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FOREWORD
Each Part/Section of the Handbook of Textile Testing covers the methods of test relating to that
group. It is, however, felt essential to bring out fundamental and general principles governing the
handbook together with common aspects applicable to this part.
Next to food, clothing is the essential need for our day to day living. Ancient man took to
leaves and then to skins of animals to protect himself. Later, with his improved knowledge, he
started using straw after matting the same. Thereafter, he discovered natural fibres from plants
and with ingenuity spun yarns to weave cloth.
Cotton was the predominant fibre used for clothing. With increased cultivation of this fibre and
for mass production, the Industrial Revolution started with ‘spinning jenny’ in the 18th century.
The need was to get better productivity and uniformity of the cloth. Cotton being cultivated
worldover varies due to soil conditions, climatic conditions, water, etc. It was thus necessary to
see that cotton from various places of the same region was mixed, to achieve the objective of
higher productivity on machines and thereby, the conformity to quality.
It was necessary for identification, grading and testing of the fibres ( cotton ) to homogenize the
mixing and run the machines. Thus, started the testing of fibres. Initially, it was by visual
examination and expertise of the personnel, which were very subjective. Later, to have more
realistic results, objective tests were attempted to define the characteristics of the fibre.
The rapid industrialization led to discovery of man-made fibres like regenerated cellulosic fibres to
augment the needs of the machines and the growing demand of cloth with the population. This
took place after the first world war as the war created a demand in the market. Later,. with
technological improvement, man thought of creating better textile fibres for better durability of
cloth and for specialised end uses. So inventions of fibres like nylon, polyester, acrylic, aramid,
etc, took place. All these needed testing of raw products, for uniformity during fabric production
and thereafter for finishing of fabrics.
The fibres are now broadly classified as natural fibres like cotton, wool, jute, etc, and man-made
fibres like rayon, nylon, polyester, acrylic, etc.
The methods of test included in this part for testing and grading of textile fibres are based on the
current national and international practices. This part of the Handbook refers to the testing of
fibres - both natural and man-made. The methods of test for filaments - natural and man-made
are covered in Part 2 of the Handbook ( under preparation ) .
Standards included in this part have been brought out by Physical Methods of Test Sectional
Committee ( TXD 1 ); Cotton and Cotton Products Sectional Committee ( TXD 2 ); Jute and
Jute Products Sectional Committee ( TXD 3 ); Wool and Wool Products Sectional Committee
( TXD 4 ); Chemical Methods of Test Sectional Committee ( TXD 5 ); Silk, Man-Made Fibre and
Products Sectional Committees ( TXD 6 and TXD 28 ); and Coir and Coir Products Sectional
Committee ( TXD 25 ).
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
INTRODUCTION
BIS Handbook of Textile Testing (SP 15 : 1981) - assist the textile students, educational
was first published in 1982and has been taken and research institutions in the selection
up for revision to incorporate new standards of the methods of test for effective
which have come out after its publication. studies and research.
Opportunity has also been taken to incorporate
the new versions of the standards which have Representation of information in the Handbook
since been revised, to meet the popular demand. has been organized in the following manner:
The Handbook is now being brought out in four
parts wherein standards have been grouped on a) Identification and grading of various
the basis of application and use: textile fibres and yarns;
Part 1 Testing and Grading of Textile Fibres b) Quantitative chemical analysis and tests
for various physical and chemical charac-
Part 2 Testing of Yarns and Fabrics (Exclud- teristics of textile fibres;
ing Colour Fastness)
4 Identification and strength of various
Part 3 Testing of Textile Products Other dyestuffs used for textiles;
than Yarns and Fabrics
d) Colour fastness properties of coloured
Part 4 Identification and Testing of Dye- textiles towards various agencies such as
stuffs and Their Colour Fastness on light, washing, heat, perspiration, hot
Textiie Materials water, dry cleaning, etc;
The Handbook is basically a compilation of e) Code of practice for stains removal from
various Indian Standards on Methods of Test textiles and clothings;
published by various Sectional Committees
under Textile Division Council. There are more f ) Tests for various physical and chemical
than 300 standards covering a wide range of characteristics of yarns and fabrics such
physical and chemical characteristics of textiles as strength parameters, dimensional sta-
besides compilation from the product standards bility, water repellency, soil resistance,
covering methods of test. Such methods of test flame resistance, flammability, biological
for which separate standards have not been degradation, etc;
published and which are included in the pro- g) Tests for various sizing and finishing
duct specifications: these methods of test have treatments;
been extracted from these product standards
and included in the present version of the h) Care labelling and positioning of labels in
Handbook wherever appropriate. The methods garments; and
of test included in the Handbook would now be
able to satisfy the requirement of various j) Tests for ropes and cordages, coir pro-
sectors of textile industry like testing laborato- ducts, textile floor coverings, industrial
ries, research institutions, educational institu- textiles, fishing gear materials, hosiery
tions in as far as the testing of the products products, tapes, webbings, narrow fabrics
like handloom and khadi, powerloom, hosiery, and aerospace textiles.
carpets, readymade garments, dyestuffs, textile
auxiliaries, ropes and cordage, industrial tex- Every effort has been made to make the various
tiles, aerospace textiles, etc is concerned. parts and sections self-contained but in certain
cases relevant provisions have been extracted
The objects of the Handbook are to: and reproduced. In all such cases, for detailed
- give the user fist-hand information on guidance, reference should be made to indivi-
all published national standards on dual standards and in case of any contradiction
methods of test for textile and their use; observed between the Indian Standards and
those reproduced herein; the provisions of the
- help the various users to establish a former should be considered accurate. The need
suitable quality assurance system in the of Handbook is to make it a self-contained as a
organization; reference document, whereas on the other hand
- serve as a guide for the ordinary consu- the need is to keep it less voluminous. The
mer to know what characteristics of present version of the Handbook is the judicious
textile are important for its best use and choice with respect to the two aspects referred
care; and above.
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
CONTENTS
Section Page
. ..
FOREWORD 111
INTRODUCTION V
SECTION A : GENERAL
( vii)
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
Section Page
SECTION 0 : DETERMINATION OF PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF
TEXTILE FIBRES
( viii )
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
Section Page
SECTION A
GENERAL
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
CONDITIONING OF TEXTILES
( Source : IS 6359 : 1971 )
Most of the textiles being hygroscopic in nature, laboratories, it is necessary to standardize the
the relative humidity and temperature of the humidity and temperature conditions and the
atmosphere affect their physical and mechanical procedure by which the textile material may be
properties appreciably. In order that reliable brought to the moisture equilibrium before
comparisons may be made between different testing.
materials and products and between different
PART 1, SECTION A/ 1 3
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) :1989
( see4.1) and, if pre-conditioning is also to be 5.3 Expose the specimen or sample ( already
carried out, find the relative humidity and tem- pre-conditioned, if so required) in the standard
perature of the pre-conditioning cabinet or atmosphere in such a way as to expose, as far as
room to check whether the conditions meet the possible, all portions of the material to the
specified values of relative humidity and tem- atmosphere until the moisture equilibrium is
perature or not. If the conditions are not as attained ( see Notes 1 and 2).
required, make adjustments to bring them to
the desired limits of temperature and humidity. NOTES
5.1.1 If both pre-conditioning and conditioning 1 In case the material received is in package
are prescribed in the test method or the speci- form, it is preferable to prepare test specimens in
fication for the material, proceed as given loose or open form so that all portions get uniformly
in 5.2 and 5.3, and if only conditioning has been exposed to the pre-conditioning or conditioning
prescribed, omit 5.2. atmospheres. For example, in case of yarn in the form
of cones or cheeses, suitable skeins may be prepared
5.2 Expose the specimen or sample in the for conditioning.
atmosphere for pre-conditioning in such a way 2 For guidance purposes, it may be noted that the
as to expose, as far as possible, all portions of minimum time required for the various types of
the material to the atmosphere until the mois- textile materials having moisture regain value of less
ture equilibrium is attained ( see Note 1 than 5 percent is about 6 hours to reach moisture
equilibrium while for those having moisture regain
under 5.3 ). values of more than 5 percent it is 24 hours.
The test is used for eliminating unnecessary ( obtained by adding appropriate commercial
and undesirable variations in testing procedure moisture regain to oven-dry weight of the
for the determination of correct invoice weight material ) of all wool yarns and fabrics.
This gives the methods in which the laboratory estimate the bulk composition, for example,
test samples are obtained by the combination the proportions of different fibres in a blend,
of numberous small portions each drawn from but it is not appropriate in cases where varia-
a different part of the laboratory bulk sample. bility is important, for example, in the determi-
Therefore, any results obtained on test specr- nation of pH where the local value is signih-
mens from these samples will estimate the cant, or in the determination of fungicides,
mean level in the laboratory bulk sample but where a high value in one area of the material
will not indicate the variability of level from does not compensate for low value elsewhere.
portion to portion of the laboratory bulk Also, it may not be appropriate for use in
sample. Consequently it is appropriate to use determination of commercial mass value.
this method in cases where it is desired to
9
SP 15 ( Part 1) :1989
In textile trade and industry the measurement national as well as international level. There-
of various characteristics plays an important fore, this has been issued for the guidance of
role in the analysis, quality control, sale- users for changing overto SI system, with a
purchase and checking up for compliance to view to unifying the set-up of units in various
the standard. For easy understanding and inter- facets of textile trade and industry. Wherever
pretation of figures by different interests, it the SI units differ from metric units, the metric
becomes essential to changeover to a unified units with which the industry is familiary have
set of units which have been accepted at also been given.
,
Table 1 ( Concluded)
To round off a value is to retain a certain num- reporting or for drafting specifications, it is
ber of figures, counted from the left, and drop the necessary to prescribe rules for ‘rounding off
others so as to give a more rational form to the numerical values as also for deciding on ‘the
value. As the result of a test or of a calculation number of figures’ to be retained.
is generally rounded off for the purpose of
values. However, if rounding off is carried out the fineness 10 become 710 and 720 respec-
in accordance with the rules stated in 3.1 in one tively.
step ( see 3.3 ), the sum and average of the
rounded values would be more nearly correct 3.2 Rounding Off to Fineness Other than Unity
than in the previous cases ( see Annex A ).
In case the fineness of rounding is not unity,
3.1 Rounding Off to Unit Fineness but, say, it is n, the given value shall be rounded
In case the fineness of rounding is unity in the off according to the following rule:
last place retained, the following rules shall be Rule IV - When rounding to a fineness n,
followed:
other than unity, the given value shall be
divided by n. The quotient shall be rounded
Rule I - When the figure next ‘beyond the
off to the nearest whole number in accor-
last figure or place to be retained is less
dance with the rules laid down in 3.1 for unit
than 5, the figure in the last place retained
fineness of rounding. The number so obtain-
shall be left unchanged.
ed that is, the rounded quotient, shall then
Rule II-When the figure next beyond the be multiplied by n to get the final rounded
last figure or place to be retained is more value.
than 5 or is 5 followed by any figures other
than zeros, the figure in the last place Some examples illustrating the application of
retained shall be increased by 1. Rule IV are given in Table 2.
Rule III - When the figure next beyond the* NOTE 4 - The rules for rounding off a value to any
last figure or place to be retained is 5 alone fineness of rounding, II, may also be stated in line
with those for unit fineness of rounding ( see 3.1) as
or 5 followed by zeros only, the figure in the follows:
last place retained shall be (a) increased by
1 if it is odd, and (b) left unchanged if even Divide the given value by n so that an integral quo-
tient and a remainder are obtained. Round off the
( zero would be regarded as an even number value in the following manner:
for this purpose ).
a) If the remainder is less than n/2, the value shall be
Some examples illustrating the application of rounded down such that the rounded value is an
Rules I to III are given in Table 1. integral multiple of n.
b) If the remainder is greater than n/2, the value shall
3.1.1 The rules for rounding laid down in 3.1 be rounded up such that the rounded value is an
may be extended to apply when the fineness of integral multiple of n.
rounding is O-10, 10, 100,l 000, etc. For exam-
c) If the remainder is exactly equal to n/2, that
ple, 2.43 when rounded to fineness O-10 becomes rounded value shall be chosen which is an integral
2.40. Similarly, 712 and 715 when rounded to multiple of 2n.
14 HANDBOOK QF .TJZXTILBTESTING
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
Table 2 Examples of Rounding Off Values written as 0.5 and not as 0.6 which is obtained
to Fineness Other than Unit as a result of successive roundings to 0.550,
( Clause 3.2 ) 0.55, and 0.6. It is obvious that the most precise
value available is nearer to 0.5 and note to 0.6
and that the error involved is less in the former
,Value Fineness of Quotient Rounded Final case. Similarly, O-650 1 shall be rounded off to
Rounding, Quotient Rounded 0.7 in one step and not successively to 0.650,
n Value 0.65 and O-6, since the most precise value
(1) (2) (3)= (4) available here is nearer to 0.7 than to O-6 ( see
(l)/(2) (2$ ;> also Table 1 ).
1’647 8 0’2 8’239 8 1’6
2’70 0’2 13’5 14 2’8 NOTE 5 - In those cases where a final rounded vaiue
2’496 8 0’3 8’322 7 8 2’4 terminates with 5 and it is intended to use it in fur-
1’75 0’5 3’5 4 2’0 ther computation, it may be helpful to use a ‘+’ or ‘-’
sign after the final 5 to indicate whether a subsequent
0’687 21 0’07 9’817 3 10 0’70 rounding should be up or down. Thus 3’214 7 may be
0’875 0’07 12’5 12 0’84 written as 3’215- when rounded to a fineness of
325 50 6’5 6 3x10” rounding 0’001. If further rounding to three signifi-
cant figures is desired, this number would be rounded
1025 50 20’5 20 10x 10” down and written as 3’21 which is in error by less
than half a unit in the last place; otherwise, rounding
of 3’215 would have yielded 3’22 which is in error by
3.2.1 Fineness of rounding other than 2 and 5 more than half a unit in the last place. Similarly,
is seldom called for in practice. For these cases, 3’205 4 could be written as 3’205+ when rounded to 4
significant figures. Further rounding to 3 significant
the rules for rounding may be stated in simpler figures would yield the value as 3’21.
form as follows:
In case the final 5 is obtained exactly, ii would be
4 Rounding off to fineness 50, 5, 0.5, 0.05, indicated by leaving the 5 as such without using ‘+’
O-005, etc. or ‘-’ sign. In subsequent rounding the 5 would then
be treated in accordance with Rule III.
Rule V - When rounding to 5 units, the
given value shall be doubledand rounded 4. NUMBER OF FIGURES TO BE RETAINED
\ off to twice the required fineness of
rounding in accordance with 3.1.1. The 4.0 Pertinent to the application of the rules for
value thus obtained shall be halved to get rounding off is the underlying decision as to the
the final rounded value. number of figures that should be retained in a
given problem. The original values requiring to
For example, in rounding off 975 to the be rounded off may arise as a result ofa test, an
nearest 50, 975 is doubled giving 1 950 analysis or a measurement, in other words,
which becomes 2 000 when rounded off to experimental results, or they may arise from
the nearest 100; when. 2 000 is divided computations involving several steps.
by 2, the resulting number 1 000 is the
rounded value of 975. 4.1 Experimental Results
b) Rounding off to fineness 20, 2, 0.2, 0.02, The number of figures to be retained in an
0.002, etc. experimental result, either for the purpose of
reporting or for guiding the formulation of
Rule VI - When rounding to 2 units, the specifications will depend on the significance of
given value shall be halved and rounded the figures in the value. This aspect has been
off to half the required lkeness of round: discussed in detail under 4 of IS 787 : 1956
ing in accordance with 3.1. The value ‘Guide for inter-conversion of values from one
thus obtained shall theri be doubled to system of units to another’ to which reference
get the kal rounded value. may be made for obtaining helpful guidance.
For example, in rounding off 2.70 to the 4.2 Computations
nearest O-2, 2.70 is halved giving 1.35
which becomes 1.4 when rounded off to In computations involving values of different
the nearest 0.1; when 1.4 is doubled, the accuracies, the problem as to how many figures
resulting number 2.8 is the rounded should be retained at various steps assumes a
value. special significance as it would affect the accu-
3.3 Successive Rounding racy of the final result. The rounding off error
will, in fact, be injected into computation every
The final rounded value shall be obtained from time an arithmetical operation is performed.
the most precise value available in one step It is, therefore, necessary to carry out the com-
only and not from a series of successive putation in such a manner as would obtain
roundings. For example? the value O-549 9, when accurate results consistent with the accuracy of
rounded to one significant figure, shall be the data in hand.
The difference, 603.4, shall be repor ted as such, Since the numerator here is correct to three
significant figures, the denominator shall be
Examp le 4
taken as dT== l-414. Then,
Required to evaluate 2/23 - J%@ correct
to five significant figures. 35.2
- - 24.89
Sin.ce 2/2m = 1587 450 79 1.414
2/2X= l-577 973 38 and the result shall be reported as 24.9.
and three significant figures at the left will dis- Example 6
appear on subtraction, the number of significant
figures retained in each value shall be 8 as Required to evaluate 3*78x/5*6, assuming that
shown below: the denominator is true to only two significant
1.587 450 8 figures.
1.577 973 4
Since the denominator here is correct to two
0.009 477 4 significant figures, each number in the numera-
tor would be taken up to three significant
The result, 0.009 477 4, shall be reported as figures. Thus,
such ( or as 9.477 4 x 10-s) .
3.78 x 3.14 = 2.08 .
Example 5
5.7
Required to evaluate 35*2/2/zgiven that the
numerator is correct to its last figure. The result shall, however, be reported as 2.1.
ANNEX A
( czause 3.0 )
VALIDITY OF RULES
A-l. The validity of the rules for rounding off random distribution of figures occurs, the num-
numerical values, as given in 3.1, may be seen ber ‘rounded up’ and the number ‘rounded down’
from the fact that to every number that is to be will be nearly equal. Therefore, the sum and the
‘rounded down’ in accordance with Rule I, average of the rounded values will be more
there corresponds a number that is to be nearly correct than would be the case if all
‘rounded up’ in accordance with Rule II. Thus, were rounded in the same direction, that is,
these two rules establish a balance between either all ‘up’ or all ‘down’.
rounding ‘down’ and ‘up’ for all numbers other
than those that fall exactly midway between
two alternatives. In the latter case, since the NOTE 8 -From purely logical considerations a given
figure to be dropped is exactly 5, Rule III, value could have as well be rounded to an odd num-
which specifies that the value should be rounded ber ( and not an even number as in Rule III > when
the discarded figures fall exactly midway between two
to its nearest even number, implies that round- alternatives. But there is a practical aspect to the
ing shall be ‘up’ when the preceding figures are matter. The rounding off value to an even number
1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and ‘down’ when they are 0, 2, 4, 6, facilitates the division of the rounded value by 2 and
8. Rule III hence advocates a similar balance the result of such division gives the correct rounding
between rounding ‘up’ and ‘down’ (see also Note off half the original unrounded value. Besides, the
( rounded) even values may generally be exactly
8 ). This implies that if the above rules are divisible by many more numbers, even as well as odd
followed in a large group of values in which than are the ( rounded 1 odd values.
SECTION B
The methods described in this standard are is desirable, therefore, to have authentic
simple and are meant for a rapid identification samples of fibres available for reference pur-
of the more common textile fibres of commerce. poses and the analyst should first make himself
These methods are expected to be especially familiar with the behaviour of authentic
useful to organizations with only limited testing samples before making an attempt to identify
facilities. The methods prescribed here also unknown samples. The general appearance and
invlove the use of a microscope, its value in colour of the material frequently indicate
the identification of fibres cannot be over- whether more than one type of fibre is present,
emphasized. When one is available, it should and special care should be taken with fibres of
always be used for the examination of longi- different colours.
tudinal and cross-sectional views which are
often used in confirmatory tests. Successful
identification of fibres depends on experience Microphotographs of some important fibres are
and familiarity with textile fibres generally. It given in Fig. 1 to Fig. 11.
3) Leaf Fibres - Manila Hemp and Sisal iii) Polyvinyl Chloride - Acrylonitrile
- Vinyon N, Dyne1
4) Fruit or Nut-Fibres - Coir
iv) Polyacrilonitrile ( Acrylic fibres )
b) Animal Fibres ( Natural Protein Fibres ) - Orlon, Acrilan
v) Polyvinyl Alcohol - Vinylon,
1) Wool and Chlorinated Wool Kuralon
2) Silk vi) Polystyrene and Copolymers --
Styroflex, Polyfil, etc
i) Cultivated Silk - raw, degummed
and weighted vii) Polyvinylidene Chloride and Copo-
lymers - Saran, Velon
ii) Tasar or Tussah Silk
4) Polyolefins
c) Mineral Fibres
i) Polyethylene .- Polythene
.l) Asbestos
ii) Polypropylene - Reevon
Group 2 - Man-Made Fibres
Group 3 - Inorganic Fibres
a) Regenerated Fibres
a) Glass
1) Cellulosic - Viscose, Cuprammonium,
Cellulose Acetate ( secondary and b) Metal
PART 1, SECTION B/ 1 21
L.._
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
FIG. l(a) RAW COTTON -- LONGI’KJDINAL VIEW FIG. I(b) RAW C~,~TON -- CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW
( x 500 ) ( x 750)
FIG. 2(a) MERCERIZED COTTON - LONGITUDINAL FIG. 2(b) MERCERIZED COTTON - CROSS-
VIEW SECTIONAL VIEW
( x 500 ) ( x 750)
_...
FIG. 8(e) CRIMPED VISCOSE - LONGITUDINAL FIG. 8(f) IN~ZATED VISCOSE - LONGITUDINAL
VIEW VIEW
(x1500) ( x 1000)
“,.,
F1G.9(a) ACRYLIC, BEAN SHAPB -LONGITUDINAL FIG. 9(b) ACRYLIC, BEAN SHAPB -- CROSS-
VIBW SECTIONAL VIEW
( x 500) ( x 500)
28 HANDBOOK Ok:TBXTILETESTING
SP 15( Part1):1989
_.
30
HANDBOOK OF TEXTILETESTING
SP 1s ( Part 1) : 1989
ANNEX A
( Clause6.1 )
PRELlMINARY IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES
Burning Test
I
I I I I I
Burns, &ad formed Melts and burns Burns, ‘no bead Burns slowly, lerives black Burn:, Ash Chars, Ash Do not burn
I formed, burnt fltiy ash, smell of skeleton skeleton I
I I POLYEkHYLENE -uauer
_ smell burnt hair Bdrnt hair smell I ., /
Round hard Melts’and burns, Burns, black I ALGINATE Glow; but Melts to clear
bead, shrinks shrinks from flame bead, smell of CELLULOSIC FIBRES WOOL. CHLORINATED WEIGHLED SILK reta& hard bead
from flame irregular black bead acetic acid I WOOL, SItK ( RAW original form
I Floatation in alcohol DEGUMMED), TUSSAH
I ( 92 percent) SILK, REGENER.~TED
GL!4SS
NYLON TERYLENE, CEL;ULOSE ASBASTOS
DACRON, ACETATE / PROTEIN FTRRES
Pe Ce, RHOVYL, I ,
I
I
I I 1
SiAks Fldats No blacken&g possibly Blackening Light to dark
I I ( light grey ) Wool and chlorinated greyish brown
Phloroglucinol and hydrochloric acid Shirlastain A SILK AND TUSSAH SILK wool and hair REGENERATED
I PROTEIN
Cold cone hyd!-ochloric acid Appearance in FIBRES
I_
Colourless Magenta ’
Pink Yellow
’ to’ light I methylsalicylate
AKUND brown I I
I Twis; on Floatation in KAPOK Dissolves Doks not
Twist on drying methyl CULTIVATED dissolve Med?llated NO MED’ULLA
drying I salicylate SILK TUSSAH and Transparent wool
I SILK Kempy Hairs
ClockLise Adti- / -1 I
RAW FLAX clockwise Floats Sinks Floatation in
COIR JUTE, MESTA methyl-
-1 7 AND ROSELLAS salicylate
No !wist Variable Clockwisb Cuprammonium I
VISCOSE, twist / hydroxide
CUPRAMMONIUM COTTON Mean staple I Floats Silks
RAYON length of I MOHAIR
I I
I ultimatejibres Dissolves Does not Floatation in CAMEL HAIR
Shirla;tain A I HEMP dissolve alcohol ALPACA
/ I I
&ight
pink
1
Brig t Blue
CUPRAMMONIUM
30 km
FLAX
(Bleached)
120lmm
RAMIE
S,ver:‘s Test
I
I
Floats Sinks
BLACK FACE ANGORA
VISCOSE RAYON B&l Rkd WOOL RABBIT
RAYON MANILA SISAL
31
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
- - - -
_ _ _ _ Kurdan-
\I&,
- - - -
- - - _ _
- - _ - do
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
ANNEX D
( Clause 6.2 )
PART 1, SECTIONB/l 37
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
SECTION C '
QUANTITATIVE CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF
I TEXTILE FIBRES
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
It is common practice for various additions to quantitative chemical analysis of fibre mixtures
be made to fibres, yarns and fabrics for assisting given in various Indian Standards.
the processing and manufacture or modifying
the properties of the finished material. These
usually result in appreciable increases in mass The removal of certain types of non-fibrous
and often affect the solubility of the fibres. It matter, particularly when more than one subs-
has also to be borne in mind that fibres gener- tance is present, may demand the exercise of
ally contain a small proportion of naturally considerable chemical resource, and each
occurring non-fibrous substances. The removal material to be treated for removal of its non-
of these non-fibrous substances is therefore fibrous matter should be regarded as an indivi-
necessary before conducting the procedure for dual problem.
4.0 When the type of finish present on the Boil the specimen in water for 5 minutes
material is known, the applicable procedures as using a liquor/specimen ratio of 100 : 1. Repeat
given in 4.1 to 4.24 shall be followed for remo- this procedure with a fresh portion of water.
val of non-fibrous matter. In case the type of Follow this by the procedure described in 4.3.
finish is not known, the procedures as given in
Appendix A shall be folIotied. Information 4.5 Tamarind Seed Size
regarding the applicability and non-applicability
of the procedures as given in 4.1 to 4.24 in the Boil specimen in one percent solution of
presence of certain fibres is given in Table 1. sodium carbonate for 30 minutes using liquor
SP15(P%wl):1989
Triacetate
Polyester
Polyamide or nylon
Bitumen, creosote and 4.12 Most fibres Deacetylated acetate, acetate, triacetate,
tar modacrylic, chlorofibre
4.13.1 Most fibres -
Cellulose ethers
4.13.2 Cotton Viscose, deacetylated acetate, triacetate,
modacrylic, acrylic
Cellulose nitrate 4.14 Most fibres Deacetylated acetate, acetate, triacetate,
chlorofibre
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
Table 1 ( Concluded)
WFnib;zd waterpoof 4.24 Cotton, Protein, Polyester, Deacetylated acetate, acetate, triacetate,
Polyamide or Nylon modacrylic, chlorofibre
NOTES
I Grey cotton looses mass when treated by these methods. The loss amounts to approximately 3 percent of the
final oven-dry mass.
2 Linen looses mass when treated by these methods. The loss depends on the types of yarn from which the
fabric is produced. Losses are approximatety as follows:
Bleached yarns 2 percent m, boiled yarns 3 percent and grey yarns 4 percent.
