228

Buckling of Woven Fabrics

Part I: Effect of Fabric Weight
T. G. CLAPP AND H. PENG
College of Textiles, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, North Carolina 27695, U.S.A.

ABSTRACT
The effect of weight on the buckling behavior of woven fabrics is investigated in
this study. Using Timoshenko’s elastica theory, the differential equation of the fabric
is established, and numerical solutions under three different boundary conditions are
obtained. This model explains the buckling behavior of the fabric as efficiently as the
model using friction couple theory. In addition, the relationship between the weight
factor (the ratio of fabric weight per unit length to bending rigidity times buckling
length cubed) of the fabric and the load-deflection characteristics are discussed in
detail. As the weight factor increases, the force to initiate buckling increases. For a
fabric undergoing a large deflection, the effect of the weight factor w on buckling is
strongly dependent on the boundary conditions of the fabric elastica. In many apparel
fabrics, the weight factor is significant and cannot be neglected in the model formu-
lation.

Automation of the handling and transpott.of apparel alytical solutions for some basic fabric buckling prob-
fabrics is of vital interest to industrialized nations, lems, but the effect of fabric weight is neglected in them.
where the cost of labor is a significant portion of the When the fabric weight factor is considered, the dif-
tolal product cost. Major research programs are being ferential equations of the system become highly non-
conducted around the world to develop and apply linear and can only be solved numerically. Konopasek
technologies for automating the handling and manip- applied numerical analysis techniques to solve a variety
ulation of fabric parts in apparel manufacturing [ 1, 4, of boundary value problems occurring in the area of
8]. A thorough understanding of large deformation fabric deformation [ 9, 10 ] . Lloyd and Shanahan stud-
fabric behavior is very important for designing auto- ied the folding of heavy fabric sheets using Konopasek’s
mated processes to handle fabric. A great amount of program [ 13 ] . Brown developed a computer program
work has been done theoretically to develop this based on Konopasek’s techniques to study large de-
knowledge [ 5-7, 9-11, 13, 15 ] . These theoretical flection bending of fabric during automated material
models have been validated only by limited experi- handling [ 2 ], but a study using Konopasek’s technique
mental studies over a narrow range of fabrics [ 2, 5]. to conduct a basic investigation on fabric buckling has
The assumptions on which many of the theoretical not been reported. In this study, we have used an an-
models are based may not be valid when considering alytical method equivalent to the simplified version of
typical apparel fabrics. Normally, the effect of fabric Konopasek’s technique to study the effect of the weight
weight is neglected because the ratio of weight to bend- factor on fabric buckling. For simplicity, we use Peirce’s
ing rigidity is negligible, and therefore omitted in the assumption of constant bending rigidity to develop the
’

model formulation. In the case of many fabrics, how- analytical model.

ever, this ratio is not negligible and must be considered i

when modeling buckling behavior. The purpose of this Analytical Model .

paper is to include the effect of weight in a classical In developing a mathematical model, it is advan-
theoretical model for describing the buckling behavior tageous to define the fabric as an elastica; thus Ti-
of woven fabric. moshenko’s elastica theory can be used [16]. In this
The fabric in buckling is modeled as a continuous study, the fabric elastica is modeled as a curved beam
elastica. Several models have been proposed to describe of constant cross section. A left portion of the fabric
fabric bending behavior, including Peirce’s model of elastica is shown in Figure 1. The gravity force is as-
constant bending rigidity [15], Grosberg’s frictional sumed to be applied in y direction. The differential
couple theory [ 7 ] , and the theory of bilinear moment- equation is developed by considering the equilibrium
curvature relationship [ S, 11 ] . These models allow an- equation of moments.

