Hamiduddin et. al.

:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

Evolution of Cosmeticsand Cosmeceuticals in Unani Medicine:A historical perspective

'.Hamiduddin,'AkhtarAli,'Wasim Ahmad

'Lecturer, Dept. of llmul Saidla (Unani Pharmacy), 'Lecturer, Dept of Kulliyat, National lnstitute of Unani
Medicine, Kottigepalya, Magadi main Road, Bengaluru - 91

'Assistant Professor, Dept.of llmulsaidla (UnaniPharmacy), Z.H. UnaniMedicalCollage& Hospital, Siwan

*Correspo n d in g a utho r, Ema i I :d rh a m id 2003@ red iffm a i Lco m

Abstract
Since ancient time man has treated skin with care because it is easily visible and unprotected. Around
4000 BC first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in ancient EgyPt. The use of
perfumes, oils, burning of aromatic incense, copper eye shadows,lamp black for eyes and dying of hairs
red were in practice by ancient Egyptians. Cosmetic disease is a disease affecting only appearance.
Cosmetics (Mawad tajmil) and cosmeceuticals are applied for improvement of appearance. Ancient
Unani literature is very rich in cosmeceutical formulations taking care of appearance and dealing with
cosmetic diseases in humans. Evolution of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine was
explored by the work of eminent Unani (Greeko-Arabic) Physicians. Work of pre and post Hippocratic
era,Galen,labir ibnHayyan,'AllbinTabrl, al-Kindl, Zakarlyyaal-Razl, al-Qumrl, al-Majusl, al-Zohrawt,
,{vicenna, Abu Sahl al-Masihl, Ahmad QalyDbI, Ismail lurjanl, lbn Zuhr, Said lbn Haibatullah, Ibn Hubal,

Ibn al-Tilmldh, al-Samarqandl,IbnNafis, Da'ud al-Antakl,Ibn al-Atn Zurbl, Hakrm Hasan mirza.This
systematic review can be concluded that various cosmetics and cosmeceuticals prevailing in
contemporary era may have been introduced or inspired by these physicians. Invention of different types
of perfumes, deodorants and anti per-spirant, after-bath lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays, eye
care, skin care, hair care, hair and skin dye, formulations for hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation

skin disorders and nail care etc. They even described cosmetics for prevention from sunburn and air and
also drug for aesthetic problems of the body. These formulations and drugs are foundation of many
present day cosmeceuticals and they can be a good resource for development of effective and innovative
cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. They can be a very good choice owing to their range, low cost and safety
and can also be incorporated as an adjuvant in several contemporarypreparations.

Keywords: Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals, Unani Medicine, historical, Greek, formulations

Introduction early period, they used vegetable leaves, flower, color,

The use of cosmetics as a substance to enhance or animal part, stones, shell etc to adorn there body'since
protect the beauty ofthe human body dates back to very antiquity man has treated skin with care because it is

fournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2) 72

 Hamiduddin et. al.:Evohtion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine
Leasily visible and unprotected and its disorders can be
obnoxious, abominable and can also be deadly. Skin
disease or cosmetic disease are taken to be social illness
regardless of their organic aspects, physician had to
handle these carefully during its early stages itself.'The
word'cosmetae'was first used to describe Roman slaves
whose role was to bathe men and women in perfume'.
Ancient Unani literature is full of herbal / traditional
cosmetic / cosmeceuticals formulations, In
contemporary era cosmetics and cosmeceuticals are
considered to be essential commodities of life and these
Unani cosmetics and cosmeceuticals can be very good
choice owing to its range, low cost and safety. It can also
incorporate as an adjuvant in several contemporary
preparations.
Cosmetics (Mawad tajmrl) are the external
preparations which are applied to skin, hair, nails, for
various purposes like protecting, covering, colouring,
beautifying or improvement of appearance.aCosmetic
that has or is claimed to have medicinal properties is
called as cosmeceuticals. Cosmeceuticals is the
combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals',
Cosmetic disease is a disease fficting only appearance (It
is a condition that is embarrassing, even disfiguring but
harmless, causing no phy sical pain or disability). The line
between cosmetic diseases and other conditions is not too
clear example, female hirsutism and leucoderma and on
the other hand there seems to be some disagreement
about the status of acne, rosacea, and some types of
psoriasis'.
Cosmeceuticals in Pre and post Hippocratic era:
Early Egyptian men and women as early as 10,000 BC
were using scented oils, ointments (to clean and soften
skin and maskbody odour), dyes and paints (to colour
|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 20L6,5 (2)
skin body and hair, lips and cheeks paint, henna nail
stain, kohl / Eye liners). Cosmetics were an inherent
part of Egyptian culture '.Around 4000 BC first
archaeological evidence for its usage was found in
EgFpt. The use of perfumes, oils and burning of
aromatic incense were in practice, mixture of fragrant,
gums resin and wood were burnt in ancient time by
Egyptians. Copper was used as eye shadows, lamp black
(Kajal) was commonly used for eyes dying of hairs red
was also practiced.aCleansing cream made of animal or
vegetable oil mixed with powdered lime was used, also
perfumed salve oil soaked in scented wood was used.
Perfumed oil was used as a moisturizer. People of all
ages or gender were using makeup. Egyptians also used
mouth freshener and perfumes. Incense cubes were
prepared by mixing grounded gums and plants with
honey, this similar technique used by the Babylonians
that the Greeks and Romans adopted.'
A couple of evidences of cosmetic usage are available in
China around 3000 BC. Chinese people used to stain
their fingernails. Royals of Chou dynasty used to wore
gold and silver and later black or red colour. They used
fragrance and incense, |asmine-scented sesame oil was
imported from India, rosewater from Persiavia the silk
route and Indonesian aromatics through India. Materia
Medica Pen 7s bo which was published in China during
the 16th century describes 2000 herbs, it also contains a
separate section on 20 essential oils. 'The ancient
Chinese people also used to paint their finger nails and
its colour brightness symbolized the status of the
person. Similarlythe earliest evidence of use oflipsticks
was found in |apanese Geisha (Traditional |apanese
female entertainers) th"y used crushed petals of
safflower on lips and they also used it as outliner of
eyebrows.'Henna has been used in India since 4th or 5s
73

Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine
;penturies either as a hair dye or in the art / painted on to
the hands and feet, especially before wedding, it was
also used in North Africa. Special bathing cosmetics in
the form of Ubton are widely used in India and turmeric
preparations are used by newly married brides during
their wedding. India was also famous in the earlier days
for using ftr, (scents in a concentrated form) made from
various Indian flowers' fragrances. The use of kaj al also
has a long history in the Hindu culture.'
Ancient Greeks in manyways learns from the Egyptians
and even coined the word "cosmetics", which means
"the art of decorating." Ancient Greece cosmetology
developed not onlyin the decorative direction, but also
therapeutic.'Ancient Romans used oil and animal fat
for cosmetic purpose (to maintain style and shape of
hair).'The roman bath still is very famous where the
men's body were steamed, some special massage with
oils and perfumes are rubbed into skin ''nln ancient
Greece culture, Luffah I Yabrooj (Atropa belladonna
Linn.) is known as ladies killer due to its alkaloid
atropine, a pupil dilator used as an eye drop to make
their eyes attractive and beautiful.'Ancient Greek was
rich in fragrance, world aromata describe incense,
perfumes, spices, and aromatic medicine. Concoction
named as megaleion, manufactured by Megallus
contains burnt resin, cinnamon, myrrh and cassia and
was used for the treatment of wound and
inflammation.'o
Work of Greco-Arabian physician in the field of
cosmetics / cosmeceuticals is mentioned below in
chronological order
Hippocrates (Buqrat) 460 - c. 370 BCz Buqrat has
advocated importance of diet, exercise, sunlight, baths
n.
and massage for good health and beauty Hippocrates
left a lot of information on body care using medicinal
|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)
r
plants. Diocles, his disciple, has created a work in four
volumes, which contained recipes for ointments and
masks based on vegetable raw materials for skin, nails
and hair care. In Rome PliryrtheElder left work detail of
daily care, for example, the lotion of almond oil with
milk, white lead face powder, tooth powder of pumice
and crushedhorns.'
Galen (f29 AD - I
lalinus: The Roman
c.E2f6)
physician was the author of first textbook of
cosmetology. He was the first who on a scientific basis
divided decorative cosmetics (masking the
shortcomings of the skin) and therapeutic (to preserve
the natural beauty of the skin).'Galen had invented idea
of cold cream and first cooling ointment*In Galens
formuia of cream (Ceratum refrigerans Galeni) he gave
the idea of melting together bees wax, almond oil and
oil of rose/rose water for making cold cream "
Cosmetics were used in Middle East / Persia from
ancient periods. Particularly after Arab converted to
lslam, in some areas cosmetics were restricted if they
were to disguise the real look in order to mislead.
Cosmetic use was increase as all branches of Islam
promotes purity and cleanliness, whether physical or
spiritual.'The rise of Islam in the Arab increases
importance of personal hygiene and fragrance uses has
gain the popularity.'Deodorants and anti-sweating are
not recent cosmetics, they appeared many centuries
ago. The form is changes but similarity in some aspects
is there. Number ofA rab physicians did not distinguish
between odor removers and anti-sweating materials.
This classification remained as such for several
centuries, containing smell removers and sweat-sealers.
They contained a high ratio of deodorant aromatic oils.
Works of (Razes), (Avicenna) and (Ibn al-Tilmrdh),
have proved this."Many progress in manufacturing
74

