AFV Modeller 97 2017-11-12 - Superunitedkingdom

Issue 97 Cover.
qxp_Issue 26 cover 06/10/2017 11:55 Page 1
97
NOV/DEC 2017 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
November / December 2017
Meng AFV Modeller
A N DY G U L D E N ’ S PA N Z E R I V AU S F. J
THE END IS NEAR

AFV-97 Nov/Dec 2017.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 09/10/2017 13:54 Page 1
CONTENTS
2 In The Devil’s Hands
Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.
10 The End is Near

Andy Gulden returns with another stunning 1:16 scene.
20 Buffalo Soldier
Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.
28 Panzerkampfwagen IV Part 15
The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.
36 Señor Patton
Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.
46 Keeping Track
New releases.
58 Syrian Shilka
We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.
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1
ISSN 2059-4305
In The
Devil’s
2
Hands
1:35
P E T E U S H E R ’ S D R A M AT I C AW A R D - W I N N I N G V I G N E T T E
3
Beast Killer
ISU-152 was a Russian fixed turret fully losses to German armour frustration German SS forces pulling frightened
enclosed assault gun also capable of grew around the JSU and they were Russians out of a disabled JSU. The
serving as a tank-destroyer. The seen as a real prize to knock out and crew were clearly in a perilous
Russian army used the JSU until the the Germans could only dream of situation. Using out the box figures
1970s. Reading the reference I had, I capturing the crew of one of these was clearly out of the question, so I
found out this vehicle received an mighty beasts. knew some converting and sculpting
interesting nickname ‘’The Beast Killer’ I wanted to depict a scene of high was going to be needed.
this was earned for its ability to knock emotion in a relatively small
out the heaviest of German tanks, environment. The composition of the I bought two Tamiya JSU-152 kits, one
many of which were named after diorama was going to be critical to would be a dummy kit so the figures
animals, such as elephant, rhinoceros give a clear story and portray the could be sculpted to fit perfectly.
(Nashorn) Panther and of course Tiger! feelings of the troops involved.
With this new tank causing massive The idea soon solidified in my mind of
C o m p o s e Yo u rs e lve s
During the sculpting phase, I
knew there would be a lot of man-
handling of the kit plus putty and
talcum powder used. These are all
not great materials to have left
around for a flawless airbrushed
finish! The ‘disposable’ JSU was
only basically assembled; if it didn’t
interact with the figures or the level
of the vehicle, I didn’t attach it.
The key to any diorama

is composition. All the
figures must interact, and
a natural symmetry between
them is essential to building a
story. The figures in the
diorama were based on those
from Evolution and Dragon. The
base figures received different
degrees of conversion ranging from
just newly sculpted arms to others
needing almost completely new
uniforms. All the new limbs were made
from wire armatures covered in two layers
of Magic Sculp. All figures were given new
heads from the Hornet range. Some bald
heads were needed for the right expression
on the faces, so magic sculp was also used
to create the disheveled hair of the tank
crew. Once undercoated all the figures were
painted with Vallejo acrylics.
4
Dirty Thirty-three
After first using ‘the hairspray technique’ to achieve The white spots were then gently dragged After the washes were applied I was able to return
the basis of the worn whitewash I continued to add and blended into the panel; this gives a with the white and add more intensity in selected
depth to the worn finish. Each panel was first lightly nice uneven white dimension. areas, here the white still needs blending with
dampened with enamel thinner, then random spots thinner.
of white Humbrol No 34 were applied.
Black brown LS09 oil paints from Wilder were Dark Green LS15 with a little LS 16 faded green from the same range was added in small
heavily thinned and fed into the recesses to amounts around the edge of the panel this was then blended inward towards the centre of
isolate the panel in a pin wash fashion. These the panel. LS18 basic earth added to the centre of the panel gives a nice muted effect.
paints are really nice to use and dry with a
very matt finish.
I wanted the ‘beast killer’ to look like it had hand painted on by the crew. original green in most parts. From here on
seen many months in the field, so an Once this stage was complete; several in I changed my approach, I would
extremely worn look was planned. I have layers of cheap hairspray was applied to normally work each weathering stage
always had good results from Tamiya the entire kit. Tamiya white mixed with across the entire vehicle. Instead, I almost
Acrylics so used them for the initial painting Tamiya Earth were sprayed in a patchy completed each panel individually before
stages. I knew most of the original Russian manner over the main body of the kit. On moving onto the next. After only a few
green would be obscured and covered with the sides of the tank, the whitewash was panels I found I really enjoyed the panel by
the following techniques, but I still used a removed with a damp brush in the panel system. I also found that as I worked
mild modulation effect to highlight areas opposite direction to which the tank would around the tank my techniques slightly
towards the upper surfaces and picked out have been travelling. To further erode the changed and improved, I’m sure we get
some raised points with a lighter green winter paint I used the edge of some fine better with each kit we make. This
mixture. As I had two sets of decals from point tweezers to make scratches in the technique almost made each panel like an
the two kits I could make the number 33, thin paint while it was still soft. Flat individual model yet relating to the panel
these were hand painted over the top and surfaces were gently scrubbed to before and after it.
some artistic license was used to alter the represent crew movement, most of the flat
shapes slightly to make them look more surfaces were almost taken back to the
5
Streaking Grime from the Mig range was used to age the scratches and the bullet
strikes on the hull.
To create scuffs and scratches through to the original green factory finish, Vallejo black-green was
used both with a fine brush and a small piece of torn sponge using a ‘dabbing’ action.
Base washes of brown tones and an oily black around the outlet formed Heavier applications of pigments give a realistic ‘sooty’ finish.
the basis of the exhausts.
More pigments came into play with a heavy build up of earth around the
lower hull. Various tones give the dry and wet effects.
6
With the presence of round strikes

on the front of the tank, I thought it
might be a good idea to have the
front lamp looking worse for wear
with a smashed front glass cover.
I needed a reflective mirror that
sits in the back of the lamp.
This is how I made it. Domestic tin
foil shiny side down was pressed
over the end of a rounded paint
brush.
Run a modelling knife a few
millimeters down and around the
top of the brush, then lift off the
small foil dish shape.
The foil dish is placed into the light
housing and the light bulb and
wires fitted can then be added.
The hanging out bulb and wires
were from my spares box.
Grounded
As the focal point of the scene is the A base layer of sculpt-a-mold mixed The second layer of sculpt-a-mold was mixed with dark brown and black
figures groundwork was kept with water and a little white glue can acrylics. Large tubes of paint can be bought from large hobby shops. This is
minimal. After forming a raised then be spread out over a styrene a better option than using the smaller Model paints. The sculpt-a-mold can
edging to contain the earth mixture I base. absorb a fair amount of paint before it reaches a nice ‘muddy’ consistency.
assembled the basic materials. This can be spread out over the white layer below.
Sculpt-a-mold, fine earth and sand,
fine plant roots.
To create the correct ‘sit’ of the vehicle, I wrapped the kit in Once the base was dry (48 hours) a layer of The kit tracks were used to recreate the
cling film and pushed it into the soft base material. The kit can thinned PVA glue was brushed over. Then dry plant track marks in the ground where the tank
then be removed after a few hours when the sculpt-a-mold pot earth was sprinkled over the area. had been before grinding to a halt.
has started to harden but by no means cured.
7
8
In The
Devil’s
Hands
9
ANDY GULDEN’S PA N Z E R I V A U S F. J
WHEN Trumpeter announced a 1/16 scale

Panzer IV H, I hoped a J model would soon
follow. Only a few months later my wishes were
granted and I immediately purchased one and
cleared off the work bench to begin this journey.
A battle weary tank, crew and infantry, surviving
the last months of the war, was the perfect
setting to place this iconic vehicle of World War II
10
11
The Kit The Build

