Pvcbendit Ebook

Bending PVC
For Fun And Profit

Made Possible Using PVC Bendit
ISBN: 978-0-9848150-0-5
Vic Johnson
and
Rolf Kruse
2 VIC JOHNSON AND ROLF KRUSE
CONTENTS
Introduction
Section 1: Bending PVC, 4

What is PVC Bendit?
Basic procedures, 7
Bending large-diameter PVC, 9
Tools and supplies, 10
Cementing, 12
Finishing, 13
Potential mishaps, 15
Section 2: Beyond plumbing: Making things with PVC, 16

Design considerations
Making accurate bends: the art of the jig, 17
Assembly, 20
Section 3: Projects, 21
4-element table, 22
Tripod table 1, 26
Tripod table 2, 29
6-Foot coat rack, 30
Plant stand, 31
Multiple stand, 32
Bicycle stand, 33
8-element table, 34
Apatosaurus, 35
Helical plant stand, 37
Helical table, 38
Trellis, 39
Multi-purpose rack, 40
Camp chair, 41
Truck bed frame, 42
Flea market booth, 43
Greenhouse, 44
Appendix, 47
What is PVC?
Types of PVC
Fittings
Three main PVC user groups
BENDING PVC FOR FUN AND PROFIT 3
INTRODUCTION
PVC pipe has long been used by hobbyists and professionals to build a wide variety of objects that have noth-
ing to do with plumbing. As with any building material, PVC has both advantages and limitations. One of the
latter is that it comes in only one shape – straight. Bending it into other shapes has, until now, required substantial
investment in equipment and time. PVC Bendit is a tool that allows you to bend PVC into virtually any shape you
need. If you’re reading this book, you likely already own a PVC Bendit. If you don’t, you’ll want to get one.
PVC Bendit works by heating the pipe from the inside. When used properly, this bender heats the pipe evenly.
This renders the pipe uniformly pliable, making uniform and kink-free bends possible. This allows you to do
things that were not possible with any degree of accuracy and/or consistency. Also, the things you were making
with bent PVC before will now look and function much better.
This book describes the best way to bend PVC pipe and the proper use of PVC Bendit. You’ll want to consider
purchasing two companion products for the PVC Bendit – the Bend Station and a Build-A-Bend sampler pack.
The Bend Station is a fiberglass insulation shell that houses the bender when it’s in use. It acts as a thermal barrier
and decreases the time it takes the PVC to become pliant. Build-A-Bend is essentially a set of pieces of PVC pipe
that have been sliced down the equator. The pieces allow you to create forms and jigs that can help the bending
process and make creating duplicate parts easier. Order a sample pack, or we’ll build a custom set. Also available
are metal sleeves, available for sizes that are considerably larger than the diameter of the bender. They are useful
in increasing the heating diameter of the PVC Bendit and in providing internal support during bending. Click here
to read more. (www.store.pvcbendit.com).
For consistent and repeatable bends, we have developed a few simple jig/forming systems that can be adapted
for almost any conceivable application. They are described below, and the project section will take you through
a basic course on how to use it. This is by no means the only way to do it; just use your imagination, and you’ll
figure out what works best for you. You can also check out the videos at pvcbendit.com for more ideas and tech-
niques.
SECTION 1:
Bending PVC
What is PVC Bendit?
Welcome to the fun and profitable world
of PVC bending. This book will tell you about
PVC Bendit, a new tool for working with PVC
that can help you create things and accomplish
tasks in ways previously not possible.
As the name implies, PVC Bendit bends

PVC pipe. PVC benders have been around for
a long time, but they differ greatly from PVC
Bendit. Aimed primarily at electricians, box
benders are bulky and heavy. Heating the pipe
externally in an enclosed box is at best mar-
ginally effective. An excessive amount of heat
is blasted at the pipe. The pipe is not heated
evenly and distorts and kinks. Another flaw is
that the length of heat available in these units
is limited, allowing bends of only 72 inches
on the largest model, 48 inches being the most
common. While any length pipe can be insert-
ed into the hot box, the actual length of heat
is less than the length of the box itself. This
length limitation greatly hinders the tool’s use-
fulness outside of electrician tasks. And these benders are fairly expensive – a 72-inch box bender starts at $750.
For most users considering using a bender for their projects, the above factors combine to rule box benders out
as an option.
People also have used heat guns and torches to make bends, but this is problematic in a number of ways. First,
when you heat up pipe with a heat gun or torch, it is a completely hands-on process. You must hold and move both
the pipe and the tool the entire time to heat it up. That makes it very difficult to, say, make a nine-foot bend. In ad-
dition, it is very challeng-
ing to heat the entire bend
section evenly because you
must constantly move the
heat source. Another thing
to keep in mind is that be-
cause the most of the heat
you release is diffused into
the surrounding air, you
need a lot more BTU’s just
to begin a bend. This can
burn the pipe, and that re-
leases some nasty toxins
into the environment. A
specialized heat gun just
for bending PVC is avail-
able for $823, and torch
bending requires you to buy
propane or MAP. Needless
to say, it is not a good idea
to use either a heat gun or a
torch to bend PVC pipe.
Another option is a heating blanket. This is essentially an electric blanket that you wrap around the pipe to
heat it up. There are several models available, but the maximum length is about three feet. The blanket also
makes it difficult to heat pipe evenly. The fact is that PVC bending by traditional methods is expensive, compli-
cated, and limited in its abilities.
But now that has changed. A 72-inch PVC Bendit model costs less than $300, weighs just a few pounds and
fits in a briefcase. Other models as long as 18 feet are also available.
The biggest factor that sets PVC Bendit apart is performance. This tool heats the PVC from inside the pipe.
The heat permeates the pipe and uniformly softens it to a bendable state. The uniform softness allows the pipe to
bend smoothly and without kinks. Because the heater is inside the pipe, you are much less likely to burn the pipe.
And because less heat is wasted, it runs at a lower temperature than any other method and therefore operates at a
lower cost.
So, let’s recap the superior features the PVC Bendit: It costs less to buy and operate, it’s safer, it heats pipe
the most evenly, it is the longest bender available, and it is the easiest to use.
The bendable lengths made possible by PVC Bendit mean old limits of design are broken. New structural
objects with long sweeping arcs are now not only possible, but also feasible and relatively easy. Also, objects
that have been made but were impractical to sell due to a large number of fittings can now be revisited. Furniture,
greenhouses, sunshade covers and more suddenly become feasible and affordable with this new construction and
design consideration.
It has been exciting to witness the slew of imaginative new objects made possible by the PVC Bendit. Compa-
nies in business already manufacturing their goods from PVC have incorporated PVC Bendit into their new prod-
uct designs as well as redesigning their existing ones to take advantage of new methods now available. Industries
that have been impacted by PVC Bendit include but are not limited to structural agricultural products, mobility
products, pet agility products, outdoor furniture items, pool and beach accessories, gardening products, medical
marijuana growers, landscaping companies, fire and burglary alarm companies, chefs, event planners, magicians,
photographers, fencing companies, theater groups, and many more.
Some of the most imaginative ideas for products made with PVC Bendit are coming from individuals who
simply enjoy building things out of PVC.
While the focus of this book is on the creative possibilities now available, it should be noted that PVC Bendit
has made its mark on solving more mundane problems such as household improvements, remodeling an old home
and solving plumbing and electrical issues. Time after time, I have heard how this product came to the rescue to
solve some type of connectivity problem that a tradesman faced. For many of these tradesmen, the low cost of
PVC Bendit compelled them to add it to their tool bag. Judging from the testimonials we receive, PVC came to
the rescue at the jobsite in short order.
So rev up your imagination, unleash your creativity and create some things that satisfy man’s urge to build.
And who knows, that something you build just might catch on and turn into a business of your own. It certainly
has for some of our clients.
Basic procedures
PVC Bendit gets hot – hot enough to burn you if you’re not careful. As long as you use this bender safely, you
will never have a problem with it. Keep your work area free of clutter and flammable materials. Use common
sense when it comes to work clothing and safety gear. If you have long hair, tie it back.
To learn more about how to operate the PVC Bendit. Before beginning any project, familiarize yourself with
PVC Bendit. Get a feel for how PVC responds to flexion at various ranges of softness.
Once the PVC Bendit is plugged in:

