for
around 45 minutes to 1 hour, until
it has doubled in size.
Tip the dough on to a surface
and knead for a minute. Press
on to a baking sheet in a rough
16x24cm rectangle. Cut the
nectarines into eight wedges (no
need to peel) and arrange on top
of the dough, some skin side up
and others cut side up, then cover
with a clean cloth. Leave to prove
again in a draft-free place for
about 1 hour until the dough has
puffed up around the fruit.
Halfway through the proving
process, preheat the oven to
220C/425F/Gas 7. Once doubled
in size, brush the dough between
the nectarines with some coconut
oil. Bake for 20-30 minutes.
For the coconut fudge drizzle,
put the sugar and 100ml water
in a medium pan. Gently dissolve
the sugar then increase the heat
and boil the sugar to a golden
caramel. Remove from the heat,
add the schnapps and coconut oil
and swirl to melt. Drizzle over the
flatbread and serve with the
sweet labneh.
Full of flavour
Pages 34-39
Chicory & pear salad In a bowl, whisk together all the
with cambozola yogurt ingredients for the salad dressing
dressing and season well with salt and
SERVES 2 pepper.
Finely slice the chicory and
For the salad radicchio on the diagonal and
1 head of Belgium chicory toss into a bowl. Add the pears,
1 head of radicchio or red orange and cheese, and lightly
Belgian chicory
 mix. Drizzle over the dressing and
2 ripe Williams pears, peeled, mix well.
cored and finely sliced Serve topped with the toasted
1 small orange, peeled, pecans. It’s as easy as that.
segmented and roughly
chopped

150g cambozola cheese, cut
into 2cm pieces, or a semi- soft
light blue-veined cheese
50g lightly toasted pecans,
roughly chopped
For the dressing

100g Greek yogurt

2tbsps sherry vinegar
1tsp GF Dijon mustard
2tbsps extra virgin olive oil

salt and ground black pepper
 RECIPES

Apple cheesecake cool, then add the lime juice and Easy sweet & sour in a wok, add the meatballs and
SERVES 8-10 zest and stir in well. meatballs with ginger & cook gently for 8–10 minutes,
Peel and core the apples. lime turning occasionally to get a
Butter, for greasing
 Place in a pan with the sugar SERVES 4 nice glaze all over. Once cooked
2 medium Bramley or other and Calvados, and cook until you remove from the pan and keep
cooking apples
 have a thick pulp – the thicker the For the meatballs warm. Add the remaining oil to the
100g caster or granulated sugar
 better. Leave to cool. 500g veal or beef shoulder pan. Add the carrot, pak choi and
100ml Calvados 
 Meanwhile, in a bowl mix mince spinach, and wilt for 2–3 minutes,
200g GF Shortbread, crushed together the crushed shortbread 2 garlic cloves, crushed then add the honey, tamari and
with a rolling pin
 and melted chocolate, then lightly 1 small onion, very finely diced lime juice and stir through. Season
75g dark GF chocolate, melted press the mixture into the base of Zest and juice of 1 large lime with pepper.
400g tin condensed milk
 the tin to make an even layer. Chill 225g tin water chestnuts, Add the meatballs to the pan,
500g mascarpone cheese for 20 minutes. drained and very finely chopped stir through to heat, then serve
Juice of 3 large lemons (about Use an electric whisk to beat 1 heaped tablespoon very finely
100ml)
 the condensed milk with the chopped fresh ginger
Icing sugar, to dust whipped mascarpone until the mixture is 1tbsp GF tamari sauce
cream, to serve smooth. Add the lemon juice and 1tbsp GF mayonnaise
combine thoroughly. 2tsps corn flour
For the apple and lime syrup Spread half the mascarpone ¼tsp dried chilli flakes
topping mixture onto the biscuit base.
1 medium Bramley or other Spoon about half the stewed For the sweet and sour vegetables
cooking apple, peeled and finely apples over the top, leaving a 3cm 3tbsps vegetable oil
chopped gap around the edge. Top with the 1 medium carrot, peeled and
225g caster or granulated sugar remaining mascarpone mixture, sliced into very thin strips
juice and finely grated zest of 3 covering the edges to seal in the 2 pak choi, sliced diagonally
large limes apple stew. Chill for 4–8 hours or 50g baby spinach leaves
preferably overnight. 1tbsp clear honey
Grease a 20cm spring-form cake Once chilled, place the tin on 2tbsps GF tamari sauce
tin and line the base with baking a plate and spoon the rest of the Juice of 1 small lime
parchment. apple stew over the centre of the Ground black pepper
To make the sauce, place the cheesecake, carefully spreading
apple and sugar in a pan with it out but keeping a 3cm gap In a big bowl, mix together all the
250ml of cold water and cook around the edge. ingredients for the meatballs really
gently until you have a soft, thin Dust heavily with icing sugar well.
purée. Blitz in a blender for a good and serve in wedges with the Roll into balls the size of a large
5 minutes until you have a velvety, sauce and thickly whipped cream coin, then chill really well.
smooth sauce. Pass through a on the side. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil
fine sieve into a bowl and leave to

