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Skin Research and Technology 2014; 20: 208–212 © 2013 John Wiley & Sons A/S.

Printed in Singapore  All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd
doi: 10.1111/srt.12107 Skin Research and Technology

Reduction in facial hyperpigmentation after treatment


with a combination of topical niacinamide and
tranexamic acid: a randomized, double-blind,
vehicle-controlled trial
Do Hyun Lee1, In Young Oh2, Kyo Tan Koo1, Jang Mi Suk3, Sang Wook Jung3,
Jin Oh Park4, Beom Joon Kim2 and Yoo Mi Choi5
1
Nutrex technology R&D center, Seoul, South Korea,
2
Department of Dermatology, Chung-Ang University College of Medicine, Seoul, South Korea,
3
P&K Skin Research Center, Seoul, South Korea,
4
Daebong LS, Incheon, South Korea and 5Pacificpharma, Seoul, South Korea

Background: Facial hyperpigmentation occurs in multiple con- and chromameter, in addition to physicians’ assessment using
ditions. In addition, many Asian women desire a lighter skin clinical photographs.
color. Thus, there is a need for the development of skin light- Results: The niacinamide + TXA formulation regimen was sig-
ening agents, and niacinamide and tranexamic acid (TXA) are nificantly (P < 0.05) more effective than the vehicle control for-
promising candidates. mulation regimen in reducing the appearance of pigmentation.
Objective: To assess the effectiveness of a combination of Conclusion: A formulation containing the combination of nia-
niacinamide and TXA as a topical moisturizing formulation for cinamide + TXA reduced the appearance of irregular pigmenta-
treatment of irregular facial pigmentation. tion, providing an effect beyond that achieved with sunscreen.
Materials and Methods: A total of 42 Korean women (age
range: 30–60 years) who were not pregnant, nursing, or Key words: facial hyperpigmentation – niacinamide – tranexa-
undergoing any concurrent therapy were enrolled in this study mic acid
for 8 weeks. Subjects used a twice-daily regimen of either a
moisturizing cream containing 2% niacinamide + 2% TXA (test Ó 2013 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John
formulation; n = 21) or cream vehicles (vehicle control; Wiley & Sons Ltd
n = 21) in addition to an assigned sunscreen each morning. Accepted for publication 18 July 2013
Pigmentation was measured objectively using a mexameter

hyperpigmentation is a sub- hyperpigmentation (3). The results of in vitro cell


I RREGULAR FACIAL
stantial contributor to the aged appearance of
skin (1). As a result, technology that can effec-
coculture suggest that a relevant mechanism of
this effect is the inhibition of melanosome trans-
tively address pigment appearance is of interest, fer from melanocytes to keratinocytes by niacin-
especially given proposed regulatory changes amide (4,5).
limiting the use of hydroquinone (2). Niacin- Tranexamic acid (TXA) is a lysine analog
amide is a member of the vitamin B3 family and known to have antiplasmin activity that has
can be used as an ingredient in cosmetic mois- been shown to prevent UV-induced pigmenta-
turizers. It is a precursor to a group of enzyme tion. TXA decreases melanocyte tyrosinase
cofactors: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide activity by preventing the binding of plasmino-
(NAD), nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide gen to keratinocytes, which results in the
phosphate (NADP), and their reduced forms reduction in prostaglandins and arachidonic
(NADH and NADPH). These cofactors are acid, which are inflammatory mediators
involved in many reactions in the body, includ- involved in melanogenesis (6). Localized intra-
ing several in the skin which appear to contrib- dermal injection of TXA reportedly improves
ute to a reduction in the appearance of melasma (7).

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Niacinamide and tranexamic acid for pigmentation reduction

Because niacinamide and TXA have different and returned the used containers at week 8.
mechanisms of action, it was proposed that their Subjects recorded each application of the test
combination could be more effective than each formulation in a diary. Compliance with the
individual treatment in reducing hyperpigmen- product use regimen was assessed on the basis
tation. We conducted this clinical trial to evalu- of diary records and the weight of returned
ate and compare the effects of a topical facial containers.
regimen containing niacinamide in combination
with TXA on the appearance of facial hyperpig-
mentation and uneven skin tone in female sub-
Efficacy and safety assessments
jects with that of a vehicle control regimen. Subjects were assessed at baseline, week 4, and
week 8 of the study. The severity of facial
hyperpigmentation was determined at each visit
Materials and Methods using a mexameter (Courage-Khazaka Elec-
Subjects tronic, K€
oln, Germany) and by two blinded
Forty-two female Korean volunteers aged 30– expert graders using high-quality clinical photo-
60 years with moderate to moderately severe graphs. The graders viewed and compared
irregular hyperpigmentation were enrolled. blind-coded images taken at baseline, week 4,
Subjects were randomly assigned to receive the and week 8. Each image was graded according
niacinamide plus TXA (n = 21) or vehicle con- to a pigment intensity score (1–10 scale). In
trol (n = 21) regimen; study groups were bal- addition, skin lightness was assessed with a
anced with respect to hyperpigmentation and chromameter (Konica Minolta, Inc., Tokyo,
age (30–45 and 46–60 years) at baseline. The Japan) using L-value.
study was approved by the relevant institu- At each visit, subjects were queried about
tional review boards. All subjects signed adverse events, such as pain, itching, and red-
informed consent forms, and the study protocol ness.
conformed to the principles set forth by the
Declaration of Helsinki and Korean Good Clini-
Statistical analysis
cal Practice guidelines.
All data were statistically analyzed using the
paired t-test with SPSS version 19.0 (SPSS, Inc.,
Study design Chicago, IL, USA). In all cases, differences
This was an 8 week, prospective, randomized, were considered statistically significant when
double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical study. P < 0.05.
During the study, subjects were permitted to
apply their usual brand of foundation, blushers,
and eye and lip makeup provided these prod-
Results
ucts did not contain any ingredients known to All 42 subjects completed the study. No subjects
affect skin pigmentation. discontinued their participation due to lack of
Subjects in the experimental group received a effectiveness or adverse events. On average, the
topical cream formulation containing 2% niacin- subjects used 85–98% of the amount of test for-
amide plus 2% TXA (Regederm RX White Pro- mulation expected.
jectâ; Aestura, Seoul, Korea) and sun protection The mean melanin index (MI) scores are
factor (SPF) 15 sunscreen agents. Subjects in the shown in Fig. 1. In the experimental group, MI
control group received a cream vehicle with the scores were decreased significantly from base-
same sunscreen agents. The vehicle control and line at both 4 and 8 weeks, from 131.16
niacinamide plus TXA formulations were pack- to 126.97 (P < 0.001) and 119.62 (P < 0.001),
aged in identical 50-g blind-coded pump jars respectively. MI scores in the control group
labeled with the subject number. revealed slight but insignificant decreases from
In the morning and evening, each subject 132.03 at baseline to 130.24 at 4 weeks
applied approximately 1.0 g of her assigned test (P = 0.454) and 129.70 at 8 weeks (P = 0.380).
formulation to her entire face (total daily prod- The mean scores of two blinded expert grad-
uct usage ~2 g). Subjects received the containers ers at 4 weeks and 8 weeks after treatment
of test formulation at the beginning of the study showed significantly greater improvement in

209
Lee et al.

140 ascorbic acid, azelaic acid, kojic acid, licorice,


Control group niacinamide, resveratrol, various peptides, and
Experimental group
soy have skin lightening properties. However,
135
while proof-of-principle approaches have been
conducted at the in vitro level for most of these
Melanin index

