KOFFIECULTUUR:

EEN CREATIEF PROJECT

coffee culture: a creative project

oakland university honors college
sarah lawrence | class of 2018
table of
contents
note to the reader

brief history of consumption

developing the meeting place

the modern coffee house

coffee isn’t always coffee

the brews
a note to
the reader
With every cup of coffee you drink, you partake
in one of the great mysteries of cultural histo-
ry (Weinberg, 3). Billions of cups are consumed
throughout the world each day. So, one may beg
the question, “how does coffee influence the daily
life of a coffee drinker around the world?” This
project will explore a culture that began thousands
of years ago, as well as how these practices have
transformed into a fundamental part of a daily
routine. This magazine is an exploration of the role
coffeehouses have had, and still have, in the lives
of Dutch citizens.
I have always been fascinated by Dutch culture, as
my family has always shared a strong connection
with our partial Dutch heritage. With this, I also
was given the opportunity to learn more about
the culture after becoming close with my friend
Marlous in her time as an exchange student from
the Netherlands while we were in high school.
Her interest in the development of interpersonal
relationships, as well as coffee itself, peaked my
interest so many years ago, and has now come
full-circle in my investigations for this project.
Furthermore, after conducting my initial research
on coffee culture at the beginning of this process,
I was interested to learn that the Dutch ranked so
highly on the list of top coffee-consuming coun-
tries - ultimately driving my observations for this
project.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and
this publication serves as the venue for a visual
and textual exploration of Dutch coffee culture
illustrated through images. Additionally, it observes
how this phenomenon came to the the Nether-
lands, and the ways it has launched a culture that
affects the lives of so many. According to Web-
ster’s Dictionary, culture is defined as “the custom-
ary beliefs, social norms, and material traits of a
racial, religious, or social group: the characteristic
features of everyday existence shared by people
in a place or time.” Additionally, in the world of
social anthropology, culture is often referred to as
the full range of learned human behavior patterns,
thanks to the work of Edward B. Tylor- an English
Anthropologist who first referred to culture as
“that complex whole which includes knowledge,
belief, art, morals, custom and any other capabil-
ities and habits acquired by man as a member of
society,” in his book, Primitive Culture, 1871.
As an observer, my aim was to discover the role
of the coffeehouse as it stands, presently, in the
life of the Dutch coffee consumer. According to
Jonathan Morris, an academic at the University
of Hertfordshire in Hatfield, United Kingdom,
“The last two decades have witnessed sweeping
changes in coffee culture across Europe, both in
terms of the coffee beverages consumed and the
places in which consumption has taken place …
‘historic’ fault lines separating regional beverage
preferences and practices across the continent
appear to be breaking down with the widespread
adoption of espresso-based beverages,” (Morris,
2013). These changes may be observed through
the slow adoption of a faster-paced coffee ex-
perience throughout Amsterdam, specifically, as
the Starbucks movement continues to expand
worldwide. Furthermore, the overall coffee culture
throughout the Amsterdam and the Netherlands
has transformed into the true heart of the social
scene; from personal to business relationships, coffee and
the coffeehouse environment have become a priority in the
eyes of the people. My goal is to capture the role in which
these changes in the consumption pattern have had in Dutch
society.

In Weinberg’s novel “The World of Caffeine: The Science

and Culture of the World’s Most Popular Drug,” he discusses
the Arabian origins of the bean- an accidental discovery of
the drink itself. Additionally, Weinberg attributes the devel-
opment of caffeine-dependence to the Europeans in the
seventeenth century. He states that Europeans were the first
to develop the first, accurate clockwork mechanism, or daily
routine, which occurred in the same decades when caffeine
use became widely adopted in the daily routine of individ-
uals in Venice, Paris and Amsterdam (125). From here, he
explains that this development of citizen’s routine morning
schedule is what contributed to the development of coffee-
house culture as the center of trades, sciences and literary
arts. In addition, Jamieson, in A Journal of Social History, dis-
cusses the role of the Arab coffeehouse which quickly trav-
eled to Oxford in 1650, and soon after, spread throughout
Europe. Jamieson explains that the coffeehouse “replaced
the alehouse as a place for men to meet to discuss business
and politics ... and the caffeine beverages were associated
with [bourgeois] sobriety and virtue,” (Jamieson, 2002).
 consumption
exploring

