Malaysia & Singapore (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
MALAYSIA
& SINGAPORE
PERA
w Sungai Sip
Utara
705
photographs
Y
UeKUALA
1
KANGSAR
~
PE7IPOH
KELLIE’S
Simpan
45
detailed maps
20
illustrations
CASTLE 8
Pulai
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
malaysia &
singapore
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE
Contents
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose

Editorial Manager Ankita Awasthi
Design Manager Priyanka Thakur
Project Editors Sandhya Iyer, Shonali Yadav
Project Designers Neha Beniwal, Shipra Gupta
Editors Jayashree Menon, Ipshita Nandi
Designers Pramod Bharti, Anchal Kaushal
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya
Cartographer Alok Pathak
Senior DTP Designer Vinod Harish
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani Figure of temple guardian, Tua Pek Kong
Temple, Sibu, Sarawak
Contributors
David Bowden, Ron Emmons,
Andrew Forbes, Naiya Sivaraj, Richard Watkins
Consultants
Introducing
David Bowden, Nick White Malaysia and
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Linda Whitwam Singapore
Illustrators
Chapel Design and Marketing Ltd, Arun Pottirayil, Discovering
T. Gautam Trivedi
Malaysia and Singapore
Printed and bound in China
First American Edition, 2008
10
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Putting Malaysia
DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, and Singapore
New York, New York 10014
on the Map
Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2013, 2016
18
Copyright © 2008, 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, A Portrait
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic,
of Malaysia
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written and Singapore
permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
22
ISSN: 1542-1554
ISBN: 978-1-4654-4005-1
The History
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance of Malaysia
with American usage; ie the “first floor” is at ground level.
and Singapore
38
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information,
are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any
consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party
websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a
suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our
readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, UK, WC2R 0RL, or email: travelguides@dk.com
Interior of the Inverted Dome Pavilion,
Front cover main image: Thean Hou Chinese Temple, Kuala Lumpur Islamic Arts Museum, Kuala Lumpur
The entrance to Batu Caves, the largest cave temple in Malaysia
Malaysia Region
By Region
Introducing Malaysia 54
Kuala Lumpur 62
Northwest Peninsula 92
Southern
Peninsula 122
Boats and jet-skis off the beaches of Batu Ferringhi
Eastern and Central

Peninsula 138 Entertainment in Entertainment in
Singapore 258 Malaysia 308
Sarawak 156
Outdoor Activities in Outdoor Activities in
Sabah 180 Singapore Malaysia 312
262
Survival Guide
Singapore Street Finder
264 Practical
Information 320
Travelers’ Needs
Travel
Where to Stay Information 330
276
General Index 340
Where to Eat
and Drink 284 Acknowledgments 351
Chinese ceramic vase at the National Shopping in Malaysia 302 Phrase Book 354
Museum, Kuala Lumpur
Singapore Area
By Area
Introducing Singapore
204
The Colonial Core

and Chinatown
212
Little India
and Orchard
Road 230
Farther Afield
242
Shopping in Singapore
252
The grand Raffles Hotel in Singapore
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most from your and important sights described using
visit to Malaysia and Singapore. It provides visuals and maps. Information about
detailed practical information and expert hotels, restaurants, shops and markets,
recommendations. Introducing Malaysia and entertainment and outdoor activities is
Singapore maps the countries, sets them in found in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival
their historical and cultural context, and Guide has tips on everything from
describes events throughout the year. Each making a telephone call to using
region has its own chapter, with its history local transportation.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E Hat Yai
Pattani
P U T T I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E O N T H E M A P 19
Putting Malaysia and
Putting Peninsular
Malaysia on the Map SATUN
PERLIS
Bukit Kayu
Hitam
PATTANI
Yala
Sai Buri
Narathiwat
South China Sea NEPAL BHUTAN CHINA
TAIWAN
Singapore on the Map
Pulau
Bordered by Thailand to the north and Langkawi Kuala
Perlis THAILAND INDIA
The orientation maps show

MYANMAR
connected to Singapore in the south by a Jitra BANGLADESH LAOS
Tumpat VIETNAM
Kota Bharu PHILIPPINES
causeway and a bridge, Peninsular Malaysia NARATHIWAT THAILAND
Kuala Kedah Pasir Mas CAMBODIA
occupies the extreme south of mainland Southeast Alor Star
Asia, lying between 2 and 7 degrees north of the Equator. KEDAH
Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo,

YALA Ketareh Perhentian
Pasir BRUNEI
Islands SRI LANKA
Off the west coast is the Strait of Malacca, while the east Puteh M A L AY S I A
Kuala Besut Pulau
coast looks out onto the South China Sea. The Betong Macang Redang SINGAPORE
Sungai Jeli
majority of Malaysia’s 29 million inhabitants live on
and Singpore, in relation to their

Petani
Banding I N D O N E S I A
the peninsula, heavily concentrated on the west Tasik
Kuala Kerai Merang
Temengor
coast, which includes the capital, Kuala Lumpur. A Butterworth
Grik
Georgetown
NOR
mountainous ridge runs down the center of the Kemubu

Kuala Terengganu
Lawin
neighboring countries. In this

T
peninsula, separating the densely forested and

H-S
Penang Lake Kenering Marang

Selama
OU
Bertam
sparsely populated east coast from the west. TH Padang Gerus Berang
HW
Bagan Serai KELANTAN Tasik Kenyir

PERAK
Y
Rantau Abang
Key
Highway
Taiping Kuala Kangsar
Ipoh
Gua Musang
Merapoh
TERENGGANU
Dungun Pulau Tenggol
book, Malaysia is divided into
six main regions that are each
Major road Kerteh
Railroad
International border
Batu Gajah Brinchang
Je
la
M A L AY S I A Kijal
Pulau Kampar i
Te
State border Pangkor k ai Cukai
covered in a full chapter.

Kuala Lipis
Tapah
Bidor Kuala Tembeling Cherating
Teluk
Intan Jerantut Beserah
Singapore has its own chapter,

PAHANG
Sabak Kuantan
Raub
0 kilometers 50
Bentong Maran
which is further split into

0 miles 50 Sekincan
Pa h a Pekan
ng
SELANGOR Temerloh
Karak
Kuala Selangor
Kapar Kuala
Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo

Pulau
Klang Klang
Jaya
Lumpur
Petaling
NEGERI
SEMBILAN
Kota Bahagia
Muadzam
Shah the key sightseeing areas.
Panting
Bahau
Pulau Tioman
Gulf of South China Sea Ro Kuala Rompin
Kuala m
Thailand Seremban
pin
Pilah
Seribuat
Tampin Gemas Segamat Archipelago
SABAH
Strait M A L A Y S I A Port
of Bandar Seri Dickson Labis Mersing
BRUNEI Begawan
g
Malacca
on
Alor Gajah Jasin

St Tangkak b er Jemaluang Pulau Tinggi
MALACCA Se m
Kuala Lumpur ra Kahang Pulau Sibu
nik
SARAWAK it Malacca JOHOR

.Le
SINGAPORE
of Muar Keluang
M
A locator map shows
see page 20–21
al Air Hitam
Borneo Teluklecan Mawai
ac Layang-
NO
Batu Layang
ca Pahat
RT
H-
I N D O N E S I A SO Kota Tinggi
the country in relation to

UT Kulai
Dumai HH
WY
0 km 300 Pulau Bengkalis
Sumatra Pontian Kecil Johor
0 miles 300 Bahru
INDONESIA
Duri
Pulau Kukup
Kukup
SINGAPORE
Singapore
other countries.
For keys to symbols see back flap
Malaysia Region
by Region M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 93
Each region has a map at

the start of the section. The
1 Introduction
The landscape, history,
and character of each
NORTHWEST PENINSULA
The northwestern states of Malaysia are among the most
geographically diverse and historically significant in the country.
The landscape encompasses everything from coastal plains and
key to the symbols is on the region are described

lushly forested mountains to jutting limestone cliffs and pristine
islands. A long legacy of immigrants and rulers, attracted by the
region’s strategic geographical position and its natural wealth,
back flap. here, including an

has bequeathed a fascinating mix of cultures.
Archaeological remains found at the influx of Chinese immigrants. As a result

coastal site of Lembah Bujang provide of these varied early influences and
account of how they evidence of a Hindu-Buddhist kingdom
that dates back to the 4th century AD.
economic developments, the Northwest
Peninsula is more cosmopolitan and less
have changed over the In the 7th and 8th centuries, the region
was ruled by the Srivijaya empire and
later by Siam (now Thailand), while the
culturally conservative than other parts
of Malaysia. It is also one of the most
developed and populous regions in the
centuries and what 15th century saw the rise of the Sultanate
of Malacca. With the beginning of the
17th century, a power struggle ensued
country, comprising not only ethnic
Malays, Chinese, and Indians, but also
indigenous groups such as the Orang
they have to offer to between colonial powers in the area

until the British finally gained control.
By the mid-19th century, the growing
Asli and the Orang Syam in the interior
jungles and far north. The old royal capital
of Kuala Kangsar and the vibrant, historic,
the visitor today. importance of tin mining in the states

of Perak and Selangor brought with it
far-reaching economic, political, and
and culturally diverse city of Georgetown
in Penang are on the itinerary of most
visitors to the Northwest Peninsula. More
social repercussions. It fueled Malaysia’s laid-back tourists head for the region’s
Sights at a Glance lists the 124 M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N tremendous economic rise in the SOUTHERN
20th century and also attracted a huge
pristine
P E N I Nbeaches
S U L A or the
1 2 soothing
5 environs
of its tea plantations and cool hill stations.
chapter’s sights by category, such Exploring the Southern Peninsula Key
as Towns and Cities, Areas of Bounded on the west by one of the world’s busiest shipping
lanes, the Strait of Malacca, on the east by the open South China
Highway
Major road
Sea, and on the south by the island city-state of Singapore, the Minor road
Natural Beauty, Islands and Southern Peninsula offers everything from bustling cities to
great tracts of jungle, lazy seaside resorts, and deserted islands.
Railroad
Beaches, and Parks and Preserves. The top draw is historic Melaka, home to some of Malaysia’s best
museums, most varied cuisine, and earliest European buildings.
The beautiful old palace, Istana Lama, in Sri Menanti is a prime
State border
Peak
example of Minangkabau craftsmanship, while Seremban, the

capital of Negeri Sembilan, makes the ideal base Inside the royal throne room at
for exploring the state. Johor’s main Bentong Istana Lama, Sri Menanti
attractions are its beach resorts and the
beautiful islands of the Seribuat
0 kilometers 40
Archipelago off the east coast.
Mancis Temerloh 0 miles 40
Swaying palms and pure white sand on Desaru Beach

Kuala Lumpur Paradong Simpang
Sights at a Glance Pertang The palm-fringed white sands of Pantai Cenang Beach, Langkawi
1 Seremban Kuala Ayer Hitam
Kelawang The ornate tiered pagoda of the Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang
2 Sri Menanti
Mantin
3 Kuala Pilah Pantai Bahau Kuantan Tekek
4 Melaka pp128–33 Kuantan Juara
SRI KUALA PILAH
5 Muar MENANTI
SEREMBAN
6 Kukup Padang Endau PULAU TIOMAN
NEGERI Pulau
2 Regional Map 7 Johor Bahru Pianggu Seribuat

Gemas Buloh Pulau
8 Desaru Beach Cuah SEMBILAN Kasap SERIBUAT Pemangil
Endau
9 Mersing Kayu Papan ARCHIPELAGO

Port Dickson Pekan Jabi Gunung Tiong
a
Pengkalan Tampin 3,327 ft Pulau
This map shows the

Se
Islands Kempas Segamat Besar

a
0 Seribuat Archipelago Tanjung Tuan Alor Gajah

MERSING in
Labis
Ch
Mersing
q Pulau Tioman pp136–7 Seri Pantai

th
Masjid MELAKA Jasin JOHOR Sou
road network and gives
Pulau
ng
Tanah NORT Tangkak Lenga ro Jemaluang Tinggi

H-SO
UTH be
HIGH r S em
WAY ua Paloh Kahang Pulau
k
M Sibu
Leni
MELAKA Tanjung
an overview of the topo-

Pagoh Leman
Pulau Besar Sungai

Rambai Gunung Belumut
St MUAR Keluang 3,314 ft
ra Parit Jawa
graphy of the entire region. it

of
M Semarah
Batu Pahat
Air Hitam
Renggan
Sedili Besar
al Simpang Layang-Layang Mawai
All the sights are numbered Lombong Sedili Kecil

ac Ranggarn
ca Senggarang NO Johor Laut
RT Kota Tinggi
H- Kelapa
SO
UT Sawit
H
Rengit HIG Kulai
and there are also useful tips

Benut
Getting Around HW
AY Teluk
Senai Sengat
A train line runs between Kuala Lumpur and DESARU
Johor Bahru, and then on to Singapore. Seremban Lintang BEACH
Pontian Kecil JOHOR
lies at the end of the KTM line from the capital.
on getting around by plane, However, the quickest and easiest way of getting
around the region is by car or bus and there are
regular services between all the main urban
Pekan Panerok
Pulau
Gelang
Patah
BAHRU Belungkor
Pengerang
KUKUP
train, boat, and car. The colorful façade of Christ Church, Melaka
centers. Smaller towns, such as Kukup, are best
reached by taxi while Pulau Tioman can be
reached by ferry from Mersing.
Kukup
For hotels and restaurants see pp279–80 and pp294–5 For keys to symbols see back flap
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
214 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA T H E C O LO N I A L C O R E A N D C H I N ATO W N 215
The Padang
Street-by-Street: Around This field has hosted cricket LIT TLE INDIA AND
ORCHARD ROAD
the Padang since the 1830s. Today, sporting
3 Street-by-Street Map
events such as the Rugby
The heart of Singapore’s colonial district is the Padang, Sevens are held here.
or square, which was once used by the 19th-century
THE COLONIAL
colonials as a site for big sporting events as well as CORE AND
This gives a bird’s-eye National Day parades. Sporting activities from cricket
and field hockey to soccer and rugby still take place here
on a weekly basis. The square is flanked by grand Neo- To St. Andrew’s Cathedral & Locator Map
CHINATOWN
view of interesting and

See Street Finder map 5
Classical buildings such as the former Supreme Court Raffles City
6. National
and City Hall (now revamped as the National Gallery Gallery Singapore
D
Singapore), the Parliament House, and the exclusive
A
The gallery occupies
O
important parts of each imposing former
R
Singapore Cricket Club. Also of interest here is Esplanade
’S
Park, which lies on the eastern side of the Padang. One civic buildings.
EW
of the oldest parks in Singapore, it is home to many
R
Key
D
sightseeing area in Kuala historical landmarks.
N
A
Suggested route
.
ST
0 meters 100
Lumpur and Singapore. The 0 yards 100
E
IV
R
numbering of the sights
D
T
H
PA
G
R
U
LI Esplanade Park
A
A
M
ties in with the area map
N
E
N
N
O
T
C
P
LA
C
E
4. Victoria Theater and Concert Hall
and the fuller description
E
N
K
Built in 1862, the Victoria Theater was originally the Town Hall.
L
L
A
The Victoria Memorial Hall was added in 1905 to commemorate
W
T
the death of Queen Victoria. Its name was later changed to
H
E
of the entries on the pages
T
the Victoria Concert Hall
E
B
IA
Lim Bo Seng Memorial
A
L
IZ
This structure is a tribute
L
A
Asian Civilisations to Chinese war hero
E
P
that follow. Museum Lim Bo Seng who worked
N
D
E
L
with British covert forces
E
O
Raffles’ Landing
U
until he was caught and
Q
Site tortured to death by
Japanese forces in 1944.
To the Boat
Quay
Stars indicate the sights that no

5 Old Parliament House
visitor should miss.
F
U
Constructed in 1827, this
L
L
building was originally
E
R
commissioned as a
T
O
private residence for a
N
Scottish merchant,
R
O
John Argyle Maxwell.
A
D
To Merlion
Park
The Time Capsule Singapore Cricket Club
Located in front of Empress Place, a small Memorial Obelisk Built around 1884, the club is a distinctive,
pyramid houses a time capsule prepared squat building with dark green bamboo
in 1990 to mark the 25th anniversary of shutters. This members-only club was
Singapore’s independence. To Raffles Place Cavenagh Bridge originally intended exclusively for expatriates.
For hotels and restaurants see pp282–3 and pp299–300
Numbers refer to each

sight’s position on the
area map and its place in A suggested route takes in some
the chapter. of the fascinating and attractive
streets in the area.
164
2 Sungai
Santubong
M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
12 miles (20 km) N of Kuching.

@ tour bus to Santubong jetty.
g tour boats between 4 and 5pm.
5 Sarawak Cultural
Village
21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. Tel
(082) 846-411. @ tour bus and Petra
Rainforest World Music Festival
SARAWAK
In August each year, Sarawak Cultural Village hosts this festival, which
celebrates music from around the world. This 3-day event, which has
been held every year since 1998, previously featured musicians from as
165
4 Detailed Information
All the major cities, towns, and
tourist attractions are described
Jaya bus 2B, 15. Open 9am– 5:15pm far away as Mali, Mongolia, and Madagascar. The festival now also
8 from Kuching. provides a rare opportunity to hear
After meandering through the

plains around Kuching, Sungai
daily; cultural shows at 11:30am and
4pm daily. & 0 = _ Harvest
Festival (May), Rainforest World Music
Festival (Jul). ∑ scv.com.my
indigenous musicians from various
regions of Malaysia. Seminars and
workshops are held during the day,
individually. They are listed in an
spontaneous jam sessions take place
Santubong flows through
Sarawak into the South China
Sea. During the dry season,
between March and October,
Located at the foot of Gunung
Santubong, Sarawak Cultural
Village serves as an excellent
in the longhouses, and artistes
perform on outdoor stages in the
evenings. The exotic setting around a
order that follows the numbering
lake against the backdrop of Gunung
groups of the rare Irrawaddy
dolphin are sometimes seen
feeding and playing around the
Lagoon-style pool at the Holiday Inn Resort at Damai Beach
introduction to the cultural
traditions of Sarawak. Erected
by the Sarawak Development
Santubong makes for an electric
atmosphere. Accommodation is
available at the resorts on Damai
on the area map at the start
mouth of the river. These small, 3 Santubong reclining human figure is still Corporation in the early 1990s Beach, and frequent buses run from
snub-nosed dolphins are often
difficult to spot as they do not
leap out of the water like their
* 800. @ Petra Jaya bus 2B.
well defined, but many other
carvings have eroded.
to give visitors a taste of indig-
enous lifestyles, the village
comprises seven houses
Kuching for those who prefer to stay
in town. It is advisable to check the
official website (www.rwmf.net) for Jerry Kamit, a sape (lute-like
of the section.
seafaring cousins. Nevertheless, This fishing village sits near clustered around a lake, each information on events. instrument) virtuoso
the experience of watching Sungai Santubong in the 4 Damai Beach a good example of the trad-
these unusual creatures is a shadow of the 2,657-ft (810-m) itional dwellings built by the
major draw on the popular Gunung Santubong. During the @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. 0 ® 
main indigenous groups. in elaborate costumes is held Gunung Selang and Gunung
boat trips. Tang and Sung dynasties, which Iban, Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu daily at the village’s indoor the- Sendok – form the backdrop to
Some cruises continue down lasted from the 9th century to On the west coast of the longhouses sit side by side ater. There is a well-regarded this wildlife haven. Among the
the adjoining Sungai Salak to the 13th century, Santubong Santubong Peninsula, Damai with a Melanau tall-house, a restaurant at the village, too. dipterocarp (hardwood) forests
Kuching Wetlands National
Park. Covering a vast expanse of
saline mangrove swamps and
was an important trading
center. Today, it is merely a small
village but it is worth visiting for
is one of Sarawak’s prettiest
beaches. Only a short journey
from Kuching, and featuring
Penan hut, a Chinese farm-
house and a Malay house.
Women and men of respective
and gentle waterfalls and
streams are more than 90
species of palms and a wide
Story boxes provide information
6 Kubah National
patches of scrubland, the
wetlands also include a network
of small water channels and
the colorful wooden houses
built on stilts and fishing boats
on the beach, which are very
some beautifully designed
resorts, the beach is a popular
tourist destination and can get
groups live in these dwellings
and also demonstrate art
and craft skills, such as wood-
Park and Matang
Wildlife Center
variety of orchids. Although
there are bearded pigs, mouse
deer, and other wildlife, these
about historical or cultural topics
tidal creeks. The swamps are
inhabited by a variety of wildlife,
including crocodiles, proboscis
photogenic. The morning is the
liveliest time in Santubong
when the fishermen sell their
quite crowded on weekends.
There is a wide selection of
watersports on offer, including
carving, textile and basket-
weaving, sword-making,
and beadwork. Outside the
12 miles (20 km) W of Kuching.
Tel (082) 248-088. @ from Kuching.
Open 8am–5:15pm daily. & ® 
are rarely seen. Visitors are more
likely to spot birds such as the
maroon woodpecker or the
relating to the sights.
monkeys, lorises, and color ful daily catch at the quay. The sailing, snorkeling, and wind- Melanau tall-house is a ∑ sarawakforestry.com rufus-collared kingfisher.
birds. In the evenings, large cafés nearby are well known surfing, as well as other demonstration of a traditional Several trails crisscross the
groups of fireflies illuminate the for their excellent seafood. activities such as mountain sago press, while the process of Encompassing 9 sq miles (22 sq park and the mountains includ-
riverside trees. River cruises are From the main road into biking and golf. Cafés and blowpipe-making can be seen km), Kubah National Park is one ing the beautiful Waterfall Trail
the only way to explore the Santubong is a small, easy-to- restaurants here have gained at the Penan hut. Visitors can of the smallest and most that leads through split-level
wetlands, and a number of tour miss turning which leads to a reputation for their superb take part in 3- to 4-day courses accessible parks in Sarawak. A falls and a 2- to 3-hour hike to
operators in Kuching offer trips. Sungai Jaong, one of the most fresh seafood dishes. to learn a particular skill or sandstone plateau and three the mist-shrouded peak of
important archaeological sites Picturesque trails around craft. A cultural show featuring peaks – the 2,990-ft (911-m) Gunung Serapi. Matang Wildlife
O Kuching Wetlands National in Sarawak. Among its artifacts Gunung Santubong begin here traditional music and dancers Gunung Serapi and the smaller Center is nearby, but gains
Park are ancient Buddhist and Hindu and trekking is a popular mixed reviews for its care of
9 miles (15 km) N of Kuching. rock carvings, thought to be activity for visitors to Damai endangered species such as
g&8 about 1,000 years old. A Beach. The Santubong Jungle orangutans, sambar deer,
Trek, with blue trail markers, is hornbills, and proboscis
an easy, circular 1-mile (1.6-km) monkeys. Along the Pitcher Trail
walk that starts at the Damai are several varieties of the
Beach Resort. A more carnivorous pitcher plant.
challenging route that also Accommodation for the parks
begins here is the Gunung
Santubong Summit Trek,
winding up to the top. The
may be booked in advance at
the Visitor Information Center in
Kuching (see p161) or online at
The visitors’ checklist gives all the
trail, with red markers, takes 5
to 7 hours to complete. It also
requires a good level of fitness,
www.ebooking.gov.my.
O Matang Wildlife Center

practical information needed to
sturdy hiking shoes, and 8 miles (13 km) N of Kubah. Tel (082)
Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong

plenty of drinking water. The
resorts at Damai can arrange
for guides. A Bidayuh woman weaving rattan baskets at the Sarawak Cultural Village
225-012. @ to Kubah or Matang
Polytechnic, then local minibus. &
-®
plan your visit.
Practical information provides

everything you need to know to visit 236 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 237
each sight. For Kuala Lumpur and 6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Temple
Singapore, there are map references One of the most important religious buildings in Singapore,
this Hindu temple is devoted to the worship of Lord Vishnu
Practical Information
397 Serangoon Road. Map 3 E2.
Tel 6298-5771. Open 6:30am–
noon & 6–9pm daily. 7 8 on
that pinpoint each sight’s location (also known as Perumal). It is also one of the oldest temples in
Singapore. Built in 1854, the temple was originally a simple
request.
Transport
structure with a mandapam, or a prayer hall, and the area q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, 65, 111,
on Street Finder maps. around the temple had many ponds and vegetable gardens.
In 1966, when the temple was consecrated, a six-tiered Main Shrine
130, 131, 139, 147, 857.
gopuram, or entrance tower, was built, funded by one of the Here, devotees make offerings of
ghee, flowers, and fruit, to the
earliest Indian migrants, P. Govindasamy Pillai. The temple is . Mandapam accompaniment of music and
the starting point of the annual Thaipusam festival parade. The main mandapam or prayer chanting. They also sprinkle their
hall has a decorated ceiling that is heads with holy water.
supported by ornately carved
columns. Vishnu
This sculpture of Vishnu
shows him with four sacred
instruments – the conch
shell, club, lotus, and saber.
. Gopuram
Color tabs refer to the The 60-ft- (20-m-)

high entrance
tower has six tiers
of sculptures.
regions. The same tab is
used for pages relating . Subsidiary Shrines
Several subsidiary shrines are
dedicated to different deities. This
to a particular region. shrine is in honor of Ganesh, the

elephant-headed god who
removes obstacles.
KEY
1 The inner sanctum is where the

main idol lies. Only priests can enter.
2 The office provides information Vimanams
5
Decorated vimanams, or domes, mark the position of the
Major Sights on temple activities.

temple’s subsidiary shrines.
Historic buildings are dissected to Thaipusam Festival

This Hindu festival begins at dawn at the temple. Male devotees
enter a trance-like state, carrying ornately decorated kavadis, or steel
reveal their interiors. arches, attached by metal hooks to their torsos, with skewers pierced
through their tongues and cheeks. Devotees take part in this act in
penance for their sins and in honor of Lord Murugan, the god of Main Entrance
Hanuman
bravery, power, beauty, and virtue. Women carry coconut milk pots, Statuary stands guard on either
This shrine is dedicated to Hanuman,
also fulfilling vows relating to penance. Accompanied by chanting side of the massive wooden
the monkey god. In the Hindu epic, the
and singing, they walk to Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road, Devotee carrying an ornately door. Devotees ring the bells
Ramayana, he helps rescue Sita from
about 2 miles (3 km) away. decorated kavadi before entering, asking the
the demon, Ravana.
gods to grant their prayers.
For hotels and restaurants see p283 and pp300–301
INTRODUCING
MALAYSIA &
SINGAPORE
Discovering Malaysia
and Singapore 10–17
Putting Malaysia and
Singapore on the Map 18–21
A Portrait of Malaysia
The History of Malaysia
10 I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E
DISCOVERING MALAYSIA
AND SINGAPORE
The tours on the following pages each offer trips that include pre-arranged stays in
a mixture of historical sights and modern longhouses or visits to jungle reserves are
attractions as well as, in most cases, places a very worthwhile option. Four itineraries
of natural beauty such as national parks and focus on Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore,
islands. Though the tours are designed with and three on Borneo; the longest tours last
geographical proximity in mind, Malaysia’s roughly a week. Domestic flights make it
wildlife areas are necessarily rural or remote, feasible to combine many itineraries, and
so may require a half-day road journey (or a Brunei is a possible overland extension to
short flight) to reach. For Borneo, package the Northern Sarawak tour.
PERLIS
Langkawi
Kota Bharu
THAILAND
The Perhentian
KEDAH Islands
Kuala Besut
Georgetown Kuala
Tasik
Terengganu
Penang
Malay Culture and KELANTAN Kenyir
Beaches PERAK TERENGGANU
•
Explore Malay markets and Taman Negara
Je National Park
craft workshops in Kuala lai ek
T
ai
Terengganu, and see
traditional wooden boats M A L AY S I A
being built and decorated. South China
PAHANG
Sea
•
Head to the superb white-
SELANGOR P ahang
sand beaches and coral
reefs of the Perhentian Kuala Lumpur
Islands, renowned for great
NEGERI
diving and snorkeling. SEMBILAN
•
Get a feel for traditional
Malay pastimes, including MALACCA
Melaka
traditional kite-making JOHOR
Str
and shadow puppetry, in ait
of
Ma
busy Kota Bharu. lac
ca
Singapore
Penang and Langkawi
•
Explore Penang’s historic a delightful butterfly
city of Georgetown, farm at the fishing
packed with old temples, village of Teluk Bahang.
fine museums, and •
Enjoy some quality 0 kilometres 200
architectural reminders beach time or enjoy
of the colonial past. watersports on the 0 miles 100
•
Marvel at the huge resort island of Langkawi.
Buddhist temple and Take its cable-car ride Key
pagoda complex of for spectacular views. Malay Culture and Beaches
Kek Lok Si. •
Take advantage of Lang- Penang and Langkawi
•
Shop for crafts, enjoy kawi’s duty-free status
fresh seafood, and visit with some shopping.
Detail from Nikhrodharam Thai Temple at Alor Star, Northwest Peninsula, Malaysia
D I S C O V E R I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 11
A Week in Sabah
•
Immerse yourself in the looking out for pitcher
friendly bustle of Kota plants and slipper
Kinabalu, with its lively orchids, then soak those
seafront markets. tired muscles at Poring
•
Book a river trip in the Hot Springs.
Klias Wetlands to spot shy •
Check out Sandakan’s
proboscis monkeys Chinese temples and
and twinkling fireflies. busy waterfront.
•
Try white-water rafting •
Support animal rescue
on the Padas River, or work at the sanctuaries
visit the Mari Mari for orangutans and sun
Cultural Village to bears at Sepilok, and
learn about life among spend a night in a
Sabah’s tribes. jungle lodge.
Gunung Kinabalu, the mighty mountain that lies at the
•
Walk forest trails in the •
See nimble locals heart of the Kinabalu National Park
shadow of Malaysia’s climb poles to harvest
highest peak in the raw ingredient for
Kinabalu National Park, birds’-nest soup.
Kinabalu National Park
Kota Kinabalu Sepilok Sandakan

Key
Kinabatangan a
Klias Wetlands m
A Week in Sabah Wildlife Sanctuary
ga
Se
Kuching and its Surroundings SABAH Ka
lab
The National Parks of BRUNEI ak
an
Northern Sarawak Miri
Niah Caves Mulu National Park

National Park
South China M A L AY S I A
Sea
SARAWAK
A Week in Kuching
Sarawak Bako B al and Its Surroundings
eh
Cultural Village National
Park •
Get acquainted with
Kuching
Semenggoh
Borneo’s tribal culture at
Wildlife Centre INDONESIA the museums of Kuching
and the Sarawak Cultural
Village outside the city.
0 kilometers 200
•
Fortify yourself with local
0 miles 200
rice wine before being
shown a House of Skulls
from the head-hunting era.
The National Parks of Northern Sarawak •
Visit a wildlife rescue center
to see orangutans being
fed, and take a boat trip to
•
See one of nature’s most •
Refresh yourself with a spot rare river dolphins.
awesome spectacles, as spot of river-bathing •
Spend a couple of days at
millions of bats emerge after a jungle trek.
the superb Bako National
at dusk from the caves •
Admire the handicrafts Park, with its cute family of
of Mulu National Park. and exotic jungle proboscis monkeys and
•
See ancient rock art, produce brought to lovely beaches.
boat-shaped “death ship” Miri’s markets by •
Be a guest at an Iban
coffins, and spectacular indigenous people.
longhouse, with an
natural rock formations •
Extend your stay with a overnight stay to allow you
as you go underground two-day side trip to to learn more about your
to explore the caves. fascinating Brunei. hosts’ traditional way of life.
Kuala Lumpur, Taman Day 4: Taman Negara

Negara, and Melaka Park staff can offer advice to
help you choose from many
•
Duration Five days, with outdoor activities: a jungle trek
two nights spent at Taman on one of the shorter trails,
Negara National Park. climbing, caving, a boat trip, or
•
Airports Fly into and out of a guided wildlife-spotting tour,
Kuala Lumpur (KL). perhaps to see elephants or
some spectacular birdlife.
•
Getting around Taman
Negara can be accessed by
Day 5: Back to Kuala Lumpur
car, or by public bus via
On your return, immerse
Jerantut, but the trip
yourself in city life again with an
offered by many KL tour
evening taking in the sights,
operators by coach to Kuala
sounds, and smells of famous
Tembeling, then river boat
food street Jalan Alor (see p76),
to Kuala Tahan, is highly
or at the glitzy Suria KLCC mall
recommended. In monsoon
(see p79) at the Petronas Towers.
season (Nov–Mar), it is worth
Massive statue of the Hindu god Lord
checking conditions at
Muragan at the entrance to the Batu Caves To extend your trip…
Taman Negara before travel.
Wildlife-lovers will find a
Day 2: Kuala Lumpur and longer stay at Taman
Batu Caves Negara rewarding. Or, if not
Day 1: Kuala Lumpur Book ahead to enjoy the view intending to see Penang,
Explore around Merdeka from the skybridge between spend two days in Melaka
Square (see pp66–7), the old Kuala Lumpur’s iconic Petronas (see pp128–33), with a similar
heart of Kuala Lumpur, with its Towers (see p78) then see the mix of old temples, colonial
colonial and Moorish-style nearby Aquaria KLCC (see p79). buildings, and shophouses.
architecture and the Masjid Make an afternoon excursion to
Jamek (Jamek Mosque) (see the Batu Caves (see p96) on the
p68). For lunch, head for city’s outskirts. Return for an Three Days in
bustling Chinatown (see p70), evening stroll around Little Singapore
walking via the Central Market India (see p76).
(see p69), now devoted to craft •
Arriving The MRT metro
shops. In the afternoon, head Day 3: Taman Negara system will whisk you
over to the National Museum Make the journey to Malaysia’s from Changi Airport to
(see p72) and the adjacent largest national park, Taman downtown in 30 minutes.
Perdana Botanical Gardens Negara (see pp144–5). Arriving •
Moving on Changi Airport
(see p72) and explore the at Kuala Tahan in the afternoon, has excellent connections
delightful Butterfly Park. Try to the energetic can make for with many Malaysian cities,
get to the Menara KL tower (see the canopy walkway for an and is also served by express
p80) by late afternoon for fine overview of the stunning buses (to Kuala Lumpur by
sunset views over the city from surroundings. Or, relax and bus takes at least 5 hours).
the top, then pick a restaurant sign up for a guided night trek Malaysian trains out of
for dinner in the surrounding to see the nocturnal creatures Singapore are slow and not
Golden Triangle (see p80). of the rain forest. recommended, except for
the sleeper services.
•
Book ahead for the Univ-
ersal Studios theme park.
Day 1
Morning Explore Singapore’s
historic old quarters, beginning
with the Colonial Core along
the Singapore River, around the
Padang (see pp214–15) and Fort
Canning Park (see p223). Take
your pick of the museums, such
as the Peranakan Museum (see
p222), Asian Civilisations
Museum (see p216), and grand
Traditional gateway to Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur National Gallery (see p217).
For practical information on getting around, see pp330–39
(see p107) and take in other

places of worship such as
Kapitan Keling Mosque (see
p108). Take the tour of the
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion (see
p111) then perhaps have a look
around the grand old E & O
Hotel (see p111). Visit the giant
Kek Lok Si Temple complex
(see p113) in the afternoon, and
spend the evening atop nearby
Penang Hill (see p113) to see
Georgetown light up at night.
Day 3: Georgetown and

Around
Relaxing on Pantai Cenang, one of Langkawi’s white-sand beaches Head to the Penang National
Park (see p115) for a few hours
Afternoon Head to the most of jungle trekking, or spend the
atmospheric of the old districts,
Penang and Langkawi morning at the temples of Wat
Little India, to look around the Chayamangkalaram (see p118)
exuberant Sri Veerama- •
Duration Six days, in Pulau Tikus. Then head to
kaliamman Temple (see p235). extendable by spending Teluk Bahang (see p114) for the
Nearby is Kampong Glam (see more time on Langkawi. Penang Butterfly Farm and
pp232–3), the heart of Muslim •
Airports Fly into Penang Forest Recreation Park. Relax
life in the city and home to the and out from Langkawi. on the beach at Batu Ferringhi
Masjid Sultan mosque (see (see p114) in the late afternoon.
•
Getting around Ferries sail
p234). Spend the evening at the
between Georgetown and
Gardens by the Bay (see p217). Day 4: Langkawi
Langkawi; flights are faster.
Catch a morning ferry or flight
Day 2 •
Book ahead Ferry tickets are to Pulau Langkawi (see pp118–
Morning Visit the Singapore best bought a day in advance. 9). Spend the rest of the day
Botanic Gardens (see pp246–7), on Cenang beach, perhaps
including the spectacular indulging in water sports like
National Orchid Garden. Day 1: Georgetown paragliding. Stay on Langkawi.
Explore the colonial center of
Afternoon Explore Chinatown, Georgetown (see pp106–11), Day 5: Langkawi
being sure to see the Buddha including St George’s Church Head up the Langkawi Cable
Tooth Relic Temple (see p225) and Fort Cornwallis. Visit 100 Car (see p121) to Gunung
and Thian Hock Keng Temple Cintra Street in Chinatown (see Machinchang for amazing views
(see p228–9). In the evening, p110) with its Peranakan museum over a forested valley. Drop by
head to Singapore Zoo for its and curio stalls, then explore Pantai Cenang’s Underwater
Night Safari (see p244). the mini-water village of the World aquarium (see p121). In
Weld Quay Clan Piers (see p106). the afternoon, take an island-
Day 3 Dine in Little India (see p108). hopping trip to Pulau Dayang
Thrill-seekers can easily spend Bunting (see p121).
the whole day on Sentosa (see Day 2: Georgetown and
pp250–51), Singapore’s theme Around Day 6: Depart Langkawi
park/resort island, where Explore the best of Penang’s Grab another morning on the
Universal Studios holds pride clan temples, the Khoo Kongsi beach before flying out.
of place. Or, spend the morning
at the gentler Jurong Bird Park
(see p245). From the Bird Park, it’s
a short train journey to the
Chinese folklore theme park of
Haw Par Villa (see p248). Then
take a trip to Sentosa in the
late afternoon to visit Under-
water World and Fort Siloso
(see p250). Have a sundowner at
the beach, then head back
downtown to spend the evening
browsing the high-end shops of
Orchard Road (see pp238–41). The graceful Kapitan Keling mosque in Georgetown
Malay Culture and

Beaches
•
Duration Five days. Keen
wildlife spotters should
spend an extra night at
Taman Negara. Alternatively,
extend the itinerary to a
week by adding on Melaka.
Note that the east coast is a
seasonal destination: avoid
the stormy northeast
monsoon (Nov–Mar).
•
Airports Fly into Kuala Beautiful 19th-century architecture of the Istana Jahar in Kota Bharu
Terengganu and out from
Kota Bharu. a series of monumental Malay conservative but likeable
houses. In the afternoon, visit city with a strong Malay flavor.
•
Getting around Hotels and
the few surviving traditional In the center, drop by the
tour operators in Kota Bharu
boatyards at Pulau Duyung (see enjoyable Pasar Besar, a market
and Kuala Terengganu can
p149), also just outside the packed with colorful fruits
arrange transfers to and
town, where Malay craftsmen and vegetable stalls, and the
from Kuala Besut, where
still produce wooden fishing beautiful Istana Jahar (see
Perhentian Islands boats
boats and sailboats. p152), built as a palace in
depart. Water taxis run
traditional wooden style but
around and between the
Days 2 & 3: The Perhentian now a museum of royal
islands. A taxi is useful for
Islands traditions and customs. Also
visiting Kota Bharu’s
Leave in the morning for the visit the Gelanggang Seni
scattered craft workshops.
tiny seaside town of Kuala (Cultural Center) (see p153) to
•
Book ahead Book accomm- Besut to catch a boat to the learn about old-fashioned Malay
odation on the Perhentian Perhentian Islands (see p148), pastimes; ask about shadow
Islands at least ten days in the most down-to-earth and puppetry shows in the evening.
advance if intending to stay likeable of Malaysia’s resort
during a local holiday or islands. They have a wide range Day 5: Kota Bharu
school break. of accommodation, although See the city’s craft cottage
Perhentian Besar is the better of industries – tourist offices can
the two islands for more mature provide details of which ones
Day 1: Kuala Terengganu travelers or those with families. are currently best to visit –
In the center of sleepy Kuala Take your pick of dive packages including silversmiths
Terengganu (see p147), see the or hire a snorkel and fins for a producing filigree jewelry, and
Pasar Payang produce market couple of hours. It’s worth traditional kite-makers. Either
and the small temples and hopping between islands to depart in the afternoon or visit
boutiques of Chinatown. Head eat at different restaurants. more museums, such as the
just outside town to one of Istana Batu (see p152), a former
Malaysia’s most architecturally Day 4: Kota Bharu palace now used as a museum
striking museums, the Return to the mainland in the of royal paraphernalia, and the
Terengganu State Museum morning and head north to small World War II Memorial
Complex, designed to look like Kota Bharu (see pp152–3), a Museum (see p153).
Landing jetty at Coral Bay beach on the Perhentian Islands

A Week in Kuching Day 2: Semenggoh,

and Its Surroundings Anna Rais, and the
Santubong River
•
Duration Seven days. Watch orangutans being fed at
•
Airports Fly in and out of the Semenggoh Wildlife
Kuching. Centre (see p167) south of
Kuching in the morning. From
•
Getting around Many of
here buses run to the Anna
the highlights are rural and it
Rais longhouse community of
is best to book a package
Bidayuh people (see p167),
trip; spare time in Kuching
where you are likely to be
can be spent consulting tour
invited to sample rice wine and
operators. Some sights are
see a house of skulls dating
straightforward by public
from the head-hunting era.
transport, including Bako
Returning to Kuching, take a
National Park, reached by
Santubong river cruise (see
bus and then boat. Shuttle
p315) in the late afternoon to
buses leave from central
look for rare dolphins. Iban women weaving in the Nanga Sumpa
Kuching for the Sarawak
longhouse in Sarawak
Cultural Village.
Day 3: Bako National Park
•
Book ahead Recommended Head to the superb Bako longhouse (see p173) east of
for Iban longhouse stays and National Park (see pp168–9), Kuching. With a stay of two
accommodation at Bako with its endearing proboscis nights you will get to know the
National Park (through monkeys. There are trails that inhabitants, who may have
Sarawak Forestry in Kuching). can take up the rest of the day, traditional crafts for sale. The
some leading to fine beaches, package will usually include
while others go up and across jungle treks and river boat
a plateau covered in unusual trips, perhaps to waterfalls or
scrub forest. At night you can other swimming spots.
sign up for a guided trek
through the jungle, looking for Day 7: Kuching
snakes and other creatures. Return to the city; if there’s time
before your departure, visit the
Day 4: Bako and Kuching Tua Pek Kong temple (see p162)
Spend the morning at Bako. or the kitsch Cat Museum on
Returning to Kuching, go down the northern outskirts (see p163).
to the lively Waterfront (see
p162) to browse shops and stalls To extend your trip…
and perhaps visit the Chinese Fly from Kuching to spend
History Museum. Linger extra days in the Mulu
outdoors and you may catch National Park, following the
one of the city’s scenic sunsets. suggestions at the start of
Traditional Orang Ulu longhouses, some of the Northern Sarawak
which offer accommodations Days 5 & 6: Iban Longhouses itinerary (see p16).
Book a package trip to an Iban
Day 1: Kuching and Sarawak
Cultural Village
Wander through the delightful
riverfront area of central
Kuching (see pp160–63), lined
with colonial-era monuments,
before getting acquainted
with Borneo tribal culture at
the Sarawak Museum (see
p160) and Textile Museum
(see p160). Make an afternoon
excursion to explore beautiful
examples of authentically
styled tribal longhouses
and observe the skilful
craftsmanship of indigenous
communities at the Sarawak
Cultural Village (see p165), a
folk museum outside the city. Boardwalk through the swampy mangrove forest in Bako National Park
jungle produce is on sale, then

catch a taxi up to the hill behind
the town to visit the Petroleum
Museum (see p177), telling the
story of Miri’s oil boom.
Day 4: Niah Caves National

Park
Make an early start, ideally
leaving Miri by 8:30am for a
day trip to the Niah Caves
National Park (see p174), nearly
two hours’ drive away, with
jungle trails and caves of
archaeological significance.
These are also the source of
edible swiftlet nests and bat
guano for fertilizer, both of
which you may see workers
harvesting. Bring torches for
Longboats moored in a creek near Clearwater Cave, Mulu National Park the caves, notably the dark
passages of the aptly named
The National Parks of Day 2: Mulu National Park Great Cave. The farthest cave
Northern Sarawak In the morning, take a boat is the Painted Cave, named for
ride to view more of the caves: its wall paintings.
•
Duration Four days, with the Wind Cave is packed with
the option to extend to a stalactites and stalagmites, To extend your trip…
week by visiting Brunei. while Clearwater Cave (see Spend three days in Brunei
•
Airports Fly into Mulu p176), thought to be the (see pp178–9), a 4-hour
National Park and out from longest in Southeast Asia, bus ride from Miri. The
Miri. If including the Brunei impresses with its vastness highlights of the capital,
extension, fly out from and subterranean river. Bring Bandar Seri Begawan, are
Bandar Seri Begawan. bathing gear for a river swim the opulent Omar Ali
outside the caves once the tour Saifuddien Mosque and
•
Getting around This
is over. There are trails, the lofty the sprawling Kampung
itinerary can largely be
Canopy Skywalk (see p177), Ayer, a village built on stilts
followed independently
and one or two other caves to over the Brunei River. After a
using flights and taxis. For
occupy the rest of the day. night in the capital, book an
Niah Caves National Park,
arrange a taxi through your overnight excursion to the
Day 3: Miri Ulu Temburong National
hotel to take you there in
Fly to Miri (see p174) in the Park, with several trails and
the morning and collect you
morning. Spend the afternoon an impressive canopy
at an arranged time.
wandering around its compact walkway at treetop height
•
Book ahead Flights to and center, visiting Tamu Muhibbah, for wildlife spotting.
from Mulu National Park. For one of the markets where exotic
Brunei, book a two-day
package at the Ulu Tembu-
rong National Park on arrival
in Bandar Seri Begawan.
Day 1: Mulu National Park

Fly into Mulu National Park
(see pp176–7) in the morning.
Once you’ve checked into
your accommodations, register
at the park headquarters to
book guided trips around the
extraordinary show caves.
Don’t miss the spectacular Deer
Cave (see p176), with stunning
rock formations and – at dusk –
vast flocks of bats emerging
from the cave mouth. Mist-shrouded forest seen from the entrance to the Great Cave, Niah National Park
A Week in Sabah
•
Airports Arrive at Kota Kina-
balu; depart from Sandakan.
•
Getting around Sabah has
a good bus network, but
many highlights are remote
and it is best to book guided
or organized tours locally.
For Kinabalu National Park, it
is worth chartering a taxi for
the day or asking the driver
who takes you there to
return to collect you. Fly from
Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan.
Stark high-altitude landscape on Gunung Kinabula, high above the tree line
•
Book ahead Book Sepilok
and Kinabatangan tours
Day 2: Kota Kinabalu and Day 5: Sandakan and
before arrival in Sandakan.
Excursions Kinabatangan
•
Note on safety Check your Either book an exciting but not Visit Sandakan’s Agnes Keith’s
government’s current travel too challenging rafting trip House (see p196), a beautifully
advisories for this area before down the Padas River (see preserved shrine to the
planning trips to some parts p187) or acquaint yourself American writer who helped
of Sabah (see p183). further with Sabah’s tribal publicize Borneo in the 1930s,
cultures at the Mari Mari and the Sandakan Memorial
Cultural Village (see p188), Park (see p196), commemorating
where you can try rice wine and Allied war dead who perished
be given a tour of the various on a forced march in 1944. In
longhouses. Back in Kota the afternoon, join a two-night
Kinabalu, ascend Signal Hill (see trip to the Kinabatangan
p184) in the late afternoon for a Wildlife Sanctuary (see p197),
scenic vista over the town from where there are excellent jungle
its observation platform. lodge accommodations.
Day 3: Kinabalu National Day 6: Kinabatangan River

Park Spend the day on river trips to
Head out to the Kinabalu spot proboscis monkeys and
National Park (see pp190–91) wonderful birdlife. Many
and spend the day walking packages include a visit to the
The Sabah Museum, Kota Kinabalu, the trails at the foot of the Gomantong Caves (see p197),
designed in the style of a Rungus longhouse mountain. The Bukit Tupai trail populated by swiftlets and bats,
affords a great view of Mount where you may see the edible
Day 1: Kota Kinabalu and Kinabalu. Late afternoon, visit swiftlet nests being harvested.
Klias Wetlands the nearby Poring Hot Springs
Kota Kinabalu (see pp184–5) (see p191) for a relaxing soak. Day 7: Sandakan
is a compact town, easily seen Return to Sandakan to fly out.
on foot. The main attractions Day 4: Sandakan and Sepilok
are the Sabah Museum (see Fly to Sandakan (see p196) in
p184) with its ethnographic the morning and check out the
exhibits such as a village waterfront with its boats,
showing the traditional markets, and Chinese temples.
dwellings of Sabah’s tribes; and Join a package trip out to
the town’s waterfront markets, Sepilok Orangutan Rehab-
selling produce and crafts. In ilitation Center (see p196),
the afternoon, head out to the where you can see the animals
Klias Wetlands (see p186) for an being fed. If possible, join a tour
escorted boat trip through the that includes the neighboring
mangrove forests. There’s an Sun Bear Conservation
excellent chance of seeing Center (see p196), which helps
bulbous-nosed proboscis rehabilate orphaned bears,
monkeys, and most tours linger and the Rainforest Discovery
in the evening to try to spot Center, with jungle trails and a Kingfisher spotted on a boat trip down
fireflies, which flash in unison. suspension bridge. the Kinabatangan River
18 I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E Hat Yai
Pattani
Putting Peninsular PATTANI
Malaysia on the Map SATUN

PERLIS
Bukit Kayu
Hitam Yala
Pulau
Bordered by Thailand to the north and Langkawi Kuala
connected to Singapore in the south by a

Perlis
Jitra
THAI
causeway and a bridge, Peninsular Malaysia
Kuala Kedah
occupies the extreme south of mainland Southeast Alor Star
Asia, lying between 2 and 7 degrees north of the Equator. KEDAH YALA
Off the west coast is the Strait of Malacca, while the east
coast looks out onto the South China Sea. The Betong
Sungai
majority of Malaysia’s 29 million inhabitants live on Petani
Banding
the peninsula, heavily concentrated on the west
coast, which includes the capital, Kuala Lumpur. A Butterworth
Grik
Georgetown
NOR
mountainous ridge runs down the center of the
Lawin
T
peninsula, separating the densely forested and
H-S
Penang Lake Kenering
Selama
OU
sparsely populated east coast from the west. TH Padang Gerus
HW
Bagan Serai
PERAK
Y
Key Taiping Kuala Kangsar
Highway
Ipoh
Major road
Railroad Batu Gajah
International border Kampar

Pulau
State border Pangkor
Tapah
Bidor
Teluk
Intan
Sabak
0 kilometers 50
0 miles 50 Sekincan
Kuala Selangor
Kapar
Pulau
Klang
Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo
Gulf of South China Sea
Thailand
SABAH
Strait M A L A Y S I A
of Bandar Seri
BRUNEI Begawan
Malacca
Kuala Lumpur
SARAWAK
SINGAPORE
see page 20–21
Borneo
I N D O N E S I A
0 km 300
Sumatra
0 miles 300
Duri
INDONESIA
Sai Buri
South China Sea NEPAL BHUTAN CHINA

TAIWAN
Narathiwat
LAND INDIA
BANGLADESH
MYANMAR
LAOS
VIETNAM
Tumpat
NARATHIWAT Kota Bharu PHILIPPINES
THAILAND
Pasir Mas CAMBODIA
Ketareh Perhentian
Pasir BRUNEI
Islands SRI LANKA
Puteh M A L AY S I A
Kuala Besut Pulau
Macang Redang SINGAPORE
Jeli
Tasik I N D O N E S I A
Temengor Kuala Kerai Merang
Kuala Terengganu
Kemubu
Marang
Bertam
Berang
KELANTAN Tasik Kenyir

Rantau Abang
Gua Musang TERENGGANU

Dungun Pulau Tenggol
Merapoh
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Je
la
M A L AY S I A Kijal
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Kuala Tembeling Cherating
Jerantut Beserah
PAHANG
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ng
SELANGOR Temerloh
Karak
Kuala
Lumpur
Muadzam
Klang Petaling Kota Bahagia Shah
Jaya NEGERI
Panting
SEMBILAN Pulau Tioman
Bahau
Ro Kuala Rompin
Kuala m
pin
Seremban Pilah
Seribuat
Tampin Gemas Segamat Archipelago
Port
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g
on
Alor Gajah Jasin r

St Tangkak be Jemaluang Pulau Tinggi
MELAKA Se m
ra Kahang Pulau Sibu
nik
it Melaka JOHOR
.Le
of Muar Keluang
M Air Hitam
Teluklecan
al
ac Layang- Mawai
NO
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ca Pahat
RT
H-
SO Kota Tinggi
UT Kulai
Dumai HH
WY
Pulau Bengkalis
Pontian Kecil Johor
Bahru
Kukup Singapore
Pulau Kukup
SINGAPORE
Putting Malaysian Borneo on the Map

Generally referred to as East Malaysia or Malaysian Borneo, this half of Malaysia
comprises the states of Sarawak, the largest in Malaysia, and Sabah, which
together occupy more than half of the country’s 127,445 sq miles (330,000 sq km).
The states are located in the northern part of Borneo, the world’s third-largest
island, which they share with tiny Brunei and Kalimantan, Indonesia. Borneo
lies about 373 miles (600 km) east of Peninsular Malaysia, from which it is
separated by the South China Sea. The region is rich in natural resources,
particularly oil and gas, and much of it is covered by rain forest and is sparsely
populated. Of a population of 6 million people, most live in the provincial
capitals, Kuching in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, while many
indigenous communities occupy remote outposts in the interior of the states.
Brunei Darussalam Muara

Berakas
BRUNEI MUARA
Bandar Seri Sundar
Begawan Lawas
Tutong
Pantai Labu
Kenangan Trusan
Limbang
Tr
us
Bangar
an
Kuala Lamunin
Seria Sungei Longhouse
Belait Liang TUTONG Long
S.Limb
TEMBURONG Tengoa
Bel
Nanga
ar
B
BELAIT Medamit
ait
am
an
Tu t o
Labi
ng
Kuala Balai
Rampayoh Lim
b
Teraja
an
Kuala
g
Belait
pir
ni
Bela
Pe
Ba
0 km 20
Miri
ra m
it
0 miles 20 Mulu
Long Seridan
Beluru
Suai Long Banio
South China Sea

Ti
nj
a ar
en
m
Ke
Bintulu Labang
Mukah Rumah
Melap
Belaga
Matu
An
Nanga Rumah
g
ap
China
I ga n
Daro n
Tamin ja Long Geng
Ra
M
Sibu
uk
ah S A R AWA K
Binatang Rumah Kam Rumah Kulit
Sarikei
Kanowit MALAY S I A
Julau Song Kapit Bal
Kabong eh
Sematan Santubong Gaat
Rumah Aryl
Saratok Rumah Rumah
Lundu Layang Besi
Sebangan r Rumah Mau
Lu ya
La
Kuching par
Siba u
Bau
Gedong Bandar
kam
Sri Aman
IND O N E S I A
ha
Sanggauledo Engkilili
Ma
Danau Luar
Putussibau Nahabuan
Key
Major road
Other road
0 km 25
Railroad
0 miles 25
State border
Pulau
Banggi
Sulu
Kudat
Sea
Telaga
Pulau Jambongan
Kanibongan
Sumangat
Golong
Kota Belud Terusan
Pulau
Langkayan
gut
Su
ud
ng
Tu
Kota Kinabalu Klagan Beluran Sandakan

Papar MALAYSIA Abai
Telupid Sukau
Pulau Lamag
Labuan Keningau Tomanggong
Lanas K i n aba
t a n ga n a
Beaufort Kuamut m
ga
Pa
Se
Nabawan
da
s Tenom
see inset
Bandar Seri Pendawang SABAH Lahad Datu
Tutong Begawan
Trusan Sapulut
Ka
Luasong Kunak
la
BR UNE I Long Tengoa ba
ka
n
Sapang
Nanga T Sigattal
Medamit
ru
Semporna
sa
Tawau
n
Pulau
Mulu Long Seridan Sipadan
Ulu Ulu
Bario Sembakung
Benuang
Siduman
Malinau
Long San Tarakan

Lio Matoh
Long
m
Palai ra
Ba
Tanjung Selor
Long Tikan
Long Tingen
Danum
Longkihan
Tanjung Redeb
Longisun
Longboh
Landscape and Wildlife

Although separated by the South China Sea, Peninsular
Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo form a part of the Sunda Shelf,
a tectonic plate that once joined them in a single land mass.
As a result, they share many geological features such as
mountains, river networks, pristine offshore islands, and some
of the world’s oldest rain forests. These rain forests provide a
habitat for a wealth of flora and fauna, including more than
15,000 types of flowering plants and nearly 200,000 species of
animals. Among these are well-known endemic species, such
as the orangutan, proboscis monkey, and rafflesia. Singapore
retains pockets of primary rain forest in its northern region, The tualang tree, one of the tallest plants
while three-quarters of Brunei is still covered by native forest. in Malaysia
Rain Forests Limestone Outcrops

The rain forests of Malaysia are about 130 million Many of Malaysia’s mountains are formed of
years old and nurture a phenomenal range of limestone, often rising dramatically out of the
plant life, from the 262-ft- (80-m-) tall tualang surrounding plain and containing massive
tree to an array of ferns, mosses, fungi, and cave networks caused by erosion. The most
orchids. They also provide a home for orangutans, spectacular limestone outcrops are found in
proboscis monkeys, tapirs, binturongs or Malay Sarawak’s Niah Caves (see p174) and in Mulu
civet cats, and honey bears, as well as hundreds National Park (see pp176–7).
of species of birds and butterflies.
Bats, such as
Malaysian tapirs the wrinkle-
are distinguished by their lipped bat, are
black and white coloring common residents
and pig-like snout. These of limestone caves.
vegetarian mammals are Each evening,
most active at night. millions of bats take
flight, filling the sky with
a fantastic display.
Cave swiftlets are

unusual birds that use
The orangutan is the echolocation to
only great ape found navigate the pitch-
outside Africa. These dark interiors of the
red-haired primates caves. White nest
now face extinction swiftlets are prized in
and are rarely seen Malaysia for their
in the wild. edible nests.
A P O R T R A I T O F M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 23
Malaysia’s Endangered Species

Malaysia’s population has doubled since the 1970s, and the growing
demand for living space is gradually destroying the habitat of several
wildlife species. In greatest danger is the Sumatran rhinoceros, whose
numbers are now thought to be fewer than 100. Several other species,
including the clouded leopard, Asian elephant, and the country’s national
animal, the tiger, have also seen a dramatic decline. Among marine life,
leatherback turtles and dugongs face a
similar threat.
The Sumatran rhinoceros
Clouded leopards, tawny or is critically endangered.
silver-colored cats, are hunted Its last remaining habitats
for their pelt, teeth, and bones, include Sabah and
the latter being used in Endau-Rompin National
traditional Asian medicines. Park (see p143).
Coastal Plains Offshore Islands

The west coast of Peninsular Malaysia The seas around both Peninsular Malaysia and
constitutes a long plain that provides an ideal Malaysian Borneo are studded with stunning
environment for human inhabitation. These islands, many of them surrounded by coral reefs
plains were the site of the earliest British that sustain an incredible wealth of marine life.
settlements. Most of the country’s important Divers are drawn to islands such as Tioman
towns and cities, such as Kuala Lumpur, were and Sipadan to observe the thriving
established here. underwater world.
Mangroves are trees Dugongs take their

and shrubs that form name from the Malay
swampy forests in saline word duyung, which
coastal waters and means mermaid.
provide a vital habitat for Persistent hunting has
a number of wildlife resulted in the near
species such as the extinction of these large
proboscis monkey. sea mammals.
Fiddler crabs are critical to the Coral reefs, formed

wetland environment as they help by tiny marine ani-
aerate the soil by their mals called polyps
feeding action. and other organisms,
Males have are beautiful living
asymmetrical structures. They are
and often essential to the
brightly preservation of
colored claws. marine life.
Marine Life
The waters around both Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian
Borneo contain a huge diversity of marine life that attracts
divers and snorkelers from around the world to gaze at
brilliantly colored parrotfish, lionfish, and clownfish flitting
around the vibrant coral reefs. For much of the year, the
superb clarity of the water makes it easy to spot even the
tiniest fish. The Malaysian government has designated
38 of its coral islands as protected areas to preserve their
unique and biologically sensitive ecosystems.
Snorkeler examining underwater life on a

coastal reef
Sea anemones, named for a species of garden flower, are

brightly colored, predatory animals that eat fish, mussels,
and zooplankton.
Coral Life
Over 350 species of coral have been identified in
Malaysian waters, making the country’s reefs some of
the most diverse in the world. Sadly, they are under
threat from sediment build-up caused by ongoing
logging, blast and cyanide fishing, and anchoring.
Gorgonian fan
corals reach up
to 16.5 ft (5 m)
in height in the
warm waters of the Brain corals are usually The star coral has a
tropics, filtering out found in colonies and bear stone-like calcium
the plankton and an uncanny resemblance skeleton and star-
zooxanthellae on to the human brain. shaped polyp.
which they live.
Yellow soft corals, so called because of their lack of a hard Sunflower corals have long polyps
external skeleton, have polyps with eight tentacles, and come tipped with stinging tentacles to
in a stunning kaleidoscope of colors. catch plankton.
Mandarin fish live camouflaged in broken coral

bottoms eating small crustaceans called copepods.
Coleman shrimp, always found in pairs, live The male is larger than the female and has a spiked
on the toxic fire urchin. They clear a resting dorsal fin which it uses to threaten other males.
area of poisonous spines and sit protected
from predators. Clownfish live in a
symbiotic relationship
Sea ferns are with sea anemones,
a type of gor- which defend
gonian coral them from
with varied
predatory fish.
shapes and
colors.
The lionfish, a reef

dweller of spectacular
appearance, is a
deadly killer, armed
with venomous
spines that it uses
to stun small fish.
Sea horses are unusual

in that it is the males
that give birth. Many
species are almost
transparent and hard
to spot. Their use in
Chinese medicine has
put them under threat
of extinction.
Lettuce coral is named for its green

color and spiraling plates that
resemble a growing lettuce. Turtle Conservation
Until recently, turtles were among
the most conspicuous forms of
marine life in Malaysia. Of the four
species of turtle known to breed in
these waters – the green, the
hawksbill, the olive ridley, and the
leatherback – only the green is now
commonly seen and the leather-
back is an endangered species.
There is ample evidence that human
intervention is destroying the
habitat and damaging the life cycle
of these turtles. Throughout their Green turtle swimming in the warm
lives, adult turtles are prone to waters near Malaysia
getting caught in fishing lines and
nets, while the increasing development of beaches has adverse effects
on the numbers of nesting females, eggs, and hatchlings.
Shoals of big-eye trevallies in the
South China Sea
Peoples of Malaysia and Singapore

The indigenous people of Malaysia settled in the region
some 40,000 years ago. Owing to its key position on maritime
trade routes from around 2,500 years ago, the region
acquired a large immigrant population. Today, Malays form
51 percent of the country’s 29 million inhabitants, with the
Chinese making up about a quarter, and the Indians about
7 percent. Indigenous groups comprise the remainder of the
population. By contrast, the Chinese form a strong majority A group of Orang Asli, the indigenous
in Singapore, where there are fewer Malays and Indians. people of Malaysia
The Malay
The largest ethnic group of Malaysia is, by definition, a Muslim
group. Believed to have arrived on the peninsula from
Sumatra, the Malays began converting to Islam in the 15th
century, owing to the rise of the Malay sultanates. Today, they
predominate on the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia, while in
Singapore, they constitute about 14 percent of the population.
Malays celebrate
Hari Raya Puasa, also
known as Hari Raya
Aidilfitri (see p58), the Traditional Malay culture revolves
Muslim New Year. Here, around village compounds called
Prime Minister Najib kampung, where inhabitants farm,
Razak joins other fish, and practice crafts. Today,
dignitaries in traditional many Malays have migrated to
Malaysian finery. urban centers.
The Chinese
Originally from southern China, most Chinese immigrants
arrived in Malaysia during the 19th century to work as
laborers in the burgeoning tin-mining industry.
Since then, they have dominated all aspects of
commerce and today, Malaysia has several
Chinatowns, where Chinese businesses
thrive. In Singapore, more than three-
quarters of the population is Chinese.
The Peranakans, also known as Straits Chinese traders can be seen selling
Chinese or Baba-Nyonya, are a community artifacts in Kuala Lumpur. The Chinese
born out of marriages between Chinese and have historically played a major role in
Malays from the 16th century onwards. the Malaysian economy.
South Asians
Indians have been trading with Malaysia for over 2,000 years.
However, most Malaysians of Indian origin settled here, like the
Chinese, during the 19th century. Although the immigrants
came largely from southern India, there are also people of
northern Indian descent, notably the Sikhs.
Asian women of Indian

descent sell handmade
silk at market stalls in
Kuala Lumpur. The A rubber tapper of south
ethnic enclaves of Little Indian origin collects latex
India (see p76) and from a rubber tree. Indians
Brickfields are packed have also traditionally been
with such stalls. employed on tea estates.
Indigenous Peoples of Malaysia

The indigenous peoples of Peninsular Malaysia, the Orang Asli,
are among the minority of the peninsula’s population, and gener-
ally live in its more inaccessible areas. In contrast, indigenous
tribes make up half the population of Sarawak and 66 percent of
Sabah. Many of these groups, including the Iban and Bidayuh
of Sarawak, live in longhouses and hold animist beliefs. Some,
like the Kelabit and Bajau, have converted to Christianity or
Islam. The tribes of Sabah, such as the Kadazan Dusun, are
traditionally agriculturalists, but most other groups were semi-
nomadic hunter-gatherer communities. They are now being The Bajau are predominantly
encouraged by the government to live in towns and villages. Muslim and are the second-largest
ethnic group in Sabah. Noted horse-
The Penan, the only true men, the Bajau dress in elaborate
nomadic indigenous group in costumes at the annual Tamu Besar
Malaysia, are skilled hunter- in Kota Belud (see p59).
gatherers. Of the 10,000
individuals living in the upper
Rajang and Limbang areas of
Sarawak, only about 200 are
truly nomadic.
The Rungus are an indigenous

The Kadazan Dusun are the largest people of northern Sabah. They are
ethnic group in Sabah, made up of a skilled in beadwork, weaving, and
number of subgroups, constituting gong-making. Rungus people live
about 25 percent of Sabah’s communally in longhouses around
population. They traditionally wear Kudat (see p189).
black silk outfits on festive occasions
such as the Dusun Harvest Dance.
The Bidayuh, or Land

Dayaks, build their
longhouses on hillsides, The Orang Ulu, or
rather than near water as upriver people, is an
the other groups in unofficial generic name
Sarawak do. The third- for about 27 small
largest of Sarawak’s and ethnically diverse
indigenous peoples, they groups, such as the
predominantly inhabit Kayan and Kenyah, living
the region around in the interior of Sarawak.
Kuching (see p165).
Bumiputras
The Malaysian authorities make an important
distinction between migrant peoples and the
bumiputras, or sons of the soil. The latter group
includes all Malays and indigenous peoples of the
country. This recognition was brought in as part of the
New Economic Policy, following race riots in 1969, to
boost the bumiputras’ economic standing in society. It
is much criticized by the Chinese and Indian migrants
as racially discriminatory, though some argue the The Iban, also known as Sea Dayaks, are the
policy has ultimately led to more stability as it gave largest ethnic group of Sarawak. They have
rise to a rich Malay group, whose financial interests lie an enduring reputation as fierce warriors
in maintaining political and economic harmony. and good hunters. The men are often
heavily tattooed.
Islam
While Malaysia is home to people of many different faiths,
Islam is the official religion. So closely bound is Malay
cultural identity with Islam that the Bahasa Malaysia phrase
for adopting Islam, masok melayu, means “to become a
Malay.” Arab and Indian-Muslim merchants, who doubled
as missionaries, began converting the local population
from the 11th century onwards. Most Malay Muslims are
orthodox Sunnis of the Shafi’i school but there are also
smaller numbers of Shia Muslims and Sufi mystics. Just over
60 percent of Malaysia’s population is Muslim; in Singapore, Domes are a characteristic
they form around 14 percent of the population. feature of all mosques. They
are generally onion-shaped
structures and are often
crowned by a crescent moon,
the universal symbol of Islam.
The courtyard of a mosque is designed to accommodate a

large number of worshipers. This courtyard at Johor Bahru’s
Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque holds 2,000 people.
A minaret is a lofty tower usually

located in one of the corners of a
mosque. From here the muezzin,
or caller to prayer, summons the
faithful five times a day.
Islamic Architecture
Despite the flamboyant exteriors of
some Islamic architecture, its real
beauty lies in the inner spaces of the
courtyard and rooms. This has often
led to it being called the architecture
of the veil. With its gleaming golden
dome and striking minarets, Ubudiah
Mosque (right) in Kuala Kangsar is
among Malaysia’s finest mosques.
This crenellated
arch at Kapitan
Keling Mosque (see
p108) in Georgetown,
Penang, is Moorish in
style, borrowing from
the architectural Colorful Islamic tilework is characterized by
tradition of Islamic intricate geometric patterns and graceful floral
Spain and the North motifs. Traditional Malay Muslim houses and
African Maghreb. mosques are adorned with these tiles.
Islamic Faith
Islam, which means “submission to the will of God” in Arabic, was founded by
the Prophet Muhammad at Mecca in Arabia, in AD 622. The principle of Islam
rests on an unshakeable faith in a single deity, Allah, and on his word delivered by
Muhammad in the Koran. The five pillars of Islamic faith are shahadah, witnessing
that there is only one God; salat, performing the five daily prayers; sawm, fasting
during the month of Ramadan; zakat, the giving of alms; and hajj, performing the
pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime.
The Koran is the central Salat is the

religious text of Islam, name given to
believed to be the the obligatory
inspired and immutable prayers that are
Word of God. Divided performed five times a day. The
into 114 units and faithful always pray in the direction
written in the Arabic of Mecca. Salat is believed to
script, it is often establish a direct link between the
memorized verbatim worshiper and the worshiped.
by the faithful.
Wuzu is the first

step of the ablutions
performed before
commencing the salat.
This is an essential act
of spiritual and physical
cleansing, as no prayer
is acceptable without
the complete wuzu.
Islamic Art
Architecture and calligraphy are the two most
distinctive and elegant art forms in Islam. Both have
developed to levels of great sophistication because of
the general prohibition of representational art forms.
The hadith, or Traditions of the Prophet Muhammad,
decree that “the house which contains pictures will not
be entered by the angels.” Geometry also plays a major
role in both architecture and calligraphy.
The Jawi script is a Malay variant of Arabic writing.

Zapin is a traditional Malay It is one of the two official scripts in Brunei and is
folk dance, with dancers also used in Malaysia and Singapore, particularly in
usually performing in pairs religious calligraphy.
accompanied by Islamic
devotional chanting. Believed
to have been introduced
by 14th-century Batik, the art of wax-resist
Muslim missionaries dyeing on textiles, is
from the Middle commonly used to
East, it is pattern garments such as
commonly sarongs with bright
performed designs. The most
in Johor Bahru popular of such designs
(see p134). are floral prints (see p36).
Hinduism and Buddhism

Hinduism and Buddhism are the major religions of Malaysia
and Singapore’s South Asian and Chinese communities
respectively. Although Hinduism dates back at least
1,500 years in both countries, the religion only took root
when contract laborers from India were recruited to work in
rubber and coffee plantations in Malaysia in the late 19th and
20th centuries. Buddhism became a permanent feature in
Malaysia and Singapore after Chinese immigrants spread the
religion to every part of the country in the 19th century. Monk praying at a shrine of Kuan Yin,
goddess of mercy
Hinduism
Hinduism in Malaysia and Singapore, complete with
its many rituals and deities, is directly taken from
Indian Hindu traditions, especially those of southern Statues of deities are Fresh flower
India from where most Indian migrants originated. enshrined at the garlands are used to
central altar. venerate the gods.
Devotees come Offerings may Hindu priests are

to temples for include flowers, Components Brahmins who
individual or incense, and of a prayer belong to the
communal puja, fruits such as ritual include highest of the four
or worship, ritual coconuts, which frankincense, main castes. They
occasions, and to are sprinkled myrrh, and tend to the temple
make offerings to with holy water other aromatic and officiate at
honor the gods. during prayers. combustibles. ceremonies.
Shaivism
Shaivism is a form of Hinduism which worships
Lord Shiva as the main manifestation of the
supreme being. His consort, Parvati, and their
two sons, Murugan and Ganapati, are also
worshiped by Shaivites. Shaivism grew
The gopuram, or entrance prominent in Malaysia and Singapore as the
gateway to Hindu temples, Indian immigrants who settled there in the
is often multitiered and 19th century were mainly from southern India
elegantly decorated with where the worship of Shiva is popular. The
colorful sculptures from Sri Shivan temples in Singapore and Malaysia Vibrant portrait of
the vast pantheon of are especially revered by Shaivites. Lord Shiva
Hindu gods.
Buddhism
In both Malaysia and Singapore the Chinese communities follow the
Mahayana school of Buddhism practiced in China, Japan, Korea, and
Vietnam. The Thais of Singapore and the Orang Syam, or indigenous
Thais of Malaysia, follow Theravada Buddhism, practiced in Thailand,
Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar, and Sri Lanka. Buddhism in both countries
is a fusion of different beliefs. In Singapore it is combined with
Confucianism, Taoism, and ancestor worship. Buddhism is also
personalized and centers around Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.
Belief in luck and filial piety are also central features of Buddhism. Buddhist monks shave
their heads, wear saffron
The Buddha’s halo, or robes, and generally go
nimbus, commonly barefoot to indicate a life
depicted in Buddhist art,
of austerity.
signifies enlightenment and
spiritual development.
The Buddha’s hair is generally
arranged in the form of snail-
An urna, or a small shell curls, and surmounted by
protuberance between the an ushnisa, or topknot.
Buddha’s eyes, represents the
“third eye” of spiritual vision, a
mark of a holy man.
Elongated earlobes are
thought to be the result of
heavy earrings worn by the
The Buddha is often depicted Buddha as a prince.
with a serene expression and
a faint smile.
A simple monk’s robe

represents the Buddha’s life
of renunciation.
The wheel-turning pose
represents the Wheel of Law,
or dhammachakra, set in
motion by the Buddha’s first
sermon at Sarnath, India.
The cross-legged posture
is the position in which
Bare feet with both soles Buddha is most commonly
turned upward and resting portrayed.
on opposite thighs signifies
meditation.
Principles of Buddhism
Despite the existence of two main schools and
different sects that have evolved over the
centuries, the central principles of
Buddhism are common to most forms
of the religion. These include the
Four Noble Truths; the Eight-Fold
Path; karma, or the moral law of
cause and effect, which is
symbolized by the Wheel of Law,
and nirvana, or enlightenment. The
Devout Buddhists burn incense and make Mahayana, or Greater Vehicle, school
offerings at temples across Malaysia and stresses the role of the bodhisattva or Buddhist Wheel
Singapore to show respect to the Buddha, religious adept who, having gained of Law
the sangha, or order of monks, and the nirvana, voluntarily renounces it to
dhamma, or teachings of the Buddhist enlighten others. The Theravada, or Lesser
canon. Offerings often include fruit and Vehicle, school emphasizes the role of the arhat,
flowers. Worshipers usually ask for good or worthy one, who has attained nirvana.
health and prosperity.
Secular Architecture
The traditional vernacular architecture of Malaysia
and Singapore is mainly Malay and Straits Chinese,
but a strong colonial influence is also apparent in
buildings constructed during periods of British,
Portuguese, and Dutch rule. In contrast, both
countries boast stunning modern architecture, most
prominently seen in their soaring skyscrapers. This is
particularly true of Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. The Singapore skyline is dominated by spectacular
high-rise buildings
Straits Chinese Characteristic

Overhanging
Straits Chinese architecture centers on the gabled roof
floors protect
ubiquitous shophouse, found throughout pedestrians
Malaysia and Singapore. Buildings of this from the sun
style were introduced by immigrants from (see p111)
the Guangdong province of southern China.
Classic shophouses
comprise a ground floor,
whose street-facing portion
Flower motif on is used to conduct business,
a Peranakan and upper floors that serve
shophouse tile. as living quarters.
Traditional Malay House

The traditional Malay house tends to be raised on stilts,
with extensions added when necessary. The house is
centered around the rumah ibu, or main living room.
Pitched roof with Serambi gantung, or

gables hanging veranda
The interiors are ventilated by many

open spaces such as verandas and
windows. Traditionally, the houses have
Stilts that protect the house from floods wooden walls and thatched roofs.
Longhouses Living quarters

occupied by individual
Indigenous peoples of Sabah
families Bamboo and rattan, the
and Sarawak traditionally live in
traditional building materials Open veranda
longhouse communities (see
p173), with each family occupying a or tanju
separate apartment under a single
contiguous roof. The entire
structure is raised on stilts.
Longhouses commonly have a

covered veranda, or ruai, which
runs the length of the building,
backed by a series of living
quarters, or bileks. There is also
a tanju, or open veranda. Shaded area used as shelter for domestic animals
Minangkabau Wide eaves for protection Wooden shingles used in place

against rain of thatch
The spectacular architecture of
the Minangkabau people,
concentrated in the state of
Negeri Sembilan, is chiefly
distinguished by upswept roofs
rising to pointed peaks that
represent the horns of a victorious
buffalo, or minangkabau (see
p127). Traditionally, the roofs were
thatched with the fronds of the
nipa palm, but today they are Minangkabau houses, or rumah
more usually shingled, or even minangkabau, are recognizable by the Windows permitting air
made from galvanized iron. distinctive style of their roofs. circulation
Colonial Buildings
Colonial buildings in both Malaysia and Singapore
combine British Indian, Dutch East Indian, and
Portuguese styles, often combined with indigenous
Malay elements, Islamic motifs, and classical
European flourishes. Elaborate decorations and
wooden traceries lend individuality and style.
Classical façade
Mock-Tudor bungalows are not

uncommon in the hill stations of
Peninsular Malaysia. These were built by
British plantation owners.
The Raffles Hotel in Singapore dates from

1887 and is named after Sir Stamford Raffles,
the founder of Singapore (see pp220–21). It is
Grand entrance portico the epitome of colonial elegance.
Modern Architecture
Both Malaysia and Singapore are distinguished The 1,483-ft (452-m)-tall Petronas towers
by their steel and concrete skyscrapers, often
with façades of light- and heat-reflecting
mirrored glass. While contemporary buildings in Tower consisting of 88 floors,
Malaysia incorporate elements of traditional 10 escalators, and 76 elevators
Islamic architecture, Singaporean designs
Skybridge connecting the
remain entirely modernistic.
towers at 558 ft (170 m) off
the ground
The Petronas
Towers are
Malaysia’s most
famous modern
structures. With
88 stories, they
The futuristic Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay, with twin are the tallest
domes (see p216), adds to Singapore’s ultramodern cityscape, twin buildings
in contrast with the city’s traditional Indian, Chinese, and in the world
colonial architecture. (see p78).
Festivals of Malaysia and Singapore

Life in Malaysia and Singapore is punctuated with
festivals, which are both frequent and spectacular.
Although some festivals have a fixed date according
to the international calendar, the Malay Muslim,
Hindu, and Chinese traditions all set their festive days
according to the lunar calendar (see p321), making
these celebrations movable events. Fortunately, the
Malaysia and Singapore tourist boards regularly Giant banners in abundance, marking the
publish calendars of national and local festivals. beginning of the Chinese New Year
The dragon is a mythical

beast symbolizing justice,
wealth, and good fortune.
The colors used are

predominantly red and gold,
representing prosperity and
long life.
Seven poles support the

body, although more
may be needed if the
dragon is long.
A traditional dinner with the entire family is
perhaps the most important aspect of the
celebrations at the New Year, which is also
considered the time for new beginnings.
Chinese New Year

The most significant festival for the Chinese is the
Lunar New Year. In Singapore and in some parts
of Malaysia, such as Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh, Taiping,
and Johor Bahru, this 15-day festival is marked
by chingay, a joyous street parade with lion
dancers, stilt-walkers, giant banners, music, and
colorful floats. Almost all the festival rituals are
focused on bringing good luck and prosperity.
The leader of the team must be the
most skilled and experienced of the
dancers as the others follow him.
The display of fireworks in the night skies The lion dance is a traditional dance form that dates
above the Petronas Towers is a spectacular back more than a thousand years. A pair of dancers
highlight of the extravagant New Year’s Eve trained in martial arts form the fore and hind legs of the
celebrations in Kuala Lumpur. lion, mimicking its motions.
Hari Raya Puasa

For Malay Muslims, the most important
festival of the year is Hari Raya Puasa,
also known as Aidilfitri in Malay, mark-
ing the end of the fasting month of
Ramadan. Throughout the ninth month
of the Muslim calendar, believers abstain
from eating and drinking between sun-
rise and sunset. With the sighting of the
new moon on the 30th day of the ninth
month, Ramadan ends and the tenth
month is ushered in with feasting on
traditional fare such as ketupat, or rice
cakes, and lemang, or glutinous rice. Devout Muslim men start the day at the mosque for morning
prayers, dressed in their finest clothes. Graves are cleaned
and quarrels forgiven before the festivities begin.
The long, narrow body of
the dragon is designed for
sinuous movement.
Muslim children
Dragon dancers must light firecrackers
be fit and need to
practice regularly to
on Hari Raya Puasa
put on a good show. and are given duit
raya, or gifts of
money, in small
green envelopes.
For three days,
family, friends, and
neighbors visit
each other.
Thaipusam
Celebrated by the southern Indian communities of
Malaysia and Singapore, Thaipusam honors the Hindu
god Murugan, youngest son of the gods Shiva and Parvati.
It is held in the Tamil month of Thai (between January and
February). The largest Thaipusam festival takes place
at the Batu Caves, with over one million devotees and
10,000 tourists attending it. Worshipers shave their
heads and undertake a pilgrimage along a set route,
performing various acts of devotion along the way.
Kavadi carriers hold elaborately decorated metal

frames called kavadi. Adorned with peacock
feathers, these portable altars are attached to
devotees with skewers pierced into the skin.
The Batu Caves (see p96), dedicated to Lord

Murugan, are one of the prime pilgrimage
sites for Malaysia’s Hindus. A spectacular scene
unfolds at this site just outside Kuala Lumpur
during Thaipusam, when pilgrims climb the
272 steps to the temple at the summit.
Arts and Crafts of Malaysia

Malaysia has a wealth of indigenous artistic traditions,
many dating back centuries, but its arts and crafts have
also been enriched by the cultural influences of Chinese,
Indians, and other peoples. While Peninsular Malaysia
excels at metalwork, Malaysian Borneo produces the most
spectacular woodcarvings. Besides pottery, ceramic, brass,
and silverware, a wide range of regional artistry, such as
kite-making in Kota Bharu, is available. The country has a
flourishing art scene, influenced by Hindu, Buddhist, Islamic, Labu sayong water pots from Sayong, near
and Chinese cultures, and more recently by Western art. Kuala Kangsar
Malayasian Textiles
Batik, which means writing in wax, is extremely popular
in Malaysia, forming part of the Malay national dress.
Among the best places to buy traditional batik is Kuching in
Sarawak. The country’s textile traditions also encompass
fine silk and cotton cloth originally created for the
royal courts. These include kain lemar, or silk brocade
interwoven with ikat; kain sutera, or woven silk; kain
songket, or rich brocade; and kain mastuli, or heavy silk.
Ikat cloth is made

using a tie-and-dye
technique on the
threads before they
are woven into
elaborate patterns.
Today, the best
ikat, such as this
decorative Iban
blanket, comes
from Sarawak.
Batik motifs are Melted wax is applied to

usually floral or the cloth to prevent dyes
geometric. from penetrating.
Pua kumbu cloths are woven by the Iban for use in

ceremonies and for decoration. Weaving is done
primarily by women and the motif they use once
showed their status. Today, motifs vary from plant and
animal themes to more abstract patterns.
Songket Silk
The term songket is derived from the Malay menyongket,
which means to embroider with silver or gold thread. The
metallic thread inserted between the silk strands stands out
on the background cloth, creating a shimmering effect.
Kain sutera is a
type of songket
used for sarongs
traditionally Kain mastuli is a rich and heavy variety
worn on formal of songket silk thread that is used when
or ceremonial making traditional garments and
occasions. decorative fabrics.
Woodcarving
Malaysian Borneo boasts the best and most varied forms
of woodcarving in the country. Indigenous people of the
region are known for their carving of spirit and totem
figures, masks, and good luck charms.
Elaborate wooden
masks are carved by
the indigenous
Malay woodcarvers work deftly and with peoples of Malaysian
confident speed. Some of the best are Borneo to fend off evil
found in Kuching and Kota Bharu. and bad luck.
This gilt carving

of a bat on the
window frame of
a Melakan house
is a Peranakan
symbol of good
fortune.
A tribal grave
post with a
totemic figure is
displayed at
Kuching’s Sarawak
Museum.
Intricately carved shields were traditionally carried by

Iban warriors into battle. The heavy wooden shields were
often decorated with hideous faces to demoralize foes.
Metalwork Brass is used for

Traditional Malaysian silverware and jewelry has making household,
been influenced by the Peranakan. Metalware decorative, and
ceremonial objects.
produced and sold in the markets of Penang,
This brass screen in
Melaka, and Kuching often shows considerable
Kuala Lumpur’s
southern Indian influence. The products include Sri Kanthaswamy
gongs produced in Sumangkap (see p188), a Hindu Temple
range of brass items, and keris. shows the intricate
detailing that is
typical of Malaysian
craftsmanship.
Keris, or daggers,
are weapons Silverware of the
unique to Malay finest quality is
culture. They are produced in
said to possess Kelantan and
magical powers Terengganu.
that protect their Malaysian silver-
owners and ware is known for
bring death to its intricate filigree
enemies. work and designs.
I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 39
THE HISTORY OF
MALAYSIA AND
SINGAPORE
The early history of the Malay peninsula is shrouded in mystery. But records
of the subsequent centuries depict a great trading nation beleaguered by
foreign invaders attracted by its abundant natural wealth and strategic position
between the key maritime trade centers of India and China. Following their
independence, Malaysia and Singapore have rapidly emerged as models of
economic progress and modernization.
The discovery in 1958 of a human skull the peninsula as suvarnabhumi, or the

at Niah Caves in Sarawak and stone land of gold, from as early on as 200 BC.
tools from Perak point towards human The growth of trade relations with India
occupation of the region as far back as brought the coastal peoples of the Strait of
40,000 BC. Findings of pottery and stone Malacca into contact with Buddhism and
objects from both the peninsula and Hinduism, as well as with Indian notions of
Malaysian Borneo, dating between kingship. For example, the Malay word for
2800 and 500 BC, prove the existence ruler, rajah, was borrowed from Sanskrit.
of a Neolithic culture in this region. Significant archaeological finds, such as
Although few iron and bronze objects Sanskrit inscriptions and Hindu and
have been found in Malaysia, evidence in Buddhist statues (especially in Kedah in
the form of huge Bronze Age Dongson northwest Malaysia), suggest that Indian
drums links Peninsular Malaysia to northern influence was well established in a number
Vietnam at around 500–300 BC. The drums, of settlements along the west coast of
together with beads and pottery from India the peninsula by the 5th century AD.
and China also found on the peninsula and Chinese trade was significant too,
dating back to the same time, indicate that beginning from the 2nd century, via the
international trade networks were already Cambodian kingdom of Funan which
well established and foreign goods were extended its influence into the northern
being exchanged for the region’s rich peninsula. The growing use of the sea to
resources, including tin, gold, aromatic transport goods from western Asia to China
woods, and spices. So rich was this trade gave further impetus to the emergence of
that the Indians seem to have referred to port kingdoms in the Malaysian world.
Stone Age tools,

500–300 BC Period of the Bronze Age AD 400–500 Increasing
Lenggong Museum
Dongson culture in northern Vietnam Southeast Asian trade
with China
40,000–2800 BC AD 1–99 Kingdom of Funan established
Prehistoric Age in the lower Mekong Delta
2000 BC 1000 BC 0 AD 200 AD 400
200 BC Maritime trade links Dongson drum

2800–500 BC established between India and
Neolithic Age Southeast Asia; Hindu influences
begin to spread across the region
Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Wales Island by William Daniell, 1821

Srivijaya
The first of the port kingdoms to become a
great pan-Malay confederation was the
Hindu-Buddhist, maritime trade-based
empire of Srivijaya. It emerged in the course
of the 7th century and established its capital
near Palembang in southeastern Sumatra.
Srivijaya evolved into a wealthy and
powerful Malay kingdom, dominating
maritime passages around the Strait of Arrival of Arab merchants and missionaries in Southeast Asia
Malacca and the Sunda Strait (between
Java and Sumatra), as well as the overland the increasing presence of Chinese ships
portage routes across Peninsular Malaysia encouraged Srivijaya’s vassals to break away
as far north as Nakhon Si Thammarat in from Palembang’s grip. By the late 13th
present-day Thailand. From its strategic century, the Thai kingdoms of Sukhothai
position, Srivijaya was able to attract and and Ayutthaya had acquired considerable
monopolize overseas commerce between influence over the peninsula, as had the
India and China, acting as a great entrepôt Hindu Majapahit empire of Java over
for Southeast Asian shipping as well as a southeast Sumatra.
source for rare and valuable goods, from
scented woods to gold. The Spread of Islam
The rulers of Srivijaya developed Islam came to Southeast Asia as a
methods of government which became religion of trade, not one of conquest.
popular with succeeding kingdoms Introduced by Arab merchants and
such as Melaka. Paramount among these missionaries around the 11th century, the
concepts was complete loyalty to the ruler, religion spread rapidly across Peninsular
who was associated with divine powers – Malaysia with Indian-Muslim traders. The
disloyalty was severely punished. While a Terengganu Stone, discovered in the
mixture of Hinduism, Buddhism, and peninsula’s northeastern province in 1899,
indigenous spirit belief was practiced in bears an inscription in the Malay Arabic
Srivijaya, it gained prominence as a script, suggesting that Islamic law was esta-
center of Buddhist learning. blished here as early as 1303. However,
Srivijaya prospered until the 11th century, Islam received its greatest boost when it
after which it began to decline, weakened was made state religion of the Sultanate of
by wars both with Java and the south Melaka in the 15th century. Spreading to
Indian Chola kingdom. The power of the the farthest corners of the Melakan empire,
Hindu-Buddhist rajahs was also being Islam gradually came to be associated with
undermined by Islam. At the same time, the national identity of Malays.
Illustration 1000s With the arrival of

depicting Arab merchants, Islam
700s Golden medieval Arab spreads throughout the
age of Srivijaya merchants region
AD 700 AD 850 AD 1000
992–1016 Wars between 1025 Raids by

Srivijaya and Java Chola kings
Thai Srivijaya-style
Boddhisattva
T H E H I S TO R Y O F M A L AY S I A A N D S I N G A P O R E 41
The Rise of Melaka

Around 1400, Parameswara, the prince of
Palembang, attempted to throw off Javanese
domination over his realm by fleeing to
Tumasik in present-day Singapore, before
finally establishing a new kingdom at Melaka.
Ideally located on the Strait of Malacca and
within easy reach of the spice islands of
Indonesia, the new state attracted trade from
across Asia. In 1405, Zheng He, the great
Chinese Ming admiral, launched his explo- Plan of the city of Melaka by Pedro Baretti de Resende, c.1511.
rations of Southeast Asia and the Indian
Ocean, and made Melaka the main outpost dominating much of the Malay world.
for his fleet. This helped secure a trade agree- Though ties with the Imperial Court in
ment with China as well as protection from China were fostered for added protection,
its emperor against the constant threat of the sultanate developed into an independ-
Siamese attacks. The city of Melaka became ent and centralized administration with the
truly cosmopolitan: given the seasonal sultan as absolute ruler. He oversaw a fairly
winds, ships from China, Japan, India, and complex legal and administrative structure
Persia might spend at least a year in the port. which ensured the stability of the kingdom.
The spread of Islam in Melaka is believed High-ranking officials of the state included
to have taken place between 1425 and the bendahara, or prime minister, the
1445, when Parameswara’s successors laksamanas, or admirals, who commanded
made Islam the state religion and took the the army and navy, the temenggung, or
title of Sultan, thus giving rise to the minister responsible for defense and justice,
Sultanate of Melaka. The adoption of Islam and the syahbandar, or harbor master.
helped link Melaka to the vast Muslim Government was formalized in the Undang-
trading world, and by the end of the 15th Undang Melaka, or codified laws of Melaka,
century it was the region’s major entrepôt, which constantly evolved under successive
sultans. The basis for Melakan law was
threefold – Hindu-Buddhist tradition,
Islamic tradition, and adapt, or indigenous
tradition. Concurrently, Melaka became a
center for Islamic dissemination throughout
present-day Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei.
The state’s influence was reflected in the
emergence of the Malay language as the
Relief of Zheng He, Chinese temple in Semarang, Java language of trade throughout the region.
1425–45 Melaka ruler

Sukhothai-style adopts Islam and takes
vessel with lid 1400 Parameswara founds the title of Sultan
the kingdom of Melaka
1150 1300 1450
1238 Foundation of 1303 Terengganu

the Thai Kingdom of Stone records the
Sukhothai establishment of Melaka tin coin, the earliest known
Islamic law indigenous coins of the Malay States
Portuguese Conquest Looking to protect itself against its

By the 15th century, the Portuguese were enemies, the sultan forged an alliance with
eager to challenge Venice’s position as the Dutch. In 1602, all the Dutch
the sole suppliers of spices in Europe, trading enterprises in Asia
as well as to break the monopoly of combined to form The United
the Arab and Indian Muslim Netherlands Chartered East
traders over the immensely India Company (VOC), which
valuable spice trade. In 1509, an recognized the need to seize
initial Portuguese expedition control of Melaka to gain
under Admiral Lopez de Sequeira monopoly of the spice trade. In
arrived in Melaka, but was driven off 1640, the Dutch, with the help of
by the sultan’s army. A much larger Alfonso the Sultan of Johor, attacked
and better-equipped fleet, led by de Albuquerque Melaka and after a year-long siege
Admiral Alfonso de Albuquerque in 1511, succeeded in displacing the Portuguese. In
succeeded in capturing Melaka after a return for its support, Johor was granted
40-day siege, ushering in the era of trading privileges and by the end of the
European colonial powers in the region. 17th century it had grown into a powerful
Sultan Mahmud Shah escaped to the kingdom. At the height of its power it
interior of the peninsula, where his elder controlled southern Peninsular Malaysia
son, Muzaffar Shah, eventually established and part of eastern Sumatra.
the Sultanate of Perak in the north, and When the Dutch took over, much of
his younger son, Alauddin Riyat Shah, Melaka lay in ruin owing to the 1640–41
founded the Johor Sultanate in the siege. During their rule, the Dutch rebuilt
south. This period also saw the rise of the the city and many of these structures
Sumatran state of Aceh as a regional power. survive to this day. Among the prominent
Although Melaka remained a Portuguese buildings is the Stadthuys (see p128), the
colony for over a century, the period saw a oldest Dutch building in Southeast Asia.
three-way struggle between Aceh, the
sultanates of Johor and Perak, and the
Portuguese for the control of Melaka,
which lasted most of the 16th century.
The Dutch Era

The new kingdom of Johor faced its own
share of assaults, from both the Portuguese
and Aceh, and it was not until the arrival of
the Dutch, toward the end of the 16th
century, that it succeeded in consolidating
its position. Dutch ships attacking a Portuguese vessel on the Indian Ocean
1511 Portuguese 1602 United Netherlands

Admiral Alfonso 1550s Rise of Chartered East India
de Albuquerque Aceh in north Company (VOC) formed 1641 Dutch capture
seizes Melaka Sumatra Melaka from Portugal
1500 1560 1620
1528–35 Sultanates of Johor

and Perak founded
Coat of arms of the VOC above
one of the gates on Galle Fort,
Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
1786, Sir Francis Light (see p109) signed a

treaty and acquired Penang from the Sultan
of Kedah on behalf of the company and
established it as a commercial and naval
base. He also declared it as a free trading
port and Penang soon thrived. After Europe’s
Napoleonic Wars (1800–15), Britain emerged
as the leading power in Asia. In 1819, Sir
Stamford Raffles (see p44) repeated Light’s
Dutch merchant and VOC ships at Jakarta, 17th century work at Penang with considerable success
in Singapore, which also became a booming
Yet, over the next 180 years under the trade port. In 1824, Britain and the
Dutch, Melaka’s prosperity declined as the Netherlands signed the Anglo-Dutch Treaty
new colonial rulers concentrated on dividing the Malay world, with the Malay
developing their main base at Batavia, peninsula passing to Britain and the bulk of
which is now Jakarta in Indonesia. the Indonesian Archipelago to the Dutch.
Thus, Melaka passed to the British in
Borneo exchange for Bengkulu on Sumatra,
Until the arrival of the British, the areas that which went to Holland.
now comprise Sarawak, Sabah, and the tiny, Initial British policy towards Malaysia was
oil-rich state of Brunei had little to do with determinedly one of “trade, not territory,”
the Malay peninsula. Most of Borneo, as and also like the Dutch, but unlike the
well as part of the neighboring Sulu Portuguese, the British were not interested in
Archipelago (present-day Philippines), was spreading Christianity, but rather in free trade
ruled by the powerful Brunei Sultanate. In and profit. They limited their direct control to
1704, during a period of internal unrest, the Straits Settlements (see pp44–5), formed
Brunei appears to have ceded part of Sabah in 1826. The Malay Peninsula became part of
to the Sultan of Sulu in return for the latter’s Britain’s sphere of influence, but remained
military assistance. The territory eventually largely self-governing and independent.
passed to Malaysia via the British, but the
Philippines tried to reclaim Sabah as their
land after the formation of Malaysia in 1963.
Arrival of the British

Things changed dramatically in Malaysia
with the arrival of the British in the 18th
century. The British East India Company
(EIC) needed a halfway base for their
maritime trade with India and China. In British ships arriving to take control of Melaka in 1824
Sir Stamford Raffles

1819 Sir Stamford
Raffles founds 1826 Formation
1704 Brunei cedes part Singapore of the Straits
of Borneo to Sulu Settlements
1680 1740 1800
1786 Sir Francis 1824 Melaka

Light acquires passes to Britain
Detail of Borneo from Peter
Penang for the under the Anglo-
Plancius’s chart of Borneo, 1595
British East India Dutch Treaty
Company
The Straits Settlements

Between 1826 and 1946, the British Crown held a group
of geographically separate territories consisting of
Penang, Melaka, Singapore, Province Wellesley, and
surrounding islands, under the collective name of the
Straits Settlements. Colonial influence in the area,
however, began as early as 1786, when the Sultan of
Kedah ceded Penang to the British East India Company in
exchange for protection from Siam and Burma. As other
areas came under colonial power, they were built up to
promote trade. The consequent close association of the
region is still visible today in the racial and cultural ties of
its mixed ethnic communities and the legacies of its British East India vessel off Melaka, early
architectural style and landmarks. 19th century
The British in Penang employed Chinese

and Indian migrants, and sometimes
indigenous Malays, as laborers on road
construction projects throughout the island.
Colonization
The British did not arrive at the Straits Settlements
in large numbers, instead establishing themselves
as the ruling elite and employing migrants from
India, China, and other parts of the British Empire
to administer the new colonies and serve as
soldiers, laborers, and tradesmen.
Chinese junks were used extensively for
trade between the Settlements.
Stamford Raffles
One of the British Empire’s
most celebrated statesmen,
Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles
(1781–1826) began his
career at the age of 14 as a
clerk with the British East
India Company in London.
He worked his way up to
become Lieutenant-Governor
Sir Stamford of Java in 1811 and was
Raffles knighted in 1817. In 1819,
Raffles signed a treaty with a
local sultan, laying the foundation for modern
Singapore. Also a founder and first president
of the Zoological Society of London, he is Sultan Abdul Hamid Halim Shah of Kedah and
remembered in the name of the largest flower his entourage in 1900. Like all sultans who reigned
in the world, the rafflesia. after the British took control of Penang in 1786, he
had no real power in the island’s government.
Trade Penang’s first coin, bearing the

The Straits Settlements were acquired by the British to British East India Company
crest, was minted in 1787
function as free trade ports, not to promote territorial
in Calcutta. Sir Francis
ambitions. By establishing such ports, Britain sought to
Light is said to have fired
dominate trade routes between Europe and Asia. cannons loaded with
coins into the jungle to
coax laborers to clear it.
1/4 cent coins, bearing the

sovereign’s head, were
first struck in 1826, the
year the Straits Settle-
ments passed into the
Spice plantations were set up in Penang to grow mace, hands of the British
nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper, which were rare and Government.
valuable commodities in 18th-century Europe.
A new port at Singapore was envisaged by

Raffles as a free port astride the sea lanes
between Europe and the Far East. Today, it is one
of the busiest ports in the world.
Culture
The Straits Settlements developed as a
fascinating melting pot of cultures.
Immigrants from Asia lived side by side with
Portuguese, Dutch, and British settlers, as
well as indigenous Malays.
Gas lighting was one of many innovations

brought by the British to the Settlements.
Peranakan culture
grew alongside the
development of the
Settlements. New Early Chinese settlers, as
customs were born well as Peranakan men, wore
out of the marriages their hair in distinctive long
between the Chinese ponytails, or queues,
and Malay, which well into the late 19th
blended the traditions century. This was a sign
of each culture. of their allegiance to
Peranakan weddings the Qing Empire.
were 14-day affairs in
which the couple
wore Chinese dress.
Kling is an outdated name for early Tamil

settlers originating from southern India.
They formed the majority of South Asian
migrants to the Straits Settlements.
A lithograph depicting the scene of a battle with pirates during James Brooke’s rule
The Rise of the White Rajahs indigenous people, as well as ward off
Britain did not include Borneo in the Anglo- unruly Malay pirates who wreaked havoc
Dutch Treaty, preferring to concentrate on the coast. Brooke’s rule was remarkably
their interests on the peninsula. By the late progressive, and he sought to establish
18th century, Brunei was in decline and law and order as well as welfare for the
faced increasing unrest from the local people. He gradually won
indigenous peoples as well as the trust of the indigenous
territorial claims from the Sulu communities, although he faced
Sultanate. In 1838, James Brooke, an and put down a rebellion by
explorer and former officer with the Chinese migrants in 1857. When
East India Company, set out to seek he died in 1868, James Brooke
his fortune in the East Indies. En was succeeded as rajah by his
route he passed through Singapore nephew, Charles Brooke (1829–
and was asked by the British 1917), who was responsible for
James Brooke, the first
governor to deliver a message to White Rajah of Sarawak expanding the territory of
Rajah Muda Hashim, Governor of Sarawak at the expense of the
Kuching in Sarawak. Brooke arrived in shrinking Brunei Sultanate. During his reign,
Sarawak in 1839 to find the territory in a Sarawak also became a British protectorate
state of revolt, with the indigenous Dayaks in 1888, with the Brooke family retaining
rising up against the Sultan of Brunei. He control of the internal administration.
was enlisted to help the sultan and together
they crushed the rebellion within a year. Expansion of British Control
As a reward, in 1841, the sultan made In the mid-19th century, Sabah remained
Brooke the Rajah of Sarawak, the first of under the loose control of Brunei (with Sulu
three White Rajahs (see p163). Brooke, chiefs exercising authority at a local level).
backed by British naval power, used his Enfeebled by internal disputes, Brunei
position to consolidate his rule over the sought to lease the territory, first to Claude
Signing the treaty for the cession

of Labuan, Borneo, in 1846 1874 Treaty of Pangkor
signed; first
1847 Signing of the 1865 Brunei leases Sabah to Claude Lee British Resident
treaty of Labuan Moses, the American consul installed in Perak
1840 1850 1860 1870
1841 James Brooke 1868 Death of

becomes the first 1857 Brooke puts down Charles Brooke, James Brooke,
White Rajah Chinese rebellion second White Charles Brooke
Rajah of Sarawak succeeds
Lee Moses, the American consul in

Brunei, in 1865, then to Baron von
Overbeck, the Austrian consul in
Hong Kong in 1875, and finally to
Englishman Alfred Dent, who
established the British North Borneo
Company (BNBC) in 1881. In 1888,
Sabah, along with Sarawak, came
under British government protection.
Like the White Rajahs, however, the
company retained control of internal British officials with the sultans of the Federated Malay States
administration. A resistance move-
ment started by Mat Salleh in 1895 against This revolt was quickly quashed, and the
the company’s rule was not defeated until process of appointing British Residents
1905 (five years after Mat Salleh’s death). continued. In 1896, the states of Pahang,
Following that, Sabah remained a quiet Selangor, and Negeri Sembilan joined Perak
colonial backwater. as part of the British-controlled Federated
At about the same time, the British began Malay States, which were administered
to refine their policies of non-intervention in from the Sultan Abdul Samad Building in
the Malay peninsular states. The booming Kuala Lumpur. In 1909, under the terms of
tin industry had attracted large numbers of the Anglo-Siamese Treaty, the former Thai
Chinese immigrants to the states of Perak tributaries of Kelantan, Terengganu, Kedah,
and Selangor. This led to ethnic clashes with and Perlis, joined by Johor in 1914, came
the Malays, as well as to civil disorders under the system of British Residents,
caused by Chinese criminal gangs. Infighting becoming known as the Unfederated
also raged in various Malay sultanates. The Malay States. Thus, together with the Straits
British feared that another major European Settlements and Sabah, Sarawak, and
power, notably Germany, might exploit Brunei, British consolidation of power over
these weaknesses to gain a foothold on the Malaya was complete by World War I.
Malaysian mainland. Hence, in 1874,
through the Treaty of Pangkor, the first
British Resident was appointed in Perak,
whom the sultan agreed to consult on all
issues except those involving Muslim
religion and Malay custom. However,
increased British control of judicial and
financial affairs sparked unrest amongst the
Perak Malays and led to the murder of the
first Resident, J W W Birch, in 1875. Sultan Abdul Samad Building, Kuala Lumpur
Stamp issued by the BNBC 1895 Mat Salleh resistance

1877 Brunei movement begins in Sabah
renews lease 1909 Unfederated
on Sabah to 1888 British Resident 1896 Creation of the Malay States
Overbeck appointed in Pahang Federated Malay States formed
1880 1890 1900 1910
1881 Alfred Dent sets up 1888 Sarawak and Sabah 1914 Johor joins the
the BNBC become British protectorates Unfederated Malay States
1877 Rubber tree introduced via Brazil, Kew Gardens, and

Ceylon (Sri Lanka) to the Botanic Gardens in Singapore Sir Frank Swettenham, first Resident-
General of the Federated Malay States
ethnic lines also began to grow. The advent

of World War II ensured that colonial life
would never be the same.
World War II
Troops of the Japanese Imperial Army
landed on the east coast of the peninsula in
December 1941. Within 2 months, they had
conquered it, and Singapore and Borneo as
A British rubber planter overseeing Indian workers, Malaysia well. For the next 3 years they would unleash
a particularly ruthless regime. The sook ching
Colonial Life (purification by elimination) massacres in the
Having taken charge of the entire peninsula, first months of Japanese rule involved the
the British turned their energies towards deaths of 40,000–70,000 ethnic Chinese in
developing a productive economy. Penin- Singapore alone. About 75,000 Malaysians,
sular Malaysia emerged in the 20th century mostly Indian Tamils, were recruited to work
as the world’s leading producer of both on the Burma–Thailand “Death” Railway. With
rubber and tin. In Borneo, Sarawak was a malnourishment, appalling working cond-
securely established and relatively itions, and the brutality of the Japanese over-
prosperous territory by the time Charles seers, death rates escalated to 40 percent.
Vyner Brooke took over as Some Malaysians
the third White Rajah in resisted, notably the
1917, while Sabah was guerrilla units of the
profiting from the timber, Malayan Communist
rubber, and tobacco Party (MCP), armed by
industries. Large-scale British saboteurs in the
immigration from underground Force
India and China was 136. At the same time,
encouraged to supply the Japanese troops marching through downtown Singapore to bolster their rule,
workforce for the colonial in December 1941 the Japanese
economy. The Malays were recognized as encouraged radical Malayan nationalists
indigenous people, but were largely to organize paramilitary and political
encouraged to stay in their villages. By the organizations. Hopelessly overstretched
late 1930s, ordinary Malays were less well throughout Asia and the Pacific, Japanese
off than the urban Chinese, and in danger rule had induced economic chaos in the
of becoming a minority in their own Malay peninsula and Borneo by 1944. But it
homeland. The stage had been set for was the dropping of atomic bombs on
decades of racial tensions. Politicization and Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August 1945
elite sentiment for independence along that finally forced Japan to surrender.
Charles Vyner Brooke
1930s Chinese begin to 1941 Japanese invasion

join the Malayan of Malaya and
Communist Party Singapore
1918 1923 1928 1933 1938
1926 Singapore
1917 Charles Vyner Brooke, third and Malay Union
last White Rajah of Sarawak formed HMS Prince of Wales, sunk off
(1917–46) the coast of Terengganu by
Japanese bombers in 1941
Declaration of independence from British rule by Tunku Abdul Rahman in August 1957
The Emergency intelligence supplies. The MCP leaders

In the reoccupation, the first British step was finally fled to Thailand in the late 1950s, and
to establish the Malayan Union in 1946. This by 1960 the government of independent
united all the peninsular states into a central Malaya declared the Emergency over.
administration under British rule and granted
equal citizenship rights to all ethnic groups. Merdeka (Independence)
Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawak were to be Parallel to their campaign against the MRLA,
governed separately as crown colonies. the British pursued talks with anti-communist
The union was strongly opposed by the Malay nationalists, promising independence.
Malay population and led to the formation In 1955, elections were held to determine the
of the first Malay political party, the United government for the new country. This was
Malays National Organization (UMNO). The won by the Alliance Party, formed by the
Malayan Union was subsequently replaced UMNO, the Malayan Chinese Association, and
by the Federation of Malaya, which excluded the Malayan Indian Congress. On August 31,
Singapore, and granted special rights to the 1957, Malaya gained independence, with
Malays. However, the Chinese were dis- Tunku Abdul Rahman as its first prime
satisfied with this development, and in June minister. Sarawak, Sabah, and Singapore
1948, the Malayan Races Liberation Army remained crown colonies, although
(MRLA), the armed wing of the MCP, returned Singapore became self-governing in 1959. In
to the jungle under the leadership of Chin 1961, a new federation uniting the peninsular
Peng to begin an insurgency against the states, Singapore, Sarawak, Sabah, and Brunei,
British. So began the hard-fought Emergency. was proposed. Despite the opposition from
Chin Peng’s war was ultimately doomed. Indonesia and the Philippines, the planned
Few Malays or Indians supported the MCP, union went ahead, and Malaysia was
while the resettlement of 400,000 rural proclaimed on September 16, 1963, but
Chinese cut off the guerrillas from food and without Brunei, which opted out.
Tunku Abdul Rahman signing Federation of

1946 Malayan
Malaya (Independence) Agreement, 1957
Union 1948 State of Emergency
established; declared, which lasts until 1960; 1961 Tunku Abdul Rahman
UMNO set up Federation of Malaya replaces proposes a new Malaysian
the Malayan Union Federation
1943 1948 1953 1958 1963
1945 Japanese 1953 Alliance 1957 Malaya attains 1959 Singapore 1963 Malaysia
surrender; British Party formed independence; granted internal self- established;
reoccupy Borneo, Tunku Abdul government; Lee Brunei opts out
Malaya, and Rahman becomes Kuan Yew is first
Singapore first prime minister prime minister
Malay Royal Regiment troops patrolling the streets of Kuala Lumpur following the May 13, 1969 riots
Konfrontasi However, in 1965, Singapore reluctantly left

Both Indonesia and the Philippines the Malaysian Federation due to continuing
immediately severed diplomatic relations political disagreements and became an
with the new state of Malaysia. Indonesian independent country. Still, the two neighbors
president Sukarno began a policy of remained closely associated. In 1967,
Konfrontasi, or confrontation, involving Malaysia and Singapore joined the Asso-
infiltration and sabotage. Indonesian armed ciation of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN)
troops crossed into Sabah and Sarawak, and and were two of its five original members.
even landed in Peninsular Malaysia and
Singapore. Over the next 4 years the Ethnic and Economic Tensions
Malaysian army, backed by British, New In the late 1960s, Malaysia and Singapore
Zealand, and Australian forces, defeated were still relatively impoverished by the
Indonesian attempts to subvert the new effects of war and also riven with ethnic
federation. Malaysia was thus established as tensions. The departure of Singapore from
a secure, internationally recognized state. the Federation of Malaysia ensured a Malay
Muslim majority within Malaysia, but Malay
politicians and the ethnic Malay population
were still concerned by the economic
power wielded by the Chinese. In 1967, the
National Language Act was passed to
ensure the primacy of the Malay language.
The move was resented by the Chinese.
Ethnic tensions first came to a head in
Singapore, where there was rioting
Inaugural meeting of ASEAN members in August 1967 between the Malays and Chinese in 1964.
1967 Malaysia and 1981 Mahathir Mohamad

1963 Sukarno starts Singapore join ASEAN becomes Malaysia’s fourth
policy of Konfrontasi prime minister
1969 Race riots in Kuala Lumpur
1964 1974 1984
1965 Singapore 1970 Tun Abdul Razak

leaves Malaysia and takes over as Malaysia’s Offshore oil rig in
becomes an prime minister; NEP Sarawak
independent state introduced favoring
the bumiputra
In the 1969 general elections, the Alliance

Party polled less than 50 percent of the
popular vote, but retained its majority in
the parliament. A celebration march by the
opposition parties led to an outbreak of race
riots in Kuala Lumpur on May 13, 1969, when
hundreds of ethnic Chinese were massacred.
The Malaysian government, under Tun
Abdul Razak, who had taken over from Tunku
Abdul Rahman in 1970, was badly shaken.
It responded by introducing the New
Economic Policy (NEP) in 1970, which was
designed to favor the bumiputras (see
pp26–7) and improve their economic
standing in society. At the same time, the
authorities made it clear that no further
racial attacks on ethnic Chinese would be Kuala Lumpur‘s soaring skyline, dominated by the Petronas Towers,
tolerated. The Alliance Party also broadened a symbol of economic prosperity
its coalition to include members of the
opposition and formed the Barisan Nasional However, under Lee Kuan Yew, Prime
(National Front), which continues to be in Minister from 1959 to 1990, it grew and
power today. prospered as a powerhouse of light industry
and high technology. It also became one
Malaysia and Singapore Today of the world’s greatest sea ports.
Over the next 20 years, using a cautious In 2003, Abdullah Ahmad Badawi took
mixture of financial inducements and firm over from Mahathir Mohamad as prime
paternalism, both Malaysia and Singapore minister of Malaysia. He resigned in 2009
remained peaceful. Malaysia prospered due and was succeeded by Mohammad Najib
to world demand for its rubber, palm oil, tea, Abdul Razak. In Singapore, Lee Kuan Yew’s
and tin, and by the end of the 1970s, the successor, Goh Chok Tong, was replaced by
development of light industries and the Yew’s son, Lee Hsien Loong, in 2004. Both
discovery of oil and natural gas reserves in governments have now entered a less
the South China Sea provided an extra authoritarian era, although media and
boost. A period of remarkable economic and freedom of speech are still tightly monitored.
social development in the 1980s and 1990s In 2013 the Barisan Nasional coalition, led by
was overseen by Prime Minister Mahathir Najib Razak, won their 13th victory in a row.
Mohamad, who came to power in 1981. The economies of both countries continue
At its independence in 1965, Singapore to surge ahead, as do standards of living and
seemed to face a bleak economic future. higher education, health, and social services.
2006 Malaysia and Singapore fail to agree on new

Prime Minister bridge project linking the two countries
Abdullah
Ahmad Badawi 2015 Death of Lee Kuan Yew;
over a million Singaporeans
2007 Malaysia celebrates queue to pay their respects in
50 years of independence a week of national mourning
1994 2004 2014 2024
2003 Abdullah Badawi 2004 Lee Hsien 2011 Dr Tan Keng Yam Tony is sworn in
becomes Malaysia’s fifth Loong becomes as seventh president of Singapore
prime minister Singapore’s third
2009 Mohammad Najib Abdul Razak becomes
prime minister
Malaysia’s sixth prime minister
MALAYSIA
REGION BY
REGION
Introducing Malaysia 54–61

Kuala Lumpur 62–91
Northwest Peninsula 92–121
Southern Peninsula 122–137
Eastern and Central
Peninsula 138–155
Sarawak 156–179
Sabah 180–201
54 M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
INTRODUCING MALAYSIA
With its magnificent natural beauty and unique cultural heritage, Malaysia is
a fascinating Southeast Asian destination. A relatively young country that
celebrated 50 years of independence in 2007, it has progressed remarkably
and has emerged as one of the most successful economies in Asia.
Situated at the crossroads of ancient of ministers. The government’s two-tier

maritime trade routes, Malaysia has long parliament consists of a lower house
been a cultural melting pot. The bulk of the with 219 elected representatives and an
population lives on Peninsular Malaysia. upper house with 70 senators. Elections
While about half the country’s 30 million are held every five years. Since
people are of Malay origin, there are independence, the country has been
significant Chinese and Indian minorities, ruled by a multiracial coalition named
as well as many indigenous communities. Barisan Nasional (National Front), of which
The country’s diversity is apparent in its the United Malays National Organization
social customs and festivals, and its many (UMNO) is the largest political party.
cuisines and languages.
Economy
Society and Politics From the early 1970s through the late
Malaysia is a constitutional monarchy, 1990s, Malaysia transformed itself from
based on the political system of its former an economy based on mining and
colonial ruler, Britain. In practice, however, agriculture to one dominated by
there is more power vested in the manufacturing and exports, particularly
executive branch of government than the of electronic components. Palm oil
judiciary. The country is headed nominally also continues to be one of the most
by a supreme ruler, a rotating position that important exports. Other prominent
is held for a five-year term by sultans of contributors to the economy are oil and
nine hereditary Malay sultanates, while the gas production, timber, and tourism. The
government is led by an elected prime country has maintained steady economic
minister, currently Datuk Seri Mohammed growth over the past couple of decades,
Najib Razak, who is assisted by a cabinet fueling rapid development in the major
The port and the stunning Masjid Negeri in Kuantan, Pahang

