E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L

TOP
ISTANBUL
MELISSA SHALES
Top 10 Istanbul
Highlights
Welcome to Istanbul ...................... 5
Exploring Istanbul .......................... 6
Istanbul Highlights....................... 10
Topkapı Palace ............................. 12
Haghia Sophia .............................. 16
Blue Mosque ................................ 18
Archaeological Museum.............. 20
Grand Bazaar ............................... 22
Süleymaniye Mosque Complex... 26
Church of St Saviour
in Chora..................................... 28
Çemberlitaş Baths....................... 30
Dolmabahçe Palace..................... 32
Bosphorus Cruise ........................ 34
The Top 10
of Everything
Moments in History ..................... 38
Byzantine Monuments ................ 40
Places of Worship ........................ 42
Museums and Galleries .............. 44
Off the Beaten Track.................... 46
Culinary Highlights ...................... 48
Restaurants.................................. 50
Shops and Markets...................... 52
Istanbul for Free........................... 54
Festivals and Events .................... 56

Istanbul
Area by Area
Sultanahmet and
the Old City ............................... 60
Bazaar Quarter
and Eminönü ............................ 68
The Golden Horn,
Fatih and Fener ........................ 74
Beyoğlu ......................................... 82
The Bosphorus............................. 90
Asian Istanbul and
Princes’ Islands ........................ 96
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit.
Front cover and spine The domes of Hagia
Sophia facing the Blue Mosque
Back cover Cityscape of Istanbul with
Süleymaniye Mosque and part of Golden Horn
Title page Interior of Sultanahmet Mosque
CONTENTS
Streetsmart
Getting To and Around
Istanbul ...................................104
Practical Information .................106
Places to Stay .............................112
General Index .............................118
Acknowledgments .....................125
Phrase Book...............................126
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10
Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
material on third party websites, and cannot
guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness
Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
travelguides@dk.com
 Top 10 Istanbul ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Istanbul
Istanbul is unique. No other city straddles two continents.
No other city has been capital of two mighty empires. Its
venerable churches, mosques and palaces do justice to
its incredible past. This teeming metropolis of 14 million
has a vibrant present, too, as a hotbed of the arts, and a
shoppers’, clubbers’ and foodies’ paradise. Explore it all
with Eyewitness Top 10 Istanbul.

The city is defined by the sea. Imagine yourself on a ferry, hopping

across the continent-dividing Bosphorus Strait for lunch in Asia;
gazing out from the rooftop of your Sultanahmet hotel to the
coruscating Sea of Marmara; or on a ferry up the Golden Horn,
watching the exotic mosque-filled skyline of the Old City unfold.
Istanbul is a city of contrasts, too. The ancient cathedral of Haghia
Sophia is breathtaking; so is the ultra-cool Istanbul Modern gallery.
Wander the backstreets of devout Fatih among bearded acolytes
from the medreses by day; at night sip a cocktail in a chic rooftop
bar in Beyoğlu, the heart of modern European Istanbul.

It isn’t just the Bosphorus that divides Istanbul. The Old City sits
on a hilly peninsula pointing at Asia. Here, Byzantine monuments,
Ottoman mosques, historic markets such as the Grand Bazaar, and
venerable Turkish baths predominate. Across the Golden Horn in
Galata and Beyoğlu, three million shoppers, diners, and bar and
gallery hoppers throng the main thoroughfare, İstiklal Caddesi, on
any given weekend. Hip Istanbulites party here until 6am.

Whether you’re here for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide will
introduce you to the cream of everything the city has to offer. It is full
of tips, from what to do for free to finding those off-the-beaten-track
gems. With eight, easy-to-follow itineraries, Top 10 Istanbul will
ensure you maximize your valuable time. Throw in handy maps and
top-notch photographs and you have the ideal guide to one of the
world’s truly great cities. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Istanbul.

Clockwise from top: Haghia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Rumeli Hisari Fortress,
Eyüp Sultan Mosque, the Galata Tower and Golden Horn, Great Palace Mosaic Museum
 6 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul
Ayvansaray
Ayvansaray

Exploring Istanbul ferryferry

pierpier

With so much to see and do in this

continent-straddling city, it’s sometimes Theodosian BALAT
Theodosian

FER
FER
BALAT
Walls
Walls
hard to know where to begin. In order

R
R
Y
Y
to help you make the most of your Church
Church of of
G

time, here are a few ideas for two St Saviour

St Saviour in Chora
in Chora

and four days of sightseeing in Istanbul.

FENER
FENER

CA
CA
B
B
KARAGÜMRÜK
KARAGÜMRÜK

FATİH
FATİH

S
SARAÇHANE
SARAÇHANE

0 metres
0 metres 10001000
0 yards
0 yards 10001000
AKSARAY
AKSARAY

Haghia Sophia’s massive

dome is considered to be
the epitome of Byzantine
architecture.

Two Days in Istanbul Four Days in Istanbul

Day 1
MORNING
Admire the soaring dome and
glittering mosaics of Haghia Sophia
(see pp16–17), then head off to explore
the vast Blue Mosque (see pp18–19).
AFTERNOON
Visit the sprawling Topkapı Palace
(see pp12–15), the nerve-centre of the
Ottoman Empire. Afterwards relax in
the Çemberlitaş Baths (see pp30–31).
Day 2
MORNING
Explore the Archaeological Museum
(see pp20–21), full of artifacts from the
Ottoman Empire’s former domains.
AFTERNOON
Stroll to the top of the Old City’s third
hill to the Süleymaniye Mosque
Complex (see pp26–7), which offers
views of the Bosphorus from its
terrace. Then head back down to the
bustling Grand Bazaar (see pp22–3)
to weave through its 4,000 shops.
Day 1
MORNING
Spend most of the morning in the
Byzantine cathedral of Haghia
Sophia (see pp16–17), before
descending into the eerie depths
of the Basilica Cistern (see p63).
AFTERNOON
Catch a ferry up the Golden Horn to
Ayvansaray and walk the line of the
Theodosian Walls (see p77) to the
fresco-filled wonder of the Church
of St Saviour in Chora (see pp28–9).
Recover in the steaming Çemberlitaş
Baths (see pp30–31).
Day 2
MORNING
Start fresh in the airy courtyards
and pavilions of the Topkapı Palace
(see pp12–15) before walking across
Sultanahmet Meydan park to the
nearby Blue Mosque (see pp18–19).
Lunch in a tradesman’s cafe in the
Grand Bazaar (see pp22–3).
 Exploring Istanbul ❮❮ 7
Dolmabahçe
Dolmabahçe
Palace
Palace

Taksim
Taksim
Square
Square
CAB CAB Bosphorus
Bosphorus

B
B
CA
CA
Nevizade
Nevizade Cruise
Cruise
KASIMPAŞA
KASIMPAŞA Sokak
Sokak Kabataş
Kabataş
İstiklal
İstiklal tramtram
stopstop
Caddesi
Caddesi
Go Go
lde lde s s
n n ŞİŞHANE
ŞİŞHANE GALATASARAY
GALATASARAY u u

sp or
r
ho
Bo ph
s
Bo
Ho
Ho

BEYOĞLU
BEYOĞLU M M
TRA TRA
rn
rn

KARAKÖY
KARAKÖY RY RY
FER FER
FE R FE R
RY RY

Galata
Galata
Bridge
Bridge

Egyptian
Egyptian
Bazaar
Bazaar Eminönü
Eminönü
ferryferry
pierpier

Süleymaniye
Süleymaniye Archaeological
Archaeological
Mosque
Mosque Museum
Museum
Complex
Complex Çemberlitaş
Çemberlitaş
CA CA GrandGrand BathsBaths
B B Topkapı
Topkapı
Bazaar
Bazaar Palace
Palace

ÇARSIKAPI
ÇARSIKAPI Basilica
Basilica Haghia
Haghia
Sophia
Sophia Dolmabahçe Palace’s
Cistern
Cistern 19th-century clock tower stands
SULTANAHMET
SULTANAHMET
BlueBlue on a square along the European
Mosque
Mosque
waterfront of the Bosphorus.

Key
Two-day itinerary
Four-day itinerary

The bustling Eminönü

waterfront viewed from
the Galata Bridge.

AFTERNOON
After exploring the bazaar, walk up to
Süleymaniye Mosque Complex (see
pp26–7) then down to the Egyptian
Bazaar (see pp70–71) and Eminönü
(see p70) waterfront. Lunch on a fish
sandwich by Galata Bridge (see p70).
Day 3
MORNING
Enjoy the splendours of the Archae-
ological Museum (see pp20–21)
before taking a tram across the
Golden Horn to Kabataş, then a cab
or bus to the opulent, Baroque-style
Dolmabahçe Palace (see pp32–3),
home to the later Ottoman sultans.
AFTERNOON
After exploring Dolmabahçe Palace,
take a cab up to Taksim Square (see
p84). Walk down the city’s premier
shopping and entertainment street,
İstiklal Caddesi (see p86), and enjoy
a meal at a lively meyhane (tavern)
on Nevizade Sokak (see p89).
Day 4
ALL DAY
Around 10:30am, depart from the
Eminönü waterfront on the all-day
Bosphorus Cruise (see pp34–5).
Enjoy fantastic views of the city’s
shoreline before lingering over a fish
lunch in Anadolu Kavağı (see p94).
Top 10 Istanbul
Highlights

The monumental Byzantine church

of Haghia Sophia
Istanbul Highlights 10 Süleymaniye Mosque Complex 26
Topkapı Palace 12 Church of St Saviour
in Chora 28
Haghia Sophia 16
Çemberlitaş Baths 30
Blue Mosque 18
Dolmabahçe Palace 32
Archaeological Museum 20
Bosphorus Cruise 34
Grand Bazaar 22
 10 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Istanbul Highlights
Istanbul is one of the greatest cities the world has ever known.
Inhabited for at least 8,000 years, it was capital of two of the
world’s most powerful empires – those of the Byzantines and
the Ottomans – and its every stone is steeped in history. The
highlights are easy; you can cover the major attractions in the
first couple of days. But after that, the choice can be overwhelming,
especially as this ancient city is reinventing itself once more as
a modern centre for nightlife, food and shopping. The only answer
is to come back again and again to this endlessly fascinating city.

1 Topkapı Palace ME L ME L

DEM
DEM
E E
BALAT
BALAT
A palace fit for

İR H
İR H R C

Z
Z
SO
SO
K
Go Go

İS
İS
a sultan, the Topkapı

A
AR D
ld ld

CA
en en

A
was not only a royal

D
FENER
FENER H H
FET FET or or
residence, but also H H İY BD BD
n n

A
A
C A DİY
C AE D E ÜL ÜL
E ZE E ZE
L L
the Ottoman Empire’s İ
ES ES
İ
FE
FE

D D

PA
PA
centre of government
VZ
VZ

D D A
CA CA

ŞA
ŞA
İP
İP AC

D A R Ü Ş Ş A FA K A AC K A
D A R Ü Ş Ş A FA K A
K
AŞ
AŞ

CADD E S İ
CADD E S İ

(see pp12–15).

CA
CA
A

AD AD D D
LİÇ
LİÇ
C

D D
HA
HA
ES
ES
İ
İ

K E Ç EKCE İÇLEECRİ LCEAR C A

D D
M
M
AC

FATİHD
FATİH
AR
AR RD

VA V D
TA ATA CA CA
KA EŞ L

Z Z
Nİ Nİ
I
I
RD

AR
AR
N N
DE KDE
EŞ

ER E
LV
LV

AK CA R CA
L

A
BU
BU

D D
CA CA
D D
D D
ES ES
SARAÇHANE
SARAÇHANE
İ İ B
ATAT Ü R K
ATAT Ü R K

Mİ Mİ
LLE LLE
T C AT C A
D D EDS D
İ ESİ O R DOURCDAUDCDAED
S İD E S İ

AKSARAY
AKSARAY
Ç
0 metres
0 metres 750750
KUMKAPI
KUMKAP

2 Haghia Sophia
One of the most revered icons of the
0 yards
0 yards 750750

Christian church, Haghia Sophia has stood

for 1,500 years – a miraculous feat of design
and engineering that has outlived two
great empires (see pp16–17).

3 Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmet I’s
stunningly impressive
mosque is one of
the world’s most
4 Archaeological
Museum
famous religious Turkey’s world-class
buildings. “Blue” national collection contains
on account of ancient treasures from
the delicately across the Ottoman Empire
patterned İznik and beyond, including
tiles that adorn artifacts from Babylon,
the interior Syria, Egypt, Greece, Rome
(see pp18–19). and Persia (see pp20–21).
 ❮❮ 11

Süleymaniye
Mosque Complex 6
Sultan Süleyman I built this
magnificent mosque
to glorify Allah and his
5 Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar remains a
own rule. The architect
was the exceptional
true Turkish delight, a shopaholic’s Sinan, who designed
fantasy that is also a photo- over 400 buildings
grapher’s dream (see pp22–3). throughout the empire
(see pp26–7).
Sİ Sİ
DE DE

7 Church of
C A DC A D
RE RE
P LDAE P D E
D O LDAO
D TADK STA
İ MK S İ M
C A C A M E YDA
Ş I Ş I M E YDA
A B AA B A
NI NI St Saviour
TA R LTA R L
KABATAŞ
KABATAŞ in Chora
K
TEPEBAŞI
TEPEBAŞI With more than 100
YE
YE

GALATASARAY
GALATASARAY
beautiful early-14th-
Nİ
Nİ
ÇA
ÇA

D
D
RŞI
RŞI

century mosaics and

CA
CA

ŞİŞHANE
ŞİŞHANE
CAD
CAD

E E CA CA
NE NE
EY EY
TİB TİB frescoes, this church is
AD AD
U Z URZ R
LC LDCE D E S İ
YO KYEON KEESNİ BEYOĞLU
E BEYOĞLU one of the city’s most
Atatürkİ S A Dİ SD A D D
important Byzantine
Atatürk
Köprüsü
Köprüsü C C

KARAKÖY
KARAKÖY s s
ru ru
treasures (see pp28–9).
Golden
Golden
HornHorn ho ho
s po s p
Çemberlitaş
8
Metro
Metro
Bridge
Bridge o
Galata
Galata B B

Baths
Köprüsü
Köprüsü

EMİNÖNÜ
EMİNÖNÜ K E N KNEENDN
D D
Y E DCYA DC AE SDİ E S İ Relaxing beneath the marble
Gülhane
Gülhane domes of these traditional
BEYAZIT
BEYAZIT
Parkı
Parkı baths offers a cleansing,
CAĞALOĞLU
CAĞALOĞLU cultural and reviving
DESİ
DESİ

experience (see pp30–31).

CAD
CAD

YE NİYE
ÇENİ ÇE
RİL ERRİL ER
CA D CA D Dİ VADİ
NY VA NY
OL U OL U

9 Dolmabahçe
CA DCA D
ÇARŞIKAPI
ÇARŞIKAPI
Y
Y

Palace
ED
ED
N
N

PI
N
N

SULTANAHMET
SULTANAHMET
KE
KE

This 19th-century
Occidental fantasy
was commissioned
by Sultan Abdül
Mecit. The decision
to build a lavishly
0 Bosphorus Cruise
Take to the water on a ferry trip
opulent palace almost
bankrupted the
up the Bosphorus. The air is clean, Treasury, and in the
the pace unhurried and, best of all, end could be financed
sightseeing can be done from only by foreign loans
the deck (see pp34–5). (see pp32–3).
 12 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Topkapı Palace
Fresh from his conquest of Constantinople, Mehmet II built Topkapı
Sarayı as his main residence between 1460 and 1478. He planned it
as a series of pavilions in four courtyards – a tribute in stone to the
tent encampments of his nomadic forebears. Mehmet’s palace was
also the seat of government, and had a college for training officials
and soldiers. While government moved across the road to the
Sublime Porte in the 16th century, Topkapı continued as the sultan’s
palace until Abdül Mecit I moved to Dolmabahçe Palace in 1856.

1 Imperial Gate
(Bâb-ı Hümayun)
Built in 1478, this gate is the main
entrance to the palace, with gate-
keepers’ quarters on either side. An
apartment belonging to Mehmet II above
the gate was destroyed by fire in 1866.

Topkapı Palace

2 Harem
A maze of rooms and corridors 5 Kitchens
These huge kitchens once catered
(above), the Harem was a closed for 1,000 people a day. On
world occupied by the sultan’s display is a collection of
wives, concubines and children. ceramics (left), crystal
and silver, including
3 First Courtyard
(Alay Meydanı)
the Chinese celadon
ware favoured by
This vast outer courtyard takes early sultans.
in Gülhane Park, Sirkeci, the
church of Haghia Eirene (Aya
İrini Kilisesi) and the imposing
6 Throne Room
(Arz Odası)
Archaeological Museum. In the Throne Room
(below), the Sultan would
4 Gate of Salutations
(Bâb-üs Selâm)
consult his ministers and
governors, welcome
At this elaborate gate (left), ambassadors and other
built in 1524, visitors were dignitaries, and host
greeted, and high officials smaller state occasions.
who had upset the sultan
were arrested and
beheaded. The gateway
leads into the Second
Courtyard (Divan Meydanı),
where the Treasury now
has a magnificent display
of arms and armour.
 Topkapı Palace ❮❮ 13

Entrance 3 0
RELIGIOUS RELICS
The Pavilion of the Holy Mantle (Has
Oda Koğuşu) contains several of
2
Islam’s holiest relics. Exhibits include
hairs from the Prophet’s beard, one
of his teeth, two of his swords and
1 the sacred standard used during his
military campaigns. The most impor­
tant relic of all is the Holy Mantle, a
4 5 689 7 plain black camel­hair cloak that the
Prophet gave as a present to a poet.
Once a year, it was displayed to high
officials then doused in water; the
drops squeezed from it were sent
out as talismans against the plague.

0 Imperial Sofa
(Sofa-ı-Hümayun)
The Imperial Sofa (below) was a
place to relax, its gardens studded
with pavilions built by successive
sultans. The finest is the Baghdad
Pavilion (Bağdat Köşkü).

7 Third Courtyard
(Enderûn Meydanı)
The Gate of Felicity (Bâb-üş Saade) leads
to the Third Courtyard, containing the NEED TO KNOW
sultan’s private quarters and those of
MAP S3 • Babıhümayun Cad
the Harem’s white eunuchs. • (0212) 512 04 80

8 Imperial Wardrobe
• www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr

(Seferli Koğuşu) Open Palace: Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm,

Fittingly, the Imperial Wardrobe is now
the home of the costume museum, a
sumptuous collection of some 3,000
elaborately embroidered royal robes.
Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Wed–Mon.
Adm: ¨ 30
Harem: Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm, Nov–
Mar: 9am–4:30pm Wed–Mon.
Adm: ¨ 15

9 Treasury
(Hazine Koğuşu)
Haghia Eirene: 9am–5pm. Adm: ¨ 20

With exhibits
• Expect long queues at the
including the Pavilion of the Holy Mantle and
Treasury.
jewel-encrusted
Topkapı Dagger • There is a restaurant, Karakol,
and the amazing (0212) 514 94 94, in the first
86-carat courtyard, and another good
Spoonmaker’s restaurant, Konyalı, in the fourth.
Diamond (right), the The latter is a good place to try
Topkapı Treasury may Ottoman court cuisine, but it can be
be the most ostentatious collection of crowded. Book a table in advance
on (0212) 513 96 96.
wealth ever gathered outside of the
legendary Aladdin’s cave.
 14 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights
Features of the Topkapı Harem
1 Barracks of the
Black Eunuchs
Apart from the sultan and his
sons, the only men allowed into
the Harem were the black eunuchs,
up to 200 slaves from Sudan and
Ethiopia. Their barracks lie on
one side of the Courtyard of the
Black Eunuchs, with its arcade
of marble columns.
Courtyard of the Concubines
Courtyard of
2 the Concubines
This colonnaded courtyard lies
beside the Harem Baths. As many
as 300 concubines lived in the
Harem at any one time.
3 Golden Cage
Mehmet III became sultan in
1595, following the murder of all but
one of his 19 brothers. After that,
heirs to the throne were kept in the
“Golden Cage”, a secure area of the
Harem, until they were needed. As a
result, many were weak and ill-fitted
for rule when they took the throne.
4 Wives’ Apartments
The sultan’s wives (under
Islamic law, he was allowed four)
also had their own apartments.
While wives took formal precedence
in the Harem hierarchy, the real
power lay with the sultan’s favourites
and mother. Occasionally, a sultan
would marry a concubine – as in the
case of Süleyman I, who married his
beloved Roxelana (known in Turkish
as Haseki Hürrem).
5 Salon of the
Valide Sultan
The valide sultan (sultan’s mother)
was by far the most powerful woman
in the palace, and enjoyed the use of
some of the best rooms in the Harem.
6 Sultan’s Apartments
The sultan spent much of his
off-duty time in his suite within the
Harem. Look out for the gilded bed-
room of Sultan Abdül Hamit I (1774–
89), the Hall of Murat III (1574–95)
and the beautiful Fruit Room.
7 Imperial Baths
Next to each other at the
centre of the complex are the baths
of the sultan and the valide sultan,
both elegantly faced with marble.
8 Imperial Hall
In the Imperial Hall, the
sultan entertained his closest
friends. Although the hall was within
the Harem, only a few women – the
sultan’s mother, chief wife, favourites
and daughters – were allowed entry.
9 Favourites’ Apartments
Haseki (favourites) who bore a
child received their own apartments
and their freedom (if slaves). After the
sultan’s death, those who had borne
only daughters were married out of
the Harem or moved to the old palace;
those with sons stayed in the palace.
Favourites’ Apartments
0 Golden Way
This long, dark passage was
so called because, on festivals, the
Sultan would scatter gold coins here
for the members of the Harem.
 Topkapı Palace ❮❮ 15

LIFE IN THE HAREM

Behind the doors of the Harem, life was far TOP 10
less exciting than it was portrayed to be in OTTOMAN WOMEN
the breathless accounts of 19th-century 1 Hafsa Sultan
European commentators. There was (mother of Süleyman I)
undoubtedly intrigue and, if a woman was 2 Roxelana
fortunate enough to be one of the sultan’s (wife of Süleyman)
favourites, she might well develop a taste
3 Nurbanu Sultan (wife
for lavish comfort and lovely gifts, yet daily of Selim II, daughter-in-
existence for most was mundane – even dully law of Süleyman)
routine. The Harem was less a den of 4 Mihrimah (daughter of
vice than a family home and Süleyman, wife of Grand
girls’ school. Of its 1,000 or Vizier Rüstem Paşa)
so occupants, more than 5 Safiye Sultan
two-thirds were servants (mother of Mehmet III)
or royal children, while 6 Handan Sultan
concubines – who usually (wife of Mehmet III)
arrived between the ages 7 Kösem Sultan
of 5 and 12 – spent years (wife of Ahmet I)
living in dormitories and 8 Turhan Hatice Sultan
undergoing a thorough (mother of Mehmet IV)
education before 9 Nakşidil Sultan
being introduced (mother of Mahmut II)
to the sultan.
10 Bezmialem (wife
of Mahmut II, mother of
Abdül Mecit I)
Princess Mihrimah
(1522–78),
daughter of
Sϋleyman I

Women Drinking Coffee (1720s), by Jean-Baptiste Vanmour, is part

of a collection of European art depicting life in the Harem. It is on
display in the Pera Museum (see p44).
 16 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Haghia Sophia
Haghia Sophia, the Church of Holy Wisdom (Ayasofya in Turkish),
is an awe-inspiring expression of religious faith and one of the
world’s foremost architectural wonders. The first church on the
site burned down in 404, the second was destroyed during the
Nika Riots of 532, but the third – inaugurated by Emperor Justinian
in 537 – stands firm today, despite countless wars and earthquakes,
a blazing beacon to the faith of its creators. The church was converted
into a mosque in 1453. Since 1935, it has been a museum.
Exterior
Its deep red walls are
1
surmounted by a central dome and
flanked by two semidomes on both
sides. The main building is much as it
was in the 6th century – except for the
buttresses added to secure the
structure, which, unfortunately, partly
obscure the original shape (right).

2 Galleries
Women used the galleries
for prayer. There are splendid votive
mosaics in the south gallery: look out
for Christ Pantocrator (Almighty) with
John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary;
and Jesus Christ flanked by Empress
Zoe and Emperor Constantine IX
Monomachus (below).

4 Weeping Pillar
Emperor Justinian rested his
aching head against the damp stone
of this pillar and was instantly cured.
Ever since, visitors have queued to
touch the miraculous spot.

5 Columns
The Byzantines were great
scavengers, and many of the columns
in the Haghia Sophia were probably
salvaged from pagan temples.

3 Narthex
There are doors leading into the
nave from each bay of the narthex; the
large central one, the Imperial Gate,
was once reserved for the emperor
and the patriarch. At the south end
of the narthex, look back above the
door as you exit into the Vestibule of
the Warriors to see the wonderful late
10th-century mosaic of Constantine
and Justinian offering their city and
church to the infant Christ.
CHANGING FACES
In the last bay of the south gallery, look for
the mosaic of Christ enthroned, flanked
by Empress Zoë and Emperor Constantine
IX Monomachus. The emperor’s head
has been altered. Historians believe
that the figure was initially a portrait of
Zoë’s first husband, Romanos III Argyros,
but was replaced with the image of her
second husband, Michael IV, then the
face of her third husband, Constantine.
 Haghia Sophia ❮❮ 17

6 Islamic Elements
The conversion from church to mosque
began in 1453. Many of the mosiacs were plas-
tered over, to be rediscovered in the 1930s.The
mihrab and minbar (see p19) were added by
Sultan Murat III in the 16th century. Note the
calligraphic roundels (left) at the dome base.

7 Nave
On entering the
nave (below), the
overwhelming impression
is of the vast space
enclosed by the dome.
This sits on four arches
rising out of four
enormous marble piers,
which frame double
colonnades at either end.

8 Coronation Square
Set into the floor near the minbar, the site NEED TO KNOW
of the emperor’s throne is marked in a square of MAP R4 • Sultanahmet
patterned marble. In Byzantine times, this was Meydanı • (0212) 522 17 50
thought to be the centre of the world (omphalion). • www.ayasofyamuzesi.

9 Dome
The soaring dome
(left), 32 m (101 ft) in
diameter, rises 56 m
(183 ft) above the ground.
Supported by 40 ribs
made from lightweight
hollow bricks, it is a
miracle of engineering.
The original design
survived for 21 years
before being destroyed by
an earthquake in 1558.
0 Carpet Museum
(Vakıflar Halı Müzesi)
Behind Haghia Sophia is the old soup kitchen,
which today houses some of the country’s
oldest and finest mosque carpets.
gov.tr
Open Daily: Apr–Oct:
9am–7pm; Nov–Mar:
9am–5pm
Adm ¨ 30
• After your visit, it’s well
worth coming back at night
to see the exteriors of
both Haghia Sophia and
the Blue Mosque (see
pp18-19) floodlit.
• No refreshments are
provided within the
complex, but there are
many options in Divanyolu
Caddesi, a couple of
minutes’ walk away.
 18 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Blue Mosque
Sultan Ahmet I was only 19 when he commissioned this superb
mosque, known in Turkish as the Sultanahmet Camii. So great
was his enthusiasm for the project that at times he even worked
alongside his labourers. With his architect, Sedefkar Mehmet Ağa,
he wanted to surpass the Süleymaniye Mosque Complex (the work
of Ağa’s teacher, Sinan) and Haghia Sophia. The result of their
labours, completed in 1616, has become one of the most
celebrated mosques in the world, known widely as the Blue
Mosque because of the blue İznik tiles in the interior.
The Setting 1
To underline the supremacy of Islam over
Christian Byzantium, the Blue Mosque (right) was
built opposite Haghia Sophia (left), on the site
of the Byzantine royal palace.

2 Entrance
The mosque’s main entrance is 5 Courtyard
The huge courtyard (below),
for practising Muslims only. Separate which is faced with cool marble from
entrances for visitors of other faiths are the island of Marmara, has the same
around the side of the mosque. dimensions as the interior of the
prayer hall. Look up for a splendid
Minarets view of the mosque’s cascade of
3 Legend has it that the sultan domes and semidomes.
asked for a minaret capped with altın
(gold), but the architect heard altı (six)
minarets. The sultan was pleased – at
that time no mosque apart from the
great mosque in Mecca had six minarets.

4 Domes
Semidomes (below) surround
the main dome, which is 23.5 m (77 ft)
in diameter and 43 m (140 ft) high, and
supported by four giant columns, each
5 m (16 ft) in
diameter.
6 Ablutions Fountain
The fountain at the centre of the
mosque’s courtyard is no longer used
for ritual ablutions. Instead, the faithful
use taps ranged along the outside of
the courtyard. Washing the face, arms,
neck, feet, mouth and nose is seen as
an integral part of the act of prayer.

7 Tiles
There are more than 20,000 blue
İznik tiles (above) lining the mosque’s
interior walls. Supplying these tiles put
severe pressure on the tile makers, and
the sultan banned anyone else from
placing orders until his was complete.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP R5 • Sultanahmet Meydanı
• (0212) 458 49 83
Open 9am–7pm daily, except during prayers
Donations
• To avoid prayer times, make the mosque
your first stop in the morning, or visit in the
mid-afternoon.
• There are no places for refreshment inside
the mosque complex, but Sultanahmet
Square, Divanyolu Caddesi and the Arasta
Bazaar offer plenty of possibilities.
Blue Mosque ❮❮ 19
İZNIK TILES
Ceramic production in İznik began
during the Byzantine era. In the early
years, the designs were based on
Chinese models. Arabic motifs were
added by Şah Kulu, one of 16 artists
brought in from Tabriz by Sultan Selim I
(1512–20). A rich turquoise was added
to the traditional blue and white in the
1530s; purples, greens and coral reds
came 20 years later. Master designer
Kara Memi introduced swirling floral
patterns, and by the time Ahmet I
placed his order for the Blue Mosque,
the İznik style was established.
8 Minbar
and Mihrab
At the front of the mosque are
the minbar (below), the pulpit
from which the imam delivers
his sermons, and the mihrab,
which is a niche that points
towards Mecca.
9 Sultan’s Loge
To the left of the
mihrab is the galleried box
where the sultan prayed.
The loge’s ceiling is painted
with arabesque designs.
0 Carpets
The whole of the interior
of the mosque is laid with a
modern carpet. Mosques have
always had carpets in order to
cushion the knees and forehead
during prayer time (left).
 20 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Archaeological Museum
The national collection of one of the world’s most ancient and
enthralling countries naturally promises something special, and
this fabulous museum does not disappoint. A world-class collection
spanning 5,000 years, it was founded in 1881 by Osman Hamdi Bey,
the son of a Grand Vizier, fuelled by the realization that European
archaeologists and treasure hunters were walking off with much of
the Empire’s heritage. There are three sections: the main museum,
the Tiled Pavilion (Çinili Köșk) and the Museum of the Ancient Orient.

1 Sidon
Sarcophagi
Osman Hamdi Bey
discovered this remark-
able group of 5th- and
4th-century-BC sarcophagi
in Sidon (modern-day
Lebanon) in 1887.
4 Ishtar Gate
The Ishtar
Gate, built by King
Nebuchadnezzar II in
575 BC, was decorated
with mosaic ceramic
panels of dragons
and bulls (right).
The Processional Way
through the gate was
lined with 120 lions.

5 Hattuşa
Sphinx
This enigmatic 13th-
century-BC stone
feline was one of four
discovered in the great
Hittite city at Hattuşa
(Boğazkale) in Anatolia.
2 Alexander
Sarcophagus Key to floorplan
Its high-relief frieze shows Third floor
8
scenes of Alexander in Second floor
battle against the Persians, First floor
but the Alexander Ground floor
Sarcophagus (above),
dating from the late 4th 2
century BC, is in fact the
tomb of King Abdalonymos
of Sidon (died c.312 BC).
Faint traces remain of the 7
gaudy colour that would
once have covered it.
1
3 Halikarnassos
The tomb of King
Lion
0 5
Mausolus was
one of the seven 9
wonders of the
4
ancient world –
this simple
lion (left) is a 63 Entrance
surviving relic.

6 Treaty
Kadesh
of
The world’s oldest
surviving peace treaty,
carved in stone in 1269 BC,
was agreed by Egyptian
Pharaoh Ramses II and
King Hattusili III of the
Hittites after a battle in
present-day Syria. It lays
out the terms of the
ceasefire and agrees the
safe return of refugees.
7 Istanbul
the Ages
Through
This thoughtful exhibit provides
a fascinating insight into the city’s
history, with maps, plans and
drawings alongside exhibits such
as the original 14th-century bell
from the Galata Tower.
8 Anatolia and
Troy Gallery
Thousands of years of history
(right) are imaginatively timelined
in this long gallery.
On one side you can
travel through
Anatolia from the
Stone Age to the
Iron Age. On the
other wall, follow
the history of Troy
from 3000 BC to
the 1st century AD.
Archaeological Museum ❮❮ 21
ANCIENT WELCOME
Visitors are greeted by an eclectic assortment of
archaeological artifacts. In the entrance hall to
the main museum stands a statue of the Egyptian
god Bes. At the foot of the stairs to the Museum of
the Ancient Orient are two basalt lions from Samal,
dating from the 8th century BC. Outside the main
museum are porphyry sarcophagi, from the
4th–5th century AD, thought to be those of Byzantine
emperors. The portico itself is modelled on the
4th-century-BC Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women.
Museum of the 9
Ancient Orient
This museum (right) has well-preserved
exhibits from Mesopotamia, Egypt
and Babylon,
including some of the
world’s first known
writing – cuneiform
clay tablets from
2700 BC.
0 Tiled Pavilion
Built in 1472 as a sports pavilion
(below), this is the oldest secular building
in Istanbul. A masterpiece of İznik tiles
itself, the pavilion also tells the interesting
story of Turkish ceramics, with displays
from İznik and Kutahya.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP S3 • Osman Hamdi Bey Yokuşu,
Topkapı Sarayı, Gülhane • (0212) 520 77 40
• www.istanbularkeoloji.gov.tr
Open Daily: Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar:
9am–5pm
Adm ¨ 15
• Due to ongoing earthquake proofing,
some galleries are likely to be closed.
•There is a small café in the grounds and a
good souvenir shop next to it.
 22 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Grand Bazaar
From the painted arches to the shopfronts gleaming with lanterns,
piled with carpets or heaped with spices, the Kapalı Çarşı is a fantasy
of Eastern opulence. Founded in 1461 by Sultan Mehmet II, the
bazaar was designed as the trading heart of an empire. In addition
to shops, banks, storerooms and cafés, it had mosques, travellers’
accommodation, a bathhouse and a school. Destroyed several
times by earthquake and fire, it has always bounced back. It offers
a compelling and entertaining – if potentially expensive – day out.

1 İçThisBedesten
was the bazaar’s first
building (right), a Byzantine structure
converted in 1461 into a sturdy lock-up
in which jewellery was traded and
slaves were auctioned. Today, it is
used to sell precious goods such as
antiques and rare icons.

2 Jewellers’ Street
(Kalpakçılar Caddesi)
The bazaar’s widest street runs along
the southern edge of the market, its
shop windows piled high with jewels
and precious metals. Some 100,000 kg
(220,460 lb) of gold is
traded in the
bazaar each
year (right).
Gold jewellery
is sold by weight.

5 Street Names
At one time, each part of the
bazaar had its own specialism, as
indicated by the street names. Look
for the terlikçiler (slipper-makers),
aynacılar (mirror-makers), fesçiler
(fez-makers), yorgancılar (quilt-
makers), kazazcılar (silk-thread-
makers) and kürkçüler (fur-makers).

3 Carpet Sellers
The bazaar is home to Istanbul’s
Fountains
Two marble
6
finest carpet dealers, as well as lesser and copper fountains
traders keen to sell you a hall runner provided drinking
or a bedside rug. Shops are scattered water for the market
throughout the market, especially near traders before modern
the İç Bedesten on Halıcılar Caddesi. plumbing was installed
(right). An 1880 survey
Outdoor Stalls
4 Surrounding the covered market
noted there were also
16 drinking-water
is a maze of tiny lanes, with stalls posts, one fountain
selling carpets, souvenirs, clothes reservoir and eight
and vegetables. Locals shop here. wells for firefighters.
 Grand Bazaar ❮❮ 23

7 Sandal
Bedesten
In the southeast corner
of the bazaar, the
15th-century Sandal
Bedesten is the second
oldest part of the bazaar.
The roof of its arcade
consists of 20 brick
domes propped up by
pillars. It is the former
antiques market.
Gates
Twenty-two
8
gates lead into the
covered bazaar from all
directions (right). The
Beyazıt Gate, rebuilt
after an earthquake in
1894, is marked with the
tuğra (imperial sign) of
Sultan Abdül Hamit II,
and the assurance that
“God loves tradesmen”.

0 200m
Örücüler
Kapısı

3 1 9
YA Ğ L I KÇ I L A R S O K

ÇUKUR
HAN Mercan
Kapısı
İÇ CEBECİ
HANI Mahmut
ÇIL AR
PE RD AH K Paşa
SO
AR Kapısı
R CA
D AY N A C I L
LA KUYU CAD
CI SOK
N ILAR
HALIC I CAD
A

IS
MCU
RG

ÇARȘ
YO

6
LA R

NURU
Yorgancılar
TA K K A D

Kapısı AD
LE R C
KAPISI
S I PA H İ C A D

KE SE Cİ
C
AD

E C İL

BODRUM
RC

K O LA IS I S O K

HANI
O S MA N İ Y E
KAP
ER
LE

SO K
Çİ

S
N C IL

Fesçiler FE
KÜR
Kapısı CAD Ç A R ȘK Ç Ü LE R
BAȘI
AR

IȘ I S
ÇILAR OK
Beyazıt K A L PA K Çarşıkapı
Kapısı Kapısı Kürkçüler
Kapısı

8 2 7

NEED TO KNOW
MAP N3 www.grandbazaar
•
istanbul.org.tr
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat
(surrounding street markets are
usually open longer and on Sun)
• The hotels, school and bath-
house that were once part of the
bazaar have gone; now the
market has a police station, ATM
machines, public toilets and other
necessities for keeping its droves
of visitors happy.
• There are small tea and coffee
shops scattered throughout the
market, as well as several good
kebab shops, a couple of
restaurants and a range of
upmarket cafés.
9 Zincirli Han
The hans provided accommodation,
food and stables for travelling traders. This
one, the oldest of 40 in the area, has been
lovingly restored and is now occupied by
Şişko Osman, a leading carpet dealer.
0 Valide Han
Located on Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu, this
huge building, constructed in 1651, has been
sadly neglected. Today, it contains a mix of
residential, gallery and workshop space.
FACTS AND FIGURES
The Grand Bazaar is one of the world’s
largest buildings, containing a network of 61
covered streets and enclosing an area of
307,000 sq m (3,305,000 sq ft). Every day in
this teeming marketplace, as many as 30,000
traders in 4,500 shops befriend and haggle
with up to 400,000 shoppers – both locals
and visitors from all around the world. In
business since its foundation in 1461, the
bazaar is the world’s oldest covered market.

Following pages Vast nave of the Haghia Sophia

 26 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Süleymaniye Mosque
Complex
One of the finest creations of the Ottoman Empire’s greatest
architect, Sinan, Süleymaniye Camii was built in 1550–57 for
Süleyman I. This hilltop mosque was constructed as part of a
charitable foundation (külliye). The mosque’s dome and minarets
dominate the skyline in a matchless display of imperial power,
while its delicate calligraphy, stained-glass windows and decorative
carvings add a lightness of touch. Süleyman and his wife Roxelana
are buried in tombs in the courtyard.

1 Mosque
Interior
The interior is simple and
serene. The blue, white
and gold dome (right)
contains 200 stained­
glass windows. The
mihrab and pulpit are
made from white marble
with İznik tiles.

2 Süleyman’s
Tomb
Sultan Süleyman I, “the
Magnificent”, lies in a
grandiose garden tomb
(below), with an ebony,
mother­of­pearl and
ivory door and a dome
inlaid with ceramic stars.

4 Hamam
This mosque’s hamam is a mixed­sex
bathhouse, which makes it good for families.
Somewhat alarmingly, it offers all visitors
free life insurance during their bath!
3 Sinan’s Tomb
Sinan’s mauso­ Courtyard 5
leum is on the site of the This great court­
house he lived in when yard (right) is surrounded
building the mosque, just by a colonnade of
beyond the northwest porphyry, Marmara and
corner of the complex. It pink Egyptian columns,
is a modest memorial to said to be recycled from
a prodigious talent. the Hippodrome.
 Süleymaniye Mosque Complex ❮❮ 27
15 6

9 8

Entrance
4 1
Medreses
6 Two of the six medreses
(colleges) (above) – once part of the 6 7
Imperial religious school providing
theological and NEED TO KNOW
general education –
house Süleyman’s MAP M2 • Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Cad
• (0212) 522 02 98
library of 110,000
manuscripts. Open 9am–7pm daily (closed at
prayer times); Süleyman’s tomb open
7 Addicts’
Alley
9:30am–4:30pm; hamam open 7am–
midnight daily
The cafés of Adm charge for hamam
“Addicts’ Alley”,
formally known • Take time out to admire some of

as Prof Sıddık Sami the restored wooden houses in the

Onar Caddesi, once nearby streets.
sold opium and • There are many refreshment options,
hashish. It still with the Darüzziyafe Restaurant (see
has its cafés, but p73) in the old soup kitchen, the
now the drug of Lalezar Café and a row of cafés serving
choice is tobacco Turkish baked beans right opposite the
smoked in a water main entrance to the complex.
pipe (nargile).

8 İmaret
The mosque
kitchens not only fed the
many workers, students,
teachers and priests in
the complex (left), but
ran a soup kitchen for
up to 1,000 people a day.

SINAN 9 Caravanserai
The mosque was a full-service
The incomparable Mimar Sinan, builder complex – in the caravanserai, visitors
of 146 mosques and over 300 other could find food and lodging.
buildings, never trained as an architect.
He was born Christian in 1489, and was
conscripted to serve in the sultan’s elite 0 Views
The terraced gardens outside the
Janissary (New Army) Corps. He rose main complex offer fine views (below)
through the ranks to become Commander across the Golden Horn.
of the Infantry Cadet Corps, responsible
for military engineering works, then in
1536 was appointed Architect of the
Abode of Felicity by Süleyman. He held
the post until his death, aged 99, in 1588.
 28 ❯❯ The Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Church of
St Saviour in Chora
The Church of St Saviour in Chora is home to one of the world’s
finest collections of Byzantine art: more than 100 magnificent
mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical images. They were com-
missioned in 1315–21 by Byzantine statesman Theodore Metochites,
who also restored the 11th-century church on the site. The church
was converted into a mosque in 1511 and is known by locals as
Kariye Mosque (Kariye Camii). Its works of art slipped into obscurity
until they were rediscovered in 1860. Restoration began in 1948.

Exterior
Walk round the back of the
1
church (right) to experience the full
impact of its architecture – masonry of
striped marble, six domes, layers of
arches, undulating rooflines and, to
one side, a minaret.

Outer

2 Genealogy of Christ
The two domes of the inner
narthex
Entrance
narthex (western entrance) portray to nave
Nave
66 of Christ’s forebears. In one dome
Inner
(above), the Virgin and Child survey narthex
the kings of the House of David. In
the other, Christ is surrounded by
ancestors including Adam, Abraham,
Jacob and Jacob’s 12 sons. Entrance Paracclesion

3 Anastasis Fresco
This resurrection fresco
(below) depicts Christ pulling Adam
and Eve from their graves, while
the gates of hell are broken and
Satan lies bound at Christ’s feet.
4 Paracclesion
A funerary chapel south of the
main church, this is a glory of frescoes
depicting judgment and resurrection.
The unmarked tomb in the north wall
may be that of Theodore Metochites.

5 Ministry of Christ
The vaults of seven bays in the
outer narthex and the south bay of
the inner narthex detail the ministry
of Christ, including his temptation and
miracles such as healing of the sick.
 Church of St Saviour in Chora ❮❮ 29
6 Mosaic of
Theodore
Metochites
Over the door leading
from the inner narthex
to the nave is a superb
mosaic (left) depicting
Theodore Metochites in a
large turban presenting
his church to Christ, who
raises a hand in blessing.
7 The Last
Judgment
In the main dome of
the Paracclesion is a
vision of the Last
Judgment, with Christ
in Majesty flanked by
the Virgin Mary, John the
Baptist and the Apostles.
8 Life of the
Virgin
Twenty mosaics (right) in
the inner narthex depict
the life of the Virgin Mary,
based on the apocryphal
2nd-century Gospel of
St James. They include
images of Mary’s first
steps (at six months old).
9 Infancy of Christ
Scenes from Christ’s infancy are depicted
in the semicircular panels of the outer narthex.
Based on New Testament accounts, they include
the Journey to Bethlehem, Mary and Joseph
enrolling for taxation, the Nativity, and the terrible
Massacre of the Innocents.
0 Dormition of the Virgin
This beautiful mosaic in the nave (below)
shows Christ sitting beside his mother’s coffin,
cradling a baby that represents her soul. Above
is Ashrael, the Angel of Death.
CHURCH GUIDE
You now enter through
a side door, but the main
entrance was originally
by way of a long porch,
the outer narthex, which
leads into an inner
narthex. In the alcoves
of these two porches
you find the majority of
the mosaics. The inner
narthex opens into the
main body of the church
(the nave). At the far end,
the altar stands in front
of the semicircular apse,
flanked by the Prothesis
(Communion chapel)
and Diakonikon (vestry).
To one side is the
Paracclesion.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP B2 • Kariye
Camii Sok, Kariye
Meydanı, Edirnekapı
• (0212) 631 92 41
Open 9am–5pm daily
Adm ¨ 15
• Photography is
permitted, but flash
is forbidden.
• The Asitane
Restaurant next door
(see p79) is a pleasant
garden café, and one
of the best places in
Istanbul for traditional
Ottoman cuisine.
 30 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Çemberlitaş Baths
No stay in Istanbul would be complete without a bout of
steaming, soaping, scrubbing and massaging in a Turkish
bath (hamam). Çemberlitaş, built in 1584, is commonly
hailed as one of the most beautiful. Designed by Sinan, it
was commissioned by Selim II’s wife, Nurbanu Sultan, as a
way of providing financial support for the Atik Valide Sultan
Mosque in Üsküdar (see p100), of which she was sponsor.
Today, Çemberlitaş is still used by Turks, but is most popular
with tourists and photographers – it’s a regular location for
film and fashion shoots.

1 Entrance
At the ticket office, you are
given a peștemal (a type of sarong,
for modesty) (below), a kese (a coarse
mitt for scrubbing the body down) and
tokens to give to the attendants. Men
and women are
then sent off to
separate
sections.

2 Men’s Section
Originally the hamam consisted
of two identical suites of rooms, each
with a separate entrance. The men’s
section of the baths is still exactly as
envisaged by its creator, Sinan.

3 Women’s Section
The women’s changing area
was lost in 1868, when Divanyolu
Caddesi was widened, so women
now change in a corridor; but their
hot room is unaltered.
5 Hot Room (Sıcaklık)
The hot room has a domed ceiling
supported by 12 arches that rise from
marble columns (above). The dome is
pitted with glass “elephants’ eyes”,
which channel the light through the
steam to polka-dot the floor.
6 7 6 7

4 Dressing
(Camekan)
Room 4

8
In the dressing room (above), an
attendant will assign you a locker and
give you a pair of slippers. Most people 1 Key
go nude under the peștemal, but wear Men’s section
a swimsuit if you wish to. Women’s section

ANCIENT CUSTOMS
The direct descendant of the
Graeco-Roman bath, the hamam was
eagerly adopted by Islamic invaders
who really did believe that cleanliness
is next to godliness; the bath was a
chance not only to cleanse the skin and
detoxify the body, but also to restore
the spirit. For women, time in the
hamam was a welcome escape from
the narrow world in which they spent
their lives, as well as a place to check
out potential daughters-in-law.
8 Cool Room (Soğukluk)
The cool room is the place to sit
and chat. The men’s is as elegant as
it was in Sinan’s day; the women’s is
more modern. Afterwards, head back
to change, or go for your oil massage.
9 Oil Massage Room
You will be one of several people
being massaged (below) on a row of
beds under bright lights. It’s worth
any discomfort you may experience –
you’ll feel great afterwards.
Çemberlitaş Baths ❮❮ 31
6 Private
(Halvets)
Cubicles
Around the walls are a number of
private cubicles with taps running
cold, warm and hot water, which
you can use to wash or cool down
if the heat gets too much for you.
7 Navel Stone
(Göbek Taşı)
In the centre of the hot room is a large
slab of marble. Lie down and wait for
the attendant. You will be covered in
soap suds, and scrubbed all over with
the kese. Then you will be lathered
again, washed with a cloth, and soap-
massaged (below). Finally, your hair
will be washed, and you will be vigor-
ously rinsed with buckets of water.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP P4 • Vezir Hanı Cad 8
• (0212) 522 79 74
• www.cemberlitashamami.org
Open 6am–midnight daily
Adm ¨ 70 (¨ 115 with massage, ¨ 190
with oil massage)
If you are planning to stay in the
•
hamam for any length of time, take
a small bottle of water in with you.
• The baths are sited halfway between
the Grand Bazaar and Sultanahmet
Square, and are an easy walk from
either. The surrounding area is
bursting with cafés, teashops and
restaurants – take your pick.
0 Extras
Take as much time as you like to
return to the steam room or sit in the
cool room. If you want the full works,
the attendants will be happy to give
you a manicure, pedicure or facial.
 32 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Dolmabahçe Palace
In 1843, Sultan Abdül Mecit, who wanted to reinvent the
Ottoman Empire in a European image, employed Armenian
architects Garabet and Nikoğos Balyan to build a luxurious
new palace on the Bosphorus shore. Dolmabahçe Sarayı,
completed in 1856, is the result. Luxurious it certainly is, with
285 rooms and 43 reception halls, and lavish decoration in
gold and crystal that rivals the Palace of Versailles in France.
Ironically, this extravagance hastened the end of the Empire,
and the last sultan fled from here into exile in 1922.
Ceremonial Hall
(Muayede Salonu) 1
The dome in this vast hall (right)
is 36 m (118 ft) high. The Bohemian
crystal chandelier, a gift from Queen
Victoria of England, has 750 lights and
weighs 4.5 tonnes (9,900 lb). It is the
world’s largest chandelier.

2 Gates
The palace had two ceremonial
entrances, both highly ornamented:
the Treasury Gate, which is now the
main entrance, and the Imperial
Gate (above). Both gates still have
a guard of honour.
Waterfront Façade
3 The marble façade (below) is
284 m (930 ft) long. The State Rooms
are on the left, the Ceremonial Hall in
the centre and the Harem on the right.
4 Harem
The Harem has several apart­
ments, furnished to various grades of
luxury (for the sultan, his mother, wives,
concubines, servants and guests) – also
baths, a school, a maternity ward and
a central salon where the wives and
concubines would meet for tea.
5 State Rooms (Selamlık)
The rooms on the palace’s
seaward side were used by the Grand
Vizier and ministers, while those on
the landward side were administrative
offices. They are all lavishly decorated.

6 Sultan’s Bathrooms
The Sultan had two bath­
rooms: one in the main palace,
faced in marble; the other in the
Harem, decorated in violet flowers.
 Dolmabahçe Palace ❮❮ 33

ATATÜRK
Born in 1881, Mustafa Kemal rose to
prominence in 1915, leading Turkish
forces to victory at Gallipoli. A leader of
the Young Turks republican movement,
he seized his moment following the
end of World War I, abolishing the

7 Crystal Staircase
The ornate staircase (above)
has balusters of Baccarat crystal. It
links the administrative offices with
the ceremonial rooms upstairs.
sultanate in 1922 and declaring a
republic in 1923. As Turkey’s first
president, he westernized the country
– introducing the Latin alphabet,
compulsory schooling and rights for
women. He is still idolized as the “Father
of the Turks” (Atatürk); it is illegal in
Turkey to criticize him publicly.

0 Atatürk’s Rooms
In the first years of the
republic, Atatürk used the palace
as his Istanbul base, keeping an
office and bedroom (below) in the
Harem. He died here, from cirrhosis
of the liver, on 10 November 1938 –
all the palace’s clocks are set to
9:05am, the moment of his death.

8 Clock Tower
The four-storey tower, 27 m
(90 ft) high, was added to the palace
in 1890, during the reign of Sultan
Abdül Hamit II (see p91). The clock –
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C5 • Dolmabahçe Cad • (0212)
236 90 00 • Tram: Kabataş, then a
5-minute walk
• www.dolmabahce.gov.tr

which still keeps time – was built Open 9am–4pm Tue, Wed & Fri–Sun
by the celebrated Parisian clock- (to 3pm Oct–Feb)
maker Paul Garnier.
Adm ¨ 30 for Selamlık, ¨ 20 for Harem,
Gardens ¨ 40 for a combined ticket
9 The palace and gardens (below) • Admission to the palace is by guided
stand on reclaimed land (the name tour only. There are two itineraries: one
Dolmabahçe means “Filled Garden”). of the Selamlık (the areas reserved for
In addition to the men, including the Ceremonial Hall);
palace and its 16 the other of the Harem (including the
external pavilions, living quarters of the royal women, the
the grounds once sultan’s private quarters, and Atatürk’s
held a flour mill, bedroom, bathroom and study).
pharmacy, aviary, • There is a café in the Clock Tower,
glass factory and toilets near both entrances.
and foundry.
 34 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul Highlights

Bosphorus Cruise
The Istanbul skyline is justifiably one of the most famous cityscapes
in the world and, while there are many places from which to admire
it, by far the best is the deck of a boat on the Bosphorus. After the
bustle of the city centre, a trip up the Bosphorus gives you an entirely
different perspective on the city. Give your lungs a break from the
traffic fumes and your feet a rest from trudging pavements. Take
the local ferry for a modest fare, and spend a day floating serenely
along the straits past magnificent shores and wooden villas.

1 Eminönü Pier
The Bosphorus ferry departs
from Eminönü port (above), the city’s
busiest ferry terminal. Pick up a simit
or fish sandwich from a street vendor.
3 Dolmabahçe Palace
(Dolmabahçe Sarayı)
Sultan Abdül Mecit virtually mortgaged
the Ottoman Empire to build this lavish,
European-style palace in the 1850s.

2 Leander’s
(Kız Kulesi)
Tower
4 Ortaköy
One of the prettiest villages on
This tower, off the Üsküdar shore, is a the straits, at the foot of the
restaurant. Its Turkish name means Bosphorus Bridge, Ortaköy
“Maiden’s Tower”, after a legendary (below) is a weekend
princess kept there; the English name retreat for İstanbulites.
refers to a hero of Greek myth (see p97).

IT’S ALL A MYTH

When Greek goddess Hera sent a swarm
of gnats to plague the beautiful Io, her
rival for the affections of the god Zeus,
Io turned herself into a cow and swam
across the straits to escape, giving the
Bosphorus its name – the “Ford of the
Cow”. In another Greek myth, Jason and
the Argonauts rowed up the Bosphorus
5 Bosphorus Bridge
(Boğaziçi Köprüsü)
in search of the Golden Fleece – perhaps Completed in 1973, this 1,510-m-
an echo of the Black Sea tradition of using (4,954-ft-) long bridge, stretching
a lamb’s fleece to trap gold when panning. between Ortaköy and Beylerbeyi,
was the first to link Europe and Asia.
 Bosphorus Cruise ❮❮ 35
9 0

Orta

Bo
Tarabya Çeşme

sp
ho
ru
Beykoz

s
Yenıköy

8
Kanlıca

7
6 Beylerbeyi Palace (Asian Side) Etiler
4 Kandilli
(Beylerbeyi Sarayı) Beşiktaş
This fussy palace (above) was built as a summer 3
6
annexe to the Dolmabahçe. It had no kitchens, Beyoğlu 5
and food was rowed across as required. 1 Üsküdar
2

9 Sarıyer
This village is the main fishing
port on the Bosphorus. It has a historic
fish market, as well as several good
fish restaurants near the shore.

0 Anadolu Kavağı
(Asian Side)
This is the last stop for the ferry (below),
and the locals make a good living
selling fish lunches and ice cream to
tourists. The 14th-century Yoros Kalesi,
a Genoese Castle, affords good views.

7 Arnavutköy and Bebek

The pretty 19th-century wooden
villas (yalıs) that line the waterfront
along this central stretch of the
Bosphorus are the city’s most
desirable real estate.

8 Fortress of Europe
(Rumeli Hisarı)
This castle (below) was built by
Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452
NEED TO KNOW
MAP F4 • Departs from Eminönü
Boğaz Hattı Pier • (0212) 444 18 51
• www.sehirhatlari. com.tr

prior to his attack on Constantinople. Departures daily, May–Oct: 10:35am &

Across the water stands the Fortress
of Asia (Anadolu Hisarı), built in the
late 14th century.
1:35pm; Nov–Apr: 10:35am
Fare ¨ 15 one way, ¨ 25 return
• The return cruise takes around 6
hours, including a 2.5-hour lunch stop
at Anadolu Kavağı. If you would like
to visit any of the sights en route,
take the ferry one way and return by
bus. The bus, however, can be
extremely slow.
• Food is available on the ferry and
there are various food facilities at the
last stop in Anadolu Kavağı.
The Top 10
of Everything

Basilica Cistern, an underground water

reservoir constructed in the 6th century
Moments in History 38 Off the Beaten Track 48
Byzantine Monuments 40 Culinary Highlights 50
Places of Worship 42 Restaurants 52
Museums and Galleries 44 Shops and Markets 54
Istanbul for Free 46 Festivals and Events 56
 38 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Moments in History
1 AD 330–95:
Division of 4 1453: Conquest
of Constantinople
the Roman Empire
In 330, Constantine
moved the capital of the
Empire from Rome to the
former Greek colony of
Byzantium. It was initially
called New Rome but later
became Constantinople
(“City of Constantine”). In
395, Theodosius divided
the Empire between his
sons, with the western
half run from Rome and
the eastern (Byzantine) half Bust of
centred on Constantinople. Constantine reached its maximum extent
2 1071: Battle
of Manzikert
The Seljuk Turks coming from
Persia defeated Byzantine forces
at Manzikert and seized most of
Anatolia. The Byzantines never
recovered their eastern lands.
3 1204: Sack and Capture
of Constantinople
The armies of the Fourth Crusade
sacked Constantinople, driving the
emperor into exile. Crusader rulers
governed in Constantinople until
1261, when Byzantine Emperor
Michael VIII Palaeologus recaptured
the city.
Capture of Constantinople in 1204
Following years of Ottoman
encroachment into the
Byzantine Empire, Sultan
Mehmet II captured
Constantinople, converting
the church of Haghia Sophia
into the mosque of Ayasofya.
The last Byzantine emperor,
Constantine XI, died fighting
on the city walls.
5 1529: Siege
of Vienna
The Ottoman Empire
under Süleyman I. In 1526,
he had taken control of southern
Hungary. In the spring of 1529, he
mustered a huge military force with
the aim of consolidating his Hungarian
gains and moving on to Vienna. A
combination of serious flooding en
route and a spirited defence led by
a German mercenary, Niklas Graf
Salm, sent the Turks packing
and marked the end of Ottoman
expansion in Western Europe.
6 1777: Turkish Delight
Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir,
confectioner to the imperial court,
invented a chewy sweet flavoured
with rosewater and coated in icing
sugar: rahat lokum (“morsel
of contentment”),
better known as
Turkish delight.
7 1853–6:
Crimean War
When Russia began to
encroach on Ottoman
territory, Britain and
France weighed in
on the side of the
Turks. Englishwoman
Florence Nightingale
set up a hospital in
Istanbul, defining
modern nursing
practice (see p97).

Mustafa Kemal
8 1919–23: Birth
of the Republic
Mustafa Kemal – or Atatürk
(“Father of the Turks”) – led a
bloodless revolution that abolished
the sultanate, and fought a fierce
war of independence. In 1923, as
first president of the new Republic
of Turkey, he moved the capital
to Ankara, leaving Istanbul
without political status for the
first time in 1,600 years.
Construction of the Bosphorus
Bridge, 1972
1973: Bosphorus Bridge
9 The Bosphorus Bridge
was opened between Ortaköy and
Beylerbeyi, linking European Turkey
to Asian Anatolia.
0 2015: PM Erdoğan wins
Fourth Term
The November 2015 elections saw
the Justice and Development Party
(AKP), win a fourth successive term
in government, with almost 50
percent of the vote.
Moments in History ❮❮ 39
TOP 10 NOTABLE OTTOMAN
SULTANS
Sultan Mehmet II
1 Osman Gazi (1299–1326)
The Ottoman dynasty takes its name
from that of its founder, Osman. In
1301, his forces won the first Ottoman
victory against the Byzantine Empire
at the Battle of Baphaeon.
2 Orhan Gazi (1326–60)
Orhan moved the Ottoman capital
to Bursa and established Islam as
the state religion.
3 Murat I (1360–89)
Murat founded the Janissary Corps, an
elite group within the Ottoman army.
4 Mehmet II the Conqueror
(1451–81)
In 1453, Mehmet captured
Constantinople from its Byzantine
rulers. He laid out a new city on the
rubble, and founded Topkapı Palace.
5 Süleyman I the Magnificent
(1520–66)
A conqueror, lawmaker and patron of
the arts, Süleyman presided over the
golden age of Ottoman rule (see p62).
6 Mehmet III (1595–1603)
Mehmet’s mother had 18 of his 19
brothers strangled so that he could
take the throne.
7 Osman II (1618–22)
The Janissaries killed Osman at
Yedikule after his failed attempt
to curb their power.
8 Mahmut II (1808–39)
Mahmut wiped out the Janissary
Corps, slaughtering thousands
in the purge.
9 Abdül Hamit II (1876–1909)
Abdül Hamit built Yıldız Sarayı,
the last of the imperial palaces.
10 Mehmet VI (1918–22)
The last of the Ottoman sultans fled
into European exile in November 1922.
 40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Byzantine Monuments

Haghia Sophia as seen from Sultanahmet Square

1 Haghia Sophia (Ayasofya)

Built by Emperor Justinian in
4 Church of St Saviour in
Chora (Kariye Camii)
the 6th century, Haghia Sophia is one The main reason to visit this
of the world’s greatest architectural 11th-century Byzantine church is
achievements. Justinian was so proud its glorious collection of mosaics
of his basilica that he proclaimed: and frescoes, which depict biblical
“Glory to God who has thought me scenes (see pp28–9).
worthy to finish this work. Solomon,
I have outdone you” (see pp16–17).

2 Hippodrome (At Meydanı)

Once a Byzantine race track
450 m (1,500 ft) long, the Hippodrome
could hold 100,000 people. It was the
scene of celebrations and, on occasion,
bloodshed; the Nika Riots in 532
ended with 30,000 dead (see p60).
Section of the Theodosian Walls
3 Cisterns
To ensure good water supply
5 Theodosian Walls
in times both of peace and of siege, (Teodos II Surları)
the Byzantines built a series of vast Over the course of 1,000 years,
underground water cisterns beneath the curtain walls built by Emperor
their city. The finest are the Basilica Theodosius II in 412–22 proved to be
Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) (see p63) a necessity – they withstood more
and the Cistern of 1,001 Columns than 20 attacks by Huns, Arabs,
(Binbirdirek Sarnıcı) (see p64). Bulgarians, Turks and Russians,
finally succumbing to the Ottomans
in 1453 (see p38). The walls have now
been partially restored (see p77).

The underground Basilica Cistern
6 Great Palace
Mosaic Museum
(Büyük Saray Mozaikleri Müzesi)
Only fragments remain of the Great
Palace of the Byzantine emperors.
This small museum houses one of
them – the mosaic passageway,
 Byzantine Monuments ❮❮ 41

discovered in the 1930s, that led

from the palace to the royal box in TOP 10 NOTABLE
BYZANTINE RULERS
the Hippodrome. The beautifully
crafted floor depicts wild animals
and hunting scenes (see p64).

7 Church of SS Sergius
and Bacchus
(Küçük Ayasofya Camii)
In the historic heart of the city, just
south of Sultanahmet Square, the
Church of SS Sergius and Bacchus
was built in the 6th century and has
an original Greek frieze (see p65). Sovereign Theodora and Antonina

1 Constantine (306–37)
8 Aqueduct of Valens
(Bozdoğan Kemeri)
Constantine moved the capital of
the Roman Empire from Rome to
This beautifully preserved 4th- Constantinople in 330 AD (see p38).
century aqueduct, which remained in 2 Theodosius II (408–50)
use until the 19th century, was a key Emperor Theodosius codified the
part of the system that carried fresh law, founded a university and built
water into the Byzantine capital from the city walls (see p77).
the forests of Thrace (see p75). 3 Justinian I (527–65)
Justinian founded many great buildings,
9 Haghia Eirene
(Aya İrini Kilisesi)
including Haghia Sophia (see pp16–17),
as well as reforming the law.
One of the oldest churches in 4 Theodora (527–48)
the city, Haghia Eirene stands in A bear-keeper’s daughter turned
the outer courtyard of the Topkapı stripper and prostitute, Theodora ruled
Palace. The church was rebuilt in alongside her husband Justinian I.
the 6th century and acted as a sister 5 Justinian II (685–95 and 705–11)
church to the nearby Haghia Sophia. Justinian’s enemies deposed him then
Today the church is open to the cut off his nose, because a disfigured
public and, because of its excellent man could not be emperor. He later
acoustics, concerts are often held regained the throne wearing, it is said,
here (see p65). a prosthetic nose of solid gold.
6 Irene of Athens (797–802)
0 Church of the
Pammakaristos
Irene was the first woman to rule the
Empire on her own.
(Fethiye Camii) 7 Basil I (867–86)
This 12th-century Byzantine church The homosexual lover of Michael III,
served as the worldwide head- Basil was crowned joint emperor in
quarters of the Greek Orthodox 866, then killed Michael to rule alone.
faith during the 8 Zoë (1028–50)
15th and 16th Zoë wed three times after becoming
centuries. empress aged 50.
It was con- 9 Romanus IV Diogenes (1067–71)
verted to a Romanus was defeated by the
mosque in Seljuks at Manzikert in 1071 and
1573. The as a result he was exiled.
former funer- 10 Constantine XI Palaeologus
ary chapel is (1449–53)
now a museum The last of the Byzantines died
Mosaic in the housing magnif- fighting on the city walls during
Church of the icent mosaics the conquest of 1453.
Pammakaristos (see p75).
 42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places of Worship
4 Eyüp Sultan
Mosque
(Eyüp Camii)
Also rebuilt after the
1766 earthquake, this
mosque at the top of
the Golden Horn is one
of the holiest places in
Islam. It is built around
the tomb of a 7th-
century saint, Eyüp
el-Ensari, standard-
bearer of the Prophet
Mohammed (see p76).
Süleymaniye Mosque Complex

1 Süleymaniye Mosque 5 Atik Valide Mosque

Complex
(Süleymaniye Camii)
This vast mosque (see pp26–7), which
dominates the skyline of the Golden
Horn, is the crowning achievement of
Koca Mimar Sinan, greatest of imperial
architects. Built in 1550–57 in the
grounds of the old palace, Eski Saray, it
is a suitably grand memorial to its
founder, Süleyman I (see pp38–9 & p62).
(Atik Valide Camii)
One of Istanbul’s finest mosques
and Sinan’s last great work, the “Old
Mosque of the Sultan’s Mother” was
completed in 1583 for the formidable
Nurbanu, wife of Selim III and mother
of Murat III (see p100).

2 Blue Mosque
(Sultanahmet Camii)
Commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I,
the magnificent Blue Mosque was
built by the imperial architect
Sedefkar Mehmet Ağa, a pupil of the Elegant interior of the Atik Valide
great Sinan, in 1609–16. The mosque Mosque, Üsküdar
takes its name from the blue İznik
tiles that line its inner walls (see
pp18–19).
6 Church of St George
(Ortodoks Patrikhanesi)
The Church of St George stands
Fatih Mosque
3 (Fatih Camii) within the Greek Orthodox
Patriarchate complex. Built in 1720,
The original Fatih Mosque was built it includes a superb 11th-century
by Mehmet II to celebrate his capture mosaic of the Virgin Mary (see p78).
of Constantinople in 1453; its name
means “the Conqueror’s
mosque”. The present
7 Armenian
Patriarchate
mosque was built in (Ermeni
the 18th century by Patrikhanesi)
Mustafa III, after MAP M6 • Sevgi
an earthquake in Sok 6, Kumkapı
1766 destroyed The Armenians
the original came in numbers
(see p75). Detail, Fatih Mosque to Istanbul in

1461, invited by Sultan Mehmet the
Conqueror to help rebuild the city
after its capture in 1453. Opposite
the attractive patriarchate building,
the Church of the Holy Mother of God
(Surp Asdvadzadzin) serves as the
main church for the now sadly
dwindling Armenian community.
8 Church of St Mary of the
Mongols (Kanlı Kilise)
Princess Maria, illegitimate
daughter of Byzantine Emperor
Michael VIII Palaeologos, married
Khan Abaqa of the Mongols. On
his death in 1282, she founded a
convent and this church – Istanbul’s
only Greek Orthodox church to
have been granted immunity from
conversion to a mosque by Mehmet
the Conqueror (see p78).
9 Christ Church
Consecrated in 1868 as the
Crimean Memorial Church, this
fine Gothic Revival building was
renovated and renamed in the
1990s. It is the largest Protestant
church in Istanbul (see p86).
0 Church of St Anthony
of Padua
(Sent Antuan Kilisesi)
The Church of St Anthony of Padua
is Istanbul’s largest Roman Catholic
church. Built in 1906–12, it is home
to a small community of Franciscan
monks (see p86).
Neo-Gothic façade of the Church
of St Anthony of Padua, Beyoğlu
Places of Worship ❮❮ 43
TOP 10 TIPS ON ISLAMIC
ETIQUETTE
Women in headscarves
1 Shoes
Remove your shoes before entering
a mosque or a Turkish home.
2 Men and Women
A man should not touch a woman
(other than family), even to shake
hands, unless the woman proffers
her hand or cheek first.
3 Left Hand
In some Islamic countries one
should avoid eating or passing
food with the left hand; in Turkey
this is not observed.
4 Pork and Alcohol
Although many people in Turkey do
drink alcohol, you should never offer
alcohol or pork to a Muslim – and
do not consume any yourself if unsure
of your companions’ views.
5 Family Rooms
Some restaurants and cafés have
separate family rooms (aile salonu)
into which women will automatically
be conducted. Men may only sit there
with their families.
6 Dress
Dress modestly – no bare knees,
shoulders or midriffs (for either sex).
7 Covering the Head
It is essential for women to cover their
heads when entering a mosque.
8 Ramazan (Ramadan)
Avoid eating and drinking in public
during daylight hours in the month-
long fast of Ramazan.
9 Sightseeing
Don’t go sightseeing in mosques
at prayer times (particularly around
midday on Fridays).
10 Joking about Islam
Don’t joke about Islam or criticize
anything related to it.
 44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums and Galleries

Bright exterior of the Istanbul Modern

1 Istanbul Modern
For centuries, Turkish art
was better known for tradition rather
than innovation, but contemporary
Turkish artists are exploring new
avenues. Set in a beautifully
converted Bosphorus warehouse,
Istanbul Modern is an ideal platform
for showcasing art from the 19th
to the 21st centuries (see p91).
2 Topkapı
Palace
4 Military Museum
(Askeri Müze)
Among the many fascinating exhibits
at this museum are curved daggers
(cembiyes) carried by 15th-century
Ottoman foot soldiers, and the vast
imperial tents used by sultans
during their military campaigns.
The Mehter Band, founded in
the 14th century, plays Ottoman
military music daily
at 3pm (see p84).

(Topkapı Sarayı)
The buildings are
5 Pera Museum
spectacular, some of (Pera Müzesi)
the collections are even The Pera is a privately
more so – from the sea run museum with an
of Chinese porcelain in intriguing mix of fine
the kitchens to the Treasury, art, modern exhibitions
with its ostentatious display and ancient weights and
of jewellery, carved ivory and measures (see p85).
great rocks of emerald. Ceramic pot at
Religious treasures include the Pera Museum Sakıp Sabancı
hair from the Prophet’s
in Beyoğlu 6 Museum (Sakıp
beard (see pp12–15). Sabancı Müzesi)
Known locally as the “Horse
Archaeological Museum Mansion”, this lovely museum
3 (Arkeoloji Müzesi) houses the collection of the late
Don’t miss the late 4th-century-AD Turkish business tycoon Sakıp
marble tomb of Abdalonymus of Sabancı. The displays encompass
Sidon, known as the “Alexander 500 years of Ottoman calligraphy,
Sarcophagus”. Its high-relief carving and Ottoman and Turkish painting
depicts Alexander the Great of the 19th and 20th centuries.
defeating the Persians at the Battle Major touring art exhibitions are
of Issus in 333 BC (see pp20–21). also hosted here (see p93).
 Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 45
7 Museum of Turkish
and Islamic Arts
(Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi)
This wonderful collection, in the
16th-century palace of İbrahim
Paşa, spans 1,300 years of the finest
works of Turkish and Islamic art.
Among the exhibits are splendid
Turkish carpets, calligraphy and
ethnographic items (see p61).
8 Rahmi Koç Museum
(Rahmi Koç Müzesi)
An Ottoman foundry and nearby
shipyard on the Golden Horn are the
perfect setting for this world-class
collection of all things mechanical,
from vintage cars to model planes –
and even a submarine (see pp76-77).
9 Sadberk Hanım Museum
(Sadberk Hanım Müzesi)
Two lovingly restored Bosphorus
mansions house an inspiring
collection of ancient Anatolian
artifacts, Ottoman costumes and
ceramics (see p93).
Sadberk Hanım Museum, on the
banks of the Bosphorus
Naval Museum
0 (Deniz Müzesi)
For centuries, the Ottoman navy
ruled the seas, and its achievements
are celebrated in this marvellous
museum. Among the exhibits are
figureheads and engravings, but the
flamboyantly decorated royal barges
are the highlight of any visit (see p91).
TOP 10 LESSER-KNOWN MUSEUMS
SALT Beyoğlu
1 Ottoman Bank Museum
MAP F3 Bankalar Cad 11,
•
Galata (0212) 334 22 00
•
Delve into the intriguing vaults of a
bank designed by Vallaury in 1890.
2 Mevlevi Monastery
Whirling dervishes are the main
draw in this monastery-turned-
museum (see p84).
3 SALT Beyoğlu
Gallery complex housed in a
beautifully restored 19th century
apartment block on busy Istiklal
Caddesi (see p54).
4 Railway Museum, Sirkeci Station
The Orient Express silver service is the
star among 300 exhibits (see p62).
5 SAV Automobile Museum
Inspect some of the best motor
transport from the last century, from
Rolls-Royce to Ferrari (see p94).
6 Aşiyan Museum
A Bosphorus mansion pays homage to
20th-century poets and thinkers (see p92).
7 Museum of the History of Science
and Technology in Islam
MAP G4 Has Ahirlar Binası,
•
Gülhane Parkı (0212) 528 80 65
•
See displays of historical tools from
astronomy and medicine, to war.
8 Florence Nightingale Museum
The museum includes the nurse’s
private quarters and surgery room
used during the Crimean War (see p97).
9 Arter Gallery
MAP J5 İstiklal Cad 211
•
•
(0212) 243 37 67
The gallery hosts temporary exhibitions
by internationally acclaimed artists.
10 Atatürk Museum
MAP T3 Halaskargazi Cad, Şişli
•
•
(0212) 240 63 19
This suburban house is now a
memorial museum to the great man.
 46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Off the Beaten Track

1 Safa Meyhanesi
MAP A6 İlyasbey •
near the Galata Tower. The museum
tells the story of the Jews who
Cad 121, Yedikule (0212) 585 55 94 •
were offered sanctuary in Istanbul
Arguably the city’s most atmospheric following their expulsion from
meyhane (tavern), located in the his- Spain in the late 15th century.
toric Yedikule quarter, a short stroll
from the fortress of the same name.
The decor hasn’t changed since the
3 Zoodochus Pege
(Balıklı Kilise)
1940s, with vintage rakı (aniseed MAP A6 • Seyit Nizam Cad 3,
spirit) posters adorning the walls, Silivrikapı • (0212) 582 30 81
high ceilings and wooden floors. • Open 8.30am–4:30pm daily

Drink rakı, eat meze and fish and This beautiful 19th-century Greek
be merry. Orthodox church is set in lush
green Christian and Muslim
cemeteries. In a basement shrine,
holy carp swim gracefully in the
crystal-clear spring waters.

4 Depo
MAP G2 • Koltukçular

Çıkmaz, Beyoğlu • (0212) 292

39 56 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–
Jewish Museum Sun • www.depoistanbul.net
Housed in a former tobacco
2 Jewish Museum
MAP F2 Neve Shalom •
warehouse, this hip but socially
conscious gallery has an ever-
Synagogue, Büyük Hendek Cad 61, changing series of exhibitions.
Karaköy • (0212) 244 15 76 Many of the shows focus on
• Open 10am–4pm Mon–Thu, 10am–
more offbeat subjects, such as
2pm Fri & Sun • Adm charge the plight of Turkey’s Christian
• www.muze500.com
minorities, political protests and
This interesting little museum is the like. There are also regular
housed in the Nev Shalom synagogue, documentary screenings.

13 km
YE
Nİ

Go
TO

ld BEYOĞLU
ÇA

D
PK

CA

FENER en
A

ŞİŞHANE
RŞ I
D
PI M

AB
CA
Sİ

FE T EY
D
ÜŞS YU C A D D E

H LE TİB
C A DİY E
Yİ

CA

ZEL CA
AL

NE
Ho
YB

P
TE

İ A
FE
ER

ES
PE

VZ

rn
YL

ŞA

DD
YO

İP
BE

A
us
LU

CA
AŞ

A D
C

KARAKÖY
or
U

LİÇ

KARAGÜMRÜK
CA

KÜÇÜKPAZAR ph
DD

HA

s
Bo
ES
GÜM

VA D
I

FATİH
İ

AR

TA CA
LV

Z
Mİ N Nİ
BU

LL E
ET KD
K E N N EDY
RK

CA CA A
TÜ

DD D
D
CA D

ES
ATA

İ ES CAĞALOĞLU Gülhane
D R

İ
CA HO

DE Sİ

Parkı
R

ZEYTİNBURNU BEYAZIT
HO
DE A

FINDIKZADE
C A DL E L M
Sİ

YE N İ ÇE R İ LE R C A D
YO LU

Dİ VA NY
AKSARAY OLU
K I ZI

CA D
İ
ES

D
D KUMKAPI SULTANAHMET
D

ZAM C
CA

SEYİT N İ
I
B E L G RA D K API SİLİVR İ K A P

Y
KOCA C A DDE
Sİ K EN NE D
NE DY
MUSTAFA KE N
PASA
Sea of 0 km 1
Marmara
0 miles 1

5 Column
(Kıztaşı)
of Marcian
MAP C4 • Junction of Kıztaşı
Cad with Dolap Sokak, Aksaray
Less tall but more impressive
than the better-known Çemberlitas
(Column of Constantine), this 5th-
century granite column still has an
ornately carved Corinthian capital
adorned with eagles and a plinth
carved with Nike, goddess of victory.
6 Mihrimah
Mosque
(Mihrimah Cami)
MAP J3 • Sulukule Cad,
Edirnekapı • Open
dawn–dusk daily
A masterpiece of the
Ottoman architect Sinan
and dedicated to the Ornate dome,
beautiful Mihrimah, Mihrimah Mosque
daughter of Sultan
Süleyman the Magnificent,
this delightful mosque stands
dramatically atop the old city’s
highest hill. Its elegant interior is
flooded with light from attractive
stained-glass windows.
7 Vefa Bozacısı
MAP E4 Vefa Cad 66, Fatih
•
• 0212 519 49 22 • www.vefa.com.tr
• Open 7am–midnight daily
Even if you don’t fancy drinking the
fermented millet drink (boza) for
which this charming place is known,
it’s worth coming for the late-19th-
century interior, with its cut glass,
dark wood and blue-and-white İznik
tiles. The boza is made out back.
Resplendent Emirgan Park during the Tulip Festival
Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 47
8 Istanbul
Building
Municipality
MAP D4 • Sehzadebaşı Cad, Fatih •
(0212) 512 55 00
Built in 1953, this huge, rectangular
building’s grid-like façade brought
international, modern architecture
into the heart of the old city, apposite
when you consider that Le Corbusier
was influenced by Ottoman
architecture following a visit to the
city in 1911.
9 Edirnekapı
Pigeon
Fanciers’ Market
(Güvercin Pazarı)
MAP J1
Every Saturday and
Sunday, pigeon fanciers
from across the city
come to buy and sell
tumbling pigeons at
this fascinating bazaar in the
shadow of the Byzantine Palace of
the Porphyrogenitus (see p78). Drink
a refreshing glass of tea with the
old- timers in the teahouse opposite
and soak up the atmosphere.
0 Emirgan Park
Istanbul’s most beautiful park
is located by the Bosphorus, just
above the second suspension bridge.
Dotted with kösks, little wooden
pavilions resembling Swiss chalets, it
has a small lake and some children’s
play equipment. The park is awash
with blooms during April’s Tulip
Festival (see p56) and provides a
pleasant retreat from the city (see p94).
 48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Culinary Highlights
1 Meze
Most Turkish meals begin with
meze – collections of small starters.
The range of meze is vast, and you
can easily eat enough for a whole
meal. Cold options range from
haydari (yoghurt with mint and
garlic) to midye pilakisi (mussels
cooked in olive oil) or çerkez tavuğu
(cold chicken in walnut and bread
sauce). Hot options may include
chicken liver kebabs, calamari,
grilled cheese, or something more
adventurous such as koç yumurtası
(fried sheep’s testicles).
İmam Bayıldı
2 (“The Imam
Fainted”)
This strangely
named dish of
aubergine stuffed with
tomatoes and onions
is a Turkish classic –
the Imam in question
supposedly found it so
delicious that he passed İmam Bayıldı
out in ecstasy. Aubergine
is a fundamental ingredient
of Turkish cuisine; it is said
that Ottoman court chefs could
prepare it in 150 ways.
Dolma
3 The word dolma means
“filled up”, and is used to describe
any stuffed food, from walnuts to
peppers, beef tomatoes or aubergine. pilavı (fresh anchovies and rice).
Stuffed vine leaves or dolma
The most common version, eaten
cold, is vine leaves stuffed with rice,
onion, nuts and herbs.
4 Kebabs and Köfte
Turkey’s most famous culinary
export is the kebab – called kebap in
Turkish. Döner kebap is wafer-thin
slices of roast meat (usually lamb)
carved from a spit; the şiş kebap is
cubed lamb or chicken grilled on a
skewer. Köfte is minced meat cooked
as meatballs or flattened onto a
skewer and grilled as an izgara kebap.
5 Çoban Salatası
(“Shepherd’s
Salad”)
This salad combines
tomato, cucumber,
chopped pepper,
lettuce, coriander,
celery, lemon juice
and olive oil in a light,
healthy, colourful and
refreshing dish. Turkish
tomatoes are among the
finest in the world.
Seafood
6 Istanbul’s proximity to the sea
means that taze balık (fresh fish) is
very popular with locals. The catch
of the day is often grilled and served
with rice or chips and salad. Shellfish
and calamari are served as meze. A
delicious Black Sea dish is hamsi

7 Stews (Güveç)
Often served in traditional
lokanta restaurants (see p110) and
generally popular in winter, hearty
stews are mostly made with lamb,
tomatoes and onions.
8 Börek
These savoury pastries are
served either as part of a meze tray
or on their own as fast food. They can
be flat or rolled, and are filled with
cheese and parsley, spinach or meat.
They make an excellent light snack.
Turkish pastries
9 Pastries
Sweet pastries are sold
in dedicated shops and by street
vendors; tourist restaurants will
offer them as dessert. The most
famous is baklava (flaky pastry
drenched in syrup), but there are
many variations with honey, syrups,
marzipan, almonds and pistachios.
All are heaven to eat and calorie hell.
Tea and
0 Coffee
The lifeblood of
Turkey, both çay
(tea) and kahve
(coffee) are drunk
black, strong and
sweet, in small
quantities. Tea is Traditional
served all day and black tea
on all occasions. You with lemon
can ask for it weaker
(açık) and without sugar. Coffee is
drunk less frequently; it is more
expensive than tea, and is served
with a glass of water. All instant
coffee is known as Nescafé.
Culinary Highlights ❮❮ 49
TOP 10 CULINARY SPECIALITIES
Gözleme
1 Elastic Ice Cream
Maraş dondurması uses wild orchid
tubers as a thickening agent. The
ice cream is able to stretch into a
“rope” 60 cm (2 ft) long!
2 İşkembe Çorbası (Tripe Soup)
This local delicacy is said to be very
good for hangovers.
3 Kanlıca Yoghurt
Firm and creamy, the yoghurt from
Kanlıca is the country’s finest.
4 Lokum (Turkish Delight)
MAP Q2 • Hamidiye Cad 81,
Bahçekapı • (0212) 522 85 43
Turkish delight was invented by an
Istanbul sweetmaker (see p38). It’s
now sold everywhere and in many
flavours. The original shop on
Hamidiye Caddesi is still open.
5 Simit
A simit is a round sesame bread, much
like a New York pretzel.
6 Gözleme
A gözleme is a large rolled pancake
with savoury stuffing.
7 Mantı
These pasta packets are stuffed with
minced lamb and served in a thin
garlic sauce.
8 Aşure (Noah’s Pudding)
As the story goes, this celebratory
pudding was first made by Mrs Noah,
from whatever scraps remained on
the Ark at the end of the flood.
9 Elma Çayı (Apple Tea)
You may be offered this as an
alternative to ordinary tea when
visiting carpet shops.
10 Rakı
A clear spirit, rakı is usually an
aniseed-based liquor similar to
Greek ouzo that is drunk after
being diluted with water.
 50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Restaurants
walls now encloses its pretty
courtyard garden. The modern
Mediterranean food is imaginative
and delicious, and the service is
attentive (see p67).

Alfresco dining at Asitane
1 Asitane
The complex flavours of
5 Feriye Lokantası
Situated in a 19th­century
police station on the Bosphorus
shore, this fashionable restaurant is
taking a fresh look at Turkish cuisine,
combining traditional recipes with
European flair in one of the most
exciting culinary experiences in
the city (see p95).

Ottoman court cuisine are resurrect­

ed (based on extensive research) at
6 Akdeniz
Hatay
Asitane. Hundreds of years later, Sofrası
almond soup, melon stuffed with MAP A6
minced lamb and goose kebabs are • Ahmediye Cad
still fit for a sultan (see p79). 44/A, Aksaray
• (0212) 444 7

2 İmroz
MAP K4 • Nevizade Sokak
247 • ¨
This bustling place Akdeniz Hatay
24, Beyoğlu • (0212) 249 90 73 • ¨ serves up the best Sofrası
Established in 1941, this is one of southeast Turkish
the liveliest, best­value meyhanes food in the city. The tangy meze are
(taverns) on Nevizade Sokak. Go excellent, the rice­stuffed chicken
for the fixed­price menu. roasted in a salt crust and metre­
long kebabs a delight.
3 Yeni Lokanta
MAP J6 Kumbaracı
•

7 Mikla
Yokuşu 66, Beyoğlu • (0212) 292 MAP J5 • The Marmara Pera,

25 50 • ¨ ¨ ¨ Meşrutiyet Cad 15, Beyoğlu

One of the few Beyoğlu restaurants • (0212) 293 56 56 • ¨¨

to attract well­heeled Reserve a terrace table

Istanbulites in from the at the Marmara Pera
suburbs, this stylish place Hotel’s stylish rooftop
concentrates on restaurant for the
good, solid Turkish perfect view of the
dishes with a few Golden Horn – and
modern twists. Book across the city, 17
well in advance. floors below. The
Mediterranean
4 Seasons
Restaurant
cuisine has Turkish
and Nordic touches.
The Seasons is the The decor is elegant
restaurant of the – there’s even a
Four Seasons Hotel, swimming pool by
which was once an the bar. Grab a
Ottoman prison. cocktail and sink into
Glass rather than thick Seasons Restaurant one of the soft sofas.

The terrace at 360
360
8 Rub shoulders with the
swanky young set of Istanbul on
360’s superb terrace bar, taking your
time to drink in the stunning views of
both the Bosphorus and the Golden
Horn, then withdraw to the spacious,
well-lit interior to sample such
eclectic delights as samphire and
soya sprouts, Vietnamese beef
tartare, polenta-crusted calamari,
seafood risotto, lamb loin confit,
Margarita sorbet and pistachio
baklava (see p88).
9 Balıkçı Sabahattin
A truly traditional Turkish
experience, this wonderful fish
restaurant (open since 1927) is
situated in an old house with antique
carpets and copper pots. There’s
also an outdoor terrace with lively
Gypsy violinists. The food is excellent,
although there is no menu – you
choose from a wide range of meze
and the catch of the day (see p67).
0 Giritli
Cretan dishes such as ceviche-
style sea bass and cracked green
olives cured in brine transport
diners to their own little Greek island
for the night. The fixed-price menu
includes unlimited glasses of wine,
a selection of meze and perfectly
prepared fish. The restored historic
house location and pretty restaurant
garden are a bonus (see p67).
For a key to restaurant price ranges see p67
Restaurants ❮❮ 51
TOP 10 ENTERTAINMENT VENUES
1 Al Jamal
Offers a luxurious evening of top-notch
food and belly dancing (see p88).
2 Hodja Pasha Cultural Centre
MAP T4 Hoca Paşa Hamam Sok 3,
•
Sirkeci (0212) 511 46 26
•
•
www.hodjapasha.com
This Ottoman period bathhouse
is the venue for folk and
Whirling dervish performances.
3 Babylon
One of the best sound systems
in town to celebrate rock, world
music and other acts (see p88).
4 Cemal Reşit Rey Concert Hall
MAP B4 Darülbedayı Cad 1,
•
Harbiye (0212) 232 98 30
•
•
www.crrkonsersalonu.org
Daily concerts include Western and
Turkish classical, and world music.
5 Aksanat (Akbank) Cultural Centre
MAP L4 İstiklal Cad 8 (0212) 252
• •
35 00 www.akbanksanat.com
•
This arts centre offers music and theatre.
6 Zorlu Centre
A performing arts centre, which hosts
classical and pop concerts (see p53).
7 Ortaköy
The Bosphorus suburb of Ortaköy
is home to a string of popular
nightclubs including Anjelique,
Reina and Blackk.
8 Nardis Jazz Club
Live jazz performed in an intimate
setting (see p88).
9 Salon İKSV
Istanbul’s top arts organization
hosts great classical and jazz concerts,
plus theatre and film (see p88).
10 Süreyya Opera House
MAP U4 Bahariye Cad 29, Kadıköy
•
•
(0216) 346 15 31
This Art-Deco-inspired 1920s
theatre hosts opera and ballet.
Single City play at Salon İKSV
 52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Shops and Markets
1 Grand Bazaar
(Kapalı Çarşı)
One of the oldest, biggest and most
exciting shopping malls in the world,
the Grand Bazaar was set up to trade
silk, spices and gold in the 15th
century – and still sells all three,
alongside jazzy glass lampshades,
leather jackets and, of course,
Turkish carpets (see pp22–3).
Grand Bazaar
2 Egyptian Bazaar
(Mısır Çarşısı)
Also known as the Spice Bazaar,
this is the best place in town to buy
little presents, with a sea of spice
stalls, piles of Turkish delight and
plenty of cheap and cheerful
souvenirs (see pp70-71).
3 Çarşamba Street Market
(Çarşamba Pazarı)
MAP C3
So famous is this lively street market
that the entire district is named
Çarşamba (Wednesday) after the
day of the week it is held. Many stalls
are stacked with fruit, vegetables,
cheeses, spices, dried fruit and nuts.
Others concentrate on cheap
clothing, while more traditional
items include thin wooden rolling
pins used to make flat breads,
and brass coffee grinders. The
sprawling market stalls occupy
several streets to the north and
west of Fatih Mosque where the
area is devoutly Muslim.
4 İstiklal Caddesi
The city’s main modern
shopping street, İstiklal is packed
day and night throughout the week.
If you need a break from hunting
for bargain designer clothes (in İş
Merkezi) or the perfect glass teacups
(in Paşabahçe), there are plenty of
cafés to choose from (see p86).
5 Nişantaşı
MAP C4
Nişantaşı and neighbouring Teşvikiye
are where local fashionistas spend
their money on international brands,
including Versace and Dior. It is
perhaps less exciting for those who
can get the same thing at home.
6 Arasta Bazaar
(Arasta Çarşısı)
This small, upmarket bazaar
offers the best souvenir shopping
in Sultanahmet. Originally built to
provide money for the upkeep of the
Blue Mosque, it sells good-quality
carpets, jewellery and handicrafts
in a relatively calm environment,
conveniently close to many major
sights and hotels (see p64 & p114).
Second-Hand Book Bazaar
7 Second-Hand Book
Bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı)
The Second-Hand Book Bazaar
started out selling scraps of
parchment with Koranic text. Today,
it mainly stocks textbooks and coffee-
table books about Turkey (see p72).

8 Zorlu Centre
MAP C4 Koru Sokak,
•
Zincirlikuyu • (0850) 222 67 76
• www.zorlucenter.com
Designed by Turkey’s leading
architecture practice, Tabanlioğlu,
this state-of-the-art mall in a
suburb overlooking the Bosphorus
Bridge is worth seeing in its own
right. It contains the PSM perfor-
mance hall, a host of trendy shops
and a high-tech cinema, as well as
Istanbul Raffles Hotel.
The upmarket shopping mall, Kanyon
9 Kanyon,
MAP U3
Levent
Join the city’s most stylish shoppers
at Kanyon, Istanbul’s most architec-
turally distinctive shopping mall.
0 Çukurcuma, Galatasaray
Many travellers fall in love with
this charming old quarter of Beyoğlu,
with its eclectic range of antiques and
second-hand dealers, whose wares
flow out onto the streets around
Turnacıbaşı Sokağı. Great for a
morning’s browsing (see p87).
Çukurcuma antique shop
Shops and Markets ❮❮ 53
TOP 10 THINGS TO BUY
Traditional glass bead jewellery
1 Carpets
Carpets are the true glory of Turkish art
– and you can have one on your own
hall floor.
2 Jewellery
Precious metals are sold by weight,
with a mark-up for workmanship.
There are plenty of options, including
designing your own jewellery.
3 Leather
Jackets, bags, wallets and belts are
great value and come in all styles,
colours and qualities. Again, have
your ideas custom-designed
if you have enough time.
4 Clothes
Shop around and you can find good-
quality clothes and great design at
reasonable prices.
5 Textiles
Both cottons and silks are made here,
and are reasonably priced. Silk scarves
are a great-value present.
6 Spices
Great heaps of coloured spices are
hard to resist. If you buy saffron, check
it’s the real thing – there’s a cheaper
alternative (safflower) on sale.
7 Historic Reproductions
Reproduction Ottoman miniatures
are easy to carry and look great
back at home.
8 Souvenirs
Shop for hand-woven towels and items
hand-made from felt.
9 Blue Beads
The ubiquitous blue bead is actually a
charm to ward off the “evil eye”; believe
that or not, they make attractive gifts.
10 Food
Turkish delight, almonds and
hazelnuts, pomegranate molasses
and all sorts of other comestibles
make great presents.
 54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Istanbul for Free
1 Misir
MAP J5
Apartment
• Istiklal Cad 163, Beyoğlu
This stylish Art Nouveau apartment
block is home to a number of small
but well-regarded art galleries,
including Galeri Zilberman and
Galerist. It’s also worth heading up
to the chic rooftop bar-restaurant,
360 (see p51). Here, you can enjoy a
free panorama of Istanbul or treat
yourself to a pricey drink.
2 Ottoman Mosques
One of Istanbul’s greatest
glories is its stunning array of domed
Ottoman-era mosques, each flanked
by one or more slender minarets.
Many of the mosques have delightful
interiors encrusted with pretty İznik
tiles; all have that indefinable air of
tranquillity and sanctity.
Park Life
3 With a population of at least
14 million, Istanbul can seem an
incredibly congested city. Join the
locals and escape to one of the
city’s green and historic parks.
The best of these are Emirgan
(see p94), Yıldız on the Bosphorus
and Gülhane in the old city.
Down time in Gülhane Park
Visual presentation, SALT Beyoğlu
4 SALT Beyoğlu
MAP J5 İstiklal Cad
•
163, Beyoğlu • (0212) 377 42 00
• www.saltonline.org
This non-profitmaking gallery
opened in a grand old 19th-century
apartment block on bustling İstiklal
Caddesi in 2011, and is now one of
the city’s premier exhibition spaces.
There’s also a café, bookshop, archive
and library, and roof terrace.
5 Walking the
Theodosian Walls
These 5th-century triple defences
saved Constantinople from Attila
the Hun and many others for over
1,000 years. They have survived
remarkably well, and walking their
6-km (4-mile) length from the Sea of
Marmara north to the Golden Horn is
a series of fascinating steps back
into the past (see p77).
6 Churches
Many Byzantine churches
were turned into mosques during the
Ottoman era, but the city retained a
substantial Christian community until
after World War I. Many are still in
use and give a glimpse into the lives
of a dwindling community. Try the
19th-century St Stephen of the
Bulgars or the nearby Greek Orthodox
Church of St George (see p78).
7 Ottoman Bank Museum
MAP F3 Bankalar Cad
•
11, Karaköy • (0212) 334 22 00
• www.saltonline.org
A trip to the immaculately preserved
vaults of an iconic late Ottoman bank
really brings to life what this most

cosmopolitan of neighbourhoods
was like, with its Muslim Turks,
Jews, Christian Armenians and
Greeks. Pop upstairs to see a free
exhibition in SALT Galata, sister
branch to SALT Beyoğlu.
8 Research Centre for
Anatolian Civilizations
MAP J5 • Merkez Han, İstiklal Cad
181, Beyoğlu • (0212) 393
60 00 • www.rcac.ku.edu.tr/en
For well-presented exhibitions of an
archaeological, historical or cultural
nature, this ground-floor display
space is just great. The centre is
part of Koç University and has a well-
stocked specialist library upstairs.
9 Sultan Sarnıç
MAP D2 Yavuz Selim Cad,
•
Fatih • (0212) 521 07 20
This Byzantine cistern is smaller
and less conveniently located, but
is just as stunning as the famous
Basilica Cistern (see p63), with
floodlit columns carved with
Christian crosses and surmounted
by ornate capitals. The Sultan Sarnıç
cistern is usually open to visitors
daily from 9am until early evening
unless there is a function on.
Karaköy Fish Market
Karaköy Fish Market
0 MAP F3
Just west of the Galata Bridge in
Karaköy is a small but authentic
fish market; look out for the hamsi
(anchovies) piled up in season. Walk
west along the scruffy waterfront
towards the Haliç metro bridge and
admire the ferry-filled waters of the
Golden Horn backed by the old city’s
skyline of mosques and minarets.
Istanbul for Free ❮❮ 55
TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
Street food vendors
1 Discounts
For discounts on Istanbul’s top sights,
get a Museum Pass.
www.muzekart.com/en
2 Public Transport
The Istanbulkart saves up to 25 per
cent per journey on public transport.
www.istanbulkart.iett.gov.tr/en
3 Entertainment
Numerous buskers and street
entertainers perform on Beyoğlu’s
İstiklal Caddesi.
4 Alcohol
Restaurants that serve alcohol with
meals are always more expensive.
5 Art Galleries
There are many free art galleries around
İstiklal Caddesi, and street art in
bohemian Galata.
6 Street Food
Street vendors sell cheap snacks, such
as bagel-like simits, rice and chickpeas
and kokoreç (stuffed lamb intestines).
7 Clothing
For cheap clothes, try Beyoğlu İş Merkezi
at İstiklal Cad 331, or Terkoz Çıkmaz İş
Merkezi, off İstiklal Caddesi.
8 Bazaar
The streets surrounding the historic
Spice Bazaar are better value than the
market itself.
9 Ferries
Ferries up the Golden Horn or the
Princes’ Islands are as enjoyable, but
cheaper, than the Bosphorus Cruise.
10 Nightlife
For a lively night at a meyhane (tavern),
it is cheaper to get the all-inclusive deal
with unlimited drinks.
 56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Festivals and Events
Colourful display at Istanbul’s Tulip Festival
1 Tulip Festival
Apr Parks across the city
•
Turkey’s national flower is the tulip
(lale). The tulip motif appeared end­
lessly on İznik tiles and today can
be seen on Turkish Airlines aircraft.
Each April millions of bulbs bloom
across the city, with a competition
to judge the best 100. Roadside
verges become a riot of colour, but
the flowers are best viewed in parks
such as Emirgan and Gülhane.
International Istanbul Film Festival
2 International
Film Festival
Istanbul
Apr • Various venues • (0212) 334 07
00 • www.iksv.org
Since its inception in 1982, this festival
has screened over 3,000 films from 76
countries. A highlight of the festival is
the Award for Lifetime Achievement,
instituted in 1996 – winners include
French stars Alain Delon and Jeanne
Moreau. Most screenings are held in
cinemas around İstiklal Caddesi.
3 One Love Festival
Jul Call to check venue
•
• (0212) 334 01 00 • www.pozitif.info
This two­day midsummer
extravaganza combines top
international acts like Morrissey,
Black Eyed Peas and Manu Chao
with Turkish rock and dance bands.
4 International Istanbul
Music and Dance Festival
Jun • Various venues • (0212) 334 07
00 • www.iksv.org
An impressive array of soloists,
ensembles and orchestras has
graced the stages of this prestigious
festival since it was established in
1973. Mozart’s opera The Abduction
from the Seraglio is staged each
year in Topkapı Palace.
5 International Asia-
to-Europe Swimming,
Rowing and Sailing
Competitions
Jul • (0212) 560 07 07
• www.bogazici.cc
Competitors in this trio of events
cross the Bosphorus from a variety
of starting points: Kanlıca for
swimmers, Arnavutköy for rowers
and Kandilli for yachtsmen. All three
races end at Kuruçeşme. Other events
include water­skiing, jet­skiing and
underwater­swimming displays.
 Festivals and Events ❮❮ 57

6 Feast of Sacrifice
(Kurban Bayramı)
Four days, dates vary
Also known as Eid-ul-Adha, the
Feast of Sacrifice commemorates
the Koranic version of Abraham’s
sacrifice. It falls two months and
ten days after the end of Ramazan
(Ramadan). Muslims celebrate by
slaughtering a sheep on the morning
of the first day of the festival. Friends
and family are invited to a lavish Istanbul Eurasia Marathon
meal, but much of the meat goes to
charity. Note that this is Turkey’s the Bosphorus Bridge closed for part
major annual public holiday – nearly of the day to allow those taking part
everything closes, and public to cross from Europe to Asia.
transport is seriously stretched.

7 International Istanbul 9 Sugar Festival

Jazz Festival
Jul • Various venues • (0212) 334 07
00 • www.iksv.org
The Jazz Festival’s origins lie in a
concert by Chick Corea and Steve
Kujala at the 1984 Istanbul Music
Festival. It was established as an
independent event in 1994. The
musical range is broad, and you are
as likely to encounter Björk or Elvis
Costello as you are Brad Mehldau.
The choice of venues is eclectic, with
traditional clubs, outdoor stages and
even a boat cruising on the Bosphorus.
8 Istanbul
Marathon
Eurasia
(Şeker Ramazan Bayramı)
Three days, dates vary
The Sugar Festival marks the end
of the fasting month of Ramazan.
People hand out sweets, visit
relatives and enjoy cultural events –
and Istanbul’s bars and clubs are
busy again. Many take advantage
of the holiday period and head
out of the city for a few days to
escape the hustle and bustle.
0 International Istanbul
Fine Arts Biennial
Sep–Nov, every other year
(odd numbers) • Various venues
• (0212) 334 07 00 • www.iksv.org

Istanbul’s Biennial showcases

Nov • Call ahead for tickets
• (0212) 453 30 00
• www.istanbulmarathon.org
Every November, athletes have the
chance to take part in the world’s
only transcontinental marathon with
contemporary visual arts from Turkey
and around the globe. Each festival
is directed by a curator of a different
nationality, who chooses a theme and
arranges the programme of exhibi-
tions, conferences and workshops.

Henning Schmeidt Ensemble at the International Istanbul Jazz Festival

Istanbul
Area by Area

Sunset views across the city to

Galata Tower from Topkapı Palace
Sultanahmet and Beyoğlu 82
the Old City 60
The Bosphorus 90
Bazaar Quarter
and Eminönü 68 Asian Istanbul and
Princes’ Islands 96
The Golden Horn,
Fatih and Fener 74
 60 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

Sultanahmet
and the Old City
Many of the city’s greatest sights are to be found in
this historic area, which was in turn the centre of
Byzantium, Constantinople and Ottoman Istanbul.
Archaeologists have dated settlements in this
strategic spot at the entrance to the Golden Horn
to the 6th millennium BC, but recorded history
begins around 667 BC, when Greek colonist Byzas
founded Byzantion on Seraglio Point (now home
to the Topkapı Palace). After his arrival in AD 324,
Constantine transformed this port into the dazzling
jewel of Constantinople, a new capital for the Roman
Empire. By 1453, when the Ottomans seized power,
the city was run-down and ruinous, and the new
Egyptian
Obelisk, rulers stamped their authority – both religious
Hippodrome and secular – on its buildings.

1 Haghia Sophia (Ayasofya)

Consecrated by Justinian in
of Constantine VII Porphryogenitus
(Ormetaş), which is of unknown
537, the “Church of Holy Wisdom” date and was named after the
is an enduring tribute to the skill emperor who had it restored in
of its architects, Anthemius of Tralles the 10th century. The stadium once
and Isidore of Miletus, who created held four great bronze horses, but
a monument that has withstood these were looted by the Crusaders
wars and earthquakes. The scale in 1204 and now grace St Mark’s
of its vast central dome was not Cathedral in Venice.
surpassed until the construction
of St Peter’s in Rome, 1,000 years
later (see pp16–17).
3 Blue Mosque
(Sultanahmet Camii)
Begun in 1609, Sultan Ahmet I’s
2 Hippodrome
MAP Q5
(At Meydanı) mosque was built opposite Haghia
Sophia and directly on top of
Now a peaceful park, the Constantine’s Great Palace to stress
Hippodrome was the Byzantine the supremacy of Islam and the
chariot racetrack – a stadium Ottoman Empire over Christian
capable of holding 100,000 people. Byzantium (see pp18–19).
Laid out in the 3rd century AD by
Emperor Septimius Severus, it
was enlarged and connected
to the adjacent Great Palace by
Constantine. There are three great
monuments in the Hippodrome:
the Egyptian Obelisk, the Obelisk
of Theodosius (Dikilitaş), of c.1500
BC, which Theodosius transported
from Luxor; the Serpentine Column
(Yilanlı Sütun) from the Temple of
Apollo at Delphi in Greece, made in
479 BC; and the Column The Blue Mosque
 Sultanahmet and the Old City ❮❮ 61

AREA MAP OF SULTANAHMET AND THE OLD CITY

İ S TA S Y O N A R K A S I S O K 300 metres
Top 10 Sights Sirkeci
Sirkeci

D AR Ü S S A D E

ĞI
see pp60–63 H

KA
SO
ÜD
Restaurants

O R H A N İ YE

AV
C A D D ES İ

N
see p67 G ü lha ne

TU
EN

HA
SOK
DI
Sultanahmet: The Best
EB Pa rk ı

GA
U

A
SS

T AY
R
of the Rest see p64 U
U

CA
T
CA

D
Old City: The Best of D
the Rest see p65 D
ES
HÜ
İ
Bars, Cafés and KÜ
M Gülhane
Casual Eateries ET
KO
see p66 N
AG
IS
D

O
CA

PR K
OF
GÜ K A
D

RK ZIM
ŞK

YE CA D
CA

N U RUO S MA NI AN İS
Ö

D
YK

CA MA
LA

AR CA

D İL
A

C AĞALOĞLU
İ
-AL

YE
RE SO
K

BA Ğ
SO

ALEMD
B-I

E TA SO UK
ŞM N KA ÇEŞ
ÇE CA
BA

ĞI M
ÇA TA L D E

D İ V A N YO
UN

LU
SOK

CAD
PİYERLOTİ

D AY
P EYK

AHMEYTACI

CADDESİ

AY
CA D

CA ÜM

Sultanahmet M AS
BO

EY O
İSHAK

DA F YA
HA

H
CA

BI

Sultanahmet NI
NE

K LO D FAR E R

BA
M

Parkı
D
SO

TE

CA
K

ÖK

PA

M
N

NI

Ş
ÜÇ

İM
RA

A
GÖ SO

CA
DA

AR
LE

İM
KT K

CA
EY
K

M
NI

K
AŞ

YO

SO

Sİ

DD
M
SO

DA

EH M

K
E

DE
İY

SO
Ç

ES
K
AR

AT

EY

K
GA

SO

İ
ÜN

CA
E
ZD

AN
M

T AĞ A

IK
Dİ

UG
UT

IY
AT

K
TL

RB
YI
KU

SULTANAHMET
BI

TE
AK

C
ŞEHİT MEHM K AD
ET PA SO DE
K

ŞA
ES
YO

Sİ
OK

Şİ
FA
DD

N
İ
L S

ES

HA RU
CA
SO

DD

TO
Dİ
K
M

K
F

CA

SO
AM

TA

OK

D AL AN
KASAP OSMA NT CA R
I

N SOK İR
IS

TA
Y

YA
E

AM UR
AP

OF
ED
LB

S NK K
IR
AYA
KALECİ SOK CA
NAK İ

NN

YIK OK AH
ÜK SO
K A KBI ENİ S
KE

Ç UL DEĞİR
M
KÜ OĞ
MUSTAFA PASA SOK

U SOKA
ĞI 0 metres 200
OYUNC
700 metres 0 yards 200

4 Museum of Turkish
and Islamic Arts
(Türk ve İslam Eserleri Müzesi)
MAP Q5 • At Meydanı Cad 46 •
(0212) 518 18 05 • Open daily Apr–
Oct: 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm
• Adm charge • www.tiem.gov.tr

This museum is housed in the palace

built by İbrahim Paşa (c.1493–1536),
Grand Vizier to Süleyman the
Magnificent. It contains a collection of
more than 40,000 artifacts dating
from the 7th century to the present,
with exhibits of fine art, crafts and
Turkish domestic life in its evolution
from nomad’s tent to modern home. Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts
 62 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Detail, Sirkeci Station
5 Sirkeci Station
(Sirkeci Garı)
MAP R2 • İstasyon Arkasi Sok •
(0212) 520 65 75 • Museum open
9am–5pm Tue–Sat
Officially opened in November 1890,
the glamorous eastern terminus for
the Orient Express service was built
by German architect August Jasmund
in an eclectic style drawing together
elements of Istanbul’s varied archi­
tectural traditions. The station also
houses a railway museum (see p45)
and a modest restaurant. Since the
opening of the Marmaray line in 2013
this grand old station is no longer
SÜLEYMAN I
Known to the West as “the
Magnificent”, Süleyman I preferred the
title Kanuni – “the law-giver”. Taking
the throne aged 26 in 1520, he ruled
for 46 years. During that time, he
doubled the size of the Ottoman
Empire and, as caliph (supreme head
of the Islamic faith), consolidated
Sunni authority over Shia Islam. He also
compiled the Codex Süleymanicus, a
comprehensive legal system that
defined the concept of justice, and
guaranteed equal treatment for all.
Süleyman was a great patron of the
arts, as well as a poet and goldsmith.
the terminus for trains from Europe,
but a mere stop on the metro – albeit
the last one before the continent­
linking Bosphorus Tunnel.
6 Topkapı Palace
(Topkapı Sarayı)
The great palace of the Ottoman
Empire was both the residence and
the centre of government of the early
sultans. The whole complex can take
a full day to explore; highlights
include the Harem and the Treasury
(see pp12–13).
7 Archaeological Museum
(Arkeoloji Müzesi)
This is one of the world’s great
historical museums. It has three
principal sections: the Museum of
the Ancient Orient, which contains,
among other things, the city gates
of Babylon; the Tiled Kiosk, with a
superb display of ceramics; and
the main museum, where royal
sarcophagi found at Sidon in Lebanon
are star exhibits (see pp20–21).
8 Cağaloğlu Baths
(Cağaloğlu Hamamı)
MAP Q3 • Prof Kazım İsmail Gürkan
Cad 34 • (0212) 522 24 24 • Open
daily: men 8am–10pm; women
8am–8pm • Adm charge
• www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr
One of the city’s best­known and
most picturesque bathhouses, the
Cağaloğlu Hamamı were built in
1741 by Sultan Mahmut I, with
the intention of raising funds to
support his library in Haghia Sophia.
International and historical figures,
from King Edward VIII and Florence
Nightingale to Cameron Diaz and
Harrison Ford, are all reputed to
have bathed here. In more recent
times, the baths have been used
as a location for countless films
and fashion shoots.
9 Soğukçeşme
MAP R4
Sokağı
This steeply cobbled street, which
runs between the outer walls of
the Topkapı Palace and Haghia
Sophia, is a sequence of pretty
 Sultanahmet and the Old City ❮❮ 63
Ottoman merchants’ homes. The
street was restored as part of a
1980s project that was one of the
first of its kind in Istanbul. Nine
of the houses form the Ayasofya
Konakları (see p114), the city’s
first “special hotel”, consisting of
64 guest rooms.
0 Basilica Cistern
(Yerebatan Sarnıcı)
Turkish and
Islamic Arts
MAP R4 • Yerebatan Cad 13 • (0212)
522 12 59 • Open daily Apr–Oct:
9am–6:30pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–5:30pm
• Adm charge • www.yerebatan.com
Known as the“Sunken Palace“ in
Turkish the structure had a prosaic
purpose: built as a vast under-
ground water-storage tank. Begun by
Constantine, it was expanded by
Justinian in 532 to ensure that
Constantinople was always supplied
with water; covering an area of 9,800
sq m (105,000 sq ft), it once held
about 80 million litres (18 million
gallons). The cistern roof is supported
by 336 pillars, 8 m (26 ft) in height.
Look for the upside-down Medusa
heads, reused from older buildings.
Istanbul’s most unusual tourist
attraction is also popular as a film
location and a venue for concerts.
Medusa head, Basilica Cistern
A DAY IN SULTANAHMET
To Eminönü
(350m)
Archaeological
Museum
Topkapı
Cağaloğlu
Palace
Baths
Basilica
Cistern
Divanyolu
Soğukçeşme
Sokağı
Hippodrome Haghia
Sophia
Museum of
Blue Mosque
Arasta Bazaar
Mosaic Museum
MORNING
Start your day at the dawn call of
the müezzin, so that you are ready
to visit the Blue Mosque (see pp18–
19) as soon as it opens. From
there, cross the square to Haghia
Sophia (see pp16–17), then pay a
visit to the Basilica Cistern, the
Hippodrome (see p60) and the
Museum of Turkish and Islamic
Arts (see p61) before having a
gentle stroll through the Arasta
Bazaar (see p64) to the Mosaic
Museum (see p64). This may
sound like too much for a single
morning, but the distance
between each of these attractions
is small, and most of the sites are
fairly simple. You’ll need a little
time to relax after this, so choose
one of the cafés or restaurants on
Divanyolu (see p64) for lunch.
AFTERNOON
Now choose one of two options:
either walk across to the Topkapı
Palace and spend the whole
afternoon embroiled in Ottoman
court intrigue, mayhem and
murder; or wander through the
side streets to the Cağaloğlu
Baths for a Turkish bath before
rejoining Soğukçeşme Sokağı
and making your way to the vast
Archaeological Museum (see
pp20–21). When you’ve had your
fill, continue down the hill for
a peaceful stroll along the
waterfront at Eminönü; then
take the tram back up the hill
to Sultanahmet and choose
one of the many rooftop bars or
restaurants from which to watch
the sun set over the city and the
floodlights playing on Haghia
Sophia and the Blue Mosque.
See map on p61
 64 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Sultanahmet: The Best of the Rest
1 Sultanahmet
Square 5 Kaiser Wilhelm
Fountain
(Sultanahmet Meydanı)
MAP R4
This leafy square,
once the hippodrome
of Constantinople, lies
between the Blue Mosque
and Haghia Sophia.
2 The Milion
Monument Kaiser Wilhelm
Fountain
(Milyon Taşi)
MAP R4 Haghia Sophia
•
The marble pilaster of the Milion
can be found in the northern corner
of Sultanahmet Square. From the
4th century AD, it was used as
“point zero” for the measurement
of distances to the many cities of
the Byzantine Empire.
3 Baths of Roxelana
(Hürrem Sultan Hamamı)
MAP R5 • Ayasofya Meydanı
• (0212) 517 35 35 • Open 8am–10pm
daily • www.ayasofyahamami.com
These baths were built for Süleyman
the Magnificent, and are named after
the sultan’s apparently scheming wife.
4 Great Palace
Mosaic Museum
(Büyük Sarayı Mozaik Müzesi)
MAP R6 • Arasta Bazaar
• (0212) 518 12 05 • Open 9am–
6pm (summer); till 4pm (winter)
• Adm charge
Little remains of Emperor Justinian’s
vast 6th-century palace except for
an elaborate mosaic floor.
Great Palace Mosaic Museum
MAP R5 At Meydanı
•
German Emperor Wilhelm
II presented this Neo-
Byzantine fountain to Sultan
Abdül Hamit II in 1901.
6 Arasta Bazaar
(Arasta Çarşısı)
MAP R5 • Open 9am–
9pm daily
The bazaar was originally
built to provide revenue for the Blue
Mosque. Today, there are around 40
shops selling carpets, textiles,
jewellery and other souvenirs.
7 Caferağa Medresesi
MAP R4 Caferiye Sok,
•
Soğukkuyu Çıkmazı 1 • (0212) 513
36 01 • Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat
Watch craftspeople create art, from
ceramics to calligraphy, in this 16th-
century Koranic college, then take the
product home or sign up for a course.
8 Divanyolu
MAP Q4
Caddesi
Divanyolu was once the Mese – the
main thoroughfare – of Byzantine
Constantinople and Ottoman
Istanbul, and continued all the
way to the Albanian coast.
9 Cistern of 1,001 Columns
(Binbirdirek Sarnıcı)
MAP Q4 • Binbirdirek, İmran Öktem
Cad 4 • (0212) 518 10 01 • Open daily
• Adm charge • www.binbirdirek.com
There are only 224 columns in this
elegant 4th-century cistern. It is
home to several cafés and hosts live
music and events.
0 Carpet Museum
(Halı Müzesi)
MAP S4 • Bab-ı Humayan Cad,
Sultanahmet • (0212) 512 69 93
• www.halimuzesi.com
The old Ottoman soup kitchen near
Hagia Sophia is home to some of
Anatolia’s oldest carpets and kilims.
 Sultanahmet and the Old City ❮❮ 65

Old City: The Best of the Rest

1 Haghia Eirene
(Aya İrini Kilisesi)
MAP S4 • Topkapı Palace (1st
courtyard) • (0212) 512 04 80
• Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun

• Adm charge

Built in the 6th century on the

site of an earlier church, Haghia
Eirene was the city’s cathedral until
Haghia Sophia was built. Later an
Ottoman arsenal, it is now a
museum and used for concerts.
Ruins of the Bucoleon Palace
2 Imperial Tombs
MAP Q4 Divanyolu Cad
•

7 Bucoleon Palace
Designed by Garabet Balyan, the MAP Q6 Kennedy Cad
•

tombs of three of the last Ottoman Three vast marble windows stare
sultans, Mahmut II, Abdül Aziz and sightlessly out to sea from this last
Abdül Hamid II, lie beside busy standing fragment of the Great
Divanyolu in a peaceful graveyard. Palace, built into the sea wall.

3 History of Islamic
Science and
Technology Museum
MAP R2 • Gülhane Park • (0212)
528 80 65 • Open 9am–5pm Wed–
Mon • Adm charge • www.ibttm.org
Among the exhibits at this well-laid-
out museum are fantastic models
of scientific inventions.
4 Sea Walls
MAP M6–S6 • Kennedy Cad
Believed to be built by Septimius
Severus and extended by Theodosius
(see p77), the walls are best viewed
from the main coastal road.
8 Sokollu Mehmet
Paşa Mosque
MAP P5 • Camii Kebir Sok • Open
daily except during prayers; may
need the keyholder to see inside
the mosque
Built by Sinan for Grand Vizier
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa, this lovely
mosque behind the Hippodrome
contains some fine İznik tiles, an
elaborately painted ceiling and
four tiny black stones from the
Kaaba in Mecca.
9 Review Pavilion
(Alay Köşkü)
MAP R3 Topkapı Palace
•

5 Church of SS Sergius
and Bacchus
(Küçük Ayasofya Camii)
MAP P6 Küçük Ayasofya Camii Sok
•
Known as “Little Haghia Sophia”,
this church was built in 527 and
converted into a mosque in 1500. The
marble columns and carved frieze
with a Greek inscription are original.
Built into the outer walls of the
Topkapı Palace, this small imperial
pavilion overlooked the Sublime
Porte, the entrance to the seat of
government in later Ottoman times.
Sultan İbrahim the Crazy took pot
shots at passersby from here.
0 Column of the Goths
MAP S2 Gülhane Park
•

Kumkapı
6 MAP M6
The old Byzantine harbour of
Kumkapı is now home to a plethora
of lively fish restaurants (see p67).
Erected to commemorate a great
Roman victory over the Goths in
the 3rd century, this fine 18-m-
(60-ft-) high column is topped by
an ornate Corinthian capital.
See map on p61
 66 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

Bars, Cafés and Casual Eateries

style pub grub and, of course,
watching the game. Flyers posted
outside the pub tell you what’s on.

6 Çaferağa Medresesi
MAP R4 Caferiye Sokak
•

Enjoy a cup of coffee or opt for a

light meal in the courtyard of this
atmospheric, Sinan-designed café,
Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi located near Haghia Sophia.

1 Çorlulu Ali Paşa

Medresesi 7 Çiğdem Pastanesi
MAP Q4 Divanyolu Cad 62
•

MAP Q4 • Divanyolu Cad 36 Enjoy traditional Turkish tea or a

Lounge on cushions in one of several well-made cappuccino at this classic
atmospheric teashops with locals patisserie. If you’re in the mood
puffing on the nargile. No alcohol. for a light snack, the sticky, honey-
drenched baklava is a local favourite.
2 Doy-Doy
MAP Q5 Sifa Hamamı Sok 13
•

This cheerful place has a good

selection of kebabs, pizza, salads
and vegetarian options. No alcohol.

3 Tahiri Sultanahmet
MAP Q4 Divanyolu Cad 12
•

The speciality of this long-

established institution is tasty
meatballs with bean salad and spicy Playing backgammon at Café Meşale
tomato sauce. It has now been
surrounded by other cafés with
suspiciously similar names. Make
8 Café Meşale
MAP R5 Arasta Bazaar
•

sure you find the right one! A quiet place for a cup of tea
and nargile during the day, in the
4 Lale Restaurant
(Pudding Shop)
evening Café Meşale becomes a
restaurant with live music and
MAP Q4 Divanyolu Cad 6
•
Whirling dervish performances.
Once an essential stop on the “Hippy
Trail”, with a message board and
copious quantities of cheap food,
9 Arcadia Blue
Terrace Bar
Lale has lost a little atmosphere MAP Q4 Dr Imran Oktem Cad 1
•

but is still great for visitors. This bar is not the most atmospheric
The food is good value, the service or best value, but the views of the old
is friendly and they offer draught city, Bosphorus, Sea of Marmara and
beer and free Wi-Fi. hills of Asia are just superb.

