Reflective Journal on

BAROQUE PERIOD
(1600-1750)

(Re-Sit Assignment: JEWELRY DESIGN & CULTURE)

Term II

Submitted to:
STEFANO CAGGIANO

Submitted by:
SHEIKH HABIB ALI

MASTERS IN FINE JEWELRY DESIGN

ISTITUTO MARANGONI
 TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. ABSTRACT .........…………………………………………………………………………….… 3
2. INTRODUCTION ……………………………………………………………………………….. 4
2.1. Baroque Techniques .................................................................................................4
2.2. Baroque Styles
2.2.1. Early Baroque .............................................................................................5
2.2.2. Late Baroque ..............................................................................................5
2.3. Materials ...................................................................................................................6
2.4. Types Of Jewelry ......................................................................................................7
3. CONCLUSION …………………………………………………………………………….……. 7
4. LEARNING OUTCOME ....…………………………………………………………………..… 8
5. REFERENCES ……...………………………………………………………………………..… 8

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 1. ABSTRACT

It was absolutely a kind of luxury for women to refine themselves with jewelry during the
17th century. The form of arts and innovations in this period is described as “Baroque”. The
jewelry that distinguishes Baroque tended to be linear in design and mono-tone in
color. Bow and flower were the dominant motifs. The 17th century marked an increase in the
brandishing of jewelry that spread all over Europe. Large breast ornaments, jeweled pins and
hairpieces designed with the finest and most extravagant jeweled pieces show new
enthusiasm for impressive accessories that courts wore with regalia. Instead of wearing a bevy
of jeweled pieces, rich people started wearing stunningly high-quality pieces. Louis XIV was
the King of France, who wore jewelry to great excess in history.

Brazil became the main source of diamonds. With the improving gem cutting
technique, diamonds became apparent from basic point-and-table cut to the brilliant. Pearl
necklace was fashionable neck ornament. Its popularity is proofed by its images appeared
ubiquitously in the contemporary portraits, notably in the works of Anthony van Dyck (1599-
1641) and written materials.

The study examines how the baroque took over in the 17th century.

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 2. INTRODUCTION

With the start of the 17th century Renaissance jewelry evolved

gradually into a new style. From 1625 on, we see a clear reaction
against the rigid and contorted dresses that had been worn by the
ladies of the Renaissance. Soft, flowing dresses with low
necklines became the gowns of preference and new jewelry was
created to go with the new fashion.

The second half of the 17th century was subject to religious

conflicts which divided Europe and caused many protestant
craftsmen to flee their Catholic countries of birth and seek asylum
in the protestant states like those of the Republic of the
Netherlands. The French court became the new leading fashion
trendsetter.

During the Renaissance this role had been fulfilled by the

Habsburg courts of Spain and Austria, bringing uniformity in court
dress by diplomatic marriages and political influences.

International trade flourished which allowed a middle class of

merchants and craftsmen to rise and increase their wealth
considerably. This allowed the bourgeoisie to start buying the kind
of jewelry which, up until then, had been reserved for nobles. It is
in the 17th century that retail jewelers emerge, distinct from the
craftsman jeweler of the past.

2.1. BAROQUE TECHNIQUES

From Renaissance to Baroque

The last years of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th
saw a gradual change of appearance in jewelry. The use
of arabesque motifs, symmetry and a different type of gemstone
setting caused these changes. This was a natural evolution of
styles which connected the two decorative periods. Designs by
men like Mignot and Lulls spread all over Europe and triggered
the new wind that blew through jewelry design.

Image: An Antique Cameo, Surrounded by a Symmetrical

Array of Diamonds, Rubies and Enamelled Gold.

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Figure work eventually fell from fashion and the emphasis on bright colors created with enamel
slowly made room for the brilliance of gemstones on gold. The arabesque motifs were often
engraved 'en silhouette' in metal or carried out in champleve enamel.
The motifs were excellent ways to decorate large flat surfaces such as miniature cases as well
as watch cases, which were a new appearance in the repertoire of jewelry items. Gemstone
setting was now focused on highlighting and enhancing the gem, a result of the increased
quality attained by improved cutting and foiling techniques. More advanced cutting designs
also allowed for a much greater diversity of available shapes and jewelers began putting
emphasis on displaying the stones themselves instead of just on the sculpted goldwork.

2.2. BAROQUE STYLES

2.2.1. Early Baroque
From the end of the second decade of the 17th-century
jewelry designs started to become more and more naturalistic.
This tendency started in France but soon spread over Europe
through printed designs. 'Cosse-de-pois' (pea pod) shapes
and later flowers became very popular and over the 3rd and
4th decade many designs in this fashion were produced.
Exotic flowers were immensely popular and botany became a
study in its own right. The intensification of the trade with the
near East had brought flowers to Europe which had never
been seen before and a true craze for them was sparked.
The Tulipomania of 1634 is an extraordinary example.

Flora, fashionable in embroidery since the end of the 16th century, was now adopted by
jewelry designers as well. Painted enamel, champleve enamel and email on ronde
bosseflowers were everywhere. From the 1650's on engraving in metal was another,
and later preferred, way of depicting flowers.

2.2.2. Late Baroque

The second half of the 17th century saw the
importance of faceted gemstones in designs increase even
further. Gem mountings became more delicate and the
designs moved away from cluster settings to naturalism
and ribbon bows. The bow is one of the most prevalent
features of Baroque jewelry. Its origin is in the ribbon that
was used to secure a jewel to a robe and turned into a popular motif itself. Made
of precious metal and decorated with gemstones, pearls and enamel, the
bow brooch or pendant is seen on many portraits and designs.

