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Volunteering in Georgia
A Handbook
© Copyright Academy for Peace and Development, 2013
Published by the Academy for Peace and Development, Tbilisi, Georgia
Authors: Tiphaine Coulardeau and Sebastian Schweitzer

Graphic design: Tiphaine Coulardeau
First Edition, 2008
Second Edition, 2013, financed by the Danish Agency for Universities and
Internationalisation - The Danish National Agency of the Youth in Action programme
Disclaimer
The use of this handbook in part or whole is permissible providing the integrity
of the manual remains intact and an appropriate quotation and referencing system
are used.
Front cover: Graffiti, Tbilisi.
A Handbook
006
Preface
Dear volunteers going to Georgia,
Your upcoming experience of the European Voluntary Service (EVS) is certainly

going to be one of the most adventurous and personality-enriching periods in
your life. Not only because you are going to the Southern Caucasus, far away from
your home country and culture, but also because you will support the local com-
munity where you are going with your work, because you will help other people
from your heart!
By being an international volunteer you will definitely learn a lot and experience
both the bright and dark sides of the local culture you are moving to. Neverthe-
less your work will also be directed towards people there.You will need a lot of
responsibility and surely will face great moments of success shared with others.
Being a member of the large family of EVS volunteers makes you an actor of
positive change in Europe and beyond. Assume this fully and enjoy a mindful of
heartfelt emotions!
The Handbook you are just about to read will be very helpful with your pre-
paration for and awareness of many obstacles that you will meet along the way.
The Handbook might also help you a lot to identify your own objectives for your
upcoming EVS project. Altogether the Handbook can make your life and work
in Georgia easier. Enjoy reading it and remember that every EVS experience is
unique and personal.
007
SALTO EECA would like to express their deepest gratefulness and esteem to
the authors, Tiphaine Coulardeau and Sebastian Schweitzer, who have dedicated a
period in their lives to the development of Georgia in general and the European
Voluntary Service in particular. Many thanks also to the Academy of Peace and
Development in Tbilisi which for many years have supported the development of
youth in the Caucasus with great success.
The example of this Handbook clearly shows that the efforts of the Youth in
Action Programme to bring the intercultural dimension into youth work within
Europe and beyond is not only a priority but also a reality of many EVS projects in
the region.
We would like to wish all EVS volunteers who are going to their placements in
Georgia to demonstrate all the enthusiasm, energy and open-mindedness required
for the new challenges they have chosen to face. Good luck as for your personal
furtherance and your welcome contribution to local communities in Georgia.
Tomasz Szopa,
Project officer at the SALTO Eastern Europe and Caucasus Resource Centre
Table of Content
013 | BACKGROUND
017 | VOLUNTEERING IN GEORGIA
023 | EUROPEAN VOLUNTARY SERVICE
027 | European Volunteer’s Testimony
I | FACTS AND FIGURES

030 | Land of Medea
033 | Georgia saqarTvelo
037 | Open Questions
II | ARTS, CRAFTS AND CUSTOMS

048 | Once Upon a Time
051 | Guest and God
053 | Taste of Georgia
057 | Architecture Directory
062 | Personalities
067 | Inspirations
III | DAY-TO-DAY TOIL

076 | Practical Tips
082 | Leisure and Free Time
085 | Travelling
010
IV | CULTURAL STRUGGLE
092 | In a Foreign Country
095 | Cultural Particularities
100 | Cultural Guide
V | VOLUNTEERS’ GAMBLES
108 | Mind These
111 | Framework
114 | Structural Obstacles
118 | Challenges and Achievements
121 | Practical Suggestions
125 | CONCLUDING REMARKS
127 | RESOURCES
128 | Georgia
132 | Intercultural Learning
135 | European Voluntary Service
139 | THE GEORGIAN LANGUAGE

145 | ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
147 | AUTHORS
149 | GEORGIA
011
Background
This handbook is inspired by the wish to motivate young people to come as Euro-
pean Volunteers to Georgia to experience what will become a lifelong memory.
The European Voluntary Service (EVS) of the European Union offers from our point
of view a unique opportunity to meet those personal and cultural challenges that
can be found in foreign countries. The EVS programme provides a safe and suppor-
tive structure and the financial help needed by volunteers. With this handbook we
want to encourage young people to join the European Community of volunteers
in Georgia to experience life and work in a different cultural environment, acquire
knowledge, improve their skills, undergo personal changes and simply spend a great
time.
Living and working in a foreign country anywhere in the world brings a lot of ad-
venture and challenges, particularly in Georgia where you have to face them every
day. Often amazing, sometimes terrific or unforgettable but also frustrating and
daunting, these daily surprises have an enormous impact on volunteers during their
stay in the foreign country but also on their life afterwards.
It has been often noticed that even after having read a lot about cultures and li-
ving styles, you still encounter cultural surprises. At first glance, Georgians seem
to belong to European culture as many other societies of Post Soviet Union and
indeed there are many similarities to be found. But under this Western appearance,
considerable cultural differences exist. Keep in mind that Georgia is not only facing
a political and economic transition, but is also confronted to Western influences
that deeply question their traditional norms and values, and you will understand
that even Georgians find it difficult to choose between tradition and modernity or
to adapt to the fast development in their society. Consequently, being a foreigner
living and volunteering here creates plenty of confusing situations for which we
believe some cultural background information and practical advice would be helpful
View of Tbilisi from Surrounding Hills

013
to avoid problems and difficulties in daily life.
Therefore this handbook has been made for future volunteers or foreigners plan-
ning to stay longer than just a holiday in Georgia. It raises up practical, cultural and
volunteering issues about living in Georgia, because using public transportation may
be insignificant in your own country whereas using public transportation here might
be an adventure in itself.
This handbook does not have the pretention to replace the few existing travelling
guides for this region of the world. Consequently, it does not contain touristic infor-
mation as such, it only covers it when it is relevant to integrate Georgian culture.
Instead, this handbook’s topic is volunteering in Georgia and it is structured along

this line. It starts with a short chapter about volunteering that outlines the main
challenges to volunteers in a foreign country and Georgia, and it gives a brief over-
view of the EVS programme. The next two chapters are dedicated to Georgia as a
country, providing basic facts and highlighting cultural characteristics to give a true
image of this destination. The following three chapters together are the core of the
book addressing those three basic challenges encountered by any volunteer: daily
life, cultural differences and working in a Georgian organisation. At the end further
readings and other resources can be found widening information on Georgia, volun-
teer work and Intercultural Learning.
We hope that book will make you curious about coming here, for a short while or
a longer stay, and motivate young people to discover the spirit of Georgia. Enjoy
reading this book and come along to live and work here.
As the handbook is dedicated to current or future volunteers it is available as a free down-

load on the webpage of the Academy for Peace and Development, Georgia, www.apd.ge,
and of SALTO-EECA Resource Centre on www.salto-youth.net/eeca
014
015
A volunteer is a person who works for free for the benefit of a given community.Vo-
lunteers are acting on their own will - they are not forced to volunteer.They do not
receive any financial compensation for their work, except out-of-pocket expenses.
The concern of most young people is to find a job which corresponds to their
expectation and to create a family. Consequently every single action is often taken
in order to fit it into their Curricula Vitae (CVs) with their career in view. Wester-
ners particularly think ahead, plan their life and they have little time left for other
concerns, whereas volunteering - if not considered as a CV entry or a logical step
for a future job - can be taking some time for these other concerns. It is dedicating
time to oneself and to others, to think upon one’s personal aims, one’s own values
or even the world as a whole. Volunteers are generally seeking challenges, they
spend some of their time to what they believe in and to implement their own ideas
in the real world. On the way they receive a lot from the people they work with.
This makes volunteering what it is: a process of giving and receiving.
One can volunteer everywhere, at home or in foreign countries. The difference

between volunteer activities at home and foreign countries is very small and de-
pends more on the sectors in which the volunteer decides to get involved. But
to be a volunteer in a foreign country definitely adds a cultural dimension to the
project making intercultural dialogue and learning key elements in it and it enriches
the experience.The European Voluntary Service of the European Community offers
this combination of voluntary work and intercultural exchange by providing a well-
established structure for Europeans to work and live in other countries.
International volunteers usually express several reasons for volunteering, but ge-
nerally these can be divided in two broad categories: personal and professional
motivations.
Gergeti Trinity Church, 2400m of Altitude, near Mount Kazbeg

017
The professional aspect is mainly explained by the motivation to discover ano-
ther working field, to support on-going projects or to implement activities from
scratch, and to enlarge experience and widen knowledge in an already known area.
A personal argument focuses more on the following objectives: to discover a new
country and culture, to define personal aims and one’s own identity more precisely,
to develop social skills, or to help others in general. Commonly each volunteer’s
motivation consists in a mix of professional and personal elements, while one aspect
rather than the other may be emphasized by each particular volunteer. But in any
case volunteers are looking for something new or aiming to discover something
new. And a volunteer period is exactly giving that opportunity to them: professional
and personal self-development, increased awareness about the environment and
themselves, new or strengthened skills and satisfaction.
Any volunteering period in foreign countries with any organisation, the European
Voluntary Service among others, creates an impact at three different levels – the
local community, the hosting organisation and the volunteer himself or herself.
On the local community the impact has mainly two sides. On one side the activities
created or conducted by the volunteer concretely affect the hosting community
that benefits from newly set up initiatives that address public issues. On the other
side, the volunteer’s living and working creates an intercultural exchange with some
informally learned elements for those who interact with the foreign volunteer,
which increases cultural awareness.
The hosting organisation too is not only affected by the volunteers’ presence in
cultural terms. As a supplementary worker the volunteer contributes his or her
new ideas, points of view and initiatives to on-going or newly created projects. Mo-
reover, his or her approaches, methods and skills can improve the work of the host
organisation when imported and implemented.
Finally for the volunteer going to a foreign country provides him or her with work
experience, enhances his or her skills and knowledge, but also raises his or her
awareness about his or her own culture and the hosting culture leading to widened
intercultural understanding and tolerance. The entire volunteering period has an
impact on the volunteer’s self-confidence, because living and working in a foreign
country makes the volunteer feel and understand which of his or her own abilities
he or she can mobilize.
018
Of course too, unexpected results may come out of a volunteering project. The
projects implemented by the volunteer can fail to comply with the community’s
needs or simply when not well conducted they may locally give a bad reputation to
the hosting organisation.The volunteer can get frustrated because he or she cannot
reach his or her personal and professional goals.
These impacts, positive or negative, are not specific to volunteering in Georgia.They

occur in most international voluntary projects, but we must emphasize here that
these impacts are amplified by the particular challenges a volunteer assigns to him-
self or herself when going to an emerging country like Georgia. Georgia offers to
each volunteer coming here the satisfaction of both their personal and professional
goals and above mentioned expectations.
Georgia being a country in transition undergoing a shift from a socialist economy

to capitalism, we can find elements from both systems. This and the fact that the
country is in a permanent state of development endows daily life with a specific set
of adventures and logistic questions that are unknown in Western countries. Public
transportation, supply infrastructures or simple shopping require more attention
from a foreigner than commonly expected.
As Georgia is located at the meeting point between Asia and Europe the culture
features particularities that make volunteering here an intercultural experience,
too. A volunteer will be confronted to a society in which traditions still play an
important role and in which the concepts of time and interpersonal relations have
a different meaning. To discover Georgian culture and to adapt to it when coming
from Europe will require much more thinking than requested when staying within
Western Europe for an EVS project, but it will on the other hand also enrich the
person’s perception of cultural differences and their value.
Due to the Post-Soviet heritage of the country and the chaotic early 1990s Non-
Governmental Organisations are still developing and that is why volunteers have
the unique opportunity more than in Western Europe to bring considerable contri-
butions to local activities and to the organisations themselves. This is challenging
since a lot will depend on the initiatives of the volunteer himself or herself. Howe-
ver, original opinions and points of view, different working styles and rhythms, and
new ideas for projects are highly welcome here.
019
According to what has just been said, for every volunteering project in a foreign
country there exists a challenge containing three sub-challenges which a volunteer
will have to face when coming to Georgia. This handbook is dedicated to them in
order to help with integration in the country and the hosting organisation and
facilitate cultural adaptation.
Therefore, this handbook is organised as follows. After a short overview on the

European Voluntary Service of the European Community, the first two chapters
give significant background information concerning Georgia, its history, traditions,
politics, etc. These two chapters are followed by three more chapters dedicated to
the respective challenges listed below that are deeply interconnected.
Day-To-Day Toil describes the obstacles a volunteer has to overcome in arranging his
daily life in Georgia. It addresses the smaller or bigger but surely significant differen-
ces of how daily-life logistics are organised here.
Cultural Struggle covers the intercultural aspect of volunteering in Georgia and il-
lustrates Georgian cultural particularities volunteers have to deal with when living
and working here.
Volunteers’ Gambles deals with the working environment of the volunteer and tackles
problems that might occur when volunteering in a Georgian organisation.
Finally this handbook contains real life testimonies and anecdotes from former or
current volunteers in Georgia in order to share experiences and to provide an
insight into Georgian volunteering reality.
020
021
European Voluntary Service
The European Voluntary Service (EVS) is part of the Youth in Action programme set
up by the European Union. It gives the opportunity to young people to experience
life in another country for a few months by living and working there. This chapter
presents the main lines of the EVS programme.
The European Voluntary Service (EVS) is a programme established to offer a “lear-

ning period” to young people, meaning that the volunteer does not need any bac-
kground education, specific skills or language knowledge to participate.The intention
is that every young person aged 18 to 30 - in some specific cases from 16 onwards
- can take part in a non-profit activity in order to enhance their personal, professio-
nal and also intercultural skills. The main goal of the European Community’s giving
this opportunity to young people is to build peace by creating intercultural bridges
across Europe and having a direct impact on local communities.
A European Volunteer can take part in the activities of organisations committed to

different goals: the environment, social care, education, culture, Human Rights, youth,
arts, etc. While spending up to 12 months in the foreign country, the volunteer is
supposed to interact with the local community of his hosting country in order to
increase tolerance and European awareness. The Youth in Action programme espe-
cially focuses on young people with fewer opportunities, hence young people from
isolated areas, with a disability or any characteristic decreasing their chances to be
fully integrated into their local community.
The European Voluntary Service can take place in most of the world’s countries,
Artificial Lake near Ananuri

023
but it mainly targets European Union countries plus Turkey, Lichtenstein, Iceland,
Norway and Switzerland (so called Programme Countries) and Neighbouring Coun-
tries - Eastern Europe and Caucasus (EECA), the Mediterranean region (EuroMed)
and South East Europe (SEE). During this learning period volunteers are supported
with different training programmes helping them to face challenges and to multiply
the impact and effect of their volunteering period, by sharing experiences and im-
pressions with other volunteers - the different training programmes and supportive
measures are detailed in the chapter entitled Framework. The living expenses of the
volunteer are fully covered and the EVS budget also takes care of sharing and sprea-
ding experiences in Europe by organising, when possible, specific events connected
with the volunteering period.
In order to learn more about it, you will find below a short description of the
EVS programme. Future volunteers will discover basic elements and, if necessary,
the chapter entitled Resources will provide you with further documentation and
addresses.
“Youth in Action!” This is the name of the programme dedicated to youth by

the European Community for the period 2007-2013. It contains different types
of activities all dedicated to non-formal education and intercultural learning. The
European Voluntary Service is listed as Action 2 in this programme. The next Youth
programme generation will start in 2014 and might bring changes to the technical
information presented in this guide.
Eastern Europe and Caucasus (EECA). This region which includes seven
countries - Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Georgia, Moldova, Russia and Ukraine - is
a partner region for the Youth in Action programme. It is possible to develop Eu-
ropean Voluntary Service projects with organisations located in these countries. A
Resource Centre dedicated to the cooperation with this region has been set-up by
the European Community in order to support activities - contacts are detailed in
the chapter Resources.
Sending Organisation. Volunteers are sent by a given organisation from their

own country. This organisation helps them to find an EVS placement in the des-
tination country. During the volunteering period, the sending organisation keeps
contact with the volunteers and follows the evolution of the project.
024
Hosting Organisation. This is the organisation that hosts the volunteer by provi-
ding a work placement and some specific and appointed tasks within its own struc-
ture. The hosting organisation is responsible for the arrangements concerning the
volunteer’s stay - accommodation, local transportation, food, etc. They also appoint
the mentor and the coordinator of the volunteer and prepare them concerning
their duties and responsibilities.
Coordinator. This person, working in the hosting organisation, acts in cooperation

with the volunteer. The coordinator gives tasks to the volunteer and supports the
development of the volunteer’s own project. The coordinator is the main person
the volunteer refers to within the working environment.
Mentor. This is the person who helps the volunteer to settle in the new environ-
ment, to get to know locals and to support him in case of difficulties. The mentor
knows the hosting placement and plays the role of mediator in case of conflict.
Costs. The EVS programme covers 90% of the travel costs from home to the
hosting placement, all expenses for accommodation, food, local transport and work-
related activity costs, as well as all costs related to visa, vaccination or any special
needs of the volunteer. All exceptional costs need to be listed beforehand in the
budget in order to be covered.
Volunteer Allowance. It is the money the volunteer receives as personal pocket

money. This amount is €80 per month for Georgia in 2013.
Insurance. A European volunteer has insurance coverage at AXA Insurance Com-

pany and at MSH International - every volunteer receives an insurance certificate
before leaving. The volunteer needs to inform the insurance when going under
medical treatment in order to be reimbursed. In case of planned treatment, the
insurance may provide pre-paid care. The insurance covers diverse fields and the
volunteer is advised to read the insurance contact before leaving in order to fully
know his coverage.
025
European Volunteer’s Testimony
“I have spent half a year in Georgia and it is hard to say something about it in a few
words! But what I can say is that I have never felt in my life so many different emotions:
sometimes devastating and sometimes magical like in fairytales.Who knows if it is
because of Georgia or EVS?!
Georgia! A country with many faces: marvellous mountains, the Black Sea, marshrutkas,
homemade wine, crazily organised traffic, romantic streets and houses in Tbilisi, joyful
people and a lot more. If you decide to forget for a while the way you used to live and to
move to Georgia, you will experience a lot! You think this disorganised society will eat your
last grit and stamina: it might well just be the first impression! Take a deeper look and
you may learn the joy of life...
People! Georgians have kind of “easy going”, hard to catch, life approaches that you
might have forgotten because of the lack of time in our Western societies…or maybe
just because of a different use of time.We have only one life and it is important to enjoy
it: you will learn a lot from Georgians!”
View on the Harbour, Batumi

027
Facts and Figures
Facts and Figures offers basic information concerning Georgia, its history, its current
situation and its perspectives. It wishes to create motivation and widen knowledge
about the country. These basic facts are valuable for a newcomer because they are
the groundwork for further understanding, and therefore for better integration in
the country and its culture. The Open Questions section closing the chapter, states
the challenges Georgia is presently confronted to and which volunteers will be, if
not directly involved with, at least facing.
This part, by depicting Georgia’s situation, wishes to give an idea of where volun-
teers can contribute energy, time and ideas.
Wine Red Clay Amphora, Open Air Museum of Ethnography,Tbilisi

029
Land of Medea
Georgia, often known as the Land of received strong cultural influences from
Medea, possesses a long and rich his- their neighbours – Persians, Greeks
tory. The earliest proof of settlements and Byzantines. The Georgian Kingdom
in Georgia is circa 1.8 million years old. adopted Christianity in 335.
Georgian history is characterised by in-
vasions from different neighbours who Medieval Times. The Persians and
brought cosmopolitan influences to the the Byzantine Empire struggled about
country - nevertheless Georgia kept its the region and control switched back
own specificities through the centuries. and forth several times between them.
Having a short overview on where the Several fragmented feudal regions were
people and the land come from is the the result of this instability and opened
keystone for understanding the country the way to invasion by Arabs in the 7th
today. The main historical lines are des- century. However, Kartli-Iberia remai-
cribed below. ned very independent and Eastern and
Western Georgia were united in the
Antiquity. There are proofs of a deve- 11th century, which initiated the Geor-
loped Georgian civilisation as far back gian Golden Age. The young King from
as the 7th century BCE thanks to urban, the Bagrationi Family, David IV (Agh-
metallurgic and goldsmith heritages. mashenebeli, also called The Builder, c.
However, the actual territory of Geor- 1089 - 1125) drove the Seljuk Turks out
gia has been inhabited since the early of the country and expanded the terri-
Stone Age. The Ancient Greeks and Ro- tory southwards and eastwards.
mans record Georgia to be then divi-
ded into two Empires, known as Iberia Thanks to its unity and its prosperous
on the East and Colchis on the West. exchanges with the Christian and Isla-
Colchis is associated by Greek Mytho- mic Worlds, Georgia advanced in va-
logy to the place where Jason and the rious cultural fields such as literature
Argonauts sought the Golden Fleece. In and politics. This brought the united
this period of history, both territories Georgia into a real Renaissance in
030 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

the 12th and 13th centuries, about two ced a revival in the increased awareness
hundred years before the similar Re- concerning culture and language. Driven
naissance in the Western World. This by the nationalistic elite, mainly brought
Golden Age was possible thanks to the up by the writer-journalist Ilia Chavcha-
political consolidation of the State in vadze and the poet Akaki Tsereteli, this
the 11th century. Then, under the reign movement led to the independence of
of Queen Tamar (r. 1184 - 1213), the the Democratic Republic of Georgia in
epic poem of Rustaveli The Knight in the 1918.
Panther’s Skin was written as an ode to
humanist values. The Renaissance brou- Soviet Union. The independent state
ght significant improvements in state lasted three years from 1918 to 1921
organisation, secular politics, culture, when Georgia was invaded by the Red
philosophy and literature, as well as re- Army and integrated into the Soviet
ligious and ethnic tolerance. The effects Union.
of the Golden Age are still visible in the
cathedrals, fortresses and the romantic In 1922, Stalin, a son of the country,
literature. became General Secretary of the Com-
munist Party of the Soviet Union. He
The Golden Age was brought to an end stayed in power until his death in 1953.
by the Mongol Invasion in the 13th cen- During these decades Georgians, like
tury which marked the beginning of a everyone in the Soviet Union, suffered
period of Persian and Turkish invasions from political repression and persecu-
which will last six centuries. During that tion - the Great Purges of 1937-1938,
period, the present Georgian territory directed by Stalin, deeply affected the
was entirely fragmented. country. During WW2, Georgians fou-
ght on the side of the Red Army.
Russian Empire. In 1783 Georgian
representatives signed the Treaty of During the Soviet era, Georgia develo-
Georgievsk with the Russian Empire ped significantly, especially in the fields
that established a protectorate. This of education, industry and urbanisation.
agreement was broken a few years later However, from the 60’s onward, nationa-
and Georgia was annexed by the Rus- list movements claiming independence
sian Empire in 1801.This date marks the for the Georgian nation became more
end of the Bagrationi Dynasty. and more popular among Georgians.
One century later, at the end of the 20th Independence. On April 9, 1989, a
century, the Georgian nation experien- peaceful Georgian demonstration was
. . . Facts and Figures . . . 031

brutally repressed by the Soviet army. in 2003 and re-elected in 2008. The
Following this event, the Georgian government - mainly West-oriented -
parliament declared independence on aims to join NATO and tries to recover
April 9, 1991 after the collapse of the control over the whole Georgian terri-
Soviet Union. The nationalist Zviad tory. Since 2006 foreign relations with
Gamsakhurdia was elected President of Russia have deteriorated unequivocally.,
the Republic of Georgia until a military leading to an open conflict over South
coup deposed him at the end of 1991 Ossetia in August 2008. As a result, it
and de facto brought Eduard Shevard- seems that re-gaining territorial control
nadze to office. Shevardnadze officially of South Ossetia and Abkhazia is more
became the second President of Geor- than ever before out of reach for Geor-
gia in 1995 and was re-elected in 2000 gia. However, the European Union
although there were some clear allega- has established a Monitoring Mission
tions of vote-rigging. (EUMM) that observes the situation on
the conflict borders with Abkhazia and
The country suffered a few years of ins- South Ossetia.
tability and economic crisis. From 1991
to 1995 the country was in a state of The parliamentary elections in 2012
civil war. At the same time territorial brought a change of government with
conflicts occurred with different seces- a new prime minister, Bidzina Ivanishvili
sionist regions: Adjara, South Ossetia representing Georgian Dream, a political
and Abkhazia. The war in Abkhazia in party opposing President Saakashvili`s
1992 and 1993 especially provoked dra- United National Movement. The switch
matic massive internal displacements of of power went calmly with Saakashvili
many Georgians from Abkhazia. These officially recognising the election results
Internal Displaced People (IDPs) left and appointing a new government. The
their homes behind and settled in many OSCE evaluated the elections as trans-
cities of Georgia. Ethnic cleansing took parent.
place during this war which opposed
mainly Abkhazians and North Cauca-
sians people to Georgians.
In 2003, Eduard Shevardnadze resi-

gned as a consequence of the popular
bloodless Rose Revolution. Since then,
the President of the country has been
Mikheil Saakashvili, who was elected