Always wear heat-resistant gloves.
DO NOT touch the bender anywhere but along the blue-colored cool zones.
If you absolutely must handle the hot section of the bender, use the Hot Tool or a pair of pliers.
DO NOT leave the bender unattended.
Always wear gloves when handling the bender or hot PVC. To ensure even heating, and to avoid burning the
PVC, use our Bend Station. Spin the pipe 90° within the Bend Station once every minute or so during the heating
time. You do not need to hover over the PVC Bendit while heating , but you should not leave it unattended either.
If left for too long it can scorch or even melt the pipe. Once heated, PVC bends easily. Avoid excessive force.
Don’t squeeze the stick (unless that’s the look you’re going for).
If you are bending the entire stick, center it within the Bend Station. If you’re bending only one end, mark
the stick where the bend will begin, then line up this mark with the beginning of the hot zone of the bender. Just
look closely at where the hot zone is actually going to end up inside of the pipe, and you’ll get the hang of it in
no time. It helps to put the pipe next to the bender and look where you’ll need to put it. You’ll see the pictures in
the projects section; it’s a lot harder to describe it than it is to actually do it.
Whenever possible, make a test bend. It really helps to try out a few short pieces and get the hang of it. It’s
really easy, and if you’ve tried the basics before you start a project, you’ll know exactly what it’s like to use it.
Once you’ve done about three bends, you’ll have a good idea of how it’s going to behave. The following is a
rough guide to optimal heating times on schedule 40 PVC:
1/2” PVC 1 - 3 minutes

3/4” PVC 2 - 5 minutes
1” PVC 4 - 7 minutes
1 ¼” PVC 5 – 7 minutes using a sleeve
Optimal heating times will vary with ambient temperature and humidity. Longer times will be required for
smaller-radius bends. Avoid over-heating. Make test bends.
Use care to avoid deformation at the ends of sticks. Allow an extra two inches or so at each end, then make
a clean cut after the part is formed and cooled. By putting a cut line on your form, this also allows you to make
exact duplicate parts without having to fuss about re-bend length and exact placement in the jig.
Bending large-diameter PVC

The A Series PVC Bendit will work with PVC pipe up to 1 ¼” in diameter. When you’re bending 1 ¼” pipe,
it really helps to have an extra sleeve around your bender to more evenly distribute the heat. A Series A model
can bend diameters over 1 ¼”, but it takes such a long time that you are better off using a B Series bender. The B
Series will bend pipe from 1 ¼” all the way out to 3” in diameter. You can stretch it to 4” but bend times start to
get up around 8-10 minutes. Again, for 2” to 3” pipe, it really helps to have the extra sleeve. Keep in mind that
as PVC diameter increases, so does wall thickness. Heating times will increase. We’re trying to make sure that
every bender will get your pipe ready within five minutes, though, and you really can think of that as the average
time it takes. In order to assure even heating, you may also need to spin the pipe within the Bend Station a little
more often.
We also recommend that you have

two extra sleeves for bending larger di-
ameters of pipe. Use one of them to
bring the heat from the element closer
to the wall of the pipe during heating,
and use the other to prevent the pipe
from collapsing during bending. Just
slide the pipe off of the bender, drop in
your next sleeve and make your bend.
You can bend it to the desired posi-
tion, pull the hose out, and then bend
it back to the position you want it in.
By having internal support during a
large diameter, tight radius bend, all of
the stretching and collapsing happens
with a guide in place to keep the pipe’s
shape. Once you’ve done the stretch-
ing, you can move it back into position
and it will take on the desired shape
without any problems.
We don’t really have any large-diameter projects in this book, but at http://www.pvcbendit.com, we cover
sleeving up and large diameter bends in the videos section. Episodes 4, 5, and 7 cover the issue completely with-
out being specific to any application. They cover the principles and let you have your own ideas from there.
Tools and supplies

Very few tools are required for working with PVC, but you will need to cut the stuff. A hacksaw will do the
job, as will a handheld ratcheting PVC cutter. A chop saw or miter saw is recommended for making square and
accurate cuts, though a miter box and a hand saw will produce satisfactory results, especially where the pipe is
going to slip into a fitting. Most carbide-tipped woodworking blades will give acceptable results. For super-clean
edges, PVC-specific blades are available.
Certain methods of cutting will require deburring, and certain methods will not. If you’re using a band saw,
there’s a good chance that you’ll have PVC fuzz hanging off of the low side of the cut. Just have a deburring
knife on hand, and you can take it off with no problems. There will be a slight bevel along the deburring line, just
account for that in your designs or cut using another method.
When cutting PVC with power tools, use steady pressure and never force the blade. This is serious – I’ve
pushed the saw down too hard, shattered the pipe, and sent pieces flying everywhere. Follow all appropriate safety
procedures, and, especially, WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
Other useful items:

