Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Prepared By:
Md. Kamrul Hasan
MBA (Malaysia)
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
Batch: 15th
Southeast University
Dhaka, Bangladesh
Southeast University
Department of Textile Engineering
Special Thanks to -
And
Prepared By:
Email: hasanbd015@gmail.com
List of Traders:
Multinational trader: Local Trader:
1. Li & Fung (Hongkong) 1. Centrotex (BD)
2. Comptextile (Shrilanka) 2. Team sourcing (Uttara; BD)
3. Texebo 3. Norwest (BD)
4. Asmara (India)
5. Mondial (Europe)
6. Lin mark (Europe)
7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution (Europe)
8. Synergies
Spring
Summer
Fall
b)
i) Autumn
ii) Winter July to December
Without it, the price per unit of garment will rise and this may lead to
many European buyers turning their backs on our products.
3. Costing/Price Quotation:
Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments.
Costing is done considering-
i) Fabric cost
ii) Accessories cost &
iii) CM (Cost of Making) cost
Way of Costing:
Costing can be done by-
i) Original Sample
ii) Specification
4. Order Confirmation:
An order confirmation is a written document which is issued by buyer to the
manufacturer which contains Tech-pack. It serves as tool to avoid confusion and
mistakes.
5. PO (Purchase Order):
After confirmation of an order buyer provides seller a written document which
mention the order details such as-
- Order quantity
- Delivery date
- Port of destination (POD)
- Item description
- Item unit price etc.
6. Master L/C:
When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the manufacturer is called
Master L/C. This L/C is issued by the buyer (Buyer’s bank) to manufacturer.
Master L/C has higher financial value than back to back L/C.
a. Proto Sample:
Features:
This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
This sample is made before or after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Here buyer checks whether supplier can make the garments.
b. Fit Sample:
Features:
This sample is made by available fabric and accessories.
This sample is made after order confirmation.
Purpose:
Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.
Purpose:
Bulk production is done following P.P sample.
Purpose:
These samples are only used for PP meeting.
Purpose:
Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.
Purpose:
Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and send “test
report” to the buyer and factory.
Purpose:
Here buyer compares Shipment Sample with Production Sample.
h. Salesman Samples:
The sample which is made for market appraisal or marketing purpose then it is
called salesman sample. It is made at the final stage of order confirmation and
actual materials are used for marketing the sample.
19. Sewing:
Here, all the cutting fabrics are sewn to make the complete garments according
to the approved sample. Different types of sewing machines are used in
production line.
20. Finishing:
All the required finishing procedures are done here by following the buyer’s
instruction.
23. Delivery:
If everything is ok, then manufacturer sent the goods to the buyer.
In-line Inspection:
During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and
suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-
line Inspection.
On-line Inspection:
This inspection is done at the end of the production line during production is
called On-line Inspection. This inspection is conducted by the factory QC.
BOM Sheet:
The pages of specification file which contains fabric and accessories detail is
called BOM (Bill of Materials) Sheet.
ICD:
ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to
transport in carton because of introducing crease marks. So goods are transport
by hanging in ICD. These goods are suit, blazer, dress pant, dress shirt etc.
Stock Lot:
When goods are made for buyer but not possible to send the goods to buyer due
to failure of commitment with buyer as a result goods stay in store. These goods
are called stock lot.
CM (Cost of Making):
Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories. Manufacturer has to make
only garment and he will get the making charge only.
What is Inspection?
Activities, such measuring, examining, testing, gauging, one or more
characteristics of a product or service and comparing these with specified
requirements to determine conformity.
What is Testing?
A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements
by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental, or
operating actions and conditions.
1. Currier Companies:
Sample or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the
currier.
i) Maersk
ii) APL
iii) MGH
iv) NYK
v) Kuhen & Negel
vi) Expolonca
vii) Damco
viii) NMC Corporation Ltd.
ix) HTL Logistic
x) Crown Logistic
5. Testing Companies:
6. Transportation Companies:
Any kind of textile material transport by transportation companies.
8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.
9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies and Firms) include
member details.
Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.
8. Memorandum of association:
It is a document that is issued by RJSC (Registered of Joint Stock Companies
and Firms) which indicates the partnership specially share percentage, profit
percentage and any kind of partnership details in case of limited company.
