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SolarCoolTM…The Hotter it
Gets, The Better It Works!
This print is in black/ white. You may see the colored version as pdf on:
www.sednaaireeurope.com/index.php/en/?option=com_content&view=article&id=141
Table of Contents
Topic Page
1. Product Overview 3
2. Site & Equipment Preparation 7
3. Installing the Rack System 8
3.1. Tiled roofs 8
3.2. Tiled Roofs + 30° triangle 10
3.3. Wall Mount 11
3.4. Flat Roof/ Ground Mount 11
4. Connecting the Solar Panel to the Air Conditioner SWM/CMO/SLC 13
5. Trouble Shooting 17
IMPORTANT
The installation shall be only performed by trained and skilled service
personnel having the appropriate instruments. SolarCool does not take
over any responsibility for direct and indirect damages caused by
installation from unskilled and untrained persons.
04020060101 © SolarCool Europe GmbH 2 09/2013
1. Product Overview
How does Solar Air Conditioning from SolarCool work ?
Refrigerant arrives at the compressor as cool, low-pressure gas
Compressor compresses refrigerant creating pressure and raising the refrigerant’s
temperature.
Refrigerant leaves compressor as hot gas and flows into the solar panel
Function of the solar panel: It helps increasing the refrigerant’s temperature
Hot gas enters condenser coil and starts cooling down, thus returning to a liquid state.
The liquid enters the expansion valve, where the pressure declines. From there the liquid
moves forward to the evaporator and evaporates as gas.
The evaporation process removes heat from its environment, thus cooling the environment
From there the refrigerant is sucked by the compressor and a new cycle starts
Vacuum tube
Vacuum tube
Aluminium fin Aluminium fin Hot terminal
Hot terminal
Cool terminal
Standard Roof
Mounting System
Tile roof
Roof mounted
+30° for roofs
with low slope
Wall mounted
Ground
Mounting System
Components
The Mounting Brackets are designed for roof and wall mount installations.
They are made of 5mm thick stainless steel, contain holes for assembly with
lag screws and are manufactured in a mill finish. They may be used for roof
and wall attachment.
Snow load
The installation kits for roof mounting are designed for snow load zone2 according to EN 1991-1-3
(Eurocode 1 - Actions on structures - Part 1-3: General actions - Snow load) and a height of max. 1.000 m
above sea-level. If your location exceeds these limits, please check with your local building authorities and
engineers, how many of the Add-on Kits “Snow” you need. Most typically 2 additional brackets would fit (in
total 6 brackets per panel), but SolarCool gives no guarantee for withstanding your snow loads. Please
check your local building authorities.
WARNING
When receiving the Solar panel do a visual inspection to make sure there
is no damage to the panel before accepting the delivery. If the panel
shows any signs of shipping damage* do reject the delivery and request
the wholesaler to replace the panel. SolarCool will not accept
responsibility for errors and malfunctions caused by the installation of
damaged panels.
* damage like silver powder residue at the bottom of the tube
WARNING
Check your local building codes for the requirements of your rack
installation, i.e. wind load and snow load. Check if the supplied kit fulfills
these requirements. SolarCool does not take over responsibility for
damages due to neglect of local building codes or wrong assembly.
Step 2
Pick up the tiles at all identified corners (upper and lower row!). Make
sure, that the brackets can be screwed to the truss of the roof. The
given horizontal distance of 1 200 mm is approximate and varies with
the distance of the rafters. The brackets shall lie under the solar panel.
If the horizontal distance exceeds 1 200mm, add an additional brackets
in between the outer brackets. Start now at the upper row.
Remove raisings on the surface of the tile so that the bracket will not
crack the tile.
Step 4
Predrill the rafter for the lag screws (M8) with Ø 4 mm driller.
Step 5
Screw the bracket with minimum 2 lag screws and a minimum length of
60 mm into the rafter. Use additional layers between rafter and bracket,
if you need to elevate the bracket from the rafter
Step 6
Put tile back and check if bracket does fit well. Tile shall not be
damaged and distance between upper and lower tile not too big.
Otherwise snow would be able to penetrate between the tiles and cause
wetness beneath the roof. (especially on roofs with low slopes)
Step 8
!!!! Lay the panel on the rails making sure the header with its
connecting pipes being positioned lower than the black end caps
of the tubes. This avoids oil traps in the U-bendings of the copper
pipes within the solar panel !!!
Mounting the panel in an upside-down position is unique to our
application of using it for refrigerants. Solarthermal panels heating
up only water don’t have to care about this positioning, but panels
with refrigerant flowing through them do have to care.
Step 9
Mount the solar panel at its left and right C-profile onto the rails .
Handle the panel ONLY at the C-Profile and NEVER on the glass
tubes. They would break.
Step 9
Mount the solar panel’s left and right C-profile onto the upper horizontal rails, as shown in chapter 3.1 .
The header shall lay lower than the black end caps of the tubes. Handle the panel ONLY at the
C-Profile and NEVER on the glass tubes. They would break.
Ground
Short horizontal leg plate
Nuts&
bolts
Horizontal bars
Step 2
The header shall be at the bottom, while the tube’s black end
caps face upwards. This avoids oil traps in the U-bendings of
the panel.
Screw the small adjustable tilt angles to the header of the
panels.
Step 3
Put up the panel on the lower angles, raise it up at an angle
higher than 50° and place a support beam under the upper rail.
