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International Journal of
1 Gastronomy and
Food Science
3
International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]]
www.elsevier.com/locate/ijgfs
5
Scientific paper
7
Q2 Introduction of a new family of ice creams
9
Q1 Camila Fiola, Diego Pradob, Cesar Romeroa, Nerea Laburua, María Morab, J. Iñaki Alavaa
11 a
Basque Culinary Center, Faculty of Gastronomy and Culinary Arts, Mondragon University, St. Paseo Juan Avelino Barriola 101, 20009 San Sebastián,
Donostia, Spain
13 b
BCC INNOVATION, St. Paseo Juan Avelino Barriola 101, 20009 San Sebastián, Donostia, Spain

15 Received 13 October 2015; accepted 7 December 2016

17
Abstract
19
Q3 Usually most of the ice cream manufacture was made by experiential work in kitchens, thought years of work and experience making it a
21 handcrafted work, proving most of the knowledge we have today making Angelo Corvitto (Corvitto, 2011), the main source of information for
culinary proposals.
23 We present and characterize a new family of ice cream formulation according to its physiochemical characteristics through the use of lactose
and sodium casein as the main ingredients of the formula. Avoiding use dairy (milk, cream, etc…), we don’t have use milk fat flavor that dilute
25 main flavor in the mixture. We may use different types of fats from any origin and different types of liquids substituting the water and milk fats
from the juice and emulsion that the user liked, in this new ice cream family.
27 & 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
29
Keywords: Ice cream; Milk; Casein; Lactose; Dairy; Formulation; Protein; Sodium casein

31
33 Introduction
35 By definition “ice cream is a liquid mixture that turns into a
paste after simultaneously shaking and cooling” (Corvitto,
37 2011), although the definition of ice cream varies from country
to country due to differing regulations and traditions of
39 composition (Clark, 2012; Goff and Hartel, 2013).
In the ice cream mix that will become ice cream are so many
41 elements of different nature as sugars, fats, dairy, stabilizer,
water, among others. And they all have to be correctly blended
43 and emulsified together so there is nothing left behind that may
reduce the quality of the final product. Making this possible
45 considering the characteristics and behaviors of each ingredient
and the relationships between them is what is known as the
47 balancing exercise. We can make it stable and spreadable at
negative temperature from
11 to
18 1C (standard ice cream
49 serving temperatures) (Corvitto, 2011).
In ice cream making, the first step is to blend a series of liquid
51 and solid ingredients in different orders and temperatures,
53
Peer review under responsibility of AZTI-Tecnalia.
55 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
1878-450X/& 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license
57 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
59
obtaining a liquid mixture also called “mix”. After the proces-
sing and pasteurization process, this mixture is poured into an 61
ice cream machine in which, it incorporates a quantity of air
between 30% and 40% (overrun) that is held or set by cooling at 63
negative temperatures and the result is a semi-solid spreadable
and moist past mixture. 65
This liquid mixture turned into ice cream will present
specific characteristics of taste, structure and texture, deter- 67
mined by quality of ingredients used, mix balance and
manufacturing process, the standard parameters for a dairy 69
base ice cream is 64% water, 18% sugars, 10% non-fat milk
solids and 8% milk solid fats, all these parameters, is expected 71
to have a stable structure maintaining its characteristics in
negative temperature with smooth texture (without appearance 73
of ice crystals), spreadable (can work at their preservation
temperature) and stable (maintain his characteristics at serving 75
temperature) (Corvitto, 2011).
According to other authors a standard ice cream is about 77
30% ice, 50% air (the main role is to make it soft), 5% fat and
15% sugar solution by volume. The composition for a standard 79
ice cream is; Fat 7–15%, Milk protein 4–5%, Lactose 5–7%,
81
83

Please cite this article as: Fiol, C., et al., Introduction of a new family of ice creams. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.
org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
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1 Other sugars 12–16%, Stabilizers, emulsifiers and flavors Methods 59