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 By the end of the 17th century asymmetrical bouquets or individual
flowers prevailed and the use of enamel diminished to the point that
it was only to be found in the most conservative circles. A
differentiation between jewelry meant to be worn during the day and
jewelry that was enhanced by the soft glow of candle light emerged.
This tendency developed further over the Georgian period.

2.3. MATERIALS

From portraits it becomes clear that the new fashion in flowing dresses with low necklines was
most commonly complemented by the wearing of sets of pearl jewelry. The Persian Gulf was
the premier supplier of the extremely popular pearl in those days. Imitation pearls were also
produced as is illustrated by a patent by a Parisian gentleman called Jaquin which dates from
the 17th century. Glass spheres would be lined with a mix of ground fish scales and varnish,
after which the sphere would be filled with wax to provide strength.

Source:
https://www.google.co.in/search?biw=1265&bih=660&tbm=isch
&sa=1&ei=raE8W5S7MoP4UPrkt5AJ&q=baroque+fashion&oq=
baroque+fashion&gs_l=img.3..0l10.2862.3862.0.4059.7.3.0.4.4.
0.109.309.1j2.3.0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.7.400....0.hIVL29s06XU

Diamonds were extremely popular as well during the Baroque period. Their availability had
greatly increased as a result of intensified trading with India by the Portuguese, British and
Dutch trading companies who reached the country by sea. An important diamond deposit was
found in the early 17th century: that of Hyderabad in the Golconda region. Tavernier visited
several diamond mining areas in India and his accounts tell us about the vast magnitude of the
operations.
The term 'brilliant' started to be used to describe faceted diamonds. The
Baroque Brilliants were predominantly square to cushion shaped, with short bezel facets, an
open culet and rather steep pavilions and crowns. In order to enhance the idea of size,
diamonds were now set in silver and foiled to enhance their sparkle at parties lit by candle
light. Most diamonds from those days have been subjected to re-cutting into more modern
shapes in order to increase their value.

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 Of the colored stones ruby, emerald and topaz were among the most
prized species. High-quality imitation jewelry with strass (paste) was
being produced on a large scale in order to meet the increased
demand of the growing bourgeoisie.

2.4. TYPES OF JEWELRY

As mentioned previously, parures of pearl jewelry, often containing a

short necklace, drop earrings, a string for the hair and dress clasps
for the bodice, sleeves, and waist, are encountered in a great many
of the portraits from the Baroque period. The earrings were often
simple drop shaped pearls suspended from a golden earring but, by
the 1650's, more elaborate styles started to be worn. The most
typical and well-known earring type from the late 17th century is
the girandole, an earring which comprises a central piece from which
three dangling ornaments are suspended.

Men's jewelry was most extravagant in France. This is most certainly reflected in the period
during the reign of Louis XIV who, by the end of his life, had an enormous collection of jewelry
and precious stones. Mainly due to the efforts of Cardinal Mazarinquite a few famous
diamonds were present in this collection. In England, men's jewelry was more restrained.

3. CONCLUSION

The Baroque period, which lasted from 1600 to 1775, had a lasting impact on the architecture,
art, music, dress code and jewelry of this time period. It has helped to shape and inspire not
only classical masterpieces but also fashion and jewelry design of the modern era.

Before the Baroque period, jewelry was made using colored enamel. However, as jewelers
become more skilled in cutting gemstones, they started to produce necklaces, earrings, rings,
bracelets and tiaras that can be described as being nothing short of masterpieces. These
jewelry items are distinguishable from those of earlier time periods because the metal work
and gemstones are highlighted. Items made during this time were clearly meant to express
jewelers’ creativity and originality.

Jewelry with engraved flowers also become quite popular, as was flower shaped gold and
silver jewelry pieces. This was in part due to the fact that greater exploration of various
countries was taking place at this time and individuals were just becoming acquainted with
exotic flower species they had not seen before. Pearls were also very popular; however, many
of the most wealthy men and women from this time period preferred to wear colorful
gemstones instead.

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 4. LEARNING OUTCOME

The most famous masterpeices of the era were:

• The Victoria and Albert Museum in the UK houses some extraordinary jewelry from this
time period. Some well known pieces include the Necklace with Sapphire Pendant, a
breast ornament enameled gold set with diamonds, an enameled gold Gimmel ring set
with a diamond and a pomander dating back to 1600 – 1650.

• The Emperor Akbar Baroque Pearl Drop Pendant is yet another well known jewelry
piece from this time period. It was put up for auction in 1999; however, the identities of
the seller and buyer are not known.

Anyone who appreciates antique jewelry is sure to find that jewelry items made in the Baroque
period are of exquisite and unique beauty. This time is unique in history, as it is marked by
heightened creativity not just in jewelry making but also in fashion, architecture, art and more.
The advances made during this time period continue to inspire modern jewelry makers to this
day and it is not hard to find imitation Baroque style jewelry for sale both at brick and mortar
outlets and on the internet.

5. REFERENCES

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baroque
• https://www.raymondleejewelers.net/baroque-jewelry/
• http://www.langantiques.com/university/Baroque_Jewelry
• https://www.jewelsforme.com/gem_and_jewelry_library/baroque-jewelry
• https://www.britannica.com/art/jewelry/The-history-of-jewelry-design
• https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/a-history-of-jewellery