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GREY

ROOM

OPERATIONS

SUBJECT :- DYEING AND PRINTING.

ASSIGNMENT - 1

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SUBMITTED BY
ASHISH KUMAR
ANNEPU- 6
VAIBHAV -26
DFT – SEMESTER (V)
NIFT HYDERABAD

INDEX

TOPIC PAGE NUMBER


WET PROCESSING 3-6
INTRODUCTION AND
PREPERATORY PROCESSES
GREY ROOM OPERATIONS 7-19
CASE 1- SANGHI TEXTILES 20-30
CASE 2- WELSPUN INDIA 31-42
CASE 3 – ALPS INDUSTRIES 43-50
CONCLUSION 51
BIBLIOGRAPHY 52

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WET PROCESSING

The Wet processing of the textile industry covers all the processes on a
textile that involve some form of wet or chemical treatment. It is the
chemical nature of the wet processing, that distinguishes it from the other
sectors of the textile industry such as yarn, fabric and garment
production.

There are mainly two types of wet processes used to increase the
asthetic features of the fabric:
• Dyeing
• Printing

Dyeing is the process of imparting colours to a textile material in loose


fibre, yarn, cloth or garment form by treatment with a dye.

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite


patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the
fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to
dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered
with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain
parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

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The basic operations concerning the wet processing are:
• PREPARATION
• COLOURATION
• FINISHING PROCESSES.

Preperatory processes exist to ensure that the textile has the right
physical and chemical properties for it to be coloured or finished.
Preparation processes are used to remove impurities (fats, waxes, sizes,
spinning lubricants etc.,) from natural fibres and any added substances
from earlier stages of processing, If dyestuffs/finishes need to be applied,
impurities must be removed first.

Preparation of Cellulosic fabrics

SINGEING

DESIZING

SCOURING

BLEACHING

MERCERIZING

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• Shearing and cropping removes fibres and loose yarns of up to
8cm are cut from the surface of the fabric.
• Surface hair removal is the first stage in a preparation sequence and
can be carried out by the process of Singeing.
• Sizes are applied to the warp yarns of woven fabrics to assist the
weaving process and must be removed prior to dyeing or printing by
a process known as Desizing.
• Scouring removes water-soluble impurities, waxes and fats and
soiling. It partially removes vegetable matter and has little effect on
any natural colouring matter that may be present in the fibre.
Removal of these impurities greatly improves the absorbency of the
fibre, which is essential if dyeing and printing are to be successful.
• Bleaching converts natural colorants to colorless products and
helps to breakdown any remaining vegetable matter.The bleaching
of cellulosic fibres is done with oxidizing agents, usually one or two
among Sodium hypochlorite, Hydrogen peroxide, Sodium chlorite
and Calcium hypo chlorite.
• Mercerization is a preparation process, which is only applicable to
cellulosic fibres and cotton in particular. Mercerization swells
cellulosic fibres, making the fibre more lustrous, stronger, giving it a
greater capacity to accept dye, more absorbency; a softer handle
and making it more extensible. Mercerization can improve the

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appearance of cotton fabric with a high percentage of immature
fibres by the increased luster and dye acceptance.

Preparation of Wool fabrics

• Carbonizing is treating the wool with a strong acid to remove


remaining vegetable impurity and is carried out off loose stock or
piece. As a final step, the goods must be neutralized and rinsed.
• Felting is the tendency of the fibres to form matted entanglements
such that a woven fabric, for eg, wool fabrics can become so matted
that the warp and weft yarns are no longer visible. The result is a
fabric which is apparently composed entirely of an entangled web of
fibres and the fabric is referred to as a felt.
• Milling is the process of deliberately felting wool goods to achieve
the effects of felting.
• Wool fabrics are given a temporary set during either a crabbing
(passing the fabric through hot water) or blowing (using stream).

Preparation of silk fabrics

• The process of removing gum from silk is known as Degumming or


Boiling off. The common method of removing gum from raw silk is
treating it in a hot solution or neutral soap, which is the best
degumming agent.

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Preparation of man –made fiber fabrics

• A fabric can be exposed to dry heat or steam at a temperature


above the softening temperature while being held flat and to a
particular width.. If we continue to hold the width fixed while the
fabric will be very resistant to stretch or shrink in the width at any
subsequence stage of processing so long as the setting temperature
is not reached or closely approached. This is known as heat
setting.