5 Port Shield
MAP R3 Ebusuut Cad 2,
•
0 Yeşil Ev Beer Garden
MAP R5 Kabasakal Cad 5
•

Sirkeci Part of the Yeşil Ev Hotel, this

The best sports bar in the old city, delightful garden bar has seating
Port Shield is always packed with in a glassed conservatory and is a
visitors drinking the local lager, Efes great place to chill out. On offer are
Pilsen, tucking into international- cakes, coffee and alcohol.
 Sultanahmet and the Old City ❮❮ 67
Restaurants
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
course for one without alcohol, and
including taxes and extra charges.
¨ under ¨ 45 ¨ ¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90
1 Sarnıç
MAP R4 • Soğukçeşme
Sok • (0212) 512 42 91 • ¨¨
The atmosphere is fabulous in this
romantically converted Byzantine
cistern serving Turkish/French
cuisine. Book ahead.
2 Paşazade
MAP R3 İbn-I Kemal Cad 13,
•
Sirkeci • (0212) 513 37 57 • ¨¨
The best-value place to try
recreations of Ottoman style dishes,
which differ markedly from modern
Turkish food. Good choice of wines.
3 Giritli
MAP R6 •Keresteci Hakkı
Sok 8 • (0212) 458 22 70 • ¨¨¨
Fine fish and a bountiful array of
unusual mezes are the stars at
this Cretan-style eatery.
Entrance to Giritli
4 Khorasani
MAP Q4 Ticarethane
•
Sok 39/41 • (0212) 519 5959 • ¨¨
Khorasani’s southeast Turkish
specialities are delicious, with
the emphasis on freshly prepared
kebabs cooked over charcoal.
Starters, Seasons Restaurant
5 Seasons Restaurant
MAP R5 Four Seasons
•
Hotel, Tevfikhane Sok 1
• (0212) 402 30 00 • ¨¨¨
Top-class contemporary European
cuisine with a hint of Asian fusion.
6 Amedros
MAP Q4 Hoca Rüstem Sok 7,
•
off Divanyolu • (0212) 522 83 56 • ¨¨
A bistro serving Turkish and European
food, with good vegetarian options.
7 Matbah
MAP R4 Ottoman Hotel
•
Imperial, Caferiye Sok 6 • (0212)
514 61 51 • ¨¨¨
Tasty Ottoman and Turkish classics
served in a lovely terrace restaurant.
8 Balıkçı Sabahattin
MAP R5 Seyit Hasankuyu
•
Sok 1, off Cankurtaran Cad • (0212)
458 18 24 • ¨¨¨
One of the city’s finest fish
restaurants since 1927.
9 Kumkapı
MAP M6 • ¨¨
There are many meyhanes (taverns)
to choose from in this old fishing
neighbourhood, serving fresh fish
and meze washed down with rakı.
Musicians play traditional fasil to
the tables and expect to be tipped.
0 Mozaik Restaurant
MAP Q4 İncirli Çavuş Sok 1,
•
off Divanyolu • (0212) 512 41 77 • ¨¨
This popular restaurant serves
a mix of Turkish and international
favourites and is set in a restored
19th-century Ottoman house.
See map on p61
 68 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

Bazaar Quarter
and Eminönü
In 1453, following his conquest of Constantinople,
Sultan Mehmet II chose this area, close to the
Graeco-Roman Forum of the Bulls, as the place to
begin construction of a model city based on Islamic
principles. The key ingredients were mosques and
medreses (religious schools), charitable institutions,
accommodation for travellers, and a Grand Bazaar
– the latter funding all the others and a great deal
more besides. All these were constructed – and many
still remain – in one of the city’s most fascinating and
vibrant districts, where you can buy, with equal ease,
Çemberlitaş a plastic bucket and an antique silk carpet, an ancient
Baths religious text or a kilo of peppercorns.

AREA MAP OF BAZAAR QUARTER AND EMINÖNÜ

KIB KIB
H A H A MU MU LE LE
K A SKNAASKNÇAI LKAR
Ç I L AR K K N İ NHİ HR AT R AT ÇE ÇE
C A DCDES İ İ
A D DES M AM A SM SM
S O KSEO Y RKİE Y REİ F E E F E
KAAĞHI REMİSNO

Top 10 Sights
TİN
ZIT CAD
ZIT CAD

EC EC K K
NAMA HREM S

K A PKEA YPEE Y EN D N D
T

A D A D UT UT
KATİP SEMSET
KATİP SEMISET

Ğ I NĞEI N E I I UC UC
see pp68–71 KÇ KÇ S S
İ S İ S
UL UL
AR AR
SOKAĞ

OK
OK

AB AB CA CA
OM

D D
OR D PROF A DDESİ
OR D PROF A DİD

UN UN
Cafés and
B E YA
B E YA

NSA

S O SHOA H A
K A KNAE N E
Ğ I ĞSII S I
Restaurants see p73 FETVFAETVA
YOKYOK
RI
RI

UŞ UŞ
SA
SA

I M İ M İU U TA TA
H A K MME I S O R
MI ER

The Best of the Rest

MA C I L K
K

C A D DE S İ
C A D DE S İ

I SOK SOK
C
CEMİ ESİ EL
C
CEM LBİ L
D ÖM A C I L E

SO

Ğ Ğ AĞ AĞ
HT
HT KAL
Y O ĞUR T Ç U O Ğ L U K İR A Z L I MES C İT
Y O ĞUR T Ç U O Ğ L U K İR A Z L I MES C İT

A A I I
M
M

K K
see p72
A
AK E
AR
AR SİN

HA KME

SO SO
LBİ LS

AL
Sİ N

E E TO TO
SOK
SOK

DÖ
NA C

N N M M
A

EL

A A
N AD

H H RU RU
A A K K
U ZU N Ç A RŞ I
U ZU N Ç A RŞ I

Hİ Hİ
CA
P R KAN NİS KAĞ
P R F S Nİ KADĞR

F F SO SO
C

MM MM Sİ Sİ
SİYAVUŞ PAŞA
SİYAVUŞ PAŞA
D
O
O D D ME IESE

ET ET K K
F
S I I K DRE Sİ
KA

SO SO
D SA

CE CE
NU S O

SOK
SOK

V EVFA
E FA
D
U OME I

M M K K
I K M ESİ

AL AL
SA

İ İ
M

YE YE O O
NA NA
NE NE
S

R R R R
İ ESİ
C A DCDAEDSD İYEETİYCAD
İSMİESTM E CAD V A SVIA
FSIF
TO TO
F U AT PA ŞA C A D D E S İ
F U AT PA ŞA C A D D E S İ

S Y S YTAŞ TTEAKŞNTEK N
TA C İ R H A N E S O K
TA C İ R H A N E S O K

AL AL
SO K A Ğ I

EL EL
D
D

ÖRÜCÜLER CADDESİ
ÖRÜCÜLER CADDESİ
İY C A
CA

I I ER ER
CA CA S O KS O K
AN E
E

DD DD
M İY
EN CAD
D

B E S İ M Ö M E R PA Ş A C A D D
B E S İ M Ö M E R PA Ş A C A D D
S OK
S OK
CA

LE AN

ŞE ŞE ES ES
Dİ
Dİ

SÜ M

HZ HZ İ İ
LE
DE EFEN

ADAD
SÜ
EF

E E
K
OK
DE
DE

CA SO

BA BA
İS
DE

M KALENDER AMİİ

ŞI ŞI
Mİ

BO Z D O Ğ A N K E M E Rİ C A D
BO Z D O Ğ A N K E M E Rİ C A D
C

CA CA
ES İT Rİ
Rİ
DD Sİ
İ
ES

DD SŞİEH LE
İ LE
ER

DD DD AD AD
İ
İ

A N ACN C
CADDE

CA DRTE HİT
KALEND
ES
ES

M E RMCE R C
TIĞ
TIĞ ILAR

ES ES
DD
DD

E
ADA T Ş

İ İ
C
CI

B EBYA
E YA
Z IZTI T
CA
CA
CA

LA SO
16 AR
CM

Vezneciler
Vezneciler
16
VZ E
E

SO

AD AD
ESİ
ESİ
İY
İY

ACAC VE VE
G E N ÇT R K
K

K
K
VZ

PAŞ PAŞ
ÜR

Z Z
B Ü YÜK R EŞİ T PA Ş A C A D
B Ü YÜK R EŞİ T PA Ş A C A D

C A NC AE CN E C
FE
FE

İK İK
Ü

TELİVTFE V F
Lİ N
YOKUŞU VİDİVNİDİ
G E N ÇT

YOKUŞU
ÇADIRCIL
ÇADIRCIL

SOKSOK D Dİ L İ L
ER ER
F E T H İ B EY C A D
F E T H İ B EY C A D

H A RİKZED EL E R SOK
H A RİKZED EL E R SOK

Ü N İÜ
VNE Rİ VSİETRESİ TCEADC AD
OK OK
F İ L SF İ L S
M A HM A H
A R CA D
A R CA D

KURULTAY
KURULTAYSOKAĞI
SOKAĞI
BEYAZIT
BEYAZIT
MEYDANI
MEYDANI
O RODRUD UC ACDADDEDS Eİ S İ
Aksaray
Aksaray YEN
Y Eİ ÇNEİ Ç E
K O C A R AG I P C A D
K O C A R AG I P C A D
Ş A İR F İ T NAT S OK D E S İ
Ş A İR F İ T NAT S OK

Laleli-
Laleli- R İ LREİRL E R
KO
KO

Univ.
Univ.
SOK
SOK
SKA
SKA

Beyazıt
Beyazıt
ÇA
ÇRA ŞRIŞKI A
K PAIP I
Lİ CAMİİ
Lİ CAMİİ

Ş A I RŞ A I RHA ŞM
HAEŞM
T E TSOKSOK
D
· İ ŞA C AD

-I A SOK
K

A Ğ IA Ğ I
SO

S O ĞSAO Ğ A
ŞA C A
Ü İ N AN
AN

CAD
CAD

N AN
SO K
SO K
LÂ L ELİ C AD
LÂ L ELİ C AD

Ğ AA Ğ A
OK
OK

· İV I ALİ
Lİ
CA
CA

İN

C A MC A M
YU S
YU S

İ İ Sİ İ S
OK L S
OK L S

N-
DD
D

AN

OK OK
G E D İ K PA
G E D İ K PA
N LI
N LI

M E SMİ H E SDİ E S İ
C ADCDAD
TRO
TRO

E S İ PAŞ A A
H PAŞ
DİREK
DİREK

VA
Ü

SÜ MSÜBM B
ESİ

KU
KU

S S
D
D
T U RA
T U RA

T İYA
T İYA

D E RDİEN R İ N
 Bazaar Quarter and Eminönü ❮❮ 69

part is the domed İç Bedesten, a

lockable warehouse used for trading
and storing the most valuable wares.
Today, as well as covered streets
containing thousands of shops and
stalls, there are cafés, restaurants
and teahouses. Several hans –
originally travellers’ inns – are
now mostly workshops and small
factories (see pp22–3).

2 Süleymaniye Mosque
(Süleymaniye Camii)
Colourful Ceramics, Grand Bazaar Built for Süleyman I in 1550–57, this
mosque is the largest and most lavish
1 Grand Bazaar
(Kapalı Çarşı)
in the city. Süleyman and his wife
Roxelana are both buried here, while
The bazaar was one of the first the great Mimar Sinan, architect of the
institutions established by Mehmet mosque, is buried just outside the
the Conqueror after 1453. Its oldest main complex in a tomb he designed
and built himself (see pp26–7).

EM
EMİ Nİ Ö
NÖNÜ
NÜ
3 Çemberlitaş Baths
(Çemberlitaş Hamamı)
Nurbanu, wife of the drunken Selim
Eminönü
Eminönü
Eminönü
Eminönü the Sot (son of Süleyman and
EMİNÖNÜ
EMİNÖNÜ
MEYDANI
MEYDANI
RE RE
ŞA ŞA
Roxelana), commissioned these
A A İ Y Eİ Y E D D
baths from Sinan in 1584. In those
C
C

M M
İS D
D

C AC A
İ Mİ M days, they were run as a charitable
HM CA
CA

D D
EY EY
TA M İ S

DA DA YA YA
NI NI LI LI
foundation; today they are distinctly
H

SO SO K Ö ŞKÜ
K Ö ŞKÜ C ADCDAD
E SİD E Sİ
TA

K K
more upmarket. Their gracious
ÇİÇ ÇİÇ
M AD
D

EK EK HA HA
CA

PA PA S İSRİ KR EKCE İC İ
CA İ C

Mİ Mİ
NI
NI

domed halls make them a popular

CA
CA

ZA ZA D D
İ
BU AĞ HA
KA HA

RI RI İYE İYE
M

AM

ĞI M
D
D

CA

KA LA

CA CA
tourist attraction (see pp30–31).
S ES O K L İ S L

SO SO
S O N C UI
ĞI
SASOK CU

S O Ü LĞİ SI

KA KA
ĞI ĞI
DD DD
YENİ
YENİ

YH A
N

ES ES
Ü
BU

ŞEH ŞEH İ İ
YH

PEH PEİH N İN
SA

SE

4 Beyazıt Square
LEV LŞEAVHŞAH Sirkeci
Sirkeci
Ç I NÇAI N A I CA I CA
R RC A D
CAD D D
(Beyazıt Meydanı)
HO HO A Ş İA Ş İ
F İN C A NC I L A R
F İN C A NC I L A R

AN ARA
AN

CA CA R ER E
F E NF E N
SOKAĞI

H H
Dİ Dİ
KA
K
AN
AN

CA CA
DD DD MAP M3
U K Ç ILAR
U K Ç ILAR

I SOK
I SOK

RA

CE CE ES ES
İ İ
M M
This grand open space has been one
MAHMUT
MAHMUT

AL AL
A
A

K M U ŞK M U Ş
Ç A O KÇ A O K
K KH O H O
SO SO
N N
AD AD of the city’s principal meeting places
CA
CA D E

Y Y İR İR
CA
CA

for centuries. Popularly known as

PAŞA YO
PAŞA YO

R R SO SO
FE FE
D
D D Sİ
ÇARKÇILAR SOK
ÇARKÇILAR SOK

KA KA
H AN
H AN
TA R AK Ç I CA
TA R AK Ç I CA

ĞI ĞI
Beyazıt Square, its official name is
ŞU
ŞU
ES
I SOK
I SOK

CAĞALOĞLU YOKU
CAĞALOĞLU YOKU

CA
CĞAA
Ğ LAOL O
Ğ LĞUL U
İ
K U ŞU
K U ŞU

BIKSOKT Ü T Ü
SO
Freedom Square (Hürriyet Meydanı).
KTEBKITE
ANE ME
SU LTSAUNLTM RK RK
OC OC It stands on the site of the late
Roman Forum Tauri (Forum of the
AĞ AĞ
I I
C E LCAELL A L F E RFDE IR D I C A C A
D D
Bulls), which was extended by
VE
VE

Emperor Theodosius in 393. The

ZİR
ZİR
HAN
HAN

Ş EFRE FE F EENFDEİN DSİ O KSAĞ

Ş E RE O KIAĞ I KA KAP P
GÜ ZGIÜM ZRIOM RO
RK RİKS FİS F
forum gained its name from the
I
I

bronze bull at its centre, a place of

CAD
CAD

YEA DC A D
A NIC
NI YE
U OASM AN AMNA MA
N U RNUUORSM
CA D
CA D

ĞI ĞI CA CİLA İL
D D
sacrifice in the pre-Christian era.
KA
KA

BAB I ALİ
Lİ
SO
SO

Some of its colonnades were reused

-I A
R
R
EDA
EDA

in the building of the Basilica Cistern

BAB

K K
TÜRB
TÜRB

C ACDA D SO SO
ME ME
Ç E ŞÇ E Ş
Ç A TÇAALT A L (see p63), while others lie abandoned
Çemberlitaş
Çemberlitaş along the tram tracks on Ordu
Caddesi. The square has a daily flea
K
SOTKİ
R LO T İ
E V K A F SOK
E V K A F SOK

AHMETA C I
CI
B OYASO
ETLO

0 metres
0 metres 200200
CAD
CAD
B OY

market, and is home to the Beyazıt

MR
PAİHYE
P İ YE

0 yards
0 yards 200200
Mosque and Istanbul University.
 70 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Galata Bridge facing the New Mosque
5 Galata Bridge
(Galata Köprüsü)
MAP F3
The predecessor of this modern bridge
across the Golden Horn was an iron
pontoon structure of 1909–12. It was
underequipped for modern traffic
and was replaced in 1994 by the
current two-level concrete bridge.
The city views from the lower level,
especially at sunset, are breath-
8 Rüstem Paşa Mosque
taking. Parts of the old bridge,
further up the Golden
Horn near Ayvansaray,
have been re-erected.
Constantine’s
6 Column
(Çemberlitaş)
MAP P4 • Divanyolu Cad
Built of Egyptian
porphyry, this column,
35 m (115 ft) tall, once Tile detail, Rüstem
Paşa Mosque
stood in the centre of the
Forum of Constantine. It
was erected as part of the
inauguration of the Roman Empire’s
new capital in 330. Constantine
buried holy relics – said to have
included the axe Noah used to
build his ark – around the base. Its
9 (Mısır Çarşısı)
Turkish name, Çemberlitaş (Hooped
Column), refers to the reinforcing
metal hoops added in 416 and
replaced in the 1970s.
Eminönü
7 MAP N1
From the Grand Bazaar, steep alleys
crowded with market stalls lead
down through Tahtakale to the
Eminönü waterfront. It’s a great
place to roam, with mosques and
markets, Ottoman warehouses,
street sellers offering everything
from simits to fake watches, and a
bank of piers with ferries to every
part of the city, all split by the swirl
of traffic along the dual carriageway
that leads around the coast.
(Rüstem Paşa Camii)
MAP N1 • Mahkeme Sok • (0212)
526 73 50 • Open
9am–dusk daily
This enchanting
mosque was built
by Sinan in 1561. It
was commissioned
by Süleyman the
Magnificent’s daughter
Mihrimah in memory of
her husband, Rüstem
Paşa, Süleyman’s Grand
Vizier. The mosque
blazes with richly
coloured İznik tiles, inside and out,
while galleries and windows flood
the hall with light.
Egyptian Bazaar
MAP P1 • Eminönü • Open
8am–7:30pm daily
This marketplace was built in 1660
as part of the New Mosque complex.
Its name derives from the fact that it
was originally financed by duties
on Egyptian imports, although it is
better known in English as the Spice
Bazaar because, for centuries,
spices were the main goods sold
here. These days, the bazaar has
 Bazaar Quarter and Eminönü ❮❮ 71
given itself over entirely to satisfying
the tourist trade – it, and more,
especially the streets around it, are
the best place to buy small presents,
from lokum (Turkish delight) and
phials of saffron, to pistachios,
almonds, incense and coffee.
0 New Mosque
(Yeni Cami)
MAP P1 • Eminönü • (0212) 512 23
20 • Open 9am–dusk daily
This large, rather gloomy mosque
was commissioned in 1597 by Valide
Sultan Safiye, mother of Sultan
Mehmet III. Work was interrupted
when the architect was executed for
heresy and Safiye was banished after
her son’s death. It was completed in
1663 by Valide Sultan Turhan Hatice,
mother of Sultan Mehmet IV. The
interior is richly decorated but has
relatively poor-quality İznik tiles.
Facing the mosque are the
tombs of Valide Sultan Turhan
Hatice, Mehmet IV, five other
sultans and many princes
and princesses.
New Mosque
EMPEROR CONSTANTINE
The son of a leading army officer,
Constantine (c.272–337) became one
of a triumvirate of rulers of the Roman
Empire. In 312, following a religious
vision, he defeated his main rival,
Maxentius, while fighting under
the sign of the Christian cross. On
becoming sole emperor in 324, he
declared Christianity the state religion.
In 325, he called the Council of Nicaea,
which laid down the basic tenets of the
faith. In 330, he inaugurated his new
capital, Constantinople. On his
deathbed, he formally converted to
Christianity, and was buried at the city’s
Church of the Holy Apostles (see p75).
A DAY’S SHOPPING
Rüstem Paşa
Mosque
Hamdi
Et Lokantası
Darüzziyafe
New
Mosque
Tahtakale
Egyptian
Bazaar
Süleymaniye Caddesi
Mosque
Grand
Bazaar
Nuruosmaniye
Mosque
Beyazıt Çemberlitaş
Square Baths
MORNING
Start the day clean and refreshed
after a visit to the Çemberlitaş
Baths (see p69), then pop into the
Nuruosmaniye Mosque (see p72)
before getting down to the real
business of the day in the Grand
Bazaar (see p69). Take a break
at one of the cafés in the bazaar
and enjoy a coffee, then walk on
through Beyazıt Square (see p69)
and down the hill to Süleymaniye
Mosque (see p69) to pay your
respects at the tombs of Süleyman
and Roxelana. A good option
for lunch is the Darüzziyafe
restaurant (see p73), or try one
of the cafés next to the mosque.
AFTERNOON
Leave the mosque along İsmetiye
Caddesi, turn left into Uzunçarşı
Caddesi and head down the hill
through crowded market streets,
where metal- and woodworkers
still ply their trade, before turning
right on Tahtakale Caddesi, a
sensory treat with its traditional
spice and coffee sellers. Carry on
downhill and eventually you will
end up in Eminönü, where you
can visit the Rüstem Paşa
Mosque and look at the New
Mosque before a last round
of shopping – if you have the
stamina – in the Egyptian Bazaar.
Between the New Mosque and
the Egyptian Bazaar is the market
for flowers, plants, seeds and
songbirds. Have dinner at Hamdi
Et Lokantası (see p73) or
Paşazade near Sirkeci Station
(see p67) – or take the tram back
up to Sultanahmet and choose a
rooftop bar or restaurant from
which to enjoy sunset views.
See map on pp68–9
 72 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

The Best of the Rest

1 Second-Hand Book
Bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı)
MAP M4 Sahaflar Çarşısı Sok
•

Manuscripts have been traded in this

courtyard since medieval times,
although printed books were banned
until 1729. Academic textbooks and
coffee table books on Turkey are now
predominately sold here.

2 Arch of Theodosius
MAP M4 Beyazıt Meydanı
•
Laleli Mosque
A jumble of massive, fallen columns
litter the side of the road in Beyazıt
Square, all that remains of the 4th-
7 Laleli Mosque
(Laleli Cami)
century triumphal Arch of Theodosius. MAP D5 • Ordu Cad
The similarly carved columns in the • Open prayer times only

Basilica Cistern (see p63) were
clearly taken from here.
3 Beyazıt Tower
(Beyazıt Kulesi)
MAP M3 • Off Fuat Paşa Cad
• Closed to the public
This elegant marble tower, built
in 1828 as a fire lookout, is in
the Istanbul University grounds.
4 Beyazıt Mosque
(Beyazıt Camii)
MAP M4 • Ordu Cad
• (0212) 212 09 22
Built in 1506 for Beyazıt II, Beyazıt Tower
this is the oldest surviving
imperial mosque in Istanbul.
The Laleli Mosque was built by
Mustafa III in 1763, with lavish
use of coloured marble in the
new Ottoman Baroque style.
Mustafa is buried here.
8 Nuruosmaniye
Mosque
(Nuruosmaniye Cami)
MAP P4 • Vezirhanı Cad
Completed by Sultan Osman
III in 1755, Nuruosmaniye
was the first Ottoman
Baroque mosque in the
city. The mosque is part
of a larger complex that
includes an Islamic
school and a library.

5 Atik Ali Paşa Mosque

(Atik Ali Paşa Camii) 9 Hodja Pasha
Cultural Centre
MAP P4 Yeniçeriler Cad
• MAP Q2 • Hoca Paşa Hamam Sok 3,
This 15th-century copy of the original Sirkeci • (0212) 511 46 26
Fatih Mosque is named after its A superb setting for Whirling
builder, Grand Vizier to Beyazıt II. dervishes in a restored bathhouse.

6 Kalenderhane Mosque
(Kalenderhane Camii) 0 Istanbul University
MAP M2–3 Beyazıt Meydanı •

MAP E5 • 16 Mart Şehitleri Cad • • (0212) 512 52 57

Open daily except during prayer times
Built on the site of a 5th-century
bathhouse, it was remodelled in the
12th century as the Church of
Theotokus Kyriotissa and then into
a mosque. Don’t miss the superb
Byzantine marble in the prayer hall.
Turkey’s oldest higher education
institution, the university moved
to its present campus in 1866.
Security is very tight, but
it is usually possible to walk
through the grounds during
the working week.
 Bazaar Quarter and Eminönü ❮❮ 73
Cafés and Restaurants
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
course for one without alcohol, and
including taxes and extra charges.
¨ under ¨ 45 ¨ ¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90
1 Pandeli
MAP P1 Mısır Çarşısı 1
•
• (0212) 527 39 09 • ¨¨
Set in a domed, İznik-tiled dining
room above the Spice Market, Pandeli
has been an Istanbul institution since
it opened in 1901. Book in advance.
2 Bedestan Café
MAP N3 Cevahir •
Bedesteni 143–151, Kapalı Çarşı
• (0212) 520 22 50 • ¨
The most tasteful café in the Grand
Bazaar (see pp22–3), with snacks and
both Turkish and international coffee.
3 Darüzziyafe
MAP M1 Şifahane Cad 6
•
• (0212) 511 84 14 • ¨¨
Once the soup kitchen of the
Süleymaniye Mosque Complex, this
atmospheric restaurant serves first-
rate Ottoman food. No alcohol.
Dining at Darüzziyafe
Havuzlu Lokantası
4 MAP N3 • Gani Çelebi Sok 3,
Kapalı Çarşı • (0212) 527 33 46 •
Open lunch only, closed Sun • ¨
This is the best of the simple
restaurants in the covered bazaar,
with excellent kebabs and meze
served to the traders as well as
the shoppers. Arrive early as the
restaurant can get crowded.
Refreshments at Şark Kahvesi
5 Şark Kahvesi
MAP N3 Yağlıkçılar Cad 134
•
• (0212) 512 11 44 • ¨
This atmospheric café is a popular
tea and coffee spot.
6 Tarihi Süleymaniyeli
Kurufasulyeci
MAP M2 • Süleymaniye Cad, Prof
Siddik Sami Onar Cad 11 • (0212)
513 62 19 • No credit cards • ¨
This restaurant has been serving up
simple, hearty Ottoman cuisine for
80 years. Its speciality is rice and
beans, slowly cooked.
7 Kahve Dünyası
MAP P4 Nuruosmaniye
•
Cad 79 • (0212) 527 32 82 • ¨
Branch of the popular Turkish
coffeehouse chain, close to the
Grand Bazaar.
8 Hamdi Et Lokantası
MAP P1 Kalçın Sok 17,
•
Eminönü • (0212) 528 03 90 • ¨¨¨
Specialities include erikli kebap
(minced suckling lamb).
9 Surplus
MAP E3 Zindan Han, Ragıp
•
GümüşPala Cad 54 • (0212) 513 37 57
• ¨¨¨
Offering great views over the city and
Galata with an excellent choice of
Ottoman dishes and good wines.
0 Nar Lokanta
MAP P3 Armaggan,
•
Nuruosmaniye Cad 65 • (0212) 522
28 00 • ¨¨
An organic version of the traditional
Turkish lokanta, and great for lunch.
See map on pp68–9
 74 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

The Golden Horn,

Fatih and Fener
The Golden Horn, a fjord-like river inlet that divides
the old and new cities of European Istanbul, is
enjoying a new lease of life. Often overlooked by
visitors, this part of Istanbul has almost as many
minor historic attractions as the Historic Peninsula
itself. Run-down Fener and Balat are now prime
Mosaic, real-estate locations and popular settings for
Church of television programmes. The old-city shoreline has
Pammakaristos
miles of narrow parks and walkways and the new
city shore is home to attractions such as Miniatürk and the Rahmi
Koç Museum. Plans to develop a shopping mall on the site of the old
shipyards at Kasımpaşa are likely to see more change coming soon.

AREA MAP OF THE GOLDEN HORN, FATIH AND FENER

0 metres 750
0 yards 750 Top 10 Sights
see pp75–7
D
R CA
RAHO
Bars, Cafés and
İ

İM
ES

İSL
DD

AM
BE Restaurants see p79
AD
A

Y
CA
Ç C
HA R İ Y E C

DD
ES The Best of the Rest
KA R A AĞA

İ
see p78
BA

EYÜP
FAT İ H S U LTAN

Eyüp
Sütlüce
YA V E D U
RI
L VA

RA Haliç
M İN

M
BU

Köprüsü
T C
I

H
BE
AN

Topçular
Rİ
A

NIŞANCA HASKÖY
AS
S ULT

KÖ

CAD

Ayvansaray
KI

Y C
ŞL

AY V
DES
ÜP
A

AN DO
AD
EY
CA

İ
SA

NA

Hasköy
D

LU
R AY

NM

Demirkapı YO
RE
C AD

V
ÇE
CA D

BAYRAMPAŞA
CA

Ü
ÜS ME
D

PR L
BALAT
R

Şehitlik KÖ
EZ
LA

Çİ Balat OK
AK

Bayrampaşa-
S

AV
Zİ

Maltepe
ĞA

Kasimpașa
BO

Edirnekapı Fener Go
ld
AB

FENER en
DÜ

EZ H
L

EL P
AŞA
EDİRNEKAPI
or

CA
FE

D
VZ

Atatürk
Vatan
İ

D Sİ Köprüsü
PA

CA DE
Ş A

İM
C AD

Topkapı-Ulubatlı EL
CA

DE S
U

UZ
D
OL

V S
L İÇ

VA
TA KARAGÜMRÜK
İ
YA UNKAPANI Haliç
I Y

HA

Fetihkapı
AP

N
AR
GÜ

M RA
AK

CA
LV

ÜŞ G
AN

DD PA I P
BU

Topkapı FATİH D LA
VL

ES
Pazartekke İ CA
IK A P I- M E

RK

A D
MA

C
Ü

MI Emniyet Nİ
Z
CA

AT

LL
ET DE
AT
R

KA
AK RD KÜÇÜKPAZAR
SILIVR

EŞ
Çapa-Şehremini CA LE
DD R
ES CA
FINDIKZADE İ SARAÇHANE D
Aksaray Vezneciler
Fındıkzade
Aksaray
2 km Haseki Yusufpașa
 The Golden Horn, Fatih and Fener ❮❮ 75
1 Panorama
1453
MAP A5 • Topkapı Kültür
Parkı, Topkapı • (0212)
415 14 53 • Open 9am–
6pm daily • Adm charge
• www.panora
mikmuze.com
Situated right by the
Theodosian Walls (see
p77), this history museum
vividly recreates the
moment in 1453 when the walls
were finally breached. Painted on the
inside of a large dome are some
10,000 lifelike figures replaying the
desperate Byzantine defence against
the besieging Ottoman Turks. Take a
seat in the museum's helicopter
simulator for a bird's-eye view of
Istanbul or a historical tour around
the country.
2 Church of
Pammakaristos
(Fethiye Camii)
MAP K3 • Fethiye Kapısı Sok • Open
9am–5pm daily • Adm charge
Built by Emperor John II Comnenus
in the 12th century, this was the
headquarters of the Greek Orthodox
Patriarchate from 1456 to 1568. The
church was later converted into a
mosque, and in 1573 renamed
Fethiye (Victory) to celebrate Murat
III’s conquest of present-day Georgia
and Azerbaijan. The side-chapel is a
museum, containing some of the
finest Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul.
Fatih Mosque
Aqueduct of Valens
3 Aqueduct of Valens
(Bozdoğan Kemeri)
MAP D4 • Atatürk Bulvarı (north
side of Saraçhane Parkı)
West of Süleymaniye are the remains
of the two-storey aqueduct built by
Emperor Valens in 368. Repaired
many times in the intervening years,
it remained in use until the 19th
century, bringing water from the
Belgrade Forest to the centre of
the Great Palace complex.
4 Fatih Mosque (Fatih Camii)
MAP C3–4 Fevzi Paşa Cad
•
• Open 9am–dusk daily
This huge Baroque mosque is the
third building to have occupied this
site. The first was the Church of the
Holy Apostles (burial place of many
Byzantine emperors, including
Constantine). Mehmet the Conqueror
then constructed Istanbul’s first great
imperial mosque here, but it was
destroyed in an earthquake in 1766.
Today’s mosque was built mainly in
the 18th century by Sultan Mustafa III.
The grounds contain the tombs of
Mehmet the Conqueror and his wife
Gülbahar Hatun. On Wednesdays
there is a colourful market in the
surrounding streets.
 76 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Grounds of Yedikule Castle
5 Yedikule Castle
(Yedikule Hisarı)
MAP A6 • Yedikule Meydanı Sok
• Open 9am–6:30pm (summer);
till 4:30pm (winter) • Adm charge
This seven-tower Ottoman fortress is
built onto a section of the Theodosian
Walls. Built within its outer walls,
is the well known Golden Gate, a
triumphal arch, constructed by
Emperor Theodosius I in 390.
Pierre Loti Café
6 Pierre Loti
During his time in Istanbul,
Pierre Loti – the pseudonym and nom
de plume of French sailor, author and
Turkophile Julien Viaud – frequented
a café in Eyüp, and the surrounding
area is now named after him. Arriving
in the city in 1876, Viaud fell in love
with a local woman whose name he
gave to the title of his novel, Aziyade,
which chronicles their difficult rela-
tionship. The area known as Pierre
Loti Hill can be visited via the cable
car beside Eyüp Mosque. The hilltop
Pierre Loti Café (see p79) affords
splendid views of the Golden Horn.
7 Eyüp Sultan Mosque
(Eyüp Sultan Camii)
MAP A4 • Eyüp Meydanı (off Camii
Kebir Cad) • (0212) 564 73 68 • Tomb
open 9:30am–4:30pm • Donations
Istanbul’s holiest mosque was built
by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1458,
over the türbe (burial site) of the
Prophet Mohammed’s friend and
standard-bearer, Eyüp el-Ensari,
whose tomb opposite is one of the
holiest pilgrimage sites in Islam (after
Mecca and Jerusalem). The mosque
courtyard, where the coronations of
Ottoman sultans took place, has
intricately painted İznik tiles, and is
usually filled with worshippers
queuing to pay their respects.
8 Church of St Saviour
in Chora (Kariye Camii)
First a church, then a mosque, now
a museum, the Church of St Saviour
in Chora was rebuilt in the late 11th
century and restored in the early
14th by Theodore Metochites, who
also commissioned the superb
series of mosaics and frescoes that
he hoped would secure him “a
glorious memory among posterity till
the end of the world” (see pp28–9).
9 Rahmi Koç Museum
(Rahmi Koç Müzesi)
MAP A5 • Hasköy Cad 5 • (0212) 369
66 00 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
Tue–Fri, 10am–8pm Sat & Sun; Oct–
Mar: 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun • Adm charge •
www.rmk-museum.org.tr
This eclectic museum is named
after its founder, the industrialist
 The Golden Horn, Fatih and Fener ❮❮ 77
Rahmi Koç. The main part of the
collection – a magnificent assortment
of vintage cars, steam engines,
motorbikes, boats, the imperial
railway carriage of Sultan Abdül Aziz,
and much more besides – is situated
in a 19th-century shipyard building.
Outside are aircraft, boats, restored
shops and a submarine. Across the
road, in a restored Ottoman anchor
foundry with Byzantine
foundations, are
model engines,
trains, cars and
more boats.
There is also an
excellent café (see Vintage car
p79) and the gourmet
Halat Restaurant.
0 Theodosian Walls
(Teodos II Surları)
MAP A5
Built by Emperor Theodosius II in 412–
22, the walls enclosing the old city
from the Sea of Marmara (Yedikule)
to the Golden Horn (Ayvansaray) are
startlingly intact. You can walk sec-
tions, especially at Yedikule (see p65),
although some isolated stretches are
not safe to visit alone. The moat has
been turned into a vegetable garden.
BUILT TO LAST
There were 10 fortified gates and 192
towers in the Theodosian Walls. The
outer wall is 2-m (6-ft) thick and 8.5-m
(28-ft) tall, separated from the 5-m-
(16-ft-) thick, 12-m- (39-ft-) high inner
wall by a 20-m (66-ft) moat (below).
The walls of Byzantium were built to
withstand anything, and did so for
1,000 years. When they were breached
in 1453, the last Byzantine Emperor,
Constantine XI, vanished into history,
last seen fighting on the wall itself.
A DAY ALONG THE GOLDEN HORN
Eyüp
Cemetery
Pierre Loti Café
CABLE CAR
Eyüp Sultan
Mosque Eyüp ferry pier
FE
Theodosian Walls
RR
Y
Palace of the
Porphyrogenitus
Asitane Restaurant St Saviour
in Chora
Panorama
1453 Museum Mihrimah Mosque Haliç
ferry pier
To Yedikule Fortress (2km)
MORNING
Take the Haliç ferry from near the
Galata Bridge to Eyüp, then ride
the cable car up the tree-clad
cemetery hill. Enjoy tea at Pierre
Loti Café (see p79) before heading
down through the cemetery to
queue at the tomb of Eyüp Ensarı
in the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. Stroll
down the Golden Horn to join the
line of the Theodosian Walls.
Turn south and walk alongside
the mighty walls as they march
uphill to the Palace of the
Porphyrogenitus (see p78).
Deviate slightly from the line of
the walls to visit the Byzantine
Church of St Saviour in Chora,
with its superb mosaics and
frescoes. Right next to the church
the Asitane Restaurant (see p79)
serves up delicious Ottoman
Turkish dishes in a leafy garden.
AFTERNOON
Continue south along the line of
the walls, admiring the defences
which kept the city’s enemies at
bay for centuries. The first high-
light en route is the Mihrimah
Mosque, spectacularly situated
on the old city’s highest hill. About
halfway along the length of the
walls is Panorama 1453 (see p75),
with its recreation of the famous
siege of 1453. Continue downhill
to Yedikule Fortress, a massive
Ottoman-era fortress incorpor-
ating part of the Theodosian walls
and the legendary Golden Gate.
Climb up one of its towers for
views of the Sea of Marmara. The
total length of the walk is around
6 km (4 miles); ride the metro
back to the centre from the
Kazlıçeşme stop.
See map on p74
 78 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

The Best of the Rest

1 Church of the
Pantocrator
Synagogue, which is one of the oldest
in Istanbul.
(Molla Zeyrek Camii)
MAP D3 İbadethane Sok, Küçükpazar
•
•

(0212) 532 50 23 Bus 28, 61B, 87

•
7 Church
• Open 20 mins before and after prayer
times • Small tips welcomed
This 12th-century Byzantine church
was converted into a mosque in 1453.
2 Aynalıkavak Palace
(Aynalıkavak Kasrı)
MAP D1 • Aynalikavak Cad, Hasköy
• (0212) 256 95 70 • Bus 47, 54
• Open 9am–5pm daily except Mon
of St Mary of the
Mongols (Kanlı Kilise)
MAP L3 • Tevkii Cafer Mektebi Sok,
Fener • (0212) 521 71 39 • Bus 55T,
99A • Ring on the compound door
for entry
This beautiful church was built by
Maria Palaeologina, a Byzantine
princess who married a Mongol khan,
and later became a nun.

& Thu • Adm charge 8 Palace of the

This 17th-century Ottoman palace
has an interesting exhibition of
Turkish musical instruments.
3 Church of St Stephen
of the Bulgars
(Bulgar Kilisesi)
MAP D2 • Mürsel Paşa Cad 85, Balat
• Bus 55T, 99A • Open 9am–5pm daily
The body of this late 19th-century
Porphyrogenitus
(Tekfur Sarayı)
MAP J1 • Şişhane Cad, Edirnekapı
•Bus 87, 90, 126 • Ferry Haliç to
Ayvansaray • Groups only, by
appointment with Haghia Sophia
Once an annexe of the Blachernae
Palace, it has recently been restored.
9 Eyüp Cemetery
MAP A4 Camii Kebir Sok
•

church was entirely prefabricated in
Vienna, in cast iron.
4 Yavuz Selim Mosque
(Yavuz Selim Camii)
MAP C3 • Yavuz Selim Cad, Fatih
•Bus 90 • Tomb open 9am–5pm
This elegant 16th-century mosque
• Bus 39, 55T, 99A • Ferry Haliç to Eyüp
A steep uphill walk leads past
hundreds of Ottoman-era
gravestones. There’s a superb view
of the Golden Horn.
0 Miniatürk
MAP A4 İmrahor Cad, Sütlüce
•

was built to honour Selim I, who • Bus 47C, 47E • Ferry Haliç to Sütlüce
doubled the size of the Ottoman • Open 9am–7pm daily (9pm in high

Empire. His tomb is in the garden. season) • Adm charge

This intriguing park contains 1:25
5 Church of St George
(Ortodoks Parikhanesi)
scale models of the country's most
impressive structures, from the
MAP L3 • Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad 35, Bosphorus Bridge to Haghia Sophia.
Fener • (0212) 525 54 16 • Bus 55T,
99A • Open 9am–5pm daily
This church is the spiritual centre of
the Orthodox Church community.

6 Balat
MAP K2 • Synagogue: Gevgili

Sok • (0212) 244 19 80 • Bus 55T, 99A

• Open by appointment

Balat was once home to the city’s

Sephardic Jewish community. Don’t
miss out on the 15th-century Ahrida Miniature models at Miniatürk
 The Golden Horn, Fatih and Fener ❮❮ 79

Bars, Cafés and Restaurants

PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
course for one without alcohol, and
including taxes and extra charges.