Q4 0.5%, Total solids 28–40%, Water 60–72% (Clark, 2012)
3 (Goff, 1997). Experimental design 61
Also the range in composition may be fat, 8 – 20%; MSNF,
5 8 – 15%; sugar, 13 – 20% stabilizer – emulsifier, 0 – 0.7%; and Both ice cream, classical and new one are prepared on time. 63
total solids, 36 – 43%. (Ice Cream W. S. Arbuckle) and an Preliminary physic-chemical parameters such as spread ability
7 average ice cream contains 3–4 times more fat and about 12– analysis, meltdown analysis, pH, microstructure and titratable 65
16% more protein than milk does (Goff and Hartel, 2013). acidity were determined by standard procedures at the labora-
9 Smooth ice cream requires the majority of ice crystals to be tory and kitchen at Basque Culinary Center. Six experiments are 67
smaller than about 50 mm in size. Ice crystals larger than 40– performed in each determination (n¼ 6) and twelve in case of
11 55 mm leave a coarse and sandy texture (Arbuckle and analysis (n¼ 12). Data were represented as means7SD of n¼ 6 69
Marshall, 2012). Ice crystals in ice cream generally range samples per group and were analyzed by Student's t-test. Finally
13 from 20 to 100 mm (Buyong and Fennema, 1988). Fat content organoleptic and culinary capabilities are also compared. 71
influence the size of the ice crystals in fat globules and impede
15 the ice crystal growth (Arbuckle and Marshall, 2012). Ice creams preparation 73
Sucrose reduces ice crystal growth rate (Buyong and
17 Fennema, 1988) and a higher content produces smaller ice Angelo Corvitto (Corvitto, 2011) formula: Weight all the 75
crystals. An increase in sugar content from 12% to 18% ingredients separately. Pour the milk and cream in a saucepan,
19 decreases ice crystal size by 25% approximately (Arbuckle and add the milk powder and dextrose. Place it at 40 1C on 77
Marshall, 2012). medium heat. From 401 C pour the stabilizer mixed with some
21 The aim developing, this new family of ice creams was to sucrose, the rest of it and the invert sugar. Stir with a manual 79
obtain pure flavors, more stability and the use of different fats whisk and bring the mixture to 851 C (minimum one minute).
23 replacing the total milk fat of the mix. Cool as quickly as possibleto 4 1C in a blast chiller and let it 81
Pure flavors, because if you make the ice cream balance mature in the refrigerator for 6–12 h. Mix it with a hand
25 with “white cream” base you always had to dilute the flavors blender, until homogeneity, before churning. Freeze at
18 1C 83
with dairy flavors such as cream, milk powder and milk. More (Table 1).
27 stability because the making process habitually denaturalized New ice cream elaboration process: Weight all of the 85
the casein (k-casein) brings it to 85 1C in the pasteurization. ingredients separately. Pour the water in a saucepan, add the
29 Casein is the main emulsifier protein in the ice cream mix; it lactose, glycerin, inverted sugar, dextrose and half of the 87
has good emulsifying and foaming properties. In standard ice sucrose. From 401 C pour the stabilizer mixed with the rest of
31 creams (Corvitto's white cream or ice cream mixture like), milk sucrose. Stir with a manual whisk and bring the mixture to 89
are not allowing to replace a 100% of different fats (such as 851 C. Cool as quickly as possibleto 40 1C in a blast chiller
33 olive oil, pork fat, peanut oil, etc.). Milk fats produce a and then add the casein and keep at higher speed with the help 91
characteristic dairy flavor, probably due their vitamins content of an Immersion blender for 10 min, pour the sunflower oil
35 (Shipe and Charalambous, 1980). Also lactose can absorb 10 little by little and emulsify. Let it mature in the refrigerator for 93
times its weight in water, and Milk powder contains 50% 6 h. After churning, put the ice cream in an ice cold steel
37 lactose, so it can absorb 5 times its weight in water (Corvitto, container. Freeze in a blast chiller at
40 1C until it is 95
2011). Due to their composition, is near impossible, to obtain completely frozen. Move to a freezer at
18 1C (Table 2).
39 pure flavors with dairy products based ice creams. 97
In the new ice cream presented, balance is obtained not
41 using any dairy mix. In substitution, it will be a fully watery Ice creams analysis 99
taste which allows us to obtain pure flavors using aromatic fats
43 or different watery parts (fruit juices, broths, mushroom water, Spread ability analysis 101
etc). Both ice cream were placed separately on a silicon mold
45 These ice-cream casein emulsion based, is not inside with cubes of 2  2 cm2. Place them in the blast chiller at 103
Corvitto's 16 families of ice cream, previously described.
30 1C for half hour, unmold and place them separately in
47 Has all the organoleptic characteristic of a regular “white 105
Table 1
cream” ice cream but an equal or better controlled physic- Angelo Corvitto’s cream base
18 ºC.
49 chemical structure, without dairy flavor induction. 107
Classic (Corvito’s) ice Cream formulation
51 Materials 109
567 cc Whole milk
172 cc Heavy cream
53 Whole milk UHT, heavy cream, skimmed milk powder, 42 gr Skimmed milk powder 111
dextrose (Sosa Co), sucrose, inverted sugar, stabilizer (Sevar- 137 gr Dextrose
55 ome ice cream 64 G) Natural water (pH 8.8), Sodium casein 26 gr Inverted sugar 113
50 gr Sucrose
(Sosa Co.), lactose (Mugaritz Experiences), glycerin, Refined
6 gr Stabilizer
57 sunflower oil (100%). 115

