Belt

& Final Drive

Belt & Final Drive right side of the scrap metal is
• Cleaning and Inspection another hole drilled out and
threaded to fit a screw that will
• Tension
reach down to the tensioner
o Wheel alignment
tool. As you can see from the
• Mat1600’s Adjusters
picture the tool is crude but
• Final Drive Bearings-to be written cheap and gets the job done
• Belt Replacement-to be written more accurately than the
original Triumph tool. Those
General Comments of you with your own
The belt is made of rubber and Kevlar, which should machining equipment can
last up to 100,000 miles provided you look after it. make a pretty version if you
The Thunderbird 1600/1700 has a reