Chef

The Journal for Chefs

throughout the world

w w w. c h e f p u b l i s h i n g . c o m
July/August 2017 £5.00

Front of House
Talk to the chef Raising a Glass

Simon
to English
Wines
Rogan
Sowing the Seeds
Cooking in unusual Places:
Submarine
HMS Triumph
Our Premier Leagues,
under the Sea

Salmon Test of Taste

Donaldson’s
of Orkney
 Brighton’s Best announce their first cookbook -
Brighton’s Best Cookbook: Recipes from the Top
Brighton is one of the most exciting and dynamic
dining destinations in the country and now you
can cook the food that has put the city on the UK’s
gastronomic map in your own home.
Brighton’s Best Cookbook: Recipes from the
Top 20 Restaurants features 100 recipes that
reflect the city’s diverse dining scene with
everything from modern small plates such as
hispi, hollandaise and truffle from chef Michael
Bremner of the ground breaking 64 Degrees to
stunning refined seafood dishes like wild bass,
brandade, piquillo and lentil by former Fat Duck
chef Duncan Ray of the three AA rosette Little
Fish Market.
Brighton’s Best Cookbook is the official
cookbook of Brighton’s Best Restaurants,
the annual awards that lists the 20 best
restaurants in the city as voted for by an
expert panel of local food writers, chefs,
restaurateurs, business leaders, critics and
gourmands. The book is not just the perfect
memento of great dining experience in the city
(and a guide to many more), but the depth and
breadth of the recipes makes it an invaluable
go-to-guide for any keen cook.
There’s step by step guides on to how to make
the perfect pizza from Fatto a Mano and how
to cook the perfect steak by The Coal Shed.
You’ll learn how to re-create the fabulous Riddle
and Finns fruits de mer platter at home and the
20 Restaurants published by Chef Publishing Ltd
secrets of Japanese Izakaya-style food from brings the food and people behind it to
64 Degrees
Bincho Yakitori. glorious, colourful life.
Bincho Yakitori
Compiled and edited by Brighton’s Brighton’s Best Cookbook: Recipes from The Chilli Pickle
Best Restaurants co-founder Andy the Top 20 Restaurants, edited by Andy
The Little Fish Market
Lynes, the book features profiles of all Lynes with photography by Peter Marshall
20 restaurants, shedding new light on is published by Chef Publishing ltd and The Set
the chefs and restaurateurs who have is available from chefpublishing.com/ Cin Cin
made Brighton one of the country’s most collections/books and available to buy
Plateau
important gastronomic cities. The stunning directly from all the top 20 restaurants
original photography by Peter Marshall included in the book. The Salt Room
Silo
Semolina
The Gingerman
Terre a Terre
Curry Leaf Cafe
Isaac@
The Ginger Pig
Fatto a Mano
The Urchin
The Coal Shed
Riddle & Finns
Fourth & Church
 Contents
Industry Topic
London Bridge and
the Borough Market .................................. 10
Talk to the chef
Simon Rogan
Sowing the Seeds........................................ 14
Cooking in unusual Places
HMS Triumph
Our Premier Leagues,
under the Sea................................................. 18
Area Profile: Wales
“Cymru am byth”......................................... 24
Area Profile: Wales
Stephane Borie Checkers....................... 28
Area Profile: Wales
Restaurant James Sommerin............... 32
Area Profile: Wales
Shaun Hill The Walnut Tree Inn........... 36
Area Profile: Wales
Sosban and the Old Butchers ............. 40
Area Profile: Wales
Gareth Ward - Ynyshir Hall.................... 44

The White Table

• 100% pure white porcelain, finely Featured Plate Botanique - part of the
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substances or heavy metals www.thewhitetable.co.uk jerry@thewhitetable.co.uk

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4
 Area Profile: Wales
Chris Harrods
The Whitebrook............................................. 48
Area Profile: Wales
Bryan Webb
Tyddyn Llan..................................................... 52
Test of Taste Salmon
Donaldson’s Of Orkney............................. 54
Meet The supplier
Partnership, service or product -
what makes a good supplier?............. 56
Introduction
Jacopo Bruni................................................... 58
Ganache: Casa Luker profile
A Chefs perspective................................... 60
Front of House
Raising a Glass to English Wines....... 65
In The Kitchen
Michelin Star Chef James Close
Reopens Revamped Raby Hunt........... 68
News.................................................................... 71
London Round up
Nobu opens his first european
hotel in Shoreditch...................................... 74
Tried and Tested
Fripura................................................................ 78

With over 60 years of butchery experience

between them, this is a team committed to
supplying high quality meat and sh products to
people in Orkney for years to come. The butchers
are supported by an experienced and loyal staff,
some of whom have been with the business for
more than quarter of a century!
“What I enjoy most is getting to know the
customers and what they want, working with
them to find out what best meets their needs” The Salmon has a beautifully firm texture
Erik Donaldson and smoked to perfection Andrew Scott
Chef at Sudbury House Hotel

5
 Recipes
Rudi
Chorizo roll close up double.................. 13

Simon Rogan
Grilled Salad smoked over embers,
Isle of mull cheese, custard
and cobnuts...................................................... 17

James Sommerin
Liquid Pea Ravioli with Serrano
Ham, Crispy Sage and Paremsan
Emulsion............................................................ 35

Stephan and Bethan Stevens

Umami log........................................................ 39

Shaun Hill
Orange and almond cake ...................... 42

Gareth Ward
Strawberry Elder.......................................... 47

Jacopo Bruni
Banoffee Swiss Roll................................... 59

Chef Magazine is published by Sales and Marketing Photography

Chef Publishing Ltd Claire Bosi Peter Marshall
FS House Dormer Road, Claire@chefpublishing.com Geoff Dann
Thame, Oxfordshire OX9 3FS Kuma Masahi
For general enquiries Electronic Publishing Steve Lee
regarding Chef magazine Martyn@chefpublishing.com Francesco Tonelli
email: peter@chefpublishing.com
DISTRIBUTION Designer, art editor
Consultant David Vernau FS Distribution Zoran Simonovski
Peter Marshall movedesign@graphic-designer.com

www.chefpublishing.com
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Michelin Guide 2017

  Dabbous
Ollie Dabbous
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
James Knappett
Quilon
Sriram Aylur
www.dabbous.co.uk www.kitchentablelondon.co.uk www.quilon.co.uk
London London
Dining Room at the Goring Kitchen W8 Ritz Restaurant
Alain Ducasse at The Alyn Williams at The John Williams
Shay Cooper Mark Kempson
Dorchester Westbury
www.thegoring.com www.kitchenw8.com www.theritzlondon.com
Jocelyn Herland Alyn Williams
www.alainducasse-dorchester.com www.alynwilliams.com Ellory L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon River Café
www.ellorylondon.com Oliver Limousin Rose Gray
Gordon Ramsay Amaya www.joelrobuchon.co.uk www.rivercafe.co.uk
Matt Abé
Karunesh Khanna Fera at Claridge’s
www.gordonramsayrestaurants.
www.amaya.biz Simon Rogan La Trompette Seven Park Place
com/restaurant-gordon-ramsay
www.feraatclaridges.co.uk Anthony Boyd William Drabble
Ametsa www.stjameshotelandclub.com/

www.latrompette.co.uk
Elena Arzak Five Fields restaurant-piccadilly
www.comohotels.com/thehalkin/ www.fivefieldsrestaurant.com Lima Fitzrovia
London dining/ametsa Robert Ortiz Social Eating House
Galvin at Windows www.limalondongroup.com/fitzrovia Jason Atherton
Araki Angler Jeff Galvin www.socialeatinghouse.com
Mitsuhiro Araki Tony Fleming www.galvinatwindows.com Locanda Locatelli
www.the-araki.com www.anglerrestaurant.com St John
Giorgio Locatelli
Chris Gillard
Galvin La Chapelle www.locandalocatelli.com
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Barrafina www.stjohngroup.uk.com
Jeff Galvin
Ashley Palmer-Watts Nieves Barragán Mohacho www.galvinrestaurants.com/ Lyle's
www.dinnerbyheston.com www.barrafina.co.uk Story
section/61/1/galvin-la-chapelle James Lowe
Tom Sellers
www.lyleslondon.com
Greenhouse Benares www.restaurantstory.co.uk
Gymkhana
Arnaud Bignon
Atul Kochhar www.gymkhanalondon.com Murano
www.greenhouserestaurant.co.uk Tamarind
www.benaresrestaurant.com Angela Hartnett
Alfred Prasad
Hélène Darroze at The Hakkasan Hanway Place www.muranolondon.com
Bonhams
www.tamarindrestaurant.com
Connaught Tong Chee Hwee
Hélène Darroze Tom Kemble www.hakkasan.com/locations/ Outlaw's at the Capital
Texture
www.the-connaught.co.uk/mayfair- www.bonhams.com/locations/BS hakkasan-hanway-place Nathan Outlaw
Agnar Sverrisson
restaurants/helene-darroze www.capitalhotel.co.uk/dining www.texture-restaurant.co.uk
Céleste Hakkasan Mayfair
Le Gavroche Florian Favario Tong Chee Hwee Pétrus The Glasshouse
Michel Roux Jr www.lanesborough.com/eng/ www.hakkasan.com/locations/ Larry Jayasekara  www.glasshouserestaurant.co.uk
www.le-gavroche.co.uk restaurant-bars/celeste hakkasan-mayfair www.gordonramsayrestaurants.
com/petrus The Ninth
Ledbury Chez Bruce Harwood Arms www.theninthlondon.com
Brett Graham Bruce Poole Barry Fitzgerald Pidgin
www.theledbury.com www.chezbruce.co.uk www.harwoodarms.com www.pidginlondon.com Trinity
Marcus www.trinityrestaurant.co.uk
City Social Hedone Pied à Terre
Umu
Jason Atherton Mikael Jonsson Marcus Eaves Trishna
www.marcus-wareing.com
www.citysociallondon.com www.hedonerestaurant.com www.pied-a-terre.co.uk Karam Sethi
Sketch (The Lecture Room & www.trishnalondon.com
Library) Clove Club HKK Pollen Street Social
Pierre Gagnaire Isaac McHale Tong Chee Hwee Jason Atherton Veeraswamy
www.sketch.london/#gsc.tab=0 www.thecloveclub.com www.hkklondon.com www.pollenstreetsocial.com www.veeraswamy.com

Umu Club Gascon Kai Portland Yauatcha Soho

Yoshinori Ishii Pascal Aussignac Alex Chow Merlin Labron-Johnson Cheong Wah Soon
www.umurestaurant.com www.clubgascon.com/about.php www.kaimayfair.co.uk www.portlandrestaurant.co.uk www.yauatcha.com

The CHEF BOOK Inspiration for a Michelin Star Chef

“This book is a treasure-trove of great food. A veritable
anthology of some of the world’s best chefs and their
recipes including Paul Bocuse, the Roux family , Anton
Mosimann and Thomas Keller and many of the new
stars of today such as Sat Bains, Jason Atherton and
Daniel Humm. In total there are 114 chefs featured in this
amazing collection. The photography is a work of art and
the recipes are as diverse as the chefs featured.”
Nico Ladenis
Available from www.chefpublishing.com
ResDiary
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Michelin Guide 2017
Cambridge Bray Beverley Egham
 Alimentum
Patron Mark Poynton
restaurantalimentum.co.uk
Hinds Head
Kevin Love
www.hindsheadbray.com
Pipe and Glass Inn
James Mackenzie
www.pipeandglass.co.uk
Tudor Room at Great Fosters
Hotel
Marc Hardiman
United Kingdom Bath Newcastle Upon Tyne Chew Magna www.greatfosters.co.uk/dining/
Bath Priory House of Tides Pony & Trap tudor-room/menus
Bray Kenny Atkinson Birmingham
Fat Duck www.thebathpriory.co.uk Josh Eggleton
Winchester www.houseoftides.co.uk www.theponyandtrap.co.uk Turners @ 69
Heston Blumenthal Richard Turner
www.thefatduck.co.uk Black Rat Argyll & Bute Birmingham
John Marsden-Jones Isle of Eriska www.turnersat69.co.uk
Bray Purnell’s
www.theblackrat.co.uk Paul Leonard Glynn Purnell Biddenden
Waterside Inn www.eriska-hotel.co.uk West House
"Alain Roux & Fabrice Uhryn" Oldstead www.purnellsrestaurant.com
Graham Garrett
www.waterside-inn.co.uk Black Swan Loughborough East Chisenbury
John's House www.thewesthouserestaurant.
Tommy Banks Red Lion Freehouse co.uk
hwww.blackswanoldstead.co.uk John Duffin Guy Manning

 Highland
Boath House
Charlie Lockley
www.johnshouse.co.uk
Petersfield
JSW
www.redlionfreehouse.com
Bath
Bristol
Wilk's
James Wilkins
United Kingdom www.boath-house.com Jake Saul Watkins
Restaurant Hywel Jones by
Lucknam Park
www.wilksrestaurant.co.uk
jswrestaurant.com Newbury
Perth Channel Islands - St. Helier Howell Jones Woodspeen
Bohemia Highland www.lucknampark.co.uk/dining/ John Campbell
Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles Kinloch Lodge
Andrew Fairlie Steve Smith chefs-at-lucknam www.thewoodspeen.com
www.bohemiajersey.com Marcello Tully
www.andrewfairlie.co.uk www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk
Horsham Pateley Bridge
Oxfordshire Ilkley Restaurant Tristan Yorke Arms
Box Tree City of Edinburgh Tristan Mason Frances Atkins
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’ Kitchin
Saisons Simon Gueller www.restauranttristan.co.uk www.yorke-arms.co.uk
www.theboxtree.co.uk Tom Kitchin
Gary Jones www.thekitchin.com Bray Monmouthshire
www.belmond.com/le-manoir-aux- North Ayrshire Royal Oak Walnut Tree
Braidwoods Reading Don Chapman Shaun Hill
quat-saisons-oxfordshire L’Ortolan
Devon Keith Braidwood www.theroyaloakpaleystreet.com nfo@thewalnuttreeinn.Com
www.braidwoods.co.uk Tom Clarke
Gidleigh Park www.lortolan.com Chester The Whitebrook
Michael Wignall Eldersfield Simon Radley at Chester Chris Harrod
Butchers Arms Bourton-on-the-Water Grosvenor info@thewhitebrook.co.uk
gidleigh.co.uk Lords of the Manor
Marlow James Winter
Richard Picard-Edwards
Simon Radley Anglesey
Hand and Flowers www.thebutchersarms.net www.chestergrosvenor.com/simon- Sosban & The Old Butchers
www.lordsofthemanor.com
Tom Kerridge Castle Combe radley-restaurant eat@sosbanandtheoldbutchers.com
Bybrook at Manor House City of Edinburgh Denbighshire
www.thehandandflowers.co.uk Martin Wishart Birmingham
Hotel Simpsons Tyddyn Llan
Cumbria www.martin-wishart.co.uk Bryan and Susan Webb
L’Enclume Rob Potter Andreas Antona
www.exclusive.co.uk/the-manor- West Dunbartonshire www.simpsonsrestaurant.co.uk mail@tyddynllan.co.uk
Simon Rogan Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond
www.lenclume.co.uk house/restaurants-bars/the- Chinnor Powys
bybrook Martin Wishart Ynyshir
Cheltenham www.mwlochlomond.co.uk Sir Charles Napier
Le Champignon Sauvage Birmingham Gerd Greaves Gareth Ward
Carters of Moseley Knowstone info@ynyshir.co.uk
David Everitt-Matthias Masons Arms www.sircharlesnapier.co.uk
Brad Carter Helmsley The Checkers
www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Mark Dodson
cartersofmoseley.co.uk Star Inn Stéphane Borie
Cambridge Bristol
www.masonsarmsdevon.co.uk kathryn@checkerswales.co.uk
Midsummer House Blakeney Andrew Pern
Casamia www.thestaratharome.co.uk Glamorgan
Daniel Cliford Morston Hall James Sommerin
www.midsummerhouse.co.uk Jon Ray & Peter Sanchez Fife
www.casamiarestaurant.co.uk Galton Blackiston James Sommerin
Darlington www.morstonhall.com The Cellar
Kenilworth Waterford
Raby Hunt Blackburn Torquay House at Cliff House Hotel
Cross at Kenilworth
James Close Northcote The Elephant Martijn Kajuiter
Adam Bennett
www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk Nigel Haworth Simon Hulstone info@cliffatlyons.ie
www.thecrosskenilworth.co.uk www.elephantrestaurant.co.uk
Port Issac Burchett's Green
www.northcote.com Dublin
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
Crown City of Edinburgh Leeds Chapter One
Nathan Outlaw Number One The Man Behind the Curtain Ross Lewis
www.thecrownburchettsgreen.com
www.nathan-outlaw.com Jeff Bland Michael O'Hare info@chapteronerestaurant.com
Nottingham Portscatho www.roccofortehotels.com
Driftwood www.themanbehindthecurtain.co.uk L’Ecrivain
Restaurant Sat Bains
Chris Eden
Murcott Hunstanton Derry Clarke
Sat Bains Nut Tree The Neptune enquiries@lecrivain.com
www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk Mike North
www.restaurantsatbains.com Kevin Mangeolles Greenhouse
Wiltshire Baslow www.nuttreeinn.co.uk Mickael Viljanen
Fischer’s at Baslow Hall heneptune.co.uk
The Dining Room at Whatley Channel Islands - La Pulente Fife info@thegreenhouserestaurant.ie
Rupert Rowley Ocean
Manor The Peat Inn Heron & Grey
www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk Mark Jordan
Martin Burge Geoffrey Smeddle Damien Grey
www.whatleymanor.com/restaurants- Grasmere www.theatlantichotel.com/dining/ heronandgrey@gmail.com
Forest Side www.thepeatinn.co.uk
and-bars/the-dining-room ocean-restaurant Galway
Kevin Tickle Ambleside
Channel Islands - St. Helier The Samling Aniar
www.theforestside.com
 Birkenhead
Fraiche
Ormer by Shaun Rankin
Shaun Rankin
www.ormerjersey.com
Nick Edgar
www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk
Whitstable
Enda McEvoy
food@aniarrestaurant.ie
Loam
United Kingdom Marc Wilkinson
www.restaurantfraiche.com
Port Isaac The Sportsman Enda McEvoy
Outlaw's Fish Kitchen info@loamgalway.com
Windermere Stephen Harris
City of Edinburgh Nathan Outlaw
www.thesportsmanseasalter.co.uk Kilkenny
21212 Gilpin Hotel & Lake House www.outlaws.co.uk/fishkitchen Campagne
www.thegilpin.co.uk Ireland Kingham Garrett Byrne
Winchcombe East Grinstead Patrick Guilbaud The Wild Rabbit info@campagne.ie
5 North St Gravetye Manor Patrick Guilbaud Tim Allen Lady Helen at Mount Juliet
Gus George Blogg www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie www.thewildrabbit.co.uk Hotel
www.5northstreetrestaurant.co.uk www.gravetyemanor.co.uk Padstow Ilfracombe Ken Harker
Birmingham Oakham Paul Ainsworth at No.6 Thomas Carr @ The Olive info@mountjuliet.ie
Adam's Hambleton Hall Paul Ainsworth Room Belfast
Adam Stokes Aaron Patterson www.paul-ainsworth.co.uk Thomas Carr Eipic
www.adamsrestaurant.co.uk www.hambletonhall.com Hampton in Arden www.thomascarrchef.co.uk Danni Barry
Highland Marlborough Peel's at Hampton Manor Sparkwell info@michaeldeane.co.uk
Albannach Harrow at Little Bedwyn Hotel Treby Arms OX
Colin Craig Roger Jones Rob Palmer Anton Piotrowski Stephen Toman
www.thealbannach.co.uk www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com hamptonmanor.com www.thetrebyarms.co.uk info@oxbelfast.com
 Bel & Dragon, Godalming,
Surrey
Stunning 19th Century converted church in
a picturesque market town, conveniently
located four miles south of Guildford and
30 miles south west of London. Godalming
is a primarily residential town in the
affluent borough of Waverley, voted one
of the best places to live in the UK in 2015.
Would suit alternative use STPP. Offers
invited for freehold inter-est, alternatively,
new free-of-tie lease available.