Please cite this article as: Fiol, C., et al., Introduction of a new family of ice creams. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.
org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
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1 Table 2 that drained into a graduated cylinder on top of a balance at a 59

New ice cream base
18 ºC. room temperature of 227 0.5 1C at constant humidity. Take
3 New ice cream formula
notice to the fall of the first drop (Rigey et al., 2012) and the 61
weight of the melted ice cream every 10 min to the time the ice
5 630 cc Water cream is completely melted (Clark, 2012; Goff and Hartel, 63
38 gr Casein 2013).
52 gr Lactose
7 65
52 gr Sucrose
70 gr Dextrose Microstructural analysis
9 19 gr Glycerin 67
53 gr Inverted sugar Direct observation method by optical microscopy with
11 6 gr Stabilizer episcopic coaxial lighting was originally developed by the 69
80 cc Sunflower oil
physicists studying the polar ices structures (Arnaud et al.,
13 1998) and this method was adapted to ice cream by Faydi et al. 71
(2001) to characterize the frozen structure of an ice cream mix.
15 This method is essentially based on the light flux reflected by 73
the surface of the sample. For example, at the air bubbles
17 surfaces which are present in the case of commercial ice 75
creams containing overrun. (Goff, 1997), (Caillet et al., 2003).
19 A think slide (1 mm thick) of new formed ice cream is stored 77
48 h a
18 1C in a dry air glove box, until the ice cream
21 matured.(Degner BM et al., 2014). 79
After obtaining a suitable surface quality, the ice cream
23 sample was directly observed, still at
18 1C inside the cold 81
room, with a digital stereomicroscope (DINOLITE), equipped
25 Fig. 1. Photo of spread ability assay. Measure of hardened ice creams spread at with a digital video camera and an a led light source providing 83

18ºC. The cube is 2 cm3 the image analysis has been performed using Fiji the episcopic coaxial lighting. The video microscope was
image analysis program and time-lapsed photos.
27 placed inside the cold room and the images were stored with a 85
laptop located outside the cold chamber. All the optical
two hermetic plastic containers on the freezer at
18 1C for
29 material in the cold room was placed inside a dry air glove 87
3 h. On a walk-in freezer at
18 1C place a tray with a 30 cm
box in slight overpressure with respect to the cold chamber
steel rule along, and place an ice cream cube next to a ruler
31 pressure to avoid humidity condensation or frost problems at 89
with a lab glass plate and a steel weight of 100gr on top.
the frozen sample surface or at the surface of the microscope
Taking a picture every 2 min for 12 min, six times each ice
33 oculars (Degner et al., 2013). 91
cream (Fig. 1).
35 Sensory analysis 93
PH
37 pH of both ice creams were measured with a HI98127 The sensory analysis were performed with a descriptive 95
Waterproof PH Temperature Tester Hanna Instruments accord- panel consisted of 53 untrained panelists from San Sebastián -
39 ing to standard procedure as describes in AOAC 981.12 Donostia (28 females and 25 males (from) 20–52 years old), 97
(Association of Official Analytical Chemists., 1984). pH of less than half with gastronomic knowledge, using a structured
41 both ice creams were measured during production steps, 9-point hedonic scale ranging from 1 (disliked it extremely) to 99
freshly made, after the maturation and hardened for a month 9 (liked it extremely). Hardened ice-cream samples were tested
43 at
18 1C. at a serving temperature of
18 1C, both samples of Ice cream 101
were evaluated for the odor, color, taste and texture.
45 Titratable acidity 103
The acidity was determined with a standardized solution of
47 0.1 N sodium hydroxide (4.00 g of NaOH per liter) and taking 105
10gr of each sample adding 90 ml of distilled water with added
49 phenolphthalein indicator (prepared at 1% in ethanol at 95%) 107
and titrated until the first dye of light pink is permanent.
51 Acidity is expressed as percentage of lactic acid (1 ml of 0.1 N 109
NaOH ¼ 0.009 g lactic acid) (Goff and Hartel, 2013; Wehr
53 and Frank, 2004). 111