3 Jute looses mass by approximately 0’5 percent when treated by this method.
4 Polyamide or nylon 6’6 may undergo a 10~s in mass of fihre substance of up to 1 percent when treated
by this method. The loss in mass of polyamide or nylon 6 may vary between 1 percent and 3 percent.
.
to material ratio of 30 : 1. Wash it in water and 4.9 Polyvinyl Acetate
again boil in one percent sodium icarbonate
solution for 30 minutes. Wash with water and Extract the specimen in a Soxhlet appa-
dry.
ratus with acetone for 3 hours at a minimum
rate of 6 cycles per hour.
4.6 Acrylic ( Size or Finish )
4.10 Linseed Oil Sizes
Immerse and agitate the specimen for 30
4 Conduct the procedure described in 4.1
minutes in at least 100 times its own mass of
solution containing 2 g/l soap or other suitable followed by the procedure described in 4.7.
detergent and 2 g/l sodium hydroxide at 70 to 4.11 Amino-Formaldehyde Resins
75°C. Give three 5-minute rinses in distilled
water at 85”C, squeeze, mangle or centrifuge, Extract the specimen with a solution of
and dry the specimen. 25 g/l ortho-phosphoric acid ( 50 percent ) and
50 g/l urea at 80°C for 10 minutes using a liquor
to specimen ratio of 100 : 1. Wash the specimen
4.7 Gelatin and Polyvinyl Alcohel
in water, drain, wash it in a O-1 percent sodium
Treat the specimen in a solution ( using bicarbonate solution, and finally wash it thoro-
a minimum liquor to specimen ratio of 100 : 1 ) ughly in water.
containing
NOTE - This method causes some damage to cupr-
1 gjl of non-ionic surfactant, ammonium, viscose, deacetylated acetate, acetate,
triacetate rayons and modal.
1 g/l of anionic surfactant, and
1 g/l of anhydrous sodium carbonate, 4.12 Bitumen, Creosote and Tar
for 90 minutes at 50°C followed by 90 minutes Extract the specimen with dichloromtehane
in the same bath at 70°C to 75°C. Wash the ( methylene chloride ) in a Soxhlet appa-
specimen and dry it. ratus. The duration of treatment denends on
the amount of non-fibrous matter present, and
4.8 Starch and Polyvinyl Alcohol
it may be necessary to renew the solvent.
Conduct the procedure described in 4.5 NOTE-Extraction of jute with dichloroqethane will
followed by the procedure described in 4.7 with remove also the batching oil, which may be present
intermediate drying. to the extent of 5 percent or more.
SF 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
Scour the specimen in a solution containing Extract the specimen in a Soxhlet appa-
50 to 60 ml/l of 40 percent hydrofluoric ratus with dichloromethane ( methylene chlo-
acid in a polyethylene vessel at 65°C for 45 ride ) for at least 3 hours at a minimum of 6
minutes. Thoroughly wash the specimen, neu- cycles per hour. Then, to remove any metallic
tralize it, and scour it in a solution containing complexes, scour the specimen in a solution
2 g/l soap at 60°C for 1 hour. containing 10 g/ 1 formic acid and 5 g/l acid-
stable surfactant at 80°C for 15 minutes. Wash
NOTE - Hydrofluoric acid is a dangerous product.
the specimen thoroughly in water until it is
4.23 Tin Weighting ( Silk ) free from acid.
ANNEX A
( Clause 4.0 )
A-l Extract the specimens/samples with benzene- ally with glass rod or mechnically. Rinse thrice
methyl alcohol mixture in 3 : 2 ratio in a Soxhlet with fresh portion of warm water ( 50°C ) and
apparatus for 2 hours at a minimum rate of 6 dry. ( This removes water-soluble materials. )
cycles per hour. ( This removes oils, fats, waxes,
certain thermoplastic resins, etc. ) A-4 Immerse the specimen/sample in 200 ml of
0.1 N hydrochloric acid at 80°C for 25 minutes,
A-2 Extract the specimens/samples with ethyl stirring gently every 3 minutes. Rinse thorou-
alcohol in a Soxhlet apparatus for 2 hours at ghly with water at 80°C containing a few drops
a minimum rate of 6 cycles per hour. ( This of ammonia and then finally with plain water.
removes soaps, cationic finishes, etc. ) Remove excess water from the sample by squeez-
mg and suction centrifuging and allow to dry.
A-3 Treat the specimens/samples with 200 ml of ( This removes starches/aminoaldehyde ‘corn-
water at 50°C for 30 minutes, stirring occasion- pound resins. )
Two or more different types of fibres are mixed Mixtures of textile fibres are being increasingly
with one another for producing a variety of used for different purposes. The use of the
textiles. Such a mixture may be composed of different fibres in textile mixture has necessita-
different types of man-made fibres or different ted the formulation of standard methods for
types of natural fibres or both. The composition identification and quantitative estimation of
of the mixture of textile fibres is governed by fibres in mixtures. For the textile technologists
the ultimate use to which the textile materials as well as the traders and the consumers, the
are to be put. quantitative analysis of textile fibres in mixtures
is of considerable importance.
’ SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
1
*I
( Source : IS 9889 : 1988 )
The use of different fibres blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative esti- traders and consumers.
mation of respective fibres. The quantitative
capable of maintaining a temperature of 105” 5.1 From the sample, after removing size and
f 3°C. finishes draw a respresentative sample weighing
about 2 to 3 g. Cut the yarn into pieces and
2.4 Filter Flask dissect the cloth into yarn pieces of about
10 mm length.
with connection to filter pump and adaptor to
enable the crucible ( see 2.2 ) to be fitted to it. 6 METHOD 1
2.5 Analytical Balance 6.1 Principle
capable of weighing to an accuracy of The silk fibre is dissolved from a known
0~000 2 g. dry mass of the mixture with 75 percent (m/m )
sulphuric acid ( see Note ). The residue is
2.6 Desiccator collected, washed, dried and weighed; its mass
containing self-indicating silica gel or anhy- corrected if necessary, is expressed as a per-
drous calcium’chloride. ‘. centage of the dry mass of the mixture. The
percentage of silk is found by difference.
2.7 Mechanical Shaker
NOTE - Wild silk, such as tussah, does not comple-
3 REAGENTS tely dissolve in 75 percent ( m/m ) sulphuric acid.
6.2 Procedure
3.1 Quality af qeagents
6.2.1 Take a specimen weighing about 1 g from
Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall the pretreated sample (see 5.1). Dry the
be employed in tests and. distilled water shall pieces in weighing bottle at 105 & 3°C to cons-
be used where the use of water as a reagent is tant mass, cool it in a dessicator and obtain
intended. the oven dry mass of the specimen.
NOTE -The mass shall be taken as constant if the P = the percentage of clean dry
difference between any two successive weighings at
an interval of 20 minutes does not exceed 0’1 per-
insoluble compdnent;
cent. b = the percentage addition for mois-
6.2.2 Put the specimen in a glass-stoppered ture to the insoluble component;
conical flask. Add 100 -ml of sulphuric acid and
solution per gram of the specimen, insert the a = the percentage addition for mois-
stopper, shake vigorously (preferably in a ture to the soluble component.
mechanical shaker ) and allow to stand for 30
minutes at room temperature. Shake again and NOTES
allow to stand for 30 minutes. Shake a last time 1 The following values for standaI’d moisture’regain
and filter the contents of the flask through the of various fibres may be considered:
weighed filter crucible. Wash any remaining Fibre Standard Moisture
fibres from the flask with a little sulphuric acid Regajn, Percent
solution. Drain the crucible by suction and Silk 11’0
wash the residue on the crucible successively Wool 13’6
with 50 ml of dilute sulphuric acid solution,
50 ml of water and 50 ml of dilute ammonia 2 The standard moisture regain values are generally
solution. Each time, allow the fibres to remain accepted as the commercial moisture regain values in
the trade.
in contact with the liquid for about 10 minutes
before applying suction. Finally, rinse with
water, leaving the fibres in contact with the 6.3.3 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with Per-
water for about 30 minutes. Drain the crucible centage Additions for Moisture Non-fibrous Matter
by suction, dry the crucible and residue at Calculate the percentage ( Pa ) of clean insolu-
105 f 3°C temperature; and cool and weigh ble component in the mixture with percentage
them. additions for moisture and non-fibrous matter
6.2.3 Repeat the procedure prescribed in 6.2.1 by the following formula ( see also Notes 1 and
and 6.2.2 with the remaining test specimen(s). 2 under 6.3.2 ):
.
6.3 Calculations 1OOxPx 1+ -as+&
[ 100 3
6.3.1 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass Pa=
Px 1+ *]+(loo-P)[l+ a*] -
Calculate the percentage (P) of clean dry [I
insoluble component by the formula:
where
P _
-
100 x ml x d
P = the percentage of clean dry insolu-
m. ble component;
where al = the percentage addition for mois-.
ture to the soluble component;
ml = the dry mass of the residue;
a, = the percentage addition for mois-
d = the correction factor of variation
ture to the insoluble component;
in mass of the insoluble compon-
ent in the reagent; and b 1= the percentage addition for non-
fibrous matter to the soluble com-
m, = the dry mass of the specimen.
ponent; and
NOTE - The value of d is found to be 0’975. b a= the percentage addition for non-
6.3.2 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with Per- fibrous matter to the insoluble
centage Addtions for Moisture component.
Calculated the percentage ( PM ) of clean inso- NOTE - The percentage- additions for non-fibrous
matter may be as agreed to between the buyer and
luble component with percentage additions for the seller.
moisture, by the formula:
6.4 Determine the percentage of silk fibre by
1OOxPx 1+&- difference.
( >
7 METHOD 2
pm= p(1+&) + (loo-P)( 1++)
7.1 Principle
where The silk fibre is dissolved from a known’
Paa = percentage, by mass, of wool or dry mass of the mixture with 28 percent ( m/m )
hair fibre in the test sample on hydrochloric . acid. The residue is collected,
dry mass with moisture allow- washed, dried and weighed; its mass corrected
ance; if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the
dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of silk 105 & 3°C temperature, and cool and weigh
is found by difference. them.
7.2 Procedure 7.2.3 Repeat the procedure prescribed in 7.2.1
7.2.1 Follow the procedure given in 6.2.1. and 7.2.2 with the remaining test specimen(s).
7.2.2 Put the specimen in a glass-stoppered 7.3 Calculations
conical flask. Add 100 ml of hydrochloric acid
solution per gram of the specimen, insert the Calculate the percent of component fibres
stopper, shake vigorously ( preferably in a in the mixture as prescribed in 6.3.1, 6.3.2, 6.3.3
mechanical shaker ) and allow to stand at room and 6.4 taking the value of correction factor d
temperature for 30 minutes. Shake a last time as 1.00.
and filter the contents of the flask through the
weighed filter crucible. Wash any remaining 8 REPORT
fibres from the flask with a little hydrochloric
acid solution. Drain the crucible by suction and 8.1 The report shall include the following:
wash the residue on the crucible successively
with 50 ml of dilute hydrochloric acid solution, a) Nature of material tested;
50 ml of water and 50 ml of dilute ammonia b) Method used ( see 6 or 7 );
solution. Each time, allow the fibres to remain c) Method of calculation used ( see 6.3 and
in contact with the liquid for about 10 minutes 7.3 );
before applying suction. Finally, rinse with
water, leaving the fibres in contact with the d) Number of specimens tested; and
water for about 30 minutes. Drain the crucible e) The percentage of component fibres in
by suction, dry the crucible and residue at the mixture ( individual and average ).
The use of different fibre blends in textile has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance- to textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative esti- traders and consumers.
mation of respective fibres. The quantitative
1 SCOPE 4 REAGENTS
I.1 It prescribes sodium zincate method for 4.0 Quality of Reagents
quantitative chemical analysis of binary mix -
tures of regenerated cellulose fibres and cotton Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall
in any textile form, such as fibre, yarn or be employed in the test and distilled water shall
fabric. be used where the use of water as reagent is
intended.
NOTE - Before conducting an analysis according to NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that
this method the fibres present in the mixtures should do not contain impurities which affect the test
be identified and the sample to be analysed shall be results.
freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the dyed
fibres is considered to be an integral part of the fibre 4.1 Sodium Zincate Solution
and is not to be removed.
Take a sample of sodium hydroxide and deter-
1.2 This method is not applicable to mixtures mine its sodium hydroxide content. Take an
, in which the cotton has suffered extensive equivalent of 180 g of sodium hydroxide and
chemical degradation, nor when the viscose, dissolve it in 180 to 200 ml of water in a flask.
cupro or modal fibre 1s rendered incompletely To this add, with constant stirring, 80 g of zinc
soluble by the presence of certain permanent oxide. Heat the contents in the flask to almost
finishes or reactive dyes that cannot be removed boiling until clear or slightly turbid solution
completely. appears. Cool, add about 200 ml of water, stir
thoroughly and make up to 500 ml with water,
2 PRINCIPLE filter if necessary, and store the resulting solu-
tion in a stoppered flask or bottle.
2.1 A specimen of the mixture is dried and
weighed. The regenerated cellulose fibres in the 4.2 Ammonia Solution
test specimen are dissolved in sodium zincate 250 ml of concentrated ammonia solution (sp gr
solution. The residue ( cotton) is collected, O-88 ) diluted to 1 litre with water.
washed, dried and weighed and the proportion
of regenerated cellulose and cotton is calcu- 4.3 Acetic Acid Solution
lated.
50 ml of glacial acetic acid diluted to 1 litre
3 APPARATUS with water.
3.1 Sintered Glass Filter Crucibles 5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS
of appropriate capacity with pore size’of 90 to 5.1 From each sample after removing size and
150 microns ( porosity 1 ) and fitted with finishes, draw a representative specimen weigh-
ground-glass stoppers. If the stoppers are not ing about 2 to 3 g. Cut the test specimen into
available, the crucibles should be enclosed in pieces of approximately 25 mm length.
weighing bottles for weighing.
6 PROCEDURE
3.2 Conical Flask
6.1 Take a test specimen to about 0.5 g and put
of 100 ml capacity, provided with a glass it in a weighing bottle. Dry the specimen in the
stopper. weighing bottle at 105 f 3°C to a constant
mass and obtain oven-dry mass of the speci-
3.3 Ventilated Oven men.
for drying specimens/residue at 105 f 3°C. 6.2 Put the oven-dry specimen in a loo-ml
conical flask. Dilute 1 volume of sodium zincate
3.4 Analytical Balance
solution with 2 volumes of distilled water and
of an accuracy of O*OOO
2 g. mix thoroughly. Add the diluted solution of
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantitative
1 SCOPE 4 REAGENTS
1.1 It prescribes Cadoxen solvent method for 4.1 Cadoxen Solvent
quantitative chemical analysis of binary mix- containing 4.6 f 0.1 percent cadmium and 28
tures of regenerated cellulose fibres and cotton percent ethylenediamine.
in any textile form, such as fibre, yarn or
fabric. 4.1.1 Method of Preparation
NOTE - Before conducting an analysis according to Dilute freshly distilled ethylenediamine with
this method, the fibres present in the mixture should distilled water to 28 percent ( m/m ). Cool the
be identified and the sample to be analysed shall be
freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the dyed solution below 0°C. To this slowly add 8 percent
fibres is considered to be an integral part of the fibre cadmium oxide under vigorous stirring over a
and is not to be removed. period of 4 hours, after which continue stirring
1.1.1 This method is not applicable to mixtures for 2 hours. Keep the solution in cold storage
in which the cotton has suffered extensive ( 0 to 5°C ) for a period of 60 hours and then
chemical degradation, nor when the viscose, slowly bring it to room temperature ( 30°C ).
cupio or modal fibre is rendered incompletely Filter the solvent through sintered glass cruci-
’ soluble by the presence of certain permanent ble and analyse for ethylenediamine and cad-
finishes or. reactive dyes that cannot be removed mium contents as given in Annex A.
completely. 4.2 Light Petroleum
2 PRINCIPLE boiling range 40 to 60°C.
2.1 A sample of the mixture is dried and 5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS
weighed. The regenerated cellulose fibres in the
sample are dissolved in Cadoxen solvent. The 5.1 From each sample after removing size and
residue, that is, cotton, is collected, washed, finishes, draw a representative specimen weigh-
dried and weighed and the proportion of regene- ing about 2 to 3 g. Cut the test specimen into
rated cellulose and cotton is calculated. pieces of approximately 25 mm length.
3 APPARATUS 6 PROCEDURE
3.1 Sintered Glass Filter Crucibles 6.1 Take about 25 g of the specimen in weigh-
ing bottle and dry at 105 & 3°C for 3 hours,
of appropriate capacity ,with pore size of 90 to cool over phosphorus pentoxide in a desiccator
150 microns (porosity 1 ) and fitted with and weigh. Transfer the contents to 150-ml
ground-glass stoppers. If the stoppers are not stoppered flask and determine the exact mass
available, the crucibles should be enclosed in of the specimen by weighing the bottle again.
weighing bottles for weighing.
6.2 Add 50 ml of Cadoxen solvent to the flask
3.2 Desiccator and shake the flask at room temperature for
1 hour. Filter the contents through a weighed
with phosphorus pentoxide as desiccant.
sintered glass crucible.
3.3 Analytical Balance
6.3 Wash the residue ( undissolved cotton )
of an accuracy of 0.000 2 g. with 10 ml of Cadoxen solvent, and then give
several washes with distilled water till the wash-
3.4 Conical Flask ings are free of cadmium. Dry the crucible
of 150 ml capacity, provided with a glass with residue at 105 f 3°C for 3 hours, cool over
stopper. phosphorus pentoxide in a desiccator and weigh.
Determine the mass of the residue.
3.5 Ventilated Oven
6.4 Similarly carry out the test for other test
for drying specimensjresid ue at 105 k 3%. specimens.
ANNEX A
( Czause4.1.1 )
METHODS FOR DETERMINATION OF ETHYLENEDIAMINE AND CADMIUM CONTENTS
IN CADOXEN SOLVENT
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mi\.tures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantitative
Two or more different types of fibres~ are mixed the formulation of standard methods, for identi-
with one another for producing variety of fication and quantitative estimation of the fibres.
textiles for different purposes. The use of differ- Such an evaluation is of interest to the textile
cnt types of fibres in mixture has necessitated technologists, traders and consumers.
61
SP 15 (Part 1) : 1989
constant mass in an oven at 105 f 3”C, cool Ma - mass of specimen obtained in 6.1.
and weigh.
NOTE - The value of d is found to be 1’05.
6.3 Similarly carry out the test on the other
test specimen. 7.2 Determine the percentage of regenerated
cellulose fibre by difference.
7 CALCULATION
7.1 Calculate the percentage of cotton fibre in 8 REPORT
each test specimen by the following formula
and determine the average : The report shall include the following infor-
mation:
100 x M, x d
Percentage of cotton =
M* a) Type of material,
where b) Percentage of:
M, = mass of residue obtained in 6.2,
1) regenerated cellulose,
d = correction factor for the loss in
mass sustained by cotton during 2) cotton, and
the analysis, and 4 Number of specimens tested.
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to the textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantitative
of 200 I& minimum, capacity, provided with a 6 PREPARATION &? TEST SPECIMENS
ground-glass-stopper. 1 From the sample, after removing size and
finishes draw, a representative sample weighing
3.2 Sintered Glass Filter Crucible about 2 to 3 g. Cut the yarn into pieces and
of appropriate capacity with pore ‘size of 90 to dissect the cloth into yarn pieces of about 10
150 microns ( porosity 1 ) and fitted with mm length.
ground-glass stopper is not available, the cruci- 7 PROCEDURE
ble should be enclosed in Weighing bottle for
weighing. j 7.1 Take a test spe,cimen weighing about 1 g
from the pretreated sample ( see 6.1 ). Dry the
3.3 Ventilated Oven specimen kept in ‘aweighing bottle in the drying
for drying samples at 105’ & 3°C oven at 105 f 3°C to, constant mass and obtain
the oven-dry m,ass of the specimen.
3.4 Filter Flask
NOTE - The mass shall be-taken as constant if the
with connection to mter -pump and adaptor to difference between any two successive weighings at
enable the crucible (3.2). to be fitted to it. an interval of 20 minutes does not exceed 0’1 percent.
---wbere
flask to wet. out the specimen, and allow the _ .:
!.
.”
-..
.
.
. . .
flask to staxid for 30 niifititei, shaking it at int&i-
vals of about 10 minutes. Decant the Iiq$d \ P= percentage of clean dry insoluble
through the weighed filter crucible. Add 80 ml cbrhpbnent,
of dichloromethane to the residue in the flask, a F percentage addition for moisture
shake it by hand, and filter the contents of the to the soluble component, and
flask through the filter crucible. Transfer any b== percentage addition for moisture
residual fibres to the crucible washing out the to thd insoluble component.
flask with a little mare dichloromethabe. Drain
the crucible with suction, refill the crucible with NOTES
dichloromethane and allow it to drain under 1 The following values for standard moisture
gravity. Finally, drain the crucible with suction, regain of various fibres may be considered:
dry the crucible and residue at 105 f 3°C to
Fibre Standard Moisture
constant mass, cool in a desiccator and weigh Regain ( Percent )
them.
Aramid ( safety apparel 4’5
7.3 Similarly carry out the test’ on the other fabrics )
specimen(s). i=otton 8’5
Polyamide ( nylon ) 4’5
7.4 Calculations Polyester 0’4
Regenerated protein 10’0
Calculate the result on a clean dry mass .basis Silk 11’0
as in 7.4.1 or clean dry mass with percentage Textile g[ass Zero
additions for moisture as in 7.4.2. or on clian
Triacetate ( primary ) 3’5
dry mass with percentage additions for moisture
and non-fibrous matter as in 7.4.3. Viscose rayon ( regenerated 13’0
cellulose )
Wool 13’6
7.4.1 Methqd Based on Clean Dry Mass
2 The standard moisture regain values are generally
Calculate the percentage ( P ) of clean dry in- accepted as the commercial moisture regain values
soluble compoqnt by the formula: in the trade.
7.4.3 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with
100 x ml x d Percentage Additions for Moisture and Non-fibrous
P =
m0 Matter
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
7.4.4 Find out the percentage of soluble compo- b) Method of calculation used ( see 7.4.1,
nent by subtracting the value obtained in 7.4.1, 7.4.2 or 7.4.3 );
7.4.2 or 7.4.3 from 100.
c) Number of specimens tested; and
8 REPORT
d) The percentage of component fibres in
The report shall include the following: the mixture (individual and average ).
a) Nature of material to be tested;
‘The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to the textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative esti- traders and consumers.
mation of respective fibres. The quantitative
1 SCOPE 3 REAGENTS
1.1 This standard prescribes two methods for 3.0 Quality of Reagents
the quantitative chemical analysis of binary
Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall
mixtures, in any textile form, sue-h as fibre, yarn
be employed in tests and distilled water shall be
or fabric of secondary cellulose acetate with
used where the use of water as a reagent is
cotton, wool, silk, regenerated cellulose, rege-
intended.
nerated protein, polyamide, polyester, acrylic
.and glass fibres. NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that
do not contain impurities which affect the test
NOTE - Before conducting an analysis according to results.
this standard, the fibres present in the mixture should
be identified and the sample to be analysed should be 3.1 Acetone
freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the dyed
fibre is considered to be an integral part of the fibre distilled between 55°C and 57°C.
and is not to be removed.
1.2 The methods prescribed in this standard 3.2 Glacial Acetic Acid
are not applicable to mixtures containing distilled at 117°C to 119°C.
modacrylic fibre, nor to mixtures containing
partially acetylated cellulose acetate fibres. CAUTION
dried and weighed; its mass corrected if neces- Calculate the percentage ( Paa) ,of clean insolu-
sary, is expressed as a percentage of the dry ble component with percentage additions for
mass of the mixture. The percentage of acetate moisture, by the formula:
is found by difference.
b
6.2 PROCEDURE 1OOxPx 1+ m)
(
Paa=
6.2.1 Take one test specimen and dry it in a I+ &)+(loo-PQ+ +)
weighing bottle at 105 f 3°C to constant mass
and determine its oven-dry mass. where
NOTE - The mass shall be taken as constant if the P = the percentage of clean dry insolu-
difference between any two successive weighings at an
interval of 20 minutes does not exceed 0’1 percent. ble component;
a - the percentage addition for mois-
6.2.2 To the specimen contained in the 200 ml ture to the soluble component;
conical flask, add 100 ml of acetone per gram and
of the specimen, shake the flask to wet out the
specimen and allow it to stand for 30 mitutes b - the percentage addition for mois-
at room temperature with intermittent shaking ture to the insoluble component.
and then decant the liquid through the weighed NOTES
filter crucible. Repeat the treatment twice more
( making three extractions in all ) but for 1 The following values for standard moisture regain
of various fibres may be considered: /
periods of 15 minutes only, so that the total
time of treatment in acetone is 1 hour. Wash Fibre Standard Moisture
the residue into the filter crucible with acetone ( Regain Percent )
and drain with suction. Refill the crucible with Acetate ( secondary ) 6’5
acetone and allow it to drain under gravity. Acrylic 1’5
Finally, drain the crucible with suction, dry the
Aramid ( safety apparel fabrics 1 4’5
crucible and residue at 105 & 3C to constant
mass, cool in a desiccator and weigh them. Cotton 8’5
Polyamide ( Nylon ) 4’5
6.2.3 Repeat the procedure given in 6.2.1 Polyester 0.4
and 6.2.2 for the remaining test specimen(s). Silk 11’0
6.3 Calculations Textile glass Zero
Viscose rayon ( regenerated 13’0
Calculate the mass of the insoluble component cellulose )
as a percentage of the total mass of fibre in the Wool 13’6
mixture by the methods based on (a) clean dry 2 The standard moisture regain values are generally
mass, (b) clean dry mass with percentage addi- accepted as the commercial moisture regain values
tions for moisture, or (c) clean dry mass with in the trade.
percentage additions for moisture and non-
fibrous matter as given in 6.3.1, 6.3.2 or 6.3.3 6.3.3 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with Per-
respectively. centage Additions for Moisture and Non-jbrous
Matter
6.3.1 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass
Calculate the percentage ( PA ) ,of clean insolu-
Calculate the percentage ( P ) of clean dry ble component in the mixture with percentage
insoluble component by the formula: additions for moisture and non-fibrous matter
= 100 x ml x d by the following formula ( see also Notes 1 and 2
P under 6.3.2 ):
m,
bt = the percentage addition for non- liquid through the weighed filter crucible.
fibrous matter to the soluble com- Transfer the residue to the filter crucible, drain
ponent; and with suction and rinse the crucible and residue
bz = the percentage addition for non- with 100 ml of glacial acetic acid. Drain the
fibrous matter to the insoluble crucible with suction and wash the residue on
component. the filter successively hot water, dilute ammonia
solution and finally cold water. After each
NOTE - The percentage additions for non-fibrous rinse., allow the liquor to drain through the
matter may be as agreed to between the buyer and crucible for 2 minutes before draining with
the seller. suction. (Do not apply suction until each wash-
6.4 Find out the percentage of soluble compo- ing liquor has drained under gravity. ) Dry the
nent by difference. crucible and residue at 105 & 3°C temperature
to constant mass, cool in a desiccator and
7 METHOD 2 weigh them.
7.1 Principle 7.2.3 Repeat the procedure given in 7.2.1
and 7.2.2 with the remaining test specimen(s).
A sample of the mixture is dried and weighed.
