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Making Ethernet cables is easy, when you have the tool to crimp the
connectors. But even then, you can't always be sure that the connector has
been properly connected to the cable. Commercial network cable testers can
cost £60 or more. Here's an idea for a simple cable tester that cost under £20 if
you, or someone handy with a soldering iron, makes it from scratch.
The theory of the project find these in junk sales. Otherwise you can buy them.
This project is a simple continuity tester – but paralleled The other four significant parts are:
eight times to check each of the wires in the Ethernet A set of 8 dual in parallel – or DIP – switches. These
cable. It's just a battery and a bulb (well, light emitting can be recovered from old computer equipment. They're
diode – LED) that shows you have a good connection on especially common on old ISA PC cards because they
your connector. are used to configure the card. We've stuck ours into a
It would be very easy to produce the sort of professional 16-pin dual in line – or DIL – socket. This not only
cable testers that cost £60 to £80. But we've designed a ensures we don't damage the switches when soldering,
simple project that can be put together with minimal effort. but it also means we could reuse the DIL switches if we
ever needed some for another project.
A set of LEDs to indicate whether the wire in the cable
works when under test. We could have used old LEDs,
but instead we bought some new low power LEDs to cut
down on battery usage. Old LEDs will do OK – although
it helps if they are the same colour and size!
A single in line array – or SIL – of resistors. These
regulate the voltage in each cable to the correct value to
light the LEDs. These can be difficult to get hold of for a
particular resistance value, but you often find SILs of
random value on old computer motherboards and PC
cards. In this case you'll have to measure the resistance
of the SIL to see whether it's suitable for the project.
A battery. You could use any old 9 volt, PP3 battery.
But we've used a rechargeable battery. In fact an old
rechargeable that's getting a little past it's best, and
doesn't hold charge well, but it's OK for this project.
There's a circuit diagram for the unit on the next page.
To save on cost you could build this completely from
scrap. The only problem that you're likely to have is finding The only technical part of this project is setting the value of
the RJ-45 sockets to plug you cable into. They're actually the SIL resistors. You have to calculate this value, in
difficult to buy as single sockets. So you'd have to take Ohms, using:
apart some old network cards, or a broken hub, to get hold (battery voltage – LED forward voltage) x 1000
of them. Then you have to find a box to put all the parts in. LED forward current
So instead we've solved these two problems in one by In this case we've used special low current LEDs. So the
using a double network wall socket. You can sometimes resistor value is [(9V – 2.5V) x 1000] / 2mA, equals 3,250
As we're using an
Ethernet wall socket
you also need an IDC
insertion tool – a
small plastic prod
that's usually used to
push wires into the
connectors. Other-
wise you'll struggle to
get good connection
on the socket.
Finally, you'll need a
drill bit the same size
as your LEDs; a
couple of small bolts
to fit the stripboard
onto the case; a
Circuit diagram for tester unit
battery clip; a deep,
46mm back box
Ohms. The nearest preferred value SIL above this is 3,900 (short ones are no good for this job) to fit the Ethernet
Ohms, or 3.9k. So we use this value of SIL. If you reuse socket to; and a Stanley knife and fret saw to cut the case.
old LEDs, you can assume that they have a forward
current of around 25mA, and a forward voltage of around
2.25V, and calculate accordingly.
The other issue with LEDs is that they can only be used
one way round. The wire connected to the battery positive
– the anode – is usually the longest leg on a new LED. The
wire connected to battery negative – the cathode – is
usually marked by a small flat area on the small flange that
runs around the base of the LED body. If in doubt, get a
2.2k resistor (or there abouts) and a 9V battery, connect
the resistor to battery positive, and then connect your
LEDs between the resistor and battery negative. When the
LED is the right way around, and assuming the LED works
OK, then it will light. You can then mark the anode (wire
connected to the resistor) for later reference.