9. Certification of incorporation:
It is issued by RJSC (Registered Joint Stock Company) include member details.
Note:
1-5 and 7 all points are renew every year.
b) Conditional T/T: Buyer will pay advance but can not money without
showing documents.
5. Western Union:
This union is used for very small quantity of the garments. For example: 300pcs
of garments.
2. Packing List:
This is a document that indicates the contents of each individual carton/
package in the container. The packing list includes the cubic
measurement of the cartons/package, the weight, the number of
cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by size/color/quantity. This
document is prepared by the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can
specify which information should be included.
Woven Garments
Knit Garments &
Heavy Knit Garments
Woven Garments:
1. Shirt:
Men top garments. Shirt is of two types-
a) Basic/Formal/Dress/Official shirt
b) Casual/Pilot shirt
5. Skirt:
Ladies bottom garments.
7. Dress:
Ladies top garments. e.g. Ladies kamiz.
12. Gilet:
Sleeveless thick jacket that is mainly used in Europe.
Fig: Gilet Fig: Parka
13. Parka:
It is another type of jacket but in has a hairy look in the collar part.
Fig: Cap
1. T-Shirt:
Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or not.
Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single jersey fabric
of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt.
2. Polo Shirt:
Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt is
made by flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to make Polo
Shirt.
Fig: T-shirt
Fig: Polo-shirt
3. Tank Top:
Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap. E.g. Santo ganji.
4. Sweat Shirt:
Fig: Santo ganji
Long sleeve T-Shirt made by fleece fabric.
5. Swim wear:
Clothing specially made for swimming purposes. These garments are skin tight,
made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof.
6. Sports Wear:
Garments used in any type of sports.
7. Socks:
An item of clothing that is worn on feet.
9. Knit dress
12. Briefs:
Men’s under wear (short).
13. Lingerie:
Only ladies under garments.
14. Singlet:
Sleeveless ladies top garments with strap.
16. Gloves:
Gloves have individual finger coverings, offering more
mobility but less overall warmth than mittens.
Fig: Gloves
17. Mitten:
A covering for the hand that encases the thumb
separately and the four fingers together.
1. Pullover:
Long sleeve sweater without button at front.
2. Slipover:
Sleeveless sweater without button at front.
4. Cardigan:
Long sleeve sweater with button at front.
5. Zip-up:
Long sleeve sweater with zipper at front.
6. Half-zip:
Long sleeve sweater with half-zipper at front.
i. Terry fleece:
Here one side single jersey and other side is brushed.
ii. Polar fleece:
Here both sides are brushed.
Types of Stripe:
Generally there are two types of stripe.
1. Feeder Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is below 4cm then it is called feeder stripe.
2. Engineering Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called engineering stripe.
Outer Wear:
Garments that protection from bad weather are called outer wear.
e.g. Rain Coat, Trench Coat, Gilet, Wind Breaker.
Sewing accessories:
1. Sewing thread:
The physical appearance and quality of seam is directly related to sewing
thread. It is one of the main elements to production garment. Sewing thread play
an important factor to join two parts of fabric. Sewing threads are produced
from ply of yarn which is used for sewing.
2. Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers
of fabrics in the garments. It is joined by sewing and heating. The main purpose
of these fabrics is used to hold up, support, control area of garments and to keep
real shape. Interlining fabric is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, viscose and
wool are used in interlining. It can be used canvas, flannel and non-woven
fabrics. Generally two types of interlining are used in garment processing which
are fusible interlining and non-fusible interlining.
Uses: Interlining is normally used in cuffs, collar, waist band, belt loop & the
front part of jacket & coats.
3. Lining:
Lining is a piece of fabric which is used to cover the inner surfaces
of garments especially when inner face employs different materials from the
outer surface. It is joined by sewing. The main purpose of these fabrics is used
to feel comfort and to prevent wear on a side. Generally smooth and
lustrous fabrics made of silk or cotton is used in lining. It can be used lustrous
wool alpaca fabric or silk filling.
Main label: It contains brand name or trade name, country name of buyer
which is registered by the buyer e.g. Levi’s, Polo, Adidas, GAP, Lewis
Philippe, etc.
Size label: It indicates the size of the garment i.e. S, M, L, XL, XXL, or
collar length of shirt 15, 16, 17, 18, etc.