Georgia saqarTvelo
Georgia is called sakartvelo saqar- tries: the Russian Federation North,
Tvelo by Georgians themselves, Azerbaijan East, and Armenia and Tur-
their language is kartuli qarTuli, and key South. The Black Sea borders Geor-
Georgians name themselves kartvelebi gia on the West. Due to the separatist
qarTvelebi. This name comes from regions of Abkhazia and South-Ossetia,
Kartlos who, according to the legend, there are internal borders which are
is the father of Georgians. The interna- not recognised by the international
tional name Georgia can be explained community, but only by a few countries,
in several ways - the Greek and Latin for instance Russia.
roots of Georgia mean “tiller of the
land” or “agriculture” but it might also The climate in Georgia is very diverse
come from Saint George, the most ad- considering the small dimension of the
mired Saint in the country. country. Georgia is protected from the
cold air mass in the North by the Grea-
Below basic facts about the country are ter Caucasus Mountain Range and from
detailed giving a general picture about the dry and hot air masses in the South
present Georgia. by the Lower Caucasian Mountains. In
the Western part of the country the
Geography. Georgia is situated in the climate is considered as humid subtro-
Trans-Caucasian region, between Eu- pical while in the Eastern part it varies
rope, Asia and the Middle East, on the from humid subtropical to continental.
territory located between the Black Some areas in the mountainous areas
and Caspian Seas. The country is na- are snow-covered most of the year.
turally bordered on the North by the Due to these various climates, the
Greater Caucasus Mountain Range and country features an amazing collection
on the South by the Lower Caucasus of extreme landscapes: high mountains,
Mountain Range. semi-deserts, semi-tropical forests with
luxurious vegetation, rivers, lakes, the
Georgia has four neighbouring coun- Black Sea coast, etc.

Around 4.5 million people are estima- The actual President is Mikheil Saakas-
ted to live in Georgia. The main emigra- hvili. Brought to power by the Rose Re-
ted Georgian communities are in Turkey, volution he was re-elected on January 5,
Russia, the USA and Western Europe. 2008 in the first round of the election
An unknown amount of refugees are with about 53 % of the votes. In 2008
also living in Georgia: they mainly come during the elections some fraud and
from Chechnya. The two main minori- irregularities were observed, but the
ties living in Georgia are Armenians and Organisation for Security and Co-ope-
Azerbaijanis. ration in Europe (OSCE) confirmed the
results. Mikheil Saakashvili is one of the
The demographic density of Georgia is youngest Presidents in Europe.
about 64 inhabitants per square kilo-
metre. The Netherlands in comparison The legislative branch consists of a uni-
have a density of 393 and Malta Island cameral parliament with 150 members
of 1272. In some remote mountainous of which 75 are elected by proportional
Georgian areas, nobody can be found. representation and 75 from single-seat
constituencies. The parliament serves
The capital city is Tbilisi. The number of for five years and is located in Kutaisi
inhabitants is usually estimated to be since 2012.
around1.5 million. However it is difficult
to find the exact number of people living Economics. The currency is called Lari
in the capital due to the high number of lari and is usually written GEL. 100
Internally Displaced People (IDPs) from Tetri TeTri correspond to 1 Lari. No-
Abkhazia and South Ossetia. tes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 GEL
and coins of 5, 10, 20, 50 Tetri and 1 and
Politics. Georgia became independent 2 GEL can be found. The currency was
from the Soviet Union on April 9, 1991. launched in 1995 by President Shevard-
nadze in order to replace the tempora-
Georgia is a Republic which is admi- ry currency Kupon Lari chosen for the
nistratively divided into nine regions, period following the independence. The
one city and two autonomous regions, exchange rate to the Euro varies from
Abkhazia and South Ossetia. The politi- €2.10 up to €2.25.
cal system is semi-presidential with a di-
rectly elected president for a five years In 2012-2013, the inflation rate was ne-
term as the head of the state and of the gative. The median salary is fairly low in
government. comparison with European averages:

the average income in 2011 according range of public and private institutions.
to Geostat was 636 GEL a month. Since Georgia entered the Bologna
Process in 2005, academic studies have
Considering the economy by sectors been divided in a three year Bachelor’s
shows figures of a developed country degree, a two year Master’s degree and
with a contribution to the GDP of 13.5 a three year Doctoral degree. Since
% for agriculture, 25.9 % for industry the reform of higher education, bribing
and 60.6 % for services (2006). Howe- which was common before for entering
ver, the statistics indicating employment university or passing exams, have mainly
by sectors tell us a different story: about disappeared. Universities and higher
50 % of the working population is em- education schools are still developing
ployed in agriculture while only around and implementing the new academic
9 % is in industry. structure.
The rate of unemployment in Georgia Languages. Georgia has two official

in 2012 was around 15 % (Geostat) but languages: Georgian and Abkhaz, due
differs a lot among regions and cities. to the autonomous status of Abkhazia.
Georgian qarTuli (kartuli), the most
The Human Development Index (HDI) common South Caucasian language is
of Georgia is 0,745 in 2012. In compari- spoken by around 4.1 million people.
son Poland is ranked 0,821 and France Megrelian, Svan and Lza are other South
0,893. Caucasian languages.The currently used
alphabet is called mkhedruli mxedruli
Education. School education is or- and features 33 characters. The written
ganised in two stages: primary and se- alphabet does not distinguish lowercase
condary education. While primary edu- and uppercase. Georgian language has
cation that includes primary and basic nine noun cases but no articles. It uses
school, is compulsory for nine years, se- postpositions, agglutination and word
condary education is optional and leads derivation. The Georgian counting sys-
to a diploma that gives access to higher tem is based on 20, known as a vigesi-
education. The primary school enrol- mal system.
ment rate is 93 % while the secondary
enrolment rate is about 82 %. The lite- Due to Georgia long belonging to the
racy rate is similar to the literacy rates Soviet Union, most Georgians speak
in Western European countries. Russian. A lot of signs or restaurant
menus are still displayed in Russian
Higher education is provided by a broad and Georgians are switching naturally

to Russian when they meet foreigners. In Georgia, the Orthodox Church fol-
In some regions of Georgia, the most lows the Julian calendar. Religious events
spoken languages are Azerbaijani or take place according to this calendar,
Armenian considering that these com- and not according to the Gregorian ca-
munities constitute the majority there. lendar, which is followed by Catholics
English is not very common yet but no- or Protestants. Therefore Christmas
wadays young people are mostly lear- and New Year happen on different days
ning English instead of Russian. according to the calendar you refer to.
Religion. Georgia was the second state

to adopt Christianity in the 4th century.
The Orthodox Religion remains very
important in the lives of Georgians.
Around 84 % of them are Orthodox.
Religious minorities include Islam (10%),
the Armenian Apostolic Church (3%),
Roman Catholicism and Judaism (both
less than 1 %).
Holidays. The Official holidays are:

. New Year (January 1st)
. Orthodox Christmas (January 7th)
. Epiphany (January 19th)
. Mother’s Day (March 3rd)
. International Women’s Day (March
8th)
. National Unity Day (April 9th)
. Orthodox Good Friday, Great Satur-
day, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday
(following the Julian calendar)
.Victory Day (May 9th)
. Saint Andrew’s Day (May 12th)
. Independence Day (May 26th)
. Dormition Day (August 28th)
. Day of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of
Mtskheta (October 14th)
. Saint George’s Day (November 23rd)

Open Questions
Georgia since its independence from cially split, Georgia will encounter un-
the Soviet Union has been having diffi- solvable problems. Understandably, the
culties at diverse levels. Besides econo- frozen conflicts in Abkhazia and South
mic problems and poverty, the country Ossetia, and the estimated 280,000
faces difficulties in its democratic Internally Displaced People (IDPs)
development and hardly reaches its living in Georgia, are the main political
goals concerning human rights, regional question marks. It is unclear when and
conflicts, gender equality, etc. how the conflicts will be solved, if the
IDPs will safely go back to their homes
Below the challenges that Georgia or if the independence of these two
presently faces are listed and they are secessionist regions will be recognised
those the volunteer will be confronted by the international community, and if
to. that happened, how the governments
then in charge would deal with the
This part should be used as an orien- IDPs and their belongings.
tation sheet for future volunteers
- it states possible working fields for Volunteers will be confronted with the
volunteers. existence of the two frozen conflicts.
Even if they are not directly involved
Territory. The territorial integrity of in activities for the peaceful resolution
Georgia is one of the main issues here: of these conflicts, they will surely be in
Abkhazia and South Ossetia are two contact with groups connected to the
separatists regions which declared conflicts, especially if the hosting orga-
their independence but did not acquire nisation has IDPs as target groups.
it because of the lack of recognition
from the international community and Economic Development. Georgia,
from Georgia itself - their status re- since the independence, has under-
mains unclear. As long as the territory taken deep changes to transit from
will not be fully under control or offi- socialism to capitalism. Unfortunately,

on one hand luxurious hotels and minorities, refugees, sexual minorities,
shops are flourishing in the centre of disabled people, women and children
Tbilisi and along the Black Sea coast, are, according to international orga-
while on the other hand, remote areas nisations, often violated. Nevertheless
have difficulties with supplies delivery. it seems that the general situation is
The unemployment rate is fairly high improving,.
in major cities while the only acti-
vity in smaller cities or countryside Raising awareness on Human Ri-
areas is farming. For this group of ghts in Georgia is a great challenge
people - who are the majority in the for volunteers, considering that the
country - setting-up a small company organisations existing and working
or business is not affordable. The state on this issue still undergo a process
encounters difficulties in providing of capacity development. Even in an
support to people and lacks a strategy organisation non-specifically focusing
for employment. on Human Rights, some actions might
be undertaken.
When coming to Georgia, a volunteer
might be involved in small business NB: Because Human Rights concern a
development projects. Some organisa- lot of different subjects and interests,
tions are specialised in supporting the several issues - which are included
creation of sustainable companies by under the Human Rights title - are
giving advice and micro-loans, and by developed below. They are of a parti-
following the evolution of the projects cular importance for the country and
and the benefits for the families behind volunteers, and therefore need to be
the companies and the community. mentioned in more detail.
Human Rights. Georgia is classified Inclusion of Minorities. Several

as a middle ranking country as for Hu- ethnic minorities are living in Geor-
man Rights. Some violations of Human gia - the main two are Armenians and
Rights have been and are still observed Azerbaijanis. Minorities are mainly
at different levels: freedom of speech, living among themselves - cooperation
living conditions of vulnerable groups and contacts between the different
(IDPs, disabled, etc.), illegal arrests and communities are not frequent. In
impunity, pressure on Non-Govern- some regions of Georgia even closed
mental Organisations, torture and so minority settlements are to be found
on. The Human Rights of minorities or in which the inhabitants do not speak
fragile groups like religious and ethnic any Georgian. In those regions, the

minority languages are the communi- emancipation of women is a challenge:
cation languages among the members working outside the family, living alone,
of these communities. While in Soviet marrying a chosen person, going out
times Russian linked Georgians and or visiting friends are not as free as in
the minorities together, nowadays Western countries. Besides, gender
children do not learn Russian at school roles are usually divided as follow: a
anymore. These Georgian citizens, like man is considered as the one providing
their parents already do, might meet money to the household while a wo-
difficulties for further integration - the man should take care of children and
first of these difficulties is clearly the house chores. Because these roles are
language barrier. To solve this current currently undergoing deep change, you
problem the government is trying to can commonly hear some very ambiva-
implement closer cooperation and lent statements from Georgians about
specific educational structures. But the their future household. Nevertheless
issue survives nevertheless. women can get to very high positions
in politics or business, often thanks
Some organisations are actively to hard work and family concessions.
working on building bridges between Finding compromises between reality,
communities.Volunteers might be tradition and Western influence is defi-
involved in minority issues if working nitely hard for the present generation.
in an organisation targeting minori-
ties. Being involved in activities aiming As a volunteer being just and fair as for
at enhancing the awareness of the gender equality in Georgia is perso-
differences and similarities between nally and professionally challenging.
communities is a real challenge for vo- Even if volunteering projects are not
lunteers because plenty of stereotypes directly gender-related, volunteers will
exist among Caucasians. for sure face situations where overco-
ming prejudice and negative behaviour
Gender Equality. It remains easy to is needed. More directly, some training
state that gender equality is an issue and gender equality workshops open
in Georgia. Men and women do not to Georgians of all ages are highly
have the same influences and roles in needed.
spheres like politics, the economy or
education. Knowing that this is also an Democratic Development. Georgia
issue in Western countries, it is needed has undertaken some deep reforms in
to add that the gap between genders is the political field since independence,
a lot wider in Southern Caucasus. The and even faster in the last decade.

Some significant reforms have been un- contribute to small-scale community
dertaken successfully like for example activities realising their own ideas. If
the Police reform (2004) which put a initiative is stimulated and information
final stop to daily corruption. However on what is possible spread, Georgian
some illegal actions against demo- society will most probably evolve into
cratic principles were and are still a society with less poverty and more
observed: election rigging, pressures equality.
on political parties, limited freedom of
speech on internal affairs, etc. Because Being a volunteer in Georgia gives the
the Western-oriented government example that it is possible to learn
of Saakashvili allowed international differently from studying in schools and
investment to enter the country easily, universities or from working profes-
international authorities often ignored sionally. Furthermore, a volunteer,
these transgressions of democratic through his or her commitment to
principles - e.g. the observation of the implementation of grass-rooted
election rigging by OSCE in 2008 was projects and through his or her will
somewhat minimised. to take responsibilities in the local
community will pass around his enthu-
Volunteers will be confronted with this siasm for informal education and will
issue especially if their activities takes probably generate initiatives from and
place in an organisation surveying, for Georgians.
observing or criticizing democratic
processes. Monitoring elections, obser- Civil Society. In Georgia plenty of
ving corruption at different levels, or Non-Governmental Organisations are
simply following politics in the media registered: officially around 4,000. But
are of high interest for volunteers to registration does not mean activity
understand the state of democratic and only a few hundreds of them are
development in Georgia. actually active. According to Western
standards the structure of a lot of
Citizenship and Participation. The organisations is very often unclear.
lack of active participation in cultural, Workers might not have specific
political or social life is somehow a fac- tasks or positions. They are very often
tual reality and is probably due to the volunteers, combining this activity with
state of the economy in the country other non-paid or paid activities. This
and to historical processes. However, often decreases the sense of involve-
young people – once introduced to op- ment or responsibility. Organisations
portunities – become very active and might be active only a few months a

year. Moreover, an organisation might Georgians and therefore prevention
lack internal coordination and com- can only be implemented slowly.
munication. Finding or giving support,
or even sharing ideas and experiences Volunteers can get directly involved
with the workers is a challenge in itself. with this issue by organising and/
There is a real need for developing or conducting discussions on HIV/
structured activities and cooperation AIDS prevention. They will encounter
among Georgian organisations. difficulties to deal with gender roles,
sexual relations or drugs abuse among
As a volunteer, it might be hard to deal the participants, but these activities are
or cooperate with an unorganised highly needed.
structure, but on the other hand, it
gives you great freedom to take initia- Environment. In Georgia, the
tives and develop activities or projects consciousness of ecology or the
from scratch or to enhance coopera- environment is still developing. As
tion among workers by taking part in a Westerner you will probably be
already existing projects. shocked to see taps wasting litres of
water an hour or people throwing
HIV/ AIDS Prevention. The actual their trash out the window of their
number of HIV positive persons in cars. A lot has to be developed here
Georgia has been increasing signifi- concerning ecology and sustainability.
cantly over recent years, in the same Considering the natural treasures of
way as in most so called “developing Georgia, its flora and fauna, working on
countries”. Infection is mainly due to protecting the biodiversity and raising
unprotected sexual relations and the sustainability awareness is particularly
exchange of used IV needles. Since relevant. Also since the country has
sexual relations among young people not yet been spoiled by the invasion
challenge social norms almost no of mass tourism, and the agricultural
prevention or information is available system for instance is still human in
for young people on HIV/ AIDS, the scale, decisions in favour of the envi-
infection routes and consequences. ronment have to be taken right now
Also information is hardly available ahead of the present modernisation of
to prevent the common practice of the country.
sharing IV needles for drug users. Both
issues - drug use and sexual relations Various organisations are already
- can hardly be addressed in schools working on raising awareness on
because they remain taboos among environment protection and they defi-

nitely need support from experienced about the importance of heritage. They
and inexperienced volunteers clearly can also directly participate by working
focused on sustainability with creative on renovation or conservation sites
ideas and a high motivation. or by supporting a museum or an
archaeological site.
Heritage Protection. Georgia pos-
sesses an incredibly rich cultural and
natural heritage with castles, fortresses,
churches, cathedrals, medieval towers,
industrial heritage too, as well as
landscapes, rare flora and many other
treasures. Three sites are registered
as UNESCO World Heritage which
provides them with specific protection
and support: Bagrati Cathedral and
Gelati Monastery in Kutaisi, the Histo-
rical Monuments of Mtskheta and the
Upper Svaneti region (all inscribed on
the List of World Heritage in Danger
for various reasons). Due to the lack
of funds and controversial choices for
conservation and rehabilitation, most
of the archaeological, architectural and
environmental sites suffer. The priority
of the government, which is to develop
a touristic infrastructure, focuses pre-
dominantly on a few main monuments
and sites leaving many tasks in the
field of cultural heritage protection to
Non-Governmental Organisations or
international missions.
Volunteers in Georgia can have a direct

and indirect influence on heritage
preservation. By showing their respect
to sites of high common interest, they
will first of all help to raise awareness

“European Voluntary Service...To be honest I had never heard about it, until I came to
Georgia for voluntary work. And to be even more honest, I had never even contemplated
going to Georgia either. My decision to go there came out of the blue, but hey, I had
finished my studies and I had no real further plans, so why not go?
After a few weeks imagining I was on a very long holiday, reality hit me. ‘Why did I decide
to come to Georgia?’ My projects were not developing the way I wished, I didn’t have the
impression of doing anything useful, and I missed my friends and family. Georgia’s strange
ways could only make me angry and feel even more depressed. All I wanted was to go
home.
But as weeks went by, my activities as a trainer started to pick up, I met new people
and started to feel more at home in Tbilisi. I noticed how good it felt to show the city to
friends who came over, and when I returned from a short trip to Armenia I realised I was
very happy to be back. Georgia and Tbilisi had become my home.”
Warm Sulphur Springs, near Zugdidi

045
Arts, Crafts and Customs
Arts, Crafts and Customs offers fundamentals about Georgian culture and you will ne-
ver come to the end of it in Georgia.This part gives therefore a short tour on what
Georgia has to offer in terms of legends, customs, cuisine, architecture or renowned
people. At the end, a short directory is given, featuring places and events which will
help you to become familiar with diverse aspects of Georgian culture.
This chapter aims at giving basics concerning culture for further understanding
Georgian cultural particularities.
Men in Traditional Costumes

047
Once Upon a Time
Georgia is the country of legends where they would raise their children.
and stories. Thousands of myths exist Every group, except one.
and each of them illustrates different
aspects of Georgian culture, creating When every human was busy finding
together an immense mosaic of hidden a place to settle, one group of people
memories. It is the truth to say we can was just enjoying themselves by eating
find a legend about every single stone delicious dishes, drinking the nectar of
we come across. grapes and sharing their emotions with
their closest relatives. They all praised
Below are three of the most famous God together. These people were
legends that Georgians would proudly Georgians.
tell to newcomers.
After having enjoyed their Supra, they
The Creation of Georgia. This came to God and asked, last but not
legend is the most famous in Georgia. least, for a piece of land where they
It features diverse endings or compo- could settle for good once and for all.
nents according to the story-teller. It God, annoyed, replied that He did not
is very similar to the legend told by have any space left. He had already
other ethnic groups in the Caucasus, given everything.
like Armenians, Abkhazians or Circas-
sians. But, one special piece of land had
been left for God himself. It was like
God created the universe, the earth Paradise. It was the only place in the
and all the beauties that our world of- world where the sea met with snow-
fers. All nations came to God in order capped mountains, where the soil from
to ask for a piece of land, to settle, to deserts, forests, grasslands offered the
build their homes and develop their most delicious fruits, where the most
civilisations. All of them came and God beautiful species of birds, butterflies
found a perfect place on earth for all and bears were living in harmony,
048 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . .

where there was always enough water out a dragon tooth and fight with the
for nature and where the sunshine and army of men who would come out of
the moon revealed the hidden beauty it. Medea, the daughter of King Aeetes,
of every single stone, tree, waterfall who was skilled in potion making and
and flower... magic, had fallen in love with Jason and
she promised to help him if he married
Although He had prepared this Pa- her. Jason accepted the agreement and
radise with specific care and love for thanks to Medea’s potions he managed
Himself, God saw the good in those to survive Aeetes’ challenges and steal
latecomers and recognised that they the Golden Fleece from the dragon
truly believed in his grace. that guarded it. Medea and Jason fled
then to Greece where they got mar-
And since that time this Paradise is ried and had two children.
inhabited by Georgians.
The legend features different endings.
Jason and the Golden Fleece. This The most popular and common one
legend or myth characterises different is based on the lore of the Greek
aspects of Georgian culture and is one tragedian Euripides. Medea, suffering
of the prides of Georgians. from destructive jealousy because
her husband left her for Glauke - the
Jason, a Prince of Thessaly, had been daughter of the Corinthian King Creon
challenged by his uncle, Pelia, to travel - killed Glauke and the two sons she
to the land of Colchis, on the Eastern had had with Jason in order to save
shores of the Black Sea in order to her pride and take revenge.
find the Golden Fleece. Jason accompa-
nied by forty-nine Greeks crossed seas The actual city where King Aeetes
and storms thanks to the ship named welcomed Jason and the Argonauts has
“Argo” built especially for that mission. not officially been identified, but a lot
of evidence brings us to the conclusion
Jason and his sailors, known as Ar- that it might be the town of Vani, 40
gonauts, arrived in Western Georgia, km West of Kutaisi or the town of
probably in Poti and sailed into the Sikhagodji between Poti and Kutaisi.
Phaisi River, the actual Rioni. Welcomed These two places, where archaeolo-
by the King Aeetes, Jason was told that gical excavations are currently under
he would get the Golden Fleece if he way, display evidence of settlement as
fulfilled the following tasks: to yoke far back as 3500 BCE.
fire-breathing bulls to a plough, pull
. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 049

Note the word “medicine” derives
from the name Medea.
King Vakhtang and Tbilisi. The crea-

tion of the city of Tbilisi is explained
and described by different legends, but
the one concerning King Vakhtang is
certainly the most important.
King Vakhtang had been hunting the

whole day with his troop on horses
accompanied by their dogs. They
killed some pheasants. The whole day
long, they tried to find those killed
pheasants, but unfortunately because
of the hilly landscape, they could not
managed to discover where these birds
felt down injured or dead.
At the end of the hunting day, King

Vakhtang finally discovered the
pheasants in the warm sulphuric
natural springs and they were perfectly
cooked. King Vakhtang sat down for a
feast during which the magically deli-
cious pheasants were eaten. Because
of that, King Vakhtang declared that the
capital city of his Kingdom would be
created on that very spot and called
Tbilisi, from the Georgian word tbili
which means “warm”.
Since then, Tbilisi has been the capital

city of Georgia, built on the sulphuric
springs which can still be visited in the
old downtown.