The other thing we need is hook-up wire. Use any old Beginning construction
lightweight wire. But for simplicity we used some old We begin by cutting two pieces of stripboard to the right
Ethernet cable. It's not because we need the Ethernet size. One for the switches, which is fifteen strips by six
cable. It's just so that we have the standard colour-coded holes, and one for the
wires to ensure we fix the right wires to the right terminals. LEDs, which is eleven
You'll need two 6”/15cm lengths of Ethernet cable. strips by four holes. If
We mount the components on stripboard or veroboard. you have the spare
Stripboard has copper strips with holes punched every board, it's useful to
0.1”/2.54mm. To mount the components on the board you make them a little
need a soldering iron and some solder (with a flux core to larger to make then
make the solder easier to use). If you've never used a easier to handle during
soldering iron before you should practice first by soldering construction, and then
some lengths of wire to the stripboard. The important thing cut them down before
is to get small, neat blobs of solder on the board, and to putting them inside the
ensure that you don't bridge between the copper strips. case.
You have to cut some card in between the legs (see above). This helps ensure
strips on board. On the that the LEDs all line up to the correct height – it also
switch board you cut ensures that there's enough slack in the legs to fit them
eight strips in the trough a small hole in the case. Then inset the six other
middle at the third hole LEDs so that they all line up along the card. Finally,
in from one side. On because they are spread apart, the LEDs at the edge don't
the LED board, you cut point straight up. So get some point-nosed pliers and
eight strips in the tweak them straight (see above right).
middle at the second
Now you can
hold in from one side.
solder in the
The switch board is
LEDs. Problem
mounted to the case,
is, the won't
so you need to drill a
stand up. So put
hole at each end to fit
then between
your bolts through.
the jaws of the
Next we mount the DIL point-nosed
socket and SIL array pliers and they'll
on the switch stand up
board. First enough to
place the DIL solder them.
socket so that it
We have to connect the cathodes of the LEDs together t
straddles the
couple them to the negative of the battery. We could wire
cut strips, with
them together – but it's fiddly. So instead just bridge across
the legs of the
the tracks of the stripboard as you solder each cathode.
socket on the
Finally, on the last LED, bridge the solder onto the empty
second hole
track. This will become the track that we solder the
from the edge.
negative (black) wire of the battery clip to.
If you bend the legs in slightly when you've pushed it into
the board it'll stop the socket from falling out. Then you Finally, crop off all the LED legs down to he solder joints,
mount the SIL array alongside the socket in the first line of and remove the card (see below – note the bridging of the
holes. Make sure that the ninth pin of the SIL array with the solder on the cathodes in the left picture).
large dot is on the strip in front of the DIL socket – the
other eight pins should then line up with the eight legs of
the DIL socket. Then solder everything to the board (see
above, middle).
Next we insert the LEDs into the LED board. The reason or
using 3mm LEDs is that they line up better in a small
space. But the 3mm wide LEDs still have problems on
stripboard where the holes are 2.54mm apart.
Now we have to work on the wire connections. Remove
the wires from each of the two 15cm lengths of Ethernet
cable – if you split one end, they're loose enough to just
pull out. Keep the two set of wires separate because you
need to keep this
colour coding. It
also helps if you
unravel the twisted
pairs of wires.
So, begin by inserting the first and the last LEDs. Make Begin by stripping
sure that the long leg – the anode – is facing the centre of about 6mm of
the board, not the edge. Then slide a 6mm wide strip of insulation from
each end of each wire. If the wire isn't solid, but made up the battery clip to the end pin of the SIL array on the switch
of many small wires, you have to twist the wire to make a board – the pin with the big spot above it. That completes
solid end to push through the holes of the stripboard. the soldering.
Take one set of wires and begin poking them through the
Unit assembly
holes by each LED's anode. They must be inserted in a
specific order. With the LEDs facing up, the space for the Difficult work's finished – now we begin to assemble and
wires is the bottom of the LED board. The LED to the left is test the unit.
number 1, and the one on the right is number 8. Insert the To begin,
wires in the following order: we test the
wires to
LED No. Wire colour LED No. Wire colour
make sure,
1 Orange/white 5 Blue/white
before we
2 Solid orange 6 Solid green
do anything
3 Green/white 7 Solid brown
else, that
4 Solid blue 8 Brown/white
the circuits
work OK.