Trumpeter’s 1/16 scale tanks have been I stared the construction by basically an appropriate level of use. Unfortunately,
well received by the fans of the larger following all the steps need to build the an ill-timed computer gremlin ran away
scale. They provide a nice option for an out interior and close up the model before with any pictures of the final product, so
of the box build or a solid base for a super concentrating on the exterior. Knowing I you’ll have to take my word for it!
detailed project. I have taken an approach was placing the model in a diorama, I did
somewhere in the middle. Without many not put the same effort into correcting or Once the hull and turret were closed up, I
after-market option for detailing, much of detailing the interior as the editor of this was able to concentrate on the exterior.
my improvements needed to be scratch magazine is doing! I was going for just Before I started the detail work, I textured
built using good old modelling techniques. enough character that could be seen from the steel plates by bouncing a Dremel tool
I knew the Schürzen needed some the various open hatches, omitting the with a large grinding bit. Tamiya extra thin
attention and a few details had to added or engine completely, as it would not be cement was brushed over the affect to
removed to make this a January 1945 seen. I built the interior per the instructions smooth out the rough texture. Not quite
production model. Trumpeter has seemed only adding Aber MG barrels. The radio satisfied with the result, Mr Surfacer 500
to give you a very late model, which only a received a few wires to make it look the was stippled on with an old brush to bring
handful were produced at the very end of part. When the construction was finished, it up to spec.
the war. I will highlight the changes I made everything was painted with the standard
as I go along. off white and red primer colours using
various Tamiya acrylics and weathered it to
12
ANDY GULDEN’S PA N Z E R I V A U S F. J
Following the directions for the most part but

adding details as I go, the rest of the construction
went pretty well. The following areas received a
little extra refinement
• Aber fire extinguisher was added

• Aber gun cleaning rods for the King Tiger were
modified down to size
• Aber tool clamps
• Scratch built tool holders and stops from scrap
photo etch frets
• Replaced grab handles with appropriate sized
brass rod
• Aber Muzzle break for the main gun
• Scratch built gun cleaning rod brackets from
brass stock and Aber clamps
• Nuts and bolts from Meng were used to detail
the various Schürzen brackets
• Various weld beads made from 2-part epoxy
and shaped with a wet cocktail stick
• Modified the jack block to the last configuration
seen using a spring and chain strap
• Removed one front fender and made the other
workable with homemade hinges
13
New woven mesh

screen and brackets
was a big
improvement to the
look of the shurtzen
screens compared to
the the original kit
versions on the left.
To add a bit of interest two of the road wheels received some With the help of the Panzer Track volume on the PZ IV, H and J
damage in the form of a fractured section and stripping one of models, I could, rather accurately, dimension the mesh wire size
the outer rubber sections. The driver’s side front fender was and spacing. I was lucky to find some #30 stainless steel mesh
heated ever so slightly with a candle flame and the soft plastic from an industrial supply warehouse that worked perfectly. I
was twisted and bent to show some battle damage. Some of the scaled up the Panzer Track drawing to 1/16 scale and went about
rivet detail needed to be replaced following these modifications. building them with plastic strip and brass stock bent to the
appropriate shapes. I was pretty satisfied with the results, as they
One area I knew I that need some attention was the Schürzen were a big improvement over the kit parts. It was now off to the
wire mesh screens on the hull. The Trumpeter effort in this area paint shop.
was less than ideal. They were under detailed, and very toy like.
Painting
Per my usual steps, I started with a good coat of Tamiya grey and even some flat yellow plus a few drops of white in spots.
primer from the can and pre-shaded all the corners, panel joints Always being careful to keep the lightest colours on highest
and running gear with a mixture of Tamiya NATO Black and Flat surfaces. Late war J’s seem to have a pretty constant, factory
Earth before applying the base coat. Knowing the weathering applied camouflage pattern. Armed with some good quality
process was going to be rather extreme on this tank I opted for a reference pictures I proceeded to lay down the camo colours the
rather bright combination of colours. The Dark yellow base was best I could. I mixed the green and brown using various Tamiya
built up from various colours starting with Tamiya Khaki and paints being mindful to keep them as light as possible without
building up of light coats of Dark Yellow, Dark Yellow and white changing the tone value of each.
14
Weathering
My first step in the weathering process was to create a thick treatments. AK washes and pigments finished up the streaking
buildup of mud along the hull sides and running gear. A mixture and overall grime of hull. Once a satisfied result was achieved,
of Celluclay, fine sand, white glue and earth toned acrylic paints the same treatment was given to the road wheels and tracks. I
were mixed up and liberally applied in logical locations were won’t bore you with the repetitive nature of the rest of the
mud would collect. Once dry, many applications of thin washes weathering but the standard filters, chips, washes and pigments
using Tamiya Flat Earth, Flat Brown and NATO Black thinned with finished up the process. I decided to add some interest and I
tap water were brushed on until a proper look was achieved. I applied a different camo pattern and a scruffy white wash to one
decided to add a final layer of grit using the new AK Interactive on the turret Schürzen plates. Detail painting of the tools and
“Dark Earth” Terrain. This added a nice scale top layer for further accessories completed the model.
15
At this point it was time to modify the Base

figures to fit the tank and start A thick layer of the same mud mix
thinking about the base before the used on the hull was built up on the
weathering went too far. This is also a foam base. While still wet, broken
good time to arrange and place all twigs, tree roots, small stones and a
the external gear and accessories wire fence were pushed into the
that will add some character. base. After letting this mess dry for
an hour or so, the tank was placed in
• Used Apoxy-Sculpt to make the its final position, allowing it to sink
various tarps. just a bit into the ground work. The
• Sourced spare track from a same color treatment as the tank’s
Remote Control manufacture. mud was applied to the ground work,
• Built and painted a fuel drum and resulting in a nice continues finish.
Jerry cans from Classy Hobby.
• Built up ground work with foam
insulation and framed the sides
with bass wood.
• Contoured and smoothed out the
ground work using plaster.
16
AK’s new 2-part resin water kit was used to build up a

few locations of standing water. I followed the
directions and built up the affect in thin layers, a few
drops of Field Drab from Vallejo added a nice muddy
look. “Green Stuff World” leaf punch provided a nice
detail with scale leaves punched from dried leaves.
Figures
All 5 figures need a bit of work before painting could
start. The standing tank commander is an Alpine
offering that was converted from Wehrmacht to SS.
The seated figures are from the outstanding but long
out of production Tiger I set from S&T, sculpted buy
John Rosengrant. They needed a bit of work to get
them to fit on a Panzer IV, mostly by adding some
17
bulk to the bottom of their jackets were they sat on the

various surfaces. The grenadier standing on the
ground is from Jeff Shiu and was a visibly larger than
the others so a bit of his legs and boot were sanded
off to get him close to the same size. As long as you
don’t place near the others, it’s hard to tell the
difference. One a good coat of primer was applied, the
base was sprayed using various Tamiya greens and
grays. Vallejo Model Color was
then used for the highlight,
shadows and accessories. Artist
oils were used for all flesh tones.
Some wire pins and two-part epoxy
secured them to the various surfaces.
This was a fun overall project and I was pretty happy

with the result. As trumpeter keeps bringing the larger
scale vehicles, they’ll keep making their way onto my
work bench.
18
19
WHEN I stumbled across the excellent book “Sturmgeschützbrigade

191” by Bruno Bork I immediately fell in love with the subject. The units
from the so called Büffel-Brigade (Buffalo brigade) modified their StuGs
with a layer of additional steel welded to the hull and fender. Besides
that the commander’s copula received a projectile deflector and all the
empty spaces behind the field-applied armour were filled with concrete
for further protection.
With all the modifications these vehicles almost looked like small
Jagdpanthers and this unique look was my main motivation to create
this model.
Techniques like the hairspray technique offer us some very realistic
effects, but I still struggle when it comes to painting soft materials like
cloth and figures. When you reach a certain level of quality and
knowledge it’s very hard to work outside your comfort zone. It’s too
easy to just repeat what you are used to and so I wanted to
challenge myself with lots of stowage and two crew figures.
Maybe this build can inspire some of you to look out for unique
subjects and also to challenge yourself while working on your weak
spots. I swore a lot during process, smashed the model into pieces
thanks to a small accident and repainted the figures two times, but in
the end I learned a lot, gained more confidence and best of all, I
finished a model with a strong emotional connection. Let me guide
you through the project.
20
M a n u e l R e i n h e r ’s
Büffel-Brigade StuG III
21
Using the nice StuG III G from Dragon I decided to scratch After the welds dried I filled the empty space behind the amour with
build the add-on armour using thin plastic card. After the “concrete” using also Pro-create. The surface was textured with a
application the weld seams were created using ProCreate wire brush. ProCreate is a two component putty, but I’m sure other
putty. To structure the welds I used a round profile rod brands will work with similar results.
attached to a pine vice.
Nice resin casts from Legend