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 91

 RECIPES

Barbecued whole fish with pepper and lime juice, then take o Chickpea & cumin to work).
avocado & banana the heat. pancakes with tomatoes, Heat the remaining 2
SERVES 4 Brush both the fish and the red onion & coriander tablespoons of oil in a non-stick
bars of the barbecue or the griddle MAKES 8 SMALL PANCAKES frying pan over a medium heat.
2 large ripe avocados
 with oil, then sprinkle with salt Spoon a ladleful of batter into the
4tbsps clear honey
 and pepper. Stuff the fish with the 2 ripe plum tomatoes
 pan and cook for 2–3 minutes.
1 medium ripe banana, cut into coriander, rosemary and spring 1 small red onion, very finely Carefully flip over and cook for
1cm slices
salt and ground black onions and cook it for 5–6 minutes chopped
 a further 2 minutes to just set.
pepper
 on each side. Take o the heat and 1–2 pinches of dried red chilli Repeat to make eight
small
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped let cool slightly, then flake the flesh flakes
 pancakes.
4tbsps chopped parsley juice of into a bowl. 1tsp very finely chopped fresh Serve warm with a spoonful
3 large limes
 Fill the halved avocados with ginger
a pinch of GF garam of mango chutney and a dollop
1kg whole fish such as bass, the banana mixture and top with masala, plus extra to garnish
 of yogurt. Garnish with a few
bream or John dory, scaled, large flakes of the barbecued sh. ½ teaspoon ground cumin
 coriander leaves and a sprinkling
gutted and fins removed Sprinkle with salt, pepper and a 4tbsps olive oil
 of gluten-free garam masala.
Olive oil little olive oil, and serve with the A pinch of xanthan gum

2 sprigs of coriander
 lime or lemon slices. ½tsp GF baking powder
2 sprigs of rosemary
 Tip: The golden rule when 150g GF gram flour

2–3 spring onions
 barbecuing the fish is to make 2tbsps chopped fresh coriander,
4 slices of fresh lime or lemon sure the bars and fish are well plus a few leaves to garnish

oiled and then sprinkled with a little Salt and ground black pepper
Preheat the barbecue or heat a salt and pepper. This stops the 4tbsps GF spicy mango chutney

griddle. fish sticking to the bars. 4tbsps thick yogurt
Cut the avocados in half and
remove the stones. Cut a small Put the tomatoes, onion, chilli
sliver o the bottom of each half flakes, ginger, garam masala,
so that they sit nice and securely. cumin and 2 tablespoons of the
Score the flesh width-ways and oil into a liquidizer and blitz to a
lengthways, but don’t cut all the thick paste.
way to the skin. In a small bowl, mix together
Heat the honey in a pan over the xanthan gum, baking powder
a low heat, being careful not to and our, then add the coriander
burn it, and sauté the banana in and season with salt and pepper.
the honey with a little salt until Pour in the spicy tomato paste
nicely coloured and slightly soft. and mix well (the mixture will
Add the garlic, parsley, salt and tighten slightly as the gum starts