Care label: It contains fabric composition and care instructions and also
the name of the country or origin.
5. Zipper:
This is one kind of trimming which is used open and close of two parts of
garments. But it’s also used for decorative purpose.
It has mainly 4 parts- stopper, slider, tape and teeth.
Zipper length is measured from stopper to stopper.
Tape is normally made of nylon or polyester to avoid shrinkage.
Zipper teeth are normally made of metal, aluminum, black oxidized,
molded plastic.
Types of Zipper:
Metal zipper (golden brass, antique brass,
antique silver, gunmetal, silver etc.)
Aluminum zipper
Black Oxidized zipper
Molded Plastic zipper
Types of Zippers based on Functionality:
7. Twill tap:
Herringbone type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt, Cargo pant etc.
8. Canvas tap:
Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc.
9. Shoulder pad:
Shoulder pads are shaped pad which is used at the shoulder areas of a garment
to give a raised shape or an extended shoulder line to the finished garment. It is
made from foam. Normally used in blazer and jacket.
12: Button:
A button is a small disc, typically round, object usually attached to an article of
clothing in order to secure an opening, or for ornamentation. Button is made of
plastic or metal. Example, 12L, 16L, 18L, 24L, 26L, 28L, 32L, 36L etc.
Normally size of button is measured by “Ligne”.
We know that,
1 Ligne = 0.025inch or 0.635 mm 28L
Types of Button:
According to number of holes button can be classified as- 17.8mm
2 hole button &
4 hole button
Ligne no:
It is the measuring unit of the button. It indicates the diameter of button. If
diameter increases, ligne no also increases.
Where,
1 Ligne = 0.025inch or 0.635 mm
Uses: Normally used in kids wear, jacket, cargo pants, medical textiles, shoes,
belts, bags etc.
2. Rivet:
The uses of rivet are mostly seen at jeans pant and heavy garments. Rivet is a
small metal bolt which is used two parts of tension place in garments. It is a
fastening device contains two parts. Widely used for decorative and
reinforcement purpose of denim or jeans garments.
3. Snap:
Snap is a fastening device that contains four parts.
4. Buckle:
Metal buckle used in waist band of trench coat.
5. Patch:
To attach back side of waist belt of jeans which contain brand name. Made of
leather or rexgine. It is used for decorative purpose.
7. Butterfly:
The uses of butterfly are mostly seen in the front part of collar of shirts where
button is attached. Generally made of plastic or paper.
8. Collar Stay:
Normally collar stay is used in collar points of a shirt which is invisible.
9. Collar Stand:
Generally made of plastic or paper to keep the shape of the collar.
12. Clip:
A clip is a device which holds the fold portion of the garment together by means
of pressure.
Fig: Stopper
16. Poly Bag:
A poly bag is a plastic bag used for packing garments. The garment is first
folded as per direction of the order sheet then is packed. There are two types of
poly bag used in garments packing; one is single poly bag in that a single
garment is packed and the other is blister poly bag in that more than one
garment are packed. For packing the garments into blister poly bag, packing
instructions must be followed.
17. Carton:
It is used in packing garments ready for shipment. Carton box is made by using
ply board. The dimensions of the cartons depend on buyer instructions and the
number of pieces of garments in each carton is given in the order sheet.
Sometimes a carton is also called a box. Number of ply indicates the quality of
a carton. Generally 3, 5, 7, 9 ply cartons are available.
Fig: Hook & eye Fig: Price tag Fig: Hang tag
21. Tag pin: Help to hang the price ticket & others tag.
22. Hanger:
Hanger is used for hanging the garments. It is important for hang shirt, coat and
also different kinds of garments.
25. Belt:
D-
ring
Fig: Size clip Fig: Size strip Fig: Belt
27. Photo-in-lay:
Photo-in-lay is used for packing Santo ganji.
What is Applique?
Additional fabric added in the face side of the garments for increasing the
beauty of the dress which is called applique. It is made by Laser cutting
machine and attached by sewing in embroidery section.
Fig: Applique
Seam:
Seam is a joint where two or more plies of fabric are held together.
Stitch
Seam
Sewing:
The process of joining of fabric by the use of needle and sewing thread is called
sewing.
One loop of one thread One loop of one thread One thread passes over
passes through another passes through another another thread. Here, two
loop of another thread. loop of the same thread. threads are used.
Here, two threads are Here, one thread is used.
used.
Sub-Classes:
a). 101:
Feature:
Uses temporary purposes which can easily pick up.
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom hemming of dress pants.
Features:
Hand stitch is passed completely from one side to the other.
Hand stitch is originally made by hand but now can be formed by sewing
machine.
The appearance of face and back are same.
Uses:
Hand stitch is used for decorative purposes.
It is specially used in collar, pocket, front placket, shoulder etc.
Sub-Classes:
a) 202(Hand Stitch): This type of stitch is formed by hand.
Fig. Hand stitch
b) 209: This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’.
Uses: Top stitch lapel of blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.
Saddle stitch:
A special type of stitch which is formed by pique stitch machine using thick
thread. It is used in Cowboy jeans.
Features:
This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called
needle thread and another set is called looper thread.
Seam security extremely high.
Face and back has same appearance.
The stitch is difficult to pick up.
Disadvantages:
Very poor elasticity.
Bobbin thread required frequently changing.
Fig. Lock stitch
b) 304(Zig-zag stitch):
Needle Thread
Bobbin Thread
Features:
This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads one set is called
needle thread and another set is called looper thread.
One side of stitch is like lock stitch and other side is like chain.
Elasticity is good.
It is widely used for making knitted garments.
Disadvantages:
Seam security is not strong.
Sub-Classes:
Bottom Side
Uses: Waist band of jeans, inseam of jeans.
Fabric
Bottom Side
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt and Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs.
Hemming:
The process of sewing of an edge or border on a piece of cloth, especially a
finished edge, as for a garment or curtain, made by folding an edge under and
stitching it down. e.g. Bottom edge of a shirt.
Uses: Only Uses: Edging Uses: Edging Uses: Edging & sewing. These stitches
for edging. and light and heavy are lightly extensible.
seaming. seaming.
Note:
503,504,514 are British Standard & 515 & 516 (Combination Stitch) are US
Standard.
Features:
This type of stitch is formed by 4 sets of thread 2 sets thread is called
needle thread and another 2 sets are top and bottom covering threads or
looper threads.
This stitch is used for sewing under wear for attaching lace, braid, elastic
etc.
Sub-Classes:
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses: Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt and decorative purpose.
Fabric
Bottom Side
Uses:
Bottom and sleeve hem of T-shirt& Polo-shirt, elastic band of briefs and
decorative purpose.
Features:
Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing
together.
Most commonly used.
The fabric ends are in same direction.
This class seam can be sewn a variety of machine.
e.g. Lock stitch or over lock machine.
Features:
This type of seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric over
lapping each other.
Two sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction.
Mostly two needle chain stitch machine is used.
Seam under this class is very strong.
Features:
A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of
another piece of fabric.
The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
Sometime used as decorative purpose.
There are 18 variations of bound seam.
Uses: Neckline of a T-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt, waist band, underwear.
Features:
Flat seam are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely
of their edges.
Seam thickness is comparatively less.
Zig-zag stitch may be produced.
Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid tearing
Lock stitch is used for form this seam type.
Features:
This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch lines in
one or more layer of fabric.
Multi needle sewing machine is used.
Seam under this class are produced only for decorative purpose.
Features:
Seam under this class are produced in such a way so that the fabric ends
from out area cannot come out during use.
It can be used extensively.
It can be made by overlock machines.
Neatening:
The process of sewing with cutting edge of the fabric so that the slack yarn can
not be opened.
Features:
These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to
a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace, elastic.
Elastic
Fig: Seam Class-7
Features:
Mainly one piece of fabric used.
This class is commonly used for waist belt and belt loop.
The edge of fabric is sewn by folding in various ways.
Staple polyester
Key Characteristics:
Exceptionally strong.
The continuous filament core (Having high tenacity) provides superior
strength while the staple polyester cover helps to protect the inner core
from damage due to needle heat.
Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of
materials.
Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on
strength, thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker.
Uses:
Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear, jeans
& work clothes.
Key Characteristics:
High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high
abrasion resistance.
Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.
Uses:
Mainly for over edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers,
knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.