GREY ROOM OPERATIONS

 GREY INSPECTION
 This is an important stage at which proper inspection should
be carried out.

 The fabric construction, weight, structure,Cotton quality and


grades used, besides its other parameters like width, strength
in grey, physical appearance Kitties, neps, manufacturing
defects, piece lengths etc are to be checked and cleared for
processing as all these characteristics have their influence on
the Processing activity.

 These characteristics give a fairly good idea of your


capabilities to process the fabric i.e., that you have the right
infrastructure in terms of machinery and men. They also, are

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the indices for certain end results and one can decide at this
stage itself whether a particular specification can be met or
not in the final product.

 A wrong decision at this stage can be disastrous, as any


amount of intervention later cannot solve the problem.

 Examples:
 Inferior mix with dead cotton and immature cotton will
cause undesirable specks on un- mercerized dyed
fabric. Even Bleached fabrics will look neppy.
Sometimes mercerization also will not improve the
appearance.

 Morphological and nutritional factors change raw


cotton characteristics and consequently have influence
on their processing and dyeing behaviors. Good
manufacturing practices ensure taking these factors
also into consideration at the mixing stage itself in the
blow room.

 Fabric without the proper reed width and grey width will
not give the desired finished width and construction
parameters. Where the specification is for pre- shrunk

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finish, the grey width should be determined in advance,
taking this aspect also into consideration.
Commissioned Process houses should be fore-
warned and insist on the correct Reed / Grey width.
Processing on Mercerizer and Senters will also pose
problems.

 Thick selvedges pose problems of forming ridges at


the selvedges in a batching operation.

 Un- bound selvedge warp threads especially fabrics


woven on two/three in a split looms will get frayed and
cause problems of getting wound on the guide rollers
of washing range / Pad steam Range etc.

 Improper construction / insufficient width of selvedges


cause folding /curling problems.

 Lower CSP (Count Strength Product) of yarn can


cause problems of not meeting the specifications of
strength in the final finished material, particularly where
cross-linking resins or flame retardant finishes are
involved. Such problems are more prevalent in fabrics
made out of open-end spun yarn, besides inferior
mixing. Care should be taken to ensure the desired
starting CSP for the required finished strength
specifications.

 A good House keeping and discipline should be


maintained for identification and segregation of sorts /

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different blend compositions /merge numbers in case
of Polyester (Synthetic) blends.

 Where there is difficulty in controlling the sources of


grey, as in the context of commissioned processing, it
is desirable to segregate fabric including cotton,
source-wise, check dye-ability and then group.

 Also, certain defects from manufacturing cannot be


covered in Dyeing. E.g. Reed lines, starting places,
count variation particularly in the weft, etc should be
segregated and diverted to Bleaching or Printing.

 SHEARING, CROPPING AND MENDING


 These operations are generally carried out before
dispatch to Process House to clean and to remove
loose threads anchored on the surface.
 Inspection of grey fabric is carried out on machines /
tables and mended where possible or the fabric with
major faults are cut out. In some Process Houses
these operations are carried out in-House.

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 Fabrics with high incidence of warp and or weft floats
like in some Jacquards cannot be sheared and
cropped. Similarly very delicate fabrics cannot stand
this operation.
 The removal of loose threads and trimming /cleaning
will have to be done while mending on the inspection
machines / tables manually.
 Caution should be exercised to avoid fabric susceptible
to damages during shearing and cropping. This will go
a long way to avoid further problems elsewhere in the
process sequence.

The problems related to shearing and cropping operation.

PROBLEMS DETAILS
Loose threads anchored on surface of Loose threads will get wound
fabric not removed due to poor on guide rollers forming ridges
performance of the operation in the processing machines and

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cause creases at these places.

Also loose threads can cause


problems of Dye /Print transfer
in a padding / Printing
application
Blunt blade /setting will affect
efficiency adversely will result
in uneven cropping resulting in
un-cut loose threads.
Blade sharpness and settings are
important parameters that need to be
Also tear the fabric
checked frequently
intermittently Better to mend on
tables including loose threads
than run on faulty Shearing and
Cropping machine.
The blade section will get
Defective Exhaust /Suction fans clogged and cleaning of the
fabric will be affected.