Guest and God
Georgians are famous all around the is not common and it is even harsher
world for their sense of hospitality. when you are a foreigner. In some
Newcomers might be surprised or specific cases it might be taken as rude
feel awkward about how Georgians when e.g. refusing to drink for a special
take fully care of their guests. Hence, toast during a dinner. Georgians usually
hospitality is very different here from organise everything for their guests so
Western cultures. The symbol of this that they can relax and do not need to
hospitality, the “Mother of Georgia” is worry about any issue. Therefore they
presenting a bowl and a dagger: a guest often use the saying “don’t worry”,
is treated as a King while Georgians meaning that they are taking care of
will fight to death against an enemy. the coordination of activities and that
the guest does not need to be concer-
A guest is considered to be sent by ned. Guests are not expected to help
God and therefore Georgians treat with house chores, especially if these
him as such. From dawn to dusk food guests are men.
is offered, help provided in any situa-
tion and entertainment where they The Georgian sense of hospitality is
reside. Georgians spend the best they also reflected in their curiosity to-
have and do the best they can for their wards foreigners. Georgians commonly
guest. It happens often that what is ask where a foreigner is from, what he
presented is something that the hosts is doing in Georgia, why he is in Geor-
cannot afford for themselves. However, gia and sometimes even how much he
Georgians enjoy the present moment earns. This attention is pure curiosity.
fully by spending savings and belongings
to honour guests and people they A Georgian dinner, called supra, is
love. Therefore guests should deeply another characteristic expressing
honour what they receive. hospitality. Every meal which gathers
people around a table where cold and
Refusing what is presented or offered warm food and beverages are served

can be considered as a supra. On such any kind of gratitude in form of a toast,
an occasion, the guests are entertai- the agreement of the tamada is needed
ned by the toastmaster, called tamada, - he is the master of the supra.
who announces improvised toasts on
different topics - the present gathe- Another particular characteristic
ring, the family, peace, Georgia, future of Georgian culture is the role of
generations, etc. The toastmaster is spirituality. Georgians display a high
responsible for the recurring cycle level of spirituality, they believe in
of toasts and their themes and he God and mainly do not question his
should make sure that the guests are existence. Therefore, religious conven-
not getting drunk. Some rules do exist tions influence social life deeply - the
concerning the order of the toasts, breakdown of the Soviet Union has
especially for important events like brought a revival of Orthodox tradi-
weddings, christenings, etc. The best tions in Georgia. Even though it is not
tamadas are generally introducing their common for everybody to regularly
toasts with poems and quotes from attend services, many people go to
famous Georgian writings. Each toast church for exceptional events like Eas-
ends with saying “gaumardjos!” During ter, Christmas or Dormition Day. Many
a supra, wine has generally to be drunk Georgians cross themselves three
bolomde meaning in one single gulp by times when going by a religious place,
everyone, with special exceptions for but only a minority fast during holy pe-
women. It is common to drink out of riods. However the life of a Georgian is
horns of different sizes and to empha- cadenced by religious ceremonies from
size that the whole content is drunk birth to death - christenings, weddings
by turning the horn up-side down. The and funerals always take place in an
merikipe, the assistant to the tamada, Orthodox Church. Georgians refer to
pours the wine so that every toast is the Bible and a Priest’s words count a
done with a full glass. Sometimes the lot concerning a plenty of issues.
tamada appoints another person for
alaverdi; this person is then responsible One of the first questions a Georgian
for elaborating the tamada’s toasts. might ask a foreigner is if he believes in
God. Georgians are generally surprised
Georgians commonly toast in honour or disappointed to hear that the fo-
of their guests. In that case, the guests reigner is an atheist while every other
should gently thank the tamada and Christian religion seems fine to them
the people who are adding comments. – at least the person believes in God.
To reply to such a toast or to express No matter whether the foreigner is an

atheist or not, Georgians will always
take a foreign guest to one of the
famous churches or monasteries.

Taste of Georgia
As described in the former chapter, long table is fully surrounded by the
Georgians are hospitable and guests sitting participants who usually are in
are considered to have been sent by great number. No specific rules exist
God. Guests are getting all the family for the beginning of the dinner. The
can afford, from attention to support, meal is always cadenced by the toasts
through food and beverages - it is brought by the toastmaster, tamada.
highly important for Georgians to
propose a feast with vast quantities of Khachapuri. The most specific
quality food. Georgian dish might be khachapuri
xaWapuri. This kind of flat cheese-pie
Georgian cuisine is diverse and rich. It or bread is eaten at anytime, anywhere:
is the central element of the traditional for a quick lunch, during a supra, for
Georgian feast, called supra sufra. breakfast, etc. Every region possesses
The cuisine features specific regional a variant of it. The regional variation
and familial influences but is generally from Adjara has the shape of a long
very tasty and spicy. Meat has got the piece of bread which offers an egg,
main place on the table but plenty of some butter and cheese on top. The
vegetables, cheese and cereal-based guest should take small pieces of bread
dishes are proposed too. from the sides and moister them in
the egg in the middle. In Samegrelo, the
The Feast. A Georgian feast features pie features cheese on the top as well.
no specific order - usually the cold Similar to khachapuri is lobiani lo-
dishes come first, the warm dishes af- biani which is a pie filled with beans,
ter, but they are all staying on the table common in South Ossetia. In Svaneti
all along. Several hot courses are gene- khachapuri is filled with meat.
rally served. Everyone garnishes their
own plates as they wish. Dishes cover Meat. Khinkali xinkali are very
the table fully and it may even become common and appreciated in Georgia.
hard to find some empty space. The These dumplings are made of a mix

of different meat, generally pork and is a dish of spinach or beetroot with
beef with spices and herbs, cooked walnuts, garlic and pomegranate seeds.
in dough. The final shape looks like Mushrooms soko (soko) are a very
a middle-sized mushroom. They are important component of Georgian
served alone and it is not needed to cuisine. They are cooked in clay pots,
add anything except pepper. Eating with herbs, cheese and spices.
them is a real ceremony: after having
made a hole into the dough, the eater Sauces. Georgian cuisine features a
should drink the juice, and only then lot of different sauces always present
eat the whole khinkali without letting on the table. Different types of tkhemali
drops of juice fall onto the plate. The tyemali exist which are made from
guest should not eat the top of the red or green plums. Both variations
dough, which is not totally cooked, use coriander, garlic and other herbs
and should keep it on the plate for and feature diverse tastes from sour or
it to be possible to count how many sweet to spicy. Then adjika ajika, is a
khinkali someone ate - less than fifteen hot chilli paste that suits grilled meats
per person is considered as improper. perfectly. This paste is based on a mix
In fasting periods or for vegetarians, of spices which has the same name.
Georgian khinkali also exist filled with
mushrooms or potatoes. Cheese and Yoghurt. Georgian
cuisine proposes different kinds of
Other meat dishes mainly include cheese. Cheese has its own role in
kababi qababi, a mix of meats of cooked dishes or can be proposed as a
different origins (lamb, beef, etc.) rolled side dish. Commonly Georgian cheeses
up in lavash bread, and mtsvadi mwvadi, are salty with a strong taste. Megrelian
barbecued meat, also called shashlik. suluguni suluguni can be served
plain or smoked. Matsoni mawoni,
Vegetables. Several vegetarian dishes Georgian yoghurt, is commonly eaten
are also part of the Georgian table. for breakfast on a slide of bread, but is
Cucumber and tomato salad is the also mixed with fresh mint leaves and
main salad served with or without spices. In the same way, kefiri kefiri,
walnuts, green leaves, and green or red liquid yogurt-like fermented milk, is
peppers. Badrijani badrijani is a dish healthy and tasty, especially after abu-
made of walnut and garlic pasta rolled ses of food or alcohol.
up in eggplant slices. Potatoes, cooked
in different ways, also have a place Breads and Cereals. Georgians
on the dinner table. Pkhali fxali eat bread everyday. Bread is flat and

circular or long according to the not be complete without mentioning
regions the baker is from. Called puri the importance of wine in Georgian
puri, it is cooked in a grounded society. Almost every family is produ-
or semi-grounded oven called tone cing a homemade wine from white or
Tone. Corn is also used as a base for red grapes with a specific old techni-
different dishes - e.g. the small mchadi que using grape peels, which requires
mWadi bread or the porridge called patience but enhances the healthy
ghomi Romi. Moreover, specific dishes properties of the produced wine. Due
like kababi are accompanied by very to the archaeological evidences, one
thin and flat bread, like pancakes, called can say that Georgia is one of the first
lavash. countries of the world where wine
was made. Currently more than 500
Sweets. Georgians are delighted by different grapes are cultivated across
chocolate, caramel and walnuts’ cakes the country, making Georgia one of the
that women cook on special occasions countries with the most diverse wines.
like birthdays, Christmas or for special
guests. The main Georgian sweet is Mukuzani mukuzani, Saperavi safe-
called churchkhela CurCxela: some ravi, Kvanchkara xvanWkara - this
walnuts or nuts are lined up on a very last Stalin liked best - are considered
thin cord and covered by white or red as the best red wines, while Tsinandali
grape syrup. Dried, these sweets can winandali is recognised as a great
be found everywhere, in shops and su- white wine. Some sparkling wines do
permarkets, or on vending stalls along also exist: Bagrationi bagrationi,
countryside roads. named after the Royal family, is the
main one. Red, white, sweet, dry, semi-
Beverages. Different types of mineral sweet, Georgia is the paradise for wine
water exist in Georgia: they are mainly tasters and lovers.
salty and sparkling. The most famous
are Borjomi borjomi and Nabe-
ghlavi nabeRlavi. Regarding alcohol,
Georgians are producing a traditional
strong spirit called chacha WaWa.Vodka
is also commonly used. The most
famous Georgian vodka is called Gomi
gomi.
This tour of Georgian cuisine could

Architecture Directory
Architecture Directory aims at giving a Urban Structure. Urban density is
general idea of the state of architec- quite low in Georgia. Cities are spread
ture in Georgia.Visitors in Georgia horizontally, often along a river or a
are encouraged to overcome the first road. Cities habitually feature a main
glance and the current state of the square from where the main avenues
constructions and to consider shapes, are departing from. Along the roads
materials, structures, and mostly the and near bus and train stations, street-
interrelations between inhabitants and markets are common. Single houses
spaces. usually feature their own courtyards
or gardens, useful for growing fruits
By describing different architectonic and vegetables but covering a wider
elements of the country, awareness territory. This space organisation raises
concerning history, culture and influen- a transportation problem, especially in
ces will be enhanced. Dwellings as well the capital, where going from one end
as urban structure are direct sources to the other can take up to two hours,
for feeling, discovering and analysing traffic jams being very common in the
the cultural background of a country. centre of Tbilisi.
Too often, Georgia suffers from nega-
tive stereotypes due to the impact of Housing. Houses differ a lot with the
Soviet architecture on its urban envi- regions, because of the differences in
ronment, whereas multiple influences climate, natural resources and lands-
created a wide diversity of architecture cape. However, still nowadays, regional
- monasteries and fortresses, housing houses are built as much as possible
blocks, single wooden houses, defen- in function of the climate and environ-
sive stone towers, etc. ment. The wind and the sunshine, the
soil, the views, the materials and their
Therefore Architecture Directory offers a characteristics are elements which
short overview on Georgian architec- are taken into consideration for the
ture and its treasures. orientation of the houses and the

construction itself. for this lack of personal living space.
While it is common for Georgians to
Regional houses commonly feature a own their dwellings, rented apartments
ground floor used for keeping tools are usually fully furnished including
and materials or for harbouring ani- cutlery.
mals at night. This functions as insula-
tion for the first floor where the family Finally, because of the diversity of na-
lives. In regions with a humid climate, tural resources and climates, Georgian
like in Western Georgia, houses are houses are built from very different ty-
very often built on pillars not higher pes of materials. In Tbilisi, the old cen-
than one meter allowing good ventila- tre features great examples of wooden
tion under the house. In the same way or brick houses, while most of the
the veranda on the first floor, running constructions of the last century or
the whole length of the house, is used today are made of concrete. Facades
as an entrance area and as a social of new buildings are mostly covered
place where children play and adults by different types of plasters. It is rare
spend their time. to see some other materials used on
facade like for example wood which
Inside dwellings differ from region to is becoming popular only in high-stan-
region but some essential similarities dard housing in the capital or on the
can be observed. Most of the houses Black Sea coast. Metallic structures are
do not feature any small-sized rooms very rarely employed in the capital but
- generally all rooms are of similar are common for the balconies of single
size even if they have different uses. houses in the regions where metallic
Spatial functions are interchangeable. A sheets are also used for roofs.
specific room does not correspond to
a particular use but can host different Exceptional Sites. Georgia offers a
activities. During the day a room can high number of sites with historical
be used as a living room, while during and architectural value. The several
the night it is transformed into a slee- places below hold a particular impor-
ping space. It is rare for a person to tance to understand the way of living
have his or her own room, several peo- of Georgians through history.
ple stay in one room. The lack of space
in an apartment, the high differences First, Georgia features several cave
among incomes, the prices of flats or towns. These cities, situated inside
rental costs as well as family structures rocks, used to host thousands of in-
are probably four of the several factors habitants. The most famous cave town

in Georgia, which is considered as a potential for architectural, historical
national pride, is Vardzia, situated in and religious tourism. Page 016 is
South Georgia. This cave town hosted presenting a picture of the Gergeti Tri-
Queen Tamar during the 12th century nity Church, one of the most famous
and accommodated about 50,000 peo- monasteries in Georgia because of its
ple. Moreover, David Gareji’s cave town exceptional location at an altitude of
in the East of the country features very 2,400m, facing the 5,047m high Mount
well preserved frescos back from the Kazbeg.
10th century while Uplistsikhe cave
town near Gori features visible supply Another site of exception is the
installations - see picture on page 104. old centre of Tbilisi which is signi-
ficant because of its structure and
Likewise, few regions in Georgia fea- its constructions. The earthquake of
ture some defensive medieval towers: 2002 damaged a lot of constructions,
Svaneti, Tusheti, Racha. These towers, especially those situated on fragile
which were built with plaster made of bases or instable soil. Since 2010 major
egg whites and yolks, were intended to renovation works were undertaken
host the whole family in case of inva- and today most of the historical centre
sions, hide personal treasures and be a retrieved its former character. There,
defence against enemies. Built from the different religious buildings, a mosque,
9th to the 12th century, only the towers a synagogue, an Orthodox church
of the Upper Svaneti region are listed and an Armenian church, are situated
under the UNESCO World Heritage next to each other, demonstrating the
List - see picture on page 126 - but all tolerance and multiculturalism of the
of them are built in the breathtaking city. Tbilisi, which was situated on the
landscapes at the feet of the Greater Silk Road, underwent many influences,
Caucasus Mountain Range. and that is visible in its old centre: po-
sitioned along twisting streets, homes
Georgia possesses hundreds and hun- feature wooden balconies and loggias,
dreds of places dedicated to spirituality hidden courtyards and crafted doors.
- monasteries, churches, cathedrals, etc. Styles and proportions of facades
Very often quite well preserved and are of a great quality of conception
still functioning as such, religious places and execution. Dwellings are mostly
can be found in large numbers in the organised around a courtyard where
capital and in the regions. Evidently social exchanges can take place all day;
with this rich heritage, surrounded by in the same way apartments feature
beautiful nature, Georgia has a great common balconies - as shown page

138 - encouraging informal contacts balconies were closed up to create an
with neighbours. additional room. The potential of these
towers and blocks is unfortunately too
Georgia, furthermore, offers plenty of often underestimated. The concrete
castles, fortresses and fortified cities of structure provides possibilities for the
significant interest. These are present redistribution of inside living space by
all across the country and differ in moving or adding walls thus creating
their accessibility, recognition, and cur- more diversity in the size and orga-
rent state - from ruins to brand newly nisation of apartments. On page 072
renovated. In Tbilisi, Gori or Telavi, such the picture of two towers constructed
fortifications are present. during the Soviet era situated on a hill
offer a panoramic view of Tbilisi.
Soviet Architecture. Georgia, by
having been part of the Soviet Union Moreover, Georgia has a great number
for several decades, has been affected of exceptional buildings, which were
by deep changes in its urbanisation and built during the Soviet era: the best
housing. Connected with the socialist known of them are the governmental
ideology, most of Soviet constructions buildings - the former Parliament, the
do not feature any ornaments on current Post Office, or the former
facades; others clearly exhibit their Constitutional Court, etc. The building
structure on their facades - e.g. the presented on page 106 is located on
inside stairs of a building give the shape a sloped area along the river Mtkvari.
and proportions of the facades. and currently hosts the offices of the
Bank of Georgia. The composition of
During Soviet times, due to the parallelepipedic blocks assembled to-
urgent need for cheap living quarters, gether at right angle was granted some
blocks and towers were built in every award for its spectacular architecture.
middle-sized town and in the capital,
intending to give every family living In the same way, Georgia features an
places with the same size or, at least, industrial heritage from the Soviet era.
a similar value. Surrounded by green Factories and industrial buildings are
areas, this type of building frequently generally simple parallelepipedic blocks
features balconies and in some cases of huge scale, which do not feature
on two different sides, allowing natural any particular qualities, but which are
light inside apartments. Because of the potential and admirable structures for
lack of financial resources and living office purposes, for example. Never-
space, it is common to observe that theless, in some specific places, huge

constructions can be found which fea-
ture interesting architectural elements
with original shapes and proportions
or ornaments. Often abandoned, they
possess an exceptional potential for
renovation and would be perfect pla-
ces to harbour regional youth centres,
exhibition halls or youth hostels.
A Run to Modernisation. Urban

areas are currently evolving very fast.
New constructions are appearing eve-
ryday everywhere. Mostly in the shape
of skyscrapers or tower blocks of flats
or offices, these new constructions
create new skylines, particularly for
Tbilisi and Batumi.

Personalities
Georgians are very proud of their a guest with the New York City Ballet.
famous personalities and they surely She was allowed to perform outside
should. In order to understand Geor- the Soviet Union due to the opening
gian culture and nation, it is impossible policy of Mikhail Gorbachev.
not to look at their renowned people.
Plenty of Georgians became famous Davit Aghmashenebeli daviT
across the country, in the Soviet Union aRmaSenebeli (1073 - 1125). Davit
or the whole world - getting to know IV, called The Builder belonged to the
the actions they undertook and what Bagrationi Dynasty and was King of
they brought to the world is a great Georgia from 1089 to 1125. He is
start to understand the Georgian considered to be the most success-
psyche. ful Georgian King because he united
Georgia by liberating it from Turkish
The following personalities are known occupation. His historic victory in the
and some admired among Georgians battle of Didgori in 1121 - he defeated
because of their political, religious with 56,000 Georgian soldiers a much
and/or artistic legacies. bigger Seljuq Turkish army - opened
the way to liberate Tbilisi. Afterwards
a he appointed Tbilisi as the new capital

of Georgia. In his multiethnic Kingdom,
Nino Ananiashvili nino ananiaS- religious freedom and tolerance were
vili (1963 - ...). A Georgian balle- introduced.
rina, she graduated from the Moscow
Choreographic Institute in 1981. She
then entered the Bolshoi Ballet and
b
was promoted to the rank of soloist in Lavrentiy Pavlovich Beria la-
1983. In 1988 she was the first ballet vrenti beria (1899 - 1953). A
dancer from the Soviet Union, to- Soviet politician who was the head of
gether with Andris Liepa, to perform as the People’s Commissariat for Internal

Affairs from 1938 to 1946, the secret died in unclear circumstances in a vil-
police of the Soviet Union during the lage located in the region of Samegrelo.
Stalinist era. Besides being responsible
for the repression of the Georgian Lado Gudiashvili lado gudiaS-
nationalist uprising in 1924 when up to vili (1896 - 1980). Gudiashvili is
10,000 people were executed, he was one of the most famous Georgian
also involved in the Great Purge in the painter. His work, mainly inspired by
late 1930’s and played a leading role in ballets, operas and theatre plays, was
supervising the Soviet atomic bomb clearly influenced by the work of his
project. fellow painter Pirosmani. After a stay
in Paris, where he met artists like
g Modigliani, he returned to his native

land and belonged for a while to the
Nona Gaprindashvili nona ga- Georgian poetry group named “The
frindaSvili (1941 - ...). A famous Blue Horns”. His work includes mainly
Georgian chess player, who was the paintings, but also some ink drawings,
first woman to be awarded the title of book illustrations, and settings for
Grandmaster. She became at the age of theatre plays and the cinema.
21 the women’s world chess champion
and defended her title until 1978. She i
was one of the strongest female chess Bidzina Ivanishvili biZina iva-
players of her generation and she niSvili (1956 - ...). The current
was awarded the Grandmaster title Georgian prime Minister since
following her impressive performance October 2012 who leads the coalition
in 1978. Georgian Dream which won the par-
liamentary elections against Saakas-
Zviad Gamsakhurdia zviad hvili’s United National Movement. The
gamsaxurdia (1939 - 1993). As the Forbes Magazine ranks him among the
first democratically elected President richest individuals in the world.
of independent Georgia, Gamsakhurdia
stayed in office from April 1991 to
January 1992. From December 1991 to
k
January 1992 heavy fighting took place Kakhaber Kaladze kaxaber ka-
in Tbilisi which ended with a coup laZe (1978 - ...). A famous Georgian
d’état. Gamsakhurdia escaped from the football player, who started his career
country and was de facto replaced by in Dinamo Tbilisi Football Club and
its opponent Eduard Shevardnadze. He moved then in 1998 to Dinamo Kyiv.

