®

www.estesrockets.com

Model Rocketry
Technical Manual

By William Simon Revised 1993 By Thomas Beach and Joyce Guzik

 INTRODUCTION TABLE OF CONTENTS
Topic Page
Why Estes Model Rocketry 3
Welcome to the exciting world of Estes® A Safe Program 3
Your First Model Rocket 3
model rocketry! This technical manual was Construction Techniques 3
Types of Glues 3
written to provide both an easy-to-follow guide Finishing 6
Stability 7
for the beginner and a reference for the experi- Swing Test For Stability 8
Preparing For Flight 8
enced rocket enthusiast. Here you’ll find the Igniter Installation 9
Launching 9
Countdown Checklist 10
answers to the most frequently asked ques-
Tracking 10
Trackers 10
tions. More complete technical information on Recovery Systems 11
Multi-Staging 11
all the subjects can be found on the Estes® Clustering 13
Model Rocket Engines 14
website (www.estesrockets.com) and the Estes NAR Safety Code 15
Publications back cover
Educator™ website (www.esteseducator.com) *Copyright 1970, 1989,1993, 2003 Estes-Cox Corp. All Rights Reserved.
Estes is a registered trademark of Estes-Cox Corp.

2
 WHY ESTES MODEL ROCKETRY?
The hobby of model rocketry originated at the dawn of the
space age in the late 1950’s. Seeing space boosters carry the
first artificial satellites into Earth’s orbit inspired many enthu-
siastic young people to try to emulate the rocket pioneers by
building their own rockets. Unfortunately, these homemade
“rockets” usually involved stuffing flammable chemicals into
metal pipes, very often with tragic results. Newspapers told of
fingers and eyes lost — and all too frequently of lives lost. What
was needed was a safe alternative that would allow young peo-
ple to experience the thrill of constructing and launching their
own rockets and provide them with the opportunity to explore
the fascinating science of rocketry. Estes model rocketry is the
answer.
A SAFE PROGRAM
Estes model rocketry is a safe activity because it incorporates
three important features. The first is the model rocket engine, a
professionally manufactured, low cost, solid-fuel rocket engine.
This frees the rocket builder from the inherently dangerous pro-
cedures of mixing chemicals and packing propellant.
The second feature is the use of safe materials for constructing
the rockets. All model rockets are built using only lightweight
materials such as paper, plastic, and wood. Metal parts are
never used for the main structural components of the model.
The third feature is the incorporation of the Model Rocket
Safety Code into all our flying activities. The safety code pro-
vides guidelines for the safe operation of model rockets, such
as launching the rockets electrically from a safe distance, and
using recovery systems to gently return the model to Earth.
When the safety code is followed, model rocketry is an extreme-
ly safe activity, safer than baseball, soccer, or swimming. Our
hobby’s excellent safety record spans over 45 years and 300
million rocket launches.
YOUR FIRST MODEL ROCKET
The Estes Alpha® is shown here to illustrate the parts of a
typical model rocket for the beginning rocket builder. The
construction techniques used in this and other model rockets
are explained in greater detail in this manual.
Nose
Shock
Cord
Cone
Shock Cord
Mount
Body Tube
Launch Lug Shroud
Lines
Engine Mount
Assembly
Parachute
®
Engine
Hook
Fins
For your first model rocket we recommend one of the Estes
E2X® series. No modeling experience is needed to build an
E2X® model. Construction involves almost no cutting or sand-
ing, and the models do not need painting.
The Skill Level 1 models are an excellent choice for your sec-
ond or third model. These models are also a good starting
point if you have previous model building experience.
ENGINE MOUNT
Centering
ASSEMBLY
Rings
Engine
Hook
Engine
Holder Tube
3 the correct position. Remove the engine casing immediately.
As your knowledge of rocketry and your modeling skills
increase you can move up to building higher skill level models,
and eventually to building your own custom designs from parts
available in the Estes catalog.
CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES
In the construction of your Estes model rockets you will typi-
cally need the following tools and supplies (see kit instructions
for specific requirements):
•Modeling knife •Scissors
•Ruler •Spray Primer
•Spray paint •Tube-type plastic cement
•Masking tape •Fine and extra fine sandpaper
•White glue or carpenter’s glue
Always exercise care when using a modeling knife (they are
very sharp!) and don’t leave the knife laying around after you
finish with it. Use some sort of cutting board under the knife.
A smooth, flat piece of board is great; an old phone book or
thick catalog also works well on a hard surface. Use newspa-
per to protect your work surface from accidental glue spills.
TYPES OF GLUE
Several types of glues and adhesives are commonly used in
the construction of model rockets; the proper glue to use
depends on the application.
1. White Glue: This glue works on porous materials such as
paper and balsa. It is a good choice for engine mounts,
balsa and fiber fins, launch lugs, paper parts, and for
applying fillets to fin-body joints.
2. Aliphatic Glue: Also known as “wood glue” or “carpen-
ter’s glue”; it is usually yellow or tan in color. It is used
just like white glue, but it is stronger and dries faster.
3. Tube-type Plastic Cement: This thick, clear liquid is used
to glue styrene plastic parts to porous materials such as
paper. It is typically used to glue plastic parts to body
tubes. Some E2X series kits use this glue for assembly.
4. Liquid Styrene Cement: This thin, clear liquid is used to
bond styrene parts together. The cement comes in a bot-
tle and is applied with a small brush.
5. Cyanoacrylate: Commonly known as “super” or “instant”
glues, these adhesives are available in both thin and
thick formulations. Because this type of glue can
instantly bond skin, it should never be used by unsuper-
vised children. Eye protection and gloves are recom-
mended. These adhesives are useful for quick assembly
or field repairs. They work well for gluing plastic parts
to balsa or body tubes.
6. Epoxies: These two-part adhesives are also recommend-
ed for the advanced modeler. Epoxy provides extra
strength for the engine mounts and fins of high-thrust
rocket kits. It also makes excellent fin fillets in one step.
1. ENGINE MOUNTING METHODS
It is important to have a strong engine mount. This secures
the engine, allowing it to “push” your rocket into the air.
Engine Block Installation
Some models use an engine block to keep the engine from
traveling too far forward in the rocket body when the rocket is
launched.
When building a model, use an engine casing (or the special
spacer tube supplied in some kits) to push the engine block into
position. First, mark the engine casing 1/4 inch from the end.
Apply glue to the inside of the tube using a cotton swab or small
dowel. Place the engine block just inside the rear of the body
tube, then push the block forward into position with the engine
casing in one smooth motion so the glue will not freeze the
block in the wrong place. When the mark on the engine casing
is even with the rear of the body tube the block will then be in
 4. MARK THE BODY
Body Tube This Fin Spacing Guide will space equally three or four fins
®

B6-4 on all popular body tubes sold by Estes Industries. To space

the fins, center the end of the tube in the circles, then mark at
Engine Block the (4) lines for four fins or on the (3) lines for three fins.

1/4”
(6 mm)
Engine Casing
When mounting the engine in a model with an engine block,
wrap the engine with masking tape until it makes a tight fric-
tion fit in the tube, then slide the engine into place. If the fit is
too loose, the engine will kick out at ejection and may not
deploy the recovery system. If the fit is too tight, you may dam-
age the model trying to push the engine in place. Adjust the
amount of tape as needed.
If the arrangement of the engine mount tube and fins allows
Glue
4
Mark the body tube for fin alignment using the “V” notch of a
drawer sill or door frame. Match the edge of the notch with a
spacing mark; run a pencil along the edge to draw your guide
line. Gluing the fins to the body on these lines will insure that
they are straight.
Estes also manufactures a special Tube Marking Guide for
marking fin location lines on body tubes,
3 3
4 4

5
enough space, a wrap of tape around the tube and engine joint

0
2
can help hold the engine in the model.

0
5

5
5
Engine Holders

0
6
In many models a quick release engine holder (also called an
5. INSTALL THE ENGINE MOUNT

0
engine hook) is the best device to use for mounting an engine.

7
The forward end of the engine holder is inserted through a 1/8 Be sure the glue on the engine mount rings is completely dry
3

0
before you install the mount in the body tube. The fin align-

inch wide slit in the tube, and prevents forward movement of
the engine. Apply glue fillets where the engine mount spacer
rings attach to the engine mount tube for extra strength.
To mount an engine in a model with an engine holder, spring
the end of the holder up and slide the engine into place. Check
to make sure the end of the holder latches securely over the
end of the engine.
8
ment lines should be drawn on the body before installing the
4
engine mount. You will position the mount so the engine hold-
er is midway between two fin lines for easier operation.
Before gluing, make sure the mount slides easily in the body
tube. If it’s tight, sand it until it slides easily.
Smear a liberal amount of glue around the inside of the body
tube over the area where the mount’s ring or coupler will fit.
Insert the mount into position in one smooth motion. DON’T
pause, or the glue will
“grab” it in the wrong
place! Support the tube
“nose-up” while the glue
dries.