¨ under ¨ 45 ¨ ¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90

1 Café du Levant, Sütlüce

MAP A4 Hasköy Cad 5
•

• (0212) 369 66 07 • ¨¨
This café is located in the Rahmi
Koç museum (see p76) and serves
stylish Gallic cuisine. Dish at Asitane Restaurant

2 Pierre
Eyüp
Loti Café,
MAP A4 • Gümüşsuyu Karyağdı
Sok 5 • (0212) 497 13 13 • ¨
The interior of this hilltop café
has traditional tiles, tea-making
paraphernalia and exhibits relating
to the novelist Pierre Loti (see p76).
Outside, the shady terrace offers
fine views of the Goldern Horn.
3 Cibalikapı
Fener
Balıkçısı,
MAP E3 • Kadir Has Cad 5
• (0212) 533 28 46 • ¨¨
This traditional tavern serves fresh
fish of the day and a wonderful
selection of hot and cold meze.
Lively and informal with good
6 Asitane Restaurant,
Edirnekapı
MAP J2 • Kariye Oteli, Kariye Camii
Sok 6 • (0212) 635 79 97 • ¨¨
Dishes with delicate Ottoman
flavours are served in a classy
setting, with a summer courtyard.
Reservations are recommended.
7 Ottoman
Restaurant, Fener
MAP E3 • Kadir Has Cad 11, Cibali
• (0212) 631 75 67 • ¨¨
Ottoman beğendi – grilled lamb on
aubergine cooked with cream and
spices – comes with fine views.
8 Siirt Şeref Büryan, Fatih
MAP C4 Itfaye Cad 4 (0212)
• •

views of the Golden Horn. 635 80 85 • ¨¨

An authentic eatery specializing
4 Barba Giritli Balık
Lokantası, Fener
in perde pilaf, a delicious pilau rice
cooked in pastry, and büryan, lamb
MAP E3 • Kadir Has Cad 3 slow-cooked in a clay pit. No alcohol.
• (0212) 533 18 66 • ¨¨
This two-storey restaurant offers
excellent fish and meze dishes
9 Kömür, Fatih
MAP J3 Fevziy Paşa Cad 18
•

that include hamsi (anchovies) • (0212) 631 40 04 • ¨

and ezme (hot pepper dip).
5 Köfteci Arnavut, Balat
MAP L2 Mürselpaşa Cad 139
•
• (0212) 531 66 52 • ¨
Serving up köfte (meatballs) since
1947, this little eatery is the perfect
place to stop for a traditional Turkish
lunch. The doors close when the
köfte run out, usually by mid-
afternoon, so get there early.
Locals flock to this simple café
for delicious and ultra-cheap self-
service dishes of Black Sea food.
0 Zeyrekhane
Restaurant, Fatih
MAP D3 • İbadethane Sok 10, Zeyrek
•(0212) 532 27 78 • Open daily • ¨¨
Ottoman food is served on a terrace
with fine views of the old city.
Booking is advised.
See map on p74
 82 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

Beyoğlu
Set on a steep hill north of the Golden Horn,
facing the old town of Stamboul, is the
“new town” of Beyoğlu, previously known
as Pera – simply, “the other side”. The
area is hardly “new”; there has been a
settlement here for 2,000 years. In the
early Byzantine era, Pera was populated
by Jewish merchants. In the late 13th
century, Genoese merchants were given
Galata as a reward for helping the Byzantines
Gold shield in the
recapture the city from the Crusaders. In
Military Museum Ottoman times, European powers established
embassies and trading centres, and Istanbul’s
commercial centre shifted here from the Grand Bazaar area.
Today, Beyoğlu is the heart of modern European Istanbul, its
streets (such as pedestrianized ĺstiklal Caddesi) lined with
consulates, churches, stylish bars and all the latest shops.

1 Galata Tower
(Galata Kulesi)
MAP F2 • Büyük Hendek Sok • (0212)
293 81 80 • Viewing platform open
9am–7pm daily (dinner show from
8pm–1am) • Adm charge
One of the city’s most distinctive
sights, the 67-m- (220-ft-) high tower
was built in 1348 by the Genoese, the
Byzantine Empire’s greatest trading
partners, as part of their fortification
of Galata. Since then, the tower has
survived several earthquakes, and
been restored many times. A lift
climbs eleven floors to the top where
there is a viewing balcony, nightclub
and restaurant – views of the Golden
Horn and the city are fabulous. In the
evenings, the restaurant hosts a
dinner and cabaret with Turkish folk
dance and belly dancing (see p88).

Galata Tower

Previous pages The Golden Horn as seen from Galata Tower

 Beyoğlu ❮❮ 83

AREA MAP OF BEYOĞLU

ÖM
SOK

K A LY Ğ U
K LA

K U LL
TAV
ER
E SOK
SO

1.2 km 1.5 km
ÇEŞM Taksim

ONCU
İ
HA
ET

ES
K

U
M

D
SO

CAD
Y YA
RA

İİ
KE

Taksim

M IS
M ŞI İ
ABA ES
MC

CA
TA R L SOK DD

SOK
CA
E MİN

AD

R AM

ME
B AY

Sİ
ŞE
K

KA
YÜ

CADDE

KU
HA ADD

AL

LİK
BÜ

ZA
İKL

TL
AY N A L I Ç E Ş

SO
MA ESİ
C

İST

NC

U
C A DDES İ M E

K
LBA

SO
I YO
C A DDESİ

AH

KA
G A L ATA S A R AY

UD

SO

KU
ŞI

ĞI
UD

RM

ŞU
ĞI

U
A
TU

AG
K
SO K

SO
SO
RN

İR
SOK

AÇ
K

AC
IŞI

ER
CU

M
D
UN
IBA

CA ĞI
SOKA SOM

VİL

SO
AM

ŞI
M E Ş R UTİYET

MI SOK

KA
K U M RU LU YOKU ŞU
EL

CİH
YD

ĞI
AS

AN
SA

AMA

GİR
SIR
YE

ŞİŞHANE K
CA

NÜ SO
Nİ

R U Z İ YA
AĞA H

CA
S O AĞ I
ÇA

D
AR

GÜ
RŞI

VY
UM

NE
FÍ K
HA
B E YO Ğ LU
CAD
AD

ŞLİ
RC
RE

KU
K

L C
SO

SO
ÇU

SO
SU

K
OK
TU

TOMTO M K APTAN S O K
KLA

MRULU S
OKU

KU Y
SO K
BOĞ

N
KU
D

KU

Bİ
CA

ELE
İS T İ

Ş
ÇO

Ç
AR Y
AZK

S
İ LYA
Ü

C D
GÜ A
ESE

TERD

RC
KU

Tünel RK LA
M

TÜ AR İ
NC

ES
BA

BO ŞA TK
NA DD
D EF

ST HK
RA

Beyoğlu SA
AD

CA
AN UL
CI

IS U
OK
TOPHANE Y
YO

Şişhane BE
Tİ
KU

CA
GAL İ P D E

ŞU

NE
HE

Tophane
BU DEK
N
YÜ CA

G A L ATA
CAD
K D

AD

TO ELE
O KÇ U M

İ SK
A C

D
DE

CA
PH Sİ C

İ Top 10 Sights
EK ES
AN AD
YÜKSEK KALDI R I M OK
PAŞ

ND D see pp82–5
E

HE
İ

D
ES

CA
İ
US A C A D

EC
D
ZİYA

L
D

TI
D

LÜ Bars, Cafés &

CA

CA

AL
ŞAİR

CAM

Sİ
EY

ER Restaurants see p89

NE
IB

HA

EM
EKAN

AT

İ
UM

BA K ES İstiklal Caddesi
EC
CA D

DD
M

NK
N
S

CA
TA

A LA see p86
LA

R CA
D
M CA

GA

Ş
AL D

KE
K A R A KÖY Shopping
İY

AN
E

M see p87
Karaköy KE

Nightlife
0 metres 200
see p88
0 yards 200 Karaköy

2 Pera Palace Hotel

(Pera Palas Oteli)
Museum was opened in the great
leader’s favourite room in the hotel,
MAP J5 • Meşrutiyet Cad 52 • (0212) No. 101. The exhibit displays many of
337 40 00 • www.perapalace.com his personal items.
Opened in 1895 mainly for travellers
on the Orient Express, the Pera
Palace is Istanbul’s most famous
3 İstiklal Caddesi
MAP J6–L4
hotel. British thriller writer Agatha Packed with shoppers by day,
Christie stayed here often between Beyoğlu’s main street (see p86) is
1924 and 1933 and is said to have also an entertainment hub by night
written Murder on the Orient Express and home to several interesting
in Room 411. Over the years, the sights. It is pedestrianized, but you
hotel has also been frequented by can hop on the tram, which runs the
well-known figures such as Mata street’s entire length. Be aware that
Hari, Leon Trotsky, Greta Garbo and many protests and demonstrations
Atatürk, the “Father of the Turks” take place here. Visitors are advised
(see p33). In 1981, the Atatürk to stay well away from them.
 84 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
4 Mevlevi Monastery
(Mevlevi Tekkesi)
MAP J6 • Galip Dede Cad 15
• (0212) 245 41 41 • Open 9am–4pm
Wed–Mon • Adm charge; book in
advance for dancing
This late 18th-century monastery
belonged to a Sufi sect of Islamic
mystics and is now the Whirling
Dervish Museum (Mevlevihane
Müzesi). Sufi Whirling Dervishes
still dance here on Sundays; look
out for times on a board outside.
The museum contains many
artifacts associated with dervish
rituals, such as begging bowls and
musical instruments, but star of the
show is the beautiful semahane, or
ritual dance hall, upstairs.
5 Military Museum
(Askeri Müze)
MAP B4 • Vali Konağı Cad, Harbiye
• (0212) 233 27 20 • Open 9am–5pm
Wed–Sun (Mehter Band 3pm daily)
• Adm charge
Housed in the former military
academy where Atatürk was
educated, the museum contains
thousands of exhibits telling the
story of warfare from Ottoman times
to World War II. Chain mail, armour,
swords and embroidered tents are
on display; one room is devoted to
Atatürk’s career. A highlight is the
show by the Mehter Band, recreating
the military music of the Janissaries,
the elite Ottoman corps.
6 Taksim Square
(Taksim Meydanı)
MAP L4
The busy hub of modern
Beyoğlu, Taksim Square was
the end of the water supply
line laid down by Mahmut I
in 1732 – his original stone
reservoir still stands at
the square’s western end.
On the same side of the
square is the Monument
of Independence, a
patriotic sculpture
of Atatürk and other
revolutionary heroes Monument of
erected in 1928. Independence
MILITARY MARCHES
The Mehter music performed daily in
the grounds of the Military Museum
has been widely influential. Founded
in the 14th century during the reign
of Osman I, the Ottoman Janissary
bands accompanied the army as it
marched to war, intimidating the
enemy through the sheer volume of
their huge drums, cymbals and zurnas
(traditional reed instruments). The
rousing military style of Mehter music
strongly influenced the compositions
of Beethoven and Mozart, as well as
the da Souza military marches played
by today’s brass bands.
7 Museum of Innocence
(Masümiyet Müzesi)
MAP K6 • Dalgiç Cıkmaz 2, Çukurcuma
• (0212) 252 97 38 • Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun (until 9pm Thu) • Adm
charge • www.masumiyetmuzesi.org
Nobel-prize-winning Turkish author
Orhan Pamuk’s book The Museum
of Innocence is the inspiration for
this hip museum. The thousands
of cigarette butts that the angst-
ridden protagonist of the novel
smoked are on display, along with
other ephemera, all exhibited in a
converted period town house.
8 Çukurcuma
MAP K5
The old quarter of Beyoğlu is today
a centre for second-hand and
antiques trades. Its mansions
and warehouses have been
beautifully restored, and this
is now a great place to browse
for anything from antique
cabinets to modern upholstery
materials or 1960s comics.
9 Church of SS
Peter and Paul
(Sen Piyer Kilisesi)
MAP F3 • Galata Kulesi
Sok 44, Karaköy • (0212)
249 23 85 • Open
10:30am–noon Sun
When their original
church was requisi-
tioned as a mosque in

the early 16th century, the Dominican
brothers of Galata moved to this site,
just below the Galata Tower. The
church was built in the style of a
basilica with four side-altars. It also
has a blue cupola studded with gold
stars over the choir. Mass is said here
in Italian every morning. Ring the bell
by the tiny door (accessed through
the courtyard) to gain admittance.
The Tortoise Trainer (1906), Pera Museum
0 Pera Museum
(Pera Müzesi)
MAP J5 • Meşrutiyet Cad 65 • (0212)
334 99 00 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–
Sat (to 10pm Fri), noon–6pm Sun
• Adm charge
The old Bristol Hotel has been
revived as the home of this museum
and gallery, privately run by the Suna
and İnan Kiraç Foundation set up by
wealthy Turkish industrialists. The
first two floors display the Kiraç
family’s collections of Kutahya tiles
and ceramics and Anatolian weights
and measures. The next floor has an
intriguing collection, most of it by
European artists, detailing life at the
Ottoman imperial court from the
17th century onwards. The top storeys
are given over to temporary shows.
Beyoğlu ❮❮ 85
A DAY IN BEYOĞLU
Military Museum (1.2km)
Taksim
Nevizade Sokak Square
Church of
Galatasaray High School
Saint Anthony
of Padua Galatasaray Baths
İstiklal Caddesi Çukurcuma
Beyoğlu İş Merkezi
Asmalı
Mescit Sokağı Church of
St Mary Draperis
Mevlevi Monastery
Galata Tower Galip Dede Caddesi
MORNING
Walk over the Galata Bridge and
head up to the Galata Tower (see
p82). Take the lift to the top to
walk the perimeter balcony and
enjoy the breathtaking view. Back
at the bottom, refresh yourself at
a traditional tea garden before
taking a leisurely stroll up Galip
Dede Caddesi (see p87) to peer
into the music shops and have a
go on a traditional Turkish
instrument if the fancy takes you.
Continue on towards Tünel (see
p86) and learn about the Whirling
dervishes at the Mevlevi
Monastery. For lunch, try a small
street café on bohemian Asmalı
Mescit Sokağı, or go Gallic on
Fransız Sokağı (French Street).
AFTERNOON
Walk up İstiklal Caddesi (see p86)
browsing the music shops, fashion
stores and Beyoğlu İş Merkezi
(see p87), then visit the Church of
St Mary Draperis and the Church
of Saint Anthony of Padua (see
p86). Get to the Military Museum
in time for the 3pm performance
by the Mehter Band. Head to
Çukurcuma via Taksim Square,
stopping off for some
refreshments if you need to. After
browsing the vast array of antique
shops in Çukurcuma, relax at the
Galatasaray Baths (see p86).
Refreshed, wander past the
Galatasaray High School (see p86)
and cut through to boisterous
Nevizade Sokak (see p89) to
choose a place to wine and dine.
Fish is the speciality here – start
with a few meze then try the
catch of the day, washing it down
with a glass of rakı.
See map on p83
 86 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
İstiklal Caddesi
1 Tünel
MAP J6
in the city. The church was built
in 1911 by Istanbul-born Italian
The 573-m (1,880-ft) Tünel is a
funicular that runs up the steep
slope from Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu.
Built by the French in 1874, it is one
of the world’s oldest metros.
2 Christ Church
MAP J6 Serdar Ekrem
•
Sok 52 • (0212) 251 56 16
The centre of the Anglican
community in Istanbul, this church
was consecrated in 1868 as the
Crimean Memorial Church, using
English money and Maltese stone.
Galatasaray Baths
3 Galatasaray Baths (Tarihi
Galatasaray Hamamı)
MAP K5 • Turnacıbaşı Sok 24 (off
İstiklal Cad) • (0212) 252 42 42
(men) & (0212) 249 43 42 (women)
• Open 7am–10pm (men), 8am–9pm
(women) daily • Adm charge
Wealthy Istanbulites come here to
be sweated, scrubbed and scraped
in one of the finest hamams in
Istanbul, built by Beyazit II in 1481.
Today the baths are fully modernized
but still retain their charm. Men and
women bathe separately.
4 Church of St Anthony
of Padua
MAP J5 • İstiklal Cad 171 • (0212)
244 09 35 • Open 8am–7:30pm daily
(closed 12:30–3pm Sun)
This red-brick Neo-Gothic building is
the largest working Catholic church
architect Giulio Mongeri.
5 Swedish Consulate
MAP J6 İstiklal Cad 497 (0212)
• •
334 06 00 • Open for events only
Built in 1757, this magnificent
embassy was reconstructed
after a fire in 1870.
6 Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim
Tör Müzesi
MAP J5 • İstiklal Cad 285 • (0212) 252
47 00 • Open 10am–6:45pm Mon–Fri,
10am–5:45pm Sat, 1–5:45pm Sun
This smart art gallery was set up by
one of Turkey’s largest banks.
7 Galatasaray High School
(Galatasaray Lisesi)
MAP K5 • İstiklal Cad 159 • (0212)
249 11 00 • Closed to the public
Originally founded by Sultan Beyazıt
II in 1481 to train imperial pages, this
is still Turkey’s premier school.
8 Fish Market
(Balık Pazarı)
MAP J5
A fish, fruit and veg market by day,
by night the adjacent alleys are filled
with cheap and lively restaurants.
9 Flower Arcade
(Çiçek Pasajı)
MAP K4
Housed in the Cité de Pera (1876),
one of several ornate Victorian
arcades along İstiklal, this former
flower market is now an entertaining
(if touristy) tavern quarter.
0 Nostalgic
MAP J5–L4
Tram
The horse-drawn tram service that
rumbled along İstiklal Caddesi in the
19th century was electrified in 1914
(the horses were taken off to war).
The service closed in 1961, but was
revived in 1990. Its red carriages
have become an icon of Beyoğlu.
Buy tickets at either end of the line.
 Beyoğlu ❮❮ 87

Shopping
1 Aznavur Pasajı
MAP K5 İstiklal Cad 108,
•

Galatasaray Meydanı
This Italian-style arcade has been on
İstiklal Caddesi since 1883. You can
buy a range of handmade goods
here, including jewellery, clothes and
souvenirs, on any of the nine floors.
Homer Books
2 Galip Dede Caddesi
MAP J6 Tünel •

7 Homer Books
Musical instruments, such as the MAP K5 Yeni Çarşi Cad
•

traditional oud, handmade violins 12/A, Beyoğlu

and locally made cymbals, are sold
at a string of specialist music shops
in this small street.
3 Çukurcuma
MAP K5
The streets between Cihangir and
One of the best-stocked bookshops
in the city, with English-language
titles on all matters Istanbul and
Turkey. English-speaking staff, too.
8 Mavi Jeans
MAP K5 İstiklal Cad 117
•

Galatasaray form part of the old Jeans made from organic cotton and
quarter and are the best spots for hip Istanbul T-shirts are among the
antique-hunting (see p84). stylish items available from one of
Turkey’s most popular fashion brands.
4 Avrupa Pasajı
MAP J5 Meşrutiyet Cad 16
•

9 Paşabahçe
The 22 shops in this quiet, attractive MAP J5 İstiklal Cad 314
•

old arcade carry a fine selection
of jewellery, ceramics and other
traditional Turkish crafts. There
are also quirkier souvenirs such
as old prints and maps.
The flagship showroom of one of the
world’s largest glass manufacturers
sells affordable modern and
traditional glassware, all made
in Turkey.

5 Beyoğlu İş Merkezi
MAP J5 İstiklal Cad 187
•
0 Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir
MAP K4 İstiklal Cad 83A
•

A haven for bargain-hunters, the The place for lokum (Turkish delight),
three-storey Beyoğlu İş Merkezi this is the Beyoğlu branch of the
is filled with tiny shops selling confectioners who invented the stuff
mainly high-street fashion labels. in 1777. Other treats include akide
Many of the products here are (boiled sweets), helva and baklava.
second-hand or surplus; hence
the rock-bottom prices. A tailor’s
shop in the basement can make
alterations on the same day.

6 Koton
MAP K4 • İstiklal Cad 54

in Demirören AVM
You’ll find both men’s and women’s
fashions at this reasonably priced
Turkish chain store. Designs are
updated regularly and include
party- and daywear. Lokum at Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir

See map on p83

 88 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Nightlife
Nardis Jazz Club
Nardis Jazz Club
1 MAP F3 • Kuledibi Sok 14
• (0212) 244 63 27
There’s live music every night. Find a
table near the stage and choose from
the menu of salads and pasta.
2 Babylon
MAP J6 Şeyhbender Sok 3
•
• (0212) 292 73 68 • www.babylon.
com.tr
Babylon is indisputably the city’s best
venue for live music of every kind.
3 AlMAPJamal
B4 Taşkişla Cad 13,
•
Maçka • (0212) 296 09 69
Stretch out on the chandelier-lit sofa
seating and splash out for quality
belly dancing (including male dancers
in drag) and fine food. Al Jamal
attracts high-rolling Turks rather than
the usual tourists, and offers a more
authentic experience.
4 Indigo
MAP J5 • İstiklal Cad,
Akarsu Sok 1–5 • (0212) 244 85 67
With a resident DJ and live guest acts,
this dimly lit club is geared up for
serious lovers of electronic music.
Indigo nightclub
5 Süheyla
MAP J4 Kalyoncu Kulluk
•
Cad 19 (behind Balık Pazarı)
• (0212) 251 83 47
Süheyla is one of the best places
to hear fasıl – the music of the
meyhanes (see p110), part Turkish
classical, part wild Gypsy. The set
menu includes unlimited rakı.
6 Minimuzikhol
MAP L5 Soğancı Sok 7, off
•
Sıraselviler Cad • (0212) 245 19 96
Small, lively club attracting
discerning clubbers who come for
the techno, dubstep and hip-hop.
Attracts internationally acclaimed
DJs on occasion.
7 Garaj Istanbul
MAP K5 Kaymakam
•
Reşat Bey Sok 11A, off Yeni Çarşı
Cad • (0212) 244 44 99
Tucked away on a Beyoğlu back-
street, this club offers an adventurous
programme of theatre performances,
live bands and other cultural events.
8 360
MAP J5 • İstikal Cad 163
• (0212) 251 10 42
The beautiful people flock to this
rooftop terrace with superb views.
The club offers lounge music with
dinner, and a resident DJ for a
funkier dance sound after midnight.
9 Peyote
MAP J4 Kameriye Sok 4, off
•
Hamalbaşi Cad • (0212) 251 43 98
This popular local venue for
alternative and world-music bands
draws a hip, young crowd with its low
prices and up-and-coming acts.
0 Salon İKSV
MAP J6 Sadi Konuralp
•
Cad 5, off Refik Saydam Cad
• (0212) 334 07 00
An intimate venue for classical, jazz,
world music, as well as dance and
theatre. Traditional dramas
performed here get a modern twist.
 Beyoğlu ❮❮ 89

Bars, Cafés and Restaurants

1 Galata House
MAP F2 Galata Kulesi
•
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
Sok 15 (0212) 245 18 61
•
course for one without alcohol, and
• Closed Mon • ¨¨ including taxes and extra charges.
Galata House is a true original – ¨ under ¨ 45 ¨¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90
a restaurant in a converted British
jail. It serves delicious Russian-
Georgian-Turkish food.
6 Mandabatmaz
MAP J5 Olivia Geçidi,
•

off İstiklal Cad • ¨

Sit on low stools in this hole-in-the-
wall café to drink Istanbul’s very
best, rich and aromatic Turkish
coffee at a bargain price.

7 Leb-i-Derya
MAP J6 Kumbaracı Yokuşu
•

57/6 • (0212) 293 49 89 • ¨¨

Start with a cocktail, then sample
Galata House their speciality, the 40-spiced steak
Mahmudiye. Come early if you want
2 Nevizade
MAP K4
Sokak
• ¨¨
to eat on the tiny roof terrace.
Reservations essential at weekends.
Several little fish restaurants on one
tiny street serve the catch of the day,
washed down with rakı.
8 Zencefil
MAP K4 Kurabiye Sok
•

8–10 • (0212) 243 82 34 • ¨

3 Kafe Ara
MAP J5 Tosbağa Sok 8,
•
Light, tasty vegetarian food in
European style is on offer at
off Yeni Çarşi Cad • (0212) 245 this lovely little café-restaurant
41 05 • ¨ ¨ with a summer garden.
There’s an intellectual, artistic vibe at
this café serving fresh, light food (but
no alcohol). It is decorated with the
9 Sensus
MAP F2 Büyük Hendek Cad
•

work of Turkey’s most famous 5, Galata • (0212) 245 56 57 • ¨¨

photographer, Ara Güler. This trendy basement wine bar
stocks dozens of different Turkish
4 Refik
MAP J6 • Sofyali Sok 6–8
wines and a range of cheeses to go
with them. Packed weekend nights.
• (0212) 243 28 34 • ¨¨
A true meyhane with meze, free-
flowing wine and a bohemian
0 Meze by Lemon Tree
MAP J6 Meşrutiyet Cad
•

clientele, Refik is stuck in the 83/B, Beyoğlu

past and all the better for it. • (0212) 252

83 02 • ¨¨¨
5 Yakup 2
MAP J6 Asmalı Mescit
•
The tradi-
tional Turkish
Sok 35 • (0212) 249 29 25 • ¨ meyhane is given
Yakup 2 has a smoky, alcohol-rich a contemporary Hummus, Meze
atmosphere popular with large makeover in this by Lemon Tree
groups. The food here is excellent, stylish restaurant.
with a wide choice of hot and cold The meze here are superb. Book well
meze, salads and grills. in advance for weekend evenings.
See map on p83
 90 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

The Bosphorus
The Bosphorus is one of the world’s busiest
waterways, part of the only shipping lane from
the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. Just 32-km
(20-miles) long and varying in width from 3.5 km
(about 2.2 miles) to 698 m (2,290 ft), it connects
the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, dividing
Europe from Asia. The straits are governed
by international maritime law, so Turkey has
Sultan’s throne, authority only over vessels flying a Turkish flag.
Naval Museum
Navigation can be difficult, since the mixture of
fresh water from the Black Sea and salt water
from the Sea of Marmara creates complex cross-currents. All of
this is fascinating, but to most of us what really counts is the beauty
of the waterway and the historic buildings that line its shores.
AREA MAP OF THE BOSPHORUS

Anadolu
Top 10 Sights Sarıyer Sarıyer Kavağı
see pp91–3
Büyükdere
Bars, Cafés &
Restaurants see p95
TAR
AB

The Best of the Rest

Bo
YA

N
see p94
YE

I KÖ
sp

YC
A
Orta
ho
D

Tarabya Çeşme
ru
CA D

Beykoz
PA Ş
B Ü Y Ü K DE R E

AB

Beykoz
A HÇ

Yeniköy
Yeniköy
E CAD

Paşabahçe
İstinye İstinye
Paşabahçe
Çubuklu

Emirgan LIC A C
AD Çubuklu
AN
K

O -2
Kanlıca
Kağıthane Kanlıca
Levent
Anadolu
Etiler Hisarı

Bebek Bebek Kandilli

Kandilli
O-1 Arnavutköy
Arnavutköy
O-
2

Şişli
Ortaköy Çengelköy
Osmanbey Çengelköy
Havuzbaşı
Ortaköy Beylerbeyi

Beylerbeyi
Beyoğlu Beşiktaş Kuzguncuk
Kuzguncuk
Çamlıca
Kabataş
O-1

Üsküdar Altunizade 0 kilometres 2

Karaköy
Eminönü 0 miles 1
 The Bosphorus ❮❮ 91

Istanbul Modern gallery

1 Istanbul Modern
(İstanbul Modern)
in 1648, was 40-m- (130-ft-) long
and required 144 bostancıs (oarsmen)
MAP G2 • Meclis-i Mebusan Cad, to row it. Beautifully carved
Karaköy • (0212) 334 73 00 figureheads of ships along with
• Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
a chronological display of the
(to 8pm Thu) • Adm charge Ottoman naval history are housed
• www.istanbulmodern.org
on the floor below.
This cutting-edge gallery’s small
collection of modern Turkish
painting, sculpture and photography
4 Yıldız Palace
(Yıldız Sarayı)
is augmented by touring exhibitions, MAP C4 • Yıldız Cad, Beşiktaş
video and audio installations, and an • (0212) 258 30 80 • Palace open
arthouse cinema (see p44). 9am–6pm Wed–Mon; park open
10am–5:30pm daily (till 4pm in
2 Dolmabahçe Palace
(Dolmabahçe Sarayı)
winter) • Adm charge for palace
Much of this rambling palace
In 1856, Sultan Abdül Mecit removed was built by Sultan Abdül Hamit II
his entire family and government (ruled 1876–1909), a highly skilled
from the Topkapı to this European- carpenter whose former workshop
style palace at Beşiktaş on the now houses the Yıldız Palace
Bosphorus shore (see pp32–3). Museum. The park and its pavilions
are also open to the public. In the
3 Naval Museum
(Deniz Müzesi)
grounds is the Imperial Porcelain
Factory, now mass-producing china
MAP C5 • Hayrettin Paşa İskelesi Sok, where once they made fine porcelain.
Beşiktaş • (0212) 327 43 45 • Tram
Kabataş then 5-min walk • Open
9am–5pm Wed–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat
& Sun (summer) • Adm charge
Ottoman Turkey’s great maritime
history is celebrated in this state-of
the-art museum splendidly situated
right on the banks of the Bosphorus.
Exhibits to look out for, on the main
floor, are lavishly adorned imperial
caïques – high-prowed barges that
were used for ferrying the royal
family along the Bosphorus. The
largest, built for Sultan Mehmet IV Yıldız Palace in Beşiktaş
 92 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Bosphorus Bridge
5 Bosphorus Bridge
(Boğaziçi Köprüsü)
MAP C4
In 1973, to mark the 50th anniversary
of the establishment of the Republic
of Turkey, this soaring creation,
linking Europe and Asia across the
Bosphorus straits, was officially
opened. At 1,560 m (5,120 ft) long,
it is the world’s sixth-longest
suspension bridge. Pedestrians
are not allowed onto the bridge,
so if you want plenty of time to
admire the view, cross at rush hour
when the heavy traffic routinely
becomes gridlocked.
6 Beylerbeyi Palace
(Beylerbeyi Sarayi)
MAP C5 • Çayırbaşı Cad (next to
Bosphorus Bridge) • (0216) 321 93
20 • Bus 15 from Üsküdar • Open
9am–5pm (to 4pm Oct–Apr) Tue,
Wed, Fri–Sun (guided tours only)
• Adm charge
This small, frivolously ornate
powder-puff of a palace was built
in 1860–65 by Sultan Abdül Aziz as
a summer retreat. It was here that
Sultan Abdül Hamit II lived out his
days in captivity after he was deposed
in 1909. You will either be charmed
or overwhelmed by the incredible
detailing of architect Sarkis Balyan’s
Oriental Rococo style. Look for the
inlaid stairs in the Fountain Room,
the hand-decorated doorknobs, the
Bohemian crystal chandeliers, the
Hereke carpets and the walnut-and-
rosewood furniture made by Abdül
Hamit himself (see also p91).
7 Aşiyan Museum
(Aşiyan Müzesi)
MAP U2 • Aşiyan Yokuşu, Bebek
• (0212) 263 69 86 • Open
9am–4:30pm Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat
The poet and utopian philosopher
Tevfik Fikret (1867–1915), founder
of the Edebiyat-i Cedid (New
Literature) movement, built this
wooden mansion, now on the
campus of Boğaziçi University,
in 1906. It recalls the movement
with the personal belongings and
photos of the members.
8 Fortress of Europe
(Rumeli Hisarı)
MAP U2 • Yahya Kemal Cad • (0212)
263 53 05 • Open 9am–4:30pm Thu–
Tue • Adm charge
In 1452, as he prepared for his final
attack on Constantinople, Mehmet II
built this vast fortress at the
narrowest point of the Bosphorus,
opposite the earlier Fortress of Asia
(Anadolu Hisarı) (see p94), to cut the
PRINCELY PARANOIA
Terrified both of plots to seize his
throne and of seaborne attack by
foreign warships on Dolmabahçe
Palace, Sultan Abdül Hamit II (ruled
1876–1909; below) removed himself
from the Dolmabahçe to live at the
much smaller Yıldız Palace (see p91),
the core of which – the State
Apartments (Büyük Mabeyn) – dates
to the reign of Sultan Selim III (ruled
1789–1807). Abdül Hamit built a
sprawling complex of
pavilions and villas in
the palace grounds,
and he supposedly
never spent two
nights in the
same bed. He
was over-
thrown in
April 1909.

flow of supplies reaching the city.
The castle’s three main towers are
surrounded by a huge curtain wall
with 13 bastions. The main tower
later became a prison.
Kamondo
Voyvoda
Fortress of Europe
9 Sakıp Sabancı Museum
(Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi)
MAP U2 • Sakıp Sabancı Cad 42,
Emirgan • (0212) 277 22 00 • Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Wed)
• Adm charge
The summer residence of the
Sabancı family of industrialists
from 1951 to 1999, the Atlı Köşk
(Horse Mansion) is now a museum
set in stunning gardens that overlook
the Bosphorus. The exhibits here
include calligraphy of the Ottoman
era, and paintings by leading 19th-
and 20th-century Turkish artists.
The modern extension is a well-
designed art gallery housing major
touring exhibitions.
0 Sadberk Hanım Museum
(Sadberk Hanım Müzesi)
MAP U1 • Piyasa Cad 27–29,
Büyükdere • (0212) 242 38 13 • Open
10am–5pm Thu–Tue • Adm charge
• www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr
The Sadberk Hanım
Museum boasts a
must-see collection
that includes a
range of Turkish
embroidery as
well as Anatolian
figurines, Assyrian
cuneiform trade
tablets, Hittite coins Anatolian
and gold jewellery. figurine
The Bosphorus ❮❮ 93
A WALK THROUGH KARAKÖY
Kabataş tram stop (1km)
& funicular to Taksim Square
Tophane
tram stop
TRA
M
Galata Kılıç Ali Paşa Nusretiye
Tower Mosque Mosque
SALT-Ottoman Istanbul
Steps Bank Museum Modern
Caddesi Karaköy Güllüoğlu
Karaköy Yeraltı Camii
Square
MORNING
Start your day at the Karaköy tram
stop, then head uphill to the early
20th-century Minerva Han,
adorned with cupid statues on its
tiled façade. Turn left along
Voyvoda Caddesi, named for Vlad
the Impaler, whose decapitated
head (it is said) was displayed
here. If you have time, explore the
art gallery, SALT Galata and the
Ottoman Bank Museum. The
Kamondo Steps lead towards the
Galata Tower. Walk back down
along Karaköy Caddesi and turn
right to visit Yeraltı Camii, an
underground mosque built on the
site of an old Byzantine tower.
AFTERNOON
Continue along Karaköy and turn
left onto Rihtim Caddesi. The
Güllüoğlu baklava shop here is
the finest in Turkey, with pastries
sold by the kilo; the Galata Rihtim
Köftecisi nearby offers a healthier
option for lunch. Follow the road
round between two fine small
mosques, the Nusretiye Mosque
(on the right), built by Kirkor
Balyan in the 1820s, and the Kılıç
Ali Paşa Mosque, built by Sinan in
1580 and named after a famous
admiral in Süleyman I’s navy. Turn
right onto the main road and, just
after the Mimar Sinan University
building, turn right again. Follow
the signs through the old docks
area to Istanbul Modern (see p91),
where you can watch the sunset
with a cocktail in the chic café-
bar overlooking the Bosphorus.
Then take the tram to Kabataş
and the funicular up the hill to
Taksim Square (see p84) for an
evening meal.
See map on p90
 94 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
The Best of the Rest
1 National Palaces
Painting Museum 5 Automobile Museum
(SAV Otomobil Müzesi)
(Milli Saraylar Resim Müzesi)
MAP C5 • Hayrettin Paşa Iskelesi
Sok, Beşiktaş • (0212) 261 42 98
• Bus 25E, 28, 40, 56 • Open
9am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun
Fine art from the 19th and 20th
centuries is displayed in this
museum, in the Crown Princes’
Suite at Dolmabahçe Palace.
2 Çırağan Palace
(Çırağan Sarayı)
MAP C5 • Çırağan Cad 32, Beşiktaş
• (0212) 326 46 46 • Bus 25E, 40
• www.ciragan-palace.com
Sultan Abdül Aziz spent a fortune on
this confection of a palace, built in
1874, before pronouncing it damp
and moving out. The Palace is now
home to a luxury hotel.
3 Ortaköy
MAP C4 Bus 25RE, 40
•
This pretty village beside the
Bosphorus Bridge has many water­
front cafés, restaurants and clubs,
and a weekend craft market.
4 Arnavutköy
MAP U3 Ferry or road
•
Once noted for its strawberries,
the village of Arnavutköy is now
better known for the charming
yalıs (wooden mansions) that line
its pretty waterfront.
Waterfront, Arnavutköy
MAP V3 • Bosna Bulvarı 104,
Çengelköy (Asian side) • (0216) 329
50 30 • Open Fri–Sun • Adm charge
Here you will find Turkey’s largest
collection of antique cars.
6 Küçüksu Palace
(Küçüksu Kasrı)
MAP U3 • Küçüksu Cad, Beykoz
(Asian side) • (0216) 332 33 03 • Bus
15 from Üsküdar • Open 9:30am–4pm
Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun (guided tours only)
• Adm charge
Küçüksu, with two rivers known to
the Ottomans as the “Sweet Waters
of Asia”, was a playground for the
Imperial court. The palace was built as
a hunting lodge in 1857 for Abdül Mecit.
7 Fortress of Asia
(Anadolu Hisarı)
MAP U2 Boat or road to Kanlıca
•
Built by Beyazıt I in 1391, this fortress
on the Asian side is a smaller counter­
part to the Fortress of Europe, added
by Mehmet II in 1452, directly across
the Bosphorus (see p92–3).
8 Emirgan Park
(Emirgan Parkı)
MAP U2 • Emirgan Sahil Yolu • Bus
25E, 40 • Open 7am–10pm daily
This attractive park with botanic
planting is one venue for the Tulip
Festival each April (see p47 & p56).
9 Borusan Contemporary
MAP U2 Perili Köşk Baltalımanı
•
Hısar Cad 5, Rumelihisarı • (0212) 393
52 00 • Bus 22, 40T • Open 10am–8pm
Sat & Sun • Adm charge
A fashionable office block in the
week, Istanbul’s coolest gallery at
weekends, with great Bosphorus
views from the roof terrace.
0 Anadolu Kavağı
MAP V1 Asian side
•
This is the last stop for the Bosphorus
ferry. Climb the hill to Yoros Castle, a
ruined 14th­century Genoese fortress.
 The Bosphorus ❮❮ 95

Bars, Cafés and Restaurants

PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
course for one without alcohol, and
including taxes and extra charges.

¨ under ¨ 45 ¨ ¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90

1 Muzedechanga
MAP U2 Sakıp Sabancı Cad 22,
•

Emirgan • (0212) 323 09 01 • ¨¨¨ Laledan, Beşiktaş

This hip eating place adjoins the Sakıp
Sabancı Museum (see p93). Its cool
Scandanavian style complements the
6 Laledan, Beşiktaş
MAP C5 Çırağan Cad,
•

sophisticated fusion cuisine on offer. Beşiktaş • (0212) 236 73 33 • ¨¨¨

Part of the luxurious Çırağan
2 Feriye Lokantası
MAP C4 Çırağan Cad 40,
•
Palace Hotel Kempinski, the
Laledan restaurant serves great
Ortaköy • (0212) 227 22 16/7 • ¨¨ brunches in a fairy-tale setting.
Picturesquely situated on the
Ortaköy waterfront, the Feriye serves
delicious Ottoman dishes including
7 Supperclub
MAP C4 Muallim Naci Cad
•

charcoal-grilled lamb. Book ahead. 65, Ortaköy • (0212) 261 19 88

This trendy club on the Bosphorus
3 The House Café
MAP C4 Salhane Sok 1,
•
waterfront is an ambitious and
intriguing concept. There’s a cool,
Ortaköy • (0212) 227 26 99 all-white interior, subtle electronic
• Book for brunch • ¨¨
sounds and plenty of lounging
The Ortaköy branch of this popular sofas to chill out on.
café chain serves unusual pizzas
(like pear, Roquefort and honey),
together with seafood, and brunch
8 Poseidon
MAP U3 Çevdet Paşa
•

staples. Its waterfront decking is a Cad 58 • (0212) 287 95 31 • ¨¨

draw during the summer months. Located in trendy Bebek, this
chic seafood restaurant offers
4 Anjelique
MAP C4 Muallim Naci
•
mouthwatering food.