So the panel will not come down again. This gives you enough
space to mount the longer legs at the rear end of the panel
Step 4
Mount the corner plate on the top of the long leg. The long
edge of the plate is parallel to the 45° cut-off from the rail
Step 7
Connect the longer legs to the solar panel at the black end
caps of the tubes. You will be required to drill one more hole for
the triangle plate, since we mount the panel upside down
Step 8
Assemble the X-cross between the longer legs at the rear side.
Assemble the smaller support beams between the longer legs
and the C-profile at the left and right side of the panel
Step 9
Remove the support beam and lower the panel with its long
legs carefully on the bottom
Step 10
Lay one long rail (1 700 mm) beneath the plates of the left legs
(short at the front and long at the rear). Make sure that the long
rail exceeds the legs on both sides equally. Screw the plates to
the rail
or
Lay one long rail (1 700 mm) beneath the plates of the front
legs (short at the front). Make sure that the long rail exceeds
the legs on both sides equally. Screw the plates to the rail
Step 11
Repeat step 6 for the right side or respectively for the back side
Step 12 - Flat roof
Place appropriate weights on the rails laying on the bottom. Make sure they are heavy enough and do
not fall off the rails. Fix them to the rails
Step 12 - Ground
Place appropriate weights on the rails laying on the bottom. Make sure they are heavy enough and do
not fall of the rails. Fix them to the rails - or
Mount the bottom rails to anchors provided in the ground. Make sure that no corrosion will occur
between steel anchors and aluminum rails by using rust prohibiting liquids
C
C A
B
7. The best cut position is at this pipe between the
compressor’s discharge/exit and the entry into the
4-way valve. Cut either before or after the filter,
what is more convenient for you.
8. Unclip the sensor (C). If the electronic box and
magnetic actuator of the 4-way valve are too close
to the cutting point, dismount them too!! So you
won’t harm them during cutting and brazing. Mark
all plugs with a water proof pen before you unplug
them, e.g. 1–1 for one plug on both cables, 2–2
for next plug. Then you will be sure to re-plug the
cables correctly. Hang the wires away for shelter
and make sure not to break them.
11. Cut the pipe at the identified position (e.g. here B).
Deburr the cuts and clean the inside and outside !
12. Bend the pipes near to the holes made in the
casing. Use a bending spring !!! NO KINKS !
If you do not you have a high
risk to create a kink, which is
definitely not acceptable. If
you made a kink, remove it.
B If you don’t, the system will
not work properly.
13. Take 1/2“ copper pipes (certified for refrigerant
purpose) and provide for respective length from
the cut position to the outside. The diameter of the
new copper must be min. 1/2 “ !
14. Make all necessary bendings in the two copper
pipes before brazing. Do it for both ends
respectively. Slip the pipes on without brazing.
Check if the new piping made does not collide
with the terminal plate, the electronic box, actuator
of the 4-way valve (all the things you have
disassembled and will lateron need to mount
again).
15. Slip off the copper pipes and clean them for
brazing. Put the first pipe on again. Make sure that
the new pipe slips on well. Don’t forget eventual
swedging and to put the nut flange on the other
B end of the copper pipe.
16. Apply Nitrogen to the piping (A) and turn on a
small volume flow.
A 17. Shelter the backside of the brazing position with a
heat shelter (B) to avoid any damages to the
piece-parts around it.
19. If the modification of the condenser unit has not been done at the unit’s final place, e.g. a work bench,
perform a leakage test with the condenser unit itself before moving it. Apply min. 10 bar nitrogen to the
condenser unit, let it sit for at least 60 min, check for pressure loss and check the brazing with a
liquid/soap mixture or other suitable material. This will avoid unnecessary moving and second work on
your side lateron.
20. Clip the removed sensors at the same location from where you have removed them. The temperature
sensor next to the compressor’s discharge has to be placed BEFORE THE CUT !! Re-assemble all
other parts which you have removed: electronic box, sensors, case crank heater, electric terminal plate
etc.
21. Lay the refrigerant piping, starting from the newly made copper pipes coming out of the condenser unit
going to the solar panel (to and from). Use copper pipes with min. 1/2” diameter, which are certified for
refrigerant usage. First connect them with the pipes at the condenser unit: brazing, pressing or with
threads and valves.
22. Connect the refrigerant pipings with the pipes coming out of the solar panel (brazing or pressing).
Use the high temperature welding flame (oxygen + acetylene). Only this will create a
safe and tight joint. The brass sucks up much more heat than a normal copper pipe.
With the yellow propane gas as heat source you will have the high risk of getting a leak.
24. Fill nitrogen into the refrigerant circle and make a leakage test
! IMPORTANT. DO THIS ! 90% of problems with SolarCool units are related to refrigerant leaks at
the connections to and from the panel
24.1. Fill Nitrogen into the system and make a pressure test of the refrigerant system. Fill at least
20 bars of Nitrogen into the system to make a pressure test for at least 2 hours. If your bottle
gives only 10 bar, take these but extend the waiting time to more time. If possible let it sit
overnight.
24.2. Apply water/detergent (1-5%) solution on the modified joints. When there is a leak you will
see bubbles immediately.
CAUTION
The pipes to and from the Solar panel get HOT and may easily reach
temperatures up to 100° C. Wrap thermal insulation around them