6. BALSA FINS
2. SHOCK CORD MOUNTS
Fins are used to aerodynamically guide your rocket. Some model
Attach the shock cord securely. Both methods shown yield rockets use fins made from thin sheets of balsa wood. In many
good results. The slit-n-glue method is good for body tubes too kits the fins are pre-cut for you by a punch die. In other kits, or to
small for an anchor mount. make custom fins, you must use a pattern to mark and cut a blank
The anchor is cut from paper or index card stock. Be sure to sheet of balsa. All balsa fins must be cut so that the grain of the
glue the anchor far enough into the tube or it will interfere wood runs parallel with the leading
with the proper fit of the nose cone. edge of the fin for maximum dge
ing E
strength. Lead
dge

tion
Direc
Grain
ot E

Spread Glue, Fold - Pinch & Hold

Tip

Die-Cut Balsa Fins

Ro

Slit-N-Glue Method UE
GL
UE
GL

2 3
Before removing the die-cut fins Trailing Edge
3
from their sheet, use extra fine sand-
paper to sand both surfaces of the sheet of balsa (a sanding block
1" is helpful here). Use a modeling knife to carefully cut through the
points where the fins are still attached to the die-cut sheet, then
Cut 2 Slits 1/2” Long remove the fins. Stack the fins together and sand all edges
YES
1/4” Apart square.
Thread In
Apply Glue Anchor Method

Sanding Block Sandpaper

3. SECURING A SCREW EYE

If your model uses a screw eye to attach the shock cord to a
balsa nose cone or adapter, make sure the screw eye is secure- Die-Cut Remove Using
ly attached. Make a hole by inserting and removing the eye; Balsa Sheet Modeling Knife
then squirt glue into the hole and replace the eye.
Fins Stacked
Sandpaper
Together

4
Balsa Fins From Patterns
To make fins from an un-cut sheet of balsa, start with a full-
size fin pattern cut from stiff paper or thin cardboard. When
laying out the fins on the sheet of balsa be sure to position the
pattern so that the leading edge of the fin runs parallel to the
grain direction! Trace around the pattern with a pencil or ball
point pen to mark the balsa for each fin.
Lead
ing E
dge
Grain
ge
FIN Ed
Ro
ot LAYOUT
PATTERN
TRACING
Use a metal straightedge whenever possible. Hold the knife
blade at a 90° angle to surface being cut, and handle at about
45° for clean cut. If blade is dull or held too high, balsa tends to
tear. A razor saw blade may be required to cut thicker balsa.
Shaping Balsa Fins
The instruction sheets in many kits tell you to sand all edges
of the fins square. This is fine, and it is the easiest method, but
you can reduce drag and increase the altitude performance of
your rocket by proper shaping of the fin edges.
For general purposes, sand all fin edges round except the
root edge (the edge that glues to the body). Make the root
edges straight and square, never rounded! The sides of the fins
should be sanded smooth.
On high performance models sand the fins to the streamlined
shape shown for minimum drag. The front (leading) edge of
the fin should be rounded; the back (trailing) edge should come
to a sharp edge.
Rounded Edges Streamlined
7. ATTACHING THE FINS
After marking the tube and sanding the fins, you are ready to
attach them to the body. The best way to attach balsa or fiber
fins to a rocket with white glue is by using a “double glue joint”.
Apply a layer of glue to the root edge of a fin and a thin layer of
glue to the body tube where the fin will be attached. Do this
for all fins and allow this glue to dry. Then apply a second line
of glue to the root edge and press the fin in place onto the
body, holding it in place until the glue begins to set. Before the
glue sets completely, sight down along the body tube to make
sure that the fin is aligned parallel with the tube, and oriented
straight away from the surface of the tube. Adjust the fin align-
ment as needed. Support the rocket body in a vertical position
while the glue on the fins dries.
Glue
Fin Drying
Position
5
Sometime after the fin joints have dried completely, they should
be reinforced. Do this by applying a “fillet” of glue as shown.
Always support the body in a horizontal position while fillets are
drying so that the glue does not
run. Build up the fillets in several Fillets
thin layers, allowing each layer to
dry between applications (this is
much faster than waiting for a sin-
gle thick fillet layer to dry).
8. ATTACHING LAUNCH LUGS
The launch lugs are used to position the rocket on the launch
rod. The lugs and rod help guide the rocket in its first few feet of
flight. The model must be guided until it is going fast enough for
the fins to guide it. Launch lugs are attached in much the same
way as fins. If a stand-off is used to keep the rod from hitting a
large diameter payload section, attach the lug to the stand-off
piece first, then attach the unit to the body. Sight along the tube
to be sure the lug is parallel to the body tube before the glue
sets. Apply glue fillets to the lug after the initial glue joint has
dried.
Read “LAUNCHER Glue
DESIGN” starting on
page 9 for launch lug
placement.
Plain
9. PARACHUTE Stand-Off
ASSEMBLY
The most common model rocket recovery system is the para-
chute. On page 11 you will find alternate recovery systems.
Estes parachutes are now fully assembled. To assemble an
unassembled parachute, cut out the plastic parachute along
the dotted lines. Apply the six vinyl tape rings to the corners of
the parachute and punch holes through the parachute material
in the center of the tape rings using a sharp pencil. Cut three
equal length shroud lines that are twice as long as the para-
chute diameter. Tie both ends of the shroud lines through the
holes in the tape rings, as shown.
To attach the parachute to the nose cone or adapter eyelet,
thread the shroud lines through the eyelet, pass the parachute
through the loop of shroud lines as shown, then pull the lines tight.
In addition to regular, pre-printed model rocket parachutes,
you can assemble custom parachutes using a wide variety of
thin plastic sheeting. When making a chute from scratch, cut
the plastic sheet to shape, then attach shroud lines as shown
previously. Carpet thread makes excellent shroud lines.
Parachute Shape
The most common parachute shapes are square, round,
hexagonal and octagonal. While square parachutes are the eas-
iest to make, they are not very efficient and allow a consider-
able amount of sway during descent. Round parachutes are
very stable in descent, but are more difficult to make.
Hexagonal and octagonal parachutes are stable and reasonably
easy to make. The accompanying drawings illustrate methods
for making these shapes.