The secondary cellulose acetate in the sample 7.3 Calculations
is dissolved in glacial acetic acid. The residue,
that is the insoluble component, is collected, Calculate the results as described in 8.3.
washed, dried and weighed, its mass corrected 7.4 Find the percentage of second component
if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the by difference.
dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of
acetate is found by difference. 8 REPORT
7.2 Procedure The report shall include the following:
7.2.1Follow the procedure described in 6.2.1 a) Nature of material tested,
and 6.2.2.
b) Method used ( see 6 or 7 ),
1.2.2 To the specimen contained in the conical c) Method of calculation used ( see 6,3 ),
flask, add 100 ml of glacial acetic per gram of
the specimen. Insert the stopper, shake the d) Number of specimens tested, and
flask for 10 minutes on mechanical shaker at e) The percentage of component fibres in
room temperature. Decant the supernatant the mixture ( individual and average ).
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has tive analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of
necessitated the formulation of standard considerable importance to the textile techno-
methods for identification and quantitative logists, traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantita-
1. SCOPE 3. REAGENTS
1.1 This standard prescribes two methods for 3.0 Quality of Reagents
the quantitative chemical analysis of mixtures
of cellulose triacetate with secondary cellulose Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall
acetate fibres in any textile form, such as fibre, be employed in tests and distilled water shall be
yarn or fabric. used where the use of water as a reagent is
intended.
NOTE - Before conducting an analysis according to
this standard, the fibres present in the mixture should NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that
be identified and the sample to be analysed should do not contain impurities which affect the test
be freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the results.
dyed fibre is considered to be an integral part of the 3.1 Aqueous Acetone Solution
fibre and is not to be removed.
containing 700 ml of acetone ( distilled be-
2. APPARATUS tween 55 and 57°C ) per litre of solution.
3.2 Benzyl Alcohol
2.1 Conical Flask
3.3 Ethyl Ether \
of 200 ml minimum capacity, provided with a
ground-glass stopper. 4 TESTING CONDITIONS
2.2 Sintered Glass Filter Crucible The test shall be conducted in prevailing
atmospheric conditions.
of appropriate capacity with a pore size of 90 to
150 microns ( porosity 1 ) and provided with a NOTE - Since dry masses are determined, it is not
ground-glass stopper. If stopper is not avail- necessary to condition the sample.
able, the crucible should b: enclosed in weigh- 5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS
ing bottle for weighing.
From the sample, after removing size and
2.3 Ventilated Oven finishes, draw a representative sample weigh-
ing about 2 to 3 g. Cut the yarn into pieces and
for drying samples at 105 f 3°C. dissect the cloth into yarn pieces of about 10
mm length.
2.4 Filter Flask
6 METHOD 1
with connection to filter pump and adaptor to
enable the crucible ( see 2.2 ) to be fitted to 6.1 Principle
filter flask.
6.1.1 A sample of the mixture is dried and
2.5 Analytical Balance weighed. The secondary cellulose acetate in
the sample is dissolved in 70 percent aqueous
capable of weighing to an accuracy of acetone solution. The residue, that is, cellulose
0~000 2 g. triacetate, is collected, washed, dried and
weighed; its mass corrected if necessary, is
2.6 Desiccator expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of
the mixture. The percentage of secondary cellu-
containing self-indicating silica gel or anhydrous lose acetate is found by difference.
calcium chloride.
6.2 Procedure
2.7 Mechanical Shaker
6.2.1 Take a test specimen weighing about 1 g
2.8 Thermostatic Water-bath from the pre-treated sample ( see 5.1 ). Dry the
washed, dried and weighed; its mass corrected same weighed filter crucible, wash any fibres
if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the from the flask into the crucible with an extra
dry mass of the mixture. The percentage of quantity of benzyl alcohol at a temperature of
acetate is found by difference. 52 f 2°C. Drain the crucible with suction.
Transfer the fibres into a flask, rinse with ethyl
7.2 Procedure ether and, after manual shaking, decant
through the same tilter crucible. Repeat this
7.2.1 Take a specimen weighing about 1 g from
rinsing operation three times. Transfer the
the pre-treated sample (see 5.1). Dry the
residue into the same filter crucible. Finally,
specimen kept in a weighing bottle at 105 f 3°C
drain the crucible with suction, dry the crucible
temperature to constant mass, cool in a dessi-
and residue at 105 f 3’C to constant mass,
cator and weigh it to obtain the clean dry mass
cool in a dessicator and weigh them.
of the specimen.
7.2.3 Similarly carry out the test on the other
NOTE - The mass shall be taken as constant if the
difference between any two successive weighings at
test specimen(s).
an interval of 20 minutes does not exceed 0’1
percent.
7.3 Calculations
Calculate the results as given in 6.3, 6.3.1, 6.3.2,
7.2.2 To the specimen contained in the conical 6.3.3 and 6.4.
flask, add 100 ml of benzyl alcohol per gram of
the specimen. Insert the stopper, shake the NOTE - The value of d is found to be 1’00 for all
flask vigorously on the mechanical shaker so fibres.
that it plunges into the water bath, kept at a
8 REPORT
temperature of 52 f 2°C. Shake the flask for
20 f 1 minutes at this temperature. Filter the The report shall include the following:
contents of the flask through the weighed filter
crucible. Replace the residue in the flask by 4 Nature of material tested,
means of forceps, add to the flask a fresh portion b) Method used ( see 6 or 7 ),
of 100 ml benzyl alcohol and shake as before at
a temperature of 52 f 2°C for 20 f 1 minutes. 4 Method of calculation used ( see 6.3 and
7.3 );
Filter the contents of the flask through the
same weighed filter crucible and repeat the 4 Number of specimens tested, and
cycle a third time with 100 ml of benzyl alco- 4 The percentage of component fibres in
hol. Pour the liquid and the residue into the the mixture ( individual and average ).
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to f the textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative esti- traders and consumers.
mation of respective fibres. The quantitative
1 SCOPE 3 REAGENTS
.
This standard prescribes two methods. for 3.0 Quality of Reagents
the quantitative chemical analysis of bmary
mixtures of nylon 6 or nylon 6.6 with cotton, Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall
regenerated cellulose, polyester, polypropylene, be employed in tests and distilled water shall be
chloro fibre, acrylic or glass fibres in any form, used where the use of water as reagent is
such as fibre, yarn or fabric. It is applicable also intended.
to mixtures with wool, but when the wool con- NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that
tent exceeds 20 percent, the method prescribed do not contain impurities which affect the test results.
in IS 2006 : 1988 should be followed.
3.1 Formic Acid
NOTE - Before conducting an analysis according to
this standard, the fibres present in the mixture should 80 percent ( m/m ).
be identified and the sample to be analysed should be
freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the dyed 3.2 Dilute Ammonia Solution
fibres is considered to be an integral part of the fibre
and is not to be removed. Prepared by diluting 80 ml of concentrated
ammonia solution ( specific gravity 0890 ) to 1
2 APPARATUS litre with distilled water.
2.1 Conical Flask 3.3 Hydrochloric Acid
of 200 ml minimum capacity, provided with a 18 percent ( m/m ).
ground-glass stopper. 4 TESTING CONDITIONS
2.2 Sintered Glass Filter Crucible The test shall be conducted in prevailing
atmospheric conditions.
of appropriate capacity with pore size of 9.0 to
150 microns ( porosity 1 ) and provided with a NOTE - Since dry masses are determined, it is not
ground-glass stopper. If stopper is not available, necessary to condition the sample.
the crucible should be enclosed in weighing
bottle for weighing. 5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS
2.3 Ventilated Oven 5.1 From the sample, after removing size and
finishes draw a representative sample weighing
for drying samples at 105 f 3°C.
about 2 to 3 g. Cut the yarn into pieces and
dissect the cloth into yarn pieces of about
2.4 Filter Flask
10 mm length.
with connection to filter pump and adaptor to
enable the crucible ( 2.2 ) to be fitted to it. 6 METHOD 1
capable of weighing to an accuracy of OWO 2 g. A sample of the mixture is dried and weighed.
The polyamide in the sample is dissolved in 80
2.6 Desiccator percent formic acid. The residue, that is, the
insoluble component, is collected, washed, dried
containing self-indicating silica gel or anhydrous and weighed; its mass corrected if necessary, is
calcium chloride. expressed as a percentage of the dry mass of the
mixture. The percentage of nylon 6 or nylon 6.6
2.7 Mechanical Shaker is found by difference.
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the .formulation of standard derable importance to tbe textile technologists,
methods for .identification ’ and quantitative traders and consumers. __
estimation of respective*fibres. The quantitative : ‘I
I
,. ‘,~_,
1
. .
1.1 This -standard presciibss.‘two methods for containing self-indicating silica gel or anhy-
the quantitative . chemical analysis of ‘binary drous calcium chloride, ‘,
mixtures of acrylic; modacrylic fibres with wool,
silk, cotton, polyamide, polyester, viscose, 2.7 Mechanical Shaker
cupro, modal or glass fibres. It is suitable for
application to fibres in any textile form, such as 3REAGENTS’ ‘,L.’ :
fibre, yarn or fabric: Method 2 is not applicable
3.0 Quality of Reagents
to acrylic fibr es containing cellulosic fibres, silk
and polyamide ( nylon ). Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall
be employed in tests and distilled water shall be
1.2 It is applicable to acrylic fibres dyed with used where the use of water as a reagent is
premetalized dyes but not to those dyed with intended.
after-chrome dyes. It covers only those moda-
crylic fibres which are completely soluble in NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that
dimethylformamide ( DME ). do not contain impurities which affect the test
results.
NOTE -Before conducting an analysis according to
this standard the fibres present in the mixture should 3.1 Dimethylformamlde
be identified and the sample to be analysed should be
freed from all non-fibrous matter. Dye in the dyed boiling point 152 to 154°C.
fibre is considered to be an integral part of the fibre
and is not to be removed. 3.2 Sulplmric Acid Solution
2 APPARATUS 80 percent’( m/m ).
2.1 Conical Flask 3.3 Dilute Sulphuric Acid Solution
of 200 ml minimum capacity, provided with a 5 percent ( mlm ).
ground-glass stopper.
3.4 Dilute Ammonia Solution
2.2 Sintered Glass Filter Crucible
Prepared by diluting 80 ml of concentrated
of appropriate capacity with a pore size of 90 ammonia solution ( sp. gr. 0.89) to 1 Iitre with
to 150 microns ( porosity 1) and provided with distilled water_
a ground-glass stopper. If stopper is not avail-
able the crucible should be enclosed in weighing 4 TESTING CONDITIONS,
bottle for weighing.
4.1 The test shall be conducted in prevailing
2<3 Ventilated Oven atmospheric conditions.
for drying samples at 105 f 3’C. NOTE - Since dry masses are determined, it is not
necessary to condition the sample.
2.4 Filter Flask
5 PREPARATION OF ,TEST SPECIMENS
with connection to filter pump and adaptor to
enable the crucible ( see 2.2 ) to be fitted to it. 5.1 From the sample, aft6 removing size and
finishes draw a representative: sample weighing
2.5 Analytical Balance about 2 to 3 g. Cut ,the yarn into pieces and
dissect the cloth. into yarn pieces of about
capable of weighing.to an accuracy of OWO 2 g. 10 mm length.
z
PART 1, SECTIONC/ 79
SP 15 (Part 1 j :‘I%9
SP 15 ( Part 1) 1989
PA=
1OOxPx
[
l+T W-b~
1 residue on the filter successively with dilute
sulphuric acid ( 5 percent ), hot water, dilute
ammonia solution, and finally cold water,
Pxr 1+*1 +t100-P)[ draining the crucible with suction after each
L addition. ( Do not apply suction until each
where washing liquor has drained under gravity. )
7.2.3 Follow the procedure described in 6.2.3.
P = the percentage of clean dry inso-
luble component; 7.2.4 Repeat the procedure given in 7.211
to 7.2.3 with the remaining test specimen(s).
al = the percentage addition for mois-
ture to the soluble component; 7.3 Calculations
a8 = the percentage addition for mois- Calculate the p¢ of component fibres in
ture to the insoluble component; the mixture as prescribed in 6.3.1, 6.3.2, 6.3.3
and 6.4 taking the value of correction factor d
bl = the percentage addition (for non- as 0.947 for wool and 1.00 for all other fibres.
fibrous matter to the soluble com- 8 REPORT
ponent; and
8.1 The report shall include the following:
b, = the percentage addition for non-
a) Nature of material tested;
fibrous matter to the insoluble
component. b) Method used ( see 6 or 7 );
c) Method of calculation used ( see 6.3 or
NOTE - The percentage addition for non-fibrous 7.3 );
matter may be as agreed to between the buyer and
the seller. d) Number of specimens tested; and
6.4 Find out the percentage of second compo- e) The percentage of component fibres in
nent by difference. the mixture ( individual and average ).
Two or more different types of fibres are mixed used for different purposes. The use of different
with one another for producing a variety of fibres in textile mixtures has necessitated the
textiles; such a mixture may be composed of formulation of standard methods of identifica-
different types of man-made fibres or different tion and quantitative estimation of fibres in
types of natural fibres or both. The composi- mixtures. For the textile technologist as well as
tion of mixtures of textile fibres is governed by for the trader and the mnsumer, the quantita-
the ultimate use to which the textile materials tive analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of
I are to be put. considerable importance.
Mixtures of textile fibres are, being increasingly
3 ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS 5.1 From the sample after removing size and
finishes draw a representative sample weighing
3.1 The test shall be conducted in the prevail- about 2 to 3 g.
ing atmospheric conditions. *
5.1.1 Take one test specimen of about 1 g. If
NOTE - Since dry weights are determined, it is not the sample under analysis is yarn or fibre, cut
necessary to condition the sample. the test specimen into pieces of approximately
25 mm length. If the sample under analysis is
4 APPARATUS AND REAGENT fabric, dissect the test specimen into yarns and
cut the yarns into pieces of approximately 25
4.1 Flat Bottom Flask mm length.
of 500 ml capacity with a glass stopper. 5.1.2 Draw at least two test specimens.
4.2 Sintered Glass Filter Crucible 6 PROCEDURE
of appropriate capacity with pore size of 90 to
150 microns ( porosity 1 ) and provided with a 6.1 Take one of the test specimen of about 1 g
ground-glass stopper. If stopper is not available, from the pretreated sample ( see 5 ) and put it
the crucible should be enclosed in weighing in the weighing bottle. Dry the pieces of the
bottle for weighing. test specimen at 105 f 3’C in the oven ( for
about three hours ) to constant mass, cool it in
4.3 Heating Arrangement a desiccator and determine its oven-dry mass.
for heating the flask and capable of maintain- 6.2 Put all the pieces in the 500-ml flat bottom
ing a temperature up to 150°C. flask. Add required quantity of cyclohexanone
1.1 This standard prescribes a method for containing self-indicating silica gel or anhy-
quantitative chemical analysis of binary mix- drous calcium chloride.
tures; in any textile form such as fibre, yarn or
fabric; of one protein fibre with certain non- 3.3 Drying Oven
portein fibres as follows: for drying samples at 105 f 3°C.
a) Protein Fibres - Wool, chemically treated 3.4 Analytical Balance
wool, raw and degummed silk, raw and
bleached tussah silk, mohair, cashmere, capable of weighing to an accuracy of O*OOO
2 g.
regenerated protein fibres based on
casien; and 3.5 Conical Flask
PART 1, SECTION c/ 11 85
SP lS(Part1):1989
2 The standard moisture regain values are generally bl - the percentage addition for non-
accepted as the commercial moisture regain values fibrous matter to the soluble com-
in the trade. nonent: and
7.4.3 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with Per-
bB = the percentage addition for non-
centage Additions for Moisture and Non-fibrous
Matter fibrous matter to the insoluble
component.
Calculate the percentage ( Pn ) of clean insolu-
ble component in the mixture with percentage NOTE - The percentage additions for non-fibrous
additions for moisture and non-fibrous matter matter may be as agreed to between the buyer and
the seller.
by the following formula ( see also Notes 1 and
2 under 7.4.2 ): 7.4.4 Find out the zlercentage of soluble com-
1
aa + bs ponent ( protein fib;e ) by d%ference.
100
PA=
_!!5?&]+(1~-p)[~+ 53&L] * REPoRT
8.1The report shall include the following:
where
P = the percentage of clean dry insolu- a) Nature of material tested;
ble component; b) Method of calculation used ( see 7.4.1,
7.4.2 or 7.4.3 );
al 1=1the percentage addition for mois-
ture to the soluble component; c) Number of specimens tested; and
aa = the percentage addition for mois- d) The percentage of component fibres in
ture to the insoluble component; the mixture ( individual and average ).
Mixture of textile fibres are being increasingly fibres in mixtures. For the textile technologists
used for different purposes, The use of the as well as the trader and the consumer, the
different fibres in’textile mixture has necessita- quantitative analysis of textile fibres in mixture
ted the formulation of standard methods for is of considerable importance.
identification and quantitative estimation of
1.1 This standard prescribes a method for the f or drying samples at approximately 105 to
quantitative chemical analysis of binary mixture 110°C.
of manila and sisal fibres in any form, such as
fibre yarn, rope or fabric, 5.3 Conical Flask
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to the textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantitative
of 250 ml capacity and fitted .with ground-glass NOTE- The mass shall be taken as constant if the *
stopper. difference between any two successive weighings at an
interval of 20 minutes does not exceed 0’1 percent.
3.5 Filter Flask
6.2 Treat the weighed sample taken in a conical
with connection to filter pump and adaptor to flask with 100 ml of 75 percent sulphuric acid
enable the crucible ( 3.1) to be fitted to it. solution per gram of specimen at room tempe-
rature. Stopper the flask and shake it carefully fi;;ul” the test sample by the following
to wet the specimen completely. Maintain the
flask at room temperature for 30 minutes to
dissolve regenerated cellulose or cotton with
intermittent stirring. Filter the contents of the 1OOxPx (1+ &j
flask through a tared sintered glass crucible by P
suction. Transfer any residual fibres from the Ia= P (1+ I”oO) +( loo-P)(1+ +)
flask with little sulphuric acid solution into the
crucible. Drain the crucible by applying suc-
tion. Wash the residue on the crucible once where
more with the acid solution. Then wash the
residue with distilled water thoroughly. Then PM = percentage, by mass, of clean
wash the residue twice with dilute ammonia polyester fibres in the test sample
solution and finally wash the residue with water on the dry-mass basis plus percen-
thoroughly. After each washing drain the cruci- tage addition for moisture;
ble with the aid of suction. Dry the crucible and P = the percentage of clean dry poly-
the residue to a constant mass in an oven at ester component ( see 7.1.1);
105 f 3”C, cool in a desiccator and weigh
them. a= the percentage addition for mois-
ture to the soluble component;
63 Similarly carry out the test on the other and
specimen(s).
b= the percentage addition for mois-
7 CALCULATIONS ture to the insoluble component.
Express the mass of insoluble component
( polyester ) as the percentage of total mass of NOTES
the fibre in the mixture. Calculate the result on
clean dry mass basis as in 7.1.1 or on clean dry 1 The following values for standard moisture regain
mass with ptrcentage additions for moisture as of various fibres may be considered:
in 7.1.2 or on clean dry mass with percentage Standard Moisture
Fibre
additions for moisture and non-fibrous matter as Regain (Percent 1
in 7.1.3,
Cotton 8’5
7.1 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass Polyester 0’4
Viscose rayon 13’0
Calculate the percentage, by mass, of polyester
fibres in each test specimen by the formula
2 The standard moisture regain values are generally
given below: accepted as the commercial moisture regain values in
the trade.
P= lOOxm,xd
m0 7.3 Method Based on Clean Dry Mass with
Percentage Additions for Moisture and Non-
where fibrous Matter
P = percentage, by mass, of polyester
fibres in the test specimen on dry- Calculate the percentage (PA) of clean insoluble
mass basis; component in the mixture with percentage
additions for moisture and non-fibrou6 matter
m0 = the dry mass of the specimen; by the following ( see also Notes 1 and 2
m, = the dry mass of the residue; and under 7.1.2 ):
d = the correction factor of variation
in mass of the polyester compo- 1OOxPx 1+ za+b, 1
C 130-J
nent in ttie reagent. P A-
Px 1+ f+g-q+ (loo-P)[l+ W]
NOTE - The value of d is found to be 1’00.
a, = the percentage addition for mois- nent in each method given in 7.1 or 7.2 or 7.3
ture to the insoluble component; by difference.
bl = the percentage addition for non- 8. REPORT
fibrous matter to the soluble com-
ponent; and 8.1 The report shall include the following infor-
mation:
bt = the percentage addition for non-
fibrous matter to the insolubl e a) Type of material;
component.
h) Percentage of component fibres in the
mixture ( individual and average );
NOTE - The percentage additions for non-fibrous
matter may be as agreed to between the buyer-and c> Method of calculation used ( see 7.1, 7.2
the seller. or 7.3 ) ; and
7A Find out the percentage of second compo- d) Number of test specimens tested.
Two or more different types of fibres are mixed used for different purposes. The use of different
with one another for producing a variety of fibres in textile mixture has necessitated the
textiles. Such a mixture may be composed of formulation of standard methods for identifica-
different types of man-made fibres or different tion and quantitative estimation of fibres in
types of natural fibres or both. The composition mixtures. For textile technologists as well as
of mixture of textile fibres is governed by the the traders and consumers, the quantitative
ultimate use to which the textile materials are analysis of textile fibres in mixture is of consi-
to be put. derable importance.
Mixtures of textile fibres are being increasingly
fitting the conical flasks ( suitable for liquids of 6.2 Put all the pieces in the conical flask. Add
high boiling point ) . 100 ml of the xylene per gram of specimen to
96 HANDBOOK OF TEXTILE.TESTING
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
Two or more different types of fibres are mixed the formulation of standard methods for identi-
with one another for producing variety of fication and quantitative estimation of the
textiles for different purposes. The use of differ- fibres. Such an evaluation is of interest to the
ent types of fibres in mixture has necessitated textile technologists, traders and consumers.
4.5 Ammonia ( Dilute Solution ) Calculate the percentage of different fibre com-
ponents, first on a clean dry mass basis as given
2 percent ( mjm ), 20 ml concentrated ammo- in 7.1, incorporating the relevant correction
nium hydroxide ( specific gravity 0.88 ) made up factors, and subsequently by taking correction
to one litre with water. r;ys for the percentage moisture as given
. .
5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMEN
7.1 Calculate the corrected dry mass of diffe-
5.1 From the sample after removing size and rent fibres as given below :
finishes draw a representative sample weighing
about 2 to 3 g. Cut the test specimen into pieces a) Cotton, PI s madIda
of approximately 25 mm length and divide it
into two. b) Viscose, P, = (ma-msd,)d3
4 Protein fibre P3 = m, - [msdldz+ (ma -
6 PROCEDURE msd,) 41
6.1 Take a test specimen weighing about 1 g ml = initial clean dry mass of the speci-
from the pretreated sample ( see 5 ). Cut the men,
specimen into small pieces of about 2 mm
length. Dry the specimen in a weighing bottle ma- dry mass of insoluble residue of
at 105 & 3°C to constant mass and obtain the cotton and viscose after dissolution
oven-dry mass of the specimen. from the first reagent of alkali
solution ( see 6.2 ),
6.2 Dissolution of Protein Fibres mS = dry mass of the final insoluble
Treat the weighed sample in a flask containing cotton residue after dissolution
100 mm, of 5 percent sodium hydroxide solu- from the second reagent of acid
tion, previously boiled to expel air. Boil for 10 solution ( see 6.3 ),
minutes, filter through the weighed sintered
glass crucible. Wash with hot distilled water, dl - correction factor for variation in
the mass of the insoluble cotton
then with ‘acetic acid solution. Finally wash component in the second reagent
with distilled water till free from acid. D%y the of acid solution,
residue to constant mass in an oven at
105 * 3”C, cool and weigh. d, - correction factor for variation in
mass of the insoluble cotton com-
6.3 Dissolution of Viscose Rayon ponent in the first reagent of alkali
solution, and
Transfer the residue as obtained in 7.2 to flask
containing 100 ml sulphuric acid ( 60 percent ) d8 = correction factor for variation in
at room temperature and stir vigorously to the mass of the insoluble viscose
break up the sample completely at the first component in the first reagent of
instant and then stir intermittently. Shake alkali solution.
thoroughly, preferably with a mechanical shaker
for 30 minutes and then transfer the contents of NOTE - The values of d for cotton and viscose fibres
the flask to a weighed sintered glass crucible, in the reagent are given below:
wash the residue remaining in the flask, using a
little more sulphuric acid solution and transfer cotton Viscose
the contents to the crucible. Then wash the 5 percent &OH 1’06 1’05
residue twice with a small quantity of dilute 60 percent H&O4 1’05
sulphuric acid solution followed by distilled
water. Then wash the residue with dilute ammo- 7.2 Calculate the percentage of different fibre
nia solution and finally wash the residue components on dry mass basis in each test
thoroughly with water. After each washing drain specimen as given below and determine the
the crucible with the aid of suction. Dry the average :
residue to a constant mass in an oven at
105 f 3”C, cool and weigh.
Cotton, p¢ - TT;x x 100
6.4 Similarly carry out the test on the other 1 $
test specimen. p,
Viscose, percent - -x 100
Pl+PI+Ps
7 CALCULATION
Protein fibre, - -pTF_ x 100
7.0 Express the mass of the insoluble compo- percent 1 t
nents in the total mass of fibre in the mixture.
98 HANDBOOKOF TEXTILETESTING
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
The use of different fibre blends in textiles has analysis of textile fibres in mixtures is of consi-
necessitated the formulation of standard derable importance to the textile technologists,
methods for identification and quantitative traders and consumers.
estimation of respective fibres. The quantitative
P piv= P IA=
loop,
[
al+bl
1-t ___
100 1+b*
100 P,[l+ --&I
p1 I$_ !.??.!I-
100 1 t -tPI l++j-
asfb3
1t
PI [ 1+ *]+PS[ I+ &]+Ps[l+ $1 p3 I+ I()()
[ 3
aI+&
1+a,+&
PDM= 100
1
~
p1l+100+p, I()()
1+
P IA=
I[
100 P*[l+ -g-j al+bl
I
PI [It &]+P,[1+ *]+qj+ -$O-]- a&b3
p3 1-t 100
where
percentage of clean dry compo-
1 ,
PlM =;
nent 1 with percentage additions P 3A’ r
for moisture, Pl 1+ +
L
1
Pm = percentage of clean dry compo- as+&
nent 2 with percentage additions
for moisture,
p3[ l+ 100
P sA = percentage of pure dry compo- dilute acetic acid and finally water, draining the
nent 3 with percentage additions crucible with suction after each addition. ( Do
for moisture and non-fibrous not apply suction until each washing liquor has
matter, drained under gravity, ) Finally drain the cruci-
= percentage addition to compo- ble and residue at 105 f 3°C to constant mass,
fll
nent 1 for moisture, cool in a desiccator and weigh.
a, = percentage addition to compo- 6.2.3 Transfer the residue by means of forceps
nent 2 for moisture, to the conical flask, add 100 ml of 18 percent
a3 - percentage addition to compo- hydrochloric acid solution per gram of speci-
nent 3 for moisture, men, insert the stopper, shake the flask to wet
= percentage addition to compo- the specimen and allow the flask to stand for 15
bt ^_ minutes at room temperature, shaking at inter-
nent 1 for non-fibrous .matter,
vals, Filter the contents of the flask through a
ba = percentage addition to compo- weighed filter crucible and transfer any residual
nent 2 for non-fibrous matter, fibres to the crucible by washing out the flask
and with a little more hydrochloric acid solution.
bs - percentage addition to compo- Drain the crucible with suction and wash the
nent 3 for non-fibrous matter. residue on the filter successively with hydro-
chloric acid solution, hot water, dilute ammonia
NOTE - The percentage additions for non-fibrous
solution and finally cold water, draining the
matter may be as agreed to between the buyer and
the seller. crucible with suction after each addition. ( Do
not apyly suction until each washing liquor has
6 METHOD 2 drained under gravity. j Finally, drain the
6.0 Principle crucible with suction, dry the crucible and resi-
due at 105 f 3°C to constant mass, cool in a
6.1 The protein fibre is dissolved out from a desiccator and weigh.
known dry ‘mass of the mixture, with 5 percent
sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide NOTE - The component ( protein, nylon 6 or nylon
solution. The residue is collected, washed, dried 6’6 ) present in larger quantity should be dissolved
and weighed. The nylon 6 or nylon 6.6 fibre is first.
then dissolved out from the residue with 18
percent hydrochloric acid solution and the 6.2.4 Repeat the procedure prescribed in 6.2.1
insoluble fibre ( third component ) is collected, to 6.2.3 with the remaining test specimen(s).
washed, dried and weighed; its mass corrected
6.2.5 Alternatively, using the procedure des-
if necessary, is expressed as a percentage of the
cribed above, first dissolve the nylon with
dry mass of the mixture. The percentages of
hydrochloric acid and subsequently dissolve the
protein and nylon 6 or nylon 6.6 are found by
protein fibre with sodium hydroxide or potas-
difference. Alternatively, the nylon 6 or nylon
sium hydroxide solution.
