W !

N E
W E LO V E C R A F T

Crochet C H R I S T M A S
find me on
page 26!
ocply ES FROM
Cr SiFmAVOURITYOUR

t
he

Patterns to
crochet today!

BRIGHT elf SerVice fun IdeAs for Kids

CHRISTMAS!
HOOK YOURSELF A HAPPY
HOLIDAY SEASON

FesTive StyLe LuxUry to Wear

SeaSonal SpaRkle get the ParTy Look ScaNdi Chic TraDiTion With a TwiSt! QuiCk MakEs Easy DecOrAtiOns
Crochet
C H R I S T M A S
 96

Hello
Crochet C H R I S T M A S

Managing Editor: Charlotte Martyn

Art Editor: Rob Eyres
Production Editors: Jenny May Forsyth,
Cecilia Forfitt

Simply Crochet editorial team

W
Group Senior Editor: Julie Taylor
Editor-in-Chief: Debora Bradley
elcome to YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS,
Senior Art Editor: Louise Day a very merry collection of over 60 of our
Art Editor: Charlene Lim
Commissioning Editor: Sara Huntington favourite patterns to inspire your festive
Production Editor: Becca Parker
Technical Assistant: Cara Medus crocheting, whether you’re hooking a gift for a
Photography: Joseph Branston, Neil Godwin,
Philip Sowels, Jesse Wild, Dave Caudery

AdvErTisInG
loved one or treating yourself to some cosy new
winter accessories. 120
Call 0117 300 8206 We’ve compiled quick makes and

101
Senior Advertising Manager: Penny Stokes
Senior Sales Executive: Beckie Pring larger projects, grouping them so you
Sales Executive: Tiffany Jackson
can find the right make for you. If
MarKeTing & CirCuLatIoN you’re looking for GIFTS FOR ALL THE
Direct Marketing Manager: Kevin Slaughter
Head of Newstrade Marketing: Martin Hoskins FAMILY, turn to page 8. Or if you want
Newstrade Marketing Manager: Janine Smith
Subscriptions Director: Jacky Perales-Morris to deck your home with yarn, from
Subscriptions Project Lead: Julie Sewell
Junior Digital Designer: Adam Francombe

ProDuCtiOn
Production Director: Sarah Powell
page 79 we’ve got dozens of ideas for
DECORATIONS AND HOMEWARES.
And take a look at page 37 if you’re
8
Production Managers: Louisa Molter, Rose Griffiths
after a new WINTER WARDROBE.
LicEnSing
Director of International Licensing & Syndication:
Tim Hudson
International Partners Manager: Anna Brown
We’ve got hats, mitts, wraps and more!
Plus, if you’re new to crochet, there
34
are also STEP-BY-STEP GUIDES to the
PubLiShiNg basics as well as workshops to help you master
Publishing Directors: Kerry Lawrence,
Catherine Potter more advanced techniques.
Here’s to a very crochet Christmas!
DisTrIbuTion
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 I’ m
page o2n6
!
Crochet CONTENTS
C H R I S T M A S

72 24
Luxe Lace

87
92
PerfecT
PresentS

GorgeOus gIfts WinteR warDrobe

8 FESTIVE CROWN 37 SNOW STYLISH!

103 A bright crown for kids of all ages.

10 ELF ON A SHELF
Hook Santa’s little helpers!
13 RUBY SPARKLE
Fab gift for stylish gals!
18 DRUMMER BEAR
Smart amigurumi nutcracker bear.
22 LITTLE STRIPES
Super-snuggly baby blanket.
24 SANTA PAWS
Kit out the cat with a Santa hat!
26 SUGAR ‘N’ SPICE
Cute amigurumi gingerbread.
29 COOL YULE
A polar bear pal to hook today.
32 BABY CROCS
Unique bootees for little feet.
34 STARRY NIGHT
Hook a cosy, classy blanket.
Scandi-style hat and mitts.
41 IT’S A WRAP
Snuggle up with a stripey wrap.
43 WINTER SUN
Your choice of bright bobble hats.
46 THE BIG CHILL
An ultra-cosy chunky cardi.
51 LET IT SNOW
A Christmas jumper with style!
53 MAKE A WISH
Accessorise with glittery stars.
56 TOP TOPPERS
Keep warm with welly toppers.
57 JEWEL PURPOSE
Hook a delicate diamond shawl.
60 DOUBLE CREAM
A versatile wrap for every day.
63 RASPBERRY BERET
Get ahead with this chic hat!

4 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 10
66

99 34 111
NordiC
DininG
115

66 FRIEND OR FAUX
Get the party look with this stole.
69 FIGGY PUDDING
96 COSY CALENDAR
An Advent calendar
with a difference!
105
A hat that’s good enough to eat! 99 BRANCH OUT
72 CRANBERRY LACE A beautiful table runner.
Treat yourself to a luxury cardi.
76 RUBY SLIPPERS
101 JOLLY HOLLY
Quick-to-make holly leaf motif. goOd reaD
67
Super-sweet slipper socks. 103 SPRUCED UP 6 KAT’S JOURNAL
Hook tiny trees for your table. Designer Kat Goldin on
105 LUCKY STARS crocheting for Christmas.
DecorAtionS
79 SPELL IT OUT
Bunting to celebrate your home.
Deck the halls with a star garland.
108 LET’S PARTY
Pompom glass markers. Neat! how To… PatT e rn s
82 BRIGHT BAUBLES
Our bright cover star wreath!
84 SUPER STOCKING
109 CHRISTMAS DOLLS
Scandi friends for your Christmas
table or mantlepiece.
15 ZIPS WORKSHOP
Finish bags perfectly
89 EMBROIDERY
to Make!
Gather your gifts in Scandi style. 111 WINTER TIME WORKSHOP
87 TWINKLE, TWINKLE Crochet a cuckoo clock! Embellish your makes
A set of shimmering coasters. 115 FINE PINE 117 POPCORN WORKSHOP
92 PRESENT PERFECT Hook a mini-spruce or two! Master the art of popcorn stitches
Unique gift wrap ideas and a 120 SO SCANDI 125 THE GUIDE
decorative skirt for your tree. Nordic-inspired baubles. Step-by-step technique tips.

All our patterns use UK terms. If you usually crochet from

US patterns, turn to page 130 for a conversion table.

98
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 5
 KAT’ S J O U RN A L
...FROM THE STUDIO
Handmade giving can be tricky at “I HA VE A RA VE LRY
QU EU E AS LO NG
any time of year. Designer Kat Goldin AS MY A RM O F G
IFTS TO MA KE.”
helps you get sorted for Christmas.

he days are turning shorter and I may have told my eight-year-old son object though, it’s about the love,

T the weather is turning colder, so

inevitably my mind turns to the C
word. I feel slightly embarrassed
to bring it up because I’m not one
of those people who looks forward
to Christmas throughout the year. In
fact, I sort of dread it. Not being an
organised person by nature, the sheer
amount of thinking ahead required puts
recently that it was like a “dagger in my
heart” when he told me that my
proposal for his handmade winter hat
would “make him look like a dork”.
And then my father’s unenthusiastic
response to a pair of socks I made for
him even rendered me a wee bit tearful.
There is no question that making for
giving is a special kind of journey. You
thought and care that goes into each
step in the process, from picking out
the yarn to sewing in the final ends.
Experience has taught me to think
carefully about a couple of things when
planning my handmade gift giving.
Here are my top hooking-to-give tips.
Be organised. There is nothing worse
than deciding to make something at the
me in a bit of a panic-induced stasis, give up your most precious resource last moment and pulling an all-nighter
where I know I need to get my act – your time – to make something that it to get it done. It’s always super-stressful
together but simply can’t, and end up could well have been easier or cheaper and it never gives great results. Instead,
buying everything last minute online. to buy. It’s not just about the finished organise your gift-giving thoughts and
Historically this inertia has made me,
quite frankly, a terrible handmade gift
on.
giver. It’s probably not the best thing to
admit, having written a book about
“Think about the pers
giving crochet gifts, but, you know, the Do they love handmade,
good intentions have always been there.
I have a Ravelry queue as long as my arm one-of-a-kind things?”
solely made up of things I would like to
make and give to the people I love. I
have stockpiles of wool bought with the
sole purpose of making something
specific for my children, husband, best
Photograph of Kat Goldin by Xanthe Berkeley.

friend or mother. I just can never get my

act together to make more than a few of
the gift items that are on my list.

MAKING TIME
Even when I do have enough time
available for the making, in the past I
have found the act of handmade giving
a bit of a tricky one to navigate. There is
nothing worse than spending your time
and money making something for
someone and then getting a lukewarm
response. Being the melodramatic sort,

make sure you have enough time to get
all of your projects done.
IT’S GOOD TO GIVE
Think about the person. Do they love
handmade, vintage or one-of-a-kind
things? Do they wear a lot of knitwear,
scarves or accessories? Do they
comment on your own or other people’s
crocheted items? If so, then it’s a great
indication that they would love to
receive a handmade gift.
Unless you are confident that the
person knows how to wash 100% wool
SEASONAL MOOD BOARD
“Wool full of kinks (I can’t stand it), a
new design in the works, and ‘tis the
season for chopping wood and
making little Christmas stars.”
feature
“Fit your gifts
to your yarn stash.”
items, it’s best to choose yarns that are
pretty hard-wearing and ideally machine
washable for gift-giving. I speak from
experience – a friend of mine felted her
Christmas jumper two years running.
You can buy sweet sew-in labels that tell
the receiver how to care for their items.
Check out www.nakedlabelsuk.etsy.com
for some great examples.
Be realistic. While I would dearly love
to knit my mother a jumper for Christmas
and she would love to receive one, it is
simply not going to happen and the time
I could spend starting and not finishing a
garment would be better spent starting
and finishing a smaller accessory.
Set a budget. Christmas is expensive,
so, as with all Christmas gifts, set a
budget for your projects and your
overall spend and stick to it. If the
budget is tight, choose a less expensive
yarn or buy everything you need in a
sale. As much as possible, fitting your
gifts to your existing yarn stash is a
good way to make room in your budget.
Most importantly, start now! Don’t
shoot me for saying it, but Christmas
will be here before we know it!
feStive crowN
Hook a cheery gift for little ones.
By Cara Medus and Becky Skuse.

EASY PEASY DK 3.5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QPatons Fab! DK (100% acrylic,
100g/274m), 1 ball of Red 02323
(one crown uses approx 30g of
this yarn)
QDMC Lumina (60% viscose, 40%
metalized polyester sinflex,
20g/150m), 1 ball of Gold 3821
(one crown uses approx 5g of
this yarn)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
QElastic, 1cm wide, 10cm long
QTapestry needle
For yarn stockists, contact
Coats Crafts 01484 681881
www.coatscrafts.co.uk and
DMC 0116 275 4000
www.dmccreative.co.uk
TENSION
18 sts and 10 rows to meas
10x10cm (4x4in) over treble patt
using 3.5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS
Finished crown measures 54cm
circumference
To fit head circumference of
51-54cm (child aged 4-8 years)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
GIFTS
W
hether it’s for Nativity plays,
dressing up or simply to
signal the start of the festive
season, every child will need one of
these sparkling crowns this Christmas!
Using from a cheery red yarn (although
you can choose your child’s favourite
colour, of course), you’ll get three
crowns out of one ball, so it’s a value-
for-money treat that’s finished off with a
metallic yarn for a seasonal sparkle.
Made with treble stitches, this crown
has a simple construction, with points
added around the edge and then
trimmed with gold yarn. Stretchy elastic
is then sewn inside to ensure a perfect
fit for every child!
C CROWN BASE
With red yarn, ch98.
Row 1 Beg in 4th chain from hook, tr95,
ss to top of ch-3 at beg of row to join
into the round. [96 sts]
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr95, ss
to beg ch-3 to join. [96 sts]
Repeat Round 2 until crown base
measures 7cm high.
Do not fasten off.
Continue to work first point.
CROWN POINTS
Each crown point is worked over 12 sts,
making 8 points in total.
Row 1 Ch3, tr2tog, tr to last 3sts,
tr2tog, 1tr, turn. [10 sts]
Rows 2-4 Repeat Row 1 another 3
times. [4 sts]
Row 5 Ch2, skip first tr, begin a tr2tog
in next st but work second part of
tr2tog in 4th st (missing 3rd st).
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rejoin yarn to the next available tr and
work a point over the next 12 sts,
following the instructions above.
CROWN EDGING: LOWER
Join gold yarn at the lower edge.
Round 1 Ch1, work dc evenly around
edge, ss to first ch to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
CROWN EDGING: UPPER
Join gold yarn to the upper edge.
Round 1 Ch1, work dc evenly around
edge and at each point, work (dc, ch1,
dc, ch1, dc) into the point stitch.
Continue in this way all around and ss
to the first ch to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
To sew in the elastic, first decide which
part of the crown will be at the back of
the head (the round join point is a good
place).
Place elastic on the WS of this part of
the crown, 3.5cm up from the lower
edge, with the centre of the elastic at
the join point.
Pin the centre of the elastic in place.
Now work on each side at a time,
stretching the elastic from the centre
outwards and pinning in place.
Once you’re happy with the placement,
sew the elastic in place around the
outside edges to secure.
Once sewn in, the elastic should neatly
pull the crown in to a 51cm
circumference, but stretch out to 54cm.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 9
Elf oN a sHelf
No Christmas will be complete without
these cute helpers by Hannah Cross.

IMPROVE DK 3MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q King Cole Baby Alpaca DK
(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m),
1 ball of each:
Yarn A Cranberry (510)
Yarn B Fawn (501)
Yarn C Grey (502)
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Q Polyester toy stuffing
Q Small amount of wool roving in
cream and white for felting the
nose and beard
Q Craft glue (to attach beard if
you do not want to needle felt
it in place)
Q 100g beans to fill the body
For yarn stockists, contact
King Cole 01756 703670
www.kingcole.co.uk
TENSION
23 sts and 25 rows to measure
10x10cm (4x4in) over double
crochet worked in the round –
tension is not critical, but match
the stated tension to achieve a
similar finished size
MEASUREMENTS
Large Elf measures 12x45cm
(4¾x17¾in)
Small Elf measures 10x39cm
(4x15¼in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
GIFTS
T
he story of the ‘elf on a shelf’
may be relatively new, but the
idea of an elf in your home who’s
observing the family’s goings on and
reporting back to Father Christmas has
quickly established itself as a favourite
tradition. Now you can crochet your
own version of Santa’s little helpers
with Hannah Cross’s adorable
amigurumi versions. Resplendent in
striped stockings and with luxuriously
bushy white beards, these elves are
full of quirky character and are sure to
brought out every year to watch over
your festivities!
NOTES
The pattern is worked using the
amigurumi method. Work in a
continuous spiral without closing off the
round with a ss. It may help to use a stitch
marker in the first stitch of each round,
moving it up as you work.
C LARGE ELF The elves’ legs are stuffed with the tails left
over from your crocheting.
HAT
With Yarn A, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from
hook. [3 dc] [36 dc]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc] Round 28 *Dc in each of next 11 sts, 2dc
Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st; in next st; rep from * around. [39 dc]
rep from * around. [9 dc] Round 29 Dc in each st around.
Rounds 4-7 Dc in each st around. Round 30 *Dc in each of next 12 sts,
Round 8 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc 2dc in next st; rep from * around.
in next st; rep from * around. [12 dc] [42 dc]
Rounds 9-10 Dc in each st around. Round 31 Dc in each st around.
Round 11 *Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc Round 32 *Dc in each of next 13 sts,
in next st; rep from * around. [15 dc] 2dc in next st; rep from * around.
Rounds 12-13 Dc in each st around. [45 dc]
[15 dc] Rounds 33-40 Dc in each st around.
Round 14 *Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc [45 dc]
in next st; rep from * around. [18 dc] Fasten off.
Rounds 15-16 Dc in each st around.
Round 17 *Dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc BODY
in next st; rep from * around. [21 dc] With Yarn C, ch4, ss to first ch to form a
Rounds 18-19 Dc in each st around. ring.
Round 20 *Dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc Round 1 (RS) 6dc into ring. [6 dc]
in next st; rep from * around. [24 dc] Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 dc]
Round 21 Dc in each st around. Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st;
Round 22 *Dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc rep from * around. [18 dc]
in next st; rep from * around. [27 dc] Round 4 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
Round 23 Dc in each st around. in next st; rep from * around. [24 dc]
Round 24 *Dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc Round 5 *Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc
in next st; rep from * around. [30 dc] in next st; rep from * around. [30 dc]
Round 25 Dc in each st around. Round 6 *Dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc
Round 26 *Dc in each of next 9 sts, 2dc in next st; rep from * around. [36 dc]
in next st; rep from * around. [33 dc] Round 7 *Dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc
Round 27 *Dc in each of next 10 sts, in next st; rep from * around. [42 dc]
2dc in next st; rep from * around. Round 8 *Dc in each of next 6 sts, 2dc
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 11

in next st; rep from * around. [48 dc]
Round 9 *Dc in each of next 7 sts, 2dc
in next st; rep from * around. [54 dc]
Round 10 *Dc in each of next 8 sts, 2dc
in next st; rep from * around. [60 dc]
Round 11 *Dc in each of next 9 sts, 2dc
in next st; rep from * around. [66 dc]
Round 12 *Dc in each of next 10 sts,
2dc in next st; rep from * around.
[72 dc]
Continue working in the back loops
only.
Rounds 13-16 Dc in each st around.
Round 17 *Dc in each of next 10 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [66 dc]
Rounds 18-20 Dc in each st around.
Round 21 *Dc in each of next 9 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [60 dc]
Rounds 22-24 Dc in each st around.
Round 25 *Dc in each of next 8 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [54 dc]
Rounds 26-28 Dc in each st around.
Round 29 *Dc in each of next 7 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [48 dc]
Round 30 Dc in each st around.
Round 31 *Dc in each of next 6 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [42 dc]
Round 32 Dc in each st around.
Round 33 *Dc in each of next 5 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [36 dc]
Stuff with two thirds beans and one
third toy stuffing, then continue.
Round 34 Dc2tog around. [18 dc]
Round 35 Dc2tog around. [9 dc]
Fasten off, sew top together and
weave in ends.
LEGS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from
hook. [3 dc]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc]
Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [9 dc]
Round 4 *Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
in next st; rep from * around. [12 dc]
Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st around.
Now shape heel as follows:
Rounds 8-9 Htr in each of next 6 sts, dc
in each of next 6 sts. [12 sts]
Round 10 Tr in each of next 6 sts, dc in
each of next 6 sts.
Continue working leg as follows:
Rounds 11-12 Dc in each st around.
Rounds 13-15 Change to Yarn B, dc in
12 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
each st around.
Rounds 16-18 Change to Yarn C, dc in
each st around.
Repeat Rounds 13-18 five more times,
ending with Yarn C.
Fasten off.
Instead of stuffing the legs with toy
stuffing, just stuff with the tails left over
from changing colours.
Wool roving makes a wonderfully soft beard
Sew together the top of the Leg and for these cute characters.
sew to the base of the Body.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn B, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) 3dc in second ch from
hook. [3 dc]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [6 dc]
Round 3 *Dc in next st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [9 dc]
Rounds 4-5 Dc in each st around.
Change to Yarn C.
Rounds 6-12 Working in back loop
only: Dc in each st around. The amigurumi method creates a circular
base, so your elf will sit securely on the shelf.
Fasten off, sew together the top of the
Arm and sew in place on the Body.
SMALL ELF A for the Sleeves, but stop at Round 10.
HAT TO MAKE UP (BOTH ELVES)
Work as for Large Elf in Yarn C, but Using some unworked white wool roving,
omit Rounds 6, 7, 39 and 40. create the beard and then needle felt or
Fasten off and weave in ends. glue it onto the top of the body.
Sew the hat in place, over the top of the
BODY beard so it looks like it’s covered up
Work as for Large Elf Body in Yarn A up his eyes.
to Round 10. [60 sts] Using a small amount of cream wool
Then work the following rounds: roving, create a ball for the nose – go as
Rounds 11-14 Working in the back loop big as you like. Sew nose into place.
only: dc in each st around.
Rounds 15-23 Work Rounds 25-33 of
Large Elf Body. [36 sts after Round 23]
Round 24 *Dc in each of next 4 sts,
dc2tog; rep from * around. [30 sts]
Stuff with two thirds beans and one
third toy stuffing, then continue.
Round 25 Dc2tog around. [15 dc]
Fasten off, sew top together and
weave in ends.
LEGS (MAKE 2)
Work as for Large Elf Legs, using Yarn C
for the feet, and Yarns B and A for the
stripes, but only repeat Rounds 13-18
four more times.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
Work as for Large Elf Arms, using Yarn
 GIFTS

IMPROVE
YOUR SKILLS!
Turn to page 15 for
our workshop on
how to attach zips
and linings

ruBy spArkle
Glittery yarn and a bold scarlet lining make
Becky Skuse’s purse the perfect party piece.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 13

C PURSE SIDE (MAKE 2)
TAKE ON A DK 3.5MM
CHALLENGE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QMarriner Sparkle DK (97%
acrylic, 3% lurex, 100g/300m),
1 ball of Black (purse uses
approx 20g of this yarn)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
QInner lining fabric, approx
42x14cm (16½x5½in) (we used
a grey and white print)
QOuter lining fabric, approx
42x14cm (16½x5½in) (we used
a red cotton)
QZip, approx 18cm (7in) long
(excluding tape ends)
QPiece of paper
For yarn stockists, contact
Marriner 02920 837613
www.marrineryarns.com
TENSION
Not vital for this project, although
if your finished purse is smaller
or larger than finished
measurements, you may need
more yarn and more fabric
MEASUREMENTS
Finished purse measures approx
20x12cm (7¾x4¾in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
14 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
W
e’re loving the bold scallop
shapes and hint of sparkle in
this design (Gatsby vibes
anyone?), but really it’s the beautifully
finished zip and linings that makes it a
winner. Put your sewing skills to the test.
NOTES
You can use the same or different
fabrics for the inner and outer linings.
Ch35.
Row 1 (RS) Tr in fourth ch from hook
(skipped ch counts as st), and each ch
to end, turn. [33 tr]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
first 3 tr, (ch5, skip 3 tr, dc in each of
next 5 tr) 3 times, ch5, skip 3 tr, dc in
next 2 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn.
[Four ch-5 sps, three 5-dc groups]
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
first st, (11tr in next ch-5 sp, skip 2 dc,
dc in next dc, skip 2 dc) 3 times, 11tr in
next ch-5 sp, dc in last dc, turn.
[Four 11-tr shells]
Row 4 Ch6 (counts as dtr, ch2), skip 3
tr, (5dc, ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc, skip 3
tr) 3 times, 5dc, ch2, skip 3 tr, dtr in last
dc, turn. [Three ch-5 sps, two ch-2 sps,
four 5-dc groups]
Row 5 Ch3 (counts as tr), 5tr into first
ch-2 sp, (skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, skip 2
dc, 11tr in next ch-5 sp) 3 times, skip 2
dc, dc in next dc, skip 2 dc, 6tr in final
ch-2 sp, turn. [Three 11-tr shells, t
wo 6-tr half shells]
Row 6 Ch1 (does not count as stitch),
dc in first 3 tr, (ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc,
skip 3 tr, dc in each of next 5 tr) 3 times,
ch5, skip 3 tr, skip 1 dc, skip 3 tr, dc in
next 2 tr, dc in top of beg ch-3, turn.
[Four ch-5 sps, three 5-dc groups]
Rows 3-6 form pattern.
Repeat Rows 3-6 once more, then work
Row 3 one more time.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO MAKE UP
Block purse sides to same size.
Place purse sides wrong sides tog.
Using a matching black yarn or cotton
thread, seam tog down one side, along
the bottom and up the other side.
LINING TEMPLATE
Place your purse on a piece of paper
and draw around the outside. Remove
the purse and cut out the paper shape.
Choose a suitably fabulous print to line the
inside of your clutch bag. We love florals.
You will need to keep the curves of the
bottom corners, but not the individual
scallops so cut off each scallop to
straighten out the bottom.
Fold the piece in half so the sides meet
and trim off any excess so the piece
is symmetrical.
Unfold and insert the paper piece into
your purse to check the fit. It will
probably be too wide, so remove the
paper, fold in half again and trim the
sides slightly. Repeat until your paper
shape fits well inside the purse.
Once you’re happy, place your paper
shape onto your inner lining fabric and
draw around it twice. On both shapes,
draw another line 1cm away from the
first line all the way around (this is your
seam allowance). Cut out along the
outer line. Repeat this process with
your outer lining fabric.
SEW LINING
Sew together your lining pieces as
described in the workshop (page 17,
steps 1-6), to form an inner lining pouch
and an outer lining pouch.
Before attaching the zip, you need to
sew the outer lining into place. This will
be visible on the outside of the purse
so you need to keep all your seam
allowances on the inside of the purse
(these will be covered up by the inner
lining). Turn the outer lining right sides
out and keeping seam allowances on
the inside, sew to the inside of the
purse, as described in the workshop
(page 17, steps 7-10).
Now sew the zip in place as described
in the workshop (page 16, steps 1-4).
Finally, sew the inner lining in place as
described in the workshop (page 17,
steps 7-10).
 ziPs anD liNings
Workshop Grab a sewing needle and thread – we’ll show you how
to add zips and linings to your crochet creations.

When WouLd i Need to add Zips or LinIngs?

Want to create makes that are practical and pretty? We’ll show you how…

From purses and bags to

garments and cushions,
lining fabrics can add a
fantastic extra design
dimension to your makes,
while zips are a great
fastening option. Both are
surprisingly simple to
insert and we’ll show you
how to do it. With a bit of
practise, you’ll be able to
line your makes and then
you can use lacy stitch ADD A ZIP ADD A LINING
patterns on any project.
Once you’ve mastered the It’s pretty straightforward to add a zip to your For bags and purses with lacy crochet stitch
technique, use your new makes, especially if your crochet fabric is made up patterns, you’ll need to add a fabric lining. This will
skills to make our clutch of dense stitches, such as double crochet. Perfect help it to keep its shape and make sure there’s no
purse on page 13. for adding finesse to crochet bags and purses. chance of losing items through the gaps.

What Sort of zip do i Need?

Master these clever fastenings and reap the rewards.

01 02

Zips are genius inventions and compared with buttons or poppers,
they’re much more effective at keeping small items like coins safe
within a closed space. However, zips do take a little more effort to
sew in correctly. It is possible to crochet directly onto a zip, but here
we’re going to look at how to sew a zip into a finished purse.
First, you need to finish your purse neatly. To do this, make sure
that the pieces of your crochet purse or bag are blocked to size –
quite often with a purse, you will have two identical pieces that you
will need to seam together. However, there may be small differences
in the size and shape of your pieces, so it’s always best to block
individual pieces to the same size before seaming them together.
Blocking also gives you the chance to tug your pieces into shape,
tidy up any messy stitches or open up a lacy stitch pattern into its full
glory. Once blocked, seam your purse on three sides, leaving the
top open – you can use either a visible, decorative crochet seam or
an invisible crochet or sewn seam.
Now you’ll be ready to attach the zip. Make sure you have a
sewing needle and cotton thread that matches the yarn you’ve used.
Step 1 Start by getting a zip that fits the opening of your purse. If
the opening doesn’t correspond to a standard zip length, just pick a
slightly longer zip and tuck the zip’s closed end inside your purse.
Step 2 A closed zip is usually best – this is one with a little stopper
at the closed end so that the zipper can’t fall off. The open end
should also have a little stopper on each side to stop the zipper.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 15
how do i InsErt a zip?
Here’s a quick and easy way to sew in a zip.
You’ll need some dressmaker’s
pins and a pair of scissors handy.
Step 1 Open the zip and,
starting at the open end, pin it to
the inside of your purse, aligning
the opening stopper with the
edge of your purse. Make sure
the zip is face up and the teeth
lie above the edge of your purse
so the fabric doesn’t catch.
Step 2 Pin all the way across. 01 02
Carefully test that you can easily
move the zipper.
Step 3 Repeat the process on
the other side of the purse and
zip, ensuring the sides line up.
Step 4 Once you’re happy
with the fit, open the zip and
slowly sew each side of the zip to
each side of the purse, removing
pins as you go. Use a hand-
sewing needle, thread to match
the yarn and backstitches. Or
you could use a sewing machine, 03 04
but the stitches may be visible.

why do i Need to add a LinInG?

A nifty way to give any make a whole new functionality.

18cm

10cm

01 02

If your crochet fabric is made out of dense stitches like double
crochet then you might not need to add a lining. However, adding a
lining will really help your purse or bag to keep its shape and make
absolutely sure that you won’t lose any of its contents. If your crochet
fabric is made out of lacy stitches then it will definitely need to be
lined, otherwise you might find that items go missing.
Before attaching the lining, make sure you’ve blocked your pieces
to size, seamed them together and added your fastening, such as a
zip (see above). Lining a purse or bag isn’t as tricky as you might think
– there’s no fancy equipment required and you don’t even need to
own a sewing machine because you can easily attach the lining
fabric with a simple hand-sewing needle and thread.
Step 1 You’ll need to choose some lining fabric that suits your
design, thinking about the use of your purse – perhaps something
silky for an evening purse or a printed cotton fabric for an everyday
bag. Iron out any wrinkles in the fabric before you start.
Step 2 Lay your purse out flat and measure it. You will need to
allow at least 1cm (½in) as a seam allowance on all sides of the fabric,
so cut two pieces of your lining fabric that are 2cm (1in) larger than
your actual purse measurements – 20x12cm for our example, above.
If you’re working with a purse that’s a unique shape, like a circle,
you’ll find it easier to draw around your purse and work from a
template. Use your template to mark a shape onto your lining fabric
that measures 1cm (½in) larger than your purse all the way around.

16 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 workshop

how do i AttAch my LinInG?

Brush up on these simple sewing skills to give your makes a professional-looking finish.
Once you’ve cut your templates, you’ll be
ready to get sewing.
Step 1 Place your two pieces of lining
fabric right sides together. Using a fabric
pen, mark the 1cm seam allowance and pin
the two pieces together using straight pins.
Step 2 Carefully sew around three sides
at the pen marks, leaving the top open. If
you have a sewing machine, this will speed 01 02
up the process, but it’s a great chance to
practise your hand sewing, too.
Steps 3-4 To ensure the corners of the
lining will be well-defined inside the purse,
trim off the corners of the fabric, as shown.
Be careful not to cut into your stitches.
Step 5 To make sure the lining lies flat,
press the seam allowance back on one side
of your lining pouch, using an iron.
Step 6 Turn over and repeat.
Step 7 Take the lining and place it inside
03 04
your purse – it should fit snugly to the three
seamed edges while the raw edge will poke
out of the top. If you’re adding a zip to your
purse then you will achieve a neat result if
you’ve sewn the zip to the purse before
adding the lining – you’ll also be able to use
the lining to hide the raw edges of the zip
inside the purse. Measure the amount of
lining fabric that pokes out of the top of the
purse – you’ll want the lining to sit inside the
purse a little below the top edge so add a
couple of millimetres to your measurement. 05 06
If you’ve inserted a zip, measure the amount
of fabric from about 1cm (½in) below the
teeth so the fabric won’t get caught.
Step 8 Remove your lining once more and
fold over the top edges to the wrong side by
this amount, so the raw edge will be hidden
once sewn into the purse. Iron the edge to
give a nice, crisp finish and make the job of
sewing it into the purse a little easier.
Step 9 Pop the lining back into your purse
and wiggle it into position, making sure the
07 08
corners are in place and the edges lie flat.
Now pin each side of the top edge of the
lining to the top edge of the crochet purse.
Written by Lucy Croft and Becky Skuse

You have little choice here but to whip out a

needle and thread, especially if you want the
seam to be invisible from the outside of your
purse. Carefully sew around the top edge of
your lining with small stitches. For a really
professional finish, make sure you don’t
push the needle through to the outside of
the purse or your stitches will be on show.
Step 10 Make sure the zip moves freely, 09 10
then fasten off securely and neatly.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 17
 GIFTS

DrummEr beaR
Brighten up the holiday season with this
dapper nutcracker bear by Ilaria Caliri.

S
triking the perfect balance between
sweet and stately, our toy soldier is a
great make for the festive season.
Ilaria Caliri has captured in crochet a long
tradition of nut-cracking at Christmas,
using carved wooden fairytale figures.
Our bear has just as much military charm
and he looks very handsome in his highly
decorated uniform – not only does he have
epaulettes, but his jacket also has gold
frog fastenings and his hat has gold
braiding. He makes a wonderful gift and
will bring delight for years to come, so
make him now – and that’s an order!