Unit 26, Milsom Place, Bath 30 St Martins Lane, London

Located within the fashionable Milsom 3,483 sq ft over ground, first floor and
Quarter in the World Heritage city of basement, situated in the heart of
Bath, within a series of beautiful Georgian Covent Garden’s Theatreland, close to
buildings, terraces and open courtyards. Leicester Square and Trafalgar Square.
The 1,453 sq ft first floor unit is positioned It is becoming an increasingly exciting
opposite Cote Brasserie overlooking the destination for eating and drinking, most
one of the main courtyards. Stunning recently joined by Fumo by the San Carlo
vaulted roof space with capped services Group on St Martin’s Lane, as well as Mr
and approximately 200 sq ft of exterior Foggs Tavern, J.Sheekey and Asia de Cuba.
seating.

Central Cross, Newport

Court, London
Central Cross is a brand new retail and
restaurant community in London’s West
End, positioned at a key thoroughfare
in the West End where Covent Garden,
Soho and Leicester Square all meet.
Part of a dynamic creative and cultural
hub that’s home to world-beating
brands and businesses, units are
between 3,561 sq ft and 4,314 sq ft plus
external seating.
I n d u s try T o p i c : by Ben Tish

London Bridge
and the Borough Market

The recent terror attacks on Borough market in London

Bridge were clearly abominable and cowardly as all terrorist
attacks are however this one really resonated with my industry
friends and me. Any number of people I know (or indeed me or my
family), could have quiet easily been there, enjoying the bars and
restaurants around the market and we certainly knew the owners of
the restaurants’ involved in the atrocities.
12
13
 M
ore over Borough market has become
a kind of spiritual home for the food
and drink industry over the years and
the attack struck a serious blow that resonated
throughout the food world.
Following on from the attack the support and
solidarity has been overwhelming for the traders
and restaurateurs with donations, vigils and
massive support form all angles.
We are so lucky to have one of the best food
markets in the world that now has become as
much of a London destination as the houses of
parliament.
Borough market as an actual “market” dates back
to 1215 when it specialized in corn- its moved on
over the centuries and it was in the Nineteenth
century that the market became the go to
wholesale food market in London where anything
could be bought and haggled for.
The market as we know today developed in the
90s with an increasing interest in Artisan foods
from the public. Pioneers of this movement
such as Monica Linton of Brindisa and Randolph
Hodgson of Neal’s Yard dairy set up whole sale
units in the empty spaces on the market and
then opened up the doors to the foodie public to
sample and buy their produce. A slow burner at
first but its on took off and the markets we know
it developed from there- Ginger Pig butchers,
Turnips fresh vegetables and the legendary
Monmouth coffee house followed and soon the
market opened up at the weekends to the public
14 I nd u stry T opic : b y B e n T i s h
and then late week. Restaurants such as Roast
followed and sat next to brilliant old market cafes
selling their bacon and egg sarnies not only to
the early morning traders and drivers but also to
middle class foodies shopping for their Nocellara
olives, 5 years aged iberico ham and Hereford
Cote de beouf.
I’ve been going to the market for years, to
browse in awe at the unbeatable array of
amazing produce (when I first arrived in London
I couldn’t afford much down there) to have a
pint in the lively market pubs such as the Market
Porter or the Lord Clyde but most of all to soak
up the natural atmosphere of the market and
camaraderie of the workers – everyone seemed
to know each other and have a little time together,
help each other- quite alien for London really!
Over the past recent years the market has been
knocked for becoming tourist focus with inflated
prices and some of the old stall holders and
traders have upped sticks and moved to nearly
Maltby street market to create a mini version of
the original- albeit limited to Saturday mornings
and evenings. Cheaper pitch fees and more
authentic market feel are cited as the reasons.
Maltby Street does things very well and has a
super cool, “in the know” atmosphere but you still
can’t fail to be knocked back by the sheer diversity
and colour of Borough. Even after its most
recent smarting up (creating tidy loos, a food
demonstration area and a high Borough market
shop) the market retains its integrity. Part of my
training programme for new chefs is for them to
spend a day down the market, visiting suppliers,
browsing and eating, I then encourage them to do
this monthly- they’ll always come back inspired.
Nowadays I love to head down there on a Friday
when the markets fully open but not at full tilt (on
a Saturday it can be ridiculously busy) and spend
a couple of hours wondering around, discovering
new products and suppliers, chatting to the
traders and picking up something delicious and
unusual for dinner. Ill always learn something
too and be inspired by a new ingredients or a
new street food offering. However, even after all
these years down the market I’m still often drawn
to one of Boroughs most legendary takeaways-
Brindisas chorizo roll (large with alioli please)
sold out of a hole in the wall of their wholesale
shop- its been a crowd pleaser from day one. So
simple yet so effective and this is largely down
to the quality of the ingredients of course. The
queues snake around the block on Saturdays for
this delight.
Final stop before home will be to head to tapas
Brindisa for a couple of sherry’s with my great
pal Rudi (Brindisa ambassador and face to
remember)- a well known character on the
market and someone who’s been there from
the start renaissance. As we sit and drink the
sherry’s people stop to chat, shake hands and
chew the fat- its an oasis of familiarity, old
friends and old timers.
Here Rudi shares the secret for the famous
Chorizo sandwich and more importantly what to
drink with it.
Recipe by Rudi
Chorizo roll close up double
When Brindisa moved its warehouse to
Borough Market in the early 90s the area
was empty and unknown. We opened our
warehouse at the weekends to the public and
all our visitors were invited to enjoy a grilled
chorizo from our barbeque.
We have not stopped since and when we
moved on to the market itself we took the
recipe with us. We were the first trader to be
given permission to retail on the market and
we grilled our chorizo there as a way of giving
our customers a chance to taste one of our
most popular Spanish products.
There has been no looking back and I would
say this popular sandwich which has been
offered at Borough by Brindisa since 1996
propelled the chorizo to become the household
name it is today.
 
At our Chorizo Grill outside the Borough
Market shop, we have been making bollos de
chorizo a la parrilla – hot rolls with sizzling
grilled chorizo and piquillo peppers – from mid
–morning to lunchtime for over fifteen years
and they are one of the most popular things
we sell: world famous in fact, since, amazingly,
they have regularly featured in newspaper
articles in America, Italy and Japan as a must
try item if you visit Borough Market.
 For each person, you need a bread roll, cut in
half, a cooking chorizo, cut in half lengthways,
a piquillo pepper from a jar and a handful of
rocket leaves.
 
Preheat the grill, and cook the
chorizo halves for about 3 minutes, turning
halfway through (if you have a griddle pan,
you can get a nice criss-crossing effect
as you do this). Toast the roll and drizzle
with olive oil, then add the rocket leaves,
piquillo peppers and chorizo and eat
immediately.
 
INGREDIENT S
●● Bread roll (we use a chewy
sourdough roll)
●● 1 x Navarrico piquillo pepper
●● 1 x hot cooking chorizo halved
●● Handful of rocket leaves
●● Brindisa Arbequina olive oil
You can adjust quantities according to your
taste. For instance we sell individual but also
double chorizo rolls at our Borough Market
Shop. For those who decide to have double
chorizo we suggest adding two piquillo
peppers instead of one.
15
T alk to the c h e f : by Andy Lynes

Simon
Rogan
Sowing the Seeds
As Simon Rogan celebrates 15 years
of L’Enclume, big changes are afoot
in his Umbel restaurant group. Andy Lynes
met the outspoken chef on his Lake District
farm as prepares the ground for the next
chapter of his exceptional career.

16
S
imon Rogan is not someone who does
things by halves. Fifteen years ago,
the Southampton-born chef gambled
everything on opening L’Enclume, a fine dining
restaurant in a 12th-century blacksmith’s in a
remote village in the Lake District, previously
best known as the home of sticky toffee
pudding and not much else. Today, Rogan
has 16 rooms dotted around the village (with
more to come), a chic new boutique shop
selling upmarket kitchen equipment, crockery
and L’Enclume-branded aprons at £35 a pop;
Rogan and Co contemporary bistro and his
own organic farm just outside the village, not to
mention two Michelin stars and 10 out of 10 in
the Good Food Guide for his flagship restaurant.
He has achieved his aim of becoming ‘the Rick
Stein of the North’, modelling Cartmel in his
own image just as Stein has famously done
with Padstow in Cornwall.
Rogan has been equally bold with his ventures
outside of Cartmel. In 2013, he took over The
French restaurant at Manchester’s landmark
Midland Hotel and a year later opened Mr
Cooper’s House, a casual bistro in the hotel.
Soon after, it was announced that he would
open Fera in Claridges in the space formerly
under the control of Gordon Ramsay. The quick
succession of the openings seemed to indicate
that Rogan was intent on an empire-building
career path similar that of Ramsay himself.
But it wasn’t to be. In October 2016, Rogan
terminated the contract with the Midland and
then pulled out of Fera in April 2017, in both
instances leaving behind his head chefs.
‘It seemed really easy and cheap, a good deal
and quite a romantic notion to go into these
hotels, but the reality is, nine time out of ten
you’re a naughty little squatter in some part of
their building, that’s what you feel like,’ says
Rogan, who appeared visibly relaxed and happy
the day after the Claridges announcement. ‘I’ve
had the best week, I feel so invigorated. Fera,
contractually was very difficult on me. I had to
be there so many times during the week, every
week of the year and it was too much, I can’t
work like that, I need to be able to come and go
as I please. I think people were shocked by the
decision but it’s a good one all round, for them
as well. There’s new management and new
owners and they want very different things to
us. I think what we achieved there in three years
was pretty good I’m very proud of the team’.
Rogan says that Manchester became an equally
onerous arrangement. ‘It was a nightmare. You
always go in trying to integrate with people but
they don’t like integrating with you. They think
you’re arrogant and you’re this and that. At The
French there was no investment, things were

17

falling apart. When Garth the head chef of Mr
Coopers went it was a disaster, no one wanted
to work there. The product was terrible and my
name was being dragged down and it had to
go. You’ve got to have your independence’.
Freed from his contractual obligations, Rogan’s
next project will be to revive Roganic, the
temporary 28 cover restaurant that popped up
for two years in Marylebone between 2011-13.
Rogan has secured a 50-cover site, again in
Marylebone, and will be reconvening some
of the original kitchen team to run it although
original head chef Ben Spalding will not be
returning.
‘He only lasted five months out of the two
years. I liked him, he was different, but he
turned out to be a bit too different with my
money,’ says Rogan, who is relishing the chance
to take on London again his way. ‘People
say, what’s the difference between Fera and
Roganic? Well it’s mine, I can do what the
bloody hell I want. If I don’t feel like going to
London, I just don’t go. I’ll stay here in Cartmel
or go to Littlehampton to see my family who I
don’t see very often. I’ve been around the world
quite a bit in the last six months and Fera was
always on people’s lips, so if we can replicate
that in the new Roganic, and get that spirit of
the old Roganic, it will be something worth
going back to London for’.
Rogan is also planning to revive Aulis, the
intimate chef’s development table within Fera
at Claridges at a site in Soho. ‘It will have a table
for 10-12 people and be a bit like Kiln, I love that
place, but a bit more technical’.
Alongside the new openings, Rogan is shaking
up his senior team. There’ll be a new head of
development for the original Aulis at L’Enclume
which has just undergone a strikingly modern
refurbishment and a new ‘right hand man ‘ in
Cartmel who is joining from three Michelin-
starred Geranium in Copenhagen. Already in
18 T alk to the c h e f : b y A n d y L y n e s
place at Rogan and Co is Peter Smit, formerly of
Pittcue in London.
‘He’s the first head chef that’s got it. He not
competing with L’Enclume but complimenting
it. We’ve always had head chefs in there that
you’d tell them what you want, give them a
brief with the same ethos and principles and
using the same ingredients as L’Enclume but to
do things differently and don’t copy, but they’d
all start L’Encluming it up. He’s the first head
chef that hasn’t done that and I’ve got big plans
for him’.
It’s fair to say then that Rogan and his Umbel
restaurant group is in a period of transition, but
you wouldn’t know it from dining at the flagship.
My meal at L’Enclume in April this year was a 13
course tour de force with dishes like marinated
turbot with bay shrimp and kale shoots and
lightly smoked Lop eared pig with onions that
combined imagination with technique; balanced
exuberant complexity with restrained simplicity
and featured ingredients of the highest quality,
many from Rogan’s own farm.
‘This is my proudest achievement, forget
about accolades and awards. It’s the centre
of our universe,’ says Rogan as he tours me
around the 12 acre Our Farm in Cartmel Valley
established five years ago and where he
rears sheep, chickens (for eggs), Dexter cattle,
Lop eared and Mangalitsa pigs and grows a
bewildering array of produce including kohlrabi,
beetroots, peas, broad beans, kale, mustard,
woodruff, lovage, savoury, mint, parsley,
lettuces, onions, chard, potatoes, plums,
apples, pears, berries and damsons and micro-
shoots that are propagated in polytunnels
irrigated by water pumped from the nearby
river Eea. The farm employs six full time staff
plus any new recruits to the company, front of
house or kitchen, who spend a month working
on the farm.
‘They get to know the product, get to respect
it and see how it’s all done. It seems to be
de rigueur for chefs to get farms, but they’re
not really. They’re just approaching a farmer
to grow for them. We haven’t taken the easy
route, this has been designed by chefs, built
by chefs and it’s run by chefs, this is really
our farm.
‘A lot of chefs would cut their hands off for
this facility. It has cost us a lot of money and I
don’t know how long it will take to break-even
but it’s not about that. It’s about the quality of
the ingredients and ingredients you can’t buy
anywhere else. There’s no air miles, they’re not
from another country and we can use every
part of the plant including the roots, the stems,
the leaves, the flowers, the fruit, the pollen, the
buds, every part we’ll find a use for it’.
Rogan has plans to eliminate meat stock from
his kitchens and is working on a ‘magic recipe’
that will incorporate the abundance of green
leaves grown on the farm including watercress
and nettles to make a nutritious umami rich,
green leaf sauce.
‘It’s a message. I’m not a vegetarian, but I am
saying eat less meat because of what animal
agriculture is doing to our planet. We’ve got
animals but they roam free and are part of a
closed circle, they provide the compost for the
vegetable to grow, so that’s fine’.
A decade and a half on from opening
L’Enclume, the always energetic Rogan seems
more exuberant than ever. Rather than being
burnt by the inevitable compromises of working
with big business, Rogan has passed through
the fire and emerged even more confident and
focused.
‘The hotels were scared of making mistakes.
We make loads of mistakes, we’re not scared,
we do them all the time. We have a jack-of-all-
trades attitude around here, we can do it’.
 Recipe by Simon Rogan