6.6 is first removed from the mixture with
hydrochloric acid and the protein fibre then 6.3 Calculations
dissolved out from the residue with sodium
hydroxide or potassium hydroxide solution. The Calculate the mass of each component as a
component ( protein, nylon 6 or nylon 6.6 percentage of total mass of the fibres in the
fibre ) present in the larger quantity should be mixture by any of the methods prescribed
dissolved first. in 5.3.1, 5.3.2 or 5.3.3.
6.2 Procedure 7 REPORT
6.2.1 Follow the procedure described in 5.2.1.
7.1 The report shall include the followrng infor-
6.2.2 Transfer the specimen to a 250-ml glass mation:
beaker, add 100 ml of 5 percent sodium hydro-
xide or potassium hydroxide solution ( previ- a) Type of material tested,
ously boiled to expel air ) per gram of speci-
men, shake the beaker to wet the specimen
W Method used ( see 5 or 6 ),
and boil the solution for 10 minutes. Cool Cl Percentage of component fibres in the
and filter the contents of the beaker with mixture ( individual and average ), and
a little sodium hydroxide solution. Drain the d) The method used for calculation of per-
crucible with suction and wash the residue centage of component fibres ( see 5.3
on the filter successiveiy with hot water, and 6.3 ).
‘SECTIOND
The methods prescribed are in line with the shed by International Organization for Stand-
IS0 1973-1976 ‘Determination of linear density ardization.
of textile fibres - Gravimetric method’, publi-
Fibres which have been sorted out previously suitable for weighing the bundles of fibres to
into groups of known lengths are weighed and an accuracy of 0.02 mg and having 2 mg capa-
then counted. Then the mass per unit length is city.
calculated from the number, mass and length 5.1.2 Device for Cutting the Fibres or Bundles of
of fibres. Fibres
5.2.2 Cut the middle part of each combed tuft approximately 100 fibres each taken by separat-
to a given length ( as great as possible ) under ing them length-wise from each length group of‘
the minimum tension necessary to remove a sub-sample.
crimp, by means of the cutting device. Take
the necessary precautions so that there are no 6.2.3 Take a bundle of fibre from a specimen
free fibre ends anywhere except at the two ends (see 5.2.2) beginning with the longest group and
of the cut tufts. weigh it to an accuracy of O-02 mg and record
the mass. Then mount the fibres on the glass
5.2.3 Place the 10 tufts so obtained on the slides and cover them with the glass covers
velvet board and cover them with the glass using some suitable mounting medium, if requi-
plate from the edge of which they should pro- red. Mark the slides for the length-group iden-
trude slightly. tification.
5.2.4 From each of the 10 tufts in turn, take 6.2.4 Complete the preparation of the specimen
out sufficient number of fibres, so as to form a by mounting the bundles from each length
tuft, weighing about 0.2 mg, in each case draw- group.
ing the fibres from one cut end. Make sufficient
number of tufts, so that a total number of at 6.2.5 Place each slide on the microscope stage
least 1 000 fibres in the case of natural fibres turn by turn and count all the fibres in the
and 200 fibres in the case of man-made fibres slide. For reference see record sheet in Annex A
are covered. Condition these tufts in the stand- showing a typical data of a cotton fibre
ard atmosphere and then weigh them indivi- specimen.
dually, using the balance to an accuracy of
0.02 mg. 6.2.6 Similarly, prepare the slides and count
the number of fibres on each slide for the
5.3 Calculations second sub-sample also.
Calculate the linear density of the fibres by
dividing mass by the total length of cut fibres 6.3 Calculations
in each tuft. Then determine the mean linear
density for all the tufts from the values obtain- 6.3.1 Calculate the linear density of the fibres
ed for each tuft. in the sub-sample as follows (see also Annex A):
6 METHOD II - WHOLE FIBRES Let
6.1 Apparatus
Ml = total mass of fibres in ith length
6.1.1Microscope group, in mg, to the nearest
with mechanical stage and magnification of at 0.2 mg;
least 100 x. ml - mass of counted fibres in ith
length group, in mg, to the nearest
6.1.2 Glass Slides
0.2 mg;
6.1.3 Cover Glasses n1 = number of these fibres;
6..1.4 Twee ze rs 11 = length of fibres in ith length
group;
6.1.5 Balance
.HI = linear density ( in mtex ) of fibres.
suitable for weighing bundles of fibres to an in ith length group; and
accuracy of 0.02 mg and having 2 mg capacity.
H= linear density (in mtex) of all the
6.1.6 Mourzting Medium fibres.
ANNEX A
’ ( Chms 6.2.5 and 6.3.1 )
EM1 72’8
H, mtex = = -= 175’168 or 175
0’415 3
z
The tensile properties of individual fibres play applicable for natural fibres as well. However,
an important role during manufacture, especially this shall be more useful to technologists during
in case of man-made fibres, so as to make them their research study.
fit for specific end use. The method is also
The machine shall be capable of applying a This is to aid in accurately mounting the test
constant rate of extension to the fibre, such that specimens on tabs ‘at the specified gauge
after the first 2 seconds of the test, the rate of length.
increase in the distance between the clamps
does not differ by more than 5 percent from the 4 PROCEDURE
average rate of increase over the whole period
4.1 Condition the test specimen in the standard
of test. The machine shall include facilities for
atmospheric conditions.
producing different constant rates of extension
in order to break the test specimen in an 4.2 Set the machine to give the required dura-
average time-to-break of 20 f 3 seconds. tion of test between the limits specified in 3.1.1
and 3.1.2.
3.1.2 Constant Rate of Loading Machine
4.3 Prepare and mount an individual fibre in
The machine shall be capable of applying force the clamps of the testing machine ( see Annex
at a constant rate such that after the first 5 A ). Ensure that the fibre lies along the axis of
seconds of the test, the average rate of increase elongation of the machine. Start the tensile
of force in any 2 seconds interval does not testing machine and associated auxiliary equip-
differ by more than 25 percent from the average ment, extending the fibre specimen to break.
rate of increase of force over the whole period
of test. The machine shall include facilities for 4.3.1 Slack Mounting
applying force at different constant rates in
order to break the test specimens in an average Mount the fibres individually slightly slack,
time-to-break of 20 f 3 seconds. either directly between suitable clamps or on
tabs.
3.2 Clamps
4.3.2 Pre- tensioned Mounting
These are’flat jaws for gripping the fibre speci-
mens and designed to minimize slippage during Mount the fibres individually between suitable
the test. jaws and apply a tension of 5.0 f 0.5 mN/tex
for the dry test and 2.5 f 0.3 mN/tex for the
3.3 Tabs wet test, calculated from the mean linear den-
sity of the fibre.
These are of thin plastic or other material for
use with cementing techniques. NOTE - A higher pre-tension to remove crimp may
be applied subject to the agreement between the con-
3.4 Means for enabling individual fibres to be cerned parties.
placed without damage, between clamps of the 4.4 If the fibre specimen is mounted on tabs
instrument ( see Annex A ). before being placed in the testing machine, the
distance between tabs defines the nominal
3.5 Cement or Adhesive gauge length. The mounting of fibre specimens
on tabs will be facilitated by use of an appro-
The adhesive should bind the tabs to the fibres priate jig.
without effecting an appreciable solution of the
latter or any change in the moisture content of 4.4.1 When tabs are used, cut the tab across so
the specimen. that the iibre is free set the traversing jaw in
motion and extend the test specimen to the
3.6 Distilled Water point of rupture.
at a temperature of 27 f 2”C, to which a non-
ionic wetting agent has been added, to give 4.5 Unless, otherwise agreed by the interested
concentration of about 0.1 percent. parties test at least 50 specimens. Note jaw
breaks, that is, breaks in which either of the
3.7 Auxiliary Equipment broken ends is not visible and exclude the
result obtained on such test specimens. The
The testing machine may be equipped with mean breaking load is the mean value of the
auxiliary equipment to permit the automatic breaking loads of all fibres taken. The mean
recording of data or the calculation of any elongation ( extension ) at break is the mean
required tensile property. The auxiliary equip- value of the elongation ( extension ) at break of ,
ment shall be capable of recording data and all test specimens. For determination of tena-
performing calculations in a manner consistent city, the mean linear density of the test speci-
with the instructions for calculations as descri- men shall be calculated as prescribed for
bed in this method. natural fibres and for man-made fibres.
NOTE - As the coefficient of variation for the indi- 5.4 Calculate the coefficient of variation ( CV )
vidual fibre tenacity is very high for natural fibres of the breaking strength and of the elongation.
more number of tests of specimens are advisable for
a desirable degree of accuracy. If the confidence
at break.
limits for 50 tests do not differ by more than f 4
percent from the mean then this value is taken as
the mean of the lot. Otherwise, the number of tests 5.5 In addition, if necessary, calculate any
shall be increased until the confidence limits are other required tensile properties for example,
brought within f 4 percent of the mean breaking tenacity, modulus and breaking toughness etc
load. ( For better significance of test results of the ( see Annex C ).
natural fibres at least 300 specimens may be taken
and tested. 1
6 TEST REPORT
-4.6 Wet Specimens
Determine the properties of wet fibres on speci- 6.1 The test report shall include the following:
mens immersed in a 0.1 percent aqueous solu-
tion of a, non-ionic wetting agent. Allow 4 Type of material tested;
sufficient wettingout time before testing to pro-
duce the maximum change in breaking load ‘4 Number of fibres tested;
and elongation at break as indicated by no C>Method followed: The method of mount-
further change with longer periods of immer- ing the fibres and the type of mounting,
sion. that is, pretensioned or on support tab;
5 EXPRESSION OF RESULTS 4 Gauge length used;
5.1 Calculate the mean breaking strength of the
fibres tested and express the result in mN.
4 Mean tenacity of the fibres in mN/tex;
5.2 Compute the mean tenacity of the fibres f 1 Mean elongation at break, in percent;
and express the result in mN/tex. g) Coefficient of variation of the breaking
strength and elongation at break; and
5.3. Calculate the mean elongation at break of
the fibres and the mean elongation at break as h) Result of any other tensile properties
..a percentage of the gauge length (see Annex B). required.
ANNEX A
( Clauses3.4 and 4.3 )
MOUNTING OF TEST SPECIMEN
A-O It must be emphasized that great care will introduce errors in measurements of elon-
should be taken to ensure that the fibre is not gation and may contribute to premature fibre
damaged, for example, the length of the fibre failure.
under test shall not be held with tweezers.
NOTES
A-l Mount a test specimen in the jaws of the 1 For a slack mounted fibre, a tab may be used. A
clamps, removing slack without stretching the rectangular hole whose length is equal to the gauge
specimen. The specimen shall be straight within length is cut in the tab and the fibre is mounted
across the hole by means of a suitable adhesive. It
the jaws and extreme care shall be taken to is essential that the adhesive should not spread over
ensure that the fibre specimen lies on the line the length of the fibre under test, both the tabs and
of action between the force-measuring device the adhesive shall be waterproof.
and the point where the fibre leaves the moving 2 For ore-tensioned fibres. suitable fibre clios shall
jaw face. Any misalignment that tends to pro- be attached to the testing ‘machine. These can also
duce transverse motion of the clamps and jaws be used for slack mounting if desired.
ANNEX B
( Clause5.3 )
MEASUREMENT OF ELONGATION
ANNEX C
( Clause 5.5 )
CALCULATIONS
Draw a line between any two specified points,for rupture the specimen. It is the integral of the
example, S and M on the load-elongation curve. nominal stress-strain curve and is calculated by
Extrapolate the line to intersect the zero load dividing the work of rupture by the mass of the
axis at the point X. Drop a perpendicular from specimen under test.
the point S to intersect the zero load axis at Breaking toughness is calculated from the area
point R.
under the load-elongation curve expressed as
Tenacity ( SR/tex) mN/tex ( mN. mm tex. mm ).
Modulus, Secant =
Ef
Breaking toughness = V/T
where
SR = load indicated by distance SR in where
Fig. 1.
T = linear density, tex; and
El = fractional elongation correspond-
ing to distance RX. V = work done in extending the fibre,
mN ( mN. mm/mm), that is
C-5 MODULUS, TANGENT (AxSxR)/(GxWxL)
C-5.1 The tangent modulus may be used to where
differentiate between the probable performance
of fibres in processing and end-use performance. A = area under load elongation ( mm2 )
Draw a line tangent to the load-elongation
curve at the desired point on the curve which S = full-scale load ( mN )
has been specified either in terms of the stress R = crosshead speed ( mm/min )
or the elongation at the point. Select the points
on the tangent line and calculate the slope of G = effective specimen length ( correc-
the line as described in C-4. ted ) ( mm )
C-6 BREAKING TOUGHNESS W = chart width ( mm ), and
.C-6.1 It is the energy per unit mass required to L = chart speed ( mm/min ).
ELONGATION (mm)
B
AB -TANGENT TO CU2VE 01
Moisture in cotton plays an important role in estimation is critical for estimation of mass in
the quality characteristics. In order to have a cotton textile materials.
repeatable and reproduceable results moisture
2.3 Similarly test the other test specimen(s). L = original mass in g of the lot,
b = over-dry mass in g of the test
3 CALCULATIONS specimen, and
a = original mass in g of the test speci-
3.1 Calculate the percentage of moisture content men.
Fineness in one of the important characteristics Much work on an international basis has been
of cotton fibre. The airflow instruments, gene- done to develop and make available a range of
rally prescribed for this method, operate on the cottons for the calibration of airflow instru-
principle that the rate of airflow, through a ments. By use of these calibration cottons and
plug of cotton fibre of fixed weight contained in application of the procedures prescribed in this
a container of definite dimensions and subjected test, it is possible to achieve agreement between
to a constant pressure head is related to the two laboratories within h&2 micronaire units
fineness of the cotton fibr e. in the fineness measurement of the usual com-
mercial sample of cotton.
5.2 Spread the opened, cleaned and conditioned 6.5 Take the other test specimen and determine
test sample and divide it into 25 approximately the test values in the manner set out in 6.1
equal groups. Extract small bunches of loose to 6.4.
fibres from each group. Remove the pieces of
non-fibrous material from fibres so collected and NOTE - If the deviation of any individual reading is
weigh at least two test specimens as in 5.3. more than 0’2 from the mean value, prepare two more
test specimens as prescribed in 5 and find out the test
values by the procedure prescribed in 6.1 to 6.5.
5.3 The test specimens shall be of the size pres-
cribed for the instrument being used. In instru- 7 CALCULATION AND EXPRESSION OF
ments having compression cylinders of fixed RESULTS
volume, the weight of the specimen shall be with-
in kO.5 percent of specimen weigh appropriate 7.1 In instruments in which the scale is gradua-
for the instrument. In instruments having com- ted in micronaire units, find the average of the
pression cylinders with adjustably varied volume, test values to the nearest O-1 micronaire unit
the weight of the test specimen used shall be and report it as the micronaire value of the
known with an accuracy of f0.5 percent. cotton fibre in the lot.
6 PROCEDURE 7.2 For instruments in which the scale is gra-
duated in units other than micronaire, convert
6.0 Make the necessary preliminary adjustments the direct reading to micronaire units either
appropriate to the instrument used and carry from a previously prepared graph or by previ-
out tests in standard atmosphere. ously fitted curve ( see A-3.1 ). Find the average
6.1 Place the test specimen in the fibre compre- of the values thus obtained to the nearest 0.1
ssion cylinder, a small portion at a time, taking micronaire unit and report it as the micronaire
care that all the fibres are placed inside. value of the cotton fibre in the lot.
6.2 Insert the compression plunger in position NOTE - A conversion curve or a conversion equa-
in the fibre compression cylinder and lock it. tion will have to be prepared for all instruments not
having a micronaire scale in order to make full use of
6.3 Cause the air to flow through the specimen the calibration cottons referred to in Appendix A.
and read the airflow or the difference in pressure
on the scale to an accuracy or half a division of 8 REPORT
the scale.
The test report shal1 include the following:
6.4 Remove the test specimen from the fibre
compression cylinder. Open out the specimen a) The average value calculated as the micro-
and re-pack it into the fibre compression cylin- naire value of the lot;
der, taking care that all the fibres are placed b) The type, make and model of instrument
inside. Determine one more test value of the used; and
specimen in the manner prescribed in 6.2
and 6.3. c) The number of specimens tested.
ANNEX A
( czause 4.2 )
METHOD OF CALIBRATING AIRFLOW INSTRUMENTS
the two readings exceeds 0.1 micronaire unit, bration cottons. Alternatively, calculate a series
prepare a new specimen of the calibration cotton of corrections to be applied to the readings of
and make two readings on it. Continue such the cottons to be tested.
readings until two specimens from calibration
cotton have each been read within the tolerance
specified. A-3 CALIBRATION OF INSTRUMENTS WITH
SCALE GRADUATED IN OTHER THAN
A-2.3 Find the average of the first .readings of MICRONAIRE UNITS
the three specimen and compare with the estab-
lished value printed on the label of the A-3.1 For an airflow instrument equipped with
calibration cotton. If none of the differences scale graduated in other than micronaire units,
between the averages and the corresponding establish the relation between the instrument
established values exceed O-10 micronaire unit, readings and the established micronaire values
the instrument is considered to be in calibration. for the calibration cottons by plotting a graph
If greater differences occur make necessary or fitting a curve. It is recommended to use as
adjustments in the instrument to bring it into many calibration cottons as available preferably
compliance with established values of the cali- more than three.
ANNEX B
( Clause 4.1 )
OPERATION OF THE MICRONAIRE AIRFLOW INSTRUMENTS*
B-2.1.6 Tightly close the upper opening of the NOTE - Open and close the upper opening of the
control disc with one finger. The float will then control disc, several times. If the adjustments were
correctly mad!, the float position shall correspond to
fall to about the level of lower check mark. t;;teyks wlthout further changes of the adjusting
ANNEX C
( Clause4.1 )
OPERATION OF THE W.1.R.A FINENESS METER ( COTTON MODEL )*
ANNEX D
( Clause 4.1 )
D-l.1 Level the instrument accurately with the D-2.2 After sampling, conditioning of samples
levelling screws provided. and preparation of specimens, the test specimen
shall weigh 5.0 g f 0.5 percent.
D-l..2 Check the level of the liquid in the mano-
meter. The level shall coincide with the refe- D-2.3 Follow the instructions given in 6.1 to 6.5
rence mark on the initial vertical portion of the for loading the specimen, closing the compres-
sion cylinder and reading the gauge.
*The ATIRA Fibre Fineness Tester is available at
Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association, D-2.4 Follow the instructions given in 7.1
Navrangpura, Ahmadabad. Mention of the ,name of a
specific ( or proprietary ) instrument is not intended to and 7.2 for calculating and reporting the test
promote or give preference to the use of that instrument. result.
ANNEX E
( Clause 4.1 )
E-Q.1 It is a portable Arealometer meant for use El.1 Place the instrument on a level surface
at places where the cotton is traded or process- and remove the cover. Check the zero of the
ed. It is graduated in ‘equivalent fibre thickness’ permeability indicating meter.
in microns and micronaire units. The two scales
are graduated from 3 to 7 microns and 2.5 to 7 E-l.2 Place a weight, of 8 g on the weighing scale
micronaire units respectively. It measures a and with the compression lever in the top posi-
specimen of 8-O g. It can be read to an accuracy tion, adjust the zero screw until the permeabi-
of &0*05 micronaire unit. For any other cons- lity indicating meter reads near the red mark on
tructional or operational details, not given here, the scale.
the manufacturer’s instructions supplied with
E-l.3 Take approximately 8.0 g of cotton and
the instrument shall be consulted.
place on the weighing scale. Give one stroke to
the pump of the atomizer bulb and see whether
*Mention of the name of a specific ( or proprietary )
the specimen is heavier or lighter than 8.0 g.
* instrument is not intended to promote or give preference
to the use of that instrument. If the indicator goes above the red mark, the
specimen is heavier and if it goes below, the E-2.2 After sampling, conditioning of samples
specimen is lighter. By taking off or adding bit and preparation of specimens the test specimen
by bit, adjust the specimen weight to 8.0 g. shall weigh 8-O + 0.5 percent.
E-2.3 Follow the instructions given in 6.1 to 6.5
for loading the specimen, closing the compres-
E-2 CALIBRATION AND TESTING
sion cylinder and reading the gauge.
E-2.1 After preliminary adjustment calibrate E-2.4 Follow the instructions given in 7.1
the instrument by using the International Cali- and 7.2 for calculating and reporting the test
bration Cottons ( see Annex A ). result.
COTTONFIBREMATURITY
(SODIUM HYDROXIDE SWELLING ~~ETI~oD)
( Source : IS 236 : 1968 )
It prescribes three methods for determination may be followed for routine testing in view of
of cotton fibre maturity, keeping in view the its simplicity. The terminology used in the
practices prevalent in the industry. The results three methods ( I, II and III ) is different from
obtained by all the three methods are highly method to method and has been defined in each
correlated and any one of them ca n beused for case. The definitions of one method should not
the determination of maturity of cotton fibres. be confused with those of the other method.
However, it is recommended that Method II
2.1 A microscope fitted with a mechanical 3.1.3 Similarly prepare four more slides.
traversing stage and having a magnification
power of 200x, 400 x to 500 x , and 150 x for 4 METHODS
methods I, II and III respectively. 4.1 Method I ( Coeffieieat .of Maturity CM)
2.2 Glass slides and cover slips. 4.1.1 Terminology
2.3 Scissors, forceps, glass rod, etc. a) Fibre mazurity count - The fibre maturity
2.4 Sodium hydroxide solution, 18 percent. count is denoted by the percentages of
the mature, half mature and immature
2.5 Draw box. fibres in a sample.
3 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS b) Maturity - The degree of fibre wall deve-
lopment .
3.1 If the test sample is in the form of a sliver,
lay it on a velvet-covered board, and if the 4.1.2 Principle
test sample is in the form of .a rovin g or yarn, The fibres are classified into mature, half
untwist several strands before laying them mature and immature fibres on the basis of the
parallel to each other side by side on the ratio of their lumen width to their wall thick-
velvet-covered board. Place a glass plate over ness, both values being determined after the
the test sample with its long edge at right angle fibres have been swollen fully in 18 percent
to the length of the test sample. With the help sodium hydroxide solution, as given below:
of sharp scissors, cut the test sample as near to
the edge of the glass plate as possible. With Lumen Width
Value of Class
the help of forceps, remove and discard the Wall Thickness
fibres whose cut ends are projecting right up to
the edge of the glass plate. Between 0 and 1 Mature
Between 1 and 2 Half mature
3.1.1 Move the glass plate backwards ( about
1 mm ) and with the help of forceps, remove Above 2 Immature
and discard the fibres by gripping the protrudmg
ends, right up to the edge of the glass plate. 4.1.3 Procedure
Move the glass plate backwards again and 4.1.3.1 Adjust the microscope condenser to
similarly remove and discard the protrudmg give critical illumination and then move it
fibres. slightly to obtain a uniformly-lit field of veiw.
3.1.2 Move the glass plate backwards a third Place the first mounted slide as prepared
time and then remove the fibres with the help in 3.1.2 ( after about 5 minutes of its irrigation
It prescribes a polarized-light method for esti- determined after the fibres have swollen in 18
mating the percentage of immature fibres in a percent caustic soda solution. But, in the pola-
sample of cotton. This method is intended to rized-light method prescribed in this standard,
be an alternative to sodium hydroxide swelling fibres are classified as (a) immature fibres, and
method as far as the determination of percent- (b) non-immature fibres, on the basis of the
age of immature fibres in a sample of cotton is colour observed under polarized light. For the
concerned. In the sodium hydroxide swelling same sample of cotton, the percentage of imma-
method, fibres are classified as (a) mature fibres, ture fibres determined by polarized-light method
(b) half-mature fibres, and (c) immature fibres may differ slightly from the corresponding value
on the basis of the ratio of the width of their determined by caustic soda swelling method.
lumen to the width of their wall, both being
3.3 Check the microscope to make sure that the 4.3 Find the mean of the five values and report
analyzer and polarizer are set at extinction it as the immature fibres, percent.
( crossed ), with the selenite plate removed.
5 REPORT
Insert the selenite plate with the slow-vibration
direction ( as indicated by the arrow on the 5.1 The report shall include the following infor-
selenite plate ) at 45 degrees to the polarization mation:
plane of the polarizer. Set the eyepiece so that
one of the cross-hairs is parallel to the arrow of a) Type of material; and
the selenite plate. b) Immature fibres, percent.
The deiermination of lint and trash content of processes or machines. Also the amount of use-
raw cotton is important since the presence of ful lint present in the waste removed at various
trash directly influences the net amount of yarn machines helps in making the adjustment and
or cloth that can be manufactured from a given settings of various cleaning points of the
lot of cotton. machines. Thus, the analysis of intermediate
products and wastes for lint and trash contents
The amount of trash remaining in vsirious inter- helps in profitable adjustment and operation of
mediate products like scutcher lap, card sliver, the machines to clean the cotton to a predeter-
etc, indicates the cleaning efficiency of the mined degree.
1.1.1 The method may also be used for analys- 4.1 From the sample(s), draw test specimens in
ing the waste removed by different machines for such a way that these are representative of the
the lint and trash content. sample(s), but at the same time keep the number
of pieces making up the specimen to a mini-
2 PRINCIPLE mum consistent with the representative samp-
ling.
2.1 A known weight of the specimen is fed to the
machine. The specimen is well opened by the NOTE - While preparing the samples from the lot
and specimens from the samples, take care that no
machine and then discharged in an air stream. trash is lost in handling.
The ,air stream carries the fibres to the surface
of a condenser cage and allows the heavier par- 4.2 The test specimen shall be of the size in
ticles of trash to fall down. The lint and the conformity with what is specified in the opera-
waste are collected in separate compartments. ting instructions for the instrument being used.
The amount of lint and trash so collected are A small deviation from the exact prescribed size
separately weighed and computed as the per- is justified, if it helps in preventing shedding of
centages of the original weight of the specimen. trash during drawing and weighing. Weigh the
specimen to an accuracy of 100 mg (M).
3 APPARATUS
4.3 Test at least 2 test specimens.
3.1 Balance
5 PROCEDURE
a balance of sufficient capacity and capable of
weighing to an accuracy of 10 mg. 5.0 Make the necessarypreliminary adjustments
in accordance with the instructions given in
3.2 Analyser Annex A or with the manufacturers’ instruc-
tions.
a machine working on mechanical-pneumatic
principle capable of separating trash and lint 5.1 Shake the specimen so that large particles
fractions. The machine shall be equipped with of trash (which may otherwise damage the
accessories given in 3.2.1 to 3.2.3. machine ) are removed from the specimen; pre-
serve these droppings for incorporation in the
3.2.1 Containers trash in 5.6. Spread the specimen on the feed
for holding the specimen and different fractions plate between the guide plates in the form of an
thereof. even layer after opefling out the hard lumps, if
any ( for details see Annex A ).
3.2.2 Brushes
5.2 Start the machine and let the trash and lint
for assisting in the collection of fractions from collect in their respective compartments ( for
various compartments. details see Annex A ).
5.3 Take out the lint from the delivery box and 6 CALCULATION
pass it again through the machine without dis-
turbing the trash in the settling chamber. Stop 6.1 Calculate the results as lint content, trash
the machine and collect the lint and keep it in content ( visible waste content ), and invisible
a separate container ( L1 ). waste content as percentages of the original
specimen by the following formulae:
5.4 Remove all the trash particles containing a) Lint content (L), in percent
lint from the trash tray and settling chamber
and pass it through the machine. Collect the = L1 + L-2 + L3 x 1(-J)
5.6 Collect all the trash in the trash tray, c) Invisible waste content ( W ), in percent
settling chamber and any seeds clinging to the - 100 - (L + T)
wires of the taker-in cylinder and combine where
them. Weigh them to an accuracy of 100 mg
and if the weight is less than 10 g, weigh to an L1, L,and & = mass of the lint portion in
accuracy of 10 mg ( T1 ). grams as in 5.3,5.5 and 5.7
respectively;
5.7 Pass the particles containing lint again Tr - total mass of trash portion
through the machine and ignore the trash in grams; and
collecLed. Collect the lint and keep it in a M = mass of the specimen in
separate container and weigh to an accuracy grams.
of 10 mg (LB).
NOTE - The calculation of invisible waste content
5.8 Combine all the portions of the lint ( LI, LI may be omitted if agreed between the concerned‘
and L3 ) as cpllected in 5.3, 5.5 and 5.7 and parties. In such a case, obviously, the combined mass.
of trash and lint would be less than the original
weigh to an accuracy of 10 mg. weight of the sample.
ANNEX A
( Clauses 3.2.3, 5.0, 5.1 and 5.2 )
A-l The Shirley analyser separates lint and A-5 Sveeds and settings of the Shirley analyser
trash by making use of the difference of their shall be as follows: -
buoyancies in the air. The specimen is fed to
the taker-in cylinder with the help of feed Speeds qf rev/min
roller and feed plate arrangement. The fibres Taker-in cylinder 900
are opened by the taker-in cylinder and are
carried by an air stream and deposited on a Feed roller 0.9
cage similar to a condensing screen. The air Cage 80
stream is so adjusted that it carries only the Fan 1 500
cotton fibres and dust, leaving the trash to fall
in the lower portion of the machine. The dust Motor 1 400 approx
passes through the cage to the exhaust and the Setting Between mm
fibres are collected in the delivery box.
Feed plate and taker- 0.1 (4,ZOO)
A-2 Before using the machine, the delivery box, in
trash tray, settling chamber, etc, should be Streamer plate ( lead-in 0.15 (5/l 000)
swept clean. If the machine has not already edge ) and taker-in
been used during the day, start the motor and
Streamer plate (lead-off o-2 (7/l 000)
run the machine for 2 or 3 minutes for warming
up, keeping the clutch disengaged and the feed edge ) and taker-in
roller in-operative. Stripping knife o-1 (4/l 000)
( bottom edge ) and
A-3 Spread the specimen uniformly to cover the taker-in
whole area between the guides on the feed Stripping knife 8.0 (5/16)
plate, teasing out hard lumps where necessary. ( bottom edge ) and
When making tests on slivers, short lengths cage
should be spread on the feed plate perpendi- Taker-in and cage 5-o to (13/64 to E/64)
cular to the feed roller. Open the valve to its 6.0
fullest extent, engage the clutch and observe the
character of the trash as it begins to fall into Separation sheet ( top 6-O (l/4)
the tray. Only small amounts of unopened lint edge ) and cage
should be falling with the trash in this first Delivery plate and 1.5 (l/16)
passage and, for hard cotton, it may occasion- cage
ally be necessary to tighten the loading springs
NOTES
on the feed rollers. When all the specimen has
passed under the feed roller, asindicated by the 1 Specially designed feed plate for staples above
absence of fibres under the streamer plate, 32 mm is available, the use of which minimizes fibre
disengage the clutch and close the valve breakage on long-staple cotton. It is used when fur-
ther tests are to be made on the lint portion but the
momentarily to allow the lint to be collected results of the analyser are not affected by its use. For
from the delivery box. the purpose of this test, the usual plate having a flat
striking face of 28’6 mm shall be used.
A-4 The mass of the specimen shall normally be 2 The filter bags shall be kept clean to avoid back
100 g. pressure.
The fi.bre length of cotton is directly related to coefficient of variation of length, and uniformity
its spinn’lng performance; generally speaking, index of a sample of cotton fibres, raw as well
longer cartons can be spun to finer counts. The as processed.
method of estimating fibre length or ‘staple’ of
cotton used in the trade has long been accepted The length parameters measured by different
to be liable to considerable subjective and per- instruments differ from one another, and no
sonal errors, and the need for accurate methods interrelationship can be given with sufficient
of determining the mean fibre length of cotton accuracy. However, experimental data broadly
and the proportion by weight of fibres of diffe- show that a cotton of 32 mm effective length by
rent length grades in cotton has long been the Comb Sorter may give 27 to 28 mm effec-
recogniz,ed. tive length by the Uster Staple Diagram Appa-
ratus, and 27 mm 2.5 percent span length by
The methods given are intended for the estima- the Digital Fibrograph. The mean fibre length
tion of different length, parameters like mean may be about 25 mm by the Comb Sorter, while
length, effective length, upper quartile length, the Uster instrument may give a value of
half-fall length, span length, percent short fibres, 21 mm.
as given below: 4.2.3 Using the grip, pull out small tufts of
successively shorter lengths. Comb and straigh-
a>Fibre grip, ten fibres in each tuft, and lay them side by side
on the velvet pad such that the free ends of the
b) Teasing needle,
tufts lie along a straight base line. A continuous
cl Rake to press in the fibres, array of uniform density is produced by skilfully
4 Velvet pad, and using the teasing needle and a forefinger to
Rectangular perspex scale (160 x 80 mm) arrange each tuft perpendicular to the base line
e) and joining up with the previous one. Successive
marked in 5 mm squares.
. top and bottom combs are moved as shorter
4 PROCEDURE and shorter fibres are pulled out and joined into
the pattern. The last few tufts should be very
4.1 Preparation of Aligned Tuft from the Test carefully arranged so that no short fibres are
Sample (Using Two Comb Sorters ) lost. It should also be ensured that the pattern
is of uniform density throughout as the ultimate
4.1.1 Place one sorter in a suitable position evaluation is based on this assumption.
such that the first of the bottom combs which
can be dropped in succession, faces the opera- 4.2.4 Trace the outline of the fibre array pre-
tor. Lift the upper combs, and lay the represen- pared on a sheet of translucent paper ( see
tative sliver towards the right and across the Fig. 1 ).
lower bed of combs; about 20 to 30 mm of the
sliver should project beyond the nearest comb. 5 CALCULATION AND EXPRESSlON OF
Press the sliver into the combs with the rake. RESULTS
Remove the projecting fibres with the grip, and 5.1 Calculate the following length parameters
square the sliver to obtain alignment with the from the comb sorter diagram ( Fig. 1 )*
first comb. 1
4.1.2 Place the second sorter conveniently by
the side of the first, but with the last of the
bottom combs towards the operator. Lift the
upper combs.
4.1.3 Drop the first bottom comb of the first
sorter, so that about 5 mm of the squared end
of the sliver projects out. Using the fibre grip,
remove these fibres in short draws of full width, FIG. 1 COMB SORTERDIAGRAM
5.1.1 Mean Length marking of group limits; place the comb sorter
tracing over the scale with the base line coin-
Determine the area of the comb sorter diagram ciding with the zero line, and mark off the
using either the special transparent scale or a points where the curve intersects the parallel
planimeter; divide the area expressed in square lines. Drop perpendicularsto the base line from
mm by the length of the base (mm) to obtain the marked points ( see Fig. 2 ) and record the
mean fibre length (mm-!. distances along the base in a tabular form as
given in Table 1. Calculate the mean length
5.1.2 _kfaximunt Length and coefficient of variation of length as given
in Table 1.
Determine the maximum length OA from the
tracing.
51.3 Effective Length
Mark off OU = OB/4 and erect a perpendicular 6.1 The report shall include the following infor-
mation: .
Uu’ to cut the curve at U’. UUf is equal to the
upper quartile length.
a) Mean length in mm ( rounded off to one
5.1.5 Percent Short Fibres decimal place ),
Percent short fibre equals $ x 100 where OB b) Effective length in mm ( rounded off to
one decimal place );
is the total length of the diagram.
4 Upper quartile length,
5.1.6 Fibre Length Distribution
4’ Percent short fibres ( rounded off to two
significant figures ), and
Divide the comb sorter diagram into length
groups of 4 mm interval (see Fig. 2). An impro- e) Coefficient of variation of length (rounded
;ised scale as shown in Fig. 3 can facilitate the off to two significant figures ).
Mean length = _
Zf ill =-
2 728’8
= 27’3 mm
Cfi 100
Table 1 Length-Frequency Data from Tests with Uster Staple Diagram Apparatus
( Clauses 5.1 and 5.3 )
2 035’4
Mean length ( lm ) = $!! = boo- = 20’4 mm
CfiI? - ( Zfifi )”
Zfl 47 733’2-44428’5 _ 63,047
Variance - 100
B.K_ *
Standard deviation ( U) = {Variance = 463’041 = 7’94
7’94
Coefficient of variation ( CP > ‘: +&,x 100 = - x 100 = 39 percent
20’35
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
NEPCOUNTINCOTTON
(Source : IS 684 : 1962 )
A nep is a small aggregate of entangled fibres show up as specks in yarns and fabrics and mar
rolled up into a compact mass, generally or size their appearance. It is, therefore, desirable to
not larger than a common pin-head ( say about have a method for measuring the number of
2 mm in diameter ) present in cotton. The neps neps present in cotton.
1 SCOPE 4 PROCEDURE
1.1 This standard prescribes a method for deter- 4.1 Mount the test specimens on the magnify-
mination of number of neps present in cotton. ing device. Square by square and row by
The method is applicable to cotton material at row, examine the whole cardboard and count
different stages of spinning process from raw the number of neps ( see Fig. 1 ) present. Simi-
cotton up to and including sliver. larly, determine the number of neps in the other
three test specimens. Calculate the total num-
2 APPARATUS ber of neps present in the four test specimens
and weigh them.
2.1 For the purpose of this test, the following
apparatus be used: 5 CALCULATION
a) Any convenient magnifying device ( like 5.lCa~late the nep count by the following
the microprint reader ) with a magnifica-
tion of five or more shall be used.
Nep count = $
b) A suitable balance.
where
3 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMEN
N= number of neps present in all the
3.1 Divide the reduced sample into four four test specimens (see 3.1 ); and
approximately equal parts. Open out one part w= mass in grams, of cotton material
carefully by hand and lay it evenly on a in the four test specimens.
black cardboard measuring about 20 x 10 cm.
Cover the cardboard with a perspex sheet ( of 6 REPORT
the cardboard j with one centimetre squares
marked od it. Similarly, prepare three more 6.1 The report shall include the following:
black cardboards taking for the purposes of
each cardboard, the material in any one of the
a) Nep count of the material,
three remaining parts of the reduced sample. b) Type of material ( whether raw cotton,
Each cardboard so prepared shall constitute a or card sliver or drawing sliver, etc ); and
test specimen. The four cardboards taken C) Actual magnification of the device used
together shall constitute the test sample. for counting neps.
Strength of cotton fibre contributes substan- gauge length. Fibre strength testing at zero
tially to the quality of cotton. The method of gauge length is a current commercial practice,
estimating the tenacity of cotton by testing although investigations indicate that tests at a
individual fibres is tedious and time consuming. finite gauge length of 3.175 mm ( or l/8 in) may
For both commercial and technical purposes, be more closely related to the tenacity of many
quicker methods have been developed which classes of cotton yarn.
test the fibres in the form of bundles. This
covers some such methods. International Calibration Cotton Standards
have been established to enable different opera-
The bundles of fibres may be secured by clamps tors to adjust their personal level of testing to
which are either in close contact ( zero gauge an agreed common level.
length ) or by clamps separated to give a finite
4 ADJUSTMENT AND CALIBRATION OF spacer, if any. Release the first tweezer and
THE INSTRUMENT comb the free end of the fibres gently.
5.1.2 Take the tuft offibres obtained as in 5.1.1
4.1 Adjustment of the Instrument and form it into a flat bundle of 6 mm in width.
Adjust the instrument in accordance with the The flat bundle thus obtained shall constitute a
instructions given in Annexes A and B for test specimen.
specific instrument or with the manufacturer’s 5.2 Method B
instructions.
5.2.1 The test specimen shall consist of pinches
4.2 Calibration taken from the test sample. Hold a tuft obtain-
ed by placing pinches one on top of the other
After the adjustment of the instrument, test the near the mid point in one hand between the
standard calibration cotton samples on the thumb and the forefinger and comb with a
instrument. Ensure acceptable results on the special coarse hand comb. The initial combing
standard samples before performing tests on stroke shall not be very deep, and shall be
test specimens. The results may be considered governed by the force necessary to pull the
acceptable if they do not depart by more than comb through the tuft. Each succeeding stroke
+ 5 percent from the standard values given for shall be slightly deeper, until the teeth of the
the calibration cottons. Repeat the tests on comb extend all the way through the tuft and
standard calibration cotton samples at regular the fibres have been combed close to the point
intervals to ensure a constant level of testing. held between the fingers.
4.2.1 When possible, use a standard calibration 5.2.2 Discard the fibres removed during comb-
cotton sample which has an established tenacity ing and pull away and discard the loose fibres
similar to that of the cotton being tested. from the end of the tuft. Reverse the tuft as
held in the fingers and comb the other end of
4.2.2 When the observed value differs from the the tuft in a similar manner, making certain
established value for the standard calibration that the combs have passed several times be-
cotton sample, re-check the apparatus and tween fibres at the centre.
repeat the test after making necessary adjust-
ments. If the difference still persists, the ratio 5.2.3 Condition the tuft of fibres to a state of
of the established value to the observed value moisture equilibrium in the standard atmos-
for the calibration samples shall be used as the phere.
multiplying factor for correcting the observed 5.2.4 Hold the prepared tuft between the thumb
results on test specimens. and forefinger of the left-hand about one-
fourth the distance from the end of the tuft.
NOTE - International Calibration Cotton Standards Hold the other end in the same manner and
ior tests made at zero gauge length are available from pull out a portion of fibres in the flat bundle.
the Cotton Division, Consumers and Marketing
Service, US Department of Agriculture, Memphis, 5.2.5 Hold the loose ends of fibres of the flat
Tennessee, USA. These cottons cover approximately bundle with the left-hand in the same manner as
the range of the tenacities of all commercial cottons
grown in the world. Secondary Calibration Cotton before. With the right-hand, comb the bundle of
Standards corresponding to the International Cali- the fibres with a fine comb so that all fibres not
bration Cotton Standards are proposed to be prepar- held between the fingers of the left-hand will be
ed in India. withdrawn during combing. Hold the fibre
5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS bundle again with both hands, with the bundle
narrowed to 6 mm in width and pull the other
5.0 Prepare the test specimens by one of the end of the fibres through the comb with the
two methods prescribed below. Method A is right-hand. The flat bundle thus obtained shall
preferable under tropical conditions. constitute a test specimen.
6 TEST PROCEDURE
5.1 Method A,
6.0 Make the necessary preliminary adjustments
51.1 Place the conditioned sliver or mechani- appropriate to the instruments used and carry
cally blended sample across a set of parallel out the test in Standard Atmosphere.
combs ( like a comb sorter ). Align one end of
the sliver after removing the protruding fibres 6.1 Mounting of Fibre Bundle on the Pressley
and draw a suitable tuft with the help of a Clamps ( Vice )
tweezer. Gently comb four or five. times to 6.1.1 Using Pressley Type Vice
remove the fibres not gripped by the tweezer.
Grip the combed end with another tweezer at Take a test specimen and place it in the open
such a distance from the first tweezer so as to fibre clamps at approximately the centre of the
leave fibres having length at least equal to the lower faces with the ends of the flat bundle pro-
width of the pair of clamps, along with the jecting approximately to an equal length on
each side of the clamp. Hold the bundle against ( see Note 1 under 7.1.2). Do not touch the
the vice and lower the auxiliary clamp of the fibres with, the fingers while collecting and
vice. Straighten the fibre by applying just weighing to avoid gain in weight from moisture
enough tension., Then gradually lower the top pick up.
jaws of the fibre clamps when the fibres are held
under tension. Press the top jaws to lock the 6.6 Perform the test on a total of at least 10
specimen. Tighten the jaws to a constant torque specimens.
with the help of the torque wrench, tightening a
little at a time, the screws on the two jaws in 7 CALCULATION
turn.
7.1 Breaking Tenacity
NOTE - The torque may be controlled by either a
vice-mounted torque indicating attachment or by a 7.1.1 For test made at zero gauge length, based
friction disc wrench. A torque of about 9 kgf.cm on a bundle length of 11.8 1 mm ( 0.465 in ), use
(8 lhf. in > may be used.
the following formula:
6.1.2 Using Special Vice as in Stelometer
a) For Pressley type instruments:
Grip the test specimen at one end with the Breaking tenacity ( g per tex )
sample clip. Comb out all fibres which are not
held by the clip. Holding the clip with its flat = Breaking load in lb x 5.36
site down, grip the other end of the test speci- Bundle weight in mg
men in the auxiliary clamp of the vice. Draw the
clip through the open jaws of the fibre clamps b) For Stelometer type instruments:
until it clears the jaws and falls to the recessed Breaking tenacity ( g per tex )
section of the vice. Raise the hook on the pre-
tension lever and position the sample clip = Breaking load in kg x 11.81
so that the hook passes through the hole on the Bundle weight in mg
clip. Release the hook to make the clip hang
loose!y. Close the jaws of the fibre clamps Calculate the mean of all the values and express
and tighten with the help of the torque wrench it as bre&ng tenacity of the fibres.
the jaw screws gradually till the vice starts
to rotate. 7.1.2 For tests made at a jinite gauge length of
3.175 mm ( or l/8 in ) based on a bundle length
NOTE - The torque may be controlled by either a of 15 mm ( O-590 in ), use the following for-
vice-mounted torque indicating attachment or by a
fricrion disc wrench. In order to ascertain that the mula:
elasticity of the spring remains the same, the vice-
shall be checked now and then to see that it starts to a) For Pressley type instrument:
rotate with the application of a torque of about
1’5 kgf.cm (8 Ibf. in ). Breaking tenacity ( g per tex )
where 8 REPORT
.ZF = sum of the values of the breaking load of
tufts, 8.0 The test report shall include the following:
W = weight of all the tufts,
K1 = 5.36 for tests at zero gauge length and 6’80 The average breaking tenacity (g per tex)
for tests at finite gauge length, and 4
correct to one decimal place,
2C2 = 11’81 for tests at zero gauge length and
15’00 for tests at finite gauge length.
b) Type of strength testing instrument used,
2 When the Pressley Index is found out, the indivi-
dual test values shall not have a significant difference
and
of more than fl0 percent from the average of all the
test values, 4 Gauge length used.
ANNEX A
( Clauses 1.3, 3.2, 4.1 and 6.3 )
A-O DESCRIPTION OF APPARATUS A-l.3 Release the carriage and determine the
time required by the carriage to travel from the
A-0.1 The Pressley strength tester is an inclined 5-pound reading to the 20-pound reading. If
plane fibre strength tester, with a free rolling properly adjusted, it shall take approximately
load carriage, designed to break flat bundles of one second.
cotton fibres and to indicate the load required
to cause the rupture of the flat bundle. The
beam scale is graduated in pound units. A-2 OPERATION OF THE INSTRUMENT
A-l ADJUSTMENT OF THE INSTRUMENT A-2.1 Place the clamps, with the flat bundle
A-l.1 Place a thin metal strip in the clamps to prepared as in 6.1.1, 41.2 and 6.2, in the slots
prevent movement or separation and insert the provided in the tester.
clamps in the slots provided in the tester.
A-2.2 Release the carriage by gently raising its
A-l.2 Level the instrument with the spirit-level locking lever. After the carriage stops, record
on the carriage track by turning the adjustment the breaking load from the position of the
screw on the base plate of the instrument. For carriage on the beam scale to the nearest O-1
older models, which are not equipped with the pound. If the observed breaking load does not
spirit-level, set the carriage track to an angle lie between 7 pounds to 15 pounds, discard the
of 1.5 degrees. specimen and make a new test.
ANNEX B
( CZauses1.3, 3.2, 4.1 and 6.3 )
rate of loading of 1 kg per second, that is, the B-2.2 Depress the release trigger to start the
load indicator shall travel from 0 to 7 in 7 load indicator moving across the scale. After
seconds. the bundle breaks and the indicator stops,
B-2 OPERATION OF THE INSTRUMENT record the breaking load from the position of
the indicator on the scale to the nearest 0.05
B-2.1 Place the fibre clamps with the fibre kg. If the observed breaking load is less than
bundles, prepared as in 6.1.1, 6.1.2 and 6.2, in 3 kg, discard the specimen and make a new
the slots provided in the tester. test.
‘This standard, first publised in 1955, was revised of the method of drawing test specimens from
in 1966. The standard makes hrovision for the raw wool, sliver, yarn, rovings and fabrics have
use of different types of microscopes available also been included to minimize the variation in
in the market which satisfy the basic require- results because of individual bias.
meats as laid down in the standard. The details
3.4 Cover Glass 5.1.1 Take the test sample as obtained in 5.1
above and wash it first in benzene or petroleum
50 x 35 mm size having a thickness of 0.13 to ether and then in 1 percent solution of sodium
0.17 mm. oleate at 40°C with two changes of distilled
water. Press it gently between two pads of filter
4 MOUNTING MEDIUM paper to extract water and subsequently dry it
at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.
4.1 A suitable mounting medium, such as cedar
wood oil and liquid paraffin, having the follow-
ing properties, shall be used: 5.2 Sliver
a) Refractive index between l-43 and l-53 From the bulk sample draw ten pieces of sliver
at 27”C, from different portions at random, each of
b) Suitable viscosity, approximately 600 mm length. Take out the
small portions of fibres from different places of
c) Zero water absorption, and the ten sliver pieces. Combine these portions
d) No effect on the diameter of the fibre. of fibres to form a composite sliver of about
600 mm length. This shall constitute the test
5 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS specimen.
5.1 Raw Wool 5.3 Top
Divide the mass of the samples into roughly 40
zones and take a handful of fibres from each Take four sections of sliver each about 1 metre
zone. Divide each handful into two ( taking in length from different balls of top selected at
care to avoid breaking of the fibres ) and reject random. Take only one ball from any one bale
one-half, choosing the half to be rejected at or package. Each of the four sections of the
random. If the fibres are parallel, make the sliver shall constitute the test specimen.
division into two longitudinally, that is, in a
direction which avoids selection of fibres by 5.4 Yam
their ends. Divide the retained half into two
and again reject half at random. Continue in Cut approximately 3 metre length of yarn into
this way until each portion contains about 25 at least 20 sections, if woollen spun yarn or 50
fibres. The reduced sample containing about sections if worsted spun. Then yarn sections
1 000 fibres shall constitute the test specimen. thus prepared shall constitute the test specimen.
n=E’
where
II - number of observations,
t = 1.96,
Sr’ = variance as calculated in 7.5, and
E = desired limit in microns.
7.7 If the sample size so obtained is greater
than 200, prepare another slide(s) to obtain the
required number of observations (n) as obtained
Correct Incorrect
in 7.6.
7.8 Calculate the mean fibre diameter, the
FIG. 4 CORRECTLYFOCUSEDFIBRE WITH ONE
standard deviation and percent coefficient of
SHARP EDGE AND WHITE BBCKELINE, AND
variation of the sample to two decimal places
INCORRECTLYFOCUSEDFIBRE WITH as described in Annex B.
BLACK BECKELINE
8 REPORT
7.3 Observe the following conventions in mea- 8.1 Report shall include the following informa-
suring the fibre diameter: tion:
a) Measurement shall not be made: a) Type of material,
1) at a point where fibre images cross b) Mean fibre diameter, and
one another. cl Number of observations.
ANNEX A
( Clauses 7.2 and 7.5 )
RECORD SHEET
1. l-2
2. 3-4
3. 5-6
4. 7-8 1 -5 -5 25
5. 9-10 3 -4 -12 48
6. II-12 4 -3 -12 36
7. 13-14 19 -2 -38 76
8. 15-16 15*5 #flfccHGHHcIf#u#)cH 35 _- 1 -35 35
ANNEX B
( Clause 7.8 )
1
B-2.1 Calculate, as indicated in Annex A,
the sum of the values in co1 5, 6 and 7 to obtain =2x D,+Td
[
the values of n, tlfd, 2fdY respectively.
1
cXfd
=2x Doi-- =4x c3 .
c n
b) Variance St, in microns ( 156)s
1222 - ___
200
=4x2a
200
= s ( 1 222 - 121.68 )
c) Percent coefficient of variation
= 88.026
=4x 100 :. S = 9.38
c) Percent coefficient of variation
where = &K 100
D, = assumed origin,
c = class interval, =gg x 100
There is a close correlation between the air using airflow instruments. Owing to the speed
permeability of a uniformly arranged mass of and simplicity of the method, it is particularly
textile fibres and the specific area ( area/ suitable for quality control in the mills.
volume ). For fibres of circular or near circular
cross section and constant density, such as This method is in line with IS0 1136-1976 ‘Air
unmedullated wool fibres, the surface area of permeability method for measuring the mean
.a given mass of fibres is inversely proportional diameter of wool fibres’ issued by the Interna-
to the average fibre diameter. This relationship tional Organization for Standardization.
is used for determining the wool fibre diameter
fibres, and (c) the screw cap which clamps the and of f4 mg for the constant pressure
plunger to the base. The finish shall be smooth method.
so that the plunger slides easily into the base
without trapping fibres.
3.2.3.1 Non-rotating plunger
Rotation of the plunger is possible whilst the SCREW CAP
screw cap is being screwed on to the constant
volume chamber and this can affect results. To
prevent this, a thin plate of steel is fixed to the
top of the plunger as shown in Fig. 3. This
plate is held by the operator whilst the cap is
screwed on, thus preventing rotation.
3.2.4 Reservoir ( D )
of fluid manometer as specified in Table 1
PLUNGER
mounted at sufficient height to give a clear
working distance ZH of 350 mm in the glass
limb of the manometer.
3.2.4.1 The manometer ( C ) is made of glass
tube of internal diameter at least 5 mm to
reduce surface tension effects. In both cases a
small amount of dye may be added to the
manometer fluid, and where this consists of
distilled water, a small trace of chromic acid
shall be added to give a clear meniscus. A
millimetre scale is fixed behind the limb ZH. BASE
3.2.5 Flowmeter ( F)
having the characteristics indicated in Table 1.
Table 1 Manometer and Flowmeter
Characteristics
( Clauses 3.2.4 and 3.2.5 )
4 PREPARATION OF TEST SPECIMENS 5.1 Ensure that the meniscus of the manometer
is at the zero mark and, if required, carry out
4.1 Cleaning ’ an orifice plate check as given in A-3.3.
The laboratory sample shall be about 8 g and
shall first be degreased by rinsing well in the 5.2 Pull out the weighed test specimen into a
baths each of about 200 ml of petroleum ether long thin sliver and feed it evenly into the con-
before conditioning. If the laboratory sample stant volume chamber ( A ), packing the fibres
is known to be dry-combed with fatty matter down with the packing rod from time to time.
content below 1 percent, the test specimens Insert the plunger and screw down the cap to
may be taken from it without cleaning. If the the furthermost extent so that the lip of the
laboratory sample is known to be oily with plunger is in contact with the base.
fatty matter content between 3 and 4 percent,
the test specimens may be taken from it with- 5.3 Depending on the method to be used,
out cleaning provided the apparatus has been adjust the air valve as follows:
calibrated from oil-combed slivers.
a>For constant flow method adjust the air
4.2 Number of Specimens valve until the top of the float of the
flowmeter coincides with the reference
Unless otherwise specified, test a minimum of mark Y and note the fluid level of the
two specimens for fibre diameter below 30 pm manometer to the nearest millimetre or
and a minimum of three specimens for fibre 0.1 pm ( see A-3.1 ).
diameter above 30 ccm. For constant pressure method adjust the
b)
air valve until the fluid level of the mano-
4.3 Selection of Specimens meter coincides with the 18 cm reference
Take the specimens from different places in the mark H and note the position of the float
laboratory sample. In the case of balls of sliver, of the flowmeter to the nearest millime-
the laboratory sample should be made up of tre or O-1 micron ( see A-3.2 ).
yFec;s.lyf sliver from both inside and outside of
5.4 Remove the specimen from the constant
volume chamber, tease out the fibres by hand,
4.4 Specimen Mass repack in the constant volume chamber with-
out loss of fibres, insert the plunger and screw
For the constant flow method the specimen down the cap, and note the reading again as
mass should be 1.5 g f 2 mg. For the constant before.
pressure method the specimen mass should be
2.5 g f 4 mg. 5.5 Repeat the operation 5.4 so that a total of
three readings on each test specimen is
4.5 Preparation obtained.
For slivers with cut ends, cut off with scissors 5.6 Similarly test the other test specimens as
a length to give as nearly as possible the speci- given above.
men mass, then make up to the exact mass by
adding shorter cut lengths or portions. For 6 CALCULATIONS
slivers with pulled ends, remove and discard
about live hand draws, then weigh out the 6.1 Calculate the average of the three readings
specimens by taking several successive hand for each specimen and then average of the
draws. readings for all test specimens and express the
result to the nearest 0.1 pm.
5 PROCEDURE
7 REPORT
5.0 If tests are not carried out in the standard
7.1 The report shall include the following
atmosphere for testing, condition the labora- information:
tory’sample to moisture equilibrium near the
apparatus.and note the relative humidity of the
’ atmosphere at the time of test, then correct 4 Type of material,
the final results by the factors given in b) Name of the apparatus used,
Annex B. cl Number of test specimens tested,
5.0.1 The readings of flowmeters are influenced 4 Whether the specimen was tested after
cleaning or without cleaning,
to a small extent by variations in barometer
pressure and temperature. Correction plugs e) Average fibre diameter, and
( see A-3.4 ) may be used if the variations in f 1 Whether tested in standard atmosphere
barometric pressure and temperature are .appre- or correction applied for relative humi-
ciable at the place of testing. dity.
ANNEX A t
( Clause 5 )
CALIBRATION OF APPARATUS
sion line of y on d. This is done by finding the the top of the plug sealed permanently with a
coefficients a, b, c, in the equation resin which sets at sufficiently low temperature
Y = a + bd + cda . . . to avoid damaging the fibres ( for example,
(2)
100°C ). The plug is clamped in place of the
by solving the equations :
metal plunger on the airflow apparatus and the
Zy = na + bZd x cCdz instrument reading taken several times at 27°C
Zdy = aCd + bZd2 f cgd3 when the barometric pressure is within 5 mm
Hg of the pressure at calibration. Let the’ mean
Zd”y = aBd2 + bZd3 + cZd4 reading be C pm. During any series of subsequ-
The equation (2) is then used to graduate a ent tests the plug is inserted .and a reading
scale in microns which may be fixed behind the taken. Let this be T pm. Then the results of
flowmeter. any tests are multiplied by the factor C/r.
A-3.3 Orifice Plate Checks
NOTE -A thin rubber or plastic sealing ring of
To make regular daily checks that the appa- internal diameter 25’2 mm is placed under the rim .of
ratus is in good order the use of two orifice the plug SO there is no edge leakage when clamped in
plates is recommended. These consist of alumi- position on the constant volume chamber.
nium discs of the same diameter as the inside
of the constant volume chamber, each with a
central hole. The discs have a rim which in use
rests on the annular top of the constant volume
chamber. The diameter of the central hole in
one disc is chosen to give a reading of about
one-third of the available scale on the mano-
meter ( constant flow method ) of flowmeter bSrnrn*
HOLES
( constant pressure method ) when clamped PLAN
and used in the apparatus under working condi- 3-I )c32d- r0.7
ANNEX B
( Clause A-5.0 j
CORRECTION FOR RELATIVE HUMIDITYI
B-l If tests are carried out in non-standard Relative Humidity Multiplier to Convert to
atmosphere of known relative humidity the Percent 65 Percent Relative Humidity
results in microns may be corrected by the 50 l-015
following factors, applicable to fibre diameters
between 19 and 37 microns: 55 1.010
60 1.005
Relative Humidity Multiplier to Convert to 65 l+NO
Percent 65 Percent Relative Humidity 70 0.995
75 0.988
40 1.022 80 0.980
45 1.019 85 0.969
ANNEX C
( Clause A-2.1 )
REFERENCE SLIVERS FOR CALIBRATION
C-l For calibration of the airflow apparatus as A set of eight reference slivers can be obtained
described in Annex A, laboratory samples of by appropriate laboratories on application to:
eight reference slivers are available.
Interwoollabs
The fibre diameter of each sliver has been
measured by the projection microscope in seve- 24, rue Montoyer
ral laboratories and is known accurately. 1 040 Brussels
The slivers are available in two forms: Belgium
a) Dry-combed, fatty matter content less
All such applications should state whether oil-
than 1 percent; and combed or dry-combed slivers are required, and
b) Oil-combed, fatty matter content between whether specimen masses of 1.5 g or 2.5 g are
3 and 4 percent. required.
ANNEX D
( Clause 3.2.8 )
PACKING ROD
D-l It is possible for operators to exert an fibres into the constant volume chamber. The
unduly large force during packing if a rod of cross piece prevents the rod penetrating too far
small diameter is used to compress the fibres in into the constant volume chamber.
the constant volume chamber. To avoid this,
the packing rod illustrated in Fig. 5 should The rod should be made from a non-metallic
always be used. The’operator holds the rod by substance, for example, polythene, to minimize
the long end and uses the short end to press the wear on the constant volume chamber.
Many coarse wool $ibres have a celitrai hollow ble in catpet wobls to give bulk to the yarri,
or nearly hollow, tubular spa&e known as the coverage to the carpet and resistance to crush-
medulla. A fibie either without medulla or with ing and matting. But the extent of medulla in
medulla in the form of’ a dot is clirssified as these fibres: should be within certain limits.
non-medullated fibre. A fibre with medulla Highly medullated, chalky, white, brittle fibres
whose size iS niore than a dot ‘is classified as are undesirable as they interfere in dyeing and 4
medullated fibre. Mediillated fibres are further reduce the strength of the yarn and resistance
classified i&o partially medullated and coarsely to wear of the carpets.
medullated fibres according io the width of the
me,dulla in relation jo the, width of the fibre.
The presence of medullated fibres in clothing Almost all the wool grown by indigenous sheep
wool is likely to increase the i,rregularity in breeds in India is a mixture of medullated and
rovings and yarns. non-mgdullated fibres in varying proportions.
Measurement of medullation in Indian wool is,
Carpet wools are usually mixtures of coarse therefore, important in developing the sheep
hairy medullated fibres and fine non-medullated breeds so as to grow less of coarse medullated
fibres. Coarse hairy medullated fibres are desira- wool as well as in the grading of raw wool.
= qx 100
where
ANNEX k
( czuml?3.3.1 ) -”
RECORD SHEET
Total
Fibre length is one of the factors on which the wools not suitable for combing are spun into
spinning quality of wool depends; generally coarse woollen yarn. Wool fibre is not straight;
speaking, longer wools are combed and spun its crimps and curls complicate measurement of
into comparatively fine worsted yarn and short length.
,
1 SCOPE
3 REAGENT
5.2 Draw one fibre from..the bunch and s&&h’- ,6&l Ifthe stanoard error of the mean is less
ten it out by means of the pairs of forceps, than 5 percent of the mean, report correct to
taking care not to stretch it but merely to the nearest millimetre, the mean fibre length
remove its crime. Place it on the velvet board obtained as in 6.1.
and measure iis length from end to end by
means of scale correct to one millimetre. Simi- 6.1.2 If the standard error, of the mean is equal
I&ly measure the length of each fibre in the to or more than 5 percent of the mean, make at
bunch. least 300 further observations.
7 REPORT
5.3 Test at least two more test specimens in a
similar manner as in 5.1 and 5.2. 7.1 The report shall include the following
information: ’ I
This method is in line with ISO/R 920-1969 the International Organization for Standardi-
‘Method of test for wool fibre length ( barbe zation.
and hauteur )’ using a comb sorter published by
The mean length of the fibres in a sliver or in a b) The deposition of these tufts as they are
roving, calculated from the proportions by mass drawn on to the comb bed so that the
of the fibres in the sliver or the roving. aligned ends of the combed fibres in each
tuft are placed on the last comb.
If
c>The removal of the fibres which project
beyond each comb by means of a draw-
n,, IQ = represent the number of fibres in
each length group, ing off system, starting with the longest
fibres,
L1, Ls, = represent the length of each group
of fibres, expressed in millimetres,
NOTE - A type of apparatus which performs these
al, a, = represent the linear density of operations semi-automatically is described in
fibres of each group, Annex A.
6 PROCEDURE b) Barbe, mm =
6.0The tests shall be carried out in standard RL A
atmosphere. z -10s =-1oo-
6.1 Positioning of Fibres on the Combs
c) Coefficient of variation of hauteur ( as a
Place the untwisted test piece at the position percentage ) = 2/(_4xB)-10000
specified on the apparatus for drawing off the
tufts; the end from which the fibres are to be
d) Coefficient of variation of barbe ( as a
taken should project by about 200 mm. Using
the hands and then by means of a grip square percentage ) = 100 d sA!?!? - 1
off the end by taking and discarding small quan-
tities of fibre, not exceeding 12.5 mm incre-
ments, from the over-hanging end of the test
piece until just enough tufts offibres project for Table 1
the following operations:
( Clause 7.1 )
a) Using the arip. draw off further tufts of
woorfromthe’squared-off end of the sliver
R
or roving to give a test specimen of mass Groups L L’J PO R RL r RL’
500 to 4 000 mg, and arrange it on the (Masses) (Per-
bed of combs. Bring the aligned ends of centa.
the combed fibres to the last comb. ges of
Masses
Regulate the depth of the wool in the of co1
combs by pressing with a rod or other 4)
suitable device. (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)
mm mm mg
6.2Sorting of Fibres by Length Groups 1951205 201 40 401
Lower the’combs one by one, until the ends of 185/195 191 36481
the longest fibres project beyond a single comb. 175/185 581 32 761
pljote the number of combs remaining in the 165/175 171 29 241
raised position so as to calculate from this the 1551165 161 25921
average length of the longest length group. 145/155 151 22801
Using the drawing device, draw off the project-
ing fibres. Then place them on one side for 135/145 141 19 881
weighing. Lower the next comb, again draw off 125/135 131 17 161
the projicting fibres and place them in a sepa- 115/125 121 14641
rate group for weighing. 105/115 111 12 321
6.2.1 Continue in this way until the last group 951105 101 10 201
of fibres is reached. Weigh the fibres in each 85/95 91 8 281
group to an accuracy of 1 mg.
75/85 81 6 561
7 CALCULATIONS AND EXPRESSION OF 65175 71 5 041
RESULTS 55/65 61 3 721
45155 51 2601
7.1 Presentation of Results 35145 41 1 681
The necessary information should be given in a 25135 31 661
table, an example of which is given in Table 1.
O/25 18 324
7.2 Calculation
100’00 A B c
As a function of A, B and C, calculate the
hauteur and barbe of the fibres and the corres- NOTES
ponding coefficients of variation, by application
of the following formulae: 1 The totals of co1 6, 7 and 8 are designated by the
letters, 4, B and C. Other columns may be added in
a) Huuteur, mm = order to indicate the cumulative masses and frequen-
cies ( percentage ).
100 100
---
B 2 The figures given as examples in the table refer
z --- specially to the Schlumberger apparatus.
ANNEX A
( Clause 4.1 )
A-2.1.3 Verify that all the combs are at the A-2.2.2 Depress the tist combs until the long-
same level, except for the last which should est fibres have their ends projecting beyond a
remain below the others and which will be single comb. It is essential here to evaluate
raised later. correctly the first mean of the group under con-
sideration. For this purpose, the number of
A-2.1.4 The combs are then covered with the remaining combs is taken as n, and the mean
wool automatically over the whole Iength of length of the group is taken as 10 ( p1+ 1 ),
movement of the carriage. When this operation expressed in millimetres. The value is justified
is completed, the last comb is raised to the empirically. Thus the number of groups in
level of the others. existence can be seen.
CRIMP IN WOOL
( Source : IS 6124 : 1971)
The ‘waves’ or ‘curls’ present in wool fibre are unstretched condition. Because the Indian wools
, called ‘crimp’. Uniformity and abundance of do not possess well defined ‘waves’ or ‘curls’, this
crimp are the indices of good quality wool. method is based on the later principle. The
Usually the crimp is assessed either by counting assessment of crimp, in wool fibre, is generally
the number of ‘waves’ or ‘curls’ present in the helpful to the sheep-breeder to judge the effects
fibre and expressing it as the number of ‘waves’ of pasture and cross-breeding on the quality of
or ‘curls’ per unit length or by measuring the wool. Also the evaluation of crimp in wool fibre
difference in length of fibre between its unstret- is essential for the purpose of grading wool on a
ched and stretched condition and expressing it rational and scientific basis.
as a percentage of the fibre length in the
MOISTURE IN WOOL
( Source : IS 6637 : 1972 )
Wool is a highly hygroscopic fibre and absorbs recommended for accurate determinations only.
different amount of moisture under different Method II is a simple and convenient method
atmospheric conditions. The amount of moisture for routine process control, in-plant evaluation
present in the material is important especially of moisture content of a lot and for &y other
at the time of making sales or purchases and purpose for which a high degree of remoducibi-
during process. iity-is not necessary. %tethgd I is noi suitable
for wool containing steam distillable or water-
It covers two methods. Method I is relatively soluble matter.
time consuming and costly and is, therefore,
1.1 This standard prescribes t\ivo methods for polyethylene bags or airtight jars.
determination of moisture in wool. 2.2 Reagents
1.2 These methods are applicable to wool in all 2.2.1 Toluene
forms, namely, greasy wool, scoured wool,
carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top, wool purified, water-saturated, having a boiling range
roving, etc, except that Method I is not appli- such that all distills within a range of 2°C
cable to wool containing steam-distillable or including 110.6%.
water-soluble matter and Method II is not
appli’cable to greasy wool. 2.2.1.1 Preparation
2.1.2 Distilling Receiver NOTE - The cleaning operation is not required for
subsequent observations.
of 10 ml capacity.
2.3.2 Set up a distilling apparatus for control
2.1.3 Condenser purpose and add 700 ml of water-saturated
toluene to the distilling flask. Add exactly 5.0 ml
2.1.4 Balance of distilled water from a burette or a pipette.
capable of weighing to an accuracy of 50 mg. Distil the toluene as given in 2.3.7 and 2.3.8 and
measure the volume of water collected in the
2.1.5 Heater * trap. If the volume of water is not within the
range of 4.95 to 5.05 ml, treat the toluene again
2.1.6 Water-Bath as given in 2.2.1.1.
SP15(Partl): 1989
2.3.5 Take one test specimen from the condi- NOTE - For calculation purpose, 1 ml of
tioned sample, weighing about 50 to 70 g, and water = 1 g.
determine its mass (Ms) correct to 50 mg.
2.4.2 Calculate the average moisture content
2.3.6 Transfer the test specimen immediately to and average moisture regain of all the test
the distilling flask and add 700 ml of toluene. specimens correct to one place of decimal.
Connect the flask, receiver and condenser and
place the flask on the heater. Start the flow of 2.4.3 For interconversion of moisture regain
cooling water through the condenser. Add more and moisture content values, the following
toluene through the top of the condenser until equations may be used:
the receiver trap is full of toluene and it begins
to flow to the flask. a) R -
c
100 - c x loo
2.3.7 Heat the toluene to boiling point and R
x 100
adjust the rate of distillation to 2 drops per b)c= lOO+R
second. When the rate of water accumulation
becomes less than 0.1 ml per 15 minutes, where
increase the rate of distillation to 4 drops per R = moisture regain, and
second. Wash down the condenser by pouring
toluene through the top of the condenser. C = moisture content.
Dislodge any visible drops of water with the
help of a nylon brush saturated with toluene or 3 METHOD II
with the help of a copper wire.
3.0 Outline of the Method
2.3.8 Continue distillation until there is no A specimen of wool is weighed and then dried
noticeable change in the level of meniscus for to constant mass in an oven at 105’C. The loss
a period of 15 minutes. Separate the receiver in mass of the specimen is taken as the loss of
containing water and toluene from the flask moisture and then calculations are made for
and condenser. Keep the receiver in the water- moisture regain and moisture content on this
bath at room temperature for about 30 minutes basis.
and read the volume of water ( V) correct to
0.05 ml., 3.1 Apparatus
2.3.9 Similarly test at least 6 more test speci- 3*1*1 Drying Oven
mens. preferably of ventilated type, capable of main-
taining an inside temperature of 105 to 110°C
2.4 Calculations and preferably fitted with weighing balance
capable of weighing to an accuracy of 50 mg.
2.4.1 Calculate the moisture content and mois-
ture regain by the following formulae: 3.1.2 Specimen Containers
a) Moisture content, percent of perforated metal if the weighing is to be
carried out inside the drying oven, or capable
of being sealed if the specimen is to be cooled
= [S; (& - 1) + l] x 100 in a desiccator before weighing.
The ‘oiled-plate method’ is the preferred this parameter is also used by the industry dur-
method in terms of accuracy. Method for deter- ing process control in addition to the main
mination of percentage of longer fibres has also method described.
been given in Annex A for information, since
Keeping this end of the fibre in position with NOTE -The measurement of the fibre lengths
the pointed end of one of the sticks apply the recorded can be strongly influenced by the decriml
pointed end of the other stick to the other end ping operation and by any excessive stretching. The
quality of the operator’s work and the accuracy of
of the fibre and straighten out the fibre pro- the lengths reported should be checked, for instance
gressively by moving it to the right. by placing a certain number of fibres between two
glass plates and measuring their lengths precisely
with the aid of an enlarger and a map-measurer
Read off the length of the one fibre when it has before determination according to the relevant
been fully straightened out between the pointed procedure.
ends of the two sticks.
3.4 Method A-2 Self-adhesive’ Tape Method
3.3.2 Using Tweezers
3.4.1 Apparatus
3.3.2.1 With a pair of tweezers in each hand,
take the fibres, such that, one end of the fibre a) Transparent self-adhesive tape
being held with one pair of tweezers, and the
other end with the other pair. b) Scissors or blade
3.5 Calculations 3.5.3 Carry out two tests according to 3.3 and
calculate parameters as per 3.4 for these tests.
3.5.1 Mean Length, Standard Deviation and Determine average values of each parameters.
Coefficient of Variation
3.6 Report
Group the individual length values in classes
with class interval of 1 mm for a nominal length 3.6.1 The report shall include the following
less than 45 mm, 2 mm for nominal length information:
between 46 and 80 mm, and 5 mm for a nominal
length above 80 mm. The middle point of the 4 Mean length ( mm j rounded off to one
class interval, denoted by ( Li ) shall be taken decimal p&e, ’
to be the length of each fibres in that class. Let b) Standard deviation rounded off to two
ni denote the number of fibres in the 1st class. decimal places,
The mean fibre length, standard deviation and-
c) Coefficient of variation rounded off to two
coefficient of variation shall be calculated by
decimal places, and
the following:
4 Modal length rounded off to one decimal
k place.
I 1
4 Li I
I c 4 METHOD B ARRAY METHOD
i=l i
Meanlength( 1 k
4.1 Apparatus
1
i ni I
I c 4.1.1 Sample Fibre Sorter and Accessories
1 i-l 1
where k is number of classes. 4.1.2 Velvet Plus
I J
ANNEX A
( Clause 4.5.1 >
DETERMINATION OF PERCENT LONGER FIBRES
A-I PRINCIPLE A-4.2 Drop the gill pins until the first set of
The fibres exceeding the rated length by more fibre protrude beyond the remaining gill
than 10 mm are termed as ‘ longer fibres ‘. The section.
percentage of longer fibres is the ratio of the A-4.3 Set the step opposite the first gill pin to
longer fibres to the total number of fibres multi- the distance given by the following formula:
plied by 100.
Distance ( mm ) = length ( mm ) of grip +
A-2 APPARATUS nominal length ( mm )
A-2.1 Staple Fibre Sorter and Accessories of fibres + 8 mm
adjustable stop, depressor, special fibre grip or A-4.4 Pull the fibres using the grip up to the
tweezers. stop. The longer fibres will remain in gill even
after taking grip upto the stop. Remove these
A-2.2 Black Velvet Plush fibres and lay them on velvet plush. Confirm
A-2.3 A Scale the longer fibres by measuring their length with
graduated in millimetres. a scale.
A-2.4 Analytical Balance A-4.5 Having pulled all the fibres projecting
beyond the gill section, lower the first gill, set
graduated in milligrams. the stop to the next gill and repeat the proce-
A-3 TEST SAMPLE dure. Continue this procedure until the fibre
tuft remaining in the gill section is smaller than
A-3.1 Take a fibre bundle from a representative the rated length plus 10 mm.
sample comprising about 30 000 fibres. The
mass of the sample to yield about 30 000 fibres A-5 CALCULATION
is calculated from the formula: w x 9 000
A-5.1 Total number of fibres =
Mass(mg)= 3;3d;ngminal length ( mm ) ( Lxd >
. where
A-3.2 Parallelize the fibres by hand and divide W = mass ( mg ),
the sample into bundle of 100 to 150 mg. L = rated length ( mm ), and
A-4 PROCEDURE d - denier.
A-5.2 Percent longer fibres
A-4.1 Place the bundle in the maximum
decrimped condition in the gill section of the’ I Number of longer fibers x loo
sorter. Total number of fibres >
..
1 SCOPE where
M -_ moisture regain of viscose rayon
1.1 It prescribes methods for determining the staple fibres,
following characteristics of viscose rayon staple
WI - original weight of the sample in g,
fibres :
and
4 Moisture regain; W, = dry weight of the sample in g.
b> Fibre length;
2.2 Fibre Length
4 Denier;
d) Strength and elongation of single fibre : 2.2.1 From the test sample, take a tuft of fibres
1) Dry strength and elongation, and whose weight is determined according to the
2) Wet strength and elongation; following formula:
z denier x nominal length in mm
e) Bundle strength ( dry ); Weight, mg-
3
f ) Percentage of finish;
NOTE - This will yield approximately 3 000 fibres.
g>Ash content; and
h) Detection of abnormal fibre. This weight of fibre shall constitute the test
specimen. Open up the test specimen. Spread
2 TEST METHODS it on a velvet and take 500 fibres at random
using tweezers to pick them up near their
2.1 Moisture Regain middles. Place each fibre on a sheet of glass
oiled with liquid paraffin or any other suitable
2.1.1 Drying-Oven ’ oil and straighten it, removing the crimp com-
pletely but taking care not to stretch the fibre.
Suitable for drying the specimen to constant Immediately, the fibre has been. straightened,
weight at 105 to ilOX! and equipped with a measure its ‘length to an accuracy of 0.5 mm.
weighing balance capable of weighing the speci- Group the measurements in classes with class
men to an accuracy of 0.05 g while suspended interval of 1 mm for a nominal length of less
within the drying chamber; the holder of the than 45 mm, 2 mm for nominal length between
specimen should be of such a type to ensure 46 and 80 mm and 5 mm for a nominal length
free access of the dry air to all portions of above 80 mm.
specimen.
2.2.2 Calculation
2.1.2 Procedure
The middle point of the class interval, denoted
Divide the gross sample into approximately two by I, shall be taken to be the length of each
equal parts and weigh them accurately. Place fibre in that class. Let nt denote the number of
each part in the sealed containers; one of these fibres in the ith class. The mean fibre
shall be taken for testing and the other shall be E$$l,L shall be calculated by the following
kept in reserve in case confirmatory test be-
comes necessary.
k
2.1.2.1 Dry the sample to constant weight in .m 4
the drying-oven and determine the dry weight L_ -- i&l
of the sample. k
Zn1
NOTE - Constant weight shall be deemed to have i = 1
been reached if the difference between two successive
weighings taken at an interval of 20 minutes is less where k is number of classes.
than 0’1 percent of the first of the two weighings.
2.2.2.1 Calculation’ of modal length
2.1.3 Determine the moisture regain of viscose
rayon staple fibres as given below : Find out the class interval for which the num-
ber of fibres nl is maximum. The middle point
M= w1-
w wa100
a
x of this class interval shall be taken as the modal
or effective length.
This is aimed at obtaining instrumental measures minimum of efforts and where scoring could be
for characteristics of jute, MESTA and BIMLI possible, have been selected after survey of the
fibres for the purpose of grading. To achieve work done by research institutions, the publish-
this aim only those methods, which are simple ed literature and also keeping in view the type
and could be adopted by the graders with the of instruments available with the industry.