Semporna Bay in Sabah
I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A 55
A pair of rhinoceros hornbills, the state bird of Sarawak, in the lush Malaysian rain forest
cities. Its main trading partners are the the variety of religions followed here.
USA, China, and Japan, all significant Although Islam is the state religion,
sources of foreign investment. Malaysia’s Buddhism, Hinduism, and Christianity,
economy grew by 6 percent in 2014, one among others, are practiced freely.
of the highest increases in Southeast Asia. Traditional Malay performing arts,
including the fascinating wayang kulit, or
Environment shadow-puppet plays, continue to thrive
Malaysia, like many developing nations, and can be seen during festivals or at
faces its own set of environmental cultural shows. Local pastimes such as
issues, including air and water pollution, kite-flying and top-spinning are still
deforestation, and the depletion of wildlife practiced, particularly on the east coast of
species. Although stretches of the the peninsula. The country has a vibrant
country’s ancient rain forests, and the handicrafts tradition, ranging from
wildlife they shelter, are protected in exquisitely woven textiles to basketware
national parks, intensive logging is chang- and woodcarving. Malaysia is also gaining
ing the face of the country, transforming a healthy contemporary art scene. Artists
jungles into barren hillsides. Fortunately, such as the collage specialist Yee I-Lann
several international bodies, such as WWF, have exhibited in Hong Kong and New York.
the global conservation organization, are
very active in Malaysia and their persistent
campaigning has at least slowed the rate
of environmental degradation. Despite
their efforts, the Sumatran rhinoceros and
the leatherback turtle face extinction.
Culture and Arts

Malaysia’s ethnic mosaic endows it
with an infinitely varied and cosmopolitan
culture, assimilating Malay, Chinese, and
Indian customs, traditions, and beliefs, as
well as those of its indigenous peoples.
The ethnic diversity is also reflected in Puppeteer maneuvering figures during a show
M ALAYSIA THR OUGH

THE YEAR
With its blend of diverse ethnic groups of state-specific festivals are celebrated.
and cultures, Malaysia hosts a range of As many people visit family during
festivals and events throughout the year. major festivals, all forms of transport are
The country’s religious festivals include congested. Many religious festivals are
the Islamic Hari Raya Puasa and Hindu based on the lunar calendar, so dates can
Deepavali. Sporting events, such as Formula vary. Islamic festivals, for example, move
1 racing, and traditional pastimes such as forward by about ten days each year in
dancing and martial arts are also enjoyed. relation to the Gregorian calendar. For
In addition to nationwide events, an array exact dates, check with Tourism Malaysia.
honoring Lord Murugan, in

January to March which thousands of devotees
Seasons vary little in Malaysia, carry kavadis, or steel arches,
with only the early months of attached to their skin by hooks,
the year distinguished by heavy and walk in procession from the
rain on the east coast of Sri Maha Mariamman Temple
Peninsular Malaysia. Still, spirits (see p70) to the Batu Caves (see
are far from dampened by the p96), one of the largest temple
rain and festivals such as the caves in the country.
Chinese New Year are Federal Territory Day (Feb 1),
celebrated with enthusiasm. Kuala Lumpur, Labuan, and
Putrajaya. Malaysia’s three
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb), federal territories put on
nationwide. The streets come parades, firework displays,
alive to see out the old year and and cultural shows.
welcome the new, with dragon World Kite Festival (Feb), Pasir
dances and Chinese opera Gudang, Johor. an annual event Worshipers lighting candles at a church
performances. Debts are paid that attracts kite enthusiasts from during Easter
off, children are given presents around the world.
of money, and mandarin Hari Raya Haji (variable), Malaysian Open Golf
oranges – a symbol of good nationwide. This Islamic festival Championship (Feb),
luck – are eaten. Many shops celebrates the return of pilgrims nationwide. An international
and businesses close for a week. from the Hajj to Mecca with golfing event that takes place
Ponggal (Jan/Feb), nationwide. prayers and animal sacrifices. at the top golf courses in the
A Tamil (southern Indian) This is a public holiday in the country, including the Royal
harvest festival celebrated by states of Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis, Selangor Golf and Country
boiling rice, sugar, and milk until and Terengganu. Club and the Kuala Lumpur
the pot overflows, symbolizing Chap Goh Mei (usually Feb), Golf and Country Club.
prosperity. This is offered to nationwide. The fifteenth day Le Tour de Langkawi (Mar),
gods at Hindu temples. after the start of the Chinese Langkawi to Merdeka Square
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb), New Year is marked by feasts in Kuala Lumpur. Top cyclists
nationwide. A Hindu festival and prayers. from around the world
compete over 10 day-long
stages in Asia’s version of
the Tour de France.
Malaysian Grand Prix (usually
Mar), Selangor. The world’s
fastest Formula 1 drivers
compete at the Sepang
International Circuit.
Easter (Mar/Apr), nationwide.
The biggest ceremonies
are held in Melaka with
candlelit processions at
churches on Good Friday,
which is a public holiday in
Formula 1 cars speed around the track at the Malaysian Grand Prix Sabah and Sarawak.
M A L AY S I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 57
April to June
This is the peak of the festival
calendar especially for the
Dayaks of Sarawak who
celebrate the Gawai festival.
Other highlights include the
Buddhist Vesak.
Pesta Kaul (Apr), Mukah. A

festival of the Melanau fishing
communities to mark the start
of the fishing season. Dare-devil
acts are performed on huge Orang Ulu dancers in vibrant ethnic costumes at the World Harvest Festival
rattan swings.
Labuan International Sea Sabah Fest (May), Sabah. A Gawai (early Jun), across Sarawak.
Challenge (Apr), Pulau Labuan. cultural extravaganza Marking the end of the rice
An international competition incorporating dance, music, harvest, this festival is the
that includes fishing, swimming, fashion, and food. highlight of the year for the
and kayaking events. Colors of Malaysia (May), Dayaks of Sarawak and an
Penang World Music Festival nationwide. A month-long occasion for feasting and
(Apr), Georgetown. Over two celebration of Malaysian dancing. There are many versions
nights this UNESCO World culture, featuring parades, of Gawai, such as Gawai Padi,
Heritage-listed city plays host music, dance, and food. celebrated by the Bidayuh, one
to an annual music festival Miri International Jazz Festival of the Dayak groups. It is an ideal
featuring a colorful assortment (May), Miri. Musicians perform time to visit a longhouse.
of local and international funk, fusion, Latin, and blues. Fiesta San Pedro (Jun), Melaka.
performances. In recent years, Tadau Kaamatan (end of May), The Eurasian community, who
musicians from Spain, Penampang (Sabah). A festival came here during the
Germany, South Africa, and for the Kadazan Dusun and Portuguese occupation in the
India have participated. Murut communities, who 16th century, decorate their
Prophet Muhammad’s celebrate a successful rice crop boats to pay homage to St. Peter.
Birthday (variable), nationwide. by singing, dancing, and Penang International Dragon
Processions and recitations of electing a harvest queen. Boat Festival (Jun/Jul), Penang.
the Koran commemorate the Vesak (May/Jun), nationwide. Long rowing boats race to
birth of the Prophet The most important festival of honor the memory of Chinese
Muhammad. the year for Buddhists, honoring poet Qu Yuan, who drowned
World Harvest Festival (May), the birth, enlightenment, and himself in 278 BC in a protest
Sarawak Cultural Village, located death of the Buddha. against corrupt politics.
near Kuching. A cultural King’s Birthday (1st Sat in Jun), KL International Arts Festival
extravaganza in anticipation of nationwide. There are processions (Jun/Jul), Kuala Lumpur. A show-
the Gawai festival, featuring in Kuala Lumpur to celebrate case for Malaysian art with some
dance and music. the birthday of the king. eye-catching street art.
Spectacular celebrations at the Colors of Malaysia festival

Average Monthly Rainfall (Kuala Lumpur)

MM Inches Rainfall Chart
300 12 Rainfall across the country
is variable and it is difficult
240 to show a national
9
average. The wettest
180
period for the east coast
6
120
of Peninsular Malaysia
and Malaysian Borneo is
3
60 November to March.
The west coast of the
0 0 peninsula sees rain
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from April to October.
musicians from around the

July to September world as well as rarely heard
The focus of festivities indigenous musicians (see p165).
during these months are Merdeka Eve (Aug 30), nation-
Merdeka Eve and National wide. Fireworks displays
Day at the end of August, and cultural performances in
and Malaysia Day in September. major towns and cities herald
Other colorful and unique National Day.
events include the Borneo National Day (Aug 31),
Cultural Festival in Sibu, the nationwide. Parades, music
Sarawak Regatta, and the shows, and competitions are
Mount Kinabalu Climbathon. among the celebrations that
mark the anniversary of the
Sabah International country’s independence.
Folklore Festival (Jul), Kota Fireworks display during National Day Festival of the Hungry Ghosts
Kinabalu. Held at the Sabah celebrations (Aug/Sep), nationwide. This
Cultural Centre, this week- Chinese festival is held to
long celebration of folk Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival appease the spirits of the
dancing draws ethnic groups (Jul to Sep), nationwide. Sub- dead released from purgatory
from around the world to stantial discounts are offered during the seventh lunar
give performances and on goods at shopping malls month. Joss sticks, candles,
hold workshops. and stores. and paper money are burnt
Borneo Cultural Festival (Jul), Kuching Festival (Aug), outside homes and Chinese
Sibu. A week-long celebration Kuching. This celebration of street opera is performed.
of music and dance with Sarawak’s culture comprises Ramadan (variable), nationwide.
participants that include local concerts, exhibitions, theater This is the Muslim holy month
ethnic groups, and visiting per formances, and food fairs, during which Muslims fast in
performers from countries and lasts for a month. daylight hours and eat only after
including China and Indonesia. Rainforest World Music Festival sunset. Street stalls set up
The festival also attracts visitors (Aug), Sarawak Cultural Village, outside mosques in the evening
from Thailand, Brunei, and near Kuching. An annual global offer many Muslim delicacies.
nearby countries. Most events event featuring music work- Hari Raya Puasa (variable),
are held in Sibu’s town square. shops and performances by nationwide. Also known as
Aidilfitri, this Muslim festival
marks the end of Ramadan,
with feasts that feature special
food preparations. Families get
together and pay respect to
their elders, and packets of
money are given to children.
Sarawak Regatta (Sep),
Kuching. An annual regatta
of paddleboat, powerboat,
and canoe competitions
on the Sungai Sarawak between
the various indigenous
people of Sarawak.
Malaysia Day (Sep 16),
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival at Soga department store in Kuala Lumpur nationwide. This national
M A L AY S I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 59
Average Monthly Temperature (Kuala Lumpur)

°C °F
Temperature Chart
30 90
The temperature in
25 80 Malaysia does not vary
much. Hot and humid all
20 70
year round, the temper-
15 60 ature hovers around
10 50 30° C (86° F) during the
day, with a slight drop in
5 40 the evenings. The hill
0 30 stations may get as cool
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec as 15° C (59° F).
holiday celebrates Sarawak and the evening, lanterns are lit

Sabah joining the Malaysian and areas with large Chinese
Federation on this day in 1963. communities hold a colorful
Expect government offices to lantern parade.
be shut and shopping malls and Mount Kinabalu Climbathon
restaurants to be packed. (Oct), Sabah. Most people take
two full days to climb this
massive mountain but the
skilled climbers in this, the
October to December world’s toughest mountain
Due to heavy rain and rough race, take less than three
seas on the east coast, boat hours to complete the climb
travel to small islands is tough. and descend.
Some national parks are also Deepavali (Oct/Nov),
closed. The two important nationwide. The festival of lights
religious festivals during this commemorates Lord Krishna’s
season are the Mooncake victory over Narakasura, the
Festival and Deepavali. triumph of good over evil and
Although there are only a few light over dark. Hindu homes
Christians in Malaysia, Christmas and temples around the Towering Christmas tree at a shopping
is still a much celebrated event. country are decorated with oil center in Kuala Lumpur
lamps to welcome the goddess
Mooncake Festival (variable), of prosperity. Hindus pray for Christmas (Dec 25), nationwide.
nationwide. Also known as the happiness and stability. Largely unmarked in predomin-
Mid-Autumn Festival, this day is Tamu Besar (Nov), Kota Belud. antly Muslim regions, Christmas
celebrated by the Chinese who Held annually at one of Sabah’s is a major commercial event in
exchange and consume biggest markets and tourist the big cities. Midnight Mass is
mooncakes, made of lotus attractions, Tamu Besar features celebrated in churches.
and sesame seeds, to mark the cultural performances and
fall of the Mongol dynasty in handicraft demonstrations. The
China in the 12th century. In highlight, however, is to see Public Holidays
Bajau horsemen, dressed in
New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
colorful traditional costumes.
They ride their bedecked horses Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb)
around town (see p188). Thaipusam (Jan/Feb)
KL International Buskers Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Festival (Dec), Kuala Lumpur. Birthday of the Prophet
For over a week, street Muhammad (variable)
performers from around the Labor Day (May 1)
world, including musicians,
Vesak (May/Jun)
dancers, comedians, jugglers,
and acrobats, put on shows to King’s Birthday (Jun)
demonstrate their talents. Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
Penang Chingay (Dec), Penang. National Day (Aug 31)
The Chingay parade is an Malaysia Day (Sep 16)
attention-grabbing display
Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
which features skilled
Energetic dances at the KL International performers balancing giant flags Christmas (Dec 25)
Buskers Festival measuring up to 12 m (40 ft).
Malaysia at a Glance
Malaysia consists of two geographical regions,
Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo, which
are divided by the South China Sea. A range of
mountains runs down the center of the peninsula,
dividing the developed plains of the west from
the more rural east coast. Malaysian Borneo,
comprising the states of Sarawak and Sabah, is a
land of rain forests and great rivers. Sandwiched
between these two states is the oil-rich
independent Sultanate of Brunei.
The Perhentian Islands (see p148) off the
coast of Terengganu have pristine beaches
and offer excellent swimming and diving
in the clear waters of the South China Sea.
Taman Negara (see

pp144–5), Malaysia’s
largest national park,
contains the peninsula’s
highest peak and an
incredible variety of
birds and wildlife.
Kota Bharu
Cameron Highlands (see Georgetown Kuala Terengganu

pp98–9) is the country’s largest
and most popular hill station, NORTHWEST
with a consistently pleasant PENINSULA EASTERN AND
climate, rolling hills, lush tea (See pp92–121) CENTRAL PENINSULA
plantations, and a distinctively (See pp138–55)
colonial character. Kuantan
KUALA LUMPUR
(See pp62–91)
Seremban
SOUTHERN South China Sea

PENINSULA
(See pp122–37)
SINGAPORE
(See pp202–73)
The Sultan Abdul Samad Building (see

p68) is one of busy Kuala Lumpur’s most Seremban (see p126), the state capital of Negeri
magnificent colonial structures. The city’s Sembilan, is the center of Minangkabau culture in
other attractions include interesting Malaysia. Striking buildings with roofs shaped like
museums, pleasant gardens, and lively buffalo horns, such as the State Museum, can be
local markets. seen throughout town.
I N T R O D U C I N G M A L AY S I A 61
Pulau Sipadan (see pp200–201), off the east

coast of Sabah, is surrounded by a coral reef and
is rated among the world’s top diving destinations.
Brunei’s Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Turtle Island National Park (see
Mosque, an icon for the tiny Sultanate of p196) is a prime spot for viewing
Brunei (see pp178–9), stands on an island in an the green and hawksbill turtles
artificial lagoon in the heart of the capital city that come ashore to nest.
of Bandar Seri Begawan.
Kota Kinabalu
Tomanggong
Bandar Seri SABAH
Begawan (See pp180–201)
Kunak
Miri
BRUNEI
0 km 150
0 miles 150
Bintulu
SARAWAK Mulu National Park (see

(See pp156–79) pp176–7) has picturesque
walking trails in a forested
Saratok landscape rich in wildlife.
Kuching
Engkilili
Kuching (see pp160–63), the

historic capital of Sarawak, is
set on the banks of the
Sungai Sarawak.
Lambir Hills National Park

(see p175) protects the forested
areas around Lambir Hills.
Visited most often for its scenic
water falls, the park reflects the
natural heritage of Sarawak, a
state that owes its considerable
global significance to its
many spectacular and
species-rich forests.
M A L AY S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 63
KUALA LUMPUR
The capital of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, is the nation’s biggest city
with a population of 1.6 million people. A relatively young city, it
has evolved from a humble town in the 1850s to the financial and
commercial capital and principal gateway of the country. A vision of
modernity with its skyscrapers and the best restaurants and nightlife
in the country, Kuala Lumpur also possesses a rich cultural heritage
that is revealed in its colonial architecture, temples, and mosques.
Kuala Lumpur sits in the Klang Valley, enclaves that remain even today. In 1999,
and its name, which means muddy Putrajaya became the new administrative
confluence in Malay, is derived from its capital, but Kuala Lumpur remains the
location at the point where the Klang and country’s financial and commercial center.
Gombak rivers meet. Established here in Some of the country’s rich history
1857, the city began as a ramshackle can be seen in the 19th-century
trading post for the burgeoning tin architecture of the old colonial district
industry, and was constantly plagued by and in neighboring Chinatown, with its
floods, fires, and civil wars. Chinese miners incense-filled temples and chatter-filled
and traders formed a large part of its early kedai kopi, or coffee shops. Little India,
population, governed by a Kapitan China, Kampung Baru, and Chow Kit are the best
or headman. The most famous of them places to find Indian, Malay, and Chinese
was Yap Ah Loy (see p71), who was cuisines. A closer look reveals that the city
responsible for the city’s early growth. blends the old with the new. Flanked by
A building boom began when the glitzy shops and trendy bars, the Golden
British took control in the 1880s, and in Triangle is the hub of the city’s nightlife,
1896 Kuala Lumpur was made the capital while the Petronas Towers dominate the
of the newly formed Federated Malay business district of KLCC. The Perdana
States. A multiracial population began Botanical Gardens are a perfect escape
to settle here, congregating in ethnic from the urban clutter.
Entrance to Chan See Shu Yuen Temple in Kuala Lumpur

The stunning Petronas Towers and, below them, the upscale KLCC mall
Exploring Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur’s old colonial core is centered on Merdeka Square,
which is ringed with elegant colonial buildings. To the southwest are
the tranquil Perdana Botanical Gardens. Across the river, to the east,
Titiwangsa
ANG
Chinatown, Little India, Chow Kit, and Kampung Baru boast some of Pekeliling
Bus Station
PAH
the best street markets. To the west is the Putra World Trade RU
E
M
HA
Center (PWTC), one of the city’s convention and exhibition M
A
JA
LA
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centers. Farther northeast is the modern Kuala Lumpur A
LA IP
O
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City Center (KLCC) dominated by the Petronas Towers.
The Golden Triangle is the business and entertainment JA AN CHOW K
Chow Kit
LA JAL
SEI N
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hub of the capital. Close by is the soaring Menara KL N
KU
JLN. HAJI HUS

C PWTC
at the foot of which is the Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve,
HI
LA UT
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a patch of rain forest in the center of the city. JLN. RAJA ALANG
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L
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l Aquaria KLCC
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Wangi
w Kuala Lumpur Railway Station n FRIM Bandaraya
LITTLE
u Carcosa Seri Negara INDIA
JA LA N
IN D IA
G
Towns and Cities
G
K U CH IN
a Little India
N
PA
m Shah Alam
JI D
AM
s Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman
AS
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M
JA
JA LA N
j Petronas Towers
N
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/ Putrajaya JA
z Malaysian Tourism Information
EN Masjid
Complex IM
RL Jamek
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Museums and Galleries
MA AM
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Plaza
JLN . H .
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TASIK
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4 National Music Museum

PET A L IN
PERDANA
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Pasar
PE R
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N.
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ik
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rda
Kuala Lumpur BALU N.

Railway Station J
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D
AM H N ajalela
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Places of Worship A
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Shopping and Markets A

N BE L L
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R A K I RI
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TAMAN
Islands DESA SEPUTEH
. Pulau Ketam

KUALA LUMPUR 65
Lake
Titi wangs a
Beyond Kuala Lumpur

TITIWANGSA 54
Klang Dam
Bu
loh Gombak
H
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Getting Around
N
L
PA Exploring the city on foot is not advisable

JA
AM KLCC
LA
N
LA
PUBLIC
PARK due to the heat, heavy traffic, air pollution, and
JA
N
Lake
KUALA LUMPUR a lack of sidewalks. The best option is to use
TU
L EE Symphony
Bukit
CITY CENTER
JA
M
the efficient public transport system. Stesen
N
Nanas RA
LA
J AL
(KLCC)
RA
N
Sentral (KL Sentral Station) is the hub of the

A
PI
N
N
P
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city’s rail network, which consists of KTM,

N
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K
AN
LT JALA N KIA PENG

THE A
the national railroad system; Light Rail
JAL
GOLDEN
OR
J L N. Raja
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Transport (LRT); the monorail; and KLIA
TRIANGLE
LA
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JLN. S
KI
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A
PE
NG
trains to and from the international airport.
C CONL AY
AJA KTM Komuter trains are useful for out-of-
AIL
R
BUKIT town destinations such as Shah Alam,
BINTANG C N BUKIT BI
NT Klang, and Seremban to the south. KLIA
BU HAN
KIT G LA AN
G
B I N K AT JA
TA
N
Ekspres (KLIA Express) runs direct to
G
A
LO
R
KLIA airport and to the low-cost terminal
JALA N Bukit
N P
U JA
LA
Bintang B
I
at KLIA2. LRT and the monorail cover the
DU SUNGAI IM
WANG PLAZA city with many stops, as do Rapid KL buses,
AN
Imbi JAL which offer an unlimited day travel ticket.
Pudu Sentral and Terminal Bersepadu Selatan
HA
N
G
Hang H are the two main bus stations.
JE Tuah A
TU
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HA
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0 miles 0.5
JAL
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Key
Major sight
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
The beautifully lit Thean Hou Temple at dusk

Street-by-Street: Merdeka
Square
Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s colonial district,
Dataran Merdeka, or Independence Square, is a vast
rectangular grassy field that once hosted cricket matches and
parades. Surrounded by the mock-Tudor Royal Selangor Club,
the National Music Museum, St. Mary’s Cathedral, and the
Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the square offers a rare glimpse
into the city’s past. The venue for many national events, it was Pitcher Plant Fountain
Standing in a small garden north
here that the Union Flag was finally lowered on August 31, of the square, this unique water
1957, when independent Malaysia was born. Today, the feature is styled as a series of
Malaysian flag flies at the southern end of the square. pitcher plants.
JALAN R A JA
PItcher plant
fountain
St. Mary’s Cathedral

Built in the English Gothic style by
A C Norman, this whitewashed cathedral
is home to an exceptional English pipe
organ, installed in 1895.
JA
LA
N
RA
JA
0 meters 50
0 yards 50
3 . Royal Selangor Club Key
Affectionately known as The Spotted Dog and once
Suggested route
the focus of colonial life in Kuala Lumpur, this grand
mock-Tudor edifice is the city’s most prestigious
private club.
1 . Sultan Abdul
Samad Building
This flamboyant Moorish-
style building dates from
1897. Dominating the eastern
side of Merdeka Square, it
now houses a division of the
Malaysian High Court.
KUALA LUMPUR 67
Locator Map
2 Masjid Jamek
Built in 1909 in stately Mughal style, the Masjid
Jamek, or Friday Mosque, is the oldest surviving
mosque in the capital. It stands at the
confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers,
where the city’s first arrivals settled in the 1850s.
JL 6 Central Market
N
.
Once the city’s main fresh produce
M market, the 1930s Art Deco building
A
H of the Central Market is now
K
A
M a shopping mall with Indian,
A
H Straits Chinese, and Malay ethnic
PE
R arts and craft shops.
SE
K
U
TU
A
N
R
SA Chinatown
PA
H R
BU SA
LE BE
JA
LA
N
RA
JA
National Music National Textile

Museum Museum
Kuala Lumpur
Memorial Library
5 . Kuala Lumpur City Gallery

Housed in a heritage building that
dates to 1899, this gallery has displays
The Flagpole on Kuala Lumpur’s past, present,
The 328-ft (100-m) high free-standing flagpole and future, including a huge model
is believed to be the tallest in the world. The of the city complete with a sound
Malaysian flag is always flying here. and light show.
The Royal Selangor Club, once the focus of colonial life
1 Sultan Abdul elegantly arched windows, of the city. The main prayer
Samad Building cupolas, an imposing porch, hall is open only to Muslims.
and a soaring 133-ft (41-m) Visitors to the mosque must
Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. ' Masjid clock tower, flanked by two be dressed appropriately with
Jamek. @ B101, B109. smaller towers crowned with arms and legs covered, and
A magnificent Moorish edifice gleaming copper domes. Today, women must cover their heads.
presiding over the eastern flank it houses the commercial divi- Gowns are supplied free of
of Merdeka Square, the Sultan sion of Malaysia’s High Court charge and shoes must be
Abdul Samad Building was and although it is not open to removed before entering.
built in 1897 to serve as the the public (apart from a very
headquarters of colonial small musuem that is of limited
administration and named in interest to the visitor), the 3 Royal Selangor
honor of the ruler of Selangor striking façade of the building Club
at the time. Designed by makes it one of the capital’s Merdeka Square. Map 4 E2. Tel (03)
A C Norman, a British architect most photographed landmarks. 2692-7166. ' Masjid Jamek. @
who also designed the nearby B101, B109. ∑ rscweb.org.my
St. Mary’s Cathedral, the
building is made of red brick 2 Masjid Jamek Established in 1884, the Royal
and white stone and draws Off Jalan Tun Perak. Map 4 E2. '
Selangor Club was at the
upon Mughal, Egyptian, and Masjid Jamek. @ B111. Open center of colonial social life in
traditional Islamic styles. Its 8:30am–12:20pm & 2:30–4pm daily. Kuala Lumpur. Expatriates and
architectural features include Closed 11am–2:30pm Fri. 7 officials gathered here to relax,
play billiards, and watch cricket
Standing at the confluence of on the padang, now a part of
the Klang and Gombak rivers, Merdeka Square (see pp66–7).
the site where Kuala Lumpur The club also hosted traveling
was founded, the beautiful plays and musicals. In 1970,
Masjid Jamek is the city’s oldest the original building was
mosque. Masjid Jamek, which destroyed by a fire, which was
means Friday Mosque, was built soon followed by a flood. The
in 1909 by architect A B Hubbock, present black and white mock-
who was responsible for many Tudor building, an authentic
of the country’s colonial city- reproduction of the old club,
scapes. The red brick and marble was built in 1980. Still referred
building, with three large onion- to as The Spotted Dog, the
shaped domes, two minarets, club remains the preserve of
and arched colonnades, was the city’s elite and is open
inspired by Mughal architecture. only to members. Theories
Surrounded by palm groves, about the origin of its nickname
and with unrivaled views down- include one tracing it to
Sultan Abdul Samad Building with its grand stream, the mosque forms a a Dalmatian that belonged
clock tower tranquil haven in the middle to a former member.
KUALA LUMPUR 69
4 National Music
Museum
29 Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. ' Masjid
Jamek. @ B101, B109. Open 10am–
4pm Tue–Sat.
Originally built in 1891 to house
the city’s first bank, this grand
Mughal-style building at the
southern end of Merdeka
Square was for many years the
home of the National History
Museum, whose collection has
now been merged with that of
the National Museum (see p72).
Since 2015 the building has
housed the country’s main The imposing façade of the National Music Museum
music museum. Traditional
instruments on display include tram that will take you to local reasonable deals. There are a
giant rebana drums, kompangs, sights, and there are also horse number of other outlets that
which are similar to tambourines, and cart rides around the square. sell an eclectic assortment
and the flute-like sape used by of goods ranging from guitars
the Orang Ulu community. to ladies’ wigs.
6 Central Market Upstairs, there is a good
food court with separate
Jalan Hang Kasturi. Map 4 E2.
5 Kuala Lumpur counters offering dishes from
Tel 1300-22-8688. ' Pasar
Seni. @ B101, B110, B112.
various Malaysian states. A
City Gallery Open 10am– 10pm daily. 7 0 few restaurants are scattered
27 Jalan Raja. Map 4 E2. Tel (03) 2698- ∑ centralmarket.com.my on both floors. The Central
3333. ' Masjid Jamek. @ B101, Market is also a venue for free
B109. Open 9am–6:30pm daily. & Housed in a powder-blue Art cultural performances.
8 = ∑ klcitygallery.com Deco building dating from the
1930s, the Central Market was
Next door to the Music Museum formerly the city’s main fresh- 7 Sze Ya Temple
is another fine old building. produce market. It was rescued Lebuh Pudu. Map 4 F3. Tel (03) 2078-
Formerly the Government from dereliction and reopened 9052. ' Pasar Seni. @ B110, B111.
Printing Office and then the as a modern shopping complex Open 7am–5pm daily.
National Library, now it houses in the 1980s.
an exhibition dedicated to the Also known as the Cultural Located halfway down a narrow
history of Kuala Lumpur. The Bazaar, the building has arts alley off Lebuh Pudu, the small
highlight is a massive model and crafts shops that sell an Sze Ya Temple is built at an
of the city that includes new array of products including awkward angle to the road, a
towers currently under woodcarvings, batik, pottery, position said to have been
construction that will come to paintings, and traditional kites. decided by the principles of
dominate the skyline. Stopping Prices tend to be high and feng shui. The oldest Taoist
outside the gallery is a tourist haggling is necessary to get temple in Kuala Lumpur, it was
founded in 1864 by Yap Ah Loy,
the third Kapitan China (see
p71), who also funded its
construction. Inside the temple,
a statue of Loy is installed left of
the main altar, while images of
the patron deities Si Sze Ya and
Sin Sze Ya occupy the back wall.
The interior is filled with
elaborate carvings and the
smell of burning incense. The
temple entrance is guarded by
statues of fierce lions, a
common feature in Chinese and
Taoist temples, accompanied by
statues of storks. For an extra
charge visitors can have their
Ornate interior of the Sze Ya Temple, one of the oldest in the capital fortunes told inside the temple.
on Jalan Tun HS Lee, a major

thoroughfare, is the city’s
principal Hindu temple,
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple.
9 Jalan Petaling
Market
Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F3. ' Pasar
Seni. @ B110. Open 10am–11pm.
The scene of the capital’s

most famous and lively street
Gateway to Jalan Petaling in Chinatown market, Jalan Petaling is a
covered string of stalls
8 Chinatown specializing in fake designer
Map 4 F3. ' Pasar Seni. 
goods. Watches, clothes,
Maharajalela. @ B102, B110. _ wallets, handbags, and a
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). profusion of pirated CDs Colorful gopuram of Sri Maha
and DVDs are all sold openly. Mariamman Temple
Kuala Lumpur’s relatively small There are few fixed prices,
but vibrant Chinatown is and with initial offers often 0 Sri Maha
roughly bordered by Jalan set unreasonably high, buyers Mariamman Temple
Hang Kasturi to the west and are expected to haggle.
Jalan Sultan to the east, with Interspersed with the stalls are 163 Jalan Tun HS Lee. Map 4 F3.
Masjid Jamek and the Chan See a few shops that sell an assort- Tel (03) 2078-3467. ' Pasar Seni.
@ B110. Open 6am–9pm daily.
Shu Yuen Temple marking its ment of other goods such as
_ Thaipusam (Jan/Feb).
northern and southern limits a variety of dried meats and
respectively. The area is a maze traditional medicines. At the Established in 1873 as the
of narrow streets and alleyways, northern end is a traditional private shrine of a Tamil family
dotted with small Chinese wet market, full of interesting from southern India, Sri Maha
temples and lined with old sights and smells. Mariamman Temple was rebuilt
shophouses, medicine stores, Jalan Petaling is just a normal on its present site in 1885.
and traditional family-run kedai shop-lined street in Chinatown Today, it is Kuala Lumpur’s main
kopi, or coffee shops, where until around 4 or 5pm every Hindu temple. The building is
locals gather to socialize. day, when the area is closed off said to be laid out in the form of
At the heart of Chinatown to traffic and transformed into a a reclining human body, with
is Jalan Petaling, with its pasar malam, or night market. the head pointing to the west,
bustling covered market and Many of the daytime stalls pack and the feet to the east. The feet
crowded cafés. Numerous up and are replaced by food are represented by a five-tiered
modern shops and chain stores stalls that sell a tempting array gopuram, or entrance gate,
add a contemporary touch to of Indian, Malay, and Chinese which is decorated with
this ethnic enclave. Chinatown delicacies. Local souvenirs are intricately carved statues of
is also home to much of the also available. Both the day and various Hindu deities. During an
city’s budget accommodation. night markets attract large extensive renovation of the
The area, however, is not crowds and visitors should be temple in the 1960s, gold and
exclusively Chinese. Located careful of their belongings. precious stones as well as
Spanish and Italian tiles were
added to the gopuram.
Inside the temple are several
altars displaying images of
Hindu gods. The temple also
houses the ornate silver chariot
used in a procession during the
fascinating annual Thaipusam
festival (see p35). The chariot is
brought out from the temple’s
vault during the celebration,
when up to a million devotees
converge here and make their
way up to the Hindu shrine at
Batu Caves (see p96). Visitors
must remove their shoes before
Traditional tea shop at the Jalan Petaling street market entering the temple.
KUALA LUMPUR 71
q Chan See Shu

Yuen Temple
172 Jalan Petaling. Map 4 F4.
Tel (03) 2078-1461. ' Pasar Seni.
 Maharajalela. @ B110.
Open 8am–5pm daily.
Built between 1897 and 1906,

Chan See Shu Yuen Temple is
said to be one of the finest
examples of southern Chinese
architecture in Malaysia. It feat-
ures an elaborate pottery-tiled
roof, undulating gables, and
superbly sculpted green- and
blue-glazed ceramic friezes
depicting mythological scenes
on the façade. Decorating the
edges of the temple are blue
ceramic vases. On either side of Detail of friezes carved on the façade of the Chan See Shu Yuen Temple
the main entrance are shrines to
the female and male guardians w Kuala Lumpur replace an attap, or thatched
of the doorway, with incense Railway Station shed, which had served as the
burning continually before them. railroad terminal since 1886.
The temple is essentially a Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin. Map 4 E4. For 90 years it was the city’s
@ B109. 7 - =
clan association, representing main intercity rail terminal, until
families bearing the related Among the best examples of it was replaced in 2001 by the
names of Chan, Chen, or Tan, colonial architecture in Malaysia, state-of-the-art KL Sentral
and is dedicated to the family the ornate Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, a few streets south. Now
ancestors. Enshrined at the Station is a majestic, gleaming only KTM Komuter trains pass
central altar of the temple are white building with Moorish through this historic station.
images of the clan founders, arches, balustrades, minarets, Opposite the station is the
Chan Siow Ling, Chan Xin Xi, and cupolas. Completed in 1911, gleaming white Hotel Majestic
and Chan Zai Tian, while above it was designed by the British (see p278). Built in the 1930s, it
the altar, to the right and left, architect A B Hubbock, who is quickly became the city's most
are a series of black and white also known for the striking glamorous place to stay. The
photographs of deceased Masjid Jamek (see p68). Beneath building fell into disrepair until
clan members. Framing the the Islamic exterior, the building it reopened in 2012 as a
central shrine are gilded was constructed according to hotel once more, having been
wooden panels painted with specifications for railroad stations meticulously restored. You can
scenes of warriors battling in England and included an iron enjoy afternoon tea in the
lions and mythical creatures. roof capable of withstanding up splendid Orchid Room or have a
Devotees flock here during to 3 ft (1 m) of snow. The cocktail in the gentlemen’s
Buddhist festivals. concrete structure was built to clubrooms, the Smoke House.
Kapitan China
The office of Kapitan China, or headman of the Chinese community
of Kuala Lumpur, was instituted in 1858 by Rajah Abdullah, Chief of
Selangor state, as a way of imposing order on
the fractious Chinese immigrants and their
secret societies. In 1869, Yap Ah Loy, a fierce
and ambitious immigrant from southern
China, became the third Kapitan China. He
soon found himself at the center of a bloody
civil war between different Chinese groups
and local Malays, but a major victory led by
him in Kuala Lumpur in 1873, along with the
arrival of the first British Resident in 1874 (see
p47), put an end to the fighting. He remained
headman until his death in 1885. Also credited
with establishing the city as a major economic
powerhouse, Yap Ah Loy is considered the
Kapitan China Yap Ah Loy founding father of modern Kuala Lumpur. The magnificent edifice of the Kuala
Lumpur Railway Station
provide an introduction to
Malaysia’s ethnography and
natural history. Gallery A on
the first floor covers early
history, while Gallery B
describes the Malay Kingdoms
and trade routes. Upstairs,
Gallery C details the country’s
colonial history and showcases
some fascinating photographs
and dioramas. Gallery D
recounts Malaysia’s battle for
independence and other
recent history with exhibits
such as the pen used to sign
The striking 18-pointed roof of Masjid Negara, the national mosque the independence agreement.
Outside, a collection of vehicles
e Masjid Negara r Islamic Arts includes trishaws, cars, and
Jalan Perdana. Map 4 D3. Museum even steam trains. A small
Tel (03) 2693-7784. £ KL Railway KLTA Tourist Information
See pp74–5. Center is located within the
Station. ' Pasar Seni. @ B109.
Open 9am–noon, 3–4pm and 5:30– museum grounds.
6:30pm daily (pm only on Fri).
t National Museum
Built in 1965, Masjid Negara is y Perdana
Jalan Damansara. Map 3 C4. Tel (03)
Malaysia’s national mosque. 2282-6255. £ KL Sentral, then a short Botanical Gardens
Set in sprawling gardens that walk. ' KL Sentral, then a short walk.
contain pools and fountains, Jalan Perdana. Map 3 B3. £ KL
@ B109. Open 9am–6pm daily.
it is a vast modern building Railway Station, then a short walk. '
& 7 - = ∑ muziumnegara.
KL Sentral, then a short walk. @ B115.
with room for up to 15,000 gov.my KLTA Tourist Information
Open 7am–8pm daily. 7 8- =
worshipers. The main prayer Center: Tel (03) 2287-1830. ∑ klbotanical garden.gov.my
hall is open only to Muslims. KL Bird Park: Tel (03) 2272-1010. Open
The hall is covered with a Opened in 1963, the National 9am–6pm daily. & Bird feeding and
distinctive dome in the shape Museum, or Muzium Negara, is shows: check website for times.
of a stylized 18-point star, built on the site of the old ∑ klbirdpark.com Butterfly Park:
representing the 13 states Selangor Museum which Tel (03) 2693- 4799. Open
of Malaysia and the five pillars was destroyed by Allied 9am–6pm daily. & National
of Islam. Towering over the bombing during World Planetarium: Tel (03) 2273-
mosque is a slender 240-ft (73-m) War II. It is housed in a 4303. Open 9am–6pm Tue–
high minaret. Visiting non- reproduction of a Sun. & ∑ angkasa.gov.my
Muslims are welcome to explore traditional Malay palace Lying on the western
the rest of the complex but must and its façade is adorned edge of the city center are
be appropriately dressed; with murals depicting the Perdana Botanical
headscarves are mandatory for scenes from the Chinese ceramic vase at Gardens, (Taman Tasik
women. Shoes must be removed nation’s history. Inside, the National Museum Perdana in Malay). This
before entering the building. four themed galleries is a beautiful expanse
of greenery laid out in the late
19th century as a tranquil resi-
dential area for the governing
British elite. Today, it is the city’s
biggest and most popular park,
with a large lake at its center
where boats can be hired, and
plenty of walking trails.
Within the gardens are a
number of other attractions,
the highlight of which is the
KL Bird Park. Said to be the
world’s largest walk-in free-
flight aviary, the park houses
around 3,000 tropical birds
including flamingos, hornbills,
and parrots. There is also a
A gallery at the Muzium Negara, or National Museum Butterfly Park which is home
KUALA LUMPUR 73
to over 6,000 butterflies of at i Thean Hou

least 120 different species. Close Temple
by is the Orchid Garden, which
showcases over 800 species of 62 Persiaran Indah, off Jalan Syed Putra.
Malay orchids, which are for sale Tel (03) 2274-7088.  from KL Sentral.
Open 8am–10pm; 6am–midnight
during the weekend. On the
during Chinese New Year. - = _
southern edge is the National
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb).
Planetarium, which stages
various shows and screens IMAX Perched on a hill southwest of
movies. The 50-ft (15-m) high the city center, the Thean Hou
bronze National Monument Temple is a striking three-tier
which commemorates the Chinese temple. Built in the
defeat of the Communist insur- 1980s, this is one of the biggest
gency dominates the northern Chinese temples in Malaysia. It
end of the park. It was created is dedicated to Thean Hou, or
in 1966 by Felix de Weldon, who Grand hallway of Carcosa Seri Negara, a heavenly mother, the patron
was best known for the Iwo luxury hotel deity of sailors and fishermen.
Jima monument in Washington, An image of the goddess, also
DC. Among the fine colonial formerly known as The House known as Ma Zu, is enshrined in
mansions built here is Carcosa on the Hill, was constructed as a the main hall, flanked by statues
Seri Negara, which presides home for Sir Frank Swettenham, of Sui Wei, goddess of the
over the western boundary of the first British Resident-General waterfront, and Kuan Yin,
the gardens. Smaller museums of the Federation of Malay goddess of mercy. Statues of
around the park are dedicated States (see p47), a function it the Laughing Buddha and other
to the police, civil service, continued to serve for sub- Buddhist and Taoist images are
banking, and former political sequent British governors. The also kept here.
leaders. There is a popular food second building, Seri Negara, The temple has a series of
court on Jalan Cenderasari. earlier known as the King’s traditional Chinese-style roofs
House, was the official home decorated with golden dragons,
of the Governor of the Straits phoenix, and a canopy of red
u Carcosa Seri Settlements. After indepen- paper lanterns. Built on four
Negara dence and until 1987, Carcosa levels, it has food outlets and
Lake Gardens. Map 3 B3. Tel (03)
was the official residence of shops on the ground level,
2295-0888. £ KL Railway Station, the British High Commissioner while the main shrine is on the
then taxi. ' KL Sentral, then taxi. 7 while Seri Negara functioned as third floor. The temple also
0 - ∑ shr.my a state guesthouse for visiting serves as a community center,
foreign dignitaries. Today, the and a hall on the second level
This exquisite pair of colonial two buildings together form forms the venue for social
mansions set in their own one of Kuala Lumpur’s finest gatherings such as weddings.
grounds on the edge of the boutique hotels, and contain Outside the building stand
Perdana Botanical Gardens were two award-winning restaurants twelve statues, which represent
built between 1896 and 1904. including the elegant, colonial the twelve animals of the
The first building, Carcosa, Drawing Room. Chinese zodiac.
The extravagant Thean Hou Temple, with a series of tiled, Chinese-style roofs
r Islamic Arts Museum

Situated on the eastern edge of the Perdana Botanical
Gardens (see p72), the Islamic Arts Museum houses fascinating
exhibits from the Muslim world. Opened in 1998, the museum
has the largest collection of its kind in Southeast Asia with
over 7,000 artifacts. The building itself is an impressive
modern construction topped by turquoise domes, with
Iranian tilework on columns at the entrance. Inside, five
elegant domes created by Uzbek craftsmen decorate the
ceilings. The emphasis of the exhibits here is on Asian arts
in addition to those from Persia and the Middle East.
The magnificent dome at the Inverted

Dome Pavilion
The state-of-the-art auditorium
seats up to 250 people and is used
for seminars and lectures.
The Inverted Dome Pavilion is an

airy exhibition hall with its unique
dome executed in white and gold,
bearing extracts from the Koran.
The Architecture Gallery Ground

The main focus of this gallery is the floor Fountain
collection of scale models of mosques, garden
including the Dome of the Rock, Taj
Mahal, and the Al-Haram Mosque.
Lower ground
floor
Preview
room
Woodwork Gallery
Located on Level 2,
the gallery exhibits Main entrance
elaborately crafted Briefing hall
wooden artifacts often
embellished with ivory Children’s library
and mother-of-pearl.
The Education Department
conducts workshops on art and
activities for children.
Gallery Guide
The permanent displays begin on Level 1 with the Architecture Gallery,
which has detailed scale models of mosques. Nearby is the Manuscript
Gallery, a reconstructed Ottoman Room, and galleries dedicated to China,
India, and Malaysia. Level 2 has the Jewelry, Arms and Armor, Coin and
Seal, Metalwork, Woodwork, Ceramics, and Textile galleries. On the ground
and lower ground floors are two galleries for temporary exhibitions. The
non-exhibition area has facilities for research and education.

KUALA LUMPUR 75
Qur’an and
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Manuscript Gallery
This gallery features
handwritten Korans,
Jalan Lembah Perdana.
Sultans’ decrees,
Map 4 D3. Tel (03) 2274-2020.
miniature paintings,
Open 10am–6pm daily. & 8
and scholarly works
0 - = ∑ iamm.org.my
on botany and
astronomy. Transport
£ Kuala Lumpur Railway Station.
. Turkish Iznik Tiles

The Coin and Seal Gallery displays These glazed tiles with
Islamic coins and seals, noted for stylized trees, fruits, and
their intricate calligraphy. foliage in vibrant hues
were first produced in the
Library Turkish city of Iznik from
the 15th to 17th centuries.
Level 2
Level 1
Main dome and

viewing terrace
. Jewelry Gallery
Ornaments from the
Arab world are housed
here, including Iranian
gold anklets and a
19th-century gold
The Architecture and ruby necklace
Gallery from Mughal India.
The China Gallery

displays Chinese Key
manuscripts, a Koran, and Jewelry Gallery
blue and white porcelain
with Arabic script. Arms and Armor Gallery
Textile Gallery
Woodwork Gallery
Coin and Seal Gallery
. Standard Chartered Metalwork Gallery
Ottoman Room Ceramics and Glassware Gallery
This room once Architecture Gallery
belonged to a lavish
house built in Syria Qur’an and Manuscript Gallery
in 1820 and has now India Gallery
been restored to its China Gallery
original appearance.
Malay World Gallery
It is spectacularly
decorated with painted Temporary exhibitions
wood paneling. Non-exhibition space
o Jalan Alor s Jalan Tuanku

Jalan Alor. Map 5 C2. ' Bukit Abdul Rahman
Bintang. 7 Map 1 B3. ' Bandaraya. @ B101,
The night market at Jalan Alor, B109. Coliseum Cinema: 96 Jalan
Tuanku Abdul Rahman.
near the neon-lit nightlife of
Tel (03) 2692-5995.
Bukit Bintang, is now a popular
spot with foodies. Hungry Named for the first king of
diners perch on rickety stools independent Malaysia, and
at stalls selling such delights as commonly known as Jalan TAR,
char siew (barbecued pork) and Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman is
steaming plates of chili-fried one of the busiest roads in Kuala
squid. Stalls to look out for Lumpur and is constantly
include Jalan Alor Nasi Lemak, choked with traffic. Stretching
at the road’s junction with north from Merdeka Square to
Changkat Bukit Bintang, where Little India, it is one of the city’s
beef rendang is a specialty, and most popular traditional
the Wong Ah Wah chicken stall shopping destinations, parti-
at the end of the road. Vibrant silk cloth and garments on sale at cularly known for silk shops
a Little India stall such as the Globe Silk Store
(see p306) as well as the small,
p Masjid India flowers, and spices. There are bazaar-style carpet shops clus-
Jalan Masjid India. Map 4 F1. '
also a number of hawker stalls tered around its southern end.
Masjid Jamek. @ B109. 7 that sell a variety of delicious The Japanese department store
and traditional Indian snacks Sogo is also on this road.
Originally built as a modest such as pakoras and samosas. Despite a lot of modern
wooden structure in 1863, At the end of Jalan Masjid development, Jalan TAR has
Masjid India has been rebuilt India is Lorong Bunus, which retained much of its historic
and upgraded over the years. marks the northern limit of architecture, revealed in many
The present building was com- Little India. It leads to Lorong of the striking 19th- and early
pleted in 1966, and designed in Tuanku Abdul Rahman, a 20th-century façades that still
southern Indian style, with narrow lane that is the venue exist above the gaudy shop
onion-domed cupolas and of another of the capital’s pop- signs. Among the most
elegant arched windows. The ular pasar malams, or night interesting and significant of
three-story mosque is the main markets, on Saturdays. An these structures is the Coliseum
place of worship for Kuala assortment of Indian goods Cinema. Barring a few years
Lumpur’s Indian Muslims. It can are sold here, including house - during World War II, the cinema
accommodate up to 3,500 hold items and brassware, and has been in business since
devotees, with separate floors it is also one of the best places 1921, making it Kuala Lumpur’s
for men and women. in the city to sample authentic oldest running movie hall.
Indian street food. During the These days, it screens Hindi and
day, artisans, including garland southern Indian Tamil films.
a Little India makers, can be seen at work Visitors are free to explore the
Jalan Masjid India and environs.
all along the street. building. Next door to the
Map 1 B5. ' Masjid Jamek,
Bandaraya. @ B101 to Jalan Tuanku
Abdul Rahman. _ Deepavali (Oct).
Although tiny in comparison

with the Indian enclaves of
Singapore or even Georgetown
in Penang, Kuala Lumpur’s
Little India is equally lively and
colorful, steeped in the history
and culture of the capital’s
Indian community.
Jalan Masjid India is the main
street of this ethnic quarter,
which takes its name from
Masjid India. Rows of shops
and stalls line the street, and
are crammed with Indian
merchandise such as saris, silk
cloth and other fabric, jewelry, Façade of the Coliseum Cinema, which dates back to the colonial era
KUALA LUMPUR 77
cinema, and built around the

same time, the Coliseum Café
was once the favorite haunt of
colonial planters and tin miners.
It also counts English author
Somerset Maugham among its
early patrons.
The Coliseum Café still offers
western meals, including its
famous sizzling steak, and an
authentic early 20th-century
atmosphere that has changed
little over the years.
d Chow Kit Market

Jalan Haji Hussein. Map 1 B3.
 Chow Kit. @ B111. Roadside vendor at Chow Kit Market, one of the city’s largest day markets
Open 10am–2am daily.
should be vigilant of pick- 4,300 works. The permanent
Strung out along the narrow pockets, especially after dark. exhibition on the first floor
lanes and alleys just to the features a selection of works
east of Jalan Tuanku Abdul across different genres and
Rahman, Chow Kit Market is one f National Art periods. Highlights include
of the city’s biggest and most Gallery Tan Wei Kheng’s Penan Hunter
popular street markets. It is Jalan Temerloh. Map 2 D1.
(2008); Fadilah Karim’s Beautiful
divided into various sections Tel (03) 4026-7000. ' Titiwangsa or Tangle (2013); Shia Yih Yiing’s
and is especially known for its KLCC, then taxi. @ B104. Open Homage Couture (2013); and
fresh produce, which includes 10am–6pm daily. 8 11am & 2:30pm Haslin Ismail’s Book Land (2013),
everything from exotic fruits Tue–Sun, 10:30am & 3pm Fri. 7 ^ an installation that portrays the
and vegetables to live seafood, = ∑ artgallery.gov.my power of imagination derived
dried anchovies, and meat. Stall National Theater: Tel (03) 4026-5000. from reading. The temporary
owners shout out their wares to Open box office: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. shows of modern Asian art
vie for attention while porters 7 ∑ istanabudaya.gov.my include photography, sculpture,
busily ferry trays and carts laden and installation art.
with goods between the stalls. Home to the city’s finest Next door, the striking
Although the smells can be permanent collection of National Theater, designed
overpowering and the narrow contemporary Malaysian art, in the shape of a Malay kite,
wooden walkways wet and the National Art Gallery also hosts interesting cultural
slippery due to the extensive hosts temporary exhibitions shows as well as national and
use of water to keep the of Asian and international art. international theater, and also
produce fresh, the market offers Since its establishment in 1958, features a traditional Malay
an interesting glimpse of every- it has acquired more than theater costume gallery.
day life in Kuala Lumpur that
few tourists see. Numerous
other stalls sell household
goods, shoes, and watches.
Most of Chow Kit Market,
especially the fresh produce
sections, closes before 6pm,
which is when the night market
takes over. A profusion of
hawker stalls set up shop,
offering a variety of Malay
snacks, as well as inexpensive
but substantial meals, cooked
in the traditional way. Indian
and Chinese food, authentically
prepared, is also on offer. Some
of these stalls also operate
during the day. The market is
always bustling, and often lasts
into the early hours. As with
other crowded areas, visitors Contemporary art exhibits at the National Art Gallery
g Titiwangsa Lake
Gardens
Jalan Temerloh. ' Titiwangsa. 
Titiwangsa. @ B120. 7 0 -
Located on the northern
fringes of the city, these
peaceful, manicured gardens
are a great escape from the
urban bustle and a popular
recreational space. Laid out
around a vast man-made
lake, the lush gardens are a
visual treat and offer a great
view of the Petronas Towers.
They are also a perfect place
to relax, go jogging, or even
go boating. There is a herb
garden, a lotus pond, and a
playground for children.
Exercise enthusiasts can
also hire bikes to explore
the gardens.
h Kampung Baru
and Pasar Minggu
Petronas Towers, the tallest twin structures in the world
Market
Jalan Raja Muda Musa. Map 2 D4. marking its western boundary. j Petronas Towers
' Kampung Baru. @ B102 & B103 While the old-fashioned Jalan Ampang. Map 2E4.
to Jalan Raja Muda Abdul Aziz. kampung-style houses and the Tel (03) 2331-8080. ' KLCC.
1920s Masjid Jamek on Jalan @ B103, B109. Open Skybridge:
Established in 1899, the village Raja Abdullah are worth a visit, 9am–9pm Tue–Sun. Closed Mon,
of Kampung Baru is the oldest the real highlight of Kampung 1–2:30pm Fri. & 7 =
Malay residential area in Kuala Baru is the glimpse it offers of ∑ petronastwintowers.com.my
Lumpur. Its traditional wooden an older, more leisurely way of
houses, some on stilts, are still life that seems to be rapidly Soaring to a height of 1,483 ft
found throughout this small disappearing under the (452 m), the 88-story Petronas
settlement which lies to the increasingly fast pace of Towers are an internationally
north of the Sungai Klang, modern Kuala Lumpur. Village recognized symbol of modern
roughly between Jalan Raja elders have repeatedly Malaysia. Designed by the
Muda Musa and Jalan Raja turned down huge famous Argentinian
Muda Abdul Aziz, with Jalan amounts of money to architect Cesar Pelli, who
Raja Abdullah and the develop the land, said also designed the Canary
incredibly busy Chow Kit area to be the most valuable Wharf Tower in London,
in the city. Starfruit at Pasar the Petronas Towers were
The area comes alive Minggu completed in 1998. Built
on Saturday nights for with heat-reflecting stain-
the locally popular Pasar less steel and laminated glass,
Minggu, or Sunday Market. and crowned by steel pinnacles,
Stalls are set up along Jalan the towers resemble a pair of
Raja Muda Musa and Jalan Raja minarets. The eight-sided star
Alang at about 6pm on of the floorplan and the overall
Saturday evening, and stay architecture reflect Islamic
open until 1am, or the early principles of unity and harmony.
hours of Sunday morning. One of the towers houses the
Plenty of food and fresh national petroleum and oil
produce is available, as well as company, Petronas. The skybridge,
numerous hawker stalls tempt- linking the towers at the 41st
ing shoppers with delicious, floor, offers a bird’s-eye view of
traditional Malay street food. A the city. Tickets can be bought
few basic cafés offer visitors ahead of time online through
Street food being prepared at Pasar Minggu more substantial meal options. the website.
KUALA LUMPUR 79
k Suria KLCC and l Aquaria KLCC

KLCC Park Jalan Pinang. Map 2 F5. Tel (03) 2333-
Jalan Ampang. Map 2 F5. 1888. ' KLCC. @ B105, B106.
Tel (03) 2382-3326. ' KLCC. Open 10:30am–8pm daily. & 7 =
@ B103, B105. Open 10am–10pm ∑ aquariaklcc.com
daily. 7 free hire inside Suria KLCC.
0 - = ∑ suriaklcc.com.my
Occupying two levels within the
KLCC Park: Open 7am–10pm.
Kuala Lumpur Convention Center,
Galeri Petronas: Tel (03) 2051-7770. a short walk from the Petronas
Open Tue–Sun. 7 = Towers, Aquaria KLCC is a visual
∑ galeripetronas.com.my treat. This enormous state-of-
Petrosains: Tel (03) 2331-8181. the-art aquarium is home to
Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, over 5,000 creatures, both
9:30am–6:30pm Sat & Sun. & = aquatic and terrestrial, including
∑ petrosains.com.my around 150 different species of
fish from across the world.
Spread out over six floors Conceptualized around the
below the Petronas Towers, route that water takes from the
Suria KLCC is one of the city’s mountains to the sea, the
busiest shopping malls, with The glitzy interior of the Suria KLCC aquarium recreates various
numerous chain stores, shopping mall ecosystems. The journey begins
restaurants, coffee bars, and a in the highlands and is
cinema, as well as banks, ATMs, and learn about prehistory in followed by a flooded forest
and a post office. A range of the geotime diorama. High- display where giant catfish can
giant international department lights include a replica of be seen lurking among tree
stores have branches here, NASA’s Mars space rover and roots. Other ecosystems
including Isetan and Parkson, a singing dinosaur. include mangroves, coral reefs,
along with specialist retailers The lush KLCC Park that and the spectacular open
and fast-food outlets. sprawls in front of the complex ocean. A highlight is the 295-ft-
On the third floor is the offers a welcome respite from (90-m-) long moving walkway
Galeri Petronas, which hosts city traffic. The gardens are underwater tunnel, which
rotating exhibitions of tradi- laid out with benches and offers views of a simulated
tional and contemporary art, shelters, a paddling pool, and a natural habitat and a shipwreck
both from Asia and farther children’s playground. Planted colonized by reef inhabitants,
afield. Petrosains, on the with over 1,900 native trees, as well as close-up sightings of
fourth floor, is an excellent many bearing explanation stingrays, eels, and rare sand
interactive science discovery plaques, and centered on an tiger sharks.
center. Young visitors can learn artificial lake with fountains Feeding times are spread
about petroleum science and (which put on nightly throughout the day, and a
technology through a range synchronized shows at 8pm), touch pool lets children handle
of hands-on exhibits, and can the gardens are a cool and aquatic creatures. Visitors who
also visit a mock oil rig, try a pleasant place to wander have a diving qualification can
helicopter flight simulator, around in the evenings. even dive with sharks.
Visitors observing a school of fish through the glass of a giant tank at the Aquaria KLCC
malls, including Lot 10 and

Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. Adding
local flavor are pavement
reflexologists and Middle-
Eastern cafés where locals puff
hookahs, or tobacco pipes.
Changkat Bukit Bintang is
another street offering chic bars
and restaurants. One of the
country’s biggest shopping
malls, Berjaya Times Square,
dominates Jalan Imbi while
most of the top-end hotels lie
on Jalan Sultan Ismail.
Malaysian Tourism Information Complex, housed in a colonial mansion c Menara KL and
z Malaysian x The Golden

Bukit Nanas Forest
Tourism Information Triangle Reserve
2 Jalan Punchak, off Jalan P Ramlee.
Complex Map 1 C5.  Bukit Bintang, Imbi. Map 5 A1. Tel (03) 2020-5444. 
@ B107, B108.
109 Jalan Ampang. Map 2 E5. Bukit Nanas. Open 9am–10pm daily.
Tel (03) 9235-4848. ' KLCC. Spread over a large, roughly & 0 - = ∑ menarakl.com.my
 Bukit Nanas. @ B106. triangular area with its apex at Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve:
Open 8am–10pm daily. Jalan Ampang in the north and Open 7am–6pm daily. 8 arranged
7 0 = ∑ matic.gov.my its base formed by Jalan Imbi in by Menara KL. 7
the south, the Golden Triangle is
The largest tourist center in Kuala Lumpur’s main business, Built as a communications
Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian shopping, and nightlife district. tower between 1991 and 1996,
Tourism Information Complex Among the sea of glitzy high- Menara KL, or KL tower, is
is housed in an impressive rise buildings are most of the among the five tallest tele-
colonial mansion. Built on the city’s prominent shopping malls, communications towers in the
site of an old rambutan orchard along with countless bars, world. It stands at a height of
in 1935, it was formerly the restaurants, cafés, and premier 1,380 ft (421 m). Its lobby has
home of Eu Tong Seng, a hotels, including the Mandarin several shops and a lift that
wealthy Chinese tin and rubber Oriental (see p278), which is whisks visitors up to the obser-
businessman. Not long after its located opposite the Petronas vation deck for a panoramic
construction, World War II broke Towers. At the heart of the view of the city. At a dizzying
out and the house was taken Golden Triangle is Jalan Bukit height of 905 ft (276 m), it is
over by the British military and Bintang with its trendy bars, more than 328-ft (100-m) higher
used as their war office. It was eateries, and the biggest than the skybridge at the
subsequently captured by the concentration of shopping Petronas Towers. As well as a
Japanese army, who converted revolving restaurant, there is
it into their headquarters in also an aquarium and a floor full
Malaysia for the remainder the of games simulators to explore.
war. After independence, the Each year, the tower hosts an
building housed several official BASE jump event, which
government agencies and also attracts around 100 participants.
witnessed the coronation At the base of the tower is
ceremonies of four successive Malaysia’s oldest nature reserve,
Malaysian kings. the Bukit Nanas Forest
Today, the main building in Reserve, gazetted in 1906.
the complex houses the This legal status saved the
Malaysia tourist information 27-acre (11-ha) slice of rain
office, while annexes contain a forest from destruction when
tourist police office, restaurant, the tower was built, and even
and a concert hall where regular resulted in a reworking of the
cultural shows are performed architectural plans to avoid the
(see p309). Traditional games, cutting down of a 100-year-old
such as top-spinning, are jelutong tree. The reserve is
also hosted here on weekends quite rundown but worth a visit
and there is a daily dance Mandarin Oriental, a luxury hotel in the to see a rich variety of wildlife,
performance at 3pm. Golden Triangle including monkeys and
KUALA LUMPUR 81
Panorama of Kuala Lumpur from the Menara KL tower observation desk
squirrels, as well as numerous b Kompleks of artisans creating their wares

tropical trees. Be sure to bring Budaya Kraf with displays of the various
mosquito repellent. tools they would have used.
63 Jalan Conlay. Map 6 E1. Tel (03) In the exhibition areas and
2162-7459. ' KLCC.  Raja Chulan. workshops, craftspeople
@ R108. Open daily. & 7 - =
v Badan Warisan ∑ kraftangan.gov.my
demonstrate ethnic art and
2 Jalan Stonor. Map 6 E1.
craft skills, such as weaving,
Tel (03) 2144-9273.  Raja Chulan. Located on the eastern edge of batik-printing, and silver and
@ R108. Open 10am–5:30pm the Golden Triangle, Komplex copperwork. Visitors are
Mon–Sat. Closed Sun. & 8 11am & Budaya Kraf is a handicrafts welcome to try their hand
3pm Mon–Sat. 7 limited. = complex that showcases a and can also receive lessons
∑ badanwarisan.org.my wide range of traditional in a particular craft. The
arts and crafts from complex is one of the
Founded in 1983 for the the various states of best places in Kuala
conservation of Malaysia’s Peninsular Malaysia Lumpur to buy these
architectural heritage, Badan and Malaysian Borneo. local handicrafts, with
Warisan is a non-government It is made up of four Earthenware at a number of shops
organization that runs regular separate buildings that Budaya Kraf and stalls selling pewter,
campaigns and projects to save house shops and stalls, a silverwork, pottery,
historical buildings from neglect museum, exhibition areas, woodcarvings, hand-woven
and destruction. In 1995, it and several workshops. The textiles, batik, and beadwork,
renovated a colonial bungalow museum traces the history alongside more unusual
on Jalan Stonor and turned it and development of age-old items such as rattan fishtraps,
into a heritage center, with crafts and features dioramas birdcages, and tribal blowpipes.
exhibition facilities for art and
craft shows as well as a resource
center with books, drawings,
slides, and photographs for
those keen to learn more about
the organization’s conservation
work. The highlight is Rumuh
Penghulu Abu Seman, a
traditional Malay wooden
house dating from the 1920s. It
was brought to this site in a
state of serious disrepair from a
village in Kedah. Since then, it
has been expertly restored and
now serves as a showpiece for
modern conservation methods. An array of traditional handicrafts on sale at the Kompleks Budaya Kraf
mosques in Southeast Asia

and the largest in Malaysia.
Nearby is the Museum
Sultan Azlan Shah with
extensive displays covering
the history of Selangor from
prehistoric times to the present
day. It also contains galleries
dedicated to the state’s wildlife
as well as its sporting achieve-
ments. To the west of the
museum is the attractively
landscaped Lake Gardens,
home to the Galeri Shah
Alam, a modern art gallery
located in a traditional Malay
wooden building which
hosts temporary exhibitions
of modern art over three
separate galleries. On the
opposite side of the lake is
Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Mosque in Shah Alam Wet World Water Park, a water
theme park with pools, slides,
n FRIM m Shah Alam and rides.
Kepong, 10 miles (16 km) NW of Kuala 11 miles (18 km) W of Kuala Lumpur.
Lumpur. Tel (03) 6279-7575. £ to * 319,600. £ @ n Jalan Indah
Kepong, then taxi. Open park: 14, (03) 5513-2000. _ Bon Odori , Klang
5am–7:30pm; canopy: 9:30am– Festival (Jul). ∑ tourismselangor. 18 miles (30 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur.
2:30pm except Mon & Fri; museum: gov.my Museum Sultan Azlan Shah: * 563,200. £ @ ∑ mpklang.
8am–4:30pm. & for vehicles; canopy Persian Bandaraya. Tel (03) 5519-0050. gov.my Gedung Raja Abdullah: Jalan
tours. 8 7 limited. - =  Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. Raja Abdullah. Tel (03) 5519-0050.
∑ frim.gov.my Closed Mon, noon–2:45pm Fri. 7 Closed for renovation.
Galeri Shah Alam: Persiaran Tasik.
Occupying 2 sq miles (5 sq km) Tel (03) 5510-5344. Open 8:30am– The former royal capital of
of parkland within the Bukit 5:30pm daily. Closed 12:15–2:45pm Selangor, the city of Klang,
Lagong Forest Reserve, the Fri. Wet World Water Park: Tel (03) flourished during the 19th-
Forest Research Institute of 5513-2020. Open 10am–6pm century boom in the tin
Malaysia (FRIM) was founded Thu–Tue. & - ∑ owg.com.my industry. However, in 1867,
in 1929 as a research and Designated the state capital of civil war erupted owing to the
development center for tropical Selangor in 1978, Shah Alam rivalry between the two local
forests, with a special emphasis is a well-planned modern city chieftains, Rajah Mahadi and
on sustainable forest sprawled over a large area. It is Rajah Abdullah. The fighting
management. An on-site essentially an industrial and was ended in 1874 when the
museum explains the center’s administrative center, and is British authorities intervened
work. There are several rarely visited by tourists. Still, and installed the first Resident in
arboreta of native trees, the area’s few sights of the town. The discovery of new
including the most interest, most of which tin deposits in Kuala Lumpur in
comprehensive collec- are within walking dis- 1880 further diminished the
tion of dipterocarp tance of each other,
(hardwood) species in make it a pleasant day
the world. Also in the trip. Located in a park at
grounds is a traditional FRIM logo the center of town is the
Malay house from Tereng- city’s main attraction, the
ganu (see p147). Among the Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz
highlights of a visit to FRIM is Shah Mosque, more popularly
the 656-ft- (200-m-) long canopy known as the Blue Mosque
walkway suspended 98 ft (30 m) owing to its large blue and
above ground, which offers a silver aluminum dome. Its four
fascinating close-up view of the 466-ft (142-m-) high minarets
treetops. There are also a num- are said to be the tallest in the
ber of easy walking trails, a world. The mosque can
more strenuous mountain bike accommodate up to 24,000
trail, camping, bird-watching, worshipers and is reputed Inscribed mausoleum at Masjid Di Raja
and picnic areas. to be one of the largest Sultan Suleiman in Klang
KUALA LUMPUR 83
importance of Klang. Today, the / Putrajaya

city is a commercial center, with 15 miles (25 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur.
most sights of interest located * 45,000. £ KLIA Transit from
in the old town, south of the KL Sentral. @ n Precinct 1,
Sungai Klang. (03) 8888-7272. ∑ ppj.gov.my
Built in 1857, Gedung Raja Botanic Garden: Precinct 1. Open
Abdullah was the former res- 7am–7pm daily. & 7 0 - =
idence of Rajah Abdullah. Due Putrajaya Wetlands: Precinct 13. Tel (03)
to reopen following renovations 8925-3817. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
(phone ahead to check), it 7am–7pm Sat & Sun. & - =
houses the Tin Museum, which
traces the history of the local Founded in 1995, Putrajaya is
mining industry through the new federal administrative
archived photographs and capital of Malaysia. Lying at
other artifacts. Nearby are the the heart of the Multimedia A close view of the pink granite edifice of the
remains of Rajah Mahadi’s fort. Super Corridor (MSC), an area Putra Mosque
Also located in the old quarter designated to attract information
is the attractive Masjid Di Raja technology companies, and with Justice, topped with a gigantic
Sultan Suleiman, the former huge swathes of green spaces, it dome. The Putra Mosque with
state mosque, behind which is is a planned “intelligent” garden its 380-ft- (116-m-) high minaret
Istana Alam Shah, the royal city. Putrajaya is built on cleared looms over one edge of the lake
palace of the Sultan of Selangor. forest land and centered around and is one of the city’s most
Although closed to the public, a huge artificial lake. The city is impressive buildings, blending
visitors can view the pleasing designed to create a sense of architectural styles from Iraq,
façade of the palace, a blend of vastness and with so much water Iran, and Morocco. Other sights
Islamic and modern architecture. around, great attention has been worth exploring include the
Port Klang, or North Port, lies paid to building massive bridges. Botanic Garden with its col-
5 miles (8 km) to the west, close These include the Putra Bridge, lection of tropical flora, and the
to South Port, Malaysia’s main inspired by the Khaju Bridge in Putrajaya Wetlands, which
seaport, and is the access point Iran, and the 787-ft- (240-m-) were constructed to help
for Pulau Ketam. long Seri Gemilang Bridge. cleanse river water. Paddleboats
Government departments can be hired for trips on the
and ministries began the move wetlands and lake.
. Pulau Ketam here from Kuala Lumpur in Lying on the outskirts of
34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala Lumpur.
1999. These include the Prime Putrajaya is its twin town,
* 8,000. g from Port Klang. Minister’s office, known as Cyberjaya. Conceived as a
∑ pulauketam.com Perdana Putra, built in a flam- center for high-tech companies,
boyant Malay-Palladian style, more than 50,000 people work
First inhabited by Hainanese and the equally grand Palace of there every weekday.
fishermen in the 1870s, Pulau
Ketam, or Crab Island, remains
largely populated by Chinese.
The majority of the inhabitants
still make their living by fishing.
Although Pulau Ketam village
is a simple settlement of stilt
houses built over the water
with narrow wooden walkways
in place of roads, it contains
a number of basic amenities
including a bank and hospital.
It is well known for its superb
seafood restaurants, specializing
in crab dishes, which make it a
popular weekend dining venue
for city residents. There are also
ornate Chinese temples, such
as the Nang Thiam Keng
Temple, where locals host
wedding feasts. The many
floating fish farms offshore
are worth visiting and can be
reached by a short boat ride
from the island jetty. Palace of Justice, Putrajaya, with its distinctive Islamic-style architecture
KUALA LUMPUR STREET FINDER

The key map below shows the area of the maps can be found on the facing page.
Kuala Lumpur covered in this Street Finder. The first figure in the map reference indicates
Map references given for sights, shops, which Street Finder map to turn to, and the
and entertainment venues in the Kuala letters and numbers that follow refer to
Lumpur section refer to the maps on the the map’s grid. The symbols used to represent
following pages. Map references are also sights and useful information on the Street
provided for some of Kuala Lumpur’s hotels Finder maps are listed in the key below.
and restaurants. An index of the street Common street designations have been
names and places of interest shown on abbreviated – Jalan to Jln. and Lorong to Lrg.
N
ABDUL RAHM A
0 km 1
J ALAN RAJA MUDA ABDUL AZIZ
0 miles 1
N G
PA
T U ANKU
A M
K AT
ING
BER T
AYA
HR
AN
BU
JAL
LE
JA
LA
N
S UL
TA N I S M
EN
LIM
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P
JAL
AN
A
JA L A N
IL
PU
DU
J A L A N D A MA N
SA
RA
Key to Street Finder

Major sight Visitor information
Place of interest Hindu temple
Other buildings Church
LRT station Chinese temple
Railroad station Mosque
Bus station Railroad Scale of Map Pages
Monorail Expressway
0 meters 300
Hospital
0 yards 300
Police station
KUALA LUMPUR STREET FINDER 85
Street Finder Index

A Galloway, Jalan 5 B3 Masjid India, Jalan 4 F1 Ria, Jalan 4 D4
Gelugor, Jalan 5 C5 Masjid Jamek 4 E2 Robertson, Jalan 5 B3
Abdul Rahman Idris, Jalan 1 C2 Gereja, Jalan 4 F1 Masjid Negara 4 D3 Royal Selangor Club 4 E2
Ahmad, Jalan 2 D2 Golden Triangle, The 1 C5 Mayang, Lorong 2 F4
Alor, Jalan 5 C2 Grenier, Lorong 6 D3 Melaka, Jalan 4 F1
Ampang, Jalan 1 C5 Gurney Kiri, Jalan 2 F1 Melayu, Jalan 4 F1
S
Ampang, Lebuh 4 F1 Gurney, Jalan 2 F2 Melur, Jalan 6 E3 Sahabat, Jalan 5 B2
Ampang Toll Road 2 C5 Gurney, Lorong 2 F1 Menara KL 5 A1 San Peng, Jalan 5 C5
Aquaria KLCC 2 F5 Munshi Abdullah, Sarawak, Jalan 5 C4
Asrama, Jalan 2 E1
H Jalan 1 B5 Seladang, Jalan
Semarak, Jalan
6 E5
2 F2
B Haji Hassan Salleh, Jalan 2 D4
N Sri Maha Mariamman
Haji Hussin, Jalan 1 B3 Temple 4 F3
Baba, Jalan 5 C4 Haji Taib, Jalan 1 B3 Nagasari, Jalan 5 C2 Stadium, Jalan 5 A4
Badan Warisan 6 E1 Haji Yaakob, Jalan 2 F3 National Art Gallery 2 D1 Stesen Sentral, Jalan 3 C5
Balai Polis, Jalan 4 F4 Hang Jebat, Jalan 4 F3 National Music Sulaiman, Jalan 4 E4
Bangsar, Jalan 3 C5 Hang Tuah, Jalan 5 B4 Museum 4 E2 Sultan, Jalan 4 F3
Barat, Jalan 6 E3 Hicks, Lorong 5 B1 National Museum 3 C4 Sultan Abdul Samad
Bedara, Jalan 5 C2 Horley, Jalan 6 D3 National Theater 1 C1 Building 4 E2
Berangan, Jalan 5 C2 Negeri Sembilan, Sultan
Beremi, Jalan 5 C2
Beruang, Jalan 6 E5 I Jalan 3 A4 Hishamuddin, Jalan
Sultan Ismail, Jalan
4 E4
1 A4
Bugis, Jalan 6 D5 Imbi Medan 6 D3 continues 5 C1
Bukit Bintang, Jalan 5 C3 Imbi, Jalan 5 C3
P Sultan Salahuddin, Jalan 3 B1
Bukit Ceylon, Jalan 5 B2 Imbi, Lorong 6 E2 P. Ramlee, Jalan 2 E5 Suria KLCC and KLCC
Bukit Nanas, Jalan 4 F1 Inai, Lorong 6 E2 continues 5 B1 Park 2 F5
Bukit Travers 3 B5 Ipoh, Jalan 1 A2 Padang Belia, Jalan 4 D5 Syed Putra, Jalan 4 E5
Bulan, Jalan 5 C3 Ipor Kecil, Jalan 1 A2 Padang Negeri Sze Ya Temple 4 F3
Bulatan Merdeka 4 F4 Islamic Arts Museum 4 D4 Sembilan 3 A5
Bunus, Jalan 4 E1 Istana, Jalan 4 F5 Padang, Jalan 6 D2
Pahang, Jalan 1 B1
T
C J Pangkor, Jalan 1 A1 Tanglin, Jalan 3 C2
Parlimen, Jalan 3 B2 Tembusu, Jalan 3 C3
Carcosa Seri Negara 3 B3 Jalan Petaling Market 4 F3 Pasar Besar, Lebuh 4 E2 Temerloh, Jalan 2 D1
Cemur, Jalan 1 B1 Jarrett, Jalan 6 F4 Pasar, Jalan 6 D5 Tengah, Jalan 5 C1
Cendana, Jalan 1 C4 Jati, Jalan 6 E2 Pekeliling Lama, Jalan 1 B1 Tengkat Tong Shin 5 B2
Central Market 4 E2 Johor, Jalan 3 A5 Pelanduk, Jalan 6 E4 Tuanku Abdul
Ceylon, Jalan 5 A2 Johor Selatan, Jalan 3 A5 Perak, Jalan 5 C1 Rahman, Jalan 1 B3
Chagar, Jalan 1 A3 Perak, Lorong 2 D5 continues 4 E1
Changkat Bukit
Bintang 5 B2
K Perdana Botanical
Gardens 3 B3
Tun Perak, Jalan
Tun Razak, Jalan
4 E1
1 A1
Changkat Damansara 3 B5 Kampung Attap, Jalan 4 E5 Perdana, Jalan 3 C3 Tun Sambanthan,
Changkat Persekutuan 3 B5 Kampung Baru and Pasar Perkarangan Tun Jalan 4 D5
Changkat Raja Minggu Market 2 D4 Ismail 3 C1
Chulan 5 B1 Kampung Pandan, Jalan 6 F4 Persekutuan, Jalan 3 B4
Changkat Thambi Kanchil, Jalan 6 D5 Persiaran Hampshire 2 F4
Y
Dollah, Jalan 6 D4 Kebun Bunga, Jalan 3 B3 Persiaran KLCC 2 F5 Yap Kwan Seng, Jalan 2 E4
Chan See Shu Yuen Kemuning, Jalan 6 E2 Persiaran Lidcol 2 F4 Yew, Jalan 6 E5
Temple 4 F4 Khoo Teik Ee, Jalan 6 D3 Persiaran Mahameru 3 A3
Chan Wing, Jalan 6 D3 Kia Peng, Jalan 6 D1 Persiaran Maybank 5 A2
Cheng Lock, Jalan 4 F3 Kijang, Jalan 6 D4 Persiaran Raja Chulan 5 A2
Cheong Yoke Kinabalu, Jalan 4 E2 Persiaran Stonor 6 E1
Choy, Jalan 6 F5 Kompleks Budaya Kraf 6 E1 Persiaran Sultan
Cheong Yoke Kuala Lumpur City Salahuddin 3 B1
Choy, Lorong 6 F5 Gallery 4 E2 Petaling, Jalan 4 F3
Chinatown 4 F3 Kuala Lumpur Railway Petronas Towers 2 E4
Choo Cheng Khay, Station 4 E4 Pinang, Jalan 2 E5
Jalan 5 A5 Kuching, Jalan 1 A4 Pintasan RMM 4 2 E3
Chow Kit Market 1 B4 continues 4 E1 Pudu 14, Jalan 5 C3
Chow Kit, Jalan 1 B2 Pudu, Jalan 5 B3
Coales, Jalan 6 F5
Cochrane, Jalan 6 F5
L Puncak, Jalan
Putra, Jalan
5 B1
1 A2
Cochrane, Lorong 6 F5 Landak, Jalan 6 D5
Conlay, Jalan 6 E1 Lapangan Terbang, Jalan 5 B5
Ledang, Jalan 3 A2
R
D Lembah Perdana, Jalan
Limau Manis Dua, Lorong
4 D3
3 A5
Rahmat, Jalan 1A1
Raja Abdullah, Jalan 1 C5
Damansara, Jalan 3 A3 Little India 1 B5 Raja Alang, Jalan 1 B3
Dang Wangi, Jalan 1 B5 Loke Yew, Jalan 5 B5 Raja Chulan, Jalan 4 F2
Dato Onn, Jalan 4 D1 Lumut, Jalan 1 A1 continues 5 A2
Datuk H Eusoff, Jalan 1 A1 Raja Chulan, Lorong 5 B1
Delima, Jalan 6 F3
Doraisamy, Jalan 1 B4
M Raja Laut, Jalan
continues
1 A3
4 E1
Dr. Latiff, Jalan 1 C2 Mahameru, Lebuhraya 3 A3 Raja Laut, Lorong 1 B2
Maharajalela Jalan 5 A4 Raja Muda Abdul
G Malaysian Tourism
Information Complex 2 E5
Aziz, Jalan 1 B2
Raja Muda Musa, Jalan 1 C3
Gading, Jalan 6 D2 Masjid Hospital, Jalan 1 C1 Raja Muda, Lorong 2 D2
Gajus, Jalan 5 B5 Masjid India 4 F1 Raja Uda, Jalan 2 D3
K
Titiwangsa ZA
RA National Theater
JGB PLAZA
N
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JL
N. K
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JL
N
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L A N Titiwangsa
. P LA ID N
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PEKELILING EKEL OR
AN
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PA
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JA
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BATA
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Pekeliling
Bus Station N U T A
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AT JA
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JA
JA S P
JAL WAN LA I T
N A L
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N
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JALA
PA N Hospital
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JAL
JL JA Hospital
N LA
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JL
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DR. LA
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JA L F
Cancer (UKM)
LA
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2/
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A
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Muda
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Court
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JA L A
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MU D A A B D U L A Z I Z
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JALAN AB DUL R AHM AN I D RI S

Federal Kit
LOR. RAJA
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JA L AN
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PWTC
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The Mall
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NORTHWEST PENINSULA
The northwestern states of Malaysia are among the most
geographically diverse and historically significant in the country.
The landscape encompasses everything from coastal plains and
lushly forested mountains to jutting limestone cliffs and pristine
islands. A long legacy of immigrants and rulers, attracted by the
region’s strategic geographical position and its natural wealth,
has bequeathed a fascinating mix of cultures.
Archaeological remains found at the influx of Chinese immigrants. As a result

coastal site of Lembah Bujang provide of these varied early influences and
evidence of a Hindu-Buddhist kingdom economic developments, the Northwest
that dates back to the 4th century AD. Peninsula is more cosmopolitan and less
In the 7th and 8th centuries, the region culturally conservative than other parts
was ruled by the Srivijaya empire and of Malaysia. It is also one of the most
later by Siam (now Thailand), while the developed and populous regions in the
15th century saw the rise of the Sultanate country, comprising not only ethnic
of Malacca. With the beginning of the Malays, Chinese, and Indians, but also
17th century, a power struggle ensued indigenous groups such as the Orang
between colonial powers in the area Asli and the Orang Syam in the interior
until the British finally gained control. jungles and far north. The old royal capital
By the mid-19th century, the growing of Kuala Kangsar and the vibrant, historic,
importance of tin mining in the states and culturally diverse city of Georgetown
of Perak and Selangor brought with it in Penang are on the itinerary of most
far-reaching economic, political, and visitors to the Northwest Peninsula. More
social repercussions. It fueled Malaysia’s laid-back tourists head for the region’s
tremendous economic rise in the pristine beaches or the soothing environs
20th century and also attracted a huge of its tea plantations and cool hill stations.
The palm-fringed white sands of Pantai Cenang Beach, Langkawi
The ornate tiered pagoda of the Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang

Exploring the Northwest Peninsula Hat Yai

Few regions in the country offer the range of attractions found PERLIS
Bukit Kayu
in the Northwest Peninsula. The interiors feature cool hill Hitam
stations, such as the celebrated Cameron Highlands, limestone PULAU
Changlun
cliffs riddled with cave temples, including the Batu Caves, and LANGKAWI Kuala Perlis
Chinese-dominated tin-rush towns such as Ipoh. The most
Pulau Tuba KUALA
popular destinations are along the coast, including Penang, Pulau Dayang KEDAH
which is an ideal base for exploring the region and a fascinating Bunting
destination in itself, and the islands of Langkawi and Pangkor. ALOR
STAR
The archaeologically important Lembah Bujang lies in Kedah
which, together with Perlis, is carpeted with paddy fields.
GUNUNG JERAI
Sights at a Glance
Towns and Cities Areas of Natural Beauty LEMBAH
4 Kuala Selangor 5 Fraser’s Hill BUJANG
7 Ipoh 6 Cameron Highlands pp98–9 Penang
q Taiping 0 Kinta Valley Georgetown
e Kuala Kangsar o Penang Hill Butterworth
r Georgetown pp106–11 s Penang National Park
f Batu Maung h Gunung Jerai
See inset below
j Alor Star
Historical Sites and Buildings
k Kuala Kedah
8 Kellie’s Castle
Places of Worship w Lenggong Valley Kuala Kurau
1 Batu Caves g Lembah Bujang
t Dhammikarama Temple
Islands and Beaches 0 kilometers 50
y Wat Chayamangkalaram
i Kek Lok Si Temple 9 Pulau Pangkor 0 miles 50
d Snake Temple p Batu Ferringhi
a Teluk Bahang
Gardens and Themed l Pulau Langkawi pp118–19
Attractions
3 Genting Highlands Penang
u Penang Botanic Gardens BATU
TELUK FERRINGHI
Museums and Galleries BAHANG Tanjung
Tokong
2 Museum JAKOA
WAT
PENANG PENANG BOTANIC CHAYAMANGKALARAM
NATIONAL GARDENS
PARK PENANG HILL DHAMMIKARAMA
TEMPLE
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g SI TEMPLE GEORGETOWN
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Butterworth
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Balik Pulau
Pekan SNAKE TEMPLE
Genting Re
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BATU nd
Brid
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0 kilometers 5
0 miles 5
Palm-fringed Pelangi Beach,
Pulau Langkawi
NORTHWEST PENINSULA 95
Getting Around
A good domestic flight network covers Ipoh, Pulau Pangkor,
Langkawi, Georgetown, and Alor Star. The North–South Highway and
Route 1, the region’s two major roads, and the national railroad (KTM)
run almost parallel with each other, tracing the length of the west
coast and linking the major towns. Driving is a good option; roads are
Kuala
Nerang safe and traffic is mainly law-abiding. Two bridges connect Penang to
Tasik the mainland, as do car and passenger ferries. Lumut is the ferry point
Pedu for Pulau Pangkor, while ferries to Pulau Langkawi are available at
Nami
Kuala Kedah, Kuala Perlis, and Georgetown.
Pendang
KE D A H
Batu
Sungai Melintang
Petani Tasek Tasik Temengor Pasir
Kampung Puteh
Kuala Kupang
Ketil Banding
Kampung
Kerun
Kulim Grik
Bukit Mertajam Lawin Lake
NO
Gunung Inas Kenering

RT
Selama 5,909 ft
H-
Air Kala
SO
U
H Padang Gerus
T
H
IG
MAXWELL
HW
HILL PERAK
AY
Bagan
ins
Serai Sungai Siput

Utara
Mounta
TAIPING
KUALA
KINTA KANGSAR
VALLEY
IPOH
Pantai Simpang Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang, the largest Buddhist
Remis Brinchang
Batu Gajah Pulai Jel
ai temple in Malaysia
KELLIE’S Tanah Rata
CASTLE Ringlet CAMERON
sa
Key
Kampar HIGHLANDS
Titiwang
Lumut Highway
Tapah
Kampung Koh Major road
NORTH-
PULAU
Bidor
PANGKOR Kampung Minor road
Pasir Belanda
S
Railroad
O UT
Teluk Intan Kampung Cin

HH
Bagan International border

Simpang Ampat
IGH
Datuk Ceroh
Rungkup State border
WA
FRASER’S
Y
Sabak Peak
HILL Raub
Teranum
Sungai Besar Kampung
Simpang Lima
Kuala Kubu
SELANGOR Baharu Bentong
Sekincan
GENTING Temerloh
Tanjung Karang HIGHLANDS Karak
KUALA SELANGOR
Sungai Buluh MUSEUM JAKOA
Mancis
BATU CAVES Kuala Lumpur
Kapar
Klang Bahau
Pulau Klang Petaling Jaya
Shah
Pulau Ketam Port Alam Kajang
Klang
Putrajaya
Banting
Seremban
Morib
Tanjung
Sepat
Orang Asli Affairs Department,

the museum presents the
history of the 18 distinct groups
within the community along
with their geographical distribu-
tion, musical instruments, orna-
ments, medicines, models of
their dwellings, and a collection
of traditional hunting weapons,
such as blowpipes and poison
spoons. Among the most
impressive of these is the display
of traditional handicrafts, which
includes wooden head carvings
with fierce facial expressions.
Vibrant paintings of Hindu deities on the walls at one of the Batu Caves Details of daily life, including
wedding rites and religious
1 Batu Caves richly painted with scenes from practices, are also described.
8 miles (13 km) N of Kuala Lumpur
the Hindu scriptures. In a
on Middle Ring Road 2. Tel 1300- chamber behind the central
88-5050. ' Batu Caves. @ shrine is the statue of another 3 Genting Highlands
Open 7am–6pm daily. 0 = deity, Lord Rama. 31 miles (50 km) NE of Kuala Lumpur.
_ Thaipusam Festival (Jan/Feb). The cave gets extremely busy @ from Kuala Lumpur, then cable car
so it’s best to head there early in (optional). 0 = ∑ rwgenting.com
Set high in a range of rugged the morning. Another essential Genting Skyway runs every 20 min;
limestone cliffs, the Batu Caves tip: do not feed the monkeys after midnight every hour.
are a vast cavern complex that that congregate at the entrance.
has become one of the most Unlike most conventional hill-
popular attractions near the station retreats, the 6,562-ft
capital. Long known to the 2 Museum JAKOA (2,000-m-) high Genting
indigenous Orang Asli people, Jalan Pahang, Gombak, 18 miles Highlands, located in the
the caves only gained (30 km) N of Kuala Lumpur. Titiwangsa Mountain Range, is
worldwide popularity when Tel (03) 6189-2113. @ an extensive entertainment and
American naturalist William Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu. - = gambling complex. The glitzy
Hornaday came upon them in 24-hour Casino de Genting,
1878. Deeply impressed by the Though visited by few people, one of the largest in the world,
largest cave, he compared it to a Museum JAKOA, formerly contains endless rows of
grand cathedral. In the 1890s, it known as the Orang Asli Chinese and Western games
was converted into a shrine Museum, provides a superb tables, a computerized
dedicated to the Hindu deity introduction to the customs, racetrack, and slot machines.
Lord Murugan, and soon traditions, and material culture Replacing the older Genting
became the most important of Malaysia’s almost 100,000 Theme Park is the massive
pilgrimage site for Malaysia’s Orang Asli people, the earliest Twentieth Century Fox World,
Hindus. During the annual known indigenous inhabitants with more than 25 rides and
Thaipusam festival, held in late of the peninsula. Run by the attractions themed around
January or early February, a
spectacular scene unfolds here,
when an estimated one million
pilgrims visit the caves (see p35).
Dominating the entrance to
the caves is a 141-ft- (43-m-) tall
golden statue of Lord Murugan.
From here a steep flight of 272
steps leads up to the main cave.
Also known as Temple or
Cathedral Cave, it is 328 ft
(100 m) high and is partially lit
by shafts of light that stream
through gaps in the roof. The
cave walls are lined with statues
of Lord Murugan, along with
those of other Hindu gods,
including Shiva, Ganesh, and
Durga. The dome of the cave is Genting Skyway, a cable car to Genting Highlands retreat
movies such as Alien Of all the hill stations set in the

vs. Predator, Night at the Titiwangsa mountains, Fraser’s
Museum, Planet of the Apes, Hill retains the most distinct
Titanic, and Ice Age. colonial ambience with Tudor-
The resort, considered to be style buildings. There is no
the largest in the world, has public transport, and just one
more than 10,000 rooms across road up and down. It can get
6 hotels, 100 restaurants and busy on weekends and during
more than 80 shops, a golf the school vacations, but
course, and several concert otherwise during the week it is
halls that host international usually quiet and relaxed,
performing artists. perfect for jungle strolls and
An attraction in itself is the afternoon teas.
Genting Skyway, one of the At the center of town is a
longest cable cars in Southeast market square and a clock
Asia with the capacity to hold tower covered with creeper
100 gondolas and carry 1,600 vines. There’s an organic
passengers per hour on a 2-mile Spoonbill sandpiper, Kuala Selangor market garden next to the
(3.4-km) distance from mid-hill Nature Park tiny Allan’s Water lake,
at Gohtong Jaya to Maxims where you can pick your own
Hotel at the peak. A particular highlight of Kuala strawberries. Paddle-boating is
Selangor is the chance to see available on the lake. This small
the dazzling kelip kelip, or area is surrounded by dense
4 Kuala Selangor fireflies, along the banks of woods, which contain
the Sungai Selangor at several nature trails.
42 miles (67 km) NW of Kuala
Kampung Kuantan, 6 miles One of the hill station’s main
Lumpur on Hwy 4, then 5. *
39,200. @ (10 km) east of the capital. attractions is its abundant flora
and fauna. Famous as a bird-
The small and quiet district T Fort Altingsburg watching destination, more
capital of Selangor, located Bukit Melawati. Open daily. than 265 species of birds have
at the mouth of the Sungai O Kuala Selangor Nature Park been recorded in the area.
Selangor, was once the royal Jalan Klinik. Tel (03) 2287-9422. Every June, Fraser’s Hill hosts
capital of the Sultanate of Open 9am–6pm daily. ∑ mns.my the annual International Bird
Selangor. It was conquered by Race, in which teams of
the Dutch in 1784, and soon ornithologists compete to spot
became the scene of a
5 Fraser’s Hill as many bird varieties as
number of intense battles. 62 miles (100 km) N of Kuala Lumpur. possible over a 24-hour period.
During their invasion, the n Tourism Malaysia Pahang, (09) 517- About 3 miles (5 km)
Dutch destroyed the sultan’s 7111. 8 nature walks. 0 northwest of the center is
fort and rebuilt it, naming it Jeriau Waterfall, which flows
Fort Atlingsburg after their A hill station sprawling across into a small stream.
governor general. Perched seven forested hills, the 4,921-ft
atop Bukit Melawati, (1,500-m) Fraser’s Hill is named
a hill overlooking the town, after British pioneer Louis James
the fort was battled over Fraser. A mule-train driver and
repeatedly, and all that tin-ore trader, he arrived here in
remains today are sections of the late 1890s, but then
the wall and cannons. mysteriously disappeared
Directly below the fort lies around 1910. Shortly after,
the boundary of Kuala Fraser’s Hill was developed as a
Selangor Nature Park, a refreshing retreat for the British
mangrove forest, home to expatriate community.
more than150 species of birds A picturesque journey
and a variety of wetland leads to Fraser’s Hill, passing
animals. This is the only area in through giant bamboo groves
Malaysia to record sightings of and tree ferns, and climbing
the spoonbill sandpiper. It is steeply through the Gap, a
also home to a variety of fish mountain pass between
and crabs, found in the Kuala Kubu Bharu and Raub.
mangroves along the park’s Traffic is heavily controlled
coastline. Several artificial because of the windy
ponds are surrounded by conditions on the road, so be
nature trails, observation prepared for your journey to Foliage-covered clock tower in the center
hides and towers. take longer than expected. of Fraser’s Hill
6 Cameron Highlands
The largest and most popular hill station in Malaysia, Cameron THAILAND
Highlands is located on the northwest corner of Pahang. It is
named for the British surveyor William Cameron who charted
Georgetown
the area in 1885. Dotted with lush tea plantations and farms, •
the region is renowned for its flowers and fresh produce. M A L AY S I A

The temperature here rarely exceeds 22° C (72° F) and is
Area of map
accompanied by mists and light rainfall, which makes it a great Strait of
Illustrated
getaway from the hot plains. It is also a popular destination Malacca •

Ipoh
for trekkers. Cameron Highlands retains a distinct colonial
ambience, with its principal settlement located in Tanah Rata.
Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Peak
. Smokehouse Hotel Strawberry

A mock-Tudor building on the outskirts of Park Resort
Tanah Rata, the Smokehouse Hotel typifies the Kampung
Orang Asli Cameron
colonial architecture that adds to the appeal of Highlands
Cameron Highlands. It is popular with visitors Gunung Perdah Resort
for its real Devonshire cream teas. 5,171 ft
Weather Golf
Station Club
Kampung
Gunung Jasar Taman Sedi
Jim Thompson 5,564 ft
In March 1967, Parit

James H W Thompson, Falls
a successful US-born Tanah
Thai businessman, Rata
disappeared while on
holiday in the Cameron
Highlands. He simply
walked out of the
cottage where he was
staying, and never Bharat Tea
came back. At the time, Estate Ringlet
Jim Thompson shortly before and for months after-
his disappearance wards, the media was
filled with speculation
about his fate. With his disappearance, he
became a legendary figure, leaving behind him
a resurrected and resilient Thai silk industry 0 km 1
and a traditional teak home in Bangkok. Jim 0 miles 1
Thompson’s home is now an exquisite museum
of Southeast Asian art.

56 miles (90 km) E of Ipoh.
* 12,000. n Jalan Besar,
Tanah Rata; (012) 657-1084.
∑ cameronhighlands.com
Transport
@ from Penang and Kuala
Lumpur.
. Sungai Palas Boh Tea Plantation

This stunning estate offers free daily tours. Visitors can purchase teas
and enjoy fine views across the surrounding hills while sampling tea
and cakes in the estate tearoom.
Gunung
Brinchang
6,645 ft
Ipoh
Blue Valle y Butterfly Garden

Te a Estat e Almost 300 species of butterfly
are on show here, alongside
Kuala Terla scorpions, giant rhinoceros
Rose Valle y beetles, and camouflaged
stick insects.
Uncle Sam’s
Farm
Rose Garden
Brinchang This garden has an
immense appeal for
locals as well as tourists
who visit to see the
exotic roses in bloom.
The flowers flourish only
in temperate hill
areas such as the
Cameron Highlands.
Gunung
Beremban
6,037 ft
Mardi Agricultural
Station
KEY
Robinson
1 Gunung Jasar, at 5,564 ft (1,696
Falls
m), offers fine views across Cameron
Highlands from its bald summit and
is easily accessible by a carefully
marked trail from Tanah Rata.
Rob i ns o n F a l l s 2 Gunung Perdah, at 5,171 ft
Pow e r S t a t io n (1,576 m), rises above an Orang Asli
village to the north of Tanah Rata and
dominates the northwestern horizon.
. Sam Poh Temple 3 All Souls’ Church, erected in
This ornate Chinese-Buddhist temple is situated on a hill 1958, serves as a civilian church as
overlooking the town of Brinchang. Protected by gilded well as the Anglican retreat center at
lions and temple guardians, it serves as the main place Cameron Highlands.
of worship for the local Chinese.

James Birch, the first British epidemic of influenza during

Resident in Perak. A short the mansion’s construction.
distance from the Old Town Grateful for this act, the workers
center is Darul Ridzuan added a small statue of Smith
Museum. Set in a stately 1920s amid the Hindu deities on the
mansion, it briefly recounts the temple roof.
history of Ipoh and the rise of
the tin-mining industry in Perak.
The New Town, on the right 9 Pulau Pangkor
bank of the river, contains 51 miles (83 km) SW of Ipoh.
some splendid Chinese * 25,000. ~ @ from Kuala
shophouses and most of the Lumpur. g from Lumut. n Jalan
city’s accommodations. Titi Panjang, Lumut, (05) 683-4057.
∑ pulau-pangkor.com
E Darul Ridzuan Museum
Jalan Panglima. Tel (05) 241-0048. Endowed with a laid-back feel
Open 9am–5pm daily. and some of the best beaches
on the west coast of the
peninsula, Pulau Pangkor is a
8 Kellie’s Castle popular destination. The island
Birch Memorial Clock Tower standing in 19 miles (30 km) S of Ipoh. Tel (05)
is inhabited by a thriving fishing
Ipoh’s Old Town 255-2772. @ 67 from Gopeng Station. community. Most of the local
Open 8:30am–7pm daily. & - = villages, including Pangkor Town,
7 Ipoh the main settlement, lie on its
128 miles (205 km) N of Kuala Lumpur
A unique fusion of Scottish east coast, while the resorts,
on North–South Hwy. * 625,000. castle and Moorish architecture, fishing villages, and stunning
~ £ @ n 7–9 Jalan Medan Kellie’s Castle is an unfinished powder-white beaches are
Istana 3, (05) 255-2772. _ colonial structure. It was built by strung out on the west, around
International Orchid Festival (Jun/ Scotsman William Kellie-Smith, Teluk Nipah. The main beaches
Aug). ∑ ipoh-online.com.my who made a fortune in the include Pasir Bogak, Coral Bay,
rubber business in the 19th and Pantai Puteri Dewi, which is
Nestled in the limestone cliffs century. The mansion was privately owned and requires an
of Kinta Valley, Ipoh is the state envisioned as a spectacular entrance fee. The beach at Teluk
capital of Perak and Malaysia’s edifice, complete with an Ketapang, or Turtle Bay, at the
third-largest city. It was built on elevator, and work began in northern end of the island, is
profits from the valley’s rich tin 1915. However, Smith died of named for the increasingly rare
mines, which were developed pneumonia in 1926, leaving his sea turtles that come ashore here
by immigrant Chinese workers grand home incomplete. During in the summer to lay their eggs.
in the late 19th century. This World War II, the castle grounds Offering a change of scene
influx of people bequeathed were used as an execution site from the beaches is the
to the city some of the finest by the Japanese. Today, it is a historical site of Kota Belanda, a
Peranakan architecture seen crumbling attraction set in a 17th-century Dutch fort 2 miles
in the country. park with fig and banyan trees. (3 km) south of Pangkor Town.
The Kinta River divides Also in the grounds is a Hindu The fort was built mainly to
Ipoh into two neat halves. temple built by Smith for his protect Dutch interests in the tin
Occupying the left bank is the largely Tamil labor force. The trade from Malay pirates. Be
Old Town, the most atmos- temple was built after many warned, though, that very little
pheric part of the city. It boasts Tamil workers were killed in an of the fort remains. Pangkor’s
elegant Chinese mansions and
shophouses, as well as grand
colonial buildings. Built in 1917,
Ipoh Railway Station is a blend
of late Victorian and Moorish-
Islamic styles. Directly opposite
stands the Dewan Bandaran, or
Town Hall, a dazzling white
Neo-Classical structure. Other
prominent landmarks near the
station include the mock-Tudor
Royal Ipoh Club with its half-
timbered walls and mullioned
windows, and the historical
landmark Birch Memorial Clock
Tower erected in memory of Remains of the striking Kellie’s Castle
Ling Nam Temple, the oldest

Chinese temple in Perak, as well
as All Saints’ Church, the oldest
church in Malaysia. Taiping also
has a number of well-preserved
Chinese shophouses.
E Perak Museum
Tel (05) 242-6906. Open 9am–6pm
daily. Closed 12:15–2:45pm Fri.
w Lenggong Valley
62 miles (100 km) N of Ipoh on North–
The picturesque Lake Gardens in Taiping, near the foot of Bukit Larut South Hwy. ∑ perak.gov.my/en
compact size makes it ideal for cave to a balcony which offers Designated a UNESCO World
walking and cycling, although its splendid views across the valley. Heritage Site in 2012, the
densely forested interior remains The temple also doubles as a Lenggong Valley is one of
largely inaccessible. Chinese art center. A more Malaysia’s most important
The resorts arrange fishing recent temple, Kek Lok Tong, is areas for archaeology. The
and snorkeling day trips to the set in a two-tiered cavern and valley has four archaeological
small islands nearby. Among has a bronze Laughing Buddha. sites in two clusters that span
these is Pangkor Laut, home to almost 2 million years. Lenggong
Emerald Bay, one of Malaysia’s is the oldest known site of
most beautiful beaches, though q Taiping human activity in Malaysia,
access is restricted to residents 40 miles (70 km) N of Ipoh. * 220,000. and also the oldest outside the
of the island’s exclusive resort. £ from Ipoh. @ n 355 Jalan Kota; African continent.
(05) 806-9487. _ Taiping Festival Lenggong Valley features
Month (Sep). ∑ perak.gov.my/en both open-air and cave sites
0 Kinta Valley with Paleolithic tool workshops,
9 miles (15 km) N of Ipoh, off
Although the name Taiping as well as evidence of early
North–South Hwy. @ from Ipoh. means everlasting peace in technological and cultural
n (05) 255-2772. 0 Chinese, the old state capital of remains from the Paleolithic,
Perak traces its origins to a Neolithic, and Metal ages. The
Once rich with tin ore, the turbulent past, marked by bitter valley’s most famous find was
magnificent jungle-topped feuds between rival Chinese the complete skeleton of Perak
limestone cliffs of Kinta secret societies. The country’s Man, which is more than 11,000
Valley shelter a number of first tin-mining center and years old. It is currently on
caves, which, over the the most important town display at the National Museum
years, have been in Perak in the mid-19th in Kuala Lumpur (see p72). Other
converted into Buddhist century, it began to be artifacts excavated in the area
temples and are now overshadowed by Ipoh are displayed in the Lenggong
popular pilgrimage and Kinta Valley in the Archaeological Museum.
centers. The oldest 1890s. Now a low-key
and largest cave town, with a distinctly
temple is Sam Poh Chinese feel, Taiping is
Tong. Established by a Bronze Buddha at best known for its
Buddhist monk in the Kek Lok Tong vast, tranquil Lake
late 19th century, it Gardens, or Taman
features Chinese-style Tasik Taiping. A stroll around the
Mahayana Buddhist images. town will reveal some attractive
More impressive is Perak Tong, colonial architecture, best
one of the largest Chinese exemplified by the District
temples in Malaysia, founded in Office. It is also home to Perak
1926. Its interior walls are Museum, the oldest museum in
adorned with murals done by the country, built in 1883.
artists from across Southeast Housed in a grand colonial
Asia. The main chamber building, it is noted for its
contains over 40 Buddha natural history and ethnological
statues and a huge bell exhibits, as well as a fine
believed to be more than a collection of keris, or traditional
century old. A series of 400 Malay daggers. Next door to Displays at Lenggong
steps leads up and through the the museum is the colorful Archaeological Museum
e Kuala Kangsar
31 miles (50 km) NW of Ipoh, off
North–South Hwy. * 40,000. £
from Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown.
@ from Ipoh and Taiping. n (05)
529-0894. _ Sultan’s Birthday (Apr
19). ∑ perak.gov.my/en
Kuala Kangsar in Perak has been

the royal capital of the sultans of
Perak for the last 200 years.
In the 1870s, it became the first
foothold for the British in
Malaysia, who initiated their
control of the peninsula by The distinctive clock tower at the Kuala Kangsar town center
installing Residents, or colonial
officers, at the royal courts. mengkuang woven cloth, “the Eton of the East.” Across the
During the same period, the bamboo products, and the road from the Malay College
town became the birthplace celebrated labu, or gourd- stands Pavilion Square Tower.
of Malaysia’s rubber industry shaped earthenware pots. These Built in 1930, this small wooden
when Sir Hugh Low, then British are manufactured in the village three-story structure, designed
Resident in Perak, planted of Sayong, which is located in colonial and Malay styles,
the first seeds of across the river and can enabled the royal family and
rubber. By the 1890s, be reached by boat. The British dignitaries to view polo
however, the town’s new town is dominated matches and other sports
prestige as an admin- by Chinese shophouses events in privacy.
istrative and financial and modern buildings,
center was eclipsed by including most of Kuala U Masjid Ubudiah
the tin-trading towns Kangsar’s restaurants. Jalan Istana.
of Ipoh and Taiping. Marking the center of To the east of Kuala Kangsar,
Today a tranquil town, town are two colonial- along the wide Sungai Perak, an
Kuala Kangsar remains Crafting labu, era structures, the ornamental gateway leads to
steeped in Malay Sayong village distinctive clock tower Masjid Ubudiah, Perak’s royal
tradition and is home to and the District Office, mosque and one of the finest
one of the most attractive royal whose grounds still contain one examples of Islamic architecture
districts in the country, as well as of the town’s first rubber trees. in Malaysia. Gracing the slopes
some fine colonial architecture To the north of the town of the grassy Bukit Chandan, the
and lovely gardens. All the main center is one of the most striking mosque is built in
sights are within walking distance impressive colonial buildings in Moorish style. Its magnificent
of each other and can be Kuala Kangsar, the Malay golden onion-shaped dome is
explored in half a day. College. Opened in 1905 during closely surrounded by four
The small town center can the reign of Sultan Idris, it was soaring white minarets, each
be divided into old and new the first Malay school to provide crowned with its own small
sections. The older part, close to English education to the local dome. Construction of the
the banks of the Sungai Perak, is elite who were hoping to join mosque began during the reign
a good place to buy traditional the colonial administrative of Sultan Idris but was not
Malay handicrafts, such as service, and is now considered completed until 1917, the first
year of the reign of his suc-
cessor, Sultan Abdul Jalil. The
delays were partly due to World
War I, and partly due to two
royal elephants running amok
and destroying the imported
Italian marble floor.
Next to the mosque is the
Royal Mausoleum, where rulers
of Perak have been interred
since the 18th century.
The interior of the mosque is
officially closed to non-Muslims.
However, visitors are free to
explore the grounds of the
mosque and are permitted to
The magnificient Masjid Ubudiah, Perak’s royal mosque photograph the building.
E Istana Iskandariah
Jalan Istana.
Perched at the summit of Bukit
Chandan, overlooking the
Sungai Perak and Masjid
Ubudiah, the modern Istana
Iskandariah was built in 1933
and is the official residence of
the present royal family. Set
amid rolling lawns, the imposing
white marble palace, with its
series of towers topped by
golden domes, reflects a fusion
of Moorish and 1930s colonial
Art Deco styles. A less impressive
annex was added on the
southern side in 1984. Although
the palace is not open to visitors, Façade of the grand Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, a state museum
a stroll along the two small
roads that form its boundary panels and intricate friezes. The prestigious girls’ college Sekolah
provides excellent views of the roof features five ridges and is Raja Perempuan Mazwin, or
building and its lawns, especially surmounted by a symbolic row Mazwin School for Ladies, for
from the riverside. of bananas. The ground floor of several decades. The palace has
the palace features extensive now been converted into the
E Istana Kenangan verandas that allow cool breezes Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah, or
Jalan Istana. Open 9:30am–5pm to flow through the entire space. Sultan Azlan Shah Museum, a
Sat–Thu. Closed 12:15–2:45pm Fri. & The erstwhile palace now houses Perak state museum. Exhibits
Just to the southwest of Istana the Perak Royal Museum, showcase traditional handicrafts
Iskandariah stands the smaller popularly known as Muzium Di of the state including a fine
but more captivating Istana Raja, which traces the history of collection of traditional keris, or
Kenangan, or Palace of Perak and its royal family through Malay daggers, and examples of
Memories. This palace was built images and artifacts. tekat embroidery. Most
in 1931 for Sultan Iskandar Shah significant, however, is the
(1876–1938) as a temporary E Istana Hulu museum’s extensive collection
royal residence while the Jalan Istana. Open 9:30am–5pm of royal gifts, photographs, and
Istana Iskandariah was being daily. & other personal effects belong-
constructed. It is a superb The beautiful Victorian-style ing to Azlan Shah, the present
example of traditional Malay Istana Hulu is another former Sultan of Perak, who has also
architecture. The structure is built palace that was built in 1903 for served as the ninth Yang
entirely of wood without the use Sultan Idris, the 28th sultan of di-Pertaun Agong, or King of
of an architectural plan, nails, Perak. When the palace ceased Malaysia, from 1984 to 19 94, a
or steel, and is decorated with to function as a royal residence, rotating position held by sultans
geometric-patterned bamboo it became the location of the of the various states.
The beautiful Istana Kenangan, built in traditional Malay style, now housing the Perak Royal Museum
Old rickshaws at the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion in Georgetown, Penang
r Georgetown P Weld Quay Clan Piers

Jalan Pengkalan Weld. @ from
Located on the northeastern coast of Penang, and a UNESCO Komtar. g
World Heritage Site since 2007, Georgetown is one of South of Little India, along Weld
Malaysia’s most visited cities. Founded in 1786 by Captain Quay and projecting into the
southern channel of the Strait of
Francis Light as a base for the British East India Company in Malacca, stand long rows of
the Malay states, the town, which was named after the Prince jetties on which are built low
of Wales, soon developed into the state’s economic and houses, religious shrines, and
cultural hub. An essentially Chinese city today, Georgetown shops. These are the clan jetties
has an authentic Straits Settlement atmosphere, enhanced by of Georgetown, dating back to
the late 19th century. There are
its well-preserved colonial architecture, traditional wooden
seven such jetties, all but one
shophouses, and the diverse cuisine developed by its Indian, home to a different Chinese
Malay, Peranakan, Thai, and European communities.
L E B U H FA R Q U H A R
P Fort Cornwallis is of Dutch origin and dates J A L A N S U L TA N A
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Lebuh Light. @ from Komtar on Cat back to 1603. D
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Tel (04) 261-0262. Open 9am–7pm In a small traffic circle to AH
J A L A N A RG Y
daily. & -
JA
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colonial core of Georgetown, style dome. Built in 1897 D
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exploration of the city on Georgetown towkay, or LE
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foot, by bicycle, or by Chinese businessman,
JA
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stockade, but in 1805 this Victoria’s reign. The memo-
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the harbor. As the first Kota Lama, or the Old City H NA
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headquarters of the
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Victoria Memorial colonial buildings to the N

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British East India

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tained barracks, a signal the Dewan Undangan Negeri,

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station, administrative offices, or State Legislative Building, and UH
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and a Christian chapel. Today, the grand Dewan Bandaran, or OR
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little remains of the fort apart City Hall. To the north, facing BU
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scattered with cannon. The Esplanade, named Jalan Tun
oldest of these, Seri Rambai, Syed Sheh Barakbah. clan, originally from the Tong
An district of China’s Fujian
province. The oldest and largest
is the Chew Jetty, founded in the
1870s, followed by the Lee, Tan,
Yeoh, and Koay jetties. The most
recent, the Mixed Clan and Peng
Aun jetties, date from the 1960s.
Six are home to Sino-Malaysian
Buddhist clans, while the last,
Koay Jetty, is Muslim, being
home to around 30 Chinese Hui
Muslim families. All the jetties
except Koay terminate in small
temples. The most important
one, on Chew Jetty, is dedicated
The city skyline, with modern pavilions along the waterfront to the Jade Emperor.
GEORGETOWN 107
 Khoo Kongsi Temple VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Medan Cannon. @ from Komtar.
Open 9am–5pm daily. & Practical Information
∑ khookongsi.com.my Penang Island. * 220,000.
Penang’s greatest historical n Komtar. _ Penang Inter-
attraction, the gloriously ornate national Dragon Boat Festival
Khoo Kongsi Temple, was (Jun), Pesta Pulau Penang
founded in 1835 by wealthy (Nov–Dec), Chingay (Dec).
∑ visitpenang.gov.my
Hokkien merchants of the
influential Khoo clan. The Transport
temple’s full name, Leong San k £ to Butterworth, then ferry.
Tong Khoo Kongsi, or Dragon @ free CAT bus from Komtar for
Mountain Hall, was chosen Georgetown. g
in honor of the merchants’
One of the jetties at Weld Quay Clan Piers ancestral village of Leong San
E&O
Hotel in southern China. clan took this as an indication of
divine wrath at the building of a
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temple too grand for ancestor

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NG K
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Penang
Rebuilt in Qing dynasty style,
BAR A K
Supreme
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BU Court LE
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JALA
Cathedral of the FA H
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Assumption UH
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St.George’s HT
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NT
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with intricate carvings