Grilled Salad smoked over embers,

Isle of mull cheese, custard and cobnuts

Serves 4 ●● 40g picked parsley through a sieve and add more grapeseed oil
●● 3g salt to bring it back to 200g.
Salad Blanch the parsley in boiling water, refresh
●● 2 baby cabbage To garnish into ice water and squeeze dry. Blend the oil
●● 50g cavalo nero ●● Red mustard shoots with the parsley with 3g salt until you have
●● 50g curly kale ●● Mustard flowers a bright green oil and strain through a sieve
●● 25g red Russian kale ●● Truffle julienne and allow to cool.
●● 1 large head cauliflower
●● 1 large head broccoli METHOD Salad
●● 1 celeriac Cheese Sauce Cut all the different vegetables into even
Melt the cheese into the water at 80oC and let sized pieces and florets. Set up your big
Isle of mull cheese froth to stand for 30 minutes. green egg in the usual way and burn out the
●● 500g Isle of mull cheese grated Allow the solids to settle to the bottom and charcoal, close the bottom vent 2/3 of the
●● 450g water pour of the liquid gently, pass this through way and close the top daisy wheel halfway
●● xanthan gum fine sieve; add xanthan to achieve a sauce like so only the small holes are open. Cook on a
●● Salt and pepper consistency, season with salt. Heat and aerate big green egg pizza stone over the embers
with a hand blender when required. at 200-250oC, constantly turning the
Truffle custard vegetables and introducing cherry wood
●● 200ml milk Truffle custard chips to the embers to create the smoke,
●● 200ml double cream Bring the milk and cream to the simmer and closing the lid each time. Season with salt.
●● 30g truffle finely chopped add the truffle. Take of the heat and infuse for
●● 3 yolks 15 minutes. Crack the yolks and egg into a bowl, To serve
●● 1 egg whisk in the truffle cream and allow to cool. Place a spoon of truffle custard onto the
●● Salt Pour into a ceramic dish, cover with cling film plate and arrange the grilled vegetables
and steam until just set and allow to cool. around. Place the mustard frill, flowers on
Chili herb oil top and a drizzle of garlic oil.
●● 50g chopped garlic Garlic oil Finish with sprinkling over the fresh truffle
●● 1 small chopped chili and half the seed Bring up the garlic, chili and grapeseed julienne and spooning over some of the
●● 200g grapeseed oil oil from cold and cook until golden. Strain cheese froth.

19
Cooking in unusual Places by Claire Bosi

HMS Triumph
Our Premier Leagues,
under the Sea

20
 In the world of high
pressure and high profile
kitchens, it is all too easy to become
a bit, well, insular. We forget that,
actually, we play a minor part in
the catering industry. We think we
work the hardest, we think we have
the most challenging conditions.
We believe that consistency and
attention to detail are badges of
honour worn solely by our own
brow beaten, knackered chefs. A
chef with multiple AA rosettes or
Michelin stars is a hero, a legend, a
model of total awesomeness. We
stalk their pictures on social media,
flock to buy their cookbooks, make
pilgrimages to their temples of
gastronomy. Nobody has it harder.
We are the toughest, most dedicated
and infinitely talented artists of the
culinary world.

21
 M
y brother’s a submariner. For the past
25 years David has headed away, for
months on end, often returning to shore
a funny yellowish colour from the lack of natural
sunlight. He has made friends for life, his team
playing and leadership skills are second to none,
he has worked through the ranks to the illustrious
position of Commander. He has travelled the
world, had life changing experiences and earned
a pretty pay packet in the process. But through
all his years, I had never visited a submarine. And
I had never considered how these boys and girls
actually live when away for months on end.

Ever curious to discover alternatives in the

catering industry, I was granted a rare and
exclusive access on board HMS Triumph in
the Naval base of Devonport to speak to their
chefs about submarine life and visit their
kitchen and storage facilities.

HMS Triumph, is one of four Trafalgar class

submarines. Launched in 1991, Triumph is the
tenth Royal Navy vessel of that name, and the
second submarine. The first HMS Triumph,
launched in 1562, was a 58-gun galleon.

Weighing in at 5298 tonnes and at 85.4 metres

long, HMS Triumph is a hunt and destroy vessel
that, over time, has been adapted to perform
other tasks including covert surveillance. She
carries 130 personnel of which up to 20 will be
officers and can travel unsupported for up to 3
months.

The training to become a Royal Navy Chef has

several phases. Firstly, you will undertake 10
weeks of basic Military training, learning skills
essential for those joining the Royal Navy.
Secondly, you will complete a 26 week catering
course based at the training facility, HMS Raleigh.
With dedicated catering facilities, training
kitchens and classrooms, your time at HMS
Raleigh will be spent covering every aspect of
cooking, baking, nutrition and budgeting. You
will leave Raleigh with a minimum of NVQ level
2 and also benefit from completing associated
business qualifications.
Upon passing those two phases, you will then
begin your first year as a Royal Navy Chef. Unless
you wish to become a Submariner. Those who
want just that, then embark on further training.
It is known as the ‘wet training’. Survival under
water, evacuation and escape simulation, is
probably the loosest description of it.
So, my day begins. I am met at Devonport by
the MOD Press office. Once cleared through
security, I am allowed access to the base.
Welcomed by Lieutenant Tom Hardgrave of HMS
Vanguard, I am then introduced to LCH (Leading
Logistician Chef) Peter Lovegrove, LCH Joe Bass,
CH (Logistician Chef) Chris Geoghegan and POCS
(Petty Officer Catering Services) Shane Reed.
A short stroll across the dockyard, passing
Engineers and Raitings quick and keen to salute
my companions, I was passed though yet more
security and was then called forward to receive
my health and safety briefing. Remembering
the ‘three-point contact” when ascending or
descending ladders was essential, likewise
“Please do not press any buttons, or turn any
valves. If you do, please let one of us know” (it
was as though they had been forewarned of my
tendency to fidget).
Only a third of HMS Triumph is visible to the
eye when she is docked, the rest is underwater.
Even so, the austere greyness of the vessel, the
steely harsh exterior can never prepare you for
what lies beneath.
Remembering my three-point contact (and
secretly congratulating myself for leaving the
stilletos and pencil skirts back home in favour of
slacks and converse) I descend down a totally
vertical ladder into the hub of HMS Triumph.
I enter into a confusing environment of long, low,
narrow corridors. Navy blue curtains are here and
there (no doors on a submarine, just curtains).
Hundreds of lights, switches, dials, valves and
more. A whole engine room of technology
that allows HMS Triumph and its crew of 130 to
disappear, unaided, undetected and underwater
for months at a time.
In the lead up to my visit, I had given much
thought to what I expected to find by way of a
kitchen on a submarine. I have seen and worked
with a number of professional kitchens that

22
operate on many levels. The tiny domestic kitchen
that Shaun Hill ran at the Merchant House for his
24 cover Michelin starred restaurant, to the huge,
Athanor-stoved, expensively kitted out, stainless
steel warship of a kitchen at Hibiscus in Maddox
street. I guess I kind of expected to discover a
hybrid between the two.
Turning right from the passageway of corridors,
I follow Chris, Peter and Joe through an entrance
way. “Here we are”, I am told.
I am in an area 12ft square. It is smaller than
most of your walk-in fridges. There’s hardly any
equipment. Three or four electric rings, a couple
of tiny electric ovens, a small steam oven, one
domestic under counter fridge and a large Hobart
mixer are all I can see.
For a couple of minutes, I think I am at
the centre of a practical joke organised
by my brother, and that the real kitchen is
located elsewhere on the submarine. This
simply cannot be the kitchen that feeds
130 personnel three times a day for three
months. That’s over 30,000 meals.
But this is no joke. This is their Kitchen, to us,
Galley, to them. It’s the creativity space and
the home to guys like Peter, Joe and Chris.
Cramped for space, the chefs work seven
days per week, two during the day and one
throughout the night. The ceilings are low, and
the extraction fans fierce.
I know what you are all thinking by now,
because when I have spoken to chefs about
my visit, they have all said the same thing. “the
food is pre-prepared though”. Let me tell you
now. It totally isn’t.
The galley, the chefs and the food they serve is
the heart and soul of the submarine. Most of the
time, when the submarine is away, there is little
or no communication back home. Food plays an
essential role in the morale of the crew. Nobody
needs 130 hangry (a state of mind from being
both hungry and angry) personnel tucked up
together in a 5300 tonne, iron cylinder, hundreds
and hundreds of metres under the sea.
Lt Hardgrave explains to me how the Royal
Navy take this extremely seriously. Whilst the
chefs on board have the freedom to create
and execute their dishes to the troops, they are
firstly expected, each day, to hand their menu
over to the Captain for his approval. Adhering
to something called the Moral Component of
Operational Capability, otherwise known as
MCOC, the menus have to pass inspection as
being good for the morale of the crew on board.
If the boss thinks the dishes won’t be suitable,
if the crew are tired, or moods need boosting,
the chefs have the job of creating feel good food
whilst still keeping it nutritionally balanced and
within budget.
23
 Great pride is taken by the chefs when it comes
to the food they prepare. 390 bread rolls are
baked, through the night, every night, to serve the
following day. There are regular steak nights on
a Saturday, a full Sunday Roast, fish on Fridays
and themed evenings with Mexican, Asian or
American feasts. Everything is prepared in their
kitchens by the three chefs.
A full cooked breakfast, a two course lunch and
a two course, two option evening meal is the
general format for a days “Scran”. Alongside this
are cakes, biscuits and other snacks throughout
the working day. All of this is cooked, from
scratch, every day. In a kitchen that you literally
could not swing the ships cat in.
In awe of the chefs, and still finding the size of
the kitchen pretty incomprehensible, I ask if I
can visit their storage facilities on board. They
must have great storage, I thought, to be able
to carry the quantity of food needed for 130
blokes for three months.
Chris and Joe lead me to an area at the end of the
submarine. This is an area which can be isolated
from the rest of the submarine in the event of a
fire, an attack, or some other happening which
requires the crew to be made safe from the rest
of the vessel. It is where they regroup and await
instructions as to whether to evacuate, by filling
their suits with air and escaping through the
tunnel into the open sea, or wait for assistance.
24
There is a trunk of high energy barley sugar for
nutrition, clean oxygen and water.
To the left of the evacuation area is a metal door.
Chris pulls it open and shows me inside to a
storage area, basically a void, approximately 10ft
by 6ft in size. This void, upon leaving Devonport
on a 3 month mission, is filled with 120 kilos of
potatoes. So full, in fact, that care has to be taken
when opening the door and, if an Engineer needs
to get to the back of the area for any maintenance
work, he literally has to tunnel through and over
the potatoes to get there.
Leading the way, Peter shows me a small freezer
under the floor, which is around 8ft by 5ft by 4ft
high and a cold room adjacent to it that is a little
bigger. Here the boys store their meat, fish and
dairy. They start the voyage with fresh, moving on
to frozen when those stocks are depleted.
Dry stores are about the same size as the potato
storage, at the opposite end of the vessel. Here,
they carry all dry goods, flour, spices, cereals,
pastas etc. This is also where they store the UHT
milk and tray upon tray of eggs. Every centimetre
of space is utilised, under the stairs, down small
gaps. Wherever they can store food, they will.
Again, this area is so full upon departure that they
have to enter cautiously to prevent a landslide.
From empty to full, and ready to leave, it takes the
chefs around 48-72 hours to stock HMS Triumph
with enough food for an entire voyage.
Petty Officer Shane Reed explains the ordering
process.
With a budget of £2.98 per man, per day, the
chefs on board are responsible for ordering and
receiving all the provisions required for their
journey. Working with one major contractor,
Purple foodservice is a name that is mentioned,
they look at availability, cost and suitability
before placing the order. Each vessel is run as
though it is its own independent business, the
chefs are responsible in ensuring the budget is
adhered to. Regular inspections and audits are
common.
Out of the submarine and back on dry land,
I get chatting to the guys about how they
became Royal Navy Chefs. Peter, Joe and
Chris all joined up at a young age, around 18.
Interestingly, Shane joined at the age of 27.
Shane had already been working as a chef in
hotels and restaurants. Disillusioned with the
industry, but wanting to do more with his talent
and make a difference, he decided to enlist. He
has “never looked back”, he adds.
Inter-Military and International cookery
competitions are something that happen
annually and are World Class. The chefs are
experts at serving top quality food to the crew
whilst they are away, and catering on a large
scale. However, every now and again, when
moored in a foreign country, the Officers and
Captain will invite dignitaries to suppers catered
for by these chefs. These boys know how to pull
fine dining out of the bag that could challenge
many restaurant chefs. They are as at home
creating intricate, delicate dishes with the finest
ingredients as they are cooking a full Sunday
lunch for 130 hungry men.
Regular competition work helps to keep ideas
and techniques fresh, and gives the boys an
opportunity to really stretch themselves and
show what they can do. Joe & Chris were recently
able to represent HMS Triumph and compete
successfully against other Naval chefs. They
prepared, cooked and served dishes such as
“Grilled King Prawns, Pickled Vegetables & Salsa
Verde” followed by “Spicy slow cooked Beef,
Smoked Sweet Potato, Chorizo” finishing with
“Spiced Apple Tarte Fine, Cinnamon Ice Cream
& Honey Butter”. This competition work is
encouraged by the Royal Navy. They are, rightly
so, proud of the talent these boys have.
I could speak for hours, and write many more
pages about the incredible work these chefs do.
They work 12 hours a day, seven days a week.
Their living quarters are practically non-existent.
Bunk beds, difficult to get in and out of are piled
three or four high. There is no gym, nowhere to
exercise and not a lot to do, apart from work. At
either side of the kitchen are the Mess halls. The
crew serve their own food through hatches into
the kitchen. The Junior Mess is there to be used
by 60-70 boys. The Senior Mess, by 30. The
Officers Mess is used by 20 or so men and is
across the corridor from the kitchen. Their food is
collected by stewards, plated, and served on fine
china with highly polished silver cutlery. These
Mess halls are their only recreational space, yet
they are about as big as a large double bedroom.
The mental strength and capacity required to be a
submarine chef goes above and beyond what any
restaurant or hotel chef has. They cannot have a
bad service and go for a walk to clear their heads.
They cannot get away from their brigade for two
days a week, and they see the same punters
every single day. Yet it is clear that Peter, Joe, Chris
and Shane take extreme pride in their job and
wouldn’t change it for the world. They are lifetime
friends, with amazing career prospects who all
say that, upon retirement, they will open their own
places – whether it be a pub, or restaurant. The
camaraderie between them is something I am
slightly envious of.
Looking on the Royal Navy Website, there are two
words that stood out to me, and proved to me just
how highly the Royal Navy value their catering
services. A Chef is in the category “high priority”.
They are valued, encouraged and admired by
their crew and that is cemented further when I
listen to Lt Hardgrave talk about them.
Light-hearted chat at the end of the day sees
the boys throwing names we all know around
as inspirations to them. Michel Roux Jr is the
firm favourite. Gordon Ramsay, for another,
and Marco Pierre White. Their eyes light up
when they speak of them, and they know
dishes they have cooked and programmes
they have been on.
The hospitality industry can learn so much
about teamwork, effort and dedication from
our Royal Navy Chefs. They have to train as
fire fighters & first aiders as standard. They
have to patrol the submarine carrying a rifle
when it is moored. They are feeding the
troops that are protecting our nation.
Without question, we have some talented
chefs cooking some of the best food in the
world in our restaurants. Peter, Joe, Chris and
Steve, like many of you chefs out there, are
full of admiration of some of our industries
key players. In my opinion – that’s the wrong
way round. It should be our industry and
Chefs like Michel, Gordon and Marco that are
full of admiration for these boys.
With thanks to the Royal Navy Press Office,
HMS Triumph, in particular:
Lt Tom Hardgrave, LCH Peter Lovegrove, LCH
Joe Bass, CH Chris Geoghegan, POCS Shane
Reed.
25
 “Cymru am
For those of you who may not know- because it seems
many folk won’t travel further than 30 miles in each
direction away from London for a decent meal – Wales is a small,
yet perfectly formed, mountainous country to the west of England.