Key Characteristics:
100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared
to those in synthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing
tension and high stitch densities.
Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.
During sewing, cotton thread is not damaged at high temperature
generated by needle.
100% cotton thread is mercerized (treatment with caustic solution under
tension) to provide greater luster and higher strength.
Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.
Key features:
Provides high softness and comfort.
High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.
Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. underwear,
Swim wear, baby wear etc.
Also widely used in over locking and covering stitches for high extensibility
and seam security.
This thread has been developed to improve the properties cotton and to
get the opportunities of both cotton and polyester fibre.
Very low shrinkage, good strength and cotton core protects poly core
from needle heat and high ironing temperature.
e.g. sylko(coats).
International:
Coats.
A&E (American & Efrad)
Local:
Etafil
Well thread
Fabian.
Ticket number:
Ticket number is a number which expresses the fineness or coarseness of
sewing thread. Higher ticket number, finer the sewing thread.
Example:
60/3, 90/5 means 60 & 90 are yarn count and 3 & 5 are no. of ply.
60/3 = 20 = 20 3 = 60 (Ticket no.) Here, Red color 3 is constant.
90/5 = 18 = 18 3 = 54 (Ticket no.)
Formula: Ne = 0.59 Nm
Where,
Ne = Cotton ticket number
Nm= Metric ticket number
Problem:
Cotton of a sewing thread is 60/3 Ne. What will be its metric ticket number?
Solution:
1. Fabric defects:
These are defects that are found in the fabric, mostly these are not caused by the
sewing lines. e.g. running shade, selvedge to selvedge shade, holes, staining
mark, missing yarn, foreign yarn, slub, hairiness etc.
Note: Workmanship means all the details such as measurement, outlook, ways
of attaching trims, packing etc.
2. Workmanship defect:
a) Seam Puckering:
Refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering
causing an unacceptable seam appearance.
This problem arises due to uneven stretching on to plies of fabric during sewing,
improper thread tension, wrong sewing thread selection , dimensional instability
of the plies of fabric etc.
b) Shading Variations within different parts:
Arises due to improper cutting, bundling and numbering.
Fig. Button Attaching Sewing Machine Fig. Snap & Shank Button Attaching Machine
Feed Dog
Presser Foot: The presser foot works Needle: The needle carries the upper
with the feed dog to move fabric thread through the fabric to create a stitch.
evenly through the machine.
Needle
Presser
foot
Hand Wheel
Reverse
Stitch
Lever
Presser Foot Lifter: Clutch Knob: Used to prevent the needle and
Raises and lowers the presser foot. take-up lever from moving when winding the
Always have the foot down when sewing. bobbin.
Presser
Foot
Lifter
Clutch Knob
Stitch
Width
Regulator
Stitch Length
Regulator
Thread
Tension
Control
Needle
Clamp
Screw
Sewing Needle:
Needle is used to sew the fabric by thread. Different stitching is formed by the
needle. Needle is different is size which is expressed by Needle Number (Nm).
We know needle types also differ depending on its end use.
1. Butt:
Butt is top end of the needle which is inserted into the needle bar/clamp.
2. Shank:
The thicker part of the needle held by the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It
supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength.
3. Shoulder:
Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade.
4. Blade:
It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is
responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.
5. Long groove:
There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. Long groove safe the
sewing thread from the abrasion of fabric with thread.
6. Short groove:
Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper. It
helps to make the loop of needle thread.
7. Eye:
The hole at the end of the needle. Thread is passed through the needle eye. It
prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.
8. Scarf (Clearance):
Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just above
the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting of the hook or looper to the needle.
9. Point:
It provides the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to
its nature and the desired stitch effect.
10. Tip:
It is the bottom point of a needle. It should be sharp for easy penetration.
Object of pressing:
1. To remove unwanted crease and crinkles from the garments.
2. To give shape particular parts of the garments.
e.g. front and back part of dress pants, front and back part of blazer.
3. To create permanent creases in the garments.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.
Types of pressing:
1. No pressing: Here, pressing is not so necessary.
e.g. specially underwear, swimwear etc.
2. Minimum pressing: Here, pressing is done only by heat but no need
pressure.
e.g. sweater and night gowns.