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P EN 0 meters 300 One of the oldest buildings in
LA
N Georgetown
JA 0 yards 300 Georgetown, Masjid Melayu
1 Fort Cornwallis mosque was founded in 1808
2 Weld Quay Clan Piers Kongsis are designed to function by a prosperous Sumatran pep-
3 Khoo Kongsi Temple as places of worship and per merchant. It was originally
4 Masjid Melayu community centers for members built to serve the burgeoning
5 Syed Alatas Mansion of the clan that built them. This Muslim community of Lebuh
6 Masjid Kapitan Keling kongsi, however, became a Aceh, Penang’s first urban Malay
7 Sri Mariamman Temple center not just for the Khoos, but village, and was a center of Hajj
8 Little India for four other powerful Hokkien- travel in the 19th century. The
9 Pinang Peranakan Mansion
speaking families, the Cheah, nearby Masjid Kapitan Keling
0 Kuan Yin Temple
Lim, Tan, and Yeoh clans, who was built by Indian-Muslim
ran an influential secret society. migrants in 1801 and has been
q St. George’s Church
The original temple, thought added to over the centuries.
w Penang Museum and
too modest for the thriving The mosque, a 5-minute walk
Art Gallery
Khoo clan, was demolished in from Lebuh Chulia, has an
e Cathedral of the Assumption
1894. A magnificent new Egyptian-style minaret and an
r 100 Cintra Street temple was constructed over Achenese-style roof. The hole
t Hainan Temple the next eight years, but it halfway up its minaret was the
y Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion burned to the ground within a result of a cannonball fired in a
u E & O Hotel month of its completion. The clan riot in Penang.
Hindu temple. Dedicated to the

deity Mariamman, or Great
Powerful Mother, this is
Penang’s oldest Hindu temple.
Established by pious local
Tamils as a simple shrine, it
became a fully-fledged temple
in 1833. Artisans were brought
from Madras to create images of
the goddess Mariamman in all
her aspects. Subsequently, a
23-ft- (7-m-) high gopuram was
added, with sculptures of about
38 Hindu deities. A statue of Lord
Murugan, adorned with gold
and diamonds, was also installed.
Several times a year, Sri
The 19th-century Syed Alatas Mansion Mariamman is taken out of the
temple in a wooden chariot,
E Syed Alatas Mansion altered on several occasions, and carried in procession
128 Lebuh Armenian. @ most notably in 1910 when through the streets of Little India.
Syed Mohammed Alatas was a it was given its present The most important occasion is
wealthy and influential appearance with the addition of Navaratri, a nine-night celeb-
19th-century Achenese Indian-style copper domes, ration in October or November
businessman and leader of turrets, and a minaret. A when devotees worship female
Penang’s Malay community. In madrassa, or religious school, deities, such as Durga, Saraswati,
the 1860s he built a magnificent was added in 1916. In 1935, the Lakshmi, and Mariamman.
rumah besar, or great house, on height of the central prayer hall Penang’s annual Thaipusam (see
Armenian Street where he lived was doubled, allowing more p35) procession also begins here.
with his family until his death in natural light and air into the
the early 20th century. Set in a interior. The most recent P Little India
walled compound, the two- renovation took place in 2003, Lebuh Pasar. @ 0
story Syed Alatas Mansion is an when Arabic calligraphy was ∑ tourism penang.gov.my
eclectic mix of Malay, Indian, added to the interior of the Penang’s colorful and vibrant
and European architectural and main dome and to the walls. Little India, throbbing with
cultural influences and is con- Women entering the mosque are antiquity and tradition, dates
sidered one of the finest required to wear headscarves. back to the early 19th century,
examples of upper-class Malay when Indian migrants to
Muslim residences in Penang.  Sri Mariamman Temple Penang began to settle in and
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. @ around Lebuh Pasar, then called
U Masjid Kapitan Keling Open 6am–9pm daily. _ Thaipusam Kadai Teru, or shop street.
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. (Jan/Feb), Navaratri (Oct/Nov). Since most of the early migrants
Tel (04) 261-6663. @ n Islamic On the opposite side of the were Tamils, the area was com-
Information Center. Open 3–5pm Fri, street from Kapitan Keling monly known as Little Madras,
1–5pm Sat–Thu. Closed prayer times. Mosque is the Sri Mariamman but over the years other
Masjid Kapitan Keling, the Temple, a typical southern Indian communities also moved in.
oldest and best-known historic temple with an elaborately Soon the enclave acquired a
mosque in Penang, was carved and painted gopuram, or distinctive south Asian feel and
founded around 1800 by tiered entrance gateway of a gained its current sobriquet.
Caudeer Mohudeen. He was
a prominent member of the
island’s Indian Muslim com-
munity and bore the title Kapitan
Keling, or Captain of the Kelings.
Keling was a term employed at
that time to describe Tamil
Muslims, also called Chulia, who
formed the bulk of Penang’s
Indian Muslims. Mohudeen,
officially named headman of the
Chulias in 1801, died in 1834.
His tomb is located at the
nearby Kampung Kolam. The
mosque has been restored and The ornate domes and graceful façade of Masjid Kapitan Keling
GEORGETOWN 109
The narrow streets of Little India

are lined with shops selling all
kinds of south Asian produce,
from saris and gold jewelry to
flower garlands and images of
Hindu deities. The wide range of
shops and services includes
astrologers, millers, grocers, fruit-
sellers, herb dealers, and money
changers. The aroma of spice,
incense, and curry fills the air,
while the bells of trishaw drivers
and constant bustle of the
crowds make the ambience
quintessentially Indian. Ornate interior of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion
Although Bahasa Malaysia and
English are the main spoken fortune, and fertility, she is 1886, to mark the centenary of
languages of Penang, here, the portrayed with 18 arms. Feast the founding of Penang and to
rolling, fast-paced southern days are held to honor Kuan honor Sir Francis Light, a small
Indian tongues of Malayalam Yin’s birthday, initiation, and Greek-style domed pavilion was
and Tamil predominate. With attainment of nirvana. Even built on the church grounds. The
attractions that include today, the temple bustles with tall octagonal steeple of the
mosques, Hindu temples, and worshipers carrying ritual Neo-Classical church once
Chinese clan enclaves, as well as offerings of flowers, oil, and dominated the town, although
a host of restaurants, Little India food, especially on temple days. today the graceful structure is
is now a great draw for food- These fall on the first and 15th overshadowed by towering
lovers, heritage enthusiasts, and day of every lunar month, and commercial buildings. Farther
visitors who simply want to soak on the 19th day of the second, west on Lebuh Farquhar is the
up the atmosphere. sixth, and ninth lunar months. Protestant Cemetery, where
Puppet shows and Chinese Sir Francis Light is buried in a
P Pinang Peranakan opera performances are held on gazebo-like tomb shaded by
Mansion these days to honor the goddess. frangipani trees.
29 Lebuh Gereja. Tel (04) 264 2929.
Open 9:30am–5pm daily. & 5 St. George’s Church
This private museum, a Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 261-2739.
re-creation of an ornate @ Open 8:30am–12:30pm &
Peranakan villa from the 1:30–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 8:30am–
19th century, is a fascinating 4:30pm Sun. 7 5
glimpse into times past. Full of The oldest Anglican church in
antique furniture and jewelry, it Southeast Asia, St. George’s
is well worth booking a tour Church was constructed in 1818
guide to fully understand the to serve the growing Christian
exhibits on display, from community of Penang. Designed
beautiful Nyonya clothes to by military engineer and painter
the ornate furniture that Captain Robert Smith, it was
decorates every room. built by the British East India St. George’s Church with its Doric columns
Company using convict labor. In and octagonal steeple
 Kuan Yin Temple
Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling. @
Open 9am–6pm daily. Sir Francis Light
Dedicated to Kuan Yin, or the Born in Suffolk, England, in 1740, Francis Light
goddess of mercy, this temple joined the British East India Company in 1765.
was originally constructed as a Directed to find a suitable island base for their
shared Hokkien and Cantonese commercial activities in Southeast Asia, he chose
temple and community center. Pulau Penang, which he then acquired from the
Its foundation stone was laid in Sultan of Kedah in 1786. Having successfully
1800, making it one of the established a colony, he served as its super-
oldest Chinese temples in the intendent until his death in 1794 of malaria. He was
province of Penang. buried at the Protestant Cemetery at Lebuh Farquhar.
Kuan Yin is perhaps the As closely linked to Penang’s growth as Sir Stamford
most worshiped of Chinese Raffles is to Singapore’s, Sir Francis Light is still
deities, and also much revered honored as a founding father. His statue now
by Buddhists and Taoists. Sir Francis Light stands at Georgetown’s Fort Cornwallis.
Associated with peace, good
E 100 Cintra Street

100 Cintra Street. Tel (04) 261-3321.
Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8
-=
Located in the heart of
Chinatown, this is a Peranakan-
influenced mansion that was
built in 1897 by a local woman
of Thai origin. Partially destroyed
by fire in 1984, it was rebuilt
using as much of the surviving
structure as possible, and was
reopened in 1999 as a shopping
center specializing in antiques
and artifacts. It also has a small
The stately gray exterior of the Cathedral of the Assumption tea shop.
Since then it has undergone
E Penang Museum and originally from Phuket, had fled several changes, and today
Art Gallery to Kuala Kedah in 1781 with the first floor of the three-story
Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 261-3144. Bishop Garnault of Siam building functions as an antique
@ Open 9am–5pm daily. & 7 to escape religious perse- and curio center offering a
∑ penangmuseum.gov.my cution. In Kuala Kedah, they fascinating selection of
Located next to St. George’s were joined by Catholics of 19th-century furniture, pictures,
Church in the former Penang Portuguese descent. The group, porcelain, brassware, calligraphy,
Free School, this small museum led by Garnault, arrived in paintings, and carpets. The
houses an excellent collection of Georgetown on the eve of the second floor functions as a
maps, records, and Feast of the Assumption budget guesthouse, while the
displays charting the in 1786. His mission third floor has been converted
growth of Penang was later relocated into a folk museum, focusing on
since the arrival of to Penang. the history and culture of
Sir Francis Light. Although this Penang, with special emphasis
The first floor imposing gray on the Peranakan, or Straits
showcases the structure, built Chinese community. Indian and
various ethnic along classical Malay items are also on display.
groups that British East India Company lines, was not
constitute Penang’s insignia, Penang Museum and erected at Lebuh  Hainan Temple
population, with Art Gallery Farquhar until 1857, Lebuh Muntri. Tel (04) 262-0202.
exhibits of clothing, it was nonetheless Popularly known as the Hainan
photographs, household items, named in memory of the arrival Temple, the bustling Thean
and artifacts associated with the of these first parishioners. The Ho Keong, which means
island’s Peranakan, Malay, cathedral houses Penang’s only Temple of the Heavenly Queen,
Chinese, and Indian commu- pipe organ. In 1955, it was is dedicated to Mar Chor,
nities. The second floor is elevated by Vatican decree to the patron saint of seafarers.
devoted to Penang’s history with the status of Cathedral of the Commonly known as Matsu in
special emphasis on the colonial Diocese of Penang. China and Thien Hau in Vietnam,
era, the Japanese occupation,
the Chinese and Indian settle-
ments, and the gaining of
independence. The art gallery
features 19th-century paintings
of Penang by Robert Smith, the
architect of St. George’s Church.
5 Cathedral of the
Assumption
Lebuh Farquhar. 7 ^ 5
The city’s premier Catholic place
of worship, the stately Cathedral
of the Assumption was founded
to serve the Eurasian Catholics
who had moved to Penang
following Sir Francis Light’s
establishment of a British colony
here. The Eurasians, who were Chinese worshiper praying at the colorful altar at Hainan Temple
GEORGETOWN 111
colonial architecture, it boasts a

830-ft (253-m) seafront lawn –
the longest in the world – and
its suites overlook manicured
lawns and lush gardens with a
panoramic view across the Strait
of Malacca. The Victory Annexe,
opened in 2013, is very much in
keeping with its surrounds.
Long a center of Penang’s
social life, the hotel has hosted
eminent guests such as Noel
Coward, Rudyard Kipling,
Hermann Hesse, and Douglas
Fairbanks. Somerset Maugham,
another visitor, referred to the
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, now a luxurious hotel E & O in several of his writings.
Today, it is a great place to eat a
the goddess is worshiped, in louvered and stained-glass light tiffin lunch followed by
particular, wherever the Chinese windows in the Western style, afternoon tea, or to sip a cocktail
settled throughout Southeast cast-iron balusters, and at sunset under the rain trees on
Asia. The temple was initially geometric-patterned floor tiling. the hotel’s private veranda.
established as a clan house for Today, the mansion operates as
overseas Chinese from Hainan an opulent and unique
Island in 1866, although the homestay heritage hotel.
current building dates from
1895. During its centenary P E & O Hotel
celebrations in 1995, the temple 10 Lebuh Farquhar. Tel (04) 222-2000.
was carefully restored and a 0 - = ∑ e-o-hotel.com
new frontage was added with The grande dame of Penang’s
ornate car vings and distinctive hotels, the Eastern & Oriental (see
swirling dragon pillars. p279) is not just one of the most
luxurious, but also one of the
P Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion great historic hotels of Southeast
14 Lebuh Leith. Tel (04) 262-0006. Asia. Popularly called the E & O, it
& for tours. 8 11am, 1:30pm & was established in 1884 by the
3pm daily. ∑ cheongfatttze Armenian Sarkies brothers, who
mansion.com went on to found Singapore’s
This spectacular mansion was Raffles Hotel and Rangoon’s Georgetown’s historic Eastern &
built by Cheong Fatt Tze, a famous Strand. A landmark in Oriental Hotel
young Hakka Chinese entre-
preneur who eventually became
one of Southeast Asia’s richest Five Foot Ways
businessmen. Although he built Originally used by builders from Guangdong in China,
several grand houses, this 1904 this style of Chinese shophouse has long been associated
mansion is considered the most with the former Straits Settlements of Singapore, Penang,
magnificent. Fatt Tze lived here and Melaka. The widespread presence of Five Foot
with three of his favorite wives, Ways in Singapore and urban Malaysia is attributed to
raising eight sons. The house fell Sir Stamford Raffles, who decreed that all shophouses should
into disrepair after his death in have verandas that form continuous and open passages.
1916, but it has since been Characterized by
beautifully restored, winning the load-bearing gable walls
prestigious UNESCO Asia Pacific and massive roof beams
that span the building,
Heritage Award for authentic
these shophouses
restoration in 2000. Said to extend over the narrow
be the largest traditional sidewalks forming a
courtyard house in the region, sort of covered walkway
the building conforms to the and providing shelter
principles of geomancy, and from the sun and the
blends Chinese and Western monsoon rains. The
architectural concepts. Painted a sidewalk can be further
deep blue, the mansion features shaded by lowering split
Qing dynasty latticework and Shop signs over a Five Foot Way bamboo blinds.
filigree ornamentation with
t Dhammikarama Upagutta, an arhat widely monks and serves the small

Temple revered in Burma for his powers. local Thai community, as well
A golden Pagoda Bell Tower as both Theravada and
Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, Pulau opened in May 2011. Mahayana Buddhist devotees
Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of from across the island. Legend
Georgetown. @ Open daily.
has it that the temple’s first
_ Burmese New Year (Apr). y Wat Chaya- abbot, a monk named
The 200-year-old Burmese mangkalaram Phorthan Kuat, or honorable
enclave at Pulau Tikus is home Burma Lane, off Jalan Burma, Pulau
father Kuat, was fond of local
to a spectacular Theravada Tikus, 2 miles (3 km) NW of laksa or spicy noodle soup, and
Buddhist monastery, founded in Georgetown. @ Open 6am–5:30pm even today devotees bring
1803 and known originally as daily. _ Songkran (Apr). bowls of laksa to present as
the Nandy Molah Burmese offerings at his shrine.
Temple. Now called the Popularly known as the Temple
Dhammikarama Temple in of the Reclining Buddha, this is
honor of the dhamma, or the largest Buddhist temple in
corpus of Buddhist teachings, Penang. The name means
this is Penang’s oldest Buddhist temple of auspicious victory.
place of worship. The building dates from 1845,
The temple gateway, well when the Thai community
guarded by a pair of stucco asked the government for land
elephants, leads to a compound on which to build a monastery.
shaded by a peepul tree and The land was granted by the
dotted with mythical figures then Governor of Penang,
and religious icons, among W L Butterworth. The temple
them myriad Buddhas, flying houses a Reclining Buddha
beings, and chimeras. The statue, constructed in 1958 to
ornate red-tiled roof of mark the 2,500th anni-
the temple, embellished versary of the birth of
with gleaming gold Gautama Buddha. The manicured grounds of the Penang
filigree work, is Burmese Called Phra Chaiya Botanic Gardens
in inspiration and visible Mongkol, the statue
from afar. The complex measures an impressive u Penang Botanic
includes monks’ quarters, 108 ft (33 m) in length Gardens
a wishing pool where and is said to be the
visitors toss coins that third-longest Reclining 5 miles (8 km) W on the outskirts of
are later used towards Buddha in the world. Georgetown. @ n (04) 227-0428.
Open 5am–8pm daily. 8 by prior
temple maintenance, Detail on Wat Besides the main
arrangement. 7 special walkways.
and a peaceful prayer Chayamangkalaram shrine hall, the - = _ Flora Festival (Jun).
hall housing a large temple includes a ∑ botanicalgardens.penang.
Burmese-style image of the Thai-style gilded stupa, or gov.my
Buddha. Within the hall are rows chedi, and fierce temple
of finely carved arhats, or guardians called yaksas. The Established by the colonial
spiritual practitioners who had whole complex is distinctively administration in 1884 on the
attained nirvana, created by central Thai in style, down to site of a disused quarry, the
Burmese artisans. The temple the gold-painted pagodas. The beautifully landscaped Penang
also has a shrine to the Arahant temple is attended to by Thai Botanic Gardens are undoubt-
edly the finest botanical gar-
dens in Peninsular Malaysia.
Spread across 72 acres (29 ha) of
land dominated by an attractive
water fall, rain forest-covered
hills, and a small river, the
gardens provide protected
habitat for rare species of plant
and also serve as a green lung
for Georgetown and its people.
The gardens owe their beauty
to the untiring work of Charles
Curtis, who was the first to
nurture and transform the
former granite quarry into a lush
tropical garden and nursery. In
Ornate and colorful façade of the Buddhist Wat Chayamangkalaram 1946, after World War II ended,
the Penang Botanic Gardens

were separated from their
parent establishment in
Singapore and began function-
ing as an independent entity.
Besides their educational
and preservational role, the
gardens are a popular spot for
locals to exercise, jog, or walk in
the refreshingly unpolluted air.
There are two paved trails, the
shorter Lower Circle and the
longer Upper Circle. Surrounding
these are less accessible
forested areas. Botanical
attractions include the Aroid The rich variety of fauna that blankets the Penang Hill
Walkway, featuring plants of the
philodendron family, the 1893 and took Burmese, (830-m) hill still offers a
ornamental plant house, the Chinese, and Thai artisans more refreshing retreat from the
fern house, cactus house, and than two decades to complete. tropical heat of Georgetown.
lily pool. Among the species of Kek Lok Si’s most celebrated Sir Francis Light, the founder of
rare trees seen here are the feature is the magnificent Penang, is said to have ordered
cannonball tree, the candle tree, seven-tier Pagoda of King the construction of a horse track
the baobab, ebony, and the Rama VI, completed in 1930 to the top of the hill in 1788.
argus pheasant tree. The and named after the Thai mon- Today visitors can ride up the hill
gardens also house a nursery of arch who laid the foundation on the Penang Hill Railway, a
commercial plants, such as stone. Also known as the steep funicular line built in 1923
pepper, cloves, and nutmeg. pagoda of ten thousand and still in operation; the original
Buddhas, it stands at a height of wooden coaches can be seen on
100 ft (30 m). This impressive display. Enthusiastic walkers can
i Kek Lok Si pagoda was designed in opt for a 3-hour hike up a tarred
Temple three different styles, with an track that begins at the quarry at
Ayer Itam, 5 miles (8 km) W of
octagonal Chinese-style the entrance of the Penang
Georgetown. @ n (04) 828- base, middle tiers of Thai Botanic Gardens.
3317. Open 8:30am–5:30pm architecture, and a The hill is an area rich in
daily. & - = _ Loy Burmese-style crown, biodiversity and has a number
Krathong (Nov). symbolic of the unity of of rare endemic species.
Mahayana and Theravada Dipterocarp and coniferous
The largest and Buddhism. The trees are common, as are tree
most celebrated temple grounds ferns. The summit offers pano-
Buddhist temple in contain lovely ramic views across the nearby
Malaysia, Kek Lok Si, gardens and sacred Strait of Malacca to Penang
or the temple of ponds, including Bridge, the mainland, and
supreme bliss, is Bronze statue of Kuan Yin, the Sacred Turtle Butterworth. Also on the
spread across a Kek Lok Si Temple Pond where the summit are a colorful Hindu
hilltop overlooking devout release temple and a mosque.
the district of Ayer Itam. Long captive turtles as an act of
sacred to the island’s Chinese spiritual liberation. Dominating
residents, the hills of Ayer Itam all is a massive bronze statue of
are believed by locals to be Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.
geomantically fortuitous and
a suitable retreat for Taoist
devotees seeking immortality. o Penang Hill
The temple was initially Ayer Itam. £ Funicular Railway,
envisioned by the head monk of 6:30am–10pm Mon–Fri,
the Kuan Yin Temple (see p109) 6:30am–11pm Sat & Sun. @ to
on Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kling Funicular Railway terminal. &
and supported by the Chinese
consul in Penang. Later, the idea Malaysia’s oldest hill station,
was backed by the Qing Penang Hill, also known as Bukit
Emperor Guangxu, who gave its Bendera or Flagstaff Hill, was
foundation an imperial tablet first developed in 1897.
and 70,000 volumes of Buddhist Although only one hotel
sutras. Construction began in functions today, the 2,720-ft The Penang Hill Funicular Railway, Malaysia
Boats and jet-skis off the beaches of Batu Ferringhi
p Batu Ferringhi specially designed garden trails of Muka Head, passing the
9 miles (14 km) NW of Georgetown.
lead to 11 separate gardens that scenic Ailing and Duyong bays,
@ 93 from Georgetown. 0 = feature special plant collections heading southwest into the
with signboards indicating their Pantai Aceh Forest Reserve and
Also known as Foreigner’s common and botanical names beyond to Kerachut Beach.
Rock, Batu Ferringhi is Penang’s and their various uses. Just south of the bus station,
premier beachside destination Craft Batik is a handicraft work-
and one of the most developed Y Tropical Spice Garden shop and showroom where
beach strips anywhere in Open 9am–6pm daily. & free for visitors can observe batik being
Malaysia. Facing northwest into children below 4 years. - = made and also shop for sarongs
the Strait of Malacca, the shore and batik paintings. Nearby is
at Batu Ferringhi was once a the Penang Butterfly Farm,
delightful coconut-lined sandy a Teluk Bahang where more than 100 species of
strand and a popular destination 12 miles (19 km) NW of Georgetown. butterflies, along with spiders
for hippies in the 1970s. @ 93 from Georgetown.  and other insects, are on view
However, over the past amid attractive gardens with
three decades, it has changed At the western end of Penang’s varied flora, waterfalls, and
dramatically into a bustling northern beaches sits the small ponds. South of Teluk Bahang,
coastal strip, lined with high- fishing village of Teluk Bahang, the well-maintained Forest
rise hotels and a wide range or sunburned bay. The detritus Recreation Park offers further
of restaurants and shops. of an active fishing industry good opportunities for trekking
Although the beach is clean, litters the sand, and while the and camping in the lush jungle.
the sea is a little murky and beach is not suitable for
filled with jellyfish. The waves swimming, it is an excellent O Penang Butterfly Farm
are not high enough for surfing, place to enjoy fresh seafood. Tel (04) 805-1253. Open 9am–5pm
but this is a good place to Tracks lead westward from the Mon–Fri, 9am–5:30pm Sat & Sun. &
sunbathe and relax. village to the rocky promontory - ∑ butterfly-insect.com
The beach was hit by the
2004 tsunami, but has since
completely recovered. Today,
Batu Ferringhi’s easy accessibil-
ity from Georgetown means
that it is popular with day
visitors and usually busy, espe-
cially at weekends. Prices are
especially low on weekdays and
off-season months (Mar–Oct).
Just a mile (2 km) west of Batu
Ferringhi is the Tropical Spice
Garden, where visitors can view
more than five hundred species
of plants from Malaysia,
Thailand, and Indonesia. Three Fishing boats moored along the shores of Teluk Bahang
s Penang National
honors the memory of a
Park venerated Chinese Buddhist
Jalan Hassan Abbas, Teluk Bahang, monk named Chor Soo Kong
12 miles (19 km) NW of Georgetown. who is said to have had healing
Tel (04) 881-3530. @ 101 or 93 from powers. He was born in China’s
Georgetown. Open 7am–5pm daily. Fujian Province during the reign
& small fee to use canopy walk. of the 11th-century Song
Emperor Renzong. Chor Soo
Located at the northwestern Kong later became an ascetic
tip of the island, with its main seeking spiritual enlightenment,
entrance close to Teluk Bahang, which he attained under the
Penang National Park was guidance of Zen master Ming
founded in April 2003. This is Song. Soon after he practiced as
only the second national park a doctor, catering to the needs
located within the peninsula. of the poor. Chor Soo Kong
Although fairly small and far less retired to a monastery on Peng
well known than Taman Negara, Lai Mountain, where he was
it offers an appealing contrast to sanctified after his death. Offerings at the Sam Poh Footprint Temple
the historical urban sights of According to folklore, the at Batu Maung
Penang, with opportunities for statue of the deified Chor Soo
jungle trekking and spotting Kong was brought to Penang by f Batu Maung
marine turtles among other a monk from China in 1850, and 9 miles (15 km) S of Georgetown.
wildlife that includes flying was enshrined in a temple at @&0-=
squirrels, sea otters, monkeys, Bayan Lepas. When the temple
and more than 150 species of was complete, the pious monk A Chinese fishing village in the
birds. There are also over 1,000 allowed snakes from the sur- southeast of Pulau Penang,
species of plants recorded, rounding jungle to take shelter Batu Maung is known for its
including wild orchids and there. The snakes were veno- fine fresh seafood restaurants
insectivorous pitcher plants. mous Wagler’s pit vipers called and a small aquarium. It is also
The park covers about ular kapak tokong in Malay. famous for the Sam Poh
5 sq miles (13 sq km), offering a Today, these vipers still inhabit Footprint Temple, named for a
not-too-strenuous wilderness the rundown temple, and are its strange footprint-shaped
adventure. Basic but well-marked main attraction, especially indentation in a rock. This
trails lead through lowland during the festival season. footprint reportedly belongs to
dipterocarp forest, mangrove, About 3 ft (1 m) long in 15th-century Chinese Admiral
and sandy beach habitats. A maturity, they are dark green Zheng He, who was locally
canopy walk links two of the with yellow bands. Devotees known as Sam Poh.
trails. An unusual feature is a regard them as harmless He visited Pulau Penang
meromictic lake, with a surface guardian angels of the temple. during his exploration of
layer that does not mix with the Although rarely fatal, the bite of Southeast Asia, the Indian
water below. the vipers is painful. Fortunately, Ocean, and the Red Sea. The
The beaches here are quiet and they are sluggish during the footprint is said to mark the
unspoiled. Visitors can take a boat day, perhaps dulled by the spot where he first stepped
trip from Teluk Bahang to one incense smoke, but are active at ashore. The rock is enshrined
of the most pleasant, Monkey night, when they descend from in the temple. Penang’s second
Beach, named for its crab-eating their perches in the eaves to eat bridge connecting it to the
macaques. There are no refresh- offerings left by the pious. mainland opened here in 2014.
ment facilities in the park, so
take snacks and plenty of water.
d Snake Temple
Bayan Lepas, 7 miles (12 km) S of
Georgetown. @ 66 from Komtar in
Georgetown. Open 7am–7pm daily.
_ anniversary of the birth of Chor
Soo Kong, 6th day of first lunar
month (Jan/Feb).
Named Ban Kah Lan, meaning

the temple of the azure clouds
in the Hokkien dialect, this
highly unusual temple was built
in 1850 by Chinese migrants. It A Buddhist monk praying at the Snake Temple
stone roof supported by pillars. Gunung Jerai. Formerly known

The candi per formed the as Kedah Peak, this massive
function of temples for Hindu forest-clad limestone outcrop
or Buddhist religious activities, that is a part of the Titiwangsa
and honored the deceased Mountain Range is clearly
rulers and members of the visible from the sea. It adds a
royal family. touch of variety to the scenic
The little-visited museum flat plains visible throughout
preserves, chronicles, and the area. In the past, it acted as
explains the various excavations a navigation point for sailors,
as well as displaying collections and was considered sacred by
of artifacts discovered at the the Hindu kingdom of Bujang.
site. These include Chinese It marked the start of a cross-
porcelain, Shiva lingas, statues peninsula portage route bet-
of the Hindu god Ganesh ween the Indian Ocean
and goddess Durga, terra- and the South China
Archaeological remnants, main temple cotta statues, and a Sea that avoided the
Candi Bukit Batu Pahat bronze Buddhist long voyage around
image found here in the Strait of Malacca.
g Lembah Bujang 1976. It is possible to Today, the peak is
16 miles (26 km) NW of Sungai Petani.
see the excavated visited for its pristine
@ 8 ∑ mykedah2.com sites through splendor and pano-
privately arranged Fragment of a stone lintel at ramic forest views.
One of Peninsular Malaysia’s guided tours from Lembah Bujang On the summit is a
most important archaeological the museum. There dilapidated 6th-
sites, the Hindu-Buddhist was national uproar in 2013 century Hindu shrine and bath
remains at Lembah Bujang, or when a developer destroyed called Candi Telaga Sembilan,
Bujang valley, reveal significant some of the candi at the site. or nine pool temple, which was
aspects of a major pre-Islamic There are plans to reconstruct discovered in 1884.
civilization. First excavated by the damaged ruins. Another attraction on the
the British archaeologist mountain is the Muzium
H G Quaritch-Wales in 1936, this E Lembah Bujang Perhutanan, or Forestry
archaeological site stretches Archaeological Museum Museum, which is saturated
over a vast 87-sq-mile (225-sq- Jalan Tanjung Dawai, Merbok. with fragrances from various
km) area extending from Tel (04) 457-2005. Open 9am–5pm types of coniferous and oak
Gunung Jerai to Kuala Muda. daily. Closed noon–2:45pm Fri trees. Run by the Malaysian
Bujang, which derives its (for prayers). 8 ∑ jmm.gov.my Forestry Commission, the
name from a legendary winged museum has exhibits on trees
dragon, was a notable king- of the surrounding Sungai Teroi
dom and port in the 5th h Gunung Jerai Forest Recreation Park, which
century AD. It had trade houses rare orchids and wildlife.
19 miles (30 km) N of Sungai Petani.
relations with India, Srivijaya
Tel (04) 730-1957. @ Open daily. 8 E Forestry Museum
(on Sumatra), and Cambodia, ®0
and was visited by the Chinese Gunung Jerai. Tel (04) 731-2322.
Buddhist monk I-Ching in AD Rising sharply out of the O Sungai Teroi Forest
672. In the 7th century, it was surrounding Kedah plains is the Recreation Park
absorbed into the Srivijaya imposing 3,993-ft (1,217-m) Gunung Jerai. & 8 compulsory.
Empire, and reached its zenith
between the 9th and 10th
centuries, before Islam gained
a foothold on the peninsula.
Over 50 sites have been
excavated in the valley. Among
the finds, the most impressive
are the candi, or two tomb-
temples, which have been
transported and reassembled
at the Lembah Bujang
Archaeological Museum in
nearby Merbok. The 7th-century
Candi Bukit Batu Pahat has a
vimana, or inner sanctuary, with
images of Hindu deities, and
a mandapa, or open hall, with a Misty view above the treetops at Gunung Jerai
k Kuala Kedah
7 miles (12 km) W of Alor Star. *
220,000. @ g
As Kuala means river mouth

in Malay, Kuala Kedah is an
aptly named fishing port that
is located at the northern
bank of its namesake river.
This small town serves as the
convenient southern ferry
point for travelers sailing to
Pulau Langkawi. The crowning
glory of the town is the
The elegant Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, in Alor Star atmospheric Kota Kuala
Kedah, a fort dating to the
j Alor Star produced as an offering to mid-18th century standing on
59 miles (95 km) N of Georgetown.
the Thais in return for their the right bank of Sungai Kedah.
* 205,000. ~ n 179B Kompleks protection. Another reminder of The structure was originally
Alor Star, Lebuhraya Darul Aman, the state’s Siamese connections built to protect the kingdom
(04) 730-1322. ∑ tourism.gov.my is Wat Syam Nikrodharam, a against naval attacks by Siam
Theravada Buddhist temple built (Thailand). However, the Thais
Kedah’s state capital, Alor Star in the unmistakable Thai style, invaded and captured the fort
(also known as Alor Setar), is located at Kampung Telok Sena. in the early 19th century. The
mainly a transit point to Thailand Today, the city’s considerable town is guarded by thick walls
and a junction for the road west Chinese Buddhist population and a moat, and comprises a
to Kuala Kedah, the ferry port worships here. number of buildings including
for Pulau Langkawi. However, the the Royal Audience Hall. Six
city itself, proud birthplace of U Masjid Zahir of the 19th-century British
Malaysia’s first and fourth prime Jalan Sultan Muhamad Jiwa. cannons are on display, resting
ministers, has several attractions. Open daily. Closed noon–3pm Fri on the crumbling walls, facing
Among these is the padang, a (for prayers). the river estuary. Today, Kuala
lovely old colonial town square Kedah is famous for the
E State Museum
surrounded by a number of royal variety of delectable seafood,
Lebuhraya Darul Aman. Tel (04) 733-
and religious buildings. Look out especially laksa, served at
1162. Open Sat–Thu. Closed noon–
for the Balai Besar, or the royal the numerous restaurants all
3pm Fri (for prayers).
audience hall, which stands on over town.
tall pillars embellished with
Victorian iron lacework. The
unique Balai Nobat, or drum Orang Syam
hall, is an eight-sided tower Malaysians of Thai ethnic origin, known in Malay as Orang Syam,
topped by an onion-shaped have lived in northern Malaysia for centuries. When and how
dome. The building houses they came to settle in this predominantly Malay-speaking region
the Kedah Royal Orchestra. remains unclear. Their dialect suggests that their roots go back
Masjid Zahir, or state mosque, at least four centuries to the Narathiwat province which neighbors
incorporates elegant Moorish Thailand. The Orang Syam are recognized as bumiputras, or
designs in its five black domes indigenous Malaysians, having the
and slender minarets. Built in same rights and status as Muslim
1912, this is one of the oldest Malays. They settled primarily in
mosques in Malaysia. The prosperous kampung syams, or
mosque welcomes non-Muslim Siamese villages in Kedah, Kelantan,
visitors who are dressed Perak, Penang, and Perlis, dwelling
appropriately. harmoniously with their Muslim
More interesting is the neighbors. One easy way to identify
a kampung syam is the presence of
Muzium Negeri, or the State
elaborately sited Buddhist temples.
Museum, located a mile (2 km)
They have quintessentially Thai
north of the padang. It displays curved roofs, lavishly gilded pagodas,
exhibits dating back to the 19th tinkling wind-chimes, and edifices
century when Kedah was a of the Buddha in various postures.
tributary of neighboring Siam The five-centuries-old temple at
(now known as Thailand). Look Kampung Jubakar claims to have the
out for the pokok bunga emas, a largest Seated Buddha image in Orang Syam people working in
beautiful, intricately wrought Southeast Asia. the fields
little tree made of gold,
l Pulau Langkawi
Set in the heart of an archipelago of some 100 islands
and islets in the Andaman Sea, Pulau Langkawi is one of
Malaysia’s most popular destinations. Fringed with sandy
beaches and forested hills in the interior, it is also one of the
most beautiful. A number of idyllic resorts and spas offer
soothing retreats, while a range of sporting activities, such
as waterskiing, diving, and trekking, attract adventurous
visitors. Kuah, the small bustling capital, is a good jumping-
off point for Langkawi’s other sights.
Langkawi Sky Bridge
This suspended walkway at the
top station of the Langkawi Cable
Car affords magnificent views.
Tasik Pasir
Pantai Datai Tengorak
The Datai Teluk
Datai Jetty
Els Club
Teluk Datai
Langkawi
Gunung Crocodile
Telega Tujuh Falls Machinchang
Farm
Literally meaning seven wells, Telega Tujuh is a 2,315 ft
cascading waterfall – an ideal site for bathing

and picnics.
Telaga
ng
Harbor Park
ta
Kuala Beras
Pe
Teriang Terbakar
Pantai Padang
Kok Matsirat
Langkawi
International
Airport
Bon Ton Kedawang
Pulau Temonyong
Re bak
P a nt a i Underwater
. Pantai Cenang Cena ng World
This long strip of sandy beach has numerous beach P a nt a i

chalets and a fine selection of restaurants and bars. T enga h
P u la u
T ep o r
Star Cruise
Pulau Payar Jetty
The Legend of Tasik Dayang Bunting 20 miles (32 km)
Tasik Dayang Bunting, or lake

of the pregnant maiden, is a
freshwater lake set amid the
limestone cliffs and dense
forests of Pulau Dayang 0 km 5
Bunting, the second-largest 0 miles 5
island in the archipelago. A
legend revolves around the
tragic tale of Princess Mahsuri
who claimed she became A boat on Tasik Dayang Buntin
pregnant by drinking from
the lake. She was then falsely accused of adultery and executed.
The legendary crocodile which inhabits the lake is said to be
Mahsuri’s child. Local women still come here to pray for children.
For hotels and restaurants see p279 and 292–3

PULAU LANGK AWI 119
The Langkawi Birds VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Paradise
Located at Belanga Practical Information
Pecah, this lush tro- 19 miles (30 km) W of Kuala Perlis.
*120,000. n Jalan Persian
pical garden is
home to at least 150 Putra, Kuah; (04) 966-7186.
∑ naturallylangkawi.my
species of birds,
The Durian Perangin including Transport
Waterfall cascades hornbills, kg
through 14 levels toucans, and
and is a popular flamingos.
picnic spot.
Gua Cerita
Pu l au
G as i ng
Tanjung Rhu
P u la u
Pasir
Pulau
Panta Pasir L aggun
Teluk Hitam
Ewa Galeria
Perdana
Kompleks
Budaya Pulau Tanjung
Kraf Air
De ndang
Hangat
Village
Belanga
Kampung Buku
Pecah
. Gunung Raya
Malaysia Gunung Raya Literally the great mountain, Gunung Raya is
2,890 ft the highest peak in the archipelago. Its
p
Kisap
sa
summit offers fine views across the

Ki
Ulu Melaka Andaman Sea.
Kuah
Kuah Jetty
Langkawi Penerah Pulau Timon
Golf Club
Pul au Pu lau Bumbun

Dayan g Kuala Perlis Masjid al-Hana
Bun ti n g
Kuala Kedah The largest mosque on Pulau
Pulau Tiloi
Langkawi, the golden domes of
Penang Masjid al-Hana tower over Kuah, the
Pul au
Gua Langsir island’s capital.
T uba
. Tomb of
Mahsuri
This quiet shrine Key
was built in memory
of Princess Mahsuri Major road
who was executed Minor road
at this spot after Ferry route
being unjustly
Cable car route
accused of adultery.
Peak

Exploring Pulau Langkawi structure. According to legend,

Mahsuri was unjustly accused
The largest among a cluster of tropical islands, Pulau of adultery and sentenced to
Langkawi is a mountainous, palm-fringed island peppered death. Mahsuri was stabbed by
with paddy fields and sandy coves. In the 1980s, Pulau the executioner with her own
keris. Her blood flowed white as
Langkawi was transformed from an isolated, overwhelmingly an indication of her purity, and
Malay rural area, into a duty-free zone in a successful attempt with her dying breath she
to make it a holiday destination, wooing backpackers and cursed the island to seven
upmarket visitors alike. Access to the archipelago by air and generations of bad luck. A tomb
ferry has never been easier, and Langkawi’s excellent road of fine marble was built on the
spot where she was killed. Today,
network makes exploring the island convenient. Once-sleepy
this is honored as a shrine by the
Kuah, Langkawi’s capital, now boasts a slew of shopping islanders. There is also a small
centers, supermarkets, resorts, and luxury hotels catering museum and some traditional
to rising tourist demands. Malay houses to walk around.
} Langkawi Canopy
Adventures
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kuah. @
n 12-466-8027. 0 -
∑ langkawi.travel
One of Malaysia’s most
exhilarating outdoor activities is
offered by Langkawi Canopy
Adventures, where visitors pass
high above the rain forest floor
on the Gunung Raya moun-
tainside. This adrenalin-charged
experience features a 492-ft
(150-m) slide along metal cables
Main street in Kuah lined with shops and cafés and a 98-ft (30-m) vertical rappel.
Pre-activity training is provided
Kuah Langkawi to shop, change on site. They also offer kayaking.
SE Pulau Langkawi. * 94,000. @ g money, and rent vehicles for
n Jalan Persiaran Putra, (04) 966- sightseeing. It also has a vibrant } Pantai Cenang
7789. ( Wed & Sat. Taman Legenda: pasar malam, or night market. 10 miles (16 km) W of Kuah.
Jalan Persiaran Putra, near Kuah Jetty. For those arriving by sea, Kuah @ g 0 - = Underwater
Tel (04) 966-4223. Open 8am–11pm is a useful transit point to Kuala World: Tel (04) 955-6100.
daily. & Perlis, Kuala Kedah, Penang, Open 10am–6pm daily.
Alor Star, and Satun in Thailand. & underwaterworldlangkawi.
Skirting a large bay on the
southeastern tip of the island, com.my
Kuah is Langkawi’s main town P Tomb of Mahsuri A sweep of dazzling white sand,
and travel hub. Originally a small 7 miles (12 km) W of Kuah. Pantai Cenang is the most
fishing village, Kuah is under- Open tomb: 7:30am–6pm daily; popular and developed beach
going rapid development as a show: 11am. & on Pulau Langkawi. Although
result of the island’s growing Dedicated to the memory of a much has changed here since
tourism industry. Malay princess, the tomb of the early 2000s, the beach is not
The most distinguished Mahsuri is a simple white totally spoilt. At its southern end
building in town is the Friday
Congregational Mosque, Masjid
al-Hana, located next to the
tourist office. Built in 1959, the
mosque incorporates Uzbek and
Moorish elements along with
traditional Malay design. Taman
Legenda, a theme park by the
seafront, features sculptures
and exhibits that recount the
archipelago’s history. The
garden overlooks Dataran Lang,
a landscaped square with a
prominent statue of an eagle.
Kuah is the best place on Plaque narrating the story of Princess Mahsuri at the site of her death
PULAU LANGK AWI 121
O Pulau Payar Marine Park

20 miles (32 km) S of Langkawi. g
An hour’s boat ride from Kuah,
the tropical island of Pulau
Payar is popular with keen
divers and snorkelers. Payar
and the smaller islands of
Lembu, Segantang, and Kaca
cluster around coral reefs that
teem with marine life, such as
moray eels, large groupers, and
black-tipped reef sharks.
The Coral Garden in the
sheltered, clear waters off Pulau
Visitors taking a closer look at marine life at Underwater World Payar is enduringly popular
and is said to have the largest
are a number of entertainment island to the sea and number of coral species in
projects, including the vast neighboring Thailand. At an Malaysia. Here visitors can also
Underwater World. This spec- incline of 42 degrees, with a feed baby sharks under the
tacular aquarium is among the vertical rise of 2,231 ft (680 m), supervision of experts. To visit,
largest in Malaysia, with over the ride is among the steepest in it is best to book a day in
5,000 marine species on display. the world. There are two stops, advance with a tour group.
The aquarium also boasts a walk- Middle and Top stations, where
through tunnel and 3D cinema. visitors can alight. } Pulau Dayang Bunting
Pantai Cenang’s night market The rocks here are some of 3 miles (5 km) S of Kuah. g 0 -
is well worth a visit. Markets open Malaysia’s most ancient, at Lying across the Kuah Straits,
in different Langkawi locations 450 million years old. Since Dayang Bunting is the second-
every evening, with Thursday 2007 the whole of Langkawi has largest island in the Langkawi
being market night in Pantai been designated as a UNESCO archipelago. Covered with
Cenang. From 5:30pm to 10pm Geopark, a designation given rain forest and mangroves,
the street opposite Bon Ton to areas of global geological the island boasts over 90
Resort is transformed by a significance. Langkawi’s was species of birds, including
lively mix of hawker food stalls, the first Geopark listing in hornbills, kingfishers, and
souvenir shops, and local farmers Southeast Asia, and while the woodpeckers. The highlight
selling produce. Nearby, Pantai designation extends over the here is the freshwater Tasik
Tengah beach is a southward entire Langkawi archipelago, Dayang Bunting, or lake of the
continuation of Cenang, with a which comprises some 100 pregnant maiden, surrounded
harbour, hotels, and a nightclub. islands, it identifies three by limestone cliffs and dense
primary hotspots: the forests. A legend holds that
} Telaga Tujuh Falls Machinchang Cambrian, the waters of the lake bestow
14 miles (22 km) W of Kilim Karst and Dayang fertility, and local women who
Kuah. Langkawi Cable Bunting Marble want to conceive come here to
Car: Open 10am–7pm geoforest parks. bathe. Visitors can swim in the
daily. & Basketwork at Kompleks lake, explore it by pedalo, or
Set in an attractive Budaya Kraf } Teluk Datai simply picnic by its shores.
spot on the west coast 22 miles (35 km) NW of
of Langkawi, Telaga Tujuh or Kuah. 0 - Ibrahim Hussein
seven wells, is ideal for Museum: Pasir Tengkorak.
freshwater bathing and picnics. Tel (04) 959-4669. Open daily. &
Located west of Pantai Kok, it is Kompleks Budaya Kraf: Teluk Yu.
a 30-minute walk to the seven Tel (04) 959-1917 Open daily. =
waterfalls, which are joined by Teluk Datai on the island’s north
smooth, slippery stone sills that coast offers the most stunning
bathers can slide down. Look vistas on the island, with several
out for the brazen monkeys beautiful beaches scattered
along the way, and keep your along the shore. The lovely bay
bag firmly closed as they may is home to exclusive resorts and
try to steal any food you have. Els Club, a famous golf course.
In the vicinity is the Langkawi Along the coast, the Kompleks
Cable Car, which carries Budaya Kraf, or craft cultural
passengers over ancient rain complex, showcases Malay
forests to the summit of Gunung handicrafts, such as batik, ikat,
Machinchang, at 2,315 ft (706 m), pottery, paintings, and Boats anchored in the waters off Pulau
for fabulous views across the woodcarvings. Dayang Bunting
SOUTHERN PENINSULA
The southern tip of Peninsular Malaysia is also the southern-
most extremity of continental Asia, encompassing Johor and
the often overlooked state of Negeri Sembilan, stronghold of
the Minangkabau culture. Cosmopolitan Melaka, the capital of the
historically significant state of the same name, is on every tourist’s
itinerary, while on the east coast, the sandy beaches and colorful reefs
of Pulau Tioman are a magnet for visitors from around the world.
With only the narrow Strait of Malacca They were followed by Dutch and then
dividing this side of Malaysia from Sumatra, British colonists, alongside Chinese and
there have always been close relations Indian ethnic groups who intermarried
between the two cultures. Negeri Sembilan with Malays to create the distinct
was settled by the Minangkabau people Baba-Nyonya and Chitty communities.
from Sumatra in the 15th century and Melaka is famous today for its colonial
their unique style of architecture, with architecture and an eclectic cuisine that
upswept roofs imitating buffalo horns, draws on its multicultural influences.
is still seen across the state. After the fall of Melaka to the
Melaka, too, was founded by an exiled Portuguese, Johor became the most
Sumatran prince who introduced Islam to powerful state on the peninsula. Facing
the peninsula in the 15th century. The threats from the Minangkabau, Johor was
city’s strategic location on the busy trade forced to cede Singapore to Sir Stamford
routes between China and India made Raffles in 1819. Today, the hectic state
it phenomenally wealthy, as everything capital, Johor Bahru, is Malaysia’s second-
from tea, silks, and spices to gold, opium, largest city, but the islands of the Seribuat
and slaves was bought and sold here. Archipelago hold more appeal, offering
Such riches attracted the attention of the some of the very best diving and
Portuguese, who captured the city in 1511. snorkeling in the country.
Colorful trishaws decorated with flowers outside Christ Church, Melaka
Brightly painted verandas at Salang Bay on the idyllic island of Pulau Tioman
Exploring the Southern Peninsula

Bounded on the west by one of the world’s busiest shipping
lanes, the Strait of Malacca, on the east by the open South China
Sea, and on the south by the island city-state of Singapore, the
Southern Peninsula offers everything from bustling cities to
great tracts of jungle, lazy seaside resorts, and deserted islands.
The top draw is historic Melaka, home to some of Malaysia’s best
museums, most varied cuisine, and earliest European buildings.
The beautiful old palace, Istana Lama, in Sri Menanti is a prime
example of Minangkabau craftsmanship, while Seremban, the
capital of Negeri Sembilan, makes the ideal base Inside the royal throne room at
for exploring the state. Johor’s main Bentong Istana Lama, Sri Menanti
attractions are its beach resorts and the
beautiful islands of the Seribuat
Archipelago off the east coast.
Mancis Temerloh
Kuala Lumpur Paradong Simpang

Sights at a Glance Pertang
1 Seremban Kuala Ayer Hitam
Kelawang
2 Sri Menanti
Mantin
3 Kuala Pilah Pantai Bahau
4 Melaka pp128–33
SRI KUALA PILAH
5 Muar MENANTI
SEREMBAN
6 Kukup
7 Johor Bahru
NEGERI
Gemas Buloh
8 Desaru Beach Cuah SEMBILAN Kasap
9 Mersing
Port Dickson Pekan Jabi
Pengkalan Tampin
Islands Kempas Segamat
0 Seribuat Archipelago Tanjung Tuan Alor Gajah
q Pulau Tioman pp136–7
Masjid MELAKA Jasin
Tanah NORT Tangkak Lenga
H-SO
UTH
HIGH r
WAY ua
M
MELAKA
Pagoh
Pulau Besar Sungai
Rambai
St MUAR
ra Parit Jawa
it
of
M Semarah
al
ac
ca
Getting Around
A train line runs between Kuala Lumpur and
Johor Bahru, and then on to Singapore. Seremban
lies at the end of the KTM line from the capital.
However, the quickest and easiest way of getting
around the region is by car or bus and there are
regular services between all the main urban
centers. Smaller towns, such as Kukup, are best
reached by taxi while Pulau Tioman can be
reached by ferry from Mersing.
The bright façade of Christ Church, Melaka
SOUTHERN PENINSULA 125
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Peak
0 kilometers 40
0 miles 40
Swaying palms and pure white sand on Desaru Beach
Kuantan Tekek
Kuantan Juara
Padang Endau Pulau PULAU TIOMAN

Pianggu Seribuat
Pulau
SERIBUAT Pemangil
Endau
Kayu Papan ARCHIPELAGO

Gunung Tiong
a
3,327 ft Pulau
Se
Besar
a
MERSING in
Labis
Ch
Mersing
Seri Pantai h
JOHOR S out Pulau
ng
ro Jemaluang Tinggi
be
S em
Paloh Kahang Pulau
k
Sibu
i
Tanjung
Len
Leman
Gunung Belumut
Keluang 3,314 ft
Sedili Besar
Air Hitam
Renggan
Batu Pahat
Simpang Layang-Layang Mawai
Ranggarn Lombong Sedili Kecil
Senggarang NO Johor Laut

RT Kota Tinggi
H- Kelapa
SO
UT Sawit
H
Rengit Benut HIG Kulai
HW
AY Teluk
Senai Sengat
DESARU
Lintang BEACH
Pontian Kecil JOHOR
Gelang BAHRU Belungkor
Patah
Pengerang
Pekan Panerok
Pulau KUKUP
Kukup

The palace stands upon 99

pillars representing the royal
warriors, while the façade is
decorated with elegant
carvings of foliage and animals.
The royal bedchambers and
banquet hall can be viewed
inside, along with displays of
costumes and photographs.
Balconies on the upper floors
offer panoramic views over the
neat palace gardens.
E Istana Lama
Tel (06) 497-0242. Closed for
The peaceful Lake Gardens in Seremban renovation; due to reopen end 2016.
1 Seremban beaches can get crowded.

42 miles (67 km) S of Kuala Lumpur.
The water quality in the Strait of 3 Kuala Pilah
* 700,000. £ KTM Seremban. Malacca is not great, but there’s
25 miles (40 km) E of Seremban. *
@ from Kuala Lumpur and Melaka. always something going on.
154,000. @ (
_ Negeri Sembilan Cultural Carnival There is also an Army Museum,
(Jun). ∑ tourism.gov.my providing a change of pace In the heart of Minangkabau
from the beach. territory, Kuala Pilah is a small
The capital of Negeri Sembilan provincial center with little
state, Seremban is a busy and E State Museum to interest tourists, but it has
largely modern town that at Cultural Handicrafts Complex, an attractive collection of
first glance seems much like Jalan Sungei Ujong. Tel (06) 763- 1930s shophouses and a
any other provincial Malaysian 1149. Open 10am–6pm daily. handful of minor sights. Among
city. Although low on sights, Closed noon–2:45pm Fri. the most interesting is the
7 grounds only. - =
Seremban is a center for the Martin Lister Memorial Arch
unique Minangkabau culture. The located just behind the bus
most obvious expression of this station. This grandiose classical
is found in the local architecture, 2 Sri Menanti arch, topped with a Chinese
such as the State Secretariat 19 miles (30 km) E of Seremban.
roof, commemorates the state’s
Building with its striking, * 6,000. @ from Seremban. first British Resident, Martin
traditional pointed roof made _ Sultan’s Birthday Celebrations (Jul). Lister, and dates from 1897.
to resemble a pair of buffalo Nearby is the blue clapboard
horns. Some original, relocated The old royal capital of Negeri St. Joseph’s Catholic Church.
Minangkabau buildings are on Sembilan, Sri Menanti is today The center of town hosts
show at the State Museum. little more than a rustic village. a number of temples that
These include the Istana Ampang The Old Palace, or Istana include the multicolored Sri
Tinggi, with its beautiful carvings, Lama, was used as the royal Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple,
built for a sultan’s daughter in the residence until 1931 and is a filled with ornate statues of
1860s, and the less ornate Rumah fine example of Minangkabau various deities.
Negeri Sembilan. The State architecture. Now a museum,
Museum also hosts exhibitions of this magnificent wooden edi-  Sri Kanthaswamy
costumes, musical instruments, fice was completed in 1908 Hindu Temple
weaponry, and stamps. without the use of a single nail. Jln Melang. Open 6am–7pm daily. 7
East of the town center are
the attractively landscaped
Lake Gardens and the circular
State Mosque.
Environs
Port Dickson is a small port town
20 miles (32 km) southwest of
Seremban. It is the main base for
the 11-mile (18-km) beach strip
running south to Tanjung Tuan,
also known as Cape Rachado. As
the nearest beach resort to Kuala
Lumpur, it is hugely popular with
locals at weekends so the Detail of a frieze at the Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu Temple in Kuala Pilah
Minangkabau Architecture
Negeri Sembilan is a stronghold of the Minangkabau people who originally came from
the highlands of western Sumatra and settled here in the 15th century. Their name
comes from minang and kerbau, translating as victorious buffalo, and according to
legend derives from a war with the Javanese in which the final battle was decided by a
fight between two water buffalos. The Minangkabau won and adopted the buffalo horns
as their national symbol. These stylized horns are used in traditional female headwear
and, more notably, in their houses, which are supported on pillars and are always topped
with an elaborate roof with pointed, upswept gables reminiscent of a pair of horns. These
family homes are known as rumah gadang, or big house, and, as the Minangkabau are a
matrilineal society, belong to the women and are passed down the female line.
The central tower once held the royal Roof tiles are made from expensive,
records and functioned as a look-out post. and now scarce, ironwood specially
It is reached via steep wooden stairs. imported from Sarawak.
Istana Lama, Sri Menanti

The palace is supported on
The Old Palace is the most impressive example of 99 pillars, each hewn from a
Minangkabau architecture in Malaysia. Built between cengal tree trunk. Many are
1902 and 1908, it remained the royal residence until 1931 carved with elaborate designs.
and has been a museum since 1992.
The dramatic upswept gables of the State Museum in

Seremban, erected in 1984, are typical of Minangkabau
architecture. Older reconstructed houses can also be seen
within the grounds.
Istana Ampang Tinggi, with

its attap (thatched) roof, was The magnificent
built for a local 19th-century gateway straddling
princess. It originally stood the main road into Sri
near Sri Menanti but is now Menanti has dramatic
at Seremban’s State Museum. horn-shaped pillars.
4 Melaka tombstones, as well as the

empty tomb of St. Francis
With its colorful, cosmopolitan heritage, the town of Melaka Xavier, the co-founder of the
(also known as Malacca) is one of Malaysia’s biggest tourist Jesuit order in the 16th century.
draws. According to legend, it was founded by the Sumatran Outside the main entrance is
an abandoned 19th-century
Prince Parameswara in 1400 and named by him for the local lighthouse and a marble statue
melaka tree. The city grew quickly and by the 15th century it of St. Francis Xavier, erected in
was one of the richest trading empires in the East. In 1511, it 1952. From here, a path leads
fell to the Portuguese, who in turn gave way to the Dutch in down to the Dutch Cemetery at
1641 and the British in 1795. The influences of all the city’s the bottom of the hill. Only five
of the 38 tombs here belong to
rulers can still be seen in its historic core around St. Paul’s Hill.
17th-century Dutchmen; the
The city is known for its multicultural population, including rest are 19th-century British
Portuguese Eurasians and, most notably, the Baba-Nyonya residents. Most are in a bad state
who are descendants of early merchants from China who of disrepair but an information
intermarried with local Malay women. board at the entrance lists the
names of those who lie here.
P Porta de Santiago
Jalan Kota.
One of four main gateways into
the Portuguese A’Famosa fort-
ress, the Porta de Santiago is the
sole surviving remnant of those
once massive defenses. It was
built in 1512 by Alfonso de
Albuquerque, the Portuguese
viceroy, and the fortress was
reused and redeveloped by the
Dutch in the 17th century.
The squat stone archway, now
standing in isolation at the
Stadthuys, the former hub of Dutch colonial administration bottom of St. Paul’s Hill, bears
the coat of arms of the Dutch
E Stadthuys of post-independence Malaysia. East India Company on both
Town Square. Tel (06) 284-1934. Also included is the Seri Melaka, sides and there are several Dutch
Closed for renovation until end 2016; an impressive colonial mansion, cannons on display in front.
phone ahead for times. & 8 which was the official residence The fortress, with its 10-ft
This magnificent, sturdy old of Dutch and British colonial (3-m-) thick walls, was demol-
building looming over the town governors, and, until 1996, was ished by the British in 1807 in
square was built by the Dutch the home of local chief ministers. case the city fell into the hands
in the 1650s as the seat of of the French. It was only the
colonial administration. T St. Paul’s Hill intervention of Sir Stamford
The interior, which reopens at Occupying a commanding site Raffles (see p44), the founding
the end of 2016 after renovations, in the heart of town overlooking father of Singapore, that saved
houses the Museum of History the sea, St. Paul’s Hill was the this small section for posterity.
and Ethnography. Exhibits site of the now almost entirely
include Nyonya tableware, Ming vanished Portuguese A’Famosa
ceramics, Dutch furniture, pistols, fortress. Its last remnant, Porta
and swords, alongside dioramas de Santiago, stands sentinel at
illustrating wedding ceremonies the bottom of the mount.
of local ethnic groups and a full- At the summit of the hill is St.
size replica of a traditional Paul’s Church, originally erected
wooden Malay house. in 1521 and then known as
Behind the Stadthuys, and Nossa Senhora da Annunciada,
included in the same entry or Our Lady of the Annunciation.
ticket, are a number of small Under Dutch rule the church
museums including the Museum was renamed St. Paul’s, but was
of Literature, dedicated to abandoned after Christ Church
Malaysian writers and historical was built. Sadly, St. Paul’s Church
manuscripts, and the Democratic is now a ruin, but it still holds a
Government Museum, hosting fascinating collection of The ruins of Porta de Santiago, all that
displays on the political history elaborate 17th-century Dutch remains of A’Famosa fortress
MELAKA 129
SW Melaka. * 720,000.
n Jalan Kota, (06) 281-4803.
_ Dragon Boat Festival (Jul).
∑ tourism.gov.my
Transport
~ £ Tampin, 24 miles (38 km)
N. @ g Dumai, Sumatra.
5 Christ Church
Town Square. Tel (06) 284-8804.
@ 17. Open daily. 7 ^ 5 8:30am
English Eucharist. =
This striking, bright red church is
Plinth and gardens in front of the Istana Kesultanan Melaka, a replica Malay palace one of the iconic symbols of
Melaka. It was built by the Dutch
E Istana Kesultanan Melaka orchestra. Also on show are in 1753 to celebrate the cen-
Jalan Kota. Tel (06) 282-6526. scale models of other royal tenary of their rule over the city,
Open 9am–5:30pm daily. palaces from across Malaysia and consecrated for Anglican
& free admission to the garden. and displays of costumes and worship in 1838. Built of local
∑ perzim.gov.my weaponry, including the fear- red laterite stone, the building is
At the base of St. Paul’s Hill some tombak spears. now painted red and the color
is the Istana Kesultanan Melaka, Upstairs is the sultan’s scheme continues on the
an impressive re-creation of a bedchamber and another flight neighboring Stadthuys and
traditional Malay palace based of stairs leads to a small room Clock Tower. A three-arched
closely on descriptions of the housing a display of keris, or porch runs along the front of the
original 15th-century Melaka curved Malay daggers. church, while inside there are
Sultanate Palace that once In front of the palace is the numerous Dutch and British
stood in this area. It houses so-called Forbidden Garden, a tombstones. Look out too for the
the Muzium Di Melaka, which pleasant, formal space, laid out gigantic ceiling beams, each cut
displays life-sized dioramas with fountains and pools, and from a single tree trunk, the
of the sultan’s court in session shaded by bamboo, palm trees, hand-carved pews, and the frieze
and the nobat, or royal and magnolia trees. of the Last Supper over the altar.
Bus Station
U G IS
0.6 mile (1km)

JLN. KAMPUNG
Melaka
P0RT
1 Stadthuys
JL N .
JLN. TUK 2 St. Paul’s Hill

HULU
Hang Kasturi’s AN
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Mausoleum EM
JA AS JL 3 Porta de Santiago
LA N.
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Cheng Hoon 4 Istana Kesultanan
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BA
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JL
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JA
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I
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JL
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JA LO G St. Francis 7 Kampung Kling

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PARAME
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A RA

 Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar prayer hall, which is closed to

Moorthi Temple non-Muslims, is surrounded by
5–11 Jalan Tukang Emas. Ionic columns, ironwork, and
Tel (06) 288-3599. English ceramic tiles.
This unassuming structure is
the oldest surviving Hindu  Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
temple in Malaysia. It was built Jalan Tokong 25. Tel (06) 282-9343.
in 1781 on the site of the city’s Open 7am–7pm daily. 7
first Chitty, or Indian Peranakan, ∑ chenghoonteng.org.my
settlement. The temple is Also known as the temple of
dedicated to the deity the green clouds and Kuan Yin
Vinayagar, also known as Teng, this venerable building is
Ganesh, the elephant-headed the oldest Chinese temple in
god of wisdom. An image Malaysia. Founded in the
of Vinayagar stands on mid-17th century and Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi on Jalan
the main altar in the dedicated to Kuan Yin, Hang Jebat
back of the temple, the goddess of mercy,
and his younger it is a superb example P Jalan Hang Jebat
brother, Lord Murugan, of southern Chinese Tamil Methodist Church: 5 9:30am
appears at a side altar. architecture, and is Sun (English service). Jonker Walk
The temple is still a vital focus for Night Market: Open Fri–Sun evenings.
crowded during Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar the local Chinese Better known by its old name of
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb). Moorthi Temple community. Taoism, Jonkers Street, busy Jalan Hang
Confucianism, and Jebat is the main thoroughfare of
U Kampung Kling Mosque Chinese Buddhism are given Melaka’s Chinatown. It is famous
Jalan Tukang Emas. equal status within the temple. for its many antique and curio
Tel (06) 283-7416. 7 Restoration work on the main shops, bars, and restaurants,
Founded in 1748, this is one of complex led to the temple although prices here tend to be
the oldest mosques in the receiving a UNESCO award for higher than elsewhere. The street
country, although the present outstanding architectural is especially lively on weekend
buildings date largely from 1872 restoration. The main hall is evenings when the Jonker Walk
when the old wooden structure richly adorned with beautiful Night Market gets going. There
was replaced with brick in the paintings and symbolic are stalls selling Chinese food,
original design. carvings, with lions, golden clothes, and souvenirs, while
Like Melaka itself, the mosque phoenix, and other mythical Chinese opera takes place
draws influences from other creatures gracing the interior. on outdoor stages. Unfortu-
cultures and its unique There are also scenes from nately, rapid tourist-oriented
architectural features are based Chinese legend and literature development has forced many
on Sumatran, Chinese, Malay, including a prayer screen traditional businesses out and
and European styles. The depicting the life of the Buddha, historic buildings have been
unusual pyramidal roof with its and a watercolor of Lao Tzu, the demolished. There are still some
green tiling shows a strong Chinese philosopher and points of interest, including the
Hindu influence, while the founder of Taoism. Religious Mausoleum of Hang Kasturi,
striking pagoda-like minaret has ceremonies take place here dedicated to a local 15th-century
recognizably Chinese and every day, and visitors are hero, and the Tamil Methodist
Moorish origins. The main welcome to come in and watch. Church dating from 1908.
Detail from an intricately carved frieze at the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple
MELAKA 131
P Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock

8 Heeren Street: 8 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-1507. Open
11am–4pm Tue–Sat. 810:30am Tue
& Thu. ∑ badanwarisan.org.my
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery: 49 Jalan
Tun Tan Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-
2112. Open Tue–Sun. = 7
Malaqa House: 70 Jalan Tun Tan
Cheng Lock. Tel (06) 281-4770.
Open daily. = 7
Formerly known as Heeren Street,

and still referred to as such by
many locals, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng
Lock has retained much more of The decorated façade of a townhouse on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock
its original character than nearby
Jalan Hang Jebat. The long, and restoration processes, and E Maritime Museum
narrow street is now lined with document the traditional tech- Jalan Quayside. Tel (06) 283-0926.
shops, cafés, hotels, restaurants, niques and materials used by the Open 9am–5:30pm daily. &
and several art galleries. artisans who worked on the 7 modern building only. Melaka
The townhouses here date project. Local architects River Cruise: Quayside Heritage Center.
from the 18th century, and the sometimes give tours. Tel (06) 281-4322. Open 9am–
narrow façades are a result of Farther along Jalan Tun Tan 11:30pm daily. & 7
the tax on house widths that Cheng Lock is the Baba-Nyonya The Maritime Museum is
was imposed by the Dutch Heritage Museum (see pp132–3), Melaka’s most visually arresting
colonial authorities at that time. a preserved townhouse that museum, located on board an
To make up for this, they also provides a glimpse into a impressive, full-scale replica of
tend to have very deep interiors. wealthy Melakan home. One of the 16th-century Portuguese
The houses, with their colorful the street’s best art galleries is galleon Flora de la Mar, which
tiles, stucco work, and painted the Tham Siew Inn Artist sank in the Strait of Malacca
plaster, were once the homes of Gallery, which displays beauti- overburdened with looted
rich Baba-Nyonya families and ful watercolors by local artist treasure. Displays recount the
most are still in private hands. Tham Siew Inn. Another gallery city’s seafaring past from the
A few of the historic buildings worth visiting is Malaqa House, time of the 15th-century Melaka
along this road are in a very poor a grand Baba-Nyonya mansion Sultanate through the ensuing
state of repair. However, one of with large rooms filled with Portuguese, Dutch, and British
these townhouses, known as Oriental furniture, carvings, colonial periods. Exhibits
8 Heeren Street, has been paintings, and bric-a-brac. include dioramas depicting
restored and now functions as a bustling dock scenes, cases
resource center. In the few rooms E Baba-Nyonya Heritage containing scale-model ships
on show here, there are displays Museum and weapons, maps, and other
that explain the conservation See pp132–3. nautical artifacts.
Around a 5-minute walk from
the museum is the Quayside
Betel, “The Nut of Love” Heritage Centre; the jetty in front
Betel nuts, the dried seeds of the areca or Pinang palm tree, are prized of the building is the boarding
for their mildly narcotic and supposed aphrodisiac qualities. The ritual point for cruise boat tours of the
chewing of this nut was once Melaka River. Once the meeting
common across Malaysia but the point between East and West,
practice is now mainly confined the river was the main trade
to rural areas. The nut is prepared artery during the city’s heyday.
during courtship rituals by There are two cruise options
combining it with herbs, cloves, available – the first includes
tobacco, and ground lime, which an on-board tour guide, while
are then wrapped in betel leaves.
the other has a recorded
Chewing releases a sticky substance
said to freshen the breath, relax
commentary. Passengers are
the mind, and stimulate passion. also serenaded with traditional
In the past, brides would chew songs. Both tours leave every
betel nut to blacken their teeth, 30 minutes and last 45 minutes.
considered an attractive sign of The cruise takes in historic
status. Today, a betel-nut deco- Kampung buildings, beautiful
Betel nuts, thought to be an ration is still presented as a gift riverside gardens, and the Eye on
aphrodisiac, growing in the wild at weddings and festivals. Malaysia Ferris wheel. The tour is
particularly atmospheric at night.
132 M A LYA S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N
Melaka: Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum

This absorbing museum is dedicated to the unique
culture of Melaka’s Baba-Nyonya, also known as Straits
Chinese or Peranakan, community, who were born through
the intermarriage of Chinese traders and local Malay women.
The house dates from 1896 when three older houses were
combined to create a grand home for a wealthy Baba-Nyonya
family. Opulent decor with gold leaf, mother-of-pearl, and
exotic hardwoods is used throughout the house. The eclectic
design incorporates traditional Chinese wall-hangings
and woodcarvings alongside English tilework, heavy Dutch
furniture, Italian marble, and colorful Baba-Nyonya porcelain. Hand-painted lantern, a typical
decoration in Chinese homes
Bedroom Second floor

The four-poster bed in
the master bedroom is
decorated with elaborate
gilded carvings of foliage
and mythological scenes.
A hidden peephole
in the floor overlooks
the guest hall.
The atrium allows

natural light and cool
air into the house.
First floor
House no. 52
House no. 50
(entrance)
House no. 48
. Glass Partition
This screen allowed young unmarried
women, hiding in the Dark Chamber, to
peer through the etched panels at male
visitors in the Guest Hall without being
seen themselves.
. Wooden Staircase
This highly ornate wooden staircase,
constructed without the use of a
single nail, is decorated with
gilded carvings and is the only
one of its kind in Melaka.

MELAKA 133
Baba-Nyonya Shutters VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

These elegant louvered
shutters, made of overlapping Practical Information
movable wooden slats, draw on 50 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock.
European design and are a Tel (06) 283-1273. Open daily for
common feature of 19th-century guided tours only, 10am–1pm
Baba-Nyonya architecture. (last tour starts 11:45am) & 2–5pm
(last tour starts 4pm). 7 no lift to
first floor. ^ & under-5s free.
∑ babanyonyamuseum.com
Baba-Nyonya Porcelain
This distinctive pink and green porcelain,
decorated with floral motifs and Buddhist
symbols, was made to order in China
for wealthy Baba-Nyonya
customers.
Museum Guide
After walking through the impressive Guest Hall,
continue beyond the glass partition into the living
area. Take the stairs to the master bedroom and the
funerary room on the first floor. Descend at the rear
of the building to the kitchen area and return to the main
entrance passing the ancestral altar en route.
Key
Bedroom
Kitchen
Ancestor worship
Guest hall
Dark chamber
Funerary room
Bathroom
Exhibition space
Non-exhibition space
The kitchen is
perfectly preserved
and stocked with
traditional objects,
including a
noodle press.
. Ancestral Altar
A common feature of
Chinese homes, this
family altar has Ming Façade
dynasty-style carvings The façade is typical of the ornate and eclectic
of dragons and bats. styles favored by the 19th-century Baba-Nyonya.
The bronze cherub It incorporates Chinese style with elements of
lamps show a strong European design, such as stucco pilasters, Rococo
European influence. plasterwork, and louvered windows.
O Pulau Kukup
g from Kukup jetty. n Pulau Kukup
Johor National Park, 1319 Mukim
Air Masin, (07) 696-9355.
∑ johorparks.blogspot.hk
7 Johor Bahru
2 miles (3 km) N of Singapore;
124 miles (200 km) SE of Melaka.
* 1,065,000. k Senai. ~ £ @
g n 2 Jalan Air Molek, (07) 223-
4935. _ Johor Cultural Festival (Jul).
∑ johortourism.com
Boats moored at jetties in the old port town of Muar The capital city of Johor state,
commonly known as JB,
5 Muar Kukup is a traditional fishing sprawls across the southern
28 miles (45 km) SE of Melaka.
village, complete with old- tip of the peninsula facing
* 329,000. @ from Melaka and fashioned kampung-style Singapore over the narrow
Kuala Lumpur. g from Dumai, wooden houses on stilts. strait. The planned special
Sumatra. _ Water Sports The village is famous for its economic zone of Iskandar
Festival (Sep). seafood, with chili crabs being Malaysia encompasses JB,
the local specialty, and the and the government is
The bustling riverside town of many seafront restaurants do a investing a vast amount of
Muar, also known as Bandar roaring trade with weekend money into its creation.
Maharani or Empress Town, is visitors, many coming from Aside from the excitement
bypassed by most tourists, but Singapore. Offshore lies Pulau over the development of
its colorful history and elegant Kukup, one of the world’s the region, Johor Bahru has a
colonial architecture make it a largest uninhabited mangrove number of sights worth visiting.
pleasant stopover. islands. Once the haunt of The Royal Sultan Abu Bakar
The town was once a major pirates, it has been declared a Museum, housed in the
trading port, and its former status national park and wetland area sparkling white Victorian Istana
can be seen in the collection of of international importance. Besar, or Great Palace, west of
impressive colonial buildings A regular ferry service to the the city center. Built in 1866, it
standing close to the waterfront island allows visitors a glimpse is one of the oldest buildings
on Jalan Maharani, including of this fascinating protected in Johor Bahru and is set in
the grand Royal Customs and ecosystem. Its wildlife includes extensive landscaped grounds
Excise Building, dating from wild pigs, crabs, and numerous overlook ing the Strait of
1909. Also here is a row of species of birds. Singapore. The palace is
early 20th-century shophouses,
and nearby is the magnificent
Sultan Ibrahim Mosque, with
its soaring four-story minaret,
completed in 1930.
Muar is renowned as a center
of Malay culture. However,
it is best known for its food,
in particular the popular
mee bandung Muar, a tasty
concoction of noodles, eggs,
prawns, and chili in beef broth,
and ikan asam pedas, a sour
and spicy fish dish.
6 Kukup
25 miles (40 km) SW of Johor Bahru.
* 3,000. @ from Johor Bahru
to Pontian Kecil, then taxi.
n (07) 223-4935.
Sitting on the southwestern tip

of Johor close to the southern-
most point of continental Asia, Fountain in the Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque, Johor Bahru
now a museum devoted to the

royal family and is still used for
occasional official ceremonies.
Photographs, costumes,
weapons, and other royal
mementos are on show in the
lavishly furnished rooms, such
as the Hunting Room featuring
stuffed tigers, elephant-foot
umbrella stands, and suchlike.
LEGOLAND® Malaysia has
more than 40 rides, shows,
and attractions and is a popular
attraction. The centerpiece
is Miniland, where Asian land-
marks have been recreated
using more than 30 million
LEGO bricks.
Also of interest nearby is
the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque,
an Anglo-Malay edifice that
was erected in 1893 and can
hold up to 2,000 worshipers.
The Sultan Ibrahim Building
with its 210-ft (64-m-) high
Mughal-style tower dominates
the skyline. During World War
II, it was used by the Japanese
but today houses state Luxurious swimming pool at one of Desaru Beach’s hotel resorts
government offices.
9 Mersing Just a handful of the islands
E Royal Sultan Abu Bakar are big enough to support
124 miles (200 km) N of Johor Bahru.
Museum tiny villages and some
* 68,000. @ from Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Ibrahim. Tel (07) 223-0555. Open secluded beach resorts,
and Singapore. g to Pulau Tioman.
8am–5pm Sat–Thu. & 7 limited. which range from simple
n Jalan Abu Bakar, (07) 799-5212.
 LEGOLAND® Malaysia beach huts to smart hotels
7 Jalan Legoland, Iskandar Malaysia, This fishing town is the main with restaurants and
JB. @ from JB, Singapore. Tel (07) access point for Pulau Tioman swimming pools. The larger
597-8888. Open 10am–8pm daily. & (see pp136–7) and the islands and more developed islands
∑ legoland.com.my of the Seribuat Archipelago. are Pulau Besar, Sibu, and
Many people spend a night Tinggi, renowned for their
here en route but there is not a fine sandy beaches and
8 Desaru Beach great deal to do in this slow- excellent snorkeling and
55 miles (88 km) E of Johor Bahru.
paced town except to enjoy diving opportunities among
@ from Johor Bahru to Kota Tinggi, its unspoilt nature and watch the abundant coral reefs.
then taxi. g from Singapore to the boats set sail. Smaller islands provide a more
Tanjung Belungkor, then bus. sedate experience, such as
∑ desaru.com.my Pulau Rawa, which has two
0 Seribuat acccommodation options. The
The seaside resort of Desaru Archipelago remote islands, including Pulau
boasts over 15 miles (25 km) 59 miles (95 km) S of Kuantan. g
Pemanggil, Dayang, and Aur,
of fine, white sandy beaches from Mersing; each of the private have basic facilities, but are
fringed with casuarinas. It resorts runs a ferry service for guests. rich in marine life and popular
attracts more than one million with more intrepid divers.
visitors every year, and is part- Off the east coast of Johor lies Tour operators in Mersing
icularly popular with weekend the Seribuat Archipelago, run island-hopping trips
trippers from nearby Singapore. made up of 64 volcanic islands, stopping off at a few of the
The government has invested the largest being Pulau Tioman islands, but otherwise access
money into developing Desaru (see pp136–7). Most are tiny is restricted to guests at the
into a popular tourist and uninhabited and can only private resorts. Ferries to Pulau
destination, and the small hotels be reached by chartering Sibu depart from Tanjung
and quiet beaches have been a private boat, but they are Leman, 37 miles (60 km)
replaced with luxury resorts, among the most beautiful south of Mersing, and take about
golf courses, and theme parks. islands in Malaysia. an hour to reach the island.
q Pulau Tioman
The largest of Malaysia’s east coast islands, Tioman is famed
for its soft, sandy beaches, warm waters, and coral reef. Its
past is shrouded in myth – it is said that a dragon princess
stopped here to break a long journey. She loved it so much
that she stayed and her body was transformed into Pulau
Tioman. Most of the resorts are strung out on isolated bays
along the western coast. Diving and snorkeling opportunities
in the protected marine park are superb, but jungle hiking
and sunbathing are also popular activities. The island is a
. Snorkeling
haven for wildlife – more than 140 different bird species live Easy to arrange either alone or
here. Monitor lizards, snakes, monkeys, and porcupines thrive on organized trips, snorkeling is
in the jungle interior thanks to the absence of large predators, a captivating way to observe
coral life.
while the sea teems with countless varieties of tropical fish.
0 km 3
0 miles 3
Mersing
Coco
Melina
Genting Paya
Nipah Berjaya Tioman

Beach Resort
Ni
pa and Spa
h
Lalang
Twin Peaks Bagus
Gunung Kajang
The twin peaks of Bukit Nenek 3,994 ft
Semukut are often shrouded in mist. Minang Bukit Nenek
Semukut
Legend has it they are the horns of Butun 2,264 ft
the dragon princess.
Ra
Mukut ya
Keliling
Ali’s
g T ra
Falls
l
rai
a
Mentawak
Hi k–Ju
Bukit Seperok
kin
ke
3,133 ft
Te
Kampung Asah Juara
Lubok
Teja
. Asah Waterfall
A short walk from Kampung Asah
is this picturesque waterfall, which
was once used as a backdrop in
the 1958 film South Pacific.
Juara
Home to a large resort, secluded
Juara is located in a beautiful
curving bay on the east coast. It has
the finest white-sand beach on
Tioman but the sea can be rough.
19 miles (30 km) NE of Mersing.
n Mersing Tourist Information
Center, Jalan Abu Bakar, (07) 799-
5212. 0 - =
∑ pulautioman.com.my
Transport
g from Mersing. Note: water
taxis and round-island boat
trips are available.
. Tekek–Juara Hiking Trail
This sometimes challenging 5-mile (8-km) trail cuts
across the island through jungle that is full of wildlife,
streams, and waterfalls. It takes about three hours to
reach Juara from Tekek.
Pulau
Tulai
Panuba
Air Batang Salang
Tekek
Salang Beach
Tioman’s most northerly resort, Salang has a short,
sandy beach and shallow waters. There are plenty of
budget accommodations and seafront bars
providing low-key nightlife.
Key
Air Batang
Popularly known as ABC,
Minor road this lively resort is a favorite
Trail backpacker hangout,
although better beaches
Ferry route
can be found elsewhere.
Peak
KEY
Coral Reef
1 Monkey Beach is a secluded With more than
cove with deep, clear water – ideal 180 coral species,
for diving. Tioman’s waters
2 Pulau Tulai has reefs that are offer some of the
popular with snorkelers and divers. most rewarding
diving in Malaysia.
EASTERN AND CENTRAL

PENINSULA
T he Eastern and Central Peninsula is blessed with some of the most
beautiful natural features in Malaysia. Rising in the west are the lush
forested Titiwangsa mountains, to the east of which lie Kelantan,
Pahang, and Terengganu. Dominated by a vast rain forest and flanked by
an unbroken coastline with delightful beaches and islands, the region is
considered the heartland of Muslim Malay culture.
The three states of this region share a of the 19th century, which attracted Asian
similar early history, having been vassals of immigrants, they retained a rural and
Siam (now Thailand) and under the rule of predominantly Malay character. These
the Sultanate of Melaka in the 14th and states are still considered the conservative
15th centuries. Thereafter, Pahang was Malay Muslim heartland of the country.
ruled by the sultans of Johor until the The interior regions are inhabited by
British took control and made it one of Orang Asli and Orang Syam people.
the Federated Malay States. Terengganu The east coast possesses a rural
and Kelantan continued to be under tranquility and offers spectacular natural
Siamese rule through the 19th century. scenery. Pahang is home to Taman
In 1909, they became part of the Negara, the country’s premier national
Unfederated Malay States. In 1963, all park, as well as a host of offshore islands
three states were incorporated into the and some of Malaysia’s best beaches.
Federation of Malaysia. While the towns and villages of
Physically cut off from the west coast by Terengganu are centers for Malay handi-
the jungle interior, and free from British crafts, those of Kelantan are the best
control until the 19th century, the eastern places to see traditional activities, such as
and central states developed at a different fishing. Trips along the east coast may
pace, commercially and culturally. become difficult during the rainy season,
Separated from the tin and rubber boom between November and March.
The colorful fishing boats on Sabak Beach, Kelantan

An Orang Asli boy climbing a tree in Taman Negara
PANTAI
DASAR
SABAK
TUMPAT
Exploring the Eastern and
KOTA BHARU
Central Peninsula WAT MACHIMMARAM
This region offers spectacular natural beauty with the
WAT
magnificent Taman Negara and Endau-Rompin national PHOTHIVIHAN Ketareh
parks located in its forested interiors and an endless
coastline of white-sand beaches and stunning offshore
Macang
islands. Pulau Redang, Pulau Tenggol, and the Perhentian Jeli
Batu
Islands are home to a fascinating underwater world and Banding Melintang
offer some of Malaysia’s top diving and snorkeling. While
Kuala
Kuantan, the capital of Pahang, is a transport hub for Kerai
the region and used mostly as a transit point, especially Jerimbong
for nearby beaches and the picturesque Tasik Chini, the
two other state capitals, Kuala Terengganu and Kota Kemubu
Bharu, are rich in Malay culture. Gunung Camah
7,099 ft
Bertam
K E L A N TA N
ins
Sights at a Glance THE JUNGLE RAILWAY
nta
Towns and Cities Islands and Beaches Sungai
Kemudu
1 Kuantan 8 Pulau Tenggol
Mou
4 Pekan 9 Pulau Kapas Gua Musang

5 Cherating w Pulau Redang
angsa
q Kuala Terengganu e Perhentian Islands Merapoh

r Kota Bharu pp152–3 y Pantai Dasar Sabak Gunung Tahan
7,085 ft
t Tumpat
tiw
Tour
Parks and Preserves o The Jungle Railway p155
Ti
Cegar Perah
6 Endau-Rompin National Park
7 Taman Negara pp144–5 Je
la
i
Places of Worship
u Wat Phothivihan Kuala Lipis
i Wat Machimmaram Beluan
Areas of Natural Beauty Sega Kuala

0 km 25 Tembeling
2 Gua Charas
0 miles 25
3 Tasik Chini Jerantut
0 Tasik Kenyir
Raub
Bentong
Karak
Kuala
Lumpur
Bahau
Fishermen and women drying their catch by the sea in Kuantan

EASTERN AND CENTRAL PENINSULA 141
Getting Around
Kuantan, Kuala Terengganu, and Kota Bharu are
served by domestic airports. Route 3, a major
Jelawat PERHENTIAN national road, runs the length of the three states,
ISLANDS and a good bus network serves the region.
Pasir While the condition of the major roads is good and
Puteh Kuala Besut traffic is safe, the quality of the minor roads that
PULAU branch off to the interior tends to deteriorate,
Raja
Jerteh REDANG necessitating 4WD vehicles. It is easiest to visit the
Pulau Bidung
Laut national parks with a tour group. The railroad is a
Pasir Akar Penarek South pleasant travel option. Regular ferries connect the
China mainland with the offshore islands.
Keruak Merang
Sea
Gunung Lawit
Timur
4,967 ft Seberang Takir

Pulau Duyung Key
KUALA
TERENGGANU PULAU Highway
Marang KAPAS
Mou
Major road
Berang Minor road

nta
TASIK KENYIR Railroad

ins
Rantau Abang
State border
TERENGGANU Jerangau
Peak
Dungun
PULAU
ARA Bukit Besi
NEG TENGGOL
N Paka
MA
TA
Kerteh
ing
b el
m
Te
Air Jernih Kijal

P A H A N G
Tek
ai Air Putih
Cukai
Ceneh
CHERATING
GUA CHARAS
Sungai Lembing Beserah
KUANTAN
Kuala Kerau
an
Paya Bungur t Te luk

an Ch e mpe da k
Ku
Maran Kuala
Paha Lepar Temai
ng Lubuk PEKAN
Paku Hilir
Temerloh
TASIK CHINI
Kerayong
Triang
Tanjung Batu
Muadzam
Tasik Bera Shah
Aur
Kajang Shaded jetty providing a mooring for the small craft
Gemas Kota Bahagia that ply the Perhentian Islands
Petoh
Ro Kuala Rompin
m
pin
Segamat Tanjung Gemok
ENDAU-ROMPIN
NATIONAL PARK
Mersing

dedicated to Kuan Yin, the

Chinese goddess of mercy, and
to several bodhisattvas.
3 Tasik Chini
85 miles (138 km) SW of Kuantan on
Federal Hwy 82. @ to Felda Chini –
3.1 miles (5 km) S of Tasik Chini, then
taxi; to Maran, then taxi to Kampung
Belimbing, then boat. ®
Nestled in the hills, deep in

Ferries docked in Kuantan, capital of Pahang Malaysia’s forested interior, Tasik
Chini is a collection of beautiful
1 Kuantan zoo safari, and a man-made lakes connected by waterways
160 miles (259 km) E of Kuala Lumpur.
lake, making it popular with teeming with fish and birds and
* 315,000. ~ @ g n Jalan families. There are several framed by giant trees. The best
Makhota, (09) 517-7111. hotels on-site. time to visit is between June
∑ pahangtourism.com.my and September when the lakes
 Bukit Gambang Resort City are covered with red and white
The capital of Pahang, Kuantan is Jalan Bukit Gambang Utama. lotus blooms. Around the
a commercial town and a major Tel (09) 548-8000. & ® shores live the indigenous
transport hub, located at the Water park: Open 10:30am–6:30pm Jakun people, belonging to the
mouth of Sungai Kuantan. The Mon, Wed & Thu; 9:30am–6:30pm Orang Asli community. Sadly,
town has a few sites of interest Fri–Sun. ∑ bgrc.com.my these people are struggling to
and is visited mostly by travelers protect their traditional way of
en route to the attractive beaches life and fight pollution of this
and riverside villages nearby. 2 Gua Charas lovely environment by the
Overlooking the padang at mining and logging industries.
15 miles (25 km) NW of Kuantan.
the heart of town is the stun- @ from Kuantan.
Kampung Gumum is a small
ning Moorish-style Masjid Orang Asli settlement at the
Negeri, or state mosque. It is Near the small settlement of northern end of the lakes,
crowned with a blue and white Panching, Gua Charas is a where friendly locals show
dome and is surrounded by four series of deep caves set visitors around their homes and
Ottoman-style minarets. It also dramatically in a massive display their traditional handi-
features stained-glass windows, limestone karst outcrop. In crafts. At the village, accom-
a rare feature in Malaysian 1954, the Sultan of Pahang modation is also available.
Islamic architecture. The mosque granted permission to a Thai Although public transport to
is illuminated every night. The Buddhist monk to convert the the lakes is not conveniently
redeveloped riverfront of main cave into a Buddhist accessible, once there, the entire
Kuantan offers pleasant views shrine. A steep ascent up 200 lake system can be explored by
and has shops that sell excellent steps leads to this enormous boat, organized by the resort
local handicrafts. From the jetty, cave, which contains several and the village. Several trails of
boat trips take visitors to the religious images carved out of varying lengths weave through
nearby fishing village of stone. Dominating the cave is the area. Day tours to Tasik Chini
Tanjung Lumpur as well as to a a 30-ft- (9-m-) long Sleeping can be arranged from Kuantan
mangrove forest reserve. Buddha. Next to it are shrines and Cherating.
Environs
Just 3 miles (5 km) east of the
capital, Teluk Chempedak, or
jackfruit bay, is Kuantan’s main
attraction. It marks the
beginning of the splendid
beaches on the east coast and
is famous locally for its sands
and waves. Besides an array of
watersports, there are several
walking trails. Located 20 miles
(35 km) southeast of Kuantan is
Bukit Gambang Resort City.
The resort has many attractions
including a vast water park, a The enormous Sleeping Buddha enshrined at Gua Charas
6 Endau-Rompin
National Park
35 miles (57 km) S of Kuantan. @ to
Kahang, then 4WD for Peta; or to
Bekok, then 4WD for Selai. n (07)
223-7471. Closed during monsoon
season (Nov–Mar). & 8 guides
mandatory. 0 ® 
∑ johorparks.blogspot.hk
Named for the two rivers that

bound it, the 336-sq-mile (870-
sq-km) Endau-Rompin National
Park is among the last remaining
stretches of lowland forest in
Malaysia. It nurtures a splendid
The impressive Buaya Sangkut cascades at Endau-Rompin National Park variety of flora and fauna and is
one of the few habitats of the
4 Pekan 5 Cherating Sumatran rhinoceros. The park’s
varied landscape allows for a
27 miles (44 km) S of Kuantan on 29 miles (47 km) N of Kuantan on
Federal Hwy 3. * 30,000. @ from Federal Hwy 3. * 2,000. @ from variety of activities, such as
Kuantan. ∑ pekan.my Kuantan, Kota Bharu, Kuala trekking, rafting, climbing, and
Terengganu. 0 abseiling. There are entrances at
Located on the south bank Peta, near Mersing, and, less
of Sungai Pahang, the longest Occupying a windswept bay accessibly, at Selai.
river in Malaysia, is the town facing the South China Sea, At the confluence of Sungai
of Pekan, the former royal the palm-fringed fishing village Endau and Sungai Jasir is the
capital of Pahang. of Cherating is one of the best base camp, Kuala Jasin, 9 miles
Scattered along the busy beaches on Malaysia’s lovely (15 km) from the park head-
riverfront street at the town’s east coast. Well provided with quarters. From here, a 4-hour trail
northern edge are many of its accommodation of all types, leads to Janing Barat Plateau
attractions, including a row of from budget guesthouses to while two other routes trace the
beautiful Chinese shophouses high-end resorts, Cherating is a Sungai Jasin leading to the park’s
with jack roofs, many of which very popular destination. The most spectacular waterfall,
are antiques shops, and the waters here are ideal for surfing, Buaya Sangkut. Visitors are also
Sultan Abu Bakar Museum. especially during November welcome at the Orang Asli
Housed in a Victorian palace, and December. Another area of villages that dot the area.
once the residence of the Johor interest, around 6 miles (10 km) All visitors must carry entry
royal family, this interactive from Cherating, is Chendor permits, which can be obtained
museum exhibits a collection of Beach. Visitors come here for for free from Kuala Rompin or
royal regalia, weapons, and sightings of green turtles and, the park headquarters, or for a
Chinese porcelain, some of occasionally, giant leatherbacks, fee from Johor Bahru. An
which were salvaged from a which come ashore to lay their organized tour is the best way
wrecked junk (Asian shipping eggs between April and to explore the park, either
vessel). Visitors can stroll around September, the nesting period. through the Johor Parks
the attractive gardens for free. There are also some secluded Corporation or a travel agency;
Nearby are two white marble bathing spots. The Chendor accommodations are limited,
mosques, the blue-domed Turtle Sanctuary is worth a and ideally three days are
Masjid Abdullah, which dates visit, especially at nesting time. needed to cover the park.
back to the 1920s, and the
newer Masjid Abu Bakar, with
its more conventional golden
domes. Farther away from the
river is the royal quarter, with its
lavish Istana Abu Bakar, or royal
palace, overlooking a polo
ground. The Kedah Royal
Mausoleum, dating back to
1778, is also nearby.
E Sultan Abu Bakar Museum

Jalan Sultan Ahmad. Tel (09) 422-1371.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (9am–
noon, 2:40–5pm Fri). & The sky-blue-domed Masjid Abdullah at the former royal capital of Pekan
7 Taman Negara KELANTAN TERENGGANU
Established in 1938, Taman Negara is Malaysia’s oldest and

largest national park. Extending across 1,660 sq miles
(4,300 sq km) of pristine rain forest, the park encompasses Area of map
Illustrated
parts of three states: Pahang, Kelantan, and Terengganu. • PAHANG
Kuala
A profusion of birdlife can be spotted here, along with rare Tahan
animals such as the Indochinese tiger, Sumatran rhinoceros,
Malayan gaur, and Asian elephant. Access to the park is
spectacular, involving a 37-mile (60-km) boat journey
along the lovely Sungai Tembeling, passing Orang Asli
villages en route. Be aware, however, that during the rainy Fo ur S t ep s
season the park may be inaccessible. W a t erf a ll
Gunung Tahan
7,152 ft
Padang
Gunung Gedong
6,752 ft
G
Kuala
un
Teku
un
gT
aha
n
Tr
. Gunung Tahan ail
The 7,175-ft- (2,187-m-) high Gunung Tahan is the highest peak in
Peninsular Malaysia. The long trek to the summit is very demanding
with the route passing rivers and undulating ridges before finally
reaching the peak. Kuala Puteh
Boat Trips
At the Mutiara
Taman Negara
Resort park
headquarters, boats Te
n
can be hired for
or
trips to the Lata

Berkoh rapids, as
Rent
well as for fishing

trips to the Tahan
is Te
and Kenyam rivers.

nor
Tra
il
Bukit Guling
Gendang
1,864 ft
KEY
1 Bukit Guling Gendang, at a

height of 1,864 ft (568 m), offers Hornbills Ato
k
panoramic views across virgin rain For many the main
forest from its summit. attraction of Taman
Negara is its abundant
2 Gua Telinga, a limestone cave, birdlife. The park is home
is one of the most easily accessible to rare hornbills, including
in the park. Guided by a rope, the wreathed hornbill,
visitors can follow a stream great hornbill, Indian pied
through the cavern. hornbill, and the
rhinoceros hornbill.
Asian Elephants
Taman Negara is a haven
for endangered species
such as the Asian elephant.
106 miles (170 km) W of Kuantan.
Wild elephants are often
n Kuala Tahan, (09) 266-1122.
relocated here from the
Permits: available at Department
surrounding region.
of Wildlife and National Parks.
∑ taman-negara.com
Transport
@ to Kuala Tembeling, then boat
to Kuala Tahan.
0 km 5
0 miles 5
. Bukit Teresek
The climb up to the
summit of Bukit
Teresek along a
Ke
ny muddy track takes
over an hour but is
am
well worth the effort

for the great views
across the valley to
Perkai Gunung Tahan and
Lodge Gunung Perlis.
Kuala
Te
Keniam
ren
Key
gga
n
Trail
Me
Park boundary
lan
tai
Exploring the Park

Ta All trails start from or near park headquarters and have
Lata
ha
been marked or signposted. The two main trails in the

n
Berkoh Kenyam
park are the 9-day, 34-mile (55-km) trek to Gunung
Kuala Tahan and the 4-day, 10-mile (16-km) Rentis Tenor loop
Kuala
Melantai
Terenggan trail. However, the most heavily used trail in the park is
Bukit Teresek the short 1.6-mile (2-km) route to Bukit Teresek, which
1,122 ft also leads on to Bukit Indah. Guides are compulsory for
the longer, more strenuous treks.
Mutiara Taman
Negara Resort
Kuala
Tahan
Yo
ng
Sungei Tiang
Airstrip
Tem
beling
Kuala Kuala . Canopy Walkway

Atok Tembeling A 1,673-ft (510-m) walkway, one of the world’s longest, runs through the canopy at
Kuala Tahan. Suspended 147 ft (45 m) above the ground, it enables visitors to
explore the rain forest from a novel perspective.

marine life. A ban on fishing, programs. The island is an

spear-fishing, and any other excellent place for swimming,
form of marine life harvesting windsurfing, and sea kayaking
ensures a rewarding under- or just relaxing under the palm
water diving experience. trees. A walking track that cuts
There are at least ten dive across the island to its isolated
sites in this group of islands, eastern shore offers panoramic
but most of them are deep- views.
water and suitable only for
divers with prior experience. 0 Tasik Kenyir
34 miles (55 km) SW of Kuala
Terengganu. @ from Kuala Lumpur.
9 Pulau Kapas  from Kuala Terengganu. 8 boat
4 miles (6 km) E of Marang. 4 from tours. ® ∑ kenyirlake.com
Marang. 0 - = ®
Extending over 100 sq miles
A small, beautiful island with (260 sq km) and containing
Clear blue waters lapping the pristine shore white-sand beaches and daz- around 350 small islands, Tasik
of Pulau Tenggol zling waters, Pulau Kapas, or Kenyir is the largest man-made
cotton island, is a designated lake in Southeast Asia. It was
8 Pulau Tenggol marine park and promoted as a created by the construction of
diving and snorkeling paradise. a dam on the Sungai Kenyir in
8 miles (13 km) E of Kuala Dungun.
4 from Kuala Dungun. ®
Located to the north is the 1985. Surrounded by lush
much smaller islet of Pulau tropical jungle, which is home
Part of a group of 12 small and Gemia, which can only be to a number of wildlife species,
remote islands, Pulau Tenggol is visited by guests of its resort. including thousands of
a renowned diving destination The best sites for snorkeling hornbills, Tasik Kenyir has been
on the east coast of Malaysia. on Pulau Kapas are found developed as an ecotourism
Uninhabited until the 1970s, the around its northern shore as destination, and is also a duty-
island was developed into a dive well as around Pulau Gemia. free zone. Today, there are some
site (see p314) and is now part of North of Gemia, a sunken World 15 resorts around the lake.
the Terengganu Marine Park. War II shipwreck is one of the Among the highlights of the
The blue waters around most popular sites. All the lake are 14 picturesque
the densely forested islands resorts on Kapas can arrange waterfalls, which cascade into
harbor spectacular under water diving trips. There is also a natural pools. These can be
cliffs, boulders, and coral reefs professional scuba-diving reached by boat from the
that shelter a variety of colorful center that offers training lake’s main jetty. Boat trips can
also be taken to the limestone
Bewah Caves at the southern
end of the lake. There is an
elephant sanctuary and a
canopy walk along the water’s
edge. The best time to visit is
between February and June
when the water level is high
due to the monsoon season.
A trained monkey selecting a ripe coconut
Coconut-Collecting Monkeys
It is common practice in Peninsular Malaysia to train monkeys to
shin up palm trees, twist off the coconuts, and throw them to the
ground where they are gathered up by the tree’s owner. It has
been estimated that after about three months’ training, monkeys
can harvest at least five times as many coconuts per day than a
human collector, chiefly due to their speed, agility, and ease with
heights. Kampung Jenang, near Marang in Terengganu, has
made a thriving business out of this technique. A monkey-training
school established by Muda Mamat, a local villager, now even
tutors monkeys belonging to coconut plantation owners from
neighboring states for a steep fee. One of the 14 beautiful waterfalls at
Tasik Kenyir
Exquisite traditional Malay houses in the grounds of Terengganu State Museum Complex
q Kuala Terengganu Zainal Abidin, with golden traditional Malay stilt house,
138 miles (220 km) N of Kuantan. *
domes and a single, towering contains displays of textiles,
275,000. ~ @ 4 n Plaza Padang minaret. A number of fascinating handicrafts, Islamic artifacts, and
Negara, (09) 623-1553. ∑ tourism. sights are within easy reach of a gallery dedicated to the state’s
terengganu.gov.my the capital, including the petroleum industry. Within the
Terengganu State Museum grounds are several traditional
The state capital and the seat Complex, the Masjid Tengku Malay boats and houses as well
of the sultans of Terengganu, Tengah Zaharah, and the island as a maritime museum. The
Kuala Terengganu is a former of Pulau Duyung (see p149), highlight of the complex,
fishing village that was trans- which is host to the prestigious however, is the Istana Tengku
formed into an affluent city Monsoon Cup yachting race. Long, a wooden palace that
from the revenue of its South dates back to 1880, with
China Sea oilfields. E Terengganu State exhibits of royal artifacts.
The city remains a stronghold Museum Complex
of Malay culture, with colorful Losong, 2 miles (3 km) SW of Kuala U Masjid Tengku Tengah
markets and vibrant traditional Terengganu. Tel (09) 622-1444. Zaharah
handicraft workshops where Open 9am–5pm daily. 3 miles (5 km) SE of Kuala Terengganu.
visitors can buy batik, brocade, Closed noon–3pm Fri. & Owing to its location by the
songket, brassware, and One of the largest museums in water, Masjid Tengku Tengah
basketware. The busiest spot in Southeast Asia, Muzium Negeri Zaharah is also referred to as
town is the Pasar Payang, or Terengganu, or Terengganu the Floating Mosque. This
central market. All kinds of State Museum Complex, sparkling white mosque is
foods including fresh fish, fruit, consists of several buildings set in a park and combines
and vegetables are available sprawled across landscaped modern and traditional Moorish
here. The nearby Waterfront gardens. The main building, architecture. The mosque is
Heritage Bazaar is another good which is a reproduction of a closed to non-Muslims.
place to browse. South of the
market is the compact
Chinatown. Its crescent-shaped
street is lined with restored
shophouses and restaurants, as
well as a Buddhist temple.
Just a short walk away from
the market, in the opposite
direction, is the colonial-style,
apricot-colored Istana Maziah,
which is the sultan’s palace. It is
closed to the public except for
some ceremonial occasions.
Nearby is the beautiful Masjid Fresh vegetables at the Pasar Payang in Kuala Terengganu
Holidaymakers relaxing on one of the quiet, beautiful beaches of Pulau Perhentian Besar
w Pulau Redang e Perhentian hawksbill turtles lay their

38 miles (62 km) N of Kuala Islands eggs between May and
Terengganu. g from Merang and September, when the bay is
12 miles (20 km) NW of Kuala closed to visitors.
Kuala Terengganu. 0 - ® Terengganu. g from Kuala Besut.
∑ redang.org Pulau Perhentian Kecil is
0-®
smaller than Pulau Perhentian
One of the largest and most Located off the Terengganu Besar, but is otherwise an exact
beautiful of the east coast islands, coast, Pulau Perhentian Besar replica of it, with beautiful
Pulau Redang is also the most and Pulau Perhentian Kecil beaches, coconut palms, and
developed. It is set at the center together comprise the azure waters. A small village
of the Redang Archipelago, Perhentian Islands, which means on its southeastern coast is
a group of nine islands that stopping-place islands. Breath- inhabited by people originally
together constitute a protected takingly beautiful, the islands from Sulawesi in Indonesia. The
marine park. With crystal-clear have inevitably attracted a great island’s main attraction is the
waters and a wealth of marine deal of development but still east-facing Pasir Panjang, or
life sustained by some of retain their appeal. Both islands Long Beach.
Malaysia’s best coral reefs, the feature white-sand beaches and Of the two islands, the more
island offers excellent diving and an aquamarine sea that is home expensive accommodations,
snorkeling opportunities. Sadly, to spectacular coral reefs with quieter ambience, are
silt and building waste have teeming with an astounding available in Perhentian Besar.
damaged the coral, but active variety of marine life. Besides Dozens of resorts and
efforts are being made to diving and snorkeling, other guesthouses are clustered
prevent further damage and activities available on the islands around the southwestern shore.
even snorkeling has been include sailing, windsurfing, With the vast abundance of
restricted to certain parts of and jungle walks. cheaper hotels and restaurants,
the reef. The permitted areas Among the beaches on Pulau Perhentian Kecil is attractive
do, however, offer superb Perhentian Besar is the exquisite to backpackers.
opportunities for underwater Three Coves Bay, a group of The islands are usually
exploration. The waters also three beaches separated by packed during the peak
contain the historic wrecks of rocky outcrops. This sheltered season between late May and
two British warships, HMS Repulse spot is where green and September, and finding accom-
and HMS Prince of Wales, which modation is difficult. It is worth
were sunk off Pulau Redang by exploring options on both
the Japanese during World War II. islands since the narrow strait
The island’s beaches are set separating them is easily
against a backdrop of verdant crossed by boat. Getting around
jungle-clad hills. Pasir Panjang the islands is simple. There
and Teluk Dalam Kecil, two of are some good walking trails
the best beaches, occupy the but the best way to hop
eastern coast and have most of between beaches is by boat,
the resorts. Kampung Air, Pulau which can be arranged by most
Redang’s main village, sits at the resort and chalet owners.
center of the island. Northwest of these islands lie
Most travelers visit the island the smaller, uninhabited Pulau
on a package tour but dive trips Susu group covered in virgin
can also be arranged from the Snorkeling in the crystal-clear waters off forests. They provide one of the
Perhentian Islands. the east coast islands best diving sites in the region.
Boatbuilders of Pulau Duyung

Just off the western waterfront of Kuala Terengganu lies Pulau Duyung where
an ancient tradition of boatbuilding still thrives. Decorated vessels, called bangau,
were once made all along the east coast, from Kota Bharu to Kuantan and beyond.
Primarily used as fishing boats, these wooden craft are constructed by master
boatbuilders using techniques passed down through many generations and it is
believed that they are built entirely from memory. Each boat is painted in bright
colors and painstakingly decorated with individual designs, making them unique.
The island is accessible via a causeway from Kuala Terengganu and by ferry from a
jetty near the Seri Malaysia Hotel.
Local shipyards and

workshops are scattered
throughout the island
and visitors are usually
welcome to see the
boatbuilders at work.
Most of the boats are
used by local fishermen,
but their exquisite
craftsmanship has won
them international acclaim.
Boat Design
Most boat designs feature representational characters,
often derived from Hindu mythology. However, these
are becoming rarer as boat designers are increasingly
turning to non-representational Islamic art such as
the elaborate geometric arabesque pattern.
Stylized prows are carved and painted

to represent shadow puppets, birds, and
Garuda, a bird from Hindu mythology.
Rows of vibrant fishing boats line the beaches of Pulau

Duyung. Originally propelled by oars or sails, many of the Mythical creatures, such as dragons
boats today are fitted with removable motor engines, both and demons, appear to be derived from
for convenience as well as modernity. Hindu epics such as the Ramayana.
The boats need to be

brought ashore every
day, far away from
treacherous waves and
close to the tree line.
Therefore, they are
created with an expert
blend of functionality
and aesthetics: sturdy in
order to withstand the
strongest of storms, yet
light enough to be easily
pulled out of the water.
The Pasar Besar or central market at Kota Bharu, which is run mostly by women
r Kota Bharu exhibits is the singakerti, an

impressive royal carriage shaped
Situated in the northeast corner of the peninsula, near the in the form of a mythical beast.
mouth of Sungai Kelantan, Kota Bharu, or new fort in Malay, is
the state capital of Kelantan, and perhaps the most traditional
Malay and predominantly Muslim city in the country. A
modern city on the surface, Kota Bharu is a repository of
culture, crafts, and religion. It is rich in palaces, museums, and
mosques, and offers a fine regional cuisine. Traditional skills
and customs such as kite-flying, silver-working, and weaving
thrive here. Prayer times are rigorously observed, when all
activity comes to a standstill, especially on Fridays, the Muslim
holy day. Most of the city’s attractions lie in its northeast
section, at the heart of which is the Pasar Besar, one of the
most vibrant markets in the country. Kota Bharu is also a
good base to explore the surrounding region.
The towering Muhammadi Mosque,
northwest of the city center
many years. This unique Malay
palace has Thai architectural U Muhammadi Mosque
influences in its design. The Jalan Sultanah Zainab.
throne room and the audience Near the palaces, which are
hall are used on important royal clustered near Padang Merdeka,
occasions and official state the imposing Muhammadi
functions. The palace is closed Mosque was built in 1926
to the public but visitors can during the reign of Sultan Ismail
view the beautiful façade. IV. Known locally as the Brick
Mosque, it serves as the center
E Istana Jahar for Muslim dawah, or missionary
Jalan Sultan. Tel (09) 744-4666. activity in Kelantan. Visitors
Open 8:30am–5:45pm Sat–Thu. & should dress conservatively,
Built by Sultan Ahmad in 1887 ensuring that their arms and
for his son Long Kundur, Istana legs are covered. Non-Muslims
Elegantly furnished dining room at Istana Jahar remains an outstanding are not allowed to enter during
Batu, now the Royal Museum example of traditional Kelantan prayer times.
wooden architecture, with
E Istana Batu delicately carved beams, panels, E Islamic Museum
Jalan Istana. Tel (09) 748-2266. and iron grilles. It is now the Jalan Sultan. Tel (09) 744-0102.
Open 8:30am–4:45pm Sat–Thu. & Museum of Royal Traditions Open 10:30am–5:45pm Sat–Thu. &
The sky-blue Istana Batu, or stone and Custom. Its collections Close to the Muhammadi
palace, completed in 1939 by include textiles, brass and Mosque is the beautiful old
Sultan Ismail, was given by him silverware, and artifacts related wooden building of the Islamic
as a wedding gift to his nephew to various royal rituals and Museum, decorated with fine
Sultan Yahya. Once used as a ceremonies, such as weddings carvings. Formerly known as the
guesthouse for visiting royalty and births. The Weapons Gallery Serambi Makkah, or veranda
and a wedding venue for the displays spears, old keris, and to Mecca, it functioned as a
sultan’s family, it has been made other weapons. Perhaps the religious college, the first of
into the Royal Museum. Rooms most impressive among all the its kind in Kelantan. It also
preserved in their original state
display royal artifacts such as old
family pictures and glassware.
P Istana Balai Besar

Jalan Tengku Seri Akar.
Closed to public.
Standing at the very center of
town, surrounded by a wooden
fort, Istana Balai Besar is a
traditional Kelantan palace. Built
in 1844 by Sultan Muhammad II,
it served as the official residence
of the royal family of Kelantan for The green and white façade of the Islamic Museum
and evenings Mar–Oct, except during

symbolized the prominence of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
the Ramadan period.
Islam in the state. The museum
now houses a display of photo- The city’s premier cultural Practical Information
graphs and artifacts that give an center, Gelanggang Seni NE Kelantan. * 1,310,000.
account of the history of Islam organizes cultural shows n Jalan Sultan Ibrahim,
in the state. and exhibitions to showcase (09) 748-5534. _ Kite Festival
a wide variety of traditional (May/Jun), Drum Festival (Jul),
E World War II Memorial Kelantan arts and sports, Sultan’s Birthday (Jul).
Museum many of which are in danger Transport
Jalan Sultan. Open 8:30am–4:45pm of dying out. There are free ~£@
Sat–Thu. & performances of silat, a Malay
Located in the old Bank Kerapu, martial art form, and mak yong
the World War II Memorial and manohra, traditional kite-flying using huge Kelantan
Museum contains more than dance-dramas accompanied moon kites called wau bulan.
1,000 exhibits, pictures, and by gamelan music. Drummers There are also performances
guns that document the perform on huge rebana, drums of spellbinding shadow-
Japanese occupation of made out of hollowed logs, and puppet plays called wayang
Kelantan during the Second kertok, smaller coconut drums. kulit, using characters and
World War. Kota Bharu was the The center presents displays of stories from the fascinating
landing point for the Japanese gasing, the traditional game of Hindu epics of the Ramayana
forces in Malaysia, on December wooden top-spinning, and and the Mahabharata.
8, 1941. During the invasion the
bank also functioned as the
headquarters of the Japanese
secret police, or kempetai.
Another display of photographs
and arms dates from the years
of the Emergency, when British
and Malay troops fought a long-
running struggle against the
Chinese Communist Party of
Malaya between 1948 and 1960.
An upstairs gallery describes the
history of prewar Kelantan.
E Gelanggang Seni
Jalan Mahmood. Tel (09) 744-3124.
Open timings vary, call to confirm;
free shows Mon, Wed, Fri afternoons A traditional kite-maker surrounded by colorful kites in Kota Bharu
Kota Bharu City Center JALAN WA K A F M E

B AN GG OL
K ZAINAB
1 Istana Batu JALAN

MERBA
U
2 Istana Balai Besar
JLN . ATAS
Istana Batu
U LT A
3 Istana Jahar
UN S
Islamic Muhammadi
4 Muhammadi Mosque Museum Mosque Airport
EB
5 Islamic Museum World War II Istana Jahar 3 miles (5 km)

N K
Memorial PAD AN G J L N . P INTU PONG JLN. SRI CEMERLANG

N AN
6 World War II Memorial Museum ME RDE KA Central LA AL
JALA
J A G K PA
OFFI CE LAM A
JALA N POS T
Istana Balai Market

Museum N E
Besar PE CH
GA RON G
J A LAN PA DO NG
7 Gelanggang Seni
JLN. DAT O PAT
JLN . T. P.
JLN. DOK TO
SEM ER AK General
JLN. MA
Hospital
JLN . CHE SU
L
J A L A N H O S P I TA
R
I
HMO
JALA N SULTAN
ZAIN AB
OD
JA
JL N .
LA
B AYA
M
JALAN
JALAN DUSUN MUDA

N
Gelanggang
SU
Istana Seni AM Y
0 meters 500 JLN. BA
LT
Kota
S U LT A N A H
Lama
N
0 yards 500
IB
RA
Pacific KB Mall
H
IM
ZA
Hamzah JLN.
PA S I R
JLN. KUALA KERAI
Bus Station
IN
PUTI
AB
LAN HAM Z A H H
JA
Langgar KUALA LUMPUR
Bus Station
Sultan Yahya Petra Bridge

buildings and grounds are large

and imposing. The main
attraction here is a 131-ft- (40-m-)
long phra non, or Reclining
Buddha that was built in 1975.
Wat Phothivihan is a social,
cultural, and spiritual center for
Thai, Chinese, and Indian
worshipers. Its monks are
always eager to show vistors
around. The temples and
groves also elicit the secular
interest of Muslims who view it
as a tourist attraction.
The elaborate temple roof of Wat Phothivihan

iWat
Machimmaram
t Tumpat cooking on the spot. Visitors Kampung Jubakar, near Tumpat.
9 miles (15 km) NW of Kota Bharu. should bear in mind that the @ from Kota Bharu or Tumpat.
£ @ from Kota Bharu. east coast of Kelantan is pre- # 7am–5pm daily. _ Vesak Day
dominantly Malay Muslim, and (Apr/May).
Located in a predominantly dressing modestly is advisable.
agricultural region, the little One of the many Buddhist
town of Tumpat in Kelantan is a temples in the Thai villages of
center of the Orang Syam u Wat Kelantan, Wat Machimmaram is
people. It is also an important Phothivihan located in the village of
transport hub for southbound Kampung Jubakar on the main
travelers on the Jungle Railway 2 miles (3 km) S of Chabang Empat, road between Kota Bharu and
track or northbound travelers to near Tumpat. @ from Kota Bharu or the Thai border. As in
nearby Thailand. Tumpat. # 7am–5pm daily. neighboring Thailand, the ketek,
_ Vesak Day (Apr/May).
Tumpat is a good place to or temple, has familiar lotus-
start exploring the region’s shaped corner stones, gilded
numerous Thai Buddhist tem- Within Kelantan, the lives of Thai spires of venerable chedi, or
ples, always a surprising and Buddhists are organized around stupas, lacquered doors, and
colorful sight in the otherwise 20 or so monasteries. One of the shuttered windows. Its most
strictly Islamic Kelantan. most interesting of these, Wat outstanding feature is a statue
Phothivihan is worth visiting for of the Seated Buddha, con-
its elaborate temple roof and structed by local Thai Buddhists
y Pantai Dasar saffron-clad monks, both of and said to be the largest in
Sabak which form a marked contrast to Southeast Asia. At about 105 ft
the surrounding Muslim villages. (32 m), the statue towers
8 miles (13 km) NE of Kota Bharu.
@ from Kota Bharu.
Built in 1973 by chief abbot over the surrounding Kelantan
Phra Krurasapia Chakorn, the plains, making a definite
To the north and east of Kota monastery attracts thousands statement about the presence of
Bharu are several attractive of Thai pilgrims every year. As Theravada Buddhism in this
beaches overlooking the South with most Thai temples, the predominantly Islamic state.
China Sea. One of the most
easily accessible is Pantai Dasar
Sabak. Situated near the Malay
fishing village of Sering, it is a
dazzling stretch of palm-lined
beach and has a significant
history. On December 8, 1941,
the Imperial Japanese Navy
troops landed here in one of
Japan’s first acts of aggression
during World War II.
It is possible to combine
an excursion to the beach with
an opportunity to watch the
return of the local fishing fleet in
the afternoon, and perhaps to
buy some fresh seafood for A golden seated Buddha and ornate pillars at Wat Machimmaram
o The Jungle Railway Tips for Travelers