1 SCOPE strand from one end to the other with the help
of a tape correct to 05 cm ( L ).
1.1 This standard prescribes a method for the
determination of reed length of jute, MESTA 3.2 Effective Reed Length
and BIMLI fibre strands. Measure the length of the root ( Ll) and crappy
end portion ( LI ) correct to 0.5 cm. Determine
2 EQUIPMENT the effective reed length by the following
formula:
2.1 The following equipment are required:
Effective reed length = L - ( L1 + L, )
a) A smooth platform or floor,
b) Measuring tape, and 3.3 Repeat the test with the remaining test
specimens and determine the average of all the
c) A pair of scissors. values.
3 PROCEDURE 4 REPORT
3.1 Reed Length 4.1 The report shall include the following
information:
Lay the fibre strand on a smooth horizontal a) Average reed length,
platform or floor. Remove any kinks or bends
with minimum tension without unduly stretch- b) Average effective reed length, and
ing the fibre strand. Measure the length of the c) Size of the sample ( strands ).
1 SCOPE 4 CALCULATIONS
I.1 This standard prescribes a method for the 4.1 Calulate the percentage of centre-root,
determination of defects ( centre root, crop- crop-end, runner and hunka of the individual
end, runners and hunka ) in the jute, MESTA test specimens as folloWs:
and BIMLI fibre strands.
a) Centre-root, Pr = 7Wl x 100
2 EQUIPMENT ~
3.1 Take a test specimen consisting of full 4.2 Determine the percentage of total defects
length reeds and determine its mass to an by adding P1, Pz, Ps and Pg.
accuracy of 1 g ( W).
4.3 Determine the average of all the values.
3.2 Cut the centre-root and crop-end portions
and keep them separately. Determine the mass 5 REPORT
of the centre-root ( W, ) and crop-end ( W,) to 5.1 The report shall include the following
an accuracy of 1 g. information:
3.3 Separate out the runners from the cut a) Average percentage of:
fibres, if any, determine its mass to an accuracy 1) centre-root,
Of18(W3)*
2) crop-end,
3.4 Remove the hunka from the cut fibres, and 3) runner, and
determine its mass correct to 1 g ( W,). 4) hunka;
3.5 Repeat the test with the remaining test b) Average total defects: and
specimens. c) Size of the sample ( strands ).
ANNEX A
( Clause 3.1 )
-
-
IF’ --- -9 7/
-
r-
29s
I‘
SP 15 ( Part 1) : i989
PART 1. SECTIQN
I
D/22-7 209
BP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
5.5 Test at least 3 groups of 5 specimens each between 35 to 75 nrecent, the correction
in similar manner. for breaking load ;alne is. small and may
be ignored.
6 CORRECTION FACTORS The corrected values of mass and break-
ing load shall be used in the formula
6.1 In case standard atmospheric conditions given in 7.1.
are not available, the samples may be condi- _
tioned and tested at the prevailing atmospheric 7 CALCULATION
conditions and the prevailing relative humidity
shall be noted and correction applied for mass 7.1 Calculate the tenacity of the fibre by the
and breaking load as given below: following formula:
50* x T
a) Correction for mass -~ Convert the mass Tenacity ( in g/tex ), S = M
of fibre bundles as obtained in 5.4.1 to
equivalent mass at 65 percent relative where
humidity. For this purpose, the equili- T = sum of the breaking load values of
brium moisture regain for jute corres- 5 bundles ,of fibres in kgf, and
ponding to prevailing RH, will require to
be determined from the regain humidity M = total mass of all the bundles in
curve for jute or by using a suitable milligrams.
moisture regain meter. For example, if 7.2 Determine the average value of tenacity S
the moisture regain at the prevailing from at least 3 sets of readings.
RH is R the corrected mass at 12 percent
moisture regain corresponding to 65 per- NOTE - When the difference between any two values
cent RH will be given by the formula of tenacity (S ) exceeds 15 percent of the mean,
another value for S should be obtained and the
Mx (100-c 12) average of four readings shall be reported.
100 + R 8 REPORT
( 12 is the approximate moisture regain
of jute at 65 percent relative humidity ). 8.1 The report shall include the following
information:
b> Correction for breaking load - Convert
the breaking load values obtained in 5.3 a) Type of machine,
for the difference in relative humidity to b) Number of test specimens tested, and
breaking load at 65 precent relative
humidity by multiplying with the appli- c) Tenacity.
cable correction factor as given in Annex *This has been obtained by multiplying length by 10.
A. However, if the relative humidity is The length indicated in 4.1 [ a ( 2 ) I is 5 cm.
ANNEX A
[ Clause 6.1 (b) ]
ANNEX A
( Clauses 3.1, 4.1 and 5.1 )
A-1.1.1 The calibrated section of the msnome- to the top. Stop squeezing and the float will
ter is inclined ( horizontal gradient 1 in 5 ) in start descending. Observe the position of
order to increase the sensitivity and spread out manometer liquid. At a certain point the
the scale. manometer reading will remain steady for a
while. Note the denier reading corresponding
A-2 OPERATING PROCEDURE to this position of the manometer liquid.
A-2.1 Level the instrument with the help of the A-2.6 Remove the specimen, Buff it out and
levelling screws and a spirit level. repeat for a repeat test.
A-2.2 Collect about 40 g of raw jute after pro-
per sampling. Cut the fibre to approximately A-2.7 Repeat as in A-2.6. Altogether take 3
1 cm pieces. Mix the cut fibres thoroughly and readings for each specimen.
tease out by hand.
A-2.8 Repeat the test for the other two speci-
A-2.3 Divide the cut sample into 3 sub-samples. mens as in A-2.3 to A-2.7.
Weigh one specimen of 8.65 g from each sub -
sample. A-2.9 Find the average of the 9 readings.
ANNEX B
( Clauses 3.1, 4.1 and 5.1 )
B-l DESCRIPTION OF THE INSTRUMENT B-1.1.2 For refilling the tank Tl the receiver T,
is hung upside down from a hook N above the
B-l.1 Air Flow Pr&ction Arrangement tank Tl into which the receiver empties itself
through the same rubber tube E. The tank T,
The aspirator ( I in Fig. 2 ) is a wide flat tank has two openings, II and Ia, at the top, I1 having
T1 of 400 cm2 area with a narrow outlet O1 of a tap, and one outlet with a tap at the bottom.
6 mm diameter. The tank is raised to suitable The inlet tube I, is connected to the regulating
height ( 40 to 50 cm ) by a stand the outlet at valve Y and the other parts of the instrument,
O2 being extended below by a rubber tube E. through it air is sucked in as water flows out of
This provides for a higher water head without the tank. The tap I, provides an opening to the
having to handle a large quantity of water. atmosphere during refilling. In the receiver T,
also the side opening B maintains a connection
B-1.1.1 To maintain a constant water head, the between the inside and the outside atmosphere.
top level drop has been neutralized by pulling The specification of the flow system are such
down the end of the outlet rubber tube to some that a maximum flow rate of about 15 ml per
extent, such that the difference in water head second can be mentioned for 25 seconds.
( H ) between the water level in the tank and
the tip of the outlet 0, remains constant. This El.2 Flow Gauge!
has been achieved by a simple device. The end
0, of the outlet rubber tube is attached to the The flow gauge ( II in Fig. 2 ) is essentially a
top opening of the receiver T, hung from a manometer ( F1, F2 ), attached tb the two ends
spring. The spring is so adjusted that the weight of a glass wool plug, or an equivalent glass or
of liquid being drained into the receiver is suffi- brass capillary tube Win a glass tube. For a
cient to extend the spring by an amount equal particular flow rate through the plug, a diffe-
to the drop in the liquid level in the Tl. The rence of pressure develops between the ends
constant level difference thus maintained of the plug and is indicated in this manometer.
ensures constant rate of flow. This manometer is calibrated in terms of flow
rate, since pressure difference is proportional to
*Mention of the name of a specific ( or proprietary ) the flow rate. The packing of the glass wool
instrument is not intended to promote, or give prefer-
ence to the use of that instrument over others not plug may be altered for different ranges of flow
mentioned. rate.
FIBRE IN CELL
I n
I Aspirator 1, Tap
II Flowmeter II Inlet tube
III Plug chamber J Stand
IV Manometer N Hook
B Side opening ‘01 Narrow outlet
C Chamber 02 End of the rubber tube
C1 Plug cell PI, PI Pressure gauge
CI Centre open screw cap T1 Tank
E Rubber tube Ta Receiver
F1, Fz Manometer W Glass wool plug
H Water head Y Regulating valve
FIG. 2 INSTRUMENT FOR FIBRB FINENESS DETBRMINATION
B-1.2.1To increase the sensitivity of the flow connects the chamber to the manometer and
gauge manometer, the area of limb F, is made the other parts of the instrument.
much larger than that of the other, such that
the depression in the wider limb is negligible in B-l.4 Pressure Gauge
comparison to the elevation of the liquid in The pressure gauge P1, Pz ( IV in Fig. 2 ) is a
the narrow limb, and further, the narrow limb manometer used for registering the difference of
is kept inclined at 60” to the vertical. A sliding pressure between the two ends of the fibre plug.
scale is placed beside the narrow limb. The One end of the manometer as well as the fibre
zero of the scale is made to coincide with the plug is open to the atmosphere. The design of
liquid meniscus before starting the test. If the the gauge is exactly similar to that of the mano-
meniscus level falls below a mark, some liquid meter used for the flow gauge. The zero of the
may be added into the wider limb. The glass scale always set at the liquid meniscus before
wool plug is so adjusted that the flow gauge the experiment is started.
manometer reading is changed from 0 to 26 cm
with increase in flow rate from 0 to 15 ml per B-2 FIBRE CUTTER
second. B-2.1 For a 5-cm plug cell, the fibre bundle has
El.3 Fibre Plug and the Chamber to be cut to 5 cm length. Fibre cutter ( Fig. 3 )
consists of a channel of rectangular cross
A plug is formed of parallel fibre bundles. Such section with a closely fitting plunger both cut
a plug is introduced longitudinally into a cylin- exactly to 5 cm length. The fibre is placed
drical cell C1 of 1.25 cm diameter and 5 cm longitudinally in the channel with ends project-
length ( 111 in Fig. 2 ). At one end, the cell has ing on both sides. The plunger is then
a flange which can be pressed air-tight on the pressed by a crew, from the top. The projecting
rubber ring over the rim of a wider chamber C ends of the fibres are then cut flash with the
by a centre open screw cap 2. channel ends by a chisel and hammer. The rota-
B-1.3.1 The chamber is thus open to the atmos- table rectangular frame through which the crew
phere at the top, and a small tube at the bottom works can be turned aside when the fibre is put
in the channel. The plunger is provided with a B-4.1.2 The water aspiration system is replaced
projection ( not shown in Fig. 3 ) across the by a suction pump which is connected to the
length to prevent tilting. regulating valve Y. The suction pump is run on
and the regulating valve Y opened slowly to
B-3 OPERATION OF THE INSTRUMENT obtain a steady pressure difference in the U-
B-3.1 A group of raw jute fibre samples is cut tube manometer. The two liquid columns in the
to 5 cm length by the cutter and exactly 3 g are U-tube may be made level again by letting in
weighed out of it to form the test bundle. This air through the screw clip on the T-tube.
mass is found suitable for the size of the plug B-4.1.3 The steady pressure difference in the
cell used and is also specific for a particular U-tube manometer is 9 cm with a manometric
calibration. The bundle is wrapped tightly in a liquid ( kerosene oil ) of specific gravity O-82.
paper strip and introduced into the plug cell Cl. The corresponding pressure gauge reading on
The paper is then taken out or torn off by the instrument is then marked on a scale placed
pushing the bundle gently either way, keeping beside it. For subsequent reading of the flow
the fibre ends flush with the cell ends. The cell
is then fitted air-tight onto the chamber C. gauge, the air suction through the valve Y
should be controlled so as to give this particu-
B-3.1.1 The tank T, is filled with water and the lar valve of steady pressure on the pressure
top tap I, is closed. With the receiver on the gauge manometer of the instrument.
spring S, the outlet tap 0,. is opened. The regu- B-4.2 Calibration of the Flow Gauge Manometer
lating valve Y is then manipulated to attain a
fixed difference of pressure indicated on the B-4.2.1 Take a vertically mounted rotameter
pressure indicated on the pressure gauge. Imme- ( a flowmeter having a rotating indicator of air-
diately the flow gauge reading is taken. flow ) and conne,ct a rubber tubing at the lower
end. Clamp on the rubber tubing a screw clip
to regulate Bir flow through the rotameter.
B-4.2.2 Disconnect the U-tube manometer and
connect the upper end of the rotameter to this
point. Run on the suction pump. Adjust the
control valve Y and the screw clip of the rubber
tubing attached to the rotameter alternately so
as to have different flow rates at the particular
steady pressure indicated by the pressure gauge
manometer of the instrument (corresponding to
a pressure head of 9 cm in the U-tube mano-
meter referred to ).
B-4.2.3 Note down the rate of air flow in the
rotameter, and mark this flow on the scale
beside the flow gauge manometer of the instru-
ment. A number of flow rates all at the
RECTANGULAR steady pressure difference, are thus marked on
the flow gauge scale. A calibration curve is
drawn relating flow rates (ml/s ) and scale
length ( cm ) of the flow gauge. This calibration
curve is used to find out the different ‘tex’
values corresponding to the different flow rates
by using the formula, tex =;i O-283 x flow in
ml/s. The flow gauge scale is then calibrated
directly in terms of tex values.
FJG. 3 FIBRBCUTTER B-5 SENSITIVITY OF THE INSTRUMENT
B-4 CALIBRATION OF ThE INSTRUMENT B-5.1 Since both the pressure and the flow
B-4.1 Calibration of the Pressure Gauge Mano- gauges are sensitive enough to detect a change
meter of 1 mm in reading, the approximately error of
observation is not likely to excceed 2 percent,
B-4.1.1 The fibre plug chamber C is disconnect- when the pressure gauge stands at 18.0 cm and
ed and the instrument connected to a vertically the flow gauge between 6-O and 26-O cm. Consi-
mounted U-tube manometer through the leg of dering the variation within a sample: this order
a T-tube. One end of the head piece of the of sensitivity seems to be sufficient for textile
T-tube is connected to the U-tube manometer fibres. A 3-g bundle may be made to represent
and the other end closed air-tight by means of as many regions as possible, to minimize the
a screw clip on a rubber tubing. variation between readings.
1 Indian Kapok ( to the common man known as various applications. These tests are critical for
silk ‘cotton ) is used for stuffing purposes in assessing the grades of kapok. ]
1 CONDITIONING OF TEST SPECIMENS NOTE - Weights made of copper or its alloy shall
be used for the purpose of this test.
1.1The test specimens shall be conditioned in
standard atmosphere of 27 f 2% temperature 2.2 Place additional weights on the base of the
and 65 f 2 percent relative humidity for dead mass under water, till with the addition of ,
24 hours. a further 5 g mass, the bag starts’ sinking.
2 BUOYANCY RATIO BEFORE SOAKING 2.3 Note this mass as the total mass ( including
2.1 Weigh accurately a 40 g sample of kapok. the dead weight ) which the bag can support.
Fill it in a muslin or cambric bag 15 x 15 cm
when measure flat. The bag shall be provided 2.4 Calculate the buoyancy ratio before soaking
with a loop by stitching a tape measuring of kapok by the following formula:
2 x 1 cm on one of its surfaces at the centre of
Wl(1
the bag ( see Fig. 1 ). Stitch the mouth of the Buoyancy ratio before soaking = w- l/d)
c I
---I
I
I
I 3.1 Keep in bag containing kapok ( see 2.2 )
I
I completely immersed in water with the help of
I
I a sinker for 72 hours. After the expiry of
I 72 hours, remove the sinker and allow the bag
0
I
15cm 1 I to float on the surface of water.
I
I
I I 3.2 Suspend the dead mass arrangement from
the loop of the bag and start placing additional
L\--__-__-____I 15 cm
slotted mass on the base of the dead mass till
the bag just begins to sink ( see also 2.2).
3.3Note this mass ( including the dead mass )
as the mass which the bag can support.
FIG. 1 BUOYANCY BAG
3.4 Calculate the buoyancy ratio of kapok after
soaking by the following formula:
W, (1 - l/d)
Buoyancy ratio after soaking =
W
where
W:, = mass, in grams, which the bag can
support ( see 3.3 );
d = specific
gravity of the weights
used; and
FILLED WITH KAPOK
W = mass, in grams of kapok (see 2.1).
4 PERCENTAGE OF IMPURITIES
HOOKED DEAD WEIGHT
FIG. 2 BUOYANCY BAG SHOWING 4.1 Take a test specimen weighing approximate-
ARRANGBMBNT FOR WEIGHT ly 10 g and determine its mass accurately. Tease
( The test is a critical assessment in grading of coir fibres used for various applications. )
(The impurities in natural fibres plays an for computing the impurities present. This also
important role on the quality of yarn produced. have an important relevance during commercial
The test is more relevant to mechanically ’ transactions. )
extracted fibres like coir and other related fibres
( The moisture content in natural fibres has an the commercial field. The test is suitable for
important relevance on the repeatability and natural fibres other than cotton viz, bristle
reproduceability of physical tests, and also in fibres. )
2 PROCEDURE
CHEMICALTESTSFORTEXTILEFIBRES
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
SP 15 ( P-t i) : 1989
In the cellulosic textile industry, cellulose in tent of carboxylic acid groups. The absorption
the form of fibres, yarn and fabric comes in con- of metallic ions from aqueous solutions of their
tact with different oxidizing agents during the salts is an outstanding property of oxycelluloses.
various chemical processing treatments. The This property in celluloses and oxycelluloses is
action of these oxidizing agents on cellulose due to the presence of carboxylic acid groups in
may result in the formati0.n of oxycelluloses of them. The estimation of carboxylic acid groups
acidic character attributable to the introduction present in cellulosic textile materials is a
of carboxyl groups into the cellulose chain method of determining the extent of this type of
molecule. Purified cotton cellulose, not subject- oxidation of cellulose. This is a useful supple-
ed to any treatment with oxidizing agents, also mentary test to other tests such as copper
behaves as though it possesses a very small con- number and fluidity tests.
1 SCOPE 5 REAGENTS
Standardize against standard thiosulphate calculate the oven-dry mass of the cation-free
salution. specimen taken for the test ( see 6.2 ).
5.2.4 Starch Solution 6.5 Repeat the test with the remaining test
specimen(s). ,
0.2 percent (m/v).
7 CALCULATION
5.2.5 Hydrochloric Acid Solution
approximately 0.5 N. 7.1 Calculate the carboxylic acid group content
of each specimen, in mill&equivalents of
6 PROCEDURE COOH per 100 g, of the sample, by the follow-
ing formula:
6.1 Take one test specimen and steep it for
2 hours in 0.5 N hydrochloric acid at room tem- Carboxylic acid group content, expressed
perature, keeping the material to liquor ratio as milli-equivalents of COOH per 100 g of ,
as 1 : 50. Wash the specimen on a suction filter sample
thoroughly with distilled water till the washings
= (V, - V,) x N x 100
are neutral ( as indicated by bromocresol pur- M
ple ). Dry the specimen in air.
where
NOTE - The above treatment renders the specimen
cation-free. vr = quantity in millimetres of iodine
solution required for the blank
6.2 Transfer from the automatic burrette 50 ml
( see 6.3 ),
of the solution prepared as in 5.2.1 to the
Erlenmeyer flask. Weigh accurately 0.5 to 1.0 g v, = quantity in millimetres of iodine
of air-dry cation-free specimen ( see 6.1) and solution required for aftual test
transfer it to the flask. Stopper the flask, shake ( see 6.2 ),
it gently to mix the contents thoroughly and N= normality of iodine solution, and
immerse it in a water-bath maintained at
M= oven-dry mass in gram of the
60 f 1°C for 1 hour. Cool the flask quickly and
cation-free specimen taken for the
titrate the excess of thiosulphate solution
against 0.02 N iodine solution using starch as test ( see 6.4 ).
indicator. Bubble by means of a compressor or a 7.2 Calculate the average of the values obtained
vacuum pump or a water jet pump carbon as in 6.1.
dioxide-free air through the mixture throughout
the titration. 8 REPORT
6.3 Carry out a blank titration following the The report shall include the following:
same procedure ( see 6.2 ) but without the test
specimen. a) Type of material,
6.4 Determine the moisture content of the b) Carboxylic acid group content, and
cation-free material ( see 6.1) separately and c) Number of specimens tested.
ANNEX A
( Clause5.1.2 )
Acetic acid content of acetate or triacetate lose and is useful in ascertaining chemicai
fibres is an important parameter for controlling damage to acetate or triacetate fibres during
the degree of acetylation of regenerated cellu- processing by cuprammonium fluidity test.
3 APPARATUS 6 PROCEDURE
3.1 Weighing Glass 6.1 Dry the test specimen ( 5.1) in the weighing
glass at 105 f 2°C temperature in a drying oven
3.2 Desiccator with Blue Gel Filling to constant mass. The mass shall be taken as
constant when the difference between two
3.3 Analytical Balance with an accuracy up to
successive weighings at an interval of 20
Img minutes does not exceed 0.1 percent. Cool the
3.4 Air Drying Oven Capable of Maintaining at dried test specimen in the desiccator and weigh
105 &- 2°C it correct to 1 mg.
3.5 1 000 ml Measuring Flask 6.2 Transfer the weighed test specimen ( 6.1 )
into a 200 ml Erlenmeyer flask. Add to it
3.6 200 ml Erlenmeyer Flask with Ground 50.0 ml of 1 M alcoholic potash lye, close the
Stopper flask and leave it for 48 hours at room tempe-
3.7 50 m4 Pipette rature. Then add to it 50.0 ml of 1 M hydro-
chloric acid, shake the flask thoroughly for 5
3.8 Burette minutes and leave it for one more hour at room
temperature.
3.9 1 000 ml Erlenmeyer Flask
6.3 Wash the contents of the Eilenmeyer flask
4 REAGENTS with about 500 ml of distilled water in the
4.0 Quality of Reagents 1 000 ml Erlenmeyer flask.
Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall 4.4 Titrate the contents of the flask ( 6.3 ),
be employed in tests and distilled water shall be after addition of three drops of phenolphathe-
used. lein solution with 1 M of caustic soda lye.
6.5 Find out the amount of caustic soda lye E- the weighed amount of; the dried
used in ml. f&re material in g as obtained in
I . .
6.6 Repeat the procedure from 6.1 to 6.5 with
other test specimens and find the amount of
caustic soda lye consumed, in ml, for each test 7.2 Find out the average acetic acid content,
specimen. percent of the fibre material.
7 CALCULATION
8 REPORT
7.1 Calculate the acetic acid content of all the
test specimens separately with reference to The test report shall indicate the following:
dried fibre material by the formula:
where
b) Acetic acid content, percent, rounded to
Q = the amount of 1 M caustic soda three significant figures ( individual
lye in ml ( see 6.5 and 6.6 ), and values and the mean value separate ).
Cotton fibres are liable to be attacked and cularly the cotton bolls suffer microbial attack
damaged by micro-organisms, such as bacteria by micro-organisms from soil or environment.
and fungi at three stages (i) during cultivation The extent of damage is governed by the micro-
as cotton bolls on plants, (ii) after harvest as climate and the type of plant.
KAPAS in the farm storage, and (iii) as lint
Fungi may appear as fine downy growth or as
during transit and storage in godown. The dark spots or stains causing discolouration of
deterioration is promoted by climatic condi-
fibres and forming fibrelocks in cotton bolls.
tions prevalent in tropical and subtropical
Mould growth may affect bunch of fibres in
countries.
limited and isolated regions with no tendering
Moisture is essential for the development and in between two such regions. But if the fibres
growth of micro-organisms, the amount of mois- had been in contact with soil or contaminated
ture required being dependent upon the type of with it and then exposed to dampness, the
organisms. Thus, fungi usually develop when entire fibre or whole of fibrelocks may show
the relative humidity of the environment appro- uniform tendering.
aches about 75 percent and the growth is rapid
when the relative humidity is above 85 percent. The degree of growth of micro-organisms as
well as their tendering effect may differ widely
Bacteria, on the other hand, are active only
from fibre to fibre and within a fibreitself. It is,
when the substrate on which they are present is
therefore, not necessary to submit the results
itself wet.
of tests prescribed in this method to statistical
During cultivation the cotton plants and parti- analysis.
Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall Prepared by making a 2 percent solution of
be employed in tests and distilled water shall Congo red ( Colour Index No. 22120 ) in water.
be used where the use of water or distilled
water as a reagent is intended. 3.6 Caustic Soda Solutions
The following apparatus shall be used: 4.3.2 Take a sufficient number of fibres from
four test specimens and place them in a watch-
a) Electrical pH meter or Lovibond compa-
glass. Treat the fibres with a few drops of
rator, and cotton blue-lactophenol solution for 1 to 2
b) Microscope with a magnification range minutes. Remove the colour from the surface
of 50 to 900. of the fibres by treating them with lactophenol
4.2 Procedure solution. Mount these fibres on a number of
glass slides in lactophenol and examine them
4.2.1 Draw about one gram of the fibres from under the microscope.
one of the specimens drawn as in 2.1, place it
NOTE -A magnification of 50 to 500, should be
in a clean, dry, wide-mouthed glass-stoppered used for deiection of damage due to fungal attack
bottle ( 50 ml capacity ) and leave it at room and a magnification of 500 to 900 should be used for
temperature ( temperature range 25-28°C ) for detection of damage due to bacterial attack.
three hours. Remove the stopper and smell the 4.3.3 If, under a magnification of 50 to 500, the
contents of the bottle, taking a deep breath. slides prepared as in 4.3.2 ( see Fig. 4, 5 and 6 )
NOTE - The presence of characteristic musty odour show, as compared to undamaged fibre ( see
is indicative of the growth and attack of micro-orga- Fig. 7 ).
nisms. If the test samples are damp, the odour will
be dominant. a) incisions or cracks on the cuticle of the
fibre, and/or
4.2.2 From another test specimen drawn as
in 2.1, take about one gram of the fibres and b) damage to primary and secondary walls
cut them into small bits. Take a wide-mouthed of the fibre from the cuticle inwards,
conical flask and rinse it thoroughly with dis- and/or
tilled water. Place the bits in the flask, add c) hyphae within the lumen.
10 ml of distilled water and boil for half an report the lot to have been damaged by fungal
hour. Take the supernatant liquid and deter- attack. If, under a magnification of 500 to 900,
mine its pH value with the pH meter or Lovi- the slides prepared as in 4.3.2 ( see Fig. 8 and 9,
bond comparator, noting down the temperature and Note 1 ) show, as compared to undamaged
of the supernatant liquid. fibre (see Fig. 7 > indentations or serrations of
4.2.3 Determine the pH value of the aqueous the fibres from the cuticle inwards, that is
extract of the control specimen drawn as towards the lumen, report the lot to have been
in 2.2, following the procedure prescribed damaged by bacterial attack ( see Note 2 ).
in 4.2.2. NOTES
NOTE - With fungal attack the pH value generally 1 The extent of indentations or serrations is a
shifts towards the acid side, whereas with bacterial eood indication of the intensitv of bacterial damaae.
attack it generally shifts towards the alkaline side. yhough in the case of fungal attack the primary a>d
the secondary walls of the fibres are damaged, in the
4.2.4 Take about 50 to 60 fibres from the test case of bacterial attack, the secondary wall and the
specimen drawn as in 2.1, mount them parallel primary wall immediately next to it do not usually
on a glass side, cover them with a cover plate indicate damage except in the case of highly affected
fibres.
and treat them with balloon test reagent.