FIGURE 1. Mathematical model of fabric elastica.
The exact expression for the curvature of the beam
is d9/ds, where dO is the incremental change in the
bending angle 0, and ds is the incremental change in
beam length s. Thus the bending moment in the beam
is given by Eld9/ds, where EI is the bending rigidity
, off the fabric. Summing up all moments at the m-m
line, we find that
where P is the compressional load applied at the beam
end, R is the reactive force, M, is the applied external
moment, and w is the weight per unit length of the
fabric. The change in length of the beam due to
- compression will be neglected.
Differentiating Equation 1 with respect to s and using
the relations
the second order differential equation of the deflection
curve is given by
This equation is equivalent to the one used
Lloyd [ 13 ] .
By letting .
229
where L is the total length of the fabric elastica, Equa-
tion 2 may be nondimensionalized as
This differential equation is higWy nonlinear and it
appears difficult to find an exact solution in the cloeed
form. We adopt an approach using numerical analysis
techniques to solve the Equation 3. To ensure a unique
solution, it is necessary to properly define the boundary
conditions at the beam’s two ends. In this study, we
consider both symmetrical and unsymmettical bound-
ary conditions, which represent the most common
types of buckling phenomena in the fabric handling
process.
In this study, the symmetrical boundary conditions
include two cases: free-free ends ( or pin-pin ends) and
fixed-fixed ends ( or clamped-clamped ends). The un-
symmetrical boundary condition is described as free-
fixed ends (or pin-clamped ends). The mathematical
expressions of these three boundary conditions are
’
listed below.
t
Free-Free Ends .
The geometry of the fabric elastica model is shown
in Figure 2a. In this case, the moments applied at both
ends are zero. The bending angle at the center of the
beam is also zero due to symmetry. The reactive force
R is equal to half of the total weight of the beam. Using
nondimensional terms, these conditions may be written
as
and
Fixed-Fixed Ends ,
Figure 3a shows the geometry of this sort of bound-
ary condition. The bending angles at the midpoint and
the two ends of the beam are zero. The reactive force
R is also given by the half weight of the beam. Math-
ematically, these conditions are described as
by
and
230

FIGURE 2. Fabric model with free-free ends.

F~uttE 3. Fabric model with fixed-fixed ends.

Free-Fixed Ends
’

fixed end, not only is the bending angle zero, but so is

This unsymmetrical model is shown in Figure 4a. the displacement in the y direction. Thus, the mathe-
At the free end, the applied moment M~ is zero. At the matical expressions of these conditions are
¡

FIGURE 4. Fabric model with free-fixed ends.