were used as a base for the
stowage. Additional items
from different brands and To show the extra weight and
tarps made from ProCreate tell the story of a veteran I
filled the rest of the empty lowered the suspension. As the
deck. Dragon kit has adjustable
suspension arms that task was
quite easy. Simply glue the first
and last roadwheel in the
desired position and once dry
you can adjust all the other
roadwheels to the right
position.
22
After a short bath in soapy water it was time to start the compressor. I didn’t The whole vehicle received a layer of hairspray which I decanted into a
use primer, instead I mixed a red/brown colour using Tamiya paints. To get a dropper style to spray it using my airbrush for greater control. The hairspray
nice smooth surface I added FX-22 clear to the paint and sprayed it with my provides an ‘unstable’ base for further colours.
airbrush thinned with lacquer thinner. A quick misting of AK Satin varnish
unified the surface.
For the dark-yellow I used a mix of Mig 0011 & Mig 012 thinned with Vallejo After that I used several old brushes and blades to carefully work the surface
airbrush thinner. I did a very subtle modulation to separate the structural with warm water revealing the first layers of colour. I tried to stay as much in
details changing the mix between the two colours. scale as possible.
23
After the base chipping is done another layer of hairspray was applied. Now I yellow. To represent this, the camouflage was applied in a very random and
mixed two camouflage colours using for the brown: Model Air 71.249 & Mig patchy style. Once I was happy with the look I started the chipping treatment
014, and for the green: Mig 003 & Model Air 71.250. of the two camo colours.
According to the book by Bruno Bork the vehicles arrived at the front in dark
For the markings I used home-made stencils. For this model I started the weathering with a They are cheap, very flexible in use and because of
I chose a suitable font and printed the different approach. Instead of working my way their drying time you have very good control of your
numbers on a piece of paper. After that I through different steps I tried to include as many effects. I placed a range of colours on a piece of
traced the numbers onto a piece of Tamiya effects in a single work session limited to specific cardboard (to draw out excess oil) and started to
masking tape and applied the mask to the area of the vehicle. This way I was able to get an place small amounts of colours to a specific section
model. early idea about how the final model will look like, of the vehicle. Weathering like filters, washes, chips,
and also the process is more creative and flexible first layers of dirt and rust effects were created in a
than following a strict order of steps. single session.
My preferred weathering tools are oil colours.
To keep me motivated I switched tasks and worked on the worn, chipped wood which is part of the For the tracks I used ‘Blacken-it’ for the first
stowage. Small strips of wood were darkened with thinned acrylic colour and then the excellent time. The application is quite easy and I really
Distress Paint from ‘Ranger’ was applied in an even coat. During the drying process the very realistic liked the result. An old toothbrush helped to
cracks appeared. The planks were painted individually and once assembled, the whole element work the agent into every corner. After a few
received a treatment with oil colours. minutes the tracks show a nice base for
further weathering.
My goal was a vehicle operating in the Ammo of Mig Heavy Mud was used to define the In the end I switched back to good old
autumn/spring time and therefore mud and dirt is surface further. I speckled the paste to the lower pigments to create the muddy texture. Using
an essential element. I wanted to test some of the sections of the model. Using white spirit as a various pigments applied dry I built up the mud
new products available and started with TE08 Light thinner I also applied the mix to the road wheels. layer. A few drops of thinner, applied with a
Grey Earth from Wilder applied using an old brush. Although I really liked the effect on the roadwheels pipette fixed everything in place. Although not
the lower hull didn’t satisfy me. durable still this method works best for me.
24
With the initial weathering done I

switched once again to oils and
added streaks of rust and dirt.
I simply painted some runs in
suitable dark brown and rust colours.
Then I blended the streaks in a
vertical movement using an almost
dry clean brush.
One big challenge for me was the

stowage. I’ve never done it in this
amount, and painting soft materials
such as cloth is still something I find
tricky. After a base coat with my
Airbrush I painted each piece using thin
layers of acrylics from Vallejo. After the
painting it was weathered like the rest of
the vehicle. The fuel barrel made out of
zinc was painted using the very nice
range of metal colours from Games
Workshop. It was weathered using oils
and some gloss varnish around the cap
area.
Disaster strikes as I managed to knock the model

from my workbench! After a cold beer and a nights
sleep I tackled the repair work which required
some retouching of paint damage after restoring
some welds and cementing parts back in place.
Additionally paper leaves from Plusmodel and

As Büffel means ‘buffalo’ in German I added a To enhance the look of the mud areas I paid special leaves cut with the punch sets from RPToolz were
slightly modified resin skull from Mantis. This attention to a wide variety of textures. I cut small pieces strategically placed to the model and fixed with
detail helped to personalize the vehicle further. of hemp for the imitation of dried grass and fixed them super glue. After that they were blended in with the
using the mud colours from Mig. mud colors.
25
The last important element I wanted to add were the crew

figures. It has been seven years since I finished my last
figures so it felt like starting from scratch again. The crew
is from the ‘Tank’ range, I improved one of the heads
using an excellent item from Alpine and added some
further details with Magic Sculp. The crew was painted
with acrylics from Ammo and Vallejo.
I started the uniforms by airbrushing a light and dark
version of the base colour using my airbrush. Then I
painted the green and brown patches using reference
images. The patches were highlighted and all the details
outlined with a dark brown color. Once I was happy I
added thin rainmarks using a brown colour. Using a high
quality brush and carefully diluted paint is a must for tasks
like this.
26
27
Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit Part Fifteen
This installment involves a little jumping about between different the heat of the exhaust manifolds. This marked the end of the
areas as the time to start thinking about paint approached. I construction phase of the engine bay at least and considering the
needed to complete parts of the electrical system that are future progress of the project it seemed like an appropriate time to
mounted on the engine bulkhead and with several variations for think about some painting. To minimise the need for masking it
the position of these parts, quite a bit of research was needed seemed to be sensible to pre-paint the separate inner floor panel
before I was happy to proceed. Next it was back into the engine and whilst I had the airbrush running to also paint some of the
bay looking at heat shields to protect various components from other completed internal parts.
The battery starting change over switch is mounted on the firewall. It appears
that the exact position for this and the master switch differs depending on the
air filter choice and possibly manufacturing factory. The basic shape was
constructed from squares of plastic.
To form the connection points for the cables I simply crimped the ends of the As the postion of the switch varies so does the location of the electrical
cables using a pair of pliers. cables. I used 1.5mm lead wire to make the cable and using 5 minute epoxy
glue to firmly secure it in position. As I was not planning to detail the battery
connection below the floor this crude fixing was ideal. At this stage I was
unaware that my change over switch was too wide and would need to be
corrected.
I set about adding detail to the change over switch with ABER photoetched The switch is test fitted to finalise the position of the cables.
screw heads and plastic rod for the various connections. The connection
28 points are covered with a protective plate which I made from brass sheet and
self-adhesive aluminum foil for the wiring diagram placard mounted on it.
And the cover test fitted too. At this stage I began to realise that I would need The revised switch is considerably narrower and closer in width to the heater
to shorten the width of my switch to bring it into scale, something that is vent on the firewall.
always a danger when you are estimating sizes.
Another component of the tank’s electrical system is the master switch which The master switch is constructed from plastic with some spare photoetched
is also a part who’s position varied. Evidence for the Ausf.H suggests that it is fret used to construct the bracket.
mounted to the side of the air intake on a bracket.
Back to the engine bay now where I constructed this heat shield for the This was not correct so the bracket was adapted to attach to the engine it
exhaust pipe from brass sheet. These thin sheet metal parts don’t usually what seemed like a logical way, a certain amount of guesswork being needed.
survive and initially I thought it was mounted on the rear wall with this bracket.
The rear wall bracket was in fact to mount another heat shield which The shield was again constructed from brass sheet because it was easy to
protected the electrical boxes mounted in the corner of the hull. bend to shape and yet strong once the mounting bracket is soldered in place.
29
1 2 3
I needed to make a new universal joint for the engine flywheel because the sides of the plastic were trimmed away to the correct size. 4 The rounded
kit part really did not look correct or suitable to adapt so I had to start from shape was then created using sponge sanding pads. 5 Discs of plastic were
scratch. 1 Starting with a big section of square plastic rod I drilled out the added where the central bar fits and this bar was salvaged from the kit part.
centre hole and I used a burr in a motor toll to cut away the curve at the The cast texture was added using a coat of Mr Surfacer. 6 The joint was
base. 2 The shape was refined and the mouth of the joint cut open. 3 The trimmed off the plastic rod and mounted on a disc.
4 5 6
I modified the other connector on the drive shaft by rounding the edges and Another last minute job in the engine bay was the wiring frame to carry the
adding the pair of plastic discs. Whilst not entirely accurate it is likely to be electrical output cables from the auxiliary generator, made from strip with
hidden from view on the finished model. squares of plastic for the cable clamp points.
Some final missing details on the engine were the heat shields which protect The dynamo also has its own shield with a slot to accommodate the
components from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This shield for the oil tank tensioner. The shield is bolted onto the dynamo mounting straps by two bolts.
was formed from some aluminium foil with three ribs embossed lengthways. In order to get this to fit I had to remove the electrical outlet socket from the
30 Two plastic card supports were used to mount it at an angle onto the oil tank. dynamo so that it could be repositioned below the shield.
Left The new outlet socket was constructed from plastic rod and fitted to the
dynamo with a pre-drilled hole in the outlet for it to be wired up at a later
stage.
Below Finally it seemed an appropriate time to consider fixing the inner hull in
place and before doing so, to get some paint applied to the interior while the
parts were still separate. I began by applying a primer of Mr Oxide Red
Surfacer 1000 to the areas that had yet to be primed like the firewall and
engine bay walls. The separate inner floor made this easy and I only had to
mask the colour split where the firewall is positioned. Although this gives a
good colour I then applied Vallejo Cavalry red over the primer as this would
permit me to easily brush paint any parts or repair the paintwork with a
perfect match. For the interior Ivory I used Lifecolour UA232 Elfenbein which I
think best replicates the real thing. Both colours were sealed with a coat of
Satin varnish.
Dry fitting the main parts of the engine bay. Happily all the pin marks and
filled holes on the rear plate are now invisible.
The engine was given an overall coat of Gunze RLM66 during which I Constant handling of the firewall over the months had caused some damage
managed to drop it causing severe damage to the oil cooler. It could have which needed to be repaired. In the course of this I removed the access
been so much worse and I was able to repair the damaged parts and finish doors and added the insulating strips to the lips of the doors. Flattened lead
the painting of the engine. wire was used as it was easy to shape around the corners. 31
With the repairs made and the doors refitted the crew side of the firewall was With painting underway it made sense to paint other parts of the interior that
given a coat of Lifecolor Elfenbein. were complete like the transmission which was painted in Gunze RLM 75
The internal floor could now be glued in place and I