Snap Swivel Assembly
It’s often worthwhile to attach your parachute to a snap swiv-
el to allow the ‘chute to be easily removed. This lets you
change parachute size in response to different wind conditions,
or swap ‘chutes between models. A snap swivel has an eyelet
on one end and a wire snap hook on the other. The swivel con-
nection in between helps keep your parachute lines from tan-
gling up if the ‘chute rotates on descent. Snap swivels are
available where fishing supplies are sold.
10. CONNECT IT TOGETHER
The first illustration shows how nose cone, parachute and
rocket are connected on most models. If the rocket has a
heavy payload section, it’s a good idea to use two chutes as
shown in the second picture.
11. CUTTING TUBES
When building custom design rockets or replacing damaged
tubes on your models, you will often need to cut a specific
length body tube. Here’s how to get a neat cut every time.
(1) Mark the tube at the point where the cut is to be made.
Wrap a straight strip of paper around the tube and align the
edge with the mark. Draw a line completely around the tube.
You can also use the pencil holder on the Estes Tube Marking
Guide to draw the line.
Draw Line
(2) Slide a stage coupler or expended engine casing into the
tube — center it under the cut position to support the tube.
(3) Using a sharp blade, cut lightly along the line, rotating
the tube as you cut. Don’t try to cut all the way through on the
first turn. Use a light pressure on the knife for several turns
until you cut through.
Apply Light
Even Pressure
4 or 5 Turns Of
Tube Will Cut Clean
(4) Slide the stage coupler into the cut end of the tube. Hold
the tube near the cut end and work it over a flat sheet of very
fine sandpaper, with a circular motion, to remove burrs and
rough edges.
12. CLEAR PAYLOAD SECTIONS
Models that have a clear plastic payload section present a
special problem: White glue will not bond the plastic to a balsa
nose block. To overcome this, apply tape strips to the inside of
the payload tube, then glue the balsa nose block to the tape
strips using white glue.
6 engine casing glued onto a wooden dowel also makes a great
Wrap tape around
Tape Strips On nose cone shoulder
Inside Of Payload for friction fit
Section
Glue
Adapter
FINISHING
The finish of a rocket starts with the very first steps of assem-
bly. Sloppy gluing and other messy habits will ruin the appear-
ance of a rocket so that nothing can be done to get the perfect
appearance which is desired. On the other hand, careful con-
struction will make a model look good even before the paint is
applied. A model with a smooth finish not only looks more pro-
fessional, it experiences less drag in flight, so it flies higher.
The degree of difficulty in finishing a model rocket depends
on the materials used in its construction. Models with plastic
nose cones and fins are the easiest to finish. Some come with
all pre-colored parts and require no finishing at all. Models
built with balsa parts require extra steps to produce a smooth,
shiny finish.
1. SANDING AND SEALING BALSA PARTS
To get a smooth finish, the wood grain of the balsa must be
filled. Many suitable types of spray primers and wood fillers
are available at hobby shops and hardware stores. Spray
primers are widely available and work great. Water-based
wood fillers have no noxious fumes; you may need to add water
to thin them to a brushable consistency.
Paint cannot replace sandpaper. If a balsa surface is not
sanded and sealed carefully, it will be impossible to get a
smooth paint job. Begin by sanding all balsa surfaces with
extra-fine sandpaper until smooth.
Balsa Sanded
But Untreated
Next, apply a coat of spray primer to the balsa. Let this dry
completely, then sand with 320 grit (or finer) sandpaper, until
the surface is smooth again. Apply more primer, repeating the
procedure until all the pores in the balsa are filled.
1st, Coat… Sanded Surface
Note Grain Depression
Practically all of the spray primer should be sanded off after
each coat. This is because the purpose of the primer is to fill in
the holes, not the smooth areas of the balsa.
2nd, Coat 3rd, Coat… Sanded
… Again Sanded 'Till Surface Is Smooth
Slight Depression Depressions Are Filled
Remains
2. SPRAY PAINTING THE MODEL
Using a good enamel spray paint is the easiest way for a
novice to get a smooth, uniform finish on a model rocket.
Other types of paints can be used, but be wary of mixing differ-
ent types of paint on the same model; paint compatibility prob-
lems may cause the model’s finish to wrinkle or “craze”. If in
doubt, test the compatibility of different paints on a piece of
scrap material. Paint fumes can be harmful; only paint out-
doors or in a well-ventilated area.
To hold the model during painting, make a “painting wand”
by rolling a sheet of newspaper into a very long, narrow cone
and inserting it into the rocket’s engine mount. An expended

painting wand, especially for heavier models. Before painting,
wipe the model with a clean, slightly damp cloth to remove any
dust from its surface.
3. PRIMER COAT (Optional)
While not necessary, a coat of sandable primer provides a
uniform base color and a better bonding surface for the paint
layers; it also helps fill any remaining minor surface imperfec-
tions. Spray on the primer in thin coats until the model is a
uniform color. When the primer is completely dry, lightly sand
the surface with 400 grit (or finer) sandpaper.
4. BASE COLOR
The base color is the lightest of the colors to be used on the
model. Usually this will be white. If the model is to be painted
with fluorescent colors, the base coat must be white.
Always spray on the paint in light, even coats, allowing the
model to dry between each coat. Trying to cover the model
with one thick coat of paint will only result in paint runs.
Several thin coats will also dry faster than a single thick coat.
When the first coat has dried completely, sand lightly with
extremely fine sandpaper. Wipe off any dust and apply anoth-
er coat. Let this dry, then follow with additional light coats
until the model has a clear, pure color.
Let the base coat dry completely in a warm, dust-free area.
Allow the model to dry a full day if it is to be masked for addi-
tional colors.
Move Can Don’t
Parallel To Forget The
Work Ends And
8” To 10” Edges
From Body “Sag” Or “Run”
Results From
Holding Can Too
Close To Work
5. THE SECOND COLOR
When the base color has dried completely, cover all areas on
the model which are to remain this color. Cover small areas
with masking tape. Large areas should be covered with typing
paper, held down at the edges with masking tape. It’s impor-
tant to seal the tape down tightly along the edge. Masking tape
that is too sticky may pull up the base color paint when
removed; if you have this problem, you can stick the tape to
you skin before applying it to the model to remove some of its
tackiness.
Areas To Receive
Second Color
Areas To Remain
Original Color
With the model masked, apply an additional thin coat of the
first color to finish sealing the edges of the tape. When this is
dry, apply the second color in several thin coats. Use just
enough paint to get good color. After the last coat is dry,
remove the masking carefully to avoid peeling the paint. A
third color would be applied in the same way as the second.
6. FINAL TOUCHES
For best results, let the paint dry overnight before applying
decals. Some models have self adhesive decals; these must be
positioned very carefully before pressing into place, since they
can not be moved once they are stuck down.
To apply a water-transferable decal, first cut it out of the
decal sheet, then soak it in lukewarm water for 60 seconds or
until it begins to slide on the backing sheet. Slide the decal so
that one edge is off the backing. Position this edge on the
model and hold it in place while pulling the backing out from
under. Smooth the decal down with a damp finger, then blot
away any excess water with a rag or paper towel.
7 rocket will swing back into line and continue on its way.
Dip Decal
In Water
Slide Decal From
The Backing Sheet
Blot Away
Excess Water
After the decals have dried completely, spray the model with
clear acrylic coating to protect the finish. Apply the clear
spray in several thin coats, allowing time for each coat to dry.
If the model was finished with fluorescent paint, apply a light
coat of clear spray before applying decals.
STABILITY
One of the first things a model rocket designer learns is that a
vehicle will not fly unless it is aerodynamically stable. By sta-
ble we mean that it will tend to keep its nose pointed in the
same direction throughout its upward flight. Good aerodynam-
ic stability will keep the rocket on a true flight path even
though some force (such as an off-center engine) tries to turn
the model off course.
If a model is not stable, it will constantly turn its nose away
from the intended flight path. As a result it will try to go all
over the sky, but end up going “nowhere.” An unstable rocket
will usually tumble to earth after the engine burns out, damag-
ing the model.
When a free-flying object
rotates, it always rotates
around its balance point. The
proper term for the balance
point is the center of gravity,
abbreviated as CG. Thus the
balance point (CG) is the pivot
for all forces trying to turn the
rocket.
The most significant forces acting on a model rocket in flight
are caused by the thrust of the engine, the action of air on the
nose and the action of air on the fins. Off-center thrust and
forces on the nose try to bring the nose of the rocket around to
the rear. They are opposed by the forces acting on the fins. All
these forces are amplified by the distance from the location of
the force to the center of gravity.
As long as the forces on the fins of the rocket are great
enough to counteract the forces on the nose and any off-center
thrust, the rocket will fly straight. If the fins are too small
and/or too close to the center of gravity, there will not be
enough force to counteract the force on the nose. As a result,
the nose will swing out to the side and the model will try to
chase itself around the sky.
Force On Left Side Can Be 2
Balanced By… oz 1
oz
2 … Large Force Close By, Or
oz Small Force Far Away
The side forces on the nose and fins of a rocket that is flying
straight are very small. When something disturbs the rocket
and it starts to rotate sideways, the side forces on both nose
and fins increase. (There is some aerodynamic force on the
body; however, it is small and can usually be ignored.)
Depending on the size and shape of the nose and fins and their
distances to the center of gravity, one will overpower the other
and force the rocket to turn its way. If the nose overpowers the
fins, it’s too bad. However, if the fins overpower the nose, the