and
Due to the unsymmetrical nature of the problem,
the numerical differential procedure will go through
the whole length of the beam. Hence the signs of the
bending angle 0 along the beam need to be specified.
As shown in Figure 4a, in the middle section of the
beam, the bending angle at point B is given by 9B 0. =
Thus point B divides the whole beam into two sections.
The sign of the angle 0 is specified as positive in the
section that is between the free end and point B. This
angle is measured from the horizontal line in the coun-
terclockwise direction. The sign of the angle 0 is spec-
ified as negative in the section that is from point B to
the fixed end, which is measured from the horizontal
line in the clockwise direction.
Numerical Solution and Discussion
To numerically solve the differential equation of
fabric elastica, we used a fourth order Runge-Kutta
method [ 14 ] . Since our fabric model belongs to a two-
point boundary problem, we have adopted a well
known technique called the &dquo;shooting&dquo; method. This
method is essentially a trial and error technique in
which unknown boundary conditions at one end point
are guessed and the boundary conditions at the other
end point are computed. The procedure is repeated,
with the initial guess being improved until the com-
puted boundary conditions match the known boundary
conditions (targets) within a specified error range. In
the case of a free-free beam, the problem states that
given 9 ~ s=o, one needs to find a unique value of P to
satisfy the boundary condition in Equation 4b. For the
case of a fixed-fixed beam, given applied moment
Me ( Me MeL / EI ) at the ends, a proper value of P
=
can be found to satisfy the boundary condition in
Equation ,Sb. For the case of a free-fixed beam, given
the bending angle 9 ~ s=o, the forces P and A are two
unknowns to be solved to satisfy the boundary con-
ditions in Equations 6b and c.
In the fabric buckling problem, the characteristics
of buckling behavior are normally expressed using the
compression load-deflection curves. The deflection in
percentage is given by ( 1 - Rl) x 100, where 4 is
calculated as the following:
231
for a symmetric case (7a)
and
for an unsymmetric case . (7b)
For the three fabric models under investigation, the
possible maximum values of deflection are different
In the case of a free-free beam, as shown in Figure 2b,
the de~ection of buckling fabric obviously may reach
100%. For a fixed-fixed beam in Figure 3b, the de8oc-
tion of fabric will be limited when the two curved lower
portions of the fabric meet each other. Larger deflection
beyond this limiting value is poesible if the compression
force P continues to increase, but the fundamental dif
ferential Equation 3 may not be applied to this new
situation. Thus, in this study, the maximum deflection
of the fabric is bounded by this limiting value. In the
case of a free-fixed beam, the limiting value of maxi-
mum deflection of the fabric is assumed to be reached
when the bending angle 0 at the free end of the beam
is equal to 180 degrees. This situation is shown in Fig-
ure 4b.
In order to conduct the numerical analysis of the
fabric elastica problem, the nondimensional fabric
weight term W must be specified beforehand. In this
study, we chose four values of W ( 0, 2, 8, and 20) to
demonstrate the weight effect on the buckling behavior
of the fabric. Note that for a given length of the fabcic,
the term W represents the ratio between the fabric
weight per unit length and the bending rigidity of the
fabric. Because the weight per unit length of fabric has
inherent relations with fabric bending rigidity [ 12 ] , a
heavier fabric will not necessarily yield a larger value
of W because it may also have a much larger value of
bending rigidity. In general, as the weight per unit
length decreases, the weight factor W tends to increase.
To illustrate this trend, the values of W were calculated
for 63 woven fabrics studied by Lindberg and his col-
leagues [12]. The results of W/ L 3 distribution versus
the weight per unit area are plotted in Figure 5, which
shows a descending trend of W/ L 3 values as the values
of weight per unit area increase. Assuming the fabric
samples have the same lengths, a fabric of heavy ma-
terial may generate a smaller value of W, while a fabric
of light material may produce a larder value of ~.
There was also a similar trend in Brown’s measure-
ments [ 2 ] , so it is clear that the weight factor W relects
the combined effocts of the weight and the bending
232

rigidity on the buckling behavior of the fabrics. It also

seems to demonstrate that W would have more influ-
ence on the buckling of a light fabric than a heavy
fabric.

FIGURE 7. Compression load-deflection curves for a fabric model

with fixed-fixed ends.

FIGURE 5. Distribution of W/L3 versus weight per unit area w.

The numerical results are plotted in Figures 6, 7,

and 8 for beams with the boundary conditions of free-
free, fixed-6xed, and free-fixed ends, respectively. The
x axis is the deflection in percentage and the y axis is
the corresponding vilue of compression load P. Each
figure displays four compression load-deflection curves
representing four different values of W, and all these
5gures clearly. show the effect of weight factor on the
fabric buckling.

FIGURE 8. Compression load-deflection curves for a fabric model

with free-fixed ends.

W = 0. The critical compression load P agrees with

the critical values given by Timoshenko [ 16 ] : P 9.870=

for a free-free beam, P 39.48 for a fixed-fixed beam,

=

and P 20.19 for a free-fixed beam. For all other cases

=

with W # 0, the curves show a sharp jump in the value

FIGURE 6. Compression load-deftectioo curves for a fabric model
with free-free ends.
_
When the fabric elastica is undergoing a small or
moderate deflection ( less than 40%), all three figures
show some common features. First, take the limiting
case when the fabric deflection is zero for the curve of
P near the point where the deflection is zero, indicating
that a large compression load is needed to cause the
fabric to buckle.
Second, the characteristic falling load compression
curve found from the experiments [ 6 ] is verified again
by our theoretical results. In the 1960s, Grosberg and
Swani noted this interesting phenomenon and indi-
cated that it was never adequately explained. Using the
initial frictional couple theory, they were able to present
a theoretical load-deflectioq turve that was in general
agreement with the experimental results. From our
study, we see that by considering the effect of fabric

weight and not the initial frictional couple, the char-
acteristic falling load compression curve is also dis-
played. This fact seems to show that both factors, initial
friction couple and fabric weight, should be taken into
account to yield a solution that may give a more sat-
isfactory explanation to the buckling behavior of fabrics
when the weight factor W is not negligible. This remains
a topic of further research. One point we should em-
phasize is that we do not deal here with the recovery
process of the buckled fabrics. That part of investigation
cannot be done without considering the initial friction
couple of fabrics.
Third, as the values of W increase, the values of the
compression load P also increase. This trend is more
evident in the range where the deflection of the fabric
is small, indicating that when studying the buckling
behavior of a light fabric within the moderate deflection
range, omitting the fabric weight factor may result in
a significant difference from the real situation.
When the fabric elastica is undergoing a large de-
formation, it is interesting to see that the compression
load-deflection curves show some significant distinc-
tions between beams with different boundary condi-
tions. In the case of a free-free beam, the increased
value of W will also increase the value of load P when
the fabric deflection is small. As the deflection increases,
the differences in the values of P caused by varying W
are reduced. Around a deflection level of 65% to 70%,
the weight factor W seems not to have noticeable effects
on the buckling of fabrics. Beyond the point where the
deflection level is about 70%, a reverse trend relating
the values of W and P appears, that is, keeping the
deflection level the same, increasing the value of W
will reduce the value of P, although the differences are
’
not very substantial.
Similarly, in the case of a fixed-fixed beam, the dif-
ferences in the values of P caused by varying W are
significant at a low level of deflection. As the fabric
deflection increases, such differences decrease. Above
the deflection level of 65% to the point of possible
maximum deflection (about 83%), the weight factor
W does not have any important influence on the
compression load P.
In the unsymmetric case of a free-fixed beam, the
situation is complicated. Concerning the varying trend
of the load compression curves, for the small value of
W ( W 0, 2 ), the value of P increases as the deflection
=
increases in the range of small deformations. But in
the range of large deformations ( > 5096 ) , the value of
P decreases as the deflection increases. For a relatively
large value of W ( W 8, 20), P decreases as the de-
=
flection increases. Concerning the possible maximum
deflection level where the bending angle at the free end
233
is given by 180 degrees, the larger the value of W, the
lower the value of the maximum deflection. In general,
in the range of large deformation when the deflection
reaches about 48%, the weight factor W does not affect
the value of compression load P. Above this deflection,
increasing W decreases P, while below it, increasing
W increases P.
Conclusions
Using Timoshenko’s elastica theory, we investigated
numerically the weight effects on the buckling behavior
of fabrics under three boundary conditions. Our results
show that by considering the factor of fabric weight,
we can explain the observed phenomenon of a falling
load compression curve as efficiently as Grosberg and
Swani did using the theory of initial friction couple.
When a fabric is under a small or moderate deflection,
the compression load P will be increased if the value
of weight factor W is increased. When a fabric is under
a large deflection, the effect of the weight factor W on
the buckling behavior of fabrics is strongly dependent
on the boundary conditions of the fabric elastica. In
general, we have demonstrated that weight plays an
important role in the buckling behavior of fabrics with
a W value that is not negligible. Those fabrics tend to
have a low weight per unit area, such as those found
in many apparel applications.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
We wish to thank the Defense Logistics Agency of
the U.S. Department of Defense for support of this
research under contract DLA 900-87-C-0509.
Literature Cited
1.Abernathy, Frederick H., and Pippins, Don, (TC)
: Ap-
2
parel, Textile and Education at Its Best, Bobbin (Sep-
tember 1986).
2. Brown, P. R., Large Deflection Bending of Woven Fabric
for Automated Material Handling, Master’s thesis, North
Carolina State University, 1988.
3. Chapra, S. C., and Canale, R. P., "Numerical Methods
for Engineers: With Personal Computer Applications,"
McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1985.
4. Clark, K., Courtalds Research Flexible Robotics Systems,
Apparel Int. ( March 1986).
5. Ghosh, T., Computational Model of the Bending Be-
havior of Plain Woven Fabrics, Doctoral thesis, College
of Textiles, North Carolina State University. 1987.
6. Grosberg, P., and Swani, N. M., The Mechanical Prop-
erties of Woven Fabrics, Part III: The Buckling of Woven
Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 36, 332-338 (1966).
7. Grosberg, P., The Mechanical Properties of Woven Fab-
rics, Part II: The Bending of Woven Fabrics, Textile Res.
J. 36, 205-211 (1966).
 234

8. Jones, S. H., MITI: Progress Report, Apparel Ind., 46-
49 (February 1985).
9. Konopasek, M., and Hearle, J. W. S., Computational
Theory of Bending Curves, Part I, The Initial Value
Problem for 3-Dimensional Elastic Bending Curves,
5, 1-28 (1972).
Fibre Sci. Technol
10. Konopasek, M., Computational Aspects of Large De-
flection Analysis of Slender Bodies, in "Proc. NATO
Advanced Study Institute of Mechanics of Flexible Fibre
Assemblies," The Netherlands, 1978.
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Model of Plain Woven Fabrics, Textile Res. J. 55, 92-
99 (1985).
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Properties of Textile Fabrics, Part III: Shearing and
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31,
99-122 (1961).
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The Folding of Heavy Fabric Sheets, Int. J. Mech. Sci.
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521-527 (1978).
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Inst.
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Manuscript received May 30, 1989; aavged July 25, 1989.

Frictional Properties of Siro Spun Yarns

V. SUBRAMANIAM AND K. S. NATARAJAN
Department of Textile Technology, Alagappa College of Technology, Anna University, Madras 600 025, India
ABSTRACT
This paper reports the frictional properties of a series of siro spun yarns produced
from cotton, polyester/cotton, and viscose. The coefficient of friction of the yarns has
been measured using Howell’s method where the two yams slide against each other
at right angles. Yarn-to-metal friction has also been measured using a modified version
of Howell and Mazur. The dependence of strand spacing and twist on the coefficients
of yarn-to-yarn and yarn-to-metal friction has been examined, and the frictional coef-
ficient increases with increasing strand spacing and twist. The probable reasons for
this behavior are discussed in terms of the nature of the yarn surfaces.

Siro spun yarns have dominated the worsted system
of yarn manufacturing, and a considerable number of
spinning frames that wete modified are working all over
the world. The success of this system is no doubt en-
tirely due to its main advantage of low cost. In view
of its success, workers have also attempted to produce
yams in the short staple sector using this technology,
. and a number of papers have been published on the
yarns’ structure and formation and the properties of
fabrics made from them [ 1-4, 8-14].
Since yarns invariably pass through various metal
surfaœs during processing, it is important to investigate
the frictional interaction between siro yams. In the
fabric, one yam passes over the other in an orthogonal
fashion at the crossover point, and so it is also relevant
to measure yam-to-yam friction. Since both yam-to-
yam and yarn-to-metal friction influence processing
behavior and product performance, we decided to study
the frictional behavior of siro spun yams.
The work described in this paper is concerned with
measuring the yarn-to-yarn and yarn-to-metal friction
of a series of siro spun yarns produced from various
fibers using different strand spacings and twist densities.
The effect of strand spacing and twist on the coeflicients