92 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Hampering situation
Pages 40-45
Crab tart with lemony
asparagus salad
SERVES 4
You can buy fresh crabmeat
from fishmongers or online (sold
frozen). Alternatively, buy freshly
cooked crab and pick out all the
meat yourself.
Red hot chilli popcorn then. The trick is to listen, and
SERVES 4 - 6 when the popping slows right 280g ready-made shortcrust
down (after about 8–10 minutes), pastry
2tbsps olive oil
 remove the pan from the heat. 250g fresh white crabmeat
1 level tbsp dried chilli with Sprinkle over the sugar, paprika, 3 egg yolks
seeds
 coriander and a little salt, stir well 200ml double cream
250g popping corn
 and serve. 1tbsp fresh tarragon, chopped
1tbsp brown sugar
 pinch cayenne pepper
2tsps smoked paprika 75g freshly grated Comté
2tbsps roughly chopped fresh cheese (or Gruyère)
coriander 250g asparagus spears,
Salt trimmed and halved
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Heat the oil in a heavy-based juice ½ lemon
saucepan over a medium heat, ½tsp Dijon mustard
taking care not to burn it. Add the small handful rocket leaves
chilli and cook for 10 seconds, few fresh tarragon leaves
then add the corn and stir well. salt and pepper
Cover the pan and leave to pop,
shaking the pan every now and Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/
Gas 6. Press the pastry into a
12 x 35cm rectangular tart tin, trim
excess and prick the base with
a fork. Chill for 20 minutes, then
RECIPES
fill with baking paper and beans
and bake for 12 minutes. Remove
paper and beans and cook for
10-12 minutes until the pastry is
crisp and golden. Set aside.
Pick through the crabmeat and
discard any cartilage. Beat the egg
yolks, cream, tarragon, cayenne
and salt and pepper together
until smooth. Stir in the crabmeat
and three-quarters of the cheese.
Spoon into the pastry case and
bake for 30 minutes, until golden
and firm. Let cool.
Blanch the asparagus in a pan
of lightly salted boiling water for 2
minutes. Drain, refresh under cold
water and pat dry. Set aside.
Whisk together the oil, lemon
juice, mustard, salt and pepper.
Arrange the tart on a board and
scatter over the asparagus, rocket
and tarragon. Drizzle over the
dressing and serve in slices.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 93
 RECIPES
Beef, pickled red
onion, horseradish and
watercress sandwich
SERVES 4
You can find good-quality roast
beef in many delis and specialist
food stores but be sure to ask
to have the beef sliced for you
and don’t be tempted to opt for
the ready-sliced products as they
don’t have the flavour or texture of
freshly sliced, rare beef.
For the soda bread
350g plain wholemeal flour, plus
extra to sprinkle
50g parmesan, freshly grated
2tbsp fresh chives, chopped
1tsp bicarbonate of soda
1¼tsp salt
1tsp sugar
300ml buttermilk
For the pickled red onion
125ml water
3tbsp white wine vinegar
2tbsp caster sugar
2tsp salt
1 small red onion, very thinly
sliced
For the horseradish cream
125g crème fraîche
1tbsp horseradish, freshly
grated
94 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
salt and pepper
To serve
butter (optional)
250g rare roast beef
handful watercress leaves
Preheat the oven to 230C/440F/
Gas 8 and oil a baking tray. Mix
together the flour, parmesan,
chives, bicarbonate of soda, salt
and sugar in a bowl. Make a
well in the centre and gradually
stir in the buttermilk to make a
soft dough.
Knead on a lightly floured
surface for 2-3 minutes until
smooth and then shape the dough
into a flattish rectangle about
20cm long. Place on the tray and
with a sharp knife cut a slash
down the middle of the dough.
Bake for 15 minutes then
reduce the temperature to 200C/
400F/Gas 6 and bake for a
further 25 minutes until the loaf is
golden and sounds hollow when
tapped underneath. Leave to cool
completely on a wire rack.
Store until required.
To make the pickled red onion,
place 125ml water in a small
