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A short perspective document on
the cosmetics retail sector
Published in July 2017
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Contents
03 05 06 07 08 10
Summary History at Evolution of Evolution of Key growth Cosmetics Industry
a glance cosmetics retail channels drivers market size, growth
industry in India & channel split
11 12 14 15 16 17
Cosmetics Cosmetics Pecking order Evolution of Future prospects Key takeaways for
Industry market Industry: of brands alternate channels: of cosmetics brands & retailers
size: category and Segmentation Online cosmetics industry
subcategory wise market
18 29
Appendix Glossary
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Summary (1/2)
An overview of Cosmetics industry and its market size
The Indian cosmetics industry is majorly categorised into skin care, hair care, oral care, fragrances, and colour cosmetics
segments. It currently has an overall market standing of USD 6.5 billion and is expected to grow to ~ USD 20bn by 2025
with a CAGR of 25%. In comparison, the global cosmetics market is growing steadily at 4.3% CAGR and will reach ~USD 450
billion 2025. This means that by 2025, India will constitute 5% of the total global cosmetics market and become one of the
top 5 global markets by revenue.
With the improving purchasing power, demand for enhanced products and increasing image consciousness of the Indian
clientele, many international brands started establishing footprints in India – among them are Mac Cosmetics, Avon, Estée
Lauder, L’Oreal, and Willa professionals - across various retail formats. By 2020, a pool of luxury brands such as Labiocos,
Bodyography, and Victoria secret are expected to clamour for the Indian consumer wallet and mindshare. Social media &
favourable demographics are playing an important role in spreading awareness about cosmetics products and developing
fashion consciousness, not only in metros but also in tier-1 & 2 cities. This is a golden opportunity for many cosmetics
companies to expand beyond the top-8 cities and generate handsome revenue from all across the country.
Coupled with multiple other factors, herbal cosmetics products are driving growth due to increasing adoption, and the
segment alone is expected to grow at 15%, as people become more aware of the possible perils in consistently using
chemical formulations switch to ‘safer’ herbal and Ayurvedic products like Himalaya, Biotique, Dabur, Lotus, Patanjali, etc..
Many Indian & international brands have been trying to seize the established player position in this segment by launching
multiple products across categories. With rising demand, luxury and super luxury brands such as Shahnaz Hussain, Forest
Essentials and Kama Ayurveda have also launched products in this space.
The herbal brands are not only catering to the domestic market but also expanding to overseas market - the export recorded
for FY 2015-16 was approximately USD 0.093mn and is expected to grow at a 20% CAGR.
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Summary (2/2)
Alternative channel: online cosmetics maket
With the increasing internet penetration, online market has seen a rapid growth in last 3-4 years, along with horizontal
players like Flipkart, Amazon adding this category as a key focus area. The online cosmetics market, valued at USD 50 mn,
is 2% of the total Indian cosmetics market. This category has attracted a few vertical specialists like Nykaa, Purplle, etc.
who are riding on increasing e-tailing growth and vying for a significant pie in online cosmetics space. Nykaa, a vertical
online market place started in 2012, offers more than 600 brands in both offline and online stores. It recorded a total sale of
USD 43 million in 2016, out of which offline stores contribute 5%. Nykaa, as part of its future expansion strategy, plans to
increase its offline footprint by establishing 35 stores pan-India and targets a yearly sale of over USD 155 mn by 2025.
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History at a glance
Indians have had a Past generations used home/backyard products like turmeric, sandalwood paste, Owing to increased demand, a large number of local
long heritage of using lemon and aloevera gel for beautification and personal care which lost their charm as well as international manufacturers like Lakme,
cosmetics and beauty in the advent of chemical formulations. They are making a comeback especially in Loreal, Shahnaz, Mac, Oriflame etc. have gradually
products. the premium segments which market a chemical-free beauty routine. extended their product range pan-India.
1 3 5
2 4 6
Aesthetic makeup products, used since the olden days, have Indian homegrown cosmetics companies,
The cosmetics industry has become a force
helped India fast-track its race to the position of the largest especially herbal brands such as
to reckon with, after the 1991 liberalization
cosmetics consuming country in the world. By 2020, the Himalaya, Forest Essentials, Juicy
and the victories of many Indian women in
cosmetics consumption in India will be 5% of total world Chemistry and Patanjali, are also
international beauty pageants,.
cosmetics consumption. establishing their overseas footprints.
The pervasion of social media is playing an important role in spreading awareness about cosmetics products, making consumers aware of reviews and establishing trends.
It has become a norm for cosmetics companies and multibrand aggregators to have a strong social media presence.