perfume, were transferred from the Islamic world to
medieval Europe". The Arab and Persian have a bright
history in respect of cosmetology and cosmeceuticals.
The contribution of Greeko-Arab and Persian
physicians is immense in this field. Since many
centuries various physician of Unani TIbb haye added
several formulations as a contrivance for body organs
such as head, hair, colour of skin, glowing of bushra
(skin), beutification of lips and eyes etc. These
formulations and drugs are specially mentioned in
cosmetic ingredients.
Important Arab lUnani physician and their work on
cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: Cosmetics for
beatification offace, body, skin care, hair care and for
skin. Cosmetic diseases have also been described by
various renowned Unani physicians. Work done by
them and detail of their Script / Voluminous
manuscript are mentioned below
Abu Mitsd labir ibn Hayyan (Geber, 721-815,
Iraq)Jab* developed many techniques, including
distillation, evaporation and filtration, which enabled
the collection of the odour of plants into a vapour that
could be collected in the form of water or oil. Jabt ibn
Hayyan have immense role in establishment of the
perfume industry.'u''o
Abu al-Hasan Ali ibn Sahl Rabban al-Tabdrt
(838-870 AD): He hase included skin, face, Sadyain
(breast), eyes, teeth's, indame nahani ki tangr, zeb wa
zeenat (makeup/beatification) of general skin
bashra in the category of Tajmll (beautification /
cosmetics), his text Firdous al-Hikmdh contained at
least 300 formulation of cosmetics distributed in
chapters, in which several formulations are those which
were being in personal use of Omavi and Abbasid
fournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)
Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine
caliphates, and were in the Mamulat (routine use) in
Hammams, these formulations includes after-bath
lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays etc.'uHe
describe Tinea capitis'
Aba Yfrsuf Yu'qilb ibn 'Is$dq uE-$abbdlt ul-KindI
(Alkindus 801-873 AD).' He was an Arabian chemist, in
9th centuryhewrote abookon perfumes named as'The
Kitab Kimiya' al-'ltr' (Book of the Chemistry of
Perfume).'u'" It describes many essential oil, including
imported Chinese camphor.loIt contained recipes for
fragrant oils, aromatic waters and salves. The book also
hold 107 methods / instruction and recipes for making
perfume by using 106 different ingrediants from plant
and 11 of animal and 9 of mineral origin. He even
mentioned the perfume making equipment, like the
alembic which still bears its Arabic name."Al-Kindi to
produce various scent and their product carried out
extensive research and experiments on various plants
and other sources and on their combinations.He
mentioned in detail many'recipes'for a extensive range
of perfumes, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Several
witness reported his work on perfumes and ghAliya
(Fragrant powder), containing mush amber and other
ingredients. He also discloses list related to technical
names of drugs and apparatts.'uAl-Kindi has played
immense role in establishment of the perfume industry
he can be considered as real founder."
Abu Bakr Muhammad ihn Zakariyya al-Razt
(Zakariya Razi)/ Razes (854-925):He had established a
and
chapter on cosmetology and principles for
beatifications under the name "Zeenat wa araish" in his
famous book"Kitab al-Mansuri'It was first separate
16
chapter / writing in cosmeticology." Taqdseem al-Ilal
written by Zakariyya al-Razl (554-925 AD) is a great
and very famous book in [Jnani medicine. In this book
75