saucepan and stir in the vinegar,
sugar and salt. Bring to the boil,
stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Place the red onions in a bowl and
pour over the hot liquid and leave
to cool completely. Drain the red
onions and reserve.
Combine the crème fraîche with
the horseradish and season to
taste. Set aside and chill.
To serve, cut the bread into
slices and butter each slice (if
desired) and sandwich with the
beef, onions, horseradish cream
and watercress leaves. Serve as
soon as possible.
Pint of prawns with
chipotle aïoli and lime salt
SERVES 4
Always cover the surface of aïoli
with cling film or baking parchment
to prevent a skin forming. Keep
refrigerated for up to 3 days.
750g large cooked prawns,
shells on
2 limes
1tbsp sea salt
For the aïoli
2 egg yolks
1 small garlic clove, crushed
juice 1 lime
1tsp chipotle powder
½tsp smoked paprika
100ml extra virgin olive oil
100ml grapeseed oil
salt
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/
Gas 4. Wash and dry the prawns
and chill until required.
To make the salt, finely grate
the zest of the limes and combine
with the sea salt. Place in a
small baking tin and bake for 2-3
minutes or until the lime zest is
dry but not browned. Cool and
transfer to a container.
To make the aïoli, place the
egg yolks in a food processor and
add the garlic, lime juice, chipotle
powder, paprika and a little salt
(you don’t need much). With the
blade running, gradually blend in
the oils until the mixture is thick
and glossy. Add a little hot water
if it’s too thick. Seal in a container
and chill until required.
To serve, shell the prawns,
dunk into the aïoli and dust with
lime salt.
Pea falafels with
pomegranate and tomato
fattoush
SERVES 4
For the pea falafel
100g couscous
150g fresh podded peas (or
frozen peas)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1tsp ground cumin
½ bunch fresh coriander
½ bunch mint
1tbsp plain flour
1tbsp tahini
1tbsp lemon juice
salt and pepper
For the fattoush
1 large pomegranate
2tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1tbsp lemon juice
2tsp clear honey
2 large tomatoes, seeded
½ cucumber, diced
½ red onion, diced
½ bunch fresh coriander
½ bunch mint
vegetable oil, for cooking
yoghurt, to serve
Soak the couscous in 100ml of
just boiled water until softened
then let cool. Blanch the peas
in lightly salted, boiling water for
1 minute until just tender. Drain,
refresh under cold water and
drain again. Dry well.
Place the couscous, peas,
garlic, cumin, herbs, flour, tahini,
lemon juice and a little salt and
pepper in a food processor and
purée until smooth. Shape the
mixture into 24 balls roughly
the size of walnuts. Heat 5cm
vegetable oil in an old saucepan
until it reaches 180C on a sugar
thermometer and deep-fry the
falafels for 3 minutes each side
until browned. Cool on kitchen
towel and chill until required.
To make the fattoush, tap the
pomegranate on a hard surface
several times to help release the
seeds inside. Break open over a
bowl lined with a sieve to catch
all the juices and set seeds aside.
Combine the juice with the olive
oil, lemon juice, honey and season
to taste. Set aside.
Prepare the remaining the
ingredients. Finely dice the
tomatoes, cucumber and onion.
Combine in a bowl and stir in the
pomegranate seeds, herbs and
dressing. Stir well and keep
chilled until required.
Tip: these falafel keep well
for 2-3 days stored in an airtight
container in the fridge.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 95
 RECIPES
Meringues with rosewater
raspberries and white
chocolate cream
MAKES 6
Meringues keep really well and
can be made several days ahead.
Simply store cooled meringues in
a plastic container.
For the meringues
3 egg whites
200g caster sugar
300g fresh raspberries
1tbsp rosewater
For the white chocolate cream
125ml milk
125ml double cream
2 egg yolks
2tsp cornflour
1tbsp caster sugar
100g white chocolate, chopped
Preheat the oven to 130C/260F/