The none / faulty performance


can cause extensive damages
Seam Detectors
and down time losses.

Metal Detectors Absence of or faulty detectors


may allow metallic foreign
bodies embedded in the fabric,
which will damage the Fabric

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and the machine in subsequent
operations case study.
Intermittent rotation of these
rollers due to bearing defect will
give differential
cleaning/rubbing and cause
Emery rollers major causes for problems
variation in shade/ appearance.
Settings for fabric contact
should be pre-determined to
avoid satisfactory cleaning.

Emery rollers will give uneven


abrasion marks at the folds that
Fabric run with folds in body/selvedges cannot be corrected Also the
or crumpled together blade will abrade differentially /
cut the folded areas and also at
the folded selvedges

In some cases, untrimmed


selvedges will get entangled in
Untrimmed selvedges/Un bound the Stenter causing cuts/tear at
selvedges the selvedge. Un bound
selvedge can fray and cause
problems.
Tearing / Entanglement of
Major cuttable faults fabric at these places while
processing under tension

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 SUGGESTED ACTIONS

 Honing and setting of the blades should be carried out in a pre


set time cycle depending on the type of fabrics. Running of
heavier and thick fabrics may require more frequent attention.

 The guiders, tension rollers, emery rollers condition, bearings,


parallelism / alignment of the guide rollers, exhaust fans etc.
should be checked and maintained as a preventive maintenance
exercise with out fail.

 Selvedge uncurlers should be maintained for efficient


functioning.

 Metal detector, Seam detector and lifting mechanism should be


functional to avoid damages / down time.

 Vigilant supervision.

 The system should provide for segregation of material rendered


faulty due to any malfunction.

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 The defects caused at this stage, if allowed unnoticed, will cause
a number of problems related to rubbing marks, tear / holes,
hazy appearance, and even apparent dyeing faults like patchy
effects.

 MAKING UP OF THE LOT / BATCH SIZE


 The next important stage in the Grey Inspection and forwarding
for processing is the making up of the lot and batch size.
 Based on the grey inspection input, the fabric from different
categories based on weight, construction, width, source etc
should be segregated and grouped.
 The specific group should be stitched together and made into a
lot size.
 A lot may comprise of the entire fabric material of an order
quantity or any other basis followed by the Process House, but
the batch size should be in terms of the minimum length
determined in advance.
 This will depend on the Processes and the process sequence.
 Certain operations in the sequence may permit mixing of the
groups, but if any one operation requires segregation, that would

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over ride other considerations for making up a batch.

 Examples:
 Weight/construction/width wise grouping will be critical at
both continuous and batch wise preparation stages of
scouring, but not so critical in certain operations like in the
chainless mercerizing range.
 If for some reason the small Process House is resorting to
batch mercerizing / causticising, batch identity should be
maintained. However this method of mercerization is not
very satisfactory and can only be a compromise with the
attendant problems.
 The problems relating to mixing of categories shall be
further discussed under Scouring, Mercerizing etc.

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 STITCHING

Stitching the pieces together is an area requiring serious attention.


Flawless stitching of the joints is essential in order to avoid much of the
problems caused by negligence in this apparently innocuous operation.

Problems related to Stitching

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Considerations Consequences during Processing
Will result in Weft distortion Any
Piece ends cut correction on the machine cannot
obliquely to the weft solve this unless the piece ends are
direction and joined torn along the weft line and again re-
stitched along the weft line
Stitch thread should withstand the
Stitching thread
rigours of the process sequences /
selection
chemicals used / tension / stress etc.
Stitching pattern Butt to butt stitching would be ideal
for fabrics with good cover factor and
with standard reed x pick parameters
and heavy fabrics. Fabrics with low
cover factor and low reed x pick
parameters; also some of the re-
generated cellulose and their blends
may yield and fray to snap at the
joints under tension during
processing.

In such cases the joint will have to be


the regular end on end stitching.

It may be cautioned that this pattern


of stitch for very heavy qualities like
canvas, denims etc. could result in
damages to the padding mangles and

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washing machine nips.

There are also chances of stitch


marks showing up in certain batch
wise dyeing processes.

The aim should be to avoid ridges at


the joints and ensure smooth
passage of the joints through the nips
without jolting / jumping.
Opening up at the places of gaps
under tension can cause distortion
Bad stitching:
immediately next to the gaps.
• Broken threads Sometimes even joint may snap.
causing intermittent Creases may start generating from
gaps in the stitching these points.

