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TOOLS REQUIRED
Resin is applied using disposable brushes and foam rollers. You will also need a
squeege for working out excess resin when applying the bond quote. Power
sanders will save work during finishing and other sanding operations. The
reciprocal/orbital types are safe and easy to use, but are slow and remove only
small amounts of material. The disc and belt types are fast, but require some
practice for proper control. A foam pad backing disc should be used to minimize
gouges. A sanding block can be used in areas where power tools can't be used.
Scissors and a utility knife are used to trim the fiberglass material. Cleaning
materials should be ready to use at the work site. These would include a bucket
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Method: How to fiberglass a boat using Poxy-Shield epoxy resin http://www.glen-l.com/methods/how-to-fg.html
of hot soapy water or a waterless resin cleaner, safe for skin contact; and suitable
solvents, such as denatured alcohol, acetone, or lacquer thinner, for keeping
tools clean.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Cleanliness is the most important factor for successful results. The application
and all coatings should occur over a clean, dry, bare wood surface free from dirt,
dust, oil, grease, wax, paint or other contaminants. The use of wood
preservatives on the surface to be covered is not recommended. A slightly rough
surface is acceptable. Avoid over-sanding Douglas fir plywood surfaces as the
softer grain will wear away, creating a wrippled surface. Should this occur, correct
after fiberglassing, using a filler such as our Microspheres. All holes, seams,
cracks, dents, gouges, and other imperfections can be filled with a non-oily
resin-compatible wood putty or epoxy filler, and sanded level prior to applying the
first coat. Optionally, this work can be done after the seal coat has cured but in
this case, only an epoxy filler can be used. Do NOT use polyester-based putties.
Appendages, such as deadwood, keels, lift strakes, and rub rails should be
installed AFTER the fiberglass application. All corners (inside and outside) should
be well radiused. See note in "Finishing" for more on the radiused edge of the
transom.
SAFETY
Read all product container labels before opening. Epoxy resins are considered
industrial chemicals that should not be handled carelessly. AVOID DIRECT SKIN
OR EYE CONTACT. ALWAYS wear protective gloves, eye protection, and
non-permeable protective clothing (such as paper or plastic aprons). ALWAYS
wear a dust mask when sanding, especially on resin-coated surfaces that have
cured LESS than 7 days.
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Method: How to fiberglass a boat using Poxy-Shield epoxy resin http://www.glen-l.com/methods/how-to-fg.html
temperatures slow down the reaction; warmer temperatures speed it up. Also,
large amounts in a concentrated area will cure faster than a comparable amount
well-dispersed over a larger, flatter area. (As a precaution, large concentrated
amounts should be avoided since the heat can build up to such an extent as to
present a fire hazard.) The worker can control the "exothermic" reaction to some
extent. For example, slow the reaction down by placing the contents in a cool
area or in the shade; some even place the container in an ice box (free from
foodstuffs). Or in cooler temperatures somewhat below the 70oF level, the
product containers can be brought up to room temperature by placing them in
WARM (not hot) water before mixing. It is also possible to bring up the work
surface temperature with locally applied heat, such as with light bulbs. However,
do NOT attempt to change the reaction by varying the mix ratio, and do NOT
attempt to use thinners or solvents in cold weather to make the products easier to
mix; bring them up to room temperature and mixing will not be a problem. Keep
containers closed when not in use. Store at room temperature and avoid
exposure to heat and freezing/thawing cycles. If crystals form in products, set
containers in warm water; they should disappear and no harm is done to the
product. If products stand for more than 6 months, stir or agitate before use.
Follow mixing instruction on the container labels. Do NOT mix up more than
about a quart at a time, and smaller amounts are usually preferable. Mix up only
as much resin as can be worked in a 20-30 minute period. Dispense into a
shallow, flat pan or paint tray IMMEDIATELY after mixing. (A possible exception
to this is that in temperatures cooler than recommended, the mixture can remain
in the mixing container for a few minutes to help get the reaction going prior to
dispensing.) Do NOT mix in glass or foam plastic containers. A CLEAN stick of
wood is suitable for mixing. Certain power-type mixers can be dangerous and
make mixing incomplete. Do NOT use the mixed resin once it begins to gel or
gets "stringy" discard it and mix up a fresh batch. Resin is ALWAYS used with
hardener, there is no application where resin is used without hardener.
APPLICATION SEQUENCE
The application consists of four coats of resin. the FIRST coat is the SEAL COAT,
and seals the wood surface prior to applying the cloth. The SECOND coat is the
BOND COAT, and is used to wet out and bond the cloth to the surface. The
THIRD coat is the FILL COAT and fills the weave of the cloth. The FOURTH coat
is the FINISH COAT and provides enough resin build-up for final sanding and
finishing. Throughout ALL coats, do NOT apply any more resin than is necessary
to accomplish the purpose of each coat. A typical problem with beginners is that
they use too much resin. This is a waste of resin, makes finish work difficult, and
increases weight and cost. Do NOT attempt to spray any of the coats of resin.