XX defining community XX
a brief history of
consumption
According to a recent study conducted
by Europe Pubmed Central, the “caffeine
derived from coffee accounts for about 54%
of all caffeine use worldwide”. According to
another study conducted by the Telegraph,
the Netherlands falls within the top five cof-
fee-consuming countries worldwide, sitting at
a staggering 8.4 kg of coffee consumed per
capita, per year. The other 46% of general
caffeine use may be accounted for in other
caffeinated beverages, as well as common
pain medications that are primarily used for
headache relief.
Beginning in seventeenth and eighteenth cen-
tury Ethiopia, coffee spread rapidly all over
the world throughout the period of coloniza-
tion (Chapagain & Hoekstra, 2007) following
the accidental discovery of the drink. From
here, according to Ukers, the Dutch became
pioneers of the European coffee trade after
driving the Portuguese out of Ceylon in 1658,
ultimately taking over their general trade
operations. With this, the Dutch began culti-
vating coffee throughout the area despite its
initial introduction by the Arabs in 1505.
Finally, by 1690, the Dutch were able to
streamline cultivation techniques, and began
regularly importing coffee from Ceylon to
Amsterdam (Ukers, 43), marking the begin-
ning of a more localized coffee culture.
Soon after, the Dutch colonies became one
of the main coffee suppliers to Europe as it
quickly became an integral part of the Dutch
economy, as well as an important part of the
daily routine of many - driving consumption rates
higher than that of tea at some points. According
to S.D. Smith in their piece Coffee Consumption
in Historical Perspective, the “The “coffee revo-
lution” of the second quarter of the eighteenth
century ended European dependence on Yemeni
supplies. Coffee-bush colonization, sponsored by
Dutch and French pioneers, spread cultivation
to areas of Indonesia, South America, and the
Caribbean” (Smith, 44).
From here, coffee evolved into a “pleasure” or
luxury good among the people, as the discov-
ery of coffee’s role as a euphoric drug became
reinforced by new practices of adding sugar to
the beverage. Individuals began to recognize the
“mood-altering properties” that the beverage
offered, and began to favor its effect over that of
cold, alcoholic beverages.
These preferences were soon reflected in the
workplace, as “contemporary observers noted
that laborers who used to arrive at work sleepy,
having consumed beer for breakfast, became
more alert after switching to coffee” (Smith, 45)
. The positive correlation between a cup of joe
and increased productivity in the workplace,
began to spark new developments
From here, the association of coffee with honest
work quickly translated in to a newly developed
coffee house environment. The Dutch, and
individuals worldwide began gathering in coffee
houses at all hours, as coffee quickly evolved into
the glue of the social scene for many. From here,
Smith mentions that coffee’s reputation
was then “forged in the arena of brilliant
but exhausting post-dinner conversation”
(Smith 45)
These developing traditions and consump-
tion practices continued throughout the
early nineteenth century when temperance
and general sobriety practices aimed to-
ward the laboring population were further
promoted by this new-age social scene of
the coffee house. This activity, according
to Smith, may be attributed to the “expan-
sion in the number of coffee shops . . . as
the focus of the campaign was inspired by
increased coffee drinking” to replace that
of the consumption of spirits (44).
Moving forward into modern society, in a
period where the corporate coffee house
has taken over through a non-temperance
related agenda, the goals have shifted.
The newly-developed “Starbucks model”
that, according to Schultz and Yang, re-
volves around the “three manifestations of
love: self love, romantic or relational love,
and philanthropic love (119). This perspec-
tive of providing a small escape during the
day is vastly different from the original
intention of supporting temperance efforts.
Not only did I find this perspective fasci-
nating, I wanted to see if the characteristics
of this model would apply in Dutch coffee
houses as well. Furthermore, as I predicted
that the environment of coffee houses in
the Netherlands were focused heavily on
interpersonal relationships, it was satisfying
to see this model in action.
developing the
m e e t i n g p l ac e
developing the
m e e t i n g p l ac e
The coffee house itself was first introduced
in 1652 London by Pasqua Rosée, as one of
the first places to publicly sell the beverage.
Not long after the initial English introduction
in the midst of the pro-temperance coffee
house movement in Europe, Holland “read-
ily adapted the coffee house” according to
Ukers (45).
The history of the coffee movement records
no intolerance or hesitance toward coffee in
the Netherlands. In fact, a variety of Dutch
artisans and inventors were inspired by the
new environment, and began developing new
coffee mortars, roasters and serving pots.
While this enthusiasm toward the adaptation
of the beverage radiated throughout the
Dutch colonies as a whole, it became most
centralized in Amsterdam due to the rising
population, and with that, the developing
social scene.
From here, following the temperance move-
ment, the coffee house continued to trans-
form in the nineteenth and twentieth centu-
ries from a setting which traditionally offered
an alternative to addictive behavior, to one
that solely existed to promote the role of
socialization in Dutch society.
According to an ethnographic study con-
ducted by Dr. Patricia Nathe at University of
California Berkeley, there are “two general
categories of reasons given by individuals
to explain why they spend time in coffee
houses”, however one of the most important
is fulfilling the “needs of regulars to be filled by the ‘hangout’ or
company of others.” From here, she goes on to explain that the
“announced or official purpose in the case of the coffee house is
often an excuse to see and enjoy the company of others” (Nathe,
78-79). While her study focuses specifically on a coffee house
in the United States, the principles may be easily applied to the
social environment of coffee houses in the Netherlands.