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 19

C HEAD
IMPROVE 4PLY 2.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QDMC Natura Just Cotton
(50g/155m), 1 ball of each:
Yarn A Canelle (37)
Yarn B Passion (23)
Yarn C Star Light (27)
Yarn D Noir (11)
Yarn E Tournesol (16)
Yarn F Ivory (02)
QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
QSafety eyes or black beads
(approx 4mm diameter)
Q2 skewers
QPipe cleaners (optional)
QToy stuffing
For yarn stockists, contact
DMC Creative 0116 275 4000
www.dmccreative.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
25cm (10in) tall
NOTES
The pattern is worked using the
amigurumi method. Work in a
continuous spiral without closing
off the round with a ss. It may
help to use a stitch marker in the
first stitch of each round, moving
it up as you work.
Legs and body are worked as one
piece starting from the feet.
Other pieces are sewn to body.
Hat and Drum are not sewn on.
If desired, cut shapes from plastic
to strengthen the top of the hat,
drum sides and foot soles.
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
20 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
Worked from nose to back of head.
With Yarn A, ch4.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from
hook and next ch, 3dc in the last ch,
rotate to work in the other side of the
foundation ch, 1dc in next ch, 2dc in
the last ch. [8 sts]
Round 2 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
4 times. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [16 sts]
Round 4 (1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [20 sts]
Round 5 (1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [24 sts]
Rounds 6-7 Dc in each dc around.
Round 8 2dc in next st, 1dc in next st,
(2dc in next st) 4 times, 1dc in next st,
2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 16
sts. [30 sts]
Round 9 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
6 times, 1dc in each of next 18 sts.
[36 sts]
Round 10 (1dc in each of next 5 sts,
2dc in next st) 6 times. [42 sts]
Rounds 11-18 Dc in each dc around.
Round 19 (1dc in each of next 5 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [36 sts]
Round 20 (1dc in each of next 4 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 21 (1dc in each of next 3 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts]
Secure the eyes, between Rounds 7
and 8, approx 9 sts apart.
If you’re using black beads, sew them
on once the Head is finished.
Stuff the Head with toy stuffing and
continue stuffing as you go.
Round 22 (1dc in each of next 2 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 23 (1dc in next st, dc2tog) 6
times. [12 sts]
Round 24 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Sew on black beads for eyes, if using.
Stitch the nose and mouth using Yarn D
and long, straight stitches.
EARS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, ch3.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from
hook, 3dc in next ch, rotate to work in
the other side of the foundation ch, 2dc
in the last ch. [6 sts]
Round 2 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next 2
sts) twice. [8 sts]
Rounds 3-4 Dc in each dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Use the long tails to sew the Ears onto
the Head, between Rounds 15 and 16,
approx 10 sts apart. Weave in ends.
BOTTOM OF JACKET
With Yarn B, ch36.
Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in second ch from hook
and in each ch to end, turn. [36 sts]
Rows 2-6 Ch1, 36dc, turn. Fasten off.
FIRST LEG
With Yarn C, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Rounds 3-20 Dc in each dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
SECOND LEG AND BODY
Work as for First Leg, do not fasten off.
Ch2. Put First Leg next to Second Leg
and work the next round starting on
First Leg.
Round 21 1dc in each of next 10 sts,
skip the last 2 sts of the First Leg, tr in
each of next 2 ch, skip the first 2 sts of
the Second Leg, 1dc in each of next 10
sts, dc in each remaining loop of the
next 2 ch. You may need to use the tail
from the First Leg to sew together any
gaps in the stitching. [24 sts]
Round 22 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 23 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts]
Rounds 24-30 Dc in each dc around.
[36 sts] Fasten off Yarn C.
Stuff the legs and continue stuffing as
you go (insert a pipe cleaner if you
want to be able to bend the legs).
Place the Bottom of Jacket piece
around the waist – with the open part
at the front – and fix in place with pins.
Join Yarn D in the middle of the back.
Round 31 Dc in each dc around,
working each st through one st of
Round 30 and one st of the Bottom of
Jacket piece to join. [36 sts]
Round 32 Dc in each dc around.
Change to Yarn B.
Rounds 33-39 Dc in each dc around.
[36 sts]
Round 40 (1dc in each of next 4 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [30 sts]

Round 41 (1dc in each of next 3 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 42 (1dc in each of next 2 sts,
dc2tog) 6 times. [18 sts]
Round 43 (1dc in next st, dc2tog) 6
times. [12 sts]
Round 44 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the
tail to sew the Head to the Body.
JACKET FASTENERS (MAKE 3)
With Yarn E, leave a long tail of yarn
and ch6. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Fix each piece to the chest with pins.
Use the long tails to embroider a big
French knot on each side of each piece,
to fix each chain piece to the chest.
BOOTS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn D, ch4.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from
hook and next ch, 3dc in the next ch,
rotate to work in the other side of the
foundation ch, 1dc in next ch, 2dc in
the last ch. [8 sts]
Round 2 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
4 times. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [16 sts]
Round 4 Working in back loop only:
Ch1, 1dc in each dc around.
Rounds 5-6 1dc in each dc around.
Round 7 1dc in each of next 6 sts,
(dc2tog) twice, 1dc in each of next 6
sts. [14 sts]
Rounds 8-15 1dc in each dc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Insert Leg inside Boot and sew in place
using long tail.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 5dc into loop. [5 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts]
Rounds 3-5 1dc in each dc around.
Change to Yarn D.
Round 6 1dc in each dc around. [10 sts]
Change to Yarn B.
Rounds 7-21 1dc in each dc around.
Stuff with toy stuffing (insert a pipe
cleaner if you want to bend the arms).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew the
Arms to the body using the long tails.
EPAULETTES (MAKE 2)
With Yarn E, ch5.
Row 1 1htr in third ch from hook
(skipped ch do not count as a st), htr in
next ch, 4htr in the next ch, rotate to
GIFTS
work in the other side of the foundation
ch, 1htr in each of next 2 ch, turn. [8 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in each of next 3 sts,
(2dc in next st) twice, 1dc in each of
next 3 sts, turn. [10 sts]
Row 3 Working in back loop only: Ch1,
1dc in each st. [10 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Cut 10 pieces of yarn, each approx 6cm
(2¼in) long, fold each piece in half and
pull through each st of the last row
using a crochet hook, to make a tassel.
Repeat for the other Epaulette.
Sew on the Epaulettes at the shoulders.
HAT
With Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st)
6 times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 6 Working in back loop only:
1dc in each st around. [30 sts]
Rounds 7-16 1dc in each dc around.
Change to Yarn D.
Round 17 1dc in each dc around.
Cont with the visor working in rows.
Row 1 (RS) Working in front loop only:
Ss in first st, dc in next st, htr in next st,
tr in each of next 4 sts, htr in next st, dc
in next st, ss in last st, turn. [8 sts]
Row 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in
next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in
next st, dc in each of next 2 sts. [10 sts]
Fasten off.
HAT BASE
With Yarn D, work Rounds 1-5 of Hat.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff the Hat and sew the Base in place.
HAT STRING
With Yarn D, ch33.
Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook
and in each ch to end. [32 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the
tail to sew each end of the Hat String to
the Hat, 3 sts from each side of visor.
HAT DECORATION
With Yarn E, ch16. Fasten off. Add a
tassel at each end, approx 2cm long.
Sew each end of Hat Decoration to
front of Hat, using photos as a guide.
Take your time over the details on the drum
– they’ll make your finished bear look fab!
DRUM
With Yarn F, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st)
6 times. [18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 2 sts) 6 times. [24 sts]
Round 5 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 3 sts) 6 times. [30 sts]
Round 6 (2dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 4 sts) 6 times. [36 sts]
Change to Yarn C.
Round 7 Working in back loop only:
1dc in each st around.
Rounds 8-13 1dc in each dc around.
Fasten off.
DRUM BASE
With Yarn F, work Rounds 1-6 of Drum.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the
Drum and sew the Base in place.
DRUM STRING
With Yarn F, ch55.
Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook
and in each ch to end. [54 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Use the tail to sew the Drum String to
the sides of the Drum, at an angle.
With Yarn E, embroider the drum with
long stitches, using the photo above as
a guide. With Yarn E, add 2 French
knots to each side of the Drum String,
where they meet the Drum.
TO MAKE UP
Cut two lengths of skewer measuring
3.5cm (1½in) each to form drumsticks.
Insert each one into a stitch at the
centre of the bear’s hand.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 21
liTtle StripeS
Treat a new arrival to Emma Potter’s
sweet blanket for their first Christmas.

EASY PEASY DK 4MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QSublime Baby Cashmere
Merino Silk DK (75% wool, 20%
silk, 5% cashmere, 50g/116m),
5 balls of Yarn A Vanilla (003),
1 ball of each:
Yarn B Buttercream (437)
Yarn C Little Duck Egg (436)
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Sublime 01924 369666
www.sublimeyarns.com
MEASUREMENTS
60x45cm (23½x17¾in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR IN ROWS
1 Start working the last stitch
of the last row of the old
colour, but stop before you
work the final yrh of the
stitch. Cut off the old yarn,
leaving a tail about 7cm long.
GIFTS
C
rochet designer Emma Potter
describes this lovely creation of
hers as “An heirloom newborn
baby blanket, made using a stretchy,
staggered shell stitch and super-soft
luxury yarn for a happy, snuggly baby.”
What more could you want in a little
one’s blanket? The simple stitch pattern
repeat makes it ideal for beginners, and
it’s so easy to change the colours if you’d
like to try something different.
C BLANKET
With Yarn A, ch98.
Row 1 (RS) (Dc, ch2, 4tr) in the second When changing colour, work the final part of
ch from the hook, *skip next 3 ch, (dc, the last double crochet in the new colour.
ch2, 4tr) in the next ch; repeat from *
across to the last 4 ch, skip next 3 ch,
dc in the last ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch3, 2tr in st at the base of ch-3,
*skip the next 4 tr, (dc, ch2, 4tr) in the
next ch-2 sp, skip 1 dc; repeat from *
across to the last 4 tr, skip 4 tr, dc in
ch-2 sp, turn.
Repeat Row 2, changing colour as
follows:
Row 3 Use Yarn A.
Rows 4-5 Use Yarn B.
Rows 6-25 Use Yarn A.
Rows 26-29 Use Yarn B.
Rows 30-31 Use Yarn A.
Rows 32-35 Use Yarn C.
Rows 36-37 Use Yarn A.
Rows 38-41 Use Yarn B.
Rows 42-67 Use Yarn A.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
2 Now loop your new yarn 3 Pull the new yarn loop 4 Now you can work the
colour around the hook, through the remaining two turning chain of the new row
leaving a long tail of yarn loops to finish off the stitch. in the new colour, for
(about 7cm long). Pull the old and new yarn example, ch3. Then work the
ends to tighten the loop on stitches of the new row in
the hook. the new yarn colour.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 23
Santa paws
Hook Sara Thomas’s pompom
hat for a cool cat this Christmas.
 GIFTS

M
ake sure your mog looks cool SECOND EAR HOLE
this yule with a hat St Nick Row 23 Ch1, 1dc, ch11, skip 11 dc, 1dc
would certainly approve of! in last st, turn.
EASY-PEASY ARAN 4MM Any aran-weight yarn in red or white will Row 24 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
do the trick here, and you’ll have a [13 dc]
Christmassy cat in no time! Row 25 Ch1, dc in first st, skip next st,
dc in each st to last 2 sts, skip next st,
YOU WILL NEED C CAT HAT dc in last st, turn. [11 dc]
QAran yarn BASE Row 26 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Yarn A Red 27m With Yarn A, ch2, leaving a 64cm Rows 27-34 Repeat Rows 25 and 26. [3
Yarn B White 9m (25in) tail. dc]
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook Row 1 (RS) 3dc in 2nd ch, turn. Row 35 Ch1, skip 2 sts, dc in last st.
QPolyester fibre filling Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st Work 25ch, fasten off and pull through
Q2.5cm pompom maker throughout), 3dc, turn. loop tightly. Trim tail. Work 25ch using
(optional) Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 1dc, 2dc in 64cm (25in) tail at beg of base.
QTapestry needle last st, turn. [5 dc]
Row 4 Ch1, 5dc, turn. HAT TOP
MEASUREMENTS Row 5 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in each st Work in the round in a spiral without
Ear opening: 5cm (2in) to last st, 2dc in last st, turn. [7 dc] closing each round with a ss. If
Width of hat between ears: Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. necessary, place a marker to show start
6cm (2½in) Rows 7-10 Repeat Rows 5 and 6. [11 of round.
dc] Row 11 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 9dc, 2dc With Yarn A, ch2.
ABBREVIATIONS in last st, turn. [13 dc] Round 1 4dc in 2nd ch.
For a full list, see page 130. Round 2 1dc in each st around. [4 dc]
FIRST EAR HOLE Round 3 2dc in each st around. [8 dc]
This purrfect pompom hat Row 12 Ch1, 1dc, ch11, skip 11 dc, 1dc Rounds 4-5 1dc in each st around.
is from Cats In Hats by Sara in last st, turn. Round 6 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 4 times.
Thomas (Hamlyn, RRP £9.99). [12 dc]
To buy a copy visit www. MIDDLE SECTION Rounds 7-9 1dc in each st around.
octopusbooks.co.uk or call Rows 13-22 Ch1, dc in each st to end, Round 10 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
020 3122 6400. turn. [18 dc]
Rounds 11-13 1dc in each st around.
Round 14 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 9 times.
[27 dc]
BASE Rounds 15-17 1dc in each st around.
HAT
Round 18 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 9 times.
[36 dc]
Round 19 (8dc, 2dc in next st) 4 times.
[40 dc]
Rounds 20-21 1dc in each st around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail, and pull
through loop tightly.

TO MAKE UP
With Yarn B, make a 2.5cm (1in)
pompom and two 1cm (¼in) tassels.
Attach pompom securely to top of Hat.
Attach one tassel on end of each tie.
Lightly stuff Hat Top with fibre filling,
being careful to evenly distribute
filling. Stitch Hat Top onto centre of
Base using the long tail.
ch
dc

Read the Base chart from bottom to top. All rounds on the
Hat chart are read in an anti-clockwise direction.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 25
Sugar ‘n’ spicE
This festive gingerbread doll, by Sara Mackin
for DMC, would make a lovely gift!
 GIFTS

A
s well as eating gingerbread this
Christmas, why not craft some
out of yarn, too? This cute doll
IMPROVE 4PLY 2.5MM will make a lovely gift for a young one (or
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
someone young at heart). Just delicious!

YOU WILL NEED
QDMC Petra size 3 (100% cotton,
100g/280m), 1 ball of each:
Yarn A Brown (5434)
Yarn B Cream (53901)
Yarn C Dark Brown (5938)
QDMC Pearl Cotton thread,
1 skein of Yarn D Red (666)
QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
QStitch markers
QToy stuffing
For yarn stockists, contact
DMC 0116 275 4000
www.dmccreative.co.uk
TENSION
Tension is not critical as long as
you are prepared to accept a
slight difference in size in the
finished project
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 24cm (9½in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
This Christmassy amigurumi
pattern is from DMC. To find
more crochet patterns and
see the full range of DMC
yarn (and to find a stockist)
visit www.dmccreative.co.uk
or call 0116 275 4000.
NOTE
The pattern is worked in the amigurumi
method. Work in a continuous spiral
without closing off the round with a ss.
It may help to use a stitch marker in the
first stitch of each round, moving it up
as you work.
C HEAD
With Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next st;
rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts]
Round 4 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts]
Round 5 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 3
sts; rep from * 5 times more.
[30 sts]
Round 6 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts]
Round 7 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 5
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts]
Round 8 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 6
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts]
Round 9 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 7
sts; rep from * 5 times more.
[54 sts]
Round 10 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 8
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts]
Round 11 1dc in each st around.
[60 sts]
Round 12 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 9
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts]
Round 13 1dc in each st around.
[66 sts]
Round 14 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 10
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [72 sts]
Rounds 15-19 1dc in each st around.
[72 sts]
Round 20 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 10 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts]
Round 21 1dc in each st around.
[66 sts]
Round 22 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 9 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts]
Round 23 1dc in each st around.
[60 sts]
Round 24 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [54 sts]
Round 25 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 7 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts]
Round 26 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 6 sts;
The eyes and buttons are made with a mini
version of an amigurumi spiral.
rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts]
Round 27 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 5 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts]
Round 28 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 4 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [30 sts]
Round 29 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 3 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts]
Round 30 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 2 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts]
Round 31 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next st; rep
from * 5 times more. [12 sts]
Stuff irmly before inal round.
Round 32 Dc2tog around [6 sts], ss to
next st.
Fasten off.
Using a yarn needle, pass the yarn
through last 6 sts and pull tight before
neatly sewing in end of yarn.
BODY AND LEGS
With Yarn A, make a magic loop,
leaving long tail.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next st;
rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts]
Round 4 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 2
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts]
Round 5 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 3
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [30 sts]
Round 6 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 4
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [36 sts]
Round 7 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 5
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [42 sts]
Rounds 8-9 1dc in each st around.
[42 sts]
Round 10 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 6
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [48 sts]
Rounds 11-14 1dc in each st around.
[48 sts]
Round 15 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 7
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [54 sts]
Rounds 16-19 1dc in each st around.
[54 sts]
Round 20 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 8

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 27

This little fellow is a great introduction to
amigurumi if you’re new to the method.
sts. Rep from * 5 times more. [60 sts]
Rounds 21-26 1dc in each st around.
[60 sts]
Round 27 *2dc in first st, 1dc in next 9
sts; rep from * 5 times more. [66 sts]
Rounds 28-32 1dc in each st around.
[66 sts]
Round 33 1dc in each st except last st.
On last st 1dc through this st and 33rd st
to split body shape in 2. These 2 shapes
will be continued to make the legs.
*Round 34 1dc in 33 sts up to the join –
do not work the other 33 for now.
[33 sts]
Rounds 35-36 1dc in each st around.
[33 sts]
Round 37 *Dc2tog, 1dc in 9 sts; rep
from * twice more. [30 sts]
Round 38 1dc in each st around. [30 sts]
Change to Yarn B.
Round 39 1dc in each st around. [30 sts]
Round 40 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 8 sts;
rep from * twice more. [27 sts]
Round 41 1dc in each st around. [27 sts]
Change to Yarn C.
Round 42-46 1dc in each st around.
[27 sts]
Round 47 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next 7 sts;
rep from * twice more. [24 sts]
Round 48 Work in bl, *dc2tog, 1dc in
next 2 sts; rep from * 5 times more.
[18 sts]
Round 49 *Dc2tog, dc in next st; rep
from * 5 times more. [12 sts]
Round 50 Dc2tog to end. [6 sts]
Fasten off.
Using a yarn needle, pass the yarn
through last 6 sts and pull tight before
sewing in end of yarn.
For second leg, join Yarn A at joining
st between 2 legs. Follow pattern from
Round 34 (marked with a *). Stuff the
28 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
body and irst leg around Round 38, then
stuff the second leg before inal row.
Note: Don’t worry if you ind you are
missing, or extra, by 1st on this leg;
follow the pattern instructions plus or
minus 1dc. The slightly thinner/thicker
leg won’t be noticeable at the end.
ARMS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn C, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 *2dc in 1st st, 1dc in next st;
rep from * 5 times more. [18 sts]
Round 4 *2dc in 1st st, dc in next 2 sts;
rep from * 5 times more. [24 sts]
Rounds 5-7 1dc in each st around.
[24 sts]
Change to Yarn B.
Rounds 8-9 1dc in each st around.
[24 sts]
Change to Yarn A.
Round 10 *Dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts; rep
from * 5 times more. [18 sts]
Rounds 11-15 1dc in each st around.
[18 sts]
Round 16 *Dc2tog, 1dc in next st; rep
from * 5 times more. [12 sts]
Rounds 17-26 1dc in each st around.
[12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving long tail.
EYES (MAKE 2)
With Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 *2dc in 1 st, dc in next st;
rep from * 5 times more [18 sts], ss to
next st.
Fasten off.
Pull centre thread tight and secure
neatly. Leave other end to stitch Eyes to
Head later.
CENTRE OF EYES
With Yarn C, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around [12 sts],
ss to irst dc.
Fasten off.
Thread spare yarn at centre through 6
sts and pull tight before sewing in end.
Use other end to stitch centre onto
‘whites’ of eyes.
BUTTONS (MAKE 3)
With Yarn D, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 6dc in loop. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 1dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 4 Dc2tog around [6 sts], ss to
next st.
Fasten off.
COLLAR
Work this piece in rows.
With Yarn B, ch30.
Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook,
cont in dc to end, turn. [29 sts]
Row 2 1dc in irst st, *ch5, skip a st, ss in
next st; rep from * to end.
Fasten off, leaving long tail, and use
ends of yarn to stitch collar to neck.
TO MAKE UP
FACIAL FEATURES
With Yarn C.
Row 1 1 row of surface crochet around
Head (follow central row around
circumference), leave gap at base of
head where Head and Body are joined.
Row 2 When you reach other end, turn
and 1dc back in 1st row of Yarn C sts.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
Alternatively, make a long enough ch
to reach around circumference of Head,
turn and work 1dc back along chain and
stitch onto head.
With Yarn D, follow same method to
create lips.
Sew centre of Eyes onto whites of Eyes.
Sew Eyes onto face using excess thread
left on ‘whites’.
HEAD AND BODY
With Yarn A, sew Head to top of Body.
Lightly stuff hands and flatten tops of
Arms before stitching to either side
of body.
Sew Collar between Head and Body.
Flatten Buttons before sewing them
evenly spaced onto Body.
Cool Yule
Liz Ward’s Arctic critter will add the
cuddle factor to your Christmas!

IMPROVE DK 3.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QJames C Brett Cotton On
(50% acrylic, 50% cotton,
50g/145m), 1 ball of each:
Yarn A White (01)
Yarn B Pale Blue (011)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
QStitch markers
Q9mm black safety toy eyes
QToy stuffing
QTapestry needle and sewing
needle
QBlack embroidery thread
QWhite iridescent sequins
For yarn stockists, contact
James C Brett
www.jamescbrett.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 20x15cm (8x6in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
30 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
GIFTS
T
his sweet polar bear is a great
seasonal project. His cosy scarf is
keeping him warm and the
cascade of sparkles and stars on his side
means he’s quite a dapper little chap!
This amigurumi figure is worked from
the nose to the tail in mainly one piece,
making it ideal if you aren’t keen on
sewing up and like your toys to take
shape as you go. We’ve chosen ice blue
for his accessories, but you can use any
colour you like for this perfect wintry gift.
Take your time to embroider the facial
NOTES features and give your bear a happy grin!
The head and body is worked together
in one piece. Stuff the head and body
as you go along. Work in a continuous
spiral without closing off the round with
a ss. It may help to use a stitch marker
in the first stitch of each round, moving
it up as you work.
C HEAD AND BODY
With Yarn A make a magic loop, 6dc
into loop. [6 sts]
Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [9 sts]
Round 2 *Dc in irst 2 sts, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [12 sts]
Round 3 *Dc in irst 3 sts, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [15 sts]
Round 4 *Dc in irst 4 sts, 2dc in next st; Sequins and embroidered stars add a hint
rep from * around. [18 sts] of Christmas sparkle to this cuddly chap.
Round 5 *Dc in irst 5 sts, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [21 sts]
Round 6 *Dc in irst 6 sts, 2dc in next Round 19 *Dc in irst 9 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [24 sts] Mark this st; rep from * around. [33 sts]
round with a stitch marker. Round 20 Dc in each st to the end. [33 sts]
Round 7 *Dc in irst 5 sts, 2dc in next st; Put your working loop on a stitch holder
rep from * around. [28 sts] and attach the toy eyes at the top of the
Round 8 *Dc in irst 6 sts, 2dc in next st; Head, 9 sts apart on Round 6.
rep from * around. [32 sts] Stuff the Head with toy stufing.
Round 9 *Dc in irst 7 sts, 2dc in next st; Put your working loop back on your
rep from * around. [36 sts] hook and cont as folls:
Round 10 *Dc in irst 8 sts, 2dc in next Round 21 *Dc in irst 10 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [40 sts] st; rep from * around. [36 sts]
Rounds 11-13 Dc in each st to the end. Round 22 Dc in each st to the end.
[40 sts] [36 sts]
Round 14 *Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts; rep Round 23 *Dc in irst 11 sts, 2dc in next
from * around. [35 sts] st; rep from * around. [39 sts]
Round 15 *Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts; rep Round 24 Dc in each st to the end.
from * around. [30 sts] [39 sts]
The next 2 rounds create the bend in Round 25 *Dc in irst 12 sts, 2dc in next
the neck. st; rep from * around. [42 sts]
Rounds 16-17 Htr in next 6 sts, dc in Round 26 Dc in each st to the end.
next 10 sts, ss in next 4 sts, dc in the last [42 sts]
10 sts. [30 sts] Round 27 *Dc in irst 13 sts, 2dc in next
Round 18 Dc in each st to the end. st; rep from * around. [45 sts]
[30 sts] Round 28 Dc in each st to the end.

[45 sts]
Round 29 *Dc in irst 14 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [48 sts]
Round 30 Dc in each st to the end.
[48 sts]
Round 31 *Dc in irst 15 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [51 sts]
Round 32 Dc in each st to the end.
[51 sts]
Round 33 *Dc in irst 16 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [54 sts]
Round 34 Dc in each st to the end.
[54 sts]
Round 35 *Dc in irst 17 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [57 sts]
Round 36 *Dc in irst 18 sts, 2dc in next
st; rep from * around. [60 sts]
Rounds 37-39 Dc in each st to the end.
[60 sts]
Round 40 *Dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts;
rep from * around. [57 sts]
Round 41 *Dc2tog, dc in next 17 sts;
rep from * around. [54 sts]
Round 42 *Dc2tog, dc in next 7 sts; rep
from * around. [48 sts]
Round 43 *Dc2tog, dc in next 6 sts; rep
from * around. [42 sts]
Round 44 *Dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts; rep
from * around. [36 sts]
Round 45 *Dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts; rep
from * around. [30 sts]
Round 46 *Dc2tog, dc in next 3 sts; rep
from * around. [24 sts]
Round 47 *Dc2tog, dc in next 2 sts; rep
from * around. [18 sts]
Round 48 *Dc2tog, dc in next st; rep
from * around. [12 sts]
Round 49 (Dc2tog) repeat to end. [6 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff the Body irmly with toy stufing.
Thread the cut yarn onto a tapestry
needle and weave through the last 6
sts. Pull the yarn to close the hole at
the base of the Body, weave in
loose ends.
LEGS (MAKE 4)
ALL LEGS
With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 6dc
into loop. [6 sts]
Round 1 2dc into each st to the end.
[12 sts]
Round 2 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [18 sts]
Round 3 Working in back loops, dc
in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc in next 4 sts,
dc2tog, dc in last 5 sts. [16 sts]
Round 4 Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in
next 4 sts, dc2tog, dc in last 4 sts.
GIFTS
[14 sts]
Rounds 5-7 Dc in each st to the end.
[14 sts]
Round 8 Dc2tog, dc in each st to the
end. [13 sts]
Rounds 9-10 Dc in each st to the end.
[13 sts]
Round 11 Dc2tog, dc in each st to the
end. [12 sts]
Rounds 12-14 Dc in each st to the end.
[12 sts]
LEFT LEGS ONLY
Rounds 15-16 Dc in irst st, tr in next 4
sts, dc in next st, ss in next 6 sts. [12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Take care not to overstuff your bear so that
the filling doesn’t show through the stitches.
RIGHT LEGS ONLY
Round 15-16 Ss in irst 6 sts, dc in next
st, tr in next 4 sts, dc in last st. [12 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff Legs irmly with toy stufing.
Using the photo as a guide, sew Legs
to Body. Weave in loose ends.
EARS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 6dc
into loop. [6 sts]
Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [9 sts]
Round 2 Dc in each st to the end. [9 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Using the photo as a guide, sew Ears to Wrap a scarf around the bear’s neck and
Body. Weave in loose ends. he’s ready to brave the snow and ice!
TAIL
With Yarn A, make a magic loop, 4dc ends of the scarf to form tassels and cut
into loop. [4 sts] to length.
Round 1 *Dc in irst st, 2dc in next st;
rep from * around. [6 sts] TO FINISH
Round 2 *Dc in irst 2 sts, 2dc in next st; With black embroidery thread, stitch
rep from * around. [8 sts] facial features. Using the photo as a
Rounds 3-5 Dc in each st to the end. guide work a V for the nose, then ill it
[8 sts] in with long stitches. Add a small stitch
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. down from the centre of the nose and
Using the photo as a guide, sew Tail to 2 line stitches either side to form the
Body. Weave in loose ends. mouth.
With Yarn B, embroider small star
SCARF shapes on the rear flank of the polar
Work in rows. bear’s side. Sew on sequins in between
With Yarn B, ch4. and around the stars.
Row 1 Starting in 2nd ch from hook, dc Tie the scarf round the polar bear’s neck.
in each st, turn. [3 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, dc in each st, turn.
Repeat the last row until the Scarf is
35cm long.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Knot short lengths of Yarn B onto the
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 31
 Baby CrocS
fab crocodile stitch bootees.
Keep little ones snug in Gwen Steege’s

Photography by © Geneve Hoffman Photography. Used with permission of Storey Publishing.


TAKE ON A DK 3.5MM
CHALLENGE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QDebbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino
(55% merino wool, 33%
microfibre, 12% cashmere,
50g/125m), 2 balls of Coral (086)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Designer Yarns 01535 664222
www.designeryarns.uk.com
TENSION
20 sts (either dc or htr) measure
10cm (4in), Rounds 1-4 (the sole of
the Bootee) measure 4.5cm (1¾in)
by 8cm (3¼in)
MEASUREMENTS
9cm (3½in) foot length, 9cm
(3½in) tall
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
This project is from the
book Crochet One-Skein
Wonders For Babies (Storey
Publishing, RRP £12.99). Your
Crochet Christmas readers
can buy a copy of the book for just £11.99
(with free P&P in the UK). To order, call
EFC Bookshop on 01872 562327 or visit
www.efcbookshop.com.
GIFTS
B
ootees make a great gift for little
ones at any time of year – babies
always find a way to wriggle out of
socks, so you can never have too many
pairs! These eye-catching bootees have
a fantastic crocodile stitch cuff. It’s quite
a tricky technique but the results are
worth it, plus the edging means it’s less
likely that the bootees will fall off,
keeping toes warmer for longer!
C BOOTEES (MAKE 2)
Ch10.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook,
dc in next 7 ch, 5dc in last ch (toe);
working on opposite of foundation ch,
dc in next 7 ch, 2dc in last ch (heel), join
with ss to first dc. [22 dc]
Round 2 Ch2 (counts as htr here and
throughout), htr in same st, htr in next 7
dc, 2htr in each of next 5dc, htr in next
7 dc, 2htr in each of last 2 sts, join with
ss to top of beg ch-2. [30 htr]
Round 3 Ch2, htr in same st, htr in next
11 sts, 2htr in each of next 5 sts, htr in
next 11 sts, 2htr in each of last 2 sts,
join with ss to top of beg ch-2. [38 htr]
Round 4 Ch2, htr in next 14 htr, 2htr in
each of next 5 htr, htr in next 16 htr, 2htr
in next 2 htr, join with ss to top of beg
ch-2. [45 htr]
Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc bl in same st and each
st around, join with ss to first dc.
Round 6 Ch1, dc in each dc around, join
with ss to first dc.
Round 7 Ch2, htr in next 15 sts,
(htr2tog) 6 times, htr in next 15 sts,
htr2tog, join with ss to top of beg ch-2.
[38 htr]
Round 8 Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next
15 sts, (dc2tog) 3 times, dc in next 16
sts, join with ss to first dc. [35 dc]
Round 9 Ch1, (dc2tog) twice, dc in each
st to last 4 sts, (dc2tog) twice, join with
ss to first dc. [31 dc]
Round 10 Ch2, htr in each dc around,
join with ss to top of beg ch-2.
Round 11 Ch1, dc in first 9 dc, (dc2tog)
7 times, dc in last 8 dc, join with ss to
first dc. [24 dc]
Rounds 12 and 13 Ch1, dc in each st
around, joing with ss to first dc.
Round 14 Ch1, 2dc in first st, dc in next
3 dc, *2dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc;
repeat from * around. [30 dc]
Work Rounds 1-6 of Crocodile Stitch as
follows.
CROCODILE STITCH PATTERN
Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip
1 dc, tr in next 2 dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, tr in
next dc, ch1, skip 1 dc, tr in next 2 dc;
repeat from * around to last st, ch1, skip 1
dc, join with ss to 3rd ch of beg ch-4.
Round 2 *Holding piece with first st to be
worked rotated 90º to the right and
working from right to left, 5tr around post
of next tr; ch1, rotate piece 180º, 5tr
around post of next tr, ss in next tr; repeat
from * around, ending with ss in same
place as Round 1 joining ss.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr here and
throughout), tr in same st, *ch1, tr in next
space between 2 tr at centre of Crocodile
Stitch, ch1**, 2tr in next ss; repeat from *
around, ending last repeat at **, join with
ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 4 Working around posts as for
Round 2, ch1, 5tr around starting ch of
row below, ch1, 5tr around post of next tr,
ss in next tr, *5tr around next tr, ch1, 5tr
around next tr, ss in next tr; repeat from *
around.
Round 5 Ss in next space, ss between 2 tr
at centre of Crocodile Stitch, ch4 (counts
as tr, ch1), 2tr in next ss, *ch1, tr in next
space between 2tr at centre of Crocodile
Stitch, ch1, 2tr in next ss, ch1; repeat from
* around, join with ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 6 Repeat Round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
BABY CROCS
Abbreviated crocodile Stitch Pattern
Read the chart from bottom to top, and
all rounds are read from right to left.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 33
StarrY nighT
Give the gift of warmth this winter
with Helen Ardley’s stellar blanket.