One of the most delightful ways of exploring the wild Starting point: Tumpat, 9 miles
interior of Peninsular Malaysia is by the Jungle Railway, (15 km) from Kota Bharu.
Getting there: by taxi, or by bus
officially called the East Coast Line. Considered an engin-
no. 27, 27A, and 43 from Central
eering marvel when it was completed in 1931, it created Bus Station, Kota Bharu.
links between the east coast state of Kelantan with the west Duration: 15 hours by daytime
coast states of Kedah, Perak, and Penang. This line winds its slow train from Tumpat to
Gemas; 10 hours by overnight
way south from Kelantan through the spectacular jungle
express train.
gorges of Kuala Lipis to join the main line from Singapore to
Kuala Lumpur at Gemas.
THAILAND 1 Tumpat
Kota Bharu
Wakaf Bharu •
• The line starts at Tumpat
Pasir Mas in the north, a small
•
agricultural town in rural
Kelantan that is chiefly noted
Tanah Pasir Putih
Merah •
for the several Thai temples in
•
•
•
Raja
its vicinity.
K e l a nt a n
Jeli Machang
•
Dabong
•
•
Tembeling
2 Kuala Krai
The Railway passes by the K E L A N TA N
iri
Nengg
banks of the Sungai

Leb
Kelantan near the

ir
settlement of Kuala Krai,

which is surrounded by 3 Gua Musang
rubber plantations and An isolated town, Gua Masang
dense rain forest. Merapoh is known for its caves and
•
trekking opportunities, but is
Gunung Tahan
4 Kuala Lipis 7,175 ft dependent on timber for its
Ta
economic survival.
ha
Located at the
n
confluence of Jelai and Kenong Rimba

State Park Kuala Tahan •
Lipis rivers, this former
gold-mining town is Jelai 5 Jerantut
known for its tranquility Batu A popular gateway
and lovely colonial • Sembilan to Taman Negara (see
architecture. Benta • • pp144–5), this small town has
•
Kerambit Kuala Tembeling
several restaurants and
accommodation options.
P a hang
•
Raub
PAHANG
Maran •
0 km 50 KUANTAN
•
0 miles 50 Mentakab •
Temerloh
KUALA
LUMPUR Kerayong
Triang •
•
6 Gemas
The Jungle Railway
Key Ayer •
Pos ends at Gemas, a busy
Hitam Iskandar
Minor road • junction town with
•
Bahau excellent road and rail
Railroad
links to Kuala Lumpur
International border and Johor Bahru.
N E G E RI
State border S E MBI L AN
Peak Segamat
•
•
JOHOR
Tampin BAHRU
SARAWAK
Teeming with natural wonders, including precipitous
mountains, lush rain forests, abundant wildlife, and some of
the world’s largest caves, Sarawak is nicknamed the Land of
the Hornbill. This diversity of flora and fauna, along with
Sarawak’s swashbuckling history and the cultural heritage of its
indigenous people, attracts increasing numbers of visitors to the state.
Sarawak’s first inhabitants were cave- The state is blessed with an abundance
dwelling hunter-gatherers who lived of natural resources, and petroleum
here about 40,000 years ago. Evidence and forestry became the mainstay
of the existence of early settlements of Sarawak’s economy in the 20th
was discovered in 1958 at Niah Caves in century. Sarawak’s population of
the northeast of the state, testifying 2.4 million largely comprises the
to Sarawak’s long, although largely indigenous people known collectively
unwritten, history of human habitation. as Dayaks, while the remaining minority
Until the mid-19th century, the region are the Orang Ulu.
was governed by the Sultan of Brunei Most people live in the southwest of
whose imposition of heavy taxes led to the province, in and around the historic
frequent rebellions by local indigenous capital of Kuching. The city is an excellent
groups. During one such outbreak in base for visiting the traditional Dayak
1839, the English adventurer James longhouses, wildlife reserves, and
Brooke entered the service of the Sultan national parks scattered throughout the
and subdued the rebels. For this, he province. The breathtaking ancient
was rewarded with the title of Rajah, limestone pinnacles at Mulu National
becoming the first of the White Rajahs Park are excellent for trekking and rock
(see p163) who ruled an area the size of climbing. These, together with Niah
Britain as their private kingdom for over a Caves and Bako National Park – one of
century. Sarawak joined the Federation of Sarawak’s oldest national parks – are the
Malaysia in 1963. highlights of a visit to the state.
Mother and baby orangutan moving through the trees at Semenggoh Nature Reserve
Trekking to the giant caves of Mulu National Park
Exploring Sarawak
Located in northwest Borneo, Sarawak is the largest
state in Malaysia and is famous for its diversity of
flora and fauna. Within easy reach of its capital,
Kuching, are beautiful national parks and scenic
beaches. Flanked by longhouse settlements of the
Dayaks, the Batang Rajang meanders through
the heart of the state as the main channel of
communication with the towns of Sibu, Kapit, and
Belaga. In the northeast of the state, the Niah Caves
are a site of archaeological significance, while the
limestone outcrops at Mulu National Park are a
climber’s dream. Brunei, one of the world’s smallest The opulent façade of Masjid Jamek, or
countries, is situated on the northern coast. Friday Mosque, Brunei
Sights at a Glance
Towns, Cities, and Regions 9 Gunung Gading Themed Attractions
1 Kuching pp160–63 National Park 5 Sarawak Cultural Village
3 Santubong q Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
7 Sematan w Bako National Park pp168–9
Islands and Beaches
r Sibu o Similajau National Park 4 Damai Beach
t Kapit a Niah Caves National Park
y Belaga s Lambir Hills National Park South
u Mukah d Loagan Bunut National Park China
i Bintulu g Mulu National Park pp176–7
p Miri
Sea
Rivers Balingian
h Brunei pp178–9 MUKAH
2 Sungai Santubong
Parks and Preserves Sirik
e Batang Rajang Kut
Matu
6 Kubah National Park and Narub Rumah
Areas of Natural Beauty Changgan
Iga
Matang Wildlife Center Daro

n
0 Wind Cave and Fairy Cave Nanga

8 Tanjung Datu Tamin Mambong
National Park f Kelabit Highlands
Sekuau Muk
SIBU ah
Belawai BATANG
Binatang Rajan
Sarikei g RAJANG
TANJUNG DATU
NATIONAL PARK Grigat Kanowit
DAMAI Julau Song
Roban Pakan
SEMATAN BEACH Uka
SARAWAK BAKO NATIONAL
Rumah Besi
CULTURAL PARK Kabong
VILLAGE Saratok Rumah Rumah
GUNUNG SANTUBONG Penom Layang Tungku
Beladin Pusa
GADING NP SUNGAI SANTUBONG
r
KUBAH
ya
Debak
KUCHING
La
NP Lupar
Bau Simunjan
Betong
WIND CAVE Siburan
ng
Batang Ai
SEMENGGOH Bandar
Sado
AND FAIRY CAVE Reservoir

WILDLIFE Gedong Sri Aman
Engkilili
CENTRE
Ensabang Lubok Antu
0 kilometers 50
0 miles 50

SARAWAK 159
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Bandar Seri
State border Begawan Sundar
Lawas
Tutong
Peak Limbang
Trusan
Kuala Belait
Seria Long
I Tengoa
NE
Nanga
Labi U Medamit
MIRI R Long
Long
LAMBIR HILLS B Merarap Semado
NATIONAL PARK
Bekenu MULU NATIONAL Gunung Mulu Gunung Murud
7,799 ft
Beluru PARK Long
7,999 ft
NIAH CAVES Seridan S
ND
NATIONAL PARK Gunung Batu Iran
Long Banio
LA
Laogan 6,703 ft Bario
Suai
H
Bunut
Tut
KE L A B I T H I G
LOAGAN BUNUT oh Long
NATIONAL PARK Aar
SIMILAJAU Long Luyang
NATIONAL PARK Ti
n Long
ja r
Lellang
Long San
a
en
Labang Long Sobin Bukit Kalulong

Long Banga
em
K 4,003 ft
Lio Matoh
BINTULU Long Nibong
Tubau
Long m
Sebauh Bukit Punum Palai Bara
4,154 ft
a
Be lag Long Tikan
Rumah Melap B e l ep a h
Sangan Long Murum
Rumah Rumah Kesing BELAGA Long Tingen
China
An
Long Geng Danum

ap
ja ng
i
lu
Ra
Ba
S A R A W A K
Merit
Bukit Batu Ma
6,601 ft
lara
Bukit Kerangan ng
Nyabong Rumah Kulit
2,490 ft
KAPIT B
al eh
Rumah Nanga Gaat
Jugat
Gaat Rumah Aryl Bukit Kumbong
Rumah 4,587 ft
Mau ong
ngi
Ban Ka Me
pua
sH Bukit Melatai
ulu
5,098 ft
Getting Around
Domestic flights connect most towns in Sarawak and
are ideal for visitors with limited time. For those with a
more leisurely schedule, boat rides are an exciting way
of getting to the remote villages and national parks
and are the most common mode of local transport.
There are speedy passenger ekspres boats as well as
longboats for long- and short-haul journeys. Because
of the rugged terrain, the road network in Sarawak is
limited to a highway between Kuching and the Brunei
border, plus a few short routes from Kuching to places Aerial view of mangrove forests surrounding
such as Bako and Semantan. Sungai Sarawak
1 Kuching with a different theme, contain

displays on traditional Islamic
The capital of Sarawak, Kuching is one of Malaysia’s most design, architecture, costumes,
attractive cities with historic buildings juxtaposed against coins, jewelry, decorative arts,
modern high-rises and restaurants. It became the capital of weapons, ceramics, domestic
utensils, and weights and
Rajah James Brooke’s empire in the mid-19th century and was measures. The diverse artifacts
known as Sarawak until 1872 when its name was officially have been very well preserved
changed to Kuching. Long a confluence of Malay, Chinese, and the displays here are
Indian, and indigenous people, such as the Iban and Bidayuh, some of the best of any
Kuching reflects its varied cultural influences. Although the museum in Malaysia.
city sprawls both to the north and south of Sungai Sarawak,
E Textile Museum
the main sights of interest, such as the waterfront, colonial Jalan Tun Haji Openg.
buildings, and ethnic souvenir shops, are all concentrated Open 9am–4:30pm daily. ^
around the south bank of the Kuching waterfront. ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my
Located in the heart of the city,
it is hard to miss the Pavilion, a
building decorated with ornate
ironwork. Built in 1907 as a
hospital, it was used as a
propaganda center by the
invading Japanese army during
World War II. Today, the Pavilion
is home to the Textile Museum.
Its two floors contain exhibits of
everyday clothes worn by the
various indigenous groups of
Sarawak, as well as costumes
worn for weddings and other
Sungai Sarawak meandering through the city of Kuching ceremonies. There are also
models of women engaged in
E Sarawak Museum dress, ceremonial artifacts, cloth spinning, weaving, and
Jalan Tun Haji Openg. Tel (082) 244- musical instruments, and various dyeing. Traditional songket and
232. Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Fri, tools such as the three-pronged ikat are also on display.
10am–4pm Sat, Sun & public hols. ^ pricker that is used by the Iban
= ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my to create tattoos. Among the P Tun Jugah Gallery
Perhaps one of Malaysia’s highlights on display are a replica Level 4, Tun Jugah, 18 Jalan Tunku
finest museums, the Sarawak of an Iban longhouse, Iban war Abdul Rahman. Tel (082) 239-672.
Museum provides an overview totems, and early 20th-century ∑ tunjugahfoundation.org.my
of the province’s history and Chinese glazed jars. Rotating Vivid and fascinating textiles can
ethnography. The artifacts of art exhibitions are held in the also be seen at the Tun Jugah
the museum are housed in two Tun Abdul Razak Hall, which Gallery. Here, local people are
buildings. The Ethnology is accessible by a footbridge. reviving the art of making Iban
Museum is set in a colonial There is also an aquarium. cloths, which use especially
mansion opened in 1891 at the intricate weaving patterns, and
suggestion of naturalist Alfred E Islamic Heritage Museum are growing the traditional
Wallace who discovered many Jalan P. Ramlee. Tel (082) 244-232. plants used to dye them.
of Sarawak’s endemic species Open 9am–4:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–
of flora and fauna. The natural 4pm Sat, Sun & public hols. ^ P Round Tower
science section, on the first floor, ∑ museum.sarawak.gov.my Jalan Tun Haji Openg. Tel (082) 245-
has stuffed specimens Housed in a restored 652. Open 8:30am–12:30pm & 2–5pm
of many of Sarawak’s colonial building that Mon–Fri; 8:30am–noon Sat & Sun.
best-known species, was constructed in 1930 Built in the 1880s, the Round
such as rhinoceros and once functioned as Tower was originally intended
hornbills, hawksbill a school to train Malay to be a fort, as a defence against
turtles, and proboscis teachers, the Islamic the arrival of pirates, but
monkeys. On the upper Heritage Museum functioned instead as a
floor is an introduction presents the history dispensary in its early days. It
to the traditional of Islam and its spread now houses the Sarawak Crafts
lifestyles of Sarawak’s in Sarawak as well as Council, which has showrooms
main indigenous the rest of the Malay- that feature some of the
groups, with displays of Detail of a burial pole Indonesian archipelago. province’s finest handicrafts,
handicrafts, traditional at Sarawak Museum Its seven galleries, each with regular demonstrations.
KUCHING 161
SW Sarawak. * 500,000.
n Courthouse Complex, (082)
423-600; National Parks and
Wildlife Booking Desk, (082) 248-
088. ∑ sarawaktourism.com
Transport
k@
roofs that are supported by

Romanesque and regal columns.
Colonial buildings with ironwood roofs in the Courthouse Complex It was built in 1871 as the seat of
Sarawak’s government, which
P Jalan India wooden mosque, it quickly remained its function until 1973.
Near the waterfront. Masjid Bandaraya: became one of the city’s most The state’s law courts continue to
Open 9am–3pm Sat–Thu. Closed Fri. distinctive landmarks. Non- operate from here, and the main
On the western edge of the city Muslims, dressed appropriately, court chamber, with walls and
center, near the main produce are allowed to enter except at ceiling covered with murals
market on Jalan Gambier, the prayer times. The mosque has depicting rural life in Sarawak, is
pedestrianized Jalan India is now been superseded in size by worth visiting. The Clock Tower
one of Kuching’s most popular the State Mosque across the at the front of the complex was
shopping streets. Most of the river at Petrajaya, which can added in 1883 and the granite
shops are fronted by colonial- accommodate 14,000 worshipers. Charles Brooke Memorial in
style arches and sell textiles, 1925. At the four corners of the
shoes, brassware, souvenirs and P Courthouse Complex memorial are stone figures
household goods. Dominating Junction of Main Bazaar and Jalan Tun representing the principal ethnic
the western end of the street is Haji Openg. Closed Mon. groups of Sarawak – the Dayaks,
the large and impressive Masjid A splendid example of Kuching’s Malays, Chinese, and Orang Ulu.
Bandaraya, or City Mosque, colonial heritage, the Court- The complex houses a café and
topped with gilded cupolas. house Complex is a cluster of the Sarawak Tourism Board’s
Built in 1968 to replace an old buildings covered with ironwood Visitor Information Center.
Kuching City Center

0 meters 250
1 Sarawak Museum 8 Square Tower
2 Islamic Heritage 9 Kuching Waterfront 0 yards 250
Museum 0 Tua Pek Kong

3 Textile Museum q Fort Margherita
4 Tun Jugah Gallery
Cat Museum Astana
5 Round Tower 2.5 miles (4 km) 350 yards (300 m)
6 Jalan India S
a
7 Courthouse r
a KAMPUNG
Complex Fresh Market Square w
Tower Fort GERSIK
J A L A N G AMB I E R
Margherita KAMPUNG
a
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BOYAN
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JLN
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Merdeka Bishop’s
EN
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LEB
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AN
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JALAN
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JALA
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Heritage
A
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Museum Museum JALA

Gardens Reservoir
UA
Airport Bus Station Park

N
9 miles (15 km) 5 miles (8 km)

overview of the evolution of the

Chinese community in Sarawak
through photographs, artifacts,
documents such as maps of
early trade routes, and
information about their
traditional trading activities.
 Tua Pek Kong

Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman.
_ Chinese New Year (Feb).
Located opposite the Chinese
History Museum and over-
looking the river, Tua Pek Kong
is the oldest Taoist temple in
Kuching, dating back to 1876.
The historic Square Tower, a reminder of the Brooke era It is thought that the current
structure was preceded by a
P Square Tower and has rapidly grown into one Chinese temple that existed
Main Bazaar. Tel (082) 426-093. of the city’s most popular spots here in the late 18th century.
Open 10am–4pm daily. for jogging, dining, strolling, and Vibrantly colored and intricately
In 1879, the Square Tower was enjoying a spectacular sunset decorated, the temple is
built by Rajah Charles Brooke over the river. Sampan (boat) dedicated to Tua Pek Kong, the
just north of the Courthouse to rides are available to cross the patron saint of merchants, and
replace a wooden fort that had river or for longer cruises. is always very busy. It is built on
been burnt down by Chinese Set back a little from the a site carefully chosen for its
gold miners during a rebellion waterfront, the Main Bazaar is geomancy, according to
in 1857. However, the tower the city’s oldest street and is Chinese tradition. The Wang
was never again needed as a packed with shops. Two of the Kang festival to commemorate
defensive structure and over most significant buildings on the dead is also held here.
the years it was put to other this street, both carefully
uses, including a brief role as a restored, are the Sarawak T Fort Margherita
prison and later even as a Steamship Building and North bank of Sungai Sarawak.
ballroom. The tower is one of Chinese History Museum. g from the jetty near the Square
the few buildings that remain The former, built in 1930, is Tower. Closed to the public.
from the Brooke era. now home to the Kuching Close to the Astana, along the
Waterfront Bazaar, which has riverbank to the east, is Fort
P Kuching Waterfront several souvenir and handi- Margherita, with crenellated,
Between Square Tower and Hilton crafts stalls. The museum was whitewashed walls and large
Hotel. - ( stalls in the evening. built by Rajah Charles Brooke in cannons. This structure, built in
Sarawak Steamship Building: 1911 and once functioned as 1879 by Rajah Charles Brooke
Main Bazaar. Open daily. the Chinese Chamber of and named for his wife, was the
Chinese History Museum: Main Commerce. Today, however, second fort to be built on the
Bazaar. Tel (082) 231-520. the museum provides an site. The first, built by his uncle,
Open 9am–6pm Sat–Thu.
A stroll along the Kuching
waterfront is one of the high-
lights of a visit to the city. In the
mid-1990s, several dilapidated
warehouses along the
waterfront were demolished
and an extensive renovation
project transformed this stretch
into a lovely riverside
promenade. Landscaped
gardens, sculptures, cafés, food
stalls, and benches now
embellish this strip. Several
plaques along the path mark
historical spots. It also offers
spectacular views of the Astana
and Fort Margherita on the
north bank of Sungai Sarawak, An early morning view of the Kuching waterfront
KUCHING 163
James Brooke, was

burnt to the ground
by rebel Chinese
gold miners in 1857.
Commanding a
sweeping view of
Sungai Sarawak, Fort
Margherita was built
to protect Kuching
against attack from
pirates and other
enemies approaching
the town by the river
route. However, it never
fulfilled its intended The stately Astana on the north bank of Sungai Sarawak
purpose as Kuching did
not come under attack until Unfortunately, the fort has been the palace consists of three
World War II when the Japanese very poorly maintained and is elegant bungalows with wooden
took control of the entire city. closed to the public. shingle roofs. Charles Brooke is
said to have grown betel nut on
P Astana the palace grounds so that he
North bank of Sungai Sarawak. g could offer it to visiting Dayak
from the jetty near the Square Tower. chiefs. The Astana still functions
On the river’s north bank lies as the official residence of the
Kuching’s most important governor of Sarawak, and is not
historical building, the impres- open to the public.
sive Astana. The name is a local
version of the Malay word istana, P Cat Statues
meaning palace. The Astana was Kuching means cat in Malay and
built in 1870 by Rajah Charles although the origin of the city’s
Brooke as a gift to his bride, name is uncertain, there are
Margaret. She later reminisced several statues of cats in the
about her time here in her 1913 town, giving it a unique identity.
memoir, My Life in Sarawak. They are all on the south bank of
Set among manicured lawns Sungai Sarawak, and include a
An imposing watch tower at Fort and offering a lovely view of the small statue on the waterfront
Margherita in Kuching Courthouse on the south bank, just east of the Chinese History
Museum, a larger one opposite
the Hilton Kuching on Jalan
The White Rajahs Tun Abdul Rahman, and a third
at the base of a pillar farther east
In 1839, British explorer James
Brooke found Sarawak in the grip along Jalan Pandungan. The
of a rebellion by the local Dayaks biggest statue, the 5-ft- (1.5-m-)
against the rule of the Sultan of tall Great Cat of Kuching, is at
Brunei. After his success in quelling the junction of Jalan Padungan
the uprising, he was granted the and Jalan Central.
title of Rajah of Sarawak in 1841,
establishing an empire that was to E Cat Museum
last for over a century. At the time North of Kuching City Hall.
of James Brooke’s death in 1868, his Tel (082) 446-688. @ Petra Jaya bus
territory only covered what is now the 2C or 2D. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
southwest corner of Sarawak – the area Closed Mon & public hols. & RM3 for
around Kuching. It was his successor and use of camera, RM5 for use of video.
nephew, Charles Brooke, who was Sir James Brooke Located in the new town of
responsible for expanding Sarawak to the Petra Jaya, on the north bank of
current size, and also for commissioning
the river, the rather kitsch Cat
most of the town’s colonial buildings. A stickler for detail, he
Museum claims to be one of the
made frequent unannounced inspections of his officers, and any
slack conduct was severely punished. Upon his death in 1917, few such museums in the world
Charles was succeeded by his son, Charles Vyner Brooke, and for dedicated exclusively to cats. It
a while Sarawak was run as a personal fiefdom. This ended with covers everything to do with
the Japanese invasion in 1941. After World War II, Vyner Brooke cats, and the exhibits include
ceded the territory to Britain, and in 1963 it became part of the cat-related art, stamps, photo-
Federation of Malaysia. graphs, music, movies, and even
Garfield comic strips.
2 Sungai
Santubong
@ tour bus to Santubong jetty.
g tour boats between 4 and 5pm.
8 from Kuching.
After meandering through the

plains around Kuching, Sungai
Santubong flows through
Sarawak into the South China
Sea. During the dry season,
between March and October,
groups of the rare Irrawaddy
dolphin are sometimes seen Lagoon-style pool at the Holiday Inn Resort at Damai Beach
feeding and playing around the
mouth of the river. These small, 3 Santubong reclining human figure is still
snub-nosed dolphins are often well defined, but many other
difficult to spot as they do not * 800. @ Petra Jaya bus 2B.
carvings have eroded.
leap out of the water like their
seafaring cousins. Nevertheless, This fishing village sits near
the experience of watching Sungai Santubong in the 4 Damai Beach
these unusual creatures is a shadow of the 2,657-ft (810-m)
major draw on the popular Gunung Santubong. During the @ Petra Jaya bus 2B. 0 ® 
boat trips. Tang and Sung dynasties, which
Some cruises continue down lasted from the 9th century to On the west coast of the
the adjoining Sungai Salak to the 13th century, Santubong Santubong Peninsula, Damai
Kuching Wetlands National was an important trading is one of Sarawak’s prettiest
Park. Covering a vast expanse of center. Today, it is merely a small beaches. Only a short journey
saline mangrove swamps and village but it is worth visiting for from Kuching, and featuring
patches of scrubland, the the colorful wooden houses some beautifully designed
wetlands also include a network built on stilts and fishing boats resorts, the beach is a popular
of small water channels and on the beach, which are very tourist destination and can get
tidal creeks. The swamps are photogenic. The morning is the quite crowded on weekends.
inhabited by a variety of wildlife, liveliest time in Santubong There is a wide selection of
including crocodiles, proboscis when the fishermen sell their watersports on offer, including
monkeys, lorises, and color ful daily catch at the quay. The sailing, snorkeling, and wind-
birds. In the evenings, large cafés nearby are well known surfing, as well as other
groups of fireflies illuminate the for their excellent seafood. activities such as mountain
riverside trees. River cruises are From the main road into biking and golf. Cafés and
the only way to explore the Santubong is a small, easy-to- restaurants here have gained
wetlands, and a number of tour miss turning which leads to a reputation for their superb
operators in Kuching offer trips. Sungai Jaong, one of the most fresh seafood dishes.
important archaeological sites Picturesque trails around
O Kuching Wetlands National in Sarawak. Among its artifacts Gunung Santubong begin here
Park are ancient Buddhist and Hindu and trekking is a popular
9 miles (15 km) N of Kuching. rock carvings, thought to be activity for visitors to Damai
g&8 about 1,000 years old. A Beach. The Santubong Jungle
Trek, with blue trail markers, is
an easy, circular 1-mile (1.6-km)
walk that starts at the Damai
Beach Resort. A more
challenging route that also
begins here is the Gunung
Santubong Summit Trek,
winding up to the top. The
trail, with red markers, takes 5
to 7 hours to complete. It also
requires a good level of fitness,
sturdy hiking shoes, and
plenty of drinking water. The
resorts at Damai can arrange
Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong for guides.
SARAWAK 165
5 Sarawak Cultural Rainforest World Music Festival

Village In August each year, Sarawak Cultural Village hosts this festival, which
21 miles (35 km) N of Kuching. Tel celebrates music from around the world. This 3-day event, which has
(082) 846-411. @ tour bus and Petra been held every year since 1998, previously featured musicians from as
Jaya bus 2B, 15. Open 9am– 5:15pm far away as Mali, Mongolia, and Madagascar. The festival now also
daily; cultural shows at 11:30am and provides a rare opportunity to hear
4pm daily. & 0 = _ Harvest indigenous musicians from various
Festival (May), Rainforest World Music regions of Malaysia. Seminars and
Festival (Jul). ∑ scv.com.my workshops are held during the day,
spontaneous jam sessions take place
in the longhouses, and artistes
Located at the foot of Gunung perform on outdoor stages in the
Santubong, Sarawak Cultural evenings. The exotic setting around a
Village serves as an excellent lake against the backdrop of Gunung
introduction to the cultural Santubong makes for an electric
traditions of Sarawak. Erected atmosphere. Accommodation is
by the Sarawak Development available at the resorts on Damai
Corporation in the early 1990s Beach, and frequent buses run from
to give visitors a taste of indig- Kuching for those who prefer to stay
enous lifestyles, the village in town. It is advisable to check the
comprises seven houses official website (www.rwmf.net) for Jerry Kamit, a sape (lute-like
clustered around a lake, each information on events. instrument) virtuoso
a good example of the trad-
itional dwellings built by the
main indigenous groups. in elaborate costumes is held Gunung Selang and Gunung
Iban, Bidayuh, and Orang Ulu daily at the village’s indoor Sendok – form the backdrop to
longhouses sit side by side theater. There is a well-regarded this wildlife haven. Among the
with a Melanau tall-house, a restaurant at the village, too. dipterocarp (hardwood) forests
Penan hut, a Chinese farm- and gentle waterfalls and
house and a Malay house. streams are more than 90
Women and men of respective 6 Kubah National species of palms and a wide
groups live in these dwellings variety of orchids. Although
and also demonstrate art Park and Matang there are bearded pigs, mouse
and craft skills, such as wood- Wildlife Center deer, and other wildlife, these
carving, textile and basket- 12 miles (20 km) W of Kuching.
are rarely seen. Visitors are more
weaving, sword-making, Tel (082) 248-088. @ from Kuching. likely to spot birds such as the
and beadwork. Outside the Open 8am–5:15pm daily. & ®  maroon woodpecker or the
Melanau tall-house is a ∑ sarawakforestry.com rufus-collared kingfisher.
demonstration of a traditional Several trails crisscross the
sago press, while the process of Encompassing 9 sq miles (22 sq park and the mountains includ-
blowpipe-making can be seen km), Kubah National Park is one ing the beautiful Waterfall Trail
at the Penan hut. Visitors can of the smallest and most that leads through split-level
take part in 3- to 4-day courses accessible parks in Sarawak. A falls and a 2- to 3-hour hike to
to learn a particular skill or sandstone plateau and three the mist-shrouded peak of
craft. A cultural show featuring peaks – the 2,990-ft (911-m) Gunung Serapi. Matang Wildlife
traditional music and dancers Gunung Serapi and the smaller Center is nearby, but gains
mixed reviews for its care of
endangered species such as
orangutans, sambar deer,
hornbills, and proboscis
monkeys. Along the Pitcher Trail
are several varieties of the
carnivorous pitcher plant.
Accommodation for the parks
may be booked in advance at
the Visitor Information Center in
Kuching (see p161) or online at
www.ebooking.gov.my.
O Matang Wildlife Center

8 miles (13 km) N of Kubah. Tel (082)
225-012. @ to Kubah or Matang
Polytechnic, then local minibus. &
-®
A Bidayuh woman weaving rattan baskets at the Sarawak Cultural Village
7 Sematan 8 Tanjung Datu

100 km (62 miles) W of Kuching. National Park
* 2,300. @ from Kuching to Lundu,
14 miles (23 km) from Sematan. g
STC 17 from Lundu.
chartered from Sematan or Teluk
The coastal village of Sematan is Melano. Open Apr–Sep: 8am–5:15pm
a popular weekend retreat for daily. & ∑ sarawakforestry.com
Kuching residents. There is a
long, quiet beach lined with Occupying just 14 sq km (5 sq
coconut palms and colorful miles) on the westernmost tip
fishing boats are harbored in of the state, Tanjung Datu is one
the bay. The village itself is of Sarawak’s smaller, but most
small, consisting of a few rows beautiful, national parks. It has
of shophouses, a local market two stunning beaches, Pasir
with food stalls that serve Antu and Pasir Berunpu, backed
delicious fish dishes, and a jetty. by towering peaks. The real
The tides mean that swimming highlight of the park are the
is not always advisable. Boats beautiful coral reefs, visible in Trekking through a lush trail at Gunung
go from Sematan to Teluk the crystal-clear water and close Gading National Park
Melano, a Malay fishing village enough to the shore to walk
nestled in a pretty bay on the around. Artificial reefs farther should be obtained from the
Datu Peninsula. The village out in the sea are accessible Visitor Information Center in
has a homestay program by boat. The park’s lush Kuching (see p161).
that is organized by the rain forest is home to
Malaysian Fisheries varied wildlife, so
Board, which enables visitors are likely to 9 Gunung Gading
visitors to stay with local hear gibbon-cries National Park
families. Boat trips are not and may even spot
possible in the monsoon dolphins and turtles 50 miles (80 km) W of Kuching.
Flowers at @ STC 17 from Lundu. n Tel (082)
season, from October to near the shore. Tanjung
March. There is also an Tanjung Datu Datu has four trails of 735-714 (Park HQ). Open 8:30am–
5:15pm daily. & 8 ® 
attractive hotel called varying lengths leading
∑ sarawakforestry.com
Sematan Palm Beach Resort through an unspoilt forest and
which is a popular place to stay. coastline. There are no facilities In 1983, Gunung Gading
For a small fee non-residents for visitors at the park, but given National Park was established as
can spend the day here and its natural beauty and the idyllic a conservation area for the
make use of the facilities, which landscape, a day trip to the park world’s largest flower, the
include a swimming pool and is worth the effort. Permits for rafflesia. Visitors can view the
bicycle and canoe hire. the park and entry tickets flowers from walkways which
have been designed to prevent
people from treading on the
fragile young buds that sprout
inconspicuously. The bud grows
into a foul-smelling red flower
with white specks, and reaches
a width of up to 3 ft (1 m). This
rare parasitic plant blooms at
unpredictable times and lasts
only a few days, therefore it is
advisable to call the park
ahead to check if one is in
bloom. Visitors can also see
Amorphophallus, a gigantic
herbaceous plant of the
aroid family.
The park sprawls across four
jungle-clad mountains, Gunung
Gading, Gunung Perigi, Gunung
Lundu, and Gunung Sebuloh.
Color-coded trails of varying
levels of difficulty crisscross the
park. The easiest is the Waterfall
Trail which passes through
Fishing boats docked at the Sematan jetty seven cataracts. The challenging
SARAWAK 167
Gunung Gading Trail leads up

to the summit of the 2,985-ft
(910-m) hill. Visitors will also find
a natural pool near the Park
Headquarters.
0 Wind Cave and

Fairy Cave
31 miles (50 km) SW of Kuching.
@ STC 2 to Bau from Kuching,
then taxi. Tel (082) 765-490.
Open 8am–5:15pm daily. 8 from
Kuching. ∑ sarawakforestry.com
Two caves formed in a range

of limestone cliffs located near
the former gold-mining town
of Bau make an interesting day
trip from Kuching. Wind Cave,
2 miles (3 km) west of Bau, is Mother and baby orangutans at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
made up of a network of under-
ground streams that pass into a popular shrine. Neither of orangutans to their natural
through the cave before joining the two caves is illuminated and habitat is the primary aim of
Sungai Kayan. The cave’s interior flashlights are essential. Be this center and its orangutan
is filled with stalagmite and aware than in the rainy season, rehabilitation program has
stalactite pillars. A boardwalk the caves may be closed. been particularly successful,
passes through the cave to the resulting in a thriving popula-
river at the other end, which is a tion of semi-wild orangutans
popular spot for picnics and q Semenggoh inhabiting the surrounding
swimming. To protect the cave forest. With the forest having
and its surrounding limestone Wildlife Centre reached its capacity to hold
forest, which is home to a 15 miles (24 km) SW of Kuching. the primates, the program has
number of rare plant species, Tel (082) 618-325. @ STC 6 from now been transferred to the
including some types of palms, Kuching. Open 9–11am & 2–4pm Matang Wildlife Center (see
Wind Cave has been designated daily. & ∑ sarawakforestry.com p165). Since the orangutans
as a nature reserve. roam freely, spotting them is
Fairy Cave, 3 miles (5 km) This wildlife center functions as not guaranteed. The best
farther south, is larger and a rehabilitation center for honey chance to see them is feeding
accessed by a flight of steps bears, orangutans, crocodiles, time, around 9am and 3pm.
leading up to the cave mouth. monkeys, gibbons, hornbills, There are also pleasant
Its main chamber also contains and porcupines, all of which walking trails around the
stalagmite formations. One, were either orphaned due to reserve. A Botanical Research
thought to resemble Kuan Yin, hunting or rescued from cages Center here is dedicated to
the Chinese goddess of mercy, where they were kept illegally analyzing jungle plants with
has transformed the chamber as pets. Reintroducing medicinal properties.
The Bidayuh
The Bidayuh are one of the largest indigenous Dayak groups living in Sarawak and have traditionally
been farmers and hunters. Concentrated in the area west of Kuching, their longhouses dot the slopes
of Anna Rais. Unlike other Dayak groups of Sarawak,
they build their longhouses at the foot of hills rather
than on riverbanks. The British referred to them as
“Land Dayaks” to distinguish them from the “Sea
Dayaks” – such as the Iban – who traveled everywhere
by boat. The Bidayuh are particularly skilled at
bamboo-carving, basket-weaving, and beadwork.
Women can be seen sitting on the ruai, or communal
veranda, making bead-covered hats that are used for
special occasions. Among these is the Gawai Padi
festival, held in early June, when Bidayuhs give thanks
to the rice goddess for a bountiful harvest. The
celebration involves singing, dancing, and drinking. The terrace, ruai, of a Bidayuh longhouse
w Bako National Park

Established in 1957, Bako was Sarawak’s first national South China Sea
park. Spread across 10 sq miles (27 sq km), it nurtures

vegetation that ranges from rain forest to swampland
and mangrove forests to kerangas, or scrubland. With Area of map
steep rocky cliffs punctuated by deep bays, white Illustrated
sandy beaches, and a mangrove-fringed coastline,

Bako is a nature-lover’s paradise. It is also one of the
best parks in Malaysia for spotting rare animals, such
as proboscis monkeys, bearded pigs, sambar deer,
and macaques, which makes it a popular destination 0 kilometers 1
for wildlife enthusiasts. Though the park can be visited
0 miles 1
on a day trip, the chances of wildlife sightings are
higher in the early morning and in the evening, so
an overnight stay is recommended. Teluk
Pandan
Kecil Teluk
Pandan
Besar
Teluk Batu
ra il
Belah
rT
sa
Be
Teluk Paku
an
nd
Pa
uk
l
Te
Kampung
Teluk
Bako
Assam Ta
jor
Bukit
Bako Park Tambi
Headquarters
Tanjung
Sapi
. Sea Stacks
m
sa
These towering rock formations are a peculiar characteristic Teluk Ulu As

of Bako’s coastline. They were formed by the action of the Delima
sea on the softer sandstone at the base of the cliffs, which
Serait Trail
l
eroded, leaving behind pillars of harder limestone. g Trai
an
nt
Li
KEY
1 Lintang Trail is a 3-mile- (5-km-)

long loop route that climbs to a
sandstone plateau before plunging
down to the coast.
2 Teluk Delima Trail is one of
the best trails in Bako for spotting
. Bako’s Wildlife
proboscis monkeys.
Bako offers opportunities to spot a diverse range of
wildlife, including flying lemurs, monitor lizards, and 3 Tajor Trail, 2 miles (3 km) long,
150 species of birds. However, the stars of the park includes a brisk climb up to kerangas
are the endangered proboscis monkeys, named for scrubland before descending into a
their prominent nose, who forage in groups for shady forest.
mangrove leaves.
SARAWAK 169
Sundew Plant
With much of the soil in
Bako lacking nutrients,
carnivorous plants such
as the pitcher and
Tel (011) 225-049 (Park HQ).
sundew plants must
Open 8am–4:15pm daily. - ®
attract and trap insects
 Permits: for camping, book in
to derive sustenance
advance in Kuching at the Visitor
from their victims.
Information Center (see p161) or
online at www.ebooking.gov.my.
Transport
@ to Bako village, then boat to
the Park.
Tanjung Rhu
Exploring the Park

There are 18 trails in the park, and each one is color-
Tanju
coded with splashes of paint on trees, making it easy

to explore without a guide. Viewpoints along the trails
ng R
offer great views. There are lodges and a campsite

near the Park Headquarters but bookings should be
huT
made well in advance.

rai
Teluk
S ou th C hina
l
Tajor
Se a
Tel
Ni
uk S
pah
Kerangas
ibur
Trail F o r es t
Trail
jor
Ta
Tel uk Lim au
T Trail
aj
or
ail
g Tr
on
elut
Bukit
Keruing
. Tajor Waterfall
a J
Pay
A popular picnic spot, Tajor Waterfall is

Ulu Buki
tG 2 miles (4 km) down the Tajor Trail. The
Serait
Trail waterfall is quite small and has a dip pool.
on
The best time to visit is after a heavy

dol T
rainfall. It takes about two hours to get to

Serait l
ra i
the waterfall from the Park Headquarters.
Bukit Gondol
853 ft
Monkey Business in Bako

Relatively accustomed to the
presence of visitors, long-tailed
Key macaques are easy to spot as they
Trail
scavenge for food near the Park
Headquarters. While a close sighting
Park boundary can initially be thrilling, macaques
Peak can be intimidating and are likely to
snatch bags or possessions left
unguarded for a moment. Even the
garbage disposal system has had
to be specially designed to keep the A female macaque carrying
macaques out. an infant

Colorful longboats moored on the banks of the Batang Rajang
e Batang Rajang Rajang. The jetties of all the r Sibu

towns teem with huge ekspres
From Kuching. g Bintawa Wharf, 120 miles (193 km) NE of Kuching.
boats as well as the smaller, * 260,000. ~ @ Sungei Antu.
daily boat from Kuching to Sibu at
8:30am (takes 4 hours). ( daily. motorized longboats. It is g Jalan Khoo Peng Loong. n 32
_ Gawai Padi Festival (May–Jun). possible to travel the entire Jalan Cross, (084) 340-980. ( daily.
distance from Kuching to
Flowing 348 miles (560 km) Belaga by boat. The first leg of The capital of Sarawak’s largest
through the heart of Sarawak, this journey is up to the town of district, Sibu is also the major
the vast Batang Rajang is Sibu, the principal transport port of the province and an
Sarawak’s longest river and the hub on the Batang Rajang. The important economic center,
main artery of trade for towns in jetties are divided between managing trade between the
the central and southern parts upriver and downriver traffic, coast and the hinterland. The
of the province. The upper which provides easy access town’s early growth was funded
reaches are the heartland of the to Kanowit and Kapit. by the rubber industry,
timber industry, and the river is The journey from run mostly by Chinese
often muddy with topsoil and Kapit to the town of merchants who were
littered with debris from various Belaga, a further six encouraged by Rajah
logging operations. hours away, passes Charles Brooke to set
This region is populated through the treach- up businesses here.
largely by the indigenous erous Pelagus Later, they also
people, and the banks of the Rapids, a 1.5-mile established a thriving
river and its tributaries are (2.5-km) stretch of timber trade.
scattered with longhouses. cataracts and whirl- Among the
The lower reaches of the river pools caused by a sights of Sibu is the
are inhabited predominantly sudden drop in the 100-year-old temple
by the Iban people, while the riverbed. Boats may dedicated to Tua Pek
upper section mostly contains not run at all on this Temple guardian, Tua Pek Kong, the patron saint
the dwellings of the Kayan stretch when the Kong Temple of merchants. Located
and Kenyah. Trips up the water level in the on the western end
river to these longhouses can rapids is dangerously low, of the waterfront, the temple
be arranged through tour usually between May and has a beautiful seven-story
operators in Kuching, Sibu, August. Beyond Belaga, the pagoda with fantastic views.
and Kapit. Independent travel Rajang divides into Sungai Set in the former municipal
is also possible, but it is Belaga and Batang Balui. council building, the Sibu Civic
essential that visitors wait to The best time for a trip up the Center Heritage Museum
be invited in before entering Batang Rajang is between late traces the town’s history
a traditional longhouse. May and early June to coincide through old photographs and
Boats are a major form of with the Gawai Padi (see p57) artifacts, including some skulls
transportation between the festival celebrated by the Dayak from from the era of head-
towns that flank the Batang people in their longhouses. hunting tribes. The museum
SARAWAK 171
also has a rich collection of in the late afternoon, as most

white ceramics that dates back longhouse residents work in the
to the 10th and 12th centuries. fields through the day. Guests
are usually shown around and
Environs often offered a glass of tuak, the
About 40 miles (65 km) upriver potent rice wine. An overnight
of Sibu, Kanowit is a small place stay can be arranged.
with few sights of interest. The
main highlight is Fort Emma, P Fort Sylvia
built by Rajah James Brooke in Jalan Kubu. Open 10am–noon,
1859 and named after his sister. 2–5pm Tue–Sun.
Constructed of bamboo and P Rumah Bundong
timber, it was an attempt to @ irregular service from Jalan Airport,
prevent Iban raids on Melanau Kapit.
tribes on the Batang Rajang.
Eventually, it became key to the
success of the Rajahs’ rule. The Vegetable vendor at the daily market y Belaga
fort is not open to the public. in Kapit
93 miles (150 km) NE of Kapit.
* 25,300. ~ to Bintulu. g from
E Sibu Civic Center Heritage for artisans. There is also an Kapit. ( daily. Belaga Hotel: 14
Museum interesting museum at the Belaga Bazaar. Tel (086) 461-244.
Jalan Sentral. Tel (082) 240-620. town’s civic center, which has
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. displays of Iban and Orang Ulu The last settlement of any
longhouses as well as photo- significant size on the Batang
graphs of the early days. Rajang, Belaga has a wider mix
t Kapit Kapit is also a trading center of ethnic groups than any other
for the indigenous people that town in Sarawak. Apart from
124 miles (200 km) E of Sibu.
* 99,840. ~ g from Sibu.
inhabit the upriver areas. A lively Iban, Kayan, Kenyah, and Penan
n (084) 796-445. market sets up daily, near the people, who bring their jungle
center of town, packed with produce to sell at the Belaga
Kapit is a small but bustling vendors selling jungle produce, bazaar, the town is also visited
riverside town, with an attrac- such as vegetables, tropical by seasonal collectors of wild
tive waterfront lined with trees fruits, and beeswax. A major honey from Kalimantan. Few
and plants. The town’s main draw for most visitors is a foreign visitors make it so deep
landmark is the historic Fort chance to visit the remote into Sarawak, but if they do, it is
Sylvia, a whitewashed longhouses along the upper one of the best places to
ironwood structure named after tributaries of the mighty arrange visits to Kenyah and
the wife of Vyner Brooke, the Batang Rajang. Kayan longhouses, common to
third of the White Rajahs. It was this section of the river. These
built in 1880 in an effort to Environs longhouses feature salong, or
control Iban head-hunting Located just 6 miles (10 km) intricately carved tomb markers,
parties in the region. In 1997 the from Kapit, Rumah Bundong is which can be seen from a
fort was listed as a historical an authentic Iban longhouse distance. Arrangements for a
monument, and now houses a that is the home to about 40 longhouse visit can be made at
museum and a training center families. The best time to visit is the Belaga Hotel.
The whitewashed exterior of Fort Sylvia on the Kapit waterfront

u Mukah
112 miles (180 km) NE of Kuching.
* 55,000. ~ from Kuching only.
@ _ Pesta Kaul (2nd week of Apr).
Located on the coast north of

Sibu (see p170), Mukah is a quiet
fishing town that offers a
glimpse into the lifestyle of the
Melanau, the indigenous group
that predominates in this
region. A few of their traditional
tall-houses can still be seen in
the area, although most
Melanau prefer simple Malay
dwellings now. The majority of A boardwalk across a small stream in Similajau National Park
the town’s sights are clustered
along the south bank of Sungai and Bintulu Port, Malaysia’s o Similajau
Mukah, and include the market second-largest deep-sea port. National Park
and Tua Pek Kong Temple, Among the prominent build-
whose walls are adorned with ings in town is a tower called 19 miles (30 km) NE of Bintulu.
well-executed murals of the Council Negeri Monument. Tel (086) 391-284. @ g speedboat
from Bintulu. Open 8am–12:30pm &
Buddhist and Taoist deities. Located in the western part of
1:30–5:15pm daily. & ® 
Mukah springs to life in mid- town near the river, the monu- ∑ sarawakforestry.com
April to celebrate the Pesta Kaul ment commemorates the first
(see p57) festival, held annually meeting of the Legislative Occupying just 27 sq miles
to appease the sea spirits and Council of Sarawak during (70 sq km), Similajau National
mark the beginning of a new September 1867. Also worth Park was established in 1976 to
fishing season. As part of the visiting are Masjid Assyakirin, a create a protected habitat for
festivities, the Melanau dance to Moorish-style mosque bearing the green turtles that nest on
folk rhythms on the beach and a distinctive blue dome and set its beaches each year. Similajau
sway back and forth on a tibau, in landscaped grounds, and is one of Sarawak’s least-
a tall swing used as part of a Kuan Yin Tong Temple, which visited parks.
fertility rite. features a beautiful rock garden A 19-mile (31-km) strip of
A short distance from town is and an artificial waterfall. coastline lined by trees and
Kampung Tellian, a fishing Across the river, Kampung punctuated by rocky headlands
village with winding lanes and Jepak features Melanau stilt offers visitors some of the
narrow bridges. Here, the Lamin houses and is famous for its country’s best beaches. The
Dana Cultural Boutique is a belacan, a pungent shrimp park’s main walking trail is well
cultural center and guesthouse paste used in Malay cooking. marked and follows the coast.
dedicated to the preservation of Taman Tumbina, a short dis- Interesting routes branch off
Melanau culture, with exhibits tance north of town, is a from it, including the
of textiles, betel nut boxes, and compact recreational park with Viewpoint and the Selansur
rattan baskets. As well as a zoo, the ideal place to escape Rapids trails. The path ends at
accommodation, it also has the bustle of town. Golden Beach, which is great
a restaurant. for swimming. Walkers can look
out for gibbons and banded
E Lamin Dana Cultural langurs, as well as flying foxes,
Boutique which are under threat
Kampung Tellian. n (082) 241-735. elsewhere due to excessive
hunting. The park supports
over 180 bird species, including
i Bintulu the hook-billed bulbul and the
372 miles (600 km) NE of Kuching. * wrinkled hornbill. Saltwater
100,000. ~ @ g ∑ bintulu.org crocodiles live in some of the
larger rivers and signs warn
Originally a fishing and farming against swimming here.
center on Sungai Kemena, Dolphins and porpoises are
Bintulu experienced a period of occasionally found swimming in
intense development in the late the area. One of the best ways
1970s when Malaysia’s largest to enjoy the park is to hire a
natural gas reserves were found boat to explore its waterways
just offshore. This led to the Monument marking the founding of the and the coastline. Ask about this
construction of an oil terminal Sarawak Legislative Council at the park HQ.
SARAWAK 173
Iban Longhouses
Traditionally, all indigenous groups of Sarawak lived in communal longhouses that
reflected the tight-knit nature of tribal culture. One of the largest Dayak groups, the Iban
migrated to Sarawak from Kalimantan’s Kapual River basin (now in Indonesia) between
the 16th and 18th centuries. Most Iban longhouses, called rumah panjang, or rumah
panjai, are located in the Skrang, Lemanak, Batang Ai, and Batang Rajang areas, and
visiting them often involves a longboat trip. Generally erected next to rivers, most
longhouses are stilt dwellings built of timber, with thatched roofs and bamboo or rattan
woven walls tied together with fiber from creepers. Staying in a longhouse is the
highlight of a visit to the province as the Iban make excellent hosts, often welcoming
visitors with tuak, or rice wine, a meal, and providing a longhouse tour.
Traditional thatched roofs are Stilts support the structure, which Private rooms, or bilek, line
now often replaced by the more is accessed by steps made of the ruai, a long, covered
durable corrugated iron. steeply angled tree trunks. communal veranda.
A Traditional Longhouse The area beneath the living quarters has

chickens and pigs, rooting for scraps which
The main internal division of the longhouse is created by fall through the bamboo slats.
a wall through the center of the building. On one side is a
wide communal veranda, while on the other is a row of
bilek, or private rooms, each entered by a single door. The
kitchen area is inside the bilek.
An outdoor veranda called tanju fronts

the longhouse and runs along the
length of the building. The veranda’s
split-bamboo floor is exposed to rain
A wide public veranda, or ruai, runs down the middle of and sun. This area is used mainly for
the longhouse, with all bilek facing out onto it. The ruai is drying rice, coffee, cocoa beans, pepper,
used for socializing and making handicraft items. and even clothes.
p Miri most spectacular attractions.

In 1958, Tom Harrison, curator
516 miles (830 km) NE of Kuching. *
of the Sarawak Museum in
300,000. Tel (082) 764-231. ~ @ (
Sat & Sun. _ Miri International Jazz
Kuching, discovered skulls
Festival (May), Hari Gawai (Jun). and tools at the mouth of the
∑ miricity.com.my Great Cave – evidence that the
caves had been inhabited by
Originally a quiet fishing village, humans 40,000 years ago.
Sarawak’s second-largest city With the enormous Great Cave
Miri emerged as a major as its centerpiece, the national
commercial center when park was established in 1975,
Malaysia’s first oil well was covering 12 sq miles (32 sq km)
drilled here in 1910. In the of dense rain forest and
1970s, the onshore oilfields limestone outcrops.
closed down and Miri shifted its Vegetables laid out for sale in the Tamu From the Park Headquarters, a
focus to tourism. Muhibbah market, Miri short boat ride across Sungai
Packed with markets and Niah takes visitors to the board-
cafés, the atmospheric old town the country and have been a walk that links the caves. The
around Jalan China is the liveliest boost to Miri’s tourism industry. first is Traders’ Cave, named for
part of the city. Among the most the guano and birds’ nest
interesting markets is Tamu U Al Taqwa Mosque collectors who once sold their
Muhibbah, or local market, Jalan Merpati. Tel (085) 412-291. harvest here. Farther along is
where upriver indigenous Open non-Muslims welcome outside the Great Cave, one of the
people come to sell jungle prayer times. world’s largest caves. It mea-
produce such as tropical fruits, E Petroleum Museum sures a staggering 820 ft (250 m)
rattan mats, and Bario rice. Canada Hill. Open 9am–5pm Tue– in width and has a 196-ft- (60-m-)
The Al Taqwa Mosque, with Sun. ^ high cave mouth. It is home to
its whitewashed arches and a several species of swiftlets and
huge golden dome framed by bats, and during the harvest
palm trees is also worth a visit. a Niah Caves season, nest and bat guano
Perhaps Miri’s most significant National Park collectors camp inside the cave.
site, perched atop Canada Hill, is From within the Great Cave, the
71 miles (115 km) S of Miri. n park
Oil Well No. 1, which is known as headquarters, Pengkalan Batu, Miri;
trail continues to the Painted
“the Grand Old Lady”. The site of (085) 737-450. @ from Bintulu or Cave, where there are ancient
Malaysia’s first oil excavation, it is from Miri to Batu Niah, then taxi. rock paintings made with red
now a National Monument. Open 8am–5pm daily. & 8 - = hematite stone. Several small
Close to it, the Petroleum ®  may be booked in advance at boat-shaped coffins called
Museum documents the Miri’s Visitor Information Center. death-ships were also found
growth of this industry. ∑ sarawakforestry.com in the cave, indicating that it
The superb reefs around Miri’s may have been used once as a
coast, teeming with electric- Considered by many to be the burial chamber. The paintings
blue angel fish and blue- most important archaeological and the coffins are protected by
spotted stingrays, are ranked as site in Southeast Asia, the Niah a fence. Visitors need to bring
the best and healthiest reefs in caves are among Sarawak’s their own torches.
Rock formations in the Painted Cave at Niah Caves National Park

SARAWAK 175
d Loagan Bunut f Kelabit

National Park Highlands
75 miles (120 km) SE of Miri. Tel (085) 116 miles (190 km) SE of Miri. ~
775-118. @ from Miri to Lapok, then from Miri to Bario. 8 from Miri.
taxi. Open 8am–5pm daily. & ® ∑ kelabit.net
accommodation must be booked in
advance at the Visitor Information
One of Borneo’s most isolated
Center in Kuching or Miri. and unspoilt regions, Kelabit
∑ sarawakforestry.com Highlands is a 3,281-ft- (1,000-m-)
high plateau that is home to the
Consisting of Bunut Lake, hospitable Kelabit people. A visit
Sarawak’s biggest freshwater to one of their longhouses is a
lake, and the surrounding dense highlight of a trip to this spec-
peat swamp and dipterocarp tacular region. Among the most
forest, Loagan Bunut National populous of the highland
Park is a bird-watcher’s paradise. settlements is Bario, which
A profusion of bird species nestles in a lush valley. The
Pantu waterfall at Lambir Hills inhabit this park, including village has a small airport and a
National Park herons, darters, kingfishers, few lodging houses, and these
egrets, magpies, robins, and make it a good base for
s Lambir Hills hornbills. The lake is exploring the region. Day trips
dependent on the from Bario include a visit to
National Park water levels of the the beautiful longhouse at
20 miles (32 km) S of Miri. Bunut and Tinjar Pa Umor. A longer and
n park headquarters, (085) 471-609. rivers, and often dries much more challenging
@ from Miri. Open 8am–5pm daily. up completely for a outing is the 5-day
& - ®  may be booked in few weeks in February, trek along the Bario
advance at the Visitor Information May, and June. At this Loop. The trail offers
Center in Kuching or Miri. time, the local fishermen Kingfisher at delightful views, and
practice a unique type of Loagan Bunut trekkers have the option
fishing called selambau of making overnight
With its range of rugged to catch fish that are stranded stays at the Ramudu, Pa Dalih,
sandstone hills, mixed dip- in the receding waters. The fish or Long Dano longhouses. For
terocarp (hardwood) forest, low- are scooped up in huge nets serious mountain climbing
lying kerangas, or scrubland, mounted on spoon-shaped head to Gunung Murud,
and teeming wildlife, Lambir wooden frames. Boat cruises located 12 miles (20 km) north
Hills National Park is a popular on the lake’s tranquil waters, of Bario. At 7,999 ft (2,438 m),
weekend getaway from Miri. especially rewarding in the Murud is Sarawak’s highest peak
Among its main attractions are early morning and dusk, can and is seen as a holy mountain
sparkling waterfalls that cascade be arranged at the Park by the indigenous people of
into natural swimming pools. Headquarters. A few trails, the highlands. Scaling its sheer
There are also some excellent lined with tapang and belian walls should only be attempted
jungle trails that lead to the falls, trees, lead through the forest. by fit and experienced climbers.
ranging from easy 15-minute Limited access makes this a There are two main trails up
strolls to all-day hikes. The seldom-visited park, but new the mountain and having a
longest is the 4-hour trek to the roads and visitor facilities are guide is advisable. All the treks
summit of Bukit Lambir for a being planned to attract can be arranged through the
scenic view of the park. Closest tourists to the park. lodges at Bario.
to the Park Headquarters is the
Latak waterfall, with an enticing
pool and sandy beach, while
deeper into the jungle are the
Pantu and Pancur waterfalls.
Although the animals here
may be difficult to spot, the
national park is home to flying
squirrels, gibbons, pangolins,
clouded leopard, and barking
deer, as well as numerous
species of birds. There are
several Iban longhouses,
including Rumah Nakat,
which has an interesting
traditional handicraft center. Lush paddy fields near Bario in the Kelabit Highlands
g Mulu National Park

Listed both as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Rainforest BRUNEI
Conservation Area, Mulu National Park is one of Sarawak’s

premier tourist destinations. Named for the sandstone peak
of Gunung Mulu, it is a region of great natural beauty. The Area of map
Illustrated
park encompasses over 200 sq miles (500 sq km) of rain forest
and has two mountain ranges and some of the largest caves
in the world. Gorges, valleys, and underground passages in
the park provide the ideal habitat for an abundance of flora MALAYSIA
and fauna, including several species of orchids and hornbills.
Trekking up to the limestone pinnacles of Gunung Api,
exploring Clearwater and Deer caves, and traversing the
Canopy Skywalk are among the park’s highlights.
Key
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary
Peak
. Clearwater Cave
au
Thought to be the longest in Southeast Asia, the 62-mile-

Lu
lin
e
L
(100-km-) long Clearwater Cave features spectacular

tut
M
AI
TR
natural formations of helictites and photokarsts.

AU
N
LI
E
M
Kuala Birar
Melinau
Wind Cave
G MULU
NUN TR
GU
Mulu AIL
Airport
Ni
pa
Mulu Rainforest Lang’s

Resort Cave
. Deer Cave and Bat Exodus

The 571-ft- (175-m-) high cave mouth of Deer Cave is
the largest in the world. At sunset, millions of freetail
bats stream out of it in a writhing spiral as they fly off
to look for food.
SARAWAK 177
93 miles (150 km) E of Miri.
n Lot 452, Jalan Melayu, Miri;
(085) 792-300. & 8 Wind and
Clearwater Caves: 9:30–10:30am;
Deer and Lang’s Caves: 3:30–
4:30pm. - ® available at Park
Headquarters.  Ó Permits for
trekking are available at Park
Headquarters. ∑ mulupark.com
Transport
~ to Mulu. g from Miri.
. The Pinnacles
One of the park’s most memorable sights, these 147-ft- (45-m-) high
razor-sharp spikes of rock on Gunung Api were formed by erosion, and
can only be reached by a steep climb.
Kuala AIL
TR
M
Terikan S
ed
R’
alam
NTE
HU
AD
HE
Tiger
Cave Gunung Benarat
5,167 ft
A visitor braving the Canopy Skywalk
Mel
ina
u
Canopy Skywalk
Go
rg Mulu National Park’s popular attraction is the 1,575-ft- (480-m-)
e
long Canopy Skywalk, which is among the longest in the
world. A series of swaying walkways is held aloft by steel
Gunung Api cables about 66 ft (20 m) above the ground, offering visitors
5,723 ft the chance to explore the forest canopy, to get close up to the
several species of birds that inhabit the park, and provides an
aerial view of the swamp below. The 2-hour guided walk must
Me
li be booked in advance.
na
uG
or
ge
Sarawak 0 km 3
Chamber
0 miles 3
u
Melinau Pak
KEY
1 Park Headquarters, located

Gunung Mulu
7,799 ft to the southwest of the park, is the
starting point for all explorations
of Gunung Mulu.
2 Gunung Mulu Trail, a 4-day
guided trek to the summit of Gunung
Mulu, is exhilarating. It passes through
Exploring the Park some of the park’s wildest terrain.
Mulu National Park has exceptional facilities with well- 3 Headhunter’s Trail is named for
maintained wooden walkways and a good network of local indigenous people who used
paths. Most visitors arrive by plane and have accom- this route on raiding expeditions.
modation options such as the five-star Marriott Royal 4 Gunung Mulu, at a height of
Mulu Resort, chalets, and dormitories in the park. The Bat 7,799 ft (2,377 m), is the second-
Exodus and the view from the Canopy Skywalk are highest peak in Sarawak.
fascinating. There are regular tours of the main caves.
h Brunei
Located on the northwest coast of Borneo, East Malaysia
and hemmed in by the borders of Sarawak, the Sultanate of
Brunei Darussalam is among the world’s smallest countries.
It played a pivotal role in Borneo’s history, with its sultans
having once controlled vast tracts of the island’s north and
west. Today, Brunei occupies 2,226 sq miles (5,765 sq km).
Most of the country is a low-lying coastal plain backed by rain
forest and hills. Off the west coast lie vast oil fields, which are
responsible for the country’s affluence. It is divided into four
districts: Brunei Muara which includes Bandar Seri Begawan,
A view of the capital city, Bandar
the capital; Tutong, an agricultural region; Belait, the center of
Seri Begawan
the oil industry; and Temburong, an area of natural beauty.
Tasek Merimbun
Brunei’s largest lake,
this tranquil expanse
of water is a popular
spot for picnics and
bird-watching.
A wooden walkway
leads to a tiny wooded
island where eagles
and falcons are
Pantai Seri Tutong
commonly spotted. Kenangan
Kampung
Sungai Abang
Liang Lamunin
Kuala Seria Sungai Liang

Belait Forest Reserve
Badas
Be
Belaban
lai
t
BELAIT
TUTONG
Kuala
Balai
Labi
Labi
This quiet agricultural town relies mainly on the harvest Sukang
of fruits such as durian and rambutan. The 31-mile-
(50-km-) long Labi Road is dotted with Iban longhouses.
t
lai
Be
Sultan of Brunei
Head of the world’s oldest
hereditary monarchy, Sultan
Hassanal Bolkiah is Brunei’s
r
pi
ni
reigning sultan and prime Key

Pe
minister, as well as its defense

Major road
and finance minister. Best
known for his legendary personal Minor road
fortune and vast car collection, International border
the sultan has attempted to State border
share his nation’s oil wealth by
providing free education and Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, the Peak
health care for his people. reigning Sultan of Brunei

BRUNEI 179
120 miles (193 km) NE of Miri.
* 390,000. n Jalan Menteri
Besar, Bandar Seri Begawan; (673)
238-2822. _ National Day (Feb),
Sultan’s Birthday (Jul).
∑ bruneitourism.travel
Transport
k g from Miri, Kuala
Lumpur, Lawas.
. Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Built in 1958 and named for Brunei’s 28th sultan, this mosque is a
classic example of Islamic architecture. With its minarets and 171-ft-
(52-m-) high golden dome reflected in the surrounding lagoon, it
makes an impressive sight.
. Kampung Ayer
Muara
Berakas Built entirely on stilts along the
Seresa Brunei River, Kampung Ayer is a
cluster of 28 villages housing an
estimated 30,000 people. The
Bandar Seri
Begawan community is a reflection of the
country’s traditional way of life.
BRUNEI Sipitang
MUARA
Labu
g Limbang
an
b
Lim
Bantu Bangar
Danau
TE MB U RONG
. Istana
Nur-ul-Iman
Batang Duri The world’s largest
Kampung residential palace, the
Te
Temada Istana Nur-ul-Iman is
m
bu
the official home of

rong
the Sultan of Brunei.

Tuton
It contains nearly
2,000 rooms, a
g
U l u Te m b u r o n g
National Park sumptuous throne
room, and a banquet
Bukit hall for 4,000 diners.
Pagon
6,070 ft
0 km 20
0 miles 20
KEY
1 Pantai Seri Kenangan is a

beautiful strip of beach separating
the Tutong River from the South
China Sea.
2 Bukit Pagon, at a height of Ulu Temburong National Park
6,070 ft (1,850 m), is the highest Covering about 10 percent of Brunei, this national park is the
peak of Brunei and is located in country’s foremost nature preserve. Its canopy walkway gives
Ulu Temburong National Park. visitors a chance to spot the flying lizards, hornbills, and gibbons
that inhabit the park.
SABAH
Malaysia’s second-largest state, with a population of three million,
Sabah sits on the northeastern tip of Borneo. Located just south
of the typhoon belt, this Land below the Wind is geographically
stunning, with magnificent caves, coral reefs, forests, and
mountains. It is also the ideal destination for adventure activities
including mountain climbing, white-water rafting, and diving.
Archaeological excavations reveal countries. However, with ecotourism

evidence of prehistoric human habitation contributing to the state’s finances, and
in eastern Sabah approximately 40,000 abundant agricultural produce, such as
years ago. This remote province, with palm oil, Sabah’s economy is developing.
over 30 indigenous groups, as well as Sandakan, the administrative capital
immigrants from China, Indonesia, and the between 1883 and 1942, and Kota
Philippines, was nominally ruled by the Kinabalu, the present state capital, were
sultans of Brunei for centuries until the both almost completely destroyed during
British negotiated the rights to exploit the World War II, but today they have been
region’s reserves of rubber, tobacco, and rebuilt and are charming destinations.
timber in the late 19th century. Although From Kota Kinabalu it is an easy journey
the British never had a stable leadership north to the Tip of Borneo, south to the
over Sabah, they clung on to power, with Padas River for white-water rafting, and
the region continuing to be known as northeast to Gunung Kinabalu for a
North Borneo until it joined the Federation challenging trek. Sandakan is a good base
of Malaysia in 1963. from which to visit the dive sites that lie
Today, Sabah’s economy lags behind that off the east coast and the nature reserves
of other states in Malaysia because of an at Sukau and Danum Valley. Sabah also
inequitable distribution of wealth between offers visitors a cultural experience with
the state and federal governments, and an its vibrant tamus (markets) held weekly,
influx of immigrants from neighboring and fascinating longhouses.
Rafflesia, one of Sabah’s most unusual and pungent attractions
Sunrise striking St John’s Peak in Kinabalu National Park

Exploring Sabah
The state is characterized by steep mountains, including
Malaysia’s three tallest peaks, and lush valleys teeming with Key
magnificent wildlife and marine life. The highlights of a visit Major road
to Sabah are a trek up Gunung Kinabalu, diving trips from Minor road
the islands of Sipadan and Lankayan, and white-water Railroad
rafting on the Padas River. Danum Valley is excellent for International border
wildlife spotting while the villages of Kota Belud, Gombizau, State border
Bavanggazo, and Sumangkap offer an opportunity to Peak
interact with indigenous groups in memorable ways.
Sights at a Glance
Towns and Village r Kinabalu National Park pp190–91
1 Kota Kinabalu y Sepilok Orangutan
7 Mari Mari Cultural Village Rehabilitation Center TIP OF
BORNEO
8 Kota Belud u Turtle Island National Park
9 Gombizau o Kinabatangan Wildlife
0 Sumangkap Sanctuary KUDAT
q Bavanggazo a Tabin Wildlife Reserve BAVANGGAZO
w Kudat h Tawau Hills State Park SUMANGKAP
t Sandakan GOMBIZAU
River
d Semporna South
6 Padas River
g Tawau China Rampayan
Islands and Beaches Sea
Areas of Natural Beauty
5 Pulau Labuan KOTA BELUD
4 Klias Wetlands
K
i Pulau Lankayan
e Tip of Borneo LU AR
f Pulau Sipadan pp200–201 TUNKU A BA L P
p Gomantong Caves ABDUL RAHMAN K I NO N A
s Danum Valley I
N AT
NATIONAL PARK
MARI MARI CULTURAL
Parks and Preserves KOTA KINABALU VILLAGE
Ranau
2 Tunku Abdul Rahman
National Park TAMBUNAN RAFFLESIA
Papar FOREST RESERVE
3 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Bidon
Reserve n s
Kimanis
Illanum t ai Gunung
Trus Madi
n 8,570 ft
ou
Mansud
M
Membakut
Klias
r
ke
Keningau
Menumbok Beaufort Lanas
oc
Cr
Pingas
Soo
PULAU KLIAS PADAS RIVER

LABUAN WETLANDS Nabawan
Tenom Sook
Sipitang
Bandar Seri Malaman
Begawan Pendawang
Gunung Napotong
4,888 ft
Melutut Rundum Sapulut

Maligan
Gunung Antulai
5,620 ft
Gunung Muruk Miau

6,834 ft Sigattal
Lush tropical rain forest at Kinabalu

National Park
SABAH 183
Aerial view of Pulau Sipadan, one of Malaysia’s top dive sites

Pulau
Blambangan
Getting Around
Pulau Banggi
Domestic flights are the best way of getting around Sabah.
Daily flights connect Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan, Lahad Datu,
Pulau Malawali Tawau, and Kudat. The state’s main road connects Kota Kinabalu
Inaruntong to Kudat in the north and Tawau and Sandakan in the east. The
Sulu smaller roads often fall into disrepair, causing delays. The only
Telaga rail line in Sabah is the short stretch connecting Kota Kinabalu
Sea to Tenom. Regular ferries connect Kota Kinabalu to most coastal
Pulau towns, Menumbok to Pulau Labuan, and Sandakan to Turtle
Kanibongan Jambongan
Island National Park. Visitors should be aware that there
Semangat
Golong
have been travel advisories issued by the UK and US
governments advising against travel to some parts of
Terusan PULAU Sabah (see also p324). At present these affect
LANGKAYAN
Simpangan Tawau, Semporna, and east coast islands
Sugut including Lankayan and Sipadan. Check your
Sungai Sungai
government’s website for the latest situation.
TURTLE ISLAND 0 kilometers

ud NATIONAL PARK
50
ng Klagan
Tu
0 miles 50
Beluran
SANDAKAN
SEPILOK ORANGUTAN
REHABILITATION CENTER Abai
Telupid
GOMANTONG
CAVES
S A B A H Lamag KINABATANGAN WILDLIFE
SANCTUARY
Pintasan
a Tomanggong
abatanga
Kin n am
Kuamut eg
TABIN WILDLIFE
S
Tangkulap
ns
t ai RESERVE
o un Kadang Segama
Sahabat
Gunung Kuli M
4,551 ft n Lahad Datu Tungku
ra
EY
Gunung Lotung
5,469 ft
ja LL
Bakapit
n
a VA
B UM Pulau Tabawan
DAN
Kunak
Luasong Pulau Timbun Mata
Gunung Ka
Tambulanan la Sapang
3,605 ft ba
k an
TAWAU
Kalabakan HILLS STATE PARK SEMPORNA
Gunung Luis
4,678 ft Merutai
Indarasabak
Serudong TAWAU
Mambalua
PULAU
Nunukan SIPADAN

Stilt village and State Mosque in Kota Kinabalu, the fastest-growing city and capital of Sabah
1 Kota Kinabalu building of the Sabah of musical instruments, swords,

190 miles (300 km) NE of Miri. k £
Foundation. An observatory spears, blowpipes, ethnic
g n Sabah Tourism Board, 51 Jalan on Signal Hill offers a sweeping costumes, and displays on the
Gaya; (088) 212- 121. ( Sun. view of the city and offshore various uses of bamboo. The
∑ sabahtourism.com islands. Kota Kinabalu is the archaeology gallery displays
best base from which to explore intricately carved coffins. A “time
The capital of Sabah, Kota Sabah’s northwest coast, tunnel” exhibit documents the
Kinabalu occupies a narrow including the magnificent arrival of Filipino and Indonesian
stretch of land between the Gunung Kinabalu (see pp190–93) immigrants, the colonial era, the
western seafront and a range of and Tunku Abdul Rahman Japanese occupation, and the
forested hills. Formerly known National Park. incorporation of Sabah into the
as Jesselton, it became the Federation of Malaysia in 1963.
provincial capital after World E Sabah Museum In front of the museum is a
War II, and was renamed Kota Jalan Muzium. Tel (088) 253-199. @ small but interesting collection
Kinabalu in 1967. Most of its Open 9am–5pm daily. & 8 7 ^ of vintage cars.
historic buildings were - ∑ museum.sabah.gov.my The museum grounds also
destroyed by bombing during The Sabah Museum is set amid contain a Heritage Village,
the war and the city had to be spacious grounds, and is which has excellent examples
completely rebuilt. Only three designed in the style of a of houses of Sabah’s main
structures remain of the old Rungus longhouse. The indigenous groups. The Murut
town – the Land and Survey museum has several floors, house features an unusual
building, the General Post with sections on ethnography, bouncing platform that is used
Office, and the Atkinson Clock, a natural history, ceramics, for communal dances. There is
49-ft- (15-m-) tall timepiece history, and archaeology. The also an attractive botanical
built in 1905 and named for the ethnographic exhibits are garden. Talks on a range of
city’s first district officer. Despite among the highlights of the topics can be arranged for
the lack of historical landmarks, museum, and include examples visitors by prior request.
the city has charm, with friendly
people, bustling streets, and a
good range of accommodations,
restaurants, and bars. The city
center is small and easy to
explore on foot. The city’s main
attractions include the lively
seafront tamus, or markets, such
as the Filipino Market, as well as
the Sabah Museum, and the
State Mosque. The larger City
Mosque, often referred to as the
Floating Mosque, was built in
2000 beside Likas Bay. Also
overlooking the bay is the
magnificent 31-story glass The majestic façade of the Sabah State Mosque
SABAH 185
U Sabah State Mosque

Jalan Sembutan. @ Open 8–11am &
2–4:30pm Mon–Thu, 8–10:30am &
2:30–4:30pm Fri, 8–11am & 2–4pm
Sat & Sun.
Located close to the museum,
southwest of the city center, this
mosque is a striking example
of contemporary Islamic
architecture. Though set away
from the bustle of the city
center, its golden dome is visible
from many parts of town. The
mosque, built in the late 1970s,
is one of the largest in Malaysia.
It has a capacity of over Visitors arriving on Pulau Sapi in the Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park
5,000 worshipers, and has a
separate section for women to 2 Tunku Abdul nature trail. The three other
pray. While non-Muslims are Rahman National islands are clustered together
permitted to go inside (except a little farther south. Pulau
during prayer times), they should Park Manukan, where the park
dress appropriately, remove 2 miles (3 km) W of Kota Kinabalu. headquarters is located, is the
their shoes before entering, and g n Sabah Parks Office, Block K, most popular of the five islands,
avoid visiting on Fridays. Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu; especially for day trips. This
(088) 523-500. & 8 0 on Pulau crescent-shaped island’s facilities
Manukan. ® on Manukan. include a resort and restaurant.
 camping allowed on all islands
Among the many activities on
except Manukan and Sulug. offer are snorkeling, glass-
A short boat ride away from Kota bottomed boat rides, sea
Kinabalu, Tunku Abdul Rahman kayaking, and parasailing. Scuba
National Park is made up of five gear and underwater scooters
beautiful islands that cover an can be hired on the island.
area of 19 sq miles (50 sq km). Pulau Manukan has particularly
Named for the country’s first good beaches on its eastern
prime minister, the park was shore, but the large number of
established in 1974 to protect visitors and constant movement
the fragile coral reefs around of boats sometimes cause the
Pulau Gaya, Pulau Sapi, Pulau reefs to become murky.
Bright exterior of the popular Manukan, Pulau Mamutik, and The Coral Flyer, the world’s
Filipino Market Pulau Sulug. Several varieties of longest zipline, connects Pulau
marine life thrive in these reefs, Sapi and Pulau Gaya. It’s an
( Filipino Market including parrotfish, clownfish, experience for the brave only –
Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. @ batfish, and lionfish. Wildlife on speeds reach up to 37 miles
Open 7am–7pm daily. Central the islands include long-tailed (60 km) per hour to cross
Market Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens. macaques, bearded pigs, between the two islands. Buy
Several bustling markets line pangolins, and pied hornbills. your ticket at Pulau Sapi Jetty.
the city’s waterfront, the most Pulau Gaya is the biggest of
interesting of which is the Filipino the five islands. Covered in dense
Market, also known as the forest, it has about 12 miles
Handicrafts Market, named for (20 km) of trails and dazzling
the Filipino immigrants who run white-sand beaches such as
most of the stalls. A huge variety Police Beach on the northeast
of souvenirs, shells, baskets, and coast. Although much of the
bags are available, though these coral around Pulau Gaya has
are not exclusively from the been destroyed by dynamite
Philippines. The market is also a fishing, the other islands have
good place to buy cultured pearls reefs teeming with marine life.
and traditional medicines. Visitors Just off the southwest tip of
should beware of pickpockets Pulau Gaya, and linked to it by a
and fake pearls. Farther north is sandbar at low tide, Pulau Sapi
the Central Market, where is tiny in comparison but has
snacks such as grilled chicken some lovely waters that are
and the local favorite murtabak, ideal for swimming and Staff waiting to assist people arriving at
a stuffed spicy pancake, are sold. snorkeling, as well as a short speed on the Coral Flyer zipline
3 Tambunan
Rafflesia Forest
Reserve
37 miles (60 km) E of Kota Kinabalu.
@ n (088) 899 589. Open 8am–
3pm daily. 8
Located near the top of the

5,410 ft- (1,649 m-) high
Sinsuron Pass in the Crocker
Mountain Range, the Tambunan
Rafflesia Forest Reserve was
set up to protect the unique
rafflesia flower. The botanical
name of the commonest
rafflesia, Rafflesia arnoldi, is
derived from Sir Stamford
Raffles, founder of Singapore, Proboscis monkeys, named for their long, drooping noses
and naturalist Dr. Joseph
Arnold, who discovered it in 4 Klias Wetlands parts of Borneo. Most tour firms
Sumatra in 1818. A 15-lb (7-kg) 62 miles (100 km) SW of Kota
in Kota Kinabalu offer boat trips
specimen was immediately sent Kinabalu. @ to Kota Klias jetty. to the wetlands. Independent
back to the Royal Society in g tour boats from Kota Klias jetty. travel is possible, but joining a
London. This parasitic plant is 8 from Kota Kinabalu. tour group is a better option.
pollinated by carrion flies and
emits a smell of rotting flesh to Located on a peninsula about
attract them. Its natural habitat 75 miles (120 km) south of Kota 5 Pulau Labuan
is moist, shaded areas. The Kinabalu, the Klias Wetlands, a 5 miles (8 km) W of the Klias Peninsula.
flower takes about nine months mangrove forest interspersed * 86,000. ~ g n (087) 423-445.
to bloom into the world’s largest with countless channels of the
flower, with brick-red petals and Sungai Klias, are a major eco- Located off the southwest coast
white dots. The display is short- tourism destination. Wildlife of Sabah, Pulau Labuan is a
lived as the petals begin to wilt here is rich and diverse: visitors small island with a significant
within a few days. might spot several species of history. In 1846, the Sultan of
As the blooming season is monkey, such as the silver-leaf Brunei ceded the island to the
unpredictable and the rafflesia and long-tailed macaque, an British who were particularly
flowers only for a few days in a amazing variety of birds, and keen to mine the island’s large
year, visitors are advised to swarms of fireflies that illuminate coal deposits to provide fuel for
check in advance by calling the the riverside trees in the even- passing steamships. The island
information center. The reserve ings. As dusk falls, crocodiles remained a British territory for
has comprehensive information gather at the water’s edge to almost 100 years, until it was
on the rafflesia and its habitat. hunt. The real highlight of the overrun by the Japanese at the
Guides are available at the wetlands, however, is the chance beginning of their occupation
information center, but are to see the unique proboscis of Borneo during World War II.
mostly not necessary, since the monkey, a species native to A few years later the Japanese
paths are well marked and staff Borneo. They are timid but can surrendered here at the end
can give directions. be seen feeding on tender of the war. In 1963, Pulau
leaves near the edge Labuan joined the Federation
of the water. The of Malaysia. Today, the island
monkeys are named is a pleasant place, with nice
for their long, droop- beaches and popular as a
ing noses that are duty-free shopping haven.
particularly promi- Labuan Town is the main
nent in males, often settlement on the island.
twice as large as the Just north of Labuan is the
females. The males An-Nur Jamek Mosque, a
also have a bulbous distinctive, futuristic structure.
belly. These distinc- The Peace Park at Layang
tive features have Layangan, 2 miles (4 km)
earned the monkey north of town, contains a war
the nickname orang memorial which marks the site
belanda, meaning of the Japanese surrender.
Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower Dutchman, in some An Allied war cemetery on
SABAH 187
the east coast has nearly 4,000 6 Padas River

graves of Allied soldiers who
Pangi, near Tenom. @ to Beaufort
lost their lives in Borneo.
from Kota Kinabalu, then by train.
The island’s waters are 8 from Kota Kinabalu.
particularly popular among
divers, especially for wreck The Padas River weaves through
diving. Several World War II and the southwest region of Sabah,
other shipwrecks lie in the linking the small, quiet towns of
waters off Labuan’s coast. Dive Tenom and Beaufort. Known to
operators organize visits to be a turbulent river, it has
these interesting sites. The flooded Beaufort several times.
Labuan Marine Park is centered As a result, shophouses in the White-water rafting down the turbulent
around Pulau Kuraman, a small town are now built on stilts. Padas River
island near the south coast, Early photographs show
accessible by boats from the Beaufort resembling the canal 15 miles (23 km) of Grade II and
Labuan jetty. A number of city of Venice. The Padas River is III rapids. The access point for
activities such as diving, sailing, popular as a destination for rafting trips on the Padas River
fishing, and organized short great white-water rafting (see is at the town of Pangi, near
jungle walks are offered at the p315). The boulder-strewn river Tenom, which can be reached
park. It also has some beautiful cuts through lowland rainforest, by train from Beaufort. From
beaches, perfect for picnics and between April and July, the Pangi, challenging rapids, with
and sunbathing. water level of the river creates names such as Merry-Go-
Round, Washing Machine, and
Headhunter, tumble down-
stream. The river has several
gentle stretches as well, where
it is possible to hop out of the
raft and float downstream with
the current.
Rafting trips can be orga-
nized by tour companies in
Kota Kinabalu who brief visitors
well on safety procedures. As
well as rafting trips, there is
also the oppor tunity to take
a tour of the southwest
region of the state and ride
on Borneo’s only railway line
from Beaufort to Tenom,
tracing the Padas River and
Headstones of World War II soldiers at the Allied war cemetery in Labuan meandering through jungles.
The North Borneo Railway

When the British-run North Borneo Chartered Company began operating in the late 19th century, its
managing director, William Cowie, developed a plan for a trans-Borneo railway stretching from Brunei Bay
beside Pulau Labuan to Sandakan in the east of the province, cutting through steep ranges and uncharted
jungles. Construction began in 1896 and by 1905 a line had been built from Weston, on Brunei Bay, to
Beaufort in the southwest, and from there to both Jesselton, now known as Kota Kinabalu, and to Tenom,
east of Beaufort. From Tenom it was extended a
further 10 miles (16 km) to Melalap, where work
came to a halt and was never continued. Cost of
construction was high, and the rice tax levied on
locals to pay for it resulted in rebellions against the
British. The Chartered Company then ensured that
the train paid for itself by refusing to build roads
connecting Tenom, Beaufort, and Jesselton. Half-day
trips are available on the old steam train, but they
are quite expensive, although breakfast and lunch,
served in tiffin boxes, are included in the ticket
price. The train leaves Tanjung Aru at 10am every
Wednesday and Saturday. A less expensive option
is to take the standard train. Tourists enjoying the view while on a train trip
one. Local people from diverse Kampung Gombizau is one of

ethnic groups such as Chinese, several smaller villages in the
Indians, and Malay, come area that are taking part in the
together to sell their goods local government’s scheme of
while visitors soak up the One Village, One Product. The
atmosphere and enjoy a program encourages the
hearty breakfast at one of the communities to produce and
many stalls. Just about anything market unique handmade
one can imagine is on sale, from products and handicrafts made
livestock, fruit, vegetables, and from locally available material.
meat to hand-crafted knives, The villagers, most of whom are
musical instruments, bark part of the Rungus minority,
waistcoats, and local textiles. dedicate their time to the
Tempting snacks, delicious industry of beekeeping and the
Rope and timber bridge at the Mari Mari local cakes, and drinks are sale of raw honey and beeswax.
Cultural Village also on offer. Vendors are very Royal jelly, a bee secretion
friendly, and expect potential which is a good dietary
7 Mari Mari buyers to haggle for their supplement and an ingredient
Cultural Village goods. The weekly tamu is in several beauty products, is
busy from around 6am until also cultivated and sold here.
Inanam, 9 miles (15 km) east of
early afternoon. Visitors are shown around
Kota Kinabalu. Tel (013) 881-4921.
8 arranged in Kota Kinabalu
Tamu Besar, or the big the carefully tended beehives
or booked online.
market, is an annual festive and can see how the bees
∑ marimariculturalvillage.com event at Kota Belud which is are smoked out for the
celebrated amid cultural honeycombs to be removed.
A folk museum preserving festivities and handicraft
Borneo ethnic culture, Mari demonstrations. The highlight
Mari Cultural Village features of the market are the stalls of 0 Sumangkap
the dwellings and cultural horses for sale.
57 miles (92 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
traditions of five Sabah tribes. Traditionally dressed Bajau * 431. @ n (019) 535-9943. Open
On the tour you can see and horsemen, commonly called 8am–6pm daily. & 8 arranged in
experience the culture and Cowboys of the East, pose for the Kota Kinabalu. =
lifestyle of the rice-farming crowds. The Bajau with their
Kadazan-Dusun, the longhouse- resplendently dressed horses also A short drive from Gombizau is
building Rungus, the hunter- display their unrivaled horse- the village of Sumangkap,
fisherfolk the Lundayeh, the riding skills at the Tamu Besar. which resounds with the
cowboy and sea gypsy Bajau, beating of metal being made
and the headhunting tribe, the into gongs and can thus boast
Murut. The half-day tours 9 Gombizau Sabah’s highest decibel count.
include transport from hotels in One of the most important
and around Kota Kinabalu. * 140. @ n (013) 549-1885 (cell).
elements of Sabahan music, the
Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. & 8 gongs feature in all traditional
arranged in Kota Kinabalu. = celebrations. These gongs are
8 Kota Belud skilfully crafted by local artisans.
Located up the coast from Kota Set horizontally in frames or
* 73,000. @ ( Sun. _ Tamu
Belud on the Kudat Peninsula in suspended vertically, gongs
Besar (Oct/Nov). the north of the province, come in all sizes, from massive
Located on fertile alluvial plains,

Kota Belud is a quiet town
inhabited mainly by Bajau
people, famed for their skill
with horses. Gunung Kinabalu
dominates the landscape to
the east.
The town itself is small and
unassuming, except on Sunday
mornings when it springs to life
during the weekly tamu, or
market. Held at Jalan Hasbollah,
a short distance from the town
center, the tamu is the hub of
local trade and is as much a
social event as a commercial Striking a massive gong in Kampung Sumangkap
SABAH 189
ones that are 6 ft (2 m) in

diameter and meant for use in
temples, to tiny ones sold as
souvenirs. Visitors can watch the
gong-makers at work, as they
beat out the raised center of an
aluminum sheet to give the
instrument its particular
resonance and timbre.
q Bavanggazo
* 250. @ n (088) 614-088.
&8=
Symbolic globe at the Tip of Borneo marking the island’s northernmost point
The Rungus people, who
live in the region around Kudat, w Kudat shophouses and a bright
have managed to maintain 118 miles (190 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
Chinese temple. About 4 miles
more of their traditions and * 75,000. ~ @ Ekspress minibus (7 km) north of town, the
culture than many other service from Kota Kinabalu. ( Sun. beach at Bak Bak is a popular
indigenous groups. A visit to a _ Pesta Kelapa. picnic spot.
longhouse in the village of
Bavanggazo, just off the road A small port sitting at the
from Kota Belud to Kudat, is an northern tip of Sabah, Kudat is e Tip of Borneo
excellent opportunity to inhabitated by a large number 124 miles (200 km) N of Kota Kinabalu.
appreciate Rungus heritage. of Chinese and Filipino traders. @ Ekspress minibus service from
The longhouses are aligned in Sheltered by the Marudu Bay, Kota Kinabalu. 8 -
an auspicious east–west the Kudat Peninsula was
direction, with outward-sloping deemed suitable enough to be The northernmost tip of
walls to allow for maximum selected as the administrative Borneo, known locally as
ventilation. One such longhouse capital of British North Borneo Tanjung Simpang Mangayau,
is Matunggung, which features in 1882. However, the town’s era which means battle junction,
traditional bamboo-slatted sides of importance was short-lived, makes an excellent day trip
and a thatched roof, and as frequent pirate attacks and a from Kota Kinabalu. Located
contains the living quarters of lack of fresh water forced the in the Kudat district, the tip
approximately 100 families. provincial capital to be shifted can be reached after stopping
The Rungus are famed for in 1883 to Sandakan (see p196). off at the Gombizau bee
their beadwork, and visitors to There are not many sights in farm, at the gong village of
the longhouse can usually see town, although a stroll around Sumangkap, and along the
women sitting on the the harbor, watching fishing way at the Rungus longhouse
communal veranda crafting boats come and go, can be at Bavanggazo.
shoulder bands, necklaces, and refreshing. A walk along the A few miles before Kudat, a
bracelets from multicolored Sidek Esplanade around the branch of the road forks to the
beads, using motifs from bay is also rejuvenating. Kudat’s left, passing under towering
Rungus folklore. The older main street, Jalan Lo Thien coconut palms and leading
Rungus women wear brass Chock, has some attractive directly to a lovely windswept
coils as jewelry. They are also promontory that looks out over
skilled textile weavers, and use the South China Sea to the west
locally grown, hand-spun and the Sulu Sea to the east.
cotton on simple looms for Just before the headland, the
their clothes. road passes behind a sandy
Organized tours, which can crescent shaded by casuarinas
be booked in Kota Kinabalu, to Kalampunian Beach, where
include a visit to the villlages of the Irranun people sell colorful
Gombizau and Sumangkap as shells. At the Tip of Borneo
well as lunch at Bavanggazo. itself, a flagpole stands beside
These tasty meals are made a giant globe of the world.
with fresh vegetables from the An inscription on the globe
adjoining fields. Visitors have the recounts that Ferdinand
option of staying overnight to Magellan spent 42 days here
attend a cultural performance repairing his ship during his
of traditionally dressed dancers Rock pools at Bak Bak Beach, north circumnavigation of the world
and gong players. of Kudat between 1519 and 1522.
r Kinabalu National Park

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the 754-sq km (291-sq mile)
national park protects the environment around Gunung
Kinabalu. Popular for its trails and wildlife, the park is home
to 4,500 species of plants, including 1,500 varieties of orchids
and nine types of pitcher plants. Also found here are large
mammals such as orangutans, gibbons, and clouded leopards, Area of map
Illustrated
unusual birds such as the Kinabalu friendly warbler and the •
Kiau Lohan
Bornean mountain whistler, and a dazzling variety of butterflies Kundasang
•
•
and insects. At its southeast corner lies Poring Hot Springs, the
ideal place to relax after the rigors of the park’s trails.
Low’s Peak
13,455 ft
Laban Rata Rest House
. Gunung Kinabalu
At a towering 13,455 ft (4,101 m), Layang Layang
the mountain offers unrivaled views
from its summit. A reasonable degree
of fitness is essential for attempting
the climb (see pp192–3).
Power Station
Kiau
Timpohon Park
Gate Headquarters
Kinabalu Botanical Garden
The botanical garden behind
the Park Headquarters
features many varieties of Bundu Kundasang
plants from the mountain’s Tuhan
middle ranges. All species
are labeled, making a stroll
around the grounds both
KEY
informative and enjoyable.
1 The Bukit Tupai Trail, an easy
30-minute walk, leads up to a
ridgetop with excellent views of
Kinabalu’s summit.
. Silau Silau Trail
This 50-minute walk 2 The alternative route to the
along the length of summit of Gunung Kinabalu
the Silau Silau begins 11 miles (17 km) east of Park
stream, from its Headquarters at Mesilau.
source to its 3 The canopy walkway is only
confluence with 490 ft (150 m) long, but it gives a
Sungai Liwagu, splendid bird’s-eye view of the
is excellent for surrounding forest.
bird-watching.
K I N A B A LU N AT I O N A L PA R K 191
. Poring Hot Springs VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Fed by mineral waters,
these springs have been Practical Information
developed into public 37 miles (60 km) NE of Kota Kinabalu.
and private baths. The site n Kota Kinabalu Resorts, 15 First
also features a short but Floor, Wisma Sabah (088) 243–629.
exciting canopy walkway, &0®∑ sabahparks.gov.my
an orchid farm, and a Kinabalu Botanical Garden:
butterfly farm. Open daily. 8 9am, noon, 3pm.
Transport
@
Exploring the Park Key

From the two main gates, at Mesilau and Timpohon, trails around Major road
the park along its ridgetops and streams pass through delightful Minor road
terrain where quiet and observant walkers may see some of
Summit Trail
the region’s mammals, such as bearded pigs and
mouse deer. To make the climb up Gunung Mesilau Trail
Kinabalu you need to book well in advance Liwagu Trail
(passes are limited) and you must also be Bukit Tupai Trail
accompanied by a guide (see pp192–3). Mempening Trail
Silau Silau Trail
Via Ferrata Trail
Park boundary
Peak
Poring Hot Springs
Mesilau
Gate
Lohan
0 km 3
0 miles 3
Flora and Fauna

One of the richest areas in species diversity, the
park’s attractions include such mammals as tarsiers,
squirrels, and tree shrews, birds such as hornbills,
partridges, and mountain blackbirds, as well as a
long list of colorful butterflies and beetles. The park
is also home to several varieties of rare and exotic
flora, including the extraordinary rafflesia (see p186).
Tarsiers are easily

recognized by their long
feet and large eyes. They
are nocturnal primates
that feed on insects,
birds, and snakes.
Pitcher plants, which are one of

the prime attractions of Kinabalu Slipper orchids are named for
National Park, are carnivorous their bright slipper-shaped pouches
plants that attract and trap insects that attract pollinating insects. These
with their bright pigments and delicate plants are fast becoming
sweet nectar. an uncommon sight.

Climbing Gunung Kinabalu

The climb to the summit of Gunung Kinabalu begins at the
Timpohon Gate, just above Park Headquarters. There is an
alternative route, longer but less steep, which starts at
Mesilau Nature Resort, 11 miles (17 km) to the east. The two
trails meet at Layang Layang and continue to the Laban Rata
Rest House, where most climbers break for the night. Some,
however, travel another hour to the more basic rest house at
Sayat Sayat, which has the benefit of a shorter clamber to the
summit the next morning. The last, and toughest, part of the
hike begins well before dawn to allow climbers to view the
sunrise from Low’s Peak. The descent takes five hours, so it is The mighty Gunung Kinabalu rising above
the clouds
best to start back by noon to reach the base before dark.
Low’s Peak
13,455 ft
St. John’s Peak

13,438 ft
South Peak
12,900 ft
The Summit Trail

From Timpohon Gate
to the summit at Low’s
Peak, this trail takes Villosa
at least two days to Shelter
traverse. Handrails
along the trickier
stretches assist
climbers. Mempening
Rhododendron Forests Kamborangoh Shelter
Telekoms Station
Found between 5,900 ft (1,800 m)
and 8,530 ft (2,600 m), these
forests comprise 26 varieties of Ubah Shelter
rhododendron, including the
beautiful copper-leaved Power Station
rhododendron.
Kandis Shelter
KEY Timpohon
Gate
1 Tropical Montane Rainforests,
typically composed of oak, birch, and
pine, as well as fern and moss, are
found between 2,953 ft (900 m) and
5,900 ft (1,800 m), including the area
around Park Headquarters. Park
2 Layang Layang, at 8,599 ft Headquarters
(2,621 m), has a staff base and is The jumping-off
the first rest stop for most climbers. point for walks
along trails, Park
3 South Peak, as its name
suggests, is the southernmost of
Headquarters has
Kinabalu’s peaks. A near-perfect
accommodations,
pinnacle, it provides lofty views of
restaurants, and a
the surrounding area.
shop selling
provisions for
climbers.
K I N A B A LU N AT I O N A L PA R K 193
Low’s Peak
The highest peak of
Gunung Kinabalu, Low’s
Peak is named for Sir
Hugh Low, a naturalist
and British Colonial
Secretary on Pulau
Labuan. Ironically, he
never stood on its
summit despite three
attempts during the
Summit Peaks of Kinabalu 1850s. On his second
St. John’s Peak, Donkey’s Ears, and the Ugly attempt, in 1858, he was Sir Hugh Low
Sisters are just a few of the peaks that soar accompanied by Spenser
near the summit of Gunung Kinabalu. St. John, the British Consul in Brunei, who made it to
the top of South Peak only to see other peaks around
it that stood still higher. It was not until 1888 that John
Whitehead, a zoologist, conquered the highest peak
while collecting new species of birds and mammals,
Ugly Sisters some of which are also named for Sir Hugh Low.
13,228 ft
Donkey’s Ears
13,300 ft
Sayat Sayat
Rest House
Gunting Lagadan Hut
Situated just above Laban
Rata, this simple rest
house can sleep up to
Laban Rata
Rest House 60 people in dormitories.
Lemaing Hut It also has sweeping views
Pendant Hut
of the mountain’s upper
Paka Cave reaches, with Donkey’s
Shelter/Helipad
Ears as a backdrop.
Climbing the Summit Trail

You must book at least 6 months in advance. The park
Tkalod allows only 192 climbers plus their guides to climb per
Shelter
Chempaka day, due to conservation issues and limited overnight
Shelter
Mesilau Gate
accommodations, which are always fully booked. The
climb is more fun when traveling light, but a few items
Nepenthes Mesilau are essential, including a hat, sun block, sunglasses,
Shelter
and a flashlight. Warm, waterproof clothing is a must.
Sleeping bags are provided free of charge at Laban
Rata and Sayat Sayat rest houses, and the shop at
Park Headquarters sells basic food.
0 km 1
0 miles 1
Key
Summit Trail
Mesilau Trail
Via Ferrata Trail
Mesilau Trail
Peak Located 11 miles (17 km) east of Park Headquarters, Mesilau provides a
quieter base for the climb. The trail from here is longer, quieter, and
offers a particularly good display of several species of pitcher plants.
Dive boats off the island of Pulau Sipadan in Sabah

t Sandakan slice of colonial memorabilia,

250 miles (400 km) E of Kota Kinabalu.
the English Tea House is a
* 12,500. ~ @ n (089) 229-751. refreshing stop for tired visitors.
For many, the most moving sight
Lying on the northern edge of in town is the Sandakan Memorial
Sandakan Bay, Sandakan is Park, about 7 miles (12 km) east
sandwiched between a steep of the town center. In 1944, over
escarpment and the Sulu Sea. 2,000 Allied British and Australian
During the late 18th century, prisoners of the Japanese POW
exports of timber, pearls, birds’ camp were marched to Ranau
nests, and hornbill ivory made near Gunung Kinabalu. Only six
Sandakan a wealthy town. It Australians survived. The small
became the administrative museum in the park, built by
capital of North Borneo the Australian government, is a
between 1884 and 1942, but grim reminder of the tragedy.
was bombed out of existence
by the end of World War II, like P Agnes Keith’s House Orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan
Kota Kinabalu. Much of the Jalan Istana. Open 9am–5pm daily. & Rehabilitation Center
modern town is built on P Sandakan Memorial Park
reclaimed land, but its indis- 7 miles (12 km) E of Sandakan. habitat. At the entrance is the
criminate architecture of con- Tel (089) 275-400. Open daily. 8 Nature Education Center which
crete grids lacks the sense of provides an insightful
space of Kota Kinabalu. These introduction to all that goes on
days, trade is focused on palm y Sepilok behind the scenes, and also
oil and cocoa crops. Orangutan periodically screens a short,
There is little to interest somewhat dated video on
visitors in the center of town, Rehabilitation orangutans. A short walk from
though the waterfront is lively Center here are two feeding stations
with the constant movement of 14 miles (23 km) E of Sandakan. where the animals are fed at
barges and ferries, and a daily Tel (089) 531-180. @ Open 9am– 10am and 3pm.
fish market which is the biggest noon (11am Fri) & 2–4pm daily. Next door to the center is the
in Sabah. On the escarpment & - ®  Sun Bear Conservation Sun Bear Conservation Center,
behind the town center is an Center: Open 9am–3:30pm daily. & dedicated to help protect the
Observation Pavilion that offers world’s smallest bear. There are
a spectacular view across the One of only four orangutan usually some 30–40 rescue bears
town and the harbor front. sanctuaries in the world, Sepilok that can be visited.
Overlooking the pavilion is a was established in 1964 and is
well-preserved colonial building today one of Sabah’s most
u Turtle Island
known as Agnes Keith’s House. popular attractions. Occupying
An American author who lived 17 sq miles (43 sq km) of lowland National Park
here in the 1930s, Agnes Keith rain forest, the center was set up 25 miles (40 km) N of Sandakan.
wrote several books on Sabah to care for orphaned and injured g from Sandakan. n Crystal
and its culture. The house has animals, and teach them the Quest, Sabah Park Jetty, Jalan Buli Sim-
ornate furnishings and wooden skills needed to survive inde- Sim, Sandakan, (089) 212-711. & 8
flooring, and the author’s pendently. The center aims to 0 ® on Pulau Selingan. 
study still exudes an aura of eventually reintroduce the ∑ sabahparks.org.my
tranquility. Next door, another orangutans into their natural
The three small islands of
Selingan, Bakungan Kecil, and
Gulisan constitute this turtle
sanctuary, commonly known as
the Pulau Penyu National Park,
where green and hawksbill
turtles come ashore to nest.
The most rewarding time to
visit the National Park is
between July and October
when visitors are most likely to
see the turtles lay their eggs in
the sand. As this often takes
place in the evenings, one of
the islands offers tourist
accommodations. Vigilant
The impressive Agnes Keith’s House, home of the American writer rangers transfer the hatchlings
SABAH 197
to nurseries, from where they forests, provide the largest p Gomantong

are regularly released into the corridor for wildlife in the Caves
sea. Sadly, the chance of survival country. A unique feature of
for each hatchling is only about the river are the oxbow 68 miles (110 km) S of Sandakan.
@ from Sandakan. n (089) 230-189.
one in 100 eggs, as they often lakes set back from the main
Open 8am–noon & 2–4:30pm daily.
fall prey to poachers as well as course, creating abundant
&8-®
natural predators. habitats for the diverse flora
Permissions to visit the islands and fauna. Much of this area The limestone caves of
must be obtained from Crystal has been designated as the Gomantong are the largest
Quest, who act as agents for Kinabatangan Wildlife caves in Sabah and home to a
Sabah Parks; local tour operators Sanctuary. It is easily visited on remarkable population of
may be able to arrange this for a day trip from Sandakan. swiftlets and bats. Licensed
you, or there is an office at the A river boat trip provides locals clamber up bamboo
Sabah Parks Jetty, the departure excellent opportunities for poles to harvest swiftlet nests,
point from Sandakan. wildlife spotting. Sungai which are the prime ingredient
Menungal, a small tributary for bird’s-nest soup, a delicacy in
that joins the Kinabatangan Chinese cuisine.
i Pulau Lankayan just above Sukau, is a The two main caves are
particularly successful spot for Simud Hitam, or black cave,
50 miles (80 km) N of Sandakan.
g from Sandakan. n Pulau Sipadan
sightings. Proboscis monkeys, and Simud Putih, or white
Resorts, 484 Bandar Sabindo, Tawau;
a species common in Borneo, cave, both of which are difficult
(089) 765-200. 8 0 ®  and macaques that feed high to get to. However, visitors can
∑ lankayan-island.com up in the trees, are among the venture into Simud Hitam
highlights. Visitors are almost aided by a boardwalk to avoid
Just a 90-minute boat ride from certain to see a wide range of wading through ankle-deep
Sandakan, Lankayan is a reptiles such as crocodiles, and bat guano which collects on
teardrop-shaped island, birds such as the hornbill, the cave floor. Most tours of the
surrounded by dazzling white oriental darter, and the blue- caves include a trip down
beaches and stunning coral eared kingfisher. Sungai Kinabatangan.
reefs. It is visited mostly by
divers for its colorful world of
marine life, and, with only one
resort, the place is rarely
crowded. Some of the species
that divers might spot around
the Lankayan shipwreck, one of
the many dive sites near the
island, are glassfish, painted
frogfish, and marble stingrays.
Gazing into the waters from the
jetty, visitors can often see
black-tip sharks, especially in the
months of April and May.
Lankayan is a part of the Sugud
Islands Marine Conservation
Area, and its lush tropical vege-
tation is also worth a mention.
The island is covered with
screwpine (Pandanus
amaryllifolins), which has a
bloom resembling a pineapple.
o Kinabatangan
Wildlife Sanctuary
84 miles (135 km) S of Sandakan.
@ from Sandakan. g along
Sungai Kinabatangan. & 8 ® in
Sukau. 
Sungai Kinabatangan is
Sabah’s longest river at 348
miles (560 km) and its lower
reaches, bordered by dense The entrance into Simud Hitam at Gomantong Caves
a Tabin Wildlife Bornean gibbons can be

Reserve spotted often rustling about in
treetops by the lodge. A steep
137 miles (220 km) SE of Sandakan. 2-mile (3-km) climb leads to an
@ from Lahad Datu. n (088) 267-
ancient Kadazan Dusun burial
266. Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8
site, high up in a cliff-top cave.
organized by Tabin Wildlife Resort,
The site contains old coffins and
Tel (088) 261-558. ®
∑ tabinwildlife.com.my offers a spectacular view over
the Segama River Valley.
Established as a protected area
in 1984, the 473-sq mile (1,225-
sq km) Tabin Wildlife Reserve is d Semporna
one of the last remaining 209 miles (336 km) SE of Sandakan.
habitats of the critically * 150,000. @ _ Regatta (Mar/Apr).
endangered Sumatran
rhinoceros. Comprised mostly Wild bearded pigs rooting for food in With most of its houses
of secondary growth rain forest, the Danum Valley perched on wooden piles over
this is a conservation zone for the water, Semporna is a town
several other wildlife species as one of the most complex juxtaposed between land and
well, including endangered ecosystems, which is why it sea. This picturesque fishing
Borneo pygmy elephants, giant features high on most nature- town hovers over an ancient
flying squirrels, orangutans, and lovers’ itineraries on their visit coral reef that supports a
several bird species including to Sabah. diverse variety of fish, soft
hornbills. Activities organized by The surrounding logging corals, sponges, anemones,
the reserve in collaboration with concession, run by the Sabah echinoderms, and mollusks.
Tabin Wildlife Resort are exciting Foundation, which has now The inhabitants are mainly
ways to spot wildlife and been mostly reforested, acts as a the Bajau, a seafaring people
include jungle walks, night buffer zone for the fantastic who fish in the Celebes Sea to
safaris, and bird-watching trips. range of wildlife. Visitors are earn their living using deli-
The reserve offers visitors likely to spot elephants, barking cately carved, traditional boats
challenging walking trails, one deer, and slow loris on several called lipa lipa, which they
of which leads to a waterfall guided walks along nature trails. adorn with bright sails and
that plunges into a river which Among the birds that are visible colorful festoons.
is good for a swim. Another in this region are the great argus Sempora is frequented by
trail leads to a cluster of low, pheasant, the rhinoceros visitors who use it as a base for
mud volcanoes. hornbill, and the crimson diving and snorkeling trips to
sunbird. Most visitors stay at the the offshore islands of Mabul
Borneo Rainforest Lodge by and Sipadan (see pp200–201). Of
s Danum Valley Sungai Danum, where a the many island destinations
50 miles (80 km) W of Lahad Datu.
network of trails offers multiple that skirt the town of Semporna,
 from Lahad Datu. n (088) 881- options for exploring the area. the volcanic island of Pulau
092. 8 mandatory. ® The ideal time to observe Bohey Dulang, also the site of a
wildlife is early morning and Japanese pearl culture station, is
Covering an area of 168 sq miles evening, when even the most popular. The cliff-fringed Bohey
(438 sq km), Danum Valley is a cautious of animals, such as Dulang is frequented by
conservation area that consists bearded pigs, emerge to root adventure lovers who trek up its
of primary lowland rain forest, for food, while orangutans and highest peak for stunning views
Traditional stilt buildings in the harbor in Semporna

SABAH 199
dubbed “Sabah’s lost world” due

to its inaccessibility and diversity
of plant and animal life. This is a
trip for enthusiasts as facilities
offered to visitors are very basic.
h Tawau Hills State

Park
15 miles (24 km) N of Tawau.
 from Tawau. n (089) 925-719.
Open 7am–6pm daily. & ® 
A lush stretch of low hills

and thick mossy rain forest,
Ferry passengers disembarking at Tawau Tawau Hills State Park was
established here in 1979 to
of the surrounding islands. The Quoin Hill admits visitors to see protect the watershed of the
area around Semporna has the stages of processing cacao Tawau, Merotai, Kinabutan,
intrigued archaeologists since beans to chocolate. Palm oil is Mantri, and Balung rivers.
the discovery of stone tools at cultivated even more extensively Occupying an area of about
nearby Tingkayu, which pre- in Tawau, and plantations of its 104 sq miles (270 sq km), the
date similar implements found fan-like fronds are scattered park is a favorite among
in the region by 10,000 years. around the state of Sabah. birders. The blue-banded
Tawau faces Kalimantan kingfisher, wattled pheasant,
across the strait and has a high blue-headed pitta, and the
f Pulau Sipadan percentage of Indonesian and Bornean wren-babbler can be
Filipino residents. While there spotted here. Sightings of
See pp200–201. are some squalid areas, the monkeys are also common.
town center is a tidy blend The highest hill is the 4,268-ft-
of traditional wooden (1,300-m-) high Gunung
g Tawau shophouses and modern Magdalena. A lower peak,
223 miles (360 km) S of concrete blocks. The Bombalai Hill, just 1,739 ft (530 m)
Sandakan. * 178,000. ~ @ cheerful street markets high, is an extinct volcano that
( Tawau Central Market, offer a wide mix of goods can be reached following a half-
daily. _ Tawau Cultural such as herbs, vegetables, hour trail from the Park
Carnival (Mar). clothes, and toys sold by Headquarters. A 3-hour trek
∑ sabahtourism.com Cacao pod mobile traders. Tawau’s leads to some hot springs and
fish market is always busy, Table Waterfall, where the
Tawau sits on the coast in the and exotic seafood is available crystal-clear river makes for a
extreme southeast of Sabah. It at the open-air stalls seen all good swimming spot.
is a transport hub and a transit over town. This park is much less busy
point for visitors heading Tawau is the jumping-off than its more famous neighbors
toward Semporna and the point for trips to the Maliau and is a good alternative for
offshore islands of Sipadan Basin to the west, which is those looking for solitude.
(see pp200–201).
This bustling port began life
as a modest Bajau settlement,
but in 1878 the British North
Borneo Company, attracted by
the fine natural harbor and rich
volcanic soil found in the
region, settled in Tawau. They
shipped in elephants from
Burma to assist with logging in
the forest.
Timber has always been
the prime produce of this
town, although the rich soil
also sustains plantations of
rubber, coconut, cocoa, and
palm oil. In fact, Tawau is the
cocoa capital of Borneo, and
the cocoa estate at nearby Table Waterfall, Tawau Hills State Park
f Pulau Sipadan
Rated among the world’s top five dive sites,
Pulau Sipadan is a limestone spire rising about
1,970 ft (600 m) from the sea-bed. Fringed
with white and sandy beaches, the island is
surrounded by a stunning coral reef teeming
with over 3,000 species of marine life, including
colorful butterflyfish, angelfish, and bright
orange and electric-blue damselfish. Sightings
of sharks, barracudas, turtles, and manta rays
are also common in the waters around the reef.
. Turtle Cavern Semporna;
The eerie Turtle Cavern is an underwater cave Mabul &
stacked with the skeletal remains of green and Kapalai
hawksbill turtles that drifted into it and never islands
found their way out.
. The Drop Off

Just east of the
Sipadan jetty, the
Drop Off is a
seemingly endless wall
of rock covered with
several species of
corals and sponges.
Diving Trips
Several tour operators arrange day and night dives, but only 120 divers
are permitted to dive at the site each day. Qualified personnel
accompany visitors on each diving trip.
KEY
1 Lobster Lairs is a good place

for spotting lionfish, lobsters,
scorpionfish, and pipefish. This
shallow dive site is an ideal spot Key
for beginners.
Ferry route
2 Coral Garden, where almost
every species that inhabits these
waters can be viewed, is a joy for the
underwater photographer. Hanging Gardens
3 Mid Reef
The reef descends
gradually to a depth of
4 South Point, a site for 230 ft (70 m), where
experienced divers, is popular for terraces covered with
frequent sightings of hammerhead alcyonarian and gor-
sharks and turtles. gonian fan corals form
the Hanging Gardens.
SABAH 201
Barracuda Point VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The site is named for
the spectacular spirals Practical Information
of blacktail and 21 miles (35 km) S of Semporna.
chevron barracuda that 8 Borneo Sea Adventures:
come here to feed 8A Karamunsing Warehouse,
along a wall that Kota Kinabalu; (088) 230-000.
harbors turtles and ® Semporna; Mabul and Kapalai
parrotfish. islands. Best time for visiblility:
Apr–Aug, when stays must be
booked well in advance.
Transport
g from Semporna.
0 meters 300
0 yards 300
. White-Tip Avenue
A gap in the coral reef, White-Tip Avenue is frequented
by white-tip sharks and gray reef sharks. Divers may
encounter a school of bigeye trevallies and
bumphead parrotfish.
Turtle Patch
This site offers frequent sightings of
hammerhead and thresher sharks, triggerfish,
bumphead parrotfish, and the green and hawksbill
turtles that are commonly seen around Sipadan.
Staghorn Crest
This is a drop-off dive site with a fabulous
garden of giant staghorn corals teeming
with shoals of gobies, groupers, angelfish,
and triggerfish. Currents can be strong here
and divers need to be careful.