55 Meltdown 113
Six samples of 50 g of each ice cream at
18 1C were Fig. 2. Evolution of pH values during different production steps (n ¼6). 1 -
57 placed on a 8 wires/645,16mm2 wire gauze fitted in a funnel Before 85ºC, 2 – Ice cream mix, 3 – ice matured, 4 – Overrun. 115

Please cite this article as: Fiol, C., et al., Introduction of a new family of ice creams. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.
org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
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1 59

3 61

5 63

7 65

9 67

11 69
Fig. 3. pH of both hardened ice creams at
18 ºC in days (n¼ 6). Fig. 5. Titratable acidity of both hardened ice creams (final ice cream) diluted
in distilled water (n ¼6).
13 71

15 Table 3 73
First drop and meltdown of both hardened ice creams at
18 ºC.
17 Samples Fall firt drop (min) Fall last drop (min) Foam (%)
75

19 New ice Cream 11:25 90 2,5 77

Standard Ice Cream 11:53 200 19,8
21 79

23 Meltdown 81
Fig. 4. Spread ability of both hardened ice creams at
18 ºC (n ¼12).
25 The new ice cream melts faster than standard ice cream, 83
melting completely to a 97,2% leaving only a 2,5% of foam,
Approximately 20 g of each sample was placed in a 50 ml
27 and standard ice cream exhibits shape retention and melts to a 85
disposable cup which was coded with three-digit different
80,2% (Table 3) leaving 19,8% of foam on the wire gauze,
numbers; 509: new ice cream and 463: standard ice cream.
29 seeing that the new ice cream has a better homogenized 87
The panelists performed the analysis in a chamber and had
structure.
no specific information about the experimental design with the
31 2 ice cream, (standard and new), made with mushroom flavor. 89
Microstructure
33 91
Results The comparison between ice creams shows a more regular
35 structure inside the new ice cream. Casein micelles, fat 93
PH values of new ice cream are greater than those of globules and ice crystals have a very regular distribution
37 standard ice cream, but the different is continuously reducing (Fig. 7) This distribution is less regular inside standard ice 95
until final gas introduction, in these step the pH of both is cream (Fig. 8) and no regular with too much gas bubbles inside
39 similar (Fig. 2). the commercial one's (Fig. 9). 97
PH evolution shows in Fig. 3 shows that “standard ice
41 cream” is stable in 30 days period and the “new ice cream” Sensory analysis 99
needs 24 h to stabilized obtaining a basic pH than “standard ice
43 cream” pH 7,8 and pH 8,3 respectively. The sensory evaluation carried out by the panelists recog- 101
nized the new ice cream as very strong and pure in flavor, it
45 was characterized by the highest scores of smell, taste and 103
Spread ability analysis
texture. Both ice creams show a similar acceptability in
47 consumers with a preference tendency for the new ice cream. 105
As seeing in the Fig. 4, spread ability of both hardened ice
creams at
18 1C, even that share a similar structure, the new
49 Discussion 107
formulation is more stable and expands less thought time and
in the minute 8 the expansion starts to be significantly different
51 The use of natural emulsifiers as source of industrial food 109
(po 0,001, 12 min).
emulsions is growing day bay day (Ozturk, B. and McCle-
53 ments, D.J.) Ice cream is a three stage colloidal dispersion, air 111
Titratable acidity bubbles, ice crystals and emulsified and dispersed fat globules.
55 (Marshall et al., 2003; Clark, 2012). A key component in the 113
As we can see in Fig. 5, the acidity of new ice cream is very dispersed phase is fat. The fat which is incorporated in ice
57 low, due to lack of lactic acid, in their composition. cream is mainly dairy, vegetable, or both. Use addition of 115

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org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
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1 59