He got in 2001 a contract as a defen-
der in AC Milan. Within this team, he s
has been the first and only Georgian
Mikheil Saakashvili mixeil saa-
player who won the title of the Cham-
kaSvili (1967 - ...). The present
pions League. Since 2012 he is Minister
President of the Republic of Georgia
for Energy in the new government.
was elected after the bloodless Rose
Revolution in 2003. He replaced
n Eduard Shevardnadze, the former
president. He was re-elected on the
Saint Nino wm. nino. She is the Saint
January 5, 2008 in the first election
who converted Georgians from Paga-
round. Mikheil Saakashvili is married to
nism to Christianity in the 4th century.
a Dutch linguist and writer, Sandra E.
Georgia is the second country that
Roelofs.
officially adopted the Christian faith in
335. The legend said that she used to
live and pray at the place where the T
present Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in
Queen Tamar Tamar mefe (1160
Mtskheta stands.
– 1213). The Queen of the Kingdom
of Georgia during the Golden Age (r.
r 1184 - 1212), she belonged to the Ba-
grationi Dynasty. She is considered as
Shota Rustaveli SoTa rusTa-
the best monarch ever in Georgia. Her
veli. The main Georgian literature
subjects named her “King of Kings and
figure of the 12th century, Rustaveli
Queen of Queens”. During her reign,
wrote the classic The Knight in the Pan-
significant advancements have been
ther’s Skin vefxistyaosani (vepkhis-
done concerning politics, secularity,
txaosani) during Queen Tamar’s reign.
literature, architecture, etc. A legend
One of the most famous quote from
says that she was buried in Gelati
this epic poem might be “rasaca
Monastery near Kutaisi.
gascem Senia, rac ara - dakar-
gulia” (rasatsa gastsem chenia, rats
ara - dakargulia) which means “that t
which we give makes us richer, that
Galaktion Tabidze galaktion
which is hoarded is lost.” (Translation
tabiZe (1891 - 1959). Mostly known
by Venera Urushadze) – a quote which
under his single name Galaktioni, he
truly illustrates Georgian culture.
is the most famous Georgian poet in

the 20th century. He deeply influenced folksongs and creating the Georgian
Georgian poetry and literature with his Philharmonic Society. He was the di-
thousands of writings and poems. One rector of the Tbilisi Conservatory. The
of the most famous might be The wind most famous of his compositions are
blows qari qris (kari khris). Under Abesalom and Eteri, Daisi and Latavra.
heavy pressure from Soviet authorities,
Galaktioni felt into depression and Vazha Pshavela vaJa fSavela
alcoholism and committed suicide in (1861 - 1915). Pshavela is the pen-
1959. name of the poet and writer Luka P.
Razikashvili. Translated in more than
f 20 languages around the world, he is

considered as a classic of Georgian
Pharnavaz I farnavazi I. He is literature. He was involved in the
known as the father of the medieval National-Liberation movement of
version of the Georgian alphabet. He Georgia.
was also the first King of Iberia. He
probably reigned in the 3rd century
BCE.
S
Eduard Shevardnadze eduard
Niko Pirosmanashvili niko SevardnaZe (1928 - ...). Shevardnadze
firosmanaSvili (1862 – 1918). was the second President of Georgia
Commonly known under the name from 1991 to 1995 de facto - following
of Niko Pirosmani, he was a Georgian the coup d’état - and from 1995 to
fresco painter. His quasi-naïf paintings 2003 officially. He resigned following
represented Georgian daily life and the Rose Revolution of 2003. Before
culture but never religious themes getting into office, he used to work in
which were more common in that Mikhail Gorbachev’s government as the
period. His talent was recognised only Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Soviet
after his death. Union.
Zakaria Paliashvili zaqaria

faliaSvili (1871 - 1933). The
W
Georgian composer studied composi- Ilia Chavchavadze ilia Wa-
tion at the Moscow Conservatory, and vWavaZe (1837 - 1907). A Georgian
returned back to Georgia where he writer, poet, journalist and lawyer, and
played an important role in the develo- considered as one of the fathers of
pment of national music by collecting modern Georgia. He fought to increase

Georgian national awareness by defen- of the Union from 1922 until his death.
ding the Georgian language and culture. His chosen name “Stalin” came from
His writing career was dedicated to Russian and basically means “Man of
Georgian culture. He was shot to Steel”.
death near Mtskheta in 1907.
w
Akaki Tsereteli akaki wereTeli
(1840 - 1915). A prominent Georgian
writer and poet, he is considered as
one of the fathers of modern Georgia
together with his friend and colleague
Ilia Chavchavadze. He was involved in
the Georgian national movement.
Zurab Tsereteli zurab were-

Teli (1934 - ...). Graduated from the
Academy of Arts in Tbilisi, Tsereteli
is known for his works as architect,
sculptor and painter. Currently the
President of the Russian Academy of
Arts, he realised the sculpture of Peter
the Great - which is about 90m high
- on the Moskva riverbank in Moscow
and the Tear of Grief, a sculpture dedi-
cated to the victims of 9/11.
j
Ioseb Besarionis Dze Jughashvili
ioseb besarionis Ze juRaS-
vili (1878 - 1953). He was famous
under the name of Joseph Stalin. Born
in Gori in 1878 (officially 1879), he was
the head of the Bolshevik party of the
Soviet Union and the de facto leader

Inspirations
Inspirations is dedicated to give some Every Tuesday and Friday, shows are
indications for delving into Georgian presented at the Pantomime Theatre. A
culture. The following places and group of young people, in a very frien-
events are recommended to those of dly ambiance, perform different Panto-
you who desire to get to know the mime plays, mostly under the direction
country and understand its culture and of Amiran Shalikashvili. Probably due to
people. What’s more, a few activities budget restrictions, the facilities of the
which will increase the social interac- theatre are of low-quality, but it does
tions between foreigners and locals definitely not affect the quality of the
are proposed - e.g. board games or plays and actors. The entrance fee is
traditional dances and singing. 5 GEL and it is generally not needed
to book in advance. Rustaveli Ave. #37
These tips for cultural inspiration are rusTavelis gam. 37
not a list of places of entertainment -
e.g. it does not contain the most com- Directed by the famous stage director
mon gathering places for foreigners R. Sturua, the Rustaveli Theatre shows
- but should be taken as an orientation Georgian and foreign plays almost
for further personal cultural discove- every evening at 7.45. Plays are usually
ries. in the Georgian language but on some
specific dates a simultaneous English
Plays and Shows. In all main cities in translation is proposed by the British
Georgia there is at least one theatre Council. A ticket costs between 6 and
proposing regular plays. Below per- 12 GEL, depending on the seat. English
forming places in Tbilisi are presented translation is available for an additional
which are of relevant interest for fee. Rustaveli Ave. #17 rusTavelis
foreigners to learn more about Geor- gam. 17
gian culture and art and which are
linguistically accessible. The Tbilisi State Opera and Ballet
Theatre, which has been recently

renovated, is proposing ballets and tion. The Museum which occupies 52
operas almost every day. Tickets cost hectares of the hill top west to Turtle
between 5 and 20 GEL, depending on Lake, called Kus Tba in Georgian, was
the seats, and are to be bought during founded in 1966 by the ethnographer
daytime office hours in the ticket office Giorgi Chitaia. It can be reached on
on the right side of the main entrance. foot from Chavchavadze Ave., or by
Ballet performances do not require any cable car available in front of Vake Park,
linguistic skills but operas are generally or by taxi.
presented in the Georgian language wi-
thout subtitles or translations. Rustaveli At the end of July, the Museum hosts
Ave. #25 rusTavelis gam. 25 the Art Gene Festival. In the daytime
Georgian dances, folksongs and tra-
The Tbilisi State Concert Hall, com- ditional fighting performances are on
monly known as philharmonia, is the show. Groups from different regions
biggest Music Hall in Tbilisi. It is located and villages are competing. In the
right in the city centre up Rustaveli evening, concerts of famous Georgian
Avenue. The Tbilisi State Concert Hall singers perform while Georgians are
is a great place to see traditional gathering, singing, around barbecues,
Georgian dancing and various concerts. drinking home-made wine in a very
What’s more, every year it hosts a Jazz friendly atmosphere. More information
Festival. The ticket range from 30 to about the festival on www.artgeni.ge.
200 or more GEL. Open Air Museum of Ethnography, on
the way to Turtle Lake kus tba (Kus
Open Air Museum of Ethnogra- Tba)
phy. The Open Air Museum presents
a mosaic of traditional architecture Tbilisoba, the Celebration of Tbi-
and folk arts from all around Georgia. lisi. Every city in Georgia has an annual
Every region is represented by some party which lasts one or two days.
instances of their traditional architec- Tbilisi’s is called Tbilisoba and takes
tures, which have been deconstructed place at the end of the third week of
from its original site piece by piece, November. During that Saturday and
then transported and reconstructed in Sunday, it is possible to see some boat
the park of the Museum. The Museum battles and traditional Georgian dan-
features around 70 different buildings cing and singing. A concert is organised
but unfortunately only a few of them on Freedom Square. On that occa-
are open to the public. The other hou- sion all Rustaveli Avenue is closed to
ses are under renovation or construc- vehicles and the ambiance downtown

is really easy-going. “long” and “short” nardi, which differ
mainly in the positions of the stones
Traditional Georgian Dances and at the beginning of the game. Everyone
Singing. When in Georgia, a lot of coming to the Caucasus area will have
volunteers are willing to learn about the opportunity to learn how to play
the local culture and particularly the this game, and it is great for socialising
dancing and singing traditions. Unfortu- and getting to know locals of all ages.
nately it is hard to find a place where
beginners are accepted, because most Sulphur Baths. After sports or after
of the Georgians get their skills when a cold long winter day, relaxing in the
they are kids in family gatherings. sulphuric baths downtown is definitely
great. Different places are accessible,
However, with other interested forei- the same Alexandre Dumas or other
gners, it is possible to ask a teacher for writers delved into hundreds of years
group dancing lessons or to form an ago. Renting a small room with a bath
informal singing group. In some specific for one hour costs between 30 and
cases, it is also possible to be present 100 GEL - depending on the place and
at the rehearsals of singing groups and size of the room. Having a scrubbing
thereby to learn step-by-step the lyrics energetic massage costs about 10 GEL.
and melodies. It is as well possible to go to the public
room were a bigger bath is available
Board Games. Playing chess is part for the cheaper 2 GEL admittance
of Georgian socialising. When living in price. Going to the sulphur baths can
Georgia, some foreigners might want definitely be seen as a cultural expe-
to join the Georgian chess community. rience. Abano Str. abanos q.
The World Chess Federation FIDE
has a listing of all Chess Clubs existing Grape Harvest rTveli (Rtveli). In
around the world on www.fide.com a wine country like Georgia, the grape
harvest is of course a cultural event
Like chess, Backgammon, called nardi in of particular importance. Rtveli usually
Georgian, is very common and popular. takes place in September in the wine
The game itself can be traced back to regions, particularly in the Kakheti
a circa 5,000 year old Iranian game. In region, and involves the entire family.
Georgia, people are playing nardi eve- Young children and grandparents stay
rywhere - at home or in streets - and at home the whole day to prepare
everybody seems to know how to play. food while the other members of the
Two main variations exist: a so called family and friends are working in the

vineyard from dawn to dusk. As a forei-
gner, it is worth going with Georgian
friends to their vineyard and helping
to pick up grapes. Seeing the produc-
tion process of home made wine is
of particular interest. The supra at the
end of the day helps to forget the hard
working day and offers time to enjoy
Georgian wine and traditional songs
and poems.

“I never expected all the changes which took place in the way I perceived the world. I
thought the European Voluntary Service would be a great experience but I never expec-
ted something like this to happen in my life. I can say I will never be the same as before.
Both at the professional and personal levels, I developed a knowledge and an awareness
of myself that I had never even dreamed of before.
Georgian culture is extremely exacting and rich. It gives so much that I just feel like giving
as much as I can too. My daily experience gave me to feel a life not based on the future
like in most of our Western countries, but on the present.The relation Georgians entertain
with God and other beliefs caused in me a totally unexpected deep change: I do not
believe anymore. And this alone changed all perspectives I had on life in general and on
my own in particular.
I recommend going to Georgia to everyone, because life here is rich and intense. I finally
experienced the life I always wanted to have: a life of wonderment, a life of pleasurable
work and interpersonal relations. I don’t have to wait for tomorrow to be happy anymore:
Georgia proved me that I should begin with being happy today...”
Dwelling Towers in Nutsubidze’s District,Tbilisi

073
Day-To-Day Toil
Day-to-Day Toil provides useful information and advice about living in Georgia to
assist volunteers in organising and enjoying their daily life. Therefore, it contains
a section Practical Tips about things like shopping, communication, leisure and free
time activities and using public transportation.
It is relevant to be aware of practical daily issues in any country. Knowing how to

find a plumber, which bus to take or simply where to buy a specific product, helps to
feel comfortable in a new living environment. Consequently, this chapter shall give
volunteers a sense of orientation needed in the reality of Georgia which seems to
be chaotic and confusing at the beginning but which possesses a logic of its own.
Electrical Installation in Vera’s District,Tbilisi

075
Practical Tips
Every country is characterised by a sli- remains the city where most foreign
ghtly different organisation of daily life Embassies and Consulates are situated.
arrangements. Georgia is no exception For safety reasons, the ministries
as for that. This chapter therefore proof foreign affairs of every country
vides practical information concerning recommend expatriates to register at
staying in Georgia in order to make their embassy. Each embassy provides
the newcomer’s daily tasks easier. advice and recommendations in case of
an emergency and takes care of their
You will find below the general citizens, for example, if repatriation is
information every volunteer should needed. The contact data of embas-
know before going to Georgia: the sies and consulates are listed on the
immigration policy, insurance coverage, website of the Georgian Ministry of
etc. It also contains some explanations Foreign Affairs at www.mfa.gov.ge
on practical arrangements that can be
helpful for your daily life in Georgia. Personal Safety. Georgia is a safe
country to live in. In the capital as
Immigration Policy. Entering the well as in the regions, Georgians are
Republic of Georgia by crossing a land hospitable and ready to help any time.
border or by landing at an airport is Nevertheless incidents can happen and
easy and safe. European Union citizens a few recommendations will be given
can stay without a visa up to 360 days, here. Intermeddling in a fight between
independently of the reasons of stay. If Georgians should be avoided. Going to
not a European Union citizen, please remote areas or crossing land borders
approach a Georgian embassy near alone especially by night should be,
your home to get more information if possible, avoided. Some female
about visa application detail. volunteers encountered some minor
incidents in such situations. Moreover
Foreign Representation in Geor- it is always recommended to avoid
gia. In Southern Caucasus, Tbilisi high-risk situations - mass-protest
076 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

demonstrations, very old cable-cars, to be aware of what is insured and
not wearing seat belts, etc.Volunteers what is not. In Georgia, if any medical
should also remember that any injuries treatment is needed, it is necessary
contracted when taking part in a to indicate the doctor’s name, the
demonstration are not covered by the treatment, the cost and the volunteer’s
EVS insurance. name on the bill in English or Russian
for reimbursement. The bill has then
Furthermore, volunteers are often to be sent to MSH International/ AXA
interested in the two conflict regions Insurance at the address noted below.
of Georgia - Abkhazia and South Os- To prevent postal loss it is advised to
setia. It is here reminded that both are have the originals of all documents co-
conflict regions, meaning that they are pied before sending them. In case of an
unsafe for foreigners. Firstly embassies emergency or any serious treatment,
have no influence on situations their the insurance should be contacted
citizens might encounter there, and as soon as possible. The insurance
secondly European volunteers are company might appoint one of their
not insured when travelling in these doctors to check the volunteer’s
territories. medical state and organise repatriation
if necessary. In case of some expensive
Emergency Numbers. In case of planned treatment, the insurance might
an emergency, the following phone pre-pay the costs.
numbers might be useful. Be aware
some explanation about the concer- MSH International, 18 rue de Courcel-
ned situation has to be given either in les, 75384 Paris Cedex 08, France
Georgian or in Russian.Volunteers can Phone: +33.(0)1.44.20.82.10
also safely approach any police officer indiveurope@msh-intl.com
in the street if they need help. Police
officers are helping foreigners very Energy and Water Supply Infras-
efficiently. tructures. The situation in Georgia
. Fire Station: 111 concerning water, gas or electricity
. Police: 122 has definitely improved a lot over
. Ambulance and 24/24 Emergency: 113 recent years. In villages and small cities,
delivery might be irregular. In Tbilisi
Insurance. Every European Volunteer there is generally no shortage in gas
is totally covered by EVS insurance and electricity, while water shortage
coverage (European Benefits). It is depends on the districts. If there is a
recommended to check contract detail water cut-off or a power failure people
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 077

are prepared: some water is always tions or wireless stationed home
kept in barrels or candles are kept at telephone connections in Georgia:
hand to be set up on tables, etc. Silknet and Magti. With Magti the
installation of a landline costs 35 GEL
In offices to avoid any loss of data for the offer Magti Fix. The monthly
due to power failure, each computer costs vary between 3 to 10 GEL de-
is equipped with a back-up system. pending on the amount of free minutes
This system has a battery and is saving the user wants to have to connect to
enough energy to give the worker a other Magti costumers. For calls to
few minutes to save his work and turn other operators – mobile and landline
off the computer after the shortage. – costs occur per minute.
Silknet offers a similar scheme with
Volunteers may either live in Tbilisi in installation costs of 40 GEL for a tele-
a district only occasionally suffering phone landline and 39 to 49 GEL for a
from cut-offs or in the countryside in wireless home station.
a family which is used to facing such
situations. In both cases it is impro- An internet connection at home is
bable volunteers will encounter many easily and rapidly installed. The quality
problems concerning energy and water of the internet connection varies from
delivery. place to place. An internet company
should be able to tell you if the district
Phone Calls and the Internet. The you are concerned about is part of
use of cell-phones is quite easy: by their coverage. The main operators are
signing a contract and giving a local Silknet and Caucasus Online for cable
home address, one can acquire a SIM connections and GeoCell and Magti for
Card which is usually free of charge. mobile internet. Opening a line costs
Some operators may propose you between 15 and 50 GEL depending on
a pre-paid system: Geocell, Magti, the operator and type of connection.
Beeline, etc. They more or less charge Available type of connections are DSL
the same price. Sending an SMS to a via an optical cable and mobile inter-
Georgian or foreign cell-phone costs net. The price of an internet connec-
about the same - between 6 and 12 tion starts from 20 GEL a month.
Tetri - and calling is very cheap in Moreover, plenty of Internet cafés are
comparison with prices in Western available in Tbilisi itself but also in small
European countries. cities for a few GEL an hour and some
bars provide free Wi-Fi connection.
Two operators offer landline connec- Unfortunately, most computers in
078 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

Internet cafés are often infected with Getting and Sending Post. All post
viruses. Hence, very good regularly offices feature national and interna-
upgraded anti-virus protection and tional services and they are located
anti-spam software are needed if any in each district. Some of them also
kind of digital data is frequently shared provide phone, fax or internet services.
with others via flash disks. Davit Aghmashenebeli #44 Post Office
is considered to be number 1 Post
Shopping. Shopping in Georgia differs Office. It should be possible to send
quite a lot from what it is in Western parcels abroad from every post office
countries. While it is common in but it might happen that the customer
Europe to shop in cheap big super- is re-directed to the main post office
market chains, in Georgia local market in Aghmashenebeli #44 . If a notification
places are the best option to get not for a letter or parcel is received the
only fresh and local but well priced volunteer should go to Aghmashenebeli
products. Any attempt to survive with #44. Post Office in order to ask for it:
the EVS monthly food allowance by parcels are kept there. Post delivery
buying products at the Western style from Europe takes about three weeks
Smart or Goodwill or any other super- in both directions, and mails get
market will fail. In Tbilisi shopping on regularly lost. Asking for parcels can
the big market Bazroba near the main become hellish since the needed noti-
railway station is demanding and at fication does not always arrive at the
least two things should be considered: proper address and post offices are
first, the place is very crowded, so it often crowded. The help of a Georgian
takes a lot of time to buy everything friend who knows the system can
in one go and to avoid going there accelerate the process significantly. If a
several times a week; second, to take volunteer is expecting a specific pac-
one’s own scale to check if the weight kage, which seems to be late he or she
of tomatoes, apples or potatoes that can directly go to the post office and
was charged is correct is common. Of ask if they have received anything. The
course, if specific products like yoghurt, parcel might have arrived and nobody
cereals or any specialties from foreign was informed or notified about it. Also
countries are needed, bigger supermar- private postal companies like TNT or
kets like Goodwill or Carrefour should DHL may encounter difficulties in their
be considered. delivery services.
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 079

Medical Care. Before going to be complicated due to the fact that
Georgia, vaccinations against polio, technicians are not listed anywhere
tetanus, diphtheria, hepatitis A and B – such workers are mainly to be found
are recommended while vaccination at Eliava market where they are waiting
against rabies is only advised for those for work proposals.
working with animals or staying in
remote areas for long periods. Laundry. In Georgia most of the
households possess a washing machine
Georgian medical system may look at their home. In case the volunteer
complicated to foreigners. In the case does not have a washing machine at
of a health problem, it might be best home, s/he might have to find other
to contact a close Georgian friend or solutions for washing clothes. The most
colleague who can help to find an ap- common way to do one’s washing in
propriate place for medical treatment. Southern Caucasus is by hand. Some
There are multiple hospitals and clinics laundries where service is commonly
specialised in different fields. Doctors paid per kilo or per item can be found
speak Georgian and Russian, but only in Tbilisi but they may be too expen-
rarely other languages. Embassies pro- sive for volunteers.
vide lists of doctors who speak other
languages, so volunteers are advised to Trash and Recycling. In Georgia,
contact their own embassies to find no trash sorting exists yet. In remote
a doctor speaking their language or areas, compost is commonly used for
English. Bringing basic medications for recycling vegetable rejects but in cities
headaches or for digestive problems, even recycling glass is not common.
or the necessary medicines you need It is frequent to see people throwing
on a regular basis, is anyway recom- trash on the street, while more and
mended. more trash bins can be found particu-
larly in cities. In remote areas, no pro-
Technical Specialists. To get a plum- cessing of trash exists, so it is common
ber, a locksmith, a heating engineer to see open-air unofficial dumps in the
or any other technical specialists, countryside.
volunteers should contact the hosting
organisation or a good Georgian Public Bathrooms. Public
friend. The hosting organisation is res- bathrooms are rare and badly taken
ponsible for your lodging and therefore care of. The facilities themselves as well
they should be informed first. Getting as the cleaning schedules differ a lot as
a professional technician alone can compared to European standards. Most
080 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

public toilets are squat toilets, com-
monly called “alla turca”. These allow
basic hygiene, which is not the case for
sitting toilets. Especially on marshrutka
or train trips, it is always advisable to
“plan” your visit to a bathroom.
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 081