Measuring and marking tools
Glue gun (for use in setting up jigs, see below)
Clamps
Pliers
Mallet (for tapping pipes into and out of fittings during dry-fit)
Screw gun (for jigs you know you’re going to keep)
Pop-rivet gun (for more complicated forms and strange pipe joining)
Deburring knife
Vise
Air compressor and chuck gun (for cooling off hot pipes)
Sponge and cool water (also for cooling off hot pipes)
Chip brush or Q-tips (for cementing detailed areas)
Supplies:
PVC cleaner, primer, and cement
M.E.K.
Acetone
Shop rags
Ideally, you’ll have as many tools as you can get your hands on, but that’s definitely not necessary. The trick
is to decide what you’re actually going to do. When you’re in R&D, that’s when you want to have every conceiv-
able tool within reach. This way, if you’ve got an idea, you can make it real without having to go to the hardware
store or the pawn shop.
Once you’re in production, it helps to pare down your tool kit to just the essentials for the task at hand. If
you’re making greenhouse frames, for example, you need a different tool configuration than if you’re making the
three-element table. The greenhouse project needs a PVC Bendit, a Bend Station, a Build-A-Bend setup, ratchet-
ing pipe cutter, and a drill with a tap and die set. The three-element table needs the bender, Bend Station, the jig
system, a compass, protractor, angle set, spring clamps, spacer blocks, and a level. You can see there that if you’re
in a greenhouse production situation, you probably don’t need a lot of that other stuff lying around. That’ll only
distract you and your crew.
You want to configure your tools to match your actual situation, and once you’re in a true production envi-
ronment, you want to limit distractions and ensure that the work is going to flow as smoothly as possible. The
best way to do that is to be robustly equipped for research and development and to run bare bones on production.
Since R&D tasks include anything and everything, they’re a little different than full production, where you want
to ensure that only certain tasks are being done during shop time.
Keep in mind as you’re working with the PVC Bendit that you’re in nearly uncharted territory. Because bends
of this length and quality have never been possible before, you’ll be coming up with things that aren’t out there
yet. Every new innovation breakthrough is an opportunity to start a new business, and that means good things for
you and for the people around you.
Cementing
While the whole fitting and cementing system of PVC pipe is intuitively designed, we’d still like to go over
it here.
1) Make sure all pipe and fittings are clean. See the appendix for more discussion of fittings. Use PVC cleaner
to wash off the outside of the pipe as well as the inside of the fitting. It’s only necessary to use the cleaner on the
part of the pipe that will slip into the fitting. Wipe away excess cleaner with a rag. The remainder will evaporate
in seconds.
2) Prime all surfaces to be cemented. Do this over the areas that you hit with the PVC cleaner, only this time
use primer. Cleaner and primer are almost the same thing, but it still really helps to have both, especially where
water will be involved. The real difference between cleaner and primer is that cleaner has more acetone and
primer has more M.E.K. (methyl ethyl ketone.) The primer will break down the surface of the PVC and give it a
gummy consistency. This makes it a lot easier to slip the pipe fully into the fitting, and it also makes the finished
joint much stronger.
3) Apply a thin coat of cement to all surfaces involved. This is the same as cleaning and priming; be sure to
apply cement to the inside of the fitting and the outside of the pipe where it will slip into the fitting.
4) Slide the joint together and hold it in place for about 30 seconds. Some joints can be released instantly, but
sometimes the swelling from the primer can force the pipe out of the fitting. It’s best to hold the joint together at
full depth until the cement gets a slight skin on it.
5) Wait at least two hours before any pressure is applied to the project. Re-cement all joints if the project is
going to be holding water or air pressure, and give that another two hours to cure. It may make you impatient,
but it really is worth it to only go through this process once. Prematurely applying pressure to a project can cause
joints to fail, and then you have to go back and do it all over again.
Finishing
PVC is highly resistant to just about every primer and surfactant known to mankind. The one primer we’ve
found that bonds effectively is PVC primer. Using a 1” brush, apply a thin coat of purple primer, allow to dry,
and then apply the finish of your choice. A wide range of paints and finishes will bond to purple primer. Always
test a new finish on a scrap piece of PVC. For lighter-colored finishes especially, clean the pipe of any printing
before assembly. It also really helps to give your project a light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to knock down
the sheen and give the paint more surface area to adhere to.
If ease of application is paramount, direct-to-plastic paints are available in spray cans. We have tested one
national brand, which may be suitable for light use but which does not pass our fingernail test. Don’t let this
alarm you, though. It is very rare (at least for me) to go scratch testing the legs on your designer table. Once your
project gets where it’s going, it will stand up to everyday abuse.
Should you choose classic PVC White for your final color, do clean the pipe thoroughly before assembly. You
can get the ink off of the pipe using M.E.K., acetone or PVC cleaner. Be sure not to use the brush in the bottle
because the ink on the pipe will stain the cleaner once you’ve picked up enough of it. Instead, pour your solvent
into a rag and wipe the pipes clean with that. There are furniture grade pipe suppliers that sell PVC without the
imprints you find on plumbing pipes and electrical conduits. It is essentially regular schedule 40 PVC, but better
looking. Furniture-grade pipe is also available in a wide spectrum of colors.
It is also possible to dye PVC any color you like. Essentially, you mix PVC cleaner with “solvent dye” or “fuel
dye” and apply it to the PVC using the brush that comes in the cleaner can. You can see an in-depth tutorial on
how to do this at: http://makeprojects.com/Project/Stain-PVC-Any-Color-You-Like/296/1
We’ve also succeeded in making some very interesting textures using combinations of M.E.K., contact cement
and sand. This makes a solid, durable texture that accepts paint beautifully. You don’t want to try the fingernail
test – your nail will lose, and it hurts.
We’ve also had some success with wood stains. Treat it the same as any other finish: Get a feel for it before
using it on a project that you really like. Heavy handed applications can come out funny looking, so you want
to be sure to know what you’re doing before you apply it. Be especially careful around joints. The stain has a
habit of pooling in the thin crevasses where the pipe meets the fitting, and that can look funny. One way to avoid
problems with this is to stain your pipes and fittings before assembly. This has the disadvantage that the primer
will break down the stain a little, but touch ups are much easier than staining the entire finished project after it is
assembled.
With patience and creativity, you will find finishing solutions for every type of project. Be sure to test your
finishes on dummy scraps of pipe instead of your project. If you’re experimenting, you really don’t want to mess
up your project when you’re trying to complete it.
Potential mishaps
There are a few things that can go wrong when bending PVC pipe. They mostly have to do with uneven heat-
ing and burning the pipe. Using the PVC Bendit method, these mishaps are much less likely to happen than with
any other system, but they are worth mentioning. Really, the only way to run into these kinds of problems while
using PVC Bendit is through carelessness or expecting more from the material than is possible.
One example is a kinked pipe, caused by spotty heat distribution. That causes the wall of the pipe to fold up
on itself during the bend.
Another problem is called a torch bend, caused when pipe is grossly overheated. Never burn PVC pipe.
SECTION 2:
Beyond plumbing:
building stuff with PVC
Design considerations
PVC is relatively light in weight, high in strength, and low in chemical reactivity. The smaller diameters do
flex noticeably under load: this can be an advantage or not, depending on whether you’re building a chaise lounge
or a bookshelf. Just be sure to choose a pipe that’s going to be able to handle the load you’ve got in mind for it.
PVC Bendit allows it to be bent into interesting and useful curves.
The application of PVC adhesive temporarily softens PVC to a gel state. When two or more treated pieces of
PVC are pressed together, they will essentially fuse. The greater the surface area of the joint, the stronger it will
be.
For the strongest joints, use molded fittings. Fittings are available in a wide variety of styles. Along with
strength, another advantage they have is that of accuracy. A standard Tee fitting, for example, will just about en-
sure that your sticks are joined at right angles.
Some styles of fitting are available in furniture-grade. These are very clean castings with beveled ends, and
are great for giving your project a finished look. They also have the added UV resistance of furniture-grade PVC,
so they will last longer in sunlight. These are great for outdoor furniture as well as structural applications.
One fitting we find particularly useful is the slip slide tee furniture-grade fitting. It can be slipped into place
anywhere along a section of pipe. The ‘slip’ section of this fitting has a small amount of play, which allows it to
be placed even along curves of a mild radius. They can be used as hinges, and they can also be used to make the
‘dog bone’ pieces that are a part of some of our more interesting projects.
Making accurate bends:

the art of the jig
Simple forming jig

For accuracy and repeatability, use a jig when making bends. A simple and useful jig can consist of little more
than a flat piece of MDF or particleboard, and a strip of some sort of flexible material such as Bendy Board or
Formica. The flexible material is laid out as a fence along the desired curve. The fence is glued into place with
hot glue. Hot glue sets up very quickly, and can be removed again so that the board can be re-used.
Another very cool method is the Build-A-Bend system. Buy a sampler pack at www.pvcbendit.com, or take a
pipe that is one size larger than the one you are trying to bend, cut it in half lengthwise, and then cut those pieces
into 1 ½” length pieces. The pipe that you are bending will nest inside of the pieces, so you can draw your shape
on the surface you’re forming on, and then glue or screw the pieces down on the line. You then lay the heated pipe
in your form; drop the next one on the bender and cycle through parts. The advantage to the Build-A-Bend is that
it is hands-free, while the advantage to the first method of forming is that it allows for very subtle curves.
The Build-A-Bend System
For a basic course on the use of jigs in bending PVC, see the Project section, and also review the videos on
http://www.pvcbendit.com. As we make advances in our forming techniques, we will share them with you on the
web site. Certain things, like the Build-A-Bend, we are more than willing to fabricate for you. If you’d rather get
straight to the bending, just place an order on pvcbendit.com, and we’ll cut the parts for you and send them your
way. If you give us a call in the ordering process, we’ll make you exactly what you need.
Project 1, a four-element table on page 22 shows how to use the basic two-dimensional jig to make an accu-
rate, repeatable curve along an entire design element. Project 2, a tri-pod table on page 26 takes up the problem
of bending only sections of the element.
Project 3, another type of tri-pod table, in page 29, uses a secondary jig to allow curves in multiple planes.
Project 10, a helical stand shown on page 37, shows how to create accurate, repeatable curves in three dimen-
sions.
A lot of the other projects you’ll see here, including the greenhouse, the misting tunnel and the booth, are done
using the Build-A-Bend system.
Assembly
PVC cement allows little set-up time. Before cementing any joints, assemble the project dry. Spring clamps
are handy for holding things in place. Work out your assembly procedure now, not after cement has been applied.
See the first few projects below for examples of problems and solutions.
Plan before you glue! The more complex the project is, the more precise everything has to be for it to look
right. You don’t want to get halfway done gluing something and then notice you have a fitting facing in the wrong
direction. The best way to cement a large project is to dry fit the entire thing and then take apart and cement the
joints one at a time. This way, you know that the pieces are all in the right place. Some projects won’t allow this,
however, and we show you a few different ways to deal with this.
SECTION 3:
Projects
This section contains various projects that we at PVC Bendit have built using PVC. The first few have been
chosen to introduce you to common procedures. For these projects we have included detailed step-by-step direc-
tions. By the time you’ve got them down, you’ll have the methods to get really creative with this fun, flexible
material. The rest of the examples in this section show pictures of finished projects.
These projects don’t come close to exhausting the possibilities; they’re just here to show a few examples of
things that can easily become a business unto themselves. Remember, not everyone is a maker. A lot of people
may love the artistry of what you create, but they cannot bring themselves to actually get down and do the work.
In these cases, you can do the production at home or in a small workshop and be in business for yourself. Whether
the project is as simple as a table or as complex as a self-watering greenhouse, if your design is impeccable and
your cost competitive, there is a market for it.
The empowerment that comes from being in charge of production and thereby in charge of the total business
cannot be overstated. If you make a greenhouse for yourself, then you can feed yourself. If you make greenhouses
for your entire neighborhood, then you’ve not only got a business, you’ve also got a self-sufficient neighborhood.
The rewards for something like that go far beyond the simple money. There can be a dramatic improvement in
not only your quality of life, but in that of everyone your business encounters.
While this is a dramatic example, it is one of the many possibilities created by PVC Bendit. On the more
practical note though, starting a custom furniture shop that has an affordable raw material can be very satisfying
as well. Either way, it’s up to you. When given the right tools, you can do anything.
PROJECT 1
Four-element table
The four-element table
This table base uses a minimal number of elements, yet it is surprisingly rigid. It is adaptable to many light-
duty applications. For a larger table, use larger-diameter pipe. The example here uses ¾” pipe, and is designed
as the base for a coffee table. It is 17” high and supports a glass tabletop 24” deep by 38” long. To build it,
first sketch out the project in two elevations.
This step is important. It really helps to have
a solid idea of exactly what you’re going to do
so you know exactly how your pieces should
be. Note that the elements are simple curves
in only two dimensions.
Set up your jig by marking out a base line,

choosing a center, measuring out from the
center to find the ends, and finally measuring
out from the ends. Here we are preparing to
bend the arms of the table. Each arm is an arc
with a width of 31” and a height of 6”.
In this application, we will allow our flex-