26
byth”

27
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s
T
he land of the mythical King Arthur, with
its alphabet that doesn’t include the letters
K,Q,V and Z has, over recent years, had
the good fortune to play home and business to
some of our finest chefs and restaurateurs.
Intrigued to understand more about this country
and its population of just 3 million people, I
was invited to Taste Wales, a major food and
drink conference, at the spectacular Celtic
Manor resort. There, I learnt how the Welsh
Government with its “Food and Drink Wales”
programme is working tirelessly to promote
what the country has to offer.
An embargoed press release, sent before
the event, informed me of Project HELIX, an
investment of £21 million announced by the
28
Welsh Government Cabinet Secretary for
Environment and Rural Affairs. When this
landed in my inbox I thought “this has to be great
for the Restaurant industry too” so off I headed…
“Project HELIX is a pan Wales strategic initiative
developed by Food Innovation Wales, which is a
partnership of the three food centres in Wales,
Project HELIX will support small and medium sized
companies over the next five years through a
range of knowledge transfer initiatives:
 Innovation –fast-tracking new innovative
products and food company start-ups
 Efficiency – including assisting
businesses to reduce waste during
food processing thereby securing costs
savings and waste reduction
 Strategy – seeking to ensure a world-class
industry through advanced skills in key
areas such as food technology 
The £21 million funding for the project is
enabled through the Welsh Government Rural
Communities – Rural Development Programme
2014-2020, which is funded by the European
Agricultural Fund for Rural Development and the
Welsh Government”.
Food and Drink Wales have some great ideas.
Business clusters for example offer companies
key development opportunities and support
with Peer to Peer knowledge exchange, cost
and resource sharing, events and workshops
amongst some of their specific support. The
Welsh Seafood Cluster, The Fine Foods Wales
Cluster, The Drinks Development Cluster are a
few that stand out as real success stories and,
let’s face it, a damned good idea.
So, all of this is fantastic. A country putting
real effort into promoting and growing its food
and drink industry, with proper investment and
strategies. However, I feel they have overlooked
something very important.
I understand the need for growth in areas such
as export, and the viability for all food and drink
manufacturers and producers to invest and
grow. But what has happened to the Cluster
group for our Chefs, Restaurants and Hotels?
More often than not, Chefs are the ones
championing food and drink producers whether
it be on TV, Radio or in print. The country is
proud of its food tourism, yet without these they both impact on hospitality. Finding staff
Chefs and their Michelin Stars would they still that will stay for the love of their job, rather
have as much to shout about? than a large pay packet seems more and more
difficult. Finding customers happy to pay
As Bryan Webb of Tyddyn Llan says, there is a inflated menu prices to balance out the ever-
great friendship between all the Michelin starred growing costs is a challenge in itself. Throw in
Chef in Wales, and sitting nicely, alongside the the continuously changing legislation and you
starred places, are other great restaurants. begin to question just why this ever felt like a
These are encouraging more and more visitors good idea in the first place!
to Wales.
I appreciate that the issues I rant on about
But friendship can only get you so far, and in above are UK wide hospitality problems, not
these times, our Chefs and their restaurants simply Wales. Wales Food and Drink offer
need as much support as our Government can amazing work and project HELIX is, of course,
give them. We are already stuck with the VAT a breakthrough idea. It is reassuring that our
scenario – which is diabolical for the industry. food and drink producers are getting the support
Minimum wage and maximum working hours they need. But it would be even better if this
are, of course, essential. We all know how extended to their hospitality providers too…
29
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Stephane Borie
Checkers
Cooking in Michel
Roux Senior’s three
Michelin star kitchen
was invaluable
The family run restaurant of
Checkers in Montgomery, Powys
can be found just across the English/Welsh
borders. A former coaching inn, run by
Stephane Borie and his partner Sarah, was
awarded a Michelin Star in 2011. Sarah’s
sister, Kathryn oversees the front of house
operation and her approach has been
described as both warm and informal.

S
tephane, trained under Michel Roux Sr, left France for London in his “It was a traditional village pub and looking back it was a bold, but essential,
early 20’s. He had a brief stint at L’Escargot, but headed off to the move where we learnt a lot – not least that there was a market for what we
Waterside Inn, where he stayed for seven years. do on the marches borderland”.

“Cooking in Michel Roux Senior’s three Michelin star kitchen was invaluable, After two years they moved three miles up the road and into Wales. The
there is no sounder base to classic French cooking - flavour and the Checkers sits on the town square in Montgomery. Spending over 18 months
harmony of a dish remain my priority”. giving the premises a complete overhaul it was finally opened in March 2011.

The Waterside Inn was then followed by a year’s private service for Sir Able to hit the ground running, the trio benefitted from an existing customer
Anthony Bamford before Stephane took on the lease of The Herbert Arms base and were thrilled and astounded to be awarded a Michelin star in the
at Chirbury in Shropshire. October of that year.

30
Stephane describes the style of his cooking as classical French.
This, he finds, can make recruitment of chefs rather difficult. He
has struggled, and it took a while, but Stephane now has an
exceptional team. “The classic style of my cooking lacks appeal
to many prospective chefs in the UK which is a great shame. To
recruit the calibre of chef we need, who really want to master the
fundamentals of classic French cooking, we usually look to France”.
Front of house is easier, and this is no doubt a credit to Kathryn and
Sarah. “Guests enjoy being looked after by a local team. Having
knowledge of the area and its history, the staff can engage with
their guests and enhance their overall stay at Checkers”.
Describing Montgomery as a “beautiful place for guests to visit, and a
beautiful space to live and work” the trio have clearly found their home at
Checkers.
“I can’t think of anywhere else I would like my kids to grow up.
The produce here is sensational, and the surrounding countryside
stunning. But you have to be brave and embrace all the area has
to offer. No one thought there would be a market for us here
seven years ago, but our guests love it and we need to shout
about it more. The remoteness and stillness of Wales should be
celebrated”.
31
 Describing flavour and quality as “our priority”, Stephane has been delighted
to discover that many of his local Welsh suppliers can deliver just that.
“Three key suppliers spring to mind – all Welsh and all delivering
consistently excellent produce.
We have used Neuadd Fach for pork since our very early days – our crisp
pork belly has a very loyal following and this is due in no small part to the
superb quality of Linda’s produce.
Castell Howell is a large distributor in Wales and flies the flag for Welsh
produce - for us the star of the show is Celtic Pride beef. This Welsh beef
delivers every time on flavour, quality and consistency and you really cannot
ask for more.
32 A rea P rofile : W a l e s
Our cheese soufflé is made with a beautiful oak smoked cheddar from
Blaenafon in South Wales. It is a Checkers favorite – we have tried it with
other cheeses but the delicate smoky undertone and depth of flavor the
Blaenafon cheddar offers just cannot be beaten.
The showcase of Welsh produce extends to the wine list too. Penarth
vineyard is a short drive from Checkers. A viable competitor to European
fizz, the Penarth sparkling wines offer their guests a local alternative to the
more traditional celebratory bubbles.
A sensible work/life balance (Checkers is open from Tuesday to Saturday
and closed for two full days per week) creates a happy and productive
team. Stephane has many professional moments to be proud of and to
shout about. “Getting that star, for sure. I have spent years striving to
learn more, do more, do better. To be awarded the star after 7 months
here was beyond amazing. But asked what we are proudest of? It’s
seeing our restaurant full and buzzing, serving the food we love to our
paying guests, and being our own bosses”
Time and experience give you confidence and assuredness.
Checkers is most definitely running successfully on two fronts, as a
perfectly slick operation and as an incredible lifestyle. With a down
to earth approach and a genuine love for his craft, Stephane has
some good advice for those setting out now “Don’t let the praise go
to your head and similarly don’t let the critics get you down. This is a
tough industry and a thick skin will be one of your best assets!”
Checkers, Broad Street, Montgomery, Powys 01686 669822
www.checkerswales.co.uk
 L L A N L LY R

P R E M I U M WAT E R A N D M I X E R S

The Perfect Complement ...

Amplify flavour and magnify purity

Pure natural water is the essenal ingredient

that allows flavour to flourish

www.llanllyrsource.com
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Restaurant
James Sommerin
Five miles
south west
from the Welsh capital
of Cardiff is a town in
the Vale of Glamorgan
called Penarth. Home
to a population of over
22,000, it became home
to James Sommerin and
his wife, Louise in 2014.

34
H
aving left his native Wales for Scotland at the age of 16, James
faithfully returned to his homeland with his wife, Louise, and young
daughter. Taking a position of sous chef at the Crown at Whitebrook
in 2000, he was appointed head chef three years on. James won his
first Michelin star there in 2007. With a non-Michelin pedigree it was an
incredible achievement. James held this star until leaving the Crown in 2013.
“After 13 years of working at the Crown, the next step in my career was to
open my own place. We were approached and the timing seemed right.
It has been a hard journey since opening, but one we would not change.
You are just constantly learning and hopefully evolving’.
Approached by a developer of the site in Penarth, James and Louise were
asked if they would consider opening a restaurant there. Having visited the
site, it became clear to the couple that this was something quite special.
With the couples own drawings and interior design requests, the restaurant
was built and opened in the May of that year. Nine luxurious bedrooms
overlooking the Severn Estuary, an elegantly understated restaurant and ‘hub
of the kitchen’ chefs table are all packaged together beautifully. The result is
a restaurant with rooms destination hotspot.
James has embraced the relationships he has forged with suppliers
and producers over time, and wholeheartedly believes in the Welsh
Governments food tourism plan. “Wales has a lot of destination
restaurants and the produce here is superb. 90% of our produce is
sourced from local suppliers. Our butcher, Douglas Willis, is based in
Cwmbran, our fish is from our local Cardiff fishmonger, Ashtons, and
we also use local fruit and veg suppliers. All of these are family run
businesses”. The concept of forming a cooperative and collaborative
group of independent restaurateurs in Wales is something they feel
could be beneficial and would be keen to be involved in.
James Sommerin’s style could be described as contemporary.
Championing local produce, with an allegiance to seasonality, James
shows respect for his ingredient by carefully allowing it to become
the star of the show. Nothing is overcomplicated, and although his
approach is a modern one, James expertly orchestrates that difficult task
of ‘keeping it simple’.
The pursuit of perfect personnel has been challenging both in the front
of house and in the kitchen. Finding that chefs wanting to work at a
Michelin star level often head to larger cities such as London has been
frustrating although at the moment both areas seem to have settled
with great teams, “Touch wood” James adds!
A new chef, with big ideas, in a small town can make you feel like a bit of
an outsider. Especially when that chef has appeared on television many
times. It was important to James and Louise that they were accepted by
the local community. The restaurant was a big change for Penarth. “We
are a family run business that wanted to fit in” Louise adds “We feel we
have achieved this now. We live in Penarth and our girls attend the local
schools. We certainly feel like part of the community.”
Whereas winning the star at the Crown back in 2007 was a
tremendous achievement, James holds winning his star at
Restaurant James Sommerin as his proudest professional moment
to date, “Achieving it at my restaurant, with my name above the
door, and Louise and Georgia (his daughter) working there with me,
had so much more meaning. This was for us, not someone else.
It was also a personal goal for myself as doubts were there as to
whether I was still good enough.”
Well, undeniably, James Sommerin star is in the ascendant and, looking back
in time, he wouldn’t have changed a thing in his career, “I wouldn’t change
anything I have done since I started cooking all those years ago. I have always
had, at the back of my mind, my own personal advice. Question everything,
never think you know it all, never stop learning. I have been cooking since I
was 16, I am still learning and always question myself.”
35
 Recipe by James Sommerin

Liquid Pea Ravioli with Serrano Ham,

Crispy Sage and Paremsan Emulsion
Ingredients for pasta
●● 325g Semolina
●● 200g Pasta flour
●● 4-5 eggs
●● 1tsp olive oil

Method
1. Using a thermomix, place semolina and
flour in a thrmo jug and mix on speed 4.
2. Gradually add in each egg and oil to form
a dough.
3. Remove from jug and knead for 15-20
minutes. Place in cling film and leave for
approx 1hr prior to use.

Ingredients for Pea filling

●● 1/2kg frozen peas
●● 20g sage (chopped)
●● 3 shallots (finely chopped)
●● 1 clove garlic (finely chopped)
●● 50g butter
●● 100ml cream
●● 100ml whole milk

Method
1. Place butter, garlic, shallots and sage into
a pan and sweat for 3-4 minutes.
2. Add the frozen peas. Ingredients for crispy sage 2. Remove from the heat and season.
3. In a seperate pan, combine cream and ●● sage – desireed amount 3. When ready to use gently re-heat to no
milk and bring to the boil. greater than 70ºc.
4. Then, pour over the pea mixture. 1. Deep fry @170ºc for 2 minutes or until crisp. 4. Then, aerate with a hand blender to
5. Place the mixture into a theromix and 2. Remove and drain on a jay cloth, season form a foam.
blend until smooth. with salt.
6. Pass through a fine sieve and season to taste. To make ravioli
7. Chill quickly over ice to reatin colour. Ingredients for crispy serrano 1. Remove pasta from cling film roll using
8. Pout into silicon dome moulds and freeze ham a pasta machine on setting 6.
for a minimum 12 hours before a use. ●● 6 slices of serrano ham 2. Lightly egg wash and place the frozen
(retain some liquid to use later). pea domes down the centre of the
Method pasta, 2-3 cm apart.
Ingredients for crushed peas 1. Place serrano ham on a grill rack with a 3. Place another sheet of pasta over the
●● 200g frozen peas tray underneath to catch any fat. top and use a 4cm cutter to cut and seal
●● 1 shallot (finely chopped) 2. Bake @ 180ºc for 8-10 minutes. the edges.
●● 1 clove garlic (finely chopped) 3. Leave to cool and then break up. 4. Remove as much air as possible.
●● 100g butter
●● 5g sage (chopped) Ingredients for Parmesan Assembly
emulsion 1. Place ravioli into simmering water for 6
Method ●● 300g whole milk minutes.
1. Place butter, sage, shallot and garlic into ●● 100g water 2. Re-heat the crushed peas and
a pan and sweat for 3-4 minutes. ●● 100g butter parmesan emulsion.
2. Add peas and cook for further 3-4 ●● 100g grated parmesan 3. Place a spoonful of peas on to a plate
minutes, remove from heat. followed by the ravioli, few crispy sage
3. Place into a thermomix and use in Method leaves and serrano ham.
reverse setting, blend for 10seconds. 1. Place all ingredients in a pan and bring to 4. Finish with a couple of spoons of
4. Repeat until required consistency. the boil. parmesan emulsion.

37
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Sosban and the

Old Butchers
“Our aim was to pitch up on home ground
with the freedom to cook and serve the
food we love to our local audience”
Found in the heart of Menai Bridge on the Isle of Anglesey,
within an old Butcher’s Shop, Sosban (welsh for saucepan) and
the Old Butchers is a little different to most. Open only Thursday, Friday
and Saturday evenings, Stephan and Bethan Stevens offer a no choice
and no menu experience which has proven to be so successful, the
place is booked up for weeks in advance.