Although determining the exact relationships between vari-
ous forces on a model rocket requires higher mathematics, cer-
tain practical rules can be used by even the beginning rocket
modeler to design stable rockets. The first rule is to use a long
body. Until you have considerable experience in designing
models, the length of the body tube used should be at least 10
times its diameter. This makes it easier to get enough distance
between the center of gravity and the fins.
The second rule is to make the fins large. The larger the fins,
the more force they will produce when the rocket starts to turn.
For the first few designs, use a fin which is at least as large as
the example in the illustration.
10d
d Nose Forward
2d
1-1/2d
Minimum Fin Size
d
Example:
Rocket 12" Long
d= Body Tube 1.5" Ahead Of Fins
Diameter
Rocket Should Balance Here
The third rule is to place the fins as far back on the rocket as
possible. Generally, this means that the rear edge of the fin
will meet the rear end of the body and the fin will be swept
back. Do not place any fins ahead of the center of gravity!
Finally, the rocket should balance at least 1/8 its length
ahead of the front of the fins. This gives the fins the leverage
they will need to counteract the force on the nose.
Remember that these rules are general; they are based on
experience rather than precise mathematical analysis. Always
remember to test your model for stability before you launch it.
SWING TESTING FOR STABILITY
The easiest way to test the stability of a model is to fly it —
without launching it. Do this by attaching a string to the model
and swinging it through the air. If the string is attached at the
rocket’s CG, its behavior as it is swung through the air will indi-
cate what it will do in powered flight.
Test your model by forming a loop in the end of a six to ten
foot long string. Install an engine in the rocket; use the heavi-
est engine you expect to fly in the model. (The center of gravi-
ty is always determined with an engine in place.) Slide the
loop to the proper position around the rocket so the model bal-
ances horizontally. Apply a small piece of tape to hold the
string in place.
With the rocket suspended at its center of gravity, swing it
overhead in a circular path. If the rocket is very stable, it will
point forward into the wind created by its own motion. Some
rockets which are stable will not point forward of their own
“Starting” A Rocket
8 cord, then slide the nose cone into place.
accord unless they are started straight. This is done by holding
the rocket in one hand with the arm extended and then pivot-
ing the entire body as the rocket is started in the circular path.
It may take several attempts before a good start is achieved.
If it is necessary to hold the rocket to start it, an additional
test should be made to determine when the model is stable
enough to fly. Move the loop back on the body until the tube
points down at a 10° angle below the horizontal. Repeat the
swing test. If the model will keep its nose pointed ahead once
started, it should be stable enough to launch.
Double Check A Rocket With
Questionable Stability As
Follows:
Move String Back Until
Nose Of Rocket Points
Ten Degrees Down -
Repeat The
Swing Test
0°
-5°
-10°
-15°
Rocket Should Still "Fly"
Be careful when swinging a rocket overhead: A collision with
a nearby object or person could be serious. Always do your
testing in an open, uncluttered area.
Don’t try to fly a rocket that has not passed the test. Most
unstable rockets loop around in the air harmlessly. However, a
few marginally unstable models will make a couple of loops
and then become stable due to a CG shift as the propellant
burns. When this happens, the model can crash into the
ground at high speed.
If your rocket does not pass the stability test, it can usually
be made stable. Two methods can be used: The balance point
can be moved forward, or the fin area can be enlarged. To
move the balance point forward, add weight to the nose cone.
For models with hollow plastic nose cones, pack some clay into
the tip of the nose. To add weight to balsa nose cones, attach
washers to the base of the cone. The CG can also be moved for-
ward by adding a payload section to the model. Fins can either
be replaced with larger ones or extra tabs can be glued to the
rear or tip edges of the fins. Additional fins could also be
added to the model. Some scale models use supplementary
clear plastic fins. After making your changes, swing test the
model again to be sure it is now stable.
Add A Nose Cone Weight…
Clay
… Or Add A Tab To Each Fin
Here Here Or Both
PREPARING FOR FLIGHT
Parachutes and streamers must be protected from the heat of
the ejection charge by using flame-resistant recovery wadding.
NEVER use regular tissue paper in place of flame-resistant
wadding! Ordinary tissue paper will continue to smolder after
ejection and can cause dangerous grass fires.
Loosely pack enough flame-resistant recovery wadding into
the tube to fill it for a depth of at least twice the body diameter.
The wadding should fit against the side of the tube all the way
around to give a good seal.
To fold the parachute, hold it between two fingers at its cen-
ter and pass the other hand down it to form a “spike” shape.
Fold this spike into several sections as shown. Pack shroud
lines and shock cord in on top of the wadding. Push the folded
‘chute down into the tube on top of the shroud lines and shock

If the parachute has been packed in the model for an extend-
ed period, re-pack the ‘chute just prior to launch. Dusting the
parachute with talcum powder before packing will also increase
the chances of a successful deployment. It is especially impor-
tant to follow these precautions on cold days because the low
temperature makes the plastic parachute material less flexible.
Check the fit of the nose cone on the model: If it is too tight,
see if the shock cord or shroud lines were trapped between the
nose cone shoulder and the body tube. If the nose is still too
tight, sand the shoulder of the nose cone or the inside of the body
tube with fine sandpaper. If the nose cone fit is too loose, wrap
tape on the shoulder to adjust the fit. The nose cone should sepa-
rate easily, but should not fall off if the rocket is inverted.
To deploy the streamer or parachute recovery gear correctly,
the engine MUST be held in place SECURELY. This may be
done by wrapping the engine with tape until it makes a snug fit
in the body tube or engine mount.
On models using engine holders, make sure the end of the
holder latches securely over the end of the engine.
B6-4
®
IGNITER INSTALLATION
For safety reasons, do not install igniters in model rocket
engines until you are ready to fly the rocket. Never connect a
launch control system to an igniter installed in a rocket engine
unless the model is on a launch pad. Never ignite a rocket
engine indoors.
Use scissors to separate the igniters; leave the paper strip
attached to the igniter wires. Hold the engine nozzle end up,
then insert the igniter into the nozzle as far as it will go. To
operate properly, the tip of the igniter MUST touch the propel-
lant. Insert the igniter plug into the nozzle and firmly push it
all the way in. Be sure to use the correct color-coded igniter
plug for the engine to insure proper fit. Bend the ends of the
igniter wires back; this provides a larger area for attaching the
micro-clips.
6V or 12VDC
Power Source
Safety Key
Switch
If an igniter plug is not available, roll a 1” square of flame-
proof recovery wadding into a ball and insert it into the nozzle
alongside the igniter wires using the point of a pen or pencil.
Press the wadding ball firmly in place.
9 ty. The model must be guided until it is moving fast enough for
LAUNCHING
Model rockets, like professional rockets, are launched electri-
cally. This provides both safety and realism. Each engine sold
by Estes Industries is supplied with an igniter, igniter plug,
and complete instructions; still more information is supplied
with launcher kits. However, the basic information needed to
launch models successfully is included in these pages.
1 LAUNCH CONTROL SYSTEMS
The electrical launch system controls the flow of electrical
current to the igniter. Safety features built into the controller
insure that current does not reach the igniter until it is time to
launch. An Estes launch controller is shown below:
Safety Key
Continuity
Check Light
Launch Button
Micro
Clips
Launch Wires
All launch control systems work by passing electrical current
through the high-resistance wire in the tip of the igniter; this
current heats the wire, which ignites the coating on the igniter,
which in turn ignites the engine. The launch system is attached
to the igniter with micro-clips, one clip on each igniter wire.
When connecting the micro-clips to the igniter, make sure the
clips do not touch each other or the rod or blast deflector. If
they do touch, the current from the battery will “short” through
the clips, rod, or deflector and not reach the igniter. Micro-
clips become corroded with use; use sandpaper to clean the
inside of the clip jaws to insure good electrical contact.
All launch control systems must have a spring return launch
button so the current turns off automatically when the button is
released. In addition, a removable safety interlock (“safety key”)
must be provided; this could be an electrical key-switch or an
insertable metal pin. Estes’ launch controllers have a removable
spring-return safety key also. Both the key and launch button
must be pressed down for launch. When the safety key is
removed or not held down, the launch controller cannot complete
the electrical circuit to send current to the igniter. ALWAYS
remove the safety key and carry it with you when you go hook
up the igniter! This insures that no one could activate the
launch controller while your hands are near the rocket nozzle.
Any homemade electrical launch control system must include
all the safety features outlined above. See the Estes publica-
tion “Model Rocket Launch Systems” for more details. A typi-
cal launch controller circuit is shown below:
Continuity Check Micro Clips
Light
Launch
Switch
This circuit includes a continuity check light. This is a small bulb (no
more than 1/4 amp for safety) that lights when a complete circuit exists
between battery and igniter; this indicates that the rocket can be
launched. If the continuity check bulb does not light when the safety
interlock is closed, remove safety key and check to see if the micro-clips
are properly connected to the igniter. ALWAYS remove safety key
before approaching the rocket.
2. LAUNCHER DESIGN
A model rocket cannot be simply set on its fins and launched
since the rocket requires a fast airflow over its fins for stabili-
the fins to operate; the launcher provides this initial guidance.