began to add the internal welds which form the hull.
Rolled lengths of Magic Sculp were positioned in
the hull.
I used my own tool made from brass tube to texture

the putty and the excess was cleaned away.
The welds were then brushed over with a wet brush to blur and soften the
pattern to give this finished effect.
Right Once the putty has dried I brush painted a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer
1500 Grey over the welds. This seals any gaps and enhances the soft effect
of the pattern.
32
Keeping the batch painting going I dealt with the The Battery start switch could now be installed on the firewall and the cables clamped in place with some
battery start switch, primer pump and fuel valve, plastic bolts courtesy of the RP Toolz Hex Punch and Die. Once these were painted the protective cover
using a base coat of Alclad. the placards on the could be fitted.
fuel valve were brush painted.
A small detail that I almost overlooked were the internal bracings for the The firewall was given a subtle wash prior to being installed in the hull while it
suspension bump stops inside the hull. These are hidden by the fuel tanks in was still easy to access all the details.
the centre of the hull but are visible in the engine bay and in the bow.
The restricted access to the base of the bulkhead made adding welds using The new welds were then painted to match the rest of the engine bay and the
putty difficult so I used sections of Slater’s plastic rod in these area which floor was weathered using a mix of splatters and puddled oil. The initial oil
were then soaked with liquid cement to create a weld texture. spatters were made with Lifecolour oil and the bigger puddles and drips were
applied using Wilder Old Grease.
To begin fitting out the engine bay I started to add the electrical cables for The cables were painted using Vallejo dull aluminium and the rings painted to
the generator. These were made from a woven cable supplied as tow rope in match the colours used in the original vehicle. Cable clamps were added
Tamiya’s 1:48 tank kits. The colour coding rings were made using Albion using strips of aluminium foil with photoetched bolts. 33
Alloys aluminium tube which was cut open and crimped around the cables.
The project continues in the next Issue
36
37
The M47 was the result of the U.S. included fire control upgrades as well as I have known for a while that I wanted to
needing a new line of tanks early in the the diesel engine from the M60. The most make a Spanish M47 with the 105mm
1950’s as the war in Korea required many visible aspect of this upgrade is the new gun. I like the idea of a tank that was built
of the M26 and M46 tanks that would engine deck for the diesel engine. Some in the early 1950’s being upgraded as far
have been used in other theatres of nations continued to upgrade the M47 to as it could go and keeping pace with the
operation. The hope was to have give similar performance of the M60 and M60 line. I chose the Spanish version
developed the T42 for service, but as the fitted a 105mm main gun. The Spanish since they took it past the development
need for tanks was greater than the time Army chose to upgrade some of their stage and actually fielded the vehicle.
to develop a new tank, the turret for the M47’s with the Rheinmetall 105-30
T42 was mated with the M46 hull. Over smoothbore main gun to create the Once I received the Takom M47 E/M I
8500 M47’s were produced between 1951 M47E2. Many nations also eliminated the began construction and quickly
and 1953. The M47 never saw combat assistant driver and coax machine gun assembled most of the hull and
service in Korea and was soon replaced in and used that space for a crew heater suspension. While I was working on the
U.S. inventories by the M48. The M47’s and extra ammunition stowage. hull, I contacted Javier Villarroya via his
were then exported to many nations While the M47 has been used for years email fjvillarroya@yahoo.com (I don’t
around the world. Though it was short with many nations and conflicts, modellers believe he has a website for his products).
lived in the U.S., the M47 served those have only had the veteran Italeri M47 kit to Javier is from Spain and makes resin
nations it was exported to for many years work with which dates back to the 1970’s. conversions and vehicles of Spanish
and in numerous conflicts, with some It has stood the test of time quite well, subjects. Of particular interest to me was
countries still using them or variants of however, it only offers the standard M47 the conversion of the M47E2 for the old
them today. variant and needed work and donor kits to Italeri kit and the 105mm gun. The Rh 105
change it to something along the lines of is similar but slightly different in
Since the M47 had such a long service life a version with a diesel engine M47, I appearance to the standard L7/M68
around the world, many would be myself have a few Italeri M47’s and donor 105mm. As it turns out he has updated
upgraded to keep pace with evolving kits in storage. Recently Takom began his conversion to cover the changes
technologies. A common upgrade was the releasing an updated M47 line, thereby needed for the Takom kit.
M(odern) or E(urope) upgrade. This negating the need to build a conversion.
One of the items that Javier pointed out to other than the first and second road wheel and outer distance between the housings
me was that the Spanish M47 E1 and E2s should be equidistant from each other. of the middle torsion bars. These
moved the last road wheel forward versus I used a razor saw removed from its measurements were locked into the
backward as the Takom kit has done. The handle to careful cut the last torsion bar caliper and this was used to draw a line
last road wheel was moved during the housing from the hull. The razor saw on the hull based on the distance from the
diesel engine conversion to make room provided and nice thin cut. This was next to last housing. A ruler was used to
for the oil pan of the engine. M47’s made somewhat difficult by the fact that I draw a line on the along the bases of the
converted in the U.S. had the road wheel had already attached the lower hull parts. housing. These lines formed a box for me
moved back, where as those converted The removal of the housing was not to reattach my housing and the hole left
in Spain and perhaps elsewhere in Europe flawless and did require some sanding to from the removal of the housing was filled
moved the wheel forward. In short, check smooth the surface for the eventual in. The bump stop and the shock absorber
your photo references carefully. For the reattachment of the housing. were moved forward also, all of these
Spanish M47E variants all the road wheels A caliper was used to measure the inner parts need to be moved forward 3mm.
This shows the road wheels in position as the Takom kit provides. Note the Here the last road wheel has been moved forward to be equidistant with the
gap between the last two road wheels. While this positioning is correct for other wheels with the only large gap being between the first and second
the M47M’s, the rear wheel may need to be moved forward if building a road wheel. This is the common arrangement seen on M47E’s in service
M47E. with the Spanish Army.
38
The movement of the last road wheel had the Plastic strips were cut to the proper length for each track pad and laminated to create
unfortunate knock-on effect of coming up two replacement track pads and to create new tread. Spare connectors were used to join the
track links short (one link on each side, though I pads. The tracks and lower hull were primed black while exposed prior to the addition of the
moved both to one side. I positioned this shortfall upper hull parts. While the replacement track pads are not perfect, they are hard to find when
under the front fender to help reduce the visibility primed. Once the mud guards are installed the replacements will not be noticeable at all!
of any solution I created.
It has been observed that there is a difference in It appears that the Spanish M47E2’s used the The infantry phone box and gun cradle
the bulge for the bow machine gun between the armoured air filter boxes. The Takom kit provides provided by Takom are incorrect for a
Takom and Italeri kits. Photographic evidence the unarmored version. I had the armoured M47E2. The upgrade set from Javier
shows that both are correct and this is simply a housing as spares from an AFV Club M60A2 kit provides the correct version. Supports
difference in the factory a particular vehicle was and decided to use that with the remaining parts were added for the phone box.
manufactured. coming from the Takom kit. Javier does provide
resin replacments in his update set but I always
prefer to bond plastic to plastic when possible.
Another feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the