EASY PEASY ARAN 5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QCascade 220 Heathers
(100g/200m, 100% Peruvian
highland wool), 6 hanks of
Indigo Frost
QA 5mm (US H/8) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse 01926 882818
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Each square measures 26x26cm
(10¼x10¼in)
Finished blanket measures
80x108cm (31½x42½in)
ABBREVIATIONS
5-tr cl (Yrh, insert hook in sp/st,
yrh and pull up loop, yrh and
draw through 2 loops) 5 times,
inserting hook in same sp/st,
yrh and draw through all loops
on hook
For a full list, see page 130.
GIFTS
W
hen the weather turns icy,
there’s nothing for it but to
cosy up with your favourite
film and this blanket project. The lacy
treble rounds are quick to work, and as it
grows it’ll keep you warm while the
temperature drops. In fact, you might
not even notice the cold while you’re
hooking the pretty heathery yarn from
Cascade, which has warm flecks of grey
mixed with frosty blue. A perfect blend.
C SQUARE (MAKE 12)
Ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 7tr
into ring, ss to top of beg ch-3. [8 sts]
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each tr
around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [16 sts]
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
st at base of ch-3, 2tr into each tr
around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [32 sts]
Round 4 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), 5-tr cl
into next tr, (ch1, tr into next tr, ch1, 5-tr
cl into next tr) around, ss to third of beg
ch-4. [16 tr, 16 5-tr cl]
Round 5 Ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr into
st at base of ch-3, *(ch3, dc into top of
first 5-tr cl, (ch6, dc into top of next 5-tr
cl) 3 times, ch3, 3tr into top of next tr;
rep from * twice more, ch3, dc into top
of next 5-tr cl, (ch6, dc in next 5-tr cl) 3
times, ch3, ss to top of beg ch-3.
[3 ch-6 sp each side, 3 tr each corner]
Round 6 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
st at base of ch-3, tr into next tr, 2tr into
next tr, *2tr into ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into
ch-6 sp, (ch6, dc into next ch-6 sp)
twice, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, 2tr into
next tr, tr into next tr, 2tr into next tr;
rep from * twice more, 2tr into next
ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, (ch6,
dc into next ch-6 sp) twice, ch3, 2tr into
next ch-3 sp, ss to top of beg ch-3.
[2 ch-6 sp each side, 9 tr each corner]
Round 7 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
next tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into next tr, tr into
each of next 4 tr, *2tr into next ch-3 sp,
ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch6, dc into
next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp,
tr into each of next 4 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into
next tr, tr into each of next 4 tr; rep
from * twice more, 2tr into next ch-3 sp,
ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp, ch6, dc into
next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp,
tr into each of next 2 tr, ss to top of beg
ch-3. [1 ch-6 sp each side, 14 tr and
ch-3 sp each corner]
Round 8 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
each of next 2 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3
sp, *tr into each of next 7 tr, 2tr into
next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into next ch-6 sp,
ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, tr into each
of next 7 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 sp; rep
from * twice more, tr into each of next 7
tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, dc into
next ch-6 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp,
tr into each of next 4 tr, ss to top of beg
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 35
 GIFTS

ch-3. [2 ch-3 sp each side, 20 tr and TO MAKE UP

ch-3 sp each corner] Place two squares WS tog and rejoin
Round 9 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into yarn to back loop of one corner st. Ch1
each of next 3 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into ch-3 (does not count as st), insert hook in
sp, *tr into each of next 10 tr, 2tr into back loop of first tr and back loop of
next ch-3 sp, ch3, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, opposite tr on other square and work
tr into each of next 10 tr, (tr, ch3, tr) into 1dc. Work dc sts through the back
ch-3 sp; rep from * twice, tr into each of loops of each stitch – at the end of this
next 10 tr, 2tr into next ch-3 sp, ch3, 2tr one edge, pick up another two squares
into next ch-3 sp, tr into each of next 6 and join in the same way as above.
tr, ss to top of beg ch-3. [1 ch-3 sp each Repeat to join another two squares.
side, 26 tr and ch-3 sp each corner] Repeat the above to join the rem 6
Round 10 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), skip 1 squares. Join the rem edges as above,
tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr to form a blanket 4x3 squares. When all
into next tr, *(tr, ch3, tr) into corner ch-3 squares are joined, rejoin yarn to any
sp, tr into next tr, (ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl outer stitch. Ch1 (does not count as st),
into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr) dc in each st around, with 3dc in each
3 times, ch1, 5-tr cl into next ch-3 sp, corner st.
ch1, tr into next tr, (ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl Fasten off and weave in ends.
into next tr, ch1, skip 1 tr, tr into next tr)
3 times; rep from * twice more, (tr, ch3,
tr) into corner ch-3 sp, tr into next tr,
(ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr, ch1,
skip 1 tr, tr into next tr) 3 times, ch1, 5-tr The combination of treble clusters and lacy
cl into next ch-3 sp, (ch1, tr into next tr, chains creates different levels of texture.
ch1, skip 1 tr, 5-tr cl into next tr) twice,
ch1, ss to third ch of beg ch-4.
[31 sts each side, ch-3 sp each corner]
Round 11 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
into each st and ch around, working
3dc into corner ch-3 sps, ss to first dc
to join. [136 sts]
Round 12 Ch3 (counts as first tr), tr into
each st around, working 3tr into each
corner st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [144 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A CLUSTER STITCH (3-TR CLUSTER)

1 Start a treble in the next
stitch or space in the usual
way: yrh, insert hook, yrh, pull
loop through (3 loops on
hook), yrh, pull through first 2
loops (2 loops on hook). Stop
here, without finishing.
2 Start a 2nd treble in the
same stitch/space: yrh, insert
hook in the same stitch
again, yrh, pull loop through
(4 loops on hook), yrh and
pull through first 2 loops (3
loops on hook). Stop here.
3 Start a 3rd treble: yrh,
insert hk in same stitch, yrh,
pull loop through, yrh, pull
through first 2 loops (4 loops
on hook). Now finish all three
part tr tog: yrh, pull loop
through all 4 loops on hook.
4 This is how your completed
3-tr cluster should look. For a
5-tr cluster, work 2 more part
treble sts before you finish
the cluster. On the next row,
work a stitch into the top of
the cluster as usual.

36 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Snow StyliSh!
Sara Huntington’s cosy hat and mittens
duo are inspired by Fair Isle patterns.

TAKE ON A DK 2.5, 3 &
CHALLENGE WEIGHT 3.5MM
YOU WILL NEED
FOR THE HAT
Q DROPS Karisma (100% wool,
50g/100m), 2 balls of Blue
Turquoise (60), 1 ball of each:
Off White (01), Red (18)
Q A 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A small amount of toy stuffing
Q Stitch markers
FOR THE MITTS
Q DROPS Karisma (100% wool,
50g/100m), 2 balls of Blue
Turquoise (60), 1 ball of each:
Off White (01), Red (18)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A 2.5 mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
Q A small amount of toy stuffing
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse
0800 505 3300
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
TENSION
Hat: 17 sts and 24 rows of dc to
measure 10x10cm (4x4in) with a
3.5mm hook
Mitts: 18 sts and 24 rows of dc to
measure 10x10cm (4x4in) with a
3.5mm hook
MEASUREMENTS
Hat: 56cm (22in) circumference
Mitts: 19cm (7½in) long, 9cm
(3½in) across ‘fingers’ part of
mitten
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
38 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
T
he inspiration for Sara’s gorgeous
pair of garments came from the
cheeky, fun hats worn on ski
slopes the world over. The chunky
pompoms add a wonderful finishing
touch that will brighten any grey
winter’s day!
NOTES
This hat is worked from the top down in
the round and the mittens are worked
from the cuff up. Work stitches
continuously in a spiral without closing
off each round with a slip stitch. It may
help to use a stitch marker in the first
stitch of each round, moving it up as
you work.
Change colour with the last yrh of the
previous stitch. Where more than one
colour is used during one round, carry
the unused colour across the back of
the work. While working the Stripe
Pattern, leave Blue Turquoise joined
and carry it up on the inside of the work
for a couple of rounds.
STRIPE PATTERN
Round 1 With Red, 1dc in each dc
around, change to Off White.
Fasten off Red.
Round 2 With Off White, 1dc in each
dc around.
Round 3 Pick up Blue Turquoise. (1dc in
Off White, 1dc in Blue Turquoise) rep to
end of round.
Round 4 Cont in Off White only, 1dc in
each dc around, change to Red.
Fasten off Off White.
Round 5 With Red, 1dc in each dc
around, change to Blue Turquoise.
Fasten off Red.
C HAT
BODY OF HAT
With 3.5mm hook and Blue Turquoise,
make a magic loop, 12dc into the loop
and ss into first dc. [12 sts]
Rounds 1-4 (RS) 1dc in each dc around.
[12 dc]
Round 5 (1dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc)
repeat to end of round. [18 dc]
Rounds 6-18 1dc in each dc around.
Change to Red.
Rounds 19-23 Work the Stripe Pattern.
Rounds 24-29 With Blue Turquoise,
1dc in each dc around.
Change to Red.
Rounds 30-34 Work the Stripe Pattern.
Round 35 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in
each dc around.
Round 36 (1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [24 dc]
Rounds 37-40 1dc in each dc around.
Change to Red.
Rounds 41-45 Work the Stripe Pattern.
Round 46 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in
each dc around.
Round 47 (1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [32 dc]
Rounds 48-57 1dc in each dc around.
Round 58 (1dc in each of next 3 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [40 dc]
Rounds 59-68 1dc in each dc around.
Round 69 (1dc in each of next 4 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [48 dc]
Rounds 70-73 1dc in each dc around.
Round 74 (1dc in each of next 5 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [56 dc]
Round 75 1dc in each dc around.
Round 76 (1dc in each of next 6 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [64 dc]
Round 77 1dc in each dc around.
Round 78 (1dc in each of next 7 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [72 dc]
Round 79 1dc in each dc around.
Round 80 (1dc in each of next 8 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [80 dc]
Round 81 1dc in each dc around,
change to Red.
Round 82 (1dc in each of next 9 dc, 2dc
in next dc) rep to end of round. [88 dc]
Rounds 83 & 84 Work Rounds 2 and 3
of the Stripe Pattern.
Round 85 Cont with Off White only,
(1dc in each of next 10 dc, 2dc in next
dc) rep to end of round.
Change to Red.
Fasten off Off White. [96 dc]
Round 86 With Red, 1dc in each dc
around.
Change to Blue Turquoise.
Fasten off Red.
CHART
Rounds 87-103 Continue working in
the round and follow the chart for the
next 17 rows. There are 32 stitches on
the chart to be repeated 3 times in
total for each round. [96 dc]
Change to Red.
Rounds 104-108 Work Stripe Pattern.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
CROCHET POMPOM
With a 3mm hook and Red, make a
magic loop, 8dc into the loop and ss to
the first dc to join into a ring.
Round 1 2dc in each dc around. [16 dc]
 WINTER WARDROBE

Round 2 1dc into each dc around.
Round 3 (1dc into next dc, 2dc into
next dc) rep to end of round. [24 dc]
Round 4 (1dc into next 2 dc, 2dc into
next dc) rep to end of round. [32 dc]
Round 5 (1dc into next 3 dc, 2dc into
next dc) rep to end of round. [40 dc]
Round 6 1dc into each dc around,
change to Blue Turquoise, do not
fasten off Red.
Round 7 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into
each dc around, change to Off White.
Fasten off Blue Turquoise.
Round 8 With Off White 1dc into each
dc around.
Round 9 Pick up Red, (1dc in Off White,
1dc in Red) rep to end of round.
Round 10 Cont in Off White only, 1dc
in each dc around.
Change to Blue Turquoise.
Fasten off Off White.
Round 11 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc in
each dc around.
Change to Red.
Fasten off Blue Turquoise.
Rounds 12-13 With Red, 1dc in each dc
around.
Round 14 (1dc into next 3 dc, dc2tog),
repeat to end of round. [32 dc]
Round 15 (1dc into next 2 dc, dc2tog)
rep to end of round. [24 dc]
Round 16 1dc into each dc around.
Stuff the ball firmly.
Round 17 (1dc into next dc, dc2tog)
rep to end of round. [16 dc]
Round 18 (dc2tog) 8 times. [8 dc]
TO FINISH
Sew the top closed, leaving a long tail
to attach the pompom to the hat.
Sew pompom in place.
2dc in next st, 14dc. [34 dc]
Round 4 1dc in each dc around.
Round 5 15dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc,
2dc into next dc, 15dc. [36 dc]
Round 6 1dc in each dc around.
Round 7 16dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc,
2dc into next dc, 16dc. [38 dc]
Round 8 1dc into each dc around.
Round 9 17dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc,
2dc into next dc, 17dc. [40 dc]
Round 10 1dc in each dc around.
Round 11 18dc, 2dc into the next dc,
2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 18dc. [42 dc]
Round 12 1dc into each dc around.
Round 13 19dc, 2dc into the next dc,
2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 19dc. [44 dc]
Round 14 1dc into each dc around.
Round 15 20dc, 2dc into next dc, 2dc,
2dc into next dc, 20dc. [46 dc]
Round 16 1dc into each dc around.
Round 17 21dc, 2dc into the next dc,
2dc, 2dc into the next dc, 21dc. [48 dc]
Round 18 1dc into each dc around.
SHAPE THUMB
Round 19 17dc, skip 14 dc, 1dc into
each of next 17dc. [34 dc exc thumb]
Rounds 20-24 1dc into each dc around.
Rounds 25-29 To hide the ‘jog’ in
the pattern that will occur at the start
of a new round, work 17dc in Blue
Turquoise, which will take you up to the
thumb crease.
Take the next stitch as the new start of
the round from this point onwards, and
work the 4 rounds of the Stripe Pattern,
as written for the Hat.
Round 30 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc
into each dc around.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
BOBBLES (MAKE 4)
With a 2.5mm hook and Red, make a
magic loop, 8dc into the loop and ss to
the first dc to join into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) 2dc into each dc around.
[16 dc]
Round 2 1dc into each dc around,
change to Blue Turquoise, do not
fasten off Red.
Round 3 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into
each dc around, change to Off White,
do not fasten off Blue Turquoise.
Round 4 With Off White, 1dc into each
dc around.
Change to Blue Turquoise.
Fasten off Off White.
Round 5 With Blue Turquoise, 1dc into
each dc around.
Change to Red.
Fasten off Blue Turquoise.
Round 6 With Red, 1dc into each dc
around.
Round 7 (Dc2tog) 8 times. [8 dc]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff the bobble firmly with a small
amount of toy stuffing. Using a darning
needle, thread the tail of yarn in a
running stitch around the top of the
bobble and pull tight to close.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TIE
With a 2.5mm hook and Red, ch85.
Fasten off.
TO FINISH
Thread the Tie through the eyelets
above the ribbing. Sew a Bobble to
each end and tie in a bow.

MITTENS
CUFF Read the chart from bottom to top, and all rounds are read
With a 3.5mm hook and Blue Turquoise, from right to left (left to right if you are left-handed).
ch32.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 1tr Diagram C
into each chain around. [32 tr] 17 Key
16
Round 2 (1FPtr, 1BPtr) repeat around. 15 Blue Turquoise
Repeat Round 2 until the cuff measures 14
13 Off White
6cm. Do not fasten off. 12
Round 1 1dc in each stitch around. 11
10
[32 dc] 9
8
Round 2 (Eyelet round) (3dc, ch1, skip 7
next dc) 7 times, 3dc, ch1, skip last dc 6
5
ready to work next st in the first st of 4
the next round. [8 eyelet holes] 3
2
Round 3 Working into dc stitches and 1
ch-1 sps alike, 14dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc, 30 25 20 15 10 5

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 39
Discover all the ideas, inspiration and crafting supplies you could ever dream of!

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Jewellery Making & Beading / Papercraft & Cardmaking / Festive Crafts / Demonstrations / Workshops
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It’s A
wrAp!
Bundle up in Hannah
Cross’s jumbo-sized
woolly scarf.
 WINTER WARDROBE
EASY PEASY CHUNKY 10MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
C SCARF
YOU WILL NEED
Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%
wool, 50m/50g), 12 balls of
Yarn A Oyster (1122), 4 balls of
Yarn B Misty Morning (1120)
Q Erika Knight Maxi Wool (100%
wool, 80m/100g), 2 skeins of
Yarn C Pretty (212), 2 skeins of
Yarn D Artisan (206)
Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
TENSION
10sts and 10 rows to measure
10x10cm (4x4in)
MEASUREMENTS
Approx 40x175cm (15¾x69in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
42 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
S
o cosy, so cuddly, so soft, so
comforting. What more could you
want? This giant scarf easily
doubles as a wrap and will keep your
neck and shoulders warm in chilly
temperatures. Wear it for evening
parties or every day when you’re out
and about. It’s crocheted in a stripy
combo of warm, neutral and rich colours
in 100% wool yarn, which together gives
a sumptuous look and feel. Though the
bobble rows may at first look
challenging, in fact they’re easy to
achieve using treble stitches.
With Yarn A ch41.
Row 1 (WS) Dc in second ch from hook
and each ch across, turn. [40 dc]
Row 2 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in back loop only of
each dc across, turn.
Rows 3-9 Rep Row 2.
Rows 10-12 Change to Yarn B, rep
Row 2.
Rows 13-14 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Row 15 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2.
Row 16 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 17 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2.
Row 18 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 19 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2.
Row 20 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 21 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2.
Row 22 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 23 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2.
Row 24 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 25 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2.
Row 26 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 27 Change to Yarn B, rep Row 2.
Rows 28-29 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Rows 30-32 Change to Yarn B, rep
Row 2.
Rows 33-41 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Rows 42-43 Change to Yarn D, rep
Row 2.
Row 44 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 45 Change to Yarn D, ch1, ss in
first 2 dc, *3-tr cl in next st, ss in next 3
dc; rep from * across to last 6 sts, (3-tr
cl in next st, ss in next 2 dc) twice, turn.
Rows 46-48 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Row 49 Change to Yarn C, ch1, ss in
first 4 dc, *3-tr cl in next st, ss in next 3
dc; rep from * across, turn.
Rows 50-51 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Rows 52-53 Change to Yarn B, rep
Row 2.
Row 54 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Row 55 Repeat Row 49.
Rows 56-58 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Row 59 Repeat Row 45.
Row 60 Change to Yarn A, rep Row 2.
Rows 61-62 Change to Yarn D, rep
Row 2.
Rows 63-113 Change to Yarn A, rep
Row 2.
Rows 114-174 Starting at Row 62,
repeat the rows in reverse order,
working backwards to Row 2.
When you reach Row 9 you will need to
change to Yarn A.
Row 175 Rep Row 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
WinteR sun
Beat the chill with Kath Webber’s
chunky, slouchy hats and mitts.

IMPROVE CHUNKY 8MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT 10MM
YOU WILL NEED
FOR THE STRIPY HAT
Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%
wool, 50g/50m), 2 balls each of:
Yarn A Oyster (1122)
Yarn B Misty Morning (1120)
FOR THE SPOTTY HAT
Q ErikaKnight Fat Maxi Wool
(100% wool, 100g/80m),
2 skeins of Yarn A Pretty (212),
1 skein of Yarn B Artisan (206)
FOR BOTH HATS
Q An 8mm (US L/11) hook for
small/medium size
Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook for
large/extra-large size
Q 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker
Q Tapestry needle
FOR THE SPOTTY MITTS
Q Erika Knight Fat Maxi Wool
(100% wool, 100g/80m), 1 skein
of Yarn A Artisan (206)
Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%
wool, 50g/50m), 1 ball of
Yarn B Misty Morning (1120)
Q A 10mm (US N/15) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Hats (ex pompom): 32cm (12½in)
tall, S/M 53cm (20¾in) circ, L/XL
60cm (23½in) circ. Mitts: 14cm
(5½in) long, 21cm (8¼in) circ
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
44 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
T
hese supersized hats can be worn
two ways: turn up the chunky cuff
for a snug bobble hat, or leave it
down for a slouchy beanie. The ribbed
cuff is worked first, using rows of half
treble stitches in the back loops only.
This strip is then joined and the rest of
the hat is worked along the long edge in
the round. Team your hat with a pair of
textured mitts, complete with bobbles
made from contrasting yarn, then hit the
slopes, high street or wherever else you
plan to stand out from the crowd!
NOTES
Change colour in the last yrh of the
previous stitch. When changing colour
mid-row, twist ends of two colours
together. Rather than cutting the yarn
after each colour change, leave it
hanging on WS, ready to pick up at next
colour change.
Use a stitch marker to mark the end of
each round to help count rows.
C STRIPY HAT
CUFF
With an 8mm hook for S/M size or a
10mm hook for X/XL size and Yarn A,
ch12 to begin ribbed cuff.
Row 1 (RS) Htr into 3rd ch from hook
(skipped ch do not count as st), htr into
each ch across, turn. [10 sts]
Row 2 (WS) Ch2 (does not count as
htr), htr into back loop of each htr
across, turn.
Rows 3-31 As Row 2.
Row 32 (WS) Place short edges tog,
ch1, htr into front loop of each st
across, and into the ch row of short end
at same time. Do not fasten off.
BODY OF HAT
Turn cuff piece so you’re now working
on long edge.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), work
35tr evenly around, ss to top of beg
ch-3. [36 sts]
Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc into back loop of each
st around, ss to first dc.
Change to Yarn B.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr into each
st around, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 4 Ch1, dc into back loop of each
st around, ss to first dc.
Rounds 5-6 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn A.
Rounds 7-8 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn B.
Rounds 9-10 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn A.
Rounds 11-12 As Rounds 3-4 in Yarn B.
Round 13 With Yarn A, ch3 (counts as
tr), tr into each of next 3 sts, tr2tog, (tr
into each of next 4 sts, tr2tog) 5 times,
ss to top of beg ch-3. [30 sts]
Round 14 Ch1, (dc into each of next 3
sts, dc2tog) 6 times, ss to first dc.
[24 sts]
Change to Yarn B.
Round 15 Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next
st, tr2tog, (tr into each of next 2 sts,
tr2tog) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-3.
[18 sts]
Round 16 Ch1, dc2tog around. [9 sts]
Fasten off Yarn B.
Change to Yarn A.
Round 17 Ch1, (tr2tog) 4 times, tr in last st.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
TO MAKE UP
Using a large, blunt tapestry needle,
pass the tail end of yarn through the
rem sts and pull tightly to close.
Use an 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker or
cardboard disc method to make a large
pompom, and sew to hat top.
Weave in ends.
SPOTTY HAT
NOTES
The hat is made using tapestry crochet.
There is a chart to refer to on page 45.
CUFF
With an 8mm hook for S/M size or a
10mm hook for X/XL size and Yarn A,
work Cuff as given for Stripy Hat.
Fasten off Yarn A.
BODY OF HAT
Round 1 (RS) Join in Yarn B in any
stitch, ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc into each row end
around, ss to first dc. [32 sts]
Round 2 Ch1, dc into each dc around,
ss to first dc.
Rounds 3-13 Work as given for Round
2, following the chart for each round,
beginning at bottom-right edge.
Round 14 Cont with colour changes as
given in chart, this row begins to
decrease. Ch1, dc into each of next 3
sts, skip 1 st, (dc into each of next 7 sts,
skip 1 st) 3 times, 1dc into each of next
4 sts, ss to first dc. [28 sts]
Round 15 Cont in Yarn B only, ch1, dc
into each of next 2 sts, (dc2tog, dc into
each of next 5 sts) 3 times, dc2tog, 1dc
into each of next 3 sts, ss to first dc.
 WINTER WARDROBE

[24 sts] Turn up the chunky

Round 16 Ch1, (dc into next st, dc2tog) ribbed cuff on this
hat for a snug fit
6 times, ss to first dc. [18 sts]
Round 17 (Dc2tog) 9 times. [9 sts]
Round 18 Ch1, (dc into next st, dc2tog)
3 times. [6 sts]
Round 19 (Dc2tog) 3 times. [3 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

TO MAKE UP
Using a large, blunt tapestry needle,
pass the tail end of yarn through the
rem sts and pull tightly to close.
Use an 8.5cm (3¼in) pompom maker or
cardboard disk method to make a large
pompom, and sew to hat top.
Weave in ends.

SPOTTY MITTS
SPECIAL ABBREVIATION
Foundation dc (fdc) Worked instead
of foundation ch: Ch2, dc in second ch
from hook, adding ch1 before last yrh of
dc. *Dc in ch-1 of previous st, adding ch1
before last yrh of dc; repeat from * until
you have the number of dc stated.

NOTES
The mitts are made in the round from
the top down, with a contrast bobble on
back of each one plus a thumbhole.

LEFT MITT
With a 10mm hook and Yarn A, place a
slipknot onto hook leaving a 15cm (6in)
tail.
Foundation round 1 15fdc, ss into first into first dc. [15 sts] first dc. [15 sts]
fdc to join into the round, being careful Round 12 Ch1, 3dc, dc2tog, 10dc, ss to Round 12 Ch1, 10dc, dc2tog, 3dc, ss to
not to twist. Use tail to sew the gap at first dc. [14 sts] first dc. [14 sts]
the base of the round closed. [15 sts] Fasten off and weave in ends. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Rounds 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in each st around, ss to RIGHT MITT
first dc. Rounds 1-4 Work as for Left Mitt.
CHART FOR
Round 5 Ch1, 2dc, ch5, skip 3 dc, 3dc, Round 5 Ch1, 6dc, change to Yarn B, SPOTTY HAT
change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in next 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn
14
dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st to A, 3dc, ch5, skip 3 dc, dc in each st to 13
end, ss to first dc. end, ss to first dc. 12
Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st and ch Round 6 Ch1, dc in each st around ch 11
10
around, ss to first dc. [17 sts] around, ss to first dc. [17 sts] 9
Round 7 Ch1, 8dc, change to Yarn B, Round 7 Ch1, 4dc, change to Yarn B, 8 Key
7
3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn 3-tr cluster in next dc, change to Yarn 6 Yarn A
A, 3dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in A, 3dc, change to Yarn B, 3-tr cluster in 5 Yarn B
next dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st next dc, change to Yarn A, dc in each st 4
3 No stitch
to end, ss to first dc. to end, ss to first dc.
5
Rounds 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st around, Rounds 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st around,
ss to first dc. ss to first dc. Pattern repeat
Round 10 Ch1, 4dc, dc2tog, 11dc, ss Round 10 Ch1, 11dc, dc2tog, 4dc, ss to
into first dc. [16 sts] first dc. [16 sts] Each square represents 1dc st. Read all rows
Round 11 Ch1, 3dc, dc2tog, 11dc, ss Round 11 Ch1, 11dc, dc2tog, 3dc, ss to from right to left. Begin at bottom right.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 45
 WINTER WARDROBE

thE big chilL

Envelop yourself in an oh-so wearable, relaxed-fit
jumbo cardi designed by Simone Francis.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 47
 WINTER WARDROBE

W
hat happens when you mix
relaxed, everyday style with
dressing gown levels of
comfort? A rather marvellous snuggly
cardigan, that’s what. This understated
design by Simone Francis boasts
three-quarter-length sleeves, a chic
shawl collar, and super-chunky wool and
alpaca mix softness. You’ll be using
front and back post trebles to achieve
the scrumptious ribbed texture around
the cuffs and hem, and half trebles to
create the rest of the garment. What are
you waiting for? Get your hooks out!
IMPROVE SUPER 10MM
YOUR SKILLS CHUNKY 12MM
NOTES
The main body of the cardigan is
worked sideways: one front side and
YOU WILL NEED half of the back, then repeated for the
QDebbie Bliss Roma opposite side.
(70% wool, 30% alpaca, A seam is worked to join the back
100g/80m), Steel (53003), sections. The sleeves are then worked
see table for yarn quantities separately, from the bottom up.
and measurements Once sewn together, a rib welt is then
QA 10mm (US N/15) hook picked up around the lower edge and
QA 12mm (US O/17) hook then a shawl collar added.
QTapestry needle Each row is started with (ss, ch1) into
For yarn stockists, contact the first st – this forms the first st with a
Designer Yarns 01535 664222 neat st. The final htr st is worked into
www.designeryarns.uk.com the ch-1 of the (ss, ch1).
ch from hook (skipped ch do not count
as st), htr in each st to end, turn.
[76 (78: 80: 82) sts]
Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st (counts
as a st throughout), htr into each st to
end, turn.
Repeating Row 1, work 4 (6: 8: 10) more
rows.
SHOULDER SHAPING
Row 1 (WS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, 36 (37:
38: 39) htr, (2htr into next st) twice, htr
in each st to end, turn.
[78 (80: 82: 84) sts]
Row 2 Work in htr st, without shaping:
(Ss, ch1) into first st, htr into each st to
end, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-2. [80 (82: 84: 86) sts]
Row 5 Work as Row 2.**
DIVIDE FOR BACK
Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, 37 (38:
39: 40) htr, turn leaving remaining sts
unworked for Front. [38 (39: 40: 41) sts]
Row 2 (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in each
st to end, turn.
Repeating Row 2, work two more rows
in htr st.
Fasten off, leaving a long end for
sewing the Back seam.

TENSION C LEFT FRONT AND BACK RIGHT FRONT AND BACK

6½ sts and 5½ rows to measure When finished, this piece will be folded Work as given for Left Front and Back
10x10cm (4x4in) over htr using a at the shoulder with the foundation to **.
12mm hook or size needed to chain joined to form the side seam.
obtain tension DIVIDE FOR BACK
With a 12mm hook, ch 78 (80: 82: 84) Break yarn and skip 42 (43: 44: 45) sts,
ABBREVIATIONS with a loose and even tension. rejoin yarn to the following st with a ss
For a full list, see page 130. Foundation row (WS) Htr into the 3rd and cont as follows:

SIZE S M L XL
29¼ (30: 30½: 31)in

cm 81-91 97-102 107-112 117-122

75 (76: 78: 79)cm

TO FIT BUST
in 32-36 38-40 42-44 46-48
cm 109 124 138 153
28cm ACTUAL BUST
in 43 48¾ 54½ 60
11in
cm 75 76 78 79
LENGTH
in 29¼ 30 30½ 31
FRONT
cm 28 28 28 28
SLEEVE LENGTH
54.5 (62: 69: 76.5)cm in 11 11 11 11
21½ (24½: 27¼: 30)in
100g
YARN 11 12 13 14
balls

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply
follow the relevant column.

48 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 WINTER WARDROBE

Row 1 (RS) (1dc, ch1) into first st, htr in TO MAKE UP

each st to end, turn. [38 (39: 40: 41) sts]
Row 2 (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in each
st to end, turn.
Repeating Row 2, work 2 more rows in
htr st.
Fasten off, leaving a long end for
sewing the Back seam.
SLEEVES (MAKE 2)
RIB WELT
With a 10mm hook, ch30 (32: 34: 36).
Foundation row Tr into the 4th ch from
hook (counts as 2 tr), tr in each st to
end, turn. [28 (30: 32: 34) sts]
Row 1 Ch2 (counts as first st), *1FPtr
in next st, 1BPtr in next st; repeat
from * to end, working 1tr into turning
ch, turn.
Repeat Row 1, four times more.
Join Back and Side seams using your
preferred seaming method.
Set in Sleeves, carefully pinning in place
before sewing them in.
LOWER RIB WELT
With RS facing and 12mm hook, join
yarn with a ss to lower Left Front
corner.
Foundation row Ch2 (counts as first st),
tr evenly 73 (83: 91: 101) sts around
lower edge, turn. [74 (84: 92: 102) sts]
Change to a 10mm hook.
Row 1 Ch2 (counts as first st), *1FPtr
in next st, 1BPtr in next st; repeat
from * to end, working 1tr into turning
ch, turn. The generous, relaxed fit of this cardigan
Repeat Row 1 eight times more. means you can really wrap up warm in it.
Fasten off.