Leisure and Free Time
Besides the previous practical tips A few websites are also webcasting up-
volunteers are also interested in to-date information about Georgia:
information about possible free time . Georgia Today www.georgiatoday.ge
activities.You will find recommenda- . UNA-Georgia Online Magazine www.
tions to obtain news or literature in civil.ge
foreign languages and to find sport . The Georgian Times www.geotimes.ge
activities below. . Information concerning Tbilisi www.
info-tbilisi.com
Worldwide News. The Internet is an . Web Portal on Human Rights in
infinite source of information concer- Georgia www.humanrights.ge
ning global politics, the world’s eco- . The Messenger Online www.messenger.
nomy and international cultural events. com.ge
By checking national newspapers’
websites volunteers can stay informed Georgia also has several television
about what is going on in their home channels in Georgian language. With a
countries and around the world. satellite dish it is possible to receive
channels in Russian, Polish, English,
In Tbilisi on 102.9 FM at different times French, etc., and common cable TV fea-
Radio France International and Deuts- tures the BBC and the CNN in English
che Welle broadcast news, debates and besides plenty of Russian channels.
music in their respective languages.
International Bookstores. A few
Some weekly English publications places provide books in English in
which give political news as well as Tbilisi.
artistic information about Georgia
exist: Georgia Today, The Messenger, Prospero’s Books is a combined café-
etc. They are available at newsstands cum-bookstore which offers a great
or in shops and bars where foreigners choice of English books and movies
commonly go. to buy and rent. Situated in a hidden
082 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

courtyard off Rustaveli Avenue, it is a tif) Zandukeli Str. #16 zandukelis
very nice place to grab a coffee and a q. 16
piece of cake and to enjoy some good
reading. Rustaveli Ave. #34 rusTave- Cinemas. Cinemas in Tbilisi and in
lis gam. 34 small cities mainly propose movies in
Russian and sometimes in English with
Literaturi is a friendly place for a coffee Georgian subtitles.
or a brunch combined with an En-
glish-Russian-Georgian library, mostly In Tbilisi, the only cinema that regu-
specialised in literature and poetry. larly shows - every day at 7.00 p.m.
Mainly classics can be found here. It – English movies is the Kolga Cinema
is situated near Tbilisi State Concert House. The programme can be found
Hall at the beginning of Tamanishvili Str., on http://kolga.geoweb.ge . This cinema
TamaniSvilis q. has a very nice ambiance and it is even
possible to suggest some movies. The
Cultural Centres. Different cultural entrance fee is 5 GEL. Kakabadze Str.
centres are located in Tbilisi. They all #2 kakabaZis q. 2
provide well developed libraries with
weekly and monthly newspapers and Sports. A lot of possibilities exist as
magazines, books on diverse topics, for sport in the country, especially
DVDs or VHS tapes of films. Cultural outdoor activities.
centres are generally proposing all level
language courses and they organise Speed walking, walking, running can be
cultural events like lectures, conferen- practised everywhere in the countrysi-
ces, festivals, concerts, or exhibitions de or cities. For specific hiking
related to their respective countries. excursions, it is important to rely on
Registration is easy but the fees differ professional guides. If hosted in Tbilisi, a
from one centre to another. The three volunteer can take part in the biweekly
main cultural centres are stated below. excursions with the club called “Tbilisi
. British Council (www.britishcouncil. Hash House Harriers”. The group goes
org/ge.htm) Rustaveli Ave. #34, rusTa- to the countryside and follows specific
velis gam. 34 itineraries with group rituals along the
. Centre Culturel Français Alexandre way which bring easygoing and friendly
Dumas (www.ccf.tbilissi.caucasus.net) mirth. More information on http://tbili-
Gudiashvili Str. #7 and #10 gudiaSvi- sih3.com
lis q. 7 da 10
. Goethe Institut (www.goethe.de/ins/ge/ For winter sports Georgia is well
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 083

equipped. The two main ski resorts pools, but the only one within a vo-
are Bakuriani and Gudauri. Bakuriani lunteer’s budget is Laguna Vere laguna
is more family-oriented than Gudauri. vere. It was renovated and reopened
However both resorts have good recently with new opening hours. The
skiing infrastructures, developed single entrance fee is 15 GEL while a
lodging facilities and equipment renting ticket for 12 entrances cost150 GEL.
shops. Going to Bakuriani or Gudauri Laguna Vere is situated on Kostava str.
by marshrutka lasts at least two hours. #34, kostavas q. 34. The entrance is
The budget per day should be at least at the back of the building.
150 GEL for accommodation, ski ren-
tals, cable cars and food.
Two Football stadiums exist in Tbilisi.

The national stadium on Chavchavadze
Ave. #2, WavWavaZis q. 2, hosts games
between national teams, or friendly
matches between international teams.
The clearly more impressive stadium,
called Dinamo Stadium, is located
next to the Central Railway Station
and is mainly used for international
venues. It is worth going at least once
to appreciate the ambiance, because
Georgians are highly motivated when
supporting their teams and being in the
public is very entertaining. Further-
more, you can play soccer with a group
of friends almost everywhere - small
football fields are common and can be
used free of charge. During the winter,
renting a covered football field costs
about 40 GEL an hour. At Turtle Lake
renting a small open-air football field
costs 45 GEL for 90 min, near the
Dinamo Stadium 30 GEL for 90 min.
Tbilisi also counts several swimming
084 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

Travelling
Transportation in Georgia, inside ring a trip outside the capital, checking
Tbilisi or outside, seems to be at first beforehand from where the transpor-
glance unorganised and chaotic. In fact, tation is leaving is always a gain of time,
a variety of means of transportation or at least no waste of it.
exist and after a while one can see the . Railway Station vagzlis moedani
system is working quite well. There (Vagzlis Moedani). Day and night trains
may be no official schedule, but it is can be found going to main cities in
regular. Georgia, to Armenia and Azerbaijan
and mini-buses to main cities in Geor-
The most important aspect to gia. There are also day trains and buses
consider when travelling on Georgian available going to the Airport. This
roads is the driving style. Car and station is interconnected to the Metro.
even mini-bus drivers display a specific . Didube didube: Mini-buses and bu-
driving attitude that commonly leads ses to all main cities in Western Geor-
to overtaking in dangerous places like gia are leaving from this station which
in bends, driving on the wrong side of is interconnected to Tbilisi’s Metro.
the road, slaloming between cars and . Samgori samgori: Mini-buses and
most of all using their horns at every buses leave from this station mainly
single junction.Volunteers, used to the to the Eastern part of Georgia and to
calm European driving style, are usually Azerbaijan. This station is interconnec-
surprised, if not shocked or scared, but ted to Tbilisi’s Metro.
they get used to it quite rapidly. . Ortachala orTaWala: Mini-buses
and buses to Armenia, Azerbaijan and
Stations. In general, every Georgian Turkey are leaving from this station.
city possesses a main bus station. Main
cities possess as well a train station. In Inter-City Mini-Buses and Buses.
Tbilisi, different stations are appointed Mini-buses (commonly called marshru-
for different destinations and different tka from its Russian name) and buses
means of transportation. When prepa- are linking almost all cities in Georgia.
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 085

Drivers are waiting for passengers trouble.
at the station and commonly leave
when the vehicle is full - buses usually Flying to and from Georgia. The
feature time schedules.You can cross main airport is situated at a 30 minute
the country for up to 20 GEL. A trip car-ride distance from Tbilisi down-
between Batumi and Tbilisi costs 20 town centre. A few travel companies
GEL and between Tbilisi and Bakuriani propose flights mainly to European and
10 GEL. The prices are less expensive Middle-East countries. It is possible to
when travelling by bus,The driver is reach it by taxi for a minimum of 15
going from station to station but com- GEL or in the daytime by train or bus
monly passengers stop the marshrutka from the Railway Station. From the
or bus at any place. airport to the city a taxi costs 25 GEL.
Smaller airports are situated in Batumi
Trains. Trains are crossing the whole and Kutaisi. Flights to Turkey, Poland or
country from the Azerbaijani border Ukraine are scheduled there.
to Batumi and from the Armenian
border to Zugdidi. All lines go through Tbilisi Metro. In Tbilisi itself, two
Tbilisi. A trip from Tbilisi to Batumi by underground lines are meeting at the
night lasts around 8 hours while the Central Railway Station. One trip costs
day train arrives in less than 6 hours. 50 Tetri (price in 2013). The stations
A ticket costs between 18 and 40 GEL, and directions are indicated in Geor-
depending on the travelling class. There gian and English almost in every station.
are three classes: Since the introduction of an electronic
. Platskartny (3rd class): collective sleeper ticketing system in the public transpor-
with 54 beds per coach tation system, every passenger has to
. Kupé (2nd class): 4-berth compartment pre-pay his travel by charging a plastic
. Spalny Vagon (SV, 1st class): 2-berth card.
compartment
Generally, trains are a very safe means Tbilisi Buses. In Tbilisi, buses are
of transportation and the police is quite slow and crowded but useful to
usually present in trains travelling in go to specific places. Once after ente-
Georgia. However, if you are travelling ring the bus the payment is done by
with friends it is recommended to the electronic plastic card by bringing
take a Kupé compartment together for it in contact with an electronic counter
your own comfort, while when you are located in the bus. The ticket fee of 40
travelling alone Platskartny seems to be Tetri will be automatically deducted.
the best solution in order to avoid any Bus schedules are displayed at almost
086 . . . Day-To-Day Toil . . .

all stations on an electronic display in GEL (price in 2013). Downtown, a 3 to
Georgian and English alphabet. 4 GEL prices is quite normal. It is com-
mon to negotiate the price of a taxi
Tbilisi Mini-Buses. Mini-buses, also ride beforehand not to be surprised
called mashrutka, are used as public about the amount afterwards. Taxis are
transportation across the capital. To go also a good option for going to remote
from one specific point to another, it areas which are not connected to a
may be the fastest option. The direc- public transportation network like the
tions are usually written in Georgian David Gareji monastery, or the Uplist-
on a sign in the windscreen of the sikhe cave town, etc.
mini-bus. This makes it quite complica-
ted for non-Georgian speakers as it is
required to read very fast where the
vehicle goes. Therefore, it is recom-
mended to ask Georgians for the right
line in order not to get lost. To take a
marshrutka along the road people just
stop it with a hand sign. A short but
loudly spoken “gaacheret!” will make
the driver stop and the passengers can
pay and go out. A ride costs generally
50 Tetri. The payment can be done by
the public transportation plastic card
or by cash.
Taxi. In every city in Georgia it is pos-

sible to catch a taxi for a few Lari. Taxis
are very useful to get to unknown
districts, but also at night or in areas
where no buses are available. It might
be useful to make sure that the taxi
driver knows the destination because
it happens sometimes that drivers do
not know the place at all and just drop
off passengers anywhere. For a ride in
Tbilisi between different districts, the
price may be up to no more than 8
. . . Day-To-Day Toil . . . 087

“In a short period of time, my EVS in Georgia changed my life in a lot of ways. Initially, I
just wanted to leave my country for a while - I have been here now for already two years.
I never expected this to happen and I never planned it so, but my European Voluntary
Service here was so full of new impressions, new discoveries and wonderments, that I just
decided to stay.
It is hard for me to point out the most important things that made me stay. It may be
the kindness of the people, the easy-going way of life - just let things be what they are for
a while and enjoy the instant - but it may be too the opportunity to really change things
in my own environment and to see Georgia developing everywhere.
I do not want to say that everything is perfect here. In Georgia a lot of things still drive
me mad and sometimes it goes too far and I want to leave right away and forget all the
disappointments I have experienced here. But if you look for an intense time in your life,
if you want to test your own opinions and if you are ready to challenge yourself daily
with a totally different approach to life, interpersonal relations and work, then I can only
recommend you to discover Georgia and its people.”
Shepherd near Jvari Pass

089
Cultural Struggle
Cultural Struggle provides basics about Intercultural Learning. During his stay in a
foreign country, a volunteer goes through different emotional states of mind which
are here described. Georgian culture is highlighted - cultural particularities are in-
dicated to minimize misunderstandings and problems by raising the awareness of
volunteers.
In order to support the volunteers’ cultural adaptation, this chapter contains a

Cultural Guide for first orientation in the new environment.
Women Selling Fruit near Marneuli

091
In a Foreign Country
During the EVS, volunteers will have Most newcomers are in a state of
to adapt to the local environment great enthusiasm during the first days
and culture. Generally volunteers are and weeks of their volunteering period.
going through different emotional and Newcomers feel surprised and totally
intellectual awareness stages that are amazed. Every single cultural particula-
the same for all volunteers.Volunteers rity seems exceptional. Foreigners feel
may experience the stages described curious and great and have the impres-
below with varying intensity and at sion they could stay there forever. In
slightly different times in their stay. some cases, newcomers even begin to
Some of these stages may also remain behave differently from what they used
beyond the experience of one parti- to - e.g. accept events they would not
cular volunteer. However, being aware have liked. People and colleagues are in
of the adaptation process may help to general very friendly during these first
overcome temporary difficulties. moments, and volunteers feel comfor-
table in the new environment.
First Reactions. In this stage
volunteers are unaware of cultural Totally opposite to this state of
differences which they do not perceive amazement, volunteers may panic
as such and find it difficult to estimate completely on arriving. They have the
the necessary adaptation to the new impression that everything and eve-
culture. The volunteers’ first feeling ryone is dangerous, and are not able to
can be different but generally there overcome that feeling to meet others
are two options: amazement or fear. or to accomplish daily actions on their
Both emotions are much more intense own - e.g. going shopping, taking a
during the first days and slightly lose bus, etc. That reaction - like in some
intensity as weeks pass. During that ways amazement about everything - is
period, volunteers generally do not out of proportion as there generally
understand a lot of things happening is no more threat or danger than at
around them. home. This first shock might be hardly
092 . . . Cultural Struggle . . .

understood by others, especially locals, communication are still problematic
and can even create a gap between the and exacting.Volunteers cannot behave
community and the newcomer, who the same way they would at home
then only wishes to leave. without causing troubles but anyway
refuse to adopt some of the local’s be-
This stage is often emotionally very haviour. On one hand, volunteers know
intense. The newcomer is sensitive and cultural flexibility is required in order
he feels deep emotions for everyone to overcome the current difficulties in
and everything. His reactions and be- their adaptation. But on the other hand
haviour are often driven by emotions they might recognise that they are not
and do not involve much rationality. able or not willing to behave the way
Because of this emotional vulnerability, locals do - that counts particularly for
it is common to observe newcomers sensitive elements like privacy, gender
falling in love. roles, daily rhythms, etc.
Recognition. After spending some Adjustment. After these first mo-

time in the host country - usually in ments, volunteers slowly adapt to the
the 3rd or 4th months - volunteers sud- local culture by understanding better
denly recognise not only that there ac- some specific cultural particularities.
tually are cultural differences, but that They develop their capacities to react
some of them are not easily acceptable or behave accordingly. This adjustment
for them. Small elements and facts happens partly unconsciously, meaning
might, at this stage, bother volunteers that volunteers do not necessary un-
easily.Volunteers may feel homesick derstand how they get used to certain
and is still in a period of vulnerability. cultural characteristics. At this stage,
He is highly aware at that moment of several cultural aspects are already
most cultural differences. perceived as normal and volunteers
react in a culturally proper way and be-
At that same moment volunteers, if have without difficulties and naturally.
they had not recognised it before, un- Volunteers feel more comfortable and
derstand that the volunteering period independent in daily issues and they es-
is indeed no long holiday.Volunteers tablish some habitual routines in their
might feel frustrated, because still lives in the hosting country.
every single action or interaction with
locals requires a lot of efforts and they The deeper volunteers get to know
might feel dependent because orienta- the culture of the hosting country,
tion within the hosting community and the deeper their understanding of
. . . Cultural Struggle . . . 093

it is. Further cultural shocks might plans after the EVS. It is hard for volun-
happen when specific issues volunteers and the people around them to
teers had not expected or foreseen recognise these inner-changes, because
arise. Around the 9th or 10th months, it is a slow process with incrementally
foreigners may re-discover aspects of changing ideas, visions and perceptions
the local community with which they of things.
had had difficulties because they went
against their own values and principles. When going back home, volunteers
Though before they were ignoring themselves as well as their relatives
these elements in order to avoid and friends might be surprised to
conflictual situations or they were discover how much they have indeed
simply not aware of them, it becomes changed and how much the people
impossible for them now to go on with who had stayed behind had changed
this strategy. These new clashes lead too. Then reintegration begins, which
to a clear distinction between their might be harder than expected.
own cultures or values and the hosting
country’s.
On-Going Changes. All along their

volunteering placement volunteers
learn new skills and new knowledge.
An EVS, in which it is “up-to volun-
teers” to be active and creative, is
an intense time in their lives creating
on-going changes at the personal
level.Volunteers might become more
confident, stronger as for their own
vital choices, and changes may even be
visible in the physical appearance - e.g.
losing or gaining weight, new haircuts,
etc.
These on-going changes should not

be underestimated because this might
be one of the reasons why volunteers
seem to be or are confused from time
to time about volunteering and future

Cultural Particularities
Cultural Particularities describes various Georgian life style.
facets of Georgian culture in four suc-
cessive sections each of which focuses This chapter should never be conside-
on one particular aspect – the concept red as complete, because a culture is
of time and the avoidance of uncer- constantly evolving. Hence, the reader
tainty, collectivism vs. individualism, should always keep in mind that the
communication and finally masculinity information below is subjective and
vs. femininity. This frame has been ins- that to describe a culture is deeply
pired by the work of Geert Hofstede connected to the personal experien-
on cultures. He classified cultures ces someone goes through. Every
using five dimensions - power distance, volunteer has a different experience of
uncertainty avoidance, collectivism vs. Georgian culture. Therefore, you are
individualism, masculinity vs. femininity invited to develop your own views and
and time orientation - which according interpretations.
to his research, can distinguish cultures
from one another. Concept of Time and Uncertainty
Avoidance. This part refers to how
Particular Georgian cultural charac- people in a given culture perceive time
teristics are described below which and how they plan and organise their
are in a European perspective, those daily life. It describes how Georgians
creating confusion, difficulties and/or manage their daily duties and how they
conflicts. The intention is not to give cope with time restrictions.
a full portrait of Georgian culture
or to go into a deep analysis of it as Georgians have an improvised way to
professionals of social sciences do. This organise their daily tasks. Because cho-
chapter describes cultural elements as res and work can take more time than
if they were a mosaic from which the expected or planned - e.g. energy or
reader could pick valuable information water cut-offs, irregular time-lengthe-
making it easier to understand the ned travelling, impossibility to find

needed materials - Georgians have the Therefore a particular chore can
ability to find solutions with diverse take various durations in function of
approaches or to juggle from a task to interruptions and other events during
another when necessary. Plans - if they the execution. In the same way, it is
can be called so in a Western perspec- common in Georgia for people to
tive - change several times during one arrive later than set or to work on
day depending on the environment and diverse projects at the same time. In
its influence. Georgians do feel com- case of deadlines, workers rarely plan
fortable in not knowing what comes their work and usually do not have a
next after an activity or in changing strategy to reach a goal step-by-step.
plans at the last minute. They are used Everything is done at the last minute in
to do that and can hardly consider a “now or never – approach”.
focusing on one given task for a well-
defined duration, the way Westerners Hence, Georgians have a low level of
commonly do. uncertainty avoidance. They are used
to adapting to new and challenging
Hence, time is perceived by Georgians situations and do not need to know
as polychronic. It means that days are how things will be organised in details.
organised depending on known and Not knowing in advance how to reach
unknown tasks and activities which a given location or when a needed
have to be accomplished, allowing document will arrive does not worry
interruptions and changes from one them.
task to another. Westerners, on the op-
posite, organise their days in function Collectivism vs. Individualism.
of the available time and they prioritise This part describes how people relate
the tasks that have to be done one by with one another. In an individualistic
one in order of importance. Georgians society, people set themselves as their
can deal with several objectives at first priority - that is the case in most
the same time while in monochronic Western cultures. On the contrary, a
perception people focus on one defi- collectivistic society emphasizes the
ned goal before dealing with the next community and the group first. Every
one. In polychronic perception time is single person undertakes their tasks to
perceived as unlimited. Georgians use satisfy and take care of every member
the time they need for a given task in the group. That determines social
while monochronic thinking people set interactions and is the fundament of
themselves strict deadlines for specific privacy, inter-personal distance or life
tasks. priorities. Every culture is not totally

collectivistic or individualistic, but it child even when a financially indepen-
tends to lean more to one side than dent adult, will rarely decide to settle
the other. on his own and leave the parents’
home, especially when living in the
Georgians identify themselves in func- same town.
tion of the groups they belong to, and
those are varied and diverse - religious Family has always been the first prio-
groups, ethnical groups, the regions and rity - e.g. in most cases, the birthday of
villages of origin, professions, families a relative will be more important than
and family situations, etc. In Georgian even a professional deadline. Personal
society the group is considered as choices are deeply influenced by the
the first priority. That notion nowa- family or even performed under family
days undergoes a deep change with consent - e.g. the marriage of a daugh-
the transition to a capitalist society. ter or the studies of children. Deci-
However the importance of belonging sions are taken and money is spent
to a certain group remains so far highly for the benefit of the family. Family
important and that is visible through members are interdependent and feel
intersocial rivalries, within the Cauca- comfortable like that.
sus and within Georgia itself.
Furthermore, Georgians do not sepa-
Family and friends play a major role in rate private life from professional life.
the lives of Georgians. Ties between Colleagues are often friends or at least
family members and friends are strong behave like that - e.g. colleagues quite
and close. Family members usually all commonly ask private questions from
live together in the same house, even one another. Therefore the working
often in the same room. It is not com- ambiance is generally friendly except in
mon to have a private room, and as a cases of interpersonal conflicts which
fact to be alone in general - even when definitely ruin the atmosphere. There
away from home or separated from again the group is more important than
one another, family members always individual members - e.g. the professio-
know where the others are and what nal mistake of a given worker is kept
they are up to. Several generations unmentioned; the whole group bears
live together and everyone has their the responsibility. This feature has dee-
own roles and tasks in their communal ply been changing since the collapse of
life. Pensioners’ homes do not exist the Soviet Union and it becomes more
in Georgia, because the whole family common to get jobs with strictly-defi-
takes care of their elderly members. A ned responsibilities.