Cad, Salhane Sok 5, Ortaköy

• (0212) 327 28 44/5 • ¨¨
9 Reina
MAP C4 • Muallim Naci Cad 44,

On the first-floor waterfront terrace Ortaköy • (0212) 259 59 19 • Adm

is the upmarket Da Mario Italian
restaurant (summer only), while
the second and third floors serve
international cuisine. The two upper
floors become a nightclub after the
dishes are cleared away.
charge Fri, Sat; free at other times
Dance the night away to European
club sounds at this unashamedly
pretentious nightspot.
0 Suna’nın Yeri
MAP U3 İskele Cad 2/A,
•

5 Kıyı
MAP U2 • Kefelıköy Cad 126,
Tarabya • (0212) 262 00 02
A smart and stylish fish joint in the
posh suburb of Tarabya. The decor
is plain chic and the meze and fish
mains are cooked to perfection.
Kandilli • (0216) 332 32 41 • ¨¨
An unpretentious and well-
established fish joint by the ferry
dock in the Asian suburb of Kandilli.
The food here is a fraction of the
price of most Bosphorus fish
restaurants, and just as good.
See map on p90
 96 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

Asian Istanbul
and Princes’ Islands
Asian Istanbul is just a 20-minute ferry ride across the Bosphorus
or one metro stop through the Bosphorus tunnel. Üsküdar is home
to some venerable Ottoman mosques and the quirky off-shore
Leander’s Tower. To the south, Kadıköy is more lively than
conservative Üsküdar, with plenty of bars. Between these two
suburbs are the Florence Nightingale Museum and German-built
Haydarpaşa Station. The Princes’ Islands are easily reached by
ferry from Kabataş. Places of exile in the Byzantine era, summer
retreats for minority Jewish and Christian groups in the 19th
century, today they are traffic-free and an ideal place to swim,
cycle or just relax at a harbour front restaurant.
AREA MAP OF ASIAN ISTANBUL AND PRINCES’ ISLANDS

Kuzguncuk
O-2
O -1

Ümraniye Üsküdar
See Üsküdar to Üsküdar to
Üsküdar D20
Kadıköy inset, right Kadıköy
Ü S K Ü D AR-

Üsküdar
Üsküdar
Kısıklı Bulgurlu
Harem
HA R E

O -4
MS
O-1

AHİL

Haydarpaşa
YO L U

Ahçıbaşı
DR E

D10
Kadıköy 0 Ataşehir
YÜ

Harem
PA

Kadıköy Selimiye
KSO

2
Göztepe O-
YC
AD
BU

RH
AN
FEL Acıbadem
Fenerbahçe BA EK
CAD
ĞD
RIHT

SA

AT
OP

R.
RAY

C EM C D
IM

I L TO Haydarpaşa
AR D
CA D D E S
PU

Bostancı
I CA

LU C
Z

D
D1

DD

Haydarpaşa
00

ES İ

Bostancı
Kadıköy

Sea of Kadıköy
TU

Marmara
RG
UT
ÖZ

0 metres 1000
AL
B LV

Kınalıada 0 yards 1000

Kınalıada
ÇE Kartal
TIN
EM
EÇ
BL

V
Burgazada Kartal

Büyükada
Top 10 Sights
Burgazada Heybeliada see pp97–9
Heybeliada Bars, Cafés and
Büyükada Restaurants see p101
The Best of the Rest
0 kilometres 3 see p100
0 miles 3
 Asian Istanbul and Princes’ Islands ❮❮ 97
Leander’s Tower
1 Leander’s
(Kız Kulesi)
Tower
MAP W3 • (0216) 342 47 47
• Tower open 12:30–6:30pm
Mon–Fri, 9:15am–6:30pm Sat
& Sun; restaurant open to 1am
According to Greek myth, Leander
drowned while trying to swim the
Dardanelles from his home town
of Abydos on the Asian side to
meet his lover Hero, a priestess
in Sestos on the other shore. He is
commemorated in the English name to Harem • Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri
for this 18th-century tower on an
islet offshore from Üsküdar. Its
Turkish name means “Maiden’s
Tower”, in reference to a legendary
Byzantine princess who was told that contact number
she would die of a snakebite and was In the northwest tower of the Selimiye
locked up on the island for her own
protection, only for a
snake to arrive in a basket
of figs. In its time, the
tower has served as a
quarantine centre and a
customs office; nowadays,
it houses a restaurant. It
had a cameo role in the
1999 James Bond film
The World Is Not Enough. The Lady with
the Lamp, 1891
İskele Mosque
2 (İskele Camii)
MAP X2 • Kurşunlu Medrese Sok
• (0216) 321 93 20 • Ferry Üsküdar
or Marmaray • Open daily (closed at
prayer times)
This beautiful mosque, officially
called the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque,
was a present, built in 1547–8, from
Süleyman I to his favourite daughter,
Mihrimah. Its raised
portico offers fine views
down to the main square.
3 Şemsi
Mosque
Paşa
(Şemsi Paşa Camii)
MAP W2 • Sahil Yolu
• Ferry Üsküdar
• Open daily
Legend has it that birds
will not land on or dirty
this mosque out of
respect for its beauty
and the reputation of its architect. It
is one of Mimar Sinan’s last works
(see p27), built in 1580 for Şemsi
Ahmet Paşa, Grand Vizier to
Süleyman I. Made of white stone,
it is very modest in size and sits
in a picturesque location among
the waterfront fish restaurants.
Florence Nightingale
4 Museum
MAP X5 • Selimiye Kışlası, Çeşme-i-
Kebir Cad • (0216) 556 81 66 • Ferry
• Visitors should fax (0216) 553 10 09
requesting permission to visit, at
least 2 days in advance, giving names,
nationalities, passport details and
Barracks is a moving tribute to the
formidable Englishwoman
Florence Nightingale
(1820–1910), who in 1854
gathered a group of 38
women and set up a
hospital in Istanbul to
nurse thousands of
Turkish and allied soldiers
wounded during the
Crimean War – inventing
modern nursing practice
along the way. The
museum contains her photographs
and medallions, gifts from Sultan
Abdül Mecit, and the lamp from which
she got her nickname, “the Lady of
the Lamp”. The vast barracks in
which the museum is situated
were begun in 1828 by Mahmut II
to replace an earlier military building
constucted by Selim III.
 98 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area
Interior of Haydarpaşa Station
5 Haydarpaşa Station Kınalıada
MAP C6 Haydarpaşa İstasyon 7 MAP V6 Ferry from Kabataş
• •
Cad • (0216) 336 04 75 • Ferry to
Haydarpaşa or Kadıköy
Haydarpaşa Station is the largest
station in Turkey and the most
westerly train stop in Asia. It was
completed in 1908 by German
architects Otto Ritter and Helmuth
Cuno, a gift from the German
government of Kaiser Wilhelm II.
Until recently, the station was the
departure point for travellers
heading further into Anatolia; trains
to Europe depart from Sirkeci Station
(see p62). Now that the Marmaray
tunnel under the Bosphorus has
been completed, the fate of both
stations is undecided.
6 Kadıköy
MAP C6 Frequent ferries
•
from Eminönü
Kadıköy, first settled as long ago
as the Neolithic era, was the site
of the Greek colony of Chalcedon,
founded in 676 BC, nine years
before the establishment of
Byzantion (see p60). However,
Chalcedon proved to be more
vulnerable to invaders than
Byzantion, and it failed to flourish.
Today, Kadıköy is a popular and
attractive shopping area, but it
has maintained its cosy,
neighbourhood feel.
The lively market area
by the docks has fresh
fruit and vegetables
galore and is a good
place to stock up on
provisions. A nostalgic
tram rumbles through
the area down to fashion­
able Moda, in Asian
Istanbul, where you
can enjoy a pleasant
seafront stroll.
Fenerbahçe – one of
Turkey’s top football
clubs – has its grounds,
Şükrü Saraçoğlu
Stadium, close by, so
watch out for traffic
jams on match days.
“Henna Island”, Kınalıada is the
nearest island to the city but the
least visited. It has some reasonable
beaches, and is popular in summer
with Istanbul’s dwindling Armenian
community, which has a pretty
church just above the village.
The main settlement on Kınalıada
8 Burgazada
MAP U6 Ferry from Kabataş
•
Beyond Kınalıada, the attractive little
island of Burgazada is topped by a
badly ruined Byzantine monastery.
Of interest here is the museum of
bohemian Turkish writer Sait Faik,
which occupies a delightful period
house (see p100). Aside from this,
visitors usually content themselves
with a horse and carriage ride, a
splash in the sea, or a fish meal
along the waterfront.
 Asian Istanbul and Princes’ Islands ❮❮ 99
A DAY IN ASIA
From Kabataş
Armenian
chapel
Kalpazankaya
Taking a ride on Heybeliada
9 Heybeliada
MAP V6 Ferry from Kabataş
•
“Saddlebag Island” is so called as
the island comprises two green hills,
with a saddle between them. The
third island in the chain, it’s an ideal
place to hire a bike and cycle around
or ride on a horse-drawn carriage.
The Greek Orthodox Haghia Triada
seminary (see p100) dominates one
hilltop. There are several pay
beaches dotted around the island.
0 Büyükada
MAP V6 Ferry from Kabataş
•
“Big Island” is, unsurprisingly,
the largest of the islands, and the
furthest from Istanbul. Horse and
carriage rides are big here, as is the
steep walk up to the Monastery of St
George (see p100) and the next-door
restaurant – both with fine sea views.
Hire a bike and cycle to the Museum
of the Princes’ Islands (see p100).
THE MARMARAY
The name Marmaray comes from
combining the name of the Sea of
Marmara, with ray, the Turkish word
for “rail”. In 2013, a section of one of
Turkey’s most significant infrastructure
projects went into service when the
tunnel from Sirkeci to Üsküdar opened.
The Marmaray tunnel will be the central
point of a revamped railway network
running all the way from Halkali on the
European side of the city to Gebze on
the Asian side, greatly speeding up
transport around town. The Third
Bosphorus Bridge is set for completion
in 2016.
To Kabataş
(10km)
Kınalıada
FER
FE
Aya
RRY
RY
Nikola
Burgazada
Büyükada
Heybeliada
Halik Köyü
Museum of the
Monastery Princes’ Islands
of St George
MORNING
Take the tram to Kabataş. Make
sure you have your Istanbulkart
or buy a handful of tokens at the
ferry terminal. Pick up a timetable
to keep an eye on ferry times.
Summer weekends are very
crowded aboard, so arrive early
to bag a seat on a Kınalıada-
bound ferry (the journey takes
around 50 minutes). Visit the
small Armenian chapel on a
hill just above Kınalıada’s main
settlement before catching
another ferry south to Burgazada.
Either hire a bike or horse-drawn
carriage (fayton in Turkish) and
head around the coast to
Kalpazankaya (see p101) to
enjoy a fine fish meal at the
well-regarded restaurant here.
It overlooks a small beach
where you can swim in season.
AFTERNOON
Ride the ferry onto Heybeliada
and explore the harbour front
area. Look out for the Aya Nikola
Greek Orthodox Church and have
a Turkish coffee on the seafront
while waiting for a ferry onto
Büyükada. To find out about the
history of these islands, either
hire a bike or fayton and head
for the Museum of the Princes’
Islands (see p100) on Büyükada’s
east coast. The best (albeit stony)
beach is Halik Köyü, on the west
coast. Alternatively explore the
fin de siècle mansions (Trotsky
lived in one from 1929 to 1933)
dotted around the town, or
walk up to the Monastery of St
George (see p100). The sea bus
back to Kabataş takes half an
hour; ferries, over an hour.
See map on p96
 100 ❯❯ Istanbul Area by Area

The Best of the Rest

1 Yeni Valide Mosque
(Yeni Valide Camii) 7 Sait Faik Museum
(Sait Faik Mϋzesi)
MAP X2 • Hakimiyeti Milliye Cad MAP U6 • Cayiri Sok 15, Burgazada
• Ferry Üsküdar or Marmaray • Open 10am–noon & 2–5pm Tue–
• Open daily Sun, 10am–noon Sat
This imposing mosque was built in Turkey’s answer to Mark Twain lived
1710 by Ahmet III for his mother, in this beautifully preserved home.
Gülnuş Emetullah.

Atik Valide Mosque

2 (Atik Valide Camii)
MAP Y3 • Çinili Cami Sok • Bus 12C
from Üsküdar • Open prayer times only
The huge complex of the Old Mosque
of the Sultan’s Mother was completed
in 1583 for Nurbanu Valide Sultan, the
Venetian-born Jewish wife of Selim II.
8 Haghia Triada Monastery
(Aya Triada Manastırı)
MAP V6 • Aya Triada Manastiriş,
Heybeliada • (0216) 351 85 63
The Turkish authorities controversially
closed the seminary here in the 1970s.
Today it still functions as a monastery,
but you need to book to gain entry.

Tiled Mosque
3 (Çinili Camii)
MAP C5 • Çinili Hamam Sok 1, Üsküdar
• Ferry or Marmaray to Üsküdar, then
20-min walk • Open prayer times only
Don’t miss the İznik tiles inside
this mosque, built in 1640.
9 Museum of the Princes’
Islands (Adalar Müzesi)
MAP V6 • Aya Nikola Mevkii,
Büyükada • (0216) 382 64 30 • Open
9am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm charge
The focus here is on period photo-
graphs of the Christian communities
who lived here in the 19th century.

4 British Crimean
War Cemetery
MAP C6 • Off Burhan Felek Cad
• Ferry Harem then 15-min walk
Most of the 6,000 Crimean War
soldiers in this cemetery died of
cholera rather than in battle. The
War Memorial was erected in 1857.
0 Monastery of St George
(Aya Yorgi Manastır)
MAP V6 • Yuca Tepe, Büyükada
• Open 9am–6pm daily
Situated on one of the islands’
two hills, this working Orthodox
monastery dates to the 12th century.

5 Istanbul Toy Museum

(Istanbul Oyuncak Müzesi)
MAP U4 • Ömerpaşa Cad, Dr Zeki
Zeren Sok 17, Göztepe • (0216) 359
45 50/1 • Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–
Sun • Adm charge
Highlights of this collection of toys
and miniatures from around the world
include a French miniature violin from
1817 and a US doll from the 1820s.

6 Kuzguncuk
MAP C5
Wander through the streets of
wooden houses in this old Jewish
quarter, then stop for refreshment
in one of the many eateries on the
main street, İcadiye Caddesi. Monastery of St George
 Asian Istanbul and Princes’ Islands ❮❮ 101
Bars, Cafés and Restaurants
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a typical meal of meze and main
course for one without alcohol, and
including taxes and extra charges.
¨ under ¨ 45 ¨ ¨ ¨ 45–90 ¨¨¨ over ¨ 90
1 Kanaat, Üskudar
MAP X2 Selmanipak Cad 9
•
• (0216) 553 37 91 • ¨
This traditional lokanta is as popular
today as when it opened in 1933. It
offers inexpensive but excellent
Turkish food, as well as deliciously
tempting puddings.
2 Otantik Anadolu
Yemekleri, Kadıköy
MAP C6 • Muvakkithane Cad
62–4 • (0216) 330 71 44 • ¨
Otantik offers no-frills, hearty
Anatolian cuisine with gözleme
(stuffed crepes), fresh chicken,
lamb casseroles and stuffed
cabbage leaves.
3 Kadife
MAP C6
Sokak, Kadıköy
Known to locals simply as Barlar
Sokak (“Bar Street”), this lane is
bursting with bars, cafés and clubs
catering mainly to the young. Listen
to avant-garde jazz or electronica in
Karga (No. 16), taste fine wines in
the garden at Isis (No. 26), or sit back
and chill in Arka Oda (No. 18).
4 Buddha
Kadıköy
Rock Bar,
MAP U5 • Caferağa Mah, Kadife Sok
14 • (0216) 345 87 98 • ¨
This is a popular student bar, offering
a range of cheap drinks, an energetic
crowd, and live rock and blues
alternating with a DJ.
5 Tarihi Moda
İskelesi, Moda
MAP U4 • At the far end of the pier,
off Moda İskele Cad • ¨¨
In an ornate little building on the old
quayside, this café serves decent
food and is a perfect spot for lunch.
Çiya restaurant
6 Çiya, Kadıköy
MAP C6 Caferağa Mah,
•
Guneşlibahçe Sok 44 • (0216) 418 51
15 • ¨¨
The kebabs in this informal gourmet
restaurant are wonderful – the
salads and meze are worth a look,
too. There’s a nice roof terrace.
7 Kalpazankaya,
Burgazada
MAP U6 • Kalpazankaya Mevkii
• (0216) 381 11 11 • ¨¨
A relaxed place on Burgazada’s
west shore with hot and cold meze
and delicious grilled fish.
8 Deniz Yıldızı, Kadıköy
MAP U5 İskele Cad, Eski
•
Kadıköy İskelesi • (0216) 349 95 17
• ¨¨
Watch the boats from this old
restaurant-bar on the seafront. Open
all day serving sandwiches, salads,
beer, coffee and full restaurant menu.
9 Viktor Levi, Kadıköy
MAP C6 Moda Cad, Damacı
•
Sok 4, Kadıköy • (0216) 449 93 29
• ¨¨
Popular wine bar in the heart of
Kadıköy, with a delightful garden.
Offers a wide range of sumptuous
meals for lunch and dinner.
0 Kır Gazinosu, Büyükada
MAP V6 Kır Gazinosu, Aya
•
Yorgi, Yüce Tepe • ¨¨
Next to the Monastery of St George
on Yüce Tepe hill, this casual place
serves excellent starters, savoury
pastries, chips and grills.
See map on p96
Streetsmart

Colourful buildings lining

Yerebatan Caddesi in Sultanahmet
Getting To and
Around Istanbul 104
Practical Information 106
Places to Stay 112
General Index 118
Acknowledgments 125
Phrase Book 126
 104 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Getting To and Around Istanbul
Arriving by Air
The city of Istanbul
has two main airports,
Atatürk International
and Sabiha Gökçen, with
a third major international
airport set to open in 2018.
Flight times from London
are 3.5 hours and from
New York 9 hours.
Atatürk International,
Istanbul’s principal
airport, is located on the
European side of the city,
24 km (15 miles) west of
the centre. Havataş
shuttle buses run every
half an hour between 4am
and 1am to Aksaray (for
Sultanahmet and the Old
City), then on to Taksim
(for Galata and Beyoğlu);
journey time is between
40 minutes and 1 hour.
The M1 metro also runs
to the city centre; change
at Zeytinburnu to the T1
tram for Sultanahmet/
Old City. For Galata or
Beyoğlu, take the M1
metro to Yenikapı, then
the M2 metro to either
Şişhane or Taksim. Both
the metro and the tram
service run approximately
6am–midnight daily, taking
around the same time as
the shuttle bus. Taking a
taxi from the airport
should cost around ¨70.
The smaller Sabiha
Gökçen Airport is used
mainly by European
budget carriers, such as
easyJet, and is located on
the Asian side of Istanbul,
some 50 km (30 miles)
from the city centre.
Havataş shuttle buses
run to Taksim Square
half-hourly between
4am and 1am, taking a
minimum of 1 hour. A taxi
will cost around ¨ 9 0 .
Arriving by Coach
Turkish-operated coaches
arrive from several
European cities, including
Berlin, Prague, Vienna
and Sofia. For services
from London contact
Eurolines. Istanbul’s main
coach station is Esenler,
10 km (6 miles) northwest
of the city centre, where
services from Europe
terminate. Esenler is also
the main terminus for
domestic services, though
some stop at Harem, on
the Asian shore. Many
bus companies offer
courtesy buses into the
city centre; the alternative
is the M1 metro.
Arriving by Rail
Owing to huge transport
infrastructure projects in
Istanbul, reaching the city
by train from Europe is
difficult. At the time of
writing the only train from
Europe, the Bosphorus
Express from Bucharest,
was terminating at the
Bulgarian–Turkish border,
with onward travel by bus.
Man in Seat 61 is a useful
website for booking train
seats across Europe.
Arrival by Sea
Istanbul is a major cruise
ship destination, with
ships docking at the
confluence of the Golden
Horn and Bosphorus right
in the heart of the city.
Travelling by
Metro and Tram
The cheapest and most
convenient way to travel
around the city is by a
combination of metro
and tram, especially if you
use an Istanbulkart. Both
systems operate between
6am and midnight, but
can be very crowded
during peak periods.
The M1 line links the
Old City with Atatürk
Airport, and the M2 line
the Old City with Galata,
Beyöğlu and Taksim via a
bridge across the Golden
Horn. The Marmaray line,
opened in 2013, runs west
from Sirkeci station to
Kazlıçesme, on the line of
the Theodosian Walls, and
east under the Bosphorus
Strait to Üsküdar in Asia.
The tram route of most
interest to visitors is the
T1 between Bağcılar and
Kabataş, which links the
Old City and Sultanahmet
with the shopping, gallery
and nightlife districts
across the Golden Horn
in Galata and Beyoğlu.
The T1 tram links in
with the metro system at
Zeytinburnu (for Atatürk
Airport), Karaköy (for
the Tünel funicular) and
Kabataş (for the funicular
to Taksim Square and
ferry terminal for the
Princes’ Islands). A period
tram runs up and down
Istiklal Caddesi between
Tünel and Taksim Square.
Travelling by
Funicular
The Tünel, connecting
Karaköy to İstiklal Caddesi,
the city’s main shopping
and entertainment street,
is one of the world’s
oldest undergrounds (see
p86). A second funicular
runs from the Bosphorus
shore at Kabataş to
Taksim Square.

Travelling by Bus
Municipal buses are often
crowded, the drivers
usually only speak Turkish
and the schedules are
unreliable. Sometimes,
however, they are the
only public transport
available – running up
the European or Asian
shores of the Bosphorus,
for example – so some
visitors may want to make
the effort to use them.
Travelling by Ferry
Travelling around
Istanbul’s waterways by
ferry is a pleasure. The
main dock at Eminönü
has departures to the
Asian suburbs of Üsküdar
and Kadıköy, and up the
Golden Horn. It is also
the departure point for
Bosphorus cruise
excursions (see pp34–5).
Ferries for Asia also
depart from Karaköy
and those for the Princes’
Islands from Kabataş.
Ferries are run by City
Lines (Şehir Hatları),
while faster sea buses
to the Princes’ Islands
are operated by Istanbul
Sea Buses (İDO).
Tickets
Buy tokens for buses, the
metro, tram and ferries
from kiosks near stations
and stops. Alternatively
the Istanbulkart travel
smart card can be used
on all of these and saves
around 25 per cent per
journey. As you enter the
form of transport, touch
the reader with your card;
recharge the card when
necessary. The card
deposit is ¨ 6; load credit
from kiosks, stations or
vending machines.
Getting To and Around Istanbul ❮❮ 105
Travelling by Taxi
A licensed taxi (taksi)
is yellow in colour and
shows a light on top
when it is available for
hire. Before you set off,
always check that the
meter is switched on.
Better still, agree the fare
with your driver before
you get in. Day and night
rides are charged at the
same rate. Beware of
drivers taking the long
way around in order to
short-change you.
Dolmuş
These shared minibuses
run along set routes, and
only depart when they are
full. They will pick up or
set down where you want
along the route. Ranks
have a blue sign with
a black D on a white
background. Several
useful dolmuş services
leave from around Taksim
Square. They are a cheap
form of transport, but can
make for a slow journey.
By Car
Driving in the city centre
is a nightmare. The larger
business hotels have
parking, most in the Old
City do not. Hire a car and
driver to see sights that
are further apart.
On Foot
Walking is the most
rewarding way to see
most parts of the city,
especially the historic
core bounded by the
Theodosian Walls.
Unfortunately streets are
often unmarked, so it’s
easy to wander off track.
Pavements are often
rough and uneven, and
kerbs high, so wear
decent shoes or boots.
Traffic only stops at light-
controlled crossings.
Tours
There are plenty of tours
on offer, by bus, car or on
foot (see p111). Trips to
sights such as Gallipoli
and Troy, Edirne or Bursa
are also available.
DIRECTORY
AIRPORTS
Atatürk International
Yeşilköy (European side)
§ (0212) 444 98 28
∑ ataturkairport.com
COACHES
Esenler Bus Terminal
§ (0212) 658 05 05
Eurolines
§ UK: 08717 818181
∑ eurolines.com
Harem Bus Terminal
§ (0216) 333 37 63
TRAINS
Man in Seat 61
∑ maninseat61.com
METRO AND TRAM
Istanbul Ulaşım
§ (0212) 444 00 88
∑ istanbul-ulasim.com.tr
Istanbulkart
∑ istanbulkart.iett.
gov.tr
BUSES
Havataş
§ (0212) 444 26 56
∑ havatas.com
Municipal buses
§ (0212) 372 22 22
∑ iett.gov.tr
FERRIES
City Lines
§ (0212) 444 18 51
∑ sehirhatlari.com.tr
Istanbul Sea Buses
§ 0850 222 4436
∑ ido.com.tr
 106 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Practical Information
Passports and Visas Travel Insurance the Alman Hastanesi
(German Hospital),
To enter Turkey, you need You are strongly advised Cerrahpaşa Hastanesi
a full passport valid for at to take out travel and Sen Jorj Avustrya
least six months. Most insurance with full Hastanesi (St George’s
people requiring a visa medical cover, including Austrian Hospital).
must apply in advance repatriation by air. If Turkish dentists are
online. The cost varies buying a Europe-only well-trained and many
depending on your nation- policy, check that it will have the latest equipment.
ality: UK ($20), Canada also cover you on the Fees are relatively low
($60), Australia ($60), USA Asian side of Istanbul. and some visitors come to
($20) and Ireland ($20). Istanbul just to have their
Payment can be made by Health teeth fixed. Prodent-Can
debit or credit card. Ergene and Reha Sezgin
A multiple-entry tourist Before travelling to are recommended clinics.
visa valid for up to 90 days Istanbul, make sure your
in 180 days will be issued. basic inoculations are Personal Security
South Africans or people up-to-date, and check
with British National Over- with your doctor about Istanbul has a fairly low
seas passports must apply Hepatitis A and Hepatitis crime rate, but take the
for a visa at a consulate B vaccinations. normal precautions
before travelling. New Rabies is prevalent in against pickpockets,
Zealand nationals receive Turkey, so be wary of the particularly on the
a free tourist visa on city’s numerous stray crowded public transport
arrival that is valid for up dogs and cats. Mosquitoes system and busy shopping
to three months. Entry can be a problem in areas. Districts with bad
requirements can change summer, so take some reputations include
so check wıth the Turkish repellent. While Istanbul Tarlabaşı, near Taksim
Ministry of Foreign Affairs tap water is considered Square, where prostitution
for the latest information. safe, it is advisable to (straight, gay and
  drink bottled water. If you transgender) and petty
Customs Regulations are vulnerable to stomach theft are a problem, and
and Immigration upsets, foods to avoid the line of the Theodosian
include salad and seafood Walls, where vagrants
Visitors may bring 50 from street stalls. See the and alcoholics may be a
cigars, 600 cigarettes, Directory opposite for nuisance towards dusk.
200 g tobacco, 1 litre emergency services Lone male visitors should
spirits, 2 litres wine, 2 kg telephone numbers. beware of confidence
tea, coffee and chocolate, There are numerous tricksters in nightclubs,
600 ml perfume and pharmacies (eczane) especially those around
unlimited currency. across the city. Duty Taksim Square, who trick
Penalties for possessing (nobetçi) chemists, often the unwary into buying
narcotics are very harsh. stationed near hospitals, hugely expensive drinks
  are open all night. The for attractive females. The
Travel Safety Advice state hospital system is spiking of drinks is not
fine in an emergency, but unknown, either.
Visitors can get up-to- private hospitals are more Terrorism is a potential
date safety information efficient, and are less threat, with al-Qaeda
from the UK Foreign expensive than in many hitting the British
and Commonwealth parts of the world. Well- Consulate, HSBC bank
Office, the State regarded hospitals and synagogues in 2003.
Department in the US conveniently located for Protests often escalate
and the Department of most visitors include the quickly into violence, as
Foreign Affairs and Amerikan Hastanesi with the Gezi Park (part of
Trade in Australia. (American Hospital), Taksim Square) riots of

2013. Marches often take
place along İstiklal
Caddesi and up to Taksim
Square and are tightly
controlled by riot police
with batons, shields,
helmets and teargas.
Since the civil war started
in 2011, Syrian refugees
have become a common
sight on Istanbul’s streets.
Do not joke, make light
of or criticize Turkey, its
founding father, Atatürk,
or the country’s flag, as
the vast majority of Turks
are very nationalistic and
will take offence. Defacing
a banknote (invariably
adorned with an image of
Atatürk) or the flag is a
criminal offence.
Turkey has become
more conservative in
recent years, with head-
scarved women a common
sight, and restrictions on
visiting mosques for non-
Muslims more obvious.
Couples should beware
of displaying affection in
public, and never make
jokes about Islam.
Many younger Turkish
women, particularly
Istanbulites, dress much
as they would anywhere
else in Europe, and tight
jeans, singlets and fairly
short skirts are common-
place. Foreign women out
for the night in areas like
Beyoğlu often do likewise.
However, such dress is
not appropriate in many
parts of the city, or when
visiting mosques. Women
travelling alone should be
extra-careful; dress
conservatively, don’t make
eye contact with males
and avoid backstreets,
especially at night. If you
are being harassed, make
a scene and someone
should come to your aid.
The Turkish police are
usually polite and helpful.
Practical Information ❮❮ 107
In tourist areas, report
losses, theft or other prob-
lems to the Tourist Police
– translators are generally
present 9am–5pm Monday
to Friday. If you get into
trouble, most countries
have consulates in
Istanbul – they will assist
with missing documents,
arrange repatriation, or
help you to find legal
representation if needed.
It is illegal to be out in
public without photo ID;
DIRECTORY
PASSPORTS AND VISAS
Online visas
∑ evisa.gov.tr
Turkish Ministry of
Foreign Affairs
∑ mfa.gov.tr
EMBASSIES AND
CONSULATES
Australia
Asker Ocağı Cad 15,
Elmadağ, Şişli
§ (0212) 243 13 33
UK
MAP J5 • Meşrutiyet Cad
34, Tepebaşı, Beyoğlu
§ (0212) 334 64 00
US
İstinye Mahallesi, Kaplıcalar
Mevkii No. 2, İstinye
§ (0212) 335 90 00
TRAVEL SAFETY
ADVICE
Australia
Department of Foreign
Affairs and Trade
∑ dfat.gov.au/
∑ smartraveller.gov.au/
UK
Foreign and
Commonwealth Office
∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-
advice
US
US Department of State
∑ travel.state.gov/
EMERGENCY SERVICES
Police
§ 155
Ambulance and
General Emergencies
§ 112
Fire
§ 110
photocopy the relevant
page of your passport
and carry that with you
for security.
Istanbul is in a major
earthquake zone and the
last serious quake to take
place was in 1999. As a
result, building rules and
regulations were tight-
ened up, but still today
many of the city’s
structures – especially
older ones – are not
adequately quakeproofed.
HEALTH SERVICES
Alman Hastanesi
MAP L5 • Sıraselviler
Cad 119, Taksim
§ (0212) 293 21 50
Amerikan Hastanesi
Güzelbahçe Sok 20,
Nişantaşı
§ (0212) 444 37 77
∑ amerikanhastanesi.org
Cerrahpaşa Hastanesi
Koca Mustafapaşa Cad,
Cerrahpaşa
§ (0212) 414 30 00
∑ ctf.edu.tr
MAP F3 • Bereketzade
Medresesi Sok 7, Galata
§ (0212) 292 62 22
∑ sjh.com.tr
Prodent-Can Ergene
Valikonağı Cad 109/5,
Nişantaşı
§ (0212) 230 46 35
∑ prodent.com.tr
Reha Sezgin
Halaskargazi Cad 48/9,
Harbiye
§ (0212) 240 33 22
PERSONAL SECURITY
Tourist Police
MAP R4 • Yerebatan
Cad 6, Sultanahmet
§ (0212) 527 45 03
∑ iem.gov.tr
UK Foreign Office
∑ fco.gov.uk (UK)
 108 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Disabled Travellers
On the whole, the city is
difficult to navigate in a
wheelchair. Older, historic
buildings tend to be totally
or partially inaccessible
and many mosques refuse
access to wheelchairs.
But the biggest problem
is Istanbul itself – with its
seven, often steep, hills
and cobbled roads and
pavements. The Turkish
Culture and Tourism
Office (UK) in London
has a helpful website
for disabled travellers.
Gay Travellers
Homosexuality is not
illegal in Turkey, but it is
frowned upon by Islam.
There is a thriving gay
scene in Istanbul, but
locals are not always far
out of the closet and there
is significant homophobia.
There are many safe
venues in Beyoğlu. Some
useful websites are listed
in the Directory opposite.
Tourist Information
There are several official
tourist offices and kiosks
around the city. The one in
arrivals in Atatürk Airport
is open 24 hours daily; the
most convenient for the
majority of visitors is in
Sultanahmet, near the
Hippodrome, open 9am–
5pm daily. Staff speak
English and have useful
free city maps.
For general tourist
information about the city,
the Turkish Ministry of
Tourism and Culture has
useful websites, and
Turkey Travel Planner is
a good independent one.
For booking tickets to
shows and events, Biletix
is indispensable.   and MasterCard.
Currency
and Banking
The Turkish lira (¨) comes
in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and
200 lira notes and 1 lira
coins. One lira is split into
100 kuruş, which come in
1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 kuruş
coins. You are allowed to
bring unlimited foreign
currency and up to
US$5,000 worth of lira
into Turkey, but you’ll get
a better exchange rate in
Turkey. Note that the ¨
sign, introduced in 2012,
is widely used, but many
places still use the old
TL (Türk Lirası) shorthand,
e.g 5 TL.
Make sure that you
have plenty of small-
denomination notes and
coins with you at all times
for when you need to
make small purchases.
Most souvenir shops are
happy to accept lira, US
dollars, euros or pounds
sterling. Your change will
come in lira.
There are plenty of banks,
in the city but changing
money can be slow. The
many 24-hour cash dis-
pensers (ATMs) accept all
Maestro and Cirrus bank
cards with a PIN, and will
also give a cash advance
on credit cards. Most
ATMs are programmed
with several languages;
some even pay out in a
range of currencies.
If you have cash to
exchange, the best place
to go is an exchange office
(döviz). These kiosks are
found in all the main
tourist areas. They are
faster and usually offer a
better rate of exchange
than the banks. Most
outlets dealing with
tourists will accept major
credit cards such as Visa
Telephone
and Internet
Turkey’s mobile phone
system is compatible with
UK phones, but US cell
phones may not work. To
save on charges, buy a
local pay-as-you-go SIM
card or an international
card. The few remaining
public phones accept
credit cards or a phone
card bought from a post
office. Hotel phones are
usually expensive.
The international
dialling code for Turkey
is +90. Istanbul has two
area codes: 0212 for the
European side and 0216
for the Asian side. To
call abroad from Istanbul,
dial 00 followed by the
country code (61 for
Australia, 1 for the United
States and 44 for the UK).
Virtually all Istanbul’s
hotels have free Wi-Fi,
though some upmarket
international chains do
charge for the service.
Most have a fixed
terminal as well. Many
of the city’s cafés now
have free Wi–Fi.
Postal Services
Post offices and boxes
can be recognized by
a yellow and blue PTT
(Post Telegraf Telefon)
logo. Stamps can only be
bought at post offices and
PTT kiosks. The most
useful post offices for
visitors are the Old City
Post Office and the
Beyoğlu Post Office, both
open 8.30am–7pm daily.
The post can be slow, so if
you wish to send purchases
home, use a courier. All
the main courier firms
have offices in Istanbul
and there are also some
reliable domestic ones. 
 Practical Information ❮❮ 109

TV, Radio and on Saturday mornings –

Newspapers DIRECTORY
all have 24-hour cash
dispensers. Post offices DISABLED
TVs are standard in the open 9am–5pm Monday TRAVELLERS
majority of Istanbul to Saturday. Shops are Turkish Culture and
hotels. Most show BBC open 10am–6pm Monday Tourism Office (UK)
World, CNN and other to Saturday, with many ∑ gototurkey.co.uk
international news tourist shops and larger
channels, and many shops open longer. Malls GAY TRAVELLERS
∑ gaysofturkey.com
also show entertainment open 10am–10pm.
∑ hipsultan.com
channels such as BBC Museum and sight
∑ istanbulgay.com
Entertainment, National opening times vary
Geographic and the markedly, though TOURIST
Discovery Channel. 9am–5pm is a useful INFORMATION
There are three English- guideline. The majority Biletix
language Turkish daily of the more important ∑ biletix.com
newspapers, the Hürriyet museums and attractions
Tourist Office
Daily News, Today’s Zaman such as Haghia Sophia
MAP Q4 • Divanyolu 3,
and Daily Sabah. Magazine- and Topkapı Place are Sultanahmet
wise, The Guide Istanbul open by an hour or two § (0212) 518 87 54
(bimonthly) and Time Out longer between April
(monthly) have entertain- and October than they Turkey Travel Planner
∑ turkeytravelplanner.
ment and dining listings. are between November
com
Cornucopia covers the and March.
arts, history and general There are five official Turkish Ministry of
culture of Turkey. one-day state holidays; Tourism and Culture
∑ gototurkey.co.uk
  1 January is New Year’s
∑ kultur.gov.tr
Language Day, 23 April is National
and Religion Sovereignty & Children’s TELEPHONE
Day, 19 May is Youth & AND INTERNET
In tourist areas, there will Sports Day, 30 August ∑ travelsim.co.uk
always be someone who is Victory Day and 29
speaks some English. October is Republic Day. POSTAL SERVICES
Written Turkish uses the There are two principal Aras
Western alphabet, but religious festivals: Şeker § 444 2552
there are some differences Bayramı, which follows ∑ araskargo.com.tr
in pronunciation. C is the holy month of Beyoğlu Post Office
pronounced “j” as in Ramazan (Ramadan), and MAP K5 • Yeni Çarşı
“jam”, ç is “ch” as in Kurban Bayramı (see p57). Cad, Beyoğlu
“church” and ş is “sh” as During Ramazan, no § (0212) 251 51 50
in “shut”. İ is used as in water or food is allowed Old City Post Office
“igloo”; the dotless “i” (ı) during daylight hours. MAP Q2 • Büyük
is more like “uh”. The ğ is Nothing actually shuts Postane Cad, Sirkeci
silent, but is used to draw down, but daily life is § (0212) 526 12 00
out the preceding vowel. disrupted. The dates of
PTT
Ninety-nine per cent of Ramazan, Şeker Bayramı ∑ ptt.gov.tr
Turks are Muslim, but and Kurban Bayramı
the degree to which they move backwards by 11 Yurtiçi
§ 444 9999
practise their religion days each year.
∑ yurticikargo.com
varies greatly.  
Electrical NEWSPAPERS
Opening Hours and Appliances AND MAGAZINES
Public Holidays ∑ hurriyetdailynews.com
The current is 220V, and ∑ todayszaman.com
Banks in main tourist plugs have two round ∑ dailysabah.com
areas open 8:30am–5pm pins. You’ll need a ∑ theguideistanbul.com
Monday to Friday; a few transformer to use 110V ∑ timeoutistanbul.com
larger branches also open appliances from the US.
 110 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Weather known as the Spice Bazaar in all but the smartest

is equally venerable and is places, but don’t expect
Summers are sunny and excellent for spices, dried highchairs.
dry, with the odd thunder­ fruit and nuts and much Lokantas are day­to­day
storm. It can reach 40º C more. The Arasta Bazaar eateries. They range from
(104º F), but 31–33º C is good for authentic self­service cafeterias
(88–91º F) is normal at souvenirs such as İznik to full­service brasserie­
noon in August, dropping pottery and peștemal style places, invariably
to around 23º C (74º F) (hamam towels). Haggling serving stew­type dishes
at night. Winter can be in places like this is part of from steam trays, though
cool and damp, with daily life. Take your time, they often have grills as
some snow and January shop around and don’t well. Prices are affordable;
temperatures of around feel pressurized. When few serve alcohol. A
8º C (46º F) at midday you are ready, offer half the restoran is upmarket; if
and 2º C (36º F) overnight. price and take it from there. the word balık is included,
In April, May, June and For European­style the place specializes
September/October, the clothes shopping, head in fish and seafood. A
weather is ideal for across the Golden Horn to kebapcı serves kebabs
exploring on foot. İstiklal Caddesi, or to the and lahmacun, a thin,
posh suburbs of Nisantaşı round flatbread with a
Toilets and Teşvikiye. The best savoury mince topping;
and/or most convenient a dönerci, döner kebabs
There are still relatively of the city’s 90 malls are and other roast meats.
few modern public Kanyon, the Zorlu Centre, A pideci is the Turkish
conveniences (bay for City’s Mall or Demirören. equivalent of a pizzeria,
men, bayan for women) in Don’t bargain for goods though the Turkish pide
Istanbul. Some have in upmarket shops or does not have a tomato
squat toilets only. Carry shopping malls. sauce layer; it is usually
tissues, as there may not VAT (KDV in Turkish) is cheese or meat only.
always be paper. Most included in fixed­price For a drink and live
mosques have squat goods. There are various music with a meal,
toilets attached. There is rates, but the most usually an array of meze
usually a charge of around common is 18 per cent. (Turkish tapas) followed
¨1 to use these facilities. Prices may rise if you ask by grilled fish, try a
Most sights, cafés and for a VAT invoice – a trader meyhane. To try a hookah
restaurants have who writes an invoice will pipe, head for a nargile
Western­style toilets. have to pay tax. To reclaim café, where you’ll be plied
tax on departure, shop at with sweet tea while you
Time Difference places displaying a tax­ suck on a waterpipe.
free sign and get a Global Simple kahvehanes
Turkey is 2 hours ahead of Refund Cheque to reclaim (tearooms) are generally
Greenwich Mean Time. the tax (in cash) at the a male preserve, where
airport. You may be asked men spend their time
Shopping to produce the goods, so playing games of
keep them with you. backgammon. Some
Traditionally, Istanbulites   cafés have a separate
shop in bazaars. Most Dining section for women and
famous is the historic families (aile salonu)
Grand Bazaar, a covered The very finest of Turkey’s at the back, as do
“mall” of over 4,000 shops renowned cuisine can be some restaurants.
dating back several found in the metropolis of Turks usually eat
hundred years. It’s full of Istanbul. Eating places in desserts separately to
everything from fine Sultanahmet are not main meals; a muhallebici
quality Turkish carpets always the greatest – try sells milk puddings;
and jewellery to fake to head further afield for pastanes sell pastries,
designer goods and a more authentic Istanbul such as baklava. Look
touristy souvenirs. The culinary experience. out for patisseries
Egyptian Bazaar, also Children are welcomed where you can sit down

and sample baklava or
cake with a shot of
Turkish coffee.
Bars in Sultanahmet
are very touristy; head
across the Golden Horn to
Galata and Beyoğlu for
lively drinking joints
ranging from studenty
dives to chic rooftop bars.
Few restaurants in
Istanbul cater specifically
to vegetarians, though
there are few places in
Beyoğlu. Good options
for vegetarians are pide,
Turkish pizzas dripping
with a Cheddar-cheese-
type topping, or goat’s
cheese with parsley. The
stews and soups sold at
lokantas are often virtually
vegetarian, but usually
have a meat stock. There
are dozens of veggie meze
in decent meyhanes.
If a service charge (servis
dahil) isn’t added to your
bill, leave 10 per cent.
Istanbul has become
fashionable for culinary
courses and food tours;
see below for details.
 