MAIN SLEEVE COLLAR

Change to 12mm hook.
Row 1 (RS) (Ss, ch1) into first st, htr in
each st to end, turn.
Row 2 (Ss, ch1, htr) into first st (increase
st), htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last
st, turn. [30 (32: 34: 36) sts]
Rows 3-4 Work in htr st, without
shaping, as Row 1.
Row 5 (Ss, ch1, htr) into first st, htr in
each st to last st, 2htr in last st, turn.
[32 (34: 36: 38) sts]
Repeat Rows 3-5 once more.
[34 (36: 38: 40) sts]
Work 2 rows in htr st, without shaping.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
sewing up.
With RS facing and 12mm hook, join
yarn with a ss to lower Right Front
corner.
Foundation row Ch2 (counts as htr), htr
8 sts evenly along Rib welt, 44 (45: 46:
47) htr up Right Front, 14htr around
Back Neckline, 44 (45: 46: 47) htr down
Left Front, 9htr along Rib welt, turn.
[120 (122: 124: 126) sts]
Row 1 (Ss, ch1) in first st, htr into each
st to end, turn. The cardigan’s three-quarter-length sleeves
Repeat Row 1 five times more. are topped off with wide ribbed cuffs.
Fasten off.
TO FINISH
Weave in all ends neatly.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A FRONT POST TREBLE STITCH

1 Identify the post of the
next stitch. Then work yrh (as
usual for a treble stitch) and
insert hook into the front of
the fabric, around the back of
the post, and bring out hook
on other side of post.
2 Work the rest of the stitch
as you usually would for a
treble, so yrh and carefully
pull the loop of yarn out of
the fabric – it should loop
around the post of the stitch.
3 Work yrh again and pull
the yarn through the first 2
loops. Yrh and pull the yarn
through the remaining 2
loops to complete the front
post treble stitch.
4 You’ll see how the stitch is
raised up, compared to the
rest of the fabric. Work more
front post treble stitches in
the same way, repeating
from Step 1.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 49
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 WINTER WARDROBE

So
UPCY cool!
SWEACLE A
TER

leT it Snow
Customise your own Christmas jumper with
Louise Smith’s pretty appliqué project.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 51

EASY-PEASY DK 3.5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QWendy Supreme Luxury Cotton
Sparkle DK (100% mercerised
cotton, 100g/201m),
1 ball of 1910 (White)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
QA plain jumper
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Overall motif measures 25cm
(9¾in) diameter
Snowflake motifs measure 4cm
(1½in), 5cm (2in), 6cm (2¼in) and
9cm (3½in) diameter from Small
to Extra Large
ABBREVIATIONS
Front and Back loop stitch (fbl)
Insert hook in the front loop of
the next st, yrh and draw yarn
through, insert hook in the back
loop of the same st, yrh and draw
yarn through, yrh and draw
through all loops on hook.
You can replace this stitch in the
pattern with a double crochet
stitch if you find it easier.
Picot stitches
Work the number of ch stated (eg
5 ch for a ch-5 picot), ss in the first
of those ch.
For a full list, see page 130.
52 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
L
ove them or hate them, it seems st), 6dc in magic loop, ss to the first dc.
Christmas jumpers are here to stay. [7 dc]
Why not put your own handmade Fasten off and weave in ends.
twist on the trend by decorating an old
plain jumper to make a new festive BAUBLE TOP (MAKE 1)
favourite? A flurry of fairly simple motifs Ch10.
is arranged to create a subtle bauble Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
shape. There are six different shapes to the hook and each ch to end, turn.
make, each one worked in white cotton [9 dc]
DK yarn with a hint of sparkle. As novelty Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), fbl in
jumpers go, this one is firmly at the each st to end, turn.
stylish end of the spectrum – something Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twice more.
you’ll be proud to wear. Get hooking! Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), 5dc,
ch13, ss in the first ch of ch-13, dc in
C SMALL SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 4) same st as previous dc, dc in each st
Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to to end.
secure. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Round 1 (RS) *Ch4, tr in second ch
from hook, ss in each of 2 ch down to TO FINISH
first ch, ss in magic loop; repeat from * Block the Snowflakes before sewing on
7 times more. – this will give a neater finish. Or you
Fasten off and weave in ends. could just gently iron the jumper on the
reverse afterwards.
MEDIUM SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3)
Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to Arrange each Snowflake and Snowdrop
secure. to form a circle on the jumper.
Round 1 (RS) *Ch2, (ch-2 picot) twice, You might find it helps to tack a
ss at base of picots, dc into magic loop, temporary circle onto the jumper, using
ch1, (ch-2 picot) twice, ss at base of a plate as a guide, and then arrange
picots, dc in magic loop; repeat from * the snowflake shapes within the circle.
4 times more, omitting the very last dc,
ss to the first dc to join. Sew each Snowflake and Snowdrop to
Fasten off and weave in ends. the jumper, then sew the Bauble Top at
the top of the circle.
LARGE SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3)
Make a magic loop and ch1 into loop to
secure.
Round 1 (RS) *Ch2, (ch-3 picot) 3 times,
ss at base of picots, ss in each of beg
ch-2 towards loop, dc in magic loop;
repeat from * 7 times more, omitting
the very last dc, ss to the first dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
EXTRA LARGE SNOWFLAKE (MAKE 3)
Ch5, ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 17tr into
ring, ss to the top of the beginning
ch-3. [18 tr]
Round 2 *Ss in next 3 tr, ch-5 picot,
ch-7 picot, ch-5 picot, ss at base of
picots, ss in next 3 tr, ch-7 picot, ch-9
picot, ch-7 picot, ss at base of picots;
repeat from * twice more.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
SNOWDROPS (MAKE 16)
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
 A ccess
o r
Make A wisH
ise w ith sweet and simple shining
star s.

use metallic
y a r n fo r e !
extra sparkl

SPECIAL ABBREVIATION of the previous round; repeat from * LARGE STAR

Picot Ch3, ss in the st at the base of
the ch just worked.
BASIC STAR PATTERN
Make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch4 (counts as htr, ch2),
(2htr into the loop, ch2) 4 times, htr
into loop, ss into the beg ch-2 sp.
Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as a
stitch), *(dc, htr, tr, picot, tr, htr, dc) in
the ch-2 sp, ss in the sp between 2-htr
4 times more.
Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as a
stitch), *2dc, htr, (htr, tr, picot, tr, htr) in
the picot of the previous round, htr,
2dc, skip ss; rep from * 4 times more,
ss into the first dc.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
SMALL STAR
To make a small star, follow Rounds 1-2
of the Basic Star Pattern.
To make a large star, follow Rounds 1-3
Basic Star Pattern.
You may wish to block your star so it
lies completely flat.
Pattern by Jennifer May.
Turn over for creative ideas
for what you can make with
your twinkly star pattern.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 53

Rare and beautiful,
a shooting star is quite
a sight to behold.
ShootIng sTar pUrse siLver oriOn’S belT
Update your go-to party clutch bag
with a bit of glitz. One simple star
makes a world of difference. This
project uses unusual memory wire –
it’s fun to work with something new.
Q DMC Color Infusions Memory Thread
(40% copper, 34% viscose, 23%
cotton, 3% polyamide, 2.7m),
3 skeins of Silver (6210).
For stockists, call 0116 275 4000
QA 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
QA sewing needle and thread
MEASUREMENTS
Star motif meas 9cm (3½in) diameter
STAR
Using Silver, follow the Basic Star
pattern to make one Large Star.
TAILS
Cut five varying lengths of Memory
Thread. Using the image as a guide,
fold the lengths in half and twist them.
TO MAKE UP
Again, using the image as a guide,
stitch the five tails securely onto the
back of the star along one edge,
making sure the longest is at the top
and the shortest is at the bottom.
Sew the star onto your bag.
54 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
make a shape
Highlight your waist and jazz up a
dress with this easy peasy, stylish
belt, adorned with three silver stars.
Silver is our favourite metallic shade.
Q Yeoman Angelina 4ply Lurex ribbon
(61% polyester 39% nylon
100g/300m), 1 cone of Silver (01)
For stockists, call 0116 240 4464
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
Q A plain elastic waist belt
Q A sewing needle and thread
MEASUREMENTS
Large star: 8cm (3in) diameter
Small star: 5cm (2in) diameter
STARS
Using Angelina, follow the Basic Star
pattern to make one Large Star and
two Small Stars.
TO MAKE UP
Using the sewing needle and thread,
and the image as a guide, sew the
three stars securely to the centre back
of the belt, with the large star in the
middle and the two smaller stars either
side of it.
Your belt will now fasten at the back.
For an even bigger constellation,
simply make more stars (there’s a lot
of yarn on the cone).
Have you ever
considered wearing
a constellation?
stArdusT shoE clipS
Whether or not you can wow with
your Charleston, you’ll certainly be
able to dance the night away in style
with a pair of pretty shoe clips. Just
the ticket for your everyday ballet
pumps or your best dancing shoes.
Q DMC Metallic (100% polyester, 8m),
2 skeins of Light Gold Precious Metal
Effects E677
Q A 2.5mm (US B/1 or C/2) hook
Q A pair of shoe clips
Q A sewing needle and thread
MEASUREMENTS
Each motif measures 6cm (2¼in)
diameter
STAR
Using Light Gold, follow the Basic Star
pattern to make two Large Stars.
TO MAKE UP
Using the sewing needle and thread,
sew one star securely to each of the
shoe clips, making sure that the RS is
facing up.
To use your shoe clips, simply attach
them to the front of your shoes.
The beauty of them is that they can be
put on any pair. You could make sets in
different colours to match your whole
shoe collection!
make a shape

Is there anything that wouldn’t

look better studded with a host of
crochet stars? Now you’re kitted
out and ready to shine on into the
night. Twinkle, twinkle, little star.
 WINTER WARDROBE

EASY-PEASY CHUNKY 9MM

TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

Q Twilley’s Freedom Wool (100%
wool, 49m/50g), 1 ball of
Yarn A Oyster (1122)
Q Erika Knight Maxi Wool (100%
wool, 80m/100g), 1 ball of each:
Yarn B Pretty (212)
Yarn C Artisan (206)
Q A 9mm (US M/13) hook
super
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264 speedy
www.tbramsden.co.uk make!
TENSION
11 sts and 7 rows to 10x10cm
(4x4in)

MEASUREMENTS
Each topper measures 26x40cm
(10¼x15¾in) around with plenty
of stretch

ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.

Top tOpperS
Hannah Cross’s chunky boot toppers
are the perfect stocking filler.

A
dd some pizzazz to your boot
collection this winter with these
decorative toppers. Made in big
and bold chunky yarn, they’re ideal for
keeping calves warm and looking stylish
in the park or on the piste. They make a
quick and easy gift idea, too!
C TOPPERS (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, ch29.
Row 1 (RS) Htr in 2nd ch from hook and
Bold brights or pale and interesting pastels next 13 ch, dc in next 14 ch, turn. [28
– just pick three shades and get hooking! sts]
Row 2 Change to Yarn B, ch1 (does not
count as st), htr in back loop only of first
14 sts, dc in front loop only of rem 14
sts, turn.
Row 3 Change to Yarn C, rep Row 2.
Rows 4-24 Repeat Row 2 working
through each colour in this order: A, B,
C. Do not fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Fold the topper in half and dc into the
foundation ch to join into a tube.
Fasten off and weave in ends.

56 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 WINTER WARDROBE

So p
retty!
DEL ICA
STYL TE
E

Jewel purposE
Drape yourself in diamonds with this
beautiful scarf by Elisabeth Davis de Herraiz.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 57
 WINTER WARDROBE
IMPROVE 4PLY 4MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QMadelinetosh Tosh Sock
(100% wool, 100g/361m),
2 skeins of Vermillion (011)
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Loop 020 7288 1160
www.loopknittingshop.com
TENSION
One motif meas 10x12cm (4x4¾in)
MEASUREMENTS
Finished shawl meas 80x145cm
(31½x57in) after blocking
ABBREVIATIONS
5-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in space
indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and
draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the
hook in the same space each time, yrh and
draw through all loops on hook.
Picot Ch3, ss in first ch.
For a full list, see page 130.
JOINING SHAWL MOTIF
For the seam
joining detail
see the diagram
to the right
58 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
NOTE
The shawl is made from individual
motifs, which are worked from bottom
to top in rows. These are then joined
together and an edging is added all the
way around.
C DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 28)
Ch3, ss to first ch to join into a ring.
Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout),
4tr into ring, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch3, 4tr in first tr from
Row 1, skip next tr, dc in tr, skip next tr,
5tr in last tr, turn.
Row 3 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 2,
skip next tr, dc in tr, ch5, skip 4 tr, dc in
next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn.
Row 4 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 3,
skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, 5-tr
cluster in ch-5 sp, ch5, skip 2 tr, dc in
next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn.
Row 5 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 4,
skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, dc in first
ch-5 sp, ch5, dc in next ch-5 sp, ch5,
skip 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in
last tr, turn.
Row 6 Ch3, 4tr in first tr from Row 5,
skip next tr, dc in next tr, ch5, dc in next
ch-5 sp, ch5, 5-tr cluster in next ch-5 sp,
ch5, dc in ch-5 sp, ch5, skip 2 tr, dc in
next tr, skip next tr, 5tr in last tr, turn.
Join the seams
in this direction
Row 7 Ss in next 2 tr, dc in next tr, skip
2 tr, 5tr in dc, (dc in next ch-5 sp, ch5) 3
times, dc in next ch-5 sp, 5tr in next dc,
skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn.
Row 8 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in next
tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in ch-5 sp, ch5,
5-tr cluster in ch-5 sp, ch5, dc in ch-5
sp, 5tr in dc, skip 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn.
Row 9 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in tr,
skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in next ch-5 sp,
ch5, dc in next ch-5 sp, 5tr in next dc,
skip next 2 tr, dc in next tr, turn.
Row 10 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in
next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in dc, dc in ch-5 sp,
5tr in next dc, skip 2 tr, dc in next tr,
turn.
Row 11 Ss in dc and next 2 tr, dc in
next tr, skip 2 tr, 5tr in next dc, skip next
2 tr, dc in next tr. Fasten off.
HALF DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 6)
Repeat Rows 1-6 of Diamond Motif.
Fasten off.
JOINING MOTIFS
Lay out motifs: 1 motif at bottom, 2
motifs on second row, 3 on third row,
and so on, until you have placed all 28
motifs and have a triangle with a total
of 7 motifs along the top. Place the 6
half motifs along the top to form a
straight edge. The motifs are joined
using the zigzag chain method (see
opposite). With RS facing, *dc in the
edge of motif 1, ch2, dc in the
corresponding point of motif 3, ch2;
repeat from * a total of 12 times evenly
spaced along the join of these two
motifs. Continue the seam in the same
fashion, joining motifs 2 and 5 next,
and repeating for further motifs in
these two rows.
Fasten off once you have joined the
half motif at the top.
Repeat the process to join the rest of
the motifs, working the seams in the
direction of the black arrows on the
diagram first.
Repeat, starting at the bottom-left
edge of the shawl to work the seams in
the other direction.
BORDER
Join yarn at one of the points of the
shawl and dc evenly all around, working
a picot at each point of every motif.
TO FINISH
Weave in ends.
 WINTER WARDROBE

So s
nug!
WIN T
WRAPER

doUble creaM
Indulge yourself with the sumptuous woven
texture of this wrap by Lisa Richardson for Rowan.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 61
 WINTER WARDROBE

S
ay hello to the must-make winter
accessory: Rowan’s Shivery Wrap.
It’s made in super-soft and chunky
Cocoon yarn, using simple crossed
treble stitches for a gorgeous textured
effect and a double layer of warmth. It’s
also wide enough to wear in all sorts of
ways: draped over your arms like a stole,
wrapped around your shoulders, or just
knotted into a scarf. The styling options
are endless, so have fun with it!

C WRAP
FIRST SECTION
EASY PEASY CHUNKY 7MM Ch51.
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
Foundation row (RS) Skip 4 ch (counts
as 1 tr and 1 ch), *over next 3 ch work
(3tr into third of these 3 ch, ch3, 3tr into
YOU WILL NEED first of these 3 ch), skip 1 ch, 1tr into
QRowan Cocoon (80% merino next ch**, skip 1 ch, rep from * to end,
wool, 20% mohair, 100g/115m), ending last rep at **, turn. [8 patt reps]
This wrap is so versatile, you can even wear it
10 balls of Frost (806) like a cardigan by securing it with a belt.
QA 7mm (US K/10½ or L/11) hook Now work in patt as folls:
For yarn stockists, contact Row 1 Ch3 (counts as tr throughout),
Rowan 01484 681881 3tr into st at base of ch-3, skip 3 tr, *1dc Foundation row (RS) Ch3, skip ch at
www.knitrowan.com into next ch-sp**, skip 1 tr, over next 5 base of ch-3 and next ch, *over next 3
sts work (3tr into fifth of these 5 sts, ch work (3tr into third of these 3 ch,
TENSION ch3, 3tr into first of these 5 sts), skip 1 ch3, 3tr into first of these 3 ch), skip 1
12 sts and 4 rows (2 patt repeats) tr, rep from * to end, ending last rep at ch, 1tr into next ch**, skip 1 ch, rep
to 9.5x9cm (3¾x3½in) using a **, skip 3 tr, 4tr into top of beg ch-3, from * to end, ending last rep at **,
7mm hook turn. turn. [8 patt reps]
Row 2 Ch3, skip tr at base of ch-3 and
MEASUREMENTS next tr, *over next 5 sts work: (3tr into Beg with Row 1, work Rows 1-2 as given
Finished scarf measures fifth of these 5 sts, ch3, 3tr into first of for First Section until work measures
39x200cm (15¼x78¾in) these 5 sts), skip 1 tr**, 1dc into next 100cm from foundation chain.
ch-sp, skip 1 tr, rep from * to end, Fasten off and weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS ending last rep at **, 1tr into top of beg
For a full list, see page 130. ch-3, turn. Block gently.

Rows 1-2 form pattern. SIDE EDGINGS (BOTH ALIKE)

This elegant wrap
designed by Lisa
Richardson is from
Rowan’s Knitting &
Crochet Magazine
Number 58. To find your
nearest stockist, visit
www.knitrowan.com or call 01484 681881.
Repeat these two rows until work With RS facing, rejoin yarn to corner of
measures 100cm. either long side edge. Ch1 (does not
Fasten off. count as st), work one row of dc evenly
into row ends, stopping at next corner.
SECOND SECTION Fasten off.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to ch at base
of last st of Foundation Row of First Repeat above process along the other
Section and work into foundation chain long side edge.
as follows: Fasten off and weave in ends.

62 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 WINTER WARDROBE

So s
EASY mart!
-H
STYL OOK
E

raSpberRy bereT
Lucy Croft’s simple but super-cool hat is the
ultimate accessory – and so quick to make!

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 63

EASY PEASY ARAN 5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QSublime Natural Aran
(100% wool, 50g/100m),
2 balls of Dilly (423)
QA 5mm (US H/8) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Sublime 01924 369666
www.sublimeyarns.com
TENSION
Rounds 1-4 measure 8cm (3¼in)
in diameter
MEASUREMENTS
Hat measures 27cm (10½in) in
diameter
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO MAKE A HALF TREBLE
1 To make a half treble
crochet stitch, work to where
you want the htr and then
wind the yarn round the
hook (yrh).
64 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
G
ive any outfit a certain
handmade je ne sais quoi with
Lucy Croft’s easy-peasy beret,
which is cosy and stylish. The simple hat
pattern is worked with half treble
stitches in a spiral, making it the perfect
fun and achievable project for
NOTES
The pattern is worked using the
amigurumi method. Work stitches
continuously in a spiral without closing
off each round with a slip stitch. It may
help to use a stitch marker in the first
stitch of each round, moving it up as
you work.
C BERET
Ch4, ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 Ch2 (counts as htr), 5htr into
ring. [6 htr]
Round 2 2htr into each htr around.
[12 htr]
Round 3 Repeat Round 2. [24 htr]
Round 4 *Htr in next st, 2htr in next st;
repeat from * around. [36 htr]
Round 5 *Htr in next 2 sts, 2htr in next
st; repeat from * around. [48 htr]
Round 6 *Htr in next st, 2htr in next st,
htr in next 2 sts; repeat from * around.
[60 htr]
Round 7 *Htr in next 4 sts, 2htr in next
st; repeat from * around. [72 htr]
Round 8 *Htr in next 3 sts, 2htr in next
st, htr in next 2 sts; repeat from *
around. [84 htr]
Round 9 *2htr in next st, htr in next 6
sts; repeat from * around. [96 htr]
Round 10 *Htr in next 4 sts, 2htr in next
st, htr in next 3 sts; repeat from *
2 Insert the hook under the 3 Pull the yarn through the
top two loops of the next stitch only (3 loops on hook).
stitch in the previous row.
Wrap yarn around the hook
again (yrh).
This classic beret is worked in a simple spiral.
Keep your tension even for a smooth finish.
around. [108 htr]
Round 11 *2htr in next st, htr in next 8
sts; repeat from * around. [120 htr]
Round 12 *Htr in next 5 sts, 2htr in next
st, htr in next 4 sts; repeat from *
around. [132 htr]
Round 13 *2htr in next st, htr in next 10
sts; repeat from * around. [144 htr]
Round 14 *Htr2tog, htr in next 4 sts;
repeat from * around. [120 htr]
Round 15 *Htr in next 4 sts, htr2tog, htr
in next 4 sts; repeat from * around.
[108 htr]
Round 16 *Htr2tog, htr in next 7 sts;
repeat from * around. [96 htr]
Round 17 *Htr2tog, htr in next 2 sts;
repeat from * around. [72 htr]
Rounds 18-19 Dc in each st around.
Round 20 Dc in each st around, ss to
first dc to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
4 Yarn round hook again, pull
the yarn through all 3 loops.
You’ve made a half treble
crochet. Continue working
htr into next and following
sts to the end of the row.
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 WINTER WARDROBE

So c
h
WINT ic!
E
GLAM R

frIend Or fauX
Super-glamorous and unbelievably soft, this stole
by Nicky Hale is the height of winter luxury.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 67
 WINTER WARDROBE

F
or vintage-inspired glamour,
you can’t go wrong with this
wonderfully simple furry stole.
“I’ve always admired the vintage stoles
worn by stars of the silver screen,” says
designer Nicky Hale. “The design is
easy, using just simple double crochet
stitches increased and decreased to
create the shape. The beauty of this
gorgeous yarn is that it does all the work
for you and sits so well, it’s hard to tell The fur yarn will obscure your work a little
that it’s a crochet piece.” bit so try to feel your stitches as you work.

C STOLE not count as st), dc into the next 22 dc,

Ch81.
EASY PEASY DK 9MM Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
the hook, dc into each ch to end, turn.
[80 dc]
Rows 2-4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
YOU WILL NEED
into each ch to end, turn.
QLouisa Harding Luzia
Row 5-7 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
(50g/39m, 80% viscose, 20%
not count as st), dc into the next dc and
nylon), 4 balls of Golden (10)
in each dc across to the end, turn.
QA 9mm (US M/13) hook
[Decreasing by 2 dc each row]
For yarn stockists, contact
Row 8 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
Designer Yarns 01535 664222
not count as st), dc into the next 25 dc,
www.designeryarns.uk.com
*(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next
4 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc; repeat
MEASUREMENTS
from *, dc into the next 25 dc, turn.
Length 170cm (67in)
[78 dc]
Row 9 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
TENSION
not count as st), dc into the next dc and
8 sts and 9 rows measures
in each dc across to end, turn. [76 dc]
10x10cm (4x4in) over double
Row 10 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
crochet using a 9mm hook
not count as a st), dc into the next 23
dc, *(2dc into the next dc, dc into the
ABBREVIATIONS next 5 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc*,
For a full list, see page 130. dc into the next 2 dc; repeat from * to
*, dc into the next 23 dc, turn. [80 dc]
Row 11 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
*(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next
6 dc) twice, 2dc into the next dc*, dc
into the next 4 dc; repeat from * to *,
dc into the next 22 dc, turn. [84 dc]
Rows 12-13 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1
(does not count as st), dc into each dc
to the end, turn.
Row 14 Ss into the first 3 dc, ch1 (does
not count as st), dc into the next 18 dc,
*(2dc into the next dc, dc into the next
dc) 6 times*, 2dc into the next dc, dc
into the next 4 dc, 2dc into the next dc,
dc into the next 5 dc, 2dc into the next
dc, dc into the next 4 dc; repeat from *
to *, 2dc into the next dc, dc into the
next 18 dc, turn. [93 dc]
Row 15-19 Ss into the first 3 dc, ch1
(does not count as st), dc into each dc
to the end, turn. [Decreasing by 3 dc
each row]
Row 20 Ss into the first 2 dc, ch1 (does
not count as st), dc into the next dc and
each dc across to the last 2 dc.
Fasten off, leaving the last 2 dc
unworked. [74 dc]
Weave in ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK CHAINS

6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Hold the hook and yarn end
in your right hand, and the
working yarn in your left hand.
Move the hook under and over
the yarn to wrap it around
anti-clockwise.
2 Pull the hook towards the
slip knot, catching the yarn in
the hook, and pull it through
the slip knot loop. This forms
your first chain (ch) stitch. Rep
steps 1 and 2 to form a chain.
3 A row of chains looks like
this. Hold the chain with your
right hand near the hook, to
keep the tension. Keep going
until you have the number of
chains stated on your pattern.
4 Each chain or loop counts as
one stitch. Don’t count your
slip knot or the loop on the
hook (the ‘working loop’).
Ensure the chain is not twisted
and that the front is facing you.

68 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 WINTER WARDROBE

So f
FEST un!
NOVE IVE
LTY

figgY puDding
Get any Scrooge into the festive mood with
Becca Parker’s cute Christmas pudding hat.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 69

EASY PEASY 4PLY 3MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QDROPS Baby Merino (100%
wool, 50g/175m), 1 ball of each:
Red (16), Vibrant Green (31),
Off White (02)
QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
QA plain beanie hat
QSewing needle and thread
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse 01926 882818
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Christmas pudding topper
measures approx 37cm (14½in)
circumference
Holly leaves measure 8cm (3in)
long
ABBREVIATIONS
Leaf Point (Dc, ch4, ss into first
ch, dc) into st or sp as indicated
For a full list, see page 130.
70 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
D
ressing up in silly outfits is an
essential part of festive fun, no
matter what your age. So what
could be more fun than a hat that makes
you look like a Christmas pudding?
Becca Parker’s novelty hat
embellishment is easy to make and is
sure to bring a smile to everyone’s face.
The topper includes seemingly random
droplets for an authentic ‘drizzled
cream’ look – finished off with a sprig
holly. This really is one accessory that
looks good enough to eat!
NOTES
The Cream Topper and Berries are
worked using the amigurumi method
– work in a continuous spiral without
closing off each round with a ss. You
may find it helpful to place a marker in
the first st of each round and move it
up as you work.
C CREAM TOPPER
With Off White, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into ring. [6 dc]
Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [12 dc]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [18 dc]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [24 dc]
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [30 dc]
Round 6 (4dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [36 dc]
Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [42 dc]
Round 8 (6dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [48 dc]
Round 9 (7dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [54 dc]
Round 10 (8dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [60 dc]
Round 11 (9dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [66 dc]
Round 12 (10dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times
around. [72 dc]
Do not fasten off.
CREAM DROPLETS
The droplets of cream are worked one
by one, back and forth in rows, as part
of the final round.
When you rejoin the yarn to work
Droplet 2 and all subsequent Droplets,
the first dc you are instructed to work
will be worked in the same stitch as the
last stitch on the end of the row of the
previous droplet.
DROPLET 1
Working in next 5 sts only: *dc in each
of next 5 dc, turn, ch1 (does not count
as st); repeat from * until droplet
measures 3cm long.
Next row 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 2
With RS facing, rejoin yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just worked.
Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc
in same st, ss in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in
next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc,
dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc]
Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 2cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc into second of
3 dc, ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 3
With RS facing, rejoin yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each
of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in each
of next 4 sts, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc,
dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc]
Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 4cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr into third of 5
dc, ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 4
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next
st, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 6
dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 7 dc,
2dc in next dc, ss in side of last droplet,
turn. [9 dc]
Next row 2dc in each of next 2 dc, 7dc,
turn. [11 dc]
Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 11 dc,
ss in side of last droplet, turn.
Next row Dc in each of next 11 dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 11 dc,
ss in side of last droplet, turn.
Next row Ss in each of next 4 dc, 2dc
in next dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn.
[8 dc]
 WINTER WARDROBE
Working in next 7 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 7 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 4cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 9ttr in fourth of 7
dc, ss to final dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 5
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next 2
dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 2
dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc,
dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc]
Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 3cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc in second of 3
dc, ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 6
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next
st, ss in next 2 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in
each of next 3 dc, turn.
Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 2cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc,
ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 7
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, dc in next
st, ss in each of next 3 dc, 2dc in next
st, dc in each of next 4 dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next st, skip 1dc,
dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc]
Next row Ch1, dc in each of next 5 dc,
turn.
Next row Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc, ss to
last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 8
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in next 2
dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each of next 4
dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip 1dc,
dc in each of next 4 dc, turn. [5 dc]
Working in next 5 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 5 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 4cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 6tr in third of 5 dc,
ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
DROPLET 9
With RS facing, join yarn in st at Try not to squash the berries when sewing
bottom-left edge of droplet just them on – they should look plump and juicy.
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each
of next 3 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each
of next 6 dc, turn.
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip next
dc, dc in each of next 6 dc, turn. [7 dc]
Working in next 7 sts only: *Ch1, dc in
each of next 7 dc, turn; repeat from *
until droplet measures 1cm ending with
a WS row.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 9tr in fourth of 7
dc, ss to last dc.
Fasten off.
If the whole pudding is too much, just make a
DROPLET 10 few simple holly leaves to decorate your hat.
With RS facing, join yarn in st at
bottom-left edge of droplet just
worked. Ch1, dc in same st, ss in each Point in next dc, ss in next 2 dc, Leaf
of next 3 dc, 2dc in next st, dc in each Point in next ch-2 sp, ss in next 2 dc,
of next 2 dc, turn. This should leave Leaf Point in next dc, dc in next htr, ss
1 st remaining between this droplet in next htr, Leaf Point in next tr, dc in
and the first. next tr, ss in next tr, dc in next htr, Leaf
Next row Ch1, dc in next dc, skip next Point in next htr, dc in next dc, ss in
dc, dc in each of next 2 dc, turn. [3 dc] next 2 dc, ss in next ch-2 sp, ch4, (skip
Working in next 3 sts only: *Ch1, dc in first ch, dc in each of next 3 ch) working
each of next 3 dc, turn; repeat from * back along ch-4, ss to ch-2 sp.
until droplet measures 5cm ending with Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
a WS row. sewing up.
Next row (RS) Ch1, 5dc in second of
3dc, ss to last dc. BERRY (MAKE 3)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Using Red, make a magic loop.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st),
HOLLY LEAF (MAKE 3) 5dc into ring.
Using Vibrant Green, ch14. Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [10 dc]
Round 1 Starting in second ch from Rounds 3-4 1dc in each dc around.
hook, dc in each of next 3 ch, htr in Round 5 (Dc2tog) 5 times around. [5 dc]
each of next 2 ch, tr in each of next 3 Round 6 (Dc2tog) twice, 1dc.
ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, dc in each Fasten off, leaving a long tail for
of next 3 ch, ch2, rotate to work into sewing up.
other side of foundation ch: dc in each
of next 3 ch, htr in each of next 2 ch, tr TO MAKE UP
in each of next 3 ch, htr into each of Using the needle and thread, carefully
next 2 ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, ch2, sew the cream topper to the top of the
ss into first dc. [16 sts and 2 ch-2 sps] hat.
Round 2 Ss into next dc, dc in next dc, Arrange the leaves and berries on the
Leaf Point in next htr, dc in next htr, ss top of the hat. Once you’re happy with
in next tr, dc in next tr, Leaf Point in the placement, sew them in position
next tr, ss in next htr, dc in next htr, Leaf using a needle and the long tails.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 71
 WINTER WARDROBE

So p
r
SEAS etty!
ON
CARD AL
I

crAnberRy lacE
Fran Morgan’s stylish and cosy cardigan is a
must-have for the Christmas party season.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 73
 WINTER WARDROBE

M
ade for yourself or someone
special, our festive cardigan
will transform anyone into the
perfect Christmas hostess. Cut high at
the waist, it’s a wonderful little cover-up
to wear over a dress or just a plain top.
It’s the little details you’ll love though:
the rib at the cuffs and hem, and the lacy
pattern that runs around the yoke and
down each front. Yuletide bliss.
NOTES
Cardigan is worked top down in one
piece, dividing at base of armholes for
TAKE ON A ARAN 4MM Sleeves and Back/Front. If you prefer a
CHALLENGE WEIGHT HOOK
looser waist fit, work with either less
dec or no dec, adjusting accordingly so
the stitch count for Border is a multiple
YOU WILL NEED of 12 sts plus 5. Stitch patts you need
QWest Yorkshire Spinners Aire are written out below. Length stated is
Valley Aran (75% British wool, from shoulder to hem (without top rib).
25% nylon, 100g/200m), Red
(549), see table for yarn MOSS STITCH PATTERN
quantities and measurements Foundation row (Dc in next st, ch1,
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook skip next st) repeat to end, turn.
Q6 buttons Row 1 Dc in every ch-sp, ch1 above
For yarn stockists, contact every dc, skipping that dc, unless
WYS 01535 664500 stated otherwise.
www.wyspinners.com Row 1 sets pattern.
TENSION Increasing in Moss Stitch Patt
20sts and 16 rows to measure (Dc, ch1, dc, ch1) in ch-sp to work one
10x10cm (4x4in) over moss st patt inc. Each inc worked increases by 2 sts.
using a 4mm hook or size
required to achieve tension Decreasing in Moss Stitch Patt
(Dc, ch1) in next ch-sp, skip next ch-sp,
ABBREVIATIONS dc in next ch-sp. Each decrease worked
For a full list, see page 130. decreases by 2 sts.
BORDER PATTERN
Worked over a multiple of 12 + 5 sts.
Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in first st, *ch3, skip
each of next 3 sts, (dc in next st, ch1,
skip next st) 4 times, dc in next st; rep
from * to last 4 sts, ch3, skip next 3 sts,
dc in last st, turn.
Row 2 Ch1, dc in first st, *(dc, ch1, dc)
in next ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts, dc
in next ch-sp, ch1, skip next st, dc in
next ch-sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts; rep
from * to last 4 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next
ch-3 sp, dc in last st, turn.
Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, *ch1, dc in
next ch-sp, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in next
ch-3 sp, ch3, skip next 3 sts, (dc, ch1,
dc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * to last 4
sts, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, dc in last
st, turn.
Row 4 Ch1, dc in first st, *dc in next
ch-sp, ch1, dc in next ch-sp, ch3, skip
next 3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp,
ch3, skip next 3 sts; rep from * to last 4
sts, dc in next ch-sp, ch1, dc in next
ch-sp, dc in last st, turn.
Row 5 Ch1, dc in first st, *ch3, skip next
3 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch1,
dc in next ch-sp, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in
next ch-3 sp; rep from * to last 4 sts,
ch3, dc in last st, turn.
Rows 2-5 set pattern.
C BODY
RIB
Ch113 (121: 139).
Foundation row Tr in third ch from
hook and in each ch to end, turn.

