Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Sasha Archibald
Spring 2014
Two hours east of Los Angeles, three hours west of Las Vegas, and many
miles from the nearest traffic light or roadside diner lies a single boulder in
the Mojave Desert claimed to be the largest rock in the world—at least until
2000, when a large chunk broke off, neatly and without provocation. Now
split in two, it is still called Giant Rock. Graffiti blackens the lower surface
and ATVs roar nearby. There is an occasional tourist.
For two eccentric Californians, Frank Critzer and George Van Tassel, the
immense girth of Giant Rock was not simple geological happenstance but a
sign portending mystical significance. In the hands of these two men, Giant
Rock became the locus of a strange episode in the twentieth-century
history of the American West. Like all Western heroes, Critzer and Van
Tassel felt themselves poised between worlds, and at the threshold of
civilization. Both felt vitalized and validated by the rock, and both saw it as
a natural hub, laboring for decades to make it a gathering place. Absolutely
inert and yet fecund, Giant Rock was less a rock than a destiny.
There is little trace of this history at the rock itself, except for a dusty slab
of concrete. The concrete conceals a cavern, built by Critzer as a home, and
later used by Van Tassel for telecommunication sessions with aliens. No
one knows how Critzer stumbled on Giant Rock in the 1930s, or why he
decided to move there, but he was obviously clever and resourceful. Critzer
saw that the rock’s immense shadow offered succor from the heat and,
following the lead of desert tortoises that dig holes in the sand in which to
cool themselves, he used dynamite to blast out an abode beneath its north
face. Engineering a rainwater-collection system and a narrow tunnel for
ventilation, the home he excavated was never warmer than eighty degrees
Fahrenheit and never cooler than fifty-five. Perfectly suited to its site,
Critzer’s abode refuted the paradigmatic inhospitality of the desert.
By 1941, Critzer’s Giant Rock Airport averaged a plane a day, flown mainly
by amateur pilots who also kept Critzer supplied with food and company.
As legend goes, his visitors ate German pancakes at his kitchen table, their
legs propped up on spare boxes of dynamite. Critzer hoped to spur
investment in the area, and fantasized about opening a winter resort. His
plans came to naught. On 25 July 1942, during a police visit gone awry,
Critzer’s stash of dynamite exploded and he was killed. His exit from Giant
Rock is as shrouded in mystery as his entrance; according to various
accounts, the three officers were inquiring about missing dynamite, or
gasoline theft, or the antennae Critzer used to attract a radio signal. Some
speculated that the combination of a German name and isolated airfield
during World War II justified a visit. Perhaps the explosion was an
accident, or perhaps it happened exactly as the officers claimed, with
Critzer shrieking, “You’re not taking me out of here alive! I’m going, but
another way, and you’re going with me!” before he blew himself up.4
One man was particularly intrigued by these events, and made his way out
to Giant Rock from Los Angeles as soon as he could.5 Thirty-two-year-old
George Van Tassel noted that when he arrived, Critzer’s cavern was
stripped of belongings and the car gone. The only trace of Giant Rock’s
tenant was a bit of blood splattered on the walls of his cave. The United
States still had several laws in place that rewarded intrepid settlers with
free land, such that Critzer’s industriousness at Giant Rock almost
certainly would have guaranteed him legal ownership. At his death,
however, the land reverted back to the government’s newly created Bureau
of Land Management (BLM). Van Tassel was not deterred, and began
brewing a plan to relocate. Five years later, in 1947, he managed to lease
the property from the BLM and left Los Angeles for good, bringing along
his wife, Eva, and their three young daughters.
Giant Rock today. Photo Sasha Archibald.
There is little record of Van Tassel’s life other than his own words. He
dropped out of high school in Ohio and emigrated to southern California,
joining the World War II-era aeronautics industry at a time of unparalleled
growth and expansion. Though he later glorified his career, describing
himself as a flight test engineer, test pilot, or even personal pilot to Howard
Hughes, he told the 1940 census-takers he was a tradesman, a tool and die
maker. At the time, he was working for the Douglas Aircraft Company in
Santa Monica and living in a modest home with his wife and children, as
well as his mother-in-law and his wife’s three younger siblings. He moved
from Douglas to Hughes Aircraft, and then to Lockheed, leaving the
factories for good in 1947, a year of massive layoffs as aeronautics
production recalibrated to peacetime. The vacancy of Giant Rock must
have presented itself as a golden opportunity.
Relieved of his nine-to-five job and invigorated by the desert environs, Van
Tassel began a flurry of activity—writing, meditating, publishing, and
building. He founded a religious non-profit, the Ministry of Universal
Wisdom, and an associated college, and began mass mailing its official
organ, the Proceedings of the College of Universal Wisdom. In a few short
years, Van Tassel emerged as a central figure in atomic-era ufology. His
first book, I Rode a Flying Saucer (1952), was a diary of alien messages
“radioned” by otherworldly intelligences to Van Tassel’s telepathic mind;
shortly after, he met aliens in the flesh, whom he described as “white
people with a good healthy tan,” all measuring exactly five feet six inches.6
The leader, Solganda, spoke excellent English “equivalent to [actor] Ronald
Colman,” and through thought transference conveyed to Van Tassel
directions for building a time machine, the Integratron.7 The Integratron
was to become Van Tassel’s lasting monument.
Van Tassel’s boulder, crowned with a car hoisted using a windlass and
cable, was featured as a “Picture of the Week” in the 15 October 1951 issue
of Life. Photo Larry Frank.
Devotees claim that Van Tassel’s plans for completing the design were
stolen, but he may have had no plans. He alternately described the device
as very complicated and very simple, and was always inscrutable when
pressed about mechanical details. During one television interview, he
boasted vaguely that the Integratron was built following the directives of a
seventeen-page equation given to him by aliens and tested by specialists in
Chicago; elsewhere he said the formula was very simple and made known
to him by alien thought transference: f=1/t where (f) is frequency and (t) is
time.
At dusk at Giant Rock, Van Tassel’s fanaticisms seem benign. To the urban
traveler, the desert landscape feels so still and empty that to entertain an
improbable something is a sympathetic alternative to accepting an
apparent nothing. Van Tassel and Critzer understood the desert void to be
a deception; emptiness was only a disguise for an invisible force field, a
potent thrum of archaic energy. Van Tassel liked to muse on the fact that
his first name, George, contained not one but two combinations of the
letters ge, which he understood to be an acronym for Generate Electricity,
while Critzer, not to be outdone by his successor, is remembered for
boasting that his body was so full of energy he could recharge batteries by
sleeping with them under his pillow. In the midst of a blistering nothing,
Giant Rock was the totemic conductor of a great something.