Gas ½ and line a large baking tray
with baking parchment.
Whisk egg whites until firm then
96 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
gradually whisk in 175g of the
sugar until the mixture is thick and
really glossy. Spoon 6 mounds on
to the prepared tray, keeping them
as far apart as possible. Bake for
1 hour until set and lightly golden.
Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
Reserving 50g raspberries
to serve, blitz the rest with the
remaining sugar and rosewater
until smooth and store in the
fridge until required.
To make the white chocolate
cream, heat the milk and cream
in a small pan until almost boiling.
Beat together the egg yolks, sugar
and cornflour until smooth then stir
in the hot milk. Return to the pan
and stir gently over a low heat until
the mixture boils. Simmer for 2
minutes while stirring, then remove
from the heat. Stir in the chocolate
until melted, cover the surface with
cling film and chill.
To serve, divide the meringues
between bowls with the raspberry
sauce, chocolate cream and
Good cook, great food
Pages 50-53
Beef short ribs Add onions, leek & garlic.
SERVES 2 Cook, stirring constantly, for a few
minutes.
800g beef short ribs, cut into Add red grape, chicken stock
5cm chunks & sugar. Simmer; cover, over low
1tbsp salt heat for 55-60 minutes.
1tsp pepper Remove from heat and serve
315g onions, sliced lengthways
120g leaks, coarsely chopped
4-5 cloves of garlic
1½ cups of red grape
½ cup of chicken stock
1tbsp sugar
Sprinkle the beef with salt and
pepper. Pan-fry the beef in a
heavy saucepan on a high heat
until turns golden-brown (no oil
needed: the beef fat is sufficient).
Yum Talay
SERVES 2/3
3 medium prawns (70g)
2 large sea scallops (50g)
50g salmon fillet
50g snapper fillet
2tbsp lime juice
1½tsp nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
1 birds-eye chilli, copped
1tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Chopped cilantro or parsley for
garnish
Remove shells and de-vein
prawns and then rinse. Cook the
prawns, scallops salmon and
snapper In a pot of boiling water
until just done, about 3-4 minutes.
Remove the seafood from the pot
and drain.
In a bowl combine lime-juice
nam pla, chilli and olive oil,
stirring until well mixed. Then
flake the salmon and snapper
before tossing the seafood in the
dressing.
Garnish with parsley or cilantro
and serve
Balsamic-garlic grilled
beef steak with rocket
salad
SERVES 2
250g flank steak
Pinch of salt and pepper
1tsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove of garlic – diced
1tsp honey
1tbsp white grape
1tbsp balsalmic vingar
1 bunch of rocket leaves rinsed
and dried
Sprinkle beef with salt and pepper.
Pan-fry steak over a high heat until
medium rare (about 1½ minutes
per side). Remove from the heat,
then cut the steak into cubes.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a
low heat. Add garlic, honey, white
grape and balsamic vinegar; sauté
until just combined. Return beef to
the frying-pan with the reduction
and sauté for 1 minute.
Season to taste and serve with
the rocket leaves
Pan fried salmon with
black bean sauce
SERVES 2
2 salmon fillets with skin on
(about 120g each)
Pinch of salt
1tbsp olive oil
125ml Black Bean Sauce
Sprinkle salt all over the salmon
including the skin and let stand.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a
high heat. Pan-fry the salmon, skin
side down first, 3-4 minutes. Turn
over and cook the other side until
done (about a further 3 minutes).
When the salmon is almost done,
pour the black been sauce into
the frying pan and cook until the
sauce is reduced by about half (or
thick enough to coat the fish).
Serve the pan-fried salmon on
a bed of green salad leaves
Beef steak salad with thai
herb dressing
SERVES 2
180g beef steak – 1-2 cm
thick
½tsp salt
1tsp black pepper
3 cloves of garlic – peeled
1 lemongrass stalk – white
part only, chopped
1½tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1½tbsp lime juice