The sole element of socialization has been crucial to the devel-

opment of the coffee house throughout history, and has proved
to be the single most important aspect of the “hangout” tradi-
tion. Nathes describes the “hangout” as a “place to which a per-
son can go and remain long after there is any practical necessity
… if a hangout is a restaurant, a person can sit for hours, whether
or not and long after he or she has drunk a cup of coffee” (81).
Furthermore, throughout the development of this tradition, it
may be noted that the “management of the establishment must
cooperate in the creation or colonization of a hangout, by wel-
coming loiterers” (84) which has become the primary element of
the coffee house’s longevity.
community
the modern
c o f f e e h o u s e

XX sources from around the world XX

the modern
coffee house
Today, Dutch coffee houses strive to uphold
and continue the traditions established by their
historical counterparts. While the goal of the
modern coffee house is no longer focused on
promoting the sobriety of the working class, it
still focuses on the importance of social rela-
tionships, as well as the “hangout” atmosphere.
Throughout my research, I had the opportunity
to observe the role these meeting places have
on the function of Dutch culture. Additionally, I
worked to identify the role they play in the dai-
ly routine of coffee drinkers in the Netherlands.
While I observed a variety of things, there were
a few things that stood out the most to me:
1) “Take-away” coffee is almost unheard of
2) It’s nearly impossible to enter and exit a
coffee house without engaging in some sort of
conversation
Netherlands it’s still very much a back into my three major observa- which coffee houses are near
3) Coffee houses represent the true center of
filter coffee culture – so drinking tions. their friends and loved ones, and
any social circle; friends, family, business, etc.
coffee at home, at best at work – with that, these adjustments soon
so the ‘to go’ coffee culture is still We’ve always heard the phrase extended their circles to include
According to an article published by Radio
in its infancy.” With this, my time in “home is where the heart is”, and the staff and owners of the coffee
Netherlands Worldwide (RNW Media) earlier
the Netherlands confirmed these while this is true in the Nether- houses as well. More specifically, it
this year, there has been a lot of conversation
assertions. Though I was not given lands, it may be altered to use cof- seemed that the houses outside of
surrounding the question of whether or not
the chance to experience the tradi- fee house in place of home. While the city center were more adjusted
the Dutch are “ready” for a new coffee culture.
tional, in-home filter coffee prac- this may seem cliche, it holds true to accommodating families and
The article states, “It’s true the Dutch have a
tices, almost every coffee house for almost all of the coffee houses close social groups than shops
long history of drinking coffee, so they have
I went into mirrored an at home I visited. The Dutch seemed to close to downtown.
a strong coffee culture, but then again if you
atmosphere - which perfectly ties build their entire routine around
look the current coffee-drinking trend in the
According to my observations, coffee houses near major
parks and neighborhoods in Amsterdam were the epitome
of the “home-away-from-home” environment. These shops
offered a relaxed atmosphere full of couches, large tables
for groups to gather, and even individual reading nooks
with small desks for solo visitors. With this, I discovered
that there was no pressure for visitors to order upon their
arrival, and when they did order, guests didn’t pay until
they left. This is consistent with Nathe’s study, as these
home environments are conducive to “intimacy, informality,
uninhibited behavior, and comfort” in which the employees
and regulars determine the atmosphere (83).