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Evolution of cosmetics industry in India
Lakme, owned by Unilever, founded in 1952 Colorbar, founded in 2004, known for bright Sephora, French cosmetics chain founded in
having USP in budget friendly product &speciality peppy colours and has a number of products to 1969,offers beauty products including skincare,
in eyeconic kajal add colour to nails, eyes, lips and face fragrance and hair care.
Lotus, a herbal brand founded in 1993, focusing on Forest essentials, specialized in herbal skin care Labiocos, a swiss brand having usp in pure
the use of herbal products& packaging design products natural products
Himalaya was founded in the year 1930, having Oriflame, launched in 2009, provides natural
USP in face wash ‘Purifying Neem’. Swedish products
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Evolution of retail channels in India
Product launched and reached to the customer via
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Key growth drivers (1/2)
Growing generation
Increasing adoption of Increasing footprints of
continue to aspire for
western culture overseas brands
better standard of living
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Key growth drivers (2/2)
Cosmetics trials increases consumption Increasing penetration of channels Adoption of natural products
Increased awareness of
Increase in number of
Providing beauty trainings the long term harm from
exclusive brand outlets,
to staffs, store manager using chemicals in beauty
malls, supermarkets
products
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Cosmetics Industry market size, growth & channel split
Cosmetics market Size, USD bn Organized vs. Unorganized market (2016-17)
20 2%
CAGR 5%
25.21% 23% 2% Online
Division of Organised
organised 6% Unorganised
CAGR
6.5 Direct selling
market Salons
LSFs
16.72%
75% 23% Brand Outlets
3 10%
(EBOs/MBOs)
Organised, 25%
The size of India’s cosmetics market will touch $20 billion The unorganized channel caters 75% of total cosmetics
by 2025 from the current level of $6.5 billion, growing with market, and pushes products from mass positioned brands
a CAGR of 16.72 % over a period of five years, and it is like Lakme, Loreal, Patanjali, Himalaya etc. They keep
expected to grow @ 25% for next 5 years. inventory of the price not more than 1000 per product.
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Cosmetics Industry market size: Category and subcategory wise
Key Insights
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Cosmetics Industry: Segmentation (1/2)
Cosmetics Industry
Category-Wise Channel-Wise Gender-Wise
Oral Care Fragrances women Men
1.74 0.47 60% 40%
Channel Split
Color Market
75%
23%
2%
Share
Market Size
in USD 0.16
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Cosmetics Industry: Segmentation (2/2)
India skin care market is India hair care market is Fragrance market is divided into Color cosmetics market consists India oral care market is
segmented into five categories segmented into four categories two segments viz. Perfumes of four broad categories according segmented into five categories
such as facial care, body care, sun such as hair oil, hair shampoo, hair &Deodorants. The fragrance to their products viz. Eye Makeup, such as toothpaste, toothbrush,
care, hand care and other makeup colors and hair styling products. market in India is one of the Facial Makeup, Lip Products and toothpowder, mouthwash and
removal & depilatory products. Hair care products are among the largest in terms of production, Nail Products. other oral care products that
Facial care products dominate highest penetration categories consumption, import and is in The market for colour cosmetics include dental floss, oral care
the market along with its various within beauty and personal care the process of taking off as more is only expected to increase in the chewing gum, etc.
variants. in India, and are expected to youngsters wear a fragrance in the future, as people grow more image
continue to perform positively in form of perfumes and deodorants. conscious, and social media acts as
the years to come. a messenger of beauty trends from
around the world.
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It has the following leading brands for each of the 5 segments…
Color Cosmetics
Hair Care Products Oral Care Products Skin Care Products Fragrance Products
Products
Market leader Market leader Market leader Market leader Market leader
Marico Colgate-Palmolive HUL Vini Cosmetics HUL
Leading Brands Leading Brands Leading Brands Leading Brands Leading Brands
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Evolution of alternate channels: Online cosmetics market
India has witnessed income growth of about 10% YOY, enabling large sections of its population to move up the consumption, fashion and lifestyle pyramid.
This had naturally driven demand for organised retail space as opposed of traditional stores. The online market place that has emerged in India a decade ago,
increases its penetration among consumers via innovative promotion and advertising strategies.
Online penetration of cosmetics is lower than Clear leaders are yet to emerge in the market
all key online categories except broader FMCG but Amazon is well positioned
Overall Retail Market Share of online
Categories 2+%
Size USD Bn (2016) sales (2016) Online
USD ~150 Mn
Offline The online cosmetics market sees a close
Mobiles 26 fight between the likes of horizontals like
Amazon and Flipkart with the likes of Nykaa,
Bigbasket and other following close behind
Fashion 1001
98% USD 6.35 Bn
Large
Appliances
102 However, Amazon’s strong offerings
in the on-demand FMCG market e.g.