Examine the fibres under microscope after 2 The larger the number of incisions or cracks on
30 minutes. the cuticle of the fibres, the larger the quantity of
hyphae within the lumen, and the greater the degree
4.2.5 Treat similarly the fibres from a control of damage of the primary and the secondary walls of
the fibres from the cuticle inwards, the greater the
specimen drawn as in 2.2 and examine them damage by fungi.
under microscope.
5 ESTIMATION OF DAMAGE
NOTE - Undamaged fibres will show formation of
balloons or beads (see Fig. 1 ) whereas damaged
fibres will not show formation of any balloons or 5.1 Degree of Damage ( Damage Count Test )
beads (see Fig. 2).
5.1.1 Procedure
4.3 Detection of Fungal or Bacterial Damage Take about 0.1 g of fibres frcm four test speci-
4.3.1 From four test specimens take few fibres mens drawn as in 2.1 and place them in 50-ml
from the stained portions, mount them on a beaker. Immerse the fibres in 11 percent
glass slide and irrigate them with a few drops caustic soda solution [ see 3.6 (i) ] for three
of lactophenol solution. Cover the fibres with a minutes and wash them thoroughly with dis-
cover plate and examine them under micro- tilled water. Treat the fibres with Congo red
scope. solution for 10 minutes. Rinse the fibres with
FIG. 3 COTTON FIBRE SHOWING FUNGAL FIG. 4 COTTON FIBRE SHOWING INCISIONSOR
GROWTH ( HYPHAB AND SPORES) CRACKS ON JTSCUTICLE
FIG. 12 COTTON FIBRE SHOWING SEVERE FIG. 13 COTTON FIBRE SHOWING SEVERE
FUNGAL DAMAGE BACTERIAL DAMAGE
distilled water to remove the excess of stain. 5.1.2 Count separately the number of damaged
Mount the stained fibres on glass slides and and undamaged fibres on the slides. Calculate
treat them with 18 percent caustic soda solu- the damage count of the fibres as follows:
tion [ see 3.6 (ii) ] for one minute. Cover the
fibres with cover plates and examine them Damage count = -.a- x 100
under the microscope with a magnification of a+b
200. Examine five slides and about 500 fibres. where
a = number of damaged fibres, and
NOTES
b = number of undamaged fibres.
1 Damaged fibres will show irregular stain patches,
spiral staining and cracks. Severe bacterial damage 5.1.3 Repeat the procedure prescribed in 5.1.1
is indicated by fluffy or fuzzy appearance of the and 5.1.2 to determine the damage count of
fibres ( see Fig. 10, 11,12and 13 ).
fibres taken from four control specimens drawn
2 Undamaged fibres will show three types of stains as in 2.2.
depending upon the maturity of the fibres. Immature
fibres will show convolutions and pink stains. Half- 5.1.4 Compare the damage count values obtain-
mature fibres will become faintly red and highly ed as in 5.1.2 and 5.1.3.
mature fibres will show rupture due to swelling and
reveal regular red stain spirals, which should not be NOTE - Control specimens should have the lower
mistaken for damaged fibres. damage count values than the test specimen.
Most of the sheep, except the merino and other varies considerably from breed to breed and
highly developed breeds, carry two distinct hairy part contains kemp which are opaque, do
coats: the outercoat of long, coarse and,wavy not absorb dyes and show very clearly in the
hair, and the undercoat of fine crimpy fibres finished fabric.
called ‘wool’. The proportion of hair and wool \
3 REAGENTS
4 APPARATUS
4.1 For the purpose of this test the following
apparatus shall be used:
a) Sampling Frame-Consisting of an adjust-
able wooden or metal frame of suitable
size and fitted with elastic cords along its
length and width ( see Fig. 1 ).
b) Velvet Board - of black or any toher
contrasting colour.
Plan of Sampling Frame Showing
c) Pair of Forceps Edges of Wool Sample Evened upto
d) Dissecting Needle Markers
5 PROCEDURE
Raw wool, that is, wool as shorn from the sheep and dung. It: is, therefore, purchased on the
or wool which is pulled, limed or ginned and basis of either laboratory scoured yield or clean
carded, contains varying amount of impurities wool fibre content.
like sand, grease, suint, vegetable mltter, tags
Ws = oven-dry weight., in g, of the speci- 5.5.3 Calculate the laboratory scouring yield of
men after scouring ( see 5.1); the sample by the following formula:
x= alcohol extractable matter content, L=F+V,
percent, of the scoured oven-dry
specimen ( see 5.2 ); where
2 = ash content, percent, of the scour- L = laboratory scouring yield, percent,
ed oven-dry specimen ( see 5.3 ); of the sample;
V = vegetable matter content, percent, F = clean wool fibre content, percent,
of the scoured oven-dry specimen of the sample ( see 5.5.1 ); and
( see 5.4 ); and v, = vegetable matter content, percent,
WI = original weight, in g, of the speci- in the sample adjusted to standard
men ( see 5.1 ). condition ( see 5.5.2 ).
5.5.2 Calculate the vegetable matter content, 5.6 Calculate in a similar manner ( see 5.5.1,
percent, in the sample by the following formula: 5.5.2 and 5.5.3 ) the clean wool fibre content,
percent, and the laboratory scouring yield,
wzxv percent, of the remaining test specimens. If the
VI = 0.842 WI difference between any two of the three values
for each characteristic exceeds 2.5 percent,
where draw fresh specimens in lieu thereof and test
VI - vegetable matter content, percent, them. Calculate the respective mean of the
in the sample adjusted to standard values, separately for clean wool fibre content,
condition ( see Note ); percent, and laboratory scouring yield content.
w2. = oven-dry weight, in g, of the speci- 6 REPORT
men after scouring ( see 5.1); The report shall include the following informa-
V = vegetable matter content, percent, tion:
of the scoured oven-dry specimen
( see 5.4 ); and a) Clean wool fibre content, percent;
w, = original weight, in g, of the speci- b) Laboratory scoured yield, percent; and
men ( see 5.1). c) Vegetable matter content, percent.
The solubility of wool in alkali provides a useful when an untreated control sample is available
index of the extent of the change in its chemi- and when the nature of treatment of the sample
cal properties brought about by certain under test is known. This method is useful as a
agencies. Wool, when treated with acids, oxidi- control in processing. When the sample has
zing or reducing agents, or when exposed to been treated by two different agencies having
heat or light, increases in solubility, whereas opposite effects on the solubility, the interpreta-
when treated with mild alkali, which IS normally tion of the results, even when an untreated
used in processing, or when treated with cross- control sample is available, is difficult and
linking agents, decreases in solubility. The other tests are necessary to supplement the
solubility of wool depends on the severity of the information.
treatment. This methcd of test is most useful
6.2 Pour 100 ml of sodium hydroxide solution as a percentage of its calculated dry, fat and
into a flask. Stopper it loosely and fix it in the acid free weight by the formula given in 7.1.1
water-bath by any suitable means, so that the or 7.1.2.
level of the water outside the flask is at least
2 cm higher than the level of the solution 7.1.1 If the sample does not contain acid ( that
inside. is, if the pH is 4-O or greater than 4.0 ) calculate
the alkali solubility of each test specimen by
NOTE - This procedure is essential for precise con- the following formula:
trol of temperature.
ANNEX A
( Clause 6.4 )
METHOD FOR DETERMINING THE ACID CONTENT
The solubility of wool in urea-bisulphite solution This test is most useful when an untreated
provides an index of the extent of the change sample is available and when the treatment of
in its chemical properties brought about by the sample under test is known.
certain agencies. Wool, when treated with
neutral or alkaline solution or steamed in neut- This test is useful as a control in processing.
ral or alkaline conditions usually decreases in When the sample has been treated by two
solubility. Hence, this method is particularly agencies having opposite effects on the solubi-
useful for investigating setting process. Dry lity, the interpretation of the results, even when
heating or treatment with cross-linking agents an untreated control sample is available, is
also causes the decrease in solubility, whereas difficult and other tests are necessary to supple-
oxidation or acid dyeing increases the solubility. ment the information.
3.3 Sintered-Glass Filtering Crucibles 5.1 From the test sample, take a representative
sample ( about 10 g ) su&ient to provide fat-
of 30 ml capacity with a pore size of 90 to 150 and burr-free wool for the following test speci-
microns and provided with ground-glass stop- mens:
pers. If stopper is not available, the crucible
should be covered with a watch-glass during 4 One test specimen weighing 1-O g for
cooling and weighing. determining the dry weight ( see 6.1),
‘3 Two test spe$mens each weighing 1-O g
4 REAGENTS
fidthe solubllrty test ( see 6.2.1 and 6.3 ),
4.0 Quality of Reagents
Unless specified otherwise, pure chemicals shall c) Two test specimens each weighing 2-O g
be employed in tests and distilled water shall be for determining the acid content ( see
used wherever the use of water or distilled water A-2.1 ).
as a reagent is intended.
NOTE - The representative sample should be disin-
NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that tegrated and cut into shorter lengths of one centi-
do not contain impurities which affect the experi- metre. The sample should be brought to room
mental results. temperature.
5.2 Extract the representative sample in a the pH of the water extract is less than 4.0,
Soxhlet apparatus with light petroleum for one determine the acid content by the method given
hour at a minimum rate of six extractions per in Annex A.
hour. Allow the petroleum to evaporate and
remove the vegetable and other ~foreign matter 7 CALCULATION
by hand picking.
7.1 Calculate the urea-bisulphite solubility of
6 PROCEDURE wool as the loss in weight of the test specimen,
expressed as a percentage of its calculated dry,
6.1 From the extracted representative sample, fat and acid free weight by the formula given
take one test specimen weighing 1-O g. Dry it in in 7.1.1 or 7.1.2.
a weighing bottle at 105 f 3°C for three hours.
Stopper the bottle and cool it in a desiccator 7.1.1 If the sample does not contain acid ( that
and weigh. Remove the test specimen, weigh is if the pH is 4-O or greater than 4-O ) calculate
the weighing bottle and calculate the dry weight the urea-bisulphite solubility of each test speci-
of the test specimen. men by the following formula:
ANNEX A
( Clause 6.4 )
A-2.1 Place two test specimens each weighing n = normality of the sodium hydro-
2.0 g in separate glass-stoppered conical flasks. xide solution; and
Pour 100 ml of pyridine solution into each w, = dry weight of 1 g test specimen,
flask. Stopper the flasks and shake mechanically determined as in 6.1.
for one hour or allow the flasks to stand over-
night after initial shaking to ensure complete NOTE - The constant has the following values:
wetting of the specimens. Decant the liquid
Acid Value
from the wool filtering through a plug of glass-
wool to retain fibrous material. Pipette out Sulphuric acid 4’9
50 ml of each filtrate in separate conical flasks. Formic acid 4’6
Add three drops of phenolphthalein indicator Acetic acid 6’0
to each flask and titrate separately with 0.1 N
sodium hydroxide till a faint or a light pink A-3.2 Calculate the average of the values
colour appears. obtained as in A-3.1.
This method determines the total protein con- A reference to IS : 1793-1973 ‘Guide for mark-
tent in the woollen textiles materials. However, ing textile materials made of wool (first
it does not necessarily mean that the protein revision)’ may be made for definitions of textile
content so determined is ‘all wool’. It may also materials containing wool.
contain other protein fibres besides ‘wool’.
3.4 Weighing Balance 6.2 Determine the mass of the specimen with-
out removing it from the oven. In case the
capable of weighing to an accuracy of 10 mg. drying oven is not provided with the weighing
balance, remove the specimen from the oven
3.5 Drying Oven and transfer it to a weighing container of
capable of maintaining a temperature of known mass provided with a tight lid. The
105 f 3°C and preferably fitted with weighing transference of the specimen shall be done in
balance. as less a time as possible. Cool the specimen
and the container in a desiccator to room tem-
4 REAGENTS perature before weighing. Weigh the container
4.0 Quality of Reagents and determine the mass of the specimen to an
accuracy of 10 mg.
Unless specified otherwise pure chemicals shall 6.3 Put the specimen in a beaker together with
be employed in test and distilled water shall be 500 ml of 5 percent sodium or potassium hydro-
used wherever the use of water as a reagent is xide solution and boil slowly until the wool
intended. fibres dissolve. After 10 minutes of boiling, filter
NOTE - ‘Pure chemicals’ shall mean chemicals that through a sintered glass crucible. Wash the
do not contain impurities which affect the test residue first with warm water, then with acetic
results. acid solution and finally with hot water. Dry
4.1 Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide Solution the residue at 105 1 3°C.
5 percent ( m/v). 6.4 Examine carefully the residue and the pores
of the crucible for incompletely dissolved wool.
4.2 Benzene-Methyl Alcohol Mixture If it is present dissolve it by pouring sodium or
(3:2). potassium hydroxide solution. Rinse and dry
the residue at 105 & 3°C to constant mass ( see
4.3 Acetic Acid Solution Note under 6.1) and weigh it to an accuracy of
3 percent ( v/v ). 10mg.
In textile industry textile materials undergo soluble substances, if present, in more than
various treatments in course of which extrane- certain quantities may have deleterious effect
ous matter of various types, such as, sizing or on the fibrous material or on other materials
finishing material, and water-soluble sa Its with which they are associated in use and it
( chlorides and sulphates ) is gathered by or may, therefore, affect their performance in
added to the textile materials. Sue h water- service.
SECTION F
With the increase in the use of viscose rayon clearly defining the various grades of viscose
cut staple fibres in the different sectors of the rayon cut staple fibres. It is hoped that this
textile industry, the demand for appropriate would enable the buyer to select the correct
grade of fibre has arisen. This standard has grade of iibre to suit his end requirement.
therefore, been prepared with the intention of
Grade 3, the material shall receive points less 7 BASIS FOR ALLOCATION OF POINTS
than 300.
7.1 Fibre length being the most important
6 METHOD FOR AWARDING POINTS characteristic among all the characteristics
from the point of view of spinning, it has been
6.1 The material shall be awarded points for allotted the maximum number of points. Other
the individual characteristics based on the characteristics have been allotted points in the
details given in Table 1. order of their importance.
Wool for export is an important bearing for the grading of wool and this has been aligned with
country’s foreign exchange. In order to stand ar- the ‘Agmark’ specification for implementing the
dize the quality of wool for export suitable standards while inspecting the wools for export
gradings are essential. The method covers the from the country.
Table 6 Grade Designation and Characteristics Table 8 Grade Designation and Characteristics
of Mixed Wool ( Clipped-Pulled ) of Indian Hill ( Puhtwi) Wool ( Pulled )
( Clauses 3.1, 3.2 and 3.3 ) ( Clauses 3.1, 3.2 and 3.3 )
IA Above 77
Grade Designation Colour Yield
Percent Ginned Tinged White { z Tinged White
AA:::: ::
(1) (2) (3) ID Above 90
fA Above 60 Above 74
Hill White or I B White or Above 65 Above 77
Hill Tinged White i g Tmged White Above 70 Ginned Pale Yellow j C Pale Yellow Above 80
Above 75 Above 85
Above 55 1: Above 90
is Above 60 rA Above 70
HilllColoured , c All Coloured
Above 65 Ginned Coloured XL BC All Coloured Above 75
iD Above 70 Above 80
1 SCOPE fibres: ,
1.1 This standard covers the grading of White, (a) strength, (b) defects, (c) root content,
TOSSA and DAISEE jute from which the roots (d) colour, (e) fineness, and (f) density.
have not been cut.
2 COLOUR 3.4 The ‘hand and eye’ method may be used for
the present in assessing these qualities until
2.1 The colour description of White, TOSSA such time as suitable instrumental methods are
and DAISEE jute in relation to the terms used available for scientific assessment of certain
for the purpose of grading is given below: important characteristics.
Table 1 Requirements of Fibre Characteristics and Scoring Scheme for Different Grades
of White Jute ( CORCHORUS CAPSULARIS )
( Clauses 3.5 and 3.6 )
( Figures in parentheses indicate score marks )
Table 2 Requirements of Fibre Characteristics and Scoring Scheme for Different Grades
of TOSSA and DAISEE hte ( CORCHORUS OLITORIUS )
( Clauses 3.5 and 3.6 )
( Figures in parentheses indicate score marks )
Uncut Indian ‘Bimli is an important foreign indicated in this covers grading of Indian
exchange earner and it is necessary for standar- ‘Bimli’ to be suitably categorized,
dization of fibre raw material. The method
1 SCOPE 3 GRADING
1.1 This standard covers grading of Bimli fibres 3.1 The Bimli fibre ( from which roots have not
from which roots have not been cut. been cut ) shall be classified into 4 grades as
given in Table 1.
1.2 The strength aspect of the fibres is classi- 3.2 The ‘hand and eye’ method may be used
fied depending upon their tenacity. The terms for assessing these qualities as is presently in
used for the purpose of grading are ‘Good’, vogue in trade but in case of ?ny dispute, the
‘Fair’ ‘Average’ and <Weak mixed’. corresponding test method applicable for jute,
mesta and Bimli as mentioned in the table may
NOTES also be followed for correct assessment on
1 Tenacity is the breaking load of a material under scientific basis.
test divided by the linear density of the unstrained NOTE - According to the trade practice for compa-
material, expressed as grams per tex. ring strength, the tufts of fibres of approximately
equal size held equal distance apart, are broken
2 Linear density is the mass per unit length, the longitudinally without jerk. Good listre indicates
quotient obtained by dividing the mass of the fibre or good fibre strength. Root content in terms of per-
yarn by its length- When ihe mass is expressed in centage by mass is judged by observing the extent of
grams and the length in kilometres, the resulting foots along the length. Light or heavy bodiedness of
value’, that is, the quotient, is expressed as tex. the fibre is assessed bv feeling the lightness or heavi-
ness of a bunch of fibre ree& (by raising and lower-
2 COLOUR ing ) when held within a grip.
3.3 Relative weightage to each of the quality
2.1 The colour description of fibres in relation characteristics is attributed by a system of
to the terms used for the purpose of grading is scoring for various grades by ‘hand and eye’
given below: method for routine grading. The marks allocat-
ed are on the basis of the objective assessment
Good Creamy to whitish of the different quality characteristics and as
such shall be used for the purpose of grading on
Aver age Greyish to dark the basis as given in Table 1.
NOTES
1 The minimum reed length should be 150 cm or the effective reed length should not be less than 1Oe cm
except for grade B-4. The root content includes hard barky crappy ends.
2 The fibre should be in dry storable condition.
3 The fibre should be free from mud and other foreign materials.
4 Natural dust may be allowed in Grade B-2, B-3 and B-4 with proportionate discount.
5 A parcel of Bimli which would not score full marks for a particular grade shall still be considered for that
grade with suitable discount to be settled between the buyer and the seller provided its score is not less by 50
( or more > percent of the difference between the maximum scores for that and the next lower grade. When
the score is less by 50 ( or more I percent of the difference, the buyer will have the option to reject or settle
with a suitable discount.
6 Scores in the table may be taken as guidance for determining the discount.
Uncut Indian ‘Mesta’ is an important foreign indicated in this covers grading of Indian
exchange earner and it is necessary for stand- ‘Mesta’ to be suitably categorized.
ardization of fibre raw material. The method
1 SCOPE 3 GRADING
1.1 This standard covers grading of MESTA 3.1 The MESTA fibre ( from which roots have
fibres from which the roots have not been cut. not been cut ) shall be classified into 6 grades
as given in Table 1.
1.2 The strength aspect of the fibres is classified
depending upon their tenacity. The terms used 3.2 The ‘hand and eye’ method may be used in
?;6;ie purpose of grading are ‘Very good’, assessing these qualities as is presently in vogue
9 ‘Fairly good’, ‘Average’ and ‘Weak in the trade but in the case of dispute, the
mixed’: corresponding test method applicable for jute
as mentioned in the table may also be followed
NOTES
for correct assessment on scientific basis.
1 Tenacity is the breaking load of material under
test divided by the linear density of the unstrained NOTE - According to the trade practice for compar-
material, expressed as grams per tex. ing strength, the tufts of fibres of aouroximatelv
equal size held equal distance apart,- ire broken
2 Linear density is the mass per unit length; the longitudinally without jerk. Good lustre indicates
quotient obtained by dividing the mass of fibre or good fibre strength. Root content in terms of percen-
yarn by its length. When the mass is expressed in tage by mass is judged by observing the extent OF
grams and the length in kilometres, the resulting roots along the length. Light or heavy bodiedness of
value, that is, quotient, is expressed as tex. the fibre is assessed by feeling the lightness or heavi-
ness of a bunch of fibre reeds ( by raising and lower-
2 COLOUR ing ) when held within a grip.
2.1 The colour description of fibres in relation 3.3 Relative weightage to each of the quality
to the terms used for the purpose of grading is characteristics is attributed by a system of
given below: scoring for various grades by the ‘hand and eye’
method for routine grading. The marks alloca-
Good Creamy to whitish ted are on the basis of the objective assessment
Fair average Light grey of the different quality characteristics and as
such shall be used for the purpose of grading on
Average Greyish to dark the basis as given in Table 1.
Table 1 Requirements of Fibre Characteristics and Scoring Scheme for Different Grades of
Uncut Indian MESTA
( Clauses 3.1 and 3.3 )
MESTA 2 Good Free from major defects and 20 Fair Fine, with Heavy, with
loose sticks; substantially average fibre well broader
free from knots and gummy segregated thicker reeds
and crappy fibres
(21) (21) (22) (11) (3) (2) 80
MESI’A 3 Fairly Good Free from major defects 30 Average Coarse Medium
except knots bodied
The fineness grades of wool fibre has an impor- to assess the wool fibre, for various grades.
tant bearing in the classification of grades. The Assessment of the fineness grades is on the basis
method covers grading of fineness of wool fibre, of average micron value and standard deviation
both for imported and indigenous wool, in order of fibre fineness.
Example 5: Example 6:
Average fibre diameter 34.15 pm Average fibre diameter 37.23 pm
Standard deviation 14.23 pm Standard deviation 15.91 pm
Assigned grade 44s Assigned grade 40s
wn iLm Pm
Finer than 80s Under 17’70 3’59 - -
-
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
The fineness grades of wool tops has an impor- in order to assess wool tops for various grades,
tant bearing in classification of grades. The assessment of fineness grades is on the basis of
method covers grading of fineness of wool tops, average micron value and standard deviation of
both for imported and indigenous wool tops, fibres fineness.
Example 4: Example 5:
Average fibre diameter 34.5 pm Average fibre diameter 39.5 C”m
Fibre diameter distribution, Fibre diameter distribution,
percent: percent:
40 pm and under 63 40 pm and under 54
40-l pm and over 37 40-l pm and over 46
60-l pm and over 6 60.1 pm and over 7
Assigned grade 48~144s Assigned grade 40s
.
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
The very nature of medullated wools that is medullated wools are assessed for fineness
hetrogenous fleeces, necessitates application of grades based on hairiness and distribution of
an altogether different criterion for evaluation different thickness.
of fineness grades of Indian wools. Hence the
4.4 At least 5 000 fibres should be examined for Percentage of hairy fibres 3.8
determining the percentage of hairy fibres ( see Note )
according to 5.2 above ( that is over 500 fibres Percentage of fibres below 40 pm 69.0
per slide ) and 2 000 fibres should be *examined Percentage of fibres above 80 pm 0.1
according to 5.3 above for finding out the distri-
bution of coarse fibres. Assigned Grade I-B
NOTE - Since the hairiness is low, that is, below
4.5 Calculate the grade according to hairiness 5 percent, this wool may be further assessed depend-
and also according to the distribution of ing upon whether wool or wool top; for assigning
coarser fibres. specific fineness grades for example 56s, 48s, 36s, etc.
n j2 ; 39 s j d 13
Assigned Grade I B
-
SP 15 ( Part 1) : 1989
[ Indian Kapok ( to the common man known as chase made. The method covers variods
Silk Cotton ) is used for stuffing purposes for requirements to specify grades of Indian
various applications. Assessment of Kapok for Kapok. ]
grades has an important use during the pur-
--
As in the Original Standard, this Page is Intentionally Left Blank
I
SP 15 ( Part 1 ) : 1989
SECTION G
IS No. Title
IS No. Title
3429 : 1966 Method for determination of solubility of wool in alkali
3430 : 1966 Method for determination of solubility of wool in urea-bisulphite solution
3674 : 1966 Method for determination of micronaire value of cotton fibres
3675 : 1966 Method for determination of bundle strength ( tenacity ) of cotton fibres
4203 : 1967 Method for determination of sulphate content in textile materials
4807 : 1968 Methods of testing viscose rayon staple fibres
4871 : 1968 Method for determination of lint and trash content of cotton by means of
mechanical pneumatic machines
4902 ; 1981 Method for determination of correct invoice weight of all wool materials
( Jirst revision )
5874 : 1970 Grading of viscose rayon cutstaple fibres ( regular )
5910 : 1977 Fineness grades of wool (Jirst revision )
5911 : 1977 Fineness grades of wool tops ($rst revision >
6124 : 1971 Method for determination of crimps in wool
6359 : 1971 Methods for conditioning of textiles
6503 : 1988 Method for quantitative chemical analysis of ternary mixtures of protein
fibres, nylon 6 or nylon 6.6, and certain other fibres (Jirst revision )
6504 : 1979 Method for quantitative chemical analysis of ternary mixtures of viscose
rayon, cotton and protein fibres (first revision )
6570 : 1972 Method for quantitative chemical analysis. of binary mixtures of jute and
animal fibres
6637 : 1972 Methods for determination of moisture in wool
6653 : 1972 Methods for determination of staple length of greasy wool
6919 : 1973 Methods for determination of wool fibre diameter by airflow method
7032(&arts 1 to 8 ) Physical methods of test for uncut Indian jute MESTA and BIMLI (first
revision )
8387 : 1977 Method of test for wool fibre length ( barbe and hauteur ) using a comb
sorter
8476 : 1977 Method for determination of wool content in woollen textile-materials
9022 : 1979 Methods for preparation of laboratory test samples and test specimens of
textile materials for chemical testing
9068 : 1979 Recommended methods for the removal of non-fibrous matter prior to
quantitative analysis of fibre mixtures
9308 ( Part 1 ) : 1987 Birstle coir fibre (first revision )
9846 : 1981 Grading of uncut Indian MESTA
9889 : 1988 Method for quantitative chemical analysis of binary mixtures of silk
and wool or hair ( jirst revision )
9896 : 1981 Method ‘for quantitative chemical analysis of mixtures of polyolefin fibres
and other fibres
10014 ( Part 1 ) : Methods of test for man-made staple fibres: Part 1 Determination of
1984 length
10014 ( Part 2 ) : Methods of test for man-made staple fibres: Part 2 Determination of linear
1981 density
10930 : 1984 Quality grades of undyed medullated wool
11596 : 1986 Grading of uncut Indian BIMLI
11870: 1986 Method for quantitative chemical analysis of binary mixtures of polypro-
pylene and polyethlene .
12135 : 1987 Method for determination of acetic acid coutent of acetate or triacetate
fibre materials
SP 11 : 1973 Recommended SI units for textiles