Still, the coffee houses near the city center still followed
the same “at-home” principles of relaxed environments,
welcoming staff, and operated on the principle of only
paying just before you leave - as the social experience and
enjoying the coffee were the highest priority.
coffee isn’t
always coffee
Before arriving in Amsterdam to begin my coffee
house observations, I learned a tough lesson. Original-
ly, this project was to explore the role of the cof-
feeshop in the lives of Dutch citizens, however after
conducting some initial research, I soon realized that
the term “coffeeshop” should be eliminated from my
vocabulary - at least during my time overseas.
Much to my surprise, the term “coffeeshop” in the
Netherlands means something entirely different than
it does in the states. Due to a long history of culture
and tolerance, the Dutch response to illicit drugs
translated into decades of judgement-free approach-
es. Historically, according to Grund and Breeksema,
“a central element of modern Dutch drug policy was
a crucial decision to establish a legal and practical
separation of cannabis” essentially posing cannabis
as an “acceptable risk to consumers and society” as a
way to deter individuals from hard drugs, as they were
considered “unacceptable risks” (10). This simple
approach allowed the Dutch to effectively decrimi-
nalize the possession and use of cannabis, ultimately
opening an avenue for “small-scale cannabis sales”
which eventually evolved into the well-known Dutch
“coffeeshops”.
These coffeeshops have allowed cannabis consumers
throughout the country to “avoid exposure to hard
drug scenes and markets… [as well as] the profound
costs of carrying a criminal record, and cost of
incarceration for minor offenses”(13). These policies
were developed from the “bottom up” through a
system of trial and error at the local level, through
the participation of “local officials in consultation
with representatives from civil society … supported
by national policy makers” (15).

Nevertheless, these policies have played a large

role in the environment of the modern Dutch coffee
shop. Surprisingly, according to my observations,
Dutch coffee shops and coffee houses operate al-
most identically; the only notable difference is what
is being sold. During my stay, I think it is safe to say
that for every coffee house I saw, there are at least
two coffee shops nearby. Additionally, despite early
efforts to enforce regulations for green signage and
basement locations, it can often be difficult to tell
which is which if you aren’t paying close attention.
the brews
exploring
brandmeester’s
premium roasted coffee
After a lengthy first morning of avoiding bicycles and walk-
ing along the picturesque canals of historic Amsterdam, I
stopped into Brandmeesters Premium Roasted Coffee for a
midday pick-me up.

I ordered a classic Americano, as I was still attempting to get

used to navigating the Dutch menu boards. Although I often
order Americanos in the States, this one was served different-
ly. The Barista handed over a mini teacup-sized mug complete
with an espresso shot and about 1/4 cup of water.