Most model rockets are guided during launch by an 1/8”
diameter, 32” long launch rod (heavier models require thicker
rods for extra strength). A short tube, called the launch lug, is
glued to the side of the rocket. This tube slips easily over the
rod and keeps the rocket pointed in the right direction during
launch. A single launch lug should be mounted near the bal-
ance point of the rocket; two lugs located either side of the CG
provide better support for longer models.
8) Be certain the safety key is not in the launch controller!
Place the rocket on the launcher. Clean and attach the
micro-clips.
7) Clear the area, check for low flying aircraft, alert the
recovery crew, trackers, and spectators.
6) Insert the safety key into the launch controller and hold
down. Give an audible count down: 5) 4) 3) 2) 1)
5) Push launch button while safety key is held down.
LAUNCH!

TRACKING
Steel Rod
Launch Lug The easiest way to measure how high a rocket flies is to visu-
ally “track” the model using a tracking instrument, then “trian-
Blast Deflector gulation” is used to determine the altitude. The tracking
instrument is used to measure the angle between the ground
and the line of sight to the
rocket at its peak altitude.
This angle is called the
The blast deflector is a metal plate that prevents the engine “elevation” angle. When the Elevation
exhaust from hitting the launch pad or ground, preventing elevation angle and the dis- Angle

fires. Heavier rockets will require thicker launch rods and a tance from tracker to launcher
launcher with a heavier base. Bricks or rocks can be used to are known, it is very easy to Tracking Launch
Station Site
weight the base when extra-large models are being launched. determine the altitude. Baseline
When building a launch pad be sure to use a base that is big
enough and heavy enough to provide a secure foundation. A TRACKERS
piece of 3/4” plywood a foot square works well for most rock- The Estes® Altitrak is one of the best all-around basic track-
ets; a larger base made from two-by-fours easily handles one ing devices. However, it is easy to construct a simple tracker:
pound models. A plastic protractor is attached to a ruler as shown. Tie a
weighted string through the small hole at the “center” of the
3. LAUNCH SAFETY protractor. When sighting along the edge of the ruler toward
the horizon, the string should hang by the 0 mark on the pro-
Only launch model rockets from a large open area. Make tractor; when sighting at a point in the sky, the position of the
sure the ground around the launcher is clear and has no dry string will indicate the elevation angle.
weeds or highly flammable materials. Always cover the launch
rod with the launch rod caps! After sliding the rocket onto the Ruler Estes
launch rod, replace the cap on the rod before hooking up the Tape Altitrak
igniter. The cap protects you from accidental eye injury from Protractor I

II
I I I I I I 40
MOD

the rod. If the cap is not available, put your hand on the end of
EL
ROC
ROCK
KET
ET
AL
20 30 TIT
UD
EFIN
DE
R

the rod before leaning over. Remove cap for launching.

Immediately before launching a rocket, check for low-flying
aircraft. If there are other people in the launch area,
announce the launch loudly to get their attention, followed by
an audible five-second countdown.
After a successful launch, remember to remove the safety key
from the controller and replace the cap on the launch rod. If the
rocket becomes entangled in a power line or other dangerous
place, to avoid injury DO NOT attempt to retrieve the model!
4. LAUNCH AREAS
Choose a large field away from power lines, tall trees, and
low-flying aircraft. It should be free of easy-to-burn materials.
The length of the smallest side of the field should be at least
one fourth of the rocket’s expected maximum altitude. The
Model Rocket Safety Code contains a table of minimum field
dimensions for each engine size.
COUNTDOWN CHECKLIST
Use a countdown check list when you launch your models.
You’ll find it makes your rocket flights more successful and
enjoyable. The following procedure is recommended for most
parachute or streamer models. For other types of rockets, try
to develop your own complete check list.
12) Pack flame-resistant recovery wadding into the body tube.
Insert the parachute or streamer.
11) Install the nose cone or payload section, checking for prop-
er fit. Check condition of the payload (if any).
10) Apply enough masking tape to the engine(s) for a tight fric-
tion fit in the body tube (if required for this model). When
launching a multi-stage rocket be sure that the engines are
in their proper relative positions and that a layer of cello-
phane tape is wrapped tightly around each engine joint.
Mount the engine(s) in the rocket. If the rocket uses
engine holders, check that the holder proper hooks the
rear end of the engine.
9) Install an igniter in each engine.
®
Weighted
String
The distance from the launch area to the tracking station
should be approximately equal to the altitude expected for an
average rocket flight to be tracked. This distance is called the
“baseline” and its length should be carefully measured. The
tracker should have a clear view of the launch area and should
not be looking into the sun.
Before launch, alert the person at the tracking station. When
the tracker signals readiness, the rocket can be launched. The
tracker sights along the tracking instrument and follows the
rocket as it rises. When the rocket reaches its peak altitude,
the tracker “locks” the tracking instrument. An Altitrak is
locked by releasing the trigger. To lock the homemade tracker,
the operator uses a finger to clamp the string in place before
moving the instrument (this takes practice!). The elevation
angle is then read from the tracker.
Find the tangent of the elevation angle from the table at the end
of this section, or using a scientific calculator (enter the angle,
then press the TAN key). Multiply this tangent by the baseline
length (the distance from the tracker to launcher) to find the rock-
et’s altitude. The Altitrak gives a direct readout of the altitude,
assuming the tracker is located 150 meters from the launch pad.
A single tracker gives best results on calm days. Wind inter-
feres with accuracy since models tend to tilt over into the wind as
they fly. The result is that the rocket will not be straight over the
launch site at peak altitude,
but instead will be some
distance over in the direc-
tion of the wind. To keep
error due to wind drift to a WIN
INDD
minimum, locate the track-
er at a 90° angle to the
wind direction as shown.
For better accuracy, use
two tracking stations on 90°
opposite sides of the
10 launch pad, or place more than one tracker at each station.
The easiest way of calculating rocket height using multiple
 TABLE OF TANGENTS
Angle Tan Angle Tan Angle Tan Angle Tan Angle Tan
1 .02 17 .31 33 .65 49 1.15 65 2.14
2 .03 18 .32 34 .67 50 1.19 66 2.25
3 .05 19 .34 35 .70 51 1.23 67 2.36
4 .07 20 .36 36 .73 52 1.28 68 2.48
5 .09 21 .38 37 .75 53 1.33 69 2.61
6 .11 22 .40 38 .78 54 1.38 70 2.75
7 .12 23 .42 39 .81 55 1.43 71 2.90
8 .14 24 .45 40 .84 56 1.48 72 3.08
9 .16 25 .47 41 .87 57 1.54 73 3.27
10 .18 26 .49 42 .90 58 1.60 74 3.49
11 .19 27 .51 43 .93 59 1.66 75 3.73
12 .21 28 .53 44 .97 60 1.73 76 4.01
13 .23 29 .55 45 1.00 61 1.80 77 4.33
14 .25 30 .58 46 1.04 62 1.88 78 4.70
15 .27 31 .60 47 1.07 63 1.96 79 5.14
16 .29 32 .62 48 1.11 64 2.05 80 5.67

trackers is to find the altitude for each tracker and then take
the average of these altitude figures. More complete informa-
tion on basic altitude tracking is contained in Estes Industries
Technical Report TR-3.
RECOVERY SYSTEMS
The recovery system is one of the most important parts of a
model rocket. It is designed to provide a safe means of return-
ing the rocket and its payload to earth without damaging it or
presenting a hazard to persons on the ground. Also, the recov-
ery system provides an area for competition when rocket flyers
hold contests to see whose rocket can remain aloft the longest.
In addition, rocket recovery is an area for valuable experimen-
tation and research as modelers develop new and better meth-
ods of returning their rockets to earth.
Most recovery systems in use today depend on drag (or wind
resistance) to slow the rocket. Each changes the model from a
streamlined object to one which the air can “catch against” and
retard its descent. Six main recovery methods are used by
model rocketeers today:
1 half-way up; this prevents the ‘chute from opening fully so the
3 parachute.
PROBLEM (2) Parachute or streamer is melted or scorched
by hot ejection gases.
SOLUTION: Be sure you have used sufficient recovery
wadding to fill a length of two body diameters.
PROBLEM (3) Nose cone fails to separate from body tube.
SOLUTION: Check fit of nose cone in the body tube; be sure
no shroud lines are trapped by nose shoulder. Parts should
separate easily, but not be loose. If fit is too tight, sand inside
of body tube or nose cone shoulder with fine sandpaper.
PROBLEM (4) Nose cone falls off before ejection.
SOLUTION: Fit is too loose. Wrap masking tape on shoul-
der of nose cone for a snug but not tight fit.
PROBLEM(5) Parachute deploys, but wind carries rocket
away.
SOLUTION: In windy conditions replace the parachute
with smaller ‘chute or streamer. Or, “reef” the ‘chute by
applying a wrap of tape around the parachute shroud lines,
model falls faster. Or, cut a spill hole in the center of the

PROBLEM (6) Hole or crack in rocket allowing ejection gases

5 to leak through.
SOLUTION: Construction at rear of rocket must be air tight
when engine is in place.