SIZE (UK DRESS) 8-10 12-14 16-18

cm 81-86 91-97 102-107
TO FIT BUST
b

in 32-34 36-38 40-42

cm 86 94 107
c ACTUAL BUST
in 33½ 36¾ 42
a
FRONT & BACK cm 67 77 87
WAIST
a: 43 (47: 53.5)cm, 16¾ (18½: 21)in in 26¼ 30¼ 34¼
b: 34 (35: 36)cm, 13¼ (13¾: 14¼)in cm 34 35 36
LENGTH
c: 42cm, 16¼in in 13¼ 13¾ 14¼
cm 42 42 42
SLEEVE LENGTH
in 16¼ 16¼ 16¼
YARN 100g balls 5 5 6

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply
follow the relevant column.

74 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 WINTER WARDROBE
[112 (120: 138) sts]
Row 1 (RS) Ch2 (counts as st for Rib
section), *FPtr around each of next 2
sts, BPtr around each of next 2 sts; rep
from * to last 3 sts, 1FPtr around each
of next 2 sts, tr in last st, turn.
Row 2 Ch2, *BPtr around each of next
2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts;
rep from * to last 3 sts, BPtr around
each of next 2 sts, tr in beg ch-2, turn.
Rows 3-4 Rep Rows 1-2 once more.
YOKE
Row 5 Ch1 (does not count as first st
throughout), 1dc (2dc: 2dc) in first st, dc
in each st to end, turn. [112 (121: 139) sts]
Row 6 (Inc row) Ch1, dc in next st, (2dc
in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts)
repeat to end, turn. [149 (161: 185) sts]
Rows 7-12 Work Rows 1-5 of Border
Patt, then rep Row 2 of Border Patt.
Row 13 (Inc Row) Work 10 sts as for the
beg of Row 3 of Border Patt, work the
Foundation Row of Moss Stitch Patt
beg with a dc to last 10 sts, increasing
24 (26: 30) times evenly over these
Moss sts, work the last 10 sts of Row 3
of Border Patt, turn. [Inc by 48 (52: 60)
sts, total st count of 197 (213: 245) sts]
Row 14 Work 10 sts as for the beg of
correct Border Patt row, work central
stitches as for Row 1 of Moss Stitch
Patt, work the last 10 sts as for the end
of the correct Border Patt row, turn.
Cont working 10 sts in Border Patt at
beg and end of each row, keeping Patt
correct, and working the centre sts by
repeating Row 1 of Moss Stitch Patt:
Work 6 (7: 8) more rows as the last row.
Next row (Inc row) Work 10 sts in
Border Patt, work 33 (35:40) inc evenly
along Moss St centre, ending with 10
sts in Border Patt. [Inc by 66 (70: 80)
sts, total st count of 263 (283: 325) sts]
Work 6 (7: 8) plain rows (as Row 14).
DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK
Next row (WS) Work 10 sts in Border
Patt, 29 (32: 38) sts in Moss St, ch8 (10:
10) for underarm, skip 54 (58: 66) sts for
first sleeve, Moss St 77 (83: 97) for
Back, ch8 (10: 10) for underarm, skip 54
(58: 66) sts for second sleeve, Moss St
29 (32: 38) sts, work 10 sts in Border
Patt. [171 (187: 213) working sts]
Next row Work in Border Patt as set
over first 10 and last 10 sts, and Moss
St in each remaining st and chain. Fold
work flat and place a stitch marker in
the ch-sp closest to each side fold, at
the centre of each underam.
Work 4 more rows in pattern as set.
WAIST DECREASES
Next row (Dec row) Work in pattern as
set up to first marker, decreasing by
skipping marked ch-sp as explained in
Moss Stitch Patt Notes. Move marker
up to second ch-sp of this dec. Work in
patt up to second marker and dec as
before, moving marker up to first ch-sp
of this dec, work in patt to end, turn.
[167 (183: 209) sts]
Next row Work in patt as set without
shaping, moving markers up.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 (5: 6) more
times. [151 (163: 185) sts]
Work 9 (7: 5) rows without shaping.
Next row Work in patt as set with 1 (1:
0) decreases placed centrally in the
Moss St section. [149 (161: 185) sts]
If you are adjusting the waist, your sts
need to be a multiple of 12 +5 at this
point. Work Rows 1-5 of Border Pattern.
Next row Work in patt as set (using
Foundation Row of Moss St Patt) with 7
(3: 5) dec placed evenly across the
Moss St section. [135 (155: 175) sts]
RIB
Work Rows 1-3 of Rib Patt. You’ll need
to adjust to an even number of sts for
first row, so dec one st by skipping one
st at the beginning of the next row.
[134 (154: 174) sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
SLEEVES
Work out which sts of the underarm ch
need to have a dc worked into them in
order for the Moss Stitch patt around
the Sleeve to remain correct. Rejoin
yarn in most central of those underarm
sts with RS facing ready to work in
rounds. Do not close off each round
with a ss, but continue working in a
spiral. Use a st marker in the first st of
each round, moving it up as you work.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), dc in first st and continue in Moss st
across underam chain, skipped Sleeve
sts and underam ch at end of round.
Once you’ve worked last ch1 of round,
work an extra dc in same st as first dc
of round. This is to make total number
of Sleeve sts an odd number, which is
required in order to work Moss Stitch in
the round. [63 (69: 77) sts]
Round 2 Ch1 (this is first st of Moss St
of round, so mark this st), dc in next
ch-sp, cont working Moss St around.
Rounds 3-11 Continue working in Moss
St in the round.
Round 12 (Dec row) Continuing in
Moss St, work a dec at the beg and end
of the round. [59 (65: 77) sts]
Work a Dec row on every following 12th
row, 4 times more. [42 (48: 56) sts]
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
in each st and ch around, ss in next st
to smooth edge.
RIB
Rounds 1-4 Ch2 (counts as st), *FPtr
around each of next 2 sts, BPtr around
each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 3
sts, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, tr
in last st, ss to top of beg ch-2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
BUTTON BAND
Rejoin yarn with RS facing at top corner
of Left Front. Work 60 (62: 64)dc evenly
down Left Front.
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st),
*dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from *
to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn.
Repeat the last row 5 more times.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
BUTTONHOLE BAND
Rejoin yarn with RS facing at bottom
corner of Right Front. Work 60 (62: 64)
dc evenly up Right Front.
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st),
*dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from *
to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn.
Repeat the last row twice more.
Next row (buttonhole row) Ch1 (does
not count as st), work 2 (3: 2) sts in
Moss St beg with a dc, dc in next st,
ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next st (buttonhole
made), *5 (5: 6) sts in Moss St, dc in
next st, ch3, skip 3 sts, dc in next st; rep
from * 4 more times, Moss St to last 2
sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn.
Next row Ch1 (does not count as st),
*dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st; rep from *
to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, turn.
Repeat last row.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
Sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Block to measurements.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 75
ruBy slIpperS
Treat your tootsies to a pair of magical
socks designed by Sara Huntington.
 WINTER WARDROBE

IMPROVE DK 3MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QDebbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino
(55% wool, 33% microfibre,
12% cashmere, 50g/125m),
2 balls of Red (34)
1 ball of Ecru (101)
QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
QTwo small ribbon bows
(optional)
QStitch markers
For yarn stockists, contact
Designer Yarns 01535 664222
www.designeryarns.uk.com
TENSION
21 stitches and 23 rows to
measure 10x10cm (4x4in) over
double crochet worked in the
round with a 3mm hook
MEASUREMENTS
See table
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
T
hese slipper socks are something
special. They look like a pair of
Mary-Jane-style ballet slippers
worn with frilly socks – that’s two unique
elements combined in one clever make.
The pretty pair is finished off with a
couple of dainty bows. They’re fun and
feminine, and great fun for Christmas,
so get yourself some soft baby
cashmerino yarn and start those
continuous double crochet rounds!
NOTES
These socks are worked in the round
for the toe, back and forth for the Foot
and Heel sections, and then in the
round again for the Leg section.
C SOCKS (MAKE 2)
TOE
Work this section in the round without
closing off each round with a ss.
With Red, ch12 (13: 14).
Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook, dc in the next 10 (11: 12) sts,
marking the last stitch with a marker.
Working along the other side of the
foundation chain, dc in the same st as
the marker, dc in each remaining st,
marking the last st with a marker.
[22 (24: 26) dc]
Continue as follows, moving markers up
on each round as you work:
Round 2 2dc in the first st, dc in each st
up to st before marker, 2dc in the next
st, 1dc in marked st, 2dc in the next st,
dc in each st up to st before marker,
2dc in the next st, 1dc in marked st.
[26 (28: 30) dc]
Round 3 Dc in each st around.
Rounds 4-9 Repeat Rounds 2-3 three
times more. [38 (40: 42) dc]
Round 10 Repeat Round 2.
[42 (44: 46) dc]
Retaining only the marker in the last st
of the round, continue working in the
round on these 42 (44: 46) sts until the
work measures 6.5 (7: 7.5) cm from the
foundation chain.
FOOT
This section of the sock covers the main
body of the foot over the sole and the
sides of the foot. It is worked back and
forth in rows.
Flatten the toe and identify the central
7 (8: 9) sts on the top of the work.
This will become the instep gap on the
top of the foot, which will later be filled
in with Ecru.
Mark these sts with st markers.
You will now work back and forth in
rows on the 35 (36: 37) rem sts, leaving
the central 7 (8: 9) sts unworked.
Dc to the first marked st of the central
sts, turn.
Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), ss into first st, dc to
marker on the other side of the marked
central sts, turn. [34 (35: 36) dc]
Remove markers.
Row 2 (RS) Ch1, ss in first st, dc in each
remaining st to end, turn.
[33 (34: 35) dc]
Rows 3-4 Repeat Row 2.
[31 (32: 33) sts]
Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.

Small Medium Large

UK SIZES 3-4 5-6 7-8
cm 23.5 24.5 25.5
TO FIT LENGTH
in 9¼ 9½ 10
TO FIT FOOT cm 21 22 23
CIRCUMFERENCE in 8¼ 8½ 9
cm 22.5 23.5 24.5
ACTUAL LENGTH
in 8¾ 9¼ 9½

ACTUAL FOOT cm 20 21 22
CIRCUMFERENCE in 7¾ 8¼ 8½

To make this pattern easier to follow, we’ve colour-coded the sizing instructions – simply
follow the relevant column.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 77

Repeat Row 5 until work measures a
total of 16.5 (17.5: 18.5) cm from the
foundation chain, ending on a WS row.
Rotate your work so you are able to
work down the side of the instep gap.
With WS facing, work 1 row of dc down
the side of the instep gap, working 1dc
into the end of each row worked in the
Foot section; work 1dc into each of the
7 (8: 9) sts at the bottom and 1dc into
the end of each row on the other side
of the instep gap, turn.
Next row (RS) Ch1, ss into each dc
along the inside of the instep gap.
Fasten off.
INSTEP
This section covers the top of the foot
and is worked back and forth in rows.
Using Ecru, attach the yarn to the
right-hand corner ss of the 7 (8: 9)
bottom stitches.
Working into the slip stitches only:
Row 1 (RS) Dc in each of the 7 (8: 9)
bottom stitches, turn. [7 (8: 9) dc]
Row 2 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in each st, 1dc into the
first ss from the instep gap on the RH
side of the work, turn. [8 (9: 10) dc]
Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in each of 8 (9: 10) dc,
skip one ss on the left-hand side of the
work, dc into the next ss above, turn.
[9 (10: 11) dc]
Row 4 Ch1, skip the first dc, dc in each
st to end, skip one ss on the side, dc
into the next ss above, turn.
[9 (10: 11) dc]
Repeat Row 4, ending with a RS row,
until there are 3 ss remaining at the
top-right side of the instep gap.
To make the ‘strap’ of the shoe, change
to Red on the last step of the last st and
repeat Row 4 for a further 2 rows.
You should now have reached the top
of the sock formed in the Foot section,
do not turn or fasten off.
Next round (RS) Work one complete
round of dc on the 31 (32: 33) sts of the
Foot and each of the 9 (10: 11) dc at the
top of the instep gap, working an
additional dc in the ‘seam’ at each side
of the instep gap, giving a total of 42
(44: 46) dc.
Flatten the sock so that the foundation
chain is flat and the instep is on the
78 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
WINTER WARDROBE
centre top. Identify the 21 (22: 23) sts
which make up the Front of the sock,
and the 21 (22: 23) sts which make up
the Back. Place a stitch marker in the
first and last sts of the Back and
continue to work a dc in each st up to
and including the last st of the Back,
turn, do not fasten off.
HEEL
This section forms the ‘cup’ of the heel
and is worked back and forth in rows on
the 21 (22: 23) sts of the Back of the The upper edge of the sock has a subtle frill
made up of dc and half treble stitches.
Sock.
HEEL FLAP
Row 1 (WS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in each st up to the first
st (marked) of the Back, turn, leaving
the marked st unworked.
[20 (21: 22) sts]
Row 2 (RS) Ch1, dc in each st leaving
the last st unworked, turn.
[19 (20: 21) sts]
Rows 3-10 Repeat Row 2.
[11 (12: 13) sts]
On each of the following 10 rows, you
These toe-up socks are crocheted in both
will pick up 1 stitch from the outside rows and rounds to achieve this shape.
edge of the heel flap already worked:
Row 11 (WS) Ch1, dc in each st, dc in
unworked dc from row below, ss in row
end of dc just worked, turn. crochet until Leg measures 6cm (or
[12 (13: 14) dc] required length).
Row 12 Skip ss, dc in the next 12 (13: 14) FRILL
dc, dc in unworked dc from row below, Next round *(1dc, 1htr, 1dc) in the next
ss in row end of dc just worked, turn. st, ss into the next st; repeat from *
Rows 13-20 Repeat Row 12, working around.
one additional st on each side of the Fasten off.
heel flap until there are a total of 21
(22: 23) dc, do not turn or fasten off at TO FINISH
the end of Row 20. Weave in ends and press.
Sew a ribbon bow to the front of the
LEG sock, if desired.
This section is worked in the round.
The next st to be worked will be the
first st of the Front of the sock.
Remove any existing markers and place
a marker in the first st of the Front to
mark the first st of the round and move
it up on each round as you work.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in each st across the
Front of the sock, and each st of the
Heel, changing to Ecru on the last yrh
of the last st of the Heel. [42 (44: 46) sts]
Following rounds (RS) Using Ecru,
continue working in rounds in double
 DECORATIONS

So b
ri
WAR ght!
WELC M
OME

Spell it ouT
Celebrate your family space with DMC’s
fun and festive alphabet hanging.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 79
 DECORATIONS
S
pell out your favourite place in
yarn! This sweet hanging is made
in double crochet, so it’s a great
IMPROVE DK 3MM project for both beginners and
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK intermediate crocheters. This 100%
cotton 4ply yarn from DMC is super
soft to craft with and gives a lovely
YOU WILL NEED matt finish. We’ve used classic shades
QDMC Natura Just Cotton of red and green, but as there are 60
(100% cotton, 50g/155m), colours of Natura Just Cotton, you can
1 ball of each: easily change them to match your décor.
Yarn A Green Valley (N14)
Yarn B Passion (N23) C HANGING
Yarn C Chartreuse (N48) BACKGROUND PANEL
QA 3mm (US C/2-D/3) hook With Yarn A, ch27.
QTapestry needle Row 1 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in
For yarn stockists, contact next 25 ch, turn. [26 sts]
DMC 0116 275 4000 Rows 2-30 Ch1 (does not count as st),
www.dmccreative.co.uk 1dc in each dc, turn.
MEASUREMENTS EDGING
Each square measures approx Continue working in Yarn A.
16x16cm (6¼x6¼in) Row 1 Ch1 (does not count as st), 2dc in
next dc, 1dc in next 24 dc, 4dc in next dc,
ABBREVIATIONS working in row ends, miss 1st row, (1dc in
For a full list, see page 130. next 5 rows, miss next row) 4 times, 1dc
in next 4 dc, miss next row, working
along other side of starting ch in unused
This festive decoration is loops, 4dc in next ch, 1dc in next 24 ch,
from DMC. To find more 4dc in next ch, working in row ends, miss
crochet patterns and see the 1st row, (1dc in next 5 rows, miss next row)
full range of DMC yarn (and 4 times, 1dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in last row.
to find a stockist) visit www. Change to Yarn B or C for border (to
dmccreative.co.uk or call match letter), ss to 1st ch to join round,
0116 275 4000. do not turn. [112 sts]
80 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st),
working in back loops only, 2dc in next
dc, (1dc in next 26 dc, 2dc in each of next
2 dc) 3 times, 1dc in next 26 dc, 2dc in
next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [120 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next
29 dc) 4 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [124 sts].
Row 4 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next
30 dc) 4 times, ss to 1st ch. [128 sts]
Fasten off and sew in ends.
LETTER H
Row 1 With Yarn B, ch33, 1dc in 2nd ch
from hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 10ch, 1dc in
2nd ch from hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc
in next 14 ch, 10ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from
hook, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc in next 9ch,
turn. [53ch and 50dc]
Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16
dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other
side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch,
3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 7 ch, dc3tog,
1dc in next 10 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 7
dc, 3dc in next dc, working along other
side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch,
3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 8 ch, 1dc in
next 8 dc, 3dc in next dc, working along
other side of ch in unused loops, miss 1st
ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 7 ch,
dc3tog, 1dc in next 10 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in
next 7 ch, 3dc in next ch, ss to 1st ch,
turn. [108 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, *3dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 7 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next
8 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 7 dc, 3dc in

next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc,
1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, ** 1dc
in next 2 dc, rep from * to **, 1dc in next
dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [116 sts]
Fasten off and sew in ends.
LETTER O
With Yarn C, ch36, taking care not to
twist, ss tog to form a loop.
Row 1 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5
dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [42 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, 1dc in next 2 dc, (2dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 6 dc) 5 times, 2dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 4 dc, ss to 1st ch, turn.
[48 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 7
dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch, turn. [54 sts]
Row 4 Ch1, 1dc in next 3 dc, (2dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 8 dc) 5 times, 2dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, ss to 1st ch, turn.
[60 sts]
Row 5 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, dc in next 9
dc) 6 times, ss to 1st ch. [66 sts]
Fasten off and sew in ends.
LETTER M
Row 1 With Yarn B, ch54, 1dc in 2nd ch
from hook, dc in next 16 ch, 2dc in each
of next 2 ch, 1dc in next 6 ch, dc3tog,
1dc in next 6 ch, 2dc in each of next 2 ch,
1dc in next 17 ch, turn. (54ch and 55dc).
Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16
dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2 dc, 2dc
in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc, dc3tog, 1dc
in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 2
DECORATIONS
dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc
in next dc, working along other side of
ch in unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in
next ch, 1dc in next 14 ch, dc5tog, 1dc in
next 6 ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 6 ch,
dc5tog, dc in next 14 ch, 3dc in next ch,
ss to 1st ch, turn. [114 sts]
Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 13 dc, dc5tog, 1dc in next
5 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc,
dc5tog, 1dc in next 13 dc, 3dc in next dc,
1dc in next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in
next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 3
dc, 2dc in next dc, 1dc in next 5 dc,
dc3tog, 1dc in next 5 dc, 2dc in next dc,
1dc in next 3 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in
next 18 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next dc,
ss to 1st ch, turn. [120 sts]
Fasten off and sew in ends.
LETTER E
Row 1 With Yarn C, ch41, 1dc in 2nd ch
from hook, dc in next 11 ch, 3dc in next
dc, 1dc in next 14 ch, 3dc in next dc, 1dc
in next 12 ch, turn. [41ch and 44dc]
Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, dc in next 12
dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 16 dc, 3dc
in next dc, 1dc in next 12 dc, 3dc in next
dc, working along other side of ch in
unused loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch,
1dc in next 10 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 6
ch, 5ch, 1dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1dc in
next 3 ch, 1dc in next 6 ch, dc3tog, 1dc in
next 10 ch, 3dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch,
turn. [5ch and 96dc]
Row 3 Ch1, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next dc,
1dc in next 10 dc, dc3tog, 1dc in next 4 dc,
dc3tog, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in next dc,
working along other side of ch in unused
loops, miss 1st ch, 3dc in next ch, 1dc in
next ch, dc3tog, 1dc in next 4 dc, dc3tog,
1dc in next 10 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in
next 2 dc, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 14 dc,
3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 18 dc, 3dc in
next dc, 1dc in next 14 dc, 3dc in next dc,
1dc in next dc, ss to 1st ch, turn. [108 sts]
Fasten off and sew in ends.
TO MAKE UP
Lay your finished green squares on a flat
surface and carefully position each letter
centrally on a square.
Using the same coloured yarn as each
letter, carefully sew in place with small neat
stitches (it might help to pin or tack them
on first). Try to make sure the stitches do
not show on the reverse of the squares.
Using Yarn B, make a long enough ch to
hang your hanging.
With RS facing, dc a row from the top right
hand corner of the E square working into
the back loops for each dc.
Continue across the top straight edge.
Then work 7ch for the space.
Repeat for letters M, O and H squares.
Make another ch the same length as the
first for hanging. Turn.
Continue to work dc across the chain and
the other dc.
Fasten off and sew in ends.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 81
BrighT bauBles
Tracey Todhunter’s bauble wreath is
a welcome splash of winter colour.
 DECORATIONS

EASY PEASY DK 3MM

TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK

YOU WILL NEED

QRico Essentials Cotton DK
(100% cotton, 50g/130m) in:
Banana (063), Light Blue (027),
Pistachio (086), Fuchsia (014),
Pumpkin (087), Red (02)
QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
Q17cm polystyrene half wreath
(available from craft stores)
Q1.5m grosgrain ribbon in any
colour
Q30cm narrow ribbon in any
colour
QTextile glue or glue gun
QHollow fibre toy stuffing
QTapestry needle
QLocking stitch marker
(optional)
For yarn stockists, contact
Rico www.rico-design.co.uk

MEASUREMENTS
Each ball is approximately 8cm Pile your crocheted balls onto your wreath base so that the base is hidden. For more festive
diameter, finished size depends cheer, add a bell to the hanging ribbon so it jungles when your door is opened and closed.
on your choice of wreath

T
ABBREVIATIONS is the season to be creative and
For a full list, see page 130. we can’t get enough of the vivid
shades that make up this jolly
wreath. You can really go to town with
colour on this project. Brights will offer
wow factor, while pastels will provide a
subtler, but equally pretty effect. While
tension is not essential, ensure you’re
using the right hook by making a test
bauble first – you don’t want the stuffing
to poke through and spoil the finish.
Round 2 2dc in each dc around. Pull yarn
tail tight and secure end. [12 dc]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next dc) 6 times.
[18 dc]
Rounds 5-6 1dc in each dc around.
Round 7 (1dc, dc2tog) 6 times. [12 dc]
Round 8 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [6 dc]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Stuff bauble and, using a tapestry needle,
draw yarn tail through remaining stitches
and draw tight to close.

NOTES
Make at least 7 balls in each colour.
The pattern is worked in the amigurumi
method. Work in a continuous spiral
without closing off the round with a ss.
It may help to use a stitch marker in the
first stitch of each round, moving it up
as you work.
C WREATH
BALL (MAKE 42 OR MORE)
With chosen yarn, make a magic loop.
Round 1 6dc into loop. [6 dc]
TO MAKE UP
Weave in all ends.
Wrap wide ribbon around the
polystyrene wreath, ensuring no
polystyrene is left exposed.
Wrap narrow ribbon around wreath to
form a hanging loop.
Glue each bauble to the wreath in
a random assortment of colours.
Remember to leave the back uncovered
so the wreath will hang flat on a wall.
You may need to make a few extra
baubles to achieve your desired finish.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 83
Super stocKing
Who can resist this gorgeous stocking by
Julie Mnemosyne and Jenny Phin?

IMPROVE DK 4MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT
YOU WILL NEED
Q DROPS Karisma (100% wool,
50g/100m), 3 balls Off White
(01), plus Yarns A, B and C:
2 balls of each Dark Mustard
(52), Blue Turquoise (60), Forest
Green (47)
For joining motifs: 1 ball Red (18)
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse
0800 505 3300
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
C HEXAGON MOTIF (MAKE 16)
TENSION
A hexagon motif measures
18x16cm (7x6¼in)
MEASUREMENTS
54x44cm (21¼x17¼in)
ABBREVIATIONS
Spiked dc Work a dc st into the
st of the previous round and pull
yarn up to the level of the
current round when pulling the
yarn through the stitch
Hdtr Half double treble crochet
Yrh twice, insert hook into stitch,
yrh, pull up a loop, yrh, pull yarn
through 2 loops on hook, yrh,
pull through 3 remaining loops
PL Petal Loop See Diagram A on
p86. Ch3, ss into same st as first
dc of Round 5, ss into space
between dc and first tr of petal
on Round 4, ss across the same
dc into the space on the other
side of the dc before the last tr
of the petal on Round 4, ss into
same st as dc above last tr of
same petal, ch3, which will lie
over the first ch-3 of the Petal
Loop
For a full list, see page 130.
DECORATIONS
O
ne of the most important
Christmas decorations is surely
a bright and sturdy stocking for
Santa to leave your presents in. And this
colourful creation by Jenny Phin using a
motif by Julie Mnemosyne is sure to
catch Father Christmas’s eye! You can
mix and match the colours as you want,
and because the motifs are made
separately this is a great project to make
on the go – keep a motif in your bag for
instant crocheting and you’ll soon have
enough for this mantlepiece accessory!
The motifs are all made separately and then
NOTES joined with a dc seam at the end.
Yarns A, B and C are colours of your
choice from the shades listed.
The final 2 rounds of each motif are
always Off White.
With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join
into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), (dc into ring, ch3) 6 times, ss to first
dc to join. [6 dc, 6 ch-3 sp]
Round 2 Ss into first ch-3 sp, ch2
(counts as first htr), (tr, ch1, tr, htr) into
same ch-3 sp, (htr, tr, ch1, tr, htr) in next
The motif is so pretty you’ll want to use it in
ch-3 sp) 5 times, ss to top of beg ch-2. lots of makes. Why not try some coasters?
Fasten off Yarn A. [24 sts, 6 ch-1 sp]
Round 3 Join Yarn B with a spiked dc
into 1 of the dc sts from Round 1. *Ch2,
(dc, ch4, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch2, spiked Round 7 Join Off White with a ss in a
dc into next dc in Round 1; rep from * 5 ch-2 sp. Ch1 (does not count as st),
more times, omitting last spiked dc on *(dc, ch2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 4
final repeat, ss to first spiked dc. [18 dc, sts, htr in next st, tr in next st, ch1, skip
6 ch-4 sp, 12 ch-2 sp] PL, tr in next tr, htr in next st, dc in next
Round 4 Ch1 (counts as first dc), *(3tr, 4 sts; repeat from * 5 more times, ss to
hdtr, dtr, hdtr, 3tr) into ch-4 sp (petal first dc.
made), dc into spiked dc; rep from * 5 Round 8 Ch1 (counts as first dc), dc in
more times, omitting last dc on final next st, *3dc in next ch-2 sp, dc in next
repeat, ss to beg ch-1. [6 petals, 6 dc] 2 sts, htr in next 2 sts, tr in next 3 sts, tr
Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), *dc in ch-1 sp, tr in next 3 sts, htr in next 2
in each of first 2 tr of petal, htr in each sts, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * 5 more
of next 2 sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in dtr, htr in times, omitting last dc on final repeat,
each of next 2 sts, dc in each of next 2 ss to first dc.
sts, skip next st; rep from * 5 more Fasten off.
times, ss to first dc.
Fasten off Yarn B. [72 sts, 6 ch-2 sp] DIAMOND MOTIF (MAKE 1)
Round 6 Join Yarn C in ch-2 sp with a With Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join
ss, ch3 to count as first tr. *Tr in each of into a ring.
next 4 sts, PL, skip all dc sts, tr in each Round 1 *Ch2 (counts as first htr), tr,
of next 2 htr and next 2 tr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) hdtr, dtr, hdtr, tr, htr in ring; repeat from
in ch-2 sp; rep from * 5 more times, * replacing beg ch-2 with htr, ss to top
omitting last tr on final repeat, ss to top of beg ch-2. [14 sts]
of beg ch-3. Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as st),
Fasten off Yarn C. [72 sts, 6 PLs, *2dc, htr, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in dtr, htr, 2dc;
6 ch-2 sp] rep from *, ss to first dc.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 85

Fasten off Yarn A. [20 sts, 2 ch-2 sp]
Round 3 Join Yarn B in the first st of the
round. Ch7, dc in the second ch from
the hook, (dc, 2htr, 2tr) working back
down the chain, ch3, spiked dc in the
first st from Round 1, ch3, skip the first
dc of Round 2, *tr in each of the next 4
sts, (2tr, ch2, 2tr) in ch-2 sp, tr in each of
the next 4 sts, ch3, spiked dc in the
next htr from Round 1**, ch7, 6ss back
down chain starting with the second ch
from the hook, ss in the same st as the
last spiked dc, move the ch7 just
worked to the left of the hook to work
back up the stitches of this chain: ch3,
tr in each of the next 2 ch, 2htr, 2dc
(reached top of ch-7), ch3, skip 1 ch at
the top, working back down the chain:
2dc, 2htr, 2tr (reached bottom of ch-7),
ch3, spiked dc in the next htr of Round
1, ch3, skip dc from Round 2; repeat
from * to **, ch3, working up the sts of
the first ch-7: 2tr, 2htr, 2dc, ch3, ss to
the first dc. Fasten off Yarn B.
Round 4 Join Off White in the first st of
the round. Ch1 (does not count as st),
DIAGRAM A
Key
Slip st (ss)
Half Double treble crochet (dtr)
Chain (ch)
Chain over chain (ch) Double treble crochet (dtr)
Double crochet (dc)
Half treble crochet (htr) Spiked double crochet
Treble crochet (tr)
Direction of workin
86 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
*4dc, htr, tr, ch1, skip top of both ch-3,
tr in next tr, htr, 4dc**, (dc, ch2, dc) in
ch-2 sp; repeat from * to **, (dc, ch3,
dc) in ch-3 sp; repeat all from *, ss to
first dc.
Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc,
*2htr, 3tr, tr in ch-1 sp, 3tr, 2htr, 2dc,
4dc in ch-sp, 2dc: repeat from * 3 more
times omitting the last 2 dc on the final
repeat, ss to the first dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
JOINING MOTIFS
Refer to Diagram B below for arranging
the motifs. Join the motifs with Red and
a dc seam as follows:
Holding 2 motifs WS together, dc
through both layers, working through
the front loop only of the motif held at
the back and the the back loop only of
the motif held at the front for each
stitch.
Rejoin Red to the top opening edge,
ch3 (counts as tr) tr in each st around,
ss to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off. Turn down the points of the top-most motifs
to create a pretty cuff for the stocking.
DIAGRAM B
FRONT AND BACK
Key
6
Fold line of motif
Hexagon motif
Diamond motif
4
g
 DECORATIONS

IMPROVE
YOUR SKILLS
Show off your
embroidery by
making a set of
glitzy winter
coasters.