Hamiduddin et. al-:Evolulion of cosmeceuticals in Unani
is specially related to cosmetology' He
105m chapter
(black'
mentioned all types of hair cosmetics like dyes
white, brown, red) hair conditioner, hair straighten'
hair protector, hair stronger, hair longer' hair rapid
grower, hair remover / depilatories, hair thinner'
Al-Hawiby al-Razris
epilatories.'oThe XXIII volume of
(diets &
related to Qawanln of Makulat-o-Mashrubaf
beverages) and some Usul-i-Ilai (principals
of
treatments), cosmetics disease of hair and skin
is
related
mentioned. It is divided into two volumes one is
to principal ofbeverages and second is related
to disease
of hair and skin, especially eczema and its types with
very good experienced remedies'"' In Al-Havi Fil
Tib
he describes treatment of alopecia arerta and medina
or Dracunculiasis'.Razi talked about odor
worm
removers in his book Ktab al-Hawi fi'l-Ttb' in Part
under the titl e"whatremovesbad smell and
23,volume 8
sweat stink, urine and stool stink, andwhat softens
it' and
powders that perfume the body" ' Razes followed internal
and external method to perfume (provide pleasant
smell to the) the body, he mentioned about coating the
body with leaves of Cypress-tree and the oil of its
flowers, and eat Cubeb pepper and Cassia-tree' and for
stinking sweat Rehani Syrtp (grape juice with
carnations andwood and so on), Artichoke' Asparagus'
cooked wild-thyme, butchers broom, rose' sweet
marjoram, moss and sweet flag' Razes mentioned odor
removing compounds and anti-sweating ones in the
same prescription and distinguishedbetween them'
For
example: we take one ounce of for example: one ounce
of cinnamon-tree and Indianvalerian and azzfdr al-teeb
(covering of a kind of shellfish), two ounces of each one'
and half ounce of lake mud, graphite slag and washed
ceruse, one ounce of with judean wormwood and
Roman valerian and three ounces of saffron and dried
Journal of Research in'Uhani Medicine,
medicine
rose. Then the dry components are crushed with
by old
butchers broom water and saffron, and dissolved
rehani syruP and used'."
Abii Man;frr al-I.Iasdn ibn Nilfi al'Qumri (d' shortly
was
after 990 AD ) : He was the teacher of lbn SIna and
court physician to the prince al Man5ur' to whom
he
dedicated the only treatise by him that is preserved'
the
Kitab at-Ghin6 wa-al-m',n6(The Book of Wealth
and
al-
Wishes), which was also known as al-Shamslyah
ManWarryah (The Mansurian Sunshade) after
its
dedicatee. In this cosmeceuticdls are mentioned'"
His
Ali lbn Aboss al-Majusi al-Ahwdzi(died 982-994):
special book "Al-Kahhala fi kamil al-Sind' al-
Tibbiya' is related to ophthalmology in details' Many
types of eye diseases are described in it with
prevention
in
and treatment. Some cosmetics are also mentioned
this book, he mentioned method of treatment like
natf
al-Sha'r (picking of eye iashes), tanqiae badan and
formulation for entropian hke matbukh (decoction)
of
purgative drugs, tila of dame zifda'(Iaminent of frog
btood) mainly consist of naushadar and jundbedastar'
There is also mentioned of condition such as excessive
eye lashes and for this management process
is plucking
and applicationof mastagl. He also mentionedbaldness
of eye brow and eye lashes treatment like application
of
marham dakhiliy unafter purgative therapy' Mentioned
most useful eye cosmetic as single drugs, ate zarawand
and haiyul aalam. This book was published in Arabic
text from Wazarah al-saqafah wa al-Irshad al-Islami
Dimashq in 1997."Mapsi in 'Kamil as-Sana'ah''
described differentibl diagnosis of lepromatous and
tuberculoidleProsY.'
Abu'al Qassim al-Zohrdwi or Abulcassis (936-1013
AD): He was a cosmetologist and Arab physician' he
wrote voluminous medical encyclope diaKitab al-Tasrlf
2016' 5 (2) 76
 Hamiduddin et. al.:,Evohttion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine
li man'Ajtza'An al-Ta'llf in 30 volume. In this Chapter
19 is devoted to cosmetics .''n Al-Zohrawl mentioned the
benefits of suntan lotions he contributed in making
under-arm deodorants, hair removing sticks, hand
lotions, hair dyes for blond & black hair and for hair
care, even for correcting kinky or curly hair describing
their ingredients in detail. For bad breath he suggested
cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, chewing on coriander
leaves, fried cheese in olive oil seasoned with powdered
cloves. He included methods for strengthening the
gums and bleaching the teeth. He mentioned perfumes,
scented aromatics and incense, perfumed stocks rolled
and pressed in special moulds (perhaps the initial
antecedents of the present day lipsticks and solid
deodorants). He used oily substances (Adhan) for
medication and beautification.'Al-Zohrawl distinct
cosmetics as a branch of medication and the drugs used
to improve the beauty as Advla Muzayyenah / Adwtyat
al-Zinah. On the basis of 'Hadtths al-Zohrawl was
described the care and beautification ofhair, skin, teeth
and other parts of the body, within the boundaries of
Islam. He recommend "MuthallAthat", prepared from
camphor, musk and honey, very much like Vicks
Vapour Rub, for cold relief. Other cosmeceutical forms
which were considered of twentieth century were
already present in Muslim Spain and are described by
al-Zohrawl they include nasal sprays, mouth washes
and hand creams. He suggested keeping clothes in an
incense-filled nook ("Lenor") for providing fragrance to
the clothes. Taking flowers to the sick in hospital is not a
recent tradition; al-Zohrawt advocated this custom
thousandyears ago.'n
Ibn Sina, al-Shaykh al-Ra'is Abu'Ali al-Husdyn ibn
'Abd Allah /Avicenna (980-f037 AD} Ibn Sina
introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers
|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016, 5 (2)
by means of distillation. He improve distillation, the
procedure is most commonly used today. He first
experimented with the rose, one of his 100 books was
devoted to roses. Before his discovery, liquid perfumes
used were mixtures of oil, crushed herbs and petals
which make a strong blend. Rose water was more
delicate, and immediately became popular, distillation
technology significantly influenced western perfumer
and scientifi c developments particularly chemistry.'u'o
In "Canon of Medicine "Ibn Srna explains treatment of
various skin diseases, with preventive measures as a
warning. He firstly suggested that'cosmetic skin defects
are associated with the health of internal
organs'.'Aicenna in third article of the fourth book of
al-Qanunfi'l TIbb under the title "in treatingbad smell
of skin in general." and "a chapter: in describing a powder
which perfumes body and benefits hot tempered people".
He encouraged bathing, eating whatis digestible in
manner and quantity, eating what canperfume body
and remoye sweat odour on empty stomach, likeCubeb
Pepper, Cassia-tree, Parsley, Artichoke, Asparagus,and
plants which expels urine and purifies blood fromstink.
He also encouraged coating the body with
butchersbroom water and water with Yemen alum and
irissyrup i He also used liniment ofbutchers broom and
white sandal, oil of butcher's broom, oil of rose used
drug that blocks pores and prevents sweat, like burnt
lead, zinc, and alum. Avicenna not distinguishes
between odour removers and anti-sweating
materials."lb n Sina give description of varic ella in al-
Ttbb,he make his discourse on perionychia
Qanun fi'l
(swelling atnails).'
Abu Sahl'Isa ibn Yahya al-Masihi al-Jurjfuni (972-
1010 AD): He has written Al-mi'a fi-l-sana'a al-
tabi'iyyAh.The 19'h chapter is related to scent and cloths.
77
 Hamiduddin et. al.:Evofution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