Project sketches – both elevations ible fence material to form a natural arc. The
fence material here is simply a 1” strip of For-
mica. Use clamps or blocks to set the fence
into position, and then lay a line of hot glue
along the back of it. Mark a reference line (in
this case, the center), and also mark cut-off
lines at each end.
Measure the length of PVC you will need,

and cut two sticks, each about 4” longer than
final length. Use a square to mark reference
lines at the middle of each stick. Following
all safety recommendations, heat one of the
sticks using PVC Bendit. Wearing gloves,
carefully remove the softened stick from the
bender, and then place it, using light finger
pressure, against the fence. Line up the ref-
erence mark on the fence with the one on
the stick. Hold the stick in place until it has
cooled sufficiently to keep its shape. When
cool, transfer the cut-off lines from the fence
to the stick.
Make a second element identical to the

first, and then cut the ends.
Note: The accurate measuring, marking,

and cutting of curved elements present certain
challenges. Find a repeatable method, and
use it consistently. A curved element, for ex-
Pieces bent and ready to cut ample, will not lay up flat against the fence of
a miter saw. Find a solution that works for you
before making any cuts, just make sure you do
it exactly the same way every time. Clamp your
work when making cuts, especially when using
a power saw. Wear eye protection.
Now set up your jig for the leg elements. The

arc for the legs is 19” wide by 14” high.
Form and cut the leg elements, following the
procedures above.
Dog bones hold the arms and legs of the table

together. A dog bone is two 90° slip tee fittings
joined by a piece of straight pipe. In this case,
the pipe should be about 1 1/4” long, to fit com-
Leg pieces bent and ready to cut
pletely within the fittings. For this type of dog
bone, we don’t want any pipe showing between
the fittings. Be sure to cut it just a little shy of
the actual combined depth of the fittings.
Before any cementing, do a dry assem-

bly. On a flat, level surface, set up a temporary
frame to hold the legs square where they touch
the ground. Be sure that your assembly surface
is perfectly level, or you won’t be able to check
whether your table is level. For best results,
work from the bottom to the top. Once you have
the elements positioned approximately how you
want them, lock in the angle of the legs using an
angle set or something similar.
Dog bone fittings Find a height for the fittings on the leg ele-
ments. Disassemble the table base, and mark
all the legs.
Re-assemble, check all the measurements

and angles, and then determine placement of the
fittings on the arm elements. Disassemble, and
mark the arms. Re-assemble, then tack-cement
the fittings to the legs. We are using dyed ce-
ment here for clarity. For the cleanest results,
you may want to use a disposable chip brush or
cotton swab for applying cement.
Using an angle set to ensure

consistency of leg angles
Adjust the angles of the arms so that all
four ends are at the same height from your
work surface. If you’ve been accurate to this
point, your table base should now be perfectly
square. Double-check all measurements and
angles before doing final cement-up. Spring
clamps are handy here for holding things in
place while you make final adjustments. If
there is a problem, you should be able to break
the tack cementing you did earlier.
Tack-cement the fittings to the arm ele-

ments, and then do final glue-up on all joints.
Allow to set up for two hours, then install
end-caps and apply finish as desired.
Tack cemented legs temporarily hold leg position
Four-element table after final cementing

PROJECT 2
Tripod table 1
As before, begin by making a
sketch of the legs, then set up your
jig by marking out a base line. Be-
cause we want the middle 14” or so
of each element to remain straight,
cut a piece of scrap lumber longer
than 14”, and hot glue it to the jig
along the base line. Mark where the
curves will begin. From those marks,
measure out and mark the ends. We
are basing this design on 45°, so for
the legs we go down 9” and out 9”.
For the arms, 7” and 7”. Using your
flexible fence material, find the curve
for the legs. Here we have chosen
an S-curve. Hot glue the fence into
place. Now mark the reference line
and the leg cut-off line. In this case
we are marking the reference line at
the beginning of the leg bend.
The tripod table in its simple form (no top)

Measure the length of PVC you will need,
and cut three sticks, each about 4” longer than
final length. Use a square to mark reference
lines at the appropriate spots.
The interesting wrinkle here is that you do

not want to heat the section of the element that
remains straight. You could, but who wants
to form something straight to make it, well,
straight? Line up the reference line on the
stick with the beginning of the heated section
of the bender. Do a test bend. For smaller-
radius bends, you may have to heat the stick
slightly past your reference line.
The jig set up to bend the legs Slide the stick into place on the bender,
heat the required amount of time, follow safe-
ty procedures, etc., and then hold the heated stick against the fence with light pressure until cool. If you have a
helper, this is a good time to either have them wet the pipe down with cool water and a sponge or blow the pipe
through with a gun connected to an air compressor. That dramatically reduces the cooling time. Note that a scrap
piece of fence material is used to keep the straight section of the stick square to the reference line. Repeat for the
other two sticks. Transfer the cut-off lines from the fence to the sticks.
Make a second reference mark at the beginning of the curve for the arms, and transfer this mark to the three
sticks. Now set up the fence for the curve. Just as above, use these marks to determine the insertion point of the
bender. Make your bends; transfer the remaining cut-off marks, cut the elements to length.
Make up three dog bones as in Project 1,

but do not cement them together until they
have been threaded onto the legs.
On a flat, level surface, use a compass,

protractor, and straightedge to mark a center
with three rays 120° apart. This is easier than
it sounds, and it will save you a world of hurt
when trying to line up your pieces properly.
Using spring clamps or something similar to
hold the dog bones in position, set the legs into
approximate position. Measure from the cen-
ter, strike an average, set the legs at positions
equidistant from the center, and use blocks to
hold the legs in place.
The jig completed for bending the arms

At this point, assembly gets a bit finicky.
Short of building an assembly jig, use a measuring tape, a level, and your eyeballs to set up the project as straight
and true as you can. Verify, especially, that the three straight sections are parallel to one another. You may want
to tack-cement until you are certain that everything lines up. In any case, cement the middle dog bone first, then
use a spacer to find the positions for the others.
Do a final check. Straight sections should be perpendicular to a level floor. A flat board set on top should be
level. Fine-tuning can be accomplished by shaving off the ends of the arms or legs as necessary. Install end-caps,
and finish as desired.
PROJECT 3
Tripod table 2
This is essentially the same base as the one above, but with a twist.
Literally, we’re going to add a twist to the original tripod table. In this
version, the two curves of each element are in different planes, to give
a feeling of motion. Note that the dog bones are arranged to match the
apparent turning of the legs.
Follow directions for Tripod Table 1 as far as the first set of bends.
Note that in order for the table legs to twist in the opposite direction to
what is shown, do the ‘arm’ bends first.
Now construct your secondary jig. Here we want the arms to be

offset from the legs by 60°. Make two triangles out of particleboard or
something similar, then attach a piece of board across them. Set this
jig atop your primary jig, hot-glue into place, then mark and set up a
fence along it just as you’ve done before.
From here on out, assemble as you did for Tripod Table 1.
3-D jig for forming the arms