TwinkLe, twinklE
Add sparkle to the Christmas morning tea round
with these embroidered coasters by Becky Skuse.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 87

IMPROVE DK 3.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QElla Rae Cozy Soft (75%
acrylic, 25% superwash wool,
100g/195m), 1 ball of Pale Blue
(38) (each coaster uses only 15g
of this yarn)
QAnchor Artiste Metallic No 5
(80% viscose, 20% polyester,
25g/100m), 1 ball of
Turquoise (312)
QDMC Lumina Metallic Thread
No 3 (60% viscose, 40%
metalized polyester Sinflex,
20g/150m), 1 ball of Silver (L168)
QA 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
QTapestry needle (large eye and
sharp point)
For yarn stockists, contact
www.intercontinentalyarns.
co.uk, www.makeitcoats.com
or www.dmccreative.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Finished coaster measures
approx 11.5cm (4½in) square
TENSION
Tension is not important for this
project – just make sure your
coaster is square by working
more or less than the 23 rows
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
88 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
W
hether your Christmas
morning breakfast involves
scrambled eggs, bacon and
Bucks Fizz or a mince pie warm from the
oven and a cup of tea, a coaster is
essential to take care of any accidental
spills. Once you’ve hooked this pretty
pair, turn to our handy technical feature
on page 89 and learn how to embellish
your crocheted fabric with a few simple
stitches. In fact, you can give all sorts of
makes the star treatment with a little
embroidery – just let your imagination Coaster 2 lets you practise working running
and your thread run free! stitch, chain stitch and Lazy Daisy stitch.
NOTES
When working embroidery with metallic
thread, cut lengths no longer than
50cm (19½in) – any longer than this and
the thread tends to get tangled up.
Weave each end into the back of the
crocheted coaster to secure it before
working the embroidery. The dc fabric
forms a natural grid of gaps to work the
embroidery stitches into, but you may
need to split stitches in places to get
true straight lines.
Making Coaster 1 involves using blanket
stitch, Lazy Daisy stitch and couching.
C COASTER (MAKE 2)
With 3.5mm hook and Pale Blue, ch21.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and technique (just work one couching
in each ch to end, turn. [20 dc] stitch at the centre of each star).
Rows 2-23 Ch1 (does not count as a Work a small star elsewhere on the
stitch), dc in each dc to end, turn. coaster, 2 dc tall and 2 dc wide, using
Row 24 Work as Row 2, but do not the Lazy Daisy instructions given in the
turn. Rotate piece to work dc edging technical feature.
around coaster, working 3 dc in each Weave in all the ends.
corner space, 1 dc into each row end
and 1 dc into each chain of foundation COASTER 2 EMBROIDERY
chain. Ss to first dc of Row 24. Use lengths of Turquoise thread
Fasten off and weave in ends. throughout.
Make more coasters as desired. Work running stitch around the edge of
the coaster, 1 dc wide and 1 dc in from
COASTER 1 EMBROIDERY the edge, using the instructions given
Use lengths of Silver thread throughout. in the technical feature.
Work blanket stitch around the edge of
the coaster, 1 dc wide and 1 dc tall, Work a large star at the centre of the
using the instructions given in the coaster, 12 dc tall and 8 dc wide, using
technical feature on page 89. You will the chain stitch instructions given in the
need to use more than one length of technical feature on page 89. For a neat
thread, knotting the ends together at look, start each line of the star from the
the back to secure them. centre, working outwards. Work two
medium stars elsewhere on the coaster,
Work a large star at the centre of the 4 dc tall and 4 dc wide, using the Lazy
coaster, 12 dc tall and 8 dc wide, using Daisy stitch technique. Work two small
the couching instructions given in the stars elsewhere on the coaster, 2 dc tall
technical feature. Work two medium and 2 dc wide, using the Lazy Daisy
stars elsewhere on the coaster, 5 dc tall technique.
and 3 dc wide, using the couching Weave in all the ends.
 hoW do i adD emBroideRy?
Workshop Grab a hook and some yarn – we’ll show you how easy
it is to add embroidery to your crochet fabrics.

What Sort of StiTches CouLd i Work?

We’ll show you how to work these five embroidery stitches.

Embroidery is a great way

to embellish your crochet
fabric. With a few simple
stitches you can create
colour and texture in your
makes well after you’ve
fastened off. You can use
embroidery to create RUNNING STITCH BLANKET STITCH
interesting patterns on a
plain background, or to
add a small detail to a
pocket, collar or bag. On
page 87 you’ll find our
pretty Christmas coasters,
and if you need any tips on
how to work the stitches,
the next few pages are full
of expert advice! CHAIN STITCH LAZY DAISY COUCHING

how do i Work RunNing StiTcH?

Master this stitch and you can create various lines and effects.
Running stitch is a very handy
technique to learn, both for
embroidery and seaming
together your crochet fabrics.
It’s often used for outlining
other motifs for appliqué, or
forming straight lines. A B

To start off, weave the thread C D

or yarn into the back of the

crochet fabric so it’s secure.
Step 1 Bring the needle 01 02
through from the back to the
right side of the fabric. Push the
needle into the fabric one stitch
to the right 01 .
Step 2 *Bring the needle
from the back to the front one
stitch to the right and then push
the needle into the fabric one
stitch to the right 02 .
Step 3 Repeat from * to form
a line 03 . You can work the
technique in any direction on 03
your fabric.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 89
how do i Work a ChaIn StiTcH?
A quick and easy way to create shapes and motifs.
Chain stitch is a versatile stitch
that’s great for creating motifs,
outlines and decorations. You
may need to split the double
crochet stitches so use a sharper
A
tapestry needle.
To start off, weave the thread
B
or yarn into the back of the
crochet fabric so it’s secure.
Step 1 Bring the needle to
the front of the fabric. *Insert 01 02
the needle back into the fabric,
in the same hole or very close to
it – pull gently and leave a small
loop of your thread or yarn 01 .
Step 2 Bring the needle to
the front one stitch to the right,
making sure the needle passes
through the loop you made 02 .
Step 3 Repeat from * to make
more loops 03 .
Step 4 Continue working in
any direction. After the final
loop, make a small stitch over 03 04
the loop to secure it 04 .

how do i Work a Lazy DaiSy StiTcH?

A nifty way to form little flower or star shapes in your fabric.

A dainty Lazy Daisy is a pretty,

decorative stitch that’s great for
adding a floral look. It’s worked
in a similar way to chain stitches.
To start off, weave the thread
or yarn into the back of the
crochet fabric so it’s secure.
Step 1 Bring the needle to
the front of the fabric. *Insert
the needle back into same hole
and pull gently to form a loop 01 . 01 02
Step 2 Bring the needle to
the front, two stitches up,
making sure the needle passes
through the loop. Take the
needle over the loop and then
insert the needle back down
into the same hole 02 .
Step 3 You will have secured
the loop with a small stitch 03 .
Step 4 Bring the needle to
the front at the original hole and
repeat from * working to the
left, right and downwards to 03 04
make three more loops 04 .

90 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 workshop

how do i Work BlaNket StiTcH?

A stitch used regularly for edging fabrics and motifs.
One of the most useful stitches
for crocheters, blanket stitch can
be used anywhere on your
fabric, but is traditionally used at
the edge. Once mastered, you
can use it to form loops at the
edge of any fabric, which you
can then crochet into.
To start off, weave the thread
or yarn into the back of the
crochet fabric so it’s secure. 02
Step 1 Bring the needle to
the front of the fabric. *Insert
the needle one stitch down and
one stitch to the right. Bring the
needle out of the fabric one
stitch up, making sure you keep
the thread or yarn underneath
the needle tip 01 .
Step 2 Repeat from *, pulling
the thread gently to create a
half-square stitch 02 .
Step 3 After the final stitch,
make a small stitch over the last 01 03
loop to secure it 03 .

how do i Work CouChing?

A nifty way to form lines and shapes in your fabric.

This is a brilliant way to create

lines and lettering, or to form
shapes and motifs. You can use
one or more strands of thread or
yarn to achieve different effects.
To start off, weave your
working thread or yarn (the one
making small stitches) into the
back of the fabric so it’s secure.
Step 1 Lay your couching
thread across the front of the 01 02
fabric, in the shape you want 01 .
Step 2 Thread the needle
with your working thread (we
used a contrasting colour so you
can see it). Bring the needle to
the front of the fabric, near your
couching thread and make a
small stitch over it 02 .
Written by Becky Skuse

Step 3 This will work to secure

the couching thread 03 .
Step 4 Make more small
stitches, evenly spaced, to hold
the couching thread in the 03 04
shape you want 04 .

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 91
 DECORATIONS

PreseNt peRfect
Display gifts in style with Rebecca Reid and Sarah
Huntington’s unique parcel-wrap and tree skirt.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 93

C CIRCLE WITH POINTS
EASY-PEASY DK 3.5MM
TO MAKE CHUNKY 6MM
YOU WILL NEED
FOR THE GIFT WRAP
Q DROPS Karisma (100%
superwash wool, 50g/100m)
1 ball of each: Off White (01),
Blue Turquoise (60), Red (18)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse
0800 505 3300
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk
FOR THE TREE SKIRT
Q Wendy Supreme Luxury
Cotton Chunky (100% cotton,
100g/83m),
5 balls of White (1420)
Q A 6mm (US J/10) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Gift wrap: each motif measures
Tree skirt: approx 9.5cm (3¾in)
80cm (31½in) diameter
ABBREVIATIONS
dc3tog (insert hook in next st,
yrh and draw a loop through) 3
times, yrh and draw through all
loops on hook
For a full list, see page 130.
94 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
quIrky Gift Wrap
Make your parcels look pretty with
Rebecca Reid’s sweet embellishments
worked in chic, Scandi shades.
NOTES
Each shape uses two or three colours,
Yarns A, B and C, from the listed shades.
Using Yarn A, ch6, ss to first ch to join
into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 15tr into
ring, ss into third ch of beginning ch-3. [16 tr]
Round 2 Ch4 (counts as tr, ch1) (1tr into
next tr, ch1) 15 times, ss into third ch of
beginning ch-4.
Fasten off. [16 tr, 16 ch-1 sp]
Join Yarn B in any tr of previous round.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), (2tr into next
ch-1 sp, 1 tr into next tr) 15 times, 2tr into
next ch-sp, ss into third ch of beginning
ch-3. [48 tr]
(If you want to make a three-colour
version of this motif then join in Yarn C
here – if not, continue with Yarn B)
Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc,
*ch5, ss into fifth ch from hook, skip next
2tr, 1dc into next tr, ch2, skip next 2tr, 1dc
into next tr, ch3, skip next 2 tr, 1dc into
next tr, ch2, skip next 2 tr**, 1dc into next
tr; repeat from * twice and from * to **
once again, ss into first dc. [4 ‘points’ and
12 ch-sp]
Round 5 Ss into next ch-5 sp, ch3 (counts
as tr), (4tr, ch3, 5tr) into same sp *1dc into
next ch-2 sp, 5tr into next ch-3 sp, 1dc into
next ch-2 sp**, (5tr, ch3, 5tr) into next ch-5
sp; repeat from * twice and from * to **
once more, ss into top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
DOILY CIRCLE
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 10tr into
loop, ss to top of beginning ch-3 to join.
Fasten off. [11 tr]
Join Yarn B in any tr of previous round.
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into st at
base of ch, 2tr into each tr of previous
round, ss to top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off. [22 tr]
Join Yarn A in any tr of previous round.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), 1tr into st at
base of ch, 2tr into each tr of previous
round, ss to top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off. [44 tr]
Join Yarn C in any tr of previous round.
Round 4 Ss into first tr, skip 1 tr, *4tr in
next tr, skip 1 tr, ss into next tr, skip 1 tr;
repeat from * 10 times, ss to first ss.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
HEART
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch2, 3dtr, 4tr, 1dtr, 4tr, 3dtr,
ch2, ss into loop. [15 sts, 2 ch-2 sp]
Round 2 1dc in ch-sp, 2htr in next st, 3htr
in next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in each of
next 3 sts, 2htr in next st, (1htr, 1tr, 1htr) in
next st, 2htr in next st, 1htr in each of next
3 sts, 2htr in next st, 3htr in next st, 2htr in
next st, (1dc, ss) in ch-sp. [29 sts]
Round 3 1dc in each of next 2 sts, (1dc in
next st, 2dc in next st) 3 times, 1dc in each
of next 6 sts, 3dc in next st, 1dc in each of
next 6 sts, (2dc in next st, 1dc in next st)
three times, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, ss
to first dc.
Fasten off. [37 sts]
Join Yarn B in top of heart.
Round 4 1dc in next dc, 2tr in each of
next 8 dc, 1tr in each of next 9dc, 3tr in dc
at lower point of heart, 1tr in each of next
9dc, 2tr in each of next 8 dc, 1dc in last dc
at top of heart, ss to first dc. Fasten off
and weave in ends.
SNOWFLAKE
Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st),
6dc into ring, ss to first dc. [6 dc]
Round 2 Ch5 (counts as tr and ch2), 1tr in
st at base of ch, *(1tr, ch2, 1tr) in next dc;
rep from * 4 times more, ss into third ch of
beg ch-5.
Fasten off. [12 tr, 6 ch-2 sp]
Join Yarn B in any ch-2 sp of previous
round.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (1tr, ch3,
2tr) in same ch-2 sp, *(2tr, ch3, 2tr) in next
ch-2 sp; repeat from * 4 times more, ss
into third ch of beginning ch-5. Fasten
off. [24 tr, 6 ch-3 sp]
Join Yarn A in any ch-3 sp of previous round.
Round 4 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch3,
3tr, ch1) in first ch-3 sp, *(3tr, ch3, 3tr, ch1)
in next ch-3 sp; repeat from * 4 times
more, ss into top of beg ch-3.
Fasten off. [36 tr, 6 ch-3 sp, 6 ch-1 sp]
Join Yarn B in any ch-3 sp of previous
round.
Round 5 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (3tr, ch3,
4tr) in first ch-3 sp, *1tr in next ch-1 sp,
(4tr, ch3, 4tr) in next ch-3 sp; repeat from *
4 times more, 1tr in next ch-1 sp, ss into
top of beginning ch-3.

Fasten off and weave in ends.
ROUND FLOWER
Using Yarn A, ch10, ss to first ch to join
into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr), 23tr, ss
into top of beginning ch-3. [24 tr]
Round 2 Ch5 (counts as dc and ch4), skip
2 tr, 1dc into next tr (ch4, skip 2 tr, 1dc
into next tr) 6 times, ch4, ss into first ch of
beginning ch-5.
Fasten off. [8 dc, 8 ch-4 sp]
Join Yarn B in any ch-4 sp of previous
round.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as tr), (1tr, ch2, 2tr,
ch1) into same ch-sp, *(2tr, ch2, 2tr, ch1)
into next ch-4 sp; repeat from * 6 times
more, ss into top of beginning ch-3. [32 tr,
8 ch-2 sp, 8 ch-1 sp]
Round 4 Ss into next tr and first ch-2 sp,
ch3 (counts as tr), 6tr into same ch-sp, 1dc
into ch-1 sp, (7tr into next ch-2 sp, 1dc
into next ch-1 sp) 7 times, ss into top of
beginning ch-3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
DIAMOND
Using Yarn A, ch11.
Row 1 (RS) 1dc in second ch from hook
and in each ch across, turn. [10 dc]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc in
each dc across, turn.
Rows 3-9 As Row 2.
Fasten off at the end of Row 9, turn.
Join Yarn B in first st of next row, ready to
work around the outside of the shape.
EDGING
Round 1 Ch3 (counts as tr), 2tr in st at
base of ch, 8tr, 3tr in last dc (corner made),
8tr evenly spaced across row ends of
shape, 3tr in corner stitch, 8tr, 3tr in last
dc, 8tr evenly spaced across row ends of
shape, ss to top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
GRANNY DIAMOND
Using Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to join into
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as first tr), 2tr in
ring, ch2, (3tr in ring, ch2) 3 times, ss into
top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off. [4 3-tr groups, 4 ch-2 sp]
Join Yarn B in any ch-2 sp of previous
round.
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2,
3tr) in ch-2 sp at base of ch (right side
corner made), ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch2, 1dtr, 2tr)
in next ch-2 sp (top corner made), ch1, (3tr,
ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp (left side corner
DECORATIONS
made), ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch2, 1dtr, 2tr) in next
ch-2 sp (bottom corner made), ch1, ss into
top of beg ch-3.
Fasten off. [4 corner groups, 4 ch-1 sp]
Join Yarn C in ch-2 sp of right corner.
Round 3 Ch3 (counts as first tr), (2tr, ch2,
3tr) in ch-2 sp at base of ch, ch1, 3tr in next
ch-1 sp, ch1, (2tr, 1dtr, ch3, 1dtr, 2tr) in next
ch-2 sp (top corner), ch1, 3tr in next ch-1
sp, ch1, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in next ch-2 sp (left
side), ch1, 3tr in next ch-1 sp, ch1, (2tr, 1dtr,
ch3, 1 dtr, 2tr) in next ch-2 sp (bottom
corner), ch1, 3tr in next ch-2 sp, ch1, ss into
top of beginning ch-3.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
doIly tRee sKirt
Make sure your Christmas tree takes
pride of place with Sara Huntington’s
giant doily-style mat worked in chunky
cotton. It’s like a giant snowflake!
C DOILY
Make a magic loop, ch3 (counts as first tr
throughout), 11 tr into loop. [12 sts]
Round 1 (RS) Ch3, tr into st at base of ch,
2tr into each st around, ss to top of beg
ch-3. [24 sts]
Round 2 Ch1 (does not count as first st
throughout), 1dc, (ch13, skip 3 dc, 1dc
into next dc) 5 times, ch13, ss to first dc.
[6 ch-13 sp, 6 dc]
Round 3 Ss into each of first 2 ch, ch1, dc
into same ch and each of next 4 ch, *3dc
into next ch, dc into each of next 5 ch,
dc3tog over next (ch, dc and ch),
dc into each of next 5 ch; repeat from * 4
times more, 3dc into next ch, dc into each
of next 5 ch, dc into next dc, ss to first dc.
[84 sts]
Round 4 Ch1, skip first dc, *dc into each
of next 5 dc, 3dc into next dc, dc into
each of next 5 dc, dc3tog over next 3 dc;
rep from * 4 times more, dc into each of
next 5 dc, 3dc into next dc, dc into each
of next 6 dc, ss to first dc. [84 sts]
Round 5 As Round 4.
Fasten off.
Round 6 Rejoin yarn to a dc in centre of
any 3-dc group. Ch1, dc into same st,
(ch13, dc into centre dc of next 3-dc
group) 5 times, ch13, ss to first dc.
[6 ch-13 sp, 6 dc]
Round 7 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc in each of
next 13 ch) 6 times, ss to first dc.
[84 dc]
Round 8 Ch1, (2dc in next dc, 6dc) 12
times, ss to first dc. [96 dc]
Round 9 Ch3, (tr into each of next 7 dc,
2tr in next dc) 11 times, tr into each of
next 7 dc, tr in st at base of ch-3, ss to top
of beg ch-3. [108 tr]
Round 10 Ch1, (dc into each of next 8 tr,
2dc in next tr) 12 times, ss in first dc.
[120 dc]
Round 11 Ch1, (dc into each of next 9 dc,
2dc into next dc) 12 times, ss in first dc.
[132 dc]
Round 12 Ch1, dc in same st as ch, (ch15,
skip 10 dc, dc in next dc) 11 times, ch15,
ss in first dc. [12 ch-15 sp, 12 dc]
Round 13 Ss into each of first 2 ch, ch1,
dc into same ch and each of next 5 ch,
*3dc into next ch, dc into each of next 6
ch, dc3tog over next (ch, dc and ch), dc
into each of next 6 ch; repeat from * 10
times more, 3dc into next ch, dc into each
of next 6 ch, dc into next dc, ss to first dc.
[96 dc]
Round 14 Ch1, skip the first dc, *dc into
each of the next 6 dc, 3dc into the next
dc, dc into each of the next 6 dc, dc3tog
over the next 3 dc; repeat from * 10 times
more, dc into the next 6 dc, 3dc into the
next dc, dc into the next 7 dc, ss to the
first dc.
Rounds 15 & 16 As Round 14.
Fasten off at end of Round 16.
Round 17 Rejoin yarn to the centre dc of
any 3-dc group, ch1, dc into the same st,
(ch15, dc in the centre dc of the next 3-dc
group) 11 times, ch15, ss to the first dc.
Round 18 Ch1, (dc in next dc, dc in each
of the next 15 ch) 12 times, ss to the first
dc. [192 dc]
Round 19 Ch1, (2dc in the next dc, dc in
each of the next 15 dc) 12 times, ss to the
first dc. [204 dc]
Round 20 Ch3, (tr in each of the next 16 dc,
2tr in the next dc) 11 times, tr in each of the
next 16 dc, tr in st at base of ch-3, ss to the
top of the beginning ch-3. [216 tr]
Round 21 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 17
tr, 2dc in the next tr) 12 times, ss to the
first dc. [228 dc]
Round 22 Ch3, (tr in each of the next 18
dc, 2tr in the next dc) 11 times, tr in each
of the next 18 dc, tr in the st at the base
of ch-3, ss to the top of the beginning
ch-3. [240 tr]
Round 23 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 19
tr, 2dc in the next tr) 12 times, ss to the
first dc. [252 dc]
Round 24 Ch1, (dc in each of the next 20
dc, 2dc in the next dc) 12 times, ss to the
first dc. [264 dc]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Press with a cool iron over a clean cloth.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 95
Cosy CalendaR
Count down the days with Advent bunting
from Debora Bradley and Tanya Kalyan.

EASY PEASY 4PLY 2¾MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT 3MM
YOU WILL NEED
QDROPS Alpaca (100% alpaca,
50g/167m), 1 ball of each:
Dark Turquoise (2918)
Pink (2921)
Goldenrod (2923)
Red (3620)
Maroon Mix (3650)
Tomato (3900)
Dark Purple (4400)
Dark Olive Mix (7238)
QWendy Luxury Supreme
Cotton 4ply (100% mercerised
cotton, 100g/267m), 1 ball of
Cream (1851)
QA 2¾mm (US C/2) hook
QA 3mm (US D/3) hook
QStitch markers
QTapestry needle
For yarn stockists, contact
Wool Warehouse for DROPS
01926 882818
www.woolwarehouse.co.uk,
and TB Ramsden for Wendy
01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Length of each mitten or
stocking approx 13cm
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
DECORATIONS
S
tart your own family tradition with
a special handmade Advent
calendar. These little stockings
and mittens are easy to crochet, and are
a great on-the-go project to keep in
your handbag. Fill each shape with
sweets or little toys, and let everybody
take a turn at delving into one each day!
NOTE
The main part of the mitten and
stocking is worked in a spiral without
closing off each round, so you may
want to use a stitch marker in the first st
of the round to keep track.
C MITTENS (MAKE 12)
CUFF
The rib for the Cuff is worked back and
forth in rows.
With a 2.75mm hook, ch7.
Row 1 (RS) Dc into back bump of the
second ch from hook and in each
remaining ch, turn. [6 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st), 1dc
bl into each st of row, turn.
Row 3 Rep Row 2, 19 more times.
Fold the rib section in half and line up
the short edges with the hook to the
right.
Ss together through the back loops of
the foundation chain and the stitches of
the last row worked.
Turn rib so ss row is on the inside.
SIMPLE STEP CHAIN STITCH
22 11
Keep the tension, and distance between stitches,
as even as possible so they’re all the same size.
HAND
Change to 3mm hook.
Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st),
work 23dc evenly into the row ends of
the rib, ss to first dc. [23 sts]
Now continue working in a spiral
without closing off each round with
a ss.
Round 2 10dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc,
2dc into next st, 9dc. [25 sts]
Round 3 1dc into each st.
Round 4 11dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc,
2dc into next st, 10dc. [27 sts]
Round 5 1dc into each st.
Round 6 12dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc,
2dc into next st, 11dc. [29 sts]
Round 7 1dc into each st.
Round 8 13dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc,
2dc into next st, 12dc. [31 sts]
Round 9 1dc into each st.
Round 10 14dc, 2dc into next st, 2dc,
2dc into next st, 13dc. [33 sts]
Round 11 12dc, skip the next 10 sts for
thumb, 11dc. [23 sts not including
thumb]
Round 17 1dc into each st around.
[23 sts]
Repeat Round 17 for 8 rounds more.
Next round (6dc, dctog) twice, 5dc,
dc2tog. [20 sts]
Next round (3dc, dc2tog) 4 times.
[16 sts]
Next round 1dc into each st.
Next round (Dc2tog) 8 times. [8 sts]
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using a
A series of loops, chain stitch is
used for the numbers on the
mittens and stockings.
Come out of the fabric at 1, where
you want to begin, and leaving a
loop, go back down again in the
same hole at 1. Bring the needle
out again at 2, keeping the thread
under the needle. Repeat.
Make a small stitch over the last
loop to fix it in place.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 97

yarn needle, thread tail through front
loop of remaining 5 sts and pull tight.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
THUMB
Join yarn to any thumb stitch and
make 12dc around thumb opening.
Next round 1dc into each st.
Repeat last Round 4 times more.
Next round (Dc2tog) 6 times [6 sts]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Using
yarn needle, thread tail through front
loop of remaining 5 sts and pull tight.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
HANGING LOOP
Rejoin yarn to the Cuff with a ss, ch16
and ss to the st at the base of the ch.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
STOCKINGS (MAKE 12)
With a 3mm hook, ch3, join to first ch
with a ss to make a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 8dc in the ring, ss to first dc. [8 sts]
Now continue working in a spiral
without closing off each round with
a ss.
Round 2 2dc in each dc around. [16 sts]
Round 3 2dc in each dc around. [32 sts]
Round 4 1dc in each dc around.
Rounds 5-20 Repeat Round 4.
HEEL FLAP
Now working back and forth in rows:
Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st),
16dc, place a marker in the last of these
sts, turn leaving remaining sts
unworked. [16 sts]
Rows 2-8 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
98 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
in each st to end, turn.
Fold heel flap in half matching row ends
with row ends. Ch1, dc through both
layers of each st of the last row worked
to join. [8 sts]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn in the
marked st from Row 1 of the Heel.
Round 21 Now working in rounds,
continue to work a dc st in each of the Work the numbers by embroidering them on
16 unworked sts from Round 20, then the mitts and stockings in contrasting yarn.
work 18dc evenly around the row ends
of the heel flap to bring you back to the
marked st, ss to first st and remove
marker. [34 sts]
Now continue working in a spiral
without closing off each round with
a ss.
Next round 1dc in each st around.
Repeat last round until whole stocking
meas 13cm or required length. Do not
fasten off.
Ch16, ss to st at base of ch to make a They’re just the right size for a chocolate bar,
hanging loop. a small cracker or a special little gift.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
NUMBERS
Thread a needle with a length of
Wendy Luxury Supreme Cotton and
chain stitch a number on to each mitten
and stocking.
CHAIN
Using a 3mm hook and Wendy Luxury
Supreme Cotton, make a length of
chain to suit where and how you want
to hang the bunting. Fasten off.
Thread the chain through the
hanging loops.
BrancH out
Make Anne Egan’s runner to fit
your festive table, embroidered
with a snowy branch design.

IMPROVE DK 3.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT
YOU WILL NEED
Q King Cole Baby Alpaca DK
(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m),
Yarn A Cranberry (510) (see
Notes for quantities),
Yarn B Fawn (501), 1 ball
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A wide-eyed needle
For yarn stockists, contact
King Cole 01756 703670
www.kingcole.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
27x78cm (10½x30¾in) or make to
fit your table
ABBREVIATIONS
Spiked dc Instead of working the
next dc into the dc on the row
directly below, work the next dc
into the dc one row below that.
For a full list, see page 130.
100 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
C
hristmas dinner is the most
important meal of the year, so
don’t forget to decorate your
dining table when you’re decking the
halls. Made in rows of half treble, this
ruby-red runner, with its embroidered
Scandi-style design, will add a burst of
colour to your festive feasting, and it can
be made as long (or short) as you want it
to be. And once the plates have been
cleared away, your runner can be rolled
up, ready for next year’s festivities! The contrasting trim is added after making
the runner, using a row of double crochet.
NOTES
You can make this table runner as long
as you like to fit your table.
The amount of Yarn A you will need
depends on the desired length of your
table runner. The sample shown uses
four balls of Cranberry, and based on
this sample, one ball will yield
approximately 19cm (7½in) length in
this pattern.
The runner is made in rows of half
treble with contrasting trim added at
each end afterwards. Use the photo as a guide or embroider your
Always join a new yarn ball on the WS. own abstract design in a contrasting shade.
C TABLE RUNNER
Using Yarn A, ch56. of row, ch1 (does not count as st), dc in
Row 1 Dc in second ch from hook and same st, (spiked dc in next st one row
in each ch to end, turn. [55 dc] below, dc in next st) to end. Fasten off.
Row 2 (RS) Ch2 (counts as first htr Repeat the above edging at the other
throughout), htr in each st to end, turn. end of the table runner.
[55 htr]
Repeat Row 2 to desired length, ending TO MAKE UP
on a RS row, then work one more row Weave in all ends.
of dc. Fasten off. Using a wide-eyed needle and Yarn B,
embroider an abstract fir tree pattern
EDGING with straight stitches and backstitch,
With RS facing, join Yarn B at beginning using the photos as a guide.
 an eve
r
jollY hollY
g re en pattern with Lucy Croft’s fest
ive tr
i a ng
o o k les.
H

e t h e s e t r ia ngles
Co mb in
f o r m a l a c y skirt
to se o f
a r o u n d t h e b a
s t re e
your christma

EASY-PEASY DK 3.5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QUK Alpaca Alpaca Baby DK
(80% baby alpaca, 20%
superfine merino, 50g/112m),
Yarn A Grass Green
Yarn B Cherry Red
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
UK Alpaca 01884 243579
www.ukalpaca.com
ABBREVIATIONS
Picot Ch2, ss to the second ch
from the hook
For a full list, see page 130.
102 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
Make a motif
C
hristmas day wouldn’t be the
same without holly, but with this
simple motif you won’t need the
real thing – and it’ll last for years! This
design has loads of creative potential
and is perfect for place mats, bunting, a
tree skirt... the list is endless!
NOTE
When working Round 2, you will be
working up one side of each chain/ss
‘arm’, and then down the other. You will
need to find loops to work into on each
side of this arm, so work into the
remaining loop of the ch when you
work out from the centre, and then into
the ss of the previous round when you
work back towards the centre.
C TRIANGLE MOTIF
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) *Ch11, ss into bump on
reverse of second ch from hook and
bump on reverse of each of next 9 ch;
rep from * twice more. [3 chain ‘arms’]
Round 2 Working out from the centre:
ss to first ch of Round 1, *ss to next ch,
(dc, htr) in next ch, (tr, picot, tr) in next
ch, (htr, dc) in next ch, ss to next ch, dc
in next ch, (htr, picot, htr) in next ch, dc
in next ch, ss to next ch, picot, skip next
ch (this is the ch at the top of the arm,
before the first ss), working back
towards the centre (mirror the stitches
on the other side): ss to next ss, dc in
Half treble crochet (htr)
next ss, (htr, picot, htr) in next ss, dc in
next ss, ss to next ss, (dc, htr) in next ss,
(tr, picot, tr) in next ss, (htr, dc) in next ss,
ss to next 2 ss and first ch on next arm;
repeat from * twice omitting last ss.
Fasten off.
Round 3 Join Yarn B in any picot at the
tip of a holly leaf, ch1 (does not count as
st), dc in same picot, *ch3, dc in next
picot, ch3, (tr in next picot, ch3) twice, dc
in next picot, ch3, (dc, ch3, dc) in picot at
tip of leaf; repeat from * twice more
omitting last dc, ss to first dc to join.
Round 4 Ch3 (counts as tr), *(3tr in ch-3
sp, tr in next st) 5 times, (tr, ch3, tr) into
ch-3 corner sp, tr in next dc; repeat from *
twice more omitting last tr, ss to top of
beg ch-3 to join. Fasten off.
BERRIES (MAKE 1 FOR EACH MOTIF)
With Yarn B, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st),
5dc into loop, ss to first dc to join.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Sew berry to
the centre of the motif using the long tail.
TO MAKE UP
Join motifs using whip stitch.
On the chart, all rounds are read in an
anti-clockwise direction.
Key
Slip st (ss) Treble crochet (tr)
Treble crochet (tr)
Chain (ch)
Double crochet (dc)
Magic loop
Half treble crochet (htr)
Berry
 SprucEd up
Create a festive centrepiece for your dining
table with a forest of tiny trees by Anne Egan.