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Method: How to fiberglass a boat using Poxy-Shield epoxy resin http://www.glen-l.com/methods/how-to-fg.html
proper sealing; too thick a coat will inhibit this reaction. Work the coat as long as
possible to assure that all areas are evenly coated. Work from a dryer area to a
wetter area; there is no need to stop. However, don't recoat an area if the surface
has begun to set up. Allow this coat to cure at least tack-free before doing
subsequent work on the surface, or overnight. The surface may appear fuzzy
upon cure which is usually of no consequence. However, if runs or sags or
extreme roughness occurs in an area of a type that would interfere with the easy
and smooth application of the cloth, these areas should be sanded. However,
heavy power sanding on this coat should be avoided to prevent removing the seal
coat or damaging the wood surface. A light hand sanding and solvent wipe should
be all that is necessary prior to the Continue coat (*).
(*) Sanding after each coat is not necessary for adhesion if the coat is applied in less than
24 hours after the previous coat. However, a light sanding is often advisable to remove
any dust, dirt, insects, or debris that could have settled onto the surface during cure. In
addition, a solvent wipe after sanding using a rag soaked with denatured alcohol,
acetone, lacquer thinner, or similar solvent will remove any loose dust and other
contaminants. With all cured coats of resin, a oily-like film (amine blush) frequently
appears on the surface. This thin film is easily removed with solvents as above, if left on
the surface it can cause bond problems. Make sure the surface is completely dry before
recoating.
FIBERGLASS APPLICATION
We recommend the "dry method" of cloth application. In this method, the cloth is
positioned over the surface "dry" and the resin applied ONTO the cloth to wet it
out.
Cut, fit, and position the fiberglass cloth first, using the cutting instructions
provided. If you are not familar with working with fiberglass cloth, start the
application in a smaller area, such as the transom, in order to get a "feel" for the
work. Use tacks, staples, or masking tape to hold the cloth in position, but make
sure tacks and staples are removed prior to the resin setting up hard. (We use
masking tape, applied to no more than an 1/8" of the cloth. Fold under the end of
the tape that sticks to the hull, so it can easily be removed.) Begin work from one
end of the hull and work to the other; once application of the bond coat begins,
there is no need to stop (except in certain instances as will be noted).
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Method: How to fiberglass a boat using Poxy-Shield epoxy resin http://www.glen-l.com/methods/how-to-fg.html
FINISH COAT
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Method: How to fiberglass a boat using Poxy-Shield epoxy resin http://www.glen-l.com/methods/how-to-fg.html
The final FINISH COAT is applied to provide a sanding and finishing base so that
enough resin is available for sanding to prevent cutting into the cloth. This coat is
applied in the same manner as the FILL COAT. Take care to assure that this coat
is as smooth and even as possible, using a brush to smooth out any
imperfections before the resin sets up. If the resin coating is not sufficiently thick
at this point, apply additional coats as necessary, but remember, thinner coats
are better than thicker ones. Allow the FINAL COAT to cure long enough so that
sanding will be easier (overnight or 24 hour cure is minimum preferably.)
Note: If the boat you are building is a speed boat or other planing boat, the junction of
the bottom and the transom should be a fairly crisp angle. Before fiberglassing, this edge
was rounded for fiberglass application, now you must put the edge back. Use scraps of
cloth and epoxy to build the corner up, then grind the material off to form an edge. Be
sure that no "hook" is built in, as this, like a geneously radiused edge, can cause
performance problems.
FINISHING
The finish work will vary depending on the quality of the FINISH COAT. If the
work has been done with care, start out by sanding with an 60 to 80 grit paper,
working up to a 120 to 180 grit. For many builders, this will give results good
enough for painting. However, progressive sanding using finer grit papers will
result in an even finer, smoother finish. Many approaches to final finishing are
possible and are beyond the scope of these instructions. In any case, the final
epoxy coated surface MUST be protected by a paint system or ultra-violet
stabilized coating. These may or may not require primer undercoats. Just about
any marine-type paint system or industrial enamel can be used; much depends
on the builder's budget. In all cases, follow the instructions provided by the paint
manufacturer to the letter. Note: The resin rarely gives a varnish-like smooth surface.
For natural finishes, sand the epoxy with a fine grit sandpaper and apply multiple coats
of marine varnish or polyurethane. Also, for natural finishes, be aware that epoxy resins
cause slight color changes in the wood. If coating wood and only part is coated with
epoxy, then varnished, the surface can look "blotchy".
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