Communication. Georgian society express dissatisfaction or contradic-
is considered as a high context society: tory opinions on topics like politics
it is a homogeneous and collectivistic in a slightly easier way. Pride is an
culture in which people understand important aspect to take into account
and know already how others will to understand the behaviour of many
react and behave. Therefore people de- Georgians.
velop less direct communication, which
involves less explicit statements. Things In general Georgians are emotional
do not have to be openly expressed to people, and they express their feelings
be understood by everyone. easily, sometimes even using exagge-
ration to emphasize how deep their
In such a culture, people support feelings are. Hence, daily situations
one another by sharing resources are experienced in an emotionally
and time whenever necessary. To use very intense way - e.g. debating or
social connections to manage specific discussing involve emotions and might
tasks is normal - e.g. by knowing the indeed sound like arguing though they
right person a given objective can be definitely are not. Discussions may lack
reached in a few days though it nor- some rational argumentation, espe-
mally would have taken a few months. cially if they concern sensitive issues.
Georgian society is not an informative Likewise, ambivalent understanding is
and transparent society - e.g. a society rare - a given event is either great or
where a location or a direction can be terrible.
found thanks to a map - but a society
where information is known by others. Finally non-verbal communication is
Therefore interpersonal relations play commonly used by Georgians. Facial
a highly important role - e.g. to get language is uncommon with strangers
information, asking your neighbour is and smiling in public to others is defini-
more efficient than looking for it in a tely inappropriate. However people are
guidebook. physically very close to one another,
which can easily be observed by
Moreover, even very close friends and looking at a queue where people are
relatives rarely criticize one another standing so close to one another that
personally, especially in front of others. they may touch one another’s bodies,
Honesty and straightforwardness have even if enough space is available. It is
to be highly diplomatic and careful, normal to welcome even colleagues by
especially if it concerns a personal kissing them on their cheeks or to take
stake of a given person, while you can someone else’s hand to show them

the way. Eye contacts are common and social restrictions. Kissing in public is
shameless - e.g. in public transporta- not very well considered. In the same
tion, people do look at other people way, sexual relations out of wedlock,
without feeling awkward, and it is not especially for women, are not recom-
perceived as an intrusion into their pri- mended, because virginity is important,
vacy as it might be the case in Western if not for the woman herself, then
cultures. for the future husband or his family.
The only objective of dating is to get
Masculinity vs. Femininity. This married and therefore it is taken very
section concerns relations between seriously by both partners and their
men and women, and by extension, families.
their roles and functions within the
household and society. Note again Because getting married and particular-
that gender relations in Georgia are ly finding a good spouse are important,
nowadays evolving very much and that people commonly propose to arrange
they are different in the capital, in small meetings among relatives, friends and
cities and in villages. people from good families – match
making is frequent especially outside
Gender roles are quite set in Geor- the capital.
gia. A man is mostly responsible for
bringing a livelihood to his household
while the woman should take care
of the family and home. Interactions
between genders are somehow
restricted as compared to Western
cultures - e.g. during a meal it is usual
to see women sitting on one side of
the table, men on the other. Going out
alone with someone of the opposite
gender is generally considered as a
sign of showing more than friendship.
Dating is common in Georgia - the
man usually invites the woman for
dinner, to the theatre or to have a walk
– but it can last a long time before any
intimate contact. A dating young couple
is hardly to be seen alone because of

Cultural Guide
Cultural Guide features advice that a fo- remember that it is not worse, it is not
reigner should take into consideration better, it is just different. To respect and
when going to foreign countries for a not to judge is the toughest part of
specific activity like volunteering. This Intercultural Learning and should never
advice is general and specific - some be underestimated.
is valid for any destination while some
more corresponds to Cultural Particu- Responsibility. Foreigners also carry
larities section. They are supposed to with them a particular responsibility
help volunteers integrate. - e.g. the image of their own countries
and peoples. Especially in a country like
Cultural Guide focuses particularly on Georgia which had only few contacts
the cultural challenge. Recommenda- with Europeans over recent years, a
tions concerning the placement, the disrespectful behaviour has a significant
hosting organisation and the work of impact on locals. A voluntary project
volunteers can be found in the chapter aims at breaking stereotypes and one
Volunteers’ Gambles. of the most common failures in such
a perspective is when the presence of
Respect. First of all, a volunteer has to a volunteer and essentially his or her
display a respectful behaviour towards behaviour create stereotypes.Volun-
the new culture he is delving into. teering is no holiday and volunteers
Respect is present at different levels should as much as possible remain
- e.g. to respect different rhythms and aware of the impact they have on the
methods, to respect people from diffe- environment and especially on the
rent backgrounds, with different skills local community.
and opinions. Respect is also to accept
that locals might know the environ- Observation. Due to the first period
ment better and to listen to them. It of wonderment, volunteers usually
is the fundament of continued quality miss cultural aspects which are of high
cooperation.Volunteers should always importance to integrate in the local

community. It is therefore recommen- Flexibility and Patience. When
ded to take some time to observe getting ready to leave for another
all along the volunteering period, country, volunteers should definitely
but especially at the beginning - e.g. be aware that things will be different
some initial choices or behaviour can from the way they are at home. This
influence the stability of the project. is an obvious statement that unfortu-
Even if the environment seems to be nately people about to go to foreign
greatly similar, it does not mean that countries sometimes forget. Expecting
it is. Foreigners often underestimate Western comfort or living standards
cultural differences because Georgia in Georgia is unrealistic. By going to
looks quite Western at first glance. foreign countries, foreigners expose
Consequently, misunderstandings could themselves to other ways of living
be easily avoided by the simple fact and working, but also other ways of
of observing how things go and how thinking and behaving - e.g. different
people behave. Asking for advice before concept of privacy or different gender
taking action is also a good way to get roles. And indeed they have to be keen
familiar with Georgian culture. to adapt to the new cultural environ-
ment sometimes at the most unexpec-
Social Interaction. It is common to ted moments - e.g. problems in energy
observe foreigners staying only with and water supply, working meetings
other foreigners mostly of the same that are cancelled at the last minute or
nationality as them when in a foreign non scheduled public transportation.
country. They came to this foreign By being flexible and patient, such
country to discover a specific culture events will go by unnoticed; otherwise
but by staying always surrounded it will just ruin one’s mood.
by people from the same country
or world area, nobody really grasps Diplomacy. Being diplomatic is of
Georgian cultural challenges. Therefore great importance because of the
developing social connections with collectivistic character of Georgian so-
different groups is of great importance. ciety. Stating your own straight forward
It allows discovering the country from opinions, especially if they concern
a different perspective and delving dee- someone else, may certainly not be
per into its culture. Sports and cultural appreciated. Using indirect commu-
activities as well as interactions with nication is advisable - e.g. to imply or
their neighbours help volunteers to suggest what is thought, to temper
create private networks, outside the the truth, etc. Particularly at the work
working environment. place, where colleagues are close to

one another, to keep a good working consider that if they accept to drink
ambiance and fruitful cooperation, fo- the first toast, they will have to drink
reigners should develop their skills to the following ones. Likewise, to give
feel when an issue and a given situation something in exchange of what is pre-
are too sensitive to be discussed or sented by Georgians when being their
should be totally overlooked in silence. guests at their homes is very impor-
tant. Giving very expensive presents
Self Respect. In Georgia, a woman might be problematic knowing that
is expected to behave in specific ways Georgians are always returning the
- e.g. going out late, meeting with male favour. To leave some culinary delica-
friends are inappropriate. Foreign tessen or small souvenirs from own
women, due to stereotypes, might so- countries behind is best. This gesture
metimes face situations which are very will be highly appreciated and valued
unpleasant like physical or psychologi- by Georgians.
cal harassment. Foreign women should
be aware, when coming to Georgia Homesickness and Emergencies.
that they have to be clearly explicit By going to Georgia to live and work
on their intentions and wishes. To let there, volunteers might feel at a total
things happen without reacting, to loss and homesick. To feel low some-
think it might change all by itself is not times or get mad at cultural details
a solution - every time a disrespectful and to wish to go home right away are
gesture or comment is done, forei- normal reactions. This feeling should
gners should clearly stand for their not be overestimated: it might only be
rights and respect. one bad day.Volunteers should then re-
member why they are here, what they
Back and Forth. Because of the high really want, and to look at the situation
importance for Georgians of making from another point of view or from a
guests comfortable, it is sometimes greater distance can help to discover
hard to refuse what is offered by them. that after all it is not so bad. Never-
To use a gentle tone, to heartily thank theless feeling homesick should not be
for the proposition and to explain underestimated especially if it spreads
gratefulness for such hospitality might out over days and weeks: to try to get
help foreigners to eventually refuse a more social interactions with people
proposition. To refuse wine in some around and to develop activities with
festive celebration might be misunders- them helps you to feel safe. In the
tood but will be accepted if clearly and same way, to meet other volunteers
explicitly expressed - foreigners must who might face similar difficulties is

often a good way to relax and ease Finally, to plan or at least to think
frustrations and negative feelings. about the period after the EVS place-
ment might be useful to move back to
However in the case of critical inci- home reality. Even if it is definitely hard
dents or emergency situations, it is to foresee or plan anything while being
recommended to take some time to in a foreign country, keeping an eye on
cool off before calling home to inform reality at home may help the re-inte-
relatives. After a few hours or days the gration of volunteers.
situation could be different. It is useless
to create worries at the other end of
Europe while in fact the situation is
already getting better here.
Self-Reflection. A volunteering place-

ment is going very fast and volunteers
often feel they are not able to organise
their time. To take a rest once in a
while for a day or two and to reflect
on what has personally and professio-
nally happened is recommended to all
volunteers. In the same way to meet
other volunteers to talk about the
volunteering experience is recommen-
ded in order to get different perspec-
tives and views on the EVS project, as
well as on your personal development.
Especially because being in a foreign
country is highly intense emotionally,
volunteers often suffer from a lack of
reflection and rationality when taking
important decisions and undertaking
actions. To let oneself be driven only by
feelings without stepping back to look
at reality from a greater distance might
trap foreigners in Georgia into delicate
situations.

“Since I was planning to live ten months in Georgia, everybody thought I was crazy, inclu-
ding myself. However, the idea of living in a country whose customs, culture and language
you do not know felt more like a positive challenge. And that’s what it was.
On and after arriving, everything looked and was strange. Everybody was staring at me,
the only blond colourfully dressed female in Georgia – at least that was my impression.
But now I recognise that I am not the only blond and that people do wear other colours
than black. Surprisingly, I have to admit that I am now staring at people while I do not
feel observed anymore. Georgia has made me less stressed as for my agenda: It feels as
if I had never heard of an agenda.Was I normally the person freaking out if someone
was late, and now am I the one arriving a bit late (note the ‘bit’: I will of course remain
punctual...).
Living in a foreign country made my vision change ten times faster than it would have
at home, it really enriched me and I can recommend Georgia to everybody without the
slightest hesitation!”
Uplistsikhe Cave Town near Gori

105
Volunteers’ Gambles
Volunteers’ Gambles gives an insight into the challenges volunteers have to face in
working for a hosting organisation and points out at obstacles and solutions for
fruitful cooperation and successful integration into the new working environment.
Some sections give general advice to volunteers, emphasize the importance of as
well as the way to prepare a voluntary placement and exemplifies common mista-
kes in EVS projects. Furthermore, this chapter describes the specific challenges of
volunteering in Georgia and the consequential benefits for volunteers and suggests
some personal initiatives or activities.
Volunteers’ Gambles describes the most difficult part of the voluntary placement. In
the working environment, all daily and cultural obstacles are adding themselves to
the difficult integration into the working sphere, thus creating a complex situation.
This chapter aims at underlining the obstacles met by an EVS project but it should
also awaken the curiosity and eagerness of potential volunteers and their desire to
accept this EVS challenge, not in a European country, but in Georgia.
Former Soviet Government Building,Tbilisi

107
Mind These
Future or current participants of the a new life and to dedicate time and
European Voluntary Service should be energy to others. Motivations coming
aware of different elements. Next to from the emotional or personal
the general structure and support that instabilities that prompts the only
an EVS project provides, a volunteer wish to leave home might hamper the
should bear in mind his status and his ability to keep motivated in the face
posture. of difficulties and lead to problematic
EVS projects. Moreover, motivation is
Volunteers often have a misleading un- twofold - personal and professional
derstanding about a voluntary project, – and it enables volunteers to integrate
especially concerning their own duties and develop fully all along the entire
and rights and those of the hosting project.
organisation, which as a consequence
creates misunderstandings and even Since going to another country for a
unsolvable troubles. Therefore, Mind European Voluntary Service is not as
These should be used as a reminder of easy as it might look at first glance,
the posture volunteers should have in volunteers should be prepared to
mind and follow in order to enjoy a delve into a totally new environment in
successful EVS project. which their former habits and mental
orientation points will not exist any-
Motivation. First, volunteers should more. That is why the motivation to be
be conscious and honest towards a volunteer is very important, because
themselves and their sending and it gives the strength needed to tackle
hosting organisations as for their and negotiate obstacles when they
motivations to go on a European appear and the will to lastingly accom-
Voluntary Service. Deciding to go to a modate to the new community.
foreign country for such an adventure,
in Georgia or anywhere else, should be Status.Volunteers have to be aware
motivated by a deep desire to discover of their own duties and rights. By
108 . . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . .

behaving according to their role within support from the hosting organisation,
the hosting organisation, especially by to create elaborate projects by sharing
assuming their responsibilities and not experience, knowledge and skills,
overstretching those of others, volun- to respond to the actual needs and
teers will avoid troubles. This attitude interests of local communities, and to
helps to build trust within the working bring a dimension of sustainability into
environment. In some organisations common initiatives.
the ideas or initiatives of volunteers
may be considered as secondary: Volunteers should never consider
volunteers are supplemental workforce implementing activities behind the back
and should be aware about the possi- of the hosting organisation. First, that
bility that their actions may be limited may create unsolvable tensions within
due to this status. On the other hand, the hosting organisation, and second
in dynamic organisations volunteers the implemented actions will disap-
often receive real responsibilities and pear as soon as the EVS project ends.
a diverse set of tasks forcing them – in- Cooperation makes it possible for the
tentionally or not – into long working local people who were involved in the
days. However keeping one’s own role activities to decide to go on with the
in mind and behaving accordingly is implementation after the departure of
the main basis for further successful the volunteers.
cooperation.
Resources.Volunteers should have a
Cooperation. Another element to positive attitude towards sharing and
bear in mind during the volunteering using resources. Such resources are
period is that volunteers have to work knowledge, skills or experience but
with their hosting organisations. Coo- also materials, time or even optimism.
peration might seem evident in theory
but it is not so all the time in practice. Volunteers have to be receptive to
any kind of advice or support that the
Handling different working styles, hosting organisation proposes: they
motivations or interests are not the know the local needs and situations.
only challenge to face in working They also have valuable information
together when coming from diverse about the organisation’s history,
cultural backgrounds and being diffe- activities, partners, methods and funds.
rently skilled. To create quality activities In any case volunteers should display
cooperation is needed at every level. constructive attitudes, listen and
It is the only way for volunteers to get consider all advice given by the host
. . . Volunteers’ Gambles . . . 109

organisation. volunteer, the hosting organisation and
the sending one – and, even more im-
In the same way, volunteers should portant, to understand the EVS philo-
contribute with ideas and initiatives sophy. It has been observed that some
based on their own experiences and volunteers did not properly grasp the
share their perceptions on the organi- philosophy of the European Voluntary
sation of the running projects. One of Service, and this created some confu-
the motivations for an organisation to sion between them and the hosting
host a volunteer is to get fresh ideas organisations about the responsibilities,
and views. Hence, the volunteer should commitments and roles of volunteers.
use that opportunity to contribute to The EVS project is not only about vo-
the organisation and, by extension, the lunteers’ preferences. It also considers
community. the needs of hosting organisations and
local communities. To know the EVS
A volunteer has to be especially aware programme will help you to avoid a lot
of the limited time resource of an EVS of misunderstanding about this topic.
project. The volunteering period is Moreover, it could clarify how financial,
set-up for a specific duration, which logistical and human support is framed
unfortunately is not extendable. This and organised.
forces volunteers to focus on their
personal and professional aims right
from the beginning of their projects.
Therefore, volunteers should set up
their objectives and action plans with
as much detail as possible in order to
avoid to run out of time at the end of
the projects. With that end in mind,
the training sessions during the EVS
project might be useful as they do help
volunteers to reflect on the needed
steps to reach the targeted goals.
EVS Programme. Finally, each volun-

teer is encouraged to get acquainted
to the EVS programme in order to
learn the rights and responsibilities
of the three contracting parties - the

Framework
Beside the volunteers’ right attitudes, Personal Preparation. Personal
it is essential to have a supporting preparation includes several elements.
structure for foreign volunteers First, it is recommended to get ac-
helping them to face their work-re- quainted with the EVS programme, its
lated challenges and to reach suc- philosophy, aims and objectives. Bearing
cess in their projects. Therefore the in mind the rights and responsibilities
European Commission, when setting of the involved partners is the basis for
up the Youth in Action programme, a productive EVS project.
established a couple of instruments
that prepare volunteers before going, Likewise, reading or re-reading the
supports them during their placements concrete project description before
and helps them to reintegrate their leaving might be a good way for volun-
own communities after the voluntee- teers to clarify beforehand what the
ring period. aims and objectives of their personal
EVS project are as well as the concrete
Hence, besides its financial structure tasks they have signed in for.
enabling volunteers to spend the EVS
period without having to contribute Direct conversation between volun-
with their own money, plenty of human teers, hosting and sending organisa-
and logistical arrangements and mecha- tions, is a way to avoid misinterpreta-
nisms provide long-term and emer- tions from the beginning. Therefore, at
gency assistance, when necessary. least one month before the beginning
of the EVS project, the volunteer and
Therefore Framework aims at briefly the hosting organisation should get
introducing which types of support are into regular contact in order to set up
available for volunteers, but also which detailed arrangements for both work
actions volunteers can undertake in and daily life.
order to foresee or solve difficulties.
Personal preparation also includes

some intangible fieldwork: future vo- The Pre-Departure Training usually
lunteers should feel mentally prepared one month before departure, provides
to face challenges waiting for them in general information on the European
the foreign countries they are going to. Voluntary Service and gives an over-
This includes that they are ready and view about common problems of vo-
able to reflect on their motivations for lunteers. It focuses on practical issues
volunteering and about the possibili- like insurance, volunteers’ allowances,
ties of gaining and contributing skills, etc., and on the EVS programme itself
knowledge and experience. An EVS by clarifying elements like the rights
project is a two-sided process, meaning and responsibilities of sending and
that both hosting organisations and hosting organisations and volunteers.
volunteers give and take. It also introduces cultural challenges
volunteers usually meet while being
Mentor and Coordinator. Every in the foreign country. This training
volunteer is individually associated to session gives basic knowledge to every
two specific persons: a mentor and a volunteer and helps them to envision
coordinator. The mentor, who knows misunderstandings and problematic
the hosting organisation, helps the situations.
volunteer to find his marks in and
integrate the new environment and The On-Arrival Training (OAT) is
to cope with specific difficulties in conducted shortly after the arrival of
daily life and at work. The coordinator, volunteers in their hosting countries
who is in most cases a worker of the and organisations. The main aims of
hosting organisation, gives tasks, su- OATs are to make volunteers familiar
pervises and supports the volunteer’s with their new environment, the cultu-
work concretely on a day to day basis. ral particularities of their hosting coun-
Volunteers should refer as often as tries and to reconsider the volunteers’
necessary to these two people as they motivations. Moreover, basic facts on
are the appointed human support for Intercultural Learning and crisis or
all work related and daily life issues. conflict management are provided. This
training session allows volunteers to
Furthermore, every volunteer is reflect on their first impressions and
obliged to attend compulsory training to determine what they would like to
session which take place at strategic achieve during their EVS placement
moments during a voluntary project and how. During that training session,
and which vary in aims and objectives. volunteers usually indicate their first
These are described below. problems concerning work which can

be easily addressed with the help and meeting with other volunteers who
advice of the trainers. In the same way, are also in the final stages of their EVS
they get the chance to meet other projects can be attended by volunteers.
volunteers involved in different types However, the evaluation shall address
of projects across the country. aims, objectives and expectations and
scrutinize the working experience and
The Mid-Term Meeting (MTM), as newly gained skills, the personal contri-
the title indicates, takes place halfway butions to the host organisation and
in a volunteering period. The main aims local community, as well as on personal
of MTMs are to offer some space and support and care of the host and sen-
time outside the hosting placements ding organisations. Time is also spent
to discuss the evolution of the EVS on the reintegration of volunteers in
projects in general and to exchange their own countries.
experience with other volunteers in
the same country. MTMs are a great Conflict Mediation. However, even
opportunity to discuss and to tackle with all these supportive mecha-
raising conflict situations in the living nisms to help volunteers and prevent
and working environments. What’s misunderstandings, some conflicts may
more, volunteers get some time and appear. Additional support measu-
space to reflect on their own personal res for troubleshooting exist. This
and professional achievements and to includes SALTO Multipliers present
plan their future objectives. Intercultu- in the country whose task is to help
ral Learning and conflict management volunteers and hosting organisations
are scrutinized during MTMs.Volun- with general advice or mediating
teers also start thinking about their in an emergency situation. SALTO
plans for after their EVS projects and Multipliers are youth workers who
are suggested some perspectives and have been selected by SALTO-EECA
possibilities. Resource Centre for every Eastern
European and Caucasian country (see
The Final Evaluation of the EVS contact details in the chapter Resour-
Activity (FE) is to evaluate the entire ces). If their mediation is not successful,
EVS periods with volunteers. This the volunteer can approach the SOS-
evaluation is supposed to be conduc- Volunteer-Helpdesk on http://ec.europa.
ted with the sending organisation, but eu/youth/archive/program/sos/ which is
it is recommended to evaluate the EVS an online support platform for trou-
project also with the hosting organisa- bleshooting critical EVS problems.
tion. In the best case a Final Evaluation

Structural Obstacles
One of the main factors bringing organisations:
troubles or failure to an EVS project . To provide decent accommodation to
- besides logistical problems before volunteers and set up a budget for the
departure caused by inexperienced volunteers’ EVS projects in terms of
sending organisations or the wrong at- food and local transportation allo-
titudes of volunteers - is definitely the wance.
preparation of a volunteer’s placement . To prepare work schedules for volun-
by the hosting organisation. Hosting teers indicating tasks, learning objecti-
organisations are responsible for ves and time frames for the implemen-
providing an environment that allows tation of their personal projects and
volunteers to work on their appointed to make sure the work load is not too
tasks, to feel comfortable in order to heavy, too light or too monotonous.
take initiatives and to integrate local . To appoint a coordinator that helps
communities. volunteers to organise their work
at the beginning and develop their
Unfortunately, theory may be far from personal projects later on. This coor-
reality at different levels and different dinator is mainly responsible for the
scales. The most common mistakes integration of volunteers in the hosting
made by hosting organisations are organisation.
listed below. Those are accompanied . To appoint a mentor who is responsi-
by some related advice to future vo- ble for supporting volunteers in their
lunteers that aims at raising awareness integration in local communities and
about commonly observed problems. for helping them particularly at the
This advice is valid for all EVS projects, beginning in their daily life chores like
independently of the destination. shopping or transportation.
. To prepare all workers in the hosting
Duties. To understand common organisation to welcome the new-
mistakes and tackle them, we need comer and understand his role. This
to bear in mind the duties of hosting includes to raise awareness about

cultural differences and the problems is the best option.
that may occur due to different wor-
king styles. Volunteers should always remain
cooperative and should be aware
At best all the above mentioned about the socio-economic state of
aspects will be considered and solved their hosting countries when complai-
before the arrival of the volunteer. ning about logistical arrangements like
Unfortunately some organisations may accommodation or food allowances.
not make these arrangements properly Inappropriate attitudes will bring no
or on time. Below some common results and tensions will rise or persist.
problems are listed.
Working Schedule. At the begin-
Logistics. Logistical problems com- ning of an EVS project usually a lot of
monly occur, especially concerning attention is dedicated to the volun-
accommodation and food allowance. teer, and the members of the hosting
When the volunteer arrives, for organisation are very curious about
various reasons, no accommodation the newcomer. The organisation and
might have been organised or the its members are briefly introduced and
appointed accommodation might not the first tasks given to the volunteer
be decent enough or might not satisfy may be to check some publications
the volunteer. In the same way, the or reports about the organisation in
volunteer might consider the food order to get familiar with the organi-
allowance is not sufficient because sation’s mission, target group and field
either it is actually too small or the of action.
volunteer’s usual diet implies an extra
cost - e.g. eating imported products as Fully busy with cultural adaptation
yogurts or cereals. and daily challenges volunteers do not
recognise how fast the first weeks run
If the reasons of dissatisfaction are away. After a while, volunteers might
tangible - e.g. there is no bathroom or realise that they actually do not have
kitchen available, or the door of the working schedules or clearly defined
room does not close, etc. - volunteers tasks and that they are not integrated
should raise the issue as soon as pos- in the organisation. A certain feeling of
sible in order to find an agreed upon isolation within the organisation could
solution. As for the food allowance dis- come up then.
cussing honestly with hosting organisa-
tion to find a satisfactory compromise In such a situation, volunteers should

meet their coordinators and mentors When organising working schedules by
in order to express their difficulties themselves, volunteers should discuss
and agree on deepened collaboration. their initiatives and ideas with collea-
Furthermore, helping the members gues in order to involve interested
of the organisations or taking small workers and to get support or advice
initiatives from the start can help if necessary. If volunteers inform peo-
volunteers to integrate. ple around them about their activities
and their interests and plans, becoming
Coordinator. Another problem more independent within the working
frequently experienced by volunteers environment will be better accepted.
is that the coordinator is in fact not
often present at the working place and Mentoring. A common problem also
hence is unavailable. In that case, volun- concerns mentors. Appointed mentors
teers do not receive any tasks or do may not fulfil their duties and responsi-
not have any working schedule, which bilities. Not helping volunteers to find
leads to a lack of direct support within their marks, deal with daily life and get
the organisation. to know people and places are minor
problems as compared to mentors
In this situation, volunteers should who do not support volunteers in case
either talk with the mentor in order of real problems - e.g. going to the
to change the coordinator, or begin to police for various declarations, helping
collaborate with other workers in the with health care and translations, etc.
organisation on their own initiatives.
In the case of troubles within hosting
If no change occurs, volunteers com- organisations, mentors who do not
monly begin to organise their wor- know the organisations, who do not
king schedules by themselves. Taking consider the position of the volunteers
initiatives, finding activities is a great or who are totally unavailable might
way to overcome the lack of collabo- become very problematic for volun-
ration with the coordinator. Anyway it teers. However, it is possible, with di-
might create some misunderstandings plomacy, to talk with hosting organisa-
in the hosting organisation: why are tions in order to change mentors. That
volunteers bypassing the authority of should be done cautiously in order not
coordinators and being stressed about to create any trouble. Another solution
having light working schedules, which is to informally refer to another per-
means a lot of free time? son when support is needed.