" In this chapter he described about scent like mushk, cosmetology for dryness and its related cosmetic

anbar, ood, kafur, lazin, sandal za'faran; about 20 oils problems. He also mentioned cosmetics for nails its

related to cosmeticslike roghane gul, roghane nargis, cracking, scaling and brittling along with cracking of

hina etc and other relevant cosmetics / soles and other details. According to Ibn abi usaiba
roghane
cosmeceutical and dressings." another book of Ibn Zuhr in cosmetology is Kitab al-

Ahmail Ibn Ahmad Qalyubi (d.1049): He has written zinah (also calledKitab al-iqtisad) with full description

"Tailhkirafi al-Ttb wa al-Hikmd". The 10'h chapter is of cosmetology. It includes cosmeceuticals for hair, nail,

specially related to cosmetology that is further divided skin like for namash, kalal barash etc.'nlnal-Taystr
into three sub chapters; first is cosmetology related to treatise on therapy and management he gives
external and internal parts ofthe body. Second chapter description of pityriasis versicolor, purpura, scabies' He

is related to hair cosmetics and third is related to cloth described pityriasis complex and named It al-lbria
and its cleansing." affecting the head scalp and suggest treatment with tar

Sharaf al-Din Ismd'il ibn Husayn luriani, [d'f f35 which is accepted as best treatment in contemporary

A.D.l: In of Dhakhira Khawdrizm Shahi

8'h chaptet age in the form oftar soaP.'

title "Pakizgi aur arastagi wa perastagi zahire jism $a'ld bin Hibil Allah (1o73-116s AD): He wrote a
kharajan wa dakhilan" he established 37 chapters book name Al-Mughni fi al-Tibb that describes
(Abwab), on arastagi, tazaeen and tajmeel of skin and cosmetology. He bring-up two special chapters for

other organ and recorded hundreds of formulations those diseases that leads to cosmetic problems' He

regarding this title. It includes formulation and mentioned formulation of baldness llke marahim

procedure for dying and oiling of hair, for fingers of foot mulhima and zamade muhallil after tanquiae badan'
(Foot care) and nails, even for the fissure in foot sole, for Different formulations of the Namsh (naevts), Kalaf

making palm hand soft and smooth etc. He

/ (melasma/cholasma), Barash (lentigo/ epheiis/

presenteddifferent formulation for'male and for ephelides ), khilan (mole) are described. For the first

females." Kalaf formtlation appear containing drug e.g. Shiyafe

Abfr-Marwdn 'Abd al-Malik ibn Abi al-'Ald' Ihn Zfihr mamisA, Aarade mAsur, Aarade baqila, Mamiran,

(t}g4-1162 AD): He has written Al-Taysir fil- Zarawand, Za&faran, Tukhme kharpaza, Bans ki iad ka

Mudawat wal-Tadbir (Book of Simplification chilka (Rind of Bamboo root) , Maghze badam talkh'

Concerning Therapeutics and Diet) His name was These ingredients should be clean and after grinding

Latinized as Avenzoar, Abumeron etc' He mentions ' should be tiiturate with honey and apply as paste for

cosmetology in his book like a case report. He has whole night and clean at morning with bhusi water.

speciality in medicine. He mentions cosmetology Many other cosmetics problems like cracking of skin,

according to organological diseases. He mentioned excessive sweating, baras wa bahaq (Vitiligo

different types of Sr.rr ma (Kohl) for various stages of life andpitryasis alba)is also mentioned. Detail description

most commonly used single drugs ate Ismad maghsul, of disease and its treatments is mentioned. Now it is

Tutia, Zare ward and Lajward. He mentions skin published in Arabic text from Beirut Dar al-Nafaes in