SINGAPORE
AREA BY AREA
Introducing Singapore 204–211

The Colonial Core and
Chinatown 212–229
Little India and Orchard Road 230–241
Farther Afield 242–251
Shopping in Singapore 252–257
Entertainment in
Singapore 258–261
Outdoor Activities in
Singapore 262–263
Singapore Street Finder 264–273
204 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA
INTRODUCING
SINGAPORE
The small city-state of Singapore is bustling, cosmopolitan, trendy, modern,
and plays a part on the world’s financial and political stage that seems
disproportionate to its size. Its varied traditions and intriguing mix of the
old and new (in its people and way of life) make Singapore a great
multicultural city in the truest sense.
Located at the tip of the Malay Peninsula by the People’s Action Party, led by the late
on the Strait of Malacca, Singapore consists statesman Lee Kuan Yew from its inception
of one large island encircled by several in the 1960s right up to the 1990s. Even
smaller islets. Gleaming high-rise buildings with the presence of an active opposition,
and a fascinating diversity of foliage are a one-party system has prevailed on the
crammed into a tiny area of just 269 sq m whole. While critics deem it autocratic, the
(697 sq km), some of it reclaimed land. party is seen as having been instrumental
Humidity and heavy downpours define its in helping Singapore become the super-
climate; showers are so sudden that the developed, modern nation that it is today.
umbrella is a must-have accessory. Singaporeans give particular credit to Lee
When Sir Stamford Raffles of the British Kuan Yew, who remains unrivaled in
East India Company landed on its shores popularity as a nation builder.
in 1819, Singapore was little more than a
nondescript fishing village. However, the The Economy
town soon went on to become a British Singapore has a highly successful and
stronghold. After gaining independence transparent economy. Despite accusations
from the British, Singapore was of the government having too many
incorporated into the Federation of stakes in the market, the economy is
Malaysia in 1963, and went on to become believed to be among the most powerful
a wholly independent nation in 1965. in the world, chiefly because of
government efficiency, the exceptional
Government and Politics infrastructure, minimal corruption, and a
Singapore is a democratic republic that skilled workforce. Singapore’s economy
follows the British parliamentary system, thrives on the electronics and chemical
with a government led by a prime minister. sectors, as well as business and financial
Political affairs have long been dominated services. Due to its strategic location
Towering skyscrapers dominate Singapore’s skyline

Neo-Classical civic buildings of Singapore with, south of the river, the financial district in the background
INTRODUCING SINGAPORE 205
of the 1960s, society has been

considerably harmonized, with
the government making every
effort to keep it so.
Culture and the Arts

The arts flourish in this diverse
city. Chinese opera and drama,
Western classical music, Indian
classical dance forms, and
English theater are all part of
local culture, and several theater
and dance ensembles keep
Ornately dressed performers of the Chinese opera Malay culture alive. However,
government censorship is rigid;
linking the mainland and the islands of each performance needs a seal of
Southeast Asia with the rest of the world, approval before being shown to the
Singapore has the busiest port in the public. A plethora of museums, festivals,
region. Canned food, biotechnology, and religious places complement the
rubber processing, and tourism have visual arts.
emerged as other key revenue- Food is an integral part of Singaporean
generating industries. culture, and eating out is considered the
best way of socializing. Although Chinese,
Peoples, Languages, and Religions Indian, and Malay flavors dominate,
Singapore is a country of immigrants, international cuisine ranging from African
with a multiracial ethnicity comprising to Eastern European is also widely
74.2 percent Chinese, 13.3 percent Malay, available. Being a food haven has added to
and 9.2 percent Indians, with a small the popularity of this gateway between
number of Western expatriates. Ethnic the East and the West, and it remains as
neighborhoods, the norm in the 19th alluring today as it was centuries ago.
century, have given way to government-
provided public housing. Old enclaves
that have been left behind are now used
only for shopping or entertainment
that is unique to that particular
community. The cultural heritage of the
British colonialists is also deeply woven
into the Singaporean lifestyle.
Malay, Mandarin Chinese, English,
and Tamil are all official languages in
Singapore. The unique “Singlish” – a
patois that combines English with Malay
and Chinese words and intonation –
is understood by most resident
Singaporeans but rarely by visitors.
Except for certain radical groups that
are banned, religion is freely practiced.
Mahayana Buddhism is the most
common, followed by Islam, Christianity,
and Hinduism. Since the racial riots Worshipers at Sri Mariamman Temple
SINGAPORE THROUGH
THE YEAR
Singapore’s multicultural heritage has Year and Hari Raya Puasa, are celebrated
resulted in a calendar studded with holidays with pomp and pageantry all over the
and vibrant festivals, both secular and island, others are quieter local market and
religious. Many of the religious festivals are temple affairs. Visitors are welcome in
based on the lunar calendar (see p321), so temples and mosques as long as customs
their dates vary annually. Check with the are respected. Other cultural events such
Singapore Tourism Board for exact timings. as the Singapore Arts Festival further add
While some festivities, such as Chinese New to the year’s festivities.
day. Monks chant prayers at

packed Buddhist temples and
caged birds are set free to
symbolize kindness. In the
evening, candlelit processions
set out from the temples.
Thian Hock Keng Temple (see
pp228–9) is a good place to
see celebrations.
Singapore International
Festival of Arts (May/Jun).
Organized by the National Arts
Council, this premier arts festival
has a captivating program of
Paying respect to elders on Hari Raya Puasa local, regional, and international
art, drama, dance, and music.
floats, and other multicultural Dragon Boat Festival and Boat
January to March performers travels down Race (Jun). This festival
Ponggal (Jan/Feb). A Tamil Orchard Road. commemorates the death of
(south Indian) harvest festival Qing Ming Festival (Mar/Apr). the 4th-century Chinese poet
celebrated at temples such as Chinese families visit temples Qu Yuan, who drowned himself
the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple and ancestral graves to clean in protest against political
(see pp236–7). Rice is cooked in and restore them. Red candles corruption. It is said that people
new pots and allowed to boil and joss sticks are lit and searched for him in boats,
over to symbolize prosperity. It offerings of rice, wine, and beating drums and throwing
is then offered to the gods as flowers are made. rice dumplings into the water to
thanksgiving. distract the fish from attacking
Thaipusam (Jan/Feb). A Hindu his body. Today, international
festival of penance in honor teams compete in dragon-
of Lord Murugan. Male shaped boats to honor this
devotees carry kavadis, or event. The colorful spectacle
steel arches, anchored to their takes place at Bedok Reservoir,
skin with hooks, in a long which is a 20-minute taxi ride
procession from the Sri Srinivasa from the city center.
Perumal Temple to the
Chettiar Temple (see p223).
Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). July to September
This vibrant Chinese festival is Great Singapore Sale (May/Jul).
a two-week celebration Shops throughout the island
culminating with Chap Goh Lion dance performance during the Chinese hold sales during this period –
Mei, marked by a final dinner New Year the discounts can be extremely
and prayers. Chinatown is enticing (see p253).
ablaze with lights and packed Singapore Food Festival (Jul).
with shoppers. April to June Demonstrations from top chefs
Chingay Parade (Jan/Feb). Part Vesak day (May/Jun). and special food markets draw
of the New Year festivities, a Buddhists commemorate the large crowds.
grand, lively parade of birth, enlightenment, and National Day (Aug 9).
stiltwalkers, lion dancers, death, of the Buddha on this Singapore’s Independence Day
is celebrated with a spectacular

show at the Padang. The
highlights include military
parades, an airforce flypast, and
cultural performances, with a
laser and fireworks display as a
final flourish.
Festival of the Hungry Ghosts
(Aug/Sep). The Chinese believe
that during the seventh lunar
month, souls of the dead return
to earth to feast. Joss sticks, red
candles, and paper money are
burnt, and lavish feasts and
dramatic Chinese street operas,
wayang (see p260), are held to
appease the spirits.
Mid-Autumn Festival (Aug/Sep).
The full moon on the 15th day
of the eighth month in the
Chinese calendar is celebrated Lantern competition at the Chinese Garden during Mid-Autumn Festival
with mooncakes and lanterns.
Traditionally a thanksgiving for a Sultan Mosque and Arab led by temple mediums with
bountiful harvest, the festival Street (see p234) come alive swords and whips. During
also commemorates a with festivities. this festival, many devotees
14th-century Chinese patriot Deepavali (Oct/Nov). The also make a pilgrimage to
who is said to have hidden Hindu festival of lights marks the temple of Tua Pek Kong
notes to his companions in Lord Krishna’s victory over on Kusu Island (Turtle Island).
mooncakes while trying to Narakasura – a triumph of good ZoukOut (Dec). Around
overthrow the Yuan Dynasty. over evil. Homes and temples 40,000 people party at this
Singapore Grand Prix (Sep). are decorated with oil lamps to annual outdoor dance music
Formula 1 cars race through the attract Lakshmi, the goddess of festival on Sentosa.
streets of Marina Bay in a prosperity, and Little India Christmas (25 Dec). From
spectacular night-time race on dazzles with lights and mid-November onwards,
an illuminated track. decorations. The precise date is Orchard Road is transformed
established each year according into a stunning stretch of
to the Indian almanacs. bright fairy lights and
October to December Thimithi Festival (Oct/Nov). A Christmas decorations.
Hari Raya Puasa (Sep–Oct). A festival procession begins at the Hari Raya Haji (variable). A
day of celebration for the Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple festival in honor of those
Muslim community to mark the and makes its way to the Sri Muslims who have made the
end of Ramadan, the Muslim Mariamman Temple (see p224) pilgrimage to Mecca. It is
holy month. Areas such as where devotees prove the marked by animal sacrifices
strength of their faith and prayers at mosques.
by walking barefoot
across a stretch of
burning hot coals. Public Holidays
Festival of the Nine
Local festivals follow the
Emperor Gods
lunar calendar, and the dates
(Oct/Nov). A nine-day are variable.
festival in honor of the
Nine Emperor Gods, New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
thought to bring good
Hari Raya Puasa (variable)
luck and longevity, is
celebrated at Kiu Ong Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb)
Yiah Temple on Upper Hari Raya Haji (variable)
Serangoon Road. Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Prayers, feasts, Labor Day (May 1)
and Chinese opera Vesak Day (May/Jun)
performances are
National Day (Aug 9)
followed by a
procession of the Deepavali (Oct/Nov)
nine gods seated on Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Offerings at the family altar during Deepavali elaborate chairs,
SINGAPORE AT A GLANCE
While most of Singapore’s attractions lie glitzy shopping malls, museums, and
at the heart of the city, south of the island, contemporary entertainment, a traditional
its compactness and efficient infrastructure Singapore survives beneath its glossy
make it easy to visit the outer reaches. exterior. At its core is a multicultural
The north, west, and east are studded heritage, revealed in the timeless elegance
with older suburbs, nature reserves, and of colonial architecture, Chinatown’s
historic sites. Despite being a model shophouses, and the uniquely juxtaposed
modern metropolis with skyscrapers, temples, mosques, and churches.
Singapore’s Top Ten Attractions
Raffles Hotel
See pp220–21 Orchard Road
See pp238–41
Chinatown
See pp224–9 Little India Singapore Botanic Gardens
See pp230–37 See pp246–7
Singapore Flyer Sentosa Chijmes

See p218 See pp250–51 See p218
Boat Quay Gardens by the Bay

See p227 See p217
The Supertree Grove in the Gardens by the Bay

The Singapore River

The Singapore River winds through the heart of the UOB Plaza’s
main city and has long been the hub of its life and entrance lobby is
embellished with
commerce. Flanked by the towering skyscrapers of the sculptures by Dali
financial district on the southern bank and the stately and Botero.
colonial buildings on the northern bank, the river is
lined with leafy walkways, shops, and eateries. River
cruises depart from several piers along the bank.
Cavenagh Bridge
Signs restricting horse-drawn
carriages still stand at the city’s
only suspension bridge.
The Fullerton Hotel’s

colonial façade domin-
ates the entrance to
the river. The present
building replaced Fort
Asian Civilizations
Fullerton in 1925.
Museum (see p216)
Merlion
This mythical
half-fish, half-lion
symbol of
Singapore
guards the river
as it opens into
Marina Bay.
Raffles’ Landing Site

A plaque below a polymarble
statue of Raffles marks the site of
his original landing in 1819.
Anderson Bridge Parliament Complex

This bridge was built in 1910 to Opened in 1999, the new Parliament House complements the
relieve the increasing traffic on Victorian style of the original parliament building (see p217),
Cavenagh Bridge. dating to 1827.
Boat Quay
Bars and restaurants
bring new life to the
restored row of old
trading houses lining the
southern bank of the
river (see p227).
Clarke Quay
Elgin Bridge Refurbished warehouses form a
The present bridge was built in 1929 colorful backdrop to this lively shopping
on the site of the first one across the and eating area (see p223).
river, and is named for Lord Elgin,
then Governor General of India. Swissotel Merchant
Court Hotel
Riverside Point
is a shopping
mall that leads
to Merchant
Square and
Central Mall.
River taxi kiosk
Read
Bridge
To
Robertson
Quay
Hill Street
Building
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
Coleman Bridge
This bridge was named for George D Coleman,
the architect who designed much of
Singapore’s urban landscape.
SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA 213
THE COLONIAL CORE

AND CHINATOWN
Sir Stamford Raffles’ city plan of 1822 lies the flourishing Central Business District,
designated the south of the river as the also known as the Golden Shoe due to its
commercial district, and reserved the north shoe-shaped district boundary. Adjoining
for administrative offices. This northern the business district lies Chinatown. As
area is known today as the Colonial Core. trading houses grew along the south bank
It is the heart of downtown Singapore and is in the 19th century, coolies and Chinese
dotted with historical landmarks. The Padang merchants settled in the area and Raffles
and Fort Canning Park are focal points of this officially allocated it to the community. It is
area and have witnessed major events in characterized by distinctive shophouses,
Singapore’s history. To the south of the river temples, and markets.
Sights at a Glance
Attractions Churches and Temples
9 Singapore Flyer 0 St. Andrew’s Cathedral
Historic Streets, Buildings, t Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
and Monuments i Armenian Church
p Chettiar Temple
1 Raffles’ Landing Site
d Sri Mariamman Temple
4 Victoria Theater and Concert Hall
h Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and
5 Old Parliament House See also Street Finder
Museum
7 Marina Bay Sands
x Thian Hock Keng Temple pp228–9 maps 4 & 5
w Raffles Hotel pp220–21
e Chijmes
a Clarke Quay
M
s Chinatown Heritage Center ID
ST
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Guardians and dragons depicted on the lacquered doors of the Thian Hock Keng Temple For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around
the Padang
The heart of Singapore’s colonial district is the Padang,
or square, which was once used by the 19th-century
colonials as a site for big sporting events as well as
National Day parades. Sporting activities from cricket
and field hockey to soccer and rugby still take place here
on a weekly basis. The square is flanked by grand Neo-
Classical buildings such as the former Supreme Court
6. National
and City Hall (now revamped as the National Gallery Gallery Singapore
Singapore), the Parliament House, and the exclusive The gallery occupies
Singapore Cricket Club. Also of interest here is Esplanade imposing former
Park, which lies on the eastern side of the Padang. One civic buildings.
of the oldest parks in Singapore, it is home to many
historical landmarks.
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4. Victoria Theater and Concert Hall
Built in 1862, the Victoria Theater was originally the Town
Hall. The Victoria Memorial Hall was added in 1905 to
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commemorate the death of Queen Victoria. Its name

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Asian Civilisations
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Raffles’
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Landing Site
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To the
Boat Quay
5 Old Parliament House

Constructed in 1827, this
building was originally
commissioned as a
private residence for a
Scottish merchant,
John Argyle Maxwell.
The Time Capsule

Located in front of Empress Place, a small
pyramid houses a time capsule prepared
in 1990 to mark the 25th anniversary of
Singapore’s independence.
T H E C O LO N I A L C O R E A N D C H I N ATO W N 215
The Padang
LIT TLE INDIA AND
This field has hosted cricket ORCHARD ROAD
since the 1830s. Today, sporting
events such as the Rugby
Sevens are held here.
THE COLONIAL
CORE AND
CHINATOWN
To St. Andrew’s Cathedral & Locator Map

Raffles City
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Lim Bo Seng Memorial

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tortured to death by
Japanese forces in 1944.
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To Merlion
Park
Singapore Cricket Club
Memorial Obelisk Built around 1884, the club is a distinctive,
squat building with dark green bamboo
shutters. This members-only club was
Cavenagh Bridge originally intended exclusively for expatriates.
To Raffles Place
was built by convicts and first water front, the huge, spiked
functioned as a courthouse. shells of the complex contain a
Today, this Neo-Classical plethora of performing arts
structure showcases a wealth venues, including a concert hall,
of exhibits in 11 themed gal- theater, outdoor theater, and
leries and four ACE (Asian recital studio, as well as gallery
Civilizations Education) Zones: space, a performing arts library,
South Asia, West Asia/Islam, and a shopping mall.
Southeast Asia, and China.
There is also a fascinating
Singapore River Interpretive 4 Victoria Theater
Gallery where the story of and Concert Hall
generations of immigrants who 9 Empress Place. Map 5 E2. Tel 6338-
settled and worked on the 8283 (theater); 6338-6124, 6339-6120
banks of the Singapore River is (concert hall). q Raffles Place, City
Statue of Sir Stamford Raffles at the told using old photographs. Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. Open check
original landing site website for opening times. 7 - =
∑ nach.gov.sg
1 Raffles’ Landing 3 Esplanade Park
Site Connaught Drive. Map 5 E3. q City
A splendid example of colonial
architecture, Victoria Theater
North Boat Quay. Map 5 D3. Hall. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 130,
131, 167, 196, 608. was built in 1862 by the British
q Raffles Place, City Hall. @ 7, 32,
to showcase amateur dramatic
51, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851.
Running along Connaught productions and Gilbert and
Drive from the underpass at Sullivan operettas. The Victoria
A statue of Sir Stamford Raffles Anderson Bridge to Stamford Memorial Hall was added in
gazing upon the flourishing Road, Esplanade Park was one 1905 to celebrate Queen
Central Business District, of the most popular outdoor Victoria’s jubilee. The Memorial
complete with a plinth, marks spots for both the European Hall was renamed Victoria
the spot where he first set foot and Asian communities during Concert Hall in 1980 when it
on Singapore soil, on the the colonial era. became home to the Singapore
morning of January 29, 1819 The park contains Queen Symphony Orchestra (see p260).
(see p210). The modern poly- Elizabeth Walk and several Over the years, the hall has
marble statue is a replica of the landmarks, including the been put to a variety of uses.
original bronze work cast by Cenotaph, which commemo- During World War II, it was con-
British sculptor-poet, Thomas rates those who lost their lives verted into a hospital. Its clock
Woolner, which was unveiled during the two World Wars; the tower was set to Tokyo time
on the Padang on June 27, Lim Bo Seng Memorial, which when Japan occupied the
1887. The original statue, which eulogizes the World War II hero island, and after the Japanese
narrowly escaped being melted who died in Japanese captivity; surrender, it was here that the
down during the Japanese and the Tan Kim Seng Fountain, war crimes tribunals were held.
invasion, now stands in front of which was built in honor of the The two buildings are the
the Victoria Concert Hall. philanthropist who set up venue for a range of concerts,
Singapore’s first freshwater performances, and multi-
supply. When Esplanade – cultural extravaganzas (see
2 Asian Theatres on the Bay was built, pp258–9). Tickets can be
Civilisations there was debate over the obtained at the box office or at
radical architecture of the new outlets in Singapore’s main
Museum building. Located on the shopping areas.
1 Empress Place. Map 5 D3.
Tel 6332-2982. q Raffles Place, City
Hall. @ 75, 540, 608. Open 10am–
7pm daily (to 9pm Fri). 7 0 =
∑ acm.org.sg
Home to over 1,600 artifacts

that trace the history of the
varied cultures and civilizations
of Asia, the Asian Civilisations
Museum is housed in the
restored Empress Place
Building. Named in honor of
Queen Victoria and completed
in 1867, the Palladian structure The massive riverside complex of Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay
access the Skypark with its

infinity pool set on top of the
world’s largest public
cantilevered platform. This tops
the complex and overhangs
the north tower.
8 Gardens by
the Bay
18 Marina Gardens Drive. Map 5 F3.
Tel 6420-6848. q Bayfront. @ 400.
Open 5am–2am daily. Conservatories
9am–9pm; last ticket sold 8pm, last
entry 8:30pm. Skyway 9am–9pm.
& for conservatories. 8 9am,
The Neo-Palladian façade of the Old Parliament House
11am, 2pm & 4pm daily.
∑ gardensbythebay.com.sg
5 Old Parliament 6 National Gallery
House Singapore Covering a vast area alongside
the waterfront, this award-
1 Old Parliament Lane. Map 5 D3. 1 Saint Andrew’s Road. Map 5 D2. Tel winning horticultural attraction
Tel 6332-6900. q City Hall, 6690-9400. q City Hall. @ 7, 32, 51, offers more than 250,000 rare
Raffles Place. @ 7, 32, 51, 81, 124, 81, 124, 145, 197, 603, 851. Open see plants in landscaped gardens
145, 197, 603, 851. Open 10am– website. & ∑ nationalgallery.sg
and conservatories. The
9pm Mon–Fri, 11am–9pm Sat.
outdoor gardens are divided
Box office opens 90 mins before
Right in the heart of the Civic into three spaces – Bay South,
Sun events. & only for tours.
8 11am & 3pm daily. 0 - = District, two striking buildings – Bay East, and Bay Central.
∑ theartshouse.com.sg the City Hall and the former Highlights include the Heritage
Supreme Court – have been Gardens, where plants are
Singapore’s oldest surviving refurbished and reborn as the linked to the main ethnic
government building, the largest visual arts space in groups in Singapore, and the
Old Parliament House was Singapore, dedicated to the Supertree Grove – 16-story-high
originally built as the residence display, promotion, research, vertical gardens that collect
of Scottish merchant John and study of Southeast Asian rainwater, generate solar power,
Argyle Maxwell in the late and Singapore art, while also and act as venting ducts for the
1820s. It was designed in hosting touring international conservatories. Suspended
Neo-Palladian style by G D art exhibitions. between two Supertrees is the
Coleman, an architect who was OCBC Skyway. This walkway
to shape much of Singapore’s offers visitors a bird’s-eye view
urban landscape. Maxwell
7 Marina Bay Sands of the gardens and the Marina
leased it to the government 10 Bayfront Avenue. Map 5 F3. Bay area. A dazzling sound and
for use as a courthouse. In the Tel 6688-8868. q Bayfront. @ 97, light show takes place nightly
1950s, it became the colonial 106, 133, 502, 518. 0 = amid the Supertrees.
government’s Assembly House, ∑ marinabaysands.com
and, in 1962, the Parliament
House of the independent It is impossible to miss
state. Outside the building the Marina Bay Sands, which
stands a handsome bronze dominates Marina Bay.
statue of an elephant, a gift Developed by the Las Vegas
from the Thai monarch, Rama Sands Corporation, the
V, after his 1871 visit to Singa- integrated resort includes a
pore – the first visit to a foreign 2,561-room hotel, a convention
nation by a Siamese king. center, the Shoppes at Marina
A new Parliament House was Bay Sands mall, and seven
built nearby in 1999. In 2004, celebrity-chef-run restaurants.
after careful restoration, the For entertainment, there are
old building was converted two large theaters, an ice
into The Arts House, an elegant skating rink, a casino, and two
arts and heritage space. The Crystal Pavilions. Floating on
center offers a range of contem- the water and four-stories high,
porary visual and performance the pavilions house nightclubs
arts, art house movies, and and shops full of designer The stunning Marina Bay Sands resort lit up
improvisational theater. brands. Hotel guests can also at night
q Raffles City fountains, and covered

Italianate walkways encircle
252 North Bridge Road. Map 3 D5, 5 shops that sell arts and crafts
E2. Tel 6433-2238. q City Hall. @ 7, from China, the Philippines,
36, 77, 97, 103, 124, 131, 147, 162, 166, Thailand, Malaysia, and India, as
174, 190, 501, 511, 603. Open well as restaurants that serve
10am–9:30pm daily. 0 - =
everything from sushi to tapas.
∑ rafflescity.com.sg
A flea market is held here most
This huge complex comprises Sundays. The most striking
a shopping mall, high-rise building in the complex is the
offices, and two hotels – the former chapel, designed in
Fairmont Singapore and Neo-Gothic style by the Jesuit
Swissôtel the Stamford, the priest Father Nain.
world’s tallest hotel when it
opened in 1985. Perched atop
the Stamford are lavish bars
and restaurants, including Jaan
The soaring silver blocks of the Raffles City on Level 69, which has
complex stunning panoramic views.
Popularly dubbed the Tin
9 Singapore Flyer Can for its metallic appearance,
Raffles City was designed by
30 Raffles Avenue. Map 5 F2. Tel 6738-
I M Pei, the architect famous for
3338. q Promenade. @ 106, 111,
133. Open 8:30am–10:30pm daily. &
the glass pyramid in front of
0 = ∑ singaporeflyer.com.sg the Louvre in Paris and Bank of
China skyscraper in Hong Kong.
One of Singapore’s most eye-
catching attractions is the world’s
second-tallest observation wheel, w Raffles Hotel
set on the edge of Marina Bay. See pp220–21.
As the wheel slowly turns, the
city views from pods that reach Singapore Art Museum, a former Catholic
541 ft (165 m) above ground e Chijmes boys’ school
level are amazing. The trip
30 Victoria Street. Map 3 D5, 5 E1.
takes about 30 minutes. r Singapore Art
Tel 6337-7810. q City Hall. @ 2, 7,
12, 33, 81, 107, 130, 133, 147, 190, 520, Museum
851, 960. Open 11am–3am daily. 0
0 St. Andrew’s - = ∑ chijmes.com.sg
71 Bras Basah Road. Map 3 D5, 5 D1.
Tel 6332-3222. q Bras Basah,
Cathedral Dhoby Gaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77,
Chijmes (pronounced
Coleman Street. Map 5 E2. Tel 6337- 97, 131, 167, 171, 518, 602, 603, 605,
“chimes”), an elegant walled
6104. q City Hall. @ 7, 32, 51, 81, 607, 700. Open 10am–7pm Mon–
complex of shops, bars, Sun, 10am–9pm Fri. & free for
124, 145, 197, 603, 851. # 10:30am–
2:30pm daily. 8 7 5 see website.
restaurants, and gallery children under 6 years; also after
= ∑ livingstreams.org.sg spaces, was once the 6pm Fri. 8 7 - =
Convent of the Holy Infant ∑ singaporeartmuseum.sg
Although an Anglican church, Jesus. Founded by a French
St. Andrew’s was named for Jesuit priest in 1854 and A bronze statue of two
the patron saint of Scotland run by nuns, the convent schoolboys with 17th-century
in recognition of the functioned as a school and saint John Baptiste de la Salle
Scottish merchants who a women’s refuge, as well stands above the porch of the
contributed funds to build as a home for abandoned Singapore Art Museum, a
it. The present cathedral babies. In 1983, it was reminder that until 1987 this
dates from 1862 and was redeveloped into a was St. Joseph’s Institution, a
designed in an Early shopping and Catholic boys’ school.
Gothic style reminiscent restaurant complex. Today, the building is a
of England’s Salis- Quiet courtyards, showcase for contemporary
bury Cathedral. cobbled paths, Asian art. Since the museum’s
opening, its permanent
collection has grown from under
2,000 works of art to over 7,000
pieces, making it one of the
world’s largest public collections
of modern and contemporary
Façade of the chapel of Chijmes, now an arts and dining venue Southeast Asian art. The core of
the museum’s art, which

includes sculptures, instal-
lations, and paintings, is richly
supplemented by a regular
roster of local and international
traveling exhibitions, featuring
20th-century art from American
and European compilations.
Works from the museum’s own
collection are loaned out to
international exhibitions.
Usually only a selection of
works are on display at any
given time. There are works by
artists such as Georgette Chen,
Liu Kang, Chen Chong Swee,
Lim Tze Peng, and Huang Yao
from Singapore, and those by
regional artists such as Wong
Hoy Cheong from Malaysia,
Affandi from Indonesia, and Bui
Xian Phai and Tran Trong Vu
from Vietnam.
The old Classical-style
building has been restored and
skillfully converted for use as a
museum. The former school
chapel is used as an auditorium.
While the chapel’s original
character has been retained, its Renaissance-style exterior of the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
central window has been
replaced by a modern stained- t Cathedral of the The cathedral served as an
glass work by Filipino artist Good Shepherd emergency hospital during the
Ramon Orlina. The building’s invasion of Singapore in World
two courtyards are used as Victoria Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. Tel War II, and was listed as a
6337-2036. q Bras Basah. @ 7, 14,
exhibition spaces, arranged on national monument in 1973.
16, 36, 77, 97, 131, 167, 171, 501, 700,
either side of the Glass Hall, Three interesting buildings
957, 960. Open daily from mid-2016;
which is a glass-enclosed stand within the church
phone ahead for hours and service
converted veranda decorated times 7 ∑ veritas.org.sg
compound. The Archbishop’s
with blown-glass installations House, a 19th-century double-
by American artist Dale Chihuly. Singapore’s oldest Catholic story bungalow with a pro-
The old classrooms are now place of worship, this cathe- jecting portico, casement
galleries. The Learning Gallery dral, built in the 1840s, reopens windows, and enclosed
showcases contemporary in 2016 following renovations. verandas, is a simple structure in
works by Singapore artists It was first administered by contrast to the cathedral. The
that have been especially French missionary Father Jean- Resident’s Quarters, a U-shaped
selected to engage Marie Beurel, who also single-story building with Doric
the imaginations of established the Convent columns, and the Priest’s House
young people. The of the Holy Infant Jesus are more ornate and decorated
stylish gift shop has and St. Joseph’s with elaborate plasterwork.
been voted one of the Institution. Designed by
best museum shops noted colonial architect
in the world. D L McSwiney in a
The Dome Café, Latin-cross pattern, the
ensconced in one of church combines a
the naves of the Renaissance-style
museum, serves excel- exterior with Doric
lent sandwiches, cakes, columns, Palladian
and coffee drinks. There is porches, and a
also the Trattoria Lafiandra, beautifully crafted
which serves Italian timber ceiling. The
cuisine. A trendy octagonal steeple
alfresco wine bar adds Sculpture, Singapore Art was a later addition Stained glass in the Cathedral of the
to the ambience. Museum by Charles Dyce. Good Shepherd
w Raffles Hotel
A legendary hotel and a national monument, Raffles,
which opened in 1887, is a tranquil haven of white,
veranda-enclosed, colonial-style buildings with
terracotta-tiled pitched roofs. It was once the venue
for grand colonial balls and dances, and its guest
list boasted such names as Noel Coward, Somerset
Maugham, Rudyard Kipling, Joseph Conrad, Charlie . Long Bar
Chaplin, and Michael Jackson. The cool, calm refuges The Singapore Sling, the pink drink
of its courtyards, gardens, and covered walkways can originally intended for women, was
still be enjoyed by residents and visitors alike. created in 1915 by Hainanese
bartender Ngiam Tong Boon.
.Ornamental Fountain
Made in Scotland in the early
1890s, the 20-ft- (6-m-) high
cast-iron fountain was
donated to the hotel in
1990 and now stands in the
Palm Garden.
.Lobby
The lobby, home
to the Writers Bar,
features photographs
of some of the writers
who have stayed
at Raffles.
Palm Court
This area is a beautifully restored
space lined with palm and
frangipani trees. Collectively, the
hotel’s gardens house over 50,000
plants representing about 80
different species.
Raffles Courtyard
A menu of Italian
dishes is served in this
immaculate alfresco
1 Beach Road. Map 5 E1.
dining space with its
Tel 6337-1886. 0 - =
tropical palms and ∑ raffles.com
native plants.
Transport
q City Hall. @ 56, 82, 100,
518.
. Tiffin Room
A north Indian curry
buffet is offered
for lunch and
dinner here,
punctuated by a
strictly English
afternoon tea.
KEY
1 Writers Bar
2 The Raffles Grill is one of
Singapore’s most prestigious
restaurants, serving fine French
cuisine. The French doors of the
Grill overlook the Palm Court.
The Ballroom
3 Tiffin Room
The hotel’s ballroom
is the epitome of 4 Bar and Billiard Room
formal elegance, 5 Raffles Gift Shop
with its high
ceilings, sparkling 6 Ah Teng’s Bakery
chandeliers, 7 Long Bar Steakhouse has a
and murals. formal dress code and serves
prime cuts of Australian and
American beef and seafood.
8 Jubilee Hall
9 The lawn’s tropical foliage
combined with a gazebo provides
the setting for garden receptions.
Neo-Classical façade of the Peranakan Museum
y National Museum second half of 2016. The revamp i Armenian Church

of Singapore aims to give museum-goers a
more comprehensive overview 60 Hill Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D2.
93 Stamford Road. Map 3 D5, 5 D1. Tel 6334-0141. q City Hall. @ 2, 12,
of Singapore’s history, and to
Tel 6332-3659. q Bras Basah, Dhoby 32, 33, 51, 103, 124, 147, 174, 190, 197,
celebrate multiple voices in the
Ghaut. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, 851. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 9am–
nation’s historical narrative.
166. Open 10am–6pm daily. & 8 noon Sat. Closed Sun.
11am, 2pm daily, also 3:30pm Sat &
The Armenian Church of
Sun. 0 = ∑ nationalmuseum.sg uPeranakan St. Gregory the Illuminator was
Housed in a Neo-Palladian Museum the first permanent place of
structure and crowned with a 39 Armenian Street. Map 3 D5, 5 D2. Christian worship in Singapore.
stunning stained-glass dome, Tel 6332-7591. q City Hall, Bras The church was built in 1835
the island’s oldest museum Basah. @ 7, 14, 16, 36, 77, 97, 131, and the spire was added later, in
opened in 1887. Known as the 166. Open 10am–7pm daily (to 9pm 1850. It was able to seat a
Raffles Museum and Library, it Fri). & 811am, 2pm. 0 = congregation of only 50 people,
was famed for its remarkable ∑ peranakanmuseum.sg a reflection of the minority
collections of natural history, status of the local Armenian
ethnology, and archaeology. The building in which this community then.
Following Singapore’s museum is housed was Designed by G D Coleman,
independence in 1965, the originally the Tao Nan School, the architect responsible for
museum was renamed the established in 1910 by three other landmarks of early
National Museum to reflect its Chinese philanthropists for the Singapore such as St. Andrew’s
new role and altered its focus to education of boys from the Cathedral (see p218), the church
exhibitions that concentrated Hokkien region of China. In 1997, is an elegant example of tropical
on the history and peoples of this Neo-Classical building was Neo-Classical architecture. The
Singapore. The museum has a opened as the first wing of the interior contains a photograph
permanent collection, which Asian Civilisations Museum. of the Armenian community
features displays on food, Following an overhaul, it from around 1917, as well as
fashion, and local history. There became a Peranakan-themed portraits of the patriarchs of the
are also various exhibitions on a museum representing a pan- Armenian Church. In the
range of subjects from Chinese Southeast Asia perspective of
secret societies to botany, Peranakan culture with a focus
however, the highlights of the on its main centers, which
museum are the 11 artifacts include Singapore, Melaka,
that have collectively been and Penang.
christened the “Treasures of the The museum explores the
National Museum.” history and ethnology of the
The museum has been culture of these regions and
undergoing a S$10 million also provides an interesting
facelift, initiated as part of glimpse into their heritage,
Singapore’s landmark 50th including language and
anniversary celebrations in religious customs. Exhibits
2015, and parts of it may remain include silver artifacts,
closed as a result until the porcelain, jewelry, and textiles. Interior of the Armenian Church
church’s compound is the grave p Chettiar Temple may enter. The Chettiar Temple
of Agnes Joaquim, who plays an important role in the
Crossing of Tank Road and River Valley
discovered an orchid hybrid in Road. Map 4 C2. Tel 6737- 9393. life of Hindu Shaivites as it is the
1893. The flower was later q Dhoby Ghaut. @ 14, 32, 54, 65, culmination point of a
named Vanda Miss Joaquim for 139, 195. Open 8am–noon, 5:30– spectacular procession that
her and adopted as Singapore’s 8:30pm daily. begins at Sri Srinivasa Perumal
national flower. Temple (see pp236–7) during the
Built in 1984, this Shaivite Hindu annual Thaipusam festival,
temple replaced a much older which occurs between January
o Fort Canning one, founded in 1860 by and February and honors Lord
Park wealthy Indian Chettiars Murugan (see p206).
51 Canning Rise, Singapore, 179872. (moneylenders). Dedicated to
Map 2 C5, 4 C2. Tel 6332-1200. Lord Murugan (also known as
q Dhoby Ghaut. @ 14, 32, 54, 77, Subramaniam), the colorful
124, 139, 195. Open 6am–9pm daily. temple is believed to be one
of the wealthiest and grandest
Once the seat of Temasek, in Singapore.
a 14th-century Malay Craftsmen from southern
kingdom, Fort Canning Park India were specially brought in
is now a verdant, tranquil to create the temple’s distinctive
oasis in the heart of the city. architectural features, which
Because of the lovely view include a striking five-tiered
the site commands, Raffles gopuram, or entrance archway,
built his bungalow here, massive patterned rosewood
and until the mid-19th doors, and columns and prayer
century, it was home to halls richly decorated with
Singapore’s governors. sculptures of Hindu deities.
The park was also the The ceiling has 48 etched-
first site of Raffles’ glass panels of gods that
botanical garden. are angled to catch the rising The colorful gopuram of the Hindu
In 1860, Fort Canning and setting sun. Another Chettiar Temple
was built here; only the feature, a rarity for Hindu
fort gate still stands. Nearby temples, is the presence of
is the Fort Canning a thoonganai maadam, a a Clarke Quay
Center, formerly a barracks representation of the rear
3 River Valley Road, Singapore 179019.
that now contains the of an elephant at rest. The Map 4 C2. q Clarke Quay. @ 14, 32,
Pinacotheque de Paris, dominance of the temple’s 54, 65, 139, 195, or 3 min. walk from
an offshoot of a private main deity is apparent Hill Street. 0 - = ( flea market
fine art gallery that has Sculpture, Fort throughout the on Sat & Sun. ∑ clarkequay.com.sg
made something of a Canning Park temple, with Lord
name for itself in Paris. Murugan represented Named for Sir Andrew Clarke,
Another historic landmark in six of his holy abodes. the second governor of
is the Battle Box, a World Inside the temple are two Singapore, Clarke Quay is an
War II bunker containing connected rooms, the upscale area along the banks of
a museum that uses mandapam and the antarala, the Singapore River with
animatronics to recreate the through which worshipers waterfront shops and eateries.
1942 surrender of the city to move to perform their devo- Lying near the mouth of the
the Japanese. The Battle Box tions. The antarala leads to Singapore River, the site of
reopens in late 2016 the innermost sanctum, the Clarke Quay was a commercial
following renovations. garbhagraha, which only priests hub during the late-19th
century, containing ware-
houses run by Chinese traders.
It was redeveloped in the early
1990s into an enter tainment
precinct offering restaurants,
wine bars, retail stores, craft
stalls, street performers, and
cruises in authentic bumboats
(boats that bring provisions
and commodities to ships
at port). While it is relatively
quiet during the day, Clarke
Quay offers a lively atmosphere
The wide frontage of the Fort Canning Center, now housing an art gallery at night.
temple has been repaired

several times over the years. In
its early days, the temple gave
shelter to new immigrants and
also served as a social center for
the community.
Although many of the
splendid friezes and statues
depict the Hindu divine trinity
of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, as
well as other Hindu deities, the
temple is dedicated to the
goddess Sri Mariamman (an
incarnation of Shiva’s wife
Parvati), known for her power to
cure disease. The temple is
famous for the annual Thimithi
festival (see p207) in autumn,
during which devotees walk on
hot coals as a sign of faith.
f Temple Street
Map 4 C4. q Chinatown. @ 51, 80,
124, 145, 174, 197, 608. 0 - =
The area bounded by Mosque,

Pagoda, Temple, Terengganu,
Figurines adorning the gopuram, or gateway, of Sri Mariamman Temple and Smith Streets is the place
that Sir Stamford Raffles had first
s Chinatown Temple, vividly decorated with earmarked for the Chinese
Heritage Centre about 72 Hindu deities. The community. It grew into the
complex is encircled by a hub of Chinese life and culture,
48 Pagoda Street. Map 4 C3. Tel 6221- boundary wall topped with with streets that were lined with
9556. q Chinatown. @ 61, 80, 197. figures of sacred cows. temples, traditional craft stores,
Open 9am–8pm daily. &
The oldest Hindu place of kongsi, or clan houses,
∑ chinatownheritagecentre.sg
worship on the island, Sri restaurants, and shophouses,
A superb museum housed Mariamman dates back to 1827 shuttered buildings where the
in three restored shophouses, when the first temple, a simple ground floor was occupied by a
the center provides one of the wood and attap, or thatched- shop while families lived on the
most vivid accounts of roof, was built on this site. The upper floor. Some shophouses
the history and culture of land belonged to an Indian contained opium dens and
Chinese immigrants. Three merchant, Narain Pillai, who brothels, giving the area a
levels of galleries recreate arrived in Singapore on the somewhat colorful reputation.
their living conditions and, same ship as Sir Stamford Sensitive restoration has
together with first-hand Raffles. It was replaced by the meant that much of the original
accounts of former residents present structure in 1843. The character of these shophouses
and a variety of artifacts, trace
the lives of early settlers and
evoke different periods of
Chinatown’s history.
d Sri Mariamman
Temple
244 South Bridge Road. Map 4 C4.
Tel 6223-4064. q Chinatown. @ 51,
80, 124, 143, 174, 197. Open 7am–
noon & 6–9pm daily.
The southern end of South

Bridge Road is dominated by
the gopuram, or entrance
gateway, of the Sri Mariamman The entrance to a shop on Temple Street, Chinatown
has been retained. Many are

painted in bright, contemporary
colors. While escalating rents
have driven out some of the
traditional businesses, the area
still features a variety of shops
selling souvenirs, antiques,
porcelain, and clothing. There
are also several pleasant
restaurants and cafés. The
surrounding housing blocks
also offer an authentic flavor of
the old Chinatown. These
streets come alive during
Chinese New Year, with Restored double-story shophouses in the Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area
festivities, vibrant decorations,
and food and gift stalls. j Tanjong Pagar now home to many lively
restaurants, bars, and hotels.
Conservation Area At the corner of Neil Road
g Chinatown Map 4 B5. q Tanjong Pagar. @ 80, and Tanjong Pagar Road is the
Complex 145. 0 - = former Jinrickshaw Station,
New Bridge Road. Map 4 C4.
built in 1903. Jinrickshaws were
q Outram Park, Chinatown. @ 2, 12, Once a nutmeg plantation, this first imported from Shanghai in
33, 54, 62, 63, 81, 124, 147, 961. Open area at the southern tip of the 1880s. By 1919 there were
10am–10pm daily. 0 - = South Bridge Road boasts about 9,000 rickshaws and
some of Singapore’s most 20,000 rickshaw-pullers. The
On the corner of Terengganu elegant stretches of renovated rickshaws were phased out by
Street and Sago Street, the shophouses. One of the first of legislation after World War II
Chinatown Complex houses the old neighborhoods to be and soon disappeared from the
one of the most boisterous wet renovated, Tanjong Pagar is streets of Singapore.
markets in the city, offering a
bewildering variety of fresh
produce. The most startling Shophouse
meat and fish, including frogs, Styles
is on sale in the mornings. The shophouse is a
memorable feature
of Singapore’s local
h Buddha Tooth
architecture. Five
Relic Temple and styles, roughly
Museum chronological, have
been identified –
288 South Bridge Road. Map 4 C4. the Early, the First
Tel 6220-0220. q Outram Park, Transitional, the The Early Style (1840– The First Transitional
Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar. @ 1, 12, Late, the Second
1900) shophouse is a Style (early 1900s)
33, 54, 63, 124, 143, 147, 961. Open squat, two-story shophouse is three
Transitional, and building. The windows stories high, such as this
7am–7pm daily. ∑ btrts.org.sg Art Deco styles. unit at Telok Ayer Street.
and façade are plain.
Opened in 2007, this hugely

popular temple gets its name
from what Buddhists regard
as the Sacred Buddha Tooth
Relic. A Tang-styled Chinese
Buddhist temple, it is based
on the Buddhist mandala, a
representation of the universe.
Look out for bone and tongue
relics in the Buddhist Culture
Museum on the third floor. On The Late Style (1900– The Second The Art Deco Style
the fourth floor is the Sacred 1940) shophouse is Transitional Style (1930–1960) shophouse
Light Hall with the temple’s flamboyantly (late 1930s) shop- is typified by classical
ornamented with house, such as this unit geometric motifs, as
centerpiece, the Buddha Tooth eclectic styles, as seen (No. 10) on Stanley illustrated by this unit
Relic, housed in a giant stupa in this unit (No. 21) on Street, is much simpler (No. 30) located on Bukit
made of gold. Only monks are Bukit Pasoh Road. and less ornate. Pasoh Road.
allowed into the relic chamber.
The distinctive architecture of Lau Pa Sat’s food court
k Ann Siang Hill l Telok Ayer Street on the site of the former Hock
Map 4 C4. q Tanjong Pagar, Map 5 D4. q Tanjong Pagar, Raffles
Teckk Ch’i Temple. Among its
Chinatown. @ 51, 61, 63, 80, Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 107, display of Chinese artifacts is a
103, 124, 145, 174, 197, 603, 608, 851. 130, 167, 186. 0 - = diorama depicting Telok Ayer
0-= Street as it would have been in
Originally located on the the 1850s. For a contrasting
Once a clove and nutmeg seafront before modern land experience, the temple site also
plantation, Ann Siang Hill and its reclamation, Telok Ayer Street, includes the tranquil, stylish
neighboring streets are today a which means water bay in Amoy boutique hotel.
hub of Chinese life and activity. Malay, retains much of the feel
The gently curving street, of 19th-century Singapore.
flanked by shophouses, makes On the street are a number of z Lau Pa Sat
for an interesting walking tour. traditional businesses, as well 18 Raffles Quay. Map 5 D4. q Raffles
Some of the shophouses feature as temples and mosques where Place. @ 10, 70, 75, 82, 97, 100, 107,
pintu pagar, or half doors, early immigrants gave thanks 130, 131, 167, 186. Open 24 hours. 0
reflecting Malay influence. Club for their safe passage. One -=
Street nearby is noted for its of the most famous is the
dining and upmarket boutiques. Hokkien Thian Hock Keng Singapore’s first municipal
It is also famous for its temple- Temple (see pp228–9), the city’s market, Telok Ayer Market,
carving shops and the clan oldest Chinese temple. The now renamed Lau Pa Sat, is an
associations and guilds that neighboring Al Abrar Mosque architecturally impressive food
gave the street its name. Some, was built between 1850 and court offering an extensive
such as the Victorian Chinese 1855 by Indian Muslims, who variety of Asian cuisines and is
Weekly Entertainment Club, also built the nearby Nagore a favorite lunch venue for
still survive on the hill, their Durgha in the 1820s, a blend of locals. Originally commissioned
walls plastered with photo- Classical architecture and by Raffles in 1822 on reclaimed
graphs of former members. Also Indian-Islamic details such as land, the elegant octagonal
striking are house numbers 33 arches and perforated grills. All cast-iron structure was
and 35, designed by architect three are national monuments. designed by James MacRitchie
Frank Brewer, famed for his Farther down the street is the and shipped over from a
skilled plasterwork. Fuk Tak Chi Museum, standing Glasgow foundry in 1894.
It was declared a national
monument in 1973.
The market was dismantled
during MRT tunnel construc-
tion and was later painstakingly
reassembled. The adjacent
Boon Tat Street is closed off to
traffic in the evenings for
traditional hawker stalls to
set up shop.
x Thian Hock Keng

Temple
Row of restored shophouses on Ann Siang Hill See pp228–9.

c Raffles Place
Conrad’s Lord Jim
Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 10, 70,
75, 82, 97, 100, 107, 130, 131, 167, 196. Born to Polish parents in what is
0-= now Ukraine, Teodor Josef Konrad
Korzeniowski sailed to many
Nowhere is Singapore’s places, including the Malay states,
transition from a colonial between 1874 and 1894, becoming a
backwater to a cutting edge, mariner and a British subject in 1886.
booming economy more Joseph Conrad is perhaps the most
apparent than in the gleaming celebrated English writer on late
skyscrapers of Raffles Place. This 19th-century Southeast Asia, and
is the heart of the city’s financial Singapore figures prominently in
world, packed with well-known his works, especially in the novel Joseph Conrad
multinational corporations and Lord Jim. It was in this region that
financial institutions. Among he heard of an English merchant navy officer, Austin Podmore
the first banks to open here Williams, who earned lasting disgrace by abandoning the steamer
were the Hong Kong and Jeddah, along with 953 Muslim pilgrims, in the Red Sea in 1880,
Shanghai Bank and Standard dooming himself to a life of exile. He became the tragic model for
Chartered Bank. The three Conrad’s Lord Jim.
tallest buildings in Singapore
are located here – UOB Plaza
and One Raffles Place Tower 1, v Boat Quay river. By the 1960s, however,
both designed by renowned Map 5 D3. q Raffles Place. @ 2, 12,
technological advances had
Japanese architect Kenzo 33, 51, 54, 61, 81, 103, 145, 147, 166, changed the face of the
Tange, and Republic Plaza. All 174, 190. 0 - shipping industry. New, high-
the buildings are 920 ft (280 m) tech container ports opened
high. The Bank of China A thriving strip of restored up farther up the river, claiming
building is one of Southeast shophouses converted into Boat Quay’s role in the river’s
Asia’s earliest skyscrapers. restaurants, shops, and bars, trade. Trading houses moved out
Dotted around the area Boat Quay today is very and the area slowly declined. The
are installations of different from the riverfront government embarked upon a
modern sculpture, area of a century ago. river-cleaning program which
including The center of the city’s cleared out all the bumboats
Salvador Dali’s commercial activities in the and the barges, leaving Boat
Homage to 1860s, most of its trading Quay a desolate region.
Newton (1985) was handled from here. The area has been restored
and Fernando Shophouses crowded the as part of a government-led
Botero’s Bird (1990). curve of the south bank, conservation project, reno-
The Merlion statue, the shape of which was vating the old shophouses and
symbol of the city, is thought to resemble godowns (warehouses) and
also located nearby. the belly of a carp, revitalizing the riverfront area by
Clifford Pier, which Dali’s Homage to Newton, an indicator of pedestrianizing it. There are
provided a location Raffles Place prosperity according plenty of bars and restaurants
for Conrad’s Lord Jim, to Chinese belief. The with enchanting views of the
is now a fine dining restaurant river teemed with bumboats, river. A taxi service also plies for
which has excellent views over which were used to load and customers between Boat Quay
the marina. unload ships anchored on the and Clarke Quay.
Bars and restaurants lining the riverbank at Boat Quay, once a busy trading center
x Thian Hock Keng Temple

Built in 1839, Thian Hock Keng Temple is the oldest
Chinese temple in Singapore. Constructed by Hokkien
sailors on the site of a joss house, it was the most
important center of worship for immigrants from their
community. It was also where seafarers gave thanks for
a safe passage to Singapore. Construction was paid for
by individual donors, the main one being Hokkien
leader Tan Tock Seng (1798–1850). The temple itself is . Roof Decorations
laid out along a traditional north–south axis and has On the temple’s roof ridge stand
shrines dedicated to several deities. Today, people of all twin dragons that embody the
principles of yin and yang.
ages come to this temple to give their thanks to Ma Between them is the “night-
Zhu Po, the goddess of the sea. shining pearl,” a glass globe that
represents the sun.
Rear Hall
Dedicated to the moon
goddess, Yue Gong
Niang Niang, Rear Hall
houses a shrine to the
goddess. She is
worshiped alongside
Kuan Yin, the goddess of
mercy. The sun god, Ri
Gong Tai Zi, is also
worshiped here.
. Secondary Shrines
In the side hall to the left of
the main courtyard stand
shrines to Kai Zhang Shen Wang,
an early immigrant, and Cheng
Hang, a local deity.
KEY
1 Gift Shop 5 The door at the main
entrance is decorated with
2 The pagoda, which used to
house Chong Wen Ge, the first temple guardians from
Chinese school in Singapore, was Chinese mythology.
built in 1849. 6 The main hall contains
the image of Ma Zhu Po, the
3 The roof ridge is decorated
with glazed tile chips. sea goddess. She is flanked by
Guan Gong, the god of war,
4 The furnace is where paper and Pao Sheng Da Di, the
money offerings and other gifts protector of life.
are burned to placate the spirits
of the dead.

158 Telok Ayer Street.
Map 5 D4. Tel 6222-8212.
Open 7:30am–5:30pm daily.
^ inside the temple.
Transport
q Tanjong Pagar.
Ancestor Tablets
The spirits of ancestors are
believed to reside in these
venerated tablets.
Granite Pillars
The intricate columns
which support the roof,
made of granite from
China, are carved with
entwined dragons.
. Ceiling of Main Hall

Gilded carvings on the temple’s ceiling
depict stories from Chinese folklore. These
carvings have been restored by artisans from
China. The gray pillars supporting the ceiling
are made of granite from China.
LITTLE INDIA AND

ORCHARD ROAD
Originally occupied by Europeans and joining Buginese, Boyanese, and Javanese
Eurasians, Little India was settled by the arrivals, to create a Muslim enclave. The
Indians when they set up brick-kilns and ethnic area of Little India is the spiritual
cattle yards in the latter half of the 19th heart and commercial center of the local
century. Packed with restaurants, shops, Indian community. Orchard Road lies to the
and ornate temples, the area is a mix of northwest of the Colonial Core. In the 1840s it
sights, scents, and sounds. With colonial was a dirt road, lined with orchards and
architecture and a Middle Eastern ambience, nutmeg plantations, but today it constitutes
Kampong Glam provides some of the best Singapore’s most historic shopping district.
insights into Singapore’s Malay community. Lavish hotels, cafés, pubs, and shopping
Arab traders were the earliest settlers, malls are located here.
TESSENS OHN ROAD
Sights at a Glance
SE RA NG OO
Historic Streets and Buildings

2 Malay Heritage Centre
3 Arab Street
N RO AD
7 Serangoon Road
9 Dhoby Ghaut OWEN RD
Farrer
OAD
Mosques and Temples Park SYED ALWI R
JA LA
N SU
AD
JA LA N
RA CE CO
RO l
LTA N
NORTHUM
R O C HOR CANAL ana
VICTORIA ST
1 Masjid Sultan E L L RO
AD
chor C
RO W
4 Leong San See Temple
BESAR
RD
UR SE RO
Y
BERLAND
SAM
R D Ro
5 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya

NOR
E RA
VE
SERAN
CHANDE
ARAB ST
6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple pp236–7 WELD RD
TH
PPER
AD
RD
I
RD
ROAD
N GE
8 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple ICKSON

BEACH ROAD
ER D
GOON
IR
R RD
U PP OPH
BRIDGE
SU
0 Peranakan Place and Emerald Hill

CLIVE ST
D
t Goodwood Park Hotel Little IR
GE A L RD ROCHOR
RD
India
S U N CAN RD
TIMAH RD H OR Bugis
VICTORIA ST
WATERLO
Shopping D RO C ST
QUEEN ST
TIMAH R AL BE RT
ROAD
SE L E
q The Centrepoint
SHORT ST
BEN CO OL EN
w ION Orchard
G
ROAD
ST
IE
MIDDLE
RD
e Ngee Ann City

r Tangs
PR
WATERLOO STR
INS
STR EET
y Tanglin Mall
EP
STRE
ET
EET
AD
Y RO
ND Dhoby
HA Ghaut
D
R
AD
ING
AM
AT AD R OC
ANN
MO LE R O
KRLANE R D
UN A M
H A N G AV EN
TC
TT T C N
CO
AYIV OR PE EN CE
DRD R E C AIRNH
SCO
UE AU
FOR
EL
IL L
X LEY R I S E
I ZA
RO Somerset O
TTS
BET
AD
L
HIL
NU D RD
ROA
T M EG R D ET
ORE
R OA
RS AD
GRAN GE RD
LINK
ARD ME
SO RO
YM
OR E CH
D
YMD OR
C H ARD
CLA R
CLA
ROA E TE
ORCHARD TURN EX
Orchard
OR
ARD BOULEVARD
ORCH
ROAD
D
EN R
RD
CAD
VA
LIN
BOULE
CUS
TA N G
TOMLI
N
ROADSON 0 meters 500
H ARD
0 yards 500
GRANGE
See also Street Finder
RC
O
RD
maps 1, 2 & 3
Exuberant carving on the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, Little India For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street:
Kampong Glam
Kampong Glam is the focal point of Muslim life in
Singapore. Its name is derived from the Malay words
kampung, or village, and gelam, a tree that once grew
abundantly in the area. In 1819, the area was given to
Sultan Hussein Shah as part of a treaty by which Alsagoff Arab School
Singapore was ceded to the British. The Sultan built his Built in 1912, this was the first girls’
palace, the Istana Kampong Glam, and the stunning school and the first Muslim school to
be built in Singapore. It was named
Masjid Sultan here and soon the area was filled with
for a prominent Arab trader and
Muslims from diverse ethnic backgrounds. This early impact philanthropist.
is reflected in the distinct Islamic flavor of its street names,
shops, buildings, and restaurants. Arab Street is a major
draw, with its intricate textiles, fine leather, and caneware. To Malabar
Good Malay food stalls can be found on Kandahar Street. Jama-Ath Mosque
and old Malay
cemetery
2. Malay
Heritage Centre
Malay motifs
combine with
Palladian style in the
former Istana
Kampong Glam
AD
palace, now a Malay

RO
cultural center.
GE
RID
H B
1. Masjid Sultan
Designed by Irishman
RT
Denis Santry, this

NO
mosque dominates
the skyline with its
golden domes and
four corner minarets.
K AN
DAH
AR
STR
EET
REE T
M U S C A T ST
Gedung Kuning
This yellow mansion,
erected in the 1920s
by Sultan Ali Iskandar
Shah, is an example of To Bugis MRT ARA
B ST
Palladian-inspired REE
Station T
architecture.
LITTLE INDIA AND ORCHARD ROAD 233
Hajjah Fatimah Mosque LIT TLE INDIA

Named for a female Melakan merchant, it was AND ORCHARD
ROAD
built in 1846, with an eclectic mix of European,
Chinese, and Middle Eastern architectural styles.
THE COLONIAL
CORE AND
CHINATOWN
To Lavender
MRT Station Locator Map
Sultan Plaza
Jalan Sultan
Center
JA
LA
N
SU
LT
AN
EET
ALI
STR
WA
L S
TR EET
ANG
PAH
Pondok Java
used to be a
AD
theater for
Javanese
RO
SU
LTA immigrants
N G
H
ATE
but now lies
AC
derelict.
BE
Bussorah Mall
This street leads to the Masjid
Sultan, and comes to life during
the Muslim fasting month.
Religious items and a variety
of foods are sold here.
ET
RE
ST
AD
Key
BUS
HD
SOR Suggested route

AH
STR
BAG
EET
0 meters 100
. Arab Street 0 yards 100
Rows of shops line Arab Street,

selling fine textiles, cane, rattan,
and straw products.
3 Arab Street
Map 3 E4. q Bugis. @ 2, 7, 12, 32,
33, 51, 61, 62, 63, 125, 130, 145, 197,
520, 851, 960. 0 - =
Located within the smallest of

Singapore’s ethnic quarters, this
street acquired its name from
the Arab merchants who settled
here when they came to trade
in the 19th century. The vibrant
colors of Arab Street are striking.
It is a maze of shops that sell all
manner of Middle Eastern and
Main prayer hall inside the Masjid Sultan Islamic wares. Religious items
such as prayer mats, holy beads,
1 Masjid Sultan named the area Kota Raja, or copies of the Koran, and skull
3 Muscat Street. Map 3 E4. Tel 6293-
the King’s Enclave. In 1840, his caps jostle for space with
4405. q Bugis. @ 7, 32, 124, 145, son, Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah, excellent basketware, rattan,
166, 174, 195, 197. Open 9:30am– the last Sultan of Singapore, cane and straw work, leather
noon & 2–4pm daily (2:30–4pm Fri). built the present palace. The products, jewelry, precious and
& voluntary. Note: visitors can only Istana presides over extensive semi-precious gems, and
view the prayer hall from the foyer. grounds. Several smaller Malay perfumes. Visitors should be
∑ sultanmosque.org.sg village-style houses were built prepared to bargain. The
within the walled compound. majestic Masjid Sultan looms
Named for Sultan Hussein Shah These housed the Sultan’s large over this pedestrianized tourist
of Johor, the mosque was entourage which included his market strip.
originally built in 1824 with the family of hundreds of relatives Arab Street is most famous
aid of a grant from the British and servants. Also on the for its textile stores. Bales of
East India Company, the result premises was the Kota Rajah colorful cotton, chiffon,
of a treaty between the Sultan Club, a sports club founded by a organza, and silk cloth cram
and Stamford Raffles. It was descendant of the Sultan, where the shopfronts and spill onto
replaced in 1928 by the present young men of good breeding the pavement. Batik from
structure, designed by Irish could enjoy recreational Indonesia and Malaysia,
architect Denis Santry. Arabesque activities such as badminton. handmade or machine-printed
in style with Moorish overtones, According to the 1904 Sultan with traditional designs, is
golden domes, balustrades, Hussein Ordinance, enacted by typically sold in sarong lengths
and arches, as well as a minaret the British Government, the of 6 ft (2 m). Shops also sell
at each corner, Singapore’s Sultan’s descendants were readymade batik shorts, shirts,
largest mosque accommodates entitled to live in the palace and dresses, ties, and table linen.
5,000 worshipers in its main receive an annual government To complement the fabric
hall. Visitors are guided by stipend. Over the years, sellers, specialist shops sell
multilingual docents. however, disputes and dwin- ostrich feathers, dazzling lamé
dling fortunes led the palace to in several shades, various types
gradually fall in ruins. It was of sparkling sequins, and
2 Malay Heritage then reclaimed by the govern- thread in a profusion of colors.
Centre ment, which compensated Traditional Malay wedding
Sultan Gate. Map 3 F4. Tel 6390-0450.
the Sultan’s descendants for outfits can also be found in
q Bugis. @ 107, 961, 980. Open their displacement. shops on Arab Street.
Compound: 8am–8pm Tue–Sun (to
10pm Fri & Sat). Museum: 10am–6pm
Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. &
This cultural center and its

museum, celebrating Malay
history, culture, and arts, are
housed in the Istana Kampong
Glam, formerly the official royal
residence of Sultan Hussein
Shah, who ceded the sovereign
rights of Singapore to the
British. As part of this historic
agreement, the Sultan built a
wooden palace in 1820 and Baskets and leather bags for sale on Arab Street
4 Leong San See the footprint of the Buddha. Bollywood movie soundtracks.
Temple Beyond, a 50-ft (15-m) seated The area is full of Indian
statue of the Buddha is illumin- restaurants such as Komala
371 Race Course Road. Map 3 E1. ated by the colored electric Villas, famous for vegetarian
Tel 6298-9371. q Farrer Park. @ 23,
lights that give the temple its food. The noise of fortune-
64, 65, 111, 130, 131, 133, 139, 147.
popular name. telling parrots, street pedlars,
Another relic that draws and a heady aroma of spices
Situated across the road from devotees here is a branch and flowers fill the air.
the dazzling Sakya Muni believed to be from the bodhi,
Buddha Gaya Temple, the Leong or peepul, tree under which
San See Temple honors Kuan the Buddha gained his 8 Sri Veeramakali-
Yin, the goddess of mercy and enlightenment. In a chamber amman Temple
compassion, and Shakyamuni behind the Seated Buddha is a 141 Serangoon Road. Map 3 D3.
Buddha. Leong San See, or statue of the Reclining Buddha. Tel 6295-4538. q Dhoby Ghaut,
dragon mountain temple, was About 25 scenes from the Bugis. @ 23, 64, 65, 103, 106, 111, 125,
built in 1917 by a Buddhist Buddha’s life are portrayed on 130, 131, 142, 147, 151, 857. Open
monk. Today, both Taoists and the base of the statue. Visitors 6am, 1pm, 4pm, 7:30pm daily. 0 =
Buddhists worship here. The can have their futures foretold
temple is beautifully decorated at a wheel of fortune near the This temple, built in 1881 by
with timber beams and intricate prayer hall. Bengali laborers, is dedicated to
carvings of phoenix, dragons, the Hindu goddess Kali, who
chimeras, and flowers. A court- epitomizes the struggle of good
yard in the temple contains 6 Sri Srinivasa over evil and is the consort of
many ancestral tablets. Shiva, the god of destruction.
Perumal Temple The name of the temple means
See pp236–7. Kali the Courageous.
The main altar of the temple
has a black statue of Kali with
7 Serangoon Road each of her many arms and
Map 3 F1. q Little India. @ 23, 64,
legs holding a weapon. She is
65, 106, 111, 125, 130, 131, 142, 147. flanked by her two sons
70= Ganesh, the elephant god,
and Murugan, the child god
The early Indian migrants to riding a peacock. The temple
Singapore in the 19th century is especially crowded on
settled along the banks of the Tuesdays and Fridays, which
Rochor Canal. The area eventu- are Hindu holy days when
ally became a trading and devotees throng the temple
cattle-breeding center, evident to worship.
from street names such
as Kerbau Road, which
means Buffalo Road in
Large gilded Buddha at Leong San Malay. Over time, as
See Temple more Indians arrived,
Serangoon Road
became the heart of
5 Sakya Muni “Little India,” the
Buddha Gaya religious, cultural, and
economic center for the
366 Race Course Road. Map 3 E2. Tel local Indian community.
6294-0714. q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, One of the oldest
65, 106, 111, 125, 130, 131, 142, 147,
roads in Singapore,
151, 857. Open 7:30am–5pm daily. 7
Serangoon Road is a
kaleidoscope of
Popularly known as the Temple quintessential Indian
of a Thousand Lights, Sakya life. Vying for attention
Muni Buddha Gaya was built by are elaborate Hindu
Vuttisasara, a Thai monk. The temples and ornate
temple has a Thai wat design, shophouses. The
embellished with a mix of shopkeepers hang
Chinese and Indian influences. mirrors above their
To the left of the entrance is an doors to ward off evil
ebony and mother-of-pearl influences and sell Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, a temple in honor of
replica of what is believed to be jewelry, textiles, and the Hindu goddess Kali
6 Sri Srinivasa Perumal

Temple
One of the most important religious buildings in Singapore,
this Hindu temple is devoted to the worship of Lord Vishnu
(also known as Perumal). It is also one of the oldest temples in
Singapore. Built in 1854, the temple was originally a simple
structure with a mandapam, or a prayer hall, and the area
around the temple had many ponds and vegetable gardens.
In 1966, when the temple was consecrated, a six-tiered
gopuram, or entrance tower, was built, funded by one of the
earliest Indian migrants, P. Govindasamy Pillai. The temple is . Mandapam
the starting point of the annual Thaipusam festival parade. The main mandapam or prayer
hall has a decorated ceiling that is
supported by ornately carved
columns.
. Subsidiary Shrines
Several subsidiary shrines are
dedicated to different deities. This
shrine is in honor of Ganesh, the
elephant-headed god who
removes obstacles.
KEY
1 The inner sanctum is where the

main idol lies. Only priests can enter.
2 The office provides information Vimanams
on temple activities. Decorated vimanams, or domes, mark the position of the
temple’s subsidiary shrines.
Thaipusam Festival
This Hindu festival begins at dawn at the temple. Male devotees
enter a trance-like state, carrying ornately decorated kavadis, or steel
arches, attached by metal hooks to their torsos, with skewers pierced
through their tongues and cheeks. Devotees take part in this act in
penance for their sins and in honor of Lord Murugan, the god of
bravery, power, beauty, and virtue. Women carry coconut milk pots,
also fulfilling vows relating to penance. Accompanied by chanting
and singing, they walk to Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road, Devotee carrying an ornately
about 2 miles (3 km) away. decorated kavadi

397 Serangoon Road. Map 3 E2.
Tel 6298-5771. Open 6:30am–
noon & 6–9pm daily. 7 8 on
request.
Transport
q Farrer Park. @ 23, 64, 65, 111,
130, 131, 139, 147, 857.
Main Shrine
Here, devotees make offerings of
ghee, flowers, and fruit, to the
accompaniment of music and
chanting. They also sprinkle their
heads with holy water.
Vishnu
This sculpture of Vishnu
shows him with four sacred
instruments – the conch
shell, club, lotus, and saber.
. Gopuram
The 60-ft- (20-m-)
high entrance
tower has six tiers
of sculptures.
Main Entrance
Statuary stands guard on either Hanuman
side of the massive wooden This shrine is dedicated to Hanuman,
door. Devotees ring the bells the monkey god. In the Hindu epic, the
before entering, asking the Ramayana, he helps rescue Sita from
gods to grant their prayers. the demon, Ravana.
Street-by-Street:
Orchard Road
Stretching from Tanglin Mall to Plaza Singapura, the range
and scale of retail outlets on Orchard Road make it an
exemplary shopping experience. Shady trees dot the road
between malls and department stores, including Singapore’s
e Ngee Ann City
oldest, Robinsons at The Heeren and the historic Tangs. With seven floors, Ngee Ann
These large, glitzy buildings are interspersed with smaller City has plenty going on
designer boutiques, antique stores, cafés, and food courts. inside. It has more than 30
Crowds throng the streets, especially on weekends. restaurants, a post office, banks,
a Japanese department store,
and more than 120 shops
Wheelock Place (see pp240–41)
Shaped like a steel and glass
Christmas tree, Wheelock Place
houses a department store and a Paragon shopping center
few restaurants. boasts a vast, shop-lined
atrium. It houses five
floors of gift, fashion, and
lifestyle stores.
Tangs
Delfi Orchard
(see p241)
Knightsbridge
shopping mall
Forum is packed with

shops selling clothes
and children’s toys. Liat Towers
y. Tanglin Mall w. ION Orchard

A paradise for antique lovers, Tanglin Mall is a This vast, architecturally impressive center with shiny
treasure-house for old maps, bric-à-brac, floors and snaking escalators offers a huge number of
books, furniture, carpets, and art brands under one roof.
LIT TLE INDIA

AND
ORCHARD
ROAD
THE COLONIAL
CORE AND
CHINATOWN
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
0. Peranakan Place
Beyond Peranakan Place’s Baroque Chinese shophouse
façade are modern, air-conditioned shops selling
Eastern and Western goods, as well as restaurants,
cafés, and pubs (see p240).
q The Centrepoint
The Centrepoint houses a diverse
selection of stores over six floors and
The Heeren is the a basement. Its flagship store, Metro,
place for trendy has an excellent range of household
clothing, a huge goods. Cold Storage in the
music store, and basement has one of the best
the Robinsons supermarket selections (see p240).
department store.
0 meters 200
0 yards 200
Cuppage Plaza
To Park Mall
Park Mall
Furniture and interior
decoration are the
Plaza Singapura themes of Park Mall.
One of the earliest malls on Orchard Road, From the traditional to
Plaza Singapura was refurbished in the 1990s. As the avant garde, displays
well as a department store, it houses a number of include items from
specialist outlets. Europe and Asia.
9 Dhoby Ghaut was later acquired by the

Map 2 C4, 4 C1. q Dhoby Ghaut. @
Peranakans (see p26). From 1900
7, 14, 16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 85, 106, 111, to 1930, 30 different owners built
123, 124, 139, 143, 167, 171, 174, 190, residential units along Emerald
502, 518. 0 = Hill Road resulting in a street
lined with unique Peranakan
The area known as Dhoby Ghaut architecture. Interesting features
takes its name from the dhobies, include the wooden pintu
or Indian laundrymen, who pagar, or half doors across
worked here many years ago, unconventional doorways. Also
and ghaut, which means landing visible are colorful ceramic tiles,
place in Hindi. Dhobies used to mirrors above doors to ward off
go door-to-door, collecting evil spirits, and animal reliefs to
clothes from residents and invite good luck. Toward
recording the items in a book. Orchard Road, these terrace
They washed the clothes in the houses were converted into The Centrepoint shopping center,
nearby stream, which ran down shophouses, with the first floors Orchard Road
the side of Orchard Road, and occupied by small stores and
dried them on land that is now seamstresses. Birkenstock, and Lacoste to
occupied by the YMCA. This The buildings on Peranakan Singaporean and Hong Kong
land was also once the site of Place have been carefully fashion outlets, jewelry shops,
detention and interrogation restored, making this area the interior decoration, and
rooms used by the Japanese only stretch of old shophouse furniture shops.
during World War II. Next to the architecture left on Orchard
YMCA is a white Presbyterian Road. It now houses restaurants,
church established by Scottish cafés, and boutiques. w ION Orchard
settlers in 1877. It was once 2 Orchard Turn. Map 1 F2. Tel 6238-
used as a supply base for 8228. q Orchard. @ 14E, 124, 128,
Japanese civilians. q The Centrepoint 143, 162. Open 10am–10pm daily. 0
176 Orchard Road. Map 2 B4. Tel 6737- - ∑ ionorchard.com
0 Peranakan Place 9000. q Somerset. @ 7, 14, 16, 65,

77, 106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171, The vast ION Orchard mall
and Emerald Hill 174, 190. Open 10am–10pm daily. 0 joined the shopping scene in
Emerald Hill Road. Map 2 B4. - ∑ fraserscentrepointmalls.com 2009. With more than 300 stores,
q Somerset. @ 7, 14, 16, 65, 77, including designer names such
106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171, This large shopping center as Louis Vuitton, Prada, and
174, 190. 7 0 - = first opened in 1858 and is one Cartier, the road’s largest mall
∑ peranakanplace.com of Singapore’s oldest malls. The draws massive crowds,
store claims to have the best particularly at the weekend. An
An upscale neighborhood of seasonal sales in Singapore, extensive food hall offers a
traditional residences, plush one of which coincides with myriad of choices, from the best
boutiques, and pricey eateries the Great Singapore Sale held hawker fare to international
today, Peranakan Place and in June (see p253). There is a flavors. The art and exhibition
Emerald Hill were originally host of other shops from gallery on the fourth floor is the
granted in 1845 to Englishman branded Western retailers largest of its kind in Singapore.
William Cuppage. Emerald Hill such as Marks & Spencer,
e Ngee Ann City

391A Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. Tel
6506-0461. q Orchard. @ 7, 14, 16,
65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124, 143, 167, 171,
174, 190. Open 10am–9:30pm daily.
0 - ∑ ngeeanncity.com.sg
Popularly known as “Taka”, Ngee

Ann City has marble twin towers
and a main entrance that has
two silver columns and is
guarded by two hand-carved
foo dogs imported from China
to bring prosperity. The building’s
atrium is five floors high, criss-
crossed by escalators, and
The multicolored shophouses near Peranakan Place packed with over 100 local and
architect who also designed its

famous rival, Raffles Hotel,
Goodwood competed furiously
for famous guests – Charlie
Chaplin stayed at Raffles while
Goodwood boasted the Duke of
Windsor as a patron.
When World War II broke out,
Goodwood was again seized,
this time by the occupying
Japanese forces. After the war, it
was chosen to be the venue of
a court dealing with war crimes.
Today, this landmark, the only
colonial hotel apart from Raffles,
has returned to its former
incarnation. Its elegant corridors
are lined with art and antique
Modern sculpture and fountain in front of Ngee Ann City furniture and in 1989, the
Tower Wing of the hotel,
international specialty stores. Chinese immigrant of the distinguished by its gable
The dazzling array of some of 1920s. From selling his wares on ends with ornamental plaster
the world’s prestigious retailers a cart, the dynamic C K Tang work, was selected as a national
includes Gucci, Chanel, Tiffany, nurtured his business into a monument. The hotel has
Cartier, Tod’s, Kenzo, Wedgwood, store that rivals all others on also grown from its original
Burberry, Waterford, Bulgari, Louis Orchard Road. From under its 60 rooms into a 234-room
Vuitton, Loewe, and Takashimaya, distinctive pagoda-style roof, it luxury retreat with a fantastic
a Japanese department store. now sells everything from range of restaurants.
Other facilities at the mall cosmetics to rice cookers.
include a post office, a ticket-
booking office, a great y Tanglin Mall
Kinokuniya bookstore, banks, a 19 Tanglin Road. Map 1 E2. Tel 6737-
private health club, a night-club, 0849. q Orchard @ 7, 36, 105, 111,
and a café with a great view 123, 132, 502. Open noon–6pm Mon–
over the Civic Plaza. Sat. 0 - = ∑ tanglinsc.com
Tucked away at the far end of

r Tangs Orchard Road and removed
310 & 320 Orchard Road. Map 2 A3.
from the bustle is the quiet
Tel 6737-5500. q Orchard. @ 7, 14, Tanglin Mall, unrivaled for its
16, 36, 64, 65, 77, 106, 111, 123, 124, array of collectibles, vintage
132, 139, 143, 167, 171, 174, 190, 502, items, antiques, and art. Shop
518, 700. Open 10:30am–9:30pm after shop offers a veritable
Mon–Thu, 10:30am–11pm Fri & Sat, treasure of Persian rugs,
11am–8:30pm Sun. 0 The distinctive tower of the elegant tapestries, curios made of jade
∑ tangs.com.sg Goodwood Park Hotel and brass, and contemporary
Southeast Asian art.
The growth of Singapore’s most t Goodwood Park Tanglin, a favorite haunt of
famous department store Hotel expatriates, is home to some
reflects the vision of a young of the “firsts” and “bests” of
22 Scotts Road. Map 2 A3. Tel 6737- Singapore shopping. Antiques
7411. q Orchard. @ 54, 105, 124, of the Orient, the best-
132, 143, 167, 171, 190, 518, 700. 0 stocked seller of antique
= ∑ goodwoodparkhotel.com
maps and secondhand books
in Singapore, has fascinating
Originally the Teutonia Club for prints, postcards, and
German expatriates in the early photographs. Apsara offers a
1900s, the Goodwood Park good collection of Chinese
Hotel was declared enemy and Burmese antiques. Also
property and seized by the on offer are impeccably
government when World War I tailored men’s suits, toy
broke out in 1914. In 1929, the stores, sportswear, nail bars,
Tangs department store, popular with both club was converted into a hotel. and hairdressers, as well as
locals and visitors Designed by J Bidwell, the some good restaurants.
FARTHER AFIELD
Some of Singapore’s most interesting sights Gardens is a treasure-house of rare orchids
lie outside the city limits. Though much and makes a peaceful retreat. Other sights
of its west is dominated by industrialized of historic and religious significance include
towns such as Jurong, it still contains some the museum at Changi village and Kusu
major tourist attractions including the Island. The island is famous for its turtle
theme park Haw Par Villa, the Science Centre legend and is popular with Taoists and
Singapore, and the fascinating Jurong Bird Muslims. To the south, Sentosa is the city’s
Park. The central north area retains the favorite getaway spot and now boasts the
island’s spectacular primary rain forests and vast Resorts World complex with the Sealife
mangrove swamps and is dedicated to most Aquarium. East Coast Park offers a range of
of its nature reserves, such as Bukit Timah outdoor and indoor activities. The rustic
and Singapore Zoo. The Singapore Botanic island of Pulau Ubin is a peaceful retreat.
Sights at a Glance
Parks, Gardens, and Themed Attractions
Nature Preserves 3 Singapore Discovery Center
1 Singapore Zoo 5 Science Centre Singapore
2 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 7 Haw Par Villa
4 Jurong Bird Park Outlying Islands
6 Singapore Botanic Gardens pp246–7
8 Kusu Island
0 East Coast Park
9 Sentosa pp250–51
Museum w Pulau Ubin
q Changi Museum
Woodlands
Pasir Gudang
M A L AY S I A
Lim Chu New Town Pulau
Yishun
Kang New Town Punggol
Barat
Pulau Ubin
EXPRESSW
MPINES
G
AY
TA
N
Changi Point
U KA
Sengkang Ferry Terminal

Choa Chu Kang New Town
New Town
L IM CH
Bukit Panjang Pasir Ris Changi

New Town Hougang New Town
Ang Mo Kio New Town Village
New Town
Serangoon
D
PA Tampines
ROA
Bukit Batok New Town

New Town N Bishan New Town
Jurong West I
AST
New Town
SL
New Town AN
I CO
D
Jurong East Toa Payoh Simei
NG
New Town New Town New Town

CHA
Holland Bedok
Jurong Village New Town AY
R KW
A S T PA
Queenstown T CO
EAS Tanah Merah
New Town
PAS
Ferry Terminal
Selat Juron City
re
IR
g po
nga
AN
P
JA
N Tanjong
Pagar f Si
Pulau t o
G
Jurong Island RO
Rentan Laut A D i
ra
Harborfront St
Pasir Panjang
Ferry 0 km 5
nd an
la t Pa Pulau
Se Bukum Sentosa Ferry
0 miles 5
Terminal
Key
Street Finder Highway Railroad
Built-up area Major road
Baby parrots at the Jurong Bird Park For keys to symbols see back flap
2 Bukit Timah
Nature Reserve
177 Hindhede Drive. Tel 6468-5736.
q Bukit Batok, then taxi. @ 67, 75,
171. Closed until mid-2016 for
renovations; check website for latest
details. 0 ∑ nparks.gov.sg
One of the only two rain forests

in the world that are within city
limits, Bukit Timah was
established as a reserve in
Singapore in 1883 to protect
the native biodiversity. Today,
about 410 acres (164 ha) of the
rain forest, which once covered
the entire island, still exist,
containing a cornucopia of flora
The endangered Malayan tiger in Singapore Zoo and fauna, and providing a
refuge for many mammals,
1 Singapore Zoo and golden-lion tamarins. There birds, and reptiles. Bukit Timah
80 Mandai Lake Road. Tel 6269-3411.
is also a children’s petting zoo; has cycling and walking trails,
q Ang Mo Kio, Choa Chu Kang, aquariums offering clear one of which leads to the
Woodlands. @ 138 from Ang Mo Kio, underwater views of sea lions highest point, Bukit Timah Hill,
927 from Choa Chu Kang, 926 from and penguins; and a reptile 540 ft (164 m) above sea level.
Woodlands bus interchange (Sun & garden with several different The reserve should be open
public hols). Open 8:30am–6:30pm habitats. The zoo’s breeding again from mid-2016 following
daily. & 7 8 optional. 0 = program is well known and it closure for restoration work.
∑ zoo.com.sg Night Safari: Open has the distinction of fostering
7:30pm–midnight daily (last adm the world’s first tropical birth of
11pm). & ^ a polar bear cub. There are daily
animal shows and feeding times
Set in refreshingly green featuring sea lions, elephants,
and peaceful surroundings, primates, and reptiles. Visitors
the Singapore Zoo is one of also have the opportunity to
the world’s few open zoos, have breakfast or tea with the
where animals roam freely in orangutans, which makes it a
landscaped enclosures that wonderful and memorable visit.
simulate their habitats. Dry The Night Safari, sprawled
and wet moats camouflaged over 100 acres (40 ha) of lush
by waterfalls and vegetation secondary forest next to the
separate the animals from zoo, is a night zoo and a wildlife
visitors. While some animals, park combined. This unique
such as leopards, jaguars, and sight allows visitors to observe
pumas still have to be kept in the nocturnal activities of over
glass enclosures, others such 2,500 animals belonging to over Cycling on the bike track at the Bukit Timah
as monkeys and peahens 110 different species. A 45- Nature Reserve
roam freely. minute guided tram ride (with a
The zoo houses about 3,000 hop-on-hop-off option) takes
animals, representing 290 visitors through eight habitats 3 Singapore
species. Several of them are rare designed to resemble the Discovery Center
such as the white (Bengal) tiger Himalayan, Indian, Nepalese,
510 Upper Jurong Road. Tel 6792-
and clouded leopard, while African, Indo-Malayan, South- 6188. q Boon Lay. @ 182, 193 from
others are endangered species east Asian, South American, and Boon Lay. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun.
such as the Komodo dragon Burmese geographical regions. & 7 0 = ∑ sdc.com.sg
and the Malayan tiger. There is also a Wallaby Trail
Major exhibits include Wild where visitors can observe Originally intended as a
Africa with its white rhinos and some of Australia’s native museum to showcase the
magnificent lions, the Fragile nocturnal species, including history of Singapore Armed
Forest, which is a walk-through bush-tail possums, sugar gliders Forces (SAF), the Singapore
rain forest filled with butterflies, and wallabies. The River Safari is Discovery Center today gives an
bats, and birds, and the Primate an extension to the Zoo and interesting glimpse into
Kingdom featuring lion-tailed Night Safari, focusing on river Singaporean life. Visitors can
macaques, brown capuchins, fish, mammals, and reptiles. learn about Singapore’s past,
For hotels and restaurants see p283 and p301
FA R T H E R A F I E L D 245
5 Science Centre
Singapore
15 Science Centre Road, off Jurong
Town Hall Road. Tel 6425-2500.
q Jurong East. @ 66, 178, 198, 335.
Open 10am–6pm daily. 7 0 -
= ∑ science.edu.sg
Omnimax Theater: Open 9:30am–
8:30pm Tue–Sun and public hols. &
∑ omnitheatre.com.sg
Acclaimed as one of the world’s

top ten science museums, the
Science Centre Singapore has
Iguanas in the Reptile Garden, Singapore Zoo over 1,000 hands-on exhibits in
eight galleries that are
present, and future through endangered birds, can be seen dedicated variously to aviation,
various interactive exhibits. at Jurong Bird Park. The park has space science, ecology,
Located on the Singapore four aviaries, including the biotechnology, and IT among
Armed Forces Training Institute’s African Waterfall Aviary, the other disciplines. Visitors can
(SAFTI) grounds, the center is world’s largest walk-in aviary. explore innumerable scientific
about 48,500 sq ft (4,500 sq m), Here, visitors can walk among phenomena, and the Centre
with five main galleries and 1,500 free-flying birds against aims to make even the most
eight different themes. the backdrop of the world’s complex of principles more
Key milestone events that tallest man-made waterfall. accessible and easier to under-
shaped present-day Singapore Other highlights include the stand. The emphasis here is on
are presented through Lory Loft, which is a towering fostering the learning of
multimedia clips at The Gateway aviary offering magnificent science and technology in a
gallery, while the So Singapore 360-degree views of the creative, entertaining, and
Theatre is a fun way of finding landscape. This enclosure interactive way.
out about how the different showcases one of the largest Exhibits at the Science
races live in harmony in collections of Southeast Asian Centre include one that
Singapore. At the Singapore birds in the world. The penguin enables visitors to experience
Works gallery interesting games enclosure has a recreated the world from within a fish-
teach visitors about the Antarctic environment. Daily bowl. There is also a mock
challenges Singapore faces birdshows include the World of television studio, where
being a small island with no Hawks, which features a children are encouraged to
resources of its own. Singapore demonstration of the hunting become journalists for a day.
Way deals with hopes, dreams, skills of birds of prey. The Birds ‘n’ Next door, the Omnimax
and aspirations, and the Buddies show is an entertaining Theater features spectacular
Visionarium gallery allows visitors display by birds of different educational movies on science,
an opportunity to contribute ideas species who wear costumes technology, history, adventure
to the Singapore of the future. and talk to each other. Children sports, space, and the universe.
The center has a spectacular will love the Birdz of Play The movies are projected on
light and sound show with playground, which has both wet gigantic hemispherical screens
kaleidoscopic images of and dry bird-themed play zones. in a 276-seat theater.
Singapore. For a truly sensory
experience, a visit to Singapore’s
largest flat screen theater with
2D and 3D movies is a must. The
center also has a popular
shooting range.
4 Jurong Bird Park

2 Jurong Hill, off Ayer Rajah
Expressway. Tel 6265-0022. q Boon
Lay. @ 194, 251 from Boon Lay. Open
8:30am–6pm daily. & 8 0 =
∑ birdpark.com.sg
More than 5,000 birds across

380 species from all over the
world, including exotic and Science Centre Singapore, a place to explore science and technology
6 Singapore Botanic Gardens

The Singapore Botanic Gardens are located close to the
bustling city and have served as a peaceful sanctuary since
1859. This idyllic garden sits on 130 acres (52 ha) of land and
is dotted with lakes inhabited by swans, ducks, and turtles.
The park is excellent for a stroll around its pretty waterfalls,
landscaped fountains, and well-situated rest spots. Refrains of
orchestral music can at times be heard from outdoor concerts. .National Orchid Garden
With over 1,000 species, this
It has both primary jungle and manicured lawns. The gardens’ beautifully landscaped garden has
orchid breeding program, begun in 1928, has produced more the largest display of tropical
than 2,000 hybrids, with more being added each year. The orchids in the world.
garden has a reference library containing journals, rare books,
and botanical illustrations dating back to 1875.
VIP Orchid Garden

In 1928, the government
started breeding hybrid
orchids, and after 1957 started
naming selected ones for
distinguished guests.
Bandstand
This octagonal bandstand was
popular in the 1860s, when
promenading in the gardens
while listening to music
played by a band was a
fashionable pastime.
KEY
1 Swan Lake is home to a

host of swans as well as a variety
of pond flora.
2 Burkill Hall was home to
many of the Garden’s past
directors, including Isaac Henry
Burkill and his son.
3 The Tan Hoon Siang Mist
House contains rare orchid blooms.
Cultural artifacts particular to the Sculptures
orchid’s country of origin are Girl on a Swing (1984) is the first of
displayed alongside. a series of works created by
Sydney Harpley.
Cluny Road. Map 1 D1. Tel 6471-
7361. n Visitors’ Center, Evans
Road. Open 5am–midnight daily.
& orchid garden. 8 Sat. 0 -
Outdoor concerts some
weekends. ∑ sbg.org.sg
Transport
q Botanic Gardens. @ 7, 105,
106, 123.
. Yuen-Peng McNeice Bromeliad House Towards Eco Lake and Jacob

The collection of 20,000 bromeliads, which come from the forests of
Ballas Children’s Garden
Central and South America, was donated by Lady Yuen-Peng McNeice.
More than 700 species and 500 hybrids can be seen.
EJH Corner House

This colonial bungalow houses Au Jardin
les Amis, which is one of Singapore’s top
fine-dining restaurants.
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
Visitors’ Center
The center has an information counter, a café, a shop,
and restrooms, as well as ample parking space. It has
its own main entrance access from Evans Road.
Volunteers lead free guided tours of selected areas of
the gardens on Saturdays; times and details can
Symphony Lake usually be found on the website.
On an islet in the middle of Symphony Lake is the
Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage. Concerts and
performances are regularly held in the pavilion.
0 East Coast Park

Off East Coast Parkway (ECP). q
Bedok. @ 401. 0 - =
∑ nparks.gov.sg
The stretches of beach along

East Coast Park are considered
among the best in the country.
The park stretches for more
than 6 miles (10 km) along the
coast from Changi Airport to
Marina Bay. The seafront is lined
with palm trees, shady rest
areas, and park benches. For the
fitness-conscious there are
walking and jogging paths,
Exhibit from Chinese folklore at Haw Par Villa well-marked cycling and in-
line skating tracks, and a
7 Haw Par Villa or November), when Taoist competition-standard
262 Pasir Panjang Road. Tel 6872-
and Muslim devotees flock to skateboarding park. Bicycle
2780. q Harbourfront. @ 10, 30, the island on a pilgrimage. hire shops in the area offer a
51,143, 200. Open 9am–7pm daily. Taoists visit the island’s Tua Pek choice of racers and mountain
0= Kong Temple, which is dedi- bikes or tandems for couples.
cated to the patron saint of There is also an in-line skate
This landscaped park and villa merchants. Devotees pray for rental and repair store.
has picturesque surroundings, prosperity, good luck, and Fishing enthusiasts can set
carp ponds, and statues and wealth, light joss sticks, and up their rods; picnickers can
dioramas depicting aspects of make offerings of flowers pitch tents on the beach;
Chinese folklore and traditional and food. health buffs can work out at
values. Established by the Muslim devotees climb the outdoor fitness stations,
Aw brothers, Haw and Par, with 122 steps up a steep hill to visit and bird-watchers can take
the fortune they made from a Malay shrine of Keramat Kusu. a walk through designated
Tiger Balm, a camphor and Childless couples mark their bird sanctuaries.
menthol remedy still widely prayers by tying pieces of cloth The pleasing sea breezes
sold today, this theme park is around trees on their way up and scenic views of the East
based on Chinese legends and to the shrine. Coast Park make this a very
myths and aims to teach The island is known for its fashionable place to live. The
traditional values. Over 1,000 two blue lagoons, its vast area is well provided with bars,
statues and tablets show pristine beaches, and a wish- chic restaurants, and a host of
mythical creatures and tell ing well. It has undergone recreational facilities. The food
stories from Chinese folk lore. much development and has a on offer ranges from fast food
The Ten Courts of Hell section pleasant spot for picnics. and hawker fare to seafood and
is one of the most popular, However, overnight stays are Western snacks. At the East
graphically portraying the not permitted on the island. Coast Recreation Center, indoor
punishments for sins such as activities such as bowling,
gambling and theft. snooker, and children’s games
9 Sentosa can be enjoyed. For watersports,
See pp250–51. kayaks and windsurf boards can
8 Kusu Island
Tel 6534-9339 for ferry times.
@ 402. g from Marina South Pier.
& includes ferry ticket.
∑ islandcruise.com.sg
According to legend, Kusu

Island, or Turtle Island, was
actually a giant turtle which
transformed itself into land to
save two shipwrecked sailors,
one Chinese and one Malay.
Located 3 miles (5 km) off
Singapore, Kusu Island receives
most of its visitors during the
eleventh lunar month (October Taoist Tua Pek Kong Temple on Kusu Island
be hired from the Mana Mana prisoner Stanley Warren on the line the beach; and fishing nets
Beach Restaurant and Bar. walls, are also on display. spread out to dry in the sun.
Holiday chalets can be rented In the museum’s courtyard is The island has a variety of
for short-term stays. These a replica of the simple thatched- flora and fauna and includes
chalets on the beachfront also roof wooden chapel built by the species that once existed on
provide facilities such as POWs. The brass cross at the the mainland but now can
swimming pools, spas, and wreathed altar was crafted out only be found here. These
barbecue pits. The East Coast of spent artillery casings. include various fruit trees
Park is a local favorite, especially Tour groups of ten or more such as coconut, durian,
for weekend family outings. people are required to inform rambutan, and jackfruit, wild
the museum of their visit, at berries, wild orchids, the insect-
least three days in advance; call trapping pitcher plant, several
for further details. medicinal plants and herbs,
and mangrove flora. The
island’s wildlife includes
w Pulau Ubin monkeys, monitor lizards,
q Tanah Merah, Tampines. @ 2, 29.
water hens, squirrels, fruit
4 from Changi Village. Open daily. bats, and snakes such as
0-=® pythons and cobras. The waters
around the island teem with
Singapore’s second largest fish, crabs, and prawns. Pulau
offshore island, Pulau Ubin, Ubin is also a good spot for
which sits in the Johor Strait bird-watchers as birds of prey
Families cycling along well-marked tracks at between Changi and the such as eagles, kites, and
East Coast Park mouth of the Johor River, is hawks, and migratory birds
perhaps the last place left nest here during the northern
for a peek into the rustic winter months. Bicycles can be
q Changi Museum atmosphere of Singapore rented from the jetty. The
as it was in the 1960s. community
1000 Upper Changi Road North.
Tel 6214-2451. q Tanah Merah, A Malay and Chinese center nearby
Tampines. @ 2, 29. Open 9:30am– community once has a good
5pm (4:30pm last admission). 5 engaged in farming, collection of
5:30pm Sun. 8 - = granite quarrying, photographs of life
∑ changimuseum.sg and fishing on the on the island
island. Today, only during its heyday.
Changi Prison, which once about 200 people There are also a
served as a World War II live on Pulau Ubin. Jackfruit grown in few seafood rest-
prisoner-of-war (POW) camp Measuring only 5 miles Pulau Ubin aurants, old-style
for Allied troops, is still in use. (8 km) across and 1 coffee shops, and
Changi Museum is located just mile (1.5 km) wide, Pulau Ubin sundry shops that offer
up the road from the prison, at is the site of a traditional Malay necessities for the visitor, such
the site of the Old Changi Prison fishing village. The remnants of as insect repellent, sunblock,
Chapel. The museum is rural kampung life can still be hats, canned drinks, and snacks.
dedicated to all those who lived seen here: attap, or thatched- A couple of taxis ply the gravel
and died in Singapore, in roof, and zinc-roofed wooden tracks. Campsites, chalets, and
particular the prisoners who houses stand on stilts; sam- lodges provide overnight
suffered unspeakable torture at pans, or wooden fishing boats, accommodation on the island.
the hands of Japanese jailers
during their internment here.
Over the years, the museum
has amassed a valuable
collection of photographs,
paintings, and personal effects
donated by former POWs and
their families. A selection of
photographs by George
Aspinall, then a young
Australian trooper, and more
than 400 sketches by W R M
Haxworth are among the works
of art by various prison artists
that are showcased here.
Replicas of the Changi Murals,
which were originally drawn by Rustic Malay kampung house on Pulau Ubin
9 Sentosa
Sentosa Island was once called Blakang Mati, which means
“behind the dead” in Malay. One of the theories about the
origins of this name speaks of a mysterious disease that
claimed the lives of nearly all the original settlers. The British
used the island as a military base until 1967. Today, Sentosa,
which means “peace” in Malay, has been transformed into a
recreational playground with museums, historical sights,
theme parks, nature trails, and sporting activities. All the
sights can be reached by the island’s excellent transport
network. Resorts World Sentosa, a major family attraction Sentosa’s Wings of Time
with a vast oceanarium, covers a large part of the island. This 25-minute extravaganza
features majestic water effects,
fireworks, and a light projection
show at Sentosa’s Siloso Beach.
. Underwater World
In this tropical fish oceanarium, a moving
walkway transports visitors through a
274-ft (83-m) tunnel to view 2,500
species of marine life.
. Fort Siloso
The last bastion of the British during World .Adventure Cove Waterpark
War II, this fort was built in the 1880s and is The best waterpark in Singapore has rides both
an intriguing complex of bunkers, cannons, adults and children will enjoy, plus the opportunity
and underground passageways. to snorkel at an artificial reef teeming with fish.
1.3 miles (2.1 km) S of Singapore.
Tel 6275-0388. & 7 0 =
∑ sentosa.com.sg
Transport
@ to Sentosa; or to Mount Faber
or Harborfront Center, then cable
car.  Sentosa Express.
Sentosa Express
A monorail network, the Sentosa Express links Harbor Front,
Vivocity, and St James Powerhouse MRT stations on the
mainland to Beach and Imbiah stations. It also links sights
within the island.
.Resorts World Sentosa

Offering something for everyone,
this attraction has a marine-life
park with the world’s largest
oceanarium, a Universal Studios
theme park, casinos, shops,
and restaurants.
KEY
1 Siloso Beach
0 meters 200 2 Shangri-La Rasa Sentosa

Resort
0 yards 200
3 Dragon Trail nature walk.
4 Tiger Sky Tower gives a bird’s-
eye view of Singapore’s skyline.
5 Cable car from Mount Faber.
6 Imbiah station
7 The Sentosa Golf Club has
two 18-hole championship golf
courses and excellent facilities
including chipping and putting
greens, as well as a pro shop.
8 Merlion Walk
9 Beach station
Palawan Beach
A suspension bridge links Palawan Beach to a small islet that is 0 Sentosa’s Wings of Time
believed to be the southernmost tip of continental Asia.
SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE
Singapore is a shopper’s paradise. Scores of exclusive stores and boutiques, some of
shops at every turn offer almost unlimited the most exciting shopping can be found
choices. Whether you want to immerse in Little India, Chinatown, Arab Street,
yourself in the plush shopping arcades of and Holland Village. A rich selection of
Orchard Road or Raffles City, or scour the traditional Southeast Asian handicrafts,
flea markets and back alleys of the ethnic such as fine caneware, batik, and textiles,
quarters, Singapore caters to all tastes and is sold from stalls and specialist stores.
budgets. Best known for its attractively Singapore is also famous for its bargains
priced elec tronic goods, such as computers, and sales, especially on electronic goods,
mobile phones, and cameras, Singapore but do spend some time browsing to find
also offers luxury brands, art, antiques, the best deals and only buy from
curios, jewelry, and more. Away from the reputable dealers.
favorite, sells every conceivable How to Pay

item, from electrical to International credit cards are
household goods. Japanese accepted at most shops –
chain stores Isetan and MasterCard, VISA, American
Takashimaya are very popular, Express, Diners Club, and
as is the British retail outlet Citibank. It used to be the case
Marks & Spencer. Singapore’s that a surcharge was added
department stores and malls when a customer paid by
are well organized, with credit card, but that practice
obliging staff, and usually an has ended. However, some of
informative helpdesk. Singapore’s smaller shops and
the hawker stalls still insist on
being paid for purchases
Shopping Hours in cash.
VivoCity mall, with “wave” design features Most shops and malls are open Bargaining is an accepted
intended to echo its waterfront location every day from 10am to 9pm, practice in Singapore. Depart-
though a few stay open until ment stores generally have fixed
Department Stores 10pm or later. Mustafa Center in prices, but most other shops,
and Malls Little India is an exception – it is even in high-end malls, may be
Orchard Road (see pp238–9), open 24 hours a day, making it open to bargaining. It is best to
with its vast stretch of glitzy great for a midnight shopping be knowledgable about the
department stores and malls, excursion. The mall at Clarke correct value of a product.
such as Knightsbridge, Ngee Quay opens at noon and stays Start by asking the shopkeeper
Ann City, ION Orchard, and open until midnight. Little India for his best price and then
The Heeren, is packed with just and Arab Street are best avoided negotiate a suitable deal. Keep
about everything one could on Fridays as several shops may the exchange good-natured.
want – shoes, clothes, books, be closed for the Muslim holy Though several high-end
music, jewelry, carpets, curios, day. All 7-Eleven convenience shopping centers may accept
and especially branded luxury stores are open 24 hours a day. traveler’s checks in major
items. Tangs (see p241) and
Robinsons (see p239) at The
Heeren are two of the oldest
department stores on
Orchard Road. Park Mall
specializes in furniture and
interior decoration. Major
shopping malls can be found
all over Singapore, including
VivoCity, Raffles Hotel
Shopping Arcade, Holland
Village, Marina Bay Sands
(see p217), and Raffles City
Shopping Center. For
electronic goods, head to
Sim Lim Square or Funan
Digitalife Mall. Little India’s
Mustafa Center, a Singapore The Alessi Shop, a designer furnishing store in Park Mall
SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE 253
consumer may file a claim in

court for civil remedies. Most
claims should be filed under the
Small Claims Tribunal.
Permits and Laws
Singapore has a reputation for
stringent laws prohibiting the
purchase and transportation
of weapons, endangered
species, and narcotics. Even the
smallest offence is not over-
looked and can result in a fine,
caning, or brief imprisonment.
Visitors should be very careful
One of the many Southeast Asian handicrafts shops about what they buy, and
where they make their
currencies, it is always preferable provided with any electronic purchases. Also, don’t carry
to use the Singapore dollar. product and is properly dated anyone else’s luggage.
Traveler’s checks can be cashed and stamped.
at a number of banks, which are
open from 9:30am to 3:30pm
on weekdays, and 10am to 1pm Consumer Claims
on Saturdays. Currency can be The country has an excellent
exchanged at all banks and redress policy for tourist com-
hotels which display the plaints, such as being cheated
“Licensed Money Changer” sign. by a retailer or finding that an
international guarantee card has
not been properly filled out.
Sales Visitors’ complaints against
Daily newspapers such as The retailers and travel companies
Straits Times have listings of all can be registered via a
current sales. The free month- consumer hotline at the
lies, Where Singapore and Consumers Association of
Singapore Shopping Guide, Singapore (CASE). Consumers
published by the Singapore should first attempt to resolve Visitors trying their hand at haggling at a
Tourism Board, also give details the dispute with the business. busy Sunday flea market in Singapore
on shopping options. But for Failing which, consumers can
the true thrill of Singapore’s best seek CASE’s assistance to settle Taxes and Refunds
bargains, time your trip during the dispute. Tourists can file In Singapore, a 7 percent Goods
the Great Singapore Sale, held complaints with the Singapore and Services Tax (GST) is levied
every year between May and Tourism Board. If the dispute on most goods and services. A
July and promoted by the cannot be settled by CASE, the tax refund can be claimed on
Singapore Tourism Board. This purchases worth S$100 or more
super-sale offers discounts of up made at shops that display a
to 80 percent on almost all “Tax Free Shopping” logo. Claims
goods and is the perfect chance for refunds can be made at
to strike off all those things GST counters at Changi
crowding your wish list. Visitors International Airport or you can
from neighboring countries are use the Electronic Tourist
known to fly in just for this sale. Refund Scheme (eTRS). Kiosks
that allow you to process a
claim via the eTRS system are
Goods Return Policies located in the departures areas
Most large stores provide at the airport and at the city’s
shoppers with a receipt, and two cruise terminals. Receipts
accept returns of unused goods and purchased items should be
in original condition within retained as they will be needed
seven days of purchase. for verification before a refund is
Alternatively, an exchange may given. Refunds are limited to
be offered. Keep all receipts S$500 per person, and a credit
until the end of your stay. card will be required as proof of
Ensure that a warranty card that Interior of Ngee Ann City, one of identity. For further details visit
is recognized internationally is Singapore’s premier shopping malls the eTRS website.
Shoes and Bags

Where to Shop All the international designer
Malls and shopping centers are considered convenient places labels offer a superb selection of
to shop, as an extensive range of products is available under shoes and bags at their stores
one roof. Some malls have become popular for a particular on Orchard Road and other
product, such as Sim Lim Square and Funan Digitalife Mall, upmarket shopping arcades.
Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and
which are known for electronic goods. There are several Ferragamo are popular with
smaller boutiques and specialist outlets to choose from. Many shoppers. Charles & Keith and
warehouses and traditional shophouses throughout the city, Substance are among the
such as those that line the river, have been renovated into sought-after brands for shoes.
shopping venues. Little India, Chinatown, and Arab Street Singapore is also known for its
wide range of footwear at
brim with shops and galleries that sell handicrafts from their
affordable prices especially at
respective regions as well as from other Asian countries. Tangs and On Pedder. Arab
Street is the place to head to for
Clothes and Fabrics Chinese silk garments are fine leather products.
In Singapore, you will find inter- available at Tangs. Sizes of ready-
national designer brands, such made garments are in keeping
as Gucci, Calvin Klein, Burberry, with the petite Asian body frame. Antiques and Crafts
Emporio Armani, Hugo Boss, Antiques and handicrafts
Vera Wang, Giordano, and available in Singapore are
Chanel, located along Orchard Jewelry predominantly Southeast Asian.
Road and at the other major For exclusive platinum and Tanglin Mall (see p241) is the
shopping areas. Rising local 18-carat gold jewelry, luxury popular place for antiques and
designer Max Tan can be found brands such as Bulgari and art. Old maps and curios
at the hip lifestyle store Egg- Tiffany have outlets at from the Southeast are
ccessorize. The latest collections Raffles Hotel Shopping stocked at Antiques
from top Indian fashion design- Arcade, Orchard Road, of the Orient. The
ers are displayed at the upscale and Raffles City many shops at Clarke
Mumbai Se. Shopping Center. Local Quay, the renovated
For a great selection of textiles, jewelers Choo Yilin and warehouses along
the best areas are Arab Street Lee Hwa are reputed for Dempsey Road, and
(see p234) and Serangoon their excellent Lim’s Arts & Living
Road (see p235) in Little India. craftsmanship. For Handmade mask are also good places.
Indonesian and Malaysian batik antiques or gold For good handmade
silks are available on Arab Street, fashioned in ethnic Kashmiri, Persian, and
sold mostly by the meter. Batiks designs, such as Chinese orna- Turkish carpets, Amir & Sons in
are also sold in sarong lengths ments and Indian jewelry, China- Kampong Glam, the oldest
(about 6 ft/2 m) and as ready- town and Little India offer the carpet shop in Singapore, is
made garments. Indian saris (a best selection. Cheaper worth a visit. Arab Street is
6-yard/5.5-m length of cloth) imitations of the gold jewelry are known for Southeast Asian
can be found in Little India. available as well. Chinatown is crafts such as fine cane products.
Chinatown (see pp224–7) also a good place to buy Chinatown offers religious and
specializes in Chinese silk and Chinese jade jewelry. The hawker architectural artifacts. Brass
traditional garments such as stalls at Clarke Quay (see p223) statues and lamps can be
cheongsam and samfoo, which offer a good range of trendy found both in Little India as
can be bought readymade. silver pieces. well as in Chinatown.
Stacks of traditional Oriental textiles in vivid colors and patterns

DIRECTORY
Department Raffles Hotel Harbourfront Centre Lee Hwa
Stores and Malls Shopping Arcade (International 01-23, 200 Victoria Street.
328 North Bridge Road. Passenger Terminal) Map 3 D5. Tel 6334-2838.
Funan Digitalife Mall Map 5 E1. 1 Maritime Square. ∑ leehwajewellery.
109 North Bridge Road. Tel 6337-1886. Tel 6711-6311. com
Map 3 E4. Tel 6336-8327. ∑ raffleshotel.com/ ∑ harbourfrontcentre.
Tiffany
∑ funan.com.sg arcade com.sg 01-05 Raffles Hotel
The Heeren The Shoppes @ Marina Bay Cruise Shopping Arcade, 328
260 Orchard Road. Marina Bay Sands Centre North Bridge Road.
Map 2 B4. Tel 6738-4388. 2 Bayfront Avenue. 61 Marina Coastal Drive. Map 5 E1.
Map 5 F3. Tel 6688- 8868. ∑ mbccs.com.sg Tel 6334-0168.
∑ heeren.com.sg
∑ marinabaysands. ∑ tiffany.com/
Holland Village com Clothes and locations
211 Holland Avenue. Fabrics
Tel 6465-0213. Sim Lim Square Shoes and Bags
∑ holland-village- 1 Rochor Canal Road. Chanel
Map 3 E4. 01-25 Ngee Ann City. Charles & Keith
singapore.com
Tel 6338-3859. Map 2 A4. 01-05 Wisma Atria, 435
ION Orchard Tel 6733-5120. Orchard Road.
Takashimaya Map 2 A4. Tel 6238-3312.
2 Orchard Turn. ∑ chanel.com
391 Orchard Road. ∑ charleskeith.com
Map 1 F2. Tel 6838-6520.
Map 2 A4. Tel 6738-1111. Emporio Armani
∑ ionorchard.com Fendi
∑ takashimaya-sin. B1-29/30 The Shoppes @
Isetan com Marina Bay Sands, 2 01-32 Ngee Ann City.
350 Orchard Road. Bayfront Avenue. Map 2 A4. Tel 6733-0337.
Tanglin Mall Map 5 F3. Tel 6304-1458. ∑ fendi.com
Map 1 F2. Tel 6733-1111.
163 Tanglin Road.
∑ isetan.com.sg Giordano Ferragamo
Map 1 E2. Tel 6736-4922.
290 Orchard Road.
Knightsbridge ∑ tanglinsc.com.sg B2-28 Ngee Ann City.
Map 2 A4. Map 1 F2. Tel 6738-3206.
270 Orchard Road. Tangs
Map 2 A4. Tel 6736-4302. Louis Vuitton
310/320 Orchard Road.
Tel 6593-6999. Gucci 01-20/24 Ngee Ann City,
Map 2 A3. Tel 6737-5500.
∑ knightsbridge.com. 01-40 Paragon, 290 391 Orchard Road.
∑ tangs.com.sg
sg Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
VivoCity Map 2 A4. Tel 6734-2528. Tel 6734-7760.
Marks & Spencer 1 Harbourfront Walk. ∑ louisvitton.com
501 Orchard Road. Map 1 Tel 6377-6870. Hugo Boss One of several branches
F2. Tel 6733-8122. ∑ vivocity.com.sg 01-03 Ngee Ann City, 391
On Pedder
∑ marksandspencer. Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
Takashimaya, 391
com Consumer Claims Tel 6735-0233.
Orchard Road. Map 2 A4.
Mustafa Center Consumers Max Tan 6 Scotts Road. Map 2 A3.
145 Syed Alwi Road. Association of Egg-ccessorize, Orchard ∑ onpedder.com.
Map 3 E2. Tel 6295-5855. Central, 181 Orchard road.
Singapore (CASE) Substance
∑ mustafa.com.sg Map 2 B4.
170 Ghim Moh Road. 02-12 Wheelock Place,
Tel 6100-0315. Mumbai Se 501 Orchard Road.
Ngee Ann City
∑ case.org.sg 02-03 Palais Renaissance, Map 1 F2. Tel 6836-0111.
391 Orchard Road.
390 Orchard Road.
Map 2 A4. Tel 6506-0461. Small Claims Tribunal
∑ ngeeanncity.com.sg 1 Havelock Square.
Map 1 F2. Tel 6733-7188. Antiques and
Map 4 C3. Vera Wang
Crafts
Parco Marina Bay
Tel 6435-5937. L1-29A, The Shoppes @ Amir & Sons
The Shoppes @ Marina
∑ smallclaims.gov.sg Marina Bay Sands, 2 Lucky Plaza,
Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Bayfront Avenue. 304 Orchard Road.
Avenue. Map 5 F3. Taxes and Map 5 F3. Tel 9759-8815. Map 1 F2. Tel 6734-9112.
Tel 6595-9100. Refunds
∑ parco.com.sg Jewelry Antiques of the
Changi International Orient
Park Mall Airport Bulgari 02-40 Tanglin Mall.
9 Penang Road. Map 2 C5. 50 Airport Boulevard. 02-1/3 Ngee Ann City. Map 1 D3.
Tel 6339-4031. Tel 6542-1122. Map 2 A4. Tel 6735-6689. Tel 6734 9351.
Raffles City Shopping ∑ changiairport.com. ∑ bulgari.com ∑ aoto.com.sg
Center Open 24 hours. Choo Yilin Lim’s Arts & Living
252 North Bridge Road. Electronic Tourist 331 Joo Chiat Road. Vivocity,
Map 5 E2. Tel 6338-7766. Refund Scheme Tel 6348-1010. 1 Harbourfront Walk.
∑ rafflescity.com ∑ customs.gov.sg ∑ chooyilin.com Tel 7652-1345.
Computers souvenir. A wide range of items

Funan Digitalife Mall, the main sporting the symbol is available,
computer shopping center in including coffee mugs, T-shirts,
Singapore, also claims to be the pendants, stuffed toys, musical
largest computer store in Asia. trinket boxes, china plates, key
Located between the Excelsior rings, and much more. There are
and Peninsula Hotels in the gift shops at most Singapore
Colonial Core, it has six floors national gardens and museums,
packed with shops selling which also offer an interesting
computers, software, and other collection of mementos.
electronic equipment. Prices Museum shops such as those at
here can be lower than the National Museum of
elsewhere and special deals Singapore offer an array of
Sim Lim Square, one of Singapore’s and offers are often available. products inspired by the
specialist electronics and computer malls Two popular computer shops collections on display. The
are Proton-Wisma Computers Gardens Shop at the Singapore
Electronic Goods and The Mac Shop at the Botanic Gardens (see pp246–7)
The absence of import duties Funan Center. Other good stocks an eclectic range of
makes Singapore one of the places to buy computers books on natural history. Raffles
most popular places to buy include Suntec City Mall and Hotel has the excellent Raffles
electronic gadgets. Several Sim Lim Square (see p255). As Hotel Gift Shop.
stores stock the latest high-tech with many stores, bargaining is For a very different experience,
audio-visual products. Latest an accepted practice. Sungei Road Thieves’ Market is
models are available at specialist Singapore’s oldest flea market,
centers such as The Sony stretching between Kelantan
Center. Sim Lim Square and Books and Music Road and Weld Road. In
Mustafa Center are the best for HMV has the most extensive Kampung Glam, The Heritage
music systems, televisions, and selection of music with over Shop specializes in objects from
DVD players. The Funan 200,000 CD titles. Separate yesteryear. It has thousands of
Digitalife Mall is good for audio floors are dedicated to collectibles for sale, mostly from
products. Make sure a world- different genres, including 1930s to 1960s Singapore.
wide guarantee is provided classical music, jazz, rock, and
and that your purchase is pop. MPH also has a good
compatible with the voltage selection. It is also popular for Orchids
system in your country. its excellent children’s books Orchids are the country’s
section. Japanese bookstore national flower and more than
Kinokuniya stocks a number 3,000 varieties of this exotic
Cameras and Watches of titles in several languages. flower are grown at the
Most electronics shops and They sell Chinese books and National Orchid Garden, part
dedicated camera shops stock also have a bargain section. of Singapore Botanic Gardens.
brands such as Nikon, Canon, Times the Bookstore is Every year new hybrids are
and Olympus. Cathay Photo another favorite. added to the collection. At the
Store and Mustafa Center have gift shop, orchids can be
a good range of all the popular packed and shipped home
camera brand names. The shops Singapore Memorabilia upon request. Toh Garden is an
also offer equipment for The ubiquitous Merlion, the orchid grower specializing
professional photographers. A half-fish, half-lion symbol of locally cultivated orchid hybrids
huge range of watches is Singapore, is the most popular and imported orchid genera.
available at most shopping
centers. Many companies such
as Rolex and Swatch have their
own outlets, while The Hour
Glass stocks an expensive
range, including the exquisite
Gerald Genta, De Bethune, and
steely Daniel Roth pieces. The
bustling Lucky Plaza is known
for cameras and watches.
Branded secondhand watches
can also be bought at Peng
Kwee. The Camera Workshop at
Peninsula Shopping Center sells
secondhand cameras and
collector’s models. Orchids can be shipped overseas for visitors by the National Orchid Garden
Unique gold-plated orchids can Little India can be used to flavor Chinatown has a delightful
be purchased at the RISIS Store curries and marinades. selection of teapots, cups,
on Orchard Road. Singaporean delicacies such as accessories, and fine teas for
kaya, a toast spread, and the sale. Brown Rice Paradise and
Hainan chicken-rice paste mix, Tierney’s Gourmet are also
Gourmet Food along with other ready-to-serve worth a visit. Handmade
Singapore is a renowned foods are available at all Bee chocolates and premium
gourmet destination and a Cheng Hiang outlets, Kee’s quality caviar are some of
number of specialty foods are Gourmet Boutique and the the gourmet foods from
available as gifts and souvenirs. Chinatown Heritage Centre around the world stocked at
Aromatic ground spices from (see p224). The Tea Chapter in Thos. S.B. Raffles.
DIRECTORY
Electronic Goods Swatch The Gardens Shop Chinatown Heritage
81-27 Plaza Singapura, Singapore Botanic Centre
Funan Digitalife Mall 68 Orchard Road. Gardens, 1 Cluny Road. 48 Pagoda Street.
109 North Bridge Road. Map 1 F2. Map 1 D1. Tel 6475-2319. Map 4 C3. Tel 6338-6877.
Map 3 E4. Tel 6336-8327. Tel 6334-8042. ∑ sbg.org.sg ∑ chinatown
∑ funan.com.sg ∑ swatch.com heritagecentre.sg
National Museum of
Mustafa Center Singapore The Tea Chapter
Computers 9–11 Neil Road, Tanjong
145 Syed Alwi Road. 93 Stamford Road.
Map 3 E3. Tel 6295-5855. The Mac Shop Pagar. Map 4 C4.
Map 3 D5. Tel 6336-3670.
∑ mustafa.com.sg 4–11 Funan Digitalife Tel 6226-3026.
∑ nationalmuseum.sg
Center. Map 5 D2. ∑ tea-chapter.com.sg
The Sony Center Raffles Hotel Gift
Tel 6334-1633. Thos. S.B. Raffles
02-28 to 37, 313 Somerset ∑ apple.com.sg Shop 01-30 Raffles Hotel
Road. Map 2 A4. 01-01 Raffles Hotel, 1
Proton-Wisma Arcade,1 Beach Road.
Tel 6634 9497. Beach Road. Map 3 E5. Map 3 E5.
∑ sony.com.sg Computers
Tel 6412-1143. Tel 6412-1148.
109 North Bridge Road.
∑ raffleshotelgifts.com ∑ raffleshotelgifts.com
Cameras and Map 3 E4. Tel 6338-3066.
Watches Sungei Road Thieves’ Tierney’s Gourmet
Books and Music Market 02-01/04 Serene Center,
Camera Workshop Sungei Road. Map 3 D4. 10 Jalan Serene.
HMV Tel 6466-7451.
Peninsula Shopping
6 Raffles Boulevard,
Center, 3 Coleman Street. Orchids
Marina Square. Map 5 F2.
Map 5 D2. Tel 6336-1956.
Tel 6733-1822. National Orchid
Cathay Photo Store ∑ hmv.com.sg Garden
6 Raffles Boulevard, Kinokuniya 1 Cluny Road. Map 1 D1.
Marina Square. Map 5 F2 03-10 Ngee Ann City, 391 Tel 6471-7361.
Tel 6339-6188. Orchard Road. Map 2 A4. ∑ sbg.org.sg
∑ cathayphoto.com.sg Tel 6737-5021. RISIS Store
The Hour Glass ∑ kinokuniya.com.sg
320 Orchard Rd.
290 Orchard Road. Map 2 One of several branches.
Map 2 A3. Tel 6835-2492.
A4. Tel 6735-6466. MPH ∑ risis.com
∑ thehourglass.com Raffles City Shopping
Toh Garden
Centre, 252 North Bridge
Lucky Plaza 11 Lorong Pasu.
Road. Map 5 E2. Tel 6336-
304 Orchard Road. Tel 6763-9186.
4232. ∑ mph.com.sg
Map 1 F2. Tel 6235-3294. ∑ tohgarden.com
∑ luckyplaza.com.sg Times the Bookstore
04-08 The Centrepoint, Gourmet Food
Peng Kwee 176 Orchard Road.
01-45A Peninsula Plaza, Map 1 F2. Tel 6734-9022. Bee Cheng Hiang
111 North Bridge Street. One of several branches. 1359 Serangoon Road.
Map 3 E4. Tel 6334-0155. Map 3 E1. Tel 6291-5753.
∑ 2ndhandwatch.com Singapore ∑ bch.com.sg
Memorabilia Brown Rice Paradise
Rolex
1-01 Tong Building, 302 The Heritage Shop 02-35 Tanglin Mall, 163
Orchard Road. Map 1 F2. 93 Jalan Sultan. Tanglin Road. Map 1 D3.
Tel 6737-9033. Map 3 F3. Tel 6738-1121.
∑ rolex.com Tel 6223-7982. ∑ mybrp.com.sg
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SINGAPORE
In its endeavor to become a regional center Performance venues are scattered through-
for the arts, Singapore delights visitors with a out the island, but among those that hold
diverse array of entertainment, ranging from pride of place are the Riverside Arts District,
classical to contemporary. Professional and the striking Esplanade – Theaters on the
amateur theater groups, dance troupes, and Bay, and the open-air Fort Canning Park.
orchestras offer Asian performances and Singaporeans love their nightlife and its
Western productions. The lively scene is increasingly eclectic mix of venues – jazz
enhanced by the presence of international clubs, blues bars, nightclubs, karaoke
artists, who come to participate in the many lounges, and traditional pubs – will be
arts festivals held throughout the year. sufficient to satisfy all tastes.
Information venues, such as the Esplanade, Festivals