3. Under pressing: Some parts of the garments are pressed after cutting and
before sewing.
e.g. front and back part of blazer, dress pants are ironed before sewing
etc.
4. Final pressing: This is general pressing to all garments after sewing.
e.g. jacket, trouser, skirt etc.
5. Permanent pressing: Some garments are pressed to create permanent
crease this is called permanent pressing.
e.g. permanent pleat in the skirt, lapel of blazer.
1. Solid color solid size: Here, color of garments and size will be same when
packed into carton. The carton contains same color and same size.
2. Solid color assorted size: Here, color of garments will be same but size of
garments will be different when packed into carton. The carton contains same
color and different size.
3. Assorted color solid size: Here, color of garments will be different but size
of garments will be same when packed into carton. The carton contains different
color and same size.
Example: Size: M
Ratio: 2 : 2 : 2 : 2 : 2
10 pcs/carton
Color: W Y R G B
4. Assorted color assorted size: Here, color of garments and size will be
different when packed into carton. The carton contains different color and
different size.
Example:
Basically, we will randomly select a sampling size quantity (based on the AQL
tables) to be inspected. After inspection according to the number of defects
found (critical, major, minor defects), we will advice to accept or to reject our
shipment from the chart of AQL.
The faults or defects which are found during inspection are mainly classified
into four categories:
1. Critical: Must be 100% accurate that means 0%.
2. Major: Normally 2.5%
3. Minor: Normally 4%
4. Slight: Normally 6.5%
Lot or Batch Size Sample Size Sample Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
Code Letter Size 2.5% 4.0% 6.5%
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
2-8 A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9-15 B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
16-25 C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
26-50 D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2
51-90 E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3
91-150 F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4
151-280 G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6
281-500 H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8
501-1200 J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11
1201-3200 K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15
3201-10000 L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22
10001-35000 M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22
350001-150000 N 500 16 18 23 25 23 25
150001-500000 O 800 18 20 25 28 25 27
500000 and over P 1250 20 22 28 30 28 30
Example:
Suppose you have been offered a shipment of 30,000 pieces for inspection.
Select the range from table, it is 10001-35000. Now from table you have to
select number of sample you are going to actually inspect. According the above
table you will select 315 pieces out of 30000 pieces. Now assume that you are
inspecting at 2.5 AQL. So, after inspecting all 315 pieces if you find 14 or less
than 14 defective pieces will accept the shipment. And if you find 15 or more
than 15 defective pieces in 315 samples you will reject that shipment.
Sample size:
It means that how many pieces will be picked up for inspection from the total
offered pieces (Batch).
Ac (Accepted):
The number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds up to that much
defective pieces the shipment will be accepted by buyer.
Re (Rejected):
On the other hand number in this column denotes that if the inspector finds that
much defective pieces or more than the listed number, the shipment will be
rejected (or asked to the manufacturer for 100% inspection and re-offer for final
inspection) by buyer.
Woven Fabric:
1. Poplin Weave:
133 72
Poplin =
40 40
Higher EPI and PPI. Finer Count. Yarn count is more than 30.
Uses: Shirt, blouse, jackets, coats etc.
133 72
Sheeting=
40 40
Equal EPI and PPI. Yarn count 20 – 30 Ne.
Uses: Mattress cover and bed sheets.
96 76
Calico=
14 14
Yarn count 11 – 20 Ne.
Uses: Bed sheets, apron and light summer clothing.
72 48
Canvas=
7 7
Yarn count 6 – 10 Ne.
Uses: Slip covers, shoe fabrics, boat covers etc.
110 76
Taffeta=
70D 70
Made by polyester/ Nylon.
Uses: Lining and evening wear.
96 72
Teslan=
70D 140D
It is also used for lining of blazer. Made by polyester/ nylon but
heavier than taffeta.
Denim fabric:
a. Basic denim: 3/1 basic denim.
b. Ring denim: 2/1, there are 7, 9, 12 count of yarn used.
c. Slub denim: Only warp slub (one way slub) and weft slub (cross slub).
d. Cross hatch denim: Warp and weft count variation.
e. Stretch denim: Weft yarn (elastomer).
f. Poly denim: Polyester used in weft.
Engineering Stripe:
If the repeat length of the stripe is above 4cm then it is called engineering stripe.