(2)
|ournal of Research iir'Unani Medicine, 2016,5

*1999.'o
Muh adhdhib al- Din Ab il' I -H as u n' AII ib n A h m ad
Hubdl known us lbn Hubdl (ll2l-1213 AD). He hase
written a book KitAb al-Mukhtar atfi al-Tlb(The Book of
Selections in Medicine), 1165 in Mosul, north of
Baghdad, where lbn Hubal spent most of his life. He
describes cosmetology with attention and
consideration. About 27 chapters are related to
cosmetic diseases. He describe many formulations for
hair cosmetics e.g. recipes for hair conditioner, recipes
for Muqawwl-i-sha&r (hair straighten), recipes for
muhafiz-i-sha\r (hair protector), recipes for
mutawwilr-i-sha\r (hair longer), recipes for munbitr-i-
sha&r (hair rapid grower), recipes for haliq/nura (hair
remover / depilatories), recipes for muraqqiql-i-sha\r
(hair thinner), recipes for epilatories, recipes for Khizab
I (hair dyes) specially black, red and white dyes. He
describes a special chapter for permanent hair remover
e.i. decoction of nura mukarar wlth Zarnikh. He
describes cosmetics/cosmeceuticals for glowing of face,
whitener and redner, cosmetics for sibgha(skin
colorant) e.g. yellow and black are described, and many
formulations in the form of zamad, tila, khizab, nurah
etc. He also mentioned cosmetics for prevention from
sunburn and air; cosmetics for prevention from
cracking of face, lips, palm, soles. A special chapter for
acne vulgaris mentioned tila prepared with
murdarsang, buraq, roghane gul, shunizwithvinegar or
mitti, buraq, Ltshna, tukhme kharpaza, kharbaq and irsa
this formula should be applied as a paste with roghane
gul.He also described prevention of excessive sweating
and makes body fragrance and so many other
cosmetics."
Amin al Dawlah Abu al Basdn $a'1dbin llibat Allfuh
bin lbrahim Ibn al-Tilmidh (1073-1165 AD): in his
Journal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)
Hamiduddin et. al.:Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine
manuscript Pharmacopeia of lbn al-Tilmldh, namely
Ibn in the twentieth chapter (the last one) he wrote about
odor removers and anti-perspirant in an independent
chapter. One such prescription to hold sweat as
mentioned as dry Coriander refined Tanner's Sumach
and washed rice ten dirhams each. All these
components are cooked with three pounds of water,
until third ofit remains. Then it is filtered. Three ounces
of it are drunk every day. After that the body is coated
with quince fat, and Armenian mud, butchers broom is
sprinkled over body, and crushed leaves of Tamarisk,
fine like dust and the body is coated with butchers
broom fat and Sanle fat. In prescription of medicine to
cut sweat he mentioned that the body is cleaned with
rose fat and butchers broom fat, then rose water is
poured on it, and it is spread out."
Abu l.Iamid Mufiammad ibn'Ali ibn'Umdr Najib al-
Din al-Samarqandi (d.1222 AD): He has written A/-
asbab wa-al-'alAm1t (causes and symptoms) in which
he gave special attention and wrote specific chapter on
cosmetology. The24'nbab (chapter) 'fi amraz al-lildwa
al-Sha'r wa al-Zinat wa al-Azafeer wa al-Atraf" is
related to cosmetics that further divided into 26 fasl
(sub-chapters) especially cosmetic for hair like oil for
hair protector in which Aas , Ward and Murr; hair
longer in which Adhane harrah qabiza (hot and
stringent oils) with Bargetil and Barge kaddu, various
recipes forNu ra,anddyes(black, white, red andbrown)
are described; for skin he mentioned many recipes for
Qairuti androghanare described. For cracking of lip he
prescribed Roghane gzl, Roghane hina, Shahme bat wa
bhed, Alakul batm and Qarnul iyyal muharraq, for
cracking of face Mom, Zufa ratab, Shahme bat, Haldi,
Parshioshan andLuabe Habbe saforjat.He also describe
drug for nail and distal part of the body, Example: For
79
 F

Hamiduddin et. al;Evolution of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

cracking of soles Zaft rumi and Zaitun with Basal or described. He also described drug for 'esthetic

Alakul natm and Zaitun. He described all about the problems' of the body such as drug for excessive asarcia

cosmetics in details."His 13th century text is filled with (obesogenous drugs), for maintaining the weight, for

aroma-therapeutic knowledge with chapter on getting rid of the excessive weight: lbn al-Nafis

aromatic baths and another on aromatic salves and recommended following steps for diet such as less
powders. Steams and incenses of marjoram, thyme, consumption of food, taking showers, doing exercise
wormwood, chamomile, fennel, mint, hyssop and dill while being hungry, sleeping on the land, Wearing a

were suggested for sinus or ear congestion. Herbs were tough clothes (which can be compared today, with the

burned in a gourd, breathed as vapours, or sprinkled on use of slimmingbelt), Consumption ofbarelybread and

hot stones or bricks."The most sedative scents in order hot spices, using laxatives and diuretic to get rid of the

of effectiveness were lavender, bergamot, marjoram, food prior to benefited from it."
sandalwood, lemon and chamomile noted by Da'ild ibn 'Omar al-Darir al-Antakt or David of
contemporary study was same noted by Al- Antioch (d. 1599): He has written 'Al-Nuzhd' al-
Samarqandi.'o Mubahhajah fi Tashhiz al-Azhan wa Ta'dil al-
'Ala' al-Din 'Ali ibn Abi al-Hazm ma'ritf bi Ibn al- Amjizah'(also known as Da'ud ibn '[Jmar al-Antaki:
Nafis al-Qarsht, Ali (12f 3-1288 AD): In his written Tadhkira Uh al-Albab). The 7'h chapter is related to
work'Al-mujaz fi al-Trbb / Muiaz al-Qdnfrn" special Amraze-Zahira that includes cosmetology. He
chapter 5'n is related to hair cosmetics specially hair described the concept of cosmetology its related

straightening, hair protector, for stronger, longer, and diseases and its treatment in a very well way.'uln another

rapid growth ofhair, hair remover, thinner, depilatories, textof Al-Antakiknown as"Bughydh al-Muhtaj fi al-

epilatories, hair dyes specially black, red and white dyes. Mujarrab min al-Elaj"l8* chapter is related to
In other chapters cosmetic related to skin, nail are cosmetology and general beauty for external parts of
described.'nO verall lbn al-N afi sdescribed cosmetics for the body along with preventive aspect, cosmetic types

skin care, hair care and body weight control & diet and problems. This chapter is further divided into seven

system. He was eminent for his interest with cosmetic sub-chapters that indicate its importance and

drugs, he classified them very well into Hair problems:
Drugs for maintaining the hair (mix of oils and plants),
hair falls, absence of beard hair, alopecia/ baldness
(internal and external treatment), drugs for excessive
hair wrinkle, to make hair straight, to make it longer
curly and to soften the hair, hair removers and drugs for
significance in that era and the Unani system of
Medicine. He elaborates all types of cosmetic problems
individually."
Ibn Al-Atn Zurbi (d.f 153 AD): Treatise on carbuncles
called Risalatul-Shakfa gives description of
carbunculosis, it also deals with skin disease'.