Trips and Tours
Most travel agents and
tour operators in Turkey
will be happy to provide
a private guide in one
of half a dozen major
languages. The guide
should be accredited by
the Ministry of Tourism.
Some licensed guides
(check the ID around their
necks) tout for business
outside major sights.
Many agencies offer
tours by bus, boat, on foot
or a mix of all three, with
full- and half-day options.
Reliable companies for
cultural tours include
offer offbeat culinary
tours, Cooking Alaturka
Turkish cookery classes.
Big Bus City Tours do
Practical Information ❮❮ 111
open-topped double-
decker hop-on, hop-off
tours of the city.
Where to stay
On the whole, the
standard of accommo-
dation is high, and most
places are good value.
Sultanahmet and some
areas adjoining it are
Istanbul tourist heartland,
and there are several
hundred hotels here.
Options range from
cheap-and-cheerful
hostels to luxury hotels,
boutique hotels fashioned
from period Ottoman
town houses and not
especially characterful
hotels that are
comfortable and well run.
Across the Golden Horn
in Galata and Beyoğlu
are many more choices,
ranging from hip hostels
to late 19th-century
European-style hotels
such as the famed Pera
Palace (see p83). There
are lots of apartments
for rent here too. This
district is usually
favoured by those as
interested in shopping,
dining and gallery-
hopping as they are by
historic sights. Period
luxury hotels fronting the
Bosphorus are very
popular and expensive.
Rates and Booking
It pays to book early, as
many hotels now work
on a yield-management
system. A lot of hotels
also offer decent
discounts for bookings
made through their own
website (though this
doesn’t mean you can’t
find a better buy on one
of the standard online
booking sites, such as
Expedia) and for
bookings paid by cash.
Room prices tend to
drop dramatically out
of season (November to
early March, excluding
Christmas and New Year).
DIRECTORY
SHOPPING
City’s Mall
Teşvikiye Cad 162,
Nişantaşı
∑ citysnisantasi.com
Demirören
MAP K4 • İstiklal Cad,
Beyoğlu
∑ demırorenistiklal.com
Grand Bazaar
∑ grandbazaaristanbul.
org
Kanyon
Büyükdere Cad 185,
Levent
∑ kanyon.com.tr
Zorlu Centre
Zincirlikuyu
∑ zorlucenter.com
TRIPS AND TOURS
Big Bus City Tours
MAP R4 • Ayasofya
Karşısı 1, Sultanahmet
§ (0212) 283 13 96
∑ bigbustours.com
Cooking Alaturka
MAP R5 • Akbıyık Cad
72/A, Sultanahmet
∑ cookingalaturka.com
Fest Travel
Barbaros Bulvarı 74,
Balmucu
§ (0212) 216 10 36
∑ festtravel.com.tr
Istanbul Walks
MAP Q5 • Şifahamamı
Sok, Sultanahmet
§ (0212) 516 63 00
∑ istanbulwalks.net
Istanbul Tour Studio
MAP G2 • Necatibey
Cad 97, Beyoğlu
§ (0533) 355 30 49
∑ istanbultourstudio.
com
Istanbul Eats
∑ istanbuleats.com.tr
 112 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Places to Stay
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast
if included), taxes and extra charges.
¨ under ¨ 200 ¨¨ ¨ 200–400
Luxury Hotels
Ceylan
InterContinental,
Taksim
MAP B5 Asker Ocağı
•
Cad 1 (0212) 368 44
•
44 www.istanbul.inter
•
continental.com.tr
•
¨¨¨
This hilltop tower offers
some of the finest views
in the city. It has 382
rooms and suites, plus
a bar, restaurants,
health club and 24-
hour business centre.
Join Istanbul high
society for tea with live
music in the botanic
garden or tea lounge.
Conrad Istanbul,
Beşiktaş
MAP C5 Saray Cad 5
•
•
(0212) 310 25 25 www. •
conradistanbul.com ¨¨¨
Each of the 590 rooms
in this huge hotel has
a view. The facilities
are second to none,
and the furnishings
chic. Its bars and
restaurants offer Italian
and Turkish cuisine.
Eresin Crown,
Sultanahmet
MAP Q6 Küçük •
Ayasofya Cad 40 (0212) •
638 44 28 www.eresin
• •
crown.com.tr ¨¨¨ •
Standing on the site of
the great Byzantine
Palace, this truly
luxurious hotel even
has its own museum.
All 60 rooms and suites
have parquet floors
Park Hyatt, Teşvikiye
MAP B4 Bronz Sok 4,
•
Teşvikiye (0212) 315
•
12 34 www.istanbul.
•
park.hyatt.com ¨¨¨ •
Located in a busy
shopping district, this
¨¨¨ over ¨ 400 stylish boutique hotel has
90 spacious rooms and
and Jacuzzi baths. suites. There is also a spa
There are two restau- and a fitness centre.
rants, a bar and a
terrace that offers Raffles Istanbul
lovely sea views. MAP C4 Zorlu Centre,
•
Zincirlikuyu (0212) 924
•
Four Seasons Hotel, 02 00 www.raffles.com/
•
Sultanahmet Istanbul ¨¨¨ •
MAP R5 Tevkifhane
•
Part of a contemporary
Sok 1 (0212) 402 30 00
•
shopping and performing
•
www.fourseasons.com arts centre, Raffles is
•
¨¨¨ luxury incarnate. Many
The sheer opulence of rooms have a Bosphorus
the Four Seasons belies panorama. Personal
its past as an Ottoman butlers attend to guests'
prison. The 65 rooms needs and there is a
are furnished with Michelin-star Spanish
antiques and kilims, restaurant attached.
there is a health club,
a magnificent glass- Ritz-Carlton, Şişli
roofed restaurant and MAP B5 Süzer Plaza,
•
superb views over the Elmadağ (0212) 334 44
•
Sea of Marmara. 44 www.ritzcarlton.com
•
•
¨¨¨
Hyatt Regency, “Ritz“ is a byword for
Taksim luxury, and the Istanbul
•
MAP B5 Taşkışla Cad
•
hotel’s 244 rooms and
•
(0212) 368 12 34 suites more than live up
•
www.hyatt.com to expectation. There’s a
•
¨¨¨ whisky and cigar bar too.
A resort hotel with 360
rooms and suites, plus Large Upmarket
health club, pool, tennis Hotels
courts and business
facilities. Elegant decor Ataköy Marina Hotel
and great views. Sahilyolu (0212) 560 41
•
10 www.atakoymarina-
•
Marmara Pera hotel.com.tr ¨¨¨ •
Tepebaşı Situated on the shores
MAP J5 Meşrutiyet Cad of the Sea of Marmara
•
(0212) 334 03 00 •
in the Bakirköy district,
www.themarmara hotels. the Ataköy Marina Hotel
com ¨¨¨
•
is only 8 km (5 miles)
In the heart of Beyoğlu, from Ataturk Airport.
with a signature café- Facilities include tennis
restaurant and rooftop courts, swimming pool
pool, this chic hotel has and meeting rooms.
fabulous floor-to-ceiling There is a shuttle bus
windows in every room. to Sultanahmet.

Best Western Eresin
Taxim Hotel, Taksim
MAP B5 Topçu Cad 16
•
•
(0212) 256 08 03 www. •
eresintaxim.com.tr ¨¨¨
You can even get hypo-
allergenic pillows at this
four-star hotel. The 70
rooms and suites include
some triples. The lounge
bar has live piano music
in the evenings.
Germir Palas
MAP Y2 Cumhuriyet
•
Cad 7, Taksim (0212) •
361 11 10 www. •
germirpalas.com ¨¨¨ •
The entrance to this town-
centre gem on Beyoğlu’s
main street is easy to
miss. The lobby and bars
are plush, and the rooms
are well decorated with
interesting textiles. The
terrace restaurant is
great in summer and
boasts fine views over
the Bosphorus.
Hilton Hotel, Harbiye
MAP B5 Cumhuriyet
•
Cad (0212) 315 60 00
•
•
www.hilton.com ¨¨¨
Conveniently located for
Taksim and the business
districts, this grand hotel
has 498 rooms, fitness
centre, tennis courts, two
pools, hamam, conference
facilities and much more.
The Marmara
Istanbul, Taksim
MAP L4 Taksim •
Meydanı (0212) 334
•
83 00 www.taksim.the
•
marmarahotels.com
•
¨¨¨
This large, modern
hotel situated on
Taksim Square offers
376 comfortable rooms
with city views, as
well as a fully equipped
gym, outdoor pool,
hamam and several
top-class restaurants.
Places to Stay ❮❮ 113
Mövenpick Hotel Taxim Suites, Taksim
Istanbul, Levent MAP B5 Cumhuriyet
•
MAP U2 Büyükdere Cad
•
Cad 31 (0212) 254 77 77
•
4, Levent (0212) 319 29
• •
www.taximsuites.com
•
29 www.moven
• •
¨¨¨
pickhotels.com ¨¨¨ •
These 20 fully serviced
This hilltop hotel with 249 suites are good high-end
rooms and suites offers value for those who need
great views and slick a bit more space, giving
service. The lobby café you a one-bed apartment
serves sumptuous for less than the cost of a
chocolates, cakes and five-star hotel room. With
Mövenpick ice cream. Taksim Square on the
doorstep, there are plenty
Radisson Blu of places to eat nearby.
Bosphorus Hotel,
Ortaköy Characterful Hotels
MAP C4 Çırağan Cad 46
•
– Sultanahmet and
•
(0212) 310 15 00 www. •
the Old City
radissonsas.com ¨¨¨ •
The location is the real Best Western
winner – the peaceful Acropol Hotel
village of Ortaköy, beside MAP R5 Akbıyık Cad
•
the Bosphorus.This hotel 21 (0212) 638 90 21
•
has a patio restaurant •
www.book.best
overlooking the water, and western.com ¨¨ •
120 rooms with contem- The 28 rooms in this
porary decor. Allow plenty restored Ottoman house
of time for taxis into town have wooden floors and
during rush hour. painted ceilings – but also
Wi-Fi and double glazing.
Renaissance Polat The fifth-floor restaurant
Istanbul Hotel, has fine views. Free airport
•
Yeşilyurt transfers for guests.
Sahilyolu Cad 2 (0212) •
414 18 00 www.polat •
Blue House Hotel
renaissance.com ¨¨¨ •
MAP R5 Dalbastı Sok 14
•
Located close to the •
(0212) 638 90 10 www.
•
airport and World Trade bluehouse.com.tr ¨¨ •
Centre, this 416-room In a quiet street behind
hotel has a luxury pool the Arasta Bazaar, this
and health club. There hotel has 26 rooms, all
are also fine restaurants, with superb views.
bars and cafés, and good
business facilities. Hotel Dersaadet
MAP Q6 Küçük Ayasofya •
Swissôtel The Cad, Kapıağası Sok 5
Bosphorus, Maçka (0212) 458 07 60/1
•
MAP B5 Bayıldım •
www.hoteldersaadet.
•
Cad 2 (0212) 326 11 00 com ¨¨
• •
•
www.istanbul.swissotel. Its name means “place of
com ¨¨¨ •
felicity and beauty” –
On a hilltop with views of perfect for this Ottoman
the Bosphorus, this hotel house at the foot of the
has 585 rooms and suites, hill behind Sultanahmet
a wellness centre, Square. There are superb
shopping arcade, restau- views of the old city or the
rants and rooftop bars. sea from all 17 rooms.
 114 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Hotel Empress Zöe
MAP R5 Akbıyık Cad
•
10, Sultanahmet (0212)
•
518 43 60/25 04 www. •
emzoe.com ¨¨ •
Old houses surround a
lush garden and ruins
of a 15th-century
bathhouse at this
delightful hotel. Its 25
rooms and suites are
decorated in Turkish style.
Hotel Kariye,
Edirnekapı
MAP J2 Kariye Camii
•
Sok 6 (0212) 534 84 14
•
•
www.kariyeotel.com
•
¨¨
This late 19th-century
wooden mansion has
27 rooms and suites
(with modern amenities),
a garden overlooking
the Golden Horn and
renowned restaurant
Asitane (see p79).
Hotel Kybele
MAP R4 Yerebatan Cad
•
35 (0212) 511 77 66/7
•
•
www.kybelehotel.com
•
¨¨
Intimate, family-run and
friendly, and a couple
of steps from Divanyolu,
this Aladdin’s cave of
a hotel is a treasure
trove of Turkish history,
with hundreds of lamps
and other Ottoman
antiques decorating
the public rooms, 16
bedrooms and garden.
Hotel Sarı Konak
MAP R5 Mimar Mehmet
•
Ağa Cad 26 (0212) 638
•
62 58 www.istanbul
•
Eklektik Guesthouse, Occupying the top floor of
hotelsairkonak.com Galata
•
¨¨ MAP F2 Kadribey•
The owners of this Cikmazı 4, Serdari Ekrem this French-Turkish con-
19-room hotel pride Cad (0212) 243 74 46
themselves on providing www.eklektikgalata.
a “home from home”. com ¨
The café has 360º views, A funky guesthouse in a scene. All-white rooms
and breakfast is served in restored Ottoman house, are offset by cartoon
a Byzantine courtyard. this has seven rooms
Ibrahim Pasha decorated in styles from
MAP Q5 Terzihane Sok,
•
1960s retro to colonial.
5 Adliye Yanı (0212) 518
•
03 94 www.
•
Hotel Villa Zurich,
ibrahimpasha.com ¨¨ •
Cihangir
A couple of 19th-century MAP G2 Akarsu Yokuşu
•
town houses, on a side Cad 36 (0212) 293 06 04
•
street running off the his- •
www.hotelvillazurich.
toric Hippodrome, have com ¨
•
been converted into a A short walk from Taksim
superb, ultra-friendly Square, this 42-room hotel
boutique hotel. Room has a breakfast terrace
decor combines Ottoman with Bosphorus views.
opulence with contemp-
orary elegance. Down- Anemon Galata,
stairs is a lounge area, Beyoğlu
an open fire and a library. MAP F2 Büyük Hendek
•
Cad 5, Kuledibi (0212) •
Sarnıç Hotel 293 23 43 www. •
MAP Q6 Küçük Ayasofya anemonhotels.com ¨¨
• •
Cad 26 (0212) 518 23 23 This 27-room hotel in a
•
•
www.sarnichotel.com restored Art Nouveau
•
¨¨ mansion is just a short
This 21-room hotel behind walk from Beyoğlu’s
the Blue Mosque has a shopping and nightlife.
lovely rooftop terrace
restaurant. Guests can see Galatasaray House
the magnificent 5th-century Hotel
Byzantine cistern (sarnıç) MAP K5 Bostanbaşı Cad
•
under the hotel. 19, Çukurcuma (0212) •
244 34 00 www. •
Ayasofya Konakları househotel.com ¨¨ •
MAP R4 Soğukçeşme
•
This 1870s building is
Sok (0212) 513 36 60
•
located in the quiet side
•
www.ayasofya streets beneath İstiklal
konaklari.com ¨¨¨ •
Caddesi. The block has
The first of the “special been converted into a
hotels” in Sultanahmet, stylish hotel with high-
this stretches along nine ceilinged rooms, wooden
restored houses and has floors and chrome
64 rooms. There’s a café showers. Great views
and a restaurant on site. from the top-floor.
Characterful Mama Shelter
Hotels – Galata, MAP K4 İstiklal Cad
•
Beyoğlu and 50-54, Beyoğlu (0212) •
around 252 01 00 www. •
mamashelter.com ¨¨ •
İstiklal Caddesi’s swish
Demirören mall (see p110),
•
cept hotel brings a bit of
•
good-value sophistication
•
and fun to the city’s hotel
masks over light fittings
 Places to Stay ❮❮ 115

and exposed brick walls. Neo-Classical building great terrace. Choose

There’s a restaurant-bar- that combines sleek from mixed-sex dorms
club attached. decor with period style. or private doubles.
Elegant roof bar.
Niles Hotel Bada Bing
MAP E5 Dibekli Cami
•
Tom Tom Suites Serçe Sokak 6, Karaköy
Sok 13 (0212) 517 32 39
•
MAP K6 Tomtom • •
(0212) 249 41 11 www. •

•
www.hotelniles.com ¨¨ Kaptan Sk 18 (0212)
• •
badabinghostel.com ¨ •

Located near the main 292 49 49 www. •

Located in the district of
tourist areas of tomtomsuites.com ¨¨¨ •
Karaköy, this trendy yet
Sultanahmet, this hotel Occupying a former well priced hostel
offers great value with Franciscan nunnery, Tom provides air-conditioned
compact yet tasteful Tom Suites provide some rooms as well as four-,
rooms, an excellent roof- of the most stylish rooms six- and ten-bed dormi-
top restaurant with sea in Beyoğlu. Located tories. The rooftop terrace
views and friendly staff. opposite the Italian offers good views.
consulate on a quiet street,
SuB the rooms have en-suite Büyük (Grand)
Necatibey Cad 21, Karaköy bathrooms with marble- Londra, Beyoğlu
•
(0212) 243 00 05 www. clad walls, high-ceilings
•
MAP J5 Meşrutiyet Cad
•

subkarakoy.com ¨¨ •
and muted contemporary 53 (0212) 245 06 70
•

The rooms are individually furnishings. Some upper- •

www.londrahotel.net ¨ •

designed with a mix of floor rooms have lovely Faded decadence at its
industrial grunge and Bosphorus views. most alluring, the Londra
homely touches, such as has been around since the
wraparound headboards Vault Karaköy 1900s. Ernest Hemingway
and natural pine floors. MAP F3 Bankalar Cad 5,
•
stayed here and the
Excellent terrace bar and Karaköy (0212) 244 34
•
Turkish hit film Head On
café complete the picture. 00 www.thehousehotel.
•
featured the hotel. Some
com ¨¨¨ •
of the eccentrically deco-
Triada Residence A grandiose 19th-century rated rooms overlook the
MAP L4 Meşelik Sok 4,
•
bank in hip Karaköy has Golden Horn.
İstiklal Cad (0212) 251
•
been converted into a
01 01 www.triada.com. boutique hotel run by the
•
Hotel Sultanahmet,
tr ¨¨
•
well-regarded House Sultanahmet
Great location opposite group. Many original MAP Q4 Divanyolu Cad
•

the monumental Greek features have been 20 (0212) 527 02 39

•

Orthodox Church of Haghia retained, including •

www.hotelsultanahmet.
Triada. The cosy but granite floors and tall, com ¨ •

contemporary rooms have elegant windows. The A popular budget choice

pale walls adorned with vault itself is now stocked on the main drag, the
tasteful prints and photo- with fine wines. Sultanahmet does the
graphs, contrasting with basics well, with clean
heavily grained wooden Budget Hotels rooms and friendly staff.
floors and furniture. and Self-Catering
Large flat-screen TVs Naz Wooden House
in all rooms. Agora Guest House Inn, Sultanahmet
and Hostel MAP R6 Akbıyık
•

10 Karaköy MAP R5 Amiral Tafdil

•
Değirmeni Sok 7 (0212)
•

Kemeraltı Cad 10, Karaköy Sok 6 (0212) 458 55 47

• •
516 71 30 www.naz
•

•
(0212) 703 33 33 www. www.agoraguesthouse.
•
woodenhouseinn.com ¨ •

morganshotelgroup.com com ¨ •
This wooden bed and
•
¨¨¨ The Agora blurs the lines breakfast is right in the
Located close to the between small budget heart of the Old City.
Galata Bridge, the Morgan hotel and hostel. There’s The seven imaginatively
Group’s first venture in a comfy communal living decorated rooms are very
Istanbul is fashioned room/breakfast area, with good value, while the roof
from a 19th-century computers, a huge TV and terrace has great views.
For a key to hotel price categories see p112
 116 ❯❯ Streetsmart

Peninsula management. Close to Bosphorus and

MAP G6 Adliye Sok 6,
•
Haghia Sophia (see pp16– Seafront Hotels
Sultanahmet (0212) •
17), with superb views
458 68 50 www.hotel-
•
from the roof. Anzac Hotel,
peninsula.com ¨ •
Çanakkale
Well located, this boutique Hotel Bulvar Palace, Saat Kulesi Meydanı 8
hotel offers great value Aksaray (0286) 217 77 77
•

for money. There is a MAP D5 Atatürk Bulvari

•
www.anzachotel.
•

lovely roof terrace that 36 (0212) 528 58 81

•
com ¨ •

also doubles up as the •

breakfast room. Service
is excellent.
Rapunzel Hostel
MAP F3 Bereketzade
•
Camii Sok 3, Galata
•
(0212) 292 50 34
•
www.rapunzelistanbul.
com ¨ •
Born out of a need to
provide (mainly) younger
visitors with a base in
www.hotelbulvarpalas. Travellers rave about
com ¨¨ •
the superb service at
This is a great deal – a this small hotel, well
four-star hotel at a bar- placed for Troy and
gain price. The location Gallipoli. There are
near the Grand Bazaar 25 rooms, a restau-
is good, and the 70 rant and rooftop bar
rooms and 10 suites (in summer).
are well-equipped.
Aya Nikola Butik
Manzara Istanbul, Pansiyon, Büyükada
Galata (Princes’ Islands)
MAP F2 Tatarbeyi Sok
•
MAP V6 Aya Nikola
•

the trendy Galata 26B (0212) 252 46 60

•
Mevki 104, Büyükada
district, Rapunzel offers •
www.manzara-istanbul. (0126) 382 41 43
•

more than the average com ¨¨ •

www.ayanikola
•

Istanbul hostel, with Located in the heart butikpansiyon.com ¨¨ •

en-suite dorms, hair- of the city, Manzara Right on the waterfront

dryers and individual offers a wide range on charming Büyükada
reading lights. of spacious apartment (see p99), the largest
options. Many have a of the Princes’ Islands,
Şebnem Hotel, balcony and terrace this atmospheric 11-
Sultanahmet with breathtaking room boutique hotel
MAP S5 Akbıyık Cad
•
provides the perfect
views over the Bosphorus.
Adliye Sokak Çikmazı antidote to teeming
1 (0212) 517 66 23
•
Pasha Place Istanbul. Go to sleep
•
www.sebnemhotel. MAP J6 Serdar-I Ekrem to the sound of the
•

net ¨ •
Cad, Galata 07729 251
•
water lapping against
The Şebnem is a small, 676 www.istanbulplace. the shore a few feet away.
•

welcoming guest com ¨¨¨ •

house, with 15 simply Pasha Place is the Merit Halki Palace,

decorated rooms most prestigious property Heybeliada (Princes’
(including one triple and in the roster of Anglo- Islands)
one family room). Turkish partnership MAP V6 Refah Şehitleri
•

Istanbul!place. Like Cad 94 (0216) 351 00 25

•

Side Hotel & Pension, most of their other www.halkipalacehotel.

•

Sultanahmet pads, it’s a beautifully com ¨¨ •

MAP R5 Utangaç Sok 20 renovated 19th century

•
A beautifully restored
•
(0212) 517 22 82 www. third-floor apartment
•
old wooden house, the
sidehotel.com ¨ •
located near the Galata hotel offers lovely views
You can choose between Tower. This one offers across Heybeliada and
a hotel room (half with two spacious double the Sea of Marmara
air conditioning, half bedrooms, one twin from the terrace
with fans), two self- bedroom and a restaurant, pool
catering apartments living room with views and balcony. Ample
and a more basic over the Golden Horn opportunities for
pension (without air to the Old City, as well activities such as hiking,
conditioning) – all side by as a spacious kitchen, horse riding, cycling
side, and under the same dining space and bar. and short walks.
 Places to Stay ❮❮ 117

Splendid Palace palace has a spa, health Les Ottomans

Hotel, Büyükada club and two of the city’s MAP C4 Muallim Naci
•

(Princes’ Islands) best restaurants. Most of Cad 68 (0212) 359 15 00

•

MAP V6 23 Nisan Cad

•
the 313 rooms are in the •
www.lesottomans.com
39 (0216) 382 69 50
• •
modern extensions, but •
¨¨¨
www.splendidhotel.net for a real treat take one One of the city’s most
•
¨¨ of the 11 suites in the exclusive (and most
There are touches of Art original palace. expensive) hotels. Housed
Nouveau elegance in this in an old waterfront
very grand belle époque Four Seasons mansion, it is noted for
hotel, built in 1908 around Bosphorus its architecture. Guests
a central courtyard. The Çırağan Cad 28, Beşiktaş can admire superlative
70 rooms and four suites •
(0212) 381 40 00 Bosphorus views, head
all have balconies and •
www.fourseasons.com/ down the strait on a hotel
wonderful views. bosphorus ¨¨¨•
boat, relax in the Caudalie
If you don’t fancy the Four spa or fine-dine at
A’jia Seasons Sultanahmet in Şamadan restaurant.
MAP U2 Çubuklu Cad
•
the touristy Old City, head
27, Kanlıca (0212) 413
•
for this one. The setting, Shangri-La
93 00 www.ajiahotel.
•
in a restored 19th-century Bosphorus
com ¨¨¨ •
palace overlooking the MAP C5 Hayrettin
•

This is a lovely conversıon famous strait is an İskelesi Sk, Beşiktaş •

of a traditional wooden ideal choice. There (0212) 275 88 88 www. •

waterfront yalı (mansion). are also good spas, shangri-la.com/Istanbul

A’jia is a little out of the excellent restaurants ¨¨¨
•

city for some, but its and great views. Fashioned from an old
soothing mix of contem- tobacco factory this
porary decor, informal Grand Tarabya prestigious Bosphorus
ambience and luscious MAP U2 Haydar Aliyev front hotel is made up of
•

breakfast spreads in a Cad, Tarabya (0212) 363 186 rooms. Rooms are
•

peaceful location make 33 00 www.

•
plush and suites have
it a winner. grandttarabya.com ¨¨¨ stunning views across to
•

Out in the smart the Old City. As you might

Bosphorus Bosphorus-front suburb expect, Far Eastern
Palace, Beylerbeyi of Tarabya (ancient (Cantonese) cuisine is a
(Asian side) Therapia) this hotel, big feature here. The only
MAP U3 Yalıboyu Cad
•
right on a little bay of downside is the lack of
64 (0216) 422 00 03
•
the famous strait, offers extensive grounds.
•
www.bosphoruspalace. contemporary-styled
com ¨¨¨ •
rooms, good dining and Sumahan on the
On the banks of the a stunning spa with floor- Water, Çengelköy
Bosphorus, the restored to-ceiling glass windows (Asian side)
yalı (mansion) of a that command stunning MAP U3 Kuleli Cad 43
•

19th-century Grand Vizier. views over the Bosphorus. (0216) 422 80 00 www.
• •

With only 14 rooms, it is sumahan.com ¨¨¨ •

intimate and glamorous – House Hotel Magnificently converted

perfect for a romantic Bosphorus from an old rakı distillery
dinner. A private boat Salahane Sok 1, Ortaköy by its architect owners,
commutes to the centre. •
(0212) 327 77 87 the 18-room Sumahan
•
www.thehousehotel. on the Asian shore of the
Çırağan Palace com ¨¨¨
•
Bosphorus is fast getting
Kempinski, Beşiktaş Restored by the design a reputation as one of
MAP C4 Çırağan Cad 32 team Autobahn, this
•
Istanbul’s best small
•
(0212) 326 46 46 hotel occupies a lovely hotels. Perhaps not the
•
www.kempinski.com/ 19th-century mansion best sightseeing base
istanbul ¨¨¨•
on the waterfront. Some (although the hotel runs
Its terrace lapped by the rooms even have superb shuttle boats), it is ideal
Bosphorus, this Ottoman views of the strait to Asia. for a romantic break.
For a key to hotel price categories see p112
 118 ❯❯ General Index
Istanbul
Page numbers in bold refer
to main entries
360 51, 88
A Atatürk 33, 39, 107
Abaqa Khan 43
Abdalonymos, King of Sidon
20
Abdül Aziz, Sultan 65, 77, 92,
94
Abdül Hamit I, Sultan 14
Abdül Hamit II, Sultan 23,
33, 65
Beylerbeyi Palace 92
paranoia of 92
Yıldız Palace 39, 91
Abdül Mecit I, Sultan 15, 97
Dolmabahçe Palace 12,
32, 34, 91
Ablutions Fountain 18
Accommodation 111–17
Addicts’ Alley 27
Ağa, Sedefkar Mehmet 18, 42 B
Ahmet I, Sultan 15, 42, 60
Ahmet III, Sultan 100
Ahrida Synagogue 78
Air travel 104, 105
Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası 50
Aksanat (Akbank) Cultural
Centre 51
Al Jamal 51, 88
Alcohol 43, 55
Alexander Sarcophagus 20,
44
Anadolu Kavağı 7, 35, 94
Anastasis Fresco (St Saviour Barracks of the Black
in Chora) 28
Anatolia and Troy Gallery
(Archaeological Museum)
21
Ankara 39
Anthemius of Tralles 60
Antiques 53, 84, 87
Aqueduct of Valens 41, 75
Arabs 40
Arasta Bazaar 52, 63, 64
Arch of Theodosius 72
Archaeological Museum 10, Basilica Cistern 6, 36–7, 63,
20–21, 44, 62
itineraries 6, 7, 63
Armenian community 42–3,
98
Armenian Patriarchate 42–3
Arnavutköy 35, 94
Art galleries
free 54, 55
see also Museums and
galleries
Arter Gallery 45
Asian Istanbul and Princes’
Islands 96–101
A Day in Asia 99
bars, cafés and
restaurants 101
Asian Istanbul and Princes’ Bazaars see Markets and
Islands (cont.) bazaars
map 96 Beads 53
sights 97–100 Bebek 35
Asitane 50 Bekir, Ali Muhiddin Hacı 38,
Aşiyan Museum 45, 92 87
Belgrade Forest 75
Atatürk Museum 45, 83 Belly dancing 51, 88
Atatürk’s Rooms Beyazıt II, Sultan 72, 86
(Dolmabahçe Palace) 33 Beyazıt Gate 23
Military Museum 84 Beyazıt Mosque 72
Monument of Beyazıt Square 69, 71
Independence 84 Beyazıt Tower 72
Atik Ali Paşa, Grand Vizier 72 Beylerbeyi Palace 35, 92
Atik Ali Paşa Mosque 72 Beyoğlu 82–9
Atik Valide Mosque 30, 42, 100 A Day in Beyoğlu 85
Attila the Hun 54 bars, cafés and
Automobile Museum 94 restaurants 89
Avrupa Pasajı 87 characterful hotels 114–15
Ayasofya Konakları 63, 114 map 83
Aynalıkavak Palace 78 nightlife 88
Aznavar Pasajı 87 shopping 87
sights 82–6
Beyoğlu İş Merkezi 85, 87
Bezmialem 15
Babylon 51, 88 Black Sea 90
Baghdad Pavilion (Topkapı Blue beads 53
Palace) 13 Blue Mosque 10, 18–19, 42,
Baklava 51, 93 60
Balat 74, 78 itineraries 6, 63
Balıkçı Sabahattin 51, 67 Books 52, 72
Ballet 51 Börek 51
Balyan, Garabet 32, 65 Borusan Contemporary 94
Balyan, Nikoğos 32 The Bosphorus 90–95
Balyan, Sarkis 92 A Walk Through Karaköy 93
Banking 108 bars, cafés and
Baphaeon, Battle of 39 restaurants 95
hotels 116–17
Eunuchs (Harem) 14 map 90
Bars sights 91–4
Asian Istanbul and Bosphorus Bridge 34, 39, 92
Princes’ Islands 101 Bosphorus Cruise 7, 11,
Beyoğlu 89 34–5
The Bosphorus 95 Bosphorus Tunnel 62
Golden Horn, Fatih and Boza 47
Fener 79 British Crimean War
Sultanahmet and the Old Cemetery 100
City 66 Budget hotels 115–16
Basil I, Emperor 41 Bulgarians 40
Burgazada 98, 99, 100, 101
69, 72 Bus travel 105
Baths 31 Büyükada 99, 100, 101
Baths of Roxelana 64 Byzantine Empire 38, 39
Çağaloğlu Baths 62, 63 art 28–9
Çemberlitaş Baths 6, 11, monuments 40–41
30–31, 68, 69 notable rulers 41
Galatasaray Baths 85, 86 Byzantion (Byzantium) 38,
Imperial Baths (Harem) 14 60, 98
Süleymaniye Mosque Byzas 60
Complex 23
Bazaar Quarter and
Eminönü 68–73 C
A Day’s Shopping 69 Caferağa Medresesi 64
cafés and restaurants 73 Cafés
map 68–9 Asian Istanbul and
sights 69–72 Princes’ Islands 101

Cafés (cont.)
Bazaar Quarter and
Eminönü 73
Beyoğlu 89
The Bosphorus 95
Golden Horn, Fatih and
Fener 79
Sultanahmet and the Old
City 66
Çağaloğlu Baths 62, 63
Calligraphy 44, 45, 64
Car travel 105
Caravanserai (Süleymaniye
Mosque Complex) 27
Carpets 53
Carpet Museum 17, 64
Grand Bazaar 22
mosques 19
Çarşamba Street Market 52
Castles and fortifications
Fortress of Asia 35, 92, 94
Fortress of Europe 35, 92–3
Theodosian Walls 6, 40,
54, 77
Yedikule Castle 76, 77
Yoros Castle 35, 94
Cemal Reşit Rey Concert
Hall 51
Çemberlitaş Baths 6, 11,
30–31, 68, 69, 71
Ceremonial Hall
(Dolmabahçe Palace) 32
Chalcedon 98
Christ Church 43, 86
Christianity 71
Christie, Agatha 83
Churches 54
Christ Church 43, 86
Church of the Holy
Apostles see Fatih
Mosque
Church of the
Pammakaristos 41, 74, 75
Church of the Panocrator
78
Haghia Eirene 12, 41, 65
Holy Mother of God 43
St Anthony of Padua 43,
86
St George 42, 54, 78
St Mary of the Mongols 43,
78
St Saviour in Chora 6, 11,
28–9, 40, 76
St Stephen of the Bulgars
54, 78
SS Peter and Paul 84–5
SS Sergius and Bacchus
41, 65
Zoodochus Pege 46
see also Haghia Sophia
Çirağan Palace 94
Cisterns 40
Basilica Cistern 6, 36–7,
63, 69, 72
Cistern of 1,001 Columns
40, 64
Sultan Sarnıç 55
Clock Tower (Dolmabahçe
Palace) 33
General Index ❮❮ 119
Clothing
cheap 53
etiquette 43, 107
shopping for 53
Clubs 51, 88
Coach travel 104, 105
Coban Salatası 50
Column of Constantine VII
Porphryogenitus 60
Column of the Goths 65
Column of Marcian 47
Concerts
Haghia Eirene 41
venues 51
Constantine I the Great,
Emperor 16, 63, 71
founds Constantinople 39,
41, 60, 71
tomb 71, 75
Constantine VII
Porphryogenitus,
Emperor 60
Constantine IX Monomachus,
Emperor 16
Constantine XI Palaeologus,
Emperor 38, 41, 77
Constantine’s Column 70
Constantinople
conquest of (1453) 38, 39,
41, 75
founding of 39, 41, 60, 71
sack and capture of (1204)
38
Consulates 107
Coronation Square (Haghia
Sophia) 17
Courtyards
Blue Mosque 18
Courtyard of the
Concubines (Harem) 14
Süleymaniye Mosque 26
Crime 106
Crimean War 38, 43, 45, 86,
95
British Crimean War
Cemetery 100
Cruises
arriving by cruise ship 104
Bosphorus Cruise 7, 11,
34–5
Crusade, Fourth 38, 60
Crystal Staircase
(Dolmabahçe Palace) 33
Çukurcuma 53, 84, 85, 87
Cuno, Helmuth 98
Currency 108
Customs regulations 106
D First Courtyard (Topkapı
Dance
festivals 56
venues 88
Depo 46
Disabled travellers 108, 109
Divanyolu Caddesi 63, 64
Dolma 50
Dolmabahçe Palace 7, 11,
32–3, 34, 91
Dolmuş 105
Domes
Blue Mosque 18
Haghia Sophia 17, 60
St Saviour in Chora 28
Dominicans 85
Dormition of the Virgin (St
Saviour in Chora) 29
Dress code 43, 107
Driving 105
E
Eastern Empire 38
Edirnekapı Pigeon Fanciers’
Market 47
Edward VIII, King 62
Egyptian Bazaar 7, 52,
70–71
Egyptian Obelisk 60
Embassies 107
Emergency services 107
Eminönü 70
Pier 34
waterfront 7, 70
see also Bazaar Quarter
and Eminönü
Emirgan Park 54, 47, 56, 94
Entertainment 55
venues 51
Erdoğan, Recep Tayyip 39
Etiquette
Islamic 43
personal security 107
Eunuchs 14
Events 56–7
Eyüp Cemetery 78
Eyüp el-Ensari 42, 76
Eyüp Sultan Mosque 42, 76, 77
F
Faik, Sait 98, 100
Fatih see Golden Horn, Fatih
and Fener
Fatih Mosque 42, 75
Favourites’ Apartments 14
Feast of Sacrifice (Eid-ul-
Adha) 57
Fener see Golden Horn,
Fatih and Fener
Fenerbahçe 98
Feriye Lokantasi 50, 95
Ferries
Bosphorus 35
Golden Horn and Princes’
Island 55
travelling by 105
Festivals 56–7
Fikret, Tevfik 92
Palace) 12
Fish Market 86
Florence Nightingale
Museum 45, 97
Flower Arcade 86
Food and drink
culinary highlights 48–49
culinary specialities 49
dining 110–11
Islamic etiquette 43
 120 ❯❯ General Index

Food and drink (cont.) Guides, tour 111 Imperial Hall (Harem) 14
money-saving tips 55 Gülbahar Hatun 75 Imperial Porcelain Factory 91
souvenirs 53 Gülhane Park 54, 56 Imperial Sofa (Topkapı
see also Bars; Cafés; Gülnuş Emetullah 100 Palace) 13
Restaurants Imperial Tombs 65
Fortress of Asia 35, 92, 94 Imperial Wardrobe (Topkapı
Fortress of Europe 35, 92–3 H Palace) 13
Forum Tauri 69 Hafsa Sultan 15 İmroz 50
Fountains Haghia Eirene 12, 41, 65 Infancy of Christ (St Saviour
Ablutions Fountain (Blue Haghia Sophia 8–9, 10, in Chora) 29
Mosque) 18 16–17, 40, 60 Innocence, Museum of 84
Grand Bazaar 22 itineraries 6, 63 Insurance 106
Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain 64 nave 17, 24–5 International Asia-to-Europe
Franciscans 43 Haghia Triada Monastery 99, Swimming, Rowing and
Free attractions 54–5 100 Sailing Competitions 56
Funicular 86, 104 Halikarnassos Lion 20 International Istanbul Film
Hamam see Baths Festival 56
Handan Sultan 15 International Istanbul Fine
G Hans 23, 69 Arts Biennial 57
Galata Bridge 7, 70 Harems International Istanbul Jazz
Galata Tower 58–9, 82, 85 Dolmabahçe Palace 32 Festival 57
Galatasaray Baths 85, 86 Topkapı Palace 12, 14–15 International Istanbul Music
Galatasaray School 85, 86 Hattuşa Sphinx 20 and Dance Festival 56
Galip Dede Caddesi 85, 87 Hattusili III, King of the Internet access 108, 109
Galleries see Museums and Hittites 21 Io 34
galleries Haydarpaşa Station 98 Irene of Athens, Empress 41
Gallipoli 33 Head covering 43, 107 Ishtar Gate 20
Garbo, Greta 83 Health 106, 107 Isidore of Miletus 60
Gardens see Parks and Hera 34 İskele Mosque 97
gardens Heybeliada 99, 100 Islam 109
Gates Hippodrome 40, 60, 63 etiquette 43
Beyazıt Gate 23 Historic reproductions 55 Sunni 62
Dolmabahçe Palace 32 History 38–9 Issus, Battle of 44
Gate of Salutations History of Science and Istanbul Eurasia Marathon 57
(Topkapı Palace) 12 Technology in Islam Istanbul Modern 44, 91, 93
Golden Gate 76 Museum 45, 65 Istanbul Municipality
Grand Bazaar 23 Hodja Pasha Cultural Centre Building 47
Imperial Gate 51, 72 Istanbul Through the Ages
(Dolmabahçe Palace) 32 Holy Mantle 13 21
Imperial Gate (Topkapı Holy Mother of God, Church Istanbul University 72
Palace) 12 of the 43 Istanbulkart 55, 105
Ishtar Gate (Archaeological Hotels 111, 112–17 İstiklal Caddesi, 52, 83, 86
Museum) 20 Bosphorus and seafront itineraries 7, 85
Gay travellers 108, 109 116–17 Itineraries
Genoese 82 budget 115–16 A Day Along the Golden
Giritli 51, 67 characterful 113–15 Horn 79
Golden Cage (Harem) 14 Galata, Beyoğlu and A Day in Asia 99
Golden Fleece 34 around 114–15 A Day in Beyoğlu 85
Golden Gate 76 large upmarket 112–13 A Day in Sultanahmet 63
Golden Horn, Fatih and luxury 112 A Day’s Shopping 69
Fener 74–81 Sultanahmet and the Old A Walk Through Karaköy 93
A Day Along the Golden City 113–14 Four Days in Istanbul 6–7
Horn 79 Huns 40 Two Days in Istanbul 6
bars, cafés and İznik tiles 19
restaurants 79 Blue Mosque 18, 19
Golden Horn 54, 60, 70, 74, I Eyüp Sultan Mosque 76
80–81 İbrahim the Crazy, Sultan 65 Sokollu Mehmet Paşa
map 74 İbrahim Paşa, Grand Vizier Mosque 65
sights 75–8 45, 61 Süleymaniye Mosque 26
Golden Way (Harem) 14 İç Bedestan (Grand Bazaar) Tiled Mosque 100
Goths 65 22, 69 Tiled Pavilion 21
Gözleme 51 İmam Bayıldı 50 tulip motif 56
Grand Bazaar 11, 22–3, 52, 69 İmaret (Süleymaniye
itineraries 6, 71 Mosque Complex) 27
Great Palace 40, 60, 65, 75 Immigration 106 J
Great Palace Mosaics Imperial Baths (Harem) 14 Janissaries 27, 39, 84
Museum 40–41, 63, 64 Imperial Gate (Dolmabahçe Jasmund, August 62
Greek mythology 34, 97 Palace) 32 Jazz
Greek Orthodox Patriarchate Imperial Gate (Topkapı festival 57
42, 75 Palace) 12 venues 51, 88
 General Index ❮❮ 121
Jewellers’ Street (Grand Markets and bazaars (cont.)
Bazaar) 22 Edirnekapı Pigeon
Jewish community 78, 82, 100 Fanciers’ Market 47
Jewish Museum 46 Egyptian Bazaar 7, 52,
John II Comnenus, Emperor 70–71
75 Fish Market 86
Justice and Development Grand Bazaar 6, 11, 22–3,
Party (AKP) 39 52, 69
Justinian I, Emperor 16, 40, Karaköy Fish Market 55
41, 60, 63 Second-Hand Book
Great Palace 64 Bazaar 52, 72
Haghia Sophia 16, 40, 60 Spice Bazaar see Egyptian
Justinian II, Emperor 41 Bazaar
Marmaray line/tunnel 62,
98, 99
K Mata Hari 83
Kadesh, Treaty of 21 Mausolus, King 20
Kadıköy 96, 98, 101 Medical services 106, 107
Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain 64 Medreses
Kalenderhane Mosque 72 Caferağa Medresesi 64, 66
Kamondo Steps 93 Süleymaniye Mosque
Kanyon 53, 110, 111 Complex 27
Kara Memi 19 Mehmet II the Conqueror,
Karaköy Sultan 12, 35, 38, 39
A Walk through Karaköy 93 and Armenian community 43
Karaköy Fish Market 55 constructs model city 68
Kebabs 50 Eyüp Sultan Mosque 76
Kemal, Mustafa see Atatürk Fatih Mosque 42
Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque 93 Grand Bazaar 22, 69
Kınalıada 98, 99 tomb 75
Kiraç family 85 Mehmet III, Sultan 14, 15, 39
Kitchens Mehmet IV, Sultan 15, 71, 91
Süleymaniye Mosque Mehmet VI, Sultan 39
Complex 27 Mehter Band 44, 84
Topkapı Palace 12 Metochites, Theodore 28, 29, 76
Koç, Rahmi 77 Mosaic of (St Saviour in
Koç University 55 Chora) 29
Köfte 50 Metro 104, 105
Kösem Sultan 15 Mevlevi Monastery 45, 84, 85
Küçüksu Palace 94 Meze 50
Kumkapı 65, 67 Michael III, Emperor 41
Kuzguncuk 100 Michael IV, Emperor 16
Michael VIII Palaeologus,
Emperor 38, 43
L Mihrab
Laleli Mosque 72 Blue Mosque 19
Language, Turkish 109 Süleymaniye Mosque 26
The Last Judgment (St Mihrimah, Princess 15, 47,
Saviour in Chora) 29 70, 97
Le Corbusier 47 Mihrimah Mosque 47
Leander’s Tower 34, 97 Mikla 50
Leather 53 Milion Monument 64
Life of the Virgin (St Saviour Military Museum 44, 82, 84
in Chora) 29 Minarets (Blue Mosque) 18
Luxury hotels 112–13 Minbar (Blue Mosque) 19
Minerva Han 93
Miniatürk 78
M Misir Apartment 54
Mahmut I, Sultan 62, 84 Mobile phones 108, 109
Mahmut II, Sultan 15, 39, 65, Mohammed, the Prophet,
97 relics 13, 44
Manzikert, Battle of 38, 41 Monasteries
Marathon 57 Haghia Triada Monastery
Maria Palaeologina, (Heybeliada) 99, 100
Princess 43, 78 Monastery of St George
Markets and bazaars 52–3 (Büyükada) 99, 100
Arasta Bazaar 52, 63, 64 ruined Byzantine
Beyazıt Square market 69 (Burgazada) 98
Çarşamba Street Market Money 108
52 Money-saving tips 55
Mongeri, Giulio 86
Monument of Independence
84
Mosaics
Church of the
Pammakaristos 41, 74, 75
Church of St George 42
Great Palace Mosaics
Museum 40–41, 63, 64
St Saviour in Chora 29, 40,
76
Mosques
Atik Ali Paşa Mosque 72
Atik Valide Mosque 30, 42,
100
Beyazıt Mosque 72
Blue Mosque 6, 10, 18–19,
42, 60
etiquette 43
Eyüp Sultan Mosque 42,
76, 77
Fatih Mosque 42, 75
İskele Mosque 97
Kalenderhane Mosque 72
Kariye Mosque see St
Saviour in Chora
Kılıç Ali Paşa Mosque 93
Laleli Mosque 72
Mihrimah Mosque 47
New Mosque 71
Nuruosmaniye Mosque 71,
72
Nusretiye Mosque 93
Ottoman-era 54
Rüstem Paşa, Mosque 70, 71
Şemsi Paşa Mosque 97
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa
Mosque 65
Sülemaniye Mosque
Complex 11, 26–7, 42, 69
Tiled Mosque 100
Yavuz Selim Mosque 78
Yeni Valide Mosque 100
Yeraltı Camii 93
see also Haghia Sophia
Murat I, Sultan 39
Murat III, Sultan 14, 17, 75
Museums and galleries 44–5
Archaeological Museum
10, 20–21, 44, 62, 63
Arter Gallery 45
Aşiyan Museum 45, 92
Atatürk Museum 45, 83
Automobile Museum 94
Borusan Contemporary 94
Carpet Museum 17, 64
Church of the
Pammakaristos 41
Depo 46
Florence Nightingale
Museum 45, 97
Great Palace Mosaics
Museum 40–41, 63, 64
Haghia Sophia 6, 10,
16–17, 40, 60
History of Science and
Technology in Islam 45, 65
Istanbul Modern 44, 91, 93
Istanbul Toy Museum 100
Jewish Museum 46
 122 ❯❯ General Index