• Beginning and
End of the stitching
The joint will open up at the
not properly locked
selvedges causing Selvedge folds,
rolling /curling of selvedges.
Variation in Grey Any protrusion of piece beyond the
width stitching shall result in folding of the
selvedge starting from the protruding
• Variation in grey
portion: some times right through the
width within a
piece length.
tolerance of 2cm*

After aligning one side while stitching,


• Stitching with
the two ends of the pieces should be

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guided (stretched / relaxed) such that
at the end there is no protrusion

Creases will start from the folds.


Considerable length of the piece shall
puckering or with
be creased up before the fabric
folds (pleats) to
opens up.
accommodate wide
variation in width
Should be totally avoided. The pieces
should be grouped together as per
the width at the inspection stage itself
as already discussed.

CASE 1

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GREY
ROOM
OPERATIONS
AT
SANGHI
TEXTILES

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SANGHI TEXTILES PVT. LTD
Sanghi Textiles Pvt. Ltd., one of the largest and latest textile processors in
South India, strives for customer satisfaction while attempting excellence in
quality. It was commissioned in 1979 and now runs with a production
capacity of 100000 metres per day. It is an integrated unit with processing
facilities of cotton, synthetic and blended fabric of all qualities. It has
updated and upgraded quality management system with modern
technologies to enhance customer satisfaction while obtaining feedback
from their valued customers.

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PROCESS FLOW

Grey Fabric checking and stitching

Further treatment rendered to Further Treatment Rendering to


cotton fabric polyester fabric

Scouring
Singeing

Bleaching + H2O2 Treatment


Desizing

Souring
Scouring

Mercerizing
Bleaching + H2O2 Treatment

Jet Dyeing
Mercerizing

Finishing
Souring

Sanfronising &
Jigger Dyeing Calendering

Finishing
Folding and Packaging

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Sanfronising & Folding and Packaging
Calendering

DEPARTMENT
 Grey room Department

 Bleaching Department

 Dyeing Department

 Printing Department

 Finishing Department

 Folding Department

 Quality Assurance Department

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Grey room operations at Sanghi Textiles
The Main purpose of the Greyroom Department is to inspect the grey
fabric for weaving defects, to mend all repairable defects and to generate
quality reports of the fabric inspected so that the fabric can be delivered to
the processing department as per the present requirement or demand. It
stores the grey goods in the roll form, until they are issued to the
processing. The major operations carried out in the Greyroom department
are:

1. Bale Opening

Motive:

Before taking the fabric for the process it is necessary to verify all
the relevant information and document.

Fabric Check:

Fabric checking is carried out on a light table. Here,


the fabric is placed on a glass table with two tube
lights below it. Due to the illumination the fabric
defects become visible to the naked eye and are thus manually
removed.

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Procedure:

The bales are brought manually from the godown by keeping the
bales in the hand trolley for opening the bales for verification such
as fold, width, length, weight and ends for picks.

Precautions:

- While opening the bales care should be taken by workmen, so


that no damage should occur when using the knife for opening.

- Trolley should be checked properly to avoid any type of accident


during the transportation of the bales from godown to the
opening places.

- To keep in mind that iron strike should not damage the fabric
while opening the bales and also no injury should happen to the
workers.

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2. Grey Room Checking And Rejection

Motive:

Before the fabric is given for stitching the grey goods have to be
checked, inspected on the table for checking of oil stains, water
marks, etc. to maintain quality.

Procedure:

After opening the bales, cotton or man-made fabric,


the fabric is taken on the checking table and
examined thoroughly. The mendable defects are
repaired using implements like a trimmer, comb etc.
The non-mendable defects are carefully noted in
the report. Good fabric has to be allowed for
stitching and rejected goods are kept separately for party approval.

Grey fabric inspection machine :


The 100% grey fabric inspection is done in the Almac woven fabric
inspection machine. The unit has installed three fabric
inspection machine of Almac brand.