Cultural Misunderstandings. Some Generally, the main reason for all these
problematic situations might rise up problems is usually the lack of prepa-
because of cultural differences. That ration within the hosting organisation
usually appears after a few weeks, for hosting a foreign volunteer. But it
especially if the workers of the orga- might also have some roots in or be
nisations and volunteers had not been influenced by the lack of professional
prepared enough about the cultural experience on the side of sending
challenge that would appear when organisations that do not select and/or
working in a multicultural environment. prepare volunteers properly, or volun-
teers with non-cooperative attitudes
Working styles might be different, - these are described in the part Mind
mutual expectations might hardly be These.
understood and the general behaviour
might be misinterpreted - e.g. coming Worst case scenarios can be easily
on time vs. coming late, having private avoided but they unfortunately still
phone calls during office hours vs. fo- occur. Therefore, volunteers should be
cusing only on work, waiting for tasks aware of the troubleshooting possi-
vs. taking initiatives. In a tense envi- bilities in such situations which are
ronment, volunteers should be careful detailed in the chapter Framework.
with demands, because claiming rights
and responsibilities or requesting tasks,
schedules and meetings are attitudes
which could have some non-expected
negative results.
Collaboration between people from

different cultural backgrounds is one of
the toughest parts of the volunteering
period. Observation at the beginning,
patience and respect on both sides
and the will and effort to adapt are
the best advice available. Signing up
for an EVS project means to sign up
for working on overcoming cultural
barriers in order to set-up sustainable
cooperation and projects.

Challenges and Achievements
Beside the common challenges their motivation after a while. Great
volunteers meet in foreign countries, ideas may be imagined but may not be
volunteering in Georgia makes volun- implemented afterwards, schedules or
teers face some situations they have deadlines may not be kept, or workers
not been prepared for or they had may not respect an agreed-upon task
never expected to occur. Nevertheless, division. Frustration and a feeling of
because of the developing state of the fighting against windmills might appear,
hosting structures in EECA countries, because no immediate change can be
volunteers meet the below listed recorded by concerned volunteers.
challenges with fairly regular frequency.
Them appearing depends naturally on Impact and Benefit. This challenge if ta-
the experience and preparation of the ken as such will let volunteers discover
hosting organisations and the volun- that changes, especially behavioural or
teer may not be confronted to any social changes, mostly do not occur as
of these situations.Volunteers should fast as we may wish. This helps us to
anyway be aware that they might occur. understand that it is worth trying again
and again and vain to give up because
However, dealing with and overcoming only continued efforts will eventually
these demanding situations creates ad- produce visible effects and results. It
ditional benefits which volunteers will also teaches volunteers how to keep
gain from volunteering specifically in their personal visions and strengths to
Georgia. Hence, for every specific chal- implement personal aims and ideas.
lenge, an overview about the impact
they may have and the achievement Dependence. Commonly, volunteers
volunteers may reach are given. feel dependent in Georgia because
communication with authorities, target
Keep Motivated. Due to different groups, the members of other orga-
working styles and work organisations nisations, or even within their hosting
in Georgia a lot of volunteers lose organisations is difficult or impossible

due to the low level of knowledge of on one hand, as soon as the beginning
English. Consequently, for example, of their projects volunteers are forced
when a volunteer wishes to organise to develop personal initiatives or on
a local workshop in a school, the first the other hand they receive no human
contact if not the entire collaboration support for the implementation of
with the principal has to be facilitated specific activities. Bearing in mind that
by a Georgian colleague. In the same they are not supposed to have any
way, fundraising for projects often professional skills linked to the field
requires someone speaking Georgian. of their organisations’ work, the task
All this often gives volunteers the might become very demanding.Volun-
impression that without the help of teers can be consequently overloaded
a colleague nothing can be done or and left alone to face the responsibili-
arranged. ties of difficult missions for which they
had not been prepared.
Impact and Benefit. This challenge offers
the chance for close collaboration with Impact and Benefit. This challenge
the hosting organisation by strengthe- enables volunteers to gain a lot of skills
ning the relation between an organi- and abilities by applying personal newly
sation’s worker and a volunteer. It also acquired knowledge straight away
produces creativity to set up, jointly in the projects. By being responsible
with the hosting organisation, activities for entire projects and their success
which require less language skills - e.g. volunteers will improve their skills in
artistic activities or sports. Moreover project management very fast. At a
because of the feeling of dependence, more personal level self-confidence
volunteers are pushed into learning at and the feeling of being able to deal
least basic Georgian to communicate with complex tasks will be enhanced.
directly with locals.
Inverted Learning Process. Some
Underdeveloped Structures. In volunteers may think that in their
some Georgian hosting organisations, hosting organisations a couple of
the internal organisational structure is colleagues have functions for which
underdeveloped. Some organisations they obviously do not have the re-
are often only based on the initiative of quired qualifications or the necessary
one or two persons, who are overwor- knowledge.Volunteers will very fast
ked and have little time for continued find themselves in a situation in which
cooperation with newly arrived volun- they not only do not get the help they
teers. This can have two consequences: need for the implementation of their

tasks, but also can note they are more create a feeling of helplessness in face
skilled than their appointed support of the often dramatic life situations
persons. Then, the learning process mi- they witness.
ght turn around and volunteer will be
expected to share knowledge and to Impact and Benefit. This challenge bears
support the professional development the potential for volunteers to consi-
of their colleagues. Such a situation der their own life situations and to va-
produces confusion on both sides and lue small things and happenings. What’s
an inversion of the working hierarchy more, it might show volunteers how
is hard to manage.Volunteers might en- with small means and little changes
counter scepticism and rejection while big impacts and great improvements
feeling uncomfortable in the situation. can be achieved in the target groups,
because for orphans or homeless
Impact and Benefit. This challenge children being valued by being able to
provides the opportunity for a very participate in a theatre play is essential.
dense integration of volunteers in their
hosting organisations. It will give them
a lot of responsibility and involvement
in different fields of work in order to
improve the human and organisational
capacity of their hosting organisations.
Furthermore, volunteers will themsel-
ves acquire abilities and experience by
sharing knowledge, if not by teaching
skills.
Emotional Involvement. A lot of

Georgian organisations work with
homeless children, orphans, Internally
Displaced People, disabled people, drug
addicts or other vulnerable groups.
Being involved in daily or temporary
activities with these target groups
means to be confronted with a lot
of sensitive issues.Volunteers might
get deeply emotionally involved into
the fate of other people and this can

Practical Suggestions
Volunteers sometimes lack concrete or national music is a great event all
ideas to get active. Deeply involved in guests will surely enjoy.Volunteers
daily events and cultural challenges, can even teach traditional dances or
volunteers might lose focus and forget organise initiation in some national
what they wanted to achieve. There- games.Volunteers can also organise a
fore the list below provides concrete gathering of people to discuss specific
ideas and methods to implement small issues like cultural diversity, Europe,
projects, which might be chosen by the active citizenship, etc.
volunteer.
If volunteers possess specific artistic
However, volunteers should always skills, they can also set up classes,
try first to take part in the running workshops or clubs on music, photo-
activities of their hosting organisations, graphy, painting, etc. Art activities are
because this allows a faster and better a good tool to create intercultural
integration into the organisation and dialogue and help groups to express
a deeper trust for further personal emotions and thoughts, especially
initiatives. when dealing with children and disa-
bled people.
Culture and Arts. With the help of
the present European volunteers’ com- Moreover, with or without experience,
munity, or on their own, volunteers can to participate or organise theatre plays
organise intercultural activities. It raises are of great interest for both local
cultural awareness and enhances tole- communities and volunteers. Besides
rance between locals and foreigners. the improvement in language skills,
theatre plays support the development
To organise an intercultural evening by of self-confidence and create social
preparing cookies, drinks and dishes interactions. If volunteers work in a
from different countries and presenting youth club, setting up a theatre group
traditional customs, popular folklore can be an option for a long-term initia-

tive concluding the voluntary project consider organising a rafting afternoon
with a public representation of the play. if there is no financial support and no
experienced people for coordination
Hard skills.Volunteers can set up available.
activities according to their own hard
skills. It can be organised in a formal Different methods can be suggested to
or informal way and can concern very set up activities concerning the above
different themes such as computer described topics.
skills, HIV/AIDS prevention, writing
a Curriculum Vitae, Human Rights, Activities should make use of non-
leadership, etc. formal educational methods such as
role plays, discussions, group building
These activities can also be organised activities, etc., which focus on the
in a given language hence raising the integration and activation of all partici-
language skills of participants. Moreo- pants. Moreover, they are an alternative
ver, learning the local language will help to formal learning methods used in
volunteers when they decide to set up schools and universities which young
language classes within their organi- people know and deal with every day.
sations. Teaching one’s own language,
or another language one is fluent in is Regular Activities. Setting up regular
valuable for both local communities activities helps to create a stable group
and volunteers. of people which gather regularly. Be-
cause of the frequent meetings, deeper
Sports. Sports activities bring people results can be reached. After the de-
from different backgrounds together. parture of volunteers, these activities
Linguistic competence is of less impor- might even go on if the participants’
tance than human values like respect, motivation is strong enough and if they
tolerance and supportiveness that can are given the opportunity. In agreement
be taught by practicing sports. Sports with local needs and the choices of
activities include dancing lessons, board volunteers, activities may be set up on
game clubs, or even hiking excursions. weekly, biweekly or monthly schedules.
When setting up sports activities, vo- For regular activities, both formal and
lunteers should consider the knowled- non-formal educational methods can
ge and the experience of their hosting be used, in agreement with the chosen
organisations and of themselves, as topics and the target groups.
well as the potentials of the environ-
ment. It is for example unadvisable to

Exceptional Events. To present for new collaborators or donors. This
their own culture or to celebrate a requires skills in communication and
particular day - e.g. the Day of Europe, diplomacy, as well as the availability for
holidays in their home countries, etc. meetings in order to explain the aims,
- volunteers can set up exceptional objectives, activities and structures of
events. These should provide a specific the organisations - meaning volunteers
programme with entertaining activities first need to know their hosting orga-
for participants. These exceptional nisations very well.
events can be of many different types:
exhibitions, debates, traditional dancing Volunteers can also support their
contests, etc. organisations by creating promotional
material: flyers, booklets, short movies,
Camps.Volunteers, in cooperation etc. This material can be used to pro-
with their hosting organisations or mote organisations and to raise funds
with other European volunteers, might for future projects.
suggest to organise work camps ad-
dressing different issues or topics. The
camps can target children with fewer
opportunities and can be local, regional
or national.
Campaigns.Volunteers can imple-

ment campaigns dedicated to specific
topics, e.g. ecological awareness, safe
sex, gender equality, minority rights,
healthy life styles, addictions, etc.
Identifying goals and objectives, choo-
sing methods, creating programmes,
promoting the initiatives or looking for
funds are necessary tasks in order to
realise such an event.
Promotion and Networking.

Volunteers can take part in fundraising
activities. They can help their organisa-
tions by being responsible for contacts
with existing partners or by looking

Concluding Remarks
The intention of this handbook is to promote both volunteering and volunteering
in Georgia. By outlining the value of volunteering, describing the challenges of living
and working in Georgia, but also indicating the benefits volunteers can gain and the
tangible impacts they can have during their EVS projects, we hope that readers will
experience the desire to discover Georgia as European Volunteers.
Being a volunteer in Georgia is a life time adventure for sure, and moreover an
adventure which provides a lot of opportunities for personal development.
The diverse possibilities for personal initiative and the high level of responsibility
volunteers can envisage in Georgian organisations imply great learning in professio-
nal contexts. The adaptation to Georgian culture, including experiencing different
approaches to time, relations and priorities, gives a practical example of what In-
tercultural Learning and respect really mean and what their values are. Finally, the
day-to-day struggle of Georgian daily life may make volunteers feel nothing will be
impossible after managing such difficulties.
Before you pack and land there, you should listen to a last warning: be aware that
going on a European Voluntary Service project in Georgia will change you and your
life forever...
... and be also sure it will be one of the most amazing time you will ever have spent
or may ever spend in your entire life time...
Semi-Desertic Landscapes near David Gareji Cave Town

125
Resources
Resources directs to further resources about Georgia, Intercultural Learning and
the European Voluntary Service for those who want to know more about the three
topics of this book. This chapter provides books and movies about Georgia, refers
to further readings about Intercultural Learning or to institutions working on these
issues and provides links for more information about the European Voluntary Ser-
vice.
Medieval Defensive Tower in Mestia, Upper-Svaneti Region

127
Georgia
The following readings and movies are Cossacks forces. His insights and views
advised to anyone who is planning to on the culture at the end of the XIXth
travel or to stay in Georgia. They illus- century are a good start to understand
trate specific components of Georgian the people and their traditions.
culture and history and reflect on the
relations Georgia has with its neigh- Ali and Nino: A Love Story, Kurban
bours. Said, 1937. This book written by the
Jewish Azerbaijani writer Lev Nussi-
.. Readings .. mbaum under his pseudonym Kurban
Said was published in 1937 in Vienna. In
The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, the shape of a love story between an
Shota Rustaveli. This epic poem written Azerbaijani young man called Ali and a
by Rustaveli during the reign of King Georgian woman called Nino, the no-
Tamara, “Queen of the Queens and vel describes the life at the crossroads
King of the Kings”, addresses humanist between European and Asian cultures
values. Deeply connected to Geor- in Baku, Azerbaijan, during WW1. This
gian culture and the Georgian way of book is a must to get to know more
thinking, this book is – since it requires about the cultural characteristics of
deep and full concentration - of great the Caucasus and the interrelations
interest. between Georgians, Azerbaijanis and
Armenians. Reading it before coming
The Caucasus, Alexandre Dumas, to Georgia will give a general idea
1859. This diary held by the French about the cultures in Southern Cau-
writer Alexandre Dumas describes his casus, but reading it while living there
adventures during his journey from reveals different layers in the story.
Astrakhan, in Russia, to Tbilisi, across
Dagestan and Baku. At that time, the The Georgian Feast -The vibrant
Caucasus region definitely lacked Culture and Savoury Food of the
peace and he had to travel escorted by Republic of Georgia, Darra Golds-
128 . . . Resources . . .
tein, 1993. This book provides a brief provides an overview of Georgian
overview of Georgian history until the literature. It covers the whole history
beginning of the 1990s and gives an of its literature, analysing the influences
overview of Georgian cooking style of Greek, Persian and Russian literatu-
and traditional table habits. In the first res, focusing on the art of oration and
chapters Darra Goldstein explains poetry and describing the tragedy of
different components of Georgian Georgian intellectuals during the Great
celebrations and their symbolism. That Purges of Stalin in 1937.
is followed by the recipes of traditio-
nal dishes with a description of their Georgia - In the Mountains of
probable origins, the ways or occasions Poetry, Peter Nasmyth, 2001. By
to consume them and their diverse portraying Georgian landscapes and
variations. This book can help you to traditions, Nasmyth gives the desire
learn how to cook Georgian dishes, to discover this country that has been
sauces and pastries. all along history surrounded by strong
powers like the Persian, Ottoman or
The Making of the Georgian Nation, Russian Empires. Nevertheless, the
Ronald Grigor Suny, 1994. Covering author demonstrates how Georgians
the history of Georgia from its early managed to keep their culture alive.
beginnings, through all invasions, during The book features a description of
the Soviet Union era and until today, the epic tradition of writing and telling
this book is recommended to anyone stories, table traditions, and it contains
who wants to know more about the some chapters on religion. This book
development of Georgia as a nation. is good to know more about the
This book written at the beginning of current state of Georgian culture; it
the independence unfortunately does also features interesting illustrations
not include the latest political develop- and pictures.
ments like the conflicts in Abkhazia and
South Ossetia, the Rose Revolution Bread and Ashes - A Walk Through
and the subsequent tension with the the Mountains of Georgia, Tony
Russian Federation. Anderson, 2003. Tony Anderson walked
along the Greater Caucasus Mountain
The Literature of Georgia: A History, Range in Georgia from East to West
Donald Rayfield, 1994 and revised in 1999. This book gives an account of
edition in 2000. Written by a professor his experience in the remote mountai-
of Russian and Georgian languages at nous territories. His journey aimed at
the University of London, this book meeting people living there and at get-
. . . Resources . . . 129
ting to know their particular culture. to leave his land to look for his injured
With the description of the fascinating son, a soldier. His journey turns out
landscapes of Georgia, the observa- to be a real adventure in Europe. The
tions concerning history, the relations movie that got an award at the 4th
with neighbours and the culture of Moscow International Film Festival,
the different people the author met, is the most famous Georgian movie
this book is of great interest for future produced during Soviet times. It descri-
volunteers to understand cultural bes very well how Georgians are: kind,
differences in Georgia. In the same way, charismatic, talkative and resilient.
the author often refers to the writings
of former travellers, comparing their Mimino, directed by Giorgi Danelia,
cultural observations with what he 1977. The Georgian helicopter pilot
observes himself. Mimino from Telavi dreams of flying
for international airlines and therefore
Georgia Diary – A Chronicle of War goes to Moscow to make his dream
and Political Chaos in Post-Soviet come true. There he meets an Arme-
Caucasus, Thomas Goltz, (2006). nian truck driver and together they try
Thomas Goltz, an American writer and to manage their life in the capital of the
journalist, gives - based on his nume- USSR, but at the end Mimino returns
rous visits to Georgia - a deep insight to his beloved Georgia because of
into the political and social situation his homesickness. The movie is very
in Georgia between 1992 and 1998. famous in all former Soviet Union
The book focuses mainly on the civil republics and most people can recall
war and on the war in Abkhazia and his jokes from it. However, this is not the
reports are enriched with first hand only reason to watch it. It also gives an
experience from different war zones. insight into the Georgian communistic
It is generally easy to read and due to heritage and it shows some Georgian
the good documentation of the author cultural characteristics.
recommended for those who are in-
terested in the political chaos Georgia Since Otar Left, directed by Julie
went through in the 1990s. Bertucelli, 2003. Three generations of
Georgian women live together in Tbi-
.. Movies .. lisi: the grandmother Eka, her daughter
Marina and her granddaughter Ada. Eka,
The Father of a Soldier, directed by a passionate of French culture, hopes
Rezo Chkheidze, 1964. During WW2, to see her son again who left a few
an old Georgian winegrower decides years ago for France in order to find
130 . . . Resources . . .
a “better life”, while Marina and Ada brings them there, they encounter an
find it too cruel to tell her he is dead. old man with his grandchild carrying
This movie describes the interrela- an empty coffin: these two Georgians
tions between different generations in are going to the village of an enemy
Georgian families with great subtlety. clan of their family in order to sacrifice
The portraits of these three women the grandpa to end the bloody strife
illustrate very well how different gene- between the two families. This movie
rations perceive the current reality of shows still existing archaic traditions
the country. in some parts of Georgia and illustra-
tes deep cultural differences between
Trip to Karabakh, directed by Levan Westerners and Georgians.
Tutberidze, 2006. Two Georgians
decide to head to Armenia to buy
some drugs - on their chaotic way
they got involved into the conflict
in Nagorno-Karabakh. This movie is
recommended for people who have
never been to the Caucasus. It contains
a deep insight into Caucasian inter-
social relations and particularly into
Georgia’s ambivalent perception of
its neighbours. Caucasian issues like
brotherhood, the importance of the
family, social restrictions or hospitality
are to be discovered along the movie.
Besides, Trip to Karabakh gives a quick
vision of the chaotic political situation
in Southern Caucasus in the early 90s.
It is a good starting point for a deeper
understanding of the current situation.
Legacy, directed by Temur and Gela