PROJECT 4
6-foot coat rack

This unit is constructed without fittings. It uses butt joints,
which provide relatively little contact area. Strength is in-
creased here by cementing all six elements around a central
core.
The leg bends begin 14” from the ground, and extend 10”
outwards. The coat hooks are 5” by 2 ½”. The tallest element
is 6’ high, and the difference in height from element to element
is 3”.
Once you have made all your bends and cuts, lay out two
elements that will be positioned opposite one another. Be-
tween them, place a stick of straight stick the same length as
the straight section of the shortest element. Make sure that
with the feet lined up against a piece of board clamped to your
assembly table, the straight sections are square to the board.
Cement these three sticks together. Be sure to thoroughly
prime all the pipes, and also be sure to cement the entire point
of contact.
On the clamped board, measure and mark out the positions

for two more legs. Since we’re dividing the circle six ways
now, you’ll want the legs to be at 60-degree angles from one
another. Cement these into place, once again taking care to ce-
ment along the entire point of contact.
As the unit will now stand, set it up on a compass similar to

the one used for Tripod Table 1. Cement the final two elements into place.
On our rack here, we’ve installed basic end-caps in the feet, and placed exterior end-plugs on the hooks. If
you plan on loading up only one side with heavy coats, about a pound of lead shot in each leg should add enough
stability.
PROJECT 5
Plant stand
The basic tripod design lends itself to all sorts of
uses. Here is a simple plant stand, which is remark-
ably similar to our Tripod Tables. This one is not ce-
mented but simply held together with snap-on fittings,
and so can be easily disassembled for storage.
This plant stand breaks down quickly for

off-season storage
Three-legged plant stand with snap tees

for quick disassembly
PROJECT 6
Multiple plant stand
This plant stand

uses multiple
building tech-
niques. Use plant
pots as jigs when
bending the arms
PROJECT 7
Bicycle stand
Here is another application for the basic
3-legged design. For added strength, we are
using 1” PVC. The legs are 16” high with an
extension of 8”. This gives good stability by
bringing the two front feet well forward of the
bicycle. The two arms are an exercise in just
how radical a bend can be made. Using your
standard 2-D jig, make a mark for the top of
the element (where stick is folded at 90°) on a
straight fence. Centered 3 ½” from the fence,
hot-glue anything round (we used a short piece
of 2” diameter pipe). Heat your stick until soft,
then ease into place, hold until cool. For the
back leg, you may either cut it short or bend it
to form, as we’ve done here, a helmet peg. To
finish the arms, handlebar tape would be a nice
touch.
The bent bike rack will easily hold a road bike when made with 1”pipe
Note: To achieve the 90° bends here, we’ve compromised the strength of the PVC. Just how much strength
has been lost, we couldn’t say. The unit shown is holding up 22 pounds of bicycle, and shows no sign of strain.
For hanging monster downhill bikes, you may want to use a larger gauge of pipe. You’ll have to experiment for
yourself. Use PVC Bendit to dimple the arms slightly, to make a cradle for the top tube of the bike.
PROJECT 8
8-element table
The open design of the 4-element table above can be stiffened for heavier usage in various ways. The problem
here was how to stiffen the legs. The solution was rivets. Standard long rivets (1/2”) will span three wall thick-
nesses of 3/4” pipe. Having assembled and cemented the first four elements, clamp the heated leg struts between
a form (a piece of larger diameter pipe cut in half) and the leg itself.
After the 90° fittings are installed, turn the table upside-down. Heat the final two sticks, and then slip the ends
into the fittings. The center sections will lie along the assembly surface, allowing a hardware attachment of the
tabletop. Scaled up and using larger pipe, this could make a worktable or dining room table.
PROJECT 9
Apatosaurus
Yes, bending PVC can be fun and educational. This is a good project for introducing kids to design and con-
struction. However, if you are going to do this with a child, adult supervision is necessary, and you should never
let them independently use PVC Bendit or handle hot PVC.
To design Dina here, we began with a diagram of an actual apatosaurus skeleton. Dina’s size was determined
by the ribs. Calculating the space required for six ribs of 1/2” pipe yielded a total body length of 48”.
Using a standard 3’ bender, form the front 36” of the body on a standard 2-D jig. Heat the remainder of the
stick, and form the tail. Partially reheat the end of the tail, and use clamps to squeeze it between two blocks of
wood. Using a band saw, cut to form a taper.
On the completed body, mark the positions of the legs and ribs. To form these parts, heat them in the bender,
clamp them in place on the body, and then bend them down into position until cool. Start with the front legs.
Rivet them into place (after which Dina will stand by herself), and then work your way back. Set up blocks to
keep the widths consistent. Use a scrap piece of 1/2” pipe to keep the distances between ribs consistent.
PROJECT 10
Helical stand
With a little creativity, all sorts of objects
and assemblages can be used as jigs. This
project is a simple example of how to create
bends in three dimensions. Cut a cardboard
tube to length. Clamp the end of a piece of
rope along one end of the tube, wind the rope
in a spiral to the other end, and clamp it there.
The tube, a 3-dimensional object, is now the
jig base. The rope, uniformly flexible in all
directions, is the fence. Do note that to create
a bend of this length, a 9’ Bendit is required.
If you’ve got the work space, the 9’ PVC Ben-
dit is the way to go. You can do everything
that a 3-footer can do, and then you’ve got
worlds of options that would be difficult, if
not impossible, with any other method.
The helical stand is a fine

addition to any room
P R O J E C T 11
Helical table
Yes, yet another 3-legged
table base. As in Project 10,
use a cardboard tube and length
of rope as your jig and fence.
Make reference marks on the jig
for the ends of the elements.
Transfer the marks to the
elements when cool, and cut at
the marks. The elements are
attached together using
modified dog bones. Some
trial and error may be in order
when it comes to determining
the length of the bones. Start
with sticks longer than think
you’ll need, then cut them
down until the project goes
together the way you want it
to. Do note that because in
this sign we are using elbow
fittings cap the legs and arms,
you must square up and level
the unit before cementing it
together.
The triple-helix table is sturdy and stylish Here is an illustration of the

3-D jig being used
PROJECT 12
Trellis
Using curved elements within a folding frame, you can create a trellis, as pictured, or a room divider. This is
just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to scroll design. When you’ve got the pipe up to the right temperature, it
has the consistency of a cooked spaghetti noodle, which means you can make it into any shape you want.
PROJECT 13
Multi-purpose rack
The multi-purpose rack is very versatile
Not every project has to be a challenge. With PVC Bendit, all sorts of convenient items can be fashioned with
a minimum of fuss. Here we formed the elements between two wooden blocks on a 2-D jig.
PROJECT 14
Camp chair
PVC Bendit allows PVC to be not only bent, but also flattened. Here we’ve ovalized the sticks in order to
make a more comfortable seating surface.
PROJECT 15
Truck bed frame

Being weatherproof, PVC is ideal for any sort of item that lives outdoors. It does help to buy UV resistant
PVC piping, as the sunlight can make the pipe brittle over time. Even normal pipe is UV resistant, but furniture
grade and electrical conduit can live in the sun for decades.
PROJECT 16
Flea market booth
As this is designed to be assembled and disassembled on a regular basis, some of the connections have been
left uncemented, but pre-drilled for screws. This booth breaks down into four pieces in about 20 seconds, and can
be put back together just as quickly.
PROJECT 17
Greenhouse
One of the useful features of PVC
when it comes to garden applications is
that you can run water through it. Us-
ing plumbing-style fittings, build your
frame to whatever size and shape you
want. Incorporate a hose-connection
fitting somewhere convenient, and in-
stall spray nozzles where appropriate. If
you’re not going to bury the sole plates
on the walls, you can drain the green-
house when the time comes by discon-
necting the hose and lifting up the op-
posite end of the house. Also, if you’re
not going to bury your bottom plates,
be sure to use landscaping staples or
form stakes to keep your structure from
blowing away.
Dry assembly of self-watering greenhouse in the shop
You can put your sole plates into a concrete footer below ground level. Just make sure that your hose con-
nection is firm before casting it into the mud. You’ll also want to make sure that the whole structure is slanted
slightly downhill at a grade of about ¼” per foot. Include a drain valve at the low end so that you can empty the
water out for freezing temperatures, or install radiant heating systems
into your concrete footer to prevent freezing.
There are almost endless permutations of the self-watering green-