Museums and galleries (cont.) Off the Beaten Track 46–7 Postal services 108, 109
Mevlevi Monastery 45, 84, 85 Old City see Sultanahmet Princes’ Islands 96, 98–9
Military Museum 44, 82, 84 and the Old City Museum 99, 100
Museum of the Ancient One Love Festival 56 see also Asian Istanbul and
Orient 20, 21, 62 Opening hours 109 Princes’ Islands
Museum of Innocence 84 Opera 51 Public holidays 109
Museum Pass 55 Orhan Gazi 39 Public transport 55, 104–5
Museum of the Princes’ Orient Express 83
Islands 99, 100 Ortaköy 34, 51, 94
Museum of Turkish and Osman II, Sultan 39 R
Islamic Arts 45, 61, 63 Osman III, Sultan 72 Radio 109
National Palaces Painting Osman Gazi 39 Rahmi Koç Museum 45, 76–7
Museum 94 Osman Hamdi Bey 20 Rail travel 104, 105
Naval Museum 45, 91 Ottoman Bank Museum 45, Railway Museum (Sirkeci
Ottoman Bank Museum 54–5 Station) 45
45, 54–5 Ottoman Empire 38 Rakı 51
Panorama 1453 75, 77 conquest of Ramazan (Ramadan) 43, 57
Pera Museum 15, 44, 85 Constantinople 38, 40, 75 Ramses II, Pharaoh 21
Rahmi Koç Museum 45, end of 39 Religion see Islam
76–7 sultans 39 Religious relics 13
Railway Museum 45 women 15 Republic of Turkey, birth of 39
Sadberk Hanım Museum Research Centre for
45, 93 Anatolian Civilisations 55
Sait Faik Museum 100 P Restaurants 50–1
Sakıp Sabancı Museum Palaces Asian Istanbul and
44, 93 Aynalıkavak Palace 78 Princes’ Islands 101
SALT Beyoğlu 45, 54 Beylerbeyi Palace 35, 92 Bazaar Quarter and
SALT Galata 55, 93 Bucoleon Palace 65 Eminönü 73
SAV Automobile Museum Çirağan Palace 94 Beyoğlu 89
45 Dolmabahçe Palace 7, 11, The Bosphorus 95
Topkapı Palace 6, 10, 32–3, 34, 91 Golden Horn, Fatih and
12–15, 44 Great Palace 40, 60, 65, 75 Fener 79
Whirling Dervish Museum Küçüksu Palace 94 Sultanahmet and the Old
45, 84 Palace of the City 67
Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Porphyrogenitus 47, 77, see also Bars; Cafés
Tör Müzesi 86 78 Review Pavilion 65
Music Topkapı Palace 6, 10, Rihtim Caddesi 93
festivals 56 12–15, 44, 62 Ritter, Otto 98
military marches 84 Yıldız Palace 39, 91 Rock festival 56
venues 51, 88 Pammakaristos, Church of Roman Empire, division of 38
Mustafa III, Sultan 42, 72, 75 the 41, 74, 75 Romanos III Argyros,
Myths, Greek 34, 97 Pamuk, Orhan 84 Emperor 16
Panocrator, Church of the Romanos IV Diogenes,
78 Emperor 41
N Panorama 1453 75, 77 Rowing competition 56
Nakşidil Sultan 15 Paracclesion (St Saviour in Roxelana 14, 15
Nardis Jazz Club 51, 88 Chora) 28, 29 Baths of Roxelana 64
National Palaces Painting Parks and gardens 54 tomb 26, 69
Museum 94 Dolmabahçe Palace Russia
Naval Museum 45, 91 Gardens 33 attacks on Constantinople
Nebuchadnezzar II, King 20 Emirgan Park 54, 47, 56, 94 by 40
Nev Shalom Synagogue 46 Gülhane Park 54, 56 Crimean War 38
Nevizade Sokak 7, 87, 89 Hippodrome 60 Rüstem Paşa, Grand Vizier
New Mosque 71 Miniatürk 78 15, 70
Newspapers 109 Yıldız Park 54 Rüstem Paşa, Mosque 70, 71
Nicaea, Council of 71 Passes
Nightingale, Florence 38, 45, museum 55
62, 97 transport 55, 105 S
Nightlife 55 Passports 106, 107 Sabancı family 44, 93
Nika Riots 16, 40 Pavilion of the Holy Mantle Sadberk Hanım Museum 45,
Nişantaşı 52 (Topkapı Palace) 13 93
Nostalgic Tram 86 Pera Museum 15, 44, 85 Safa Meyhanesi 46
Nurbanu Sultan 15, 30, 42, Pera Palace Hotel 83 Safety 106–7
69, 100 Personal security 106–7 Safıye Sultan 15, 71
Nuruosmaniye Mosque 71, 72 Pharmacies 106 Şah Kulu 19
Nusretiye Mosque 93 Pierre Loti 76 St Anthony of Padua, Church
Pierre Loti Café 76, 77, 79 of 43, 86
Police 107 St George, Church of 42, 54, 78
O Porphyrogenitus, Palace of St George, Monastery of
Obelisk of Theodosius 60 the 47, 77, 78 (Büyükada) 99, 100

St Mary of the Mongols,
Church of 43, 78
St Saviour in Chora, Church
of 11, 28–9, 40, 76
itineraries 6, 77
St Stephen of the Bulgars,
Church of 54, 78
SS Peter and Paul, Church
of 84–5
SS Sergius and Bacchus,
Church of 41, 65
Sait Faik Museum 100
Sakıp Sabancı Museum 44, 93
Salm, Niklas Graf 38
Salon İKSV 51, 88
Salon of the Valide Sultan
(Harem) 14
SALT Beyoğlu 45, 54
SALT Galata 55, 93
Sandal Bedesten (Grand
Bazaar) 23
Sarıyer 35
SAV Automobile Museum 45
Sea of Marmara 54, 77, 90
Sea travel 104, 105
Sea Walls 65
Second-Hand Book Bazaar
54, 72
Self-catering 115–16
Selim I, Sultan 19, 78
Selim II the Sot, Sultan 15,
69, 100
Selim III, Sultan 92, 97
Seljuk Turks 38, 40, 41
Şemsi Ahmet Paşa, Grand
Vizier 97
Şemsi Paşa Mosque 97
Septimius Severus,
Emperor 60, 65
Seraglio Point 60
Serpentine Column 60
Service charges 111
Shoes, removing 43
Shopping 52–3, 110
A Day’s Shopping 69
Beyoğlu 87
things to buy 53
see also Markets and
bazaars
Sidon Sarchophagi 20, 62
Sinan, Koca Mimar 27
Atik Valide Mosque 42
Çemberlitaş Baths 30, 69
Rüstem Paşa Mosque 70
Şemsi Paşa Mosque 97
Sokullu Mehmet Paşa
Mosque 65
Süleymaniye Mosque
Complex 18, 26
tomb 26, 69
Sirkeci Station 62, 98
Railway Museum 45
Soğukçeşme Sokağı 62–3
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa,
Grand Vizier 65
Sokollu Mehmet Paşa
Mosque 65
Souvenirs 53
Spice Bazaar see Egyptian
Bazaar
General Index ❮❮ 123
Spices 53
Spoonmaker’s Diamond 13
State Rooms (Dolmabahçe
Palace) 32
Street entertainers 55
Street food 55
Street names 22
Sublime Porte 12, 65
Sugar Festival 57
Sülemaniye Mosque
Complex 11, 26–7, 42, 69
itineraries 6, 7, 71
Süleyman I, Sultan 14, 15,
38, 39, 62
Baths of Roxelana 64
and Sinan 27
Süleymaniye Mosque 26,
42, 69
tomb 26, 69
Sultan Sarnıç 55
Sultanahmet and the Old
City 60–67
A Day in Sultanahmet 63
bars, cafés and casual
eateries 66
characterful hotels 113–14
map 61
restaurants 67
sights 60–65
Sultanahmet Square 40, 64
Sultans 39
Sultan’s Apartments 14
Sultan’s Bathrooms 32
Sultan’s Loge 19
Süreyya Opera House 51
Swedish Consulate 86
Synagogues
Ahrida Synagogue 78
Nev Shalom Synagogue 46
T Wilhelm II, Kaiser 64.98
Tabanlioğlu 53
Taksim Square 7, 84, 85, 93
Taxis 105
Tea 51
Telephone services 108, 109
Television 109
Terrorism 106
Textiles 53
Theodora, Empress 41
Theodosian Walls 6, 40, 54, 77
Theodosius I, Emperor 38,
69, 76
Obelisk of Theodosius 60
Theodosius II, Emperor 38,
41, 65, 77
Third Courtyard (Topkapı
Palace) 13
Throne Room (Topkapı
Palace) 12
Tickets (transport) 55, 105
Tiled Mosque 100
Tiled Pavilion
(Archaeological Museum)
20, 21, 62
Time zone 110
Topkapı Palace 10, 12–15,
44, 62
itineraries 6, 63
The Tortoise Trainer 85
Tourist information 108
Tours 105, 111
Trams 86, 104, 105
Travel 104–5
Treasury (Topkapı Palace) 13
Troy 21
Tulip Festival 47, 56, 94
Tünel 85, 86
Turhan Hatice Sultan 15,
71
Turkish baths see Baths
Turkish Delight (Lokum) 38,
51, 87
U
Üsküdar 96, 97, 100, 101
V
Valens, Emperor 75
Valide Han (Grand Bazaar) 23
Vallaury, Alexander 45
Vanmour, Jean-Baptiste,
Women Drinking Coffee 15
Vefa Bozacısı 47
Viaud, Julien 76
Vienna, Siege of 38
Visas 106, 107
Voyvoda Caddesi 93
W
Walking 105
Weather 110
Weeping Pillar (Haghia
Sophia) 16
Western Empire 38
Whirling dervishes 45, 51,
72, 84, 85
Wives’ Apartments (Harem) 14
Women
life in the Harem 15
Ottoman 15
World War I 33
Y
Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör
Müzesi 86
Yavuz Selim Mosque 78
Yedikule Castle 76, 77
Yeni Lokanta 50
Yeni Valide Mosque 100
Yeraltı Camii 93
Yıldız Palace 39, 91
Yıldız Park 54
Yoros Castle 35, 94
Young Turks 33
Z
Zeus 34
Zincirli Han (Grand Bazaar)
23
Zoë, Empress 16, 41
Zoodochus Pege 46
Zorlu Centre 51, 53
 124 ❯❯ Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments
Author
Melissa Shales is an award-winning travel
writer. As author, contributor or editor she has
worked on more than 100 guide-books. She
has written travel articles for many
magazines, and was editor of Traveller
magazine. During 2004-06 she was Chairman
of the British Guild of Travel Writers.
The author would like to thank the following
for their generosity, hard work and patience
during the research of this book: the Turkish
Tourist Office, particularly Joanna Marsh in
London and İIginay Altuntaş in Istanbul;
Emma Levine; and Victoria Gooch.
Additional contributor
Terry Richardson
Publishing Director Georgina Dee
Publisher Vivien Antwi
Design Director Phil Ormerod
Editorial Michelle Crane, Rachel Fox, Freddie
Marriage, Fíodhna Ní Ghríofa, Scarlett O’Hara,
Marianne Petrou, Sally Schafer
Revisions Emma Brady, Bharti Karakoti, Terry
Richardson, Aakanksha Singh
Design Richard Czapnik, Sunita Gahir
Commissioned Photography Christopher and
Sally Gable, Rough Guides/Lydia Evans,
Rough Guides/ Roger Mapp, Tony Souter,
Clive Streeter, Francesca Yorke.
Picture Research Phoebe Lowndes, Susie
Peachey, Ellen Root, Oran Tarjan
The publisher would like to thank the
following for their kind permission to
reproduce their photographs:
Cartography Jasneet Arora, Suresh Kumar,
Casper Morris, Simonetta Giori, Dominic
Beddow
DTP Jason Little, George Nimmo
Production Linda Dare
Factchecker Terry Richardson
Proofreader Nikky Twyman
Indexer Helen Peters
Illustrator Chapel Design & Marketing
Picture Credits
Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far;
l-left; r-right; t-top
360istanbul: 53tr.
4Corners: Sime/Anna Serrano 3tl, 24-5, 58-9;
Sime/Stefano Scatà 30-1.
Akdeniz Hatay Sofrasi: Tenten’s Vaio 52cr.
Alamy Images: AgencyWestend61 GmbH/
Martin Siepmann 55bl; blickwinkel 74tl; David
Coleman 21bl, 90tl; Ian G Dagnall 14cla; Oguz
Dikbakan 97tl; Mark Eveleigh 100bl; Tim
Graham 73tr; Hackenberg-Photo-Cologne
27clb; Chris Hellier 92br; Heritage Image
Partnership Ltd/Fine Art Images The capture
of Constantinople by land and sea in 1204.
Miniature from the Historia by William of Tyre,
1460s by Anonymous 38bl; imageBROKER/
Martin Siepmann 98crb; JL Photography 33cr;
Michael Kemp 20bl; ZUMA Press, Inc. 78br.
Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir: 87br.
Asitane: 52tl, 79tr.
Bridgeman Images: National Gallery, London/
The Sultan Mehmet II (1480) by Gentile Bellini
39tr.
Çemberlitaş Hamamı: 30c.
Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, Laledan
Restaurant: 95tr.
Corbis: Guido Cozzi 66cr; Monique Jaques
57b; Lebrecht Music & Arts 97cb; Hans
Lippert 91br; Martin Siepmann 56t; Jane
Sweeney 2tl, 8-9.
Dreamstime.com: 11geiserm 22clb;
Alessandro0770 11tr; Steve Allen 10cl, 47clb;
Alyssand 11b; Anandoart 18bl; Ahmet Ihsan
Ariturk 12-3, 29cr; Frank Bach 35bl; Beriliu
32cl; Murat Besler 62tl, 64tc; Artur Bogacki
20-1; Mikael Damkier 18-9; Ddkg 11cb;
Dinosmichall 40crb; Sergey Dzyuba 2tr,
36-7; Elenatur 14br; Evren Kalinbacak 77cla;
Rodríguez Fontoba 72c; Gavran333 51cla;
Gelia 3tr, 102-3; Nadiia Gerbish 47tr; Ihsan
Gercelman 17cr, 17bl, 28cl, 42bc, 49ca, 70c;
Gozleme 51tr; Özgür Güvenç 43bl, 82b, 99tl;
Patricia Hofmeester 12br; Jasmina 28bl,
28-9, 35cr, 92tl, 94bl; Jim Kelcher 19bl;
Khorunzha 50b; Tetyana Kochneva 27br;
Aleksandra Lande 7cra; Madrugadaverde
22-3; Pavle Marjanovic 29bl; Luciano
Mortula 12bl; Mtr 4cla; Luba V Nel 22cl;
Olha 26br; Pepe14 23tr; Petitfrere 33bc;
Marek Poplawski 71clb; Saaaaa 77bl;
Saiko3p 34-5, 84bc; Sailorr 60tl, 80-1;
Scaliger 10crb, 18crb, 42tl, 75tr, 75b, 76t;
Sergiy87 72tr; Siwsshippo 17tl; Softdreams
12cl; Nikolai Sorokin 32bl; Mikhail
Starodubov 13cr; Svx94 34crb; Tolga Tezcan
69tl, 98tl; Tinamou 10cla; Alexander Tolstykh
40bl; Tomas1111 70t; Vincentstthomas 93tl;
Shuo Wang 16clb; Wedmoscow 51clb;
Zastavkin 61br; Minyun Zhou 7cr; Oleg
Znamenskiy 4crb.
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at
Sultanahmet: 67tr; Paul Thuysbaert 52bc.
Galata House: Bastiani 89cla.

Getty Images: Ayhan Altun 49b; Anadolu
Agency 57tr; Ullstein Bild 39tl; DeAgostini /
Sovereign Theodora and Antonina, Belisarius’
wife, detail from Theodora with her entourage,
mosaic, south wall of the apse, Basilica of San
Vitale, Ravenna, Emilia-Romagna. Italy (6th
century) 41tr; Fuse 27tl; Heritage Images 29tl,
/Fine Art Images/Pera Museum Women
Drinking Coffee (1720s) by Jean-Baptiste
Vanmour 15b, /Hulton Fine Art Collection/
Pera Museum 15c; Angelika Hörschläger
26-7; Image Source 38tc; Izzet Keribar 54crb;
Keystone 39cl; Yoray Liberman 55cla;
Winfield Parks 19crb; Tetra Images 16-7;
Jose Verhelst 43tr.
Giritli Restoran: 67clb.
Homer Books: 87tr.
IKSV: 56clb.
Indigo Istanbul: 88bl.
Istanbul Archaeological Museum: 21cra.
Istanbul Modern: Muhsin Akgun 44tl; Murat
Germen 91t.
Meze by Lemon Tree: 89br.
Nardis Jazz Club: Tasdemir Asan 88tl.
Pera Museum: 44cb; Kaplumbağa Terbiyecisi
(The Tortoise Trainer) (1906) by Osman Hamdi
Bey 85cla.
Robert Harding Picture Library: Tibor
Bognar 54tl; John Henry Claude 4cr; Eurasia
26bl; Stephen Rafferty 22br; Jose Fuste Raga
4b; Karl F. Schofmann 4clb, 32-3c, 33tl; Paul
Seheult 4t; Tetra Images 1, 6cla; Michael
Zegers 4cl.
Sadberk Hanim Museum: 45clb, 93bc.
Salon İKSV: aliguler 53br.
Salt: 45tr, 46tr.
Cover
Front and spine - Robert Harding Picture
Library: Markus Lange.
Back - Dreamstime.com: Lanselot.
Pull Out Map Cover
Robert Harding Picture Library: Markus
Lange.
All other images © Dorling Kindersley
For further information see:
www.dkimages.com
As a guide to abbreviations in visitor information
blocks: Adm = admission charge; DA = disabled
access; D = dinner; L = lunch.
Acknowledgments ❮❮ 125
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 2007
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street,
New York, New York 10014
Copyright 2007, 2016 © Dorling
Kindersley Limited
A Penguin Random House Company
16 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 2009, 2011, 2013,
2015, 2016
All rights reserved. Without limiting the
rights under the copyright reserved above,
no part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form,
or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise),
without the prior written permission of the
copyright owner.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling
Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available
from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN 978-1-4654-4579 -7
SPECIAL EDITIONS OF
DK TRAVEL GUIDES
DK Travel Guides can be purchased
in bulk quantities at discounted prices
for use in promotions or as premiums.
We are also able to offer special
editions and personalized jackets,
corporate imprints, and excerpts from
all of our books, tailored specifically to
meet your own needs.
To find out more, please contact:
in the US
specialsales@dk.com
in the UK
travelguides@uk.dk.com
in Canada
specialmarkets@dk.com
in Australia
penguincorporatesales@
penguinrandomhouse.com.au
 126 ❯❯ Top 10 Istanbul

Phrase Book closed

left
kapalı
sol
ka-pa-luh
sol
right sağ saa
near yakın ya-kuhn
Pronunciation far uzak oo-zak
Turkish uses a Roman alphabet of 29 letters: up yukarı yoo-ka-ruh
8 vowels and 21 consonants. Letters that differ down aşağı a-shah-uh
from the English alphabet are: c, pronounced “j” early erken er-ken
as in “jolly; ç, pronounced “ch” as in “church”; ğ, late geç gech
which lengthens the preceding vowel and is not toilets tuvaletler too-va-let-ler
pronounced; ı, pronounced “uh”; ö, pronounced
“ur” (as in “further”); ş, pronounced “sh” as in “ship”; Shopping
and ü, pronounced “ew” as in “few”. How much Bu kaç boo kach
is this? lira? lee-ra
I would like İstiyorum ees-tee-yo-room
In an Emergency Do you have? Var mı? var muh
Help! İmdat! eem-dat Do you take Kredi kartı kreh-dee kar-tuh
Call a doctor! Bir doktor beer dok-tor credit cards? kabul ka-bool
çağrın! chah-ruhn ediyor eh-dee-yor
Call an Bir ambulans beer am-boo- musunuz? moo-soo-nooz
ambulance! çağrın! lans chah-ruhn What time do Saat kaçta Sa-at kach-ta
Call the police! Polis çağrın! po-lees you open/ açılıyor/ a-chuh-luh-yor/
chah-ruhn close? kapanıyor? ka-pa-nuh-yor
Fire! Yangın! yan-guhn this one bunu boo-noo
Where is the En yakın en ya-kuhn that one şunu shoo-noo
nearest telefon/ teh-leh-fon/ expensive pahalı pa-ha-luh
telephone/ hastane has-ta-neh cheap ucuz oo-jooz
hospital? nerede? neh-reh-deh size (clothes) beden beh-den
size (shoes) numara noo-ma-ra
Communication Essentials white beyaz bay-yaz
Yes Evet eh-vet black siyah see-yah
No Hayır h-‘eye’-uhr red kırmızı kuhr-muh-zuh
Thank you Teşekkür teh-shek-kewr yellow sarı sa-ruh
ederim eh-deh-reem green yeşil yeh-sheel
Please Lütfen lewt-fen blue mavi ma-vee
Excuse me Affedersiniz af-feh-der- brown kahverengi kah-veh-ren-gee
see-neez shop dükkan dewk-kan
Hello Merhaba mer-ha-ba That’s my last Daha fazla da-ha faz-la
Goodbye Hoşça hosh-cha offer eremem veh-reh-mem
kalın ka-luhn
Morning Sabah sa-bah Types of Shop
Afternoon Öğleden ur-leh-den antiques shop antikacı an-tee-ka-juh
sonra son-ra bakery fırın fuh-ruhn
Evening Akşam ak-sham bank banka ban-ka
Yesterday Dün dewn bookshop kitapçı kee-tap-chuh
Today Bugün boo-gewn cake shop pastane pas-ta-neh
Tomorrow Yarın ya-ruhn chemist’s/ eczane ej-za-neh
Here Burada boo-ra-da pharmacy
There Şurada shoo-ra-da greengrocer’s manav ma-nav
What? Ne? neh leather shop derici deh-ree-jee
When? Ne zaman? neh za-man market/bazaar çarşı/pazar char-shuh/pa-zar
Where? Nerede? neh-reh-deh newsstand gazeteci ga-zeh-teh-jee
post office postane pos-ta-neh
Useful Phrases shoe shop ayakkabıcı eye-yak-ka-
Pleased to Memnun mem-noon buh-juh
meet you oldum ol-doom supermarket süpermarket sew-per-mar-ket
Where is/are? Nerede? neh-reh-deh tailor terzi ter-zee
How far is it to? Ne kadar neh ka-dar travel agency seyahat say-ya-hat
uzakta? oo-zak-ta acentesi a-jen-teh-see
Do you speak İngilizce een-gee-leez-jeh
English? biliyor bee-lee-yor Sightseeing
musunuz? moo-soo-nooz castle hisar hee-sar
I don’t Anlamıyorum an-la-muh- church kilise kee-lee-seh
understand yo-room mosque cami ja-mee
Can you Bana yardım ba-na yar-duhm museum müze mew-zeh
help me? edebilir eh-deh-bee-leer palace saray sar-eye
misiniz? mee-see-neez park park park
I don’t want istemiyorum ees-teh-mee- square meydan may-dan
yo room information danışma da-nuhsh-mah
office bürosu bew-ro-soo
Useful Words Turkish bath hamam ha-mam
big büyük bew-yewk
small küçük kew-chewk Transport
hot sıcak suh-jak airport havalimanı ha-va-lee-
cold soğuk soh-ook ma-nuh
good/well iyi ee-yee bus/coach otobüs o-to-bewss
bad kötü kur-tew bus stop otobüs o-to-bewss
open acık a-chuhk durağı doo-ra-uh
 Phrase Book ❮❮ 127

coach station otogar o-to-gar kahve kah-veh coffee

dolmuş dolmuş dol-moosh kara biber ka-ra bee-ber black pepper
fare ücret ewj-ret karışık ka-ruh-shuhk mixed
ferry vapur va-poor kaymak k-‘eye’-mak cream
sea bus deniz deh-neez kıyma kuhy-ma minced meat
otobüsü o-to-bew-sew köfte kurf-teh meatballs
station istasyon ees-tas-yon kuzu eti koo-zoo eh-tee lamb
taxi taksi tak-see lokum lo-koom Turkish delight
ticket bilet bee-let maden suyu ma-den soo-yoo mineral water
ticket office bilet bee-let (fizzy)
gişesi gee-sheh-see meyve suyu may-veh soo-yoo fruit juice
timetable tarife ta-ree-feh midye meed-yeh mussels
patlıcan pat-luh-jan aubergine
Staying in a Hotel peynir pay-neer cheese
Do you have a Boş odanız bosh o-da-nuhz pilav pee-lav rice
vacant room? var mı? var muh? piliç pee-leech roast chicken
double room iki ee-kee şarap sha-rap wine
kişilik kee-shee-leek şeker sheh-ker sugar
bir oda beer o-da su soo water
twin room çift yataklı cheeft ya-tak-luh süt sewt milk
bir oda beer o-da tavuk ta-vook chicken
for one person tek kişilik tek kee-shee-leek tereyağı teh-reh-yah-uh butter
room with banyolu ban-yo-loo tuz tooz salt
a bath bir oda beer o-da yoğurt yoh-urt yoghurt
shower duş doosh yumurta yoo-moor-ta egg
porter komi ko-mee zeytinyağı zay-teen-yah-uh olive oil
key anahtar a-nah-tar
room service oda servisi o-da ser-vee-see Numbers
I have a Rezervas reh-zer-vas- 0 sıfır suh-fuhr
reservation yonum var yo-noom var 1 bir beer
2 iki ee-kee
Eating Out 3 üç ewch
I want to Bir masa beer ma-sa 4 dört durt
reserve ayırtmak eye-uhrt-mak 5 beş besh
a table istiyorum ees-tee-yo-room 6 altı al-tuh
The bill please Hesap lütfen heh-sap lewt-fen 7 yedi yeh-dee
I am a Et yemiyorum et yeh-mee-yo- 8 sekiz seh-keez
vegetarian room 9 dokuz doh-kooz
restaurant lokanta lo-kan-ta 10 on on
waiter garson gar-son 11 on bir on beer
menu menü men-oo 12 on iki on ee-kee
wine list şarap sha-rap 13 on üç on ewch
listesi lees-teh-see 14 on dört on durt
breakfast kahvaltı kah-val-tuh 15 on beş on besh
lunch öğle ur-leh 16 on altı on al-tuh
yemeği yeh-meh-ee 17 on yedi on yeh-dee
dinner akşam ak-sham 18 on sekiz on seh-keez
yemeği yeh-meh-ee 19 on dokuz on doh-kooz
starter meze meh-zeh 20 yirmi yeer-mee
main course ana yemek a-na yeh-mek 21 yirmi bir yeer-mee beer
dessert tatlı tat-luh 30 otuz o-tooz
rare az pişmiş az peesh-meesh 40 kırk kuhrk
well done iyi ee-yee 50 elli eh-lee
pişmiş peesh-meesh 60 altmış alt-muhsh
glass bardak bar-dak 70 yetmiş yet-meesh
bottle şişe shee-sheh 80 seksen sek-sen
knife bıçak buh-chak 90 doksan dok-san
fork çatal cha-tal 100 yüz yewz
spoon kaşık ka-shuhk 200 iki yüz ee-kee yewz
1,000 bin been
Menu Decoder 100,000 yüz bin yewz been
balık ba-luhk fish 1,000,000 bir milyon beer meel-yon
bira bee-ra beer
bonfile bon-fee-leh fillet steak Time
buz booz ice one minute bir dakika beer da-kee-ka
çay ch-eye tea one hour bir saat beer sa-at
çorba chor-ba soup half an hour yarım saat ya-ruhm sa-at
dana eti da-na eh-tee veal day gün gewn
dondurma don-door-ma ice cream week hafta haf-ta
ekmek ek-mek bread month ay eye
et et meat year yıl yuhl
fırında fuh-ruhn-da roast Sunday pazar pa-zar
fıstık fuhs-tuhk pistachio nuts Monday pazartesi pa-zar-teh-see
gazoz ga-zoz fizzy drink Tuesday salı sa-luh
hurma hoor-ma dates Wednesday çarşamba char-sham-ba
içki eech-kee alcohol Thursday perşembe per-shem-beh
incir een-jeer figs Friday cuma joo-ma
ızgara uhz-ga-ra charcoal-grilled Saturday cumartesi joo-mar-teh-see
 128 ❯❯ Map Index

Town Index Heading

Ağa Hamamı Sokağı K5 Emin Sinan Hamamı Kurt Ağa Çeşmesi Selmanıpak Caddesi Y2
Akbıyık Caddesi R5 Sokağı N5 Caddesi J3 Şeref Efendi Sokağı Q1
Akbıyık Değirmeni Eski Çiçekçi Sokağı J5 Liva Sokağı L5 Sıraselviler Caddesi L5
Sokağı R6 Eski Toptaşı Caddesi Y4 Macar Kardeşler Şışhane Caddesi J1
Akdeniz Caddesi C4 Evliya Çelebi Caddesi F2 Caddesi C3 Sobacılar Caddesi P1
Aksakal Sokağı Q6 Fenerli Kapı Sokağı R6 Mahmutpaşa Yokuşu P3 Soğukçeşme Sokağı R4
Akşemsettin Caddesi C3 Fethiye Caddesi K3 Manyasızade Caddesi K3 Somuncu Sokağı L5
Alaca Hamam Fetva Yokuşu Sokağı M1 Meclisi Mebusan Su Terazisi Sokağı Q5
Caddesi P2 Fevzi Paşa Caddesi J3 Caddesi H1 Sülemaniye Caddesi M2
Alayköşkü Caddesi R3 Fuat Paşa Caddesi M2 Melez Sokağı E1 Sultan Çeşme Caddesi J2
Alemdar Caddesi L4 Gedikpaşa Caddesi N5 Mercan Caddesi N3 Sultan Mektebi
Amiral Tafdil Sokağı R6 Gedikpaşa Camii Meşrutiyet Caddesi J5 Sokağı P3
Ankara Caddesi Q2 Sokağı N4 Mimar Kemalettin Sunullan Efendı
Arapzade Ahmet Gevgili Sokağı K2 Caddesi Q2 Sokağı K1
Sokağı M6 Hakimiyeti Milliye Mimar Mehmet Ağa Tahmis Caddesi P1
Arasta Çarşısı R5 Caddesi X3 Caddesi R5 Tak-ı Zafer Caddesi L4
Arslan Sokağı J4 Haliç Caddesi D2 Mimar Sinan Caddesi M1 Tarakçılar Caddesi N3
Aşir Efendi Caddesi P2 Hamalbaşı Caddesi J4 Mıthat Paşa Caddesi M4 Tarlabaşı Caddesi L4
Asma Kandil Sokağı N4 Hamidiye Caddesi Q2 Muradiye Caddesi Q2 Tatlıcı Sokağı J2
At Meydanı Sokağı Q5 Harem Sahil Yolu W5 Mürsel Paşa Caddesi L2 Tavaşi Çeşme Sokağı M5
Atatürk Bulvarı D5 Hasır Cılar Caddesi N1 Mustafa Kemal Tavu Khane Sokağı Q5
Ayan Sokağı K2 Hattat İzzet Sokağı D3 Caddesi D6 Taya Hatun Sokağı R2
Ayasofya Meydanı R4 Haydar Caddesi D3 Nakil Bent Sokağı Q6 Tersane Caddesi F3
Bab-ı Ali Caddesi Q4 Hoca Çakır Caddesi J2 Necatibey Caddesi H2 Terzihane Sokağı Q5
Babıhümayun Hoca Hanı Sokağı P2 Nuh Kuyusu Caddesi Y4 Tibbiye Caddesi Y5
Caddesi R4 Horhor Caddesi D4 Nuruosmaniye Ticarethane Sokağı Q4
Bahriye Caddesi F1 Hüdavendigar Caddesi P4 Tıyatro Caddesi M5
Bakırcılar Caddesi M3 Caddesi R2 Nuruosmaniye Sokağı P4 Tomtom Kaptan
Balat Vapur İskelesi Hükümet Konağı Okçu Musa Caddesi F2 Sokağı K6
Caddesi L2 Sokağı Q3 Okçular Başı Caddesi M4 Topkapı-Edirnekapı
Bali Paşa Yokuşu M5 İbadeth Ane Sokağı D4 Ömer Hayyam Caddesi B2
Bankacılar Sokağı P1 İbni Kemal Caddesi Q2 Caddesi J4 Tüccarı Caddesi D6
Besim Ömer Paşa İbrahim Paşa Yokuşu M5 Ord Prof Cemil Bilsel Tülcü Sokağı N5
Caddesi M3 İmran Öktem Caddesi N1 Tunus Bağı Caddesi X4
Boğaziçi Köprüsü Caddesi Q5 Ördekli Bakkal Sokağı M6 Turabi Baba Sokağı E2
Çevre Yolu A1 İnönü Caddesi H1 Ordu Caddesi M4 Türbedar Sokağı P4
Boğazkesen Caddesi K6 İshak Paşa Caddesi S5 Örücüler Caddesi N2 Türkelı Caddesi E6
Boyacı Ahmet Sokağı P4 İslambol Caddesi C3 Oyuncu Sokağı R6 Türkgücü Caddesi K6
Büyük Haydar İsmetiye Caddesi N2 Özbekler Sokağı P5 Türkocağı Caddesi Q3
Efendi Sokağı M4 Istanbul-Ankara-Devlet Paşa Hamamı Sokağı J2 Turnacıbaşı Sokağı K5
Büyük Postane Yolu X6 Paşa Limanı Caddesi Y1 Üçler Sokağı P5
Caddesi Q2 İstasyon Arkası Pertev Paşa Sokağı N5 Uncular Caddesi X2
Büyük Selim Paşa Sokağı R2 Peykhane Sokağı P4 Üniversite Caddesi M3
Caddesi Y4 İstiklal Caddesi K5 Piyerloti Caddesi P5 Üsküdar Sahil Yolu W3
Çadırcılar Caddesi N3 İtfaiye Caddesi D4 Prof Kazım İsmail Üsküdar-Harem
Caferiye Sokağı R4 Kabasakal Caddesi R5 Gürkan Caddesi Q3 Sahil Yolu W4
Cağaloğlu Yokuşu Q3 Kadırga Limanı Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Uzunçarşı Caddesi N2
Çakmakçılar Yokuşu N3 Caddesi N5 Caddesi M2 Vakıf Hanı Sokağı P2
Cami Meydanı Kadir Has Caddesi D2 Püskülcü Sokağı K1 Vasıf Çınar Caddesi N2
Sokağı P1 Kalpakçılar Başı Ragıp Gümüşpala Vatan Caddesi B3
Cankurtaran Caddesi R6 Caddesi N4 Caddesi E3 Vezirhanı Caddesi P4
Çatal Çeşme Sokağı Q4 Karacaoğlan Sokağı X2 Rami Kışla Caddesi A1 Vezneciler Caddesi E5
Çavuşdere Caddesi Y3 Kasımpaşa Hasköy Refik Saydam Caddesi J5 Vodina Caddesi L2
Cemal Nadir Sokağı Q3 Caddesi D1 Reşadiye Caddesi Q1 Voyvoda Caddesi F3
Cıbali Caddesi D3 Katip Sinan Camii Sabuncu Hanı Sokağı P2 Yağlıkçılar Caddesi N3
Çiçek Pazarı Sokağı P2 Caddesi P5 Sabunhanesı Sokağı M1 Yalı Köşkü Caddesi Q1
Çifte Gelinler Kemeraltı Caddesi F3 Şadırvan Sokağı S6 Yavuz Selim Caddesi C3
Caddesi M5 Kennedy Caddesi S6 Şahkulu Bostanı Yeni Cami Caddesi P2
Çırçır Caddesi D4 Keresteci Hakkı Sokağı J6 Yeni Çarşı Caddesi K5
Cumhuriyet Caddesi Y2 Sokağı R6 Sahne Sokağı J4 Yeni Devir Sokağı M4
Darüşşaf Aka Caddesi C3 Kesme Kaya Caddesi J2 Saka Mehmet Sokağı P2 Yeniçeriler Caddesi N4
Defterdar Yokuşu K6 Kılıççılar Sokağı P3 Sakızağacı Caddesi K4 Yerebatan Caddesi R4
Demır Hısar Caddesi K1 Kırımı Çeşme Sokağı B1 Salma Tomruk Yıldırım Caddesi L2
Divanyolu Caddesi Q4 Klod Farer Caddesi P5 Caddesi J3 Yolcuzade İskender
Doğancılar Caddesi W3 Küçük Langa Caddesi D6 Sancaklar Sokağı L3 Caddesi F2
Dönmedolap Sokağı X4 Kulaksız Caddesi E1 Savaklar Caddesi J1 Yolgeçen Bostanı
Dr Eyüp Aksoy Kumbaracı Yokuşu J6 Şehit Mehmet Paşa Sokağı B4
Caddesi Y5 Kumrulu Yokuşu L5 Yokuşu P5 Zeynep Sultan Camii
Draman Caddesi J2 Kürkçü Çeşmesi Şehzade Başı Caddesi D4 Sokağı R4
Ebussuut Caddesi Q3 Sokağı K2 Selami Ali Caddesi Y2 Zülüflü Sokağı K2