use of German style smoke grenade launchers.
Takom’s other version of the M47 provide parts
for a German M47. Fortunately these parts are
The model prior to painting. I had primed the on the sprues of the M47 E/M kit. Some chain
suspension and lower hull as mentioned already. At and the nipple for the launcher covers was
this point I hadn’t decided if I would use the M2 added. The smoke launchers are in
machine gun. the way of the lower rails on both
sides of the turret, which requires
both rails to be shortened.
39
The distinctive feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the Rh105-30

gun. While it is similar to the L7 series, it is different enough that
the builder will have to scratch build one, modify a L7 barrel or
buy one. The only aftermarket one that I am aware of is from
Javier Villarroya. The barrel that he produces is designed to be
attached to the mantlet without a cover. Most photos show the
M47E2 with the mantlet cover. I modified the kit provided cover
along with a resin portion from DEF Models and some putty to
attach the barrel. It may have been better to have made the
entire cover from putty, but my sculpting skills
are not particularly good.
Trying to decide what is the correct colour for the Spanish from more green to more brown. After the initial painting was
vehicles proved to be a bit challenging. Photos ranged from a done I painted various highlights and features in different
brown finish to green. However, most show a brown tone to shades to start adding variation and visual interest to the model.
them. My first attempt was to use a mix of Tamiya Dark Green A gloss coat was applied and decals added. I then used oil
with some Dark Green 2 and JA green. Once this had dried I paints to enhance the shadow areas and borders of the model.
checked the reference photos and realized this was just too I first applied the oil. After drying for several minutes the excess
green and had no discernible brown tone to it. oil paint was removed the remainder blended in with the finish.
Unhappy with my first attempt at matching the colour, I
trialed several alternatives. I was finally satisfied
with a mix of Tamiya Khaki and NATO
Black in a ratio of around 20:5.
I noticed that depending on
lighting and
temperature
adjustments to
processing of images
the colour easily shifts
40
Once the oils had dried for a few days I

applied another coat of gloss. A black-
brown pin wash was applied to all the
deepest recesses. Some chipping was
added with thinned Vallejo black grey.
Lights and optics were first painted
silver and lear acrylics (blue and red)
were then painted as appropriate.
Tracks and remaining details were
brush painted. A coat of Vallejo matt
varnish was then applied and graphite
pencil was used on some of the edges
to give a worn metallic feel.
Rust coloured washes were applied to
the crew heater exhaust and around
some of the handles.
I have been using the ‘chipping’ method to create mud hull. I turned to enamels, in particular I used Wilder Brown
spattering and streaking lately. I like the effects that this Mud Effect to create the next amount of accumulation. I
technique creates and the reliability of it. I begin by applying would paint random blotches onto the surfaces. After drying, a
Vallejo chipping fluid to areas of interest, in this case the hull brush dampened with paint thinner was used to ‘push’ the
sides, front and rear as well as the very forward upper areas excess paint away and distribute the remainder over the
of the hull. After this has dried for about a half an hour a surface. The turret received the same treatment with the
thinned dirt coat of Tamiya Buff was applied. Once dry, a addition of rain streaks.
brush dampened with warm water was used to remove the The tracks were first dry brushed with Tamiya Flat Earth paint.
excess of the colour. On vertical surfaces this was drawn Mud coloured pigments were then rubbed on to create the
down to create streaks. On vertical surfaces and in tight areas dirt effect. The moisture stains around the tow pintles was
such as corners and road wheels a stippling created by mixing pigment with fluid effects and painting the
motion with the brush was used to create a mixture on carefully following reference.
spattered and uneven look to the dirt The addition of some pigments competed
accumulation. work on the M47E2.
I wanted to add dust and dirt accumulation to
the rest of the vehicle, but not in as heavy of
accumulation as the lower portions of the
41
It was enjoyable to build the penultimate M47.

The unexpected challenges of having to update
the suspension and build extra track links made
the build even more enjoyable and unique. The
Takom kit itself is a pleasure to build and even
though adaptions were needed, it was a great
starting point for a M47 E series versus the option
of overhauling the veteran Italeri offering.
42
43
new releases
KEEPING TRACK
MTVR, American Special

No.3031
Carl Schulze
Published by Tankograd
Soft back format, 64 pages, English
and German text
www.bookworldws.co.uk
Already available from Trumpeter and a new release on the cards throughout the World. The book covers a huge range of MTVR
this is a great time to stock-up on reference of the USMC’s versions with tipper trucks, cargo, armoured recce, tractor and
workhorse in it’s numerous guises. Tankograd’s popular visual extended bed amongst others. great modelling inspiration and
format is followed and there’s some excellent shots of the truck at reference especially for colour schemes and weathering.
work with a great selection of colour schemes operating
Leopard 2A6 No. 5070 in Tankograd’s series takes a look at up and walk-around style photographs and
Development, the technical aspects of the Leopard 2A6 and factory-style diagrams providing the modeller
description, technology starts by detailing the series of upgrade with invaluable reference in an easily accessed
Ralph Zwilling programs and then chapters broken into format. Images of disassembled hulls, turrets
Published by Tankograd subject areas such as electrical system, removed and empty engine bays are all here
Soft back format, 80 pages, English heating system, power pack… pretty much making this an inexpensive and essential read
and German text everything inside and out. Alongside the for Leopard modellers.
www.bookworldws.co.uk detailed text is an excellent selection of close-
Leopard 2A6 In action An ideal companion to 5070 is 5071 with some differences between the ‘M’ and ‘M+’ and also
and variants fantastic action shots of the big cat and great what the future developments have in store.
Ralph Zwilling modelling subjects with additional exercise Crew functions and workstations also feature
Published by Tankograd camouflage and markings. Further reference is providing another highly informative piece of
46 Soft back format, 56 pages, English provided with 1:35 detailed plan drawings and Leopard literature.
and German text a very easily understood information on the
www.bookworldws.co.uk
Panzerkampftagen IV The first book of a batch of re-prints from

in combat Tankograd which tie-in nicely with some
Markus Zöllner recent kit releases (post-war British
Published by Tankograd subjects such as Chieftain and ’432), and
Soft back format, 80 pages, being quite partial to anything Panzer IV
English and German text related this collection of ‘in the field
www.bookworldws.co.uk images’ of the Wehrmacht’s workhorse is
very much worth a look if you missed it
first time around. The full spectrum from
A to J is covered with some very well
chosen images (many unfamiliar) with
detailed captions.
Our thanks to Bookworld for our
Tankograd samples.
Another set of re-prints which will be welcome to British post-war enthusiasts