Babluani, 2006. Three French people,
accompanied by their translator, travel
through remote Georgian areas in
order to claim a ruined castle that one
of them has inherited. In the bus which
. . . Resources . . . 131
Intercultural Learning
Several sources of information are and to cultural diversity are of special
listed below which are of relevant interest. They inform about specific
interest to understand better the tools and methods about activities to
mechanisms influencing Intercultural include young people with fewer op-
Learning and non-formal education. portunities and from different cultural
Some of these publications additionally minorities. Available online on www.
provide basic knowledge about how to SALTO-YOUTH.net
implement exercises and workshops in
an intercultural context. They all give Training Kit n°4 Intercultural Lear-
background information and support ning, a publication of the Council of
for the experience a European Volun- Europe and the European Commission,
teer will get. 2000. This manual presents what In-
tercultural Learning is and means. The
SALTO-YOUTH. The Support and training-kit describes different methods
Advanced Learning and Training Op- used in non-formal education and how
portunities structure within the Youth to implement them. For every method
in Action programme of the European - energisers, individual exercises,
Community aims at supporting youth discussions, role plays, problem solving,
projects with particular attention to etc. - examples of activities are presen-
issues like cultural diversity, social ted. Some keys are also given for the
inclusion or to participation of young organisation of intercultural works-
people and neighbouring regions such hops and exchanges. This booklet
as EuroMed, South East Europe or is interesting for future participants
Eastern Europe and Caucasus. This in the European Voluntary Service
network of eight Resource Centres programme because it indicates what
provides resources, information and non-formal education focusing on
training for youth and youth workers. Intercultural Learning is and what
For future volunteers, the Resource challenges volunteers will meet when
Centres dedicated to social inclusion dealing with that topic. Available online
132 . . . Resources . . .
on www.youth-partnership.net culture, or discrimination are given,
along with questions inciting readers
Training Kit n°5 International into reflection. The second part is
Voluntary Service, a publication of the dedicated to activities, methods and
Council of Europe and the European resources for non-formal education.
Commission, 2000. This publication is Even if not a trainer, or not directly
of particular importance to young peo- involved in training activities, future
ple who consider going on a European European Volunteers might find here
Voluntary Service. This manual features great inspiration for implementing
a detailed approach of the different workshops on different topics within
phases of a voluntary project and gives their volunteering period. Available
precise advice for each step – the plan- online on http://eycb.coe.int/edupack
ning and preparation of a volunteering
project, collaboration with partner or- ID Booklet Ideas for Inclusion
ganisations, the development and final and Diversity, a Practical Booklet
return of the volunteer - to achieve a about Making your Youth Work
high quality and successful project. Fur- and your International Projects
thermore, this manual gives some tips more Inclusive and Reaching more
on how to foresee or manage specific Diverse Target Groups, a publication
troubles which commonly happen du- of SALTO-Youth Inclusion and Cultural
ring voluntary projects. Available online Diversity Centres, 2006. This booklet
www.youth-partnership.net is a great tool for future activities
concerning matters of Intercultural
Education Pack - Ideas, Resources, Learning. It explains in great detail
Methods and Activities for Informal methods and exercises to work with
Intercultural Education with Young different groups of people on the issue
People and Adults, a publication of of inclusion and diversity. The first two
the Council of Europe and the Human parts are dedicated to the meaning of
Rights Education Associates, 2004. identity – one’s own and the others’
This manual is of relevant interest for – and give basic knowledge necessary
everyone who is involved in youth to use the following parts on inclu-
work and non-formal education. The sion and diversity. Both theoretical
first part explains what Intercultural and practical, this booklet is useful to
Learning is all about and why it is discover oneself before an intercultural
relevant for the present and future experience as well as to get ideas to
challenges of our societies. Key-ele- implement workshops. Available online
ments for understanding identity, on http://www.salto-youth.net/IDBooklet/
. . . Resources . . . 133
Culture Matters - The Peace Corps
Cross-Cultural Workbook, a publi-
cation of the Peace Corps Centre’s
Information Collection and Exchange
(ICE). This manual was published for
American Peace Corps Volunteers, but
is useful for anyone about to face vo-
lunteering challenges in foreign coun-
tries. The book features a theoretical
background and group and individual
exercises, deals with integration and
adaptation in a foreign community
and studies the difficulties volunteers
might encounter in a new cultural
environment. By its practical exercises
and advice, it gives materials to reflect
upon and become aware of our own
culture and values. Available online on
www.peacecorps.gov
134 . . . Resources . . .
European Voluntary Service
While the European Voluntary Service EVS Database. This platform provi-
is very well advertised when taking pla- des needed and helpful information for
ce in member countries (the European future, current or former volunteers.
Union countries plus Norway, Turkey, The most important section is a data-
Iceland, Switzerland and Lichtenstein), base of all organisations which possess
this is not the case for neighbouring the Expression of Interest (EI) allowing
partner countries. The following links them officially to organise EVS projects
offer further information about Euro- like sending, hosting and coordinating
pean Voluntary Service projects within organisations under Action 2 of the
Eastern Europe and the Caucasus in Youth in Action programme. Any orga-
general, and Georgia in particular. nisation that wishes to participate in
the EVS programme has to be officially
Youth in Action Programme. The registered and is then listed on the
Youth in Action programme is the pro- website.
gramme implemented by the European
Commission dedicated to young peo- SALTO-Eastern Europe and Cau-
ple and youth workers. The European casus Resource Centre (SALTO-
Voluntary Service is part of the Youth EECA). The SALTO-EECA Resource
in Action programme. Components of Centre, set up in 2003, aims at deve-
the programme are described in details loping and improving youth projects
on the website of the European Com- within the frame of the Youth in Action
mission in the section “Youth”. http:// programme involving EECA countries
ec.europa.eu/youth following the policy for the neighbou-
ring countries of the European Union.
. . . Resources . . . 135
On its website it proposes informa- DRONI, Tbilisi, giokika@yahoo.com
tion for on-going projects and future
cooperation with the EECA region as . Pavle Tvaliashvili, SIQA Georgian
well as contact detail of youth workers Association of Educational Initiatives,
involved in the programme. The Re- Rustavi, pavle@ctc.org.ge
source Centre is also responsible for
EVS accreditation of EVS organisations . Aleks Metreveli, Association “Georgian
as well as for management of on-arrival Youth for Europe”, Rustavi, lekso82me-
trainings and mid-term meetings for treveli@gmail.com
volunteers Information about SALTO-
EECA on www.salto-youth.net/eeca/
Multipliers of SALTO-EECA in
Georgia. Multipliers are the persons
who have been selected by the SAL-
TO-EECA Resource Centre in order
to spread information and promote
the Youth in Action programme in
each EECA country. By contacting
the multipliers, the future volunteer
will get information about on-going
projects and available placements for
European Voluntary Service in different
organisations across the given country.
More information on www.salto-youth.
net/eecamultipliers/
At the time of writing, the multipliers
of SALTO-EECA for Georgia are:
. Giorgi Kakulia, Academy for Peace and

Development, Tbilisi, giorgi.kakulia@
gmail.com
. Rusudan Kalichava, Association ATI-

NATI, Zugdidi, rusudan@atinati.org
. Giorgi Kikalishvili,Youth Association
136 . . . Resources . . .
. . . Resources . . . 137
The Georgian Language
A short language overview is given below aiming at helping volunteers in their daily
contacts with locals. Divided into different sections, it covers the different situations
foreigners will meet when living in Georgia - e.g. shopping, using public transporta-
tion, giving basic information about one’s own activities, etc.
The Latin transcription is presented next to the Georgian version to help new-
comers to familiarise themselves with the written alphabet.When the polite version
differs from the familiar one, both versions are stated.
Alphabet. Georgian language possesses its own written alphabet featuring 33 let-
ters. There is no distinction between uppercase and lowercase.
a -A J - J like in “pleasure” W - CH’ (ejective)

b-B r - R (rhotic) x - X like in German
g - G like in “go” s-S “Achtung”
d-D t - T’ (ejective) j - DJ like in “jungle”
e-E u-U h - H like in “house”
v -V f-P
z-Z q-K
T -T R - GH like a French “r”
i-I y - Q’ (ejective)
k - K’ (ejective) S - SH like in “shop”
l-L C - CH like in “chewing
m-M gum”
n-N c - TS like in “tsunami”
o-O Z - DZ
p - P’ (ejective) w - TS’ (ejective)
Wooden Balconies and Loggias, Old Centre of Tbilisi

139
Basics
Yes. diax (diax)
Yes. (neutral) ki (k’i)
No. ara (ara)
Hello. gamarjoba (gamardjoba)
Hello (back) gaumarjos (gaumardjos)
Good morning. dila mSvidobisa (dila mshvidobisa)
Good afternoon. dRe mSvidobisa (dghe mshvidobisa)
Good evening. saRamo mSvidobisa (saghamo mshvidobisa)
Good night. Rame mSvidobisa (ghame mshvidobisa)
How are you? rogor xar? (rogor xar?)
Fine, and you? kargad da Sen? (k’argad da shen?)
How are you? (Polite) rogor brZandebiT? (rogor brdzandebit?)
Fine, and you? (Polite) kargad da Tqven? (k’argad da tkven?)
Thank you. gmadlobT (gmadlobt)
Thanks. madloba (madloba)
Good bye. naxvamdis (naxvamdis)
Good bye (Other form) mSvidobiT (mshvidobit)
Please. Tu SeiZleba (tu sheidzleba)
Please (Other form) gTxovT (gtxovt)
Excuse me. ukacravad (uk’atsravad)
Sorry. bodiSi (bodishi)
Sorry (Other form) mapatieT (map’at’iet)
Do you speak any English/ Russian? laparakobT inglisurad/rusulad?

(lap’arak’obt inglisurad/ rusulad?)
Sorry, I don’t understand. ukacravad ver gavige (uk’atsravad, ver gavige)
I don’t speak Georgian. ar vici qarTuli (ar vitsi kartuli)
Can you repeat please? SegiZliaT, gaimeoroT? (shegidzliat gaimeorot?)
Can you speak slower? SeiZleba, cota nela ilaparakoT? (sheidzleba
tsot’a nela ilap’arak’ot?)
What is your name? ra gqviaT? (ra gkviat?)

My name is Giorgi. me mqvia giorgi (me mkvia giorgi)
Where are you from? sadauri xar? (sadauri xar?)
I’m from Poland. me poloneTidan var (me p’olonetidan var)
Where do you live? sad cxovrob? (sad tsxovrob?)
140 . . . The Georgian Language . . .

I’m living in Tbilisi. me TbilisSi vcxovrob (tbilisshi vtsxovrob)
I am a volunteer. me moxalise var (me moxalise var)
What is this? ra aris es? (ra aris es?)

How is this called? amas ra qvia? (amas ra kvia?)
How much does it cost? ra Rirs? (ra ghirs?)
I would like this. ai, es, Tu SeiZleba (ai, es, tu sheidzleba)
It is expensive. Zviria (dzviria)
Help! miSveleT! damexmareT! (mishvelet! damexmaret!)

Go away! damanebe Tavi! (damanebe tavi)
Orientation
Where is this station? sad aris es sadguri? (sad aris es sadguri?)
What is the name of this street? es ra quCaa? (es ra kuchaa?)
Where is Asatiani Street? sad aris asaTianis quCa? (sad aris asatianis
kucha?)
Which bus number is going to Abashidze Street? ra nomeri avtobusi midis
abaSiZis quCaze? (ra nomeri avt’obusi midis abashidzis kuchaze?)
Is this bus going to Mtshketa? es avtobusi mcxeTaSi midis? (es avt’obusi
mtsxetashi midis?)
How much to go to Freedom Square? Tavisuflebis moednamde ra
Rirs? (tavisuplebis moednamde ra ghirs?)
Is it far? Is it close? Sorsaa? axlosaa? (shorsaa? axlosaa?)
To the right/ to the left. marjvniv / marcxniv (mardjvniv/ martsxniv)
Here / There. aq / iq (ak/ ik)
Stop here! aq gaaCereT! (ak gaacheret!)
Stop at the corner! kuTxeSi gaaCereT! (k’utxeshi gaacheret!)
Stop at the metro station! metrosTan gaaCereT! (met’rostan gaacheret!)
Numbers
One erTi (erti) Six eqvsi (ekvsi)
Two ori (ori) Seven Svidi (shvidi)
Three sami (sami) Eight rva (rva)
Four oTxi (otxi) Nine cxra (tsxra)
Five xuTi (xuti) Ten aTi (ati)
. . . The Georgian Language . . . 141

Eleven TerTmeti (tertmet’i) Twenty one ocdaerTi (otsdaerti)
Twelve Tormeti (tormet’i) Twenty two ocdaori (otsdaori)
Thirteen cameti (tsamet’i) Thirty ocdaaTi (otsdaati)
Fourteen ToTxmeti (totxmet’i) Forty ormoci (ormotsi)
Fifteen TxuTmeti (txutmet’i) Fifty ormocdaaTi (ormotsdaati)
Sixteen Teqvsmeti (tek’vsmet’i) Sixty samoci (samotsi)
Seventeen Cvidmeti (chvidmet’i) Seventy samocdaaTi (samotsdaati)
Eighteen Tvrameti (tvramet’i) Eighty oTxmoci (otxmotsi)
Nineteen cxrameti (tsxramet’i) Ninety oTxmocdaaTi (otxmotsdaati)
Twenty oci (otsi) Hundred asi (asi)
Countries
Georgia saqarTvelo (sakartvelo)
Armenia somxeTi (somxeti)
Azerbaijan azerbaijaini (azerbaidjaini)
Turkey TurqeTi (turketi)
Russia ruseTi (ruseti)
Cities
Bakuriani bakuriani
Batumi baTumi
Borjomi borjomi
Gori gori
Kazbegi yazbegi
Kutaisi quTaisi
Mestia mestia
Mtskheta mcxeTa
Poti foTi
Rustavi rusTavi
Tbilisi Tbilisi
Telavi Telavi
Zugdidi zugdidi
142 . . . The Georgian Language . . .

. . . The Georgian Language . . . 143
Acknowledgements
This handbook is an initiative of the Academy for Peace and Development (APD),
an international youth organisation located in Tbilisi, Georgia, which is dedicated
to promoting peace and cultural diversity in Southern Caucasus. More information
about the organisation and its activities on www.apd.ge
The handbook owes a debt of gratitude to those who wrote testimonies, shared ex-
periences, opinions and were of great inspiration during the writing process. Those
people, who will for sure smile when recognising that this note is written for them,
were of considerable and valuable help by listening at any time to questions and
requests, by giving advice and inspiration and by being patient at both professional
and personal levels, especially when the only interest of the authors was this han-
dbook.
A special thanks goes to three volunteers Helve Rammul, Maartje Schrama and Inge
Snip for their contributions to the handbook.
The first versions of the handbook were influenced by a mix of different languages
daily used in Georgia by the authors. That is why they especially want to express
their deep gratitude to Dr. Jacques Coulardeau, University of Paris 1 Panthéon Sor-
bonne, for his proofreading of the final written version before publication. (Contact:
8 rue de la Chaussée, BP 9, 63880 Olliergues, France / +33(0)473.955.917)
The authors express their regards to those who carefully and critically read some
sections or the whole handbook and contributed their comments and suggestions
to the final version.
Last but not least, the authors are sincerely thankful that the publication of the
present handbook was made possible by the support of the Academy for Peace
and Development (APD), the SALTO-EECA Resource Centre, The Danish National
Agency of the Youth in Action programme (Danish Agency for Universities and In-
ternationalisation) and the SALTO Multipliers in Georgia - Giorgi Kakulia, Rusidan
Kalichava, Giorgi Kikalishvili, Pavle Tvaliashvili and Aleks Metreveli.
Market near Kobuleti

145
Authors
This Handbook was written and designed by Sebastian Schweitzer and Tiphaine
Coulardeau.
Tiphaine Coulardeau, a former European Volunteer in the Academy for Peace and
Development in 2007-2008, studied Architecture, Urbanism and Cultural Heritage
management in developing contexts in Toulouse, Eindhoven, Barcelona and Torino.
Since 2009 she is based in Berlin where she works as programme coordinator for
the European Intercultural Forum e. V. a NGO active in international youth work
and capacity development of civil society organisations. Amongst others Tiphaine
coordinates the Volunteering Programme in EIF sending EVS volunteers to the
South Caucasus. More information on www.european-intercultural-forum.org
Sebastian Schweitzer went to Georgia for European Voluntary Service in 2006-2007

after he graduated in Political Sciences focusing on political transformation proces-
ses in Post-Soviet countries at the University of Potsdam. He worked in Germany
on political education and has been involved for ten years in European projects,
particularly in international youth work. Currently he is working as a freelance
trainer and consultant for civil society organisations in the Caucasus and the Balk-
ans on different topics such as conflict transformation, project management, youth
participation and citizenship and Intercultural Learning.
When writing this handbook both authors gained a deeper understanding of Inter-
cultural Learning processes. Indeed, they enjoyed sharing their views and percep-
tions of Georgian culture.
To contact the authors: sakartvelo.handbook@gmail.com
Tea Fields inside the Gonio Fortress, 12km South of Batumi

147
148
Georgia
Anecdote of a European Volunteer in Georgia
The Trip to the Post Office. “At the beginning of my stay in Georgia, a colleague of
mine proposed to accompany me to the Post Office to pick up a parcel. It was the be-
ginning of the afternoon, during office hours, and I definitely thought that this excursion
will take one hour maximum. But, I did not consider Georgian timing.The trip to the Post
Office ended up to be a trip to many places all around the city: going to the bank to get
important papers, buying a donut on the way, going back to the bank to get some for-
gotten document, making a phone call, stopping at the donut shop for the Donut we did
not get the first time, visiting the new attraction park just to see and take a picture, etc...
The trip took finally a few hours and I definitely got impressed how time is extendable!
From then on, when a Georgian proposed me to go somewhere, I made sure that I did
not have any obligation for the next coming hours!”
Volga Car,Tbilisi
Urgent Phone Bills. “Using a landline at home and not having paid the bills for
a few months, we once got a phone call asking us to come to the main office to pay
our phone bill.When we arrived at the office the clerk provided us with the detail of
the calls, but the bill contained some calls which were not ours and which had been
made more than two years before.We kindly asked if it was possible to pay just for our
own calls but unfortunately the clerk answered that no, we had to pay the whole bill.
Considering the high level of it and its obvious “emergency”, we decided this bill could
wait a few more months...Three months later we still had a working landline and a very
urgent bill to pay!”
Public Phones,Tbilisi
Asking the Way... “Wishing to go to the cave town of David Gareji with some
friends, we decided to take a marshrutka to Sagarejo and from there share a taxi.
Arriving on the main square of Sagarejo, we were a bit confused because no taxis were
around. So, to play it safe, we asked a policeman.The policeman after discussing for ten
minutes in a quite animated conversation with his colleagues brought us to the Police
Station.Though we did not understand what was going on and were afraid of wasting
our time, we were informed that everything was under control and that we will soon
meet the Police Superintendant of Sagarejo district and that he will arrange something
for us.We ended up in the office of the Superintendant and after one hour of small
talk and play with the puppy the Superintendant just bought for his children, two men
brought us to an amazing glass tinted car, bought us some sodas and started taking on
a crazy ride to the cave town.The day trip finished, as could be expected, in a restaurant
for a Georgian dinner with vodka and toast with these two Georgian policemen!”
Tchuchrelas and Svan hats on the way to Kazbegi

Cocktail Bar. “I remember one evening I went to a very nice Art Lounge cocktail bar
with a date: cosy place, nice music, scenic atmosphere and great menu…but the cocktail
menu was tricky! We tried to order cocktails but the waiter spoke neither English nor
Russian.We finally managed to communicate thanks to a friend of the waiter’s: he kindly
told us that if we wished some cocktails we should go to the bar to make them oursel-
ves! As making cocktails is one of my hobbies, I did not mind to make a small show. So I
went to the bar, asked for a shaker and some ice and took the needed bottles from the
bar shelf. I properly crushed the ice, supplemented the process with a dancing show of
my own and when all attention was captured by the foreigners making cocktails, I mana-
ged to conjure two delicious “Sex on the Beach”! We enjoyed these fabulous “self-made”
cocktails and I will always remember my perfect date in this Georgian Cocktail Bar!”
Grapes, Kakheti Region

The Supra I Will Never Forget. “I attended a lot of Georgian feasts but this one I
will never forget. After a friend of mine had had one of his relatives’ child christened, we
all went to have a supra together. A lot of people were there and we were squeezed all
around the table. As usual, food and wine never finished and I can really not remember
how we went back home and how much wine we drank, but one toast I will ever keep
in mind: when the priest that christened the child had to leave, he was invited to make
a toast. His toast was for all the women on earth and particularly for those around the
table, but uncommonly in Georgia he asked all women to stand up and join the already
standing men. He explained that according to Georgian tradition man and woman are
equal and that this is unfortunately often forgotten by a lot of people...”
History Museum in Likhauri, Guria

A Handbook
Georgia is a mysterious country for
most people all around the world.
This handbook is dedicated to all
brave young people just dreaming
or already packing to confront
themselves to their Georgian
adventure to come as European
Volunteers.
Reading this booklet will give these

newly-hatched volunteers some
sense of orientation in the confusing
reality of their new environment
with plenty of unknown events,
circumstances, encounters, haps and
mishaps in a sonic dramatic decor
of particularly obscure expressions
like ... Marshrutka, Giorgoba, Mts-
kheta, Khvanchkara...

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Volunteering in Georgia

Authors: Tiphaine Coulardeau and Sebastian Schweitzer

Dear volunteers going to Georgia,

Your upcoming experience of the European Voluntary Service (EVS) is certainly

027 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

I | FACTS AND FIGURES

045 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

II | ARTS, CRAFTS AND CUSTOMS

073 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

III | DAY-TO-DAY TOIL

105 | European Volunteer’s Testimony

125 | CONCLUDING REMARKS

139 | THE GEORGIAN LANGUAGE

View of Tbilisi from Surrounding Hills

Instead, this handbook’s topic is volunteering in Georgia and it is structured along

As the handbook is dedicated to current or future volunteers it is available as a free down-

One can volunteer everywhere, at home or in foreign countries. The difference

Gergeti Trinity Church, 2400m of Altitude, near Mount Kazbeg

These impacts, positive or negative, are not specific to volunteering in Georgia.They

Georgia being a country in transition undergoing a shift from a socialist economy

Therefore, this handbook is organised as follows. After a short overview on the

The European Voluntary Service (EVS) is a programme established to offer a “lear-

A European Volunteer can take part in the activities of organisations committed to

Artificial Lake near Ananuri

“Youth in Action!” This is the name of the programme dedicated to youth by

Sending Organisation. Volunteers are sent by a given organisation from their

Coordinator. This person, working in the hosting organisation, acts in cooperation

Volunteer Allowance. It is the money the volunteer receives as personal pocket

Insurance. A European volunteer has insurance coverage at AXA Insurance Com-

View on the Harbour, Batumi

Wine Red Clay Amphora, Open Air Museum of Ethnography,Tbilisi

030 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 031

In 2003, Eduard Shevardnadze resi-

032 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 033

034 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

The rate of unemployment in Georgia Languages. Georgia has two official

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 035

Religion. Georgia was the second state

Holidays. The Official holidays are:

036 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 037

Human Rights. Georgia is classified Inclusion of Minorities. Several

038 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 039

040 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

. . . Facts and Figures . . . 041

Volunteers in Georgia can have a direct

042 . . . Facts and Figures . . .

Warm Sulphur Springs, near Zugdidi

Men in Traditional Costumes

048 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . .

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 049

King Vakhtang and Tbilisi. The crea-

King Vakhtang had been hunting the

At the end of the hunting day, King

Since then, Tbilisi has been the capital

050 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . .

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 051

052 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . .

. . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . . 053

054 . . . Arts, Crafts and Customs . . .