IMPROVE DK 3.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT
YOU WILL NEED
Q King Cole Baby Alpaca DK
(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: Cranberry (510),
Fawn (501), Grey (502)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q Plastic plant pot, 9cm (3½in)
diameter for Large Tree
Q Tiny clay pot for Small Tree
Q Play clay
Q Polyester toy stuffing
Q Various small buttons
Q Small bamboo cane
For yarn stockists, contact
King Cole 01756 703670
www.kingcole.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
Without stand and pot:
Small Tree measures 11x11cm
(4¼x4¼in)
Large Tree measures 13x15cm
(5x6in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
104 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
W
hat could be more festive
than a Christmas tree? A
whole forest of them, of
course! These dinky potted pines make
the perfect table decorations or, if
you’re decorating a small space, a crafty
alternative to a traditional tree!
NOTES
The trees are made from the top down.
An increase of 1 st is made in the centre
of the row, and 2 sts evenly either side of
the centre, unless specified otherwise.
C LARGE TREE
TREE SIDES (MAKE 2)
Use both Cranberry and Fawn as main
(Yarn A) and contrast (Yarn B) colours.
With Yarn A, ch2.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook.
[1 dc]
Row 2 Ch1, 2dc in next st. [2 dc]
Row 3 Ch1, dc in each st to end.
Row 4 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 1dc in last st.
[3 dc]
Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end.
Row 6 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st,
1dc in last st. [4 dc]
Row 7 Ch1, dc in each st to end.
Row 8 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st,
dc in each st to end. [5 dc]
Row 9 Ch1, dc in each st to end.
Row 10 Ch1, dc in each of next 2 dc, 2dc
in next st, dc in each st to end. [6 dc]
Row 11 Ch1, dc in each st to end.
Row 12 Ch1, dc in each st across, and
increase by one stitch in the centre
stitch, or the stitch as near to the centre
as possible. [7 dc]
Rows 13-23 Repeat Row 12. [17 dc]
Rows 24-26 Ch1, dc in each st up to st
before centre st, 2dc in next st, dc in
centre st, 2dc in next st, dc in each st to
end. [23 dc]
Rows 27-32 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in
next st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in
next st, 1dc in last st. [35 dc]
Fasten off.
POT COVER
With Grey, ch8, ss into first ch to form
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr
throughout), 23tr into ring, ss to top of
beg ch-3. [24 tr]
Round 2 Ch3, 1tr in next st, 2tr in next
st, (tr in each of next 2 sts, 2tr in next st)
around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [32 tr]
Round 3 Working in back loops only:
Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to top of
beg ch-3.
Round 4 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to
top of beg ch-3.
Round 5 Ch3, 1tr in each of next 14 sts,
2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 15 sts,
2tr in last st, ss to top of beg ch-3. [34 tr]
Rounds 6-10 Increase evenly by 2 sts
on each round. [44 tr after Round 10]
Round 11 Ch3, tr in next 8 tr, tr2tog, (tr
in next 9 tr, tr2tog) around, ss to top of
beg ch-3. [40 tr] Fasten off.
SMALL TREE
TREE SIDES (MAKE 2)
With Yarn A, ch2.
Rows 1-23 Work as for Rows 1-23 of
Large Tree Sides. [17 dc]
Rows 24-25 Work as for Row 24 of
Large Tree Sides. [21 dc]
Rows 26-27 Work as for Row 27 of
Large Tree Sides. [25 dc] Fasten off.
POT COVER
With Grey, ch8, ss into first ch to form
a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Work as Round 1 for
Large Tree Pot Cover. [24 tr]
Round 2 Working in back loops only:
Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each
st around, ss to top of beg ch-3.
Round 3 Ch3, tr in each of next 6 sts,
2tr in next st, (1tr in each of next 7 sts,
2tr in next st) twice, ss to top of beg
ch-3. [27 tr]
Rounds 4-7 Increase by 3 sts evenly on
each round. [39 tr]
Round 8 Ch3, tr in each st around, ss to
top of beg ch-3.
Round 9 Ch3, tr in each of next 10 sts,
tr2tog, (tr in each of next 11 tr, tr2tog)
around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 tr]
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP (BOTH TREES)
Weave in ends on WS. Embroider with
Yarn B, and add small buttons, on both
side pieces. Cut the plastic pot to fit
the Pot Cover and slip Cover over pot.
Cut bamboo cane to desired length,
place between the WS of the two Tree
Side pieces and surround with toy
stuffing. With Yarn A, stitch the two
pieces together around the stuffing
and bamboo cane. Place a lump of play
clay in the pot and push the other end
of the ‘trunk’ into it. Top up the pot
with a little toy stuffing.
 Lucky starS
Spruce up your branches with a colourful
crochet garland designed by Anne Egan.

IMPROVE DK 3.5MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT 4MM
YOU WILL NEED
Q DROPS Karisma (100% wool,
50g/100m), 1 ball of each:
Off White (01), Dark Mustard
(52), Blue Turquoise (60) Forest
Green (47), Red (18)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q A 4mm (US G/6) hook
For stockists, contact Garnstudio
www.garnstudio.com
C SOLID STAR
MEASUREMENTS
Solid star: 13cm (5in) diameter
Open star: 12cm (4¾in) diameter
Snowflake 1: 12cm (4¾in)
diameter
Snowflake 2: 14cm (5½in)
diameter
ABBREVIATIONS
htr2tog (Yrh, insert hook in next
st, yrh, pull up loop) twice, yrh,
draw through all loops on hook
dc3tog (insert hook in next st,
yrh, draw a loop through) 3
times, yrh, draw through all
loops on hook
2-tr cluster (Yrh, insert hook in
space/st indicated, yrh, pull up
loop, yrh, draw through 2 loops)
twice, inserting the hook in the
same space/st each time, yrh,
draw through all loops on hook
3-tr cluster As 2-tr cluster, but
work brackets 3 times
For a full list, see page 130.
106 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
F
or most of us, Christmas
decorating means hunting for
boxes of baubles in the loft and
making sure those old faithful fairy
lights still work. If you want to up your
decorating game in time for 25
December then raid your stash for all
that yarn you’ve been saving for a rainy
day and hook it into a handmade
garland! Transforming your tree has
never been so easy. Making these motifs
is addictive, and before you know it
you’ll have hooked a whole stack. And
they’re very versatile! Attach them to a
wreath for a funky alternative to foliage,
hang them from your mantelpiece, or
customise a Christmas jumper with a
scattering of snowflakes!
NOTES
Yarns A and B are colours of your
choice from shades listed. Yarn A is
used for the main star, and Yarn B for
the edging and the points, if you wish.
Make a centre pentagon first, then add
points. Make as many motifs as you
wish for your length of bunting.
CENTRE PENTAGON
With Yarn A and a 3.5mm hook, make a
magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in ring, ch1, (dc and
ch1 count as first htr throughout), 9htr
in ring, ss to top of beg htr. [10 htr]
Round 2 Ch1, dc in ss, ch1, htr in the
same st as the first dc, (htr in the next
htr, 3htr in the next htr) 4 times, htr in
the next htr, htr in the same st as the
first dc, ss to top of the beg htr. [20 htr]
Round 3 Ch1, dc in ss, ch1, htr in same
st as 1st dc, (3htr, 3htr in next htr) 4
times, 3htr, htr in same st as 1st dc, ss
to top of beg htr, do not fasten off.
[30 htr]
FIRST STAR POINT
Row 1 (RS) Ch1, dc in next htr, ch1, 4htr,
turn. [5 htr]
Row 2 Dc in first htr, ch1, htr in each htr
across, turn. [5 htr]
Row 3 Dc in first htr, 2htr, htr2tog, turn.
[3 htr]
Row 4 Dc in htr2tog, ch1, htr in each htr
across, skip last dc, turn. [3 htr]
Row 5 Dc in first htr, htr2tog, turn.
[1 htr]
Row 6 Dc in htr2tog.
Fasten off.
SUBSEQUENT STAR POINTS
Skip the next unworked half treble
from the final round of the central
pentagon, and rejoin yarn so that
the first stitch will be worked in the
central half treble of the 3-htr
group. Follow the instructions for the
point as above, skipping the very first
ch1 of Row 1.
EDGING
With a 4mm hook, join Yarn B just
above the base of one of the points,
ready to work up the point to the tip.
Work 9dc evenly up to the point, ch3,
work 9dc down the other side. At the
base of the point, dc3tog by working
the first part of the st in the base of the
first point, the second part of the st in
the skipped htr from final round of the
central pentagon, and the third part of
the st in the base of next point. Repeat
for each point and ss into first st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
Block, and if you want a stiffer finish
then spray with starch and iron on a
wool setting.
OPEN STAR
CENTRE PENTAGON
With a 4mm hook and Yarn A, ch5 and
ss into the first ch to join into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 10dc into ring, ss into beg dc.
[10 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, dc in ss, ch5 (dc and ch5
count as first tr and ch-3 throughout), tr
in same st as first dc, *ch1, skip 1 dc, (tr,
ch3, tr) in next dc; rep from * 3 more
times, ch1, ss into second ch of beg
ch-5. [10 tr, 5 ch-3 sp, 5 ch-1 sp]
Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st),
*5dc in ch-3 sp, dc in next tr, dc in next
ch-sp, dc in next tr; repeat from * 4
more times, ss into first dc. [40 dc]
POINTS
Change to Yarn B if you wish.
Round 4 Ss in next 2 dc, (ch15, skip 8
dc, ss in next dc) around with last ss in
dc at base of first ch-15. [5 ch-15 sp]

Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as
st), *skip first ch of next ch-15 sp, dc in
top 2 loops of next 7 ch, ch3, dc in
same ch as last dc, dc in top 2 loops of
next 6 ch, skip last ch of this ch-15 sp;
rep from * 4 more times, ss into beg dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
Block, and if you want a stiffer finish,
then spray with starch and iron on a
wool setting.
SNOWFLAKE 1 (16 POINTS)
With a colour of your choice and a
3.5mm hook, ch4, ss into first ch to join
into a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
first st throughout), 8dc into ring, ss
into first dc. [8 dc]
Round 2 Ch2, 2-tr cluster in st at base
of ch, (ch3, 3-tr cluster in next dc) 7
times, ch3, ss in top of 2-tr cluster.
[8 clusters, 8 ch-3 sp]
Round 3 Ch1, dc in top of 2-tr cluster,
ch5, (dc in ch-3 sp, ch5, dc in 3-tr
cluster, ch5) 7 times, dc in ch-3 sp, ch2,
tr in first dc. [16 ch-5 sp, 16 dc]
Round 4 *Ch6, ss in 3rd ch from hook,
ch5, ss in same ss, ch3, ss in same ss,
ch2, ss in next ch-sp; repeat from *
around with final ss worked into top of
last tr of previous round.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
TO FINISH
Block, and if you want a stiffer finish,
then spray with starch and iron on a
wool setting.
SNOWFLAKE 2 (6 POINTS)
With a colour of your choice and a 4mm
DECORATIONS
hook, ch5, ss into first ch to join into a
ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 12dc into ring, ss into first dc.
[12 dc]
Round 2 Ch1, dc in first st, ch6, (counts
as tr and ch4), (skip 1 dc, tr in next dc,
ch4) 5 times, ss into second ch of beg
ch-4. [6 tr, 6 ch-4 sp]
Round 3 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc
in first st, (6dc in ch-4 sp, dc in tr) 5
times, 6dc in ch-4 sp, ss into first dc.
[42 dc] Add a hanging loop and you can make these
Round 4 Ch1 (does not count as st), dc pretty stars into individual tree decorations.
in first dc, *ch4, skip 3 dc, tr in sp
before next dc, ch4, skip 3 dc, dc in
next dc; rep from * 5 more times,
omitting last dc on final repeat, ss into
first dc. [6 tr, 6 dc, 12 ch-4 sp]
Round 5 Ch1 (does not count as st),
*6dc in next ch-4 sp, ch1, tr in next tr,
ch3, ss in tr, ch3, dc in 2nd and 3rd ch
from hook, ss in tr, ch3, ss in tr, ch1, 6dc
in next ch-4 sp; repeat from * 5 more
times, ss into first dc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
These stars can be made using small amounts
TO FINISH of yarn – perfect for hooking on the move!
Block, and if you want a stiffer finish,
then spray with starch and iron on a
wool setting.
TO MAKE UP
With Red, make a length of chain as
long as you need and thread it through
the corner chain spaces of the motifs.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 107
 DECORATIONS

EASY-PEASY DK NO HOOK
TO MAKE WEIGHT NEEDED!

YOU WILL NEED

Q Small amounts of yarn in
assorted colours
Q Double-sided satin ribbons in
assorted colours, each approx
3mm wide and 25cm (9¾in) long
Q 2 gold bells, 1cm (¼in) diameter
per marker
Q Cardboard
Q Fabric scissors
Q Long, large-eyed sewing
needle
For yarn stockists, contact
TB Ramsden 01943 872264
www.tbramsden.co.uk

so quicke!
to mak

W
ho doesn’t love a pompom?
They can be put to an array of
uses at Christmas time, from
bunting to baubles, but our new
favourite project has to be this smart
idea of making glass markers. Pop one
on each guest’s glass at your festive
party and no one will lose their drink!
C HOW TO MAKE A POMPOM
1 Cut out two identical cardboard discs
to the diameter of the intended
pompom. Mark out a smaller circle in
the centre of each disc. This will form a
hole to allow yarn to be passed through.
As a rule of thumb, this circle should be
half the diameter of the outer circle.
Cut the inner circles out.
2 Hold the two cardboard discs
together and start to wind your chosen
yarn round the rings. Cover the ring
entirely until the hole in the centre has
almost disappeared.
3 With fabric scissors, cut through the
yarn between the cardboard discs
round the outer edge. Cut round the
entire circumference, releasing all of
the yarn and revealing the cardboard
discs inside.
let’S parTy!
Make a rainbow of pompoms to
spread festive cheer all around!
4 Tie a spare piece of yarn from your
stash between the discs to secure the
middle of the pompom.
5 Once knotted securely, tear the
cardboard to release the pompom.
6 Finish by trimming the pompom into
a neat ball.
MAKING UP
1 Make as many pompoms in as many
colours as you think you will need, and
cut the corresponding number of
ribbon lengths.
2 Trim the pompoms into neat balls and
thread up a needle with a length of
ribbon. Carefully thread the ribbon
through the centre of the pompom and
remove the ribbon from the needle. Do
this gently to avoid pulling yarn out of
the pompom.
3 Tie a bell securely on to each end of
the ribbon. This will add some festive
cheer and stop the pompom coming
loose. Repeat the above process until
you’ve made enough wine glass
markers to go around.
This project is taken from
20 To Make: Pompom
Christmas by Alistair
Macdonald, published by
Search Press, priced £4.99.
For more information, visit
www.searchpress.com.

108 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

chRistmaS dollS
Add fun to the festivities with Santa’s little
helpers, designed by Becky Garratt.

EASY-PEASY DK 3MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QKing Cole Baby Alpaca DK
(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: Cranberry (510),
Fawn (501), Grey (502)
QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
QPolyester toy stuffing
QWooden beads (25mm
diameter)
QCraft glue
QBlack pen to mark eyes
For yarn stockists, contact
King Cole 01756 703670,
www.kingcole.com
MEASUREMENTS
Each doll measures 10x11cm
(4x4¼in)l
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
110 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
E
nlist the help of these Scandi
dolls to bring some festive cheer
to your house this Christmas.
Whether you choose to have them
circling a table centrepiece or dancing
across your mantlepiece, they’re sure
to bring a smile to your visitors’ faces.
Individual dolls could hold place cards
on your Christmas table, perhaps.
NOTES
Each doll is made using a main colour
for the body and hat (Yarn A), a contrast
colour (Yarn B), and Grey for the Arms
and Boots.
The pattern uses the amigurumi
method, where rounds are worked in
a spiral without closing off each round
with a slip stitch. You may find it helpful
to use a stitch marker in the first st of
each round, moving it up as you work.
C DOLL
HAT (MAKE 1 FOR EACH DOLL)
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 4dc into loop, ss to first dc. [4 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [8 sts]
Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
4 times. [12 sts]
Round 4 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [16 sts]
Round 5 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc
in next st) 4 times. [20 sts]
Rounds 6-8 Dc in each st around.
Change to Yarn B.
Round 9 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
BODY (MAKE 1 FOR EACH DOLL)
Using Yarn A, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 6dc into loop, ss to first dc. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
6 times. [18 sts]
Rounds 4-6 Dc in each st around.
Round 7 (Dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc
in next st) 6 times. [24 sts]
Rounds 8-10 Dc in each st around.
Round 11 (Dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc
in next st) 6 times. [30 sts]
Rounds 12-14 Dc in each st around.
Change to Yarn B.
Round 15 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
ARMS (MAKE 2 FOR EACH DOLL)
Using Grey, make a magic loop.
Little details like the plaited hair and
embroidered dresses make all the difference.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 5dc into loop, ss to first dc. [5 sts]
Round 2 2dc into each st around.
[10 sts]
Rounds 3-4 Dc in each st around.
Change to Yarn B.
Round 5 Dc in each st around.
Change to Yarn A.
Rounds 6-10 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
BOOTS (MAKE 2 FOR EACH DOLL)
Using Grey, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
st), 4dc into loop, ss to first dc. [4 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [8 sts]
Round 3 (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st)
4 times. [12 sts]
Rounds 4-7 Dc in each st around.
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Stitch a heart shape onto the front of
the body using Yarn B.
Plait some strands of Yarn B and sew
into the Hat.
Attach the Hat to the bead as follows:
stitch the back of the Hat to the Body
piece to hold in position, then glue the
top of the bead to the inside of the Hat
and the top of the Body.
Mark eyes on the bead using black pen.
Sew Arms onto Body.
Keeping the Body relatively flat, add a
little stuffing and sew across the
bottom with the Boots in place so they
are attached at the same time.
Join each doll to the next doll with a
few stitches through their hands.
wiNter Time
Ring the changes with a
Swiss-inspired cuckoo
clock by Becky Garratt.

IMPROVE ARAN 4MM
YOUR SKILLS WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
QRico Creative Cotton Aran
(100% cotton, 50g/85m),
1 ball of each: Nougat (056),
Nature (060), Tangerine (076),
Red (005), Cherry (065), Light
Pistachio (044), Light Green
(040), Green (049);
2 balls of Brown (058)
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook
QToy stuffing
QSmall amount of black felt
For yarn stockists, contact
Rico www.rico-design.co.uk
MEASUREMENTS
30cm (11¾in) wide by 40cm
(15¾in) tall without pine cone
weights, 65cm (25½in) tall with
pine cone weights
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
112 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
H
ook a Christmassy wall-hanging
that will make you smile year
after year! This fun design is all
about the details – there are icicles,
snow-dusted evergreens, a red-
breasted robin and even Father
Christmas himself. For a real
showstopper, how about swapping that
crochet clock face for a real one?
C MAIN PIECE
Using Brown, ch45.
Row 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, turn.
[44 sts]
Rows 2-44 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn.
Rows 45-61 Ch1, skip next st, dc in
each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn.
[Decrease by 2 sts on each row, 10 sts
after Row 61]
Rows 62-64 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn. Fasten off.
BOTTOM BORDER
Join Cherry to bottom-right corner of
Main Piece.
Row 1 (RS) 5htr in next st, skip next st,
dc in next st, (skip next st, 5htr in next
st, skip next st, dc in next st) 10 times.
Fasten off.
ROOF SIDES (MAKE 2)
Using Cherry, ch8.
Row 1 (RS) 2dc in 2nd ch from hook,
4dc, dc2tog, turn. [7 sts]
Row 2 Ch1, dc2tog, 4dc, 2dc in last st,
turn.
Row 3 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 4dc, dc2tog,
turn.
Row 4 As Row 2.
Rows 5-22 Repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Row 23 Ch1, 2dc in first st, 4dc,
dc2tog. Fasten off.
You can make 2 Roof Sides exactly the
same, or reverse the shaping on the
second piece (Row 1 would be dc2tog,
4dc, 2dc in last st) so that both of the
pieces have RS facing.
ROOF TOP
Using Tangerine, ch21.
Row 1 Dc in 2nd ch from hook and in
each ch to end, turn. [20 sts]
Rows 2-10 Ch1, skip next st, dc in each
st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [Decrease
by 2 sts each row, 2 sts after Row 10]
Fasten off.
CLOCK FACE
After Round 1, work in a spiral without
closing off each round with a ss. Use a
marker in the first st of the round to
help you keep track of rounds.
Using Tangerine, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 6dc into loop, ss to
first dc to join. [6 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
[18 sts]
Round 4 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times.
[24 sts]
Round 5 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
[30 sts]
Round 6 (1dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc) 6
times. [36 sts]
Round 7 (5dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
[42 sts]
Round 8 (2dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc) 6
times. [48 sts]
Round 9 (Skip next st, 5htr in next st,
skip next st, dc in next st) 11 times, skip
next st, 5htr in next st, skip next st, ss in
the first st of the round.
Fasten off.
Use Brown and backstitch to form the
clock hands. Sew a circle of felt at the
centre over the top of the stitching.
FATHER CHRISTMAS
BODY
Work in a spiral without closing off each
round with a ss. Use a marker in the first
st of the round to help you keep track.
Using Red, ch7.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, rotate
to work into the other side of the
foundation ch: dc in other side of each
existing st. [12 sts]
Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
[18 sts]
Round 3 (2dc in next st, 2dc) 6 times.
[24 sts]
Round 4 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 6 times.
[30 sts]
Ss in the next st to smooth the edge.
Fasten off.
BEARD
Work in a spiral without closing off each
round with a ss. Use a marker in the first
st of the round to help you keep track.
Using Nature, ch6.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, rotate
to work into the other side of the
foundation ch, dc in other side of each

existing st. [10 sts]
Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[15 sts]
Round 3 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[20 sts]
Round 4 Dc in next st, skip next st,
(5htr in next st, skip next st, ss in next
st, skip next st) 4 times, 5htr in next st,
skip next st, ss in first st of next round.
[5 shells]
Fasten off.
HAT
Join Red to the third htr of last shell on
the Beard.
Rows 1-2 Ch1 (does not count as a
stitch throughout), 8dc, turn.
Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st
to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. [4 sts after
Row 4]
Row 5 Ch1, skip first st, 3dc, turn. [3 sts]
Row 6 Ch1, skip first st, 2dc. [2 sts]
Fasten off.
BOBBLE
Using Nature, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) 5htr into loop, ss to first
htr to join.
Fasten off and sew onto top of Hat.
Sew the Beard/Hat onto the Body at a
jaunty angle and add felt eyes.
TREES
LEFT TREE
Using Light Green, ch9.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in the 2nd ch from the
hook and in each ch to end, turn. [8 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch
throughout), dc in each ch to end, turn.
Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st
to end, turn. [6 sts after Row 4]
Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Rows 6-7 As Rows 3-4.
[4 sts after Row 7]
Rows 8-9 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn.
Change to Nature.
Rows 10-12 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each
st to end, turn. Fasten off.
With Nougat, join onto 4th st of
foundation ch.
Rows 1-4 Ch1, 3dc, turn. Fasten off.
MIDDLE TREE
Using Green, ch11.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and
in each ch to end, 10dc, turn. [10 sts]
Rows 2-7 Ch1 (does not count as a
stitch throughout), skip first st, dc in
DECORATIONS
each st to end, turn. [4 sts after Row 7]
Change to Nature.
Rows 8-10 As Row 2. Fasten off.
Join Nougat to 5th st of foundation ch.
Rows 1-6 Ch1, 3dc, turn.
Fasten off.
RIGHT TREE
Using Light Green, ch9.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from the
hook and in each ch to end, turn. [8 sts]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as a stitch
throughout), dc in each st to end, turn.
Rows 3-4 Ch1, skip first st, dc in each st
to end, turn. [6 sts after Row 4]
Row 5 As Row 2.
Row 6 As Row 3. [5 sts]
Change to Nature.
Rows 7-10 As Row 3. Fasten off.
Join Nougat to 4th st of foundation ch.
Rows 1-5 Ch1, 3dc, turn.
Fasten off.
MAIN WINDOWS (MAKE 2)
Using Nature, ch8.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, turn.
[7 sts]
Rows 2-9 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn. Fasten off.
SHUTTERS (MAKE 4)
Using Light Pistachio, ch5.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in 2nd ch from hook and
in each ch to end, turn. [4 sts]
Rows 2-11 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn. Fasten off.
Using Green, work long straight
stitches across the width of each
shutter, using the image as a guide.
For the window frames, use Light
Pistachio to make a length of ch to fit
vertically and horizontally across each
window. Sew into place.
Make another length of ch to fit around
the outside of each window.
Sew into place.
TOP WINDOW
Using Nature, ch11.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, turn.
[10 sts]
Rows 2-13 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn. Fasten off.
For the window frame, use Light
Pistachio to make a length of ch to fit
Instead of a traditional cuckoo, this festive
version of the clock has a resident robin.
around the outside of the window.
Sew into place.
ROBIN
After Round 1 on each piece, work in a
spiral without closing off each round
with a ss. Use a marker in the first st of
the round to help you keep track of
rounds.
BODY
Using Nougat, make a magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1, 5dc into loop, ss to
first dc to join. [5 sts]
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [10 sts]
Round 3 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[15 sts]
Round 4 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[20 sts]
Rounds 5-6 Dc in each st around.
Round 7 (3dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[25 sts]
Rounds 8-11 Dc in each st around.
Round 12 (3dc, dc2tog) 5 times. [20 sts]
Stuff.
Round 13 (Dc2tog) 10 times. [2 sts]
Fasten off, top up the stuffing and sew
across the gap to close.
BELLY
Using Red, ch6.
Round 1 (RS) Dc in the second ch from
the hook and in each ch to end, rotate
to work into the other side of the
foundation ch, dc in other side of each
existing st. [10 sts]
Round 2 (1dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[15 sts]
Round 3 (2dc, 2dc in next st) 5 times.
[20 sts]
Ss in next st to smooth the edge.
Fasten off.
Sew the Belly onto the Body. Add
circles of felt for eyes. Use Tangerine
and straight stitches to sew on a beak.
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 DECORATIONS

ICICLES UNDER ROOF Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as a

Using Nature:
Row 1 Ch6, 3ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5,
3ss, ch3, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch8, 5ss, ch7,
3ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch5,
3ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7,
5ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch6,
4ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch7,
4ss, ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5,
2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch2.
Check that this length will fit under the
apex of the roof and add more random
ch and ss stitches if necessary.
Row 2 Ss back across the top of this
chain. Fasten off.
ICICLES UNDER LEFT WINDOW
Using Nature:
Row 1 Ch6, 4ss, ch4, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5,
2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5, 3ss, ch7, 4ss, ch2.
Check the fit under the window.
Row 2 Ss back across the top of this
chain. Fasten off.
ICICLES UNDER RIGHT WINDOW
Using Nature:
Row 1 Ch6, 3ss, ch5, 2ss, ch6, 4ss, ch5,
3ss, ch3, 2ss, ch5, 3ss, ch8, 5ss, ch7,
3ss, ch2.
Check the fit under the window.
Row 2 Ss back across the top of this
chain. Fasten off.
PINE CONES (MAKE 3)
BASE
Work in a spiral without closing off each
round with a ss. Use a marker in the first
st of the round to help you keep track.
Using Brown, make a magic loop.
st), 6dc into loop.
Round 2 2dc in each st around. [12 sts]
Rounds 3-11 Dc in each st around.
Stuff.
Round 12 (Dc2tog) 6 times. [2 sts]
Top up stuffing.
Fasten off, sewing the gap closed.
OUTER DETAIL
Using Nougat, ch102.
Row 1 (Skip 2 ch, 5tr in next ch, skip 2
ch, dc in next ch) 17 times. Fasten off.
Wrap this around the main piece,
sewing in place as you go.
TO MAKE UP
Pin Roof Sides onto the Main Piece so
that they follow the roof apex (they
might be a little curved before you pin
them but they will pull straight). Sew
into place. Sew Roof Top across Sides
and Main Piece.
Sew Clock Face centrally onto Main
Piece so the bottom row is level with
Row 9. Sew Father Christmas to the
right of the Clock Face.
Sew the Trees to the left of the Clock
Face, with their trunks on the bottom
row of Main Piece.
Sew on the Window and Shutter pieces
so that the outside Shutter is about 2
sts in from edge and Shutters sit on
Row 31. Place the base of the Windows
slightly higher so that there are equal
lengths of Shutter above and below
each Window.
The three-dimensional pine cone weights
have fantastic texture and are fun to hook.
Sew the Top Window into the centre of
the space left at the top.
Sew the Robin into the Top Window.
Sew the Icicles onto the bottom of the
Roof and under the Windows.
To attach the Pine Cone Weights, use
Green and ch25 for the central Pine
Cone and ch20 for the outer two Pine
Cones. Fasten off.
Sew one end of the chain to the Pine
Cone and the other end to the Main
Piece of the clock. Sew on the central
one first, so you can make sure it’s in
the middle, and then attach the other
two on either side.
To hang the clock, use Brown and ch20.
Ss back along this ch and fasten off.
Sew onto the top of the Main Piece at
the back, level with the top of the top
window.
Weave in any remaining ends.

SIMPLE STEPS HOW TO WORK A MAGIC LOOP

Working
yarn
Pull

Tail end

1 To start a Magic Loop, don’t
make a slipknot. Instead, make
a loop with the yarn, leaving a
tail around 10cm long. Make
sure the tail end is under the
working yarn.
2 Insert your hook into the
loop, from front to back.
Wrap the working yarn
around the hook
anticlockwise and pull the
yarn through the loop.
3 Make a t-ch for the sts you
want to work (above, we
made 1 t-ch for dc). Now
work your sts into the Magic
Loop, making sure you work
over both the loop and the
tail end (so two yarn strands).
4 Once you’ve worked the
number of stitches you
need, simply pull the tail end
of the yarn to draw up the
ring. Work a slip stitch to join
the first and last stitches and
finish the first round.

114 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

 DECORATIONS

IMPROVE
YOUR SKILLS!
Perfect your pretty
popcorn stitches by
making our super
cute spruce

Fine Pine
Becky Skuse’s dinky evergreen will have you
hooking textured stitches lickety-split!