Daily newspapers, such as such facilities have been provid- Singapore hosts several per-
The Straits Times carry ed. It is always best to call ahead forming arts festivals through-
comprehensive listings of and confirm. out the year. The riveting
current and upcoming events. Singapore Arts Festival, held
Brochures at hotels and free every August to September, is
publications including Where Venues one of the highlights, drawing
Singapore, Juice, and I-S Ever since its opening, both up-and-coming and well-
(Inside Singapore) also carry Esplanade – Theaters on the established acts from Singapore
detailed listings and reviews. Bay has been the focal point and all over the world. The
Internet websites such as for the performing arts, though Buskers’ Festival for street per-
www. singaporetheatre.com the elegant Chijmes Hall, formers is held on Sentosa every
are also an excellent resource Jubilee Hall, and Victoria September. The Singapore
for all the latest information, Theater & Concert Hall are still International Film Festival in
especially if you want to book traditional favorites for theater December, which screens about
tickets for an event in advance and musical performances. The 300 movies, has been held
of your trip. Shaw Foundation Symphony every year for over 15 years. It
Stage, perched on a lake at the showcases mainstream cinema,
Singapore Botanic Gardens, is a documentaries, and animation
Tickets popular outdoor venue. from around the world.
It is best to purchase tickets at Singapore Indoor Stadium, More recently, The Substation
least two days in advance at the the National Stadium, and has been organizing an alterna-
venue itself, though some the University Cultural Center tive Singapore Short Film
shows may be totally booked are preferred for large concerts, Festival in March. The most
out months ahead. Internet especially for international popular, and allegedly Asia’s
booking is now a convenient artists, while the DBS Arts largest, outdoor cinema festival
option. Gatecrash and SISTIC Center and The Substation is Films at the Fort every June
are two outlets that handle are for smaller, more intimate at the Fort Canning Park. The
tickets for most events. Check events and specialize in Singapore Piano Festival also
the schedules on their websites, more offbeat acts. draws crowds.
by telephone, or by visiting one
of their many locations across
the island. Tickets, once
purchased, are not usually
refundable or exchangeable. For
Indian cultural shows, the Anna-
lakshmi Restaurant hands out
free tickets.
Disabled Access
Although most entertainment
venues are located in heritage
buildings or renovated ware-
houses, several of them have
added disabled access. In newer Chijmes Hall, the restored chapel of a former convent, now a concert venue
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S I N G A P O R E 259
Free Performances and delightful event at Fort Singapore Botanic Gardens,

Open-Air Shows Canning Park. Classical music while street musicians often
Free events are held regularly concerts, including performances play by the Singapore River.
at Esplanade – Theaters on the by the Singapore Symphony Every Sunday, Chijmes has
Bay. A list of the frequently Orchestra, are held at the live music.
changing performances,
including world music and
drama, is available on their
website (see Directory). Indian
classical music and dance
shows, such as Bharatnatyam
and Odissi, are organized at
different venues by the Temple
of Fine Arts, a non-profit mak-
ing arts organization. Tickets for
shows hosted by Temple of
Fine Arts are also available at
Annalakshmi Restaurant. “Ballet
under the Stars”, organised by
Singapore Dance Theater, is a The Singapore Symphony Orchestra in concert, Botanic Gardens
DIRECTORY
Information Esplanade – Theaters University Cultural Singapore Dance
on the Bay Center Theater
Juice 1 Esplanade Drive, 50 Kent Ridge 2nd Story, Fort Canning
Tel 6733-1111. Crescent. Tel 6516-2492.
Marina Bay. Center, Cox Terrace.
∑ juiceonline.com ∑ nus.edu.sg
Map 5 E2. Map 5 D1.
The Straits Times Tel 6828-8222. Victoria Theater & Tel 6338-0611.
Tel 6319-5397. ∑ esplanade.com Concert Hall ∑ singaporedance
∑ straitstimes.com 9 Empress Place.
Jubilee Hall theatre.com
Map 5 D3.
Tickets Raffles Hotel. Tel 6338-8283. Singapore Symphony
Map 3 E5. ∑ nac.gov.sg Orchestra
Annalakshmi Tel 6412-1319.
Restaurant Victoria Concert Hall,
∑ raffles.com Festivals
133 New Bridge Road, 11 Empress Place.
B1-02 Chinatown Point.
National Stadium Buskers’ Festival Map 5 D3.
Tel 6339-9993. 2 Stadium Walk. ∑ singapore-buskers. Tel 6338-1230
∑ annalakshmi.
Tel 6653-8900. com ∑ sso.org.sg
com.sg ∑ sportshub.com.sg
Films at the Fort
Temple of Fine Arts
The Room Upstairs ∑ filmsatthefort.
Gatecrash 20 Havelock Road,
42 Waterloo Street. com.sg
∑ gatecrash.com.sg Central Square.
Map 3 D4. Singapore Arts
SISTIC Tel 6535-0509.
Tel 6837- 0842. Festival
Tel 6348-5555. ∑ templeoffinearts.
Tel 6345-8488.
∑ sistic.com.sg Shaw Foundation org
∑ nac.gov.sg
Several locations from Symphony Stage
Raffles City; Victoria Botanic Gardens, Singapore
Concert Hall Box Office. 1 Cluny Road. International Film
Map 1 D2. Festival
Venues Tel 6471-7361. ∑ filmfest.org.sg
∑ sbg.org.sg Singapore Piano
Chijmes Hall
Festival
30 Victoria Street. Singapore Indoor
∑ pianofestival.com.sg
Map 3 D5. Stadium
Tel 6334-3801. 2 Stadium Walk. Free
∑ chijmes.com.sg Tel 6344-2660. Performances and
DBS Arts Center The Substation Open-Air Shows
20 Merbau Road. 45 Armenian Street. Chijmes
Map 4 C2. Map 3 D5. 30 Victoria Street.
Tel 6733-8166. Tel 6337-7535. Map 3 D5. Tel 6336-1818.
∑ srt.com.sg ∑ substation.org ∑ chijmes.com.sg
Wayang (Chinese Opera) performance on an elaborate stage on Teochew street

Western Classical Music Temple of Fine Arts (see p259), armchair, blankets, lots of
and Dance as well as the Nrityalaya room and waitstaff serving you
The Singapore Symphony Aesthetics Society. food and drink. Art-house films
Orchestra (see p259) was in European languages are
founded in 1979 and performs screened by the Singapore
regularly at its home base, the Theater and Musicals Film Society at the Alliance
Esplanade, and the Victoria Singapore’s vibrant theater Française, or Goethe Institute.
Concert Hall. The concerts scene ranges from runaway The British Council organizes
often feature special guest Broadway and West End hits on regular shows of critically
conductors, composers, and international tour to local acclaimed movies. Films by
soloists. The Singapore Dance groups performing contem- young local directors such as
Theater (see p259), the state’s porary productions by local Royston Tan and Kelvin Tong
foremost dance company, playwrights. Well-known draw large audiences.
presents classic and contem- companies are the Action
porary Western ballet, while the Theater, Singapore Repertory
Odyssey Dance Theater and Theater, TheaterWorks, Toy Nightlife
Ecnad stage contemporary and Factory, and The Necessary The island has plenty to offer
fusion dance performances. Stage. While most productions visitors looking for bars and
are in English, albeit with an all- clubs. The three main destin-
Asian cast, vernacular Chinese ations for nightlife are Clarke
Chinese Opera, Malay dialects, as well as Malay and Quay, Boat Quay, and Dempsey
and Indian Music Tamil theater, are represented Hill. Swing to the blues and rock
Traditional Chinese opera, too. Troupes such as The Singa- and roll at Clarke Quay’s Crazy
or wayang, is a cultural street pore Stage Club, set up in 1945, Elephant and at Harry’s Bar on
event best seen during the with members from around the Boat Quay. Singapore’s first
Festival of the Hungry Ghosts world, perform pantomimes, Irish pub that plays Irish music,
(see pp206–7). The Chinese especially at Christmas. Molly Malone’s, is located by the
Opera Institute and the riverside. Brix on Orchard Road,
Chinese Theater Circle also Sa Vanh in Chinatown, and
stage a 2-hour opera every Cinema Tanjong Beach Club on Sentosa
Friday and Saturday, complete Most of the films shown in Island are a few of the favorite
with explanations. The Singapore are in English, with venues. The wine bars offer
Singapore Chinese Orchestra, Chinese subtitles. Other friendly service and intimate
the island’s only professional language films have both ambience. Most of them are
Chinese orchestra, plays Indian English and Chinese subtitles.
and Malay music as well as Hollywood blockbusters and
Chinese pieces. Indian films are extremely
For traditional Malay culture, popular and there are many
the Malay Heritage Centre multiplex cinemas to choose
(see p234) in Kampong Glam from, such as the Golden
often holds music and dance Village and Shaw Beach Road
performances – call the venue Cineplex. For a luxurious
for details. A rich repertoire experience, choose the “gold
of Indian classical dance and class” option: for around S$25 a Local rock band playing at the Crazy
music is presented by the ticket, you get a reclining Elephant
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S I N G A P O R E 261
located in renovated shop- Dance clubs are always packed for chilling out. Enter a futuristic
houses. Though all are fairly pop- and tend to play alternative world with trendy murals on
ular, the ones that attract the music – trance, progressive Phuture’s walls and enjoy all
most crowds are No. 5, the city’s trance, and garage. Kilo Lounge sorts of hip music, hip-hop,
first wine bar, which has a rustic is one of the more “underground” and drum ‘n’ bass at the club.
feel to it with unpolished wood- clubs in Singapore’s mainly Pangaea specializes in a range
en floors and Persian carpets; mainstream scene. For a mind- of music from electro, trance,
1-Altitude, one of the highest thumping dance night, Attica is and house to progressive. This
open-air bars in the world, and also one of the venues that top super-club hosts talented local
the busy KU DE TA. Karaoke the list of favorites. The trendy and international DJs. Check the
rooms (also known as KTV sta- Zouk complex houses Velvet website for more details.
tions) are hugely popular, and Underground and Phuture. The The majority of these clubs
even the smallest pub will fea- Velvet Underground has a main charge a cover price between
ture a karaoke station. dance floor and a separate bar S$20 and S$30.
DIRECTORY
Music and Dance Singapore Repertory Shaw Beach Road Molly Malone’s
Theater Cineplex 56 Circular Road.
Chinese Opera Shaw Tower, 100 Beach Map 5 D3.
DBS Arts Center, 20
Institute Road. Map 3 F4. Tel 6536-2029.
Merbau Road. Map 4 C2.
111 Middle Road. Tel 6738-0555. ∑ molly-malone.com
Tel 6733-8166. ∑ srt.
Map 3 D4. Tel 6339-1292. ∑ shaw.com.sg
com.sg No. 5
∑ www.coi.org.sg
One of several branches. 5 Emerald Hill.
Ecnad The Singapore
Stage Club Singapore Film Tel 6732-0818.
04–05 182 Cecil Street. Society ∑ no5.emerald-hill.
Map 5 D4. 203 Henderson Road.
03–01 Marina Leisureplex, com
Tel 6226-6772. Tel 6454-5200.
∑ stageclub.com 5A Raffles Avenue. Pangaea
∑ ecnad.org
Map 5 F2. Tel 90-170-160. Marina Bay Sands,
Malay Village TheaterWorks ∑ sfs.org.sg 1 Bayfront Avenue.
39 Geylang Road. 72–13 Mohamed Sultan Map 5 F3. Tel 8611-7013
Tel 6748-4700. Road. Map 2 B5. Nightlife ∑ pangaea.sg
Tel 6737-7213.
Nrityalaya Aesthetics 1-Altitude Sa Vanh
∑ theatreworks.org.sg
Society 1 Raffles Place. Map 5 D3 49 Club Street.
Stamford Arts Center, Toy Factory Tel 6438-0410 Map 4 C4.
155 Waterloo Street. 15 A Smith Street. Tel 6323-0145.
Attica
Map 3 D4. Tel 6336-6537. Map 4 C4. Tel 6222-1526.
∑ nas.org.sg
01-03 Clarke Quay, 3A Tanjong Beach Club
∑ toyfactory.org.sg
River Valley Road. 120 Tanjong Beach Walk,
Odyssey Dance Map 1 E4. Sentosa Island.
Theater
Cinema Tel 6333-9973. Tel 6270-1355.
04–04, 182 Cecil Street. Alliance Française ∑ attica.com.sg ∑ tanjongbeachclub.
Map 5 D4. 1 Sarkies Road. com
Brix
Tel 6221-5516. Map 2 A2. Grand Hyatt Singapore, Zouk, Velvet
∑ odysseydance-
Tel 6737-8422. 10 Scotts Road. Underground, and
theatre.com
∑ alliancefrancaise. Map 2 A3. Tel 6738-1234. Phuture
Singapore Chinese org.sg 17 Jiak Kim Street.
Crazy Elephant Tel 6738-2988.
Orchestra
British Council Clarke Quay, 3E River ∑ zoukclub.com
Singapore Conference
30 Napier Road. Valley Road. Map 1 E4.
Hall, 7 Shenton Way,.
Map 1 D2. Tel 6337-7859.
Map 5 D5. Tel 6440-3839.
Tel 6473-1111. ∑ crazyelephant.com
∑ sco.org.sg
∑ britishcouncil.org/sg Harry’s Bar
Theater and Goethe Institute 28 Boat Quay. Map 5 D3.
Musicals 136 Neil Road. Tel 6538-3029.
Tel 6735-4555. ∑ harrys.com.sg
Action Theater
42 Waterloo Street. ∑ goethe.de/ins/sg Kilo Lounge
Map 3 D4. Tel 6837-0842. Golden Village 66 Kampong Bugis.
∑ centre42.sg Marina Leisureplex, Raffles Tel 6467-3987
The Necessary Stage Avenue. Map 5 F2. KU DE TA
278 Marine Parade Road. Tel 1900 912-1234. Marina Bay Sands,
Tel 6440-8115. ∑ gv.com.sg 1 Bayfront Ave. Map 5 F3.
∑ necessary.org One of several branches. Tel 6688-7688.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN
SINGAPORE
Singapore is not only a place for shopping Park, and Sentosa. Ample cycling trails are
and dining, but also for a range of exciting provided around the outer reaches of
outdoor activities. Being a tropical island, the island and within its beautiful nature
all the favorite watersports such as diving, reserves. Golf and fitness activities are widely
sailing, water-skiing, and wakeboarding are enjoyed here. Tennis is also a popular sport
available throughout the year. The most but can be strenuous and it’s best to play
popular spots for these are the Kallang River early in the day. The tropical sun can be
located to the east of the city, East Coast strong, so adequate protection is required.
Sailing and Windsurfing
Most sailing and windsurfing
facilities are located on the east
coast of the island. Among
these are the Mana Mana
Beach Restaurant and Bar,
National Sailing Center, Marina
at Keppel Bay, Raffles Marina,
Republic of Singapore Yacht
Club, SAFRA Seasports Center,
and Changi Sailing Club, which
Golf driving range at East Coast Park offer various marine activities,
including sail boat charters
Golf explore local Singapore waters (permits may be required),
Singapore has a number of to longer dive tours and live- windsurf boards for hire, and
beautifully kept golf courses. aboard trips that cover popular boat berthing docks. Some hold
Visitors are permitted to play at dive spots off Malaysia’s east large regattas and many con-
most clubs, but only on week- coast, Thailand, or Indonesia’s duct training courses. Call or
days. However, the Seletar Riau Archipelago. For an check websites for details.
Country Club is open to non- exciting up-close encounter,
members on the weekends. you can also dive with the
The other popular golf clubs sharks at Underwater World on Adventure Sports Clubs
include Marina Bay Golf Sentosa (see p250). Singapore Adventurers’ Club
Course in the center of town, organizes a range of exciting
Sentosa Golf Club, and the activities such as trekking,
Raffles Country Club where Water-Skiing and cycling tours, canoeing, and
there is a spectacular view of Wakeboarding sailing. Most of its activities
the South China Sea. Several individual operators are open to all, with the excep-
rent out equipment and offer tion of a few members-only
professional instruction. The events. Intensive courses in
Diving facilities of the Cowabunga Ski kayaking, rock climbing, and
Singapore is one of the most Center are among the best in abseiling are offered all year
economical places in the Singapore. Seabreeze on round by Outward Bound
world for diving lessons. PADI Sentosa offers wakeboarding Singapore located at Pulau
(Professional Association of and wakesurfing lessons. Ubin and East Coast Park.
Diving Instructors) courses for
beginners as well as advanced
divers are available. There are
a number of reputable dive
schools to choose from,
including the Big Bubble
Center, Waikiki Dive Center,
Scuba Corner, Gill Divers, and
Friendly Waters Seasports
Services. Besides offering dive
lessons, most schools also rent
out equipment and organize
dive trips. These excursions
range from a day’s outing to Diving, a popular activity in SIngapore
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN SINGAPORE 263
Nature watch East Coast Park, bikes can be

Nature Society (Singapore) rented at the Sunsport Center.
organizes bird-watching trips The varied landscape of the
twice each month to various tracks at the Bukit Timah Nature
locations. Call or check its Reserve (see p244) offers a more
website for more details. In challenging experience, but you
addition, spotting the diverse will need to bring your own
species of animals, birds, and bike. Pulau Ubin (see p249) off
plants protected within the northeastern coast is a
Singapore’s stunning nature favorite cycling destination.
reserves can be a truly With its maze of trails, it is
rewarding experience. particularly good for mountain A game in progress at Singapore
biking. You can also combine Tennis Center
cycling with seeing the sights on
Cycling a Let’s Go Bike Singapore tour. Center, and Farrer Park Tennis
Cycling is an excellent way to Court. The Singapore Tennis
explore the attractions that lie Center offers one-on-one
outside Singapore’s city limits. Tennis coaching, and you can put your
Hiring a bike on Sentosa is a Tennis courts can be booked name on a partner list and hire a
good alternative to the island’s every day between 7am and court. An Instant Tennis course
monorail system. For a leisurely 10pm at various centers, such as for beginners is available at a
ride along the seashore of the the Kallang Squash and Tennis very reasonable fee.
DIRECTORY
Golf Scuba Corner National Sailing Nature Watch
Block 809 French Road. Center
Marina Bay Golf Map 3 F3. Tel 6338-6563. Nature Society
1500 East Coast Parkway.
Course ∑ scubacorner.com.sg (Singapore)
Map 5 F4. Tel 6444-4555. 02–05 The Sunflower,
80 Rhu Cross. Tel 6342-
5730. ∑ mbgc.com.sg
Waikiki Dive Center ∑ sailing.org.sg 510 Geylang Road.
Block 462, Crawford Lane.
Raffles Marina Tel 6741-2036.
Raffles Country Club Tel 6291-1290.
∑ nss.org.sg
450 Jalan Ahmad Ibrahim. ∑ waikikidive.com 10 Tuas West Drive.
Tel 6861-6888. Tel 6861-8000. ∑
Water-Skiing and Cycling
∑ rcc.org.sg rafflesmarina.com.sg
Wakeboarding Lets Go Bike
Seletar Country Club Republic of
101 Seletar Club Road, Cowabunga Ski Singapore
Singapore Yacht Club High Street Centre B1-58
Seletar Airbase. Center
52 West Coast Ferry Road. (Basement 1 Shop 58).
Tel 6481-4812. 10 Stadium Lane.
Tel 6344-8813. Tel 6768-9288. Tel 9004-4332.
∑ seletarclub.com.sg
∑ extreme.com.sg ∑ rsyc.org.sg ∑ letsgobike
Sentosa Golf Club singapore.com
27 Bukit Manis Road. SeaBreeze SAFRA Seasports
Tel 6275-0022. 36 Siloso Beach, Sentosa. Center Sunsport Center
∑ sentosagolf.com Tel 6376-4336. 10 Changi Coast Walk. East Coast Parkway.
∑ seabreeze.com.sg Map 5 F4. Tel 6440-9827.
Tel 6546-5880.
Diving ∑ nsrcc.com.sg
Sailing and Tennis
Big Bubble Center Windsurfing
57 Cantonment Road. Adventure Sports Farrer Park Tennis
Changi Sailing Club Clubs Court
Map 4 B4. Tel 6222-6862.
32 Netheravon Road. Rutland Road.
∑ bigbubble.com
Tel 6545-2876. Outward Bound Tel 6299-4166.
Friendly Waters ∑ csc.org.sg Singapore
Seasports Services 9 Stadium Link,
Kallang Squash and
Mana Mana Beach
01-36 The Riverwalk, Tennis Center
Restaurant and Bar Pulau Ubin.
20 Upper Circular Road. Stadium Road.
1212 East Coast Parkway. Tel 6545-9008.
Map 5 D3. Tel 6557-0016. Tel 6339-8878. Tel 6348-1291.
∑ obs.nyc.gov.sg
∑ friendlywaters. ∑ manamana.com Singapore Tennis
com.sg Singapore
Marina at Keppel Bay Center
Gill Divers Lot 1016 and 2003, Adventurers’ Club 1020 East Coast Parkway.
37B Hong Kong Street. Bukit Chermin Road. 74B Lorong 27, Geylang. Map 5 F4.
Map 5 D3. Tel 6734-9373. Tel 6270-6665. ∑ marina Tel 6749-0557. Tel 6442-5966.
∑ gilldivers.com keppelbay.com ∑ sac.org ∑ singtennis.org.sg
SINGAPORE STREET FINDER

The key map below shows the area of Major sights are also marked. A complete
Singapore covered in this Street Finder. index of street names and places of interest
Map references given for sights, shops, and shown on the maps follows on pages 270–
entertainment venues described in the 73. The first figure in the map reference
Singapore section of this guide refer to indicates which Street Finder map to turn
the maps on the following pages. Map to, and the letter and the number which
references are also given for Singapore follow refer to the grid on the map. The key,
hotels (see pp282–3) and restaurants (see below, indicates the scale of the maps and
pp299–301) recommended in the Where to other features marked on them, including
Stay and Where to Eat and Drink sections. post offices and tourist information centers.
0 meters 750
0 yards 750
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L SIANN
IRD
CL
A A
AL D Temple & Museum HILNG
H
ET
TH
TR
VE
E
SA L
EG
Outram Park
T
A
NUE
AN
N LA GO
CE
U
LL
NE
N
ER
AD
AY
CO
SO
SIA
UE
SK
MA Singapore
ER
DUXTON
RO
CA
NG
INE
EN
LI National
T
ST
V
RD
RO
Eye Center
LA
RD
BUK I T P A S O H R O A
ER
E
ONG SAIK
TE ROA
National
AD
E
R
CK D
PLAIN
I TA
O Blood
R
A
LIM
Singapore D
SP
D
NUE
A
T
Center
HO
General S
D
O Murray Street
A PARK R
VE
M
ND
Hospital N O
AD
L DR I VE HOS P ITA L A Food Alley

A
E R
CO
KE
TA
RO
T S
RS
SE
W
I
I
SP
FI
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G E
E
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GE N G N
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LA
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NT
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SP
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RA H
SEAH
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H PA R K
AV
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S I L AT
ST
WA LLIC H
ENUE
GAR
Maritime
AR
Tanjong
PECK
P O N G B A AD House
K A M RO Pagar
DEN
ET
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D
R K R OA D
PAG
ST
A
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AR
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RO
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A
S
BL
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PA G
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D
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PA G A R
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SP
PA
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C O N S E R VAT I O N
E
D
R
O
TANJ
O MAS Building
AREA
W SPOTTISWOODE KEE PA
Keppel SENG
IS
R
TT
Towers SI
PARK RD
N
SPO
K
LIN ENGGOR STREET
HOE CHIAN G ROAD
S
RK R O AD T
AD I
EN
ROISTR
PA
N
S POTTISW OODE M
A
PA R K ON
M
RAEBURN NT
CA LIM TECK KIM RD BERNAM STREET
AY Singapore IBM
ER Technologies
Building
RA
JAH
E X P R E S S W AY AY E R R A J A H E X P R E S S W AY
MO
Bugis
KI R K
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IA
T
NT H
U
SOP M
E
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E
Cathay R. I
TR
D
R
ROA D G Junction
A
IS
ST
D Building D
O
ST
PS
O
R
L
ET
N
P
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MacDonald AL
CH
SE
LE
RE
H
AY
A
ST
House
IR
IN
E
ST
BE
D
E
R
TA N
LA
R
LI
PR
O
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R
B R AS
T
A
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S
N
RL
C
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B AS AH G
E
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R
T
B
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PAR K
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E
A
E
H
E
R
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U
B ST
W
R
National
G
Singapore
ST
R
C ANNING R B
A Library H
I D
OA A Singapore Finance House
D IN
IG
ROAD
S Art Museum
IA
D
National ST
WA Bras B PU
H
R
C
B
LK
A
A Museum RV
O
Basah A CA IS
LL
T
PERC S R
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IC
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N
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T
AL
O
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V
Cathedral of the H
O
R
D
G
IC
ST
O
Shaw
A
Good Shepherd
AR
R RE
H
N
D
O ET Towers
EV
RISE
C
A
UL
Raffles
CO X T
A
D
Suntec
BO
Hotel
E
Chijmes
City
B
ER ST
R
ET
Peranakan A S.A.F.N.C.O.
RE
EK
A
Museum Club
CE
FO
ST
AS
Promenade
AN
M
Raffles City Suntec Singapore
D
NI
TE
Esplanade
T E
International
ME
QUARTER Armenian R Convention & Centennial

AR
M A S E K
Church A WAR Exhibition Center Tower
D MEMORIAL
Singapore City Hall R
D
PARK One Raffles A Millenia

CO FF
A
Philatelic Museum LE Pan Pacific

Link LE Walk
O
LINK
AN St. Andrew's S
AD
R
VE
ST
RE Cathedral
RO
A V E N U E
ET
RAF F L E S BOU
ET
Hill Street LEVARD

E
I
’S
Marina
G
LK
IV
Building
EW
RE
R
DR
UR BO
O Square
WA
I D
H
T
CO OM
DR
ST
A
DR
D IG
H
L
TH
R
PADANG
CO
L
AN
ST
IL
ABE
B
RE National
H
ET
ELIZ
T
GH
Gallery Victoria
IN
Singapore Flyer
DE
Singapore
SA
H
Theater RAFFLES AV 125 m

AU
EEN
AY
QU ENUE
T
& Concert Esplanade Theaters

T
QU
R
NN
Hall on the Bay

ANA
BENJAMIN SHEARES BRIDGE

UP
E
ET E
PE
RE IK
E
R
ST LLP
N
CI
CO
RC
R
HA
UL
NE EN
T
CA AR
Old Parliament Lim Bo Seng
LA AM
RP RD
S
EN House Memorial
LI
TE
ESPL
R
RS
PA
Sing a
HO TR
B O A T
ESPLANADE
NG EE
T
CIRC U LA R
KO PARK
NG
ST
RE Raffles
Asian S i n g a p o r e R i v e r
ET Civilisations
NO Landing Museum
p
Q U
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o
RO
H
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r
HONG
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The
A
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PARK L ver Fullerton

RO
SO
UT A D Singapore
EE E
PI H
STRORG
T
CK CA
NA UOB Plaza One Fullerton
ER LR
GE
IN D RO
G Wak Hai ERY A
D
CHU TT M a r i n a
D
REET
ST LIA BA
A
HO Cheng Bio ST
O
RAFFLES
MARKET STREET
KI Temple
PLACE
IP ST
EN
R
ST B a y Marina Bay
ET
NA C
PHIL
NK Sands
RE
IN
H
ST Raffles Place
U
ST
CH
Y
RC
IN MA LAC CA
KWA
C
PE
A
ST HEW
H
ET STR EET Ocean

KI
IN
ST
N
RE
CR Building
CH
RE
ST
ST
AR
O
SS
ET
ER
ST
T P
AY
RE ST R E E T
ET
AS
IL
K
LO
Bayfront
CO
TE
CE
ET
Telok Ayer
RE
Nagore
A
Hong
ST
A
ST
Durgha
U
Leong
EA
BO
T
Y
ON Building
Q
N
O
TA
AM
M
O
T
A
Thian Hock S T R E E Lau Pa
FR
R
S
IN
T
Y
Keng Temple
LE
Sat A
A
B
LV
D
RE Y
B
ST NLE
ET
Al-Abrar D
FF
A
A
Mosque
ST
ET
C
R
E GARDENS
ST
RE
N Downtown
N
Robina T
R
T E LOK AYER
R
ST
House A BY THE BAY

L
S
B
I N
L
LV
M A R I N A
CI
Shenton D
B
M
CE
House AR
S O U T H
O
T E LO K
NK
IN
R
AYER
A
LI
PARK
L
UE
EL
BO
(F
EN
W
UL
O
AX
EV
O
SA
AR
M
D
RE
D
A
AY
LL
EA
EY
SH
)
Temasek
M
Tower AX
N
W C
EL EN
LR
TO
O Marina
RK
AD TR
Bay
PA
A
L
EN
PR
A
I NC B
IN
EE LV
AR
D
SH
WA D
M
RD
RO
Hock Teck AD
See Temple
M E R R OA D
PAL
Street Finder Index

A Bras Basah Park 3 D5 Chijmes 3 D5, 5 E1 Draycott Drive 1 F1
continues 5 D1 Chin Chew Street 5 D3 continues 2 A3
A.A. Center 2 B5, 4 B1
Adis Road 2 C4
Bras Basah Road 3 D5 Chin Swee Road 4 B3 Draycott Park 1 F1
continues 5 D1 China Street 5 D3 Dublin Road 2 B4, 4 B1
Al-Abrar Mosque 5 D4
Albert Street 3 D4, 3 E4 British High Chinatown 4 C3 Dunearn Road 2 A1
Alexandra Canal 1 D4 Commission 1 D2 Chinatown Complex 4 C4 Dunlop Street 3 D3
continues 4 A2 Buckley Road 2 B1 Chinatown Heritage Duxton Plain Park 4 B4
Alexandra Road 1 D4 Buddha Tooth Relic Center 4 C3 Duxton Road 4 C4
Amoy Street 5 D4 Temple & Museum 4 C4 Chinatown Station 4 C4
Anderson Road 1 E1 Bugis Junction 3 E4 Chitty Road 3 E3 E

Angullia Park 1 F2, 1 F3 continues 5 E1 Choon Guan Street 4 C5 East Coast Parkway 5 F4
Ann Siang Hill 4 C4 Bugis Station 3 E4, 5 E1 Chulia Street 5 D3 Edinburgh Road 2 C3
Ann Siang Road 4 C4 Bugis Street 3 E4, 5 E1 Church Street 5 D3 Egyptian Embassy 1 E3
Anson Road 4 C5, 5 D5 Bukit Merah View 1 E5 Circular Road 5 D3 Elizabeth Link 2 A3
Anthony Road 2 A2 Bukit Pasoh Road 4 B4 City Hall Station 5 E2 Emerald Hill Road 2 B4
Arab Street 3 E4 Bukit Timah Road 2 A1 C.K. Tang 2 A3 Eminent Plaza 3 F2
Ardmore Park Drive 1 F1 continues 2 B2, 3 D3 Clarke Quay 4 C2 Empress Place 5 D3
Armenian Church 3 D5, Bukit Tunggal Road 2 A1 Claymore Drive 1 F2 Eng Cheong Tower 3 F3
5 D2 continues 2 B1 Claymore Hill 1 F2 Eng Hoon Street 4 A3
Armenian Street 3 D5 Claymore Road 1 F2 Enggor Street 4 C5
continues 5 D2
C Clemenceau Avenue 2 C4 Environment
Asia Gardens 4 B5 Cable Road 1 E4 continues 4 C1 Building 2 A2
Asian Civilisations Cairnhill Circle 2 A3 Clemenceau Avenue Erskine Road 4 C4
Museum 5 D3 Cairnhill Rise 2 B3 North 2 B2 Esplanade
Asimont Lane 2 A1 Cairnhill Road 2 A3 Clive Street 3 D3 Drive 5 E2, 5 E3
Australian High Cambridge Road 2 C2 Club Street 4 C4 Esplanade Park 5 E3
Commission 1 D2 continues 3 D1 Cluny Road 1 D1, 1 D2 Esplanade – Theaters
Ayer Rajah Camp Road 1 D2 Coleman Street 5 D2 on the Bay 5 E2
Expressway 4 A5 Canning Lane 4 C2 College Road 4 A4 Essex Road 2 C1
Canning Rise 2 C5, 5 D1 Colombo Court 5 D2 Eu Chin Street 4 A3
B Canning Road 4 C1 Colonial Quarter 4 C2 Eu Tong Sen Street 4 B4
Baboo Lane 3 D3 Canning Walk 2 C5 Colonial Quarter continues 5 D3
Bain Street 3 D5, 5 E1 Cantonment Link 4 B5 Marina South 5 D2 Evelyn Road 2 B1
Balestier Road 3 E1 Cantonment Road 4 B4 Comcenter 2 A4, 4 B1 Everton Park 4 B5
Balmoral Crescent 2 A2 Carlisle Road 2 C2, 3 D2 Concourse 3 F4 Exeter Road 2 A4, 4 B1
Balmoral Road 2 A1 Carpenter Street 5 D3 Connaught Drive 5 E2
Barker Road 2 A1 Caseen Street 4 B2 Cox Terrace 2 C5, 5 D1 F

Battery Road 5 E3 Cashin Street 3 D5, 5 E1 Craig Road 4 C4 Far East Plaza 2 A3
Beach Road 3 F4, 5 E1 Cathay Building 2 C4, 5 D1 Cross Street 4 C3, 5 D4 Far East Shopping
Beatty Road 3 E2 Cathedral of the Crown Prince Hotel 2 A4 Center 1 F2
Bencoolen Street 3 D4 Good Shepherd 3 D5, 5 D1 Cuff Road 3 D3 Farrer Park Fields 3 D2
continues 5 D1 Cavan Road 3 F2 Cumming Street 4 C3 Fernhill Close 1 E1
Bendemeer Road 3 F2 Cavenagh Road 2 B3 Cuppage Plaza 2 B4 Fernhill Crescent 1 E1
Benjamin Sheares Cecil Street 5 D4 Cuppage Road 2 B4 Fernhill Road 1 E1
Bridge 5 F3 Centennial Tower 3 F5, 5 F2 Cuscaden Road 1 E2 Finger Pier 5 D5
Bernam Street 4 C5 Center Tourism Court 1 E2 Cuscaden Walk 1 F2 First Hospital Avenue 4 A5
Bideford Road 2 A4 Centrepoint, The 2 B4 Flanders Square 3 E2
Birch Road 3 D2 Central Expressway 2 C2
D Foch Road 3 F2
Bishopsgate 1 E4 continues 3 D1, 4 A4 Delta Estate 1 E4, 4 A2 Fort Canning Park 2 C5
Blair Road 4 B5 Central Sikh Temple 3 F1 Delta Road 1 E4 continues 4 C1
Blanco Court 3 E4 Chancery Lane 2 A1 Derbyshire Road 2 C2 Fort Canning Road 2 C5
Boat Quay 5 D3 Chander Road 3 D3 Desker Road 3 E3 continues 4 C1, 5 D1
Boon Keng Road 3 F1 Chatsworth Avenue 1 D3 Devonshire Road 2 A4 Forum Galleria 1 F2
Boon Siew Building 2 C3 Chatsworth Park 1 D3 continues 4 B1 Four Seasons Park 1 F2
Boon Tat Street 5 D4 Chatsworth Road 1 D3 Dhoby Ghaut French Road 3 F3
Boon Tiong Road 1 F5 Chay Yan Street 4 A4 Station 2 C4, 4 C1 Fu Lu Shou Complex 3 E4
continues 4 A3 Chettiar Temple 2 B5, 4 C2 Dorset Road 3 D2 Fullerton Building 5 E3
SINGAPORE STREET FINDER 271
G Hong Lim Park 5 D3 Kampong Bahru 4 A5 Lincoln Road 2 B2
Ganges Avenue 1 F5 Hongkong Street 5 D3 Kampong Java Park 2 C2 Little India 3 D2
continues 4 A2 Hooper Road 2 C2 Kampong Java Road 2 B2 Little India Arcade 3 D3
Gentle Road 2 A1 Hoot Kiam Road 1 F3 Kapor Road 3 E3 Little India Station 3 D3
George Street 5 D3 Horne Road 3 F2 Kay Poh Road 1 F4 Lloyd Gardens 2 B5
Gilstead Road 2 B1, 2 B2 Hospital Drive 4 A5 Kee Seng Street 4 C5 continues 4 B1
Gleneagles Hospital 1 D2 Hotel Royal 2 B1 Kelantan Lane 3 E3 Lloyd Road 2 B5, 4 B1
Gleneagles Medical House of Tan Yeok Kelantan Road 3 E3 Lower Delta Road 1 E5
Center 1 D2 Nee 2 B4, 4 C1 Kellock Road 1 F4 Lucky Plaza 2 A3
Gloucester Road 3 D2 Hullet Road 2 B4 Kempas Road 3 F1

Keng Lee Road 2 B2 M
Golden Landmark
I Kent Road 3 D1 MacAlister Road 4 A4
Hotel 3 E4
Golden Mile Tower 3 F4 IBM 4 C5 Keong Saik Road 4 C4 MacDonald House 2 C4,
Goldhill Avenue 2 A1 Immigration Building 3 F3 Keppel Towers 4 C5 5 D1
Goldhill Center 2 C1 Indian High Khiang Guan Avenue 2 B1 MacKenzie Road 2 C3

Commission 2 A4, 4 A1 Killiney Road 2 A5 continues 3 D3
Goldhill Plaza 2 B1
Indus Road 1 F5 continues 4 B1 Main Gate Road 1 D2
Goldhill Rise 2 A1
ION Orchard 1 F2 Kim Cheng Street 4 A3 Malacca Street 5 D3
Goodwood Hill 2 A2
Irwell Bank Road 1 F3
Kim Seng Road 1 F4 Malay Heritage Centre 3 F4
Goodwood Park Hotel 2 A3
continues 4 A1 Malay Street 3 E4, 5 E1
Grand Hyatt continues 4 A1
Kim Seng Walk 1 F4 Malaysian High
Singapore 2 A3 Istana (President’s
continues 4 A2 Commission 1 E4
Grange Road 1 E3 Residence) 2 C3
Kim Yam Road 2 B5 Mandalay Road 3 D1
continues 2 A4, 4 A1 Istana Park 2 C4, 4 C1
continues 4 B1 Mandarin Orchard
Guan Chuan Street 4 A3
J King Georges Avenue 3 F3 Singapore 2 A4
H Jalan Arnap 1 E3
Kinta Road 3 D2 Marina Bay Station 5 E5
Kirk Terrace 2 C4 Marina Boulevard 5 F5
Hajjah Fatimah Jalan Besar 3 E3
continues 3 D4, 5 D1 Marina Gardens Drive 5 F5
Mosque 3 F4 Jalan Besar Plaza 3 E3
Kitchener Road 3 E2 Marina Square 5 F2
Halifax Road 2 C2 Jalan Besar Stadium 3 F2
KK Hospital 2 C3 Maritime House 4 B5
Hallpike Street 5 D3 Jalan Bukit Ho Swee 1 E5
KK Women’s & Market Street 5 D3
Hamilton Road 3 F2 continues 4 A3
Children’s Hospital 2 C2 Marne Road 3 E2
Hampshire Road 3 D3 Jalan Bukit Merah 4 A4
Klang Lane 3 D3 Martin Road 4 B2
Handy Road 2 C4 Jalan Jati 2 C1
Kramat Lane 2 B4 MAS Building 4 C5
continues 4 C1, 5 D1 Jalan Jintan 2 A3
Kreta Ayer Road 4 C4 Masjid Sultan 3 E4
Havelock Road 1 E5 Jalan Kayu Manis 2 A3 Kwan Im Tong Hood Maude Road 3 E3
continues 4 A2 Jalan Kelawar 1 E3 Che Temple 3 D4 Maxwell Link 5 D5
Havelock Square 4 C3 Jalan Korma 2 C1 Kwong Wai Shiu Maxwell Road 4 C4
Haw Par Glass Tower 2 C5, Jalan Kuala 2 A5, 4 A1 Hospital 3 E1 continues 5 D5
4 C1 Jalan Kubor 3 E3
McNair Road 3 E1
Heeren, The 2 A4 Jalan Lada Puteh 2 A3 L Merchant Loop 4 C2
Henderson Crescent 1 E5 Jalan Lembah Merchant Road 4 C3
Lady Hill Road 1 E1
Henderson Road 1 E5 Kallang 3 F1
Mergui Road
Lan Street 3 E4 3 D1
Hertford Road 2 C2 Jalan Minyak 4 B3
Middle Road
Lau Pa Sat 5 D4 3 D4
continues 3 D2 Jalan Rumbia 2 B5, 4 C1
Lavender Station 3 F3 continues 5 E1
High Commission of Jalan Sultan 3 F3
Lavender Street 3 F2 Middle Road Hospital 3 D4
Brunei Darussalam 1 D3 Jalan Tan Tock Seng 2 C1
Lengkok Angsa 1 F3 Millenia Walk 3 F5
High Street 5 D2 Jalan Tupai 1 E3
Lengkok Merak 1 E3 continues 5 F2
Hill Street 5 D2 Jellicoe Road 3 F3
Leong San See Minden Road 1 D2
Hill Street Building 5 D2 Jervois Lane 1 D4 Temple 3 E1 Ministry of Education
Hindoo Road 3 D3, 3 E3 Jervois Road 1 D4, 1 E4 Leonie Hill 1 F3, 4 A1 Teachers’ Network 1 F3
Hock Teck See Jiak Kim Street 4 A2 Leonie Hill Road 2 A5, 4 A1 Ministry of
Temple 5 D5 Joo Avenue 3 E1 Lermit Road 1 D1 Manpower 4 C3
Hoe Chiang Road 4 C5 Liane Road 1 D1 Mistri Road 4 C5
Hokien Street 5 D3
K Liang Seah Street 3 E5 Mohamed Sultan
Holt Road 1 E4 Kallang Avenue 3 F2 continues 5 E1 Road 2 B5
Hong Leong Kallang Bahru 3 F2 Lim Bo Seng continues 4 B2
Building 5 D4 Kallang Bahru Memorial 5 E3 Monk’s Hill Road 2 B2
Hong Lim Complex 3 F2 Lim Liak Street 4 A3 Monk’s Hill Terrace 2 B2
Complex 4 C3 Kallang Basin Estate 3 F1 Lim Teck Kim Road 4 C5 Mosque Street 4 C3
Moulmein Rise 2 C1 O Perak Road 3 D3 River Valley Road 1 E4

Moulmein Road 2 C1 Ocean Building 5 E4 Peranakan Museum 5 D2 continues 2 A5, 4 A1
Mount Echo Park 1 D4 Office Ring Road 1 D2 Peranakan Place 2 B4 continues 4 C2, 5 D2
Mount Elizabeth 2 A4 Old Parliament Percival Road 2 C5, 5 D1 Roberts Lane 3 D2
Mount Elizabeth House 5 D3

Perumal Road 3 E2 Robertson Quay 4 B2
Hospital 2 A3 Petain Road 3 E2 Robina House 5 D4

Oldham Lane 2 C4
Mount Emily 2 C3 Philip Street 5 D3 Robinson Road 5 D4, 5 D5
continues 4 C1
Pickering Street 5 D3 Rochalie Drive 1 D3
Mount Emily Park 2 C3 One Fullerton 5 E3
Plaza Singapura 2 C4 Rochor Canal 2 A2, 3 D4
Mount Rosie Road 2 A1 One Tree Hill 1 E3
continues 4 C1 Rochor Canal
Mount Sophia 2 C4 Ophir Road 3 E4, 5 F1
Prince Charles Road 3 D4, 3 E4
continues 5 D1 Orange Grove Road 1 E1
Crescent 1 D4 Rochor Center 3 E4
Murray Street Orchard Boulevard 1 E2
Prince Charles Rochor River 3 F3
Food Alley 4 C4 continues 2 A4
Square 1 D4 Rochor Road 3 E4, 5 F1
Mustafa Center 3 E2 Orchard Link 2 A4
Prince Edward Road 5 D5 Rodyk Street 4 B2
Muthuraman Orchard Plaza 2 B4
Prince Philip Avenue 1 D4 Rowell Road 3 E3
Chetty Road 4 B2 Orchard Point 2 B4
Rutland Road 3 D2
Prinsep Court 3 D4
Orchard Road 1 F2, 2 A4
N Prinsep Street 3 D4
continues 2 B4, 4 C1
continues 5 D1
S
continues 4 C2, 5 D1
Nagore Durgha 5 D4 Promenade 2 A4 S.A.F.N.C.O. Club 3 E5,
Nankin Street 5 D3
Orchard Station 1 E2
Purvis Street 3 E5 5 E2
Orchard Turn 2 A4
Nanson Road 4 B2 continues 5 E1 Sago Lane 4 C4
Ord Road 4 C2
Napier Road 1 D2 Sago Street 4 C4
Narayanan Chetty
Outram Park 4 B4 Q Saiboo Street 4 B2
Outram Park
Road 4 B2 Queen Elizabeth Saint Andrew’s
Station 4 B4
Nassim Hill 1 D2 Walk 5 E2 Cathedral 5 E2
Outram Road 4 A3
Nassim Road 1 D1 Queen Street 3 D5 Saint Andrew’s
Owen Road 3 D1
Nathan Road 1 E4 continues & 5 E1 Road 5 E2
Oxford Road 3 D2
National Gallery Saint Margaret’s
Oxley Garden 2 B5 R
Singapore 5 D2 School 2 C4
continues 4 C1
National Blood Center 4 B4 Race Course Lane 3 D2
Saint Martins Drive 1 E2
Oxley Rise 2 B4
Saint Thomas Walk 2 A5
National Library 3 D5, Race Course Road 3 D2
continues 4 C1
5 D1 continues 4 A1
Raeburn Park 4 A5
Oxley Road 2 B5
Sam Leong Road 3 E3
National Museum of Raffles Avenue 5 F2
continues 4 B1 San Center 4 B3
Singapore 3 D5, 5 D1 Raffles Boulevard 5 F2
Oxley Walk 2 B5 Sarkies Road 2 A2
National Skin Center 3 D1 Raffles City 3 D5, 5 E2
continues 4 C1 Saunders Road 2 B4
Neil Road 4 B5 Raffles Hospital 3 E4
Scotts Road 1 F2, 2 A3
New Bridge Road 4 B4 P Raffles Hotel 3 E5, 5 E1
Scotts Shopping
continues 5 D3 Raffles Landing
Padang 5 E2 Center 2 A3
New Park Hotel 3 E2 Site 5 D3
Pagoda Street 4 C3 Seah Street 3 E5, 5 E1
New World Park 3 E2 Raffles Link 5 E2
Palmer Road 5 D5 Second Hospital
Newton Circus Hawker Raffles Place 5 D3
Pan Pacific Hotel 5 F2 Avenue 4 B4
Center 2 B2 Raffles Place Station 5 D3
Paragon 2 A4 Selegie House 3 D4
Newton Road 2 B2 Raffles Quay 5 D4
Park Crescent 4 C3 Selegie Road 3 D4
Newton Station 2 B2
Raffles Quay Park 5 D4
Park Mall 2 C5, 4 C1
Rangoon Road 3 D1 Seng Poh Bird
Ngee Ann City 2 A4
Parliament Lane 5 D3 Rangoon Secondary Market 4 A3
Nicoll Highway 3 E5
Parsi Road 4 C5 School 3 E1 Seng Poh Lane 4 A3
continues 5 F1 Paterson Road 1 F3 Read Crescent 4 C3 Seng Poh Road 4 A3
Nile Road 1 F5 Pearl Bank 4 B4 Serangoon Plaza 3 E2
Read Street 4 C2
Niven Road 3 D4 Pearl’s Hill City Park 4 B3 Serangoon Road 3 E1
Redhill Close 1 D5
Norfolk Road 2 C2 Pearl’s Hill Terrace 4 C4 Shanghai Road 1 E4
Redhill Road 1 D5
Norris Road 3 D3 Peck Hay Road 2 A3 Redhill Station 1 D5 Shangri-La Hotel 1 E1
North Bridge Road 3 E4 Peck Seah Street 4 C5 Republic Avenue 3 F5 Shaw Towers 3 E5, 5 E1
continues 3 E5, 5 E1 Pekin Street 5 D3 Republic Boulevard 3 F5 Shenton House 5 D4
North Canal Road 5 D3 Penang Lane 2 C5, 4 C1 Ridley Park 1 D3 Shenton Way 5 D5
Northumberland Penang Road 2 B4, 4 C1 River Valley Close 2 A5 Sheraton Towers
Road 3 D3 Penhas Road 3 F3 continues 4 B2 Singapore 2 A2
Novena Station 2 C1 People’s Park River Valley Grove 2 A5 Sherwood Road 1 D2
Nutmeg Road 2 A3 Complex 4 C3 continues 4 A1 Short Street 3 D4
SINGAPORE STREET FINDER 273
Shrewsbury Road 2 C1 Suntec Singapore Tiong Bahru Station 1 F5 Y

continues 3 D1 International Tiong Poh Road 4 A4 Yan Kit Road 4 C5
Silat Avenue 4 A5 Convention & continues & 4 A3 York Hill Estate 4 A3
Sing Avenue 3 E2 Exhibition Center 3 E5, Tiverton Lane 2 A4
Singapore Art 5 F2 continues 4 B1 Z
Museum 3 D5, Surrey Road 2 B1 Tomlinson Road 1 E2
Zhujiao Center 3 D3
5 D1 Swan Lake 1 D2 Tong Building 2 A4
Zion Close 1 F4, 4 A2
Singapore Botanic Syed Alwi Road 3 E3 Tong Watt Road 2 B5
Zion Road 1 F4, 4 A2
Gardens 1 D1 continues 4 B2
Singapore Council of Social T Towner Road 3 E1
Services 2 C5, 4 C1 Taman Serasi 1 D2 Tras Street 4 C5
Singapore Finance Tan Boon Liat Trengganu Street 4 C4
House 3 E5, 5 E1 Building 4 A3 Tronoh Road 3 F1
Singapore General Tan Quee Lan Street 3 E4 Truro Road 3 D2
Hospital 4 A4 continues 5 E1 Tyrwhitt Road 3 E3
Singapore Indian Fine Tan Tock Seng
Arts Society 3 D2 Hospital 2 C1
U
Singapore National Tan Tye Place 4 C2 United Square 2 C1
Eye Center 4 B4 Tanglin Golf Course 1 D2 Unity Street 4 C2
Singapore Philatelic Tanglin Hill 1 D3 UOB Plaza 5 D3
Museum 2 C5, 5 D2 Tanglin Mall 1 E2 UOL Building 2 A4
Singapore Railway Tanglin Rise 1 D3 Upper Circular Rd 5 D3
Station 4 B5 Tanglin Road 1 D3 Upper Cross Street 4 C3
Singapore River 4 B2 Tanglin Walk 1 D3 Upper Dickson Road 3 D3
continues 5 D3 Tanjong Pagar 4 C5 Upper Hokien Street 4 C3
Singapore School Tanjong Pagar Upper North Canal
for the Deaf 1 D4 Conservation Area 4 B5 Road 4 C3
Singapore Technologies Tanjong Pagar Upper Weld Road 3 E3
Building 4 C5
Road 4 C5 Upper Wilkie
Smith Street 4 C4
Tanjong Pagar Road 2 C3, 2 C4
Somerset Road 2 A4
Station 4 C5 United States of America
Somerset Station 2 B4
Tank Road 2 B5, 4 C2 Embassy 1 D2
Sophia Road 2 C4
Teck Guan Street 4 C2
South Bridge Road 4 C4,
Teck Lim Road 4 C4 V
5 D3
Tekka Center 3 D3 Veerasamy Road 3 D3
South Canal Road 5 D3
Telok Ayer Park 5 D4 Verdun Road 3 E2
Spooner Road 4 A5
Telok Ayer Street 5 D4 Victoria Lane 3 E3
Spottiswoode Park 4 B5
Temasek Avenue 3 F5 Victoria Street 3 D5, 5 E1
Spottiswoode Park continues 5 F2
Victoria Theater
Road 4 B5
Temasek Boulevard 3 E5
& Concert Hall 5 E2
Sri Krishnan Temple 3 D4
continues 5 F2
Viking Road 1 D5
Sri Mariamman Temasek Tower 5 D5
Temple 4 C4 Temasek W
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Polytechnic 5 D5
Temple 3 E2 Wak Hai Cheng
Temasek Polytechnic
Sri Temasek 2 B4 Bio Temple 5 D3
(former) 1 F3
Sri Veeramakaliamman Wallich Street 4 C5
Temasek Tower 5 D5
Temple 3 D3 Temple Street 4 C4
War Memorial Park 3 E5
Stamford Road 3 D5 Terminal Avenue 5 D5 continues 5 E2
continues 5 F2 Tessensohn Road 3 C2 Waterloo Street 3 D4
Stanley Street 5 D4 Tew Chew Street 4 C3 continues 5 D1
Starlight Road 3 D2 Thian Hock Keng Wee Nam Road 2 B2
Stevens Road 1 F1 Temple 5 D4 Weld Road 3 E3
Sturdee Road 3 E2, 3 F2 Third Hospital Whampoa West 3 F1
Subordinate Courts 4 C3 Avenue 4 A4 Wheelock Place 1 F2
Suffolk Road 2 C2 Thomson Road 2 B1 Wilkie Road 2 C4
Sultan Plaza 3 F4 Times House 1 F4, 4 A1 Winstedt Road 2 B2
Sungei Road 3 D3, 3 E4 Tiong Bahru Plaza 1 E5 Wisma Atria Shopping
Sungei Whompoe 3 F1 Tiong Bahru Road 1 D5 Center 2 A4
Suntec City Mall 3 E5, 5 F1 continues 4 A3 Wisma Indonesia 1 E3
TRAVELERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 276–283
Where to Eat and Drink 284–301
Shopping in Malaysia 302–307
Entertainment in
Malaysia 308–311
Outdoor Activities in
Malaysia 312–317
276 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Both Malaysia and Singapore offer a variety Budget travelers will find excellent guest-
of accommodations, from luxury hotels houses and hostels offering dormitory beds,
to simple guesthouses. Prices are fairly and, in some parts of the country, homestays
reasonable, although Malaysian Borneo and can be arranged. An overnight stay in a
Singapore tend to be more expensive than longhouse is a wonderful way to experience
Peninsular Malaysia. Top international hotel Dayak culture. Malaysia’s national parks
chains are well-represented, and there are provide cabins and campsites, making it
some beautiful resorts in idyllic settings. possible to stay in the heart of the rain forest.
Mid-range options include some lovely For more information, refer to the detailed
boutique hotels and locally run chains. listings on pages 278–83.
where colonial history marries that are both economical and

luxury, such as the Majestic in often, a good source of local
Melaka (see p280) and Raffles in information. While facilities are
Singapore (see p283), makes for basic, some include free
a memorable experience. breakfast and Internet access.
Homestays are becoming
popular, offering an opportunity
Mid-Range Hotels to get to know Malaysians
As international chains have outside the tourist industry. The
moved into the region, some local tourist offices always have
mid-range hotels with excelllent a list of homestay programs.
facilities have had to reduce Singapore has a number of
their prices in order to compete, award-winning hostels with
and now provide very good excellent facilities.
Immaculate old-world simplicity at the value for money. This category
upscale Raffles in Singapore (p283) includes boutique hotels, which
focus on generating an exotic Longhouses
and relaxing ambience. They are Travelers to Malaysian Borneo,
Ratings usually more intimate than the particularly Sarawak, can
Top- and mid-range hotels are chain hotels, and can offer experience a night in a long-
accredited with star ratings personalized services. Budget house, the traditional dwelling of
according to the level of luxury, accommodation has long been many indigenous groups, such as
facilities, and services they offer available in shophouses (see p32), the Bidayuh (see p167) and the
but guesthouses have no such but there is a growing trend for Iban (see p173). Most visitors to
ratings. While these ratings help converting these into boutique longhouses organize their trips
in selecting accommodations, hotels, creating attractive through tour agents, such as
it is wise to visit the official options for a heritage stay. Borneo Adventure (see p317) and
websites of individual hotels Sabah Tourism Board (see p323),
to check what they offer. who arrange stays at working
Budget Hotels and longhouses. Facilities are
Guesthouses generally very basic, consisting of
International and Resort All Malaysian cities and towns little more than a floor mattress
Hotels have budget hotels and and mosquito net, although
Several of the world’s best- guesthouses in tourist areas some longhouses have now
known international hotel
chains are represented in
Malaysia and Singapore, offering
luxurious rooms and impeccable
service. Many incorporate
features of local architecture in
an effort to make their rooms
more personal. The resorts, set
in beautiful surroundings, have
spas, watersports and fitness
facilities, golf courses, and a
range of shops, restaurants, and
bars, giving guests no reason to
step out of the resort during
their stay. Staying at hotels Live music to accompany sundowners at The Majestic in Melaka (p280)
Traditional kite-making at Khota Baru
W H E R E TO S TAY 277
Special Needs
Apart from top-end hotels, few
places offer special facilities for
the disabled in Malaysia or
Singapore (see p322). For the
mobility impaired, facilities are
limited to ramps and elevators.
Some five-star hotels have
wheelchair-user-friendly rooms.
Recommended Hotels
The hotels listed on pages 278–
Lavish suite accommodations at the Mulu Marriott Resort & Spa (p282) 83 reflect the main types of
accommodations in Malaysia,
installed Western-style toilets to Hidden Costs Borneo, and Singapore. Prices
make the stay a little more Most budget and mid-range are given in Malaysian ringgit,
comfortable for their guests. hotels quote net prices that Singapore dollar, or Brunei dollar,
include all taxes. However, top- which is equal in value to the
end hotels in Malaysia display a Singapore dollar, as appropriate.
National Parks and price amount with the symbol Modern hotels range from
Camping “++” after the rate, which means five-star to budget. Resorts,
National Parks and preserves that 10 percent service charge which are frequently in the mid-
throughout Malaysia offer and 6 percent government tax or top price range, are usually in
reasonably comfortable lodges will be added to it. In Singapore, coastal areas or nestled in the
or cabin-style huts, usually this symbol becomes “+++”, rain forest. Boutique hotels are
located around the park’s which refers to 10 percent service small and intimate, often in
headquarters. They also have charge, 17 percent Goods and beautifully restored colonial
campsites where visitors may Services Tax, and 1 percent buildings. Beach hotels are
rent a tent or pitch their own, government tax. Food and usually in the lower price
including on beaches, but the beverage items in luxury hotels category. Guesthouses tend to
facilities are basic. For and restaurants also have taxes be inexpensive, and are often
information, bookings, and and service charges added on. family-run, while hostels cater to
permits, contact the Asia’s plethora of backpackers.
Department of Wildlife and Self-catering accommodation is
National Parks, Sarawak Traveling with Kids in serviced apartments, always
Forestry Corporation, and Hotel staff in both Malaysia and available in the capital cities,
Sabah National Parks. Singapore tend to indulge while at historic hotels colonial
younger guests. Even at basic history meets luxury.
hotels, under-12s can often stay The establishments
Rates and Reservations for free in their parents’ room. highlighted as DK Choices offer
Room rates tend to remain Not all hotels have playgrounds something particularly special,
steady through the year, and other special facilities for such as a beautiful setting, eco-
increasing only during festivals kids, but most are very flexible friendly credentials, excellent
such as Hari Raya Puasa, Chinese about providing extra beds in service and facilities, or a
New Year (see pp34–5), and rooms and special meals. Cots combination of these.
Christmas, when all types of and high chairs are available
accommodations fill up and with some notice. Some resort DIRECTORY
advance booking becomes hotels organize activities for kids
necessary. At quieter times, and offer babysitting services. National Parks and
especially during the monsoon Camping
season between November and
Department of Wildlife and
February, rates drop significantly National Parks
and discounts can be obtained Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 9086-
on the east coast. Prior reserva- 6800. ∑ wildlife.gov.my
tions are essential at top-end
hotels for the best prices. Note Sabah National Parks
that hotel and guesthouse prices Kota Kinabalu. Tel (088) 523-500.
are substantially higher in Kuala ∑ sabahparks.org.my
Lumpur than in the rest of Sarawak Forestry
Malaysia. Hotels in Singapore are Corporation
more expensive still, with prices Kuching. Tel (082) 610-088.
similar to what you’d expect to Cabin-style huts at the Sepilok Nature ∑ sarawakforestry.com
pay in the West. Resort, Sabah (p282)
Places to Stay
Anggun Boutique Hotel  Price Guide
Kuala Lumpur Boutique Map 5 B2 Prices are based on one night's stay in
7 & 9 Tengkat Tong Shin high season for a standard double room,
KLCC Tel (03) 2145-8003 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Mandarin Oriental  ∑ anggunkl.com /$ up to RM/$120
Modern Map 2 F5 Pretty rooms with antique /$$ RM/$120 to RM/$300
Kuala Lumpur City Center furnishings overlook an interior /$$$ over RM/$300
Tel (03) 2380-8888 courtyard with a fishpond.
∑ mandarinoriental.com
Right by the Petronas Towers, this Fraser Place  Chow Kit and
hotel has a luxury spa, pools, Modern Little India
tennis courts, and top restaurants. Lot 163, 10 Jalan Perak
Tel (03) 2118-6288 Crossroads Hotel 
Traders Hotel  ∑ kualalumpur.fraserhospitality. Modern Map 1 B2
Modern Map 2 F5 com 1 Jalan Raja Muda Abdul Aziz
Kuala Lumpur City Center Stylish highrise rooms have floor- Tel (03) 2698-7000
Tel (03) 2332-9888 to-ceiling windows. There’s a ∑ crossroads-hotel.com
∑ shangri-la.com/kualalumpur/ gym and rooftop infinity pool. Just a short walk from Chow Kit
traders Market, this hotel has spotless
The elegant rooms have great Hotel Maya  rooms with dark furnishings.
views of the city’s skyline, as does Modern Map 1 C5
the trendy 33rd floor Sky Bar. 138 Jalan Ampang
Tel (03) 2711-8866 Chinatown
∑ hotelmaya.com.my Back Home 
Bukit Bintang and the Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling Hostel Map 4 F2
Golden Triangle glass panels and great city views. 30 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee
There’s a hydrotherapy pool and Tel (03) 2022-0788
Classic Inn  gym, as well as yoga classes. ∑ backhome.com.my
Modern Map 5 C3 Modern rooms featuring open
36 Jalan 1/77a, Changkat Thambi brick walls and hardwood floors
Dollah DK Choice give onto an interior courtyard
Tel (03) 2148-8648 Villa Samadhi  with coffee tables.
∑ classicinn.com.my Boutique
In a colonial-style building, rooms 8 Jalan Madge The Explorers Guesthouse 
are welcoming and there’s a café. Tel (03) 2143-2300 Hostel Map 4 F3
∑ villasamadhi.com.my 128 & 130 Jalan Tun H.S. Lee
Orange Pekoe Guesthouse  This luxurious hotel has Tel (03) 2022-2928
Modern designer Asian furnishings in ∑ theexplorersguesthouse.com
1-1 Jalan Angsoka individually styled rooms. The The lobby area features a
Tel (03) 2110-2000 Sarang rooms have private peaceful water feature and
∑ orangepekoe.com.my plunge pools, while the dream-catchers, while the small
Comfortable rooms, friendly staff, spacious ground-level rooms cosy rooms are spic-and-span.
a veranda, and communal lounge have private balconies with
with cable TV feature here. direct access to the lagoon Swiss Inn 
pool. Great Western breakfasts. Modern Map 4 F3
Rainforest Bed & Breakfast  62 Jalan Sultan
Guesthouse Tel (03) 2072-3333
27 Jalan Mesui ∑ swissgarden.com
Tel (03) 2145-3525 This hotel has rooms with hip,
∑ rainforestbnbhotel.com bright designs over seven floors.
This welcoming place bursts with
greenery in jungle lodge style. The
cosy rooms feature solid furniture. DK Choice
Hotel Majestic 
Dorsett Regency  Historic Map 4 E4
Modern Map 5 C3 5 Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin
172 Jalan Imbi Tel (03) 2785-8000
Tel (03) 2716-1000 ∑ majestickl.com
∑ dorsettregency.com In a stunning 1930s restored
Some of the rooms in this tower building, Hotel Majestic bursts
block have great city views; with colonial charm. The
there’s a pool, too. sumptuously decorated suites
in the Majestic Wing have butler
The Mesui Hotel  service. The Art Deco-style,
Modern 15-story Tower Wing has deluxe
9 Jalan Mesui rooms and suites. Facilities
Tel (03) 2144-8188 include two swimming pools, a
∑ themesuihotel.com spa, a barbershop, and a movie
Retro furnishings add ‘70s style. Traditional thatch roofing and hanging screening room.
Rooms have quirky wall designs. lanterns at Villa Samadhi, Kuala Lumpur
Northwest Peninsula
ALOR STAR: Holiday Villa 
Modern
Lot 162, 163 Jalan Tunku Ibrahim
Tel (04) 734-9999
∑ holidayvillaalorsetar.com
Suited to both business and
leisure travelers, this hotel has
restaurants, a pool, and a spa.
CAMERON HIGHLANDS:
Father’s Guest House 
Hostel
4 Jalan Mentigi
Tel (016) 566-1111
∑ fathers.cameronhighlands.com
Rooms are modern with good Relaxed home-from-home atmosphere at 23 Love Lane, Penang
facilities. The staff organize
guided treks and tours. PULAU LANGKAWI:
DK Choice The Danna 
CAMERON HIGHLANDS: PENANG:: 23 Love Lane  Beach Hotel
Smokehouse Hotel  Boutique Telaga Harbour Park, Pantai Kok
Historic 23 Love Lane, Georgetown Tel (04) 959-3288
Next to the golf course in Tanah Rata Tel (04) 262 1323 ∑ thedanna.com
Tel (05) 491-1215 ∑ 23lovelane.com A grand marbled lobby and beach-
∑ smokehousehotel.com In a lovingly restored colonial- side infinity pool complement
Evoking the colonial era amid lush era villa, 23 Love Lane has the lavish, spacious rooms.
greenery, this is the classiest place eclectic, elegant decor and lush,
to stay in the Cameron Highlands. restful gardens; the feel is of an TAIPING: Sentosa Villa 
expansive family home rather Resort
FRASER’S HILL: Puncak Inn  than a hotel. Breakfast is served Jalan 8, Taman Sentosa
Modern in their adjacent restaurant. Tel (05) 805-1000
Jalan Genting ∑ sentosa-villa.com
Tel (09) 362-2007 This compound with a rustic
This homey hotel has plainly PENANG: E & O  hideaway feel has rooms and
furnished but comfortable rooms. Historic mini-villas. There is a cool stream
10 Lebuh Farquhar for swimming in.
IPOH: D’Eastern Hotel  Tel (04) 222-2000
Modern ∑ eohotels.com
118 Jalan Sultan Idris Shah Enjoy colonial splendor and
Tel (05) 254-3936 butler service at Penang’s grande Southern Peninsula
The simply decorated en-suite dame of hotels (see p111).
rooms are very spacious. JOHOR BAHRU:
PULAU LANGKAWI: Renaissance 
IPOH: French Hotel  Sunset Beach Resort  Modern
Modern Beach Hotel 2 Jalan Permas 11
60 & 62 Jalan Dato Onn Jaafar Jalan Pantai Tengah Tel (07) 381-3333
Tel (05) 241-3030 Tel (04) 955-1751 ∑ marriott.com/hotels
∑ frenchhotel.com.my ∑ sungroup-langkawi.com State-of-the-art facilities, includ-
This compact, centrally located Cosy rooms in warm hues are set ing a spa, fitness center, and pool,
hotel boasts chic touches and in lush grounds planted with feature at this five-star hotel.
great breakfasts; exceptional value. ferns and scented plumeria trees.
MELAKA:
PANGKOR: Anjungan  Wayfarer Guesthouse 
Beach Hotel DK Choice Guesthouse
6610 Nipah Bay PULAU LANGKAWI: Bon Ton/ 104 Lorong Hang Jebat
Tel (05) 685-1500 Temple Tree  Tel (06) 281-9469
∑ anjunganresortpangkor.com Resorts ∑ wayfarermelaka.com
Rooms are set around a boat- Pantai Cenang, 1 mile (2 km) Rooms in this former rubber-
shaped swimming pool with the north of main beach area trading house are spacious; some
beach just across the road. Tel (04) 955-1688 have beautiful views of the river.
∑ bontonresort.com.my;
PENANG: templetree.com.my MELAKA: 45 Lekiu 
Old Penang Guest House  These two idyllic resorts feature Serviced Apartment
Hostel vintage timber houses that 45 Jalan Hang Lekiu
53 Love Lane, Georgetown have been fully restored; some Tel (012) 698-4917
Tel (04) 263-8805 sleep two, others a family. Both ∑ 45lekiu.com
∑ oldpenang.com resorts sit in landscaped This stylish two-floor apartment
A slickly renovated shophouse grounds with palm trees, a has sleek furnishings, its own
with rooms and dorms, as well as swimming pool, and restaurant. pool, and a rooftop terrace with
an airy downstairs lounge. lovely views over the city.
For more information on types of hotels see pp276–7
KOTA BHARU:
DK Choice Renaissance 
MELAKA: The Modern
Majestic  Kota Sri Mutiara, Jalan Sultan Yahya
Historic Petra
188 Jalan Bunga Raya Tel (09) 746-2233
Tel (06) 289-8000 ∑ marriott.com
∑ majesticmalacca.com This luxurious hotel has an
Set in a stunning 1920s mansion, attractive pool, spa, and gym, as
this hotel offers sumptuous well as two restaurants.
rooms with teakwood fittings
and rolltop baths. Indulgent spa KUALA TERENGGANU: Duyong
therapies are based on the Marina & Resort 
healing heritage of the Modern
Peranakans. The restaurant Pulau Duyong
offers traditional local cuisine. Tel (09) 627-7888
∑ duyongmarinaresort.com
Comfortable wooden chalets, a
MELAKA: swimming pool, and a restaurant
The Opposite Place  The Majestic in Melaka, incorporating overlook the river at this resort.
Boutique influences from Peranakan culture
18 Jalan Hang Lekiu KUANTAN:
Tel (016) 274-9686 SERIBUAT ARCHIPELAGO: Hyatt Regency 
∑ opposite-place.com Rimba Beach Resort  Modern
This hotel has just two stylish Resort Jalan Telok Chempedak
individually designed suites. The Pulau Sibu Tel (09) 518-1234
café serves superb Western dishes. Tel (012) 710-6855 ∑ kuantan.regency.hyatt.com
∑ resortmalaysia.com An upmarket beach retreat with
PULAU TIOMAN: Rustic beach chalets are shaded a gym, tennis and squash courts,
Japamala Resort & Spa  by palm trees at this laid-back two pools, restaurants, and a bar.
Resort resort with a young clientele.
Kampung Lanting, north of Nipah PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Mama’s
Tel (07) 419-7777 SRI MENANTI: Sri Menanti Chalet 
∑ japamalaresorts.com Resort  Beach Hotel
Nestled amid tropical rain forest, Modern Lot 137, Kg. Seberang Genting,
this exclusive eco-luxe resort Pekan Sri Menanti Perhentian Besar
offers Malay village-style villas. Tel (06) 497-0049 Tel (09) 690-4600
Right by the Istana Lama, this ∑ mamaschalet.com.my
PULAU TIOMAN: whitewashed hotel offers rooms The chalets, some sea-facing,
Tunamaya Resort  and chalets around a pool. have private facilities; there’s also
Resort a restaurant.
Lots 20 & 21, Kampung Mukut
Tel (07) 798-8108 PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Bubbles
∑ tunamayaresort.com Eastern and Central Dive Resort 
Contemporary villas have modern Peninsula Resort
amenities and garden or sea views; Tanjung Tukas, Perhentian Besar
there’s a spa, pool, and dive center. CHERATING: Tanjung Inn  Tel (012) 983-8038
Beach Hotel ∑ bubblesdc.com
11 Jln Kuantan Kememan A friendly resort, Bubbles has its
DK Choice Tel (09) 581-9081 own stretch of beach, plus a dive
SEREMBAN: ∑ tanjunginn.com shop and turtle hatchery.
The Dusun  Simple fan-cooled chalets and
Resort stylish Malay village-style houses PERHENTIAN ISLANDS:
Kampung Kolan Air, Mukim Pantai are set around a tranquil garden. Tunabay Island Resort 
∑ thedusun.com.my Beach Hotel
At this beautiful orchard retreat KOTA BHARU: Tune  Perhentian Besar
the Malayy village-style units have Modern Tel (09) 690-2902
rainforest views, kitchenettes, KBCC, Jalan Hamzah ∑ tunabay.com.my
and barbecue stoves (catered Tel (09) 744-3822 Wooden chalets have modern
meals are available only upon ∑ tunehotels.com furnishings and there’s a popular
request). The lush grounds have Book well in advance for the best bar and restaurant.
two infinity pools. rates at this excellent-value hotel
that is part of the AirAsia group. PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Bubu
Long Beach Resort 
SERIBUAT ARCHIPELAGO: KOTA BHARU: Pasir Beach Hotel
Batu Batu  Belanda  Pasir Panjang (Long Beach),
Resort Guesthouse Perhentian Kecil
Pulau Tengah Jalan PCB, Banggol District Tel (09) 697-8888
Tel (017) 755-2813 Tel (09) 747-7046 ∑ buburesort.com.my
∑ batubatu.com.my ∑ pasirbelanda.com This is the most comfortable
This upmarket private island resort Traditional Malay chalets are set option on Long Beach. The deluxe
has villas in lush grounds; popular around a garden with a pool; batik villas nestle in greenery on a
with both couples and families. and cookery lessons are offered. stretch of powdery white sand.
For key to prices see p278
PULAU KAPAS: Kapas Beach Damai Beach, the rooms in this

Chalet (KBC)  Sarawak timber building are set around a
Beach Hotel central pool and feature traditional
Lot 85, Pulau Kapas BINTULU: Park City textiles as well as modern fittings.
Tel (012) 288-2008 Everly 
A-frame huts with private Modern KELABIT HIGHLANDS:
facilities are offered at this Malay- Jalan Tun Razak, I mile (2 km) NW of Junglebluesdream 
Dutch-run retreat with a very center Guesthouse
laid-back atmosphere. Tel (086) 318-888 Bario
∑ bintulu.theeverlyhotel.com Tel (019) 884-9892
PULAU KAPAS: Kapas Turtle The best hotel in Bintulu has plush ∑ junglebluesdream.weebly.com
Valley  rooms, some with sea views, and is The longhouse-style residence of
Beach Hotel near restaurants, bars, and a mall. a Kelabit artist and his Danish
Southeast coast, Pulau Kapas partner, this homestay is also an
Tel (013) 354-3650 BRUNEI: The Brunei $$ art gallery. The owners can offer
∑kapasturtlevalley.com Modern advice on jungle treks in the area.
In a secluded cove, this 95 Jalan Pemancha, Bandar Seri
welcoming Dutch-run resort Begawan KUCHING:
offers eight comfortable chalets Tel (073) 224-4828 Batik Boutique Hotel 
on a beautiful stretch of beach. ∑ thebruneihotel.com Modern
The restaurant serves excellent Very near the waterfront and 38 Jalan Padungan
international dishes. Book ahead. offering the best value in the Tel (082) 422-845
capital, The Brunei has stylish ∑ batikboutiquehotel.com
PULAU REDANG: rooms and a good restaurant. The most stylish downtown hotel
Redang Kalong  has a good restaurant and bar,
Resort BRUNEI: Empire Hotel $$ plus a courtyard garden.
Teluk Kalong Beach Resort
Tel (03) 7960-7163 Jerudong BG3122, Negara Brunei KUCHING: Pullman
∑ redangkalong.com Darussalam, 9 miles (15 km) from the Hotel 
The simply furnished rooms have capital Modern
sea views, and there’s a good on- Tel (073) 241-8888 1A Jalan Mathies
site dive center. ∑ theempirehotel.com Tel (082) 222-888
This elaborate combination of ∑ pullmankuching.com
PULAU REDANG: The Taaras hotel and country club has its own Suitable for both business and
Beach & Spa Resort  golf course, pools, and a cinema. leisure travelers, this hilltop tower
Resort offers a full range of amenities
Teluk Dalam Beach DAMAI BEACH: and good city and river views.
Tel (09) 221-3997 Damai Beach Resort 
∑ thetaaras.com Beach Hotel MIRI: Dillenia 
A spa, dive shop, restaurants, Teluk Bandung beach Hostel
pools, and tennis courts feature Tel (082) 846-999 Lot 846, Jalan Sida
at this luxury resort. ∑ damaibeachresort.com Tel (085) 434-204
Rooms are spread over the beach This perenially popular hostel has
and hilltop at this resort. The most a knowledgeable owner who can
DK Choice striking are those in the style of a offer travel advice and arrange
PULAU TENGGOL: Tanjong Bidayuh house with a conical roof. transport to various destinations.
Jara Resort 
Resort DAMAI BEACH: MIRI: Dynasty Hotel 
Batu 8, off Jalan Dungun, The Village House  Modern
Dungun Resort Lot 683, Block 9, Jalan Pujut-Lutong
Tel (03) 2783-1000 Pantai Puteri Santubong Tel (085) 421-111
∑ tanjongjararesort.com Tel (082) 846-166 ∑ dynastyhotelmiri.com.my
Set in peaceful tropical gardens, ∑ villagehouse.com.my A short walk from Miri’s popular
this exclusive retreat is Nestling in the shadow of Mount markets, this pleasant hotel with
sumptuously designed to Santubong and located near a marbled lobby has 130 rooms.
reflect the 17th-century grand
wooden palaces of Malay
sultans. The well-appointed
rooms with timber furnishings
are dotted around the extensive
grounds. There is a relaxing spa.
TAMAN NEGARA: Mutiara

Taman Negara 
Modern
Across the river from Kuala Tahan
Tel (09) 266-3500
∑ mutiarahotels.com
The upmarket, comfortable
chalets are set in secluded, lush
grounds shaded by towering
trees in this national park. Tented four-poster beds at the island retreat Kapas Turtle Valley
MULU: Mulu Marriott Resort & PULAU LANKAYAN: Lankayan

Spa  Island Dive Resort  Singapore
Resort Resort
About a mile (2 km) from Mulu Pulau Lankayan
airport and the Mulu park entrance Tel (089) 673-999 Colonial Core and
Tel (085) 792-388 ∑ lankayan-island.com Chinatown
∑ marriott.com The wooden seafront chalets are
The plushest of Mulu’s hotels, this roomy and comfortable. There’s a Wink $
sprawling, venerable complex reputable dive shop on-site. Hostel Map 4 C3
has a pool, spa, and tennis courts. 8A Mosque Street
SEPILOK: Tel 6222-2940
SIBU: Tanahmas  Sepilok Nature Resort  ∑ winkhostel.com
Modern Resort This slick establishment has
Lot 277, Block 5, Jalan Kampung Jalan Sepilok Mile 14k dorms with capsule-style beds,
Nyabor, off Jalan Chambers Tel (089) 673-999 some sleeping two. Each has its
Tel (084) 333-188 ∑ sepilok.com own power outlet and locker.
∑ tanahmas.com.my Spacious eco-friendly chalets are
This centrally located tower block set around a lake in the jungle. The Inn at Temple Street $$
has spacious rooms, a pool, gym, There is an acclaimed restaurant. Modern Map 4 C4
a couple of restaurants, and 36 Temple Street
business facilities. TIP OF BORNEO: Tampat Do Tel 6221-5333
Aman  ∑ theinn.com.sg
Beach Hotel In a centrally located shophouse,
Peti Surat 115 this is a simple, good-value option.
Sabah Tel (013) 880-8395
∑ tampatdoaman.com
KINABALU NATIONAL PARK: Choose from simple, comfortable DK Choice
Mesilau Nature Resort  rooms in a longhouse, private New Majestic $$
Resort huts and fan-cooled chalets. Boutique Map 4 B4
Jalan Cinta Mata Mesilou, Jalan 31–37 Bukit Pasoh Road
Kundasang Kauluan, A4 road TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN Tel 6511-4700
Tel (088) 871-519 NATIONAL PARK: ∑ newmajestichotel.com
∑ suterasanctuarylodges.com.my Bunga Raya Resort  Masquerading as a gallery of
On a river with plenty of birdlife, Resort contemporary art, every room
this peaceful resort has dorms, Polish Bay, Pulau Gaya at this hotel has been styled by
chalets, and lodges. Tel (088) 380-390 a different designer, some with
∑ bungarayaresort.com flamboyant murals, others
KOTA KINABALU: Jesselton  Nestled in the forest, this minimalist and understated. The
Modern luxurious hideaway has access to swimming pool has glass
69 Jalan Gaya a beautiful white-sand beach. portholes into the restaurant
Tel (088) 223-333 below. Book early to benefit
∑ jesseltonhotel.com TUNKU ABDUL RAHMAN from good rates.
Designed to look like a colonial NATIONAL PARK:
house, this welcoming hotel Gayana Eco Resort 
offers well-appointed rooms. Resort Carlton $$$
Malohom Bay, Pulau Gaya Modern Map 5 E1
KOTA KINABALU: Langkah Tel (088) 380-390 76 Bras Basah Road
Syabas  ∑ gayana-eco-resort.com Tel 6338-8333
Beach Hotel Set on a peaceful lagoon, these ∑ carltonhotel.sg
Jalan Papar Baru, Kampung Laut luxurious villas are on stilts. Plush rooms feature designer
Kinarut, Kinarut There’s an infinity pool. touches at this luxurious hotel.
Tel (088) 752-000
∑ langkahsyabas.com.my
Twelve miles (20 km) south of
Kota Kinabalu, this resort offers
chalets grouped around a pool.
DK Choice
KOTA KINABALU: Hyatt
Regency 
Modern
Jalan Dutuk Salleh Sulong
Tel (088) 221-234
∑ kinabalu.regency.hyatt.com
This sumptuous hotel has an
inviting pool and comfortable
rooms with wonderful sea views.
There’s a well-equipped gym
and spa. The restaurant features
an open kitchen and serves
local and international dishes.
Mulu Marriott Resort, a landmark easily spotted from incoming flights
Fort Canning $$$ Wanderlust $$

Historic Map 4 C1 Boutique Map 3 D3
11 Canning Walk 2 Dickson Road
Tel 6559-6770 Tel 6396-3322
∑ hfcsingapore.com ∑ wanderlusthotel.com
In a former British military building Rooms are color-coded or
within Fort Canning Park, this decked out in eccentric artwork
luxurious hotel has rooms with at this very quirky hotel.
quirky touches – some have the
bathtub almost next to the bed. Goodwood Park $$$
Historic Map 2 A3
Fullerton $$$ 22 Scotts Road
Historic Map 5 E3 Tel 6737-7411
1 Fullerton Square ∑ goodwoodparkhotel.com
Tel 6733-8388 Only a 5-minute walk from
∑ fullertonhotel.com Orchard Road, this hotel in a
With Neo-Classical façades and colonial-era landmark building
an Art Deco atrium with massive has every luxury and excellent
Egyptian temple-style pillars, Designer decor in an individually styled restaurants and coffee lounges.
the opulent Fullerton is one of room at the New Majestic, Singapore
Singapore’s most stunning hotels. Mandarin Orchard $$$
Modern Map 2 A4
Marina Bay Sands $$$ Little India and 333 Orchard Road
Modern Map 5 F3 Orchard Road Tel 6737-4411
10 Bayfront Avenue ∑ meritushotels.com
Tel 6688-8868 The Inn Crowd $ The perenially popular Mandarin
∑ marinabaysands.com Hostel Map 3 D3 Orchard has elegant rooms and
There’s a definite thrill in staying 73 Dunlop Street its own swanky shopping mall.
at this iconic building just by Tel 6296-9169 Staff wear traditional Chinese-
Gardens by the Bay. The infinity ∑ theinncrowd.com inspired uniforms.
pool affords unrivalled views of Probably the best-value hostel
the Colonial Core. in Singapore has well-kept Shangri-La $$$
dorms and private rooms that, Modern Map 1 E1
Parkroyal on Kitchener $$$ unusually, have TVs. Staff 22 Orange Grove Road
Modern Map 3 E2 organize offbeat excursions. Tel 6737-3644
3 Upper Pickering Street ∑ shangri-la.com
Tel 6809-8888 The Big Hotel $$ Amid the tropical gardens of this
∑ parkroyalhotels.com Modern Map 3 D4 opulent green haven are three
This luxury hotel prides itself on 200 Middle Road wings of plush rooms and
connecting with nature by using Tel 6809-7998 restaurants. Facilities include
wood furnishing and glass for ∑ bighotel.com tennis courts and a spa.
natural light. The curvy-edged This arty, chic hotel’s rooms have
green terraces are intended to minimalist styling and high-tec
echo rice paddies. comforts such as in-room tablets. Farther Afield
Santa Grand East Coast $$
Lloyd’s Inn $$ Boutique
DK Choice Modern Map 2 B5 171 East Coast Road, Katong
Raffles $$$ 2 Lloyd Road Tel 6344-6866
Historic Map 5 E1 Tel 6737-7309 ∑ santagrandhotels.com
1 Beach Road ∑ lloydsinn.com This hotel has an attractive
Tel 6337-1886 Smart designer fittings, a roof shophouse façade, bright
∑ raffleshotel.com terrace, and a landscaped garden Peranakan-themed rooms, and
Raffles is a byword for colonial feature at this minimalist hotel. a rooftop pool.
charm and opulence. Beyond
its whitewashed Neo-Classical The Quincy $$ Siloso Beach Resort $$
façade are serene courtyard Modern Map 2 A3 Resort
gardens and luxurious suites, all 22 Mount Elizabeth 51 Imbiah Walk
with butler service, plus Tel 6738-5888 Tel 6722-3333
excellent restaurants and the ∑ quincy.com.sg ∑ silosobeachresort.com
Long Bar, where the Singapore Oozing contemporary style, this The main draw here is the
Sling was first concocted. smart hotel has a lovely infinity excellent swimming pool with a
pool on the 12th floor. waterfall and slides.
Sofitel So $$$ The Sultan $$ Capella $$$

Boutique Map 5 D4 Modern Map 3 F4 Resort
35 Robinson Road 101 Jalan Sultan 1 The Knolls, Sentosa
Tel 6701-6800 Tel 6723-7101 Tel 6377-8888
∑ sofitel.com ∑ thesultan.com.sg ∑ capellahotels.com/singapore
Partly designed by Karl Lagerfeld, Occupying a series of refurbished Sentosa’s most lavish hotel is set
this supremely chic hotel has a shophouses, this relaxed hotel’s around splendid former British
mixture of ornate, Baroque- rooms are individually decorated officers’ quarters. Rooms are chic
inspired decor and modern, with understated flair. For a quiet and contemporary, there’s a top-
quirky touches. stay, ask for an attic room. notch spa, and three pools.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

With their clever combinations of textures you’re usually assured of a decent meal, if
and flavors, the cuisines of Malaysia and not an excellent one. The major cities of
Singapore offer exciting dining discoveries Kuala Lumpur and Singapore boast a dazzling
for the visitor. Dishes of Malay, Chinese, and array of international cuisines, and many
Indian origin are widely available, reflecting provincial cities, including Kota Bharu,
the three major communities that make up Georgetown, Melaka, and Kuching, usually
the population of the two countries. Whether offer a good variety, including Italian, French,
you eat at a sumptuous restaurant in a top Mexican, Vietnamese, and Japanese, plus a
hotel or a simple street stall in a local market, range of Western-style venues.
Types of Restaurants 290–301 are given in Malaysian Table Etiquette

Though the cuisines available in ringgit or Singapore dollars as Most Malay, Chinese, and Indian
Malaysia and Singapore are appropriate (and in Brunei using food is chopped up for quick
amazingly varied, eateries are the Brunei dollar, which is equal cooking, so a knife is not required.
essentially of three types: hawker in value to the Singapore dollar). Generally a fork and spoon are
stalls, kedai kopi or coffee shops, the preferred eating utensils
and restaurants that range from (local people mainly use the
the simple to the lavish. Reading the Menu spoon). Chopsticks are useful for
Hawker stalls are not only the Virtually all restaurants and many noodle dishes but are not used
cheapest, with food often as coffee shops and hawker stalls for rice unless it is in a rice bowl,
good as the best restaurant, but display the names of the dishes in which case the chopsticks are
also a real cultural experience. they offer in English. If they used, shovel-like, to bring the
Despite the name, many stalls don’t have English menus, it is rice to the mouth. Diners are
are no longer found on the acceptable to just point at your presented with an individual
street but are instead collected choice of dish. The problem is plate or bowl, and help them-
into indoor hawker centers or not so much finding out what is selves from the platters of stir-
food courts. Kedai kopi are on offer but what to select, such fried dishes, curries, soups, and
no-frills neighborhood cafés is the wide variety. salads in the center of the table.
that usually offer a limited Menus are often organized
range of dishes at cheap prices, according to the main ingredient,
and are, along with hawker such as chicken, beef, pork, Reservations
centers, the favored place to eat seafood, and vegetables (note Reservations are not generally
for most locals. The kedai kopi that pork is unavailable not just necessary except at the most
either has a handful of “stalls”, at halal eateries, but also at most popular or upscale restaurants,
resembling a mini-food court, Malaysian hotel restaurants and although in Singapore it’s
or a central kitchen serving up at Chinese restaurants in some advisable to book at weekends,
a limited range of dishes. Muslim-majority areas). There are when most families go out for a
Restaurants vary from simple usually a few individual meals, meal. People with special dietary
shopfronts to establishments but most people tend to eat in needs should mention it to the
that serve gourmet food in groups and choose a variety of restaurant manager before
elegant surroundings. The most dishes in order to sample more. making a reservation. Kedai kopi
expensive are those in Kuala Portions are relatively generous don’t take bookings, but meals
Lumpur and Singapore. Prices in and for a couple, three dishes there are over so quickly that
the restaurant listings on pages will usually suffice. you’ll seldom have to wait more
than a few minutes for a table.
Drinks
Alcoholic drinks, especially beer,
are generally available but prices
can be high; hawker centers and
kedai kopi tend to be cheapest.
Muslim restaurants, however,
along with many Chinese
eateries in the conservative
northeast of the Peninsula,
serve no alcohol at all. Freshly
squeezed fruit juices are widely
available at hawker stalls, and the
Outside seating at Nerovivo, among European options in Kuala Lumpur (p291) variety of exotic tropical fruits
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 285
has an irresistible appeal, though

note that sugar is almost always
added unless you specify other-
wise. Tuak, or rice wine, is brewed
in the longhouses of Sabah and
Sarawak, but visitors should note
that it can vary from weak and
cloying to extremely potent.
Payment and Tipping

Top-end and many mid-range
restaurants accept credit cards,
but in general it is best to carry
sufficient cash to pay the bill. Chic interior of Ristorante Beccari, Kuching (p297)
Tipping is not common: bills
may include a service charge Vegetarians for those unaccustomed to
and tax, and a tip is not expected It can be difficult for vegetarians spicy food. High standards of
at kedai kopi and hawker stalls; to find dishes that don’t contain food preparation and quality
only at cheaper restaurants any meat or seafood. However, control are maintained, yet care
without a service charge might most Indian restaurants have a should be taken as children
you want to offer a tip. selection of vegetarian dishes traveling here could be prone to
and Chinese restaurants can food- and water-related ailments.
prepare vegetable stir-fries,
Street Food though note that cooks often
Sampling street food is one of use oyster sauce as seasoning Smoking
the highlights of a visit to unless you ask for it to be Smoking is prohibited in
Malaysia and Singapore, not just omitted. Many cities also have enclosed, air-conditioned
because many dishes served at Chinese vegetarian eateries that environments, which comprise
hawker stalls are unfamiliar to use soya or gluten-based meat two-thirds of the restaurants
foreign visitors, but also because substitutes to emulate traditional in Malaysia and Singapore.
the food is generally prepared dishes as well as street food. However, about one-third of
with great expertise. Another the eateries have a terrace or
advantage of hawker stalls is outdoor smoking area.
that it is often possible to Eating with Children
sample Malay, Chinese, and There are no restrictions on
Indian cuisine, all in one spot. children entering restaurants in Recommended
Some stalls specialize in just one Malaysia and Singapore; in fact, Restaurants
or a handful of rice or noodle in most places they are welcome. The restaurants recommended
dishes, others serve up a range Some restaurants offer special on pages 290–301 have been
of curries, egg dishes, pancakes, children’s meals. Mild Chinese selected on the basis of their
or satay, and all are inexpensive. soups and rice dishes are best popularity, quality, and value for
money. A range of establish-
ments catering to different
tastes has been included, so
that there are places to sample
local specialties in every area,
plus a range of restaurants
offering international cuisine,
especially in the major cities.
Many excellent hawker centers
and kedai kopi are featured, to
give an authentic idea of the
Malaysian and Singaporean
dining experience.
Restaurants highlighted as
DK Choices stand out for one
or more exceptional features:
perhaps a unique setting, or the
breadth as well as the quality of
the food. These special places
have stood the test of time and
boast a loyal following, and are
Traditional and improvised decor at the relaxed Calanthe Art Café, Melaka (p294) worth seeking out.
The Flavors of Malay Cuisine

Malaysians and Singaporeans live to eat, so it is not
surprising that markets offer an abundance of fresh tropical
fruit and vegetables, meat, and seafood. Mounds of
cabbages, eggplants, mangoes, and pineapples are stacked
up beside bowls of dried shrimp and fresh crabs, slabs of
beef, and marinated ducks. Some stalls specialize in types of
rice, the staple of Malay cuisine; others in flavorings and
pastes, such as rempah and belacan, essential to Malay
cooking. Though many dishes are unknown outside the Galangal, lemongrass, and
region, satay has become a worldwide favorite. bird’s-eye chilies
enhanced with coconut milk both of which are usually

(santan), in nasi lemak. served with scrumptious
Noodles may be made spicy sauce.
from wheat, wheat and egg,
rice, or mung beans and are
served fried or as a soup Rempah and Sambal
with vegetables and meat or The carefully blended
seafood. Typical Malay noodle seasoning pastes are the secret
dishes are laksa and mee rebus, to the mouthwatering flavors
Jambu air (water apple) Betik Limau Kaktus madu

Stall at the Chow Kit fish market, Durian (papaya) Nenas (pomelo) (dragon fruit)
Kuala Lumpur (pineapple)
Mangga
Nasi and Mee (mango)
Rice (nasi) and noodles (mee)
form the basis of any Malay
meal, though the preparation Belimbing
of both is almost as varied as (star fruit)
the sauces, broths, and curries
that accompany them.
Rice may be served fried,
steamed, glutinous, or boiled
into bubur, a savoury soup or
porridge. It is commonly
steamed, and eaten with a
selection of toppings (nasi
campur). It is also sometimes Tropical fruits of the region
Malay Dishes and Specialties

Breakfast can be almost anything in
Malaysia and Singapore, but a couple of
favorites are laksa (spicy noodle soup)
and nasi lemak (a rice dish). Lunch is
usually a one-dish meal, which might
easily be nasi campur or mee goreng.
Dinner generally brings family groups or
friends together to share a variety of
classic Malay dishes, such as satay (spicy
Chicken satay meat skewers with a peanut sauce), rendang,
and ayam panggang (chicken marinated with
garlic and lime, grilled and served with a hot sambal). This is likely
to be followed by an ais kacang or a plate of fresh fruit. Constantly Mee goreng are yellow
passionate about food, locals don’t miss out on a late-night supper, noodles, stir-fried with vege-
indulging in anything from a steaming hot bowl of rice soup to a tables and meat, fish, or tofu,
plate of barbecued chicken wings. and garnished with lime.
but adding elements of

Portuguese, Indian, and Thai
cuisine. A typical Peranakan
dish is mee siam, or fine rice
noodles in a spicy, sweet-
sour gravy.
Visitors to Malaysian Borneo
can sample local specialties
such as linut (in Sarawak) and
ambuyat (in Sabah), both
translucent pastes made of
sago starch, paku (jungle ferns),
A woman selling fruit and other produce at a market in Kota Belud and jaruk (wild boar mixed
with salt and rice and cooked
of Malay food. The most widely and Peranakan, or Straits in a bamboo tube).
used paste is rempah, for which Chinese, food are the most
garlic, lemongrass, shallots, distinctive. In Malaysia, REGIONAL LAKSAS
galangal, and ginger are Peranakan cuisine came into
pounded in a mortar. existence when Chinese Every state has its own version
Cinnamon, coriander seeds, traders settled in the region of this noodle soup, a national
and married local Nyonya favorite, including:
cloves, and peppercorns are
added to thicken curries, or are women. They combined spicy Assam laksa
fried in oil until fragrant before Malay pastes with ingredients From the Penang region, this uses
being added to meat or that are usual in Malay food, tamarind to give a sour edge, as
vegetables. such as pork and duck, using well as flaked fish, wild ginger
Sambal is a chili paste that is Chinese cooking techniques buds, and belacan. Pineapple is
shredded for a sweet garnish.
served as a side dish. Sambal
ulek is a blend of chili, salt, and Laksa Johor
vinegar, while the hugely A very rich fish laksa flavored
popular sambal belacan is with coconut milk, cumin,
made of chili, salt, and sugar coriander seeds, and turmeric. It is
pounded with fermented garnished with cucumber, bean
sprouts, and Vietnamese mint.
shrimp paste, and served with
a wedge of lime. Sarawak laksa
This features chicken, and
prawns in tangy kalamansi lime.
Peranakan and Toasted rice and coconut give
Bornean Cuisine the soup a brownish color.
Malay cuisine is influenced Singapore laksa
by Chinese, Indian, Thai, Deep-fried anchovies, belacan,
Indonesian, and other cultures, and coconut milk are used to
but there are several regional Grilling satay at the Gurney Drive hawker make a rich, sour soup that is
variations, of which Bornean center in Penang topped with fish cakes.
Rendang, influenced by Laksa lemak, found around Ais kacang is a vivid dessert
Indonesian cuisine, is a fiery, dry Kuala Lumpur and known as concoction of shaved ice with
curry made with chicken, curry laksa, features prawns, syrup, jelly, corn, red beans, and
mutton, or beef. tofu, and egg. evaporated milk.
The Flavors of Malay-Chinese Cuisine

The Chinese had been trading in the region for centuries, but it was not
until the 19th century that immigrants began settling in large
numbers, attracted by tin- and gold-mining, and plantation
agriculture. The greatest concentration of settlers was in
Singapore, where Chinese cuisine still predominates,
though its influence is apparent throughout Malaysia.
In Malay cuisine, rice and noodles are a staple in most
meals, of which the latter is a major Chinese import. Key
elements in all regional variations of Chinese food are the
Dried shiitake mushrooms
use of fresh produce and the balance of tastes and textures.
Deep-fried bean-curd is a Hakka peasant food, is still the

specialty, and pork (especially source of delicate spring
belly) is the preferred meat. rolls. Noodles are found in
Hainanese food features fresh many dishes, such as Hokkien
ingredients and the sparing use mee, thick wheat noodles stir-
of spices. It has given Malaysia fried with seafood or pork.
and Singapore one of their most Teochew cuisine, from
common dishes – Hainanese Chiuchow, is famed for muay
chicken rice, garnished with porridge – a pale rice broth
cucumber, and chili and ginger served with crayfish, salted
dips. Hokkien, sometimes called eggs, and vegetables.
Xiao long bao Coriander dumplings Chive Pork buns

Frying street snacks in Chinatown, dumplings Shao mai
Kuala Lumpur Prawn dumplings
Regional Influences
The Chinese food in Malaysia
and Singapore is usually
Cantonese, noted for its mild
flavorings and specialties such
as dim sum (steamed or fried
filled dumplings and buns).
Hakka cuisine, from the
provinces of Guangdong and
Fujian, mixes fresh and Seafood dumplings
preserved ingredients. Selection of steamed dumplings that make up a typical dim sum meal
ON THE CHINESE MENU

Bak kut teh (Hokkien) Lou ark (Teochew)
Pork rib soup. Braised duck.
Cao fan (Cantonese) Fried rice. Lui char fan (Hakka)
Char kway teow (Hokkien) Rice porridge with ground
Spicy flat rice noodles with peanuts, sweet potato leaves,
cockles, sausage, and egg in peppercorns, and mint.
soy sauce. Pai quat (Cantonese) Steamed
Cha siew mee (Cantonese) pork ribs with black beans.
Egg noodles in soup with Sek bak (Hokkien) Pork belly in
minced pork dumplings. spicy black bean sauce.
Chee cheong fun (Hokkien) Sha bou fan (Cantonese) Rice in
Rice flour rolls stuffed with a claypot with chicken, sausage,
shrimp or pork. salted fish, and soy sauce.
Aromatic soup of pork ribs, shiitake Hay mee (Hokkien) Prawn Shao mai (Cantonese) Minced
mushrooms, and cilantro and pork rib noodle soup. pork wrapped in dumplings.
The Flavors of Malay-Indian Cuisine

The main period of Indian immigration was the 19th century,
when laborers were shipped across to work on rubber
plantations operated by the British. Most were Hindus from
southern India and, like the Chinese, they brought a major
influence to Malay cuisine. Although rice is a staple, Indian
food is also characterized by its use of pulses and various
types of flatbread, such as roti, naan, and chapati. The most
commonly used flavorings are chili, cumin, garam masala,
coriander, mustard seed, turmeric, yogurt, coconut, and ghee. Naan bread
emphasis on bread and meat Mamak Cuisine

in the northern Indian diet, A third type of Indian food
southern Indian food is always frequently found in Malaysia
accompanied by rice and many is that produced by Indian
vegetarian dishes. Despite the Muslims. These dishes are
hotter climate, dishes from mostly sold at hawker stalls,
south India tend to be spicy and include mee goreng (spicy
and are distinguished by the fried noodles), rojak (deep-
liberal use of coconut milk, fried vegetables and seafood
lentils, and curry leaves. The in a sweet and spicy sauce),
thali is a popular southern and mee rebus (a mix of yellow
Indian meal, comprising small noodles and beansprouts in
portions of a variety of dishes a sweet potato gravy, topped
Baskets of chilies in the market at and condiments. with a boiled egg).
Langkawi, Malaysia
Fish in coconut Mung bean dal Chickpea Banana chutney
North and South tamarind sauce masala Coconut
Pilau Roti chutney Raita Lemon
Northern Indian cuisine is
characterized by the use Prawn curry canai pickle
of dairy products to make
rich, thick sauces. Many
dishes are baked in a
cylindrical clay oven called a
tandoor; these include naan
breads and the famous
tandoori chicken now
enjoyed worldwide. Breads
are eaten in preference to
rice. In contrast to the Example of a thali, laid out on a banana leaf
Indian Favorites in Malaysia

From early morning, cooks at roti stalls
throughout Malaysia can be seen
spinning dough into a flat disk, folding it
in on itself, then frying it on a griddle to
make roti canai, which can either be
dipped in a bowl of curry sauce or
sprinkled with sugar for a less spicy
Red lentils breakfast. At lunchtime, one of the most
popular dishes sold at Indian Muslim
hawker stalls is the vegetarian mee rebus. For dinner, among the
many delicious and filling options are biryani and a thali. The
former has a base of seasoned rice cooked with saffron, nuts, and
vegetables, and is served with meat or seafood, and vegetables.
The latter consists of a tray or banana leaf, laden with vegetable,
fish, or meat curries, pulses (dal), pickles, and yogurt (raita), as Lamb biryani, fragrant with saffron and
well as rice, breads, or poppadoms. other spices
Where to Eat and Drink

Feeka  Price Guide
Kuala Lumpur Western Map 5 C2 Prices are based on an evening meal
19 Jalan Mesui for one person including service but
KLCC Tel (03) 2110-4599 no alcohol.
Acme Bar & Coffee (ABC)  Delicious home-made pastries /$ up to RM/$20
Western and a range of light meals are /$$ RM/$20–RM/$$50
/$$$ over RM/$50
Ground Floor, The Troika, served at this laid-back café.
19 Persiaran KLCC
Tel (03) 2162-2288 Hakka  Pinchos 
The all-day weekend brunches Chinese Map 6 D1 Spanish Map 5 C2
are a highlight at this bright 90 Jalan Raja Chulan 18 Changkat Bukit Bintang
and airy café with floor-to- Tel (03) 2143-1908 Tel (03) 2145-8482 Closed lunch,
ceiling windows and low- This superb Hakka restaurant Mon
hanging light bulbs. with open-air seating offers Enjoy the dishes at the bar or at
particularly good seafood dishes. wooden tables as you people-
Cantaloupe  watch at this buzzing tapas joint,
French Lot 10 Hutong  which swarms with customers
Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Asian Map 6 D2 most evenings.
19 Persiaran KLCC Basement, Lot 10 Mall, Jalan Bukit
Tel (03) 2162-0886 Closed lunch Bintang Pisco Bar 
Mon–Sat You can sample everything from Peruvian & Spanish Map 5 C2
The real draw here is the noodles to dumplings at this 29 Jalan Mesui
bird’s-eye views of the city; gourmet heritage village with Tel (03) 2142-2900 Closed lunch,
there’s also a popular Sunday dozens of excellent hawker Mon
lunch that attracts visitors stalls specializing in Malay and This popular bar rustles up
and expats alike. Asian cuisine. potent pisco sours, the Peruvian
drink of choice. There are tasty
Fuego  Luk Yu Tea House  Peruvian and Spanish tapas, too.
South American Chinese Map 6 D2
Level 23A, Tower B, The Troika, Basement, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Sao Nam 
19 Persiaran KLCC Bukit Bintang Vietnamese Map 5 B2
Tel (03) 2162-0886 Closed lunch Tel (03) 2782-3850 25 Tengkat Tong Shin
This swanky tapas bar with open- Hong Kong-style pork-free dim Tel (03) 2144-1225
air seating offers incredible views sum are served at this welcoming An award-winning restaurant,
of the Petronas Towers. restaurant shaped like a teapot. Sao Nam is popular with
There are plenty of teas on offer. international travelers. The menu
Marini’s on 57  includes spring rolls and
Italian Map 2 E4 The Magnificent Fish & mangosteen and prawn salad.
Level 57, Menara 3 Petronas Chip Bar 
Tel (03) 2386-6030 Closed lunch British Map 5 C2 Albion 
Kuala Lumpur’s highest rooftop 28 Changkat Bukit Bintang British Map 5 C2
bar is one of the best places to Tel (03) 2142-7021 31 Jalan Berangan
enjoy a pre-prandial cocktail, Authentic fish and chips are Tel (03) 2141-9282 Closed Mon
while the award-winning served in newspaper wrapping. Authentic modern British
restaurant serves creatively There’s an all-day English breakfast cuisine including top-notch
presented dishes. and Guinness-and-steak pie. Sunday roasts with Yorkshire
pudding, as well as excellent
slow-roasted pork belly.
Bukit Bintang and the
Golden Triangle Frangipani 
Modern European Map 5 C2
Din Tain Fung  25 Changkat Bukit Bintang
Chinese Map 6 D2 Tel (03) 2144-3001 Closed lunch;
Level 6, Pavilion KL Mall Mon
Tel (03) 2148-8292 First-rate nouvelle cuisine is
Part of a bustling chain, Din Tain served at this sleek restaurant. It
Fung has an open-plan kitchen also has a very trendy bar that
and specializes in pork dumplings, buzzes on weekends, attracting
which are traditionally eaten both a straight and gay clientele.
dipped in ginger vinegar.
Havana 
Muar  Western Map 5 C2
Malay Map 5 B2 Changkat Bukit Bintang
6G Tengkat Tong Shin Tel (03) 2142-7170 Closed lunch
Tel (03) 2144-2072 Closed Mon Specializing in steaks, burgers,
Cuisine from Muar, a small coastal and beef ribs cooked over a
town known for its variations of charcoal grill, this busy restaurant
Chinese and Malay dishes is gets packed on the weekends.
served in a simple interior. It’s the European wine-bar interior at the There’s a popular bar and club by
perfect spot to grab a quick bite. Italian Neroteca the same name upstairs.
Marble 8 Steakhouse 

Western
163 Jalan Binjai
Tel (03) 2386-6030 Closed Sat lunch
Fine cuts of Wagyu and Angus
beef are on the menu at this fine-
dining steakhouse. There are
excellent views of the Petronas
Towers. The swish M8 bar is the
ideal place to enjoy cocktails.
Neroteca 
Italian Map 5 C2
Unit G1, Seri Bukit Ceylon, 8 Lorong
Ceylon
Tel (03) 2070-0530 Closed Sat lunch
The stylish Neroteca is a great
spot to enjoy a glass of wine and
nibble on some cold cuts, or The modern interior of popular Nerovivo
enjoy a hearty Italian meal. It’s
also popular for Sunday brunch. Zenzero  Farther Afield
Italian Map 5 C1
Nerovivo  Ground Floor, St Mary Place, 1 Jalan
Italian Map 5 B2 Tengah DK Choice
3a Jalan Ceylon Tel (03) 2022-3883 Closed Sat lunch Annalakshmi 
Tel (03) 2070-3120 Closed Sat lunch, Undoubtedly one of the city’s Indian
Sun best Italian restaurants, the menu Temple of Fine Arts, 116 Jalan
A range of well-executed classic at Zenzero changes seasonally, Berhala, Brickfields
Italian dishes, including excellent and there’s an extensive wine list. Tel (03) 2274-3799 Closed Mon
meat and seafood mains, is An excellent lunchtime buffet
served ar this upscale restaurant and evening à-la-carte menu of
with modern decor. Book ahead. Chinatown authentic South Indian dishes is
Central Market Food Court  served at this restaurant set in
Asian Map 4 F3 the Temple of Fine Arts. The
DK Choice Jalan Hang Kasturi profits of the evening menu
Shook!  Tel 1300-22-8688 support various projects in the
Asian/Western Map 6 D2 An array of different dishes are on Indian community.
Basement, Starhill Gallery, offer from Malaysia and beyond,
181 Jalan Bukit Bintang including traditional Nyonya
Tel (03) 2719-8535 cuisine and Japanese pancakes. Sri Nirwana Maju 
Attracting a well-heeled crowd Indian
of locals and expats, this Nam Heong  43 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar
excellent restaurant with four Chinese Map 4 F3 Tel (03) 2287-8445
show kitchens serves Italian, 56 Jalan Sultan Excellent meat and fish curries
Chinese, Japanese, and Tel (03) 2078-5879 Closed eve are served in an informmal
Western grill dishes. The This is a popular spot for original setting at this bustling banana-
walk-in cellar holds over 3,000 Haiwanese chicken rice prepared leaf curry house. Long queues
bottles, which means there’s in the open kitchen. are to be expected.
an extensive wine list. There’s
daily live jazz, too. Old China Café  Alexis Bistro 
Chinese & Malay Map 4 F4 Asian/Western
11 Jalan Balai Polis 29 Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar
Sushi Hinata  Tel (03) 207-25915 Tel (03) 2284-2880 Closed eve
Japanese Map 5 C1 Brimming with old-world charm, Especially popular among Kuala
A-0-1, Ground Floor, St Mary this atmospheric café serves Lumpur’s expats, this stylish café,
Residence, 1 Jalan Tengah hearty, classic dishes. bistro, and wine bar offers
Tel (03) 2022-1349 Closed Sun modern takes on traditional
Sushi and sashimi is lovingly Asian and Western dishes,
prepared at the open counter of DK Choice including pizza and pasta, as well
this small restaurant, which is Contango  as a mouthwatering selection of
considered to be among the Asian/Western Map 4 E4 home-made cakes. There are
capital’s very best. Majestic Hotel, Jalan Sultan frequent live jazz performances.
Hishamuddin
twenty.one  Tel (03) 2785-8000 La Bodega 
European Map 5 C2 At this buffet restaurant there’s Spanish
20–21 Changkat Bukit Bintang a mouthwatering array of 16 Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar
Tel (03) 2142-0021 freshly prepared dishes ranging Tel (03) 2287-8318
One of Changkat’s most popular from Indian, Chinese, and Malay This branch of a tapas chain has
venues, this restaurant, bar, and to Italian, rustled up before your an adjacent deli and serves
club has it all – from excellent very eyes in an open kitchen. Spanish food products imported
modern European fare to a There’s a good selection of from Spain. It has a particularly
trendy first-floor bar and dance desserts and wines. loyal expat clientele who flock
area with balcony. here for its paella and tapas.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp284–5
Mercat  hotels in Malaysia, the cooked