3 61

5 63

7 65

9 67

11 69

13 71
Fig. 6. Meltdown of both hardened ice creams at
18 ºC (n ¼6 in each time).
15 73

17 75

19 77

21 79

23 81

25 83

27 85

29 87

31 Fig. 7. New ice cream microstructure (250  magnification). Fig. 8. Standard ice cream microstructure (200  magnification). 89

33 different types of vegetable fat with different degrees of 91

unsaturation (such as sunflower oil or palm oil) may result in
35 different structural units, improving the stability and melting 93
time of ice cream (Mendez-Velasco and Goff, 2012b). Fat
37 plays a vital role in the ice cream as it, lowers melting point, 95
stabilizes and promotes the incorporation and dispersion of air,
39 increases the viscosity, imparts aroma and promotes the 97
formation of ice crystals (Bolliger et al., 2000; Chung et al.,
41 2003; Clarke, 2012; Granger et al., 2005; Goff, 1997). 99
The traditional ice cream is formed starting with a standard
43 “white” base of dairy emulsifiers (milk o milk derived products). 101
This standard base is use to obtain others flavors than dairy
45 one's, but at the end all the other flavors will be secondary 103
because it already has the main lactic flavor, always diluting the
47 wished flavor. This doesn’t happen with the new family of ice 105
creams because it doesn’t have lactic flavors, it has an aqueous Fig. 9. Commercial ice cream microstructure (200  magnification).
49 flavor like a sorbet (Clark, 2012; Goff and Hartel, 2013), but 107
with all the organoleptic characteristics of a white cream base sodium casein as substitute of a concentrated milk protein and
51 ice cream, allowing to get primary flavors without the inter- inulin to get fat reduced ice creams (Mahdian and Karazhian, 109
ference of lactic flavor, being a neutral ice cream base “not 2013).
53 white”. The main difference is also the absence of milk vitamins In terms of ice cream properties in relationship with 111
in the composition besides the preparation methods. “standard” ice cream the new ice cream has pH evolution
55 The use of pure sodium casein and pure lactose create new during production but the same pH those standards in bubble 113
ice creams with pure flavors without dairy flavors interference. generation step (Fig. 2). Better pH evolution during the
57 Similar methods has been used in the ice cream industry using maturation time (obviously lack of acid lactic fermentation) 115

Please cite this article as: Fiol, C., et al., Introduction of a new family of ice creams. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.
org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
 IJGFS : 55

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1 59

3 61

5 63

7 65

9 67

11 69

13 71

15 73

17 75

19 77

21 79

23 81

25 83

27 85

29 87

31 89

33 91
Fig. 10. Sensory evaluation of both mushroom flavors, ice creams at
18 ºC.
35 93
(Fig. 3). The new ice cream family have less spreadability (Fig. the ice cream field and even in different frozen desserts. In the
37 4) and less acidity (Fig. 5), better meltdown and melting point case of this new ice cream it can show that is equal or more 95
(Fig. 6, Table 3) an in general a more ordered microstructure stable than standard ice cream, has a purest flavor and may be
39 (Figs. 7–9). produced with or without any kind of fat (animal, vegetable o 97
At the end they are not significant differences in consumer's synthetic) without residual dairy flavor, and equally accepted
41 perception between new and standard ice cream for the same by consumer or even more accepted in some parameters. 99
flavor level (Fig. 10). In addition, the more ordered the structure the easier to
43 Even melting analysis shows that the new ice cream melted control microstructure with small variations of formulation. 101
faster (Fig. 6), later works shows that with modified the actual
45 process parameters we can adjust the melting time depending 103
on which product we need (data not showed).
47 We have seeing many future possibilities depending on the Uncited references Q5 105
test methods, getting different results with a same formula
49 even getting stable mousse textures at
11 1C which allow us Degner et al. (2014), Donhowe et al. (1991) and Ozturk and 107
to investigate a new spectrum of more controllable and stable McClements (2016).
51 frozen desserts. 109

53 111
Conclusions Acknowledgements
55 113
This new ice cream family shows many improvements for We express our gratitude to Basque Culinary Research
57 the ice cream production scene, opening new possibilities in Centre, to provide us the labs to perform analysis of this study. 115

Please cite this article as: Fiol, C., et al., Introduction of a new family of ice creams. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.
org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.12.001
 IJGFS : 55
C. Fiol et al. / International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]]
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