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The Almach woven fabric inspection machines have the following
features:
- Inspection table is laminated with adequate number of tube-lights
provided beneath and above the glass with variable lighting
arrangement.
- Push button controls are given on the drive box on the right hand
side.
- Cloth can run in FORWARD as well as in REVERSE direction.
- Fabric runs in face in/face out manner.
- Special jogging or inching device is provided to stop the machine
at the right location of the defect.
- Soft start and instantaneous stoppage of fabric can be done.
- Automatic stop arrangement to stop the machine at the end of
the fabric piece.
- Bow bar has been provided in the batching device to open out
the creases in the fabric.
- Perfectly aligned straight edges in tunes of ± 1 to 2mm in the
model with automatic edge guiding system. The device comes
with an electronically
- Operated motorized screw type arrangement, thus doing away
with the requirements such as compressed air etc.
- Perfect tension during the flow of the fabric is provided using
guide roll assembly, thus no hassles of nip rolls occur.
- Meter Counter is installed in front of the platform top for easy
reading.

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Precautions:

- Oil and stains spotted should be removed by hand with spotting


chemicals; loose ends should be removed.

- Report about the defective goods like cuts, hales and water
marks etc. must be reported to the Supervisor and Head of the
Department of Grey Department.

- Grey checkers should clean their equipment and inspection table


and surroundings daily before starting the day’s work.

3. Stitching

Motive:

Generally the amount of cloth received is about 10 meters or more


than that. It needs to be made into long length cloth from processing
such as rope form, open form, so that several thousands meters of
fabric can be processed continuously.

Procedure:

Different types of cloth are sorted out; stitching of the same type of
fabric is carried out at the same time. Before stitching each piece is
checked for lot number, width so that at any stage in the process
pieces can be identified.

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Precautions:

Machines should be checked before stitching via needle, plates in order to


avoid stoppage in the middle of the fabric.

End to end should be perfectly stitched to avoid any type of crease


formation during the process.

No entanglement of fabric is to be allowed while stitching and works for


traceability should not hide.

Clean the machines after stitching.

Cotton goods should be stitched with cotton threads.

Blended goods should be stitched with synthetic threads.

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AMERICAN CHECKING SYSTEM
The American checking system or 4 point system has received the widest
acceptance in the textile industry. In this system, cloth defects are given
penalty points, depending upon the severity of defects. Sanghi Textiles Pvt.
Ltd. operates in 4 point system.

Defect Classification:
Size of Defects Penalty Points
1 inch to 3 inches 1 point
3 inches to 6 inches 2 points
6 inches to 9 inches 3 points
9 inches and above 4 points

• The whole fabric roll is inspected.

• Not more than 4 points are assigned to one linear yard.

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• The total penalty points per 100 yards of fabric should not be more
than 20 points.

• Any defect repeatedly occurring throughout the entire piece is


marked second.

DEFECTS & THEIR REMEDIES

DEFECTS ORIGIN REMEDIES

Ball Cut knife Be alert while opening the bales

Clean the hands before


Dirty Stain handling
handling

Oil Stain Weaving Do hand spotting

2-3% such defects allowed to


Curly Cumas Comes in grey stage
processing; can’t be rectified

Be alert while stamping party


Carelessness of stamping
Wrong Identification name, lot, no. of piece, no. of
man
processes to be done, etc.

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Before stitching, same width of
Stitching Variation fabric is to be segregated for
Width variation of fabric
Selvedge to selvedge stitching to avoid creases while
processing open width fabrics.

it is due to the fault of sized;


2-3% such defects allowed for
Missing Ends It cannot be rectified after
processing
manufacturing of cloth

it is due to the negligence of 2-3% of such defects allowed


Double pick
weaver for processing

2-3% such defects allowed for


Double Ends
weaving processing; cutting it by the
Loose ends
slitter

CASE 2:-
GREY ROOM
OPERATIONS

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AT
WELSPUN

WELSPUN INDIA

Welspun India limited a part of the Welspun group had its beginning in
1993 as terry towel manufacturing unit at Vapi.

The company exports more than 90 % of its total production to over 34


countries and caters to 12 out of the 20 top retailers in the world.

The company‟s share in US home textiles market is on the rise as it is


moving up the value chain from selling to mass merchant, at the bottom of
market pyramid to designer brands at the uppermost tip of the pyramid.

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With licensed life style brands in home textiles, the company‟s desire to
expand its business on high value products and distribution channels as
part of its overall risk free strategy.

Company has also entered into the domestic market with the brand name
Spaces, offering holistic home textile solution. ’Spaces’ has a retail
presence in over 800 stores.
Location : The Anjar unit is located in the important vicinity of Kandla port.