Trichoclasis, drugs that delays canities, tincture to make Beside above mentioned scholars, many Unani
hair black etc. Drugs for treating skin problems, physician of Indian subcontinent also have
chloasma and ephelis, ecchymoses and the black documented cosmetics, for example: Haktm Hasan
maculae, vitiligo and leprosy, drugs for pediculi etc are mirzd (f909): In his treatise 'Risala-i-LakhlakhA' ,

Journal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2) 80

 Hamiduddin et. al.:Evohfiion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

mentioned many recipes of aromatic oils, Itr and its invention and improvement of distillationby labir ibn
preparation methods with images of manufacturing Hayyan and Ibne Sina), invention of different t1ryes of
bhatti, few khamira, Manjan (Sanoon ), missi perfumes, different type of deodorants and anti
preparations and formulation for removing bad perspirant (with many drugs and formulations), after-
breath." bath lotions, powders, sprinkles, pastes, sprays, eye
care, skin care, hair care, dying of hair and skin,
Discussion and conclusion
hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation skin
in the field of dermatology find in written by Arab I
disorders, nail care in detail etc. They describe even
Persian physicians can be categories in three category
cosmetics for prevention from sunburn and air and also
i.e. skin diseases as a part of internal disease such as
drug for aesthetic problems of the bodywhich are very
tumours, leprosy etc, pure skin disease such as vitiligo,
relevant to present era. Formulations and drug
hyperpigmentation etc and conditions related to skin
described by Unani Physicians are foundation of many
appendages such as hair, nail etc and categorizedas al-
present day cosmetics and can be good Source for
Zinah (cosmetology).' 1, [Jnani system of medicine
development of effective and innovative cosmetics and
several single drugs and compound cosmetic
cosmeceuticals. Still many formulations are unexplored
formulations are used to beautiSr the skin, face, hairs,
in respect of its utility in the present scenario. These
eyes and nails. They work according to their (Afaal)
formulations also need validation according to current
pharmacological action and Khilt (humours) of the
scientific parameters so that it can be accepted globally.
person. When these Khilt are in perfect harmony, a
Unani cosmetics and cosmeceuticals can be very good
person can retain his inner and outer beauty and it is
choice owing to its range, low cost and safety. They can
believed that presence of toxic materials inside our
also be incorporated as an adjuvant in several
body make a person ugly and diseased. Musffi-i-
contemporarypreparations and can also be modified in
khoonAdvia are one of the therapeutic interventions to
contemporary cosmecutical forms. It can be concluded
eliminate these conditions. In
Unani medicine
that Greco - Arab (Unani physician) have given lot of
cosmetics can be dealt under Amraz-i-jild was
attention towards cosmetic diseases and appearance
tazyiniyaat (Unani dermatology and cosmetics). The
and inciuded its management in their medical text
Unani cosmetics are rnainiy based on medicinal herbs
beside other disease and consider it an important entity
and partiallyon mineral or animal sources.'
for the well being ofhumanity.
This work clearly revealed that ancient Unani literature
has an elaborate mention of cosmetic and
R.eferences
cosmeceutical formulations. These formulations are
1. Nema RK, Rathore KS, Dubey BK. Textbook of
taking care of appearance and dealing with cosmetic
Cosmetics. CBS Publishers & Distributors; 2009,
diseases. Various cosmetics and cosmeceuticals
pp.3-6
prevailing in contemporaryera have been introduces by
2. Hanna T. Bachour, Contribution of Arabs
Unani physicians for example use of light perfumes (by
Physicians in Dermatology, |ISHIM 2OO2,2,pp 43-

|ournai of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

81
 Hamiduddin et. al.:Evoltfiion of cosmeceuticals in Unani med

l
45 14. Levey, Martin (1973), "Early Arabic
J. Chaudhri SK, Iain NK. History of cosmetics. Asian Pharmacology," E.l. Brill: Leiden: , accessed on 10/

fournal ofPharmaceutics. 2009 Jul l;3(3):164. 031 20t7

4. Nema RK, Rathore KS, Dubey BK. Textbook of 15. Tabri Abul Hasan Ali Ibn Sahl Raban. Firdaus-ul-
Cosmetics. CBS Publishers & Distributors; 2009, Hikmat. (Urdu Translation) Vol.1. Karachi: Idarae-
pp.3,6 Tarjuman-e-Tib;YNM
5. Cosmeceutica,, accessed on 19 I 0l I 2017 16. Al-Hassani, Woodcok and Saoud (2006) 1001