Instead of the typical, almost heavy, classic espresso taste,

this blend was light, smooth and clear, complete with fruity
notes at the end which was much more refreshing than I was
expecting.
From here, I couldn’t help but notice the atmosphere. While
Brandmeesters is housed in an extremely small space, it was
very welcoming and there were no open seats in the house.
There were a number of high-topped tables for two, and
one large couch in addition to a number of standing reading
nooks. I spent about 30 minutes in Brandmeesters to enjoy
my Americano, and in that time, I noticed only genuine con-
versation among visitors.
caffenation
I woke up on my second day in the Netherlands craving
espresso, so I left my hotel to resume my caffeinated quest.
On my walk into the city center, I decided to pass through
Rembrandt park - a more relaxed, residential area near the
heart of the city, and I am so glad I did.
I came across a small coffee house called “Caffenation” on
a street corner, and I decided to stop in. From the outside,
it seemed like a typical coffee house, however as soon as I
stepped inside, I discovered that there was much more to
it.
Inside the shop felt a lot like I was a guest in the owner’s
home, as you walk directly into what looks like a standard
apartment kitchen. Everyone was lounging around at
couches and tables with their families - even dogs! Some
guests read the daily news and worked on projects, while
I observed a couple teaching their toddler to walk in the
main room.
Definitely not what you would expect to see in an American
coffee shop.
From here, I picked up a menu by the door complete with a
long list of espresso drinks. When I went up to the counter
to order, I soon realized it wasn’t standard practice for this
coffee house - the owner seemed surprised, and motioned
for me to make myself comfortable at the table. When he
came over to my seat, I ordered a Muskat, which ended up
being a close equivalent to an American vanilla cappuccino.
Throughout my time at this shop in particular, I think it is
important to mention that I did not see anyone on their
phones - only engaging with those around them. Coming
from the States where it often feels like there is no time
to waste, it was refreshing to see individuals engaging with
each other and creating a strong sense of community.
‘t blauue My “quick pass” through Rembrandt park took a lot longer
than I had expected, so about 90 minutes or so after my
Inside the shack there were coffee, craft beer and break-
fast menus to order from. After ordering, I was instructed

teehuis
stop at Caffenation, I was ready for some breakfast. I stum- to find a seat outside and wait to be served.
bled upon a small coffee house called T’Blauue Teehuis and
stopped in to see what I could find. While the food and coffee were both great, the atmosphere
is what made this one of my top spots. Because of the
This stop was extremely unique, as the setup was different outdoor environment, the seating area was even more open
than anything I had seen before. In order to get to T’Blauue, and relaxed than the others. People brought their children,
you must pass over a small creek and then through some dogs and newspapers to enjoy conversation or a good read
trees to find the entrance. From here, I was met with a in the middle of the park.
small coffee “shack” stationed in the middle of a circle of
outdoor tables and chairs for guests - a great spot for a cup
in nice weather.
the village
coffee & music
On my last full day in the Netherlands,
I was fortunate enough to meet up with
my friend Marlous in Utrecht; a small
town in Noord-Amsterdam, about 30
miles from where I was staying. Marlous
and I met seven years ago in our French
II class during her time as a foreign
exchange student at my high school.
Before long, we became friends, but
eventually lost touch when she moved
back to the Netherlands.
When my proposal for this project was
finally approved, I reached out to her
with hopes of catching up and experi-
encing the best spots for coffee through
the eyes of a local. She accepted, and
proceeded to take me to a couple of
coffee houses in her hometown.
Among the shops we visited, my fa-
vorite was Village Coffee and Music in
the heart of downtown Utrecht. While
all of the other coffee houses I visited
throughout my stay were focused on
conversation, I found this one to be the
most interesting, as the majority of their
regulars are musicians. Instead of engag-
ing in a classic conversation, most of the
visitors who came through were bearing
instruments; participating in seemingly
impromptu jam-sessions over a cup of
coffee. The sense of community created
not only through the conversation, but
the connections through music, allowed
me to truly experience the “hangout”
tradition.
about the
author
Sarah Lawrence is a senior at Oakland Unversity
in studying Graphic Design and Communication.
During her time as a four-year member of the
Honors College, she has pursued her passion for
the written word and clear, visual presentation
to develop a career as a communication design
professional.

In the summer of 2018, she had the opportunity

to travel abroad to England and the Netherlands
through the Honors College. Throughout her
studies, she also completed the social and cultural
observations for this piece.
 important
thank you’s
To Holly Shreve Gilbert, Adjunct
Instructor of Journalism in the
Department of Communication
and Journalism at Oakland Univer-
sity for providing the mentorship
and structure to make this project
possible.
XX
To Randall Engle, PhD, Professor of
Religious Studies in the Department
of Religious Studies at Oakland
University for providing mentorship
and wisdom for my experience
abroad, in addition to important
insight on Dutch culture and
customs.
To Pam Bunka, Yearbook Advisor
and journalism instructor at Fenton
High School for providing the
support, mentorship, and inspiration
to pursue a future in the applied
arts.