As you insert
Insert the
each wire pull
DIP
tight and then
switches into the DIL socket, making sure that the 'number
bend the wire
1' switch is on the left. Connect a battery to the battery clip.
around the side
Then make sure that all the DIP switches are set to 'off'.
of the board.
Then carefully Using the wiring table above, switch on one of the DIP
solder the wire, switches, starting at one, and make sure that the correct
and cut off the LED lights when you connect the same colour wires from
excess down to the switch board and the LED board. If the correct LED
the solder joint. doesn't light, or a different one lights, check your wiring.
Again, you can When the circuit check is complete we install the two
hold the LEDs boards on the rear of the network socket (see next page).
in the jaws of Begin by placing the boards on the rear of the socket.
the pliers to Make sure that they fit, and if not, trim them slightly. You'll
keep them also have to make sure that the wires can be channelled
upright (right). so that the board can fit neatly against the surface.
When this is From the edge of the face, measure the position of the DIP
complete we switches. Then measure the position of the LEDs. You
repeat the same process with the switch board. With the now plot these positions on the front of the face. You'll also
DIL socket facing up, the SIL array is at the top of the have to measure the position of each LED in order to drill
board. The switch to the left is number 1, and the one on the hole for it to fit into.
the right is number 8. Insert the wires in the same colour
order as for the LED board. Now you have to drill the hole for each LED. Then drill the
holes for each of the fixing bolts on the switch board. Then
Finally, solder the black wire of the battery clip to the end drill a hole at each corner of the area where the DIP
of the switches will fit through the face. Now you have to get a
solder fret saw and cut out a square between the four DIP switch
bridge holes to give a neat square. You can trim the hole using a
on the sharp knife. Fit the switch board into place, and fix the
LED bolts through the face and board to keep it there.
board.
Then Fitting the LEDs is a little more difficult. They fit in place
solder because they are tight in their hole. By experimentation we
the red found that drilling holes for each LED, and then cutting this
wire of into a long slot with a sharp knife, gave the best fit. The
LEDs are able to shift and fit into the holes because of the
Cable testing – a quick 'how to' connector – so it doesn't light because the line to which it
is mis-wired is not switched on. To test this you can just
1. If necessary test the unit – switch off all switches to make switch on and off each switch to see which LED lights. For
sure all LEDs are off, insert a good (straight) cable, and example, (below, right) if switch 5 lights LED 6 instead of
then switch on the switches one at a time to make sure
LED 6, it's likely that the connector has been mis-wired.
corresponding LED lights.
2. For testing a cable quickly, make sure that only switches 1,
2, 3 and 6 are switches on.
3. If in doubt, check that the cable is straight/crossed by
holding each connector with the metal contact facing you,
and pointing to the right. On straight cables both
connectors will have the white/orange at the top. On
crossed cables one will have white/orange (the 'straight'
end) and one will have green/white (the 'crossed' end).
4. Insert cable into unit – if you are testing a 'crossed' cable The mis-wiring can also show up when you initially test the
make sure that the 'straight' plug is in the 'straight' socket cable – because although 4 LEDs light, one of them is
and the 'crossed' plug is in the 'crossed' socket. wrong (see below, left). To test this switch on and off each
5. If all's well, LEDs 1, 2, 3
switch to see which LED lights. For example, (below, right)
and 6 will light and no if switch 6 lights LED 5 instead of switch 5, it's likely that
others – see right. the connector has been mis-wired.
For Maplin ordering details see http://www.maplin.co.uk/ or phone 0870 429 6000. Above cost doesn't include tools like cutters, saws,
drills, soldering iron and solder. Note you can buy a ready made cable tester from Maplin for £59.99 (code ZY77J).
The Salvage Server Project has been developed by the Free Range Network to promote the use of redundant IT equipment as a resource for community and grass roots
campaigning organisations. This report has been produced to support the work of the project, and is made freely available to encourage the objectives of the project.
© Copyright 2003, Paul Mobbs/Free Range Network. Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms of the GNU Free
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