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 115

EASY-PEASY DK 3MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT 4MM
YOU WILL NEED
QAdriafil Classic Mirage DK (55%
wool, 45% acrylic, 50g/125m),
1 ball of each:
Green (85), Red (17)
Tree uses 12g of yarn, Flower
uses less than 2g
QA 3mm (US C/2 or D/3) hook
QA 4mm (US G/6) hook
For yarn stockists, contact
Deramores 0800 488 0708
www.deramores.com
MEASUREMENTS
Tree measures 8cm (3in) tall
without flower
ABBREVIATIONS
Picot Ch2, ss to first ch
Puff stitch (Yrh, insert hook in
stitch, yrh, pull up a loop) 3 times
working into the same stitch as
indicated, yrh, pull through all
loops on hook
Popcorn stitch Work 5tr into the
next stitch, carefully remove
working loop from hook, insert
hook in top of first of the 5 tr from
front to back, insert hook back
into working loop and pull
through the first tr, ch1 to secure
popcorn. (On following rounds,
work sts into the ch1 part of the
popcorn stitch, not into the treble
loops of the popcorn stitch.)
For a full list, see page 130.
116 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
T
extured stitches are so much fun
to play with, and popcorns are
perfect for creating the bobbly
texture of a tree! Leave yours plain to
add a touch of greenery to your home or
desk all year round, or add the puff
stitch poinsettia to the top for a festive
feel. The flower is quick and simple to
crochet so you can use it to decorate
other projects – make it in yellow and it
looks just like a star! This mini make will
help you master popcorn stitches and
put you in a festive mood faster than you
can say “pass the mince pies”! Forget the traditional star or angel – this tree
is topped with a pretty poinsettia bloom.
NOTES
The tree uses 12g of yarn and the
Flower uses less than 2g.
To make a larger tree, just add more
rounds in the pattern as set.
To make a larger flower, use a 4mm
hook instead.
C CHRISTMAS TREE
With Green and 4mm hook, make a
magic loop.
Round 1 (RS) Ch1 (does not count as
stitch throughout), 4dc into the loop, ss
to the first dc. [4 dc]
Round 2 Ch3 (counts as first tr The popcorn tree is completely hollow, ready
throughout), tr into st at the base of ch, to be filled up with tasty treats if you like.
2tr into each remaining dc around. [8 tr]
Round 3 Ch3, popcorn st in next st, (tr
in next st, popcorn st in next st) around, POINSETTIA FLOWER
ss to the top of the beginning ch-3. Using Red and 3mm hook, make a
[4 popcorn sts, 4 tr] magic loop, leaving a long tail.
Round 4 Ch1, (dc in next st, 2dc in next Round 1 Ch1 (does not count as st),
st) around, ss to first dc. [12 dc] 10dc into the loop, ss to the first dc.
Round 5 Work as given for Round 3. [10 dc]
[6 popcorn sts, 6 tr] Round 2 (Ch2, puff st in next dc, picot,
Round 6 Ch1, (2dc in next st, dc in each ch2, ss to next dc) 5 times, working final
of next 2 sts) around, ss to the first dc. ss into dc at base of beg ch-2. [5 petals]
[16 dc] Fasten off and weave in end.
Round 7 Work as given for Round 3.
[8 popcorn sts, 8 tr] TO MAKE UP
Round 8 Ch1, (dc in each of next 3 sts, Use long tail from the magic loop to
2dc in next st) around, ss to the first dc. sew the flower to the top of the tree.
[20 dc]
Round 9 Work as given for Round 3.
[10 popcorn sts, 10 tr]
Round 10 Ch1, (2dc in next st, dc in
each of next 4 sts) around, ss to the first
dc. [24 dc]
Round 11 Work as given for Round 3.
[12 popcorn sts, 12 tr]
Round 12 Ch1, (dc in each of next 5 sts,
2dc in next st) around, ss to the first dc.
[28 dc]
Fasten off and weave in ends.
 puFfs aNd poPcornS
Workshop Follow our step-by-step guide to add extra dimension
to your crochet with textured popcorn and puff stitches.

What CouLd i LeaRn?

Here’s the lowdown on what you need to know…

Textured crochet stitches

are one of the joys of
hooking yarny fabrics. You
can combine all sorts of
stitches to create infinite
effects of tempting
texture. If you love our
cute Christmas tree on
page 115 but aren’t sure
how to work the popcorn
and puff stitches used in
the project, our guide to
these techniques will have PUFF STITCHES POPCORN STITCHES
you up and running in no
time. And once you’ve These smooth stitches use a technique similar to These big, bumpy stitches use trebles, so you’ll
mastered them you’ll have working half trebles, so it will help to know how to need to know how to work trebles before trying
fun using them in all work half trebles before trying puff stitches. They popcorn stitches. You can work them so they ‘pop’
manner of makes! look similar on the front and back of the fabric. out on the front or back of the fabric.

WhiCh StiTch ShoUld i use?

Take your pick from these four ‘lumpy’ stitches…

There are various ways to create

clumps and bumps in crochet
fabric. The four most-used
methods are puff stitches 01 ,
popcorns 02 , clusters 03 and
bobbles 04 . Each stitch creates
a slightly different look, making
each one better for certain 01 02

projects and stitch patterns.

Each stitch uses a different
technique to pack several
stitches or part stitches into the
width of one stitch, which tends
to raise up away from the fabric
to create a bump. Once you
finish working each of these
textured stitches, you’ll have 03 04
one stitch to work into on the
next row or round, so counting
stitches is easy! next st, yrh, pull up loop, yrh, pull through first 2 work 6 part tr (or follow the instructions in your
Cluster and bobble stitches loops (2 loops on hook). Without finishing the pattern). To finish the stitch, yrh, pull through all
are both worked using part previous part treble, work more part tr in the same loops on hook. For a bobble stitch, you also need
trebles. Start a treble in the way from *, into the same stitch. To work a cluster, to work ch1 to secure it and form a neat st to work
usual way: *yrh, insert hook in you usually need to work 3 part tr. For a bobble, into on the next row.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 117
how do i Make Puff StiTches?
Master this strokeable stitch with these simple steps.
To practise puff stitches, make one row of 16 treble stitches (so ch18,
work a treble into the 4th chain from the hook and in each chain to
the end). On the second row, make the 3-ch t-ch. Now work a puff
stitch into the top of the next stitch on the row below, as follows:
*Work yrh, insert hook into next stitch, yrh and pull up a loop of
yarn (3 loops on hook). Bring the loop of yarn up to the same height
as a treble stitch (match the height of the turning chain and you
should be fine) 01 .
Now repeat from * twice more. You should have 7 loops on the
hook. Now work one more yrh 02 and pull this through all the loops
on the hook 03 . To secure the stitch, chain 1 (yrh and pull through
one loop) 04 . Your puff stitch will be complete and you’ll be ready to
work your next puff stitch.** To do this, repeat from * to ** but skip
one stitch on the row below and work into the following stitch – this
will help to space out your puff stitches.
In this swatch, we’re going to count both the puff stitch top loop
and the ch1 as stitches, so each puff stitch will count as 2 sts and
skipping a stitch on the row below after each puff stitch will maintain
the same stitch count. Some patterns may only count the ch1 as a
stitch so follow the instructions in the pattern you’re working with.
Make more puff stitches in the same way to the end of the row
(make 7 puff stitches), then work a plain treble stitch into the top of
the turning chain on the row below 05 . You’ll see how the stitches
look like little puffs of yarn – if you lie your fabric flat, the puffs should
stand out a little from the treble stitches in the fabric.
Turn your work and then you can either make another row of puff
stitches in the same way, or work a plain row of 16 treble stitches like
01
118 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
we did. From the wrong side of the fabric 06 , you’ll see that the puff
stitches look very similar, so you can work them on the right side or
wrong side of your fabric – very handy!
In a pattern, you’ll usually see a puff stitch like the one above
written as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in next stitch, yrh, pull loop of
yarn through stitch) 3 times, yrh, pull through all loops on hook.
This sort of puff stitch has 3 repeats, which means you pulled a
loop of yarn through the stitch on the row below 3 times. You can
make larger puff stitches by increasing the number of times you
work this part of the technique.
Use the swatch you’ve already started to practise working a puff
stitch that has 4 repeats. Start the next RS row with the 3-ch t-ch,
then work a puff stitch into the top of the next stitch on the row
below, as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in stitch, yrh, pull loop of yarn
through stitch) 4 times. You should have 9 loops on the hook.
Remember to pull the loops of yarn up to the same height as a treble
stitch. Yrh, pull through all loops on hook. Chain 1.
Now work yrh, skip 1 stitch and work another 4-repeat puff stitch
into the next stitch. Continue in this way to the end of the row (make
7 puff stitches), and work a plain treble stitch into the top of the
turning chain on the row below. Turn and make a row of 16 treble sts.
Then try making a row of puff stitches with 5 repeats – simply work
each puff stitch in the same way as before, but repeat the bracketed
section 5 times instead of 4 times, as follows: (Yrh, insert hook in
stitch, yrh, pull loop of yarn through stitch) 5 times. You’ll notice that
the puff stitches get larger and closer together, which creates a
slightly different effect in your fabric 07 .
02 03 04
05
06 07
 workshop
how do i Work PopCorn StiTches?
Here’s how to work stitches that ‘pop’ out of your fabric.
These little stitches are so much fun, they ‘pop’ right out of your
fabric. The small bumps look similar to bobble stitches, but you can
work them using any stitch, even double crochet, so you can create
much smaller bumps. We’re going to show you how to work them
using treble crochet. You can make popcorn stitches on right side or
wrong side rows, so that they ‘pop’ out of the front or the back of
your fabric. We’ll show you how to work both types so that the
bumps only show on the front or right side of the crochet fabric.
To practise working popcorns, make one row of 14 treble stitches
(so ch16, work a treble into the 4th chain from the hook and in each
chain to the end). On the second row, make the 3-ch t-ch and work a
treble into the next stitch. Now work a front popcorn stitch into the
top of the next stitch on the row below, as follows:
*In the next stitch, work 5 whole treble stitches as usual 01 . After
the final treble is finished, carefully remove the hook from the
working loop.^ Insert the hook into the top of the first treble you
made in this group of 5 trebles. Make sure you insert the hook into
the loop from front to back 02 . Insert the hook back into the
working loop 03 and pull it through the top of the first stitch 04 .
Finish the stitch by making 1 chain – this will form the top of the stitch
that you’ll work into on the next row.
01 02
05
08 09
Space out your popcorn stitches by a working plain treble into the
next two stitches. Then you can work a popcorn stitch into the next
stitch in the same way as before, repeating from *. Continue the row
in this way and make 4 popcorn stitches in total 05 .
These popcorn stitches will all pop out on the front of the work as
you make them, so if you work them on the right side they will ‘pop’
out of the front of the work. To make popcorn stitches that will ‘pop’
out on the reverse side of the work as you make them, you will need
to work a back popcorn stitch.
To do this, turn your work, make the 3-ch t-ch and treble into the
next stitch. Now work a back popcorn stitch into the next stitch (this
will be the ch1 part of the popcorn stitch on the row below, don’t
work into the popcorn stitch loop that lies next to it). Now work in
the exact same way as the front popcorn stitch above, from * 06 , but
when you reach ^, you need to insert the hook from back to front,
into the top of the first of the 5 trebles you made 07 , then back into
the working loop 08 and pull through 09 . Chain 1 to complete the
stitch, then work more back popcorn stitches and trebles across the
rest of the row as before. Turn and you’ll find that this gives you two
rows of popcorn stitches that all ‘pop’ out on the front or right side of
the fabric 10 . Now try making our Christmas tree project…
03 04
06 07
Written by Becky Skuse
10
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 119
So scAndi
Be inspired by a Nordic Christmas to hook these
cute decorations by Hannah Cross and Anne Egan.
 DECORATIONS

B
EASY PEASY DK 3.5MM
TO MAKE WEIGHT HOOK
YOU WILL NEED
Q King Cole Baby Alpaca DK
(100% baby alpaca, 50g/100m),
1 ball of each: Cranberry (510),
Fawn (501), Grey (502)
Q A 3.5mm (US E/4) hook
Q Polyester toy stuffing
Q Various small buttons
Q Ribbon for hanging
For yarn stockists, contact
King Cole 01756 703670
www.kingcole.co.uk
righten up your Christmas
decorating this year with this trio
of red and white Nordic
ornaments. Anne Egan’s cute little
padded tree is so simple to make, and
perfect for crochet newbies. Her sweet
bird is also sure to be a festive favourite
– why not make a whole flock to hang
from your tree or mantelpiece? Then
Hannah Cross’s round star bauble is a
safer alternative to glass ornaments on
your tree – ideal if you have young
children or pets to keep an eye on!
TRIANGLE TREE
NOTES
Each Tree is made with a main colour,
Yarn A, and a contrast colour, Yarn B.
Use shades of your choice.

MEASUREMENTS C TREE SIDES (MAKE 2)

Tree: approx 10x7cm (4x3in)
Bird: approx 9x7cm (3½x2¾in)
Star: 6cm (2¼in)
ABBREVIATIONS
For a full list, see page 130.
With Yarn A, ch8.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in eighth ch from hook
(to form hanging loop), turn. [1 dc]
Row 2 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), 2dc in next st, turn. [2 dc]
Row 3 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in next st,
turn. [3 dc]
Row 4 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 5 Ch1, dc in each st, increasing by
1 stitch in the centre st, or as near as
possible to the centre st. [4 dc]
Row 6 Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn.
Rows 7-19 Repeat Rows 5 and 6. [10 dc]
Rows 20-21 Ch1, dc in first st, 2dc in
next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
[12 dc]
Row 22 Ch1, dc in first st , 2dc in next
st, dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in next
st, dc in last st, turn. [14 dc]
Row 23 Ch1, dc in first st , 2dc in next
st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next
st, 1dc in each of next 5 sts, 2dc in next
st, 1dc in last st, turn. [17 dc]
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Weave in ends on WS.
With Yarn B, embroider both Tree Side
pieces using the images as a guide.
Stuff and stitch together around the
entire edge with Yarn B.
Thread a piece of ribbon through chain
loop to hang, if desired.
FESTIVE BIRD
NOTES
The wings on the bird are optional. If
you don’t want to crochet them, you
You could add some essentials oils to your toy
stuffing so your decorations smell good, too!
The bird’s wings can be embroidered on
instead, if you’re short on time.
can embroider a wing shape with
contrast yarn instead.
BIRD SIDES (MAKE 2)
Make 2 pieces, 1 in Cranberry and 1 in
Fawn.
Ch7.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook
and each ch to end, turn. [6 dc]
Row 2 Ch2, 2dc in second ch from
hook, dc in each dc to last st, 2dc in last
dc, turn. [9 dc]
Row 3 Ch1 (does not count as st
throughout), 2dc in next dc, dc in each
dc to last st, 2dc in last dc, turn. [11 dc]
Rows 4-6 Repeat Row 3. [17 dc]
Rows 7-12 Ch1, dc in each st to end,
turn.
HEAD
Row 13 Ch1, dc in each of next 8 dc,

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These sweet little squashy baubles are made up of rounds of treble stitches. Once you’ve
mastered the pattern, you can experiment with colours to match your festive décor.
turn leaving rem sts unworked. [8 dc]
Row 14 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in each st
to end, turn. [7 dc]
Row 15 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in each of
next 4 dc, dc2tog, turn. [5 dc]
Row 16 Ch1, dc in each of next 3 dc,
dc2tog, turn. [4 dc]
Row 17 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 2
dc, ss in last dc. [2 dc]
Fasten off.
TAIL
Rejoin yarn with RS facing, 5 dc from
end of Row 12.
Row 13 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 4
dc to end, turn. [4 dc]
Row 14 Ch1, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog,
turn. [3 dc]
Row 15 Ch1, skip first dc, dc in next 2
dc to end, turn. [2 dc]
Row 16 Ch1, dc2tog. [1 dc]
Turn by 90 degrees and dc evenly
around outside of entire motif, making
a ch-8 loop just behind the Head on
one of the pieces. Fasten off.
WING (MAKE 2)
With a contrast yarn colour of your
122 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS
DECORATIONS
choice, ch2.
Row 1 (RS) Dc in second ch from hook,
turn. [1 dc]
Row 2 Ch1, 3dc in next dc, turn. [3 dc]
Row 3 Dc in each st to last 2 sts, 2dc in
next st, 1dc in last st, turn. [4 dc]
Rows 4-7 Repeat Row 3. [8 dc]
Rotate on side and dc evenly to point
of wing, 3dc in point and dc back down
other side.
Fasten off.
BEAK
With contrast colour, ch2, 2dc in
second ch from hook.
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Weave in ends on WS for one Wing and
one Bird Side piece, and on RS for the
other Wing and Bird Side piece.
With contrast yarn, stitch each Wing in
place to each Bird Side piece, with one
Bird Side piece facing in one direction
and the other Bird Side piece facing in
the opposite direction.
With Wings on the outside, place Bird
Sides together, stuff and stitch around
the edge with contrast yarn to join,
stitching the Beak in place as you go.
Stitch on button for eyes. Thread ribbon
through ch loop for hanging.
ROUND STAR BAUBLE
CIRCLE (MAKE 2)
Each decoration uses 3 shades of yarn of
your choice: Yarns A, B and C.
With Yarn A, ch4, ss to first ch to form a
ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch3 (counts as tr
throughout), 11tr into ring, ss to top of
beg ch-3. [12 tr]
Round 2 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, 2tr in
each st around, ss to top of beg ch-3.
[24 tr]
Fasten off Yarn A.
Join Yarn B.
Round 3 Ch3, tr in st at base of ch, tr in
next st, (2tr in next st, tr in next st)
around, ss to top of beg ch-3. [36 tr]
Fasten off.
STAR MOTIF (MAKE 2)
With Yarn B, ch2.
Round 1 (RS) *Dc in second ch from
hook, ch3; rep from * four times more, ss
in first st. [5 points on star]
Fasten off.
TO MAKE UP
Sew each Star to the centre of each Circle
using Yarn C.
Place Circles WS together and work a dc
seam around the outside. Before
completing the seam, ch6, ss to first ch,
stuff, and then finish the seam.
Fasten off.
With Yarn C, work a running stitch around
the dc seam.
Thread a piece of ribbon through the
chain loop to hang.
You can also buy a copy in WHSmiths, leading supermarkets and major newsagents

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EVENTS
by

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 The guide

Crochet essentials
Over the next few pages you’ll find simple step-by-step guides to many
useful stitches and techniques that you’ll use every time you pick up a hook.

HOLDING THE HOOK HOLDING THE YARN

Try these methods and see which works best. Even tension results in even stitches.

PENCIL METHOD KNIFE METHOD METHOD ONE METHOD TWO

Hold the hook like a pencil, in
your right hand (if you’re
right-handed), about 3-5cm
from the hooked end. If your
hook has a flat area, you’ll find
it comfortable to hold it here.
Hold the hook between your
thumb and forefinger, about
3-5cm from the hooked end,
resting the end of the hook
against your palm. This will
give you lots of control.
Pass the ball end of the yarn
between the little finger and
third fingers of your left hand
(if you are right-handed), then
behind the third and middle
fingers, over your index finger.
Loop the ball end of the yarn
loosely around the little finger
of your left hand, then take it
over the third finger, behind
the middle finger and over
your index finger.

MAKING A SLIPKNOT The first loop on the hook.

1 Hold the tail of the ball of
yarn in your left hand and
drape the yarn clockwise
over the top of it to form a
circular loop.
2 Hold the loop between left
thumb and forefinger, then
insert the crochet hook
through the centre of the
loop from front to back.
3 Catch the ball end of the
yarn with the hook and pull it
back through the centre of
the loop, taking the yarn
through with it.
4 Pull both ends of the yarn
to tighten the knot, then pull
just the ball end to tighten
the loop so it’s close to the
hook, but not touching it.

CHAIN STITCH Use this stitch to make your foundation chain. How to count chains

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Each chain or loop counts

1 Hold the hook in your right
hand, and both the yarn end
and the working yarn in your
left hand. Move the hook
under and over the yarn to
wrap it around anticlockwise.
2 Pull the hook towards the
slipknot, catching the yarn in
the hook, and pulling it
through the slipknot loop. This
forms your first chain (ch)
stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to
form a chain length.
3 This is what your row of
chains will look like. Hold the
chain with your left hand near
the hook, to keep the tension.
Keep going until you have the
number of chains stated in
your pattern.
as one stitch. Never count
your first slipknot or the
loop on the hook (called the
working loop). So that you
can be accurate, make sure
the chain is not twisted and
that the front is facing you.

WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 125
SLIP STITCH (ss) WORKING IN ROWS
This stitch has no height – often used to join rounds. Follow these simple rules to construct crochet fabric.

1 The slip stitch is used to
join a length of chain into the
round. Insert the hook from
front to back into the first
chain you worked. Wrap yarn
round the hook (yrh) in an
anticlockwise direction.
2 Pull the yarn through the
chain stitch (as shown) and
then the loop already on the
hook to make a slip stitch.
You can also work this stitch
into each stitch along a row
to form a neat edging.
1 The first row is made by
working across the
foundation chain from right
to left. At the end of the
chain or row, turn the work
so that the yarn is behind
the hook.
2 For the next row, first make
the turning chain for the
stitch you’re about to work
(see opposite). Now work the
next stitch into the top of the
stitches on your first row,
missing the first stitch.

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) US term: single crochet

One of the key stitches in crochet, doubles are simple, compact stitches that form a dense fabric.

1 To make a double crochet
stitch, insert the hook under
the top two loops of the next
stitch on the previous row.
2 Wind the yarn around the
hook (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the
stitch, giving you two loops
on your crochet hook.
4 Yarn round hook again,
then pull the yarn through
both loops. There’s your
double crochet made and
you’ll have one loop left on
the hook, ready to do the
next stitch.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET (htr) US term: half double crochet

A handy stitch that’s between double and treble crochet in size, and it looks slightly looser than double crochet.

1 To make a half treble
crochet stitch, work to where
you want the htr and then
wind the yarn round the
hook (yrh).
2 Insert the hook under the
top two loops of the next
stitch in the previous row.
Wrap yarn around the hook
again (yrh).
3 Pull the yarn through the
stitch only (3 loops on hook).
4 Yarn round hook again, pull
the yarn through all 3 loops.
You’ve made a half treble
crochet. Continue working
htr into next and following
sts to the end of the row.

126 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS


TREBLE CROCHET (tr) US term: double crochet
One of the most popular stitches in crochet, this simple stitch is twice as high as a double crochet stitch.
1 To work a treble crochet,
start by winding yrh and then
insert the hook under the top
two loops of the stitch on the
previous row.
DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr)
US term: treble crochet
This is a stitch regularly used
as an elongated version of the
treble (described above). It’s
worked in a very similar way to
the treble, as follows:
1 Make a foundation chain.
Skip 4ch, *yrh twice, and insert
the hook under the top loop of
the next ch.
2 Yrh, pull the yarn through the
ch loop only (4 loops on hook).
3 Yrh and pull the yarn through
2 loops only (3 loops on hook).
TURNING CHAIN (t-ch)
For an even finish, start each row with a turning chain.
In crochet, you need to add
turning chains (t-chs) to the
beginning of rows. The reason
for this is to bring the hook up
to the height of the stitches
you’re crocheting. Each basic
stitch has its own number of
Add to
foundation
chain before
STITCH starting row
Double crochet 1 ch
Half treble 1 ch
Treble 2 ch
Double treble 3 ch
Triple treble 4 ch
The guide
2 Wrap the yarn around the
hook (yrh) and pull the yarn
through the stitch only.
Yrh and pull the yarn through
2 loops only (2 loops on hook).
4 Yrh and pull the yarn through
the remaining 2 loops. Repeat
from * to make more dtr sts.
5 To make the next row of dtr,
turn work and ch4. This turning
chain counts as the first dtr in a
new row. Skip first st at the
base of the t-ch, work 1dtr
under the top two loops of the
2nd stitch in the previous row;
continue to the end of the row.
chains. The table below tells
you how many t-ch sts form the
first stitch. *For dc, usually the
turning chain does not count as
a stitch, and the first stitch of
the row is worked into the stitch
at the base of the turning chain.
Skip at For
start of turning
foundation chain
row (counts (counts as
as first st) first st)
1 ch* 1 ch*
2 ch 2 ch
3 ch 3 ch
4 ch 4 ch
5 ch 5 ch
3 You will now have 3 loops 4 You will now have 2 loops on
on the hook. Yrh again, and the hook. Yrh again and draw
draw the yarn through just the yarn through the remaining
the first 2 loops on the hook. loops on the hook. Your treble
crochet is complete.
TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (ttr)
US term: double treble crochet
This is one of the longest loops only. Repeat from † 3
standard crochet stitches and times more and your triple
is mainly used in fancy stitch treble will be finished. Repeat
patterns. It’s taller than a from * to make more ttr sts.
double treble crochet stitch 4 To make the next row, turn
(described left) and is worked work and ch5. This turning
in a very similar way, as follows: chain counts as the first triple
1 Make a foundation ch. Skip 5 treble in a new row. Skip first st
ch, *yrh 3 times, insert hook at base of the t-ch. Work 1
under top loop of next ch. triple treble, inserting hook
2 Yrh, pull yarn through ch under the top 2 loops of the
loop only (5 loops on hook). 2nd st in the previous row;
3 † Yrh, draw loop through 2 continue to the end of the row.
How to count stitches
Check your work is correct.
Being able to count
your stitches is very
important and helps
you to ensure that 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
you’re following a
pattern correctly. It’s
a good idea to count
your stitches at the
end of every row. To
count short stitches
such as double
crochet, look at the
plaited tops (see
above right). For
taller stitches, count
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
the upright ‘stems’
– each ‘stem’ is
counted as a stitch
(see right).
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 127
HOW TO GET A PERFECT FINISH INCREASING AND DECREASING
To prevent your hard work unravelling once you’ve Shaping stitches are vital for making garments.
finished crocheting, fasten the end off carefully.
Complete the final stitch,
then cut the yarn about
15cm from the work. Pull it
through the last loop on
the hook and pull to close
the loop. Thread the yarn
tail onto a tapestry needle
and weave into the back of INCREASE To increase one DECREASE For a quick
the work. Most crochet stitch is very simple – work decrease, just skip one stitch.
items don’t need a lot of one stitch into the next stitch For a neater look, work the
blocking, but cotton lace on the row below. When first part of one stitch and
work usually does. To do this, carefully pin out the item with you’ve finished, work another then begin the next stitch.
rust-proof pins, mist with a water spray and leave to dry naturally. stitch into the same stitch. Finish both together.

SEWING SEAMS
You can join crochet seams by using a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, using one of these four methods.

1 Sewing with a tapestry
needle is the regular and
neat way to join seams. Place
two pieces of crochet right
sides together and oversew
them as shown above, using
a tapestry or yarn needle.
2 To slip stitch a seam, place
the crochet pieces right sides
together. *Insert hook into
both edge stitches, yrh and
pull through to complete 1
slip stitch; rep from * working
into the next edge stitches,
keeping work fairly loose.
3 For a dc seam, place the
crochet pieces right sides
together, or wrong sides
together for a visible seam.
Work as for slip stitch seam,
using double crochet instead
of slip stitch.
4 A useful variation on the dc
seam, the dc and chain seam
is used when less bulk and/or
greater flexibility is needed.
Work 1 double crochet and
1 chain alternately.

How to check your tension

Make and measure a swatch to check your tension.

Most crochet patterns state the tension

required, in rows and stitches of a specific
type. Make a swatch at least 15cm square
and check that your tension matches.
Place a ruler across the swatch and insert
two pins, 10cm apart. Then place the ruler
along a column of stitches and insert two
pins 10cm apart. Count the stitches and
rows between the pins – if you have less
than the pattern, your tension is too loose
so you need to use a smaller hook, but if
you have too many, use a larger hook. It’s
usually better to match the stitches than
rows, because you can always work more
or fewer rows.

128 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS


HOW TO CHANGE COLOUR
Create stripes and other colour effects.
1 Before you work the final
yrh (yarn round hook) on the
last stitch of a row in the old
colour, drop the old yarn and
pick up the new one with
your hook.
WORKING STITCHES INTO A RING
Make circles, tubes and other shapes by working simple rounds of crochet stitches.
1 Make a foundation ring (as
described above right) and
then work the correct
number of chains for the t-ch,
for example, 3ch for a treble.
JOINING ROUNDS
Finish off each round of crochet stitches nice and neatly by using a slip stitch.
1 To close a round of
stitches, work a slip stitch
into the top of the turning
chain. To do this, insert the
hook into the top stitch of
the turning chain.
The guide
2 Pull through a loop of the
new yarn to finish the old
stitch. The working loop will
be in the new colour.
Continue, keeping the old
yarn at the wrong side.
2 Now work the stitch as you
would on a row, but insert
the hook into the centre of
the ring rather than each
chain loop. For a treble, yrh,
insert into the ring.
2 Then place the yarn round
the hook. Pull the yarn
through the turning chain
stitch and through the
original stitch on your hook.
FOUNDATION RING
Create a foundation ring for working in the round.
1 Make a chain the length
stated in the pattern
instructions. Next, insert the
crochet hook into the first
chain. Close the ring with a
slip stitch, working yrh…
3 Continue with the treble
stitch, working in the same
way as you would on a row.
So yrh and pull yarn through
the loop. Then yrh and pull
yarn through first 2 loops.
3 You’ve slip stitched the
round together! Before
working another round, be
sure to make the required
turning chain. Always work
rounds on the right side,
unless you pattern instructs
you otherwise.
WWW.SIMPLYCROCHETMAG.COM 129
2 …and pull yarn through 2
loops on hook. Now you’re
ready to start crocheting in
the round, following the
instructions given below.
4 Finish off the treble stitch
by working yrh and pull yarn
through 2 loops. Continue
making stitches into the ring
as instructed in your pattern.
Rounds
or spirals
Check which
technique to use.
Some patterns are worked
in rounds that are joined
©Stephanie Lau, www.allaboutami.com
together at the end of
each round (see left).
Other patterns are worked
in a spiral so you don’t
need to join the rounds at
the end, just keep going,
working into the next
stitch on the previous row.
Amigurumi toys are often
worked in a spiral like this.
 Abbreviations Crochet hook conversions
across to end of the row htr half treble UK METRIC US
alt alternate/alternating htr2tog work 2htr together
14 2mm –
approx approximate(ly) in next sts to be worked into
beg beginning the same stitch 13 2.25mm B/1
bl insert hook under inc increase
back loop only LH left hand 12 2.5mm –
BPtr Back Post treble: lp(s) loop(s)
– 2.75mm C/2
yrh, starting from the meas measures
back, insert hook p or pc picot 11 3mm –
from back to front to patt(s) pattern(s)
back around post of pm place marker 10 3.25mm D/3
st in row below, prev previous
9 3.5mm E/4
complete as treble st rem remains or remaining
ch(s) chain/chain stitch(es) rep repeat – 3.75mm F/5
ch-sp(s) chain space(s) RH right hand
ch- refers to ch made rnd(s) round(s) 8 4mm G/6
previously, eg ch-3 RS right side 7 4.5mm 7
cl(s) clusters sk skip
3-tr cl (yrh, insert hook in sp(s) space(s) 6 5mm H/8
sp/st, yrh & pull up ss slip stitch
loop, yrh & draw st(s) stitch(es) 5 5.5mm I/9
through 2 loops) 3 tbl through back loop 4 6mm J/10
times, inserting hook t-ch(s) turning chain(s)
in same sp/st, yrh & tog together 3 6.5mm K/10½
draw through all tr treble crochet
loops on hook tr2tog (yrh, insert hook in 2 7mm –
cont continue next st, yrh and pull 0 8mm L/11
dc double crochet up loop, yrh and
dc2tog (insert hook in next draw through 2 00 9mm M/13
st, yrh and draw a loops) 2 times, yrh
loop through) twice, and draw through all 000 10mm N/15
yrh and draw through loops on hook
all 3 loops on hook ttr triple treble crochet
dec decrease WS wrong side
dtr double treble crochet yoh yarn over hook
dtr2tog
fl
work 2dtr together
insert hook under
yrh
*
yarn round hook
work instructions
Which hook do I use?
front loop only immediately foll *, Choosing the right size hook for the
foll/folls following/follows then rep as directed yarn you’re crocheting is important.
FPtr Front Post treble: [] or () work or repeat all
work in opposite way instructions in the Hook size UK yarn weight
to BPtr brackets as directed 2.5-3.5mm hook 4ply yarn
3.5-4.5mm hook double knitting yarn

5-6mm hook aran yarn

Crochet abbreviation conversions 7mm and bigger chunky yarn
Use this handy table to convert UK crochet terms to US crochet terms,
or vice versa. Also see individual stitch explanations on previous pages.

UK US Crochet naturally
Work crochet stitches your own way.
chain ch chain ch
Everyone has their own style when crocheting, so if
slip stitch ss slip stitch ss you find any of our instructions hard to follow, just
double crochet dc single crochet sc practise with a hook and some yarn to find a style
you’re comfortable with. Most people crochet with
half treble htr half double hdc
the hook in one hand and the working yarn in the
treble tr double dc other, but you don’t have to. To get some ideas,
look at how other crocheters work, or watch some
double treble dtr treble tr
videos on the internet. As long as you have some
triple treble ttr double treble dtr tension between the working yarn and your work,
your crochet results should work out fine.

130 YOUR CROCHET CHRISTMAS

Crochet
C H R I S T M A S
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r fa pl
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You im
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Crochet C H R I S T M A S
Get ready for a cosy Christmas with this collection of festive
projects from Simply Crochet. From gifts for all the family to
unique handmade decorations, there’s something here to suit
every crocheter and every home. Plus there are gorgeous patterns
for accessories in every style from relaxed to glam, so you can
treat yourself to a new winter wardrobe in time for Christmas!

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