Fiber type :-The main fiber spun in this unit is cotton and its blends along
with some other special fibers which include polyester, modal, bamboo,
static, etc. The cotton is mainly blended with polyester in the ratio of 3:2
depending on the end use and requirement.

Fabric type :-The unit many produces woven terry towels i.e. uncut pile
weaving.

Process flow for the dyeing process

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GREY FOLDING DEPARTMENT
The Main purpose of the Grey Folding Department is to inspect the grey
fabric for weaving defects and to generate quality reports of the fabric
inspected. It also prepares the fabric for delivery to the processing
department as per the present requirement or demand. It stores the grey
goods in the roll form, until they are issued to the processing. It also mends
all the repairable defects prior to rolling & storage.

Grey fabric inspection machine


The 100% grey fabric inspection is done in the Almac woven fabric
inspection machine with the following features:
⇒ Inspection table is laminated with adequate number of tube-lights

provided beneath and above the glass with variable lighting arrangement.

⇒ Push button controls are given on the drive box on the right hand
side.

⇒ Cloth can run in FORWARD as well as in REVERSE direction


instantaneously.

⇒ Fabric runs face in/face out

⇒ Special jogging or inching device is provided to stop the machine at


the right location of the defect.

⇒ Soft start and instantaneous stoppage of fabric.

⇒ Automatic stop arrangement to stop the machine at the end of the


fabric piece.

⇒ Bow bar has been provided in the batching device to open out the
creases in the fabric.

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⇒ Perfectly aligned straight edges in tunes of ± 1 to 2mm in our model
with automatic edge guiding system.

⇒ The device comes with an electronically operated motorized screw


type arrangement, thus doing away with requirements such as
compressed air etc.

⇒ Perfect tension during the flow of the fabric is provided using guide
roll assembly, thus no hassles of nip rolls.

⇒ Meter Counter is installed in front on platform top for easy reading.

Fabric inspection

⇒ There are two such machines which are used for the inspection of
the grey fabric. After the inspection has been done the grey fabric is
now wound on to A-frames from doff rolls by the help of the batching
machines.done for easy transportation of the fabric roll in the
processing unit.
⇒ There are three batching machines in the grey folding department.
The fabric roll on the A-frame is then passed on to the processing
unit.

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Weaving Defects

The grey fabric inspection takes place mainly to check the following
weaving defects:

Crack
 Appearance – too few picks per inch in few areas

 Cause –

a) Bad start up procedure by weaver

b) Let off or take up, worn or broken

c) Improper tension on warp

d) Weft feeler problem

 Responsibility of weaver –
a) More care required while pick finding

b) Stop loom, call supervisor

Float
 Appearance – distortion in weft direction generally accompanies with
warp break

 Cause –

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a) Fluff or knot behind reed

b) Spare end weaving in

c) Knot with long tails

d) Warp stop motion not working


 Responsibility of weaver – remove the cause

Wrong drawing
 Appearance – irregular pattern warp way in the cloth

 Cause – weaver incorrectly drawing in the healds

 Responsibility of weaver – correct the draw

Leno problem
 Appearance – leno end not holding correctly

 Cause –

a) Wrong drawing ion leno device

b) Build up of dirt or fly

c) Wrong tension or ends

d) Faulty leno device


 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Correct the draw

b) Clean off

c) Adjust tension

d) Call mechanic

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Missing end
 Appearance – warp line; thin gap in warp direction

 Cause –
a) Fluff in drop wires

b) Warp stop motion not working

c) Missing drop wire

d) Electrical fault

e) Incorrect settings of warp stop motion


 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Blow air regularly

b) Inform mechanic

c) Replace it

d) Inform supervisor

Design mistake
 Appearance – incorrect design

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 Cause – wrong design put in microprocessor

 Responsibility of weaver – stop loom and inform supervisor

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Wrong weft
 Appearance – incorrect weft