PROBLEM (7) Failure to deploy recovery device because

2 6 body tube is too large for proper pressurization.
SOLUTION: Add a stuffer tube, usually made from BT-20 or
4
BT-50. Center stuffer tube inside rocket with paper rings and
glue securely in place. Stuffer tube reduces area to be pres-
surized.

MULTI-STAGING
1. IGNITION
1. Featherweight Recovery, 2. Streamer Recovery, 3. Tumble The first stage of a multi-stage rocket is always ignited by
Recovery, 4. Parachute Recovery, 5. Helicopter Recovery, 6. standard electrical means. Second stage ignition occurs auto-
Glide Recovery. matically upon burnout of the first stage. Figure 1A shows that
the first stage engine has no delay or ejection charge. This
gives instant ignition of the next stage at burnout.
Some of the most common errors causing recovery system
failures are listed below with their solution.
PROBLEM (1) Engine not held securely and ejects, instead of
recovery device being deployed.
SOLUTION: On models with engine holder hooks, make
sure hook latches properly over end of engine. If engine is
held by friction fit, wrap enough masking tape around
engine to hold it tightly. 11
 In figure 1B the propellant is partially burned, leaving a large
combustion chamber. As the propellant continues to burn, the
wall of propellant becomes thinner until it cannot withstand
the high pressure inside the chamber. At this point the remain-
ing propellant wall ruptures, and the high pressure blows for-
ward toward the nozzle of the next stage, carrying hot gases
and small pieces of burning propellant into the nozzle of the
second stage engine. This action is illustrated in figure 1C.
For this system to work, the stages must be held together
until the upper stage engine has ignited. When this happens,
the stages must then separate in a straight line. This is accom-
plished by wrapping one layer of cellophane tape around the
joint between engines and then recessing this joint 1/2” rear-
ward in the booster body tube, as in figure 2. Recessing the
joint forces the stages to separate in a straight line.
1/2”
Cellophane
Tape
Booster
Engine Body Tube
Masking Tape Joint Joint
Figure 2 shows the engine installation in a typical two-stage
model. Always tape the engines together before inserting them
into the rocket. IMPORTANT: Check carefully before and after
taping to be sure the engines are in the in proper positions
(nozzle of upper stage engine against top end of booster
engine). Failure to check carefully can be highly embarrassing
as well as damaging to the rocket.
Masking Tape
Cellophane
Tape
After taping the engines together, wrap masking tape around
the upper stage engine at the front and near the rear as in fig-
ure 3 to give it a tight fit in the body. Push it into place. Wrap
the booster engine and push it into position. Failure to get the
upper stage engine in place tightly enough will result in the
recovery system malfunctioning; failure to secure the booster
stage tightly can result in its dropping off under acceleration.
Rockets using large diameter tubes (BT-50 and BT-60) require
somewhat different methods, but the same principles of tight
coupling and straight line separation must be followed. The
recommended coupling method for large diameter tubes is
illustrated in figure 4A. The stage coupler is glued to the boost-
er body tube, with the motor adapter for the upper stage
engine mount positioned forward to allow the stage coupler to
fit into the upper stage, while the motor adapter of the booster
engine mount is positioned to the rear.
12
The upper stage engine holder tube projects 1/4” rearward
from the end of the upper body tube. The engine is held in
place by wrapping a layer of masking tape TIGHTLY around the
end of the tube and the end of the engine as in figure 4B. The
engine mount in the booster must be built to leave space for
this system (see figure 4C). The booster engine is held in place
with a wrap of masking tape in the same manner as the upper
stage engine.
Masking Tape
FIG. 4C
Cellophane Tape
Masking Tape
Adapter Ring
Adapter Ring
Engine Block
Engine
Mount Tube
In some multi-stage models the engines cannot be coupled
directly together with cellophane tape, such as the case where
a D12 is staged to a standard size engine. In this case, use
masking tape on the stage couplers as needed to achieve a
tight fit between stages, to prevent separation before upper
stage ignition.
2. STABILITY
Since two or more engines are mounted near the rear of a
multi-stage rocket, it has a tendency to be tail-heavy. To com-
pensate for this, larger fins are often used on the lower stage.
Each additional stage requires even greater fin areas. This
effect can be minimized if the upper stage is fairly long,
increasing the stability of the model.
When checking for stability, test first the upper stage alone,
then add the next lower stage and test, and so on. In this way
you can be sure that the rocket will be stable in each step of its
flight, and you can locate any stage which does not have suffi-
cient fin area. Always check for stability with the heaviest
engines to be used in place.
3. BOOSTER RECOVERY
Most lower stages are designed to be unstable after separa-
tion. The booster should be built so that the center of the area
of the fin (its balance point) matches or is up to 1/4” ahead of
the booster’s balance point with an expended engine casing in
place. Thus, boosters will require no parachute or streamer,
but will normally tumble, flutter, or glide back to the ground. A
booster stage should be painted an especially bright color
because it does not have parachute or streamer to aid in spot-
ting it once it is on the ground.
4. TYPES OF ENGINES
Lower and intermediate stages always use engines which
have no delay element, and no parachute ejection charge. No
delay is used so that the next stage will receive the maximum
velocity from its booster. Suitable engines have designations
with a “0” delay, such as the B6-0, C6-0, D12-0, and A10-0T.
In the upper stage an engine with a delay and a parachute
ejection charge is used. As a general rule the longest possible
delay should be used. Engines suitable for upper stage use are
those with long delays such as the A8-5, B4-6, C6-7, D12-7, etc.
 CLUSTERING
When large models and heavy payloads have to be launched,
one engine often cannot supply enough power. A cluster of sev-
eral engines can be used in this case.
ENGINE ARRANGEMENTS
In designing a clustered model the first rule to remember is
that thrust must be balanced around the centerline of the rock-
et. Figure 1 shows several engine arrangements that satisfy
this requirement. All engines should be located close together
to keep unbalanced thrust from forcing the model off course.
FIG. 1
CLUSTER IGNITION METHODS
Reliable ignition is the most important part of successful clus-
tering. All engines must be ignited simultaneously; this
requires a heavy-duty launch controller that can supply high
current levels. The Estes Command Control launch controller
is designed specifically for cluster ignition. A custom designed
controller using a 12 volt car battery for the power supply and
a heavy gauge wiring is also suitable.
Carefully install igniters in the cluster engines using igniter
plugs in the normal way, making sure the tips of the igniters
are touching the propellant and are held firmly in place.
Igniters must be connected in parallel — not in series! The eas-
iest way to do this is using “clip whips.” Meticulously clean all
clips with sandpaper before hooking up the igniters. Every
igniter must be connected to one micro-clip from each clip
whip. Double-check that one and only one clip from each whip
is connected to every engine. At the launcher, check that none
of the igniter leads or micro-clips are shorted to each other, to
the blast deflector, or to the launch rod. Check one last time
that all clips are in place.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Use a heavy-duty launch pad such as the Estes Porta-Pad E™
launch pad with cluster models. When heavy rockets are being
flown, the launch pad should be anchored to the ground with
stakes or weights.
The Safety Code requires that you stand at least 30 feet away
when igniting an engine or cluster of engines totalling more
than 30 Newton-seconds of total impulse.
To legally fly rockets weighing more than one pound or using
engines containing more than four ounces of propellant, you
may need to notify the Federal Aviation Administration, or
obtain an FAA waiver, depending on the type of airspace con-
trol over your launch area.
Before installing the engines in your cluster rocket, pack the
front of each engine above the ejection end cap with flame-
resistant wadding. This eliminates the possibility of one
engine’s ejection charge igniting the ejection charge of an
unignited engine and damaging the rocket. For more complete
information on clustering, see Estes Technical Report TR-6 in
The Classic Collection.
13
PAYLOADS
Flying payloads on model rockets is an exciting and challeng-
ing activity for both novice and experienced rocket hobbyists.
A wide variety of payloads have been flown successfully on
model rockets.
Cameras: The Estes SnapShot Camera rocket allows even
novice rocket flyers to take aerial photos from 500 feet high.
Depending on the engine delay used, the photo can be a verti-
cal shot of the launch area or an oblique view of the nearby
landscape. Advanced modelers have adapted and flown auto-
sequence 35 mm cameras, movie cameras, and even video cam-
eras and digital cameras on rockets.
Electronic payloads: These payloads range from simple sonic
beacons that aid in recovering rockets that land in tall grass,
all the way to radio transmitters and miniature computers that
make temperature or altitude measurements during flight.
Eggs: Launching a raw egg and recovering it unbroken can
challenge the payload handling skills of any rocket flyer. The
egg must be properly padded to survive the flight; you may
want to enclose it in a plastic bag just in case!
Biological payloads: Except for insects, you should NEVER
launch a live animal in your rocket. The high launch accelera-
tion or a recovery failure could seriously injure or kill the ani-
mal. For a similar challenge, try flying a raw egg.
BOOST-GLIDERS
Boost-gliders are models which fly straight into the air like
any other rocket. However, they glide back to earth instead of
coming down suspended from a parachute.
There are several types of
boost-gliders, including: 1. Rear
engine, 2. Front engine, 3. Pop-pod, 4. Variable geometry, and
5. Parasite. Some boost gliders use radio control to allow the
modeler to pilot the glider. Although these types appear very
different, many of the same principles apply to all.
A boost-glider, as any other rocket, must be stable to fly
upward. During glide a model must still be stable, but not by
nearly so great a margin. Boost-gliders can accomplish the
transition from boost to glide configuration in several ways.
Some use a change in balance point, often by ejecting engine
pods; others use a shifting of aerodynamic surfaces; still others
use combinations of both methods. See TR-4 and TR-7 in “The
Classic Collection” for further discussion on gliders.
GLIDE TESTING
A boost-glider must be “trimmed” to glide correctly before
launching. Some models are trimmed by adjusting the posi-
tions of elevons or other aerodynamic control surfaces. Other
models are trimmed by adding or removing weight, such as
clay, to the nose or tail of the glider.
When trimming a model, give it a straight, smooth, level toss
into the wind and note how it glides. If it stalls, add weight to
the nose. If it dives, remove weight from the nose. If it turns
too much, place a very small weight on the wing tip which is on
the outside as it turns.
Glide Paths Observed As
Stall
Glider Is Tossed Lightly
Into The Wind From
Normal
Dive
Shoulder Height
 Few models are as spectacular in flight and as enjoyable to The second part of the engine code (the “6” in B6-4) gives the
watch as a good boost-glider. The modeler looking for a chal- AVERAGE THRUST of the engine, measured in Newtons. The
lenge will find that developing improved boost-glide designs is Newton is a measure of force; 1 pound equals 4.45 Newtons.
one of the most rewarding areas of research in model rocketry. The greater the thrust of an engine, the harder it pushes on the
rocket and the faster the rocket will accelerate. The B8 and B4
MODEL ROCKET ENGINES are both B engines (so they have the same total impulse) but
Today’s rocket flyers can choose from a large variety of the greater thrust of the B8 will cause a rocket to leap into the
engines to power their models, with an engine available for air much faster.
almost every purpose. NOTE: The rocket engine design and The third part of the engine code follows the dash (the “4” in
performance information given here is for educational purpos- B6-4); this number is the TIME DELAY, in seconds, between
es only. We believe that knowing how rocket engines work will burnout of the propellant and activation of the ejection charge.
increase your understanding of science and help you design This delay allows the rocket to coast to peak altitude before
better rockets for specific purposes. Manufacturing rocket deployment of the recovery system. The proper choice of delay
engines is an inherently dangerous activity that should only be time depends on how long it takes a rocket to reach peak alti-
attempted by professionals! tude with a particular engine. Engines with codes ending in
“-0” are booster engines; they do not contain delay and ejection
charges. There is also a special type of “plugged” engine with
OPERATION codes ending in “-P”; these are useful in radio-control gliders
The figures below show the internal structure and thrust where no ejection or booster blow-through is desired.
curve of a typical model rocket engine.
THRUST CURVES
Cross-Section View
Of B6-4 Engine Estes engines come in different types including end-burning
and semi-core-burning. The different thrust curve shapes of
these two types are primarily the result of the depth of the
“port” formed in the the propellant.
14.0
1/4A3-B6
Comparative 12.0 B4
B6
Thrust Curves Of 10.0 A10
(Pounds)