38
39
 S
tephen left London for the Menai
Bridge in 2011, having previously
worked in the capital, most notably,
under Marcus Wareing. Bethan, Stephens
wife, had already returned home to Anglesey
following her drama training in London.
With Macsen, the couple’s 2 year old, a full
time job in HR and Stephen working away,
it was quite a struggle. A difficult time can
often take precedence over your own well-
being, Bethan was not feeling in the best
of health. Summing up their lifestyle, the
couple decided it was time for a change.
It was then, just after they had made this
decision, that the real reason for Bethan’s
regular queasiness emerged – baby number
two was on its way.
“We looked for a property to set up a food
business”, Bethan says, “In Menai Bridge
there were lots of properties to rent. We took
a ten year lease, got the keys on the first of
November and our daughter was born on
the seventh of November! It all happened
quite quickly. With Stephen and my father
completing the refurbishment themselves, we
were able to open the doors in March 2012”.
Embracing the local community of keen
diners, the couple didn’t set out initially with
an action plan aimed at visitors. Food tourism
was never on their agenda, “Our aim was to
pitch up on home ground with the freedom to
cook and serve the food we love to our local
audience”.
Famously, Stephen has a bold and unique
approach to his food. Bucking the trend
of simply experimenting with traditional
combinations and cooking techniques,
Stephen carefully uses taste charts to create
his menus, choosing one key element of the
dish and marrying flavours from that key
ingredient that are scientifically proven to
work together. The quality and availability of
excellent produce, on their doorstep, helps to
make Stephens philosophy a reality.
“We are surrounded with amazing produce
here in Wales, the sourcing of ingredients
and researching producers and suppliers
plays a huge part in this. We’re very fortunate
to have good relationships with all our local
suppliers from Mrs Hootons, supplying home
grown fruit and vegetables on Anglesey; Sion
Llaethdy Llyn, providing all our dairy (milked
on the day) and our local Butcher, Hayden – a
family run meat supplier renowned for the
best Lamb in Wales”.
40 A rea P rofile : W a l e s
The cluster group formation to promote
Food and Drink Wales is something Bethan
and Stephen welcome, yet feel may not
be right for them, “For us, this wouldn’t be
the direction.” Bethan adds, “We’ve always
believed in creating our own footprint, our
own concept and message - the individuality
and sense of place, not to be found anywhere
else, this is already attractive. We have never
marketed the establishment. However raising
awareness that Wales DOES actually have
good restaurants can’t be a bad thing. For
those who depend on the tourist industry,
being part of a ‘body’ would play to their
advantages”.
Though only open three days per week,
the smooth, slick operation of Sosban, the
nature of the research undertaken by the
couple to find suppliers and create menus,
along with two young children in tow keeps
the Stevens extremely busy. With such a
small team, recruiting the right member
of staff can take time. They are actively
searching for that person.
“It’s a difficult one” Bethan adds, “We’ve yet
to find the right candidate. We’re a very small
team, (4 employees at the max) therefore
every member plays a huge role across the
spectrum of running the restaurant. It’s
currently just the two of us - Stephen cooking
and myself FoH. It’s very intense, with no
room for error”.
Self-belief and confidence in your approach
to running a restaurant stands you on solid
ground, especially when coupled with talent
and hard work. Although delighted to be part
of a group of chefs helping to put Wales on
the culinary map, Stephen believes if you are
going to be a successful restaurateur, you can
make it work wherever you are. Awarded their
first Michelin star, after a very short time, was
a real pinnacle of achievement for the couple.
Pair that with a consistently fully booked
restaurant and you know you are doing
something right.
The feeling of belonging and the pace of life
outside of work are elements of life in Menai
Bridge that are important to the pair. Having
these helps with the more taxing aspects of
hospitality, “We’re faced with challenges all
the time, within all respects of the ‘running’
of the business. There’s so much more to
the restaurant industry that, I suppose, we
were unaware of when we initially set out.
We’re both hands on, from the maintenance
of the property, the collection or picking of
ingredients to the creative side - development
of the menu, and of course the running of the
kitchen and dining room in service.
The greatest challenge I suppose is to
maintain the level of energy required to move
the restaurant forward at all times. To give
110% consistency is key to success....and to
enjoy doing the job every day”.
www.sosbanandtheoldbutchers.com
Sosban and the Old Butchers, Trinity House, 1
High Street, Menai Bridge, Isle of Anglesey
01248 208131
 Recipe by Stephan and Bethan Stevens

umami log

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS
●● Kale - whole leaves washed & dried 1 x Egg
●● 4 x Anchovy fillets finely chopped 200g
Olive oil
●● Teaspoon Dijon Mustard
●● Ground black pepper to season
●● 2 x tablespoon Lemon
●● 1 x Teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 x garlic clove, finely grated
●● Parmesan for topping
●● Chicken wings

For the Brine

●● 250g Malden
●● 100g Demerara sugar
●● Tablespoon whole black pepper
corns 2 ltr water
●● 5 x cloves
●● Buttermilk
●● Spice mix
●● 150g plain flour
●● 50g cornflour
●● Tablespoon Chilly powder
●● Teaspoon Paprika smoked
●● Teaspoon Paprika sweet
●● 2 x teaspoon Garlic powder
●● Teaspoon Oregano
●● Teaspoon Majoram Teaspoon Basil

Straws pasta mix

●● 2 large free range eggs 200g
Tipo ‘00’ flour
●● 125g Cheddar grated 25g Plain Flour
●● 25g Unsalted Butter 400ml Milk
●● 4 rashers smoked Bacon 100g Chicken skin
METHOD
1. Brush the kale leaves with clarified
butter, place in the dehydrator on high for
minimum 8 hours.
2. For the pasta straws - mix flour and eggs
in processor into a crumb. Tip out onto
work top, knead for 10 mins until you
achieve a smooth dough. Cling Film and
leave in fridge for min 30 mins.
3. Once ready, place through pasta machine
on the spaghetti setting.
4. For the brine mix, bring all brine mix to
the boil until salt and sugar are dissolved.
Leave to cool. For the chicken wings -
place in cooled brine mix for 1 hour and
then drain.
5. Store in fridge immersed in buttermilk
until required. For the spice mix, mix all
dry ingredients in the bowl.
6. For the cheddar paste - Melt the butter
in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook
for 1-2 minutes - ensure the flour is
cooked out. Take the pan off the heat and
gradually stir in the milk to get a smooth
sauce. Add the cheddar, whisk in, season
to taste.
7. Simmer gently for 8-10 minutes and
season with salt and white pepper.
8. Stir in cheese and allow to melt.Allow to
cool.
9. For the dressing, combine garlic,
mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon
juice, pepper and whole egg in a bowl
with whisk, gradually add the oil whilst
whisking until emulsified.
10. For the chicken skin and bacon- place in
the oven on a tray at 200degrees. Roast
until crisp. Remove from the oven and
allow to cool. Finely chop the chicken
skin and bacon into a fine crumb.
11. To Assemble The Dish....
12. Remove chicken wings from the
buttermilk, coat in the spice mix. Fry in
a fryer at 180 for approx 4 mins, drain
on j cloth, place in a warm oven. Place
spaghetti straws in the fryer, carefully,
with tweezers, remove and allow to
cool.
13. Spread the cheddar paste on to the
crisp straws, dip into the chopped
bacon and chicken skin mix, try to cover
as much area as possible for maximum
flavour.
14. Dress the kale with the prepared
dressing, and grate Parmesan over.
Serve all three elements together.

41
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Shaun Hill
The Walnut Tree Inn.
No point talking soccer when
it’s obviously Rugby that matters

The Walnut Tree Inn, just outside of the pretty market town of
Abergavenny was once the home of Italian chef Franco Taruschio.
Franco opened the Walnut Tree in the 1960’s and his Italian cuisine
revolutionised the Welsh dining scene. Word spread far and wide, and tales
are still told today of people sitting outside on the bonnets of their cars eating
because there simply wasn’t any room in the restaurant.
42
A
fter over 30 years at the Walnut Tree, Franco took the decision to
sell. Francesco Mattioli purchased the building in 2001 and with
Stephen Terry in as head chef, the food seemed better than ever.
Stephen soon won a Michelin star but left to open his own restaurant,
The Hardwick, in 2004.
The Walnut tree subsequently lost its star and from there on, troubles
began. Francesco and the Walnut tree appeared on Ramsay’s Kitchen
Nightmares in 2004. Gordon was critical of the restaurants pricing
and claimed it was overpriced to the extent that it excelled London
standards. The Walnut Tree Inn closed in 2007.
Shaun Hill, upon leaving Gidleigh Park in Chagford, had, in the mid 90’s,
opened a tiny restaurant called The Merchant House in the Market town
of Ludlow. With just 6 tables and 24 covers, Shaun had expected to
semi retire there and continue his food writing and consultancy work. It
was, as he says, very sensible and well paid.
Shaun had always been a close friend of Franco and Ann Taruschio. The
Walnut tree had been one of his favourites for decades. In fact, when I
worked for Shaun at The Merchant house, our annual Christmas Party
(there were 3 of us) was a pilgrimage to Abergavenny for a slap up
supper with Franco.
This is more difficult when the restaurants are a way apart from each
other and scattered across a small, yet beautiful country. Shaun
advice for someone considering Wales as a viable destination to open
somewhere? “The best place to open is close to another successful
restaurant for that shows there is an audience for good food in the area.
Surviving the first couple of years – unless you are wealthy or have
backers that are – means ensuring that your overheads are as low as
possible. So search out a bargain, don’t spend too much on it until it
produces some cash for embellishment. And concentrate on cooking
and serving the best you can”
Any advice for the young Shaun Hill in the 1960s? Shaun laughs, “I
wouldn’t take any advice if it had been offered. When I started cooking
in the late ‘60s it was not a sought after occupation, just the reverse. I
recall Victor Sassie who owned the Gay Hussar in Soho where I made
pastry in the early ‘70s shaking his head and telling me there was still
time for a well-educated boy like me to get a proper job. Too late now
of course!”
www.thewalnuttreeinn.com

When the Walnut Tree was repossessed by the bank, an old

employee and great friend of Shaun, who runs a leading local hotel in
Abergavenny, approached him with an offer that was hard to refuse. A
50/50 arrangement which left Shaun to run the restaurant and him to
do all the admin. And so, once again, the Walnut Tree was reborn.

Shaun highlights the challenging aspects of the Welsh countryside

as the same as those of the English or Scottish countryside. “Cooking
dishes that you are pleased with is fine, but requires enough people to
agree not only on the reviews and guide book front, but also be willing
to turn up and part with hard earned cash on a regular basis – regular
basis meaning Tuesdays in February not just Saturdays in Summer or
major birthdays’.

Wholeheartedly welcomed by the locals of Abergavenny and attracting

foodies from all over the UK, Shaun has a calm and reflective attitude
toward business and is clearly happy in Wales, “There are good people
as well as the occasional irritating, great ingredients as well as the
occasional poor ones. It’s a beautiful country and the part in which I
work seems to have enough trade to keep it all going smoothly. The
Welsh are a patriotic lot. No point talking soccer when it’s obviously
Rugby that matters and a great cultural heritage of poetry and song.
What’s not to like?”

Considering it “fitting and appropriate if local suppliers and producers

have strong links with local restaurants” Shaun adds that “just as
the restaurants have to be some good if they are to showcase this
produce, so the produce has to be top quality for good restaurants to
want to use it”.

Shaun is no stranger to the positive effects of a small group of high

quality chefs raising the bar in a small area. After all, this is exactly
what happened in Ludlow in the late 90’s. With three restaurants with
Michelin stars in a market town with a, then, population of 10,000, the
press soon hurried to tick off Ludlow as “foodie destination”.

43
 Recipe by Shaun Hill

Orange and almond cake

For 6–10

This cake will serve as a pudding. It

is softened with syrup and
Grand Marnier in much the same
way as rum baba but contains
no flour so will suit those on a
gluten-free regime.

Ingredients
●● 2 oranges
●● 6 eggs
●● 250g caster sugar
●● 1 tablespoon baking powder
●● 250g ground almonds

To finish
●● 50g granulated sugar
●● 2 tablespoons Grand
●● Marnier

Method
Boil the oranges in water for about
3 hours until very soft. Cool
then halve to scrape out the pips
and juice. Blend in a food processor,
then drain away as much liquid
as possible. You will need around
300g chopped orange pulp and skin
in total. Preheat the oven to 150°∆C/
fan 130°∆C/gas mark 2. Line a
20cm round tin with sides 6cm
deep with baking parchment. Whisk
the eggs, sugar, baking powder and
almonds together – for 1 minute if
you are using an electric whisk, or
for a couple of minutes otherwise –
then add the orange. Whisk for the
same amount of time again.
Pour the batter into the prepared
tin and bake on the middle shelf of
the oven for 1 hour. Meanwhile, put
the granulated sugar and 50ml cold
water in a small saucepan and bring
to the boil.
Once the sugar has dissolved
remove from the heat and leave to
cool.
Remove the cake from the oven and
allow to cool to the touch before
spiking the top surface of the cake
all over with a skewer.
Soak with the sugar syrup mixed
with the Grand Marnier.

44
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A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Gareth Ward
Ynyshir Hall
For the first 3 years of being here it was very difficult,
especially finding chefs and getting people to want
to move and live in such a remote location

46
47
 Y
nyshir Hall, is a restaurant with rooms,
sitting on the edge of the Snowdonia
National Park near to Aberystwyth,
Aberdovey and Machynelleth.

An adventure in food, the menu at Ynyshir is

described as taking you through clearings and
forests, sea and beach, mountain and pasture.
Much of Ynyshir is about locality and season,
harvesting produce when it is ready and preserving
it in traditional ways for use in the winter.

Inherently proud of achievements so far,

ambitious Gareth Ward and his young team have
already been awarded one Michelin Star and 4
AA rosettes. ‘Whispers’ amongst the catering
fraternity signal that, in time, Ynyshir hall could be
a proud recipient of more stars. Now that would
be something extraordinary for Wales.

Already in position of head chef at Ynyshir, Gareth

was thrown into a position of uncertainty when,
in 2016, the owner, Joan Reen, sadly passed away.
Ynyshir Hall had very much been Joan’s place, her
food ethos and hospitality being legendary and
for a while, Gareth was unsure what to do. But
things looked up, John Talbot, the new owner of
Ynyshir, allowed Gareth to take the place on as
his own business. Altering the direction of the
business to become food-focussed allowed
Gareth the opportunity to push harder to promote
Welsh food and create a destination restaurant
with rooms.

Typically, and reflective across the whole of

the industry, recruitment has had its ups and
downs. Persuading chefs and front of house to
make the journey across the country and work
in a rural location is a problem echoed by many
countryside hospitality operations.
“For the first 3 years of being here it was very
difficult, especially finding chefs and getting
people to want to move and live in such a remote
location. Front of house was slightly easier
however, now, it is the other way around. Chefs
are always looking to do something different,
and we have applications all of the time. We are
beginning to build a solid team that have been
together for about a year now. Consistency within
a brigade means everything becomes easier. So,
from now on, things can get better and better”.
A fanatical supporter of everything Welsh, Gareth
is encouraged by the Welsh Governments Cluster
group formation within food production sectors.
Agreeing, however, that this should be further
driven and include Welsh restaurants and Hotels
working together as their own cluster group, it
is clear that Gareth can see a future in which key
restaurants and chefs work in a collaborative
fashion to encourage more visitors to the country.
In response to a question about the determined
drive by Food and Drink Wales, Gareth adds,
“Wales has an amazing amount of incredible
produce from lamb and beef, to vegetables and
seafood. The ‘culinary tour’ idea is perfect for it.
The landscape here is incredible, and I believe
if restaurants work together to create links with
each other it can only strengthen the Welsh food
reputation and bring more people to the area”
Whilst creativity in the kitchen and keen business
sense allow Gareth to continue to attract regular
business from local areas, there is a sense of
frustration in encouraging diners to make the
journey to sample his food at Ynyshir.
“Getting people to make the journey is incredibly
hard at times. We very often get ‘oh but you’re 5
hours away from Birmingham’. There’s a direct train
which takes 2.5 hours and you can be with us from
central London in 4 hours. Once everyone knows
that we are much closer than they think it will be
much easier! This is definitely one of the most
challenging aspects of running a business in Wales”
So what should a potential restaurateur consider
before choosing Wales as a home for his/
her business? Well, the advice from Gareth is
simple: be prepared to do something different,
something that will draw people to you. And for
those younger and not yet ready to branch out
and go it alone “save your money when you have
no responsibility because you will need it later!”
Speaking with Gareth, his love for the industry
and Ynyshir Hall shines through. Describing his
best professional moment to date, you would
expect him to recall the day he was awarded his
star. This wasn’t the case. The day Gareth recalls
as his best to date is the day he took Ynyshir Hall
as his own business. With all the potential and
opportunity lay out before him, coupled with his
drive and ambition, I suspect, Ynyshir Hall will
continue to go from strength to strength.

48 A rea P rofile : W a l e s
 Recipe By Gareth Ward

Strawberry Elder

Buttermilk Method Elderflower Oil

Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks, add caster
INGREDIENTS sugar then the icing sugar. Spread the mix INGREDIENTS
●● 500g buttermilk thinly on to a sheet of greaseproof paper ●● 100g Elderflowers
and dry out for a few hours in the oven on its ●● 200g Sunflower Oil
Method lowest setting until crisp.
Split in water bath at 85c for 1 hour Method
Chill the buttermilk and then pass through Pickled Elderflowers Blend the oil and flowers together until
muslin, hang in the fridge overnight until pureed and pass through muslin cloth.
thick then whisk until smooth. INGREDIENTS
●● Elderflowers Strawberries
Crispy Meringue ●● Rice Vinegar Season diced strawberries with a little sugar
and rice wine vinegar to taste
INGREDIENTS Method
●● 100g Caster sugar Pick the elderflowers down and store in a To Finish
●● 100g Egg whites kilner jar with rice wine vinegar, just enough Add a nice spoonful of buttermilk to your
●● 100g Icing sugar to cover, for 1 week bowl, cover the buttermilk with strawberries,
pickled elderflowers a spoonful of
elderflower oil and smash some crispy
meringue on top!

49
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Chris Harrods
The Whitebrook “My time at
Le Manoir
Aux Quat’Saisons
with Raymond Blanc
that really profoundly
influenced my cooking”

50
H
ead South of Monmouth, not far for the
Brecon Beacons, the Black Mountains
and the Anglo Saxon King Offas famous
dyke (a linear earthwork that follows the
current border between England and Wales)
and you can find Chris and Kirsty Harrods
Michelin starred Restaurant with Rooms, The
Whitebrook.

Having wanted to be a chef from the age of

seven. Chris recalls cooking dinner parties at
home for his parent’s friends. Loving the buzz
of making his diners happy helped to crystallise
his mind and he knew this was a career path he
wanted to explore. 

“When I started my career I worked in a number

of restaurants. I launched Colette’s at The
Grove in Hertfordshire, but it was my time at
Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons with Raymond
Blanc that really profoundly influenced my
cooking.  What I thought about food changed
completely when I got there. Everything is
about quality and the freshness of the produce.
As a chef it’s all about questioning and tasting,
and that’s really stayed with me.  It was a long
journey to finally opening my own restaurant,
this was punctuated by the recession. After
lots of knocking on doors I got a small group
of investors together to back me. We then
couldn’t find a suitable restaurant, which was
really tough. There even came a point where I
had put my career on hold for so long I decided
to give up the dream and start looking for a
new head chef position, only to be told I had
been out of the game too long!  However
eventually, in 2013 and after seven years of
trying, we found, and finally launched, The
Whitebrook.”