 Cause – incorrect count or colour of weft

 Responsibility of weaver – to ensure correct use of weft and always


check weft as per loom card

Slough off
 Appearance – loose coils of weft in the fabric

 Cause – bad cones or incorrect tension

 Responsibility of weaver – to replace the cone or inform


supervisor

Pull terry
 Appearance – pile ends are pulled / cut across the fabric width

 Cause – if foreign bodies cones are in contact with needle, needle


could be damaged or take up motion problem

 Responsibility of weaver – inform supervisor, mechanic

Reverse terry
 Appearance - pile formation in plain portion of the cloth

 Cause – pile / ground beam tension problem

 Responsibility of weaver – inform supervisor / mechanic

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Starting mark
 Appearance – thick or thin places at the start of the loom

 Cause – incorrect loom setting

 Responsibility of weaver – call mechanic / inform supervisor

Defective selvedge
 Appearance – no fringes from cutters, cloth may be cut

 Cause – wrong position of selvedge cutters

 Responsibility of weaver – replace the end until the end is clean

Defective border
 Appearance – warp line

 Cause – reed dents bent or damaged

 Responsibility of weaver – flag fixer

Oil stain
 Appearance – warp line corresponding to the temple

 Cause – weaver incorrectly drawing in selvedge ends

 Responsibility of weaver – flag fixer

Shade variation

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 Appearance – selvedge ends weaving incorrectly

 Cause – weaver incorrectly drawing in selvedge ends

 Responsibility of weaver – stop loom and correct

Dobby heald problem


 Appearance – heavy line warp way

 Cause – two ends in the same heald

 Responsibility of weaver – remove extra end

Reed mark
 Appearance – visible line warp way in the cloth

 Cause –

a) Weaver error

b) Portion of yarn with incorrect twist

c) Fault in warping or drawing in.


 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Weaver‟s fault

b) Remove and unmark the end

c) Flag fixer

Uneven pile height

 Appearance – visible line filling way in the cloth

 Cause –

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a) Broken filling not completely removed

b) Pick finding incorrect

c) Faulty filling detector

 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Weaver‟s fault

b) Flag fixer
Emery mark

 Appearance – thick line across cloth

 Cause –

a) Incorrect pick finding

b) Reverse cone caught and running in


 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Weaver‟s fault

Damaged terry

 Appearance – filling bar

 Cause –

a) Wrong cone creeled

b) Mixed yarn in spinning or winding

 Responsibility of weaver –
a) Weaver‟s fault

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b) Stop loom, flag supervisor

CASE 3

GREY ROOM
OPERATIONS
AT

47
ALPS
INDUSTRIES

ALPS INDUSTRIES

Alps Industries Imited, established in 1962 and one the leading


manufacturers of Yarns, Home Furnishings, Natural Dyes, and Fashion
Accessories which is well appreciated all across the globe. It also offers a
whole range of Architectural products under the brand name "Vista" having
the highest brand recall in its category and Fashion Accessories under the
brand name "Le-Pashmina" in the domestic market with a wide Distribution
network. Their strength lies in their infrastructure as they have 7
production facilities, which operate on state-of the-art production
technology and mantain Environment Management Systems.

Mission

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• To achieve a leading position in environment friendly textile
products.
• To create top-of-the-mind brand recall for its products.
• To pursue innovation of new products
• To strengthen market reach in both the domestic and international
markets so as to fully capture emerging opportunities.
• To reach the customers directly for improved responsiveness to
changing customer preferences.
• To introduce own brands for home furnishing products in the
international market.
• Position, both in the domestic as well as the international market.

Fiber type:- Fibers mainly produced and processed are cotton and
polyester
Fabric type:-
the main type of
fabric that
undergoes
treatments are f
poly cott

PROCESS
FLOW

49
Grey room operations at Alps
international

In case the woven gray fabric contains any defects, the


loom which has produced the fabric is identified and the fabric is mended.

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The fabric is placed on grey checking table having a glass plate in wooden
frame, with 4 tube lights behind it for good illumination, which contains a
meter and the fabric is pulled beneath the meter automatically by machine
and the length checked is recorded. White paper is stuck at the back of the
glass to improve visibility. The faults are marked by tying a red thread at
the selvage of the place of defect so that it can be easily identified while
mending. Also, all defects are noted in detail, in a register.