130
agents, there is still no vehicle-controlled clini-
cal data. Recently, variable combinations of top-
ical agents have been researched and developed
125 to treat hyperpigmentation disorders (11, 12).
In this study, a formulation containing the
combination of niacinamide and TXA was eval-
120 uated. The combined formulation performed
significantly better than the vehicle control, as
evaluated by all measures. This advantage may
115
Baseline 4 w eek 8 w eek arise from the inhibition of two different mecha-
nisms of pigmentation. Topical niacinamide
Fig. 1. Change in melanin index (MI) after treatment. The MI of
does not inhibit melanin production, but instead
the experimental group decreased significantly, whereas the MI of
the control group had a slight, but insignificant decrease.
blocks the transfer of melanosomes to the sur-
rounding cells (4). On the other hand, topical
TXA inhibits UV-induced hyperpigmentation by
the experimental group compared with the con- reducing UV-induced plasmin activity and sub-
trol group (Table 1). Clinical photographs of sequent free arachidonic acid release (6).
facial hyperpigmentation in the experimental The safety of a formulation containing the
group before and after treatment are presented combination of niacinamide and TXA was also
in Fig. 2. confirmed in this study. None of the partici-
Skin lightening effects, as measured by pants reported any adverse effects after 8 weeks
chromameter, were significantly higher in the of use; thus, as a cosmetic, it showed great
experimental group compared with the control safety in vivo. This formulation may be an excel-
group (2.02% vs. 0.25% at week 8; P = 0.018). lent candidate for pigmentation control without
Both product regimens were well tolerated by the negative side effects commonly associated
study subjects. None of the participants with many other skin lightening agents.
reported any serious adverse events. Niacinamide is stable in heat and light, and
remains efficacious in formulated products. In
Discussion addition, it is better tolerated than its counter-
part niacin and does not produce the well-
There is a high demand for safe and effective known ‘niacin flush’ (13). TXA is also very stable
skin lightening agents to target various skin to light, temperature, pH, and oxygen, and no
conditions. The previously accepted ‘gold stan- special protections are needed to maintain its
dard’ of skin lightening, hydroquinone, has a effectiveness unlike many other agents. Thus, it
number of reported side effects (8,9). Due to seems an ideal choice for use in skin lightening
these potential health risks, hydroquinone was creams. The newer topical preparation of tra-
banned in 2001 from cosmetic usage, and safer nexamic acid cetyl ester hydrochloride is already
alternatives have been proposed (10). Among available in cosmetic formulations (14).
them, it is generally acknowledged that arbutin, This study was designed to evaluate the clini-
cal efficacy and safety of a formulation contain-
TABLE 1. Mean pigment intensity score (1–10 scale), according to two ing a combination of niacinamide and TXA for
blinded expert graders
facial hyperpigmentation. According to our lit-
Control group Experimental group erature search using PubMed, this is the first
(mean  SD) (mean  SD) P-value publication addressing the effects of this combi-
Baseline 5.35  0.48 5.29  0.64 0.922 nation on pigmentation and skin lightness. A
4 weeks 5.16  0.62 4.76  0.54 0.042* similar study using a formulation containing
8 weeks 5.25  0.60 4.48  0.60 0.015* the combination of niacinamide and N-acetyl
*P < 0.05. glucosamine was previously reported (12).

210
Niacinamide and tranexamic acid for pigmentation reduction

(a)

(b)

Fig. 2. Clinical photographs of facial hyperpigmentation in the experimental group before and after 8 weeks of treatment. Improvement of pigmen-
tation after treatment (a, b) is noticeable.

Because this study was not designed as a formulating cosmetic products to improve the
split face study due to ethical issues, it is appearance of facial hyperpigmentation.
impossible to assess intra-individual variation.
In addition, the epidermal and dermal concen- Acknowledgements
tration of melanin was not examined before or
after the treatment. In spite of these limitations, This research was financially supported by the
the results of this study suggest that this Ministry of Knowledge Economy (MKE), Korea
formulation, containing a combination of 2% Institute for Advancement of Technology (KIAT),
niacinamide plus 2% TXA, reduced the appear- through the Inter-ER Cooperation Projects.
ance of irregular hyperpigmentation, providing
an effect beyond that achieved with sunscreen Conflict of Interest
alone. This study demonstrates the importance
of careful selection of ingredients when None declared.

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