Attracting customers to the Whitebrook is a

challenge faced on a day to day basis, however
eight comfortable and stylish bedrooms help to
draw guests to the restaurant with rooms.
“It’s a competitive world out there” Chris adds,
“and the challenge is continuing to create
awareness about The Whitebrook. National
critic reviews and key slots on TV are hard
to come by. But I know that it would make a
difference to business. The word is spreading
but it’s slower than I expected. This has
surprised me especially given that we have a
Michelin star and 4 AA rosettes. We also had Government has struggled to raise awareness Monmouthshire has been supportive of what
an inclusion in the recent Sunday Times Top of the food and drink scene in previous years. we’re doing and promote the area but I think
10 Foodie Hotels round up as well as regular “Wales and its surrounding area has some there needs to be more cohesion with Visit
coverage in key food and travel publications.” amazing food and drink producers that really Britain.”
needs shouting about and I think the Welsh “The Abergavenny Food Festival, and now the
Unaware of the action plans set out by Food Government or Visit Wales could still do more Monmouthshire Food Festival, both highlight
and Drink Wales, Chris believes the Welsh to promote what they have.  Locally to us Visit the area and celebrates what the region has to

51
 offer. This is something I have always supported
since moving to the area. Locally we have
the Wye Valley & Forest of Dean Association.
They bring all restaurants, hotels, producers
and tourist attractions together under one site
which promotes the area well.”  supplies our Ryland lamb; this is a rare breed
Having a collaborative relationship with some
of his suppliers, has enabled Chris to steer
some of the producers into supplying specific
ingredients for his sole use at the Whitebrook.
“From day one we said we only wanted to use
British produce and showcase the very best
the country has to offer, so I started to look for
producers that could offer consistent quality
and was pleased to find many in the Wye
Valley, close to the restaurant. One of the most
important people I met early on was Henry
Ashby who foraged the local area and used to
sell bags of mixed salad leaves to the local
restaurants. I then decided to start looking more
closely at the individual ingredients and how I
could use the flavours.
 
Another lady who is very important to the
restaurant is Amanda Stradling. Amanda runs
Veggies Galore, a small independent grower
nearby.  She has five acres and lots of different
heritage vegetables.  As our relationship has
developed, she has started growing different
varieties of vegetables especially for us which
makes the menu very exciting.
52 A rea P rofile : W a l e s
I am also lucky to have Huntsham Farm
nearby. The farm produces rare breed meats
such as the suckling pig that we have had on
the menu since we opened. Every week they
deliver a consistent quality pig. Richard also
native to Ross on Wye reared to over a year
old, so more Hogget than Lamb. This again
gives a consistent depth of flavour every
time. That’s providing Simon Rogan hasn’t
got in first and taken them all!”
Welsh drink producers fare well at the
Whitebrook, “We have our neighbour Ancre
Hill’s Sparkling wine and Pinot Noir on
our list. They are based in Monmouth and
we like to offer this instead of a glass of
champagne to our guests to really showcase
the area. They are also biodynamic, and this
is something we highlight on our list. We are
over 50% natural, organic or biodynamic. I
also use Parva Farm Vineyards Tintern Mead
in some of my recipes as well as other Welsh
Gins, Whiskies and Micro-brewery beer &
ciders.”
On the question of building a strong brigade,
Chris believes it can be tricky due to their
rural location, “Generally when the staff
get here they really appreciate the fact
that we are a small team. There is a lot of
responsibility from day one.  However, this
can also make it difficult. If we lose one
member of the team it has major impact
on the running of the restaurant. I am in the
kitchen cooking, Gennaro is front of house
for every service. It’s a hands on learning
experience. The foraging that we do and the
kitchen garden are all done by the tea. So we
offer something different. New experiences,
new knowledge, grassroots appreciation of
our foraged and home grown produce. They
could never get that from a city restaurant.”
After what Chris and Kirsty perceived to be
an endless struggle, finally having the keys
to their own place, becoming the recipient of
a Michelin star 11 months later, and entering
the Good Food Guides top 50, has been a
very special experience. “It’s not all about
awards,” says Chris, “but it helps to be publicly
recognised for what you are doing.” This,
coupled with hosting their own wedding on
site, has established the Whitebrook as their
home indefinitely, “It’s incredible. The absolute
abundance of produce. The countryside here
is just brimming with amazing suppliers as
well as acres of fields, forests and coastlines
to forage.  I love that it’s so idyllically peaceful
yet only 2.5 hours from London meaning
we’re accessible, but coming here really is a
complete rural retreat.”
www.thewhitebrook.co.uk 01600 860254
Whitebrook, Nr Monmouth, NP25 4TX
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53
QUOTE: CHEF2017
A rea P rofile : Wa l e s

Bryan Webb
Tyddyn Llan

For many chefs fourteen

years in the same
kitchen is unheard of
54
 With Wales running through his blood and decades years of cooking
under his belt, Bryan Webb is a bit of an unsung hero. Along with his
wife Susan in the front, Bryan can be found at the stove of his restaurant with
rooms, Tyddyn Llan in the picturesque Denbighshire, North Wales near to
Chester, Llangollen and Wrexham.
A true testament to perseverance, Bryan
was awarded his first Michelin star in 2010.
Happily coinciding with his 50th birthday, this
recognition came after 34 years of cooking.
Looking back on Bryan’s culinary pedigree
you will find some names that, years
ago, were really at the forefront of the
emergence of the UK as a country with
serious chefs and iconic restaurants. Sadly,
unless the younger chefs of today really do
their research, some of the names like Sonia
Blech, Colin Presdee, and Ken McPhee won’t
mean anything to them.
A career that saw Bryan learn his craft in
both the UK and France eventually led him
to be appointed head chef of Hilaire, on Old
Brompton Road. Taking the reins from Simon
Hopkinson, Bryan stayed there for 14 years and
catapulted the restaurant to be rated as 9th in
the Country by the Independent and the Good
Food Guide. But home beckoned and in 2001,
things changed,
“For many chefs fourteen years in the same
kitchen is unheard of. The number of times I
cleaned down my cooker at Hilaire at the end of
service ran into thousands. Making the decision
to sell Hilaire in the Spring of 2001, was one
of the most difficult decisions of my life. The
idea was prompted by Susan, she put it all into
prospective. Business was not improving and
we didn’t have sufficient funds to give Hilaire
the face lift it needed. However, my main
problem was the other major shareholder.
He was dragging the whole show down and
the only way to get rid of him was to sell the
restaurant.
Reaching the ripe age of forty also played a
part in my decision making. And Old Brompton
Road, which once had a wonderful array
of individualist shops was being overtaken
with coffee shops which were causing ever
increasing rent demands.
After fourteen years the last thing we wanted
was the feeling of becoming stale, so we took
the chance to move on.
We knew Tyddyn Llan. It was a place we had
been fond of and had stayed many times on a
spur of the moment. When we visited Tyddyn
Llan in the May of 2002 we discovered that
Peter and Bridget were thinking of selling.
Though excited at the prospect, we felt that
no way would we be able to raise the money
or even run a hotel. However, a visit to the
Yorke Arms in Ramsgill changed our minds and
helped to give us the confidence we needed.
The Yorke Arms was run by a lovely couple
Frances and Bill Atkins who, coincidentally, also
ran a restaurant on the Old Brompton road
during the same years as us. Our confidence
boosted, we thought ‘yes we can do this’ and
decided to go for it.
We were laughed at by quite a few banks
during the summer months. Things changed in
late August. After a quickly arranged meeting,
with a charming bank manager, our hopes
were raised. Shortly after, Shaun the friendly
manger agreed a deal, so at the beginning of
November we were finally holding the keys of
Tyddyn Llan”
The joys of living in the beautiful Denbigh
countryside, and the lack of daily commute to
work, help Bryan and Susan to find balance
alongside the ever growing challenges of
running a hospitality business. Recruitment, for
example.
“It’s very hard. No locals want to work. At first
local boys would want to work in the kitchen,
you would train them up and they would leave.
One has gone on the get his own Michelin
star at the Glass house in Kew. Now I have
Rob who has been with me nearly 10 years,
and Ian who has been here 3 years. I have
known Ian for over 35 years as we have worked
together at a few places before. Front of house
and housekeeping is all Spanish, Polish and
Romanian”
Bryan has close working relationships with his
suppliers and notes T.J Roberts in Bala for local
beef, pork and lamb. Edwards the butcher in
Conwy supply their bacon and sausages, and
Blas ar Fwyd for cheese. He struggles with
Welsh seafood. Though plentiful around the
coast, there are problems, Bryan says, with
buying it. Impossible, in fact, is the word he
used.
Struggles aside, it is clear that Bryan and
Susan would not change Tyddyn Llan for the
world. From the outset, they knew it would be
difficult to even get the keys to the place. But
through perseverance and bloody mindedness
they carried on, regardless, and have forged
a successful, renowned and much loved
business.
Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo, nr. Corwen,
Denbighshire,North Wales LL21 0ST – 01490
440264 www.tyddynllan.co.uk
55
T est of T aste S almon : by Andrew Scott

Donaldsons
f Orkney o

It’s always nice when you check at reception if you have any post and you
get handed a parcel that you weren’t expecting….

O
n this occasion it was a box full of smoked fish, meats and
cheese all the way from Kirkwall in Orkney. Chef magazine
had met Erik Donaldson on a trip up to the islands and fell
in love with the smoked salmon that they produce. Donaldson’s
are a family run business established in 1955 by Erik’s grandfather
George. Since then it has gone from strength to strength surviving
recessions and a fire. They have an awards list as long as my arm so
I was very excited to try their range.
So being very greedy I took the whole lot home to try for a lazy help
yourself dinner with my girlfriend, feeling slightly bad that I didn’t try
with my boys from the Restaurant 56 kitchen. The reason I did this
was when I opened the box the smell that came from it was that of a
soothing smoked smell, nothing false about this gear and I could tell
by the smell that it was going to be fantastic.
So just from the look I could see the quality especially of the meat,
the colour the fat covering just from the smoked duck and whisky
ham. The texture of the whisky ham was sensational like a top quality
Parma ham though the whisky flavor wasn’t as strong as I thought
it should be. The smoked duck was creamy in texture and melted in
your mouth the only qualm I had with it was it was sliced too thin and
was hard to pick up. Both of these products would sit on any high end
establishments menu as a canape or part of a starter. You literately
don’t have to do anything with it just a garnish. The skill of the
smoking and the sourcing of quality meats make this shine.

56
My favorite meat was the Orkney smoked beef which looked and felt like
bresaola. Amazing texture and flavour to die for but scotch beef is some of
the best and in the hands of Donaldson’s is treated so well that yet again
you get a fantastic product that you need to do little with. The smoked
flavour in this was so natural and smooth that it was infectious! Often
people are put off by smoked food as it’s too strong and additives are used
to create the flavor this is world class produce that everyone needs to try
I’ve eaten nothing like it and I’ve tried a lot of charcuterie in my time.
The two types of smoked fish were next, regular smoked Scottish
salmon and hot smoked salmon. The hot smoked was unbelievable in
quality and the moisture from the fillet was still there even though it
had been hot smoked. That takes some skill to produce on mass as a
few seconds either way can ruin the fish.
The traditional smoked salmon took me back to when I did a stage
at Le Manoir aux Saison back in 2001 when I was lucky enough to be
involved in a smoked salmon tasting from a Scandinavian company
that were showcasing there salmon, since then I haven’t tasted
anything like it until I tried Erik’s from the sample box. Not greasy,
beautifully firm texture and smoked to perfection as I am now getting
used too from Donaldson’s.
The rest of the samples consisted of bacon, black pudding, cheese
and their haggis which has been winning award s since I was born!
I don’t need to preach to you about bacon and black pudding it was
amazing and I’ve never tried such good haggis. But what I want to
champion in this review is the smoked meat and fish as they would sit
perfectly in many restaurants and I’m so proud of what this country
is producing at the moment from fantastic sparkling wines , top class
rare breed meats, cheeses to rival France and now this our own take on
charcuterie. Look out for Donaldson’s of Orkney this has to be on any
Foodies bucket list to taste.
57
Meet The supplier: by Hadyn Lyell, Procurement Director of Infusions Limited and Infusions 4 Chefs

Partnership,
service or
product -
what makes a
good supplier?
Let’s face it - we all
deal with suppliers all
the time and the basic truth
of it is that there is a massive
differentiation between the
reliability, quality and service on
offer from each one. It’s not
easy to find a goods supplier
that can offer all you need in
terms of high quality every day
essentials as well as source
specialist hard to get ingredients
whilst at the same time
understanding the tensions in
a busy kitchen, cost pressures,
industry trends and the need to
get you what you need in quick
time (i.e. yesterday!)
58
H
aving the time to thoroughly research
suppliers and properly understand their
product range, as well as establishing
and maintaining a good relationship with each
one is key. Sourcing a new supplier can be a
daunting and time consuming task, whether
you are taking up a new position or are running
an already established kitchen. Consistently
high product quality in this industry is essential,
so researching products and taking the time to
arrange tastings and comparisons is vital for a
chef. This research isn’t just something to be
done at the start of the relationship - products
change so it is worth building a relationship
with someone that you know understands
what’s important to you and that you trust
them to deliver that every time.
Aside from product tastings, one of the best
ways to research a suppliers credentials is to
ask others in the industry for their feedback and
experiences. A good supplier who has a strong
reputation in the industry and is confident
of their products will be able to demonstrate
meaningful relationships with other chefs and
will also welcome you visiting their premises to
see their operation for yourself.
Of course we cannot under estimate the
importance of good customer service. It’s the
foundation of our industry and we are right to
expect the same personalised level of expert
knowledge and outstanding service from our
suppliers that our customers demand from us.
Competition is healthy and most decent
suppliers will accept that you will research
alternatives. Depending on the product and
type of goods a supplier may not always
be the cheapest which is where reliability,
consistency, product range, stock availability
and customer service kick in as key factors for
consideration. Another thing to think about
is expert industry knowledge – buying from
somebody who knows their product range
inside and out – not just in terms of packaging
and cost but also application and benefits.
All of this boils down to partnership and trust.
A chef needs to be able to trust his suppliers
to consistently deliver a good product, on time
and at a decent price.
At Infusions, we have been supplying
commercial kitchens since 2002 and have
earned a strong reputation in the industry for
reliability, quality and customer service. With
over 5000 ingredients and equipment on
offer including ranges from Texturas, Sosa
and Castillo de Cana, we are a company run
by chefs for chefs and we pride ourselves on
understanding your needs.
59
G anache

Jacopo
Bruni Chef Jacopo Bruni already discovered his cooking
passion in the age of 17, when gaining is first
experiences as a chef in the kitchen. After two years
of doing a bit of everything prepping and bakery he
decided to become a professional pastry chef. All the
important basics he has learned at Alma Academy
International School of Italian cook during 2 years. To
complete his studies he graduated at Master Della
Cucina Italiana with 3 Michelin stars chef Massimiliano
Alajmo. His first pastry chef position in charge of a
pastry team was in at Inkiostro in Parma (1 Michelin
stars) and the hotel Ink 124. In 2015 Jacopo was ready
for a big change and decided to move to London, where
he found a pastry chef position at the Connaught (5
star Hotel and 2 Michelin stars restaurant). After one
year he was called from the 5 star Baglioni Hotel for the
reopening , Jacopo took his chance and agreed to join
the Hotel as a Head Pastry Chef.
Today Jacopo is currently spreading his passion in the
Edition Hotel as well as a Head Pastry Chef in the award
winning Berners Tavern Restaurant.
Chef Jacopo Bruni has been loyal user
and defender of Les Vergers Boiron
for the last three years.

60
 Recipe By Jacopo Bruni

Banoffee Swiss Roll

Sponge x5 times Ganache gianduja Banana sorbet Dark chocolate

INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS INGREDIENTS

●● 335gr Eggs fresh ●● 560gr Double cream ●● 110gr Mineral water ●● 870g Cream UHT
●● 460gr TPT ●● 50gr trimoline ●● 105gr sugar ●● 120g trimoline
●● 1 Vanilla pod ●● 620gr gianduja ●● 51gr Glucose powder ●● 1000g Dark chocolate
●● 67gr Flour ●● 5gr Super neutrose ●● 150g butter
●● 50gr Melted butter Method ●● 13gr Lemon juice
●● 250gr Egg white Boil the cream and trimoline ●● 100gr Les Boiron banana Method
●● 125gr Sugar and make an emulsion with the puree Boil cream and trimoline, make
●● 2gr Egg white powder gianduja like a ganache. an emulsion on chocolate, leave
Method cool down to 38c, add soft butter
Method Mix the powder and sugar then
Whip TPT and eggs, gently fold add to boiling water, bring to
in the flour and butter. Then 85C.cool down to 20C and add
whip the egg white and the lemopn juice and banana puree.
sugar and fold into the first mix.
Place 500gr on a tray and put in
the oven at 200c fan 2 for 10 min

61
G a n a c h e : C a s a L u k e r p r o f i l e by Chris Burt

A Chefs
perspective

62
 I pull the Tumaco 65% parfait out of the mould, cut the Dorado brownie and
make the Santander 85% hot chocolate. Blow torch an Auraca tart, then we
ready to assemble. Just sprinkle with the nibs, couple of nasturtiums from the garden.
That completes my tasting plate of Luker Chocolate.

S
mart chefs are beginning to learn about Casa Luker. Their
single estate 100% origin chocolate is grown and prepared
in Colombia. Their ethos and support toward local farmers
is exemplary. Their products are a genuine competitor that
can stand tall and proud against the more famous couverture
producers.
Why was I tempted to use Luker as opposed to the “others”? That, I
have to credit to Vicky Endersen, former pastry chef and the girl now
catapulting MSK Ingredients from their depot and training facility in
Chesterfield to an international must-have supplier for chefs across the
world. MSK are the sole UK distributors of Casa Luker, and I was invited
along for a chocolate tasting day.

63
 Getting to grips with a new ingredient can sometimes be
a challenge for a chef. Especially when you have your old
favourites, and don’t feel the need to change. From the
first taste of Lukers ‘Fino de Aroma” chocolate, I knew
that my preconceptions had been challenged. This was a
chocolate that stood out amongst its competitors like the
Monserrate Church stands out over Bogota. Proud and
pure, steeped in history, made with love and dedication.

Vicky Endersen, or ‘Lady Luker’ as she is affectionately

known suggested a trip to Colombia to visit Casa Luker, to
meet their producers and farmers and follow the journey
from bean to bar.

Skip forward a few months, and I find myself in misty,

temperate, downtown Bogota. Sampling some
traditional arepas or corn pancakes with egg and
avocado, we await our connecting flight to the heart
of the chocolate country – Granja Luker. Here lies the
research and development hub of Casa Luker.

Ordering ingredients can sometimes be a very

impersonal thing. Engaging with produce is becoming
more and more important to us chefs. Understanding
the processes, the origins and the people is key to
understanding the ingredient. And when we understand
an ingredient fully, new inspirations arise.
A tour of the farm at Granja Luker is a sight to behold.

64
Cacao trees carpet the floor, heavy with ripe pods, ready
to be harvested.

Years of scientific research, fabulous philosophies and

great techniques all form part of the Luker heritage.
The company looks after its people, whether they are
farmers, or distribution. They believe in the well-being
of all. Luker grows all its own Cacao trees. These are
then given to the farmers. Consistency for Luker, ease
for the farmer. It’s a win-win situation. In an industry
and an environment where we all too often hear how the
corporates make their money and neglect their people, I
know I can serve this chocolate
with a clear conscience that it is fair for all. Our entourage
of chocolatiers, chefs, distributors and bloggers are all in
agreement.

As is said, ‘the proof is very much in the pudding’. So,

what does Luker have that the others don’t? I urge you,
as a chef, to get a sample and see for yourself – you will
not be disappointed. For me, the complexity and depth of
the flavours. The texture & mouthfeel. The dazzling array
of earthy tones, backed up with tobacco & coffee notes.

This isn’t just the best chocolate I’ve ever used & tasted.
It is also the most ethical. These days, providing support
for the people who come under your ward is not just a
breath of fresh air it’s a necessity.

65
 Recipe By Casa Luker
Luker ball
INGREDIENTS
●● 2 pre tempered Luker
Nevada white chocolate sphere
halves
●● 170g Luker Tumaco 65%
chocolate, roughly chopped
●● 50g Luker Santander 85%
chocolate
●● 30g pistachios chopped
●● Water
●● 7 free-range egg whites
●● ¼ tsp lemon juice
●● 40g/1½oz caster sugar
●● 1 small bunch of oxalis
66
Method
1. Melt the Luker Tumaco
chocolate in a heatproof bowl
set over a pan of simmering
water (do not allow the base of
the bowl to touch the water).
2. Whisk the egg whites and
lemon juice in a large, clean
bowl until they form soft
peaks. The lemon juice will
stabilise the egg whites, make
them easier to work with and
help to prevent over-whisking.
3. Add the sugar and continue
to whisk until firm peaks form
when the whisk is removed.
Do not whisk beyond this
stage - the egg whites will
start to collapse and separate
into dry froth and runny liquid,
and you’ll lose all the air that
you’ve whisked in.
4. When the chocolate has
melted, remove the bowl
from the heat. Whisk one-
third of the egg whites into
the hot chocolate quickly and
vigorously, until thick and well
combined - if you add the egg
whites in too slowly, their cold
temperature can make the hot
chocolate seize, solidify and
result in a lumpy mousse.
5. Fold the remaining egg whites
& pistachios into the chocolate
mixture, using a spatula, until
all of the egg white has been
completely incorporated into
the chocolate. Don’t overmix
at this stage as you’ll knock
out the air bubbles and the
mousse will be dense.
6. Spoon the mousse mixture
into the Luker Nevada
chocolate sphere. Put the 2
halves together. Chill in the
fridge for 2-3 hours, or until
set.
7. Heat to Luker Santander 85%
chocolate in a pan with a little
water. Stirring constantly until
smooth.
8. Take your sphere out of the
fridge & plate, decant your hot
chocolate. Garnish with the
oxalis. And your ready to go.
9. Pour away & watch it melt.
 Fr o n t o f H o u s e by Fabio Adler

Raising a Glass
to English Wines

67
 Earlier this Spring we celebrated English Wine Week (Saturday 27th May
- Sunday 4th June), a national campaign initiated by the English Wine
Producers, which is the marketing arm of the UK wine industry. Over the course of
nine days, numerous events took place across the country, from wine pairing dinners
to vineyard tours, from wine masterclasses to drop-in tastings, all in the name of
raising awareness of our homegrown wines.

D
espite the mainstream press coverage that the English wine
industry has been receiving in the last few years, it still feels
slightly ‘under-the-radar’, even amongst professionals of
the hospitality sector. And I can speak for myself: until about 12
months ago, my knowledge of English wines didn’t go further than
being able to name a couple of sparkling wines, which I didn’t
particularly engage with at the time.
The fact that there are around 500 commercial vineyards in
this country is astonishing for most people, including those
working directly in the food & drink business. Perhaps even
more surprising is to realize that English wine is now exported
to 27 countries, including the US, Japan, Italy and France, an
strong evidence of its high-quality and appreciation by the most
discerning wine drinkers in the world.
Back home, restaurants, bars and hotels are catching up on it
slowly and surely. There is a growing number of wine lists across
the country embracing English wines, from high-end restaurants to
independent gastropubs, from luxury hotels to wine bars.
More and more London restaurants now offer at least one English
sparkling wine sitting comfortably next to champagne and top-end
prosecco and cava on their wine lists. Steak & seafood restaurant
group Hawksmoor for example offers the excellent Hambledon
Classic Cuvée from the Hampshire-based vineyard, both by the glass
and by the bottle.
Phil Howard’s Elystan Street restaurant in Chelsea has the very fitting
Hush Heath Estate sparkling wines on its menu, and Neil Rankin’s
Temper in Soho offers Digby’s Leander Pink as their top-end sparkling

68 F ront of H o u se : b y F a b i o A d l e r
wine, also available by the glass. And British restaurant Shepherd’s of
Westminster, a true institution at the heart of the political quarter in
London, offers a great list of English wines from not only well-known
vineyards such as Nyetimber and Ridgeview, but also more boutique
estates such as Furleigh and Lime Bay.

Perhaps one of the most committed supporters of English wine

that I know is sommelier Alex Preston, from the Brighton-based
Isaac At, a fine dining restaurant with a key focus on locally
sourced ingredients and an all British drinks menu. In the same
way that the restaurant sources all their ingredients for their
tasting menu locally, Alex uses their wine list as an opportunity to
showcase some of the best English wines that are produced, with
many of them being made in their vicinities in Sussex. Diners have
so much to choose from, including local heroes Black Dog Hill,
Hoffmann & Rathbone, Davenport and Albourne Estate.

The growing enthusiasm for English wines is not restricted

to hospitality professionals. An English Wine Supper Club is
hosted in London by the couple Ian Hardwick and Vanessa Wells,
roughly every quarter, with a seasonal food menu to match a
hand-picked selection of still and sparkling wines. The supper
club, which takes place at their own home in Stoke Newington,
is limited to only 10 people at a time. Guests are treated not only
to a scrumptious five course meal accompanied by matching
English wines, but all the wines are also properly introduced with
first-hand knowledge, as they have visited most of the vineyards
themselves.

The English wine industry has certainly come a long way and Founded in 2007 by husband and wife team Jim and Anja
it’s an exciting time for everyone involved in hospitality: chefs, Nolan, Black Dog Hill is championing the evolution of En-
sommeliers, restaurateurs, wine merchants and of course, glish Sparkling Wine. Their aim is to lead the emergence of
the diners. The opportunities to work with English wines and boutique, English Sparkling Wine. As the industry grows and
vineyards are so enriching and rewarding so next time you’re ever larger producers come on the scene; Black Dog’s focus is
due to review your wine list, make sure you keep an open mind to produce wines in small quantities for wine lovers in search
about the incredibly diverse wines that are being made at our of ner terroir expressions that are uniquely English. Their
doorsteps.
vineyard is nestled against ‘the 830ft high Ditchling Beacon,
a towering Chalk Hill topped by an ancient Iron Age hill fort
Fabio Adler is the and according to legend haunted by a benevolent ghostly
founder of Mousseux Black Dog. Their vines are sheltered by the Beacon from the
Anglais, a new business extremes of British weather and grow happily in true chalky
designed to champion soil, littered with prehistoric sea fossils. Their wines are craft-
and promote English
ed for them locally by award winning winemaker Dermot
sparkling wine. His first
Sugrue resulting in the highest quality wines which are a
English Sparkling Wine
Show took place on
unique expression of a unique English Terroir.
31st May 2017 at The Following the success of their rst vintage, the superb 2011
Hoxton, Shoreditch, winner of a gold award at the IWSC, a silver at Decanter and
showcasing 12 different
bronze at the IWC, Black Dog Hill are pleased to announce
English wine producers
the release of their new vintage, the 2013 Classic Cuvee
and attended by 200
guests.
Black Dog Hill Vineyard
17-19 High Street Ditchling, BN6 8XG
e: info@blackdoghillvineyard.co.uk
m: 07710 572974

69
I n T he K itchen
Michelin Star
Chef James Close
Reopens Revamped Raby Hunt
T
he refurbishment – which includes £200,000 spent on the
custom made kitchen - follows The Raby Hunt making culinary
history last autumn when Michelin awarded the former 200 year
old drovers’ inn a second prestigious star, a first for either a North East-
based chef or restaurant.
James, 37, says: “This is the first time The Raby Hunt has been closed
since taking it on seven years ago. Having gained a second Michelin
star last autumn, the time was right to invest and put The Raby Hunt
on not just the UK’s good food map, but the world’s.
“We want to make The Raby Hunt more unique than it already is, and ensure
our guests experience an even greater ‘wow’ factor when they dine with us.”
James has worked with Create Architecture of Newton Aycliffe,
County Durham, Newcastle-based restaurant, catering equipment,
70
and kitchen suppliers, Crosbys, and local building firms, on the
refurbishment.
“It was important to me to use North East-based suppliers and
builders. I wanted to ensure as much of the work as possible stayed
in the region.
“It has been great collaborating with Crosbys, who understand
the unique challenges that can be thrown up by working in the
hospitality arena. For Create Architecture, this was their first
restaurant project, but it meant they came to the job with no
preconceptions or constraints and listened rather than paid lip
service to what we wanted.”
The result, explains architectural designer Craig Kipling, is a
reworking that is “honest and simple so it doesn’t detract from the
 The North East’s only
two Michelin star
restaurant has reopened with a
stunning new £400,000 look.
The Raby Hunt near Darlington,
County Durham, closed at the
beginning of May for what has
been a major makeover.
It has seen the kitchen extended
and redeveloped, the building
of a new restaurant entrance,
and the installation of striking
glass walls so diners can watch
Michelin-starred chef-patron
James Close and his team at
work preparing their food.
history of the original building, but is also contemporary. We worked
closely with James on his vision going forward for the restaurant,
and what we have now is a building that matches the rest of The
Raby Hunt experience.
“Two large glass windows – one providing a view into the kitchen
upon arrival and the other replacing the original bar wall – have
turned the kitchen into a culinary theatre where diners can
take in the drama and excitement of a busy two Michelin star
restaurant in full swing. Before, that was an experience that was
denied them.
“You now know you are arriving somewhere very special and that
you are about to play your own part in something very exceptional.
“I look forward to seeing what further acclaim James can achieve now
he has the right environment and even better tools to work with.”
The extension has been clad in hand worked natural zinc which
will patina with weather over time to a matt grey, while the former
bar has been converted into a development kitchen – until recently
housed in an old shipping container in the customer car park. Late
summer will see the launch of a chef’s table seating up to six diners,
increasing The Raby Hunt’s covers to 32.
James is especially proud of the service and development kitchens,
designed to his specifications by Crosbys and featuring tailor-made
cooking suites from French company Athanor, a world leader in its
field.
“It’s a stunning piece of bespoke kit that is the focus of a modern,
light and airy state-of-the-art kitchen that is now semi-open,
allowing diners to see what is happening without being right next to
it,” James says. “There’s plenty of space to accommodate the kitchen
team, with the customised Athanor stoves at the heart of the design.
“It’s an exciting time for us. We were limited by the old kitchen,
and we have made the right choice to overhaul it and really make
it our own. I am especially excited by the new research kitchen. It
will allow us to develop better techniques, continue challenging
prevailing kitchen practices and gain additional knowledge which
can be transferred to the menu and create more of a food journey
for guests.”
The Raby Hunt- the only new two Michelin star restaurant in the
2017 guide - offers the one 15-course tasting menu which takes
diners around three hours to eat from start to finish.
James – who is the current Good Food Guide Chef of the Year and
has recently been nominated in the Chefs’ Chef of the Year category
in the Estrella Damm National Restaurant Awards 2017, in which The
Raby Hunt has also been included in the Top 100 restaurants in the
UK - will take many weeks to perfect a recipe.
The menu will only change when he and his small but talented
kitchen team have created a new signature dish that is better than
what was already on.
Ben Crosby, director of Crosbys, who has worked with James since he
opened The Raby Hunt, is understandably delighted the acclaimed
chef chose his firm to realise his vision for the new kitchen. He says:
“It is a huge deal for us in terms of kudos, and it puts Crosbys right
up there. Hopefully it will open the doors to more chefs of James’
calibre using our services, and help get us known not just nationally,
but internationally too.
“Going forward we wish James the best of luck and hope to see even
more culinary plaudits heading The Raby Hunt’s way.”
71
 Which range will you choose?
Athanor

Delivering expert cooking environments

• A totally bespoke installation, ideal for precise build
specifications and overcoming venue limitations
A Chef´s love affair... • The technology deployed and materials used offer
the very best in performance, build quality, durability
Grande Cuisine presents the bespoke Athanor and reliability
range, encompassing everything that is • Powered by both electric and gas and with a range of
beautiful in the art of cooking oven options
• Gas open burners feature Volcan high output
technology, perfect for classic cooking and yet
engineered for easy cleaning and maintenance
• Electric powered options include induction hobs,
radiant hobs, ‘Plaque Athanor’ Plancha, multi-
cookers and fryers available in a variety of sizes

Other cooking technology expertly delivered by

Grande Cuisine includes the modular and robust CAPIC
range, along with the high performing Adventys range
of induction hobs and grills, for precision and energy
efficiency. A complete range of solutions available to
suit your specific requirements.