Spanish breakfasts feature pork bacon
51G Jalan Telawi 3, Bangsar rather than a halal substitute.
Tel (03) 2201-5288 Closed Mon
Superb Catalan tapas, as well as IPOH: Haji Yahaya 
heartier mains, are served at this Malay
bustling gastro-bar. The pork and Jalan Dato Onn Jaafar
beef meatballs with cuttlefish At this delightful corner kedai
and peas is one of their most kopi there is an excellent
popular dishes. selection of curries, spicy fried
chicken, and fish dishes, as well
WTF  as unusual offerings such as nasi
International kerabu – a bluish rice, traditionally
98 Lorong Maarof, Bangsar colored using a flower, that is a
Tel (019) 261-7070 specialty of Kota Bharu.
The Indian vegetarian dishes
are exquisite, but there are plenty IPOH: Foh San 
of other cuisines to choose from Chinese
including Chinese and Mexican. 51 Jalan Leong Sin Nam
The acronym stands for What Tel (05) 254-0308 Closed eve, Tue
Tasty Food. Order by pointing at your
China House, which segues from restaurant selected dishes at this airy dim
Yeast  to night spot as the evening draws on sum restaurant where most of
French the bamboo steamers of
24G Jalan Telawi 2, Bangsar Chinese stir-fries. This venue dumplings, glutinous rice, and
Tel (03) 2282-0118 Closed Mon is especially popular with other morsels sit in glass
This boulangerie, café, and bistro young travelers. cabinets. There are a few more
is the ideal spot for a morning substantial dishes too, such as
snack and a coffee. The menu CAMERON HIGHLANDS: chee cheong fun (rice noodle rolls
includes French favorites such as Cameron AA Curry House  in a savory sauce).
boeuf bourguignon. International
44B Jalan Besar (Main Road), corner IPOH: Plan B 
Rendez-Vous  of Lorong Perdah, Tanah Rata Western–Asian Fusion
French Tel (016) 526-9097 75 Jalan Panglima
100 Lorong Maarof, Bangsar Despite the name, this convivial Tel (05) 249-8286
Tel (03) 2202-0206 Closed Mon restaurant actually majors on With glass paneling and modern
A wide selection of typical Italian food. The pizzas are brickwork the sleekest restaurant
French meat and seafood dishes especially popular – a medium- in Ipoh’s old town has an eclectic
as well as delicious desserts are sized pizza is big enough for two menu of excellent pasta dishes,
served in a welcoming interior. to share. They also serve pasta burgers, and sophisticated
There is an extensive wine list of dishes and omelettes, currries, versions of Asian favorites such as
bottles from the most renowned and kebabs. Vietnamese beef noodles. There is
vineyards in France. also a wonderful dessert menu –
CAMERON HIGHLANDS: try the apple sugee cake, made
Cameron Organic  with semolina.
Chinese
Northwest Jalan Angsana, Brinchang LANGKAWI: Warung
Peninsula Tel (05) 491-4807 Janggus 
Steamboats – Chinese fondues, Malay
ALOR STAR: Lot 7 Food where diners cook platters of Jalan Pantai Cenang, center of
Court  sliced meat, seafood, and Cenang beach Closed Tue
Chinese vegetables in pots of boiling This humble eatery looks like
Jalan Sekerat stock at the table – are a little more than a garage, but its
The best of the food courts close mainstay of dining in the chilly lunchtime spread is one of the
to Alor Star’s Chinatown has a Cameron Highlands. This best in Langkawi: bank on two
vast range of rice and noodle restaurant stands out from the dozen or more stir-fries, curries,
dishes, as well as more eclectic rest by using organic vegetables and stews, ranging from braised
options such as oyster omelette, and offering a choice of chicken crab to mango salad. In the
and even Chinese renditions of or vegetable stock. evening the accent is on
lamb chops with chips. barbecued fish.
CAMERON HIGHLANDS:
CAMERON HIGHLANDS: Smokehouse  LANGKAWI: Orkid Ria 
Kumar  British Chinese
Indian The Smokehouse Hotel, by the golf Lot 1225, Jalan Pantai Cenang,
26 Jalan Besar (Main Road), Tanah course, Tanah Rata northern end of Cenang beach
Rata Tel (05) 491-1215 Tel (04) 955-4128
Tel (05) 491-2624 The very British Smokehouse Specializing in seafood, Orkid Ria
At this informal diner with hotel maintains the theme at its offers excellent fish and shellfish
friendly wait stafff the chefs rustle restaurant, which distinguishes that’s grilled, steamed, or fried to
up traditional dishes such as itself with roasts such as beef order. It’s all priced by weight, so
Tandoori chicken, roti, curries on Wellington and excellent be careful not to over-order.
banana leaves, freshly prepared cream teas with scones and There is also a good range of
naan bread and even versions of jam. Almost uniquely among vegetable and meat dishes.
LANGKAWI: Unkaizan  tiles and marble tables. It serves PENANG: Sarkies 
Japanese fine Peranakan cuisine, including International
Lot 395, Jalan Telok Baru, southern kuih pai tee (crisp pastry cups E & O Hotel, 10 Lebuh Farquhar,
end of Tengah beach with a spring-roll-like filling) and Georgetown
Tel (04) 955-4118 Closed lunch; inche kabin (a Penang dish of Tel (04) 222-2000
every other Wed fried chicken). Unless you’re staying here, there’s
It’s worth seeking out this no better way to glimpse the
secluded restaurant, up a leafy PENANG: Tai Tong  colonial splendor of the E & O
hillside, for the excellent-value Chinese Hotel than to enjoy a buffet
set meals and a wide range of 45 Lebuh Cintra, Georgetown lunch or dinner at the Sarkies
sushi and sashimi, plus daily Tel (04) 263-6625 restaurant. The spread includes
specials and Japanese ice-cream. At one of the most endearingly roasts, grilled seafood, sushi,
old-fashioned dim sum curries, Malaysian hawker
LANGKAWI: The Cliff  restaurants in the country, standards, and a wide range of
Malay–Western Fusion staff push trolleys laden with cakes and desserts.
Lot 63 & 40, Jalan Pantai Cenang, morsels. There is also a wide range
southern end of Cenang beach of other Cantoneses dishes that PENANG: Via Pre 
Tel (04) 953-3228 are cooked to order, from fried Italian
The artfully presented Malay fare chicken to vegetable stir-fries. 5 Pengkalan Weld, Georgetown
has eclectic influences; try the Tel (04) 262-0560
sup ekor lembu (oxtail soup) or PENANG: Woodlands  Among Malaysia’s best Italian
king prawns with an oaty Indian Vegetarian restaurants, Via Pre serves
coating. Sunset views from the 60 Lebuh Penang, Georgetown excellent pizza and pasta dishes.
bar are unrivalled – arrive early Tel (04) 263-9764 Their wild boar ragout and
and sit by the parapet. This low-key restaurant has some mushroom spaghetti are
South Indian dishes, although it’s particular hits with locals. There
PANGKOR: Sea View  the North Indian fare that stands is a good range of cured hams,
Chinese out: try the palak paneer (spinach antipasti, and desserts, too.
Sea View Hotel, Pasir Bogak with cheese) and malai kofta
Tel (04) 685-1605 (dumplings in a creamy sauce), TAIPING: Taman Tasik Food
This long-established favorite both excellent with the freshly Court 
with, as the name suggests, a made naan bread. Chinese
view of the Strait of Malacca, has Facing the southwestern side of
an extensive menu focused on Lake Gardens
seafood, plus some Western main DK Choice In a city dotted with food courts,
courses and snacks. Try the PENANG: this is one of the best, featuring
tamarind prawns, steamed red China House  the usual hawker staples such as
snapper, or chicken with cashews. Asian seafood noodles and less
153 & 155 Lebuh Pantai, common dishes such as “century
PENANG: Red Garden Food Georgetown eggs” porridge (rice gruel with
Paradise  Tel (04) 263-7299 gelatinous pickled eggs). It is
Chinese/East Asian Three beautifully restored best visited in the evening when
20 Lebuh Leith, Georgetown heritage buildings have been more of the stalls are open.
Tel (012) 421-6767 Closed lunch merged into a huge restaurant,
Phenomenally popular, this food nightspot, and gallery, a favorite TAIPING: Soon Lee 
court is packed with stalls meeting place for Penang’s Chinese
offering seafood, curries, satay, movers and shakers. The superb 11-15 Jalan Lim Swee Aun
and numerous rice and noodle food ranges from Middle Tel (05) 807-6624
dishes, including some Japanese Eastern wraps to delicious pies Taiping’s largest Chinese
fare. Wandering staff take orders and pan-Asian bento boxes; the restaurant has a chandeliered
for beer and soft drinks, and cakes are stunning, with at least main section specializing in
there are even Chinese song- two dozen varieties on offer at seafood, and a smaller vegetarian
and-dance acts on some nights. any time. There are jazz and area. Specialties include pig’s
acoustic live sets after 9pm. trotters and butter prawns. Ask
PENANG: Mugshot  the staff about the daily specials.
Western
302 Lebuh Chulia, Georgetown
Tel (012) 405-6276
A superb bakery and café,
Mugshot specializes in bagels
and artisan breads. A beef and
rocket bagel with their excellent
coffee or drinking yoghurt (with
unusual flavors such as jackfruit)
will set you up nicely for the day.
PENANG: Perut Rumah 

Peranakan (Nyonya)
17 Jalan Kelawei, Georgetown
Tel (04) 227-9917
Inside a suburban house is this
gorgeous dining hall with
geometrically patterned floor Sarkies restaurant in Penang’s prestigious E & O hotel

MELAKA: MELAKA: Eat at 18 Café 

Southern Peninsula Calanthe Art Café  Western
Malay 18 Jalan Hang Lekiu
JOHOR BAHRU: Hiap Joo Bakery 11 Jalan Hang Kasturi Tel (06) 281-4679 Closed eve; Tue
& Biscuit Factory  Tel (06) 292-2960 Closed Tue Excellent salads, light meals, and
Chinese Vinyl discs and recycled cans home-made desserts are served
13 Jalan Tan Hiok Nee decorate the interior of this trendy at this welcoming café filled with
Tel (07) 223-1703 Closed eve; Sun café and restaurant serving great artworks and books.
This historic bakery uses a coffee and classic dishes.
wood-fired oven to prepare a MELAKA: Eleven Bistro &
range of baked goods, including MELAKA: Capitol Satay  Restaurant 
coconut buns and banana cake. Malay Portuguese–Malay
41 Lorong Bukit China 9, 11, & 13 Jalan Hang Lekir
JOHOR BAHRU: Roost Juice & Tel (06) 283-5508 Closed lunch; Mon Tel (06) 282-0011
Bar  This is a great place to sample The food here combines the
International satay – grilled skewered fish, best of Portuguese and Malay
9 Jalan Dhoby Closed Sun lunch meat, or vegetables dipped in cuisines. The lively bar has a
With recycled furniture and bric- peanut sauce. DJ after 10pm.
a-brac (including a toy corner),
this unique café and restaurant MELAKA: MELAKA: Limau Limau 
serves great juices and a range of The Daily Fix Café  European
dishes such as beef noodles and Western 9 Jalan Hang Lekiu
Nyonya fish fillets. 55 Jalan Hang Jebat Tel (012) 698-4917 Closed eve; Wed
Tel (06) 283-4858 Closed eve; Tue Salads, sandwiches and juices are
JOHOR BAHRU: Carabao  Home-baked cakes and served at this tiny café with
Thai refreshing drinks are served at mismatched furniture.
16 Jalan Dato Abdullah Tahir this relaxed café located at the
Tel (07) 335-9333 back of a souvenir shop. MELAKA: Nancy’s
The lengthy menu includes Kitchen 
plenty of Thai favorites at this MELAKA: Jonker 88  Peranakan
open-fronted restaurant built Malay 7 Jalan Hang Lekir
with natural materials. 88 Jalan Hang Jebat Tel (06) 283-6099 Closed eve; Tue
Tel (019) 397-5665 This is the place to try traditional
JOHOR BAHRU: Try a bowl of tasty laksa Nyonya dishes, and there’s a little
Chez Papa  (noodles) followed by baba store at the back where customers
French cendol, a traditional Malay can buy Nyonya ingredients.
38 & 40 Jalan Jaya, Taman Maju Jaya dessert, at this popular eatery.
Tel (07) 333-4988 Closed Sun
Seating is at wooden tables or at MELAKA: Low Yong Moh  DK Choice
the bar in this atmospheric bistro Chinese MELAKA: Pak Putra 
and wine bar. The menu includes 32 Jalan Tukang Emas Indian
plenty of traditional rustic fare Tel (06) 282-1235 Closed eve; Tue 56 & 58 Jalan Kota Laksamana
such as stews, and there’s an Prawn, pork, and fish dim sum as Tel (012) 601-5876 Closed lunch;
extensive wine list. well as buns stuffed with pork are every other Mon
the specialties here. Closes at 1pm. This laid-back restaurant with
KUKUP: tables spilling onto the street
New Kukup Restaurant  MELAKA: Baboon House  serves exceptionally tasty
Chinese American dishes including mutton rogan
1 Kukup Laut 89 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock josh and chicken curries. The
Tel (07) 696-0216 Tel (06) 283-1635 Closed eve; Tue fluffy, super-fresh naan bread is
A large open-fronted restaurant This quirky art café with a highlight. It gets particularly
on the waterfront, New Kukup rustic furniture and artworks busy on weekend evenings so
specializes in seafood dishes decorating the walls specializes it’s wise to arrive early.
with stir-fried vegetables. in beefburgers.
MELAKA: Teo Soon Loong

Chan 
Chinese
55 Jalan Hang Kasturi
Tel (06) 282-2353
Traditional Teochew dishes are
served in an informal setting. The
oyster noodles are a favorite.
MELAKA: Veggie Planet 

Vegetarian
41 Jalan Melaka Raya 8, Taman
Melaka Raya
Tel (06) 292-2819
Organic dishes including Nyonya
curry and all manner of delicious
soups and salads are served at
Rustic interior and fun decor at the French Chez Papa, Johor Bahru this welcoming café.
MERSING: Syed Ali 

Indian/Malay
72–73 Jalan Sulaiman
Tel (016) 716-3124
The Indian and Malay dishes
at this self-service canteen-
style restaurant are among the
best in town.
MERSING: Loke Tien Yuen 

Chinese
55 Jalan Abu Bakar
Tel (07) 799-1639
This friendly restaurant has been
attracting custom for years.
The menu includes a good
range of seafood dishes.
SEREMBAN: Pasar Besar Tioman Cabana, a beach bar on Tioman Island

Market 
Mixed Asian KOTA BHARU: Medan Selera KUALA TERENGGANU: Vinum
Jalan Pasar Closed from 1:30pm Night Market  Exchange 
(noon on Tue) Asian Western
The local market is renowned Off Jalan Pintu Pong, Jalan Zainal 221 Jalan Kampung Cina
for its excellent beef noodle Abidin, Besut Closed lunch Tel (09) 638-1353
stands – stalls 648 and 742 are This night food market offers a One of the very few places in
particularly recommended. range of dishes including fish the city to serve alcohol, this
curry, murtabak (stuffed savory little drinking hole also serves
TIOMAN ISLAND: pancakes), and hearty oxtail soup. food such as pork chops as well
Sunset Bar  as coffee and pastries.
Western KOTA BHARU:
Air Batang (ABC) Closed lunch Shan Sri Devi  KUANTAN: Akob Patin
Popular for a sundowner, this South Indian House 
bustling beach bar serves snacks 4213F Jalan Kebun Sultan Malay
and good pizzas too. Tel (09) 746-2592 Tapak PCCL Jalan Besar
Popular with locals, this bustling Tel (019) 987-4463 Closed eve; Sun
TIOMAN ISLAND: Tioman restaurant specializes in tasty This river-front eatery specializes
Cabana  banana-leaf curries. in the local delicacy, patin (silver
International catfish) served with chili,
South Tekek KOTA BHARU: Muhibah  tamarind, and durian. Its sister
Tel (013) 717-6677 Vegetarian location is on Lorong Tun Ismail.
Great homemade burgers and a Jalan Pintu Pong
selection of freshly prepared Tel (09) 744-3668 KUANTAN: Tjantek Art
local dishes are served at this A café-bakery serves pastries Bistro 
relaxed beach bar with a while the restaurant offers Western
rustic feel. traditional Malay meat-free dishes. 46 Jalan Besar
Tel (09) 516-4144 Closed lunch; Sun
KUALA TERENGGANU: Asia One of Kuantan’s more
Signature  atmospheric establishments,
Eastern and Central Malay Tjantek Art Bistro has low lighting,
Peninsula 134 Jalan Sultan Zainal Abidin vintage artwork, and a simple
Tel (09) 620-5421 menu of pasta dishes and
CHERATING: Don’t Tell A handful of vegetarian versions sandwiches. No alcohol is served
Mama  of Malay classics and tasty dim but there are great freshly
Western sum are on the menu here. squeezed fruit juices.
BT28 Kampung, Cherating Lama
Tel (019) 996-1723 Closed lunch KUALA TERENGGANU: Madam PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Ewan’s
With a quirky interior and Bee’s Kitchen  Café 
chilled background music, this Peranakan Malay
surfer hangout serves tasty 177 Jalan Kampung Cina Coral Bay, Perhentian Kecil
cheese and chicken burgers, Tel (012) 988-7495 Closed Wed This bustling breezy restaurant
steak, fish and chips, salads, Local dishes such as loh mee (egg gets packed at lunchtime for its
pasta dishes, and sandwiches. noodles with chicken and crab) tasty Malay dishes with chicken,
feature at this intimate restaurant. vegetables, or prawns.
KOTA BHARU: Cikgu 
Malay KUALA TERENGGANU: Star PERHENTIAN ISLANDS:
Jalan Hilir Kota, Kampung Anise  Mandalika 
Kraftangan Chinese/Western Malay/Western
Tel (019) 946-6665 Closed eve; Fri 82 Jalan Kampung Cina Teluk Dalam, Perhentian Besar
Vegetable curry and catfish in Tel (017) 664-2368 At this laid-back beach shack
spicy sauce are among the Malay With outdoor seating in the heart there are nightly barbecues and
dishes at this laid-back self- of Chinatown, this café serves a wide-ranging menu which
service eatery. locally grown tea and great coffee. includes fish and chips.
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: BINTULU:

Panorama Café  DK Choice Riverfront Inn
Western TAMAN NEGARA: Seri Café 
Perhentian Kecil Mutiara  Western/Malay
A popular spot for evening International 256 Taman Sri Dagang
movie screenings, this place Mutiara Taman Negara Resort, Tel (086) 333-111
serves good pizzas. across the river from Kuala Tahan Part of a hotel, this is a reliable
Tel (09) 266-3500 option for Western standards
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: This open-fronted restaurant like spaghetti, burgers, and fish
Tuna Café  attracts visitors with its and chips, as well as hearty
Western extensive menu of Western, cooked breakfasts of sausage,
Perhentian Besar Chinese, Indian, and Malay beans, and eggs. They also do a
One of the best restaurants on favorites, including nasi lemak range of Malaysian dishes and
either of the islands, this open- (rice dish cooked in coconut are open for very late meals.
fronted eatery serves a variety of milk and pandan leaf ), pizza,
Western dishes and there are and T-bone steak. It’s a BRUNEI: Tarindak d’Seni $$
evening barbecues, too. particularly welcome treat after Malay
a few days of jungle trekking. Arts and Handicrafts Complex,
PERHENTIAN ISLANDS: Jalan Residency, Bandar Seri
World Café  Begawan
Western Tel (073) 224-0422
Long Beach, Pulau Perhentian Kecil This modern restaurant is the
Tel (03) 2142-6688 Sarawak best place to sample local food,
Grilled lobster and tasty with splendid lunch and dinner
sandwiches are among the BINTULU: Famous Mama buffets of curries, stir-fries, and
dishes on the menu at this Café  local kuih (puddings) as well as
bustling beachside café- Indian some Western desserts. One
restaurant. As it’s one of the best 10 Jalan Somerville offering that’s hard to find
places to eat on the island, it Tel (086) 336-541 elsewhere is ambuyat, a Bruneian
gets very busy at mealtimes Popular with young locals who delicacy of sago starch which is
and in the late afternoon, when come here to socialize over a dipped into various sauces .
people congregate here over meal or a drink or two, this
a sundowner. simple eatery serves very BRUNEI: Thiam Hock $$
good-value curries, biryani rice Chinese
dishes, and rotis. 5 Yong Siong Hai Building, Gadong,
DK Choice Bandar Seri Begawan
PULAU KAPAS: Koko’s  BINTULU: King Hua  Tel (073) 244-1679
Malay Chinese In the busy commercial suburb
T111, Western shore Jalan Keppel (lane close to Jalan of Gadong, this long-standing
Tel (010) 926-5088 Masjid) restaurant is popular for its
This excellent English–Malay- Tel (086) 337-255 signature dish of fish head in a
run beachside restaurant Humble, comfort food is served spicy tamarind sauce, its crispy
features rustic wooden tables at this popular restaurant. They’ll chicken, and a wide range of
and chairs on a powdery stretch happily cook up whatever noodle dishes.
of sand. The Malay chef rustles you feel like eating if they
up superb fresh fish, prawns, have the ingredients to hand. KUCHING: Aroma Café 
and squid cooked in a mouth- Otherwise, stick to the extensive Bornean
watering coconut sauce. His menu of seafood, meat, and Ground Floor Sublot 126, Jalan
friendly English partner waits vegetable dishes. Tabuan
on the tables. Tel (082) 417-163 Closed Sun
Try very reasonably priced local
dishes such as ayam pansoh
PULAU KAPAS: Kapas Turtle (chicken steamed in bamboo
Valley  tubes) and umai (raw fish salad)
International at this humble eatery. Portions
Southwestern shore are generous and the lunchtime
Tel (013) 354-3650 spread is particularly good value.
The excellent restaurant at this
small, secluded resort serves KUCHING: James Brooke
delicious wide-ranging dishes. Bistro & Café 
Western/Malay
TAMAN NEGARA: Floating Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, close to
Restaurants  the Hilton hotel
Asian/Western Tel (014) 520-4007
Riverfront, Kuala Tahan In a prime position facing the
On the to-do list for many visitors river, this popular open-sided
here is dining on one of the restaurant serves authentic local
“floating restaurants” – ramshackle dishes such as Sarawak laksa
timber structures on rafts. The (spicy noodle soup) and Western
food may not be of the highest standards such as beef
quality but it’s worth trying instead stroganoff. The veranda
for the experience and the An informal meal of oven-grilled meats and surrounding the restaurant
ridiculously low prices. tasty curries at Lyn’s Thandoori provides outside seating.
KUCHING:
Lyn’s Thandoori  DK Choice
Indian KUCHING: Jambu 
No. 7, Lot 267, Jalan Song Thian Cheok International
Tel (082) 234-934 32 Jalan Crookshank
The homey Lyn’s Thandoori Tel (082) 235-292 Closed lunch;
specializes, unsurprisingly, in Mon
Tandoori chicken, although Housed in a grand yet convivial
there’s also a wide range of colonial-era residence a little
mainly North Indian-style way south of the center, Jambu
curries and biryanis – including offers an eclectic menu that
chicken tikka masala and gobi includes Mexican, Italian, and
Manchurian (sweet-and-sour French cuisine as well as their
spiced cauliflower). own take on laksa – which is
very similar to the way it’s
KUCHING: My Village served in the south of
Barok  Peninsular Malaysia. There are
Bornean sweet treats too, including their
Jalan Brooke, Kampung Boyan, north trademark Moroccan date tart.
bank of the Sarawak River Ristorante Beccari, located in Kuching’s
Tel (082) 448-970 Closed lunch Merdeka Palace Hotel
Styled like a longhouse, this KUCHING: The Junk 
informal restaurant’s signature Western MIRI: Barcelona 
dish is ayam penyet – chicken 80 Jalan Wayang Western/Malay
tenderized and then fried. It Tel (082) 259-450 Closed lunch; Tue Lot 1190, Jalan North Yu Seng
also offers grilled seafood The junkstore-like decor echoes Tel (085) 413-388
dishes and fried rice with the the name of this popular eatery. This bar and bistro passes for a
olive-like dabai fruit, which is a Come here for standards such as major nightspot in central Miri,
Bornean delicacy. fish and chips or pizza, or, more and also serves a vast range of
ambitiously, lamb shank or pizzas and tapas dishes. For
KUCHING: Top Spot Food salmon gnocchi. There are rice- conservative local palates, they
Court  wine-based cocktails too. also do upmarket versions of
Chinese/Malay hawker favorites like nasi lemak
Jalan Padungan Closed lunch KUCHING: Ristorante and fried noodles.
The top floor of a multistory Beccari 
car park might seem an Italian MIRI: The Summit Café 
uninviting place to eat, but Merdeka Palace Hotel, Jalan Tun Bornean
this is one of the most delightful Abang Haji Openg Centre Point Phase 1, 1246 Jalan
dining spots in Kuching – packed Tel (082) 258-000 Melayu Closed eve; Sun
with stalls specializing in seafood Best known for its thin-crust At this restaurant serving food
cooked to order, as well as other pizzas cooked in a wood-fired from the Kelabit Highlands
dishes such as the crepe-like oven, Beccari also serves pasta dishes include smoked, shredded
oyster omelette. dishes and larger mains such wild boar and nuba laya, a sort of
as rack of lamb with gnocchi. steamed rice cake, plus the
KUCHING: Bla Bla Bla  On Sunday evenings there’s a Malaysian favorite, nasi lemak.
Asian–Western fusion massive buffet spread, with The café shuts once the day’s
27 Jalan Tabuan roasts and pasta, and food has sold out.
Tel (082) 233-944 Closed lunch; Tue cheesecake for dessert.
The courtyard water feature MULU: Mulu National Park
with its carp sets the tone at MIRI: Krishna’s  Café 
this chic restaurant. The house Indian Malay/Western
specialty is the superb Malaysian Jalan Kubu Mulu National Park headquarters
midin (fern) salad. The mozarella- Tel (085) 430-095 Tel (085) 792-300
stuffed ostrich is another menu This delightful, friendly restaurant Run privately like the rest of the
highlight. Other dishes include serves up enormous tasty park facilities, Mulu’s café turns
non-Asian ingredients such as portions of curries with rice and out to be one of the soundest
salmon. Desserts can be just as poppadoms, mostly eaten off places to eat in the remote
eclectic and include pavlova banana-leaf platters. Their settlement. There’s excellent and
and cheesecake. specialty is the prized Malaysian fiery Sarawak laksa, some Indian
delicacy, fish head curry. dishes, plus Western breakfasts,
KUCHING: sandwiches, and snacks.
The Carvery  MIRI: Puma Sera 
Brazilian Malay/Indonesian SIBU: Café Café 
Abell Hotel, 22 Jalan Tunku Abdul Jalan Maju Asian
Rahman Tel (013) 840-1868 10 Jalan Chew Geok Lin
Tel (082) 239-449 Puma Sera serves good-value Tel (084) 328-101 Closed Mon
Dedicated carnivores will delight curries, stir-fries, and stews. An unexpectedly smart two-story
in the all-you-can-eat churrasco Dishes include catfish curry, eatery right by the Rajang river,
barbecue buffet, featuring at ulam (traditional Malay salad), Café Café serves up local and
least nine types of lamb, chicken, and ayam lapanan – chicken more generally East Asian fare,
beef, and fish served on skewers. served with eight different including Malay beef rendang
Vegetarians can help themselves accompaniments including (curry) and Thai chicken salad,
to the salad buffet. condiments and rice. plus Western cakes for dessert.
SIBU: Hock Chu Leu  Suang Tain (meaning Twin Sky) is

Chinese DK Choice renowned for its crab dishes.
28 Jalan Tukang Besi KOTA KINABALU:
Tel (084) 316-524 Closed Tue El Centro  KOTA KINABALU:
Much of Sibu’s Chinese International Tam Nak Thai 
population emigrated from 32 Jalan Haji Saman Thai
Fuzhou city in southeast China, Tel (019) 893-5499 Third Floor, Suria Sabah Mall
and their ancestral cuisine is Popular with visitors and locals Tel (016) 832-9928 Closed Sun lunch
showcased at this very simple alike, this British-run restaurant Favorites such as green curry are
upstairs restaurant. The house serves hearty portions of served at this bustling eatery that
specialty is ang jow kai, a red international dishes infused gets very busy in the evenings.
chicken stew that gets its color with local flavors. Artworks
from the sediment in a particular decorate the cosy interior. KOTA KINABALU:
Chinese rice wine. Great for evening cocktails. Waterfront 
International
SIBU: Payung Café  Jalan Tun Fuad Stephens
Asian KOTA KINABALU: Grazie  Tel (088) 249-333
20F Jalan Lanang Italian The lively boardwalk lined with
Tel (016) 890-6061 Third Floor, Suria Sabah Mall cafés, restaurants, and bars
This down-to-earth, eclectically Tel (019) 821-6936 includes The Aussie, which
decorated restaurant offers The Italian dishes have an Asian specializies in barbecued
interesting twists on Southeast twist. Particularly good are the Australian meat dishes with
Asian fare. Try the mushroom wood-fired pizzas. Asian influences and Kohinoor,
rolls (based on Malaysian popiah, serving Indian cuisine.
steamed spring rolls) and the KOTA KIBANALU: Jarrod &
durian milkshake, made with the Rawlins  SANDAKAN: Nam Choon 
notoriously odorous fruit. Western Malay
KK Times Square Block A, Lot 2a, Old Slipway
Tel (088) 231-890 Tel (089) 216-922 Closed eve
This pub includes a deli selling This local favorite only serves
Sabah imported foodstuffs such as four dishes including chicken
sausages, cheeses, and steaks. rice and fish balls, served with
KINABALU NATIONAL PARK: complimentary tea.
Paanataran Kinabalu  KOTA KINABALU: Jothy’s
Asian Banana Leaf 
At the turning for the park HQ Indian DK Choice
Tel (088) 889-117 1/G9, Api-Api Centre SANDAKAN: Ba Lin 
Conveniently located for fueling Tel (088) 261-595 Western
up before a hike, this is a decent The South Indian curries here are Level 8, Nak Hotel, Jalan
restaurant serving Chinese and particularly good and use the Pelahuban Lama
Malay dishes, with a handful of freshest meat, fish, and seafood. Tel (089) 272-988
Western snacks and breakfasts on The rooftop bar and restaurant
offer too. KOTA KINABALU: Suang Tain on the 8th floor of this modern,
Seafood Restaurant  rather unassuming hotel is a
KINABALU NATIONAL PARK: Malay pleasant surprise. The stylish
Balsam  Sedco Complex, Jalan Kampung Air 4 setting offers good views of
International Tel (088) 223-080 Sandakan. The menu, which
Within the park HQ A local favorite that has been looks like a newspaper, includes
The varied buffet consisting of going strong since the 1980s, great brunches, along with
Indian, Malay, Chinese, and superb pizzas and pasta,
Western dishes is popular and meat dishes.
among hiking groups; perhaps
because of this, it is on the
pricey side. SANDAKAN: English Tea
House 
KOTA KINABALU: Jesselton British
Point Hawker Centre  2002 Jalan Istana
Asian Tel (089) 222-544
Jesselton Point, Jalan Haji Saman A colonial-style restaurant with
Locals pour into this hawker a croquet lawn, English Tea
center in the evenings to enjoy House serves staples such as
the tasty street food on offer, shepherd’s pie and afternoon tea
including satay and fried fish. with scones and jam.
KOTA KINABALU: SANDAKAN: Sim Sim Seafood

Night Market  Restaurant 
Mixed Asian Malay
Jalan Tun Fuad Bridge 8, Sim Sim Water Village
Stephens Closed lunch Tel (012) 842-7131 Closed Wed
When the sun sets the sellers Renowned for its top-quality
here set up their stalls, packing fresh seafood, this restaurant
them with exotic fruits, fresh fish, Fish head curry, a popular Malay delicacy on stilts is a popular choice
and barbecued meats. with Indian and Chinese origins among locals.
SANDAKAN: Taste 
Western
Lot 2-3, Block 9, Bandar Indah, Mile 4
Tel (012) 818-1819 Closed lunch
This bar and steakhouse serves
various Western-style dishes,
although it’s mainly known for its
range of local and imported
alcoholic drinks.
SEMPORNA: Anjung Lepa 

Malay
Seafest Hotel, Jalan Kastam
Tel (089) 782-333 Closed lunch
On the waterfront terrace, this
restaurant with outdoor seating
offers fried rice and noodle
options, as well as a handful of
seafood dishes. Low-rise seating emphasizing the magnificent Art Deco setting of Clifford Pier
SEMPORNA: Mabul Café and Lee Tong Kee $ Sky on 57 $$

Seafood Restaurant  Chinese Map 4 C4 Asian–French Fusion Map 5 F3
Malay 278 South Bridge Road Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront
Semporna Seafront Tel 6226-0417 Closed Mon eve, Tue Avenue
Tel (089) 781-785 The specaility here is Ipoh-style Tel 6688-8857
Dishes in generous portions hor fun (tagliatelle-style wide Offering a panoramic view of
including stir-fried chicken, rice noodles). They come with Singapore and the bay, this fine-
prawns, and squid with rice are chicken and prawns, or beef. The dining restaurant in the Marina
served here. The service can be signature sweet-salty lime juice Bay Sands hotel serves innovative
a little erratic. makes a good accompaniment. Franco-Asian dishes such as king
prawn laksa, halibut in a Thai-
SEMPORNA: Maxwell Food Centre $ style green curry with wild rice,
Scuba Junkie  Asian Map 4 C4 and lamb in an Asian pesto
Western Corner of Maxwell Road and South with artichokes.
36 Semporna Seafront Bridge Road Closed eve
Tel (089) 785-372 It can be hot and stuffy, but this Spizza $$
Aimed at the dive crowd, this is one of the most popular Italian Map 5 D4
New Zealand-run establishment hawker centers in Singapore. One 29 Club Street
has a lively bar, great pizzas, or two stalls are locally famous Tel 6224-2525
sandwiches, burgers, and salads. (Tian Tian has people lining up This modern restaurant has a
for its chicken rice); others serve different thin-crust pizza for
excellent Indonesian curries and every letter of the alphabet, from
Chinese noodle dishes. the very traditional to one
Singapore slathered in chocolate spread
Annalakshmi Janatha $$ and banana. Pasta, gnocchi, and
Colonial Core and Indian Vegetarian Map 5 D4 lasagne are on the menu too.
Chinatown 104 Amoy Street
Tel 6223-0809 Closed eve; Sun Tak Po $$
Bee Heong Palace $ At this restaurant run by Chinese Map 4 C4
Chinese Map 5 D4 volunteers there is a superb 42 Smith St
134 Telok Ayer Street buffet spread of curries, plain Tel 6225-0302
Tel 6222-9074 Closed Mon and biryani rice, samosas, south Order steamed pork ribs,
Specializing in Hokkien cuisine Indian specialties such as vadai dumplings, rice porridge, and
from southeast China, this (savory donuts), plus sweets and more substantial dishes by
restaurant serves dishes such fruit for dessert. There are no set ticking boxes on the slips of
as kong bak, buns stuffed with prices – you pay what you feel paper handed out at this
braised pork belly, and delightful your meal was worth, and reasonably priced dim sum
rolls made with minced prawns proceeds go to an Indian restaurant. The custard tarts
and pork. cultural organization. make an excellent dessert.
Lau Pa Sat $ Clifford Pier $$ Urban Bites $$

Asian Map 5 D4 Asian/Western Map 5 E3 Middle Eastern Map 5 D4
18 Raffles Quay 80 Collyer Quay 161 Telok Ayer Street
Beneath the Victorian wrought- Tel 6597-5266 Tel 6327-9460 Closed Mon & Wed
iron arches of the old Teluk Ayer In a superb setting beneath the eve
market, this is the most visually lofty arched ceiling of the old Art Although plainer than its rivals,
appealing of Singapore’s hawker Deco boat terminal, Clifford Pier’s this is the best Lebanese
centers. Stalls serve up the usual menu is dominated by a refined, restaurant in town. The meze
mix of Chinese, Malay, and Indian modern take on traditional and kebabs are terrific, and they
food, with some Japanese, dishes. Menu highlights include also serve manakeesh, delicious
Korean, and Indochinese fare too. laksa, steamed spring rolls, and chewy flatbreads topped with
In the evenings, a row of satay bak kut teh (pork rib soup). Pasta herbs or cheese. Crepes and
stalls sets up outside. and fish and chips figure too. baklava are among the desserts.
hams and chorizos. The wine list stone’s throw from the Masjid
is just as vast, encompassing Sultan. Order rice or noodles
sangria, sherries, and a profusion cooked to order, or choose from
of cocktails. No reservations. an excellent spread of curries and
stir-fries, and wash it down with
Shiraz $$$ teh tarik (frothy, sweet milky tea).
Middle Eastern Map 4 C2
3A River Valley Road, 01–06 Clarke Newton Food Center $
Quay Asian Map 2 B2
Tel 6334-2282 500 Clemenceau Avenue North
A contemporary Persian This is popular with tourists for its
restaurant, Shiraz serves large numerous open-air stalls and
flavorsome kebabs, including closeness to Orchard Road,
some based on seafood rather although prices are a little above
than the usual chicken or lamb, average as a result. The food is
on fragrant saffron rice. There is generally excellent and wide-
belly-dancing on some nights. ranging: satay, oyster omelette,
and sup kambing (Malay mutton
Supertree by Indochine $$$ stew), plus seafood are sold by
Indonesian Map 5 F4 weight. More stalls open in the
#03-01, Gardens By The Bay, evening than for lunch.
Elegant, minimalist interior at the 18 Marina Gardens Drive
lofty 1-Altitude Tel 6694-8489 Warung M Nasir $
Perched atop the tallest Supertree Indonesian Map 2 B5
(the metal towers in Gardens by 69 Killiney Road
DK Choice the Bay whose sides are planted Tel 6734-6228
1-Altitude $$$ with climbers), this restaurant A tiny, modern café, Warung M
European Map 5 D3 offers great views of Marina Bay. Nasir has long been highly rated
Levels 61–63, One Raffles Place The lychee pork beignets and for traditional dishes such as beef
Tel 6438-0410 Closed lunch Vietnamese rolls stuffed with rendang, ayam balado (tangy
There’s no more amazing prawns and herbs show why it spiced chicken), and tempeh
setting for a meal than this has been going strong for years. (fermented soya cakes, prepared
swanky 62nd-floor restaurant in a variety of ways). Desserts are
with stunning views. Menus both traditional and Western.
change regularly, but expect Little India and
the likes of lamb with eggplant Orchard Road Banana Leaf Apolo $$
and hazelnut purée, or truffle Indian Map 5 D3
gnocchi. There is also a rooftop Ah Chew Desserts $ 54 Race Course Road
alfresco bar on the 63rd floor. Chinese Map 3 E5 Tel 6293-8682
#01-11,1 Liang Seah Street As the name suggests, this
Tel 6339-8198 friendly eatery majors on
Bacchanalia $$$ The desserts make extensive use banana-leaf meals, with staff
Fusion Map 5 D2 of snowy crushed ice, syrups, and ladling out South Indian mutton,
Freemasons’ Hall, 23A Coleman St ingredients surprising to Western fish, or chicken curries onto leaf
Tel 6509-1453 Closed Sun palates such as pulses. Here you “plates”, along with rice and
Portions are designed for can try a vast selection, including accompaniments. They’re famed
sampling, so order, for example, pulot hitam (black glutinous rice for their fish head curry, and
three main courses for two in coconut milk) and peanut paste there’s plenty for vegetarians too.
people. The belly pork with (like peanut butter, only a broth).
cabbage, apple, and capers is a
trademark dish. Haji Maimunah $
Malay Map 3 E4
Flutes $$$ 11 & 15 Jalan Pisang
European Map 5 D1 Tel 6297-4294 Closed Sun
Ground floor, National Museum, Truely authentic Malay food (as
93 Stamford Road opposed to superficially similar
Tel 6338-8770 Indonesian fare) can be hard to
This elegant eatery offers find. This plain kedai kopi does the
beauifully crafted dishes such genuine article, including
as lobster bolognaise and, for delicacies such as spicy snails in
Sunday lunch, English roast beef coconut milk, plus a good range
with all the trimmings. From of kuih, Malay sweetmeats based
Friday to Sunday they are also on glutinous rice, tapioca, and
open for afternoon teas of other tropical ingredients. May
sandwiches, scones, and quiche. close during Ramadan.
Sabio $$$ Kampong Glam Café $

Spanish Map 4 C4 Malay Map 3 F4
5 Duxton Hill 17 Bussorah Street
Tel 6690-7562 Tel 6294-1697
At this compact, Spanish-owned Few places to socialize and
venue there is a huge range of people-watch are more Comfy seating at Bacchanalia, which serves
authentic high-quality tapas, plus endearing than this kedai kopi, a plates for sharing
For key to prices see page 290
Bistro Du Vin $$
French Map 1 F2
#01-14 Shaw Centre, 1 Scotts Road
Tel 6733-7763
The contemporary, informal
Bistro du Vin serves up good-
value dishes such as onion soup,
duck leg confit, and coq au vin.
There are tasty desserts too,
including an impressive Grand
Marnier soufflé.
Chao Shan Cuisine $$

Chinese Map 3 E5
85 Beach Road
Tel 6336-2390
Specializing in Teochew cuisine
from southeast China, this
unpretentious family-run eatery Massaman chicken curry with Thai-style pancake, a signature dish at Thai Express
serves classics such as roast
goose, but the chef will cook salads, pasta, crepes, and the evening buffets. They cover street
anything to order as long as they obligatory rösti. Each customer is food perennials (such as carrot
have the ingredients. given a plastic card which stores cake – a savory dish of rice flour
all their orders. and white radish fried in egg),
Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Malay and Indian standards (satay,
Long Bao $$ Saravanaa Bhavan $$ roti), and some Peranakan fare.
Chinese Map 2 A4 Indian Vegetarian Map 3 E2
#04-27 Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard 84 Syed Alwi Road
Road Tel 6297-7755 Farther Afield
Tel 6238-1661 This is a branch of a chain that Food Republic $
Shanghai and northern Chinese started in Chennai and extends Asian
cuisine: the xiao long bao of the beyond Tamil food to offer dishes Level 3, VivoCity mall, 1 Harbourfront
name are delectable Shanghai- like bisibelabath (a rice, lentil, and Walk
style steamed pork buns. They’re vegetable concoction from Tel 6276-0521
also known for la mian, traditional Karnataka). The menu includes Food Republic is a food-court
hand-stretched noodles. biryanis, uthappam (something chain that prides itself on selecting
between a crepe and a pizza), hawkers based on culinary sklll.
Herbivore $$ and north Indian curries too. Their outlet at the gateway to
Japanese Vegetarian Map 3 D4 Sentosa has scissor-cut curry rice
1-13 Fortune Centre, 190 Middle Road Thai Express $$ (a food spread where you order
Tel 6333-1612 Thai Map 2 C4 by pointing and someone cuts
This exemplary modern restaurant #03-24 Plaza Singapura, 68 Orchard up the rice portion with scissors
manages to offer a full range of Road for ease of eating), good
Japanese food using soy and Tel 6339-5442 Indonesian nasi padang (steamed
other meat substitutes. The set The menu at this modern rice dishes), and much more.
meal platters are particularly restaurant is dominated by one-
recommended. It gets busy at bowl dishes of noodles (notably Guan Hoe Soon $$
weekends, when they may not Thai laksas) or rice with red or Peranakan
take reservations. green curry. There are plenty of 38/40 Joo Chiat Place, Katong
veggie options and side dishes Tel 6344-2761
Kiseki $$ such as battered crab. Katong is the Singapore suburb
Japanese Map 2 B4 where Peranakan culture still has
#08-01 Orchard Central, 181 Orchard PS Café $$$ a toehold, and this is one of the
Road Internationl Map 1 F2 best restaurants for the cuisine.
Tel 6736-1216 Level 2, Palais Renaissance, 390 Sample classics like bak wan
The sumo wrestler statue at the Orchard Road kepiting (crab and pork balls),
entrance hints at what can happen Tel 9834-8232 chap chye (a vegetable and
to waistlines here: buffet tables In what resembles a glasshouse, fungus stir-fry), and otak otak
groan with everything from PS Café has long been known for (slivered, spicy dumplings).
sashimi to yakitori, and there’s an well-presented, creative cooking.
equally impressive dessert Brunches are hearty – try the Samy’s $$
section. Note that pricing on superfood salad of blueberries, Indian
weekends is nearly double the almonds, and quinoa, or spicy Block 25, Dempsey Road, close to the
weekday lunch cost. crab tart – but it’s hard to go Botanic Gardens
wrong here at any time of day. Tel 6472-2080 Closed Tue
Marché $$ There are few more atmospheric
Swiss Map 2 B4 Straits Kitchen $$$ places to have a traditional Indian
Basement, 313@Somerset, 313 Chinese/Peranakan Map 2 A3 meal on banana-leaf platters
Orchard Road Grand Hyatt Hotel, 10 Scotts Road than here, under whirring ceiling
Tel 6834-4041 Tel 6738-1234 fans at a former British military
Each counter specializes in The very best in Singapore base. Both north and south
a different item at this cooking is offered under one roof Indian food is available, but it is
delicatessen-style restaurant: with the extravagant lunch and best known for fish head curry.
SHOPPING IN MALAYSIA
Malaysia is an affluent country with a rapidly notably Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Johor
developing economy and Malaysians love to Bahru, offering sophisticated malls, and the
shop. There is an astonishing variety of smaller east coast cities, such as Kota Bharu
shopping options, from the latest electronic and Kuala Terengganu, acting as the
gadgets to a wealth of traditional art and repository of Malay artistry, especially batik,
handicraft items. Differences exist between colorful kites, and shadow puppets. Sarawak
the range, quality, and prices available in the and Sabah in Malaysian Borneo are unrivaled
various regions, with the large cities on the for their array of ethnic products, skilfully
western coast of Peninsular Malaysia, crafted by the indigenous people.
Department Stores and malls have fast-food outlets, Local Markets (Tamus)
Shopping Malls while the upmarket ones also and Stalls
Shopping malls, ranging from feature expensive restaurants. Malaysia is brimming with local
modest establishments to Many have multiplex movie markets, or tamus. Almost every
plush, air-conditioned, theaters, food courts, Internet town and village has at least
multistory buildings, are cafés, and branches of banks one bustling central market,
ubiquitous in Malaysian towns with facilities such as money usually containing a multitude
and cities. They contain a mix of changing and ATMs. Malls in of stalls offering a bewildering
large department stores that sell west coast cities, especially selection of goods, from local
branded goods, supermarkets those in Kuala Lumpur, compare crafts to clothes and household
offering both local and imported with the glitziest outlets in the items. Very often there is also a
food, and dozens of smaller Western countries and are an wet market selling fresh meat,
shops that stock everything excellent source of a wide range fruits, and vegetables.
from mobile phones, computers, of international luxury brands. Numerous hawker stalls offer an
electronic goods, and English Besides those in the malls, there array of local delicacies. Prices
and Malay books, to a wealth of are several independent are reasonable, the quality is
souvenirs, clothes, shoes, and department stores, such as generally good, and standards
accessories, such as bags and Kuala Lumpur’s Isetan, which is of hygiene are very high, even
watches. Nearly all shopping part of a Japanese chain. in fish markets, which are
regularly hosed.
Another enduringly popular
feature and a highlight for
many of a trip to Malaysia are its
pasar malams, or night markets.
The most fascinating of these
are in Kuala Lumpur (see pp62–
83), Johor Bahru (see p134),
Penang (see pp106–15), Kuching
(see pp160–63), and Kota
Kinabalu (see p184).
Most state capitals and the
larger towns of Malaysia and
Singapore often have ethnic
enclaves, such as Chinatown
and Little India, which are
excellent places to buy Chinese
and Indian products.
Shopping Hours
Business hours for shops can
vary substantially throughout
Malaysia, but most establish-
ments are open from 9am to
6:30pm, Monday to Saturday.
Malls and major emporia open
later, usually between 10am and
10:30am and stay open longer,
until 9:30pm or 10pm. Most
The Sungei Wang Plaza in Kuala Lumpur’s Golden Triangle (see p306) major malls are open seven
S H O P P I N G I N M A L AY S I A 303
days a week. Shops in the

conservative Islamic east coast
states of Kelantan and
Terengganu are closed on
Friday, the Muslim Sabbath.
Methods of Payment
Cash is universally accepted
and a few places in major cities
also take US dollars and euros.
However, money changers are
found everywhere. Credit cards
are widely accepted except in
the smallest of stores. The
preferred cards include VISA,
MasterCard, and JCB, while Fresh fish sold at a market in Tawau, Sabah
larger establishments also
accept American Express and Bargaining Guarantees
Diners Club cards. A very small In Malaysia, bargaining is an Buyers should always be careful
number of shops levy a service accepted practice. However, with their selection at the time
charge, but this is becoming whether to bargain or not of purchase to avoid problems
less common. depends on the kind of market later. Most government shops
shoppers are in. Top-end and large department stores
department stores, shopping will accept the return of faulty
Sales Tax malls, and government goods, but it might not be
Malaysia charges a 6 percent emporia have fixed prices, as easily done for products
Goods and Services Tax (GST). though the latter offer good bought at street stalls, especially
For food and accommodation, fixed-price deals. antique shops that are not
however, customers can In most local markets and recommended or guaranteed
expect to pay a service tax stalls, bargaining is not just by the government.
of 10 percent at luxury hotels accepted but is also expected.
and restaurants, in addition Buyers can often obtain a
to the government tax of substantial reduction in the Photography
6 percent. Malaysia has some original price. Remember to Malaysia, like Singapore, tends
designated duty-free areas, keep the exchange polite and to be at the cutting edge of
including Pulau Langkawi in good-natured, and if a keen photographic technology. Deals
the west and Pulau Labuan in price is important to you, it is are just as great as in Singapore,
the east, designed to attract always a good idea to browse and sometimes better, due to
shoppers. There are also in several shops and know the good exchange rates. The range
duty-free areas in Kelantan fair price of the product you of products is excellent, though
at Rantau Panjang and wish to buy before you begin digital technology has swept
Pengkalan Kubur, as well as in negotiating. A good rule of aside slide film. Print film
Kedah at Padang Besar and thumb is to offer half the initial remains available, and film-
Bukit Kayu Hitam. price and go from there. developing facilities are
ubiquitous, fast, and cheap.
Imitations
Although the sale of imitation
goods and knock-offs is illegal
in Malaysia, and there is a
growing clampdown on the
sale of illicit goods, such
products continue to be sold at
small stores and stalls. Since
most of these products are very
cheap and of poor quality and
because such trade breaches
property rights, the purchase of
fakes, such as faux designer
bags, clothing, and illegal copies
of VCDs and DVDs, although
A shopping street in Kuala Lumpur at night tempting, is best avoided.
What to Buy in Malaysia

Glitzy shopping malls, bustling local markets, vibrant pasar
malams (night markets), and small craft shops across Malaysia
offer a good range of souvenirs for visitors to take home.
Traditionally styled Malay, Chinese, and Indian artifacts are
widely available; however, some craft items are restricted to
specific regions. The country can boast an astonishing range
of products, including antique furniture, ikat cloth, batik
prints, woodcarvings, and shadow puppets, besides Visitors at a chic shopping mall in
handicraft items produced by indigenous people. Kuala Lumpur
Malay Products
With the rising demand for ethnic Malay goods, aided by Wayang Kulit
Malaysia’s thriving tourism and patronage offered by the Shadow puppet theater,
country’s leading banks and oil companies, art in Malaysia or wayang kulit, is a
is flourishing as never before. Malay goods are available Malay folk art
almost everywhere, but are especially visible in Kuala whose traditions
Lumpur, Johor Bahru, Kelantan, and Terengganu. are passed on
orally. These
Silverware colorful leather
The best Malay silverware, puppets are
with its trademark filigree available in
embellishments, is produced Kelantan and
in Terengganu and Kelantan. Kuala Lumpur.
These areas specialize in belt
buckles and tobacco boxes.
Batik Fabric
Malay batik uses
wax and dyes to
print on fabrics.
Shirts, skirts, and
sarongs in batik-print
are best bought from Songket Silk Fabrics
Malaysia’s east coast. Belonging to the brocade family of textiles,
songket is hand-woven on looms and features
elaborate patterns created with a gold and
Kites silver weft.
While the principal designs of
traditional Malay kites are
derived from nature,
decorations are
unique to each Ceramic Items
craftsman. Kite- Shaped by
making shops can hand, pottery
be found in is produced in
villages along the Selangor and Perak.
east coast of Ayer Itam, a small town
Peninsular in Peninsular Malaysia, is
Malaysia. known for its pottery and
porcelain crafts. The Cameron Highlands are
also a good place to buy ceramics.
Masks
Traditionally, Malaysian and Southeast Asian masks
represent people, demons, and deities. They are
cultural icons that help preserve tradition, religion,
and history. Malay ceremonial masks are commonly
available in Melaka.
Products from Malaysian Borneo

Sabah and Sarawak are unrivaled for items crafted
by indigenous people and by Malay Christians,
including fine ikat cloth, shamanistic religious
paraphernalia, and woodcarvings.
Ikat Design
Often a symbol of status and power, ikat,
meaning to tie in Malay, is a style of weaving
created by dyeing the warp. The best ikat is
produced in Sarawak.
Woodcarvings
Woodcarvings depicting
people, spirits, and animals
Bamboo Products in the shamanistic tradition
Items made of bamboo, palm leaf, and rattan, including are widely available in
finely woven baskets and hats, are available in bazaars Kuching, Kota Kinabalu,
throughout Sarawak and Sabah. and at Selangor’s small
Orang Asli Museum.
Chinese Products
Good Luck Charms
Malaysia is especially popular for locally Chinese good luck
produced Peranakan or Straits Chinese goods, charms in bright,
including antique furniture and ceramics. attractive colors make
Standard Chinese wares are imported from Hong cheap and fun
Kong and the Chinese mainland. purchases. They are
available almost
everywhere.
Chinese Antique
Furniture Chinese Ceramics
Antique furniture of Baba-Nyonya vases,
the Baba-Nyonya which are unique to
tradition, made from Malaysia, and
hardwood with imported china-
exquisite carvings, is ware are available
available in Melaka, in big retail out-
where Jalan Hang lets in Melaka, on
Jebat (see p130) is a the west cost of
treasure-house for Peninsular Malaysia.
antique lovers.
Indian Products
Brassware
Indian enclaves in Penang, Kuala Lumpur, and Fine brass goods, a Tamil
Johor Bahru exude a heady aroma of spices and tradition transplanted to
have several authentic silk stores recreating an Malaysia, comprise house-
ambience similar to that in southern Indian states. hold objects, decorative
ware, and religious items.
Indian Silk Sarees

Traditional
southern Indian Indian Spices
kanchipuram silk Spices, such as
sarees are available pepper, carda-
in the fabric stores mom, saffron,
of Little India in cloves, mace,
Georgetown as well nutmeg, and
as in shopping cinnamon, are
malls across widely available
Malaysia. in Malaysia.
Where to Shop
There are good shops just about everywhere in Malaysia, from
big cities on the peninsula to smaller towns and villages in
Malaysian Borneo. The larger metropolises, especially Kuala
Lumpur, Penang, Johor Bahru, and Kuching, have fantastic
malls selling a fine range of products. The smaller east coast
cities, such as Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu, are the
center of traditional Malay arts and crafts, while Sarawak and
Sabah are unrivaled for their ethnic goods.
Kuala Lumpur great bargains, with the Globe

The main shopping areas in Silk Store popular for tailor- An antiques store displaying Peranakan
Kuala Lumpur are around Bukit made clothes. The street springs artifacts, Melaka
Bintang and Jalan Sultan Ismail to life at night with a pasar
in the heart of the Golden malam. Jalan Petaling (see p70) Pulau Langkawi
Triangle. Major malls here is great for bargain hunting. One of the major attractions of
include Bukit Bintang Plaza, Pulau Langkawi is its status as a
Lot 10, Starhill Gallery, and the duty-free shopping zone. The
huge Pavilion KL. Sungei Wang Penang island’s capital, Kuah, is where
Plaza and Low Yat Plaza, also in After Kuala Lumpur, the best most duty-free shops are
the Golden Triangle, specialize place to shop is Penang, with located. Popular outlets include
in electronic goods. Among the outlets selling local crafts, the Langkawi Fair Shopping
upmarket malls, Suria KLCC in antiques, and electronic items Mall and the Jetty Point Duty-
the Petronas Towers (see p78) is at competitive prices. Jalan Free Complex, both in Kuah.
popular, and the Mid Valley Penang is the best shopping The Zon Duty Free Shopping
Megamall is worth visiting. street in Georgetown, with Paradise at Pantai Cenang and
Publika is also a good addition Komtar, a shopping mall located Sunmall at Pantai Tengah are
to KL’s shopping scene. Perhaps in a massive 56-story building, worth visiting, although they
the best market in Malaysia for and Chowrasta Bazaar for mainly stock cosmetics,
tourists is Central Market, spices. The five-story Queensbay cigarettes, and alcohol.
which sells local souvenirs. Mall in Penang is the largest
There is a great variety of batik mall in northern Malaysia. Little
and handicraft goods for sale at India (see p108) offers an array of Melaka
Kompleks Budaya Kraf (see p81). southern Indian products, while The restored Chinese district in
The market at Jalan Tuanku Batu Ferringhi (see p114) has a Melaka is the place to look for
Abdul Rahman (see p76) offers vibrant night market. antiques, both genuine and
imitation, as well as all kinds of
Chinese and Peranakan goods.
Jalan Hang Jebat (see p130) sells
beautiful porcelain, coins, old
lamps, songket fabric, and
antique furniture. There is a
range of handicraft and souvenir
shops in Taman Merdeka
and a pasar malam on Jalan
Paramesawara. The Mahkota
Parade shopping complex on
Jalan Merdeka is Melaka’s largest
shopping venue.
Johor Bahru
Regarded as one of Malaysia’s
most prosperous towns, Johor
Bahru is located across the
causeway from Singapore,
whose citizens often come to
shop, notably at Justco Terbau
Shopping Mall, Pelangi Leisure
Mall, Perling Mall, and Plaza
Jalan Petaling, the commercial heart of Chinatown, Kuala Lumpur Pelangi in Johor Bahru. All these
malls specialize in designer Kuching, Sarawak Kota Kinabalu, Sabah

goods, clothing, luxury goods, Kuching is one of Malaysia’s best The capital of Sabah, Kota
and accessories. Johor shopping destinations, rivaled Kinabalu, has several local
Premium Outlets is a popular only by Penang and Melaka. handicraft shops selling goods
factory outlet in the Iskandar The city is filled with stores of reasonable quality. The
Malaysia zone. selling souvenirs, ikat cloth, and Filipino Market (see p185) at
Asian antiques. It also special- the waterfront is the best
izes in artifacts made by market and sells basketware
Kota Bharu and indigenous peoples. Jalan and colorful woven ponchos.
Kuala Terengganu Satok’s Sunday market sells a The products on display
The east coast of Peninsular variety of crafts and fresh serve as a reminder of how
Malaysia abounds with shops produce. Demonstrations of much closer Sabah is to
selling traditional Malay crafts these crafts are held daily at the Philippines than to
such as batik and songket fabric, Sarawak Handicraft Center. Peninsular Malaysia.
silverware, woodcarvings, and
colorful kites. The handicraft
workshops along the road to
Pantai Cahaya Bulan and
Kompleks Bazaar Buluh Kubu
in Kota Bharu are good stops for
their displays of batik items.
In Kuala Terengganu, Jalan
Bandar near the Central Market
has several small shops selling
local handicrafts and batik cloth,
which are open on all days
except on Fridays. The Noor
Arfa Craft Complex is also a
favorite for traditional crafts,
especially batik and songket. Woman selling batik silk in the new Central Market in Kota Bharu
DIRECTORY
Kuala Lumpur Publika Langkawi Fair Pelangi Leisure Mall
Jalan Dutamas 1, Shopping Mall Jalan Serampang Teman
Bukit Bintang Plaza Hartamas Heights. Persian Putra, Kuah. Pelangi.
Jalan Bukit Bintang. Map Tel (03) 6205-2768. Tel (04) 969-8100. ∑ allmalaysia.info
5 C3. Tel (03) 4252-1781. ∑ publika.com.my
∑ allmalaysia.info Sunmall Perling Mall
Starhill Gallery Jalan Teluk Baru. Jalan Persisiran Perling.
Central Market ∑ starhillgallery.com Tel (07) 955-8300. ∑ perlingmall.com.my
Jalan Hang Kasturi. ∑ sungrouplangkawi.
Map 4 E2. Tel (03) 2274- Sungei Wang Plaza com Plaza Pelangi
6542. ∑ centralmarket. 99 Bukit Bintang. Map 6 Jalan Kuning.
D3. Tel (03) 2144-9988. Zon Duty Free Tel (07) 276-2216.
com.my
∑ sungeiwang.com Shopping Paradise
Globe Silk Store Pantai Cenang. Kota Bharu
185 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Penang Tel (04) 955-6100. and Kuala
Rahman. Map 1 B5. Terengganu
Tel (03) 2692-2888. Chowrasta Bazaar Melaka
∑ allmalaysia.info Jalan Penang, Penang. Kompleks Bazaar
Mahkota Parade
Komtar 1 Jalan Merdeka.
Buluh Kubu
Lot 10
Jalan Penang. Tel (06) 282-6151. Central Market, Kota Bharu.
Map 6 D2.
∑ allmalaysia.info ∑ allmalaysia.info ∑ allmalaysia.info
∑ ytlcommunity.com
Queensbay Mall Noor Arfa Craft
Low Yat Plaza Johor Bahru
∑ queensbaymall Complex
Lot 7, Jalan 1/77.
malaysia.com Johor Premium Chendering Terengganu.
Tel (03) 2148-3651.
Outlets ∑ virtualmalaysia.com
∑ plazalowyat.com
Pulau Langkawi ∑ premiumoutlets.
Mid Valley Megamall com.my Kuching, Sarawak
∑ midvalley.com.my Jetty Point Duty-Free
Complex Justco Terbau Sarawak Handicraft
Pavilion KL ∑ jettypointlangkawi. Shopping Mall Center
168 Jalan Bukit Bintang. com/dutyfree_shops. Tel (07) 354-2131. ∑ sarawakhandicraft.
∑ pavilion-kl.com htm ∑ justco.com.my com.my
ENTERTAINMENT IN MALAYSIA
Entertainment in Malaysia can range from a night-time revelry with a variety of nightclubs
traditional dance performance by the and karaoke bars. Malaysia’s festivals through
indigenous Iban people to the hip nightclubs the year (see pp56–9) are often accompanied
in Kuala Lumpur. As the capital, Kuala Lumpur by traditional performing arts. Theme parks,
boasts a wide choice of entertainment, such as LEGOLAND® Malaysia near Johor Bahru,
including theater, concerts, and art exhibitions. are a great way to enjoy an all-day outing with
However, state capitals such as Johor Bahru, children, while cinema enthusiasts can watch
Kuching, and Kota Kinabalu also cater for the latest Hollywood films at multiplexes.
information on Kuala Lumpur’s

other art galleries it is best to
visit the Kakiseni website.
Theme Parks
Peninsular Malaysia has several
theme parks that offer exciting
all-day amusement for the
entire family. Children especially
enjoy the action-packed
environment. The newest,
opening in 2016, is Twentieth
Century Fox World, the film
Contemporary artwork at the National Art Gallery (see p77), Kuala Lumpur brand’s first theme park and
part of Malaysia’s Resorts World
Event Listings Art Exhibitions Genting, an hour outside of
For comprehensive listings of There are several art halls in Kuala Lumpur. The large park
current and upcoming events Kuala Lumpur, which host will feature more than 25 rides
including art exhibitions, frequently changing exhibitions. and attractions based on Fox
theatrical performances, and The National Art Gallery (see films such as Ice Age, Rio, Planet
concerts in Kuala Lumpur, p77) showcases works of over of the Apes, and Night at the
check English-language dailies 2,500 artists and painters, Museum. LEGOLAND® Malaysia,
such as The Star and New especially works by contem- is a massively popular theme
Straits Times. Another useful porary Malaysian artists. The park, with over 40 rides, huge
publication is Juice, a monthly gallery also hosts rotating models of the Petronas Towers
magazine that lists the exhibitions throughout the and other Asian landmarks
trendiest clubs. Up-to-date year. Another impressive art rendered in the plastic bricks, a
listings from all these publica- gallery is Galeri Petronas at 4-D film screening studio, and a
tions are also available on their Suria KLCC (see p79), which has fun water park. Wet World Water
official websites. The Kakiseni three separate halls of interna- Park in Shah Alam (see p82)
website is an excellent arts tional standard. It houses and Sunway Lagoon are other
portal and TimeOut KL online Malaysia’s largest private art water theme parks with water
provides not only listings but a collection. For detailed chutes and wave pools.
wealth of information regarding
places to stay, restaurants,
outdoor activities, and street maps.
There is no central ticket
booking organization in Kuala
Lumpur, so it is necessary to
contact each venue directly or
ask hotel staff for help with
booking tickets. Unfortunately,
not many older entertainment
venues are equipped with
facilities for the disabled,
although most modern
establishments provide such
amenities. Call individual
venues in advance to check for
details before booking. LEGOLAND® Malaysia, popular with kids of all ages
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M A L AY S I A 309
Cinema
Kuala Lumpur and big
towns around the
country have numerous
movie halls and
multiplex cinemas,
which screen the latest
Hollywood releases,
usually with the original
soundtrack and subtitles
in Malay and Chinese.
Movies from China,
India, and other Asian
countries are also
screened. Most cinemas Musicians playing a traditional Malay
have air conditioning. instrument
Some of the biggest
cinema chains are experimenting with a fusion of
Golden Screen new and traditional instruments
Cinemas, Tanjong such as synthesizers in an
The long-running Coliseum Cinema Golden Village, and attempt to keep classical music
Cathay Cineplexes. The popular among the younger
Theater oldest cinema in Kuala Lumpur, generation. Traditional music
Kuala Lumpur hosts a great still functioning today, is the performances are frequently
variety of theatrical perfor- Coliseum Cinema (see p76). held at the Malaysian Tourism
mances throughout the Cinema listings, show times, Information Complex (see p80)
year. Apart from touring and tickets are available on the and the National Theater (see
Broadway hits, traditional Cinema Online website. p77) both in Kuala Lumpur.
and experimental musicals, Occasionally the National
comedies, and tragedies Theater hosts classical music
written by international as well Traditional and Classical concerts featuring the National
as local playwrights, are also Music Symphony Orchestra. The main
staged. There is a particularly Reflecting a blend of cultures, classical venue in Kuala Lumpur
active fringe theater scene in predominantly Indian, Chinese, is Dewan Filharmonik Petronas,
Kuala Lumpur, with groups such Muslim, and Indonesian, Malaysia’s first classical concert
as Instant Café producing traditional Malaysian music is hall and home to the Malaysian
thought-provoking plays. The based largely around several Philharmonic Orchestra. It
venues are as varied as the types of drums – an influence of stages classical concerts and
productions, ranging from the the gamelan – and other hosts local and international
state-of-the-art Kuala Lumpur percussion instruments. Modern cultural performances. There is a
Performing Arts Center to the composers are constantly strict dress code here.
simple Old China Café.
Traditional Malaysian theater
is the shadow puppet play, or
wayang kulit, accompanied by a
gamelan, music played by a
traditional Indonesian percussion
orchestra. Once the main form
of entertainment in Malay
villages, it is now mostly
performed in some rural parts
of the east coast states of
Terengganu and Kelantan. One
good place to catch a show is
at Gelanggang Seni in Kota
Bharu (see pp152–3) and a
typical performance often lasts
about 8 hours. Chinese opera,
or wayang, a mix of dialog,
dance, and music is also
traditionally performed in the
country. Street shows are held
mostly during festivals such as
the Chinese New Year (see p34). The grand auditorium at the Dewan Filharmonik
Pubs, Bars, and Karaoke

Kuala Lumpur has a dizzying
range of nightlife haunts that
cater to every taste. The greatest
concentration of pubs and bars
is in the Golden Triangle (see p80).
Located here is Pisco Bar, a
well-stocked bar, live music
venue, boutique, and art gallery
in one, as well as the Beach
Club Café, which mostly plays
old favorites and is often packed
to the rafters. The capital’s other
pulsating nightspot is around
Hard Rock Café, one of the best venues in Kuala Lumpur for live bands Bangsar. Bars such as Finnegan’s
serving Kilkenny beer and La
Contemporary Music Originally presented only in Bodega with its Spanish
Extremely popular among Kelantan’s royal courts, it is now ambience infuse it with a
Malaysian youth, contemporary enjoyed by all. Silat is an elegant cosmopolitan feel. Another bar
Western music often provides dance that developed from worth a visit for lovers of rhythm
inspiration for local groups who martial arts and is accompanied and blues music is Modesto’s.
create songs in Malay that are by percussion music. It is often Karaoke is hugely popular in
set to pop, rock, hip-hop, or performed at weddings and most Asian countries, and
underground beats. Touring festivals. One of the most Malaysia is no exception.
pop stars of international repute popular dances from Sarawak Among Kuala Lumpur’s chic,
occasionally is the datun julud, or hornbill luxurious, and commonly visited
perform in dance. Created by the Kenyah karaoke bars are Cherry
Kuala Lumpur. people, it is based on the Blossom, Deluxe Nite Club, and
The Arena of the story of a prince blessed Club De Vegas.
Stars stadium in with a grandson and Other main towns in the
Genting Highlands involves a single female country with a fair choice of
(see p96) is a popular dancer who waves fans pubs and bars are Kuching,
venue for such of hornbill feathers to Johor Bahru, Kota Kinabalu,
concerts. Some of the most the sound of a sape, or a and several in Penang. Since
popular contemporary live traditional guitar. A drinks can be expensive in
music venues in Kuala good place to enjoy Malaysia, it is worth looking
Lumpur are the Hard Rock traditional music and out for places that offer happy
Café, No Black Tie, and dance in Sarawak is the hour prices, typically two
KL Live. Many famous Dancer Sarawak Cultural Village drinks for the price of one.
DJs from Europe also performing (see p165). In Kuala Generally, happy hour is
visit Kuala Lumpur’s datun julud Lumpur, dance perform- between 5 and 8pm. Many
hippest clubs. ances are held at the bars feature live music, espe-
Malaysia Tourism Information cially at weekends, for which
Complex, as well as at the there is usually a cover charge
Traditional Dance National Theater. of around RM20.
Like its music, Malaysia’s
traditional dances are strongly
influenced by Islamic, Indian,
and Chinese cultures, though
they have evolved into their
own unique styles. Many of
these dance forms continue to
enjoy widespread popularity in
the country and are performed
during special occasions and
festivals. Perhaps the most
popular traditional dance is
joget, which has its origins in
Portuguese folk dance and is
performed by couples who
blend fast and graceful move-
ments with playful humor. Mak
yong combines romantic drama,
dance, and operatic singing. Men performing silat, or a traditional martial art dance, in Kelantan
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M A L AY S I A 311
Nightclubs and Discos Zouk Club, Desire, Maison, Petronas Towers. Discos tend to
Although nightclubs and discos Luna Bar, and Sky Bar in the be located in upscale shopping
can be found in all large Traders Hotel. Both Luna Bar and malls or in hotels, and among
Malaysian towns, Kuala Lumpur Sky Bar have the advantage of the most popular clubs are
has the widest choice of venues. offering fantastic views of the Liquid Bar and Sultan Lounge.
Most places don’t pick up pace
until around 10pm, but are
throbbing with life until the
early hours of dawn. Several
locations feature Ladies’ Nights
when women can get free entry.
The popularity of individual
clubs tends to fluctuate, but the
hottest spots in town can
usually be found around the
junction of Jalan P. Ramlee and
Jalan Sultan Ismail. Most places
play European and British house
music, and frequently feature
well-known international DJs.
Among the trendiest places are A crowded dance floor in a Malaysian club
DIRECTORY
Event Listings Old China Café No Black Tie Modesto’s
11, Jalan Balai Polis, 17 Lorong Mesui, Kuala Sri Hartamas, Kuala
Juice Kuala Lumpur. Lumpur. Lumpur. Map 2 E5.
∑ juiceonline.com Tel (03) 2072-5915. Tel (03) 2142-3737. Tel (03) 6201-7898.
Pisco Bar
Kakiseni Cinema Pubs, Bars, and 329 Jalan Mesui (off Jalan
∑ kakiseni.com Karaoke Nagasari), Bukit Bintang.
Cathay Cineplexes
New Straits Times 2 Selangor Darul Ehsan. Beach Club Café Map 5 C2.
97 Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Tel (03) 2142-2900.
∑ nst.com.my Tel (03) 7727-8051.
Lumpur. Map 2 D5.
The Star Cinema Online
Tel (03) 2166-9919.
Nightclubs and
∑ thestar.com.my
∑ cinemaonline.com. Discos
my La Bodega
31 Tengkat Tong Shin, Desire
Timeout KL Golden Screen Kuala Lumpur. Jalan Doraisamy, Kuala
∑ timeout.com/kl Cinemas Lumpur. Map 1 B4.
Tel (03) 2142-6368.
Mid Valley Megamall, Tel (02) 200-1926.
Theme Parks Bangsar. Cherry Blossom
Tel (03) 2938-3366. Sun Kompleks, Off Jalan Liquid Bar
Legoland® Malaysia Bukit Bintang, Kuala Jalan Hang Kasturi.
Tanjong Golden Lumpur. Map 5 C3.
7 Jalan Legoland, Bandar Luna Bar
Village Tel (03) 2144-4895.
Medini, Nusajaya, Johor. Menara Panglobal,
Level 3 Suria KLCC. Map 2
Tel (07) 597 8888. Club De Vegas Jalan Puncak. Map 5 B1.
F5. Tel (03) 7492-2929.
3 Jalan Imbi, Kuala Tel (03) 2332-7777.
∑ legoland.com.my
Traditional and Lumpur. Map 5 C3. Maison
Sunway Lagoon Classical Music Tel (03) 2141-3888. 8 Jalan Yap Ah Shak,
11/11 Bandar Sunway, Kuala Lumpur. Map 1 B5.
Dewan Filharmonik Deluxe Nite Club
Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Ampang Park Shopping Tel (03) 2694-3341.
Petronas
Tel (03) 5635-8000. Center, Jalan Ampang, Sky Bar
Petronas Towers.
∑ sunwaylagoon.com Map 2 E4. Tel (03) 2051- Kuala Lumpur. Traders Hotel, KLCC. Map
7007. ∑ malaysian Tel (03) 2162-1399. 2 F5. Tel (03) 2332-9888.
Theater filharmonik.com Finnegan’s Sultan Lounge
51 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Mandarin Oriental, Jalan
Kuala Lumpur Contemporary Kuala Lumpur. Pinang.
Performing Arts Music Tel (03) 2145-1930. Tel (03) 2380-8888.
Center
Hard Rock Café KL Live Zouk Club
Jalan Strachan, Kuala Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala 1st Floor, Life Centre, 20 Jalan Ampang, Kuala
Lumpur. Tel (03) 4047- Lumpur. Map 2 D5. Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Map 2 E4.
7000. ∑ klpac.com Tel (03) 2715-5555. Lumpur. Tel (03) 2162-2570. Tel (03) 2171-1997.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES IN
MALAYSIA
From the summit of Gunung Kinabalu to the rain forests in the world with their towering
depths of the South China Sea, Malaysia trees, tangled vines, and gaping limestone
offers an array of opportunities to enjoy the caves are wonderful to explore. Tour agents
country’s natural wonders. Pristine offshore cater to the needs of special interest groups,
islands such as the Perhentians, Tioman, and from climbers to bird-watchers, while river
Sipadan attract divers with their stunning cruises are a comfortable way of visiting the
coral reefs and rich marine life. Most beach mangrove swamps on the coast of Malaysian
resorts offer adventure sports such as wind- Borneo. The agreeable climate is perfect for
surfing, water-skiing, and snorkeling. The oldest golf enthusiasts.
photography, as well as for

activities such as trekking and
fishing. These can be obtained
either at the park itself or, if in
Sarawak, from the National
Parks Booking Offices. Many
parks offer accommodations
and, while it is not mandatory to
book in advance for all, it is
advisable to do so as preserves
and parks tend to get busy,
especially during weekends and
holidays. Some parks may
require permits for camping.
The National Parks Booking
Offices also handle
accommodation bookings.
Speedboat tour at Bako National Park (see pp168–9), Sarawak
Guided Tours Bookings and Permits for Trekking

Tourism in Malaysia is well National Parks Malaysia’s national parks are
developed and tour operators, At most national parks and ideal for those wishing to trek
such as CPH Travel Agency and reserves in Malaysia, visitors can through scenic landscape and
Asian Overland Services, offer a pay the entry fees at Park observe the country’s wildlife.
wide range of choices. Headquarters within the At 13,455 ft (4,101 m), Sabah’s
Depending on a visitor’s time reserve’s boundaries or at the Gunung Kinabalu is one of the
and budget, everything from a entrance. However, booking in highest peaks in the world that
half-day city tour to a 10-day advance is advisable for a few of can be climbed without special
tour of the country is available. the parks, such as Tanjung Datu climbing equipment, so it is not
Independent travelers can National Park (see p166) and surprising that hundreds set out
join tour groups, such as S.I. Semenggoh Wildlife Centre every day with the intention of
Tours and Exotic Adventure, to (see p167). Permits and
visit sights and participate in entrance tickets can be
activities that would otherwise obtained at the
be prohibitively expensive. For National Parks Booking
example, a tour is the best way Office in Kuching
to access Sarawak’s Mulu (see p161) or at its
National Park (see pp176–7), hike branch in Miri. Visitors
up Gunung Kinabalu (see entering Endau-Rompin
pp190–93) in Sabah, or join a National Park (see p143)
white-water rafting expedition from Johor also have
down Sungai Padas (see p187). the option of buying a
The advantage of joining a permit from the Forestry
guided tour is that the local Commission online.
guide’s knowledge can enrich Some parks require
the experience of visiting a official permits for
place you may never return to. professional filming and Braving the Pinnacles at Mulu National Park
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S I N M A L AY S I A 313
Caving
Malaysia’s landscape, riddled
with some of the world’s largest
limestone caves, lures
spelunkers from around the
world. Many guas, or caves, such
as Lang’s Cave in Gulung Mulu,
are covered with beautiful
stalactites and stalagmites,
while others, such as the nearby
Deer Cave, offer opportunities
for adventure caving, following
rarely visited routes.
The caves at Niah (see p174)
and Mulu National Park in
Sarawak attract millions of bats
and birds, which roost in their
Following the jungle trail near Asah waterfall (see p136), Southern Peninsula dank interiors. Sabah’s
Gomantong Caves (see p197) are
standing on its summit. Park Gunung Kinabalu test the fittest famed for their swiftlet nests.
authorities advise against of walkers. Peradayan Forest Locals clamber up bamboo
climbing Kinabalu independ- Reserve in Brunei also offers poles to retrieve the nests,
ently and hiring a guide is many good trails. considered a gastronomic
recommended. A climbing Most of Malaysia’s forests are delicacy by some. The best time
permit can be purchased on ecologically fragile and to see the cave’s wildlife is at
arrival at Park Headquarters. protected by the Department dusk, during the changeover
Most climbers take two days of Wildlife and National Parks. when bats come hurtling out
to reach this summit with an While many visitors opt to trek for their night feeding and
overnight stay in one of the on their own following color- swiftlets return to their nests.
mountain huts, such as the coded trails, treks can be Though smaller than the
one at Laban Rata, 10,738 ft organized by the department caves in Borneo, the illumi-
(3,273 m) above sea level. It is or private companies, such as nated caverns at Tempurong
essential to pre-book, par- Borneo Adventure or Jungle in Selangor and the Hindu
ticularly in the peak season School. shrines at Batu Caves (see p96)
(April). Wear good walking Hikers should shield are remarkable. For those
boots and warm, waterproof themselves from the sun and intrigued by their hidden
clothing, and bring a sleeping drink lots of water to avoid recesses, the Malaysian Nature
bag, water, and high-energy dehydration. Leech socks can Society Caving Group offers
food. A flashlight is invaluable also be very useful, especially quick courses and arranges
since climbs can start early in during the wet season. cave explorations.
the morning to catch the
sunrise at the summit.
For less strenuous climbs,
there are alternatives, ranging
from a trek up Taman Negara’s
Gunung Tahan (see pp144–5)
to the climb up Sarawak’s
Gunung Mulu (see p177) or the
Pinnacles on Gunung Api (see
p177). Malaysia’s terrain is
challenging, and it is wise to
trek with local tour companies,
such as Jungle School.
In parks that lie within the
protected area of Sarawak
Forestry Corporation, such as
Mulu National Park, guides are
mandatory while trekking.
Taman Negara is best for
beginners as it has trails for
every level of ability. Bako
National Park (see pp168–9) in
Sarawak has several easy trails,
while Gunung Mulu and Gua Kelam, or cave of darkness, in Kuala Perlis
Diving in Malaysia
The idyllic islands scattered around the coast of Malaysia provide easy access to the
country’s spectacular dive sites. While Malaysia is a strong draw for experienced divers, it is
also a good training ground for amateurs, with numerous diving outfits offering lessons
(see p317) in the waters around islands such as Pulau Tioman, Pulau Redang, and the
Perhentian Islands. Some of the more common marine creatures that divers can hope to
spot are whale sharks, manta rays, starfish, and a variety of sea turtles. The monsoon season
reduces visibility and makes diving less rewarding. The best time to visit the west coast of
Peninsular Malaysia is from November to May, while March to October are the ideal
months for a trip to the east coast of the peninsula and around Sabah and Sarawak. The
islands off the southwest coast of Sabah are suitable for diving all year round.
Types of Diving
Malaysia’s Best Dive
Malaysia’s coastline offers wreck diving, snorkeling, and
coral reef diving. While wreck dives enable experienced
Sites
divers to glimpse Malaysia’s underwater treasures, coral • Miri see p174
reefs can be explored by snorkelers and scuba divers. • Perhentian Islands see p148
• Pulau Kapas see p146
• Pulau Labuan see p186
Wreck dives allow • Pulau Lankayan see p197
divers to explore • Pulau Redang see p148
old shipwrecks. • Pulau Sipadan see pp200–201
The easiest wreck • Pulau Sulug see p185
to navigate is the • Pulau Tenggol see p146
Cement Wreck, • Pulau Tioman see pp136–7
which sank in
1980 off the coast
of Labuan.
Scuba diving in Malaysia offers the opportunity to experience Snorkeling needs only a mask and
its coral reef system, which supports aquatic organisms a snorkel. It is a great way to watch
numbering up to at least 200 species. underwater life at close quarters.
Marine Life
The waters off Malaysia are a treasure trove of Starfish, also
marine species. East coast islands such as Tioman known as sea
are home to black marlin and yellowfin, schools of stars, are bright
barracuda, and reef sharks. and vibrantly
colored. These
boneless species
glide across the
ocean floor.
Green Sea Turtles

are an endangered
Whale Sharks are gentle and slow species. The adult
plankton-feeding sharks. The largest turtle’s algae diet is
living fish species, they grow to 39 ft responsible for its
(12 m) in length. green color.
protective jackets and have

to be good swimmers. The
experience varies, as rivers
offer a sedate drift in the drier
months and a soaking roller-
coaster ride after severe rain.
Children above 12 are allowed
on such trips provided they
are good swimmers and are
accompanied by parents or
legal guardians.
River Cruises
A comparatively recent
phenomenon on Malaysia’s
White-water rafting along one of Malaysia’s rivers ecotourism scene is a cruise
through lush rain forests and
Diving and Snorkeling White-Water Rafting mangrove swamps. These cruises
Diving is a popular activity for The frothing rivers that tumble usually set out in the early
both locals and visitors in out of Malaysia’s rugged mornings or late afternoons,
Malaysia. Numerous scuba- mountains become rapids en and as the boat glides over the
diving and marine clubs as route to the sea. They once water, knowledgeable guides
well as beach resorts offer formed an impassable barrier help spot long-tail macaques,
equipment for hire. Most dive for many explorers. Today, silver langurs, and proboscis
operators have five-day PADI however, they form the perfect monkeys, as well as birds such
courses leading to certification setting for a white-water rafting as hornbills feeding in the trees
as a diver and also organize adventure. Rapids are graded close to the water’s edge.
trips to dive sites. Borneo from Class I to V, but anything Such cruises are available in
Dream and Sea Sports, Pulau above Class III will need an Pulau Langkawi (see pp118–21)
Sipadan Resort and Tours, and expert guide. One of the top and Taman Negara (see pp144–5)
Borneo Dive are some of sites is Sabah’s spectacular on the peninsula, or at the
Malaysia’s best tour operators. Padas Gorge (see p187) with Klias Wetlands (see p186) and
In several places, coral reefs Class III–IV rapids that leave pad- Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary
are in shallow water, making it dlers exhilarated. Sungai in Sabah (see p197). Irrawaddy
easy for snorkelers to get Sungkei and Sungai Kampar in dolphins are occasionally seen
among them and explore the Perak, north of Kuala Lumpur, splashing in the shallows
pristine vistas and vibrant corals. feature gentler rapids. around the mouth of the Sungai
However, care should be taken No previous experience is Santubong in Sarawak. On dis-
not to touch the corals as they necessary for white-water embarking from the cruise, tour
can sting and are easily rafting, as tour operators such as groups such as S.I. Tours and
damaged. The number of divers Nomad Adventure and Exotic Borneo Eco Tours often treat
permitted at any one time in Adventure run through safety their guests to a buffet dinner
Pulau Sipadan (see pp200–201) procedures before setting off. before driving them back to
is limited, and booking in Rafters wear helmets and their hotels.
advance is a must.
Water Sports
Paragliding, windsurfing,
water-skiing, wakeboarding,
and jet-skiing are just some of
the water sports on offer at
Malaysia’s beach resorts. Sea
Quest Tours and Travel
organizes glass-bottom boat
cruises along the coast. They
also arrange sunset cruises
and island-hopping tours.
Some travel insurance com-
panies do not cover injuries
sustained while taking part in
water sports, so policies should
be checked before signing up. Kayaking tour in mangrove swamps
Bird-Watching
With more than 600 identified
species, Malaysia is a paradise
for bird-watchers. Part of the
reason for this great diversity is
that Malaysia has many different
habitats, including montane
forests, lowland forests, man-
grove swamps, and wetlands,
which provide good nesting
conditions for all kinds of
birds. Apart from the eight
varieties of hornbill that can
be seen gliding over the
rain forest canopy, crested
serpent eagles, mangrove
pittas, kingfishers, and trogons
delight bird-watchers.
In Malaysian Borneo, Sarawak
is the perfect place for a wildlife
holiday and is often referred to
as the Land of the Hornbill.
A golfer enjoying a round in a spectacular setting Kinabalu National Park (see
pp190–91) in Sabah has a fan-
Golf rarer species. Fraser’s Hill and tastic variety of flycatchers and
With affordable caddies, low Taman Negara (see pp144–5) magpies. Among the best
green fees, and equipment hire are both easily accessible wild- locations on Peninsular Malaysia
at reasonable rates, the life-spotting areas. for bird-watching are Kuala
country’s well-planned courses Another popular activity is an Selangor Nature Park and
attract golfers from all over the organized tour to spot orang- Fraser’s Hill, where swiftlets and
world. Day visitors can usually utans in their natural habitat at cuckoos predominate. Enthu-
enjoy a game for a fee. Semonggoh Wildlife Centre in siastic twitchers might like to
Almost 200 golf courses are Sarawak (see p167), or at Sepilok join in one of many birding
currently available, with locations Orangutan Rehabilitation Center events, such as the Fraser’s
ranging from the cool Fraser’s (see p196) in Sabah. Wildlife Hill International Bird Race
Hill (see p97) to the coastline of enthusiasts can also see green (see p97) that takes place
Borneo. A few of the most and hawksbill turtles nesting and annually in June.
popular courses in Peninsular observe hatchlings being released Borneo Mainland Travel and
Malaysia include the Cameron by rangers on islands such as Tours, Birdtour Asia, Malaysian
Highlands Golf Club. Kuala Gulisan, Bakungan Kecil, and Pulau Nature Society Birding Group,
Lumpur has the Kuala Lumpur Selingam, and on a trip to Turtle Rockjumper, and Birding Pal
Golf and Country Club, and on Island National Park (see p196). are among the tour operators
the city’s outskirts are the WWF, the global conservation and groups that organize bird-
designer Mines Resort Golf and organization, plans events to watching itineraries. Binoculars,
Country Club course and the support the terrain threatened a good field-guide, and a hat
Templer Park Golf Club. Further by poaching and deforestation. will prove to be very useful.
afield on Langkawi is the award-
winning Els Club and Gunung
Raya Golf Resort.
Wildlife Viewing
People visit Malaysia in great
numbers to view its tropical
biodiversity comprising over
200 kinds of mammals, many
thousands of flowering plants,
and a spectrum of butterflies.
Malaysia’s wildlife includes
orangutans, Borneo gibbons,
proboscis monkeys, and
hornbills. It may be necessary
to trek through jungles or
climb up mountains to spot Enthusiastic bird-watchers on a jungle tour
DIRECTORY
Guided Tours Caving Golf Borneo Mainland
Travel and Tours
Asian Overland Malaysian Nature Cameron Highlands 1081, 1st Floor, Jalan
Services Society Caving Group Golf Club Merpati, Miri, Sarawak.
Ampang Point, Kuala 641 JKR Jalan Kelantan, PO Box 66, 39007 Tel (085) 433-511.
Lumpur. Tel (03) 4252- Bukit Persekutuan, Kuala Tanah Rata, ∑ borneomainland.
9100. ∑ asianoverland. Lumpur. Map 3 A4. Cameron Highlands, com
com.my Tel (03) 2287-9422. Pahang.
∑ mns.org.my Tel (05) 491-1126.
Malaysian Nature
CPH Travel Agency Society Birding
Kuching, Sarawak. Els Club Group
Diving and
Tel (082) 414-921. Pulau Langkawi. 641 JKR Jalan Kelantan,
Snorkeling
∑ cphtravel.com.my Tel (04) 959-2700. Bukit Persekutuan,
Borneo Divers and ∑ elsclubmalaysia. Kuala Lumpur.
Exotic Adventure
Lot 1, 1st Floor, Block D, Sea Sports com Map 3 A4.
Segama Complex, Kota Tel (088) 222-226. Tel (03) 2287-9422.
Gunung Raya Golf
∑ borneodivers.info ∑ mns.org.my
Kinabalu, Sabah. Resort
Tel (088) 486-886. Borneo Dream Jalan Air Hangat, Rockjumper
∑ exotic-adventure. Tel (088) 244-064. Kisap, Langkawi. ∑ rockjumperbirding.
com ∑ borneodream.com Tel (04) 966-8148. com
S.I. Tours ∑ golfgr.com.my
Pulau Sipadan Resort
Lot 1002–1003, Wisma and Tours Kuala Lumpur Golf
Khoo, Siak Chiew, 1st floor, No. 484, and Country Club
Sandakan, Sabah. Block P, Bandar Sabindo, 10 Jalan 1/70D,
Tel (089) 673-502. Tawau, Sabah. off Jalan Bukit Kiara,
∑ sitoursborneo.com Tel (089) 765-200. Kuala Lumpur.
∑ sipadan-resort.com Tel (03) 2011-9188.
Bookings and ∑ klgcc.com
Permits for Water Sports
National Parks Mines Resort Golf
Sea Quest Tours and and Country Club
Sarawak National Travel The Mines Resort City,
Parks Booking Office 1 Sutera Harbour Selangor Darul Ehsan.
∑ sarawakforestry.com Boulevard, Kota Kinabalu, Tel (03) 943-2288.
Sabah. Tel (088) 248-006. ∑ minesgolfclub.com
Trekking ∑ seaquesttours.net
Templer Park Golf
Borneo Adventure Club
Gaya Center, Jalan Tun
White-Water Rawang, Selangor.
Fuad Stephens, Kota
Rafting Tel (03) 6091-9111.
Kinabalu, Sabah. Exotic Adventure ∑ tpcc.com.my
Tel (088) 486-800. Lot 1, 1st Floor,
∑ borneoadventure. Block D, Segama Wildlife Viewing
com Complex, Kota
WWF (Worldwide
Department of Kinabalu, Sabah.
Fund for Nature)
Wildlife and Tel (088) 486-886.
49 Jalan SS23/15
National Parks ∑ exotic-adventure.
Taman Sea,
Jalan Charas, Kuala com
Petaling Jaya, Selangor.
Lumpur. Nomad Adventure Tel (03) 7803-3772.
Tel (03) 9075-2872. 4.06B, 4th Floor, The
∑ wildlife.gov.my Suite 1–6 W11 6th Floor,
Summit Subang USJ,
CPS Tower, Center
Persiaran Kewajipan, USJ
Jungle School Point Complex No. 1,
1, Subang Jaya, Selangor.
The Heritage Unit, Kuala Jalan Center Point,
Tel (603) 8024-5152.
Lumpur. Tel (019) 342- Kota Kinabalu,
∑ nomadadventure.
2049. ∑ jungleschool. Sabah.
com
com.my Tel (088) 262-420.
∑ wwf.org.my
River Cruises
Sarawak Forestry
Corporation Borneo Eco Tours Bird-Watching
Hock Lee Center, Jalan Pusat Perindustrian
Birding Pal
Datuk Abang Abdul Kolonbong Jaya,
∑ www.birdingpal.org
Rahim, Kuching, Sarawak. Kota Kinabalu.
Tel (082) 348-001. Tel (088) 438-300. Birdtour Asia
∑ sarawakforestry.com ∑ borneoecotours.com ∑ birdtourasia.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 320–329
Travel Information 330–339
320 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Malaysia is one of Asia’s top tourist destinations, Malaysia, and Brunei. Visitors should be aware
appealing to package tourists and independent of petty crime, especially bag-snatching, in
travelers alike. The government of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, and of a risk of criminality on
long aware of the country’s potential as a Pulau Tioman and eastern Sabah, so some
tropical paradise, has been promoting tourism common-sense caution is needed (see p324).
for decades. Visitors will find that tour operators However, most visits are trouble free.
are efficient, hotels are well maintained, Singapore, on the other hand, is an excep-
traveling around is usually smooth, and local tionally safe country, largely free of violent
people are generally friendly in Singapore, crime, dirt, and most tropical diseases.
Visas and Passports for between two weeks and

Visitors need a passport that is three months, may be
valid for at least six months extended by applying to the
from the date of arrival. A visa Immigration Department in
can be obtained overseas at Bandar Seri Begawan, the
Malaysian embassies, though capital of Brunei. Citizens of
many nationalities are granted most other nationalities are
one on arrival. Citizens of some given 72-hour transit visas.
European, African, South Singapore stamps in citizens
American, and ASEAN from the UK, USA, Australia,
countries can stay in Malaysia New Zealand, and Canada for
for a month without a visa. an initial 30 days, or travelers
Citizens of the UK, USA, New can cross into Malaysia or any
Zealand, Australia, Canada, other country and then return
and Ireland are automatically for three months.
allowed to stay for three
months, which can be
extended for another two Customs Information
A percussionist at the Rainforest World months by applying to the Duty-free limits are 50 cigars,
Music Festival (see p165) Immigration Department. The 200 cigarettes, or 225g of
Malaysian Foreign Office tobacco, as well as a liter of
When to Go website has further details. either wine or spirits in
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei does not require visas Malaysia. Duty is payable on all
Brunei fall entirely within from citizens of the UK, USA, tobacco in Singapore, and you
the tropics, so all three and most European nations. can bring in one liter of wine,
countries have a hot and Depending on your nationality, one of spirits and one of beer.
humid climate all year round, you will be allowed to stay for Visitors who are carrying over
with temperatures hovering either 30 or 90 days. Australians US$2,500 need to fill a
around 30° C (86° F) and rarely are issued with a visa on arrival Declaration Form on arrival.
dipping below 20° C (68° F). for 30 days while Canadians These three countries take a
Visitors keen to lounge on a can stay for only two weeks. very hard line on illegal drugs.
beach or participate in However, an initial stamp, valid Possession can result in a
adventure sports should avoid
the monsoons. The rainy
season affects the west coast
of the peninsula between May
and September. On the east
coast and in Malaysian Borneo,
the monsoon falls between
November and February. It is
worth timing a visit to coincide
with one of the country’s
major festivals, such as the
Merdeka Eve celebration (see
p58) or the Rainforest World
Music Festival (see p165).
Chinese and Hindu festivals in
Singapore take place in
January and February. Visitor’s Center at Suntec City Mall, Singapore
Cycle rickshaws waiting for tourists in front of the Stadthuys in Melaka
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 321
Visitors watching orangutans at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center (see p196)
lengthy prison term or the closed Mondays. In Malaysia’s ahead of US Pacific Standard
death penalty in Malaysia, more devout Muslim states, Time (PST) and 13 hours ahead
Singapore, and Brunei. such as Kedah, Terrangganu, of Eastern Standard Time (EST) in
and Kelantan, offices are also the USA. However, Malaysia does
closed on Friday. Post offices are not have daylight saving time;
Visitor Information generally open betwen 8am visitors should note that time
Anyone considering a visit to and 6pm, Monday to Saturday. differences will change when
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei In Singapore, government offices countries observing daylight
will find useful remain open between saving move their clocks forward.
information on the 8:30am and 5pm,
official websites of Monday to Friday. In
Tourism Malaysia, Brunei, government Lunar Calendar
the Singapore offices are open Malaysia and Singapore use the
Tourism Board, and between 7:45am and Gregorian (Western) calendar
Tourism Brunei. 4:30pm and remain for administrative purposes, but
The websites closed on Friday and many of their festivals, particularly
provide details of Sunday. For details Islamic or Chinese, are celebrated
festivals, hotels, and on the opening according to the lunar calendar.
resorts. The tourist hours of banks see This means they fall on a different
boards, aided by Guide of Singapore pp326–7, and for day each year. The main difference
their efficient Tourism Board shops see pp302–3. between the Chinese and Islamic
network of domestic lunar calendars is that the former
and overseas offices, offer a uses an intercalary month, so that
wide range of pamphlets on the Admission Charges festivals occur mostly at the same
most attractive tourist Most museums charge a time each year, while Islamic
destinations. For information on nominal entry fee both in festivals occur about 10 days
Malaysian Borneo, both the Malaysia and in Singapore. Most earlier each year. Most festivals
Sabah Tourism Board and the national parks charge RM10, are planned to coincide with the
Sarawak Tourism Board have except Kinabalu National Park, night of the full moon. To find
detailed websites. Most hotels where the fee is RM15. Some of exact dates of any festival, it is best
operate a tour service or can the more developed attractions to check the tourist board website
make arrangements for guests charge a higher entry fee, of the country concerned.
while backpackers’ lodges are including the Sepilok Orangutan
generally excellent sources of Rehabilitation Center (RM30)
local information. and Sarawak Cultural Village Electricity
(RM60). Night safaris tend to be The electrical current in the
expensive. Both countries have region is 220–240 volts at
Opening Hours lower rates for children. 50 hertz. Equipment using
Government offices in Malaysia 110 volts requires a converter.
are open 8:30am–5:30pm, Adaptors are cheap and
Monday to Friday. Museums Local Time available in most big towns.
keep similar hours, though it is Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei Most wall sockets accommo-
worth checking specific loca- are 8 hours ahead of Greenwich date three-pronged square pin
tions as some museums are Mean Time (GMT), 16 hours plugs as used in the UK.
322 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
humid year-round. Hats and

sunglasses are also advisable.
A sweater and windproof jacket
are recommended for those
visiting hill stations. As there is
some rainfall throughout the
year in Malaysia, a raincoat is
handy. It is also important to
carry a few long-sleeved shirts
and pairs of trousers or full-
length dresses, not just as
Family boat ride on Sungai Santubong protection from the sun, but
also for visits to conservative
Traveling with Children and shopping centers in rural areas and religious
Parents traveling with children Singapore provide ramps and venues as well as visits to
will often be surprised and other amenities for those with smart restaurants and hotels.
delighted to find that their special needs, but these are Singapore is generally smarter
children are usually treated less common in Malaysia. than Malaysia when it comes
with affection and care almost Facilities are slowly improving, to dining out.
everywhere in Malaysia, however. Public transport lacks Since laundry services are
Singapore, and Brunei. An wheelchair accessibility, and available in most hotels and
example of this is in restaurants, towns have high kerbs and guesthouses and cheap cloth-
where the staff are often helpful, uneven sidewalks. Travel ing, such as T-shirts and batik
and willing to occupy children websites for the disabled, such shirts, can be bought every-
while parents have their meal. as Global Access News, offer where, it is easy to travel light.
Malaysia is particularly child- some guidance.
friendly, with a wide range of
places to visit that interest Photography
people of all ages. Childcare Gay and Lesbian Natural beauty, teeming wildlife,
products are available Travelers and stunning architecture
throughout the region except Officially, neither Malaysia ensure that most places in
in rural areas and remote nor Singapore welcomes gay Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei
destinations. Children’s health, and lesbian travelers, and are extremely photogenic.
however, requires protection, delivers strict punishment for People are generally quite happy
especially against exposure to homosexual acts. Never theless, to have their picture taken, but to
heat, and food- and water- a number of bars and clubs in avoid causing offence, always
related ailments. Singapore and Kuala Lumpur request their permission first,
bolster a thriving gay scene. especially while visiting the
For more information on indigenous people. Similarly, it is
Women Travelers gay and lesbian issues and advisable to ask a priest or imam
Malaysia, Singapore, and events across Asia consult the at all temples and mosques
Brunei are reasonably safe for website Utopia. before taking pictures there.
women traveling alone. It is Photo shops in Malaysia’s big
important to bear in mind, cities and in Singapore are
though, that due to the conser- What to Wear well stocked with equipment,
vative nature of Malaysian Light, casual clothes in cotton memory cards, and print film;
culture, unaccompanied and other natural fibers are prices are cheaper than in the
Western women may attract ideal for the tropical climate of West. Professional slide film is
attention, particularly in rural Malaysia, Singapore, and only available in big cities, and
districts and Muslim areas. Brunei, which are hot and even then it might be better to
Women travelers are unlikely to
be harassed if they are consider-
ate of local customs, wear mod-
est clothing, and avoid taking
risks such as hitchhiking and
walking alone at night.
Disabled Travelers
Singapore provides the best
facilities for the disabled, while
Malaysia unfortunately offers
little in the way of assistance.
Many hotels, banks, cinemas, Stalls selling clothes and other wares at Jalan Petaling market
DIRECTORY
Embassies
Australia
Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2146-5555.
∑ australia.org.my
Singapore. Tel 6836-4100.
∑ australia.org.sg
Canada
∑ malaysia.gc.ca
∑ singapore.gc.ca
New Zealand
∑ nzembassy.com
∑ nzembassy.com
Arm wrestling between a tourist and a local
UK
carry your own, as it tends to be mosques, and other religious Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2170-2200.
improperly stored. It is worth places, as well as in Muslim ∑ www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-
using photographic services, such areas or homes. Non-Muslim advice/malaysia
as film processing, before heading women may be forbidden to Singapore. Tel 6424-4200.
home. It is also easy and cheap enter mosques in some places. ∑ www.gov.uk/government/
to get images on a memory world/singapore
card transferred onto a DVD and
to get prints from digital images. Language USA
Bahasa Malayu, which means Kuala Lumpur. Tel (03) 2168-5000.
Malay language, is the official ∑ malaysia.usembassy.gov
Social Customs language of Malaysia and Singapore. Tel 6476-9100.
The majority of the Malaysian Brunei. In Singapore, English ∑ singapore.usembassy.gov
population is conservative, but and Mandarin are also widely
visitors will find most social cus- spoken, though visitors may Visas and Passports
toms flexible and generally easy also hear Tamil, Cantonese,
Ministry of Foreign Affairs
to comply with. Loud behavior is Hindi, or any number of
∑ kln.gov.my
considered rude. As a rule, do indigenous languages that are
not point at people or objects still used by the multi-ethnic
using the index finger; instead population. Visitors who learn
Visitor Information
indicate with the thumb or the even a few Malay phrases will Sabah Tourism Board
whole hand. Although men endear themselves to their hosts. ∑ sabahtourism.com
shake hands, wait for a hand to
be offered. Also note that in Sarawak Tourism Board
Muslim company it is impolite to Conversion Chart ∑ sarawaktourism.com
touch people with the left hand Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei Singapore Tourism Board
or on the head. Public displays of use the metric system for ∑ visitsingapore.com
affection such as hugging and weights and measures.
kissing are also frowned upon. Imperial to Metric Tourism Brunei
Topless sunbathing and nudity 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters ∑ tourismbrunei.com
on beaches are taboo. 1 foot = 30 centimeters Tourism Malaysia
Before entering a Malaysian 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers ∑ tourism.gov.my
home, visitors should take their 1 ounce = 28 grams
shoes off. Never help yourself to 1 pound = 454 grams Disabled Travelers
food without it being offered first 1 US pint = 0.473 liter
and avoid eating with the left hand. 1 US quart = 0.947 liter Global Access News
While most big cities have a 1 US gallon = 3.6 liters ∑ globalaccessnews.com
modern outlook in terms of Metric to Imperial
fashion, Muslim women still 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch Gay and Lesbian
dress conservatively. Care must 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches Travelers
be taken to dress modestly, with 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile
arms and legs covered, when 1 gram = 0.04 ounce Utopia
visiting rural areas, temples, 1 liter = 2.1 US pints ∑ utopia-asia.com
324 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health contact your embassy or

consulate in order to obtain a
Malaysia, Singapore, and Brunei are all relatively safe to travel replacement (see p323).
in as crime rates are low, though petty crime is on the rise in
Kuala Lumpur. The same common-sense safety rules apply Narcotics
here as anywhere else: be vigilant, especially in tourist hotspots
Malaysia and Singapore are
where pickpockets and bag-snatchers may operate. However, very strict when it comes to
Sabah’s eastern coast and islands have been subject to travel penalties for possessing or
warnings issued by both the US State Department and British smuggling narcotics, and
Foreign Office, after kidnappings. Check current advisories on anyone caught carrying them
your government’s website before travel to this area. can expect either a long time
in prison or possibly the death
sentence. Brunei, too, carries
the death penalty for drug
trafficking.
Health Precautions
Standards of health and
hygiene are high in Malaysia
and Singapore. No inoculations
are necessary, unless you have
recently visited countries
where yellow fever is prevalent.
If so, you will need to show
Singapore policeman and a patrol car proof of vaccination on arrival.
Most areas of Malaysia
Police belt beneath clothing to have no risk of malaria. There
Most visitors never have prevent the risk of pick- is a risk of malaria in deep
cause for dealings with the pocketing. Valuables such as hinterland areas of Sabah and
police, unless reporting a theft cameras and mobile phones Sarawak and in Temara Negara
or loss. In Malaysia, areas with should be hidden from view. In National Park in Peninsular
large numbers of tourists Kuala Lumpur, it is becoming Malaysia. There is low to no risk
are also patrolled by special quite common for thieves on of malaria in Kuala Lumpur and
tourist police who offer motorcycles to grab bags and other urban/suburban areas
extra protection. phones so be aware of your and coastal regions.
Singapore has strict laws that surrounds. Avoid walk ing along Dengue fever, which is also
prohibit smoking in public dimly lit streets after dark or transmitted by mosquitoes,
places, littering, and even leaving purses unattended. is an increasing problem. It
chewing gum, for which steep It is a good idea to have causes high fever, joint pain,
fines ranging from S$50– photocopies of your travel and headaches, usually running
1,000 are imposed. The insurance papers, passport, its course in one week to 10
police here are particularly and documents, in case of days. There is no vaccine for it,
vigilant. Although some- theft or loss (see below). but a checkup is recommended
times tourists may be to avoid any complications.
let off with a warning The most common problem
for these offences, it Lost and Stolen for travelers is diarrhea and
is best to respect Property stomach upsets caused by a
local laws. If you are robbed, change in diet, water, and
report the theft climate. To reduce the risk of
immediately to the diarrhea, drink only bottled or
General local police station. A boiled water, avoid ice in drinks
Precautions police report will be and raw food, and eat only in
While traveling in the necessary to make an clean places.
region is relatively safe, insurance claim later. Lost The greatest danger of
some basic precautions or stolen credit cards and traveling to the tropics is the
should be followed. Avoid traveler’s checks must be heat, which can easily cause
carrying large sums of reported to the issuing dehydration and sunburn.
money or wearing bank to prevent with- Drink plenty of water, stay in
expensive jewelry; leave drawals and cards must the shade, and protect yourself
them in your hotel safe. be canceled thereafter from direct sunlight with a hat,
Keep money and Tourist police in for replacements. If a sunscreen, and sunglasses. The
passports in a money Malaysia passport is lost or stolen, tropical climate can play havoc
and Prince Court Medical DIRECTORY

Centre among the best, reliable
medical care can be difficult to Emergencies
find in rural areas. Brunei has Brunei
adequate health care facilities Ambulance Tel 991.
but serious health problems Fire Tel 995.
are better treated in Singapore, Police Tel 993.
which has world-class medical
facilities. Major hospitals here Malaysia
Ambulance Tel 999.
include Raffles Hospital and
Fire Tel 994.
Singapore General.
Police Tel 999.
Singapore
Pharmacies Ambulance and fire Tel 995.
A private hospital in Singapore, a country Even the smallest towns in Police Tel 999.
with superb health care Malaysia have well-stocked
pharmacies. The Guardian
Health Precautions
with open cuts and burns, so Pharmacy has a large number Malaysia Medical
treat these immediately. Bring of outlets in Malaysia and Association
a well-stocked medical kit to Singapore. Another well-known ∑ mma.org.my
help tackle minor problems. If a pharmacy in Singapore is the
World Health Organization
problem persists, seek medical Changi General Hospital ∑ who.int/ith
advice immediately. Pharmacy. Medication may be
bought over the counter in Hospitals and Medical
Malaysia without a doctor’s Treatment
Hospitals and Medical prescription, but that is not
Treatment possible in Singapore. When Gleneagles Medical Center
All large towns in Malaysia have traveling, be sure to carry 282 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (03) 4141-3000.
a district hospital as well as a good supply of your
∑ gleneagleskl.com.my
private clinics. Most are clean prescription medicines.
and all doctors speak some Prince Court Medical Centre
English. Private clinics catering 39 Jalan Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur.
specifically for expatriates and Travel and Health Tel (03) 2160-0000.
tourists are usually more Insurance ∑ princecourt.com
expensive than local facilities. It is essential to take out Raffles Hospital
Private hospitals in both travel insurance before 585 North Bridge Road,
Malaysia and Singapore are traveling to the region. Ensure Singapore.
popular destinations for that it covers you for injury, Map 3 E4.
medical tourism thanks to their sickness, accident, emergency Tel 6311-1111.
keen pricing compared with hospital treatment, and ∑ rafflesmedicalgroup.com
other countries. repatriation as well as medical Singapore General
While amenities in the major assistance. You will need extra 4 Outram Road.
cities are well developed, with coverage if you participate in Map 4 A3.
hospitals in Kuala Lumpur such high-risk activities such as Tel 6222-3322.
as Gleneagles Medical Center diving or mountain climbing.
Pharmacies
Changi General Hospital
Pharmacy
2 Simei Street 3, Singapore.
Tel 6850-1888.
∑ mypharmacy.com.sg
Guardian Pharmacy
Lot 89 & 91, Jalan Bukit Bintang,
Kuala Lumpur.
Map 6 D2.
Tel (03) 2145-7553.
∑ guardian.com.my
313 Orchard Road, Singapore.
Map 1 F2.
Tel 6338-0813.
∑ guardian.com.sg
Ambulance in Singapore
326 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency major banks. Lost or stolen

traveler’s checks and credit
Banks are generally easy to find in Malaysia, Singapore, and cards must be reported to
Brunei. Commercial and merchant banks freely allow non- the issuer.
residents to open foreign currency accounts without too many
restrictions on the movement of funds through these accounts. Currency
Visitors can bring any amount of foreign currency into or out The Malaysian unit of currency
of Malaysia or Singapore, although it must be declared at is the ringgit, denoted by RM
customs. However, there is a limit of the equivalent of before the price of an item.
US$10,000 in ringgit allowed into or out of Malaysia. Locals often refer to it, rather
confusingly, as dollars. It is
further divided into 100 sen
although tourists are unlikely to
need these small denomin-
ation coins unless shopping
in a local market. In Singapore,
the unit of currency is the
Singapore dollar, written S$,
which is made up of 100 cents.
The Brunei dollar is at par with
the Singapore dollar and is
legal tender in Singapore.
DIRECTORY
Citibank, one of the many international banks in Singapore Banks
Banks Citibank
favorable than at banks. Licensed Menara Citibank,165 Jalan
Maybank is Malaysia’s largest money changers generally stay Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.
bank. International banks, such open until 6pm and often offer Tel (03) 2383-8585.
as Citibank and HSBC, are also the best rates. Exchange facilities ∑ citibank.com.my
established in all three coun- can be difficult to find in remote
40A Orchard Road 01-00,
tries. Malaysian banking hours areas, especially in Sarawak and
Singapore. Map 1 F2.
are from 9:30am to 4pm from Sabah, so carry adequate cash Tel 6225-5225.
Monday to Friday and 9:30 to at all times. ∑ citibank.com.sg.
11:30am on Saturday. In the
Muslim states of Kedah, HSBC
Terengganu, and Kelantan, ATMs ∑ hsbc.com.my
however, the banks are open Automatic teller machines ∑ hsbc.com.sg
from 9:30am to 4pm from (ATMs) are now ubiquitous in Maybank
Saturday to Wednesday, and Malaysia, except in the more 3rd Floor (West Wing),
from 9:30 to 11am on Thursday; isolated areas, and have long 100 Jalan Tun Perak, Kuala
they remain closed on Friday. been so in Singapore. ATMs only Lumpur. Map 4 E1. Tel (03) 2074-
Banks in Singapore are open issue the currency of the 7266. ∑ maybank.com.my
from 9:30am to 3pm from respective country, and there is 3 Battery Road, Singapore.
Monday to Friday, and from a daily withdrawal limit of Map 5 E3. Tel 6550-7158.
9:30 to 11:30am on Saturday. around US$800. A fee is levied ∑ maybank.com.sg
for each transaction, usually
about US$3 on foreign cards. Credit Cards and
Changing Money Traveler’s Checks
Cash and traveler’s checks can
be exchanged at large branches Credit Cards and American Express
of all banks for a small service Traveler’s Checks Malaysia Tel (0377) 124-314.
Singapore Tel 1-800 823-2090.
fee. Most major currencies such Major credit cards can be used
as dollars and euros are easily in most urban and tourist areas, MasterCard
exchangeable, though outside with VISA and MasterCard Malaysia Tel 6209-9288.
the big cities, it can be difficult being the most widely accepted. Singapore Tel +1-636-722-7111.
to exchange other currencies They can also be used at ATMs VISA
such as the Thai baht or the for withdrawals and at major Malaysia Tel 1-800 802997
Indonesian rupiah. Top-end banks for cash advances. (stolen cards).
hotels will also exchange dollars Traveler’s checks, commonly Singapore Tel 1-800 448-1250
and some common currencies, issued by American Express (stolen cards).
but rates are usually less and VISA, can be exchanged at
Malay Ringgit
Bank notes are issued in denominations
of RM1, RM2, RM5, RM10, RM20, RM50,
and RM100. All notes bear the image of
Malaysia’s first prime minister, Tunku
Abdul Rahman. The ringgit is divided
into 100 sen, available in coins of 1, 5,
10, 20, and 50 sen.
1 ringgit
5 sen 10 sen
5 ringgit
20 sen 50 sen
10 ringgit
20 ringgit
Singapore Dollar
The Singapore dollar is made up of
100 cents, and coins are minted in
denominations of 1 (slowly being
phased out), 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents.
S$1 coins are also circulated.
Singapore dollars are issued in notes
of S$1, S$2, S$5, S$10, S$20, S$50,
2 dollars
S$100, S$500, and S$1,000. There is
a S$10,000 note, but it is rare.
5 dollars
1 cent 5 cents
10 dollars
10 cents 20 cents
50 dollars
50 cents 1 Singapore dollar 100 dollars

328 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media many local network companies

offer a certain number of free
The communications network in Malaysia, Singapore, and messages as promotions.
Brunei is fast and efficient, offering a variety of local, national,
and worldwide services. Local and international calls can be Internet Facilities
made from public telephones in all but the smallest of islands. The entire region has fully
Cell phone facilities and Internet access are particularly embraced the use of the
impressive, with networks that compete with the best in the Internet and cheap Internet
West. The postal system is reliable and well organized. access is available even in
International publications and several locally published remote locations. Internet
cafés in Malaysia charge by the
English newspapers and magazines are available in big cities.
hour and they can be found
in the major cities. Rates in
cheapest to phone home Singapore are comparable.
using a VoIP (voice over IP) Bigger hotels often have
service such as Skype. Internet access in rooms or in
Malaysian phone numbers a business center, but this is
generally consist of six or seven usually more expensive than
digits, except in Kuala Lumpur the Internet cafés. Many back-
which has eight-digit phone packer lodges offer free Internet
numbers. All numbers are access to their guests. For those
preceded by a two- or three- traveling with laptops and
digit area code. Phone numbers smartphones, Wi-Fi facilities are
all across Singapore consist of highly advanced in both
eight digits and there is no area Singapore and Malaysia. Note
code within the country. that wall sockets accommodate
three-pronged, square-pin
plugs, and adaptors are easily
Cell Phones available in most big towns.
Generally, cell phone network
Card- and coin-operated SingTel public coverage is good in Malaysia,
telephone booths in Singapore except in the remote regions Postal Services
of Sarawak and Sabah where Post offices, run by the
International and Local some networks work better Malaysian Postal Service and
Phone Calls than others. There is complete Singapore Post respectively, are
Public telephones can be coverage across Singapore. found all over Malaysia and
found all over Singapore, Cell phones with international Singapore and are generally very
Malaysia, and Brunei. They are roaming service will auto- efficient. Each Malaysian town
both phonecard- and coin- matically tune into one of the has a General Post Office (GPO)
operated, and most also accept local networks, but this service with poste restante, as do the
credit cards. Telekom Malaysia is very expensive. It is best to GPOs in Singapore and Brunei. In
is a national operator while buy a local prepaid SIM card, Malaysia, post offices are open
SingTel is Singapore’s main such as Maxis, Digi, and from 8am to 5pm Monday to
telephone company. Local calls Celcom in Malaysia, or SingTel Friday, and some Saturdays,
in Malaysia cost 10 sen for and M1 in Singapore; these are though in the states of Kedah,
unlimited time, and 10 cents for all widely available and are Terengganu, and Kelantan they
three minutes in Singapore. inexpensive to buy and top up. close on Friday instead of
Public telephones in all three Text messaging is cheap, and Sunday. The opening hours in
countries offer international
direct dialing (IDD), and it is best
to use a phonecard for these
calls. Phonecards of several
companies are available at
petrol stations and convenience
stores, such as 7-Eleven, in
denominations of between RM5
and RM50 in Malaysia, S$2 and
S$50 in Singapore, and B$10
and B$100 in Brunei. Most big
hotels in the region also have
IDD facilities, but this service is
extremely expensive. It will
almost always work out A well-equipped Internet café in Malaysia
Singapore are from 8am to 6pm DIRECTORY