house. You can customize this thing to any shape or footprint, and you
can easily build custom greenhouses for terraced hillsides, wall hang-
ings, ceiling fixtures and so on. Just picture that – a sleek, stylish wall
hanging that also grows the tomatoes and herbs in your kitchen. While
this may have been somewhat possible before, using the PVC Bendit,
you can develop beautiful custom plant habitats for any situation.
Detail of misting nozzles
Once you’ve got your framework complete, you’ve got plenty of options when it comes to putting a cover on
your greenhouse. In some environments, a shade cloth is more useful than a true glazing, and in other environ-
ments, particularly high altitudes, diffused-light covers are superior to full transparency. One thing to keep in
mind is that to have the watering function, you can’t puncture the pipes of the framing. The way to get around
this is to use snap clamps on the sole plates of the walls and zip ties around the ridge beam and the ribs where two
sheets butt against each other. If you’re using a shade cloth, this is all very simple because the cloth is more like
a net than a piece of fabric.
Misting tunnel based on self-watering greenhouse designs
…And in the future…
Remember, any one of these projects, and any good project, has its place in the market. Even things that seem
like they fit a tiny niche can be wildly successful. Perfect your product, and it is ready to offer.
In times gone by, if you had a great idea, you would essentially have to sell it out from under yourself to actu-
ally get it any exposure. You’d end up being the inventor of some wildly successful idea that you’d never actually
see a dime from.
Thanks to the Internet, you have the power to offer your ideas and your work to a large portion of the popu-
lation of this planet without a mega-corporate sales force. You don’t have to sell out your ideas to make them
available. With the PVC Bendit and related tools, you can keep the fabrication process in your own shop, and you
can keep your material costs down without having to sacrifice strength or appearance. You can hire people you
know to help you start a thriving business, and you can also offer your business to the entire world. Think local,
but don’t forget global.
Think about it like this: The book that you’re holding in your hands was put together by a few guys who work
together in a very small business. The same hands that are typing these words put the PVC Bendit together. We
do less business in our home town than anywhere else, but you’ve got what we’re making. In that same way, you
can use this tool to start your own business. If you’re lucky, you’ll have a local market. If you’re not, you’ll be
global, and that’s not exactly bad luck at all, now, is it? If you make a living from people all around the world,
you’re bringing that money back to your home town. Revenues that come from outside of your town can and will
improve the local standard of living.
It isn’t an exaggeration to say that this one tool can change your life.
APPENDIX
What is PVC?
PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is a general-

purpose plastic. You find it almost everywhere,
whether you’re aware of it or not. From textiles
to cable insulation, toys to toilets, this stuff has
worked its way into our everyday lives. What
we’re most concerned with here is PVC pipe,
because of its unrealized potential. While the
material itself has many merits, PVC pipe is
very easy to work with. It has an intuitively
designed fitting system, it cuts and glues easily,
and it -- because of these features -- is ripe for
creative minds.
There are certain properties of this plastic

that are actually fairly unique, one of which is
the backbone of the whole PVC Bendit experi-
ence. PVC can be heated, reshaped, and cooled
to its original strength. As long as you don’t burn it, the chemical structure of the PVC remains unchanged after
the heating process, so you’ve got the same pipe you had before you bent it.
Other properties of PVC pipe that are worth mentioning are:

Flame resistance
Oil resistance
Abrasion resistance
High tensile strength
Oxidation resistance
Chemical resistance
Biological growth resistance
One very interesting fact about PVC is that in its pure form, it is actually more transparent than polyethylene.
Clear PVC pipe is available, and for certain projects, it will take your work to the next level.
All PVC pipes are essentially the same, and all of them will work with the PVC Bendit system, but it is worth
mentioning that there are different types available. Within each type, there are three main schedules and two
variations. We’ll go through those first, and then we’ll get into the types of PVC.
Schedules (wall thickness)
This image shows schedules 40 and 80, both slip and thread. Note the difference in wall thickness.
Class 200, or Schedule 20, is the least common type of PVC pipe. It is thin-walled, low-strength and pressure,
and all in all not that useful. You’ll still find it in low-pressure drainage applications, but that’s about it. It can be
bent with PVC Bendit, but it doesn’t take very long at all, so you’ll want to be careful with it. If you are working
with it, you will still find PVC Bendit useful for getting around corners. On the opposite end, if you’re using this
system, you may find this pipe useful for visual details that won’t be bearing much of a load.
Schedule 40 is the most common pipe. It is the middleweight entry, known as standard plumbing pipe. The
wall is reasonably thick without being too heavy. It has good structural strength, good pressure strength, and it
is just a great all-around material. This pipe is strong enough to make furniture and small structures with, it is
strong enough to handle residential water pressure without any problems, and it is very reasonably priced due to
high supply. This stuff also works absolutely beautifully with the PVC Bendit system. It has a relatively quick
heat time and it bends consistently. When you really get into the world of bending to build, schedule 40 PVC pipe
will probably be your workhorse.
Schedule 80 PVC is the super beefy, super thick, heavy-duty pipe. It has a very thick wall in comparison to
the other pipes, it is much stronger, and it weighs twice as much as the schedule 40. While all PVC pipe has an
extremely long useful life, this is the ultimate material for permanent or long-standing projects. If you’re think-
ing about building a large-sized permanent outdoor structure, this grade is the best choice. Schedule 80 also
works beautifully with the PVC Bendit. It doesn’t take much longer to heat up than the schedule 40 because once
you get a certain amount of the wall heated up; the stored heat travels through the pipe quite quickly. It is a little
overkill for furniture, but if you’re the overbuilding type, it is the way to go for every application.
Schedule 120 PVC pipe is the most rare pipe on the market. It is super thick-walled and able to withstand
very high pressures. This schedule can be bent with PVC Bendit, but you’ve got to be patient. The extreme wall
thickness does take more time to heat up. In the same respect, though, this grade of pipe will make the strongest,
longest-lasting projects.
There are two types of pipe wall that you can buy: Solid core and cellular core. We recommend solid core
PVC for bending applications because the pipe is solid PVC all the way through. That means that when you are
softening it, the whole thing changes texture consistently, and it bends exactly how you want it to.
Cellular core PVC pipe has a layer of foam between two slick PVC walls. It also bends with the PVC Bendit
system, but because the foam acts as an insulator, it behaves a little differently. It can still be bent perfectly, but
we can’t be sure how the heating and cooling affects the integrity of the foam. One thing to say in its defense is
that cellular core PVC pipe feels a little more rigid in places where you are running a straight pipe horizontally
over a distance longer than 24”. It is less likely to develop a droop over time, though it should be noted that we
do not recommend running any horizontal framing member unsupported over longer than 24 inches.
White PVC plumbing pipe is the most common PVC pipe

that you get from the hardware store. This is what we use most
often in our shop. It is inexpensive , readily available, and it is a
very reliable material. This is the standard pipe that plumbers use,
and it is sufficient for any project that is utilitarian, painted, dyed
or otherwise finished. If you don’t require a blemish-free finish
or you’re going to cover it up in some way, this is the material for
the job.
Furniture Grade PVC pipe is very similar to regular PVC

pipe except that it is better stabilized for UV resistance and it will
have a blemish-free finish . The strength grading (schedules 40,
80) is the same, but you don’t need to paint, dye or cover it to pro-
tect it from the sun. In every other way, it is the same. It is fully
compatible with standard plumbing pipe fittings and cement. There
is a slight difference in appearance: It is glossier than the plumbing
pipe, and it has no imprint codes on it.
Colored PVC is in the same grade as the furniture pipe, it is

just available in different colors. There are slight differences in
chemical composition due to the coloring agents, but they in no
way affect the performance. Colored PVC is just as strong as any
other type, and it can save you a lot of time in the finishing process.
It has a slightly different feel from other pipes (actually, they’re all
a little different, but they all work the same). When colored PVC
pipe is heated for bending, it has a slightly more rubbery feel to it.
The colors themselves make you feel like you’re playing with toys
as you work with the pipe.
Clear PVC is available in both standard and extra UV pro-
tected versions. You can get it in both schedule 40 and 80. This
pipe is the most rigid feeling of all the types of PVC. It is also the
purest PVC there is, as PVC is highly transparent in its raw form.
It is really cool to bend clear PVC because it turns a milky white
color when it is heated and then returns to its original transparency
on cooling. One thing to note is that you definitely want to use a
saw to cut this type. The ratcheting pipe cutter can snap it if your
workspace isn’t warm enough.
Gray Electrical Conduit is the ultra rugged PVC. It is slightly