20
All Estes Engines A8

Thrust in Newtons
18 8.0
Thrust in newtons

Typical Thrust Curve – B6-4 Engine 1/2A6

16
Total Impulse = Average Thrust x Thrust Duration
C6-E9 6.0 A3 1/2A3
14 30.0
3
12 D12 4.0
10
2 Average 25.0 D11
8 Thrust 2.0
Ejection Charge C11
Thrust in Newtons

6 1/4A3
Activities 20.0
4 1 Delay Period No 0.0
Measurable Thrust 0 0.20 0.40 0.60 0.80 1.00 1.20
2 Time in Seconds
15.0

0.0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.2 1.4 1.6 4.0 5.0 E9
10.0
Time in Seconds
C6

The combustion of the solid propellant produces high temper- 5.0

ature, high pressure gases that are ejected through the nozzle. 0.0
The reaction to forcing the exhaust out the nozzle is a forward 0.00 0.50 1.00 1.50
Time in Seconds
2.00 2.50 3.00

thrust (an example of Newton’s Third Law of Motion). During

the thrust phase the model rocket accelerates upward, gaining
velocity and altitude.
After propellant burnout, the delay element is ignited. The
delay material is slow-burning; it produces tracking smoke, but
negligible thrust. The delay allows the rocket to coast to peak
altitude before igniting the ejection charge.
The rapidly-burning ejection charge produces a burst of gas
to pressurize the body tube and activate the recovery system of
the model.
ENGINE CODES
Model rocket engines are labeled with a three-part classifica-
tion code (“B6-4”, for example) that describes the performance
parameters of the engine. You must understand this code in
order to choose the proper engine for your model.
The first part of the engine code is a letter designating the
motor’s TOTAL IMPULSE class (the “B” in B6-4). You can think
of total impulse as the total power the engine produces.
Technically, total impulse is a measure of the momentum
change the engine can impart to the rocket, measured in
Newton-seconds. In practical terms, an engine with greater
total impulse can lift a rocket higher and faster, and can lift
heavier rockets, than an engine with lower total impulse. The
table below gives the total impulse ranges and typical rocket
performance for each class.
TYPE TOTAL
CODE IMPULSE
Newton-Sec
1/4 A 0 - 0.625
1/2 A 0.626 - 1.25
A 1.26 - 2.50
B 2.51 - 5.00
C 5.01 - 10.00
D 10.01 - 20.00
E
F
20.01 - 40.00
40.01 - 80.00
The most common model rocket engine is the end-burner,
which has a shallow port. This design is used in many Estes
engines and is especially effective with lightweight high perfor-
mance rockets. The high initial thrust boosts the rocket to a
suitable flying speed almost immediately; thrust then drops to
a lower sustaining level to maintain speed and gain the most
distance with the least fuel consumption.
For heavy rockets, especially those carrying large payloads,
semi-core-burning engines are available. These engines have
deeper ports, producing a very high initial thrust peak due to a
larger surface area for propellant burning.
SELECTING THE CORRECT ENGINE
Always use an appropriate engine to fly your rocket. Just
because an engine fits in the model does not mean it is a suit-
able engine! When flying an Estes rocket, consult the Estes
catalog or the kit instructions for a list of engines recommend-
ed for that model.
If the launch field is small, or if the weather conditions are
windy, use a lower total impulse engine to increase your
chances of recovering the rocket. If you are launching a heavy
payload in a model, it may be necessary to use an engine with a
shorter time delay than is recommended for the rocket without
a payload.
ALTITUDE RANGE APPROX. ALTITUDE OF ENGINEERING AND QUALITY CONTROL
OF TYPICAL MODELS 60 gram, BT-50 ROCKET
Today the Estes engine represents the result of ever 45 years’
meters meters
effort in engineering, craftsmanship and quality control. The
10 to 75 3 (not rec.)
total impulse of Estes engines is closely controlled, which
20 to 120 10
allows us to make our engines very near the maximum permis-
40 to 250 40
sible size in a given class.
60 to 400 110
80 to 600 260
Three out of every hundred engines made by Estes Industries
100 to 700 440
are static tested on a recording type of test stand which graphi-
cally records the maximum thrust, thrust variations, minimum
130 to 800
160 to 1000
760
N/A 14 thrust, overall thrust duration, length of time delay, and the
strength of the ejection charge. Any batch of engines which
does not meet rigid standards is discarded. All tolerances are
kept as small as possible so that these engines make excellent
propulsion units for contests, exhibitions and science studies.
SAFETY
Rocket engines are not toys, but scientific devices. With com-
mon sense and close adherence to safety rules, model rocketry
is as safe as any other sport, hobby, or scientific study.
Carelessness can make it dangerous, as with model airplanes,
baseball or swimming. If you are hit by a model rocket travel-
ing 300 or more miles per hour, you will be hurt. Use common
sense and follow the safety code. Don’t spoil model rocketry’s
excellent record of safety.
MODEL ROCKET PERFORMANCE
Several factors affect the altitude performance of model
rockets.
ENGINE SIZE
The greater the total impulse of an engine, the higher it will
boost a model. The approximate altitudes achieved by typical
single stage rockets are listed in the table on page 12; high per-
formance models can exceed these values. The kits, compo-
nents, and engines produced by Estes Industries have been
designed to cover the entire performance range from low alti-
tude sport and demonstration models to high altitude, high per-
formance payload and competition rockets.
WEIGHT
In most cases, the heavier a rocket, the lower the altitude it
will reach. A baseball can be tossed higher than an 8 pound
bowling ball; the same holds true for model rockets. In addi-
tion heavier rockets are more apt to tilt at an angle as they
leave the launcher, reducing altitude even more.
Weights listed for rocket kits in the catalog do not include
engines. To determine the lift-off weight of a model, add the
engine weight, shown in the engine selection chart, to the kit
weight. Remember to also add the weight of any payload car-
ried in the rocket.
Use high-thrust engines with heavy rockets to insure ade-
quate lift-off speed. The lift-off weight of the rocket must not
exceed the Maximum Liftoff Weight for the engine being used
(see the engine tables in your Estes catalog).
DRAG
Drag, or wind resistance, is the third item which affects per-
formance. The more drag on a rocket, the lower the altitude it
will reach. A number of factors determine the amount of drag
on a rocket. The more frontal area the rocket has, the greater
its drag will be. As a result, large diameter model rockets will