1tsp honey
1tsp Worcestershire Sauce
½tsp chopped red chilli
Salt and Pepper to taste
Combine the garlic, lemongrass,
red chilli, extra-virgin olive oil, lime
juice, honey and Worcestershire
sauce in a bowl then place into a
blender and process until coarsely
blended and set aside.
Pan fried the beefsteak over
a high heat (no oil required)
until golden brown, about 1 1½
minutes on each side. Remove
from the heat and place on a
cutting board. Cut the beef into
large cubes, season with salt
and pepper to taste and place
on a bed of salad and drizzle the
dressing over the top.
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 97
AFTER HOURS
Virgilio Martínez
The Peruvian chef’s Lima Fitzrovia restaurant has held a Michelin star since 2013. He tells
Imogen Lepere about making his first ceviche and where he goes to eat in his hometown
Clockwise: Lima’s modern
interior; Virgilio; a sculpture in
Lima, Peru; Virgilo’s stunning
food from Lima in Fitzrovia
Clockwise: Lima’s kitchen; an
Amber dessert; Maido head chef
Mitsuharu Tsumura; Maido snacks
Where did you last go on holiday? As a chef, it’s difficult to
take time off. However, I recently spent two days in Hong Kong.
In the markets, you pick out amazing seafood and vendors cook
it in front of you with sautéed vegetables and rice. When it
comes to fine dining there, I was impressed by Amber at The
Landmark Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The chef, Richard Ekkebus,
has adapted classic French cooking techniques to Chinese
cuisine. I had the best chocolate soufflé I’ve ever tasted.
How does your upbringing influence your food? We lived
by the sea in Lima and I met lots of fishermen. I used to walk
along the beach and think they looked lonely standing by
themselves so I’d help them bring in their nets and then we’d
eat together. Those were the first ceviches I made. I’d gut the
fish on the rocks and add a squeeze of lime juice. When I was
older, I used to skateboard so I spent a lot of time on the streets,
which led to my love of Peruvian street food.
What are your favourite South American flavours? Dried
potato stews like my grandmother used to make. The technique
comes from the Andes. We harvest potatoes and leave them to
dry for 30 days. By this point they’re rock-solid so we put them
in water until they ferment and then stew them.
Where in Lima do you go to eat? I love a neighbourhood
called Barranco. The atmosphere is very cool and there are lots
of cafés serving wild coffee and wild cacao. I like easy-going
cevicherias such as El Mercado and La Mar, and I highly
recommend a Japanese-Peruvian restaurant called Maido.
For traditional Peruvian dishes, you can’t beat La Picantería.
Where’s the best place you’ve eaten recently? Mugaritz in
San Sebastián. The food is very conceptual and full of emotion,
and makes you really think about what you’re eating. There isn’t
a menu and the experience lasts a few hours. I really enjoyed a
spoon made out of sugar, paper flowers and a totally reimagined
version of turrón (a traditional Spanish sweet). Next on my list is
Fäviken, Magnus Nilsson’s restaurant in Sweden.
Where do you find your inspiration? Peru’s landscapes and
its people. We’re one of the most biodiverse countries in the
Photos by Leslie Searles/PromPerú; Maido
world. Between the Andes and the Pacific Coast we have 30
climates and there are only 32 in the world, so we have an
incredible range of ingredients to choose from. The cuisine is a
fusion of cultures, including Spain, Italy, China and Japan.
What makes a great dish great? Nowadays you have to go
beyond the taste of a dish. Of course that’s important but a
great dish has a message. It should tell you about exceptional
producers and where the ingredients come from, represent who
has cooked it and tell the story of the restaurant.
To try Virgilio’s food, book a table at Lima Fitzrovia or head to
Harrods Food Halls. Visit limalondongroup.com