more plasticized, highly resistant to UV rays, and able to be buried
without any concern for its health. This type is the least likely to
shatter on impact. Even though all PVC is both UV and shock re-
sistant, the electrical conduit is by far the strongest in both of these
categories. This stuff does retain more flexibility than other types,
but that really just means that you don’t want to do long, unsup-
ported horizontal runs, and you shouldn’t be doing that anyway.
Flex PVC is PVC pipe that is not rigid. It still cements into
fittings like normal PVC pipe, but it never turns solid. You should
not use the PVC Bendit system on it because it is not necessary,
but you can incorporate it into your projects. It is definitely not a
solution to the problems that are dealt with using PVC Bendit, as
it will never be solid, but again, you never know when a project
might need a part that stays flexible.
Fittings
A fitting is the piece of plastic that you use to join your pipes together. While there are other methods, like
squishing and riveting, the standard pipe fitting is the best way to attach pipes to each other. There are a lot of
types of fittings, and we’ll cover quite a few of them here.
Slip fittings work either internally or externally by slipping the pipe into the fitting, or
vice versa, and cementing the joint.
Thread fittings work like nuts and bolts. Most of the time, the threaded fitting must still
be cemented onto the pipe.
Straight fittings accept the same size of pipe in all of their insertion points.
Reducing fittings accept multiple sizes of pipes in the same fitting. Many of the different
types are available as reducers as well as just straight fittings.
Coupler – This is your standard-issue fitting for splicing two pipes end to end.
Elbows – Elbows make sharp corners of 90, 45, 30, 22.5, and 11 degrees. They have two
openings like couplers, but the openings are at different angles.
Tee – This is a three-way connection that allows you to bring pipes together in the shape
of the letter ‘T’. Tees are available with either 90- or 120-degree corners.
Three-Way – A three-way fitting, also known as a side-outlet 90, has three inserts that
are at 90-degree angles from each other on two planes, making something like a corner of a
box.
Cross – The cross fitting has four insertion points at 90-degree angles from each other,
all of which are on a single plane.
Four-Way – The four-way fitting has four insertion points at 90-degree angles from each
other on two planes. Think of it as the point where two rafters meet a ridge beam on a 12:12
pitch roof.
Five-Way – A five-way fitting is like a cross with another insertion point coming off at
90 degrees on a second plane.
Six-Way – A six-way fitting has six insertion points all at 90-degree angles to each oth-
er.
Wye – A wye fitting has a straight run like a coupler, with a third insertion point coming
off at a 45-degree angle.
Side-Outlet Wye – A side-outlet wye fitting has three insertion points at 120-degree
angles to one another with a fourth insertion point that is 90 degrees different from the first
three on a second plane.
Slip-Slide Tees – Slip tees are fittings that have one insertion point that cements onto the
pipe like a traditional fitting and a hoop that allows you to slip it over another pipe without
cutting into it. They make great door hinges, and they are integral to the “dog bones” in later
chapters of this book.
Snap Tees – Snap tees are similar to slip tees in that they go around the middle of the
pipe instead of at the end. The difference is that a snap tee snaps right onto the side instead
of having to be slipped over the end.
Quick-disconnect unions function like couplers, but they have two threaded rings so
they can be disconnected from each other without having to break a cemented joint.
Ball valves – Ball valves are union-type fittings that have a ball valve in them. These are
great if you’re working with compressed air or water and you need to be able to control the
flow.
Manifolds – Manifolds are a class of fitting unto themselves. There are a lot of different
types available, and the pictures will speak much more clearly than any words can. These
special fittings make some very interesting things possible.
Snap clamps – While they’re not exactly fittings, snap clamps are very useful PVC fix-
tures. They allow you to clip materials like tarps and thin plastic sheets onto PVC pipes, and
they’re extremely easy to use.
Caps – A cap on the end of a stick can be a simple but profound visual detail. Caps slip
onto the outside of the pipe like any other fitting. They are available both square ended and
round.
Plugs – A plug is very similar to a cap, except it slips into the pipe instead of outside.
They are also available square and rounded.
There are many other specialized fittings available; you’ve just got to find them online. If you can imagine a
pipe fitting for a job, chances are it has already been made. Take a look around, and you’ll be surprised at what’s
out there. There are more fitting types than we have had a chance to experiment with, and each new fitting opens
up tons of possibilities for further innovation. While one of the benefits of bending PVC is the reduced number of
fittings required, fittings still are central to the creative process. You’ll definitely use less than you would before,
but that’s also what makes fitting selection so important: by taking a little time to draw out your finished project,
you can have a solid picture of what fittings you’ll need. If you can see in your sketches a specific type of union,
you’ll know exactly what to buy to make it happen.
Three PVC user groups

Electricians have been using the PVC Bendit
with astounding results. Some of our clients are
happy to report that they have cut their fitting and
cement costs in half by making bends instead of
buying them. Not only have they been saving
themselves and their clients money, they’ve been
saving that most valuable and limited resource on
earth: time.
Theater groups have recently adopted the

PVC Bendit system as the go-to tool for their
prop, set, and costume design bending. Believe
it or not, even when you go to a very high-class
theater production, you are looking at hundreds of
linear feet of PVC pipe that have been shaped and
adorned to create the environments, effects, cos-
tumes and props. PVC is light enough that they
Under-slab conduit work
can change scenes quickly, and the light weight also helps when a king has a scepter to hold for the entire show,
etc. Now that this tool has burst onto that scene, we can look forward to higher quality productions with more
interesting designs. Some of the things we’re hearing from these artists are very promising, and we’ll have more
to show by the next edition of this book.
Pool installation and repairmen use the PVC Bendit system quite a bit. Before this, they were using brush
torches, blankets and heat guns, but these guys end up having to bend entire 10’ sticks of pipe on a regular basis.
There is no such thing as a standard installation when you’re dealing with custom and unique designs, and these
guys sure do a lot of that. Whether it’s trying to figure out how to replace a part in an area where the surround-
ings have been remodeled or just getting the pipe around a corner, this tool comes to the rescue every day for the
tradesmen who have adopted it.
PVC Bendit offers portability, affordability and capability far exceeding anything else on the market when it
comes to bending PVC pipe. PVC users who previously shied away from purchasing benders due to cost, lack
of capability and/or portability now have a product they can afford and one that will enable them to expand their
concept of how PVC can be used.
Capability
This tool is the longest PVC bender on the market, and each series of bender has a wide range of diameters
of pipe that it will work with. PVC Bendit’s revolutionary design heats pipe from the inside, allowing it to soften
uniformly, which makes it easy to bend PVC or acrylic tubing. That means a wider range of bends, compound
bends and more without kinking the pipe wall. It can also bend sheet materials like ABS and polycarbonate. The
Series A benders will handle pipes from half inch to 1 1/4 inch. The Series B takes it from there, covering a range
from 1 1/4 inches all the way out to 3-inch pipe. The Bendit is available in bendable lengths more than three times
as long as competing products.
Affordability
You can buy a cheap bender that will have you struggling to make bends larger than your knee, require a dif-
ferent bender for every gauge of pipe, and still potentially require an external conduit bender. You can also spend
lots on a heavy box that will heat 2 feet of pipe. Or, you can buy a moderately priced tool that will allow you to
bend PVC effectively at lengths that are impossible with other tools and can handle many different gauges with
the same bender. That tool is the PVC Bendit. Affordable bending is now at hand.
Portability
You don’t have to have a big, bulky box or a dozen different benders to bend PVC effectively. Whether you’re
a tradesman on the move or a home-based do-it-yourselfer, it helps to have one tool for the job. The best tools
are the right size and weight for what you expect to accomplish. PVC Bendit is compact and light, the whole
package weighing just a few pounds, and small enough to carry around in a shoulder bag. At the same time, the
PVC Bendit is ruggedly built from brushed, galvanized steel, so you can toss it in the back of the truck without
worrying about it.
PVC Bendit is for Everyone