Amazon Now and Amazon Pantry gives
Furniture
and Home
30 them a clear advantage
FMCG and
Grocery
450
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Future prospects of cosmetics industry
Increasing Innovative
1 2 Factors fuelling 3 Influx of 4 5
Market Size demand of distribution &
growth brands
herbal products marketing strategies
• India’s beauty, cosmetics • Rise in disposable • Several international • Region with most High influence
and grooming market income of middle class brands opening or demand will be of bloggers
will reach $ 20 billion by families planning to open Southern India in future, on consumer
2025 exclusive stores over due to a pre existing trends
• Growing aspirations of
next 3 years inclination to herbals.
• Market share of people to live good life Cross-Border
organised:unorganised and look good • Existing brands are • Export potential is E-Commerce:
will be 45:55 by 2025 expanding their reach also increasing. The New Channel
• Reaching the rural
from the current ratio of into tier 2 and 3 export data for herbal for Foreign
population with
25:75. cities too, due to the cosmetics brands for FY Brands
improvement in
increased demand 2015-16 is approx USD
• The online marketplace infrastructure Adding
0.093 mn.
share will increase by facilities like
8% from current value beauty tip,
of 2% treatment, trail
makeup and
salons
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Key takeaways for brands & retailers
Customer ever increasing aspirations &
With the rise in disposable Current economic & political scenario
affordability in Tier-2+ towns combined with
income and growing aspiration gives a solid opportunity to International
constraints of organized brick & mortar retail,
to look good, consumer demand brands to increase customer touch points
throws an opportunity for online majors to
for more brands & categories is as well as establishing their footprints in
shift their focus on cosmetics industry and new
at an all time high next potential markets
vertical players like Nykaa & Purplle will emerge
1 3 5
2 4
Low penetration of organized Both for online & offline retailers
market, is an opportunity for brands (especially malls), growth in
for expansion of EBOs & SIS with fashion is tapering and their
LSFs with a focus on salon cum trial focus would shift to this high
concepts to increase adoption growth potential category
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Appendix
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International cosmetics brands (1/2)
Positioning Cosmetics Brand Origin USP Store in India Revenue in USD (2015/2016)
Elizabeth Arden America Innovative products Mumbai 966.73 mn
Estee Lauder New York Skin care, makeup, fragrance Mumbai, Gurgaon, New 11.26 bn
Luxury and hair care products Delhi
Chanel Paris, France Luxury around the world New Delhi 7.3 bn
Clarins France Serum, Toning oil , Exclusive malls 2 bn
restorative day cream
Clinique New York Skin care products Mumbai Parent company : Estee lauder,
Super premium revenue shown above
SmashBox Culver city, Lipstick and eye products Available at Cosmetics Parent company : Estee lauder,
California E-commerce portal revenue shown above
Mac Toronto, Canada Easy to use Metro, next top 11 cities Parent company : Estee lauder,
revenue shown above
Faces Canada Canada Mumbai 0.01 bn
Olay United States Foaming Cleanser PAN India 2.5 bn
The Body Shop London Exclusive Malls 0.36 bn
Premivum
Bourjois France Velvet lipstick Exclusive Malls Parent Company Coty.inc,
revenue – 4.34 bn
Ponds European Union Skin Cream PAN India Subsidiary company Lakme lever
limited revenue shown above
Nivea European Union Skin care creams PAN India 6.37 bn (global revenue)
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International cosmetics brands (2/2)
Positioning Cosmetics Brand Origin USP Store in India Revenue in USD (2015/2016)
Lancome France Perfumes Exclusive Malls Parent company: L'Oreal, revenue
Luxury shown below
Schwarzkopf Hair care Available at Cosmetics 4.2 bn
E-commerce portal
Super premium Chambor Geneva Known for makeup products PAN India N/A
Matrix France Hair care products Exclusive Malls Parent company: L'Oreal, revenue
shown below
Revlon New York Comparatively expensive PAN India 2.34 bn
Rimmel London London Wide range of lipsticks Metro cities Parent Company Coty.inc,
revenue – 4.34 bn
Premivum Maybelline New York Low price PAN India 51.8 mn
Neutrogena California, Face washes PAN India N/A
London
Loreal France Hair shampoo PAN India 7.71 bn
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Indian cosmetics brands
Positioning Cosmetics Brand Origin USP Store in India Total global revenue (in USD) for
FY 2015 - 2016)