Monday to Friday, and from 8am
to 2pm on Saturday. Brunei post
Telephone Calls
offices open from 7:45am to
and Cell Phones
4:30pm Monday to Thursday Celcom
and Saturday, and from 8 to ∑ celcom.com.my
11am and 2 to 4pm on Friday.
Letters and parcels posted Digi
from Malaysian towns usually ∑ digi.com.my
take a week to reach overseas M1
destinations. Anything posted ∑ m1.com.sg
from remote places in Sabah
and Sarawak may take a few Maxis
weeks to reach its destination. ∑ maxis.com.my
Postcards and aerograms cost Virtual Malaysia magazine, packed with SingTel
50 sen from Malaysia, and 50 useful information ∑ singtel.com
cents from Singapore for the
same service. Postcards from and big cities in Malaysia, Telekom Malaysia
Brunei to any destination cost such as Kuala Lumpur. These ∑ tm.com.my
30 cents. Most major post include magazines such as
offices in the region have fax Newsweek and Time and Postal Services
facilities too. Several well-known newspapers such as the DHL
international courier services International New York Times. Malaysia Tel (03) 7964-2800.
such as DHL, Federal Express, Both countries have local Singapore Tel 6880-6060.
and United Parcel Service newspapers in English, though ∑ dhl.com
(UPS) operate in both Malaysia government censorship is
and Singapore as do local strict, and dissenting views are Federal Express
courier companies such as rarely published. The leading Malaysia Tel (03) 2179-0370.
Nationwide Express. English daily in Malaysia is The Singapore Tel 1 800 743 2626.
Star, besides New Straits Times, ∑ fedex.com
The Sun, and The Malay Mail.
Television and Radio Malaysian Postal Service
These are all good sources of
∑ pos.com.my
Both Malaysia and Singapore information for upcoming
have a huge selection of events. In Sabah and Sarawak, Nationwide Express
international satellite television the leading newspapers are Malaysia Tel (03) 5512-7000.
channels. Terrestrial TV stations New Sabah Times and the Singapore Tel 6285-4223.
are closely monitored for signs Sarawak Tribune. Malaysia also
Singapore Post
of criticism of the respective publishes some English
∑ singpost.com.sg
governments. RTM1 and RTM2 magazines, including Virtual
are Malaysia’s government-run Malaysia. Singapore’s main United Parcel Service
TV stations, which broadcast English papers are The Straits Malaysia Tel (03) 7784-1233.
uncontroversial programs in Times and New Paper, while Singapore Tel 6883-7000.
Bahasa Malayu. Commercial Borneo’s main newspaper is ∑ ups.com/asia
stations such as NTV7 feature Borneo Bulletin.
English news, and international
soaps and films.
Six government-run radio Useful Dialling Codes
stations air programs in various • The country code for • Country codes: USA and
languages including English. Malaysia is 60; Singapore 65; Canada 1; Australia 61; UK 44;
Singapore’s television and radio Brunei 673. New Zealand 64; France 33.
channels offer a mixture of • To call these countries from • Calls between Malaysia and
English, Tamil, Chinese, and abroad, dial your international Singapore are considered long-
Malay programs. Brunei has access code, the country distance, not international calls.
five TV channels with many code, the area code minus • For interstate calls in Malaysia
imported programs and the first 0 (except Singapore), dial the area code followed by
two radio channels. and the number. the number. For calls within a
• For international calls from state, omit the area code.
Malaysia dial 00, from • For directory enquiries in
Newspapers and Singapore dial 001, and from Malaysia and Singapore, dial
Magazines Brunei 01, followed by the 103; in Brunei, dial 0213.
country code, the area code • For the international operator
A wide range of international minus the first 0, and the in Malaysia, dial 108; in
publications is available in local number. Singapore, dial 104.
most major hotels, bookstores,
and newsstands in Singapore,
330 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most overseas visitors to Malaysia as Tigerair in Singapore and AirAsia in
and Singapore arrive at Kuala Lumpur Malaysia, to make short hops within
International Airport (KLIA) and Changi Southeast Asia, as well as long-haul flights
Airport, respectively. Many visitors prefer to Australia, and India. Traveling by rail
to arrive overland taking a train or a bus can be fun, with comfortable sleeper
from Thailand, and a few opt for cruise compartments for long journeys, though
ships. Although most towns in Malaysia the network is limited to a couple of lines.
are well connected by domestic flights Both Singapore and Kuala Lumpur have
and buses, remote areas in Sarawak and good public transport services, such as
Sabah suffer from poor road conditions. the Light Rail Transit (LRT) and the Mass
These days, increasing numbers of Rapid Transport System (MRT), that make
tourists opt for low-cost carriers, such life easy for visitors to these cities.
July to August, and December

to January, prices soar for flights
from the USA and Europe.
With over 70 international
carriers using the main airports
there is stiff competition, and it
makes sense to compare rates
before booking a flight. For
travelers already in Southeast
Asia, it is worth considering
budget airlines such as Tigerair
and AirAsia, which offer fares
comparable to those on buses
Budget airline AirAsia, one of several low-cost options and trains. The ticket price is
usually exclusive of international
Arriving by Air Changi Airports as their departure tax.
Over 70 international carriers gateways to Southeast Asia, or
connect Singapore and Malaysia as stopover points from Europe
to most continents. These to New Zealand and Australia. Arriving by Land
include Air Canada, Cathay Both airports are super-modern Traveling by train is a popular
Pacific, China Airlines, Emirates and well equipped with all the way to enter Malaysia from
Airlines, Japan Airlines, Garuda facilities that travelers might Thailand, crossing the border
Indonesia, British Airways, need, such as shops, restaurants, at Padang Besar, changing at
KLM, Qantas, Thai Airways, and and Internet access. KLIA’s Butterworth for Penang or
United Airlines. second terminal, KLIA2, caters continuing to Kuala Lumpur’s
Low-cost carriers such primarily to low-cost airlines KL Sentral or Singapore’s
as AirAsia, Silk Air, Tigerair, and is connected to the main Woodlands Train Checkpoint.
Malindo Air terminal by The Eastern & Oriental Express
(see p332), and train, which (E & O), combining luxury with
Firefly offer takes 3 classic sightseeing, covers the
several options minutes. route from Bangkok to
for passengers Airport arrival hall sign Passengers Singapore, passing through
flying in from arriving at
other countries. There are Changi Airport, 10 miles (16 km)
flights from Singapore to all of from central Singapore, have a
Malaysia’s regional airports. choice of transport to reach the
Malaysia Airlines (MAS) city, including MRT, limousine
and Singapore Airlines, the services, and airport shuttles.
national carriers, are well
connected to most parts of the
world. There is a regular service Air Fares
between Kuala Lumpur and There is a wide range of tickets
Singapore, operated by both available for travel to and
airlines as well as AirAsia and around Singapore and Malaysia,
Tigerair. Many international but the prices vary seasonally. Luxurious interior of the Eastern &
airlines use either KLIA or During the peak months from Oriental Express
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 331
Kuala Lumpur’s KL Sentral. travel regularly between Organized Tours

The main route for buses Singapore, Port Klang, Penang, The most economical way
and taxis from Thailand is via Pulau Langkawi, and even Phuket to visit Malaysia and Singapore
Bukit Kayu Hitam at the in Thailand. A ferry link connects is by booking a place on an
Malaysian border. A causeway Penang and Melaka on the pen- organized tour. A package
connects Johor Bahru at the insula with Medan and Dumai in deal usually includes flights,
southern tip of Malaysia to Sumatra (Indonesia). There are hotels, road transport, guides,
Singapore. From Pontianak in regular longboat services and admission fee to tourist
Kalimantan (Indonesian between Pulau Langkawi and sights for little more than
Borneo), it is possible to enter Satun in South Thailand. Ferries the cost of a flight. Tour
Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo. and small boats also connect companies such as Borneo
The main terminal in Kuala Singapore to Tanjong Belungkor Adventure (see p317) offer
Lumpur is the Pudu Sentral in the state of Johor in Malaysia. exciting itineraries.
station though more and more
long-distance buses are using
Terminal Bersepadu Selatan
(TBS) which is south of the city.
Singapore has many different
bus stations: check in advance
which one you will embark from.
Arriving by Sea
Both countries can be reached
by sea. Malaysia has several
authorized entry points. Some
cruise liners, such as Star Cruises, A cruise liner docked at Langkawi
DIRECTORY
Arriving by Air Emirates Airlines Malaysia Airlines United Airlines
Kuala Lumpur: (MAS) Kuala Lumpur:
AirAsia Tel (03) 6207-4999. Kuala Lumpur: Tel (03) 2161-1433.
Kuala Lumpur. Singapore: Tel 6735-3535. Tel (03) 7846-3000. Singapore: Tel 6873-3533.
∑ airasia.com ∑ emirates.com Singapore: ∑ ual.com
Tel 6336-6777.
Air Canada Firefly ∑ malaysiaairlines. Arriving by Land
Kuala Lumpur: Kuala Lumpur. com
Tel (03) 2148-8596. Tel (03) 7845-4543. E & O Express
Qantas ∑ belmond.com
Singapore: ∑ fireflyz.com.my Kuala Lumpur:
Tel 6256-1198. Garuda Indonesia Tel (03) 6279-5033. KL Sentral
∑ aircanada.ca Kuala Lumpur: Singapore: Kuala Lumpur.
Tel 6415-7373. Tel (03) 2279-8888.
British Airways Tel (03) 2162-2811.
∑ qantas.com.au
Kuala Lumpur: Singapore: Tel 6250-2888. Pudu Sentral Bus
∑ garuda-indonesia. Silk Air Station
Tel (03) 7712-4747.
com Singapore.
Singapore: Kuala Lumpur.
Tel 6223-8888.
Tel 6622-1747. Japan Airlines Tel (03) 2274-6063.
∑ silkair.com
∑ britishairways.com Kuala Lumpur: Woodlands Train
Tel (03) 2161-1722. Singapore Airlines
Changi Airport Kuala Lumpur: Checkpoint
Singapore: Tel 6221-0522. Singapore.
Singapore. Tel 6542-4422. Tel (03) 2692-3122.
∑ jal.com Tel 6221-3390.
∑ changiairport.com Singapore:
Jetstar Tel 6223-8888.
Cathay Pacific Singapore. Tel 6822-2288. ∑ singaporeair.com Arriving by Sea
Kuala Lumpur: ∑ jetstar.com Thai Airways Star Cruises
Tel (03) 2035-2777. Kuala Lumpur: Malaysia.
KLIA
Singapore: Tel (03) 2031-2900. Tel (03) 3103-1313.
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel 6533-1333. Tel (03) 8776-4386. Singapore: ∑ starcruises.com
∑ cathaypacific.com ∑ klia.com.my Tel 1-800 2249-977.
China Airlines ∑ thaiair.com
KLM
Kuala Lumpur: Kuala Lumpur: Tigerair
Tel (03) 2148-9417. Tel (03) 2711-9811. Singapore.
Singapore: Tel 6737-2211. Singapore: Tel 6737-7622. Tel 6538-4437.
∑ china-airlines.com ∑ klm.com ∑ tigerairways.com
332 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Traveling by Air
Malaysia has a very good network of internal flights, making air
travel a comfortable and convenient way of getting around.
The national carrier, Malaysia Airlines (MAS), is well connected
to almost all popular tourist destinations. Singapore itself is
too small to require internal flights. With the advent of budget
airlines, such as the hugely successful AirAsia, the much smaller
Malindo Air, Firefly and MAS Wings, the cost of flying has
reduced considerably. Most big towns in Malaysia now have an
airport, and it is easy to get tickets either through local travel
agencies or by booking online. Flights are generally punctual, Passengers waiting to check in at an
efficient, and inexpensive, which is particularly useful for airport counter
visitors who want to see as much of the country as possible
within a limited period of time. However, the smaller towns are
connected in most cases only
by the services of MAS Wings.
Domestic Airlines (see p330), the largest and most
Until recently, Malaysia Airlines well-connected airport in
(see p330) had a virtual mono- Malaysia. KLIA2 is the airport’s Flight Network
poly on all domestic flights low-cost terminal. The airport While most major Malaysian
throughout Malaysia. The connects to KL Sentral via the towns are linked by direct
situation has now changed Express Rail Link. Malindo flights, smaller towns also have
with the arrival of AirAsia (see Air operates some flights from connecting networks. Johor
p330) and MAS Wings (a Skypark Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Bahru provides services to
subsidiary of Malaysia Airlines), Airport, Kuala Lumpur’s former Penang, Ipoh, Kuala Lumpur,
both of which offer low-cost, international airport. Kota Bahru, Kuching, Sibu,
no-frills flights with limited In Peninsular Malaysia, there Miri, Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan,
seating space and payment are airports at Ipoh, Penang, and Tawau.
for in-flight refreshments. Kuala Lumpur, Alor Setar, In Malaysian Borneo, while
AirAsia now flies on long-haul Langkawi, Kota Bharu, Kuantan, the majority of flights originate
international routes, while Kuala Terengganu, and Johor in the provincial capitals of
MAS Wings operates turbo- Bahru. Airports in Sarawak Kota Kinabalu and Kuching, it is
propeller plane services in include Kuching, Sibu, Mukah, also possible to make short
Malaysian Borneo. Miri, Bintulu, Belaga, Lawas, hops without returning to the
Malindo Air flies out of KLIA. Mulu, Ba Kalalan, Long Akah, original point using the rural
Destinations include several Long Banga, Long Lellang, Long air services. Several 19-seater
cities in Malaysia as well as Seridan, Bario, and Limbang. In and 50-seater planes help
India, Thailand and Nepal. Sabah, there are airports at Kota maintain communications
Kinabalu, Labuan, Kudat, with the remote provinces. A
Sandakan, Lahad Datu, Tawau, visitor in Sarawak can therefore
Domestic Airports as well as Semporna. go from Kuching to Mulu via
All Malaysian Airlines domestic The larger airports in all Sibu and Miri, or from Kota
flights depart from the state- these states are serviced by Kinabalu to Semporna via
of-the-art Kuala Lumpur both MAS and the fast Sandakan in Sabah. There
International Airport (KLIA) expanding network of AirAsia. are also regular direct flights
between both Miri and
Mulu in Sarawak and Kota
Kinabalu in Sabah.
Tickets and
Reservations
Tickets for flights on any of the
airlines listed in the directory
can be purchased from travel
agents, although these days it
is easier to book online with a
credit card. All airlines permit
online booking through their
websites and e-tickets are the
MAS Wings offers budget domestic and regional services norm. While there is usually
some flexibility about changing Singapore Airlines before and Sarawak as these regions
dates for reser vations with making any reservations. can be difficult and time-
major carriers such as MAS and Passengers arriving by interna- consuming for independent
Singapore Airlines, budget tional flights can also get a travelers to get around in.
airlines do not allow Visit Malaysia pass issued by AD Travel, Asian Overland
rescheduling. Changing the MAS, which entitles them to Services, Borneo Eco Tours,
date of the flight after making a five domestic flights for Crest Travel and Tours,
booking with a budget airline US$199. AirAsia also does a Discovery Tours in Sabah,
requires payment of a penalty similar pass that includes flights Discovery Tours and Travel
or the purchase of a new ticket. to its neighboring ASEAN in Singapore, East West Exe-
countries. The Singapore cutive Travellers, Ezz Travel,
Stopover Holiday offered by Honeyworld Holidays, Planet
Fares and Special Singapore Airlines includes free Travel, Malaysia Tourism,
Discounts bus rides and entry to several STA Travel, Skyzone Tours
With the introduction of attractions as well as special and Travel, Transtar Travel,
budget airlines in Southeast hotel rates and discounts at Pedati Saujana Holidays, Star
Asia, travelers have a wide shopping outlets. Holiday Mart, TDK Travel and
range of travel options. Low- Tours, and TVI Holidays offer
cost carriers connect Malaysia planned holidays.
with the Middle East and Travel Agencies
Australia. Checking in luggage, Both countries have travel
food, and entertainment cost agents who can assist with
extra. Also, by the time tax and travel arrangements, hotel
fuel surcharges are added, bookings, and guided tours.
flights are no longer as cheap Travel agency staff should be
as they first appear. Potential experts in the region who can
travelers need to weigh the advise you as to where to go
pros and cons of traveling with and where to stay according to
different carriers. It is also your personal requirements.
worth check ing promotions Package holidays are a Travel agency signboards lining a street in
and offers from MAS and particularly good idea in Sabah Little India, Georgetown
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines Crest Travel and Tours Honeyworld Holidays Star Holiday Mart
111 North Bridge Rd, 24 Raffles Place, 29/30 Duxton Road,
Malindo Air 05–08 Peninsula Plaza, Singapore. Singapore. Tel 6735-9009.
∑ malindoair.com Singapore. Tel 6337-9189. Tel 6532-2232. ∑ starmart.com.sg
∑ cresttravel.sg ∑ honeyworld
MAS Wings STA Travel
holidays.com
Tel (03) 7843-3000. Discovery Tours 400 Orchard Road,
∑ maswings.com.my Lot G.22, Ground Floor, Malaysia Tourism Singapore. Tel 6737-7188.
Wisma Sabah, Jalan Tun 17th Floor, Putra World ∑ statravel.com.sg
Travel Agencies Fuad Stephens, Kota Trade Center, Jalan Tun
TDK Travel and Tours
Kinabalu, Sabah. Tel (88) Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
B6 Sri Dagangan 2,
AD Travel 257-368. ∑ discovery Tel (03) 2163-0162.
Kuantan, Pahang Darul.
112 Jalan Imbi, tours.com.my ∑ tourism.gov.my
Tel (09) 513-4466.
Kuala Lumpur. Discovery Tours and Pedati Saujana ∑ tdktravel.blogspot.hk
Tel (03) 2148-4999. Travel Holidays
∑ adtravel.com.my Transtar Travel
Tel 6733-4333. 2A Bangunan MPSP,
01–15 Golden Mile
∑ discoverytours.com. Kedah Darul Aman.
Asian Overland Complex, Singapore.
sg Tel (04) 425-2052.
Services Tel 6299-9009.
∑ pedati-saujana.com
39–40 Jalan Mamanda 9, East West Executive ∑ transtar.com.sg
Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Travellers Planet Travel
TVI Holidays
Tel (03) 4252-9100. 24 Sin Ming Lane, Block 925 Yishun Central
1 Park Road, Singapore.
∑ asianoverland. com. 03-105 Midview City, 1, Singapore.
Tel 6533-2533.
Singapore. Tel 6336-6811. Tel 6286-9009.
my ∑ tviholidays.com
∑ eastwestplanners. ∑ planettravel. com.sg
Borneo Eco Tours com
Skyzone Tours and
Lot 1, Pusat Perindustrian, Ezz Travel Travel
Kolombong Jaya, Jalan 62E Ground Floor, Lot 3.05–08 Shaw Parade,
Kolombong, Kota Jalan Genuang, Segamat, Kuala Lumpur.
Kinabalu, Sabah. Johor. Tel (07) 931-6601. Tel (03) 2141-8588.
Tel (88) 438-300. ∑ ezztravel.com ∑ skyzone.my
334 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Traveling by Train and Boat people who operate the

legendary Venice–Simplon
While domestic flights are cheap and convenient for visitors Orient Express, it offers similar
with limited time, boat and train travel offers travelers a sense five-star service and standards.
of the geographical variety and richness of Malaysia and The train runs a couple of times
Singapore. The railroad connects many major towns in a month between Singapore
and Bangkok, and the journey
Peninsular Malaysia, while visitors to Sabah can experience
takes 3 days/2 nights. Traveling
rail travel on a short stretch from Kota Kinabalu to Tenom. A in the reverse direction,
range of boats is available to tourists, from dugout canoes to Bangkok to Singapore, takes
luxury cruise liners. Many, such as the ekspres boats of 4 days/3 nights. The high prices
Sarawak, have a distinctive character found nowhere else in include a private sleeper, meals,
Malaysia. Boat and train journeys take longer than flights and a visit to the Bridge on the
River Kwai, and a brief tour
are suitable for travelers on an extended holiday.
of Georgetown in Penang.
Travelers have high praise
for the bygone glamor and
unique experience offered by
the company – for many,
it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip.
Train Tickets, Fares, and

Reservations
Tickets can be purchased at all
mainline stations, through the
KTM website, or from travel
agents. Fares for first-class travel
are about double the price of
second class, which is
KTM Komuter train at a Malaysian station approximately double that of
third class. Sleeping berths are
Railroad Network In Borneo, the only railroad line available for a small charge in
The Malaysian railroad system, is in Sabah, and visitors can ride addition to the basic fare.
Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad the short stretch from Kota Tourist rail passes offering
(KTM), is a modern, economical, Kinabalu to Tenom, passing unlimited train travel are also
and comfortable mode of through the long gorge of the available. Visitors can pay US$35
transport. The railroad was the Sungai Padas (see p187). for 5 days, US$55 for 10 days,
only way to get around the Construction of a high-speed and US$70 for 15 days. The
country before the construction rail link between Kuala Lumpur passes are discounted by almost
of the peninsula’s road network, and Singapore is expected to 50 percent for children. The fare
and many of the stations in the start in 2016; this should cut the from Singapore to Bangkok on
interior still retain their original journey time to 90 minutes the luxurious E & O Express is
colonial architecture. from the current 8 hours. US$2,280.
The network consists of two Advance booking is advisable
main lines, with a few minor for express trains if a sleeping
branches running down to the Trains berth is required.
west coast. From its starting There are two types of trains:
point in Singapore, the West express trains that stop only at
Coast line heads north to Kuala the main stations, and the
Lumpur, then on to Ipoh and slower and cheaper local trains
Butterworth, before finally that also stop at smaller stations.
connecting at the border town Express trains usually consist of
of Padang Besar with Thai first and second class, while
Railways. local trains are generally third
The second route is the East class. All first- and second-class
Coast line, popularly known as carriages have sleeper berths on
The Jungle Railway (see p155). overnight trains; they have air
Branching off the West Coast conditioning, which is generally
line at Gemas, about 37 miles very cold, making a jacket or
(60 km) northeast of Melaka, it blanket a necessity.
heads north through Kuala Lipis In a class of its own is the
to Tumpat on the northeast Eastern & Oriental Express
coast near the Thai border. (E & O). Run by the same Ticket barrier at a platform in Kuala Lumpur
DIRECTORY
Railroad Stations
Alor Star
Tel (04) 731-4045.
Butterworth
Tel (04) 323-7962.
Gemas
Tel (07) 948-2863.
Ipoh
Passengers boarding ferries on the Batang Rajang Tel (05) 254-0481.
Boat Facilities, Services, Johor Bahru

Langkawi from Penang, and Tel (07) 223-4727.
and Fares hourly services both from Kuala
With regular services to Kedah and Kuala Perlis. Regular Klang
popular destinations, boats and ferries run between Lumut and Tel (03) 3371-9917.
ferries are among the most Pulau Pangkor. Kuala Lipis
popular ways to get to riverside On the east coast, there are Tel (09) 312-1341.
towns and offshore islands. several daily ferries from Merang
Most traditional bumboats to Pulau Redang and from Kuala Kuala Lumpur Sentral
Tel (03) 2730-2000.
have been replaced by faster Besut to the Perhentian Islands.
and sleeker ekpres boats that Visitors to Pulao Tioman can get Padang Besar
offer basic seating with a ferry from Mersing in Malaysia. Tel (04) 949-0231.
canopies for protection from There are no boat services
Pasir Mas
the elements. Since they are connecting Peninsular Malaysia
Tel (09) 790-9025.
intended to be used only for with Malaysian Borneo.
short journeys, there are In Sarawak, longboats and Singapore
usually no toilets or facilities ekpres boats are the principal Tel 6222-5165.
for buying refreshments. methods of travel. They link
Tumpat
Although most boats are Kuching with Sibu, Kapit, and
Tel (09) 725-7232.
quite modern, safety pre- Belaga along Batang Rajang,
cautions can be somewhat while in the north of the prov- Railroad Network
lax, with some operators ince, they are the main modes
overloading their vessels or of transport along Sungai Keretapi Tanah Melayu
not insisting on the use of life Baram. While there are no river- Berhad (KTM)
jackets. Services are also likely boat services in Sabah, a regular Tel (03) 2267-1200.
to be temporarily suspended ferry runs between Menumbok ∑ ktmb.com.my
due to inclement weather and Pulau Labuan.
during the monsoon. Visitors to Singapore can Trains
Boat fares vary according to enjoy a cruise on a traditional
Eastern & Oriental Express
the length of the journey and bumboat along the Singapore
(E & O)
the condition of the vessel, but River or around the southern
∑ belmond.com
an average hour-long journey islands. Several companies
costs about RM15. Advance organize these cruises, including Singapore Cruises
booking for tickets is not Riverboat Cruises, Singapore
required, and payment can be River Cruise, Singapore River Riverboat Cruises
made at the jetty or on board. Explorer, Singapore Island ∑ rivercruise.com.sg
Cruises, and Sindo Ferry.
Sindo Ferry
Boat Routes and ∑ sindoferry.com.sg
Cruises Singapore Island Cruises
In Malaysia, many major towns ∑ islandcruise.com.sg
along the coasts and along Singapore River Cruise
rivers are connected by ferry, or ∑ rivercruise.com.sg
ekspres boats. On the west coast
of the peninsula, Butterworth is Singapore River Explorer
linked to Pulau Penang by a car ∑ riverexplorer.sg
ferry, which remains popular
despite the existence of a road
bridge between the mainland
and the island. There is a twice- Passengers purchasing tickets at a
daily ferry service to Pulau ferry port
336 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Traveling by Road that long-distance bus terminals

are often on the outskirts of a
The roads in Malaysia and Singapore are generally in very town, requiring a local bus or taxi
good condition and the network is comprehensive, making it ride to get there, and that long-
easy to get around. There is an extensive and inexpensive bus distance buses tend to set out in
the early morning or evening.
system, and both state-run and private companies operate
services that connect many major towns in Malaysian Borneo
and most towns on the peninsula, with good connections to Bus Tickets and Fares
Singapore as well. Long-distance taxis are a good option for It is a good idea to reserve
group travel, while car hire is reasonably priced and a good tickets a day ahead, especially
alternative for those who prefer flexible itineraries. during public holidays when
many locals are traveling. Most
people buy their tickets at the
bus company office located at
each bus station just before
boarding, but to guarantee a
place, you can book tickets up
to one month ahead on www.
easybook.com for bus travel on
many different operators across
Malaysia and between Malaysia
and Singapore. Departure times
are displayed on a placard in
Long-distance luxury buses run by Transnasional front of the office. Fares are rea-
sonable and depend on the
Road Network Long-Distance Buses comfort provided by the bus.
Peninsular Malaysia’s road Traveling around Malaysia by bus
network is excellent, offering is fast, comfortable, and cheap.
one of the best ways of Several private operators, Long-Distance Taxis
exploring the country. The main including Plusliner and Long-distance taxis or share taxis
road that runs along the Transnasional, run air- are worth considering, especially
peninsula is the North–South conditioned luxury buses when traveling in groups of
Highway, a six-lane toll road between major towns. Buses three or four. Solo travelers will
between Johor Bahru in the linking smaller towns make need to wait until the driver
south and the Thai border. more stops and are not all has a full complement of
Route 8 goes up the east coast, air-conditioned. In rural four passengers, as these
linking Bentong, near Kuala areas, regular buses are taxis operate on a shared-
Lumpur, with Kota Bharu in the replaced by minibuses or cost basis. The waiting time
north. Route 4 and Route 145 converted pick-up trucks. is usually not long, and is
connect the east and west Other major bus operators shorter early in the morning.
coasts of the peninsula. Various include Sri Maju, Transtar, It is also possible to charter
other roads connect towns in Aeroline, Hasry Express, the whole taxi for the
the interior. Biaramas, Tung Ma Express, price of four single fares.
Due to the rugged terrain, the and Dyana Express. There is usually a long-
network in Malaysian Borneo is There are bus services to distance taxi stand right
limited. In Sarawak the only Singapore from several Taxi stand next to the long-distance
long-distance road runs up the Malaysian towns, including sign bus station in each town,
coast between Kuching and Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Ipoh, with fares for various
Miri, although there are and Penang. Buses from Malaysia destinations posted on a board.
numerous good roads around stop at Golden Mile Complex, Taxi fares are about double the
Kuching itself. Sabah has a Kovan Hub, Boon Lay Shopping bus fare, but the service is much
comparatively weak network, Centre, The Plaza Beach Road, quicker. Night journeys may
especially the roads in the and Golden Mile Tower. Note have an additional fare.
interior; however, the road
heading north and south
along the coast from Kota
Kinabalu is good.
Malaysia has two land bridge
connections with Singapore – a
causeway between Johor Bahru
and Singapore and a second
link between Tuas in Singapore
and Geylang Patah in Malaysia. A long-distance taxi
Car and Motorbike cheaper rates. While renting

Rentals from a local firm may be tempt-
Renting a car offers travelers the ing, it could be a problem if the
freedom to change their travel vehicle breaks down far from
plans at will. Rental agencies the rental office and the com-
usually require that drivers be pany has no local backup, so
over 23 years of age. Overseas enquire about their network
visitors will need a license before signing a deal. Visitors
written in English script. should note that 4WD vehicles
Car hire rates are higher in for rent are scarce, so those
Malaysian Borneo than on the heading for the hills should
peninsula. While insurance is Motorbikes lined up for hire outside employ a reliable tour operator
generally included in the price, it a rental agency who can provide an appropriate
is wise to spend extra for vehicle with a driver.
Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) out rarely ask to see a license.
insurance, which covers costs If you do not have a license,
resulting from accidents. Even however, your insurance is invalid. Rules of the Road
better, buy a rental excess Rental rates are reasonable, and Vehicles drive on the left in
insurance policy ahead of time in this can be a good way of explor- both Singapore and Malaysia.
your home country. Renting a ing islands, such as Pulau Penang The use of seat belts is obliga-
car in Singapore costs more than and Pulau Langkawi, or attractions tory, and within cities, the
in Malaysia, with rental and fuel on the outskirts of cities. speed limit is 31 mph (50
costing almost double. There are All major rental agencies, km/h). Most road signs are self-
also surcharges for driving hired including Budget, Hertz, Avis, explanatory, except for the
cars from Malaysia to Singapore and Thrifty are represented, ubiquitous awas in Malaysia,
and vice versa. along with local agencies, such meaning “be careful.” There are
Hiring a motorbike is less as Mayflower, Orix, Hornbill, heavy penalties in both
formal, and the guesthouse Pronto, Extra, Kinabalu, and countries for those convicted
owners or shops who rent them Popular, which sometimes offer of drinking and driving.
DIRECTORY
Long-Distance Sri Maju Extra Mayflower
Buses Nos. 2, 4, & 6, Beverley Hotel, Mayflower Building,
Jalan Bendahara, Ipoh, Jalan Kemajuan, Kota Kuala Lumpur.
Aeroline Malaysia. Tel (05) 253- Kinabalu, Malaysia. Tel (03) 6252-1888.
Kuala Lumpur: 5367. ∑ srimaju.com Tel (088) 218-160. ∑ mayflower carrental.
Tel (03) 6258-8800. com.my
∑ e-erac-online.com
Singapore: Transnasional
Tel 6733-7010. Kuala Lumpur. Hertz Orix
∑ aeroline.com.my Tel (03) 4047-7878. B10, Terminal Building, Counter C2, Arrival
∑ transnasional. KLIA, Malaysia. Level, Main Terminal
Biaramas com.my Building, KLIA, Malaysia.
Tel (03) 8776-4507.
Lot 2922 & 2923, Tel (03) 8787-4294.
Transtar ∑ hertz-malaysia.com
Jalan Datuk Tawi Sli, ∑ orixauto.com.my
Kuching, Singapore. Tel 6299-9009. 15 Scotts Road,
∑ transtar.com.sg Popular
Malaysia. Thong-Teck Building,
501 Guillemard Road,
Tel (082) 456-999. Tung Ma Express Singapore. Singapore. Tel 6742-8888.
∑ easybus.com Jalan Padang, Kota Map 1 F2. ∑ popularcar.com
Dyana Express Kinabalu, Malaysia. Tel 6734-4646. ∑ hertz.
Tel (019) 882-7334. com Pronto
Northern Bus Terminal,
No. 98, Jalan Padungan,
Kota Kinabalu. Hornbill
Car and Motorbike Kuching, Malaysia.
Tel (088) 389-997. Lot 99, Jalan Datuk
Rentals Tel (082) 237-889.
Hasry Express Abang Abdul Rahim, ∑ prontocarrental.com
Cnr Lavender St & Kallang Avis Kuching, Malaysia.
Thrifty
Bahru Rd, Singapore. B-16, Main Terminal, Tel (082) 343-489.
20 Changi North
Tel 6294-9306. KLIA, Malaysia. ∑ hbcrsb@streamyx.
Crescent, Singapore.
∑ easybus.com Tel (03) 9222-2558. com
Tel 6741-6222.
Terminal 2, Singapore. Kinabalu ∑ thrifty.rentals.
Plusliner
Tel 6542-8855. com.sg
Kuala Lumpur: Karamunsing Complex,
∑ avis.com
Tel (03) 2274-0499. Kota Kinabalu,
Singapore: Budget Malaysia.
Tel 6256-5755. Tel 1-800 801-563. Tel (088) 232-602.
∑ plusliner.com.my ∑ budget.com ∑ kinabalurac.com.my
338 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting around KL & Singapore

Both Kuala Lumpur and Singapore are relatively easy to get
around, as there is a variety of transport methods at a visitor’s
disposal. The Light Rail Transit (LRT) and Mass Rapid Transit
(MRT) metro systems are swift and efficient. Bus lines cover
both cities quite thoroughly, and metered taxis are
convenient and easy to find. Though traffic in KL is a growing
problem,some trishaws, or three-wheeled bicycle taxis, still
ply the streets offering fun but expensive rides for tourists.
The most enjoyable way of getting around is walking, if you
can cope with the heat, but, while Singapore is pedestrian- Fully air-conditioned MRT train traveling on
friendly, Kuala Lumpur is not easy to walk around. an elevated track
conducive to strolling around or ticket counter at the airport.

window-shopping, especially Singapore’s MRT is often
around Chinatown. The hot and acclaimed as the best metro in
humid climate of both cities the world because of its clean
requires precautions such as carriages, speedy service, and
using sunblock, carrying low prices. The most convenient
enough drinking water, and way to pay is the stored-value
limiting walks to a few hours to ticket, called an EZ-link card
avoid exhaustion. If you have worth S$12, which includes a S$5
an iPhone, the handy app deposit and is valid on all MRT,
GoThere.sg tells you how to get LRT, and bus journeys. Any credit
to any destination in Singapore on the card can be reclaimed at a
Pedestrians window-shopping in Kuala on foot or by taxi, train, or bus. card outlet on departure. Tourist
Lumpur’s Chinatown day tickets can be bought for
1–3 days of unlimited travel
Walking Metros Tickets can be purchased online,
All the main areas of interest in In Kuala Lumpur the LRT is a fast at MRT stations and Singapore
Kuala Lumpur, such as the and economical way of getting visitor centers. Smoking, eating,
colonial district, Chinatown, and around the city, with trains and drinking are prohibited on
Little India, are close together arriving every 5 to 15 minutes the MRT.
and can easily be covered on between 6am and 11:20pm. It is
foot. However, as six-lane roads possible to pay for a single trip,
and flyovers divide Kuala Lumpur but it is better to get a myrapid Buses
into sections unconnected by card if you are staying a few Kuala Lumpur is well served by
sidewalks, strolling beyond these days; this stored-value ticket can buses, which run at close
areas is unviable. Traffic is fast- also be used on Rapid KL buses intervals between 6am and
moving and heavy, so visitors and the monorail. For tourists, 11pm, although poor signage
should always be alert. the KL Travel Pass includes the and problems with route infor-
The situation is better in KLIA Ekspres from the airport mation can occasionally cause
Singapore. The city center is and all trains and buses in the visitors some confusion. One of
pedestrian-friendly and city. Buy it at the KL Ekspres the most useful services for
tourists is the Go-KL free shuttle
buses that criss-cross the city
linking many downtown
locations. There are 65 stops in
total, on four lines.
In Singapore there are two
major bus companies, SBS
Transit and SMRT, who also run
train and taxi services. As on the
MRT, the easiest way to pay the
fare is the EZ-link card, which
must be tapped against a
machine when boarding and
leaving the bus. If paying by
cash, on boarding the bus drop
the exact fare in the box as no
Passengers waiting to board a city bus in Kuala Lumpur change is given.
Taxis
DIRECTORY
Taxis can be particularly useful
when arriving in an unknown Buses
city. In Kuala Lumpur, red and Rapid KL
white taxis charge an initial fare of No.1 Jalan PJU 1A/46, Petaling
RM3 for the first mile, and 10 Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.
cents for every 220 yards (200 m) Tel 1-800 388-228.
thereafter. Drivers often decline ∑ rapidkl.com.my
to use the meter with tourists,
SBS Transit
and try to agree on a fixed fare
205 Braddell Road, Singapore.
that is inevitably higher than the
Tel 1-800 287-2727.
meter rate. It is wise to confirm ∑ sbstransit.com.sg
the usual fare for a planned jour-
ney with your hotel before SMRT
setting out. Most fares in the city Singapore.
should be RM15, but 50 percent The enormous Petronas Towers, one of the Tel 1-800 336-8900.
∑ smrt.com.sg
extra is charged after midnight. If highlights of a city tour
traveling from KL Sentral or the Taxis
airport, a coupon system is in Towers, the Royal Palace,
place to avoid scams. Chinatown, the Lake Gardens, Blue Cab
Taxis are plentiful on the and the National Museum, there Kuala Lumpur.
streets of Singapore. They have are walking tours, architectural Tel (03) 8948-2193.
a flag fare of S$3 for the first tours, and museum tours. Tour City Cab
kilometer, and 20 cents for every East, Kuala Lumpur Travel Tour, Singapore.
400 meters. There are, however, and Tours by Locals offer a Tel 6552-111.
provisions for surcharges. SBS variety of engaging tour
Transit, Comfort Cabs, Blue Cab, options. Food Tour Malaysia Comfort Cabs
Kuala Lumpur.
City Cab, and Smart are among devises mouthwatering daytime
Tel (03) 8024-0507.
the taxi service providers here. and evening excursions.
The apps MyTeksi and GrabTaxi In Singapore tours usually SBS Transit
are local alternatives to Uber. take in Orchard Road, Little Singapore.
India, and Chinatown, though Tel 6555-8888.
specialist tours are also available, Smart
Organized Tours covering themes such as World Singapore.
Taking an organized tour is the War II sights, Asian cuisine, and Tel 6485-7777.
ideal way of seeing a city’s Singapore’s throbbing nightlife.
major sights in relative comfort, For a more personalized tour, Organized Tours
and there are plenty of with a tailor-made itinerary, it is
Food Tour Malaysia
companies that offer such tours best to contact the Registered
∑ foodtourmalaysia.com
in both Kuala Lumpur and Tourist Guides Association of
Singapore. In Kuala Lumpur, Singapore. Holiday Tours, RMG Holiday Tours
apart from grand full-day tours Tours, and SH Tours also Singapore. Tel 6738-2622.
or 3-hour city highlight tours, organize packaged excursions Kuala Lumpur Travel Tour
which take in the Petronas of Singapore. Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (01) 7633-0062.
∑ kualalumpurtraveltour.com
Registered Tourist Guides
Association of Singapore
Singapore.
Tel 6339-2114.
RMG Tours
Singapore.
Tel 6220-1661.
Taxi, Kuala Lumpur
SH Tours
Singapore.
Tel 6734-9923.
Tour East
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel (04) 227-4522.
∑ toureast.net
Tours by Locals
∑ toursbylocals.com
Taxi, Singapore
340 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to main Architecture (cont.) Beekeeping 188
entries. Raffles Place (Singapore) 227 Belaga (Sarawak) 158, 171
Rumuh Penghulu Abu Seman Betel nuts 131
100 Cintra Street (Georgetown) 13, (Kuala Lumpur) 81 Bidayuh tribe 27, 167
110 secular 32–3 Bidwell, J. 241
Sultan Abdul Samad Building Bintulu (Sarawak) 172
(Kuala Lumpur) 47, 60, 66, 68 hotels 281
A see also Longhouses; Mansions; restaurants 296
Abdul Hamid Halim Shah, Sultan 44 Palaces; Shophouses Birch, J.W.W. 47, 100
Abdul Jalil, Sultan 102 Armenian Church (Singapore) 222–3 Bird (Botero) 227
Abdullah Ahmad Badawi 51 Arnold, Dr. Joseph 186 Birdlife 55, 97, 249, 316, 317
Abdullah, Rajah 82, 83 Art 11, 308 Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 14,
Aceh 42 Arts and crafts 36–7 242, 243, 245
Admission charges 321 Islamic 29 Langkawi Birds Paradise (Pulau
Ahmad, Sultan 152 see also Museums and galleries Langkawi) 119
Air travel 330, 331 Asian Civilisations Museum Loagan Bunut National Park
domestic 332–3 (Singapore) 12, 216 (Sarawak) 175
Alatas, Syed Mohammed 108 Aspinall, George 249 Taman Negara National Park 12, 60,
Alauddin Riyat Shah 42 Association of Southeast Asian 144–5
Albuquerque, Adm Alfonso de 42, 128 Nations (ASEAN) 50 Boat Quay (Singapore) 209, 211, 227
Alcohol 284–5 Astana (Kuching) 163 Boat travel 144, 335
Ali Iskander Shah, Sultan 232, 234 ATMs 326 Boatbuilding 149
Alliance Party 51 Aw brothers 248 Borneo 58, 60
Alor Star (Kedah) 117 Ayutthaya kingdom 40 history 43, 46, 48
hotels 279 Azlan Shah, Sultan 103 itinerary 11
restaurants 292 see also Sabah; Sarawak
Anglo-Dutch Treaty (1824) 43, 46 B Borneo Cultural Festival 58
Anglo-Siamese Treaty (1909) 47 Baba-Nyonya community 123, 128, Botero, Fernando 227
Ann Siang Hill (Singapore) 226 132–3 Brassware 37, 305
Anna Rais community 15 Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum Brewer, Frank 226
Annual events 56–9, 206–7 (Melaka) 131, 132–3 Britain see Great Britain
Aquariums Badan Warisan (Kuala Lumpur) 81 British East India Company (EIC) 43,
Aquaria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) Bajau tribe 27, 198, 199 44, 46, 106, 109, 204
12, 79 Bako National Park (Sarawak) 11, 15, British Residents 47
Underwater World (Langkawi) 157, 168–9 Bronze Age 39
13, 121 Bamboo 305 Brooke, Charles 46, 161, 162, 163, 170
Underwater World (Singapore) Bank notes 327 Brooke, Charles Vyner 48, 163
13, 250, 262 Banking 326–7 Brooke, James 46, 157, 163, 171
Arab merchants 40, 231, 234 Barisan Nasional (National Front) 51, 54 Brunei 11, 16, 60, 178–9
Arab Street (Singapore) 232, 233, Batang Rajang River 158, 170 history 43, 46–7, 49
234, 254 Batik 29, 36, 81, 254, 304 hotels 281
Arahant Upagutta 112 Craft Batik 114 restaurants 296
Archaeology 39 Bats 11, 22 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien
Lembah Bujang 93, 116 Batu Caves 4–5, 96 Mosque 61, 179
Lenggong Valley 101 festivals 35, 56 Buddha 112, 235
Niah Caves National Park 16, 39, itinerary 12 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple &
157, 174 Batu Ferringhi (Penang) 13, 114 Museum (Singapore) 13, 225
Sungai Jaong (Sarawak) 164 Batu Maung 115 Buddhism 30–31, 142, 154
Architecture 63 Bavanggazo (Sabah) 182, 189 festivals 57
8 Heeren Street (Melaka) 131 Beaches 10, 14 history 39, 40, 41
Badan Warisan (Kuala Lumpur) 81 Air Batang (Pulau Tioman) 137 see also Temples
Islamic 28–9 Bak Bak (Kudat) 189 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve (Kuala
Kampung Baru (Kuala Lumpur) 78 Batu Ferringhi (Penang) 114 Lumpur) 80–1
Kellie’s Castle 100 Cherating 143 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
Kuala Lumpur Railway Station 71 Damai (Sarawak) 164 (Singapore) 243, 244
Malaysian Tourism Information Desaru 125, 135 bumiputras 27, 51
Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 80 Palawan (Singapore) 251 Burma 44, 112
Menara KL Tower (Kuala Lumpur) Pantai Cenang (Langkawi) 13, 93, Burma-Thailand “Death” Railway 48
12, 64, 80 118, 120–21 Bus travel 331, 336, 337
Minangkabau 127 Pantai Dasar Sabak 154 cities 338, 339
Old Parliament House (Singapore) Pelangi (Pulau Langkawi) 94 Buskers’ Festival (Singapore) 258, 259
214, 217 Pulau Pangkor 100–101 Butterflies 12, 72, 99, 114
Palace of Justice (Putrajaya) 83 Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136, 137 Butterworth, W. L. 112
Parliament Complex (Singapore) Sabak (Kelantan) 139
210 Semporna (Sabah) 52–3, 198–9 C
Perdana Putra (Putrajaya) 83 Tanjung Tuan 126 Calendars 321
Petronas Towers (Kuala Lumpur) Teluk Bahang (Penang) 114 Calligraphy 29
12, 33, 51, 62, 63, 78 Teluk Chempedak 142 Cambodia 39
Raffles City (Singapore) 218 see also Islands Cameron, William 98
GENERAL INDEX 341
Cameron Highlands 60, 98–9 Chijmes (Singapore) 209, 218, 258, 259 Credit cards 326
hotels 279 Children 322 Cruises 335
restaurants 292 in hotels 277 Culture 26, 45, 55
Camping 277 in restaurants 285 Gelanggang Seni (Kota Bharu) 14,
Canopy Skywalk (Mulu NP) 16, 177 Chin Peng 49 153
Car rental 337 China 39, 40, 41, 45, 46, 47, 48 itinerary 10, 14
Carcosa Seri Negara (Kuala Lumpur) racism 50–51 Lamin Dana Cultural Boutique
73 Chinatown Complex (Singapore) 225 (Mukah) 172
Cat Museum (Kuching) 163 Chinatown Heritage Centre Malay Heritage Centre (Singapore)
Cat Statues (Kuching) 163 (Singapore) 224 232, 234
Cathedrals and churches Chinatowns Mari Mari Cultural Village (Sabah)
All Saint’s Church (Taiping) 101 Georgetown 13 17, 188
Armenian Church (Singapore) Kuala Lumpur 12, 63, 70 Sarawak Cultural Village 15, 165
222–3 Kuala Terengganu 147 Singapore 205
Cathedral of the Assumption Singapore 13, 209, 224–6, 254 see also Entertainment
(Georgetown) 110 Chinese New Year 34–5, 56, 59 Cuppage, William 240
Cathedral of the Good Shepherd Singapore 206 Currency 326–7
(Singapore) 219 Chinese people 26, 30–31, 54 Customs 320–21
Christ Church (Melaka) 123, 129 architecture 32 Cyberjaya 83
St. Andrew’s Cathedral (Singapore) clans 106–7
218 Haw Par Villa (Singapore) 248 D
St. George’s Church (Georgetown) Kapitan China 63, 69, 71 Dali, Salvador 227
109 see also Chinatowns Damai Beach (Sarawak) 164
St. Mary’s Cathedral (Kuala Chingay Parade (Singapore) 206 hotels 281
Lumpur) 66 Chitty community 123, 130 Dance 310
St. Paul’s Church (Melaka) 128 Chola kingdom 40 Islamic 29
Tamil Methodist Church (Melaka) Chor Soo Kong 115 Singapore 260, 261
130 Chow Kit Market (Kuala Lumpur) 63, Danum Valley (Sabah) 182, 198
Caves and grottoes 313, 317 77 Dayak people 157, 158
Batu Caves 4–5, 12, 35, 56, 96 Christ Church (Melaka) 123, 129 Deepavali festival 59, 207
Clearwater Cave 16, 176 Christmas 59, 207 Dent, Alfred 47
Deer Cave (Sarawak) 16 Chulias 108 Desaru Beach 125, 135
Fairy Cave (Sarawak) 167 Churches see Cathedrals and Dhammikarama Temple (Pulau Tikus)
Gomantong Caves (Sabah) 17, churches 112
197 Cinema 309, 311 Dhoby Ghaut (Singapore) 240
Gua Charas 142 Coliseum (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 Dialling codes 329
Kinta Valley 101 Singapore 260, 261 Disabled travelers 322, 323
Mulu National Park (Sarawak) Clarke, Sir Andrew 223 entertainment 258
176–7 Clarke Quay (Singapore) 211, 223, in hotels 277
Niah Caves National Park 16, 39, 252, 254 Domestic air travel 332
157, 174 Climate 58–9, 320 Dragon Boat Festival and Boat Race
Wind Cave (Sarawak) 167 Clothing 322 (Singapore) 206
Cell phones 328, 329 Clubs Dugongs 23
Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67, Royal Selangor (Kuala Lumpur) Dutch Era 42–3, 123, 128
69 66, 68
Central Peninsula 139–55 Singapore Cricket Club 215 E
Exploring the Central Peninsula Coastal plains 23 E & O Hotel (Georgetown) 13, 111
140–41 Cocoa 199 East Coast Park (Singapore) 243,
hotels 280–81 Coconuts 146 248–9
restaurants 295–6 Coins 45, 327 Easter 56, 59
Centrepoint, The (Singapore) 239, Coleman, G. D. 217, 222 Eastern Peninsula 139–55
240 Colonialism 93, 102, 123 Exploring the Eastern Peninsula
Ceramics 36, 304, 305 architecture 33 140–41
Chan See Shu Yuen Temple (Kuala history 42–3, 44–5, 46–8, 49 hotels 280–81
Lumpur) 63, 71 Colors of Malaysia festival 57 restaurants 295–6
Changi Museum (Singapore) 243, Communications 328–9 Economics 51, 54–5, 93, 181
249 Conrad, Joseph 220, 227 Singapore 204–5
Chap Goh Mei festival 56 Conversion chart 323 Electricity 321
Chaplin, Charlie 220, 241 Coral reefs 10, 23, 24–5, 200–201 Embassies 323
Cheng Hang 228 Courthouse Complex (Kuching) 161 Emerald Hill (Singapore) 240
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple (Melaka) Coward, Noel 111, 220 Emergency, the 49
130 Cowie, William 187 Emergency numbers 325
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion Crafts 10, 55, 29, 36–37 Endangered species 23, 55
(Georgetown) 13, 104–5, 111 Craft Batik (Penang) 114 Endau-Rompin National Park 140,
Cherating 143 Komplex Budaya Kraf (Kuala 143
hotels 280 Lumpur) 81 Entertainment 55, 205, 258–61,
restaurants 295 Komplex Budaya Kraf (Pulau 308–11
Chettiar Temple (Singapore) 223 Langkawi) 121 art exhibitions 308
Chihuly, Dale 219 Sarawak Craft Council 160 Chinese opera 260, 261
342 GENERAL INDEX
Endau-Rompin National Park (cont.) G Hesse, Hermann 111

cinema 260, 261, 309, 311 Galleries see Museums and galleries Hill stations
dance 260, 261, 310 Ganesh 235, 236 Cameron Highlands 60, 98–9
disabled access 258 Gardens see Parks and gardens Fraser’s Hill 97
free performances 259 Garnault of Siam, Bishop 110 Genting Highlands 96–7
information 258, 259 Gawai festival (Sarawak) 57 Penang Hill 13, 113
listings 308, 311 Gay and lesbian travelers 322, 323 Hinduism 30–31
music 260, 261, 309–10, 311 Gelanggang Seni (Kota Bharu) 14, festivals 35, 56, 59
nightlife 260–61, 311 153 history 39, 40, 41
open air shows 259 Gemas 155 see also Temples
pubs, bars, and karaoke 310, 311 Genting Highlands 96–7 History 39–51
theater 260, 261, 309, 311 Georgetown (Penang) 93, 106–11 ancient 39–40
theme parks 308, 311 100 Cintra Street 13, 110 colonialism 42–3, 44–5, 46–8
tickets 258, 259 Cathedral of the Assumption 110 Emergency, the 49
venues 258, 259 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 13, Konfrontasi 50
Environment 55 104–105, 111 Melaka 41, 49
Esplanade Park (Singapore) 216 E & O Hotel 13, 111 racism 50–51
Ethnic tensions 50–51 festivals 57 Holland see Dutch Era
Eu Tong Seng 80 Fort Cornwallis 13, 106 Homage to Newton (Dali) 227
Hainan Temple 110–11 Hornaday, William 96
F itinerary 10, 13 Hospitals 325
Fairy Cave (Sarawak) 167 Kapitan Keling Mosque 13, 28, Hotels 276–83
Fatt Tze, Cheong 111 107, 108 budget 276
Federal Territory Day (Kuala Lumpur) Khoo Kongsi Temple 13, 107 Carcosa Seri Negara (Kuala
56 Kuan Yin Temple 109 Lumpur) 73
Federated Malay States 47 Little India 13, 108–9 Central Peninsula 280–81
Festival of the Hungry Ghosts 58, 207 Masjid Melayu 107 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion
Festival of the Nine Emperor Gods Penang Museum and Art Gallery (Georgetown) 111
(Singapore) 207 110 E & O Hotel (Georgetown) 13, 111
Festivals 34–5, 56–9, 320 Pinang Peranakan Mansion 109 Eastern Peninsula 280–81
Rainforest World Music Festival Sri Mariamman Temple 108 Goodwood Park (Singapore) 241,
(Sarawak) 58, 165, 320 St. George’s Church 13, 109 283
Singapore 206–7, 258, 259 Syed Alatas Mansion 108 hidden costs 277
Fiddler crabs 23 Weld Quay Clan Piers 13, 106 homestays 276
Fiesta San Pedro (Melaka) 57 Girl on a Swing (Harpley) 246 international 276
Filipino Market (Kota Kinabalu) 185 Goh Chok Tong 51 Kuala Lumpur 278
Five Foot Ways 111 Golden Triangle (Kuala Lumpur) 12, longhouses 276–7
Flora and Fauna 191, 249; see also 63, 80 Majestic (Kuala Lumpur) 71, 278
Orchids; Rafflesia flower Gomantong Caves (Sabah) 17, 197 Mandarin Oriental (Kuala Lumpur)
Food 286–9 Gombizau (Sabah) 182, 188 80, 278
Lau Pa Sat (Singapore) 226 Gongs 188–9 mid-range 276
Malay-Chinese cuisine 288 Goodwood Park Hotel (Singapore) national parks 277
Malay cuisine 286–7 241 Northwest Peninsula 279
Malay-Indian cuisine 289 Great Britain 46, 63, 102, 123, 128 Raffles (Singapore) 33, 209,
shopping (Singapore) 257 history 43, 46–8, 49 220–21, 283
Singapore 205 Sabah 181 rates 277
street food 285 Singapore 234 ratings 276
Fort Canning Park (Singapore) 12, Straits Settlements 44–5 reservations 277
223 Gua Charas 142 resort 276
Fort Cornwallis (Georgetown) 13, Gua Masang 155 Sabah 282
106 Guangxu, Emperor 113 Sarawak 281–2
Fort Margherita (Kuching) 162–3 Gunung Gading National Park Singapore 282–3
Fortresses (Sarawak) 166–7 Smokehouse Hotel (Cameron
A’Famosa (Melaka) 128 Gunung Jerai 116 Highlands) 98, 279, 292
Fort Atlingsburg 97 Gunung Kinabalu (Sabah) 11, 181, Southern Peninsula 279–80
Fort Cornwallis (Georgetown) 182, 190, 192–3 special needs 277
13, 106 Hubbock, A.B. 68, 71
Fort Margherita (Kuching) 162–3 H Hussein Shah, Sultan 232, 234
Fort Siloso (Singapore) 13, 250 Hainan Temple (Georgetown) 110–
Fort Sylvia (Sarawak) 171 11 I
Kota Belanda (Pulau Pangkor) Hang Kasturi 130 Iban longhouses (Sarawak) 170, 173
100–101 Hanuman 237 itinerary 11, 15
Kota Kuala Kedah 117 Hari Raya Haji festival 56, 207 Rumah Bundong (Sarawak) 171
Porta de Santiago (Melaka) 128 Hari Raya Puasa festival 26, 35, 58, 59, Iban people 27, 36
Round Tower (Kuching) 160 207 Idris, Sultan 102, 103
Square Tower (Kuching) 162 Harpley, Sydney 246 Ikat 36, 305
Fraser, Louis James 97 Harrison, Tom 174 India 39, 40, 41, 48
Fraser’s Hill 97 Hassanal Bolkiah, Sultan of Brunei Indian people 26, 30, 54, 231; see also
hotels 279 178 Little India
FRIM (Forest Research Institute of Haw Par Villa (Singapore) 13, 243, 248 Indigenous peoples 27, 46, 48, 54
Malaysia) (Kuala Lumpur) 82 Haxworth, W.R.M. 249 Indonesia 41, 49, 50; see also Sumatra
Funan (Cambodia) 39 Health 324–5 Insurance 325
GENERAL INDEX 343
International Bird Race 97 Jalan India (Kuching) 161 Koran 29

Internet 328 Jalan Petaling Market (Kuala Lumpur) Kota Belud (Sabah) 182, 188
ION Orchard (Singapore) 238, 240, 70, 322 festivals 59
252, 255 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR) Kota Bharu 140, 150–1, 152–3
Ipoh 100 (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 hotels 280
hotels 279 Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren itinerary 10, 14
restaurants 292 Street) (Melaka) 131 restaurants 295
Iskandar Malaysia 134 Japan 153, 154, 186, 241 shops 307
Iskandar Shah, Sultan 103 history 41, 48, 49 Kota Kinabalu (Sabah) 181, 184–5
Islam 28–9, 123, 139 Java 40, 41 festivals 58
festivals 26, 35, 56, 57 Jerantut 155 Filipino Market 185
history 40, 41 Joaquim, Agnes 223 hotels 282
see also Mosques Johor 42, 47, 123, 124 itinerary 11, 17
Islamic Arts Museum (Kuala Lumpur) festivals 56 restaurants 298
6, 74–5 Johor Bahru 134–5 Sabah Museum 184
Islamic Heritage Museum (Kuching) dance 29 Sabah State Mosque 185
160 hotels 279 shops 307
Islamic Museum (Kota Bharu) 152–3 restaurants 294 Kuah (Pulau Langkawi) 120
Islands 23 shops 306–7 Kuala Kangsar 93, 102–3
Kusu (Singapore) 243, 248 Jungle Railway 155 Istana Hulu 103
Perhentian 60, 140, 141, 148 Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 13, 242, Istana Iskandariah 103
Pulau Duyung 14, 149 243, 245 Istana Kenangan 103
Pulau Gaya (Sabah) 185 Masjid Ubudiah 28–9, 102
Pulau Kapas 146 K Kuala Kedah 117
Pulau Ketam 83 Kadazan Dusun tribe 27 Kuala Krai 155
Pulau Kukup 134 Kai Zhang Shen Wang 228 Kuala Lipis 155
Pulau Labuan (Sabah) 186 Kali 235 Kuala Lumpur 51, 63–91
Pulau Langkawi 118–21, 279, Kampung Ayer (Brunei) 179 airport 330
292–3, 306, 307 Kampung Baru (Kuala Lumpur) 63, Badan Warisan 81
Pulau Lankayan (Sabah) 182, 78 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 80–1
197, 282 Kampung Jenang 146 bus station 331
Pulau Mamutik (Sabah) 185 Kampung Kling Mosque (Melaka) Carcosa Seri Negara 73
Pulau Manukan (Sabah) 185 130 Central Market 12, 67, 69
Pulau Pangkor 100–101 Kanowit 171 Chan See Shu Yuen Temple 63, 71
Pulau Redang 140, 148 Kapit (Sarawak) 158, 171 Chinatown 63, 70
Pulau Sapi (Sabah) 185 Kapitan China 63, 69, 71 Chow Kit Market 63, 77
Pulau Sipadan (Sabah) 61, 182, Kapitan Keling Mosque City Gallery 69
183, 194–5, 200–201 (Georgetown) 13, 28, 107, 108 Exploring Kuala Lumpur 64–5
Pulau Sulug (Sabah) 185 Kedah 39, 43, 44 festivals 56, 57, 59
Pulau Tenggol 140, 146 Alor Star 117 Flagpole 67
Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136–7 Kuala Kedah 117 FRIM 82
Pulau Ubin (Singapore) 243, 249 Keith, Agnes 17, 196 getting around 338–9
Sentosa (Singapore) 13, 209, 243, Kek Lok Si Temple (Penang) 10, 13, Golden Triangle 12, 63, 80
250–51 92, 95, 113 hotels 278
Seribuat Archipelago 123, 124, 135 Kelabit Highlands (Sarawak) 175 Islamic Arts Museum 6, 74–5
Ismail, Sultan 152 hotels 281 itinerary 12
Istana Balai Besar (Kota Bharu) 152 Kellie-Smith, William 100 Jalan Alor 12, 76
Istana Batu (Kota Bharu) 14, 152 Kellie’s Castle 100 Jalan Petaling Market 70, 322
Istana Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Keris (daggers) 37 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR)
Istana Iskandariah (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Khoo Kongsi Temple (Georgetown) 76–7
Istana Jahar (Kota Bharu) 14, 152 13, 107 Kampung Baru 63, 78
Istana Kenangan (Kuala Kangsar) 103 Kinabalu National Park (Sabah) 17, KLCC Park 12, 79
Istana Kesultanan Melaka (Melaka) 180, 182, 190–93 Komplex Budaya Kraf 81
129 hotels 282 Little India 63, 76
Itineraries 10–17 itinerary 11 MalaysianTourism Information
beaches 10, 14 restaurants 298 Complex 80
culture 10, 14 Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary Masjid India 76
Kuala Lumpur 12 (Sabah) 17, 197 Masjid Jamek 12, 67, 68
Kuching 11, 15 King’s Birthday 57, 59 Masjid Negara 72
Langkawi 10, 13 Kinta Valley 101 Menara KL Tower 12, 80
Melaka 12 Kipling, Rudyard 111, 220 Merdeka Square Street-by-Street
Northern Sarawak 11, 16 Kites 10, 14, 36, 304 66–7
Penang 10, 13 KL International Arts Festival (Kuala National Art Gallery 77
Sabah 11, 17 Lumpur) 57 National History Museum 67
Singapore 12–13 KL International Buskers Festival National Museum 12, 72
Taman Negara 12 (Kuala Lumpur) 59 National Music Museum 69
Klang 82–3 Pasar Minggu Market 78
J KLCC Park (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79 Perdana Botanical Gardens 63,
Jalan Alor (food street) (Kuala Lumur) Klias Wetlands (Sabah) 11, 17, 186 72–3
12, 76 Kompleks Budaya Kraf (Kuala Petronas Towers 12, 33, 51, 62,
Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) Lumpur) 81 63, 78
(Melaka) 130 Konfrontasi 50 Pitcher Plant Fountain 66
344 GENERAL INDEX
Kuala Lumpur (cont.) Lembah Bujang 116 Maps

Railway Station 71 Lenggong Valley 101 Bako National Park 168–9
restaurants 290–92 Leong San See Temple (Singapore) Borneo 20–21
Royal Selangor Club 66, 68 235 Brunei 178–9
shops 306, 307 Leopards 23 Cameron Highlands 98–9
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple 70 Light, Sir Francis 43, 45, 106, 109, Central Peninsula 140–41
Streetfinder maps 84–91 110 Colonial Core and Chinatown
Sultan Abdul Samad Building 60, Lim Bo Seng Memorial (Singapore) (Singapore) 213
66, 68 215, 216 Eastern Peninsula 140–41
Sze Ya Temple 69 Limestone 22 Exploring Kuala Lumpur 64–5
Thean Hou Temple 65, 73 Lister, Martin 126 Georgetown (Penang) 106–7
Titiwangsa Lake Gardens 78 Little India (Georgetown) 13, Jungle Railway 155
Kuala Pilah 126 108–9 Kampong Glam Street-by-Street
Kuala Selangor 97 Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 76 (Singapore) 232–3
Kuala Terengganu 10, 139, 140, 147 Little India (Singapore) 13, 209, 231– Kota Bharu 153
hotels 280 41, 235 Kuala Lumpur Streetfinder 84–91
itinerary 14 Loagan Bunut National Park Kuching 161
restaurants 295 (Sarawak) 175 Little India and Orchard Road
shops 307 Longhouses 32, 189 (Singapore) 231
Kuan Yin 109, 130, 142, 228 hotels 276–7 Malaysia at a Glance 60–61
Kuan Yin Temple (Georgetown) 109 Iban 170, 171, 173 Malaysian Borneo 20–21
Kuantan (Pahang) 54, 140, 142 Lord Jim (Conrad) 227 Melaka 129
hotels 280 Lord Krishna 207 Merdeka Square Street-by-Street
restaurants 295 Lord Murugan 96, 108, 130, 223, 235 (Kuala Lumpur) 66–7
Kubah National Park (Sarawak) 165 Lost property 324 Mulu National Park 176–7
Kuching (Sarawak) 61, 157, 160–63 Low, Sir Hugh 102, 193 Northwest Peninsula 94–5
Astana 163 Low’s Peak (Kinabalu) 193 Orchard Road Street-by-Street
Cat Museum 163 Lunar calendar 321 (Singapore) 238–9
Cat Statues 163 Padang Street-by-Street
Courthouse Complex 161 M (Singapore) 214–15
festivals 58 Ma Zhu Po 228 Peninsular Malaysia 18–19
Fort Margherita 162–3 Magellan, Ferdinand 189 Pulau Langkawi 118–19
hotels 281 Mahathir Mohamad 50, 51 Pulau Tioman 136–7
Islamic Heritage Museum 160 Mahmud Shah 42 Sabah 182–3
itineraries 11, 15 Mahsuri, Princess 118, 119, 120 Sarawak 158–9
Jalan India 161 Majapahit empire 40 Sentosa (Singapore) 250–51
restaurants 296–7 Malacca 93; see also Melaka Singapore Botanic Gardens 246–7
Round Tower 160 Malay Heritage Centre (Singapore) Singapore Farther Afield 243
Sarawak Museum 160 232, 234 Singapore River 210–11
shops 307 Malay people 26, 48, 49, 54 Singapore Street Finder 264–73
Textile Museum 160 architecture 32 Southern Peninsula 124–5
Tua Pek Kong 162 Singapore 231 Taman Negara National Park 144–5
Tun Jugah Gallery 160 Malay Ringgit 327 Mar Chor 110–11
Waterfront 162 Malayan Communist Party (MCP) 48, Mari Mari Cultural Village (Sabah) 11,
Kudat (Sabah) 189 49 17, 188
Kukup 134 Malayan Races Liberation Army Marina Bay Sands (Singapore) 217
restaurants 294 (MRLA) 49 Marine life 24–5
Kusu Island (Singapore) 243, 248 Malayan Union 49 Maritime Museum (Melaka) 131
Malaysia Day 58–9 Markets 10, 11
Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival 58 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 185
L Malaysian Army 50 Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 12,
Labi (Brunei) 178 Malaysian Grand Prix (Selangor) 56 67, 69
Labor Day 59 Malaysian Open Golf Championship Chinatown Complex (Singapore)
Labuan, Treaty of (1847) 46 56 225
Labuan International Sea Challenge MalaysianTourism Information Chow Kit (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 77
57 Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 80 Filipino (Kota Kinabalu) 185
Lakes Mangroves 23, 159 Jalan Alor (Kuala Lumpur) 76
Tasek Merimbun (Brunei) 178 Klias Wetlands (Sabah) 11,17, 186 Jalan Petaling (Kuala Lumpur)
Tasik Chini 142 Pulau Kukup 134 70, 322
Tasik Dayang Bunting 118, 121 Mansions and houses Jonker Walk Night Market (Melaka)
Tasik Kenyir 146 100 Cintra Street (Georgetown) 130
Laksa 287 13, 110 Pantai Cenang (Pulau Langkawi)
Lakshmi 207 Agnes Keith’s House (Sabah) 17, 121
Lambir Hills National Park (Sarawak) 196 Pasar Besar (Kota Bharu) 14,
61, 175 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 150–151, 152
Landscape 22–3 (Georgetown) 13, 104–5, 111 Pasar Minggu (Kuala Lumpur) 78
Langkawi see Pulau Langkawi Gedung Kuning (Singapore) 232 Pasar Payang (Kuala Terengganu)
Language 50, 205, 323 Pinang Peranakan Mansion 14, 147
Lao Tzu 130 (Georgetown) 109 Tamu Besar (Kota Belud) 188
Lau Pa Sat (Singapore) 226, 299 Seri Melaka (Melaka) 128 Masjid India (Kuala Lumpur) 76
Lee Hsien Loong 51 Syed Alatas Mansion (Georgetown) Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67,
Lee Kuan Yew 49, 51, 204 108 68
GENERAL INDEX 345
Masjid Melayu (Georgetown) 107 Masjid Bandaraya (Kuching) 161 Museums and galleries (cont.)
Masjid Negara (Kuala Lumpur) 72 Masjid Di Raja Sultan Suleiman Darul Ridzuan Museum (Ipoh) 100
Masjid Sultan (Singapore) 13, 232, (Klang) 83 Democratic Government Museum
234 Masjid al-Hana (Pulau Langkawi) 119, (Melaka) 128
Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah 120 Forestry Museum (Gunung Jerai)
(Kuala Terengganu) 147 Masjid India (Kuala Lumpur) 76 116
Masjid Ubudiah (Kuala Kangsar) Masjid Jamek (Brunei) 158 Fuk Tak Chi Museum (Singapore)
28–9, 102 Masjid Jamek (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 67, 226
Masks 304 68 Galeri Petronas (Kuala Lumpur) 79
Matang Wildlife Center (Sarawak) Masjid Melayu (Georgetown) 107 Galeri Shah Alam (Shah Alam) 82
165 Masjid Negara (Kuala Lumpur) 72 Galeri Sultan Azlan Shah (Kuala
Maugham, Somerset 77, 111, 220 Masjid Negeri (Kuantan) 54, 142 Kangsar) 103
Maxwell, John Argyle 214, 217 Masjid Sultan (Singapore) 13, 232, Gedung Raja Abdullah (Klang) 83
Media 328–9 234 Islamic Arts Museum (Kuala
Medical treatment 325 Masjid Tengku Tengah Zaharah Lumpur) 6, 74–5
Melaka 123, 124, 128–33 (Kuala Terengganu) 147 Islamic Heritage Museum
Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum Masjid Ubudiah (Kuala Kangsar) (Kuching) 160
131, 132–3 28–9, 102 Islamic Museum (Kota Bharu)
Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 130 Masjid Zahir (Alor Star) 117 152–3
Christ Church 123, 129 Masjid Zainal Abidin (Kuala Kuala Lumpur City Gallery 69
history 40, 41, 42–3, 44 Terengganu) 147 Lembah Bujang Archaeological
hotels 279–80 Muhammadi (Kota Bharu) 152 Museum 116
Istana Kesultanan Melaka 129 Putra (Putrajaya) 83 Lenggong Archaeological
itinerary 12 Sabah State Mosque (Kota Museum 101
Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) Kinabalu) 185 Malaqa House (Melaka) 131
130 State Mosque (Kuching) 161 Maritime Museum (Melaka) 131
Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren Sultan Abu Bakar (Johor Bahru) Museum of History and
Street) 131 28, 135 Ethnography (Melaka) 128
Kampung Kling Mosque 130 Sultan Ibrahim (Muar) 134 Museum JAKOA 96
Maritime Museum 131 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien (Brunei) Museum of Literature (Melaka) 128
Porta de Santiago 128 61, 179 Museum of Royal Traditions and
restaurants 294–5 Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah Custom (Kota Bharu) 152
St. Paul’s Hill 128 (Shal Alam) 82 Museum Sultan Azian Shah (Shah
shops 306, 307 Al Taqwa (Miri) 174 Alam) 82
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Motorbike rental 337 Muzium Di Melaka (Melaka) 129
Temple 130 Mount Kinabalu Climbathon 59 National Art Gallery (Kuala
Stadthuys 42, 128, 318–19 Mountains Lumpur) 77
Melanau people 172 Gunung Gading 166–7 National Gallery (Singapore) 12,
Menara KL tower (Kuala Lumpur) 12, Gunung Jerai 116 214, 217
80 Gunung Kinabalu (Sabah) 11, 181, National History Museum (Kuala
Merdeka Eve 58 182, 190, 192–3 Lumpur) 67
Merdeka Square (Kuala Lumpur) 12, Gunung Murud (Sarawak) 175 National Museum of Singapore
66–7 Gunung Raya 119 222, 256, 257
Mersing 135 Gunung Santubong (Sarawak) 164 National Museum (Kuala Lumpur)
restaurants 295 Gunung Tahan 144 12, 72
Metalwork 37 Titiwangsa range 96, 97, 116, 139 National Music Museum (Kuala
Metros 338 Muar 134 Lumpur) 69
Mid-Autumn Festival (Singapore) 207 Muda Hashim 46 Penang Museum and Art Gallery
Minangkabau people 60, 123, 126 Muhammad II, Sultan 152 (Georgetown) 110
architecture 33, 127 Muhammadi Mosque (Kota Bharu) Perak Museum (Taiping) 101
Miri (Sarawak) 11, 16, 174 152 Perak Royal Museum (Kuala
festivals 57 Mukah (Sarawak) 57, 172 Kangsar) 103
hotels 281 Mulu National Park (Sarawak) 61, 156, Peranakan Museum (Singapore)
restaurants 297 157, 158, 176–7 12, 222
Miri International Jazz Festival 57 hotels 282 Petroleum Museum (Miri) 16, 174
Mohudeen, Caudeer 108 itineraries 11, 16 Petrosains (Kuala Lumpur) 79
Money matters 326–7 restaurants 297 Pinacotheque de Paris Museum
Monkeys 146, 169 Museums and galleries (Singapore) 223
proboscis 11, 22, 186 Asian Civilisations Museum Royal Sultan Abu Bakar Musuem
Mooncake Festival 59 (Singapore) 12, 216 (Johor Bahru) 134–5
Moses, Claude Lee 46–7 Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum Sabah Museum (Kota Kinabalu)
Mosques (Melaka) 131, 132–3 184
Al Abrar (Singapore) 226 Battle Box Museum (Singapore) 223 Sarawak Museum (Kuching) 15,
An-Nur Jamek (Pulau Labuan) 186 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & 160
architecture 28–9 Museum (Singapore) 13, 225 Science Centre Singapore 243, 245
Haijah Fatimah (Singapore) 233 Cat Museum (Kuching) 163 Sibu Civic Center Heritage
Kampung Kling (Melaka) 130 Changi Museum (Singapore) Museum (Sarawak) 170–1
Kapitan Keling (Georgetown) 13, 243, 249 Singapore Art Museum 218–19
28, 107, 108 Chinatown Heritage Centre Singapore Discovery Center 244–5
Masjid Abdullah (Pekan) 143 (Singapore) 224 State Museum (Alor Star) 117
Masjid Abu Bakar (Pekan) 143 Chinese History Museum State Museum (Seremban) 126,
Masjid Assyakirin (Bintulu) 172 (Kuching) 15, 162 127
346 GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Nature reserves (cont.) P

Sultan Abu Bakar Museum (Pekan) Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Reserve Padang (Singapore) 12, 214–15
143 (Sabah) 186 Padas River (Sabah) 17, 181, 182, 187
Terengganu State Museum Tasik Chini 140, 142 Pahang 47, 54, 139, 140
Complex (Kuala Terengganu) Negeri Sembilan 33, 47, 60, 123 Palaces
14, 147 Neolithic Age 39 Astana (Kuching) 163
Textile Museum (Kuching) 15, 160 New Economic Policy (NEP) 51 Gedung Kuning (Singapore) 232
Tham Siew Inn Artist Gallery New Year’s Day 59 Istana Abu Bakar (Pekan) 143
(Melaka) 131 New Year’s Eve 34 Istana Alam Shah (Klang) 83
Tun Jugah Gallery (Kuching) 160 Newspapers and magazines 329 Istana Balai Besar (Kota Bharu) 152
World War II Memorial Museum Ngee Ann City (Singapore) 238, Istana Batu (Kota Bharu) 14, 152
(Kota Bharu) 14, 153 240–1, 252, 255 Istana Hulu (Kuala Kangsar) 103
Music 309–10, 311 Niah Caves National Park (Sarawak) Istana Iskandariah (Kuala Kangsar)
Rainforest World Music Festival 16, 39, 157, 158, 174 103
(Sarawak) 165 Nightlife 260–1, 310–11 Istana Jahar (Kota Bharu) 14, 152
Singapore 260, 261 North Borneo Company 47, 187, 199 Istana Kenangan (Kuala Kangsar)
Muslims see Islam North Borneo Railway 187 103
Muzaffar Shah 42 Northwest Peninsula 93–121 Istana Kesultanan Melaka (Melaka)
Exploring Northwest Peninsula 129
N 94–5 Istana Lama (Sri Menanti) 124, 126,
Najib Abdul Razak, Mohammad 51 hotels 279 127
Najib Razak, Datuk Seri Mohammed restaurants 292–3 Istana Maziah (Kuala Terengganu)
54 147
Napoleonic Wars 43 O Istana Nur-ul-Iman (Brunei) 179
Narakasura 207 Oil 51, 174, 178 Palm oil 51, 181, 199
Narcotics 324 Old Parliament House (Singapore) Pangkor
National Art Gallery (Kuala Lumpur) 214, 217 hotels 279
77, 308 One Village, One Product scheme restaurants 293
National Day 58, 59 188 Pangkor, Treaty of (1874) 46, 47
Singapore 206–7 Opening hours 321 Panoramic Sketch of Prince of Wales
National Gallery (Singapore) 12, 214, shops (Malaysia) 302–303 Island (Daniell) 38
217 shops (Singapore) 252 Pantai Cenang (Langkawi) 13, 93,
National Language Act (1967) 50 Orang Asli people 27, 93, 96, 138, 118, 120–21
National Museum (Kuala Lumpur) 7, 139 Pantai Dasar Sabak 154
12, 72 Kampung Gumum 142 Parameswara, Prince of Palembang
National Museum of Singapore 222, Orang Syam people 93, 117, 139, 41, 128
256, 257 154 Parks and gardens
National Music Museum (Kuala Orang Ulu tribe 27, 157 Botanic Garden (Putrajaya) 83
Lumpur) 69 Orangutans 11, 22, 157, 167, 196 East Coast Park (Singapore) 243,
National parks 11, 55 Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation 248–9
accommodation 277 Center (Sabah) 17, 321 Esplanade Park (Singapore) 216
Bako (Sarawak) 15, 157, 168–9 Orchard Road (Singapore) 209, 231– Fort Canning Park (Singapore)
bookings and permits 312, 317 41 12, 223
Endau-Rompin 140, 143 itinerary 13 Gardens by the Bay (Singapore)
Gunung Gading (Sarawak) 166–7 Street-by-Street 238–9 13, 208, 209, 217
Kinabalu (Sabah) 17, 180, 182, Orchids 246, 256, 257 Jurong Bird Park (Singapore) 13,
190–93 Organized tours 331 242, 243, 245
Kubah (Sarawak) 165 cities 339 Kinabalu Botanical Garden (Sabah)
Kuching Wetlands (Sarawak) 164 Orlina, Ramon 219 190
Lambir Hills (Sarawak) 61, 175 Outdoor activities 262–3, 312–17 KLCC Park (Kuala Lumpur) 79
Loagan Bunut (Sarawak) 175 adventure sports 262–3 Lake Gardens (Seremban) 126
Mulu (Sarawak) 61, 156, 157, 158, bird-watching 316, 317 Lake Gardens (Taiping) 101
176–7 bookings and permits 312, 317 Langkawi Birds Paradise (Pulau
Niah Caves 16, 39, 157, 158, 174 caving 313, 317 Langkawi) 119
Penang 13, 115 cycling 263 Peace Park (Pulau Labuan) 186
Pulau Kukup 134 golf 97, 262, 263, 316, 317 Penang Botanic Gardens 112–13
Similajau (Sarawak) 172 guided tours 312, 317 Perdana Botanical Gardens (Kuala
Taman Negara 60, 139, 140, 144–5 hiking 145, 190, 192–3 Lumpur) 63, 72–3
Tanjung Datu (Sarawak) 166 horseback riding 97 Rose Garden (Cameron Highlands)
Tunku Abdul Rahman (Sabah) 185 Langkawi Rain Forest Canopy 99
Turtle Island (Sabah) 61, 196–7 Adventure (Pulau Langkawi) Sandakan Memorial Park (Sabah)
Ulu Temburong (Brunei) 179 120 196
see also Parks and gardens river cruises 315, 317 Singapore Botanic Gardens 13, 47,
Nature reserves Silau Silau Trail (Kinabalu NP) 209, 243, 246–7
Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve (Kuala 190 Sungai Teroi Forest Recreation Park
Lumpur) 80–1 Tekek-Juara Hiking Trail (Pulau (Gunung Jerai) 116
Bukit Timah (Singapore) 243, 244 Tioman) 137 Taman Tumbina (Bintulu) 172
Danum Valley (Sabah) 182, 198 tennis 263 Tawau Hills State Park (Sabah) 199
FRIM (Kuala Lumpur) 82 trekking 312–13, 317 Titiwangsa Lake Gardens (Kuala
Kuala Selangor Nature Park 97 wildlife viewing 263, 316, 317 Lumpur) 78
Putrajaya Wetlands 83 see also Water sports Tropical Spice Garden (Penang)
Semenggoh 15, 157, 167 Overbeck, Baron Gustav von 47 114
GENERAL INDEX 347
Pasar Minggu Market (Kuala Lumpur) Ports, harbors and quays (cont.) Raffles Place (Singapore) 227
78 Clarke Quay (Singapore) 211, 223, Rafflesia flower 166, 181, 186
Passports 320, 323 252, 254 Rain forests 22, 55
Pei, I.M. 218 Kuching Waterfront 162 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve
Pekan 143 Kudat (Sabah) 189 (Singapore) 243, 244
Pelli, Cesar 78 Port Dickson 126 Mulu National Park 176–7
Penan tribe 27 Port Klang 83 Rainfall 58, 98, 320
Penang 43, 44, 45 Weld Quay Clan Piers Rainforest World Music Festival
Batu Ferringhi 114 (Georgetown) 13, 106 (Sarawak) 58, 165, 320
Botanic Gardens 112–13 Portugal 42, 43, 123, 128 rajahs 39, 40, 46; see also White
Dhammikarama Temple 112 Postal services 328–9 Rajahs
festivals 57, 59 Precautions 324–5 Rama V, King 217
hotels 279 Prehistoric Age 39 Rama VI, King 113
itinerary 10, 13 Prophet Muhammad’s Birthday 57, 59 Ramadan 58
Kapitan Keling Mosque 28 Public holidays 59 Religion 27, 40, 55
Kek Lok Si Temple 113 Singapore 207 festivals 34
Penang Hill 13, 113 Pulau Dayang Bunting (Pulau Singapore 205
restaurants 293 Langkawi) 13, 121 see also Buddhism; Christianity;
shops 306, 307 Pulau Duyung 14, 149 Hinduism; Islam
Snake Temple 115 Pulau Kapas 146 Resende, Pedro Baretti de 41
Teluk Bahang 114 hotels 281 Restaurants 284–5, 290–301
Wat Chayamangkalaram 112 restaurants 296 Central Peninsula 295–6
see also Georgetown Pulau Ketam 83 Eastern Peninsula 295–6
Penang Botanic Gardens 112–13 Pulau Labuan (Sabah) 186 etiquette 284
Penang Chingay 59 Pulau Langkawi 118–21 Kuala Lumpur 290–92
Penang International Dragon Boat hotels 279 menus 284
Festival 57 itinerary 10, 13 Northwest Peninsula 292–3
Penang Museum and Art Gallery Kuah 120 payment and tipping 285
(Georgetown) 110 Langkawi Birds Paradise 119 reservations 284
Penang National Park 13, 115 Langkawi Rain Forest Canopy Sabah 298–9
Penang World Music Festival Adventure 120 Sarawak 296–8
(Georgetown) 57 Pantai Cenang 118, 120–21 Singapore 299–301
Peninsular Malaysia 39, 40, 48, 60 Pulau Dayang Bunting 121 smoking 285
Peoples 26–7 Pulau Payar Marine Park 121 Southern Peninsula 294–5
Singapore 205 restaurants 292–3 street food 285
People’s Action Party 204 shops 306, 307 types 284
Perak 42, 47, 93; see also Kuala Telaga Tujuh Falls 119, 121 vegetarians 285
Kangsar Teluk Datai 121 wine and drink 284–5
Peranakan Museum (Singapore) 12, Tomb of Mahsuri 119, 120 see also Food
14, 222 Pulau Lankayan (Sabah) 182, 197 Ri Gong Tai Zi 228
Peranakan people 26, 32, 45 hotels 282 River cruises 315, 317
Peranakan Place (Singapore) 239, Pulau Pangkor 100–101 River dolphins 11, 15, 154, 315
240 Pulau Payar Marine Park (Pulau Road travel 336–7
Perdana Botanical Gardens (Kuala Langkawi) 121 Round Tower (Kuching) 160
Lumpur) 63, 72–3 Pulau Redang 140, 148 Royal Selangor Club (Kuala Lumpur)
Perhentian Islands 14, 60, 140, 141, hotels 281 66, 68
148 Pulau Sipadan (Sabah) 61, 182, 183, Rubber 48, 51, 102
hotels 280 194–5, 200–201 Rules of the road 337
itinerary 10 Pulau Tenggol 140, 146 Rungu tribe 27, 188, 189
restaurants 295–6 hotels 281
Pesta Kaul festival (Mukah) 57, 172 Pulau Tioman 122, 123, 136–7 S
Petronas Towers (Kuala Lumpur) 12, hotels 280 Sabah 60, 181–201
51, 62, 63, 78 restaurants 295 architecture 32
architecture 33 Pulau Ubin (Singapore) 243, 249 Exploring Sabah 182–3
festivals 34 Putrajaya 56, 63, 83 festivals 57
Pharmacies 325 history 43, 46–7, 48, 49, 50
Philippines, the 49, 50 Q hotels 282
Photography 322–3 Qing Ming Festival (Singapore) 206 indigenous peoples 27
Pillai, Narain 224 Qu Yuan 206 map 20–21
Pillai, P. Govindasamy 236 Quaritch-Wales, H. G. 116 restaurants 298–9
Pinang Peranakan Mansion week in 11, 17
(Georgetown) 109 R Sabah Fest 57
Police 324 Radio 329 Sabah International Folklore Festival
Politics 50–51, 54, 204 Raffles, Sir Stamford 111, 123, 128, (Kota Kinabalu) 58
Ponggal festival 56, 206 204, 216 Sabah Museum (Kota Kinabalu) 184
Population 54 Chinatown 224 Sabah State Mosque (Kota Kinabalu)
Poring Hot Springs (Sabah) 11, 17, history 43, 44 185
191 Raffles City (Singapore) 218 St. Andrew’s Cathedral (Singapore)
Porta de Santiago (Melaka) 128 Raffles Hotel (Singapore) 33, 209, 218
Ports, harbors and quays 220–21, 283 St. George’s Church (Georgetown)
Boat Quay (Singapore) 209, 211, Raffles’ Landing Site (Singapore) 210, 13, 109
227 216 St. John, Spenser 193
348 GENERAL INDEX
St. Paul’s Hill (Melaka) 128 Shopping (cont.) Singapore (cont.)

Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya (Singapore) cameras and watches 256, 257 Colonial Core and Chinatown 12,
235 clothes and fabrics 254, 255 213–29
Salleh, Mat 47 computers 256, 257 Cricket Club 215
Sandakan (Sabah) 17, 181, 196 consumer claims 253, 255 culture 205
itinerary 11 department stores 252, 255 Dhoby Ghaut 240
restaurants 298–9 electronic goods 256, 257 Discovery Center 244–5
Santry, Denis 234 food 257 East Coast Park 243, 248–9
Santubong 15, 164 goods returns policies 253 economy 204–5
Sarawak 60, 157–79 Great Singapore Sale 206 Emerald Hill 240
architecture 32 how to pay 252–3 entertainment 258–61
Exploring Sarawak 158–9 jewelry 254, 255 Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay
festivals 57, 58 malls 252, 255 33, 216, 258, 259
history 43, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50 memorabilia 256, 257 Esplanade Park 216
hotels 281–2 opening hours 252 Farther Afield 243–51
indigenous peoples 27 permits and laws 253 festivals 206–7, 258, 259
map 20–21 refunds 253, 255 Flyer 209, 218
national parks 11, 16 sales 253 food 205
restaurants 296–8 shoes and bags 254, 255 Fort Canning Park 12, 223
see also Kuching Tangs 241, 252, 255 Gardens by the Bay 13, 208, 209,
Sarawak Cultural Village 15, 165 taxes 253, 255 217
Sarawak Museum (Kuching) 15, 160 where to shop 254–7 getting around 338–9
Sarawak Regatta 58 see also Markets; Shopping malls At a Glance 209
Sarkies brothers 111 Shopping malls 302 Goodwood Park Hotel 241
Science Centre Singapore 243, 245 Bussorah Mall (Singapore) 233 government 204
Sea travel 331 Centrepoint, The (Singapore) 239, Haijah Fatimah Mosque 233
Security 324–5 240 Haw Par Villa 13, 243, 248
Selangor 47, 93 Chijmes (Singapore) 218, 258, 259 history 43, 45, 49
Sematan (Sarawak) 166 ION Orchard (Singapore) 238, 240, hotels 282–3
Semenggoh Nature Reserve 15, 157, 252, 255 independence 50, 51
167 Ngee Ann City (Singapore) 238, ION Orchard 238, 240, 252, 255
Semporna (Sabah) 52–3, 198–9 240–241, 252, 255 Jurong Bird Park 13, 242, 243, 245
restaurants 299 Park Mall (Singapore) 239, 252, 255 Kampong Glam Street-by-Street
Sentosa (Singapore) 13, 209, 243, Peranakan Place (Singapore) 239, 232–3
250–51 240 Kusu Island 243, 248
Sepilok (Sabah) Plaza Singapura (Singapore) 239 languages 205
hotels 282 Raffles City (Singapore) 218 Lau Pa Sat 226
itinerary 11 Suria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79 Leong San See Temple 235
Orangutan Rehabilitation Center Tanglin Mall (Singapore) 238, 241, Lim Bo Seng Memorial 215
17, 196, 321 254, 255 Little India and Orchard Road
Sequeira, Adm Lopez de 42 Siam see Thailand 231–41
Serangoon Road (Singapore) 235, Sibu (Sarawak) 158, 170–171 Malay Heritage Centre 232, 234
254 festivals 58 Marina Bay Sands 217
Seremban 60, 124, 126 hotels 282 Masjid Sultan 13, 232, 234
hotels 280 restaurants 297–8 Merlion 210, 227
restaurants 295 Silk 36, 305 Nagore Durgha 226
Seribuat Archipelago 123, 124, 135 Silverware 37, 304 National Gallery 12, 214, 217
hotels 280 Similajau National Park (Sarawak) 172 National Museum of Singapore
Shadow puppetry 10, 55, 304 Singapore 123, 204–73 222, 256, 257
Shah Alam (Kuala Lumpur) 82 airport 330 Ngee Ann City 238, 240–241,
Shaivism 30 Alsagoff Arab School 232 252, 255
Shophouses 32, 111, 224, 225, 226 Ann Siang Hill 226 Old Parliament House 214, 217
Shopping (Malaysia) 302–307 Arab Street 232, 233, 234, 254 Orchard Road Street-by-Street
antiques 305 Armenian Church 222–3 238–9
bargaining 303 Art Museum 218–19 outdoor activities 262–3
Chinese products 305 Asian Civilisations Museum 12, 216 Padang Street-by-Street 214–15
department stores 302 Boat Quay 209, 211, 227 Park Mall 239, 252, 255
guarantees 303 Botanic Gardens 13, 47, 209, 243, Parliament Complex 210
imitation goods 303 246–7 peoples 205
Indian products 305 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Peranakan Museum 12, 14, 222
Malay products 304 Museum 13, 225 Peranakan Place 239, 240
Malaysian Borneo products 305 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 243, politics 204
markets and stalls 302 244 Pulau Ubin 243, 249
opening hours 302–303 Cathedral of the Good Shepherd Raffles City 218
payment 303 219 Raffles Hotel 33, 209, 220–21, 283
photography 303 Centrepoint, The 239, 240 Raffles’ Landing Site 210, 216
regional shops 306–7 Changi Museum 243, 249 Raffles Place 227
sales tax 303 Chettiar Temple 223 religion 205
see also Markets; Shopping malls Chijmes 218, 258, 259 restaurants 299–301
Shopping (Singapore) 252–7 Chinatown Complex 225 St. Andrew’s Cathedral 218
antiques and crafts 254, 255 Chinatown Heritage Centre 224 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya 235
books and music 256, 257 Clarke Quay 211, 223, 252, 254 Science Centre Singapore 243, 245
GENERAL INDEX 349
Singapore (cont.) Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple Taman Negara National Park 60, 139,
Sentosa 13, 209, 243, 250–51 (Singapore) 223, 236–7 140, 144–5
Serangoon Road 235, 254 Sri Veerakaliamman Temple hotels 281
shopping 252–7 (Singapore) 13, 230, 235 itinerary 12
Singapore River 210–11 Srivijaya 40, 93 restaurants 296
Sri Mariamman Temple 205, 224 Stadthuys (Melaka) 42, 128, 318–19 Tambunan Rafflesia Forest Reserve
Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple 223, Stolen property 324 (Sabah) 186
236–7 Stone Age 39 Tamils 48
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 13, Strait of Malacca 123, 124 Tamu Besar festival (Kota Belud) 59
230, 235 history 39, 40, 41 Tan Keng Yam Tony 51
Street Finder 264–73 Straits Chinese see Peranakan people Tan Tock Seng 228
Tanglin Mall 238, 241, 254, 255 Straits Settlements 43, 44–5, 47 Tanglin Mall (Singapore) 238, 241,
Tangs 241, 252, 255 Streets, squares and roads 254, 255
Tanjon Pagar Conservation Area Ann Siang Hill (Singapore) 226 Tangs (Singapore) 241, 252, 255
225 Arab Street (Singapore) 232, 233, Tanjong Pagar Conservation Area
Telok Ayer Street 226 234, 254 (Singapore) 225
Temple Street 224–5 Dhoby Ghaut (Singapore) 240 Tanjung Datu National Park (Sarawak)
Thian Hock Keng Temple 13, 212, Emerald Hill (Singapore) 240 166
226, 228–9 Golden Triangle (Kuala Lumpur) Taoism 69
three days in 12–13 12, 63, 80 Tapirs 22
Time Capsule 214 Jalan Alor (food street) (Kuala Tasik Chini 140, 142
Victoria Theater and Concert Hall Lumpur) 12, 76 Tasik Dayang Bunting (Pulau
214, 216, 258, 259 Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonkers Street) Langkawi) 118, 121
Wheelock Place (Singapore) 238 (Melaka) 130 Tasik Kenyir 146
World War II 48 Jalan India (Kuching) 161 Tawau (Sabah) 199
Zoo 243, 244 Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman (TAR) Tawau Hills State Park (Sabah) 199
Singapore Arts Festival 258, 259 (Kuala Lumpur) 76–7 Taxes
Singapore Botanic Gardens 13, 47, Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock (Heeren in hotels 277
209, 243, 246–7 Street) (Melaka) 131 in shops 253, 255, 303
Singapore Discovery Center 244–5 Little India (Georgetown) 13, Taxis 336, 339
Singapore Dollar 327 108–9 Tea 51, 99
Singapore Flyer 209, 218 Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 63, 76 Telaga Tujuh Falls (Pulau Langkawi)
Singapore Food Festival 206 Little India (Singapore) 13, 209, 118, 121
Singapore Grand Prix 207 231–41, 235 Telephones 328, 329
Singapore International Festival of Merdeka Square (Kuala Lumpur) Television 329
the Arts 206 12, 66–7 Telok Ayer Street (Singapore) 226
Singapore International Film Festival Orchard Road (Singapore) 13, Teluk Bahang (Penang) 13, 114
258, 259 209, 238–9 itinerary 10
Singapore Zoo 13, 243, 244 Padang (Singapore) 12, 214–15 Teluk Datai (Pulau Langkawi) 121
Smith, Captain Robert 109, 110 Raffles Place (Singapore) 227 Temperature 59, 98
Smoking 285 Serangoon Road (Singapore) 235, Temple Street (Singapore) 224–5
Snake Temple (Penang) 115 254 Temples
Social customs 323 Telok Ayer Street (Singapore) 226 Buddha Tooth Relic (Singapore)
Society 54 Temple Street (Singapore) 13, 225
Southern Peninsula 123–37 224–5 Candi Telaga Sembilan (Gunung
Exploring the Southern Peninsula Sukarno, President 50 Jerai) 116
124–5 Sukhothai kingdom 40, 41 Chan See Shu Yuen (Kuala Lumpur)
hotels 279–80 Sultan Abdul Samad Building (Kuala 63, 71
restaurants 294–5 Lumpur) 47, 60, 66, 68 Cheng Hoon Teng (Melaka) 130
Spectator sports Sultan of Brunei 157, 178 Chettiar (Singapore) 223
Malaysian Grand Prix (Selangor) 56 Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque Dhammikarama (Pulau Tikus) 112
Malaysian Open Golf (Brunei) 61, 179 Hainan (Georgetown) 110–11
Championship 56 Sulu Archipelago (Philippines) 43, Kek Lok Si (Penang) 13, 93, 95, 113
Sarawak Regatta (Kuching) 58 46 Kek Lok Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
Singapore Cricket Club 215 Sumangkap (Sabah) 182, 188–9 Khoo Kongsi (Georgetown) 13,
Singapore Grand Prix 207 Sumatra 42, 123 107
Le Tour de Langkawi (Kuala Sumatran rhinoceros 23, 55, 143, 198 Kuan Yin (Georgetown) 109
Lumpur) 56 Sungai Santubong (Sarawak) 164, Kuan Yin Tong (Bintulu) 172
Spices 42, 45, 305 322 Leong San See (Singapore) 235
Sport see Outdoor Activities; Suria KLCC (Kuala Lumpur) 12, 79 Ling Nam (Taiping) 101
Spectator sports Swettenham, Sir Frank 47, 73 Nang Thiam Keng (Pulau Ketam)
Square Tower (Kuching) 162 Swiftlets 22 83
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple (Kuala Syed Alatas Mansion (Georgetown) Perak Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
Lumpur) 56, 70 108 Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya
Sri Mariamman Temple Sze Ya Temple (Kuala Lumpur) 69 (Singapore) 235
(Georgetown) 108 Sam Poh (Cameron Highlands) 99
Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) T Sam Poh Footprint (Batu Maung)
205, 224 Tabin Wildlife Reserve (Sabah) 198 115
Sri Menanti 124, 126, 127 Tadau Kaamatan (Penampang) 57 Sam Poh Tong (Kinta Valley) 101
hotels 280 Taiping 101 Snake (Penang) 115
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi hotels 279 Sri Kanthaswamy Hindu (Kuala
Temple (Melaka) 130 restaurants 293 Pilah) 126
350 GENERAL INDEX
Temples (cont.) Tip of Borneo (Sabah) 181, 189 Water sports (cont.)
Sri Maha Mariamman (Kuala hotels 282 Labuan Marine Park (Pulau
Lumpur) 56, 70 Titiwangsa Lake Gardens (Kuala Labuan) 187
Sri Mariamman (Georgetown) 108 Lumpur) 78 Pulau Payar Marine Park (Pulau
Sri Mariamman (Singapore) 205, Tobacco 48 Langkawi) 121
224 Tomb of Mahsuri (Pulau Langkawi) rafting 11, 187, 315, 317
Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi 119, 120 snorkeling 24, 136, 315, 317
(Melaka) 130 Le Tour de Langkawi (Kuala Waterfalls
Sri Srinivasa Perumal (Singapore) Lumpur) 56 Allan’s Waters 97
223, 236–7 Tourist information 321, 323 Asah (Pulau Tioman) 136
Sri Veerakaliamman (Singapore) KTLA Tourist Information Center Jeriau Waterfall 97
13, 230, 235 72 Lambir Hills National Park
Sze Ya (Kuala Lumpur) 69 MalaysianTourism Information (Sarawak) 61
Thean Hou (Kuala Lumpur) 65, 73 Complex (Kuala Lumpur) 80 Tajor (Sarawak) 169
Thian Hock Keng (Singapore) 13, 212, Trade 55, 123 Tasik Kenyir 146
226, 228–9 history 39–40, 41, 42, 43, 45 Telaga Tujuh Falls (Pulau Langkawi)
Tua Pek Kong (Kuching) 6, 162 Train travel 71, 330–1, 334, 335 121
Wat Chayamangkalaram (Penang) Jungle Railway 155 Weld Quay Clan Piers (Georgetown)
13, 112 North Borneo Railway 187 13, 106
Wat Machimmaram (Kelantan) 154 Penang Hill Railway 113 White Rajahs 46, 48, 157, 163
Wat Phothivihan (Kelantan) 154 Sentosa Express (Singapore) 251 Whitehead, John 193
Wat Syam Nikrodharam (Alor Star) Travel 330–39 Wildlife 22–3, 55, 249, 316, 317
117 air 330, 331, 332–3 Bako National Park 168–9
Terengganu State Museum Complex boat 335 Danum Valley (Sabah) 182, 198
(Kuala Terengganu) 14, 147 bus 331, 336, 337 itinerary 11
Terengganu Stone 40, 41 cities 338–9 Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary
Textile Museum (Kuching) 15, 160 organized tours 331 (Sabah) 17, 197
Textiles 36–7 road 336–7 Klias Wetlands (Sabah) 186
Thailand 40, 44, 47, 93, 117, 139 sea 331 Matang Wildlife Center (Sarawak)
Thaipusam festival 35, 56, 59, 70, 96, train 330–1, 334, 335 165
108 Travel agencies 333 Penang Butterfly Farm 114
Singapore 206, 223, 236 Travel insurance 325 Semenggoh Wildlife Centre
Thean Hou Temple (Kuala Lumpur) Traveler’s Checks 326 (Sarawak) 15, 167
65, 73 Tribal culture 11, 27; see also Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation
Theaters 309, 311 Indigenous people Center (Sabah) 17, 196, 321
Esplanade – Theaters on the Bay Tua Pek Kong (Kuching) 6, 162 Sun Bear Conservation Centre
(Singapore) 33, 216, 258, 259 Tumpat 154, 155 (Sabah) 17, 196
National Theater (Kuala Lumpur) Tun Abdul Razak 50, 51 Sungai Santubong (Sarawak) 164
77 Tun Jugah Gallery (Kuching) 160 Tabin Wildlife Reserve (Sabah)
Singapore 260, 261 Tunku Abdul Rahman 49, 51 198
Victoria Theater and Concert Hall Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park Taman Negara National Park
(Singapore) 214, 216, 258, 259 (Sabah) 185 144–5
Theme parks 308 hotels 282 see also Birdlife; Marine life
Adventure Cove Waterpark Turtle Island National Park (Sabah) 61, Wind Cave (Sarawak) 167
(Singapore) 250 196–7 Windsor, Duke of 241
Bukit Gambang Resort City Turtles 25, 55, 143, 172, 243, 248 Women travelers 322
(Kuantan) 142 Woodcarving 37, 305
Fort Siloso (Singapore) 13, 250 U Woolner, Thomas 216
Genting 96–7 Unfederated Malay States 47, 139 World Harvest Festival (Sarawak) 57
Haw Par Villa (Singapore) 13, 243, United Malays National Organisation World Kite Festival (Johor) 56
248 (UMNO) 49, 54 World War II 80, 153, 196, 241
LEGOLAND® Malaysia (Johor United Netherlands Chartered East Changi Museum (Singapore)
Bahru) 135, 308, 311 India Company (VOC) 42, 43 249
Resorts World Sentosa (Singapore) history 48, 49
13, 251 V Sabah 184, 186–7
Taman Legenda (Pulau Langkawi) Vesak festival 57, 59, 206 World War II Memorial Museum (Kota
120 Victoria, Queen 106, 214, 216 Bharu) 14, 153
Underwater World (Langkawi) Victoria Theater and Concert Hall
13, 121 (Singapore) 214, 216, 258, 259
Underwater World (Singapore) Vinayagar 130 Y
13, 250, 262 Visas 320, 323 Yahya, Sultan 152
Universal Studios (Singapore) Vishnu 236, 237 Yap Ah Loy 63, 71
13, 251 Yee I-Lann 55
Wet World Water Park (Shah Alam) W Yue Gong Niang Niang 228
82 Warren, Stanley 249 Yuen-Peng McNeice, Lady 247
Thian Hock Keng Temple (Singapore) Wat Chayamangkalaram (Penang) 13,
13, 212, 226, 228–9 112
Thimithi Festival (Singapore) 207, 224 Wat Machimmaram (Kelantan) 154 Z
Thompson, Jim 98 Wat Phothivihan (Kelantan) 154 Zheng He 41, 115
Tiger Balm 248 Water sports 315, 317 Zoos
Time 321 diving 61, 137, 146, 200–201, 262, Singapore Zoo 13, 243, 244
Tin 47, 48, 51, 82–3, 93 263, 314, 315, 317 ZoukOut (Singapore) 207
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 351
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many Jacket Designer Tessa Bindloss
people whose help and assistance contributed to the Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris
preparation of this book. DTP Designers Jenn Hadley, Natasha Lu
Production Controller Inderjit Bhullar
Contributors
David Bowden is an Australian expatriate who has Revisions Team
worked in Asia for many years. He calls Malaysia home Louise Abbott, Shruti Bahl, Kiki Deere, Alexandra
and writes and photographs for some of the leading Farrell, Rhiannon Furbear, Amy Harrison, Helena
national and regional newspapers and magazines. Iveson, Jacky Jackson, Sumita Khatwani, Maite
Lantaron, Jude Ledger, Richard Lim, Hayley Maher,
Ron Emmons is a British writer and photographer who Chris Orr, Catherine Palmi, Rada Radojicic, Lucy
has lived in Thailand since the 1990s. He is author of Richards, Stuti Tiwari, Helen Townsend, Zoe Ross.
the DK Top 10 Travel Guide to Bangkok.
Additional Picture Research
Andrew Forbes has lived in Chiang Mai, Thailand for Rachel Barber, Ellen Root.
the past 20 years, where he is editor of CPA Media. He
has visited Malaysia regularly over three decades and Additional Cartography
has contributed to the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Base mapping for Kuala Lumpur derived from Netmaps.
Vietnam and Angkor Wat.
Additional Photography
Naiya Sivaraj has been a traveler and writer for as long Irv Beckman, Simon Bracken, Gerard Brown, Andy
as she can remember, and has recently started to Crawford, Peter Chen, Frank Greenaway, Benu Joshi,
make a living by combining the two. She is currently Barnabas Kindersley, Dave King, Colin Koh, Lawrence
pursuing a journalism program at UCLA. Lim, Ian O’Leary, Lloyd Park, Brian Pitkin, Tony Souter.
Richard Watkins was born in Wales and is a freelance Special Assistance

travel writer. He has written for a number of publica- Many thanks for the invaluable help of the following
tions including various newspapers and magazines in individuals: Jo Chua, Baba-Nyonya Heritage Museum;
the UK, USA, and Australia. Asma Adnan and Mohamad Redza, Islamic Arts
Museum; Rohaya Juli, Money Museum; Noredah
History Consultant Othman, Sabah Tourism Board; Letitia Samuel, Sarawak
Nicholas White is Reader in Imperial and Tourism Board; Serene Lim Si Si, Singapore Tourism
Commonwealth History at Liverpool John Moores Board; S T Ramish, Tourism Malaysia.
University, UK. He has written a number of books and
articles on Malaysian history including (with J.M. Photography Permissions
Barwise) A Traveller’s History of South East Asia, Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following
published by Windrush/Cassell, 2002. for their assistance and permission to photograph at
their establishments:
Phrase Book Writer
E Ulrich Kratz. Islamic Art Museum; Kompleks Budaya Kraf; National
Art Gallery; National Museum; Penang Museum and
Fact Checkers Art Gallery; Royal Museum.
Erik Fearn, Angelia Teo.
Picture Credits
Proofreaders Key: a=above; b=below/bottom; c=center; f=far; l=left;
Shonali Yadav, Stewart J. Wild, Leonie Wilding. r=right; t=top.
Indexer The Merlion symbol has been used with the kind
Jyoti Dhar. permission of the Singapore Tourism Board
(Reference Number STB/J6/07) 210clb.
Design and Editorial
Publisher Douglas Amrine The publishers would like to thank the following
List Manager Lucinda Smith individuals, companies, and picture libraries for their
Managing Art Editor Jane Ewart, kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
Managing Editor Kathryn Lane
Project Editor Ros Walford 1-Altitude: 300tl.123rf.com: Seow Kai Han 143tl;
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352 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 353
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354 PRHASE BOOK
Phrase Book
Malay belongs to the Austronesian family of agreed on a standard form of spelling. Prior
languages, whose several hundred distinct to the 19th century, international trade and
variations cover the Indian and Pacific oceans. relations would have been unthinkable
It is the national language of Malaysia, Brunei, without the use of Malay, but after 1800,
and Singapore, and for many centuries has large-scale immigration from China and India
been the language of learning, diplomacy, resulted in the widespread use of Mandarin
and commerce in this region. One of its Chinese and Tamil in Malaysia. Today, English
earliest scripts, a modified Perso-Arabic script is widely spoken, mostly in urban centers,
called Jawi, was the means by which Islam but any effort made by visitors to speak Malay
was disseminated. Jawi is still widely used in is usually appreciated, particularly in more
Brunei today. Elsewhere, it has been replaced remote parts of the country. Malay, whose
by the Latin script Rumi, which was not spelled official name is Bahasa Melayu, is often incor-
uniformly until Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei rectly called Bahasa, which means language.
Malay Pronounciation Guide u as in boot

There are no strong stresses in the Malay language or as in good
and most letters are pronounced in the same way
ai as in ice
as English. As a general rule, beginners are advised
to stress the penultimate syllable. However, if this or as two separate
syllable contains a mute e, the stress moves to the sounds, as in Hawaii
final syllable. au as in out
a as in father or as two separate
or as in the sounds, as in ba-ut
or as in but c in between tube and choose
e like the “a” in machine j in between due and June
when unstressed; k as English “k” except in a final
or as in bell when stressed letter, when it becomes a glottal
i as in taxi stop (brief pause)
or as in April ng as in singer
o as in morning ngg as in longer
or as in stop ny as in innuendo
In an emergency Communication essentials When? Bila?

Help! Tolong! Yes Ya Which one? Yang mana?
No Bukan/Tidak Who? Siapa?
Stop! Berhentilah!
Why? Mengapa?
Call a doctor! Panggil doktor! Hello Helo
Call an Panggil Goodbye Selamat jalan
Excuse me/
Useful phrases
ambulance! ambulans!
apologies Minta maaf Do you speak Apakah
Police! Polis!
Please Tolong/silahkan English? berbahasa
Fire! Api!
Thank you Terima kasih Inggeris?
Where is the Di mana
I don’t speak Saya belum
You are
nearest telefon Malay. berbahasa
welcome. Kembali
telephone? yang terdekat? Melayu.
Good morning Selamat pagi
Where is the Di mana I don’t Saya kurang
Good afternoon Selamat petang
nearest hospital yang understand. faham.
Good evening Selamat malam
hospital? terdekat? I/we want to... Saya/kami mahu...
Good night Selamat hari
I am lost! Saya sesat! What is your Siapakah
How are you? Apa khabar?
name? nama?
Do you need Awak perlukan
Madam Puan My name is… Nama saya…
help? pertolongan? Sir Encik (Ci’) Where is...? Di mana...?
I’ve been Saya Today Hari ini Is it close by? Sudah dekat?
robbed! dirompak! Tomorrow Esok Is it far away? Masih jauh?
Go away! Pergi! Yesterday Kelmarin Could you Minta perlahan
I’ve had an Saya terlibat Later Esok/Nanti please speak sedikit?
accident. dalam Now Sekarang/Segera drive/walk
kemalangan. What? Apa? slower?
PHRASE BOOK 355
How do I Untuk ke… price harga Would you tell Tolong

get to…? sebaiknya saya sale jualan (murah) me when to beritahukan,
naik apa? sell jual get off? bila sudah
Are children Adakah kanak- shoes kasut sampai?
allowed? kanak dibenerkan shop kedai How long Berapa lama
masuk? supermarket pasar raya does it take untuk ke…?
I like... Saya suka... to get to...?
I don’t like... Saya tidak suka... Nature and sightseeing Which bus Bas mana
goes to…? yang ke…?
bay teluk
Useful words Where do I Di mana
beach pantai
pay? tempat
address alamat cape/ tanjung
membayar?
Attention! Awas! promontory
I need a Kami memerlukan
bad buruk estuary/town kuala
mechanic. mekanik.
big besar hill bukit
I have a Tayarnya
clean bersih information penerangan
flat tire. kempis.
closed tutup island pulau
aeroplane kapal terbang
cold sejuk lake tasik
boat perahu
dirty kotor mosque masjid
bus bas
door pintu mountain gunung
bus stop stesen bas
empty kosong paddy field sawah
car kereta
enough cukup palace istana/astana
car baby seat tempat duduk
entrance masuk park taman
customs cukai
exit keluar river sungai/batang
cycle naik baisikal
full penuh square padang
petrol minyak/petrol
good baik strait selat
return (trip) (perjalanan) pergi
hot panas temple/shrine kuil
balik
less kurang tourist pejabat
seat bayi
more lebih travel agency agensi
single/one tiket sehala
pull dorong pelancongan
way (ticket) pergi balik
push tolak village kampung
taxi teksi
open buka
quick cepat
Colors timetable jadual waktu
train kereta api
slow perlahan black hitam
small kecil blue biru
green hijau
Directions
stairs tangga
red merah here di sini
Banks white putih there di sana
yellow kuning in (di) dalam
Is there an Ada ATM?
from (where) dari (mana)
ATM?
Health left kiri
I want to Saya mau
right kanan
change tukar dollars/ antiseptic antiseptik
straight on jalan terus
dollars/ pounds... blood pressure tekanan darah
in front of di hadapan
pounds...into menjadi ringgit condom kondom
behind di belakang
Malay ringgit. Malaysia. contraceptive kontraseptif/
at the corner di simpang
money wang/duit pencegah hamil
near dekat
change wang kecil dentist dokter gigi
far juah
change money tukar wang diarrhea diarea/cirit-birit
to ke
exchange rate kadar pertukaran doctor dokter
north utara
traveler’s checks cek kembara faint pingsan
south selatan
fever panas (badan)
east timur
Shopping high tinggi
west barat
low rendah
Do you have...? Apakah ada...? northeast timur laut
medicine ubat
Can I have...? Minta...? northwest barat laut
nurse perawat
How many/ Berapa southeast tenggara
pain/ill sakit southwest barat daya
much is it? harganya?
painkillers ubat penghilang
Do you accept Credit card
kesakitan Staying in a hotel
credit cards? boleh?
pregnant hamil
This is too Ini terlalu I have a Ada
expensive. mahal. sanitary towels tuala wanita
reservation. tempahan.
buy beli Do you have Ada
cheap murah Transport a room? bilik?
clothes pakaian I would like to Saya mahu What is the Berapa
expensive mahal reserve a tempahkan charge per semalam?
market pasar/tamu seat. tempat duduk. night?
356 PHRASE BOOK
I want a Saya minta gula sugar Friday hari Jumaat

double/ bilik kelamin/ ikan fish Saturday hari Sabtu
single room. bujang. jus juice Sunday hari Ahad/
I am/we are Saya/kami nak kelapa coconut Minggu
leaving today. mendaftar kopi coffee
kelaur hari ini. manis sweet Cardinal numbers
double kelamin mee noodle
1 satu
single bujang merica pepper
2 dua
bed katil/tempat tidur minuman drink
3 tiga
key kunci nasi steamed rice
4 empat
lights lampu pedas spicy
5 lima
bathroom bilik mandi pedih bitter
toilet tandas 6 enam
sapi beef
soap sabun 7 tujuh
susu milk
towel tuala telur eggs 8 delapan
Open Buka udang prawn/shrimp 9 sembilan
Closed Tutup 10 sepuluh
Emergency Pintu Time and day 11 sebelas
exit kesemasan 12 dua belas
clock jam
13 tiga belas
minute menit
Eating out 20 dua puluh
quarter hour suku
A table please. Minta meja untuk. 21 dua puluh satu
second detik
May I see the Minta daftar 22 dua puluh dua
watch jam tangan
menu? makan? 30 tiga puluh
hour pukul
I would like to Saya mau 40 empat puluh
day hari
order now. pesan sekarang. 50 lima puluh
week minggu
I am Saya month bulan 60 enam puluh
vegetarian. vegetarian. year tahun 70 tujuh puluh
I don’t eat... Saya tidak makan... morning pagi hari 80 delapan puluh
The bill, please. Minta bil. noon tengah hari 90 sembilan puluh
breakfast makan pagi midday siang hari 100 seratus
children’s menu afternoon sore hari 1,000 seribu
menu kanak-kanak evening/night malam hari 2,000 dua ribu
dinner makan malam What is the Sudah pukul 10,000 sepuluh ribu
fork garpu time please? berapa? 20,000 dua puluh ribu
glass kaca mata 11.19 in the pukul sebelas 100,000 seratus ribu
highchair kerusi tinggi morning lewat sembilan 200,000 dua ratus ribu
knife pisau belas menit pagi
lunch makan tengah hari 1 o’clock pukul satu Ordinal numbers
meat daging 1.15 in the pukul satu
restaurant restoran early afternoon lewat suku 1st pertama
seafood makanan laut (midday) siang 2nd kedua
snack makanan kecil 3.45 in the pukul empat 3rd ketiga
spoon senduk afternoon kurang suku 4th keempat
vegetable sayur sore 5th kelima
6.30 in the pukul enam 6th keenam
Menu decoder early evening setengah sore 7th ketujuh
asam sour 9.31 in the pukul sepuluh 8th kedelapan
ayam chicken evening/ kurang dua 9th kesembilan
ayer panas hot water at night puluh menit 10th kesepuluh
ayer sejuk cold water malam 11th kesebelas
ayer teh tea Monday hari Isnin 12th kedua belas
buah-buahan fruit Tuesday hari Selasa 20th kedua puluh
domba lamb Wednesday hari Arba 100th keseratus
garam salt Thursday hari Khamis 1,000th keseribu

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Managing Editor Aruna Ghose

The information in this

Eastern and Central

The Colonial Core

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The orientation maps show

Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo,

and Singpore, in relation to their

mountainous ridge runs down the center of the Kemubu

neighboring countries. In this

peninsula, separating the densely forested and

Penang Lake Kenering Marang

Bagan Serai KELANTAN Tasik Kenyir

covered in a full chapter.

Singapore has its own chapter,

which is further split into

Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo

Alor Gajah Jasin

SARAWAK it Malacca JOHOR

the country in relation to

Each region has a map at

key to the symbols is on the region are described

back flap. here, including an

Archaeological remains found at the influx of Chinese immigrants. As a result

they have to oﬀer to between colonial powers in the area

the visitor today. importance of tin mining in the states

chapter’s sights by category, such Exploring the Southern Peninsula Key

example of Minangkabau craftsmanship, while Seremban, the

Swaying palms and pure white sand on Desaru Beach

2 Regional Map 7 Johor Bahru Pianggu Seribuat

9 Mersing Kayu Papan ARCHIPELAGO

Pengkalan Tampin 3,327 ft Pulau

This map shows the

Islands Kempas Segamat Besar

0 Seribuat Archipelago Tanjung Tuan Alor Gajah

q Pulau Tioman pp136–7 Seri Pantai

Tanah NORT Tangkak Lenga ro Jemaluang Tinggi

an overview of the topo-

Pulau Besar Sungai

graphy of the entire region. it

al Simpang Layang-Layang Mawai

All the sights are numbered Lombong Sedili Kecil

and there are also useful tips

214  SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA T H E C O LO N I A L C O R E A N D C H I N ATO W N  215

the Padang since the 1830s. Today, sporting

view of interesting and

Lumpur and Singapore. The 0 yards 100

ties in with the area map

and the fuller description

Stars indicate the sights that no

Numbers refer to each

12 miles (20 km) N of Kuching.

After meandering through the

O Matang Wildlife Center

Gunung Santubong towering over Sungai Santubong

Practical information provides

Color tabs refer to the The 60-ft- (20-m-)

to a particular region. shrine is in honor of Ganesh, the

1 The inner sanctum is where the

Major Sights on temple activities.

Historic buildings are dissected to Thaipusam Festival

Penang and Langkawi

Kinabalu National Park

Malaysia & Singapore (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

Malaysia & Singapore (Eyewitness Travel Guides)

214 SINGAPORE AREA BY AREA T H E C O LO N I A L C O R E A N D C H I N ATO W N 215