DEFECTS
Fabric defects can be classified into two groups:
• Avoidable and unavoidable – major and minor
• Mendable and unmendable

Common fabric defects and their causes:

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• Pick bar: A band running across the full width of the cloth due to
difference in appearance from its adjacent surface due to difference
in pick spacing. Principal causes are mechanical faults in the loom
such as faulty geating in the take-up motion, beam collars are loose,
cracked, broken or bentbeam gudgeons.
• Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of
threads, inserting a pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp
threads.
• Broken pick: A pick missing from a portion of the width of the fabric.
A frequent cause is rough shuttle-eyes which snag the weft. Poor
winding may cause the yarn to slough and catch, or a pin inserted in
the shuttle improperly may cause the yarn to snag and break. Rough
shuttles may cut the yarn, especially if the side of the shuttle has
been worn. Rough shuttle box sides also may snag the weft yarn.
Sharp weft fork prongs often cut the weft yarn.
• Cracks: A narrow streak running parallel to the weft due to the
pronounced opening between two adjacent yarns. Any loom
condition that permits erratic operation of the sley or any of its parts
will create cracks in the fabric. For example, worn or loose crank
shaft or crank arm bearings will cause the sley to operate erratically,
as will also a loose crank arm. A loosed reed, that is, one that has
excess freedom in the sley, will also cause this defect.
• Cut weft: This defect is caused by the use of weak weft with a
strong warp. It shows as a pin hole in the finished fabric. Sharp
reeds and tight selvedges are also responsible for these short
lengths of yarn that extend from the selvedge.
• Curled selvedge: Rolling or turning over selvedge due to incorrect
balance of cloth structure between body and the selvedge or
excessive weft tension.

52
• Missing ends/ ends out: A most common fault, it is characterized
by a gap of one or more warp ends in the fabrics.
• Reed marks: A ready cloth shows irregular spacing between groups
of warp yarns across the width of the fabric. This defect may be
caused by a damaged or defective reed or too late shedding.
• Shuttle marks: Widthwise marks due to abrasion of warp yarns by
the shuttle. Caused by sheds not adjusted properly by being too
high or too low this causing the shuttle to be thrown in a crooked
manner. Shuttles not timed properly, this entering the shed too early
or too late, may also cause shuttle marks.
• Floats stitches: A place in the fabric where warp and weft escape
the required interlacement. Main causes: entanglement of warp
threads due to broken end or breakage of wire healds on running
loom.
• Stains: Majority of the stains occur at loom shed only, due to oil,
grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles in air, sweat, crayon stains,
box mark etc. they can be accounted to poor material handling and
cleaning practices. Certain stains can be removed by solvents, but it
involves additional cost.

53
MENDING & FOLDING

Mending helps in removing minor defects. The defects are mended


manually by workers called menders. The operator mends the faults
according to their nature. The major defects are sent for cutting and the
fabric roll is re prepared as per requirement, before sending to the packing
department. There are 5 long tables with 2 operators on each. There are 3
tube lights overhead each table for good visibility.

GREY FOLDING
After mending the fabric is folded again into rolls to make commercial
packages and sometimes for further processing. Three grey folding
machines are used in Alps for this purpose. ALMAC Vadodara folding
inspection machine is used, 1mx4m dimension.

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Classification of major and minor defects

55
CONCLUSION

 Grey room operations are the primay stage for the wet
processing in the textile industry.
 This is an important stage at which proper inspection should
be carried out.
 A wrong decision at this stage can be disastrous, as any
amount of intervention later cannot solve the problem.
 These inspections help in obtaining the desired properties in
the later stages of the wet processing.
 The grey room checking should be done at minute levels with
high precision so as to avoid any glitches or missing of any
faults or defects.
 Grey room operations also help in the mending of various
defects so as to avoid losses

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

• TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT AT WELSPUN INDIA


LIMITED, ANJAR ,GUJRAT by Mr Pawan Department of
Fashion Technology, Batch-2005-2009.

• TEXTILE INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT SANGHI GROUP OF


INDUSTRIES, SANGHINAGAR , HYDERABAD AND
MARUTI COTTEX LIMITED, NALGONDA DISTRICT,
HYDERABAD by Mr Ankit Ranjan, Mr Mohit Sachan and
Mr Zarraf Hussain, Department of Fashion Technology,
Batch-2005-2009.

• TEXTILE INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT ALPS INDUSTRIES


by Ms.Radhika agarwal, Ms shagufta ismat, Ms. Gitika
Singh,Mr Rohit khare.

• Textiles by Corbmann

WEBSITES

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• www.springsamsolutions.com

search engines

• www.google.com

• www.wikipedia.com

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