6. https://arnoldzwicky.or gl 201 I I 0L I 03/cosmetic- Inventions;Muslim Heritage in Our World, FSTC,

disease p.22. http s: I /en.wikiped ia. or gl wiki/History- of-
7. Concept of Cosmetics in Unani System of perfume # cite _ note-Levey-8 , accessed on
Medicine, NHP India, https://www.nhp.gov.in/ t010312017
concept -of -cosmetics-in-unani-system-of- t7. Al-Kindi, http://wwwtraditionalarabicmusic.
medicine_mtl, accessed on l0 I 0l I 2017 com / The Old Masters/al-kindi.htm, accessed on
8. History of Cosmetology. r0103120t7
http://www.pocvoda.ril enl faqihistory-of- 18. N. Groom, New Perfume Handbook, Blackie
cosmetology-60. html. accessed on L9.01.2017 Academic and professional, Springer Science &
9. Ancient Roman Baths, http://www.crystalinks. Business Media, 2"d edt. 19 97,p.17 5

com/ romebaths. html, accessed on 17l O2l2Ol7 19. Razi MBZ.'Kitab al-Mansuri'. I edt. New Delhi:
10. H. Panda, The Complete Technology Book on CCRUM;1991.
Herbal Perfumes & Cosmetics, National Institute 20. Razi Z. Taqaseem al-Ilal. Halab: Ma'had al-Turas
Oflndustrial Research Delhi, 2003, 18, 37 al-Ilmial-Arabi;1992
11. NIIR board of technologist, Handbook on Herbal 2t. Qadeer A. Tibbi Sahaef. lst ed. New Delhi:
product, Cosmetic, Toiletries, Medicine and Education Publishing House, Delhi; 2 004 p. 4l
Perfumes), Publication division National institute
22. Al-Qamari, Abu al-Mansur al-Hasan ibn Nuh,
ofindustrial research, De1hi,2000, voI. 1, p.5
[d.990 A.D.], 1255 A.H., Ghina Muna (Arabic Text
12. Moustafa Mawaldi, Mais Kataya, History of Odor
with Urdu Translation byHakim Muhammad Hadi
Removers and Anti-perspirant in the Arabic Husayn Khan), Manager Dawa Khana Ma'dan al-
Medical Heritage, ]ournal of the Internationai
Adwiya, Victoria Street, Lucknow.
society for the history of islamic medicine
23. Al-Majusi'Ali Ibn Abass. Al-Kahhala fi kamil al-
(IISHIM). 20t0; 2009:2.26 -30
Sina' al-Tibbiya. Damascus: Wazarah al-Saqafah
13. M. Guettat (1980), La Musique elassique du
wa al-Irshad al-Islami; 1 997
Maghreb (Paris:Sindbad).https:l I en-
wikipedia.org/wiki/Islamic world contributions to 24. Muslim Contribution to Cosmetics, -, accessed on
Medieval Europe #cite note-69, accessed on r0102120t7.

tu02l20t7 25. Dunlop, D.M., "Arab Civilization," Librairie du

|ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016,5 (2)

 Hamiduddin et. al.:Evobilion of cosmeceuticals in Unani medicine

Liban, https://en.wikipedia .org /wiki/ History of kitab al-taraffuq fi al-itr dirasah wa ta[rqiq Sayf ibn
perfume, 1 975, access ed on l0 I 03 I 2017 Shahin ibn Khalaf al-Marikhi. Publisher: al-
26. Al-Masihi. al-mi'a fi -l-sana'a al-tabi'tyyah. Tehran: Daw[rah : Wizarat al-Thaqafah wa-al-Funtn wa-
Moassasah Mutalaat Tarikh Puzshaki; 1384. al-Turath,2010.
27. Qatyubi A. Tadhkira fi al-Tib wa al- Hikma Tehran: 34. AI-Nafis. A1-mujaz fi al-Tibb, Tehran: Aabuz; 1 348

Danishgahe Ulum Puzshaki Iran; 1962. 35. Kaadan AN. Compound Drugs Used in Diseases
28. Al-|urjini AAH. Dhakhira Khawirizm Shahi New Treatment in 'Al-Mujaz fi al-Tibb' Book of Ibn al-

Delhi: Idara Kitab Al-Shifa;2010. Nafis. Iournal of the international society for the
29. Ibn Zuhr. Al-Taysir fil-Mudiwat wal-Tadbir History of Islamic Medicine (IISHIM). 2009 - l0;: 2.
Damascus: Dar al-Fikr; 1403 36. Al-Antaki D. al-Nuzha al-Mubahhajah fi Tashhiz
30. $a'Td bin Hibat Allah. al-Mughni fi al-Tibb al-Azhan wa Ta'dil al-Amjizah.iNuskha Khatti;
Beirut: Daral-Nafaes;1999 1997 .http: I lwww.ghaemiyeh.com.
3t. Baghdadi IH. Kitab al-Mukhtarat fi al-Tib 37. Al-Antaki D. Bughyah al-Muhtaj fi al-Mujarrab
Hyderabad: Dayeratul Ma'arif al-Uthmania min al-Elaj Tehran: Danishgahe Ulum Puzshaki
Hyderabad Dakkan; 1 37 1 :98 1 - 1004 Iran;1968.
32. Al-Samarqandi Najib al-Din. 'Al-asbib wa-al- 38. Hakeem Hasan Mirza: Risalae Lakhlakha, Mtbae

'alamat', Tehran: Nuskha Khatti; YNM Karimi Bomb ay,1327 H,1909.

33. Abunassar attar israeli minhahuddukan "Makhtiit

)ournal of Research in Unani Medicine, 2016, 5 (2) 83