BAOR British Infantry
with the ‘Early Years’ covering vehicles from 1945 to 1979 and the ‘Final
The early years/ Brigade, Berlin
Years’ dealing with 1980 to 1994. A great selection of images and vehicles
The Late Years
are covered in each book with soft-skins, armour and engineering vehicles
Peter Blume Andreas Kirchhoff
with detailed captions and descriptions of BAOR organisation and
Published by Tankograd Published by Tankograd
deployment over the years. Another popular modelling subject is vehicles in
Soft back format, 64 pages, Soft back format, 64 pages,
the fetching ‘Berlin’ urban camo scheme, everything you might need to know
English and German text English and German text
is covered within with a great selection of photographs and plans of the
www.bookworldws.co.uk www.bookworldws.co.uk
colour schemes. All three of these re-releases are recommended to any fans
of British vehicles of the period.
Eduard The guys at Eduard often take a break from their 36358 is for the IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S with lots
aircraft upgrades and produce some very nice AFV of useful fine detail as has set 36359 for Tamiya’s new
subjects. A couple of photoetch sets have been Valentine which also includes full mudguards / fenders.
released to suit kits which we’ve featured recently.
AMMO of Mig
A couple of diorama products from
Ammo in giant 250ml tubs; 2204 is
an acrylic water effect ‘Slow River
Water’ and 2105 acrylic mud ‘Muddy
Ground’. The water has a green cast
to it and can be poured straight from
the tub, the consistency is such that
ripples could be formed as it dries
although it is designed to self-level.
We found this to dry pretty quickly
with a high gloss sheen and could
see it working well built in thin(ish)
layers. One of a range of earth
textures is this ‘Muddy Ground’ mix
which, as you can see, represents
heavy wet mud very well with various
depths of textures and a convincing
sheen. Very convenient and
economical products with pleasing 47
results, find the full range at
www.migjimenez.com
A new line from SABOT here with No.1 in

their ‘Foto File’ which looks as if it will
evolve into monographs of unpublished
images providing some nice reference.
The Krupp Protze with it’s distinctive
appearance and big 4 cylinder boxer
engine must have been considered well
ahead of it’s time and has been a popular
modelling subject (Bronco in fact ready to
release a series of new kits). The quality of
the images is varied but all included
because of obvious interest and rarity
covering three versions; standard troop
transporter, 37mm PaK transport and
searchlight transport unit. Some great
Krupp Protze and variants images provide modelling inspiration and
Published by SABOT probably difficult due to the original
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, source, but it would have been nice to
Pearce Browning have at least some of the photos
Softback format 46 pages captioned.
ISBN 9781947552005
www.sabotpub.com
Straight into number 2 ‘Foto File’ with a

look at the ‘Standard Diesel’ German lorry
which was produced by nine companies
with production beginning in 1934 only the
three axle version (from a 2,3 and 4 axle
design) seeing production of over 14,000
units and serving long into WWII after
production stopped in 1940. As the Krupp
Protze images, quality varies and they’re
void of any captions but all the images are
previously unpublished with the field
kitchen and radio truck featured along with
the standard cargo truck. These first two
books will be welcome reference for
German soft-skin modellers and
Einheitsdiesel enthusiasts and a nice change from the
Published by SABOT usual ‘big-cat’ armour subjects. Available
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, from SABOT direct or specialist book and
Pearce Browning hobby stockists Worldwide.
Softback format 46 pages
ISBN 9781947552012
www.sabotpub.com
M1A1 SA in Iraqi
Service
Published by SABOT
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants,
Pearce Browning
Softback format 65 pages plus
decals
ISBN 9781947552012
This is the fourth Abrams-focussed release in SABOT’s photo mesh stand-off armour. We also have a selection of colour
reference series with more for fans of the Abrams. These Iraqi profiles and some very welcome 1:35 decals by the masters at
M1A1s have a hard life and make great weathering subjects for Cartograf to represent the featured vehicles. Quite niche but
modellers with this collection of images proving the point with offering a unique reference for these vehicles and certainly a nice
48 ideal reference with overall action shots and walk-around style change from the usual M1 subjects with plenty of weathering
close ups included especially of the unique features such as the potential as the book shows.
Fallen Giants
The Combat Debut of
the T-35A Tank
Francis Pulham
Published by Fonthill Media
Softback format, 143 pages
ISBN 9781781556269
www.fonthillmedia.com
The five-turreted beast that was the T-35 may have looked number of the vehicles with production numbers which are cross-
impressive in the Soviet military parades but quickly showed itself referenced with maps giving a unique insight to these monsters. A
to be outdated on the battlefield as it tried to hold it’s own against chapter details the armour that served alongside the T-35s and a
the German invaders. This new book doesn’t look to detail the final review of their combat performance along with some
technical side of the T-35 but it’s demise on the battlefields of the attractive colour profiles. Essential reading for any modeller of
Eastern front documented (largely) by German troops with some Soviet armour which certainly had us digging out the recent
fascinating images. The author has managed to identify a large Zvezda kit!
T-60 Small Tank and

Variants
James Kinnear and Yuri Pasholok
Published by Canfora
Hardback format 176 pages
ISBN 9789198232561
www.canfora.se
This is the first in a new series from Sweden's Canfora, 'Red translated quotes from Soviet manuals and official documents
Machines' will focus on Soviet armour and in this case the with some tales of heroic combat involving the T-60. A
diminutive T-60 (very timely with MiniArt releasing a brand new comprehensive walk-around colour section will prove invaluable
kit!). Canfora's usual high quality design and production presents modelling reference. If your a fan of conversions a chapter
the information very nicely; this book is packed with period photos containing AA gun versions and 'Katyusha' rocket launcher
(both in the field and factory shots), original diagrams and amongst other quirky prototypes (including a winged glider T-60!) 49
illustrations, contemporary plan drawings and colour profiles. The should get you thinking. This series looks like it could be an
text is very informative whilst still being easy reading with absolute 'must' for Soviet armour enthusiasts.
E35-259
E35-256
E35-259 E35-258 E35-255
EA35-199
E.T. Model E35-260 E35-257
Great to receive a batch of new releases from China’s E.T. with pattern vents running along the hull. Also applicable is EA35-119
the quality consistent as always. In 1:16 are two sets of WWII which provides a late smoke candle rack for German subjects.
German tool clamps (a photoetch favourite!) J16-001 are early E35-260 is a big set to hike-up the Hobby Boss ZTZ-99A and also
versions and J16-002 late pattern. Still with German subjects are for Hobby Boss is E35-257 for the French VBL armoured car.
E35-256, basic detail set for Dragon’s StuG.IIIE and for the same Finally a nice upgrade including photoetched wheel spokes for the
kit are very nicely done fenders. E35-259 is a detail set for Meng’s little Peugeot 750 motorcycle included in Meng’s FT-17 crew and
Kingtiger which includes excellent tow cables and also for Meng is orderly set, E35-255 is the product code. See E.T.’s full range at
E35-258 designed for the Gepard and provides the correct square www.etmodeller.com
Aires
Held in high regard by aircraft modellers, Czech aftermarket aces a WWII period German tanker and 480190 a Modern Russian
50 Aires are producing some nice accessories for armour builders commander gesturing with a raised arm. Sculpting and casting of
and we’ve a few of their latest figures to look at. 480161 is a all three is superb.
seated Modern British driver to steer your Airfix Warrior, 480183 is
This new book from AMMO of Mig Jiménez markings and also more specialist
Panzer DNA gives a very good initial impression with nice information on troops’ ranks, zimmerit,
Daniele Guglielmi and Mario Pieri design and production. Generally speaking signalling and some handy tables of
Published by AMMO the authors appear to have set out to translation of the German terms and
hardback format, 139 pages produce a concise guide to replace the abbreviations to English. One interesting
ISBN 97884416949137 vintage ‘Panzer Colours’ volumes (for a long table is a price list of equipment from a
www.migjimenez.com time a valuable reference for German Luger to a Tiger! Colour illustrations and
armour modellers) and dispel the myths diagrams help to display the information
generated throughout the years by collating visually and although packed with period
the most relevant contemporary photographs, many in colour, most are the
information. The book is broken into very more commonly seen ones and image
manageable and accessible sections quality varies. A great up-to-date overview
covering unit composition, colours, of the topic from pre-war until 1945 if you
MK35
You can always rely on France’s MK35 for
characteristic civilian figures and here’s a
great quartet of railway (or any labouring
scenario for that matter) each comes with
an optional head (with or without protective
goggles) and the sculpting and casting is
excellent. Each figure could obviously work
individually or in groups and the new MiniArt
railway sets immediately spring to mind to
produce an instant vignette or diorama.
Now with over ninety civilian figures on offer,
MK35 are sure to have something to suit
your latest ideas. www.mk35.com
Vallejo
One of the pioneers of acrylic modelling
paints, Spain’s Vallejo, continue to expand
their offer of quality finishing products with
more additions to their AFV Colour Series.
Each set contains six 17ml ‘dropper’
bottles and the colours are ready to
airbrush with details and colour profiles
displayed on the packaging. 71.207 is a set
of German DAK colours, 71.209 are
modern U.S. desert colours (including
shading and highlight tones), 71.210 are
the much debated IDF colours from 1957
to date (including a primer and clear
varnish). Another much debated range of
colours are the British ‘Caunter’ colours
provided in set 71.211 and set 71.212 has
five tones of the MERDC U.S. Army pattern
plus a clear varnish. Finally a generic set
71.213 covers wheel and track tones with a
step by step guide. Still on top of their 51
game, catch up with all the latest products
and tutorials at www.acrylicosvallejo.com
The IDF’s adaptation and customisation of carpet system) and command vehicles with
it’s vehicles is best displayed surely by the an excellent mix of in-action images and
Pumas adapted as engineering vehicles detailed close-ups providing very usable all-
meaning some of the Shot-Cal tanks have round reference. A selection of CAD
served for almost sixty years! Due to this drawings will aid modellers even further with
fact of leading a hard life and lots of intricate enough information to allow some scratch-
Puma Heavy APC equipment they certainly make fantastic building of parts. Even if you’re not planning
Centurion based APC in IDF service Part 3 modelling subjects, hence this third volume on building one of these mean-machines in
Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien from the saviors of IDF modellers, Desert the near future the colour images are
Published by Desert Eagle Eagle. After the introduction to the Puma invaluable reference for weathering and
Softback format, 82 pages family the book splits into bridge system groundwork. All the quality we’ve come to
ISBN 978965 7700 068 vehicles, mine clearance (roller, ‘Viper’ and expect from Desert Eagle, superb reference.
www.deserteagle-publishing.com
Merkava Siman1- Part 1

Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien
Published by Desert Eagle
ISBN 978965 7700 075
www.deserteagle-publishing.com
The IDF Armor series continues at a pace with number 20, great have an excellent insight here to the power pack, suspension, and
news for modellers of IDF subjects. One of the World's most external details with the author's unrestricted access revealing
famous armoured vehicles in perhaps it's purest form? Merkava removed side skirts and 'live' maintenance. This release is just in
Mk1, with the usual Desert Eagle approach of quality large format time for the new Takom Mk1 or if you still have the classic Tamiya
colour images and detailed, knowledgable research resulting in kit, another essential addition to the library of any IDF modeller but
the perfect easy access modelling reference. As this is Part One beware; buy one Desert Eagle book and you'll want them all. Our
52 the chapters are a little more in depth with more to come in the thanks to www.aviationbookcentre.com for our sample copy.
next volume (such as the usual 'Man and Machine' feature) we
AF35-111
AF35-
A13
AF35-A11
AF35-
A10
Rochm
We’ve received some more of Rochm’s beautiful presented turret and AF35111 is a basic(!) set for Dragon’s Jagdtiger. A small
photoetched upgrade sets. The presentation and quality of the fret AF35 G05 provides delicate mesh screens for the engine deck
products really is superb with full colour photographic instructions for the Dragon kits. For the superb Meng Kingtiger we featured a
that would shame most high-end kit manufacturers. All of these couple of issues back is full detail set AF35A11. These sets really
samples are for the Kingtiger and Jagdtiger in 1:35; AF35A10 is a do offer the ultimate in detail and will leave you wanting for
full detail set for Dragon or Zvezda’s final production Henschel nothing. Full details at: www.rochmmodel.com
turret, AF35A13 is another full detail version for Dragon’s Porsche
Iwata
Some new products from the Iwata experts at The holder as well as a place to discharge any unwanted
Airbrush Company to enhance your airbrushing paint or cleaning fluid these certainly are a clean way
pleasure. Iwata Lube is special formulated to keep to work for your desk and the air around it. Another
moving parts of your ‘brush operating smoothly by very convenient accessory is a desk-edge holder to
maintaining it’s viscosity and is free from silicone accommodate two airbrushes safely, the base clamp
(something you don’t really want anywhere you’re looks like it would adapt to most work surfaces and the
painting). Something that I personally use and wouldn’t multi-posable holders include a fitting to 53
be without is a spray-out pot, doubling as an airbrush accommodate the spray-out pot.www.airbrushes.com
Dunkirk 1940, Through a

German Lens
Alan Ranger
Published by Mushroom Models
ISBN 9788365281722
www.mmpbooks.biz
Having enjoyed the experience of the recent ‘Dunkirk’ movie I did town and beaches littered with vehicles, equipment and ships.
feel one detail that was lacking was the sheer scale and There’s some excellent photographs with plenty of images for
destruction of the battle and evacuation. These previously modellers of Allied subjects to take reference from but generally
unpublished images presented in a photo-album style certainly the historical content and detailed captions make this an
give proof of that with over 200 shots taken by German troops of interesting read which is sure to prove popular with the recent
the advance to the town and the aftermath of the evacuation, the surge of interest. A very thought-provoking book.
The old-fashioned colouring book has Allied and German vehicles and aircraft
certainly made a come back of late, so if which, we have to admit, look like they
Operation Dynamo butterflies and country cottages don’t get could be a lot of fun. How long before
Colouring Book you excited maybe this will have you someone does aftermarket cardboard
Published by MMP Books / Stratus digging out your coloured pencils? Again, tracks and laser-cut paper detail sets?!
softback format, 32 pages latching onto the Dunkirk movie is this Something a little lighthearted from
ISBN 9788365281609 collection of stylized line drawings to Mushroom Model Productions.
www.mmpbooks.biz scribble away at with a good selection of
Panther Ausf. A/D/G

Published by MMP Books / Stratus
softback format, 32 pages
ISBN 9788365281609
www.mmpbooks.biz
Not so much a book as a set of plans in 1:72, 1:48,1:35 and 1:16
for Panther versions A, D and G with some generic balkencruz
masks included. The 1:16 plans are printed on quality A1 size fold-
out loose sheets but we feel they lack considerable detail at this
size (being enlargements of the smaller versions). One feature that
never disappoints with Kagero are the colour profiles which are
54 again, superb with a good choice of subject vehicles each with
some informative text.
1:35 Hong Model’s kit by Mark Neville
58
ZSU-23-4M/MZ
W
ell the saying goes you wait for 1:35 and I’ve often fancied building a
a bus and two turn up at once, Shilka based on images from one of the
in this case it was Shilkas. No recent global conflicts with a heavily
sooner had we received the fresh new weathered finish. I’ve shied away from the
1:35 kit from newcomers Hong Model and work involved bringing the vintage Dragon
Meng told us they would shortly be kit up to scratch so this seemed an ideal
releasing a ZSU-23. The rule still stands in opportunity for an out of the box project
the AFV Modeller studio that if you spend concentrating on weathering; shouldn’t
too much time looking through the take long to build should it? The detail and
contents of a kit you have to build it, as quality of moulding looked really good so I
we’ve already featured Meng’s offering I cleared the bench and cracked open a
thought we’d see how Hong’s kit fairs-up. bottle of Mr Cement...
This subject has been long overlooked in
59
The guns are an intricate and demanding

assembly but look good when finished, some may
The design of assembly is standard; lower hull wish to add firing cables and coolant hose but are
‘tub’ and large single piece upper hull. Things barely visible.
do start to get a little more complicated with The guns can elevate to the desired position freely
the turret and cannons. I found filler required on the until you fix the top cover (not in place here).
leading edges of both sides
due to a difficult fit.
Rear engine deck covers

require plenty of sanding and
Photoetch is good and
dry fits to obtain a good fit
fits well, what we’ve
come to expect included
in modern kits.
This edge
protruding
appears correct Separate relief
when compared detail parts
with reference. needed blending
in with some Mr
Surfacer here.
A retaining chain
should be present at
either end of these
fold-down flaps.
A large hole need drilling

for the radar unit. No
Idler wheels are a very
mention of this on the
sloppy fit; some
instructions and would be
packing required and
easier done from inside
plenty of drying time for
the turret roof before
the adhesive.
assembly.
Many turret fittings
require locating holes
that aren’t mentioned.
Transpose the part

numbers for the
suspension arms to the
opposite side!
I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual

links with two separate guide-horns per link? No
thanks. Masterclub produce some great resin and white
metal track sets. I struggled with the resin pins provided
so cut my own from 0.4mm brass rod. The tyres are a
snug fit between the guide horns, in hinesight a little
sanding of the tyre’s back edge would have helped.
60
The driver’s hatch is a separate

assembly with internal detail
allowing the option of posing it
open, no internal driver’s position
parts are offered though.
Tow fittings left an unusual

champhered gap around their base, I These parts are wooden in reality, a couple of swipes with a
used Magic Sculpt putty to create the razor saw blade added a convincing grain texture.
heavy weld seams seen in reference The upper hull isn’t glued in place at this point; a little
images. sanding of the edges under the sponsons made for a better
I won’t go into any details about the ZSU- comprehensive and accurate when copper cable). The kit tracks; I just
23, (Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka compared to reference images (a good couldn’t face assembling or cleaning up
/ self propelled anti-aircraft system) I place to look is three tiny parts per link, the detail is good
don’t really know a great deal but I just http://www.primeportal.net and our very and I have seen them assembled by
love the way they look and if you’ve seen own back issue 81 with a reworked braver souls than me to good effect. We
any movie footage of them you realise version of Dragon’s old kit). Clear parts tracked(!) down a set of the Masterclub
what a formidable weapon they can be are provided for the vision blocks and white metal versions (resin are also
against air and ground targets with those optic parts and a nice little photoetched available) and very nice they are too, with
23mm auto cannons. This is all about the fret ads some welcome finesse. Decals the realism you get from the ‘sit’ of metal
kit, which, to be honest, is a real mixed provide a good selection of versions from links hard to beat.
bag and a bit of a pig to build at times. Eastern Block countries to more modern
As a general overview I’d say the Gulf War examples all presented nicely We shouldn’t forget this is Hong’s first kit,
instructions are riddled with mistakes on a colour fold-out sheet. none of the challenges it throws at you
(wrong numbered parts, location holes I’ve deliberately held off adding any of the take a great deal of correction, they’re
required without mention) and location missing small details to show exactly mainly frustrating and slow you down
points either too large or too small and what comes from the kit, but they are such as wrongly numbered parts and
some sloppy fit in places...but...it’s not all quite minor; some wiring of the radar unit poor location points but this kind of adds
bad. The presentation of the kit is nice and marker lights and a clamp on the to the satisfaction of seeing the finished
and the moulding sharp and clean with a front glassis for the tow cable (which I model on the bench ready for paint.
high level of detail which is pretty haven’t fitted but is supplied as a soft
61
I primed the Shilka with Mr Finishing Surfacer black which not only serves as water based gouache for many years with good results. The colours above
an excellent base coat but a pre-shade. Over this I applied the base green (cadmium red, cadmium yellow, lamp black and zinc white) are all I ever use
(AK’s Russian Green oversprayed with some transparent blue ink in places) for various tones. You can return to your pallet and re-work the dry paint with
and sand camo allowing the black to show through in shaded areas. water at a later date.
Although there are many ‘out of the bottle’ effects to create dust I’ve used
I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky

consistency) but to do this you need a very matt
base coat. This is then manipulated with a wet or
moistened paintbrush (using water) and allowed to
wash and accumulate as dust would and drying to a
very matt and chalky finish. The lower hull received a
much heavier coat with a less diluted mixture. I was
working closely to some colour reference images of
ex-Syrian Army vehicles where the dust had a slight
pink cast to it which I exaggerated knowing this
would tone down with the subsequent processes.
The next step was a filter of heavily diluted (enamel thinner) yellow ochre
oil paint. Working on small sections or panels dampened with the mix this
helps harmonise the colours and while still damp is a good surface to Here we can see the effects of the gouache, filters and washes taking
apply pin washes to. The washes are done with burnt umber and black oil shape. Note the scratches and scuffs in the dirt through to the base
colours and start to give depth to the details. A benefit of using the water colours, a damp cocktail stick easily achieves this touch of realism.
based gouache is that it isn’t affected by enamel thinners and can be My reference showed some damp areas accumulated on the front glacis
worked over very quickly. which were replicated with less diluted washes.
I worked round each section with the same techniques. I find breaking a The kit’s wheels are nicely detailed with various washes enhancing the
model into sections for the main weathering and shading processes contrasts. The layers of effects can be seen on the side of the hull, note
allows experimentation as you go, if something doesn’t go to plan it’s also the dirt splashing and splatters created by loading a brush with the
62 easier to rectify a single section than the whole model! gouache and blowing a shot of air through it with the airbrush.
Before placing the stowage I added some gloss varnish under where the oil barrel My final steps of wear and tear involve adding some bare metal
would be placed to represent spilled diesel. effects to selected edges and areas of high wear. A Micro-Brush
and graphite powder was used to give a subtle sheen.
A graphite stick (or a soft pencil works equally Back to the graphite powder (Ushi Van Der Lifecolor’s ‘European Asphalt’ I find is a good match
well) picks out areas of highest wear such as Rosten’s ‘Iron’ was used in this case) to highlight for old rubber on the road wheels, these were easy to
hatches, crew access and handles. The the running contact surface of the tracks. paint by pulling the track to one side. I final dusting in
handles on the rear deck are a little chunky The tracks were painted in place as the dust tones select areas with pigment powder (a mixture of Brick
and may be better replaced with finer brass needed to match the rest of the lower hull plus I Dust and Light Earth) and we’re almost done with
rod. find I always hit snags fitting painted tracks to a weathering and ready to detail paint the tools and add
finished model. the stowage.
Gun barrels also received the polishing powder

treatment and I buffed some areas of the turret
with my finger which gives a very slight sheen to
areas where the dust would be brushed away by
the crew. Now all that’s left to do is place the
stowage, figure and sort the light lenses.
After watching the Editor’s progress on

his 1:16 Panzer crew I was inspired to
have a bash at my own figure. Starting
with one of our own mannequins
(available from mengafvmodeller.com in
1:35 and 1:16) he’s not bad for a first
attempt and hopefully places the Shilka in
the Syrian conflict. I also now have the
upmost respect for figure sculptors!
63
Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up

with the stowage. The resin oil barrel is from an old MiG
Productions set and the carpet from the excellent
Reality in Scale range which is printed on a flock
material. The water bottles are from Meng and the
discarded shirt made from Magic Sculpt.
64
So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from

(we featured the Meng kit in issue 90). This kit from
Hong is for a modeller with some experience who can
handle mistakes on the instructions with some tricky fit
and position of parts. Ultimately I’m happy with the look
of the finished model, the detail is good, in fact
excellent in places and the kit should rate as a very
commendable first effort from Hong.
65

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Issue 97 Cover.

qxp_Issue 26 cover 06/10/2017 11:55 Page 1

THE END IS NEAR

10 The End is Near

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by

Editor and Designer: David Parker

The key to any diorama

With the presence of round strikes

WHEN Trumpeter announced a 1/16 scale

The Kit The Build

Following the directions for the most part but

• Aber fire extinguisher was added

New woven mesh

At this point it was time to modify the Base

AK’s new 2-part resin water kit was used to build up a

bulk to the bottom of their jackets were they sat on the

This was a fun overall project and I was pretty happy

WHEN I stumbled across the excellent book “Sturmgeschützbrigade

Nice resin casts from Legend

With the initial weathering done I

One big challenge for me was the

Disaster strikes as I managed to knock the model

Additionally paper leaves from Plusmodel and

The last important element I wanted to add were the crew

The internal floor could now be glued in place and I

I used my own tool made from brass tube to texture

Another feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the

The distinctive feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the Rh105-30

Once the oils had dried for a few days I

It was enjoyable to build the penultimate M47.

MTVR, American Special

Panzerkampftagen IV The first book of a batch of re-prints from

Another set of re-prints which will be welcome to British post-war enthusiasts

A new line from SABOT here with No.1 in

Straight into number 2 ‘Foto File’ with a

T-60 Small Tank and

E35-259 E35-258 E35-255

E.T. Model E35-260 E35-257

Merkava Siman1- Part 1

Dunkirk 1940, Through a

Panther Ausf. A/D/G

1:35 Hong Model’s kit by Mark Neville

The guns are an intricate and demanding

Rear engine deck covers

A large hole need drilling

Transpose the part

I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual

The driver’s hatch is a separate

Tow fittings left an unusual

I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky

Gun barrels also received the polishing powder

After watching the Editor’s progress on

Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up

So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from

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