Electricians
Plumbers /HVAC Golf Courses Designers

General Contractors Alarm System Installers Chefs
Home Remodelers Swimming Pool Installers Art Supplies Stores
Handymen Pool Contractors Disaster Relief Orgs
Systems Contractor Pool and Spa Services Theme Parks
Cabling Installation Fire Sprinkler Systems Nurseries
Datacom Technicians Structural / Agricultural Greenhouse Builders
Landscapers Medical Equipment Mfrs Patio Furniture Builders
Sprinkler System Installers Theatre Groups Hobby Farmers
Grounds Maintenance Art Teachers Magicians
College Art Dept High School Art Dept Event Planners
Parks & Recreation Dept Art Schools This is the best tool available for
heat bending PVC. We don’t say that because we make it, we make it because our customer feedback tells us so.
Anyone who has used the PVC Bendit knows it’s true. PVC Bendit’s revolutionary design heats pipe from the
inside, allowing the pipe to soften uniformly, unlike any other methods. You can stop worrying about the PVC
bending process, and you’ll be able do things your competitors can’t even dream of. Our selection of forming
tools makes PVC Bendit a total system. This gives beginners and pros alike the ability to bend PVC into whatever
shape the project calls for. Available in bendable lengths three times as long as competing products.
To see pricing and product options, and to order go to

http://store.pvcbendit.com/pvc_bendit_s/1817.htm
PVC Bendit Testimonials

Words of praise from our happy clients.
The original bender was assembled and sent out the same day as ordered. Exceptional service... We pur-
chased the unit for a rather unconventional use. Oskaloosa has a lighted Christmas parade each year and Musco
builds a float for. This years float was a over sized sleigh that used 3” Schedule 40 electrical PVC for the runners.
The conduit needed to curve up at the front of the runner and that is what we were going to use the bender for.
Wish you success with your product.
George
Thank you for introducing me to PVC Bendit - the examples of the work in your site are terrific, particularly
the complex spiral and free-form multi-planar shapes. Beautiful. I feel this kind of need comes up fairly regularly
in my stage design work and I’m glad to have source to turn to next time ‘round. (So to speak.)
There might well be an entire early twentieth century European restaurant kitchen in my next Opera com-
mission - your techniques would be a marvelous way to reach easily a wonderful looking complicated level of
realism.
I’ll keep in touch,
Yours,
Tom
Thomas Lynch, President
Charles Corcoran, Associate
Cove Creek Design, Inc.
My nephew bought one of these about four months ago to work on his hydro garden. He was meaning to do
an add on for a long time, but he wanted to learn from mistakes that he’d made in the past and just make a better
setup. He won’t stop talking about the darn thing. Now he’s a consultant for other gardeners, and this one tool is
the thing that put him in business. Thank you for what you’re making, it’s helping my nephew make a living. Keep
up the good work, guys.
Jim F.
Austin, TX
...We had a client who wanted us to wind his outdoor lighting conduits around a columnade like vines. We were
far enough into the job that we had to accept the change order, but we had a hard time making it work. Our heat
guns were not doing the job, I can tell you that much. I took a little time to do some research, and I found this tool.
We were able to do the job so easily that I already can’t remember life before PVC Bendit. This is my go to tool
now for any conduit bending that I have to do. Next time I get a plumbing gig, I’m gonna see if this thing can help
me make a lower bid, and I’ll never do another electrical job without it. You guys saved my butt. Thanks.
anonymous handyman
(from voicemail)
Vic,
My whole department is excited about your product. In Theatre we’ve been bending PVC for many years, but
our methods were all terrible. As I’m sure you know, filling it with sand and heating it from the outside with heat
guns and blow torches just doesn’t work very well, and the lovely black smoke is a serious problem.
I intend to not only use your product for our next show, one of our graduate students is going to put together
a poster presentation on it. If everything goes as smoothly as I expect you can expect some coverage from us....
....At any rate, we look forward to our useful new tool/toy.
Patrick Stone
University of Arkansas
Hi Vic,
I am an engineer in the ADC, (advanced developmental composites) for Boeing and I have been showing this
system to a few of my fellow engineers... I think you might get some more orders from here....
Anyway, I am going to be working on 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch. I was going to make some greenhouses and also
some candy canes for Christmas decorations.
I am also thinking about making a portable chicken coop, and a boat garage... If you know anything about the
weather here, boating is great for 3 months out the year, then it has to be covered for the other nine....
Take Care
Dan
Hi Vic,
Thanks for your kind offer. I would happily take a Build-a-bend for 3/4” pipe. I have watched the videos on
the website, and found them amusing and informative. The young guy doing the demo’s seems quite sincere and
enthusiastic....
....I have two projects immediately in mind: some low voltage sprinkler control and landscape lighting wiring
to be run in 1 1/4” PVC underground from a Christie box to the foundation of one of the buildings on our campus,
and a series of communications cable homeruns between buildings that I want to sheath with 3/4” conduit. I’m
looking forward to getting precisely the geometry I want without having to resort to a variety of premade fittings
with standard sweeps; especially in the comm wiring, since some of it will be mounted under the eaves of our
sanctuary, where any sign of kludginess will just draw (unwanted) attention to the installation. Nothing that hasn’t
already been done with your tool, but exciting for me nonetheless.
Kind Regards,
Mark Knight
Saint Bede’s Episcopal Church
“Just wanted to say thanks for getting me the equipment so quickly. I have attached a picture of successfully
bending a 2.5” White schedule 40 PVC as well as 2.5” Harvel clear schedule 40 PVC pipe into a 9.25” radius.
Everything worked out fantastic and we’ll be testing things next week.“
Anonymous Aerospace Client
Vic,
The show we bought the tool for is the next one, but we snuck in one small bend for this show, and the Bendit
is awesome, I’ll keep you posted when we start doing large scale sculpting.
Patrick Stone
Dear Vic,
Thank you so much for the voice mails and emails. Your Customer Service has been great!
We opened our Fall Musical, “Anything Goes,” last Friday and have one more weekend of performances.
So, the reason I haven’t responded yet is simply I was so busy getting the show up & running! In case you don’t
know the play ,it is set on an ocean liner in 1934. Our set design included Art Deco lines, so the Bendit tool was
perfect for creating curved railings that were painted a brass color. We also used it to make a headboard for a
bed in the Upper Class stateroom.
I did have a photographer take shots of the show, so I will have to send those to you soon. Also, I wasn’t the
person who actually used the Bendit, so I have asked the gentlemen who had “hands-on” experience to give me
some feedback as well. I know they thought it was great, but I’m sure you would appreciate something more
specific.
Again- thanks for a great product, very quick delivery and fantastic customer service!
Mary Mitchell-Donahue
Bishop McNamara High School
Theatre Director
Fine Arts Department Chair
Vic, this will transform how we do frames and open up all sorts of new opportunities!
Rachel Porter, CBA
Balloon Splendor
Hi Vic,
I’ve received the PVC Bendit and used it yesterday on the 1 1/4” sched 40 electrical conduit I needed to form
with a complex bend. It worked well, and I’m pleased.

Pvcbendit Ebook

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Pvcbendit Ebook

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bending PVC

For Fun And Profit

Section 1: Bending PVC, 4

Section 2: Beyond plumbing: Making things with PVC, 16

As the name implies, PVC Bendit bends

Once the PVC Bendit is plugged in:

1/2” PVC 1 - 3 minutes

Bending large-diameter PVC

We also recommend that you have

Tools and supplies

Other useful items:

PVC Bendit allows it to be bent into interesting and useful curves.

Making accurate bends:

Simple forming jig

The Build-A-Bend System

The four-element table

Set up your jig by marking out a base line,

In this application, we will allow our flex-

Measure the length of PVC you will need,

Make a second element identical to the

Note: The accurate measuring, marking,

Now set up your jig for the leg elements. The

Dog bones hold the arms and legs of the table

Before any cementing, do a dry assem-

Re-assemble, check all the measurements

Using an angle set to ensure

Tack-cement the fittings to the arm ele-

Tack cemented legs temporarily hold leg position

Four-element table after final cementing

The tripod table in its simple form (no top)

The interesting wrinkle here is that you do

Make up three dog bones as in Project 1,

On a flat, level surface, use a compass,

The jig completed for bending the arms

Now construct your secondary jig. Here we want the arms to be

From here on out, assemble as you did for Tripod Table 1.

3-D jig for forming the arms

6-foot coat rack

On the clamped board, measure and mark out the positions

As the unit will now stand, set it up on a compass similar to

This plant stand breaks down quickly for

Three-legged plant stand with snap tees

Multiple plant stand

This plant stand

The helical stand is a fine

The triple-helix table is sturdy and stylish Here is an illustration of the

The multi-purpose rack is very versatile

Truck bed frame

Flea market booth

Dry assembly of self-watering greenhouse in the shop

There are almost endless permutations of the self-watering green-

Misting tunnel based on self-watering greenhouse designs

…And in the future…

PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is a general-

There are certain properties of this plastic

Other properties of PVC pipe that are worth mentioning are:

Schedules (wall thickness)

White PVC plumbing pipe is the most common PVC pipe

Furniture Grade PVC pipe is very similar to regular PVC

Colored PVC is in the same grade as the furniture pipe, it is

Gray Electrical Conduit is the ultra rugged PVC. It is slightly

Three PVC user groups

Theater groups have recently adopted the