Fig: T-shirt
Fig: Polo-shirt
4. Kansai Special:
Box pleat or multi-needle sewing, bottom & cuff with elastic in jacket.
4. Feed of the arm/ back tape m/c (2N+2L) Double stitch class- 406.
For joining tape inside neck or shoulder or outside neck.
05 Placket matching with front Placket matching with front is done on the
table.
09 Matching (Front & Back Part) Matching (Front & Back Part) is done on the
table.
26 Inspection all back process Inspection all back process is done on the
table.
Care Label:
Care label is a component or trimming of garment which contains some
internationally recognized symbols that indicate the care instructions of the
garment. These symbols are called care label codes. Care label codes are used
for perfect caring of garments.
History:
The care label was introduced in Europe about 1950. It’s a voluntary service so
it was not regulated by any authority. It originated in The Netherlands and then
spread to France and the other European countries as a voluntary service to the
consumers offered by the textile and apparel industry. The care labeling code
was protected by an international trademark, to control the correct application.
The ownership of this international trademark belongs GINETEX, this
International Association for Textile Care Labeling, has developed symbolic
care labeling system in 1975.
International Standard:
ISO 3758 1991 provides a code of reference for the use of these symbols. The
GINETEX care labeling system consists of five basic symbols for washing,
bleaching, ironing, drying, dry cleaning and an extra symbol for wring. The
symbols and their descriptions are shown in the following.
3. Drying Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the hottest
(normal) available temperature setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a low heat setting.
(normal , low
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a medium heat
(normal , medium setting.
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at a high heat
(normal , high setting.
heat)
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at no heat or air only
(normal , no heat) setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the permanent
(permanent press) press setting.
Tumble dry Machine dryer is used at the gentle setting.
(gentle)
Do not tumble dry Machine dryer is not used. Usually
accompanied by an alternate drying method
symbol.
4. Ironing Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Iron in any Ironing is required and can be performed at
temperature any available temperature with or without
(steam or dry) steam.
Iron (low) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at low setting (110°C, 230°F).
Iron (medium) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at medium setting (150°C, 300°F).
Iron (high) Regular ironing, steam or dry, is performed
at high setting (200°C, 390°F).
Do not steam Steam ironing will harm garment, but
regular dry ironing at indicated temperature
setting is acceptable.
Do not iron Ironing is not allowed. Garment can’t be
smoothed or finished with an iron.
6. Wring Symbols:
Symbol Care Instructions Meaning of Symbols
Do not wring Wring is not allowed.
Notes:
1. System of dots indicating that temperature range is same for all
procedures.
2. If there is no bleaching symbol mentioned, it means any type of bleach is
allowed.
3. GINETEX states that "milder forms of treatment and lower temperatures
than those indicated on the label are always permitted."
4. A cross on any of the symbol means that the treatment shall not be used
and a bar under the symbols indicates milder treatment is required.
Compliant
Semi Compliant &
Non-Compliant
ISO:
International Organization for Standardization is the world’s developer and
publisher of international standards.
ISO is a network of the national standards institutes of 164 countries,
with a central secretarial in GENEVA, Switzerland that coordinates the
system.
ISO is a non-governmental organization that forms a bridge between the
public and private sectors. It was established in 1947.
Purpose of ISO:
Harmonization of standards.
To facilitate the world trade and transfer of technology.
Structure of ISO:
ISO
Benefits to customers:
Improve quality and service.
Delivery on time.
Right first time attitude.
Fewer returned products and complaints
Independent and demonstrates commitment to quality.
Objective of BEPZA:
Boost up Foreign and Local Investment
Accelerate Volume of Export
Create Job Opportunity
Poverty Alleviation
Transfer of Technology and Skill Development
Development of Backward and Forward Linkage Industries
Promote Accessories and Supportive Service Enterprises
About EPZ
An export processing zone (EPZ) is defined as a territorial or economic enclave
in which goods may be imported and manufactured and reshipped with a
reduction in duties / and/or minimal intervention by custom officials (World
Bank 1999).
EPZ Provides:
Plots/factory BLDG in custom bonded area
Infrastructural facilities
Administrative facilities
Fiscal & non-fiscal incentives
EPZ attracts : foreign & local investment
Website:
http://bepza.gov.bd/