generally not reach as great an altitude as smaller diameter
rockets with the same engine power. Rough surfaces create
turbulence in the air as it flows past the rocket, increasing
drag. Smooth finishes will increase the capability of the model.
The stability of the rocket also affects drag — if it wobbles in
flight, it will have greater drag. Careful attention to reducing
drag can sometimes double a rocket’s altitude performance.
TIP:
KET
ROC
In
In most
most cases,
cases, baseball,
baseball,
soccer
soccer or
or football
football fields
fields
are
are great
great launch
launch areas!
areas!
15
NAR SAFETY CODE
1. MATERIALS. I will use only lightweight, non-metal parts
for the nose, body, and fins of my rocket.
2. MOTORS. I will use only certified, commercially-made
model rocket motors, and will not tamper with these motors or
use them for any purposes except those recommended by the
manufacturer.
3. IGNITION SYSTEM. I will launch my rockets with an elec-
trical launch system and electrical motor igniters. My launch
system will have a safety interlock in series with the launch
switch, and will use a launch switch that returns to the "off"
position when released.
4. MISFIRES. If my rocket does not launch when I press the
button of my electrical launch system, I will remove the
launcher's safety interlock or disconnect its battery, and will
wait 60 seconds after the last launch attempt before allowing
anyone to approach the rocket.
5. LAUNCH SAFETY. I will use a countdown before launch,
and will ensure that everyone is paying attention and is a safe
distance of at least 15 feet (4.6 m) away when I launch rockets
with D motors or smaller, and 30 feet (9 m) when I launch larg-
er rockets. If I am uncertain about the safety or stability of an
untested rocket, I will check the stability before flight and will
fly it only after warning spectators and clearing them away to a
safe distance.
6. LAUNCHER. I will launch my rocket from a launch rod,
tower, or rail that is pointed to within 30 degrees of the vertical
to ensure that the rocket flies nearly straight up, and I will use
a blast deflector to prevent the motor's exhaust from hitting
the ground. To prevent accidental eye injury, I will place
launchers so that the end of the launch rod is above eye level
or will cap the end of the rod when it is not in use.
7. SIZE. My model rocket will not weigh more than 53 ounces
(1500 grams) at liftoff and will not contain more than 4.4
ounces (125 grams) of propellant or 71.9 pound-seconds (320 N-
sec) of total impulse. If my model rocket weighs more than one
pound (453 grams) at liftoff or has more than 4 ounces (113
grams) of propellant, I will check and comply with Federal
Aviation Administration regulations before flying.
8. FLIGHT SAFETY. I will not launch my rocket at targets,
into clouds, or near airplanes, and will not put any flammable
or explosive payload in my rocket.
9. LAUNCH SITE. I will launch my rocket outdoors, in an
open area at least as large as shown in the accompanying table,
and in safe weather conditions with wind speeds no greater
than 20 miles per hour (32 km/h). I will ensure that there is
no dry grass close to the launch pad, and that the launch site
does not present risk of grass fires.
LAUNCH SITE DIMENSIONS
Installed Total Equivalent Minimum Site
Impulse Motor Type Dimensions
Feet Meters
.00 - 1.25 1/4A, 1/2A 50 15
1.26 - 2.50 A 100 30
2.51 - 5.00 B 200 60
5.01 - 10.00 C 400 120
10.01 - 20.00 D 500 150
20.01 - 40.00 E 1,000 300
40.01 - 80.00 F 1,000 300
80.01 - 160.00 G 1,000 300
160.01 -320.00 Two G’s 1,500 450
10. RECOVERY SYSTEM. I will use a recovery system such as
a streamer or parachute in my rocket so that it returns safely
and undamaged and can be flown again, and I will use only
flame-resistant or fireproof recovery system wadding in my
rocket.
11. RECOVERY SAFETY. I will not attempt to recover my
rocket from power lines, tall trees, or other dangerous places.
 PUBLICATIONS AVAILABLE FROM ESTES WEBSITES

Electronic Model Rocket News Altitude Prediction Charts - 2842

A simple system by which aerodynamic drag and other effects
Provides articles of interest, technical tips, information about
can be taken into account in predicting rocket peak altitudes.
new products, special offers, and much more. Available at
Technical Report TR-10.
www.estesrocket.com

Newton’s Laws of Motion and Model Rocketry - 2821
The three laws of motion are explained in easily understood
terms. Simple examples and experiments are included.
Aerodynamic Drag of Model Rockets - 2843
Gives practical examples of ways to minimize aerodynamic
drag and improve performance. Technical Report TR-11.

Estes Guide for Aerospace Clubs - 2817
The perfect source book for organizing and operating a suc-
cessful model rocket club or ESP chapter.
Elementary Mathematics of Model Rocket Flight - 2844
Information on how to make your own altitude tracker and cal-
culate speeds and accelerations. Technical Note TN-5.

Model Rocket Contest Guide - 2815 Model Rocketry Technical Manual - 2819
Handy guide for construction and flight of model rockets. Tips
Use to plan model rocket contests for clubs or schools. Details
on “scratch building”, launch systems, tracking, staging, boost-
on competitive events and suggestions on all facets of contest
gliders, and more.
organization.

Projects in Model Rocketry - 2831 Estes Educator News

Interesting technical articles, new product information, plus
Suggestions on how to plan, prepare, and present research pro-
activities and resources on space and model rocketry subjects
jects, ideas for about one hundred projects.
suitable for classroom use. Available at www.esteseducator.com.
Model Rocket Launch Systems - 2811
Guide for Teachers and Youth Group Leaders - 2814
Contains a wealth of information. Photographs and clearly-
Introduces you to Estes’ model rocket technology and the com-
drawn schematics make it easily understood.
plete services offered in our educational program.
The Classic Collection - 2845
Camp Leader’s Model Rocketry Manual - 2822
A comprehensive collection of technical reports and notes that
Proven guide for introducing model rocketry successfully into
make a valuable reference tool. Includes TR-1 through TR-7 and
camp programs.
TN-1, TN-3, TN-4, and TN-6.
Find all these informative publications at
Model Rocketry Study Guide - 2841 www.estesrockets.com or www.esteseducator.com.
A logical program for anyone who wants the most from model
rocketry. Guides a beginner on the path to becoming an expert
rocketeer.

Printed in China

www.estesrockets.com

Estes Industries
1295 H Street
Penrose, CO 81240 EST 2819