Colorbar India Matte Lipstick Mumbai, New Delhi 0.04 bn
Cosmetics
Luxury Forest Essentials India Skin care Mumbai, Delhi 3.5 mn
Shahnaz Hussain India Anti-ageing treatments, PAN India 97.74 mn
Ayurvedic kajal
Lakme India Budget Friendly Product PAN India 2.29 bn
Super premium Elle 18 India Young Girls, Budget PAN India Subsidiary company Lakme lever
friendly products limited revenue shown above
VLCC India Skin care products PAN India 0.12 bn
Sunsilk India Hair care PAN India Subsidiary company Lakme lever
Premium limited revenue shown above
Natures India PAN India N/A
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Ayurvedic brands
Positioning Cosmetics Brand Origin USP Store in India Total global revenue (in USD) for
FY 2015 - 2016)
Kama Ayurveda India High price PAN India N/A
Super premium Just Herbs India Organic Products, low PAN India N/A
price
Premium Aroma Magic India Spa, Skin care products PAN India N/A
Jovees India Sun Screen lotion PAN India N/A
Khadi Naturals India Hair Oil PAN India 0.23 bn
Lotus Herbal India Skin care PAN India 1.7 mn
Mass Emami Limited India Health care products PAN India 0.37 bn
Himalaya India Face wash PAN India N/A
Herbals
Biotique India Budget friendly products PAN India N/A
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Direct selling cosmetics brands
Positioning Cosmetics Brand Origin USP Store in India Total global revenue (in USD) for
FY 2015 - 2016)
Mary Kay Texas All Services offered Thru agents 4 bn
Super premium by trained beauty
consultants
Avon New York Direct Selling Thru agents 5.7 bn
Artistry Access Business Use Unusual Fruits and Mumbai N/A
Premium Group Plant to produce the
product
Oriflame Sweden High-quality Ingredients Thru agents 1.35 bn
Amway United States Health care Thru agents 8.8 bn
Mass
NuSkin United States Anti-Aging products Thru agents 2.21 bn
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Case Study: Estee Lauder
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Case Study: Lakme
Business Size
Marketing
Strategy Place
Market Size & USD ~1.32 billion with 17.7% market share in color cosmetics Presence in every
Strong social media
share marketing, fashion corner of the country,
CAGR Growing @ 17% week events, strong selling products via
presence in PAN supermarkets, brand
India makes it largest outlets, departmental
cosmetics brand in stores, salons
Future prospects India
Distribution
Future growth & Expected to grow @ 5% by 2020
and marketing
CAGR strategies
Price
Future expansion Mumbai, Gurgaon, New Delhi, Bengaluru, Chennai Budget friendly pricing
strategy strategy, the major
Target customer consumed product
Awards/ latest news It is designed for
premium segment
i.e. lipstick price
range is between
customers 200-500. While the
Latest awards Lakmé Salon bagged the ‘National Salon Chain of The Year’ international brands
award at the Indian Salon & Wellness Awards 2016 Brand positioning priced over 500
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Case Study: Patanjali
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Case Study: Oriflame
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Case Study: Nykaa
Strategy Place
Market Size & NR 280 crore Strong presence over digital
Ship products to more
share marketing, especially content
marketing which increases than 1000 cities via
CAGR 30% annual growth 50K visitors per month. Video
guidance via you tube channel
online portal and retail
“Nykaa TV”, presence over shop at New Delhi
social media sites and beauty airport and Mumbai
guidance by Nykaa experts infiniti mall
Future prospects Distribution
Future growth & Targeted 1,000 crore by 2020
and marketing
CAGR strategies
Future expansion Expanding product range under its private label. Planning to
strategy establish offline store in Mumbai, Delhi and Bengaluru Target customer Price
Premium to luxury Seasonal offers,
segment customers discounts on branded
of age between products
22-35
Awards/ latest news
Latest awards Hosted a Mother’s day activity at JCB salon, Mumbai Brand positioning
Your Beauty Our
Passion
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Glossary
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About author
Shubham Anand
Head Retail-CPG practice
shubham@redseerconsulting.com
Shubham Anand is heading Retail-CPG practice at RedSeer and working with clients across
fashion, retail and other CPG verticals on Growth, Market Entry & Store Roll-out Strategy.
He is also working with PE & VC funds to help them with sector scanning and their portfolio
growth. Shubham has an overall work experience of 12 years across Management Consulting,
Strategy, Marketing, P&L, etc. He has done his MBA from IIM Lucknow.
About RedSeer
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