For your perfect cooking environment,

call the experts...
Grande Cuisine
tel: 01908 745540
email: info@grandecuisine.co.uk
visit: www.grandecuisine.co.uk

@Grande_Cuisine #GCChef

Crosbys design, supply and install the full kitchen. As well as all light
catering equipment and front of house with glassware, crockery.
We wish James and Family at the Raby Hunt
the best of luck and may more awards
 NEWS
One step ahead: Winterhalter’s ‘Next
Level Solutions’ for tomorrow’s warewashing
Connected Wash uses online management to maximise efficiency and control
Pay Per Wash offers operators a no-upfront investment, risk-free payment model
W
interhalter has launched two new
warewashing concepts under its
‘Next Level Solutions’ programme.
Both are based on networking and exploit the
latest digital technology to bring commercial
warewashing to the next level.
Both concepts are initially available for
Winterhalter’s UC Series of undercounter
machines. The first, Connected Wash, allows
Winterhalter warewashers to be networked
to provide more continuity and efficiency
in the kitchen – or in multiple kitchens. The
second is Pay Per Wash, which is an alternative
payment model that allows operators to have a
Winterhalter warewasher without investment
or any risk.
Connected Wash
Connected Wash warewashers are
networked via LAN or W-LAN and send
machine data to a server, virtually in
real time. Using a computer, tablet or
smartphone, customers can monitor
machine functions around the clock, via
the Connected Wash app, from anywhere
in the world.
The data is also sent to Winterhalter for
analysis and can, if necessary, be converted
into recommended actions for the customer.
For example, if a machine reports a critical
error, the system instantly sends a push
notification to the nominated person’s
smartphone or tablet. The speed of
the system means customers can react
quickly to warewash issues, minimising
machine disruptions and increasing
operational efficiency.
Connected Wash also gives the customer
cost-optimisation tips. For example, often
staff will turn on the machine first thing,
but the timespan between start-up and
the first wash cycle may be overlong,
causing unnecessary costs. The system
will highlight this.
Empty detergent canisters is another
common problem the system will solve.
Connected Wash will warn customers when
a refill is needed, so it’s easy to avoid the
machine washing without detergent.
“The benefits to operators are enormous,
in every sector of the catering market,” says
Ralph Winterhalter, CEO of Winterhalter.
“Whether for the owner of a small cafe
with just one warewasher, or a foodservice
business with multiple machines at
different locations, Connected Wash will
deliver real and practical improvements
in efficiency, while reducing running
costs.”
Pay Per Wash
Pay Per Wash is an alternative
payment model, meaning
Winterhalter customers
no longer have to buy
a warewasher to have
one operating in their
business. It eliminates
acquisition costs and
means customers are
only charged when the
warewasher is actually
washing. Pay Per Wash
contracts have no minimum
term and can be cancelled at
short notice.
With Pay Per Wash, customers select a
desired number of wash cycles and prepay
for them, using a credit card. The wash
codes they buy are automatically entered
into the machine and they can start washing
straight away. There is a fixed price per
wash cycle, and everything is included in
the package: warewasher, racks, water
treatment and chemicals.
“Even repairs and maintenance costs are
included in the fixed price,” says Ralph
Winterhalter. “It really is a ‘zero risk’ choice.”
Winterhalter believes Pay Per Wash will
appeal to a variety of sectors of the market,
especially with seasonal businesses,
who will only pay for warewashing when
they are earning money. Meanwhile
owners of start-ups will be able
to rely on perfect wash results,
without having to make an
initial investment. “These days
more foodservice operators
are questioning traditional
approaches and are moving to
use-based accounting,” says
Ralph Winterhalter. “They no
longer necessarily want to own a
warewasher, instead they just want to
pay when they use it. Pay Per Wash is
perfect for them.”
Winterhalter provides a total
solution for warewashing, from
pre-sales advice to after-sales
service, training and maintenance.
Alongside its market-leading dish and
glasswashers, the company’s range
includes utensil washers, advanced
water treatment machines, cleaning
chemicals and detergents. For
further details, call Winterhalter
on 01908 359000, see www.
winterhalter.co.uk, or
www.winterhalter-scout.biz
or email info@winterhalter.co.uk.
73
A Property insight: by Trevor Watson
Trevor Watson,
Executive Director,
Valuations at Davis
Coffer Lyons
W
e know that consumers now devote
a larger proportion of their income
to leisure and eating/drinking-out
than ever before and that adjustment is
now ingrained in our culture - our love of
food and its importance in our lives is only
getting bigger. As long as your restaurant
74
or leisure concept offers something people
want, has a unique selling point, and
offers genuine value, then your slice of
the ‘experience economy’ is there for the
taking. That said, the period of increasing
economic and political uncertainly we now
find ourselves in has made many restaurant
operators think more carefully about
expanding their brands. We are essentially
experiencing flat trading levels in the UK
pub and restaurant sector, according to our
research with CGA Peach, the Coffer Peach
Business Tracker. Brands and independent
restaurants trading in London are doing
better, but the nerves in the market can
largely be attributed to business confidence
and the mounting pressures they are facing.
So what are the repercussions for the
licensed and leisure property market? Low
risk sites are now the priority for chefs and
restaurant operators wanting to open new
sites or expand their concepts, but there
is enormous competition for these units.
In order to ensure you are taken seriously
against the other bidders, landlords and
major developers will be looking at your
covenant strength but this isn’t the only
important thing to them; a cuisine and
concept which complements the rest of their
estate; one that promises robust foot-flow
through an avid social media following and
active engagement with a clearly defined
and nurtured audience. Landlords are willing
to take a chance on someone new to the

market who has something different to offer
if they can deliver some collateral; a finely-
tuned strategy, a convincing landlord pack
and better still, experience of trialling their
concept through pop-ups, tastings or chef
residencies which give their brand some
bandwidth.  needed replacing. Many licensed properties
 
Even those who are successful in securing a
great site will be aware that recent changes
to business rates have been cited as the
biggest business concern by restaurant and
pub operators. They told CGA Peach that
this was the top worry they had, followed
by growing food costs, concerns in finding
the right staff (especially with fraught Brexit
process looming), followed by increasing
property rents. When it comes to business
rates, yes, many restaurant and pub
operators particularly in the South East of
the country, have been hit hard. However
it’s important to keep a balanced view; the
old Valuation List was very out of date and
elsewhere in the country were paying
too much and felt that better performing
locations in more affluent areas had had it
too easy for too long by comparison. Even
premises in the latter have seen fall in rates
if their property value has dropped. Cries
of frustration by those operators who have
been a victim of their own success - pubs
in particular - are often justified, but no
one is saying it’s a perfect system. It might
be flawed, but unfortunately there is little
political will to change it any time soon.
Perhaps the Government feels they have
more pressing things to worry about over
the next 18 months…
The period of increasing economic and
political uncertainly we now find ourselves
in has led many to believe that this will lead
to a drop in rental prices even amongst the
prime London hot spots - unfortunately
there is absolutely no evidence as yet to
support this. Any wavering pressure on rents
is limited to secondary locations so don’t
assume there are bargains out there just yet
in the top locations. We are starting to see
some effects on premiums though - a gentle
softening due to an increase in available
supply. You might even find some extra
deals offered by landlords on incentives in
the rental package, but if they are being
more generous - there is often a reason and
often they are lesser quality sites. 
With the recent rise in business rates,
making sure the rent is fair has become even
more crucial to those running a restaurant or
licensed business. The rent review process
itself has been subject to much scrutiny and
its shortcomings criticised by restaurant
operators in particular. Whilst I do believe
it’s imperative that the market continues to
make opportunities to debate this subject,
my view is that these problems generally
rear their head in recession and become
less of an issue in rising markets, i.e. they
only bite in the bad times. There is no doubt
that over recent years, restaurant and pub
rents in popular locations have put severe
pressure on some operators at rent review.
If you as an operator are unhappy that a
recent letting of a neighbouring property
will create high comparable evidence (or
indeed payment of a large premium), the
best way to meet this challenge is to deploy
the best possible expert advice to represent
you. They might well be able to unearth
some good reasons why the comparable is
worth a lot more than your property. Equally
important is to ensure that you have an
arbitrator or third party expert who has the
necessary expertise and market involvement
in order to discern between rogue evidence
and market tone to ensure that comparable
transactions are given appropriate weight.
If you do so, you will probably find that the
rent review process, whilst not perfect, is
reasonably effective and the best system we
could be using.
75
L ondon R o u nd u p by Jo Lam iri

Not only is it the capital city of

the UK, but London is also widely
regarded as the eating capital of the
world. Every week there seems to
be something new on the culinary
scene – whether it’s a food truck
initiative, pop-up or charity event,

Nobu
big-name launch or new chef on
the block – so keep your eye on
this page. We’ll be selecting the

opens
best of the latest openings, trends,
movers and shakers plus special
food-related events to keep you up
to speed with the smorgasbord of
the city’s food offerings.
his first
Nobu Matsuhisa won a european hotel in
Lifetime Achievement
award at The GQ Food & Drink Shoreditch
Awards this year, yet it seems
the 68-year-old chef isn’t
about to hang up his toque.
His first hotel in Europe, along
with his third restaurant in the
capital, features 143 bedrooms
(from £149), seven swanky
suites (from £449), 240-cover
restaurant, 10-seat sushi bar,
18-seat chef’s table and a
restaurant bar packed with sake,
limited-edition Japanese whisky
and rare Champagne.
76
 Lee Murdoch Leeds Restaurant

N
obu Hotel Shoreditch is a testatment to sleek design by London’s
Studio Mica – the angular, futuristic exterior (all metal and glass)
is softened inside by cappuccino and gold, black and splashes of
red redolent of Japanese lacquerware.
So, why London? It seems it was an obvious choice. “It is such a big city
and so cosmopolitan. Already, we have a lot of customers here and people
travelling the world, international people, come to London.”
Reached by a grand staircase to max the wow factor, the restaurant
designed by California-based Studio PCH opens on 1 July. As well as
Nobu favourites, you can now sample his riff on breakfast, Japanese
style: matcha waffle with chicken and smoked maple ponzu and pecan
miso butter for £16; a breakfast bento with umami seabass for £20; and
eggs Benedict, with crispy tofu, spinach, snow crab, shiso bearnaise
and salmon egg for £20, washed down with charcoal lemonade,
coconut water or a freshly pressed “greenhouse” juice of kale, spinach,
romaine, celery, cucumber, lemon, and ginger (£6 each).
Nobu and his team are promising a series of innovative culinary
experiences, specially created for Nobu Shoreditch, including
Hokaido scallops with foie gras, sautéed Japanese mushrooms, aji JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN COMES TO
matsuhisa and aged balsamic; sea bass with yuzu kosho, tomato THE CONNAUGHT
and cucumber salsa, honey truffle and black truffle shavings. If ever this was a meeting of the heavyweights it has to be this one:
three Michelin-star JG Vongerichten venturing across the Pond
MANHATTAN COMES TO LEEDS to open the second restaurant in mid-July at this leading London
East 59th launched in mid July in Leeds’ high-end shopping hotel, Jean-Georges Vongerichten at The Connaught, joining fellow
development, Victoria Gate (next to Issho, the new Japanese French chef Helene Darroze who holds a two Michelin stars for her
rooftop restaurant and bar also from D&D London). A Manhattan- eponymous restaurant on the same site.
style rooftop bar and grill, this New York-inspired eatery, overseen Less formal than some of JG’s other restaurants, it’s being described
by executive chef Lee Murdoch, will add glamour to Leeds’ food as ‘neighbourhood’ with views over Mount Street and a la carte
destinations, with its panoramic views across the city, live music, menus with his signature ‘farm to table’ cooking style: classic French
decadent weekend brunches, al fresco dining and US-themed menu. cuisine with Asian influences from black truffle to tuna and wasabi

77
 Parichat Sanguthai
pizza (to take away – the first in Connaught history!). As a nod to the
location, British fish and chips and beans on toast will also feature
and even afternoon tea will have his own twist!
WELSH FOOD AT TOWER BRIDGE
Tom Simmons, ex-MasterChef runner up has secured a site within
the swanky new One Tower Bridge development on the south
bank of the Thames – his first restaurant – where he is planning to
conjure up, Welsh wizard style, some serious eating. Welsh heritage
cuisine with French and English influences is on the menu, which will
feature ‘relaxed and elegant cooking with a focus on thoughtfully
sourced ingredients.’ Expect the likes of roast cod loin, asparagus,
haddock scotch egg and Hollandaise; salt-baked beetroot, goat’s
cheese and apple salad; braised ox cheek, pommes puree and
bourguignon sauce and rhubarb panna cotta, Granny Smith sorbet
and ginger biscuit.
78 L ondon R o u nd u p : b y J o L a m i r i
Tom Simmons
Small plates will be available at the bar too, while pre-dinner nibbles
will include one-off originals such as cockle popcorn with laverbread
mayonnaise. Chosen suppliers include Welsh lamb from Preseli Blue
Stone, Orkney scallops from Keltic Seafare and foraged mushrooms
from Fine France.
O’HARE SEEKING MANCHESTER’S FIRST
MICHELIN STAR
Michelin star maverick chef Michael O’Hare (of Man Behind the Curtain,
Leeds, fame) has teamed up with footballers Gary Neville and Ryan
Giggs to open The Man Who Fell to Earth, a restaurant in the former
Stock Exchange building. Speaking just before launch in July, O’Hare
claims that it will be a two Michelin star restaurant – at least, that’s the
level of quality he’s aiming for even before the inspector calls. He seems
set for Manchester domination, as the new venture follows on from the
trio’s other projects, Are Friends Electric and The Rabbit in the Moon.
 Pinapple Tarte tatin, coconut ice cream
The new restaurant is said to be a ‘Parisian ballroom style
affair’ with a more formal a la carte menu than O’Hare’s other
ventures and may well bring the city of Manchester its first
Michelin star.
CLARE SMYTH OPENS CORE IN NOTTING HILL
After a decade maintaining that three Michelin star status at the
helm of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Clare Smyth is opening her
own venture, Core, in Notting Hill, taking over the historic Victorian
building occupied by Leith’s in the 1980s. Fittingly, the 54-seat
restaurant will have a strong British ethos using only home-grown
ingredients in a relaxed but stylish interior of green, aubergine,
almond milk, copper and burnished gold.
The menu will offer plenty of choice. From up to 12 constantly changing
dishes, the menu can be ordered as three, five, 10 or 12 courses, paired
with a choice of 400 fine wines, plus a 10-seater chef’s table.
Talking about the restaurant’s name, Clare says: ‘It wasn’t easy to
choose a name but Core seemed right: it’s the seed of something
new, with strong ties to nature’.
THAI FINE DINING IN PUTNEY
Although Thai Square is a chain of restaurants, each one has
its own identity and menu. At Putney Bridge, newly appointed
executive chef Parichat Sanguthai, formerly of the Blue Elephant,
has just launched an adventurous new menu in collaboration with
Thai Square’s executive chef.
The ship-shaped restaurant bang on the river is a symphony of
metal and glass with dishes that confirm expertise at the helm:
crispy duck leg with chestnuts, cashew nuts, jujube, shallots and
spring onion, topped with a tamarind sauce, aubergine with quail
egg, sweet pepper, minced chicken breast and prawn, spicy lime
dressing and truffle oil are just two of the highlights.
79
T ried and T ested : F r i p u r a by Andrew Scott

80
 Have you ever had that thought “Cor I wish I’d have thought of that”
well that’s exactly what I was thinking when I was briefed on the next
tried and tested for chef magazine. It felt like I’d just been sat in one of the
Dragons Den chairs listening to some crazy inventor about how he was going
to extend the life of my deep fat fryer oil by nearly double its life!

T
his is what Fripura the brand behind the new oil
filter does, it sits in your deep fat fryer vat keeping
the oil fresher for longer. Now this obviously
depends on what sort of place your running from a busy
pub to a high end fine dining restaurant. But Fripura’s
guide lines are that it will at least give you an extra third
of life if not double the life.
So the filter is like a chalky bar of soap that slides into a paper envelope
bag and then the whole thing sits in a metal casing . You must
submerge the metal case straight into the oil to stop the filter reacting
with oxygen and impurities from the outside world. The rule of thumb
is one filter per 10 litres of oil so my 16 litre ones took 2 each, filters
costing £2.50 so £10 to kit my fryers out for hopefully 10 days which is
double what they usually last.

81
 The technology behind the Fripura filters
has been developed over a number of
years by a passionate team, they have
engineered the filter to slow down the
deterioration of the oil, not only this but
whatever magic that filter has hidden in
it, also stops the absorption of oil into our
food by 11% which doesn’t sound ground
breaking in terms of high numbers but
that translates as 23% less calories per
portion of chips! This makes a chunky
chef like me very happy! I can either have
an extra quarter portion or stick to the
one knowing I’m being good!
The more serious statistics are the that
the filter sucks up the nasties in the oil
giving 80% less toxins produced and 13%
less cancer causing byproducts. Obviously
I can only tell you this I can’t actually see
this all going on in front of my eyes but all
these stats have been proven in scientific
studies and backed by ‘Bibra’
What I could see is that the oil still went
a dark colour over time but this was a
slower process than usual, I could still
see the usual sediment you get. But the
food came out clean and equally cooked
all over, no dark dirty patches that you
get with old dirty oil. Most importantly it
tasted fresh still and came out crispier I
felt.
I’ve tested the filters over a 20 day period
in my fine dining ‘Restaurant 56’ and in
Sudbury Houses busy brasserie so we
got a good spread of tests. Cooking staff
chips to braised beef bon bons for the
tasting menu. The filters even extended
the life of the beef dripping we use in one
half of the fryers in the brasserie to make
the chips taste better. Both weeks the oil
lasted 9 days which is just short of double
the life as they need changing every 5
days. Now depending on who you buy
your oil off of its not cheap ranging from
£15-£30 per 20 litres. These filters have
nearly cut my oil spend by half which
is about a £100 saving per month. And
that’s not taking into account the labour
from the kitchen porters or chefs that
are cleaning them. So we have a happier
wallet and happier staff and healthier
chips over here for now!
Like I’ve said in most of my reviews it’s
for you to make your own mind up, but
this is such an innovative simple to use
device that I think you’ll see the name
Fripura popping up everywhere and a lot
of angry oil salesmen scratching their
heads very soon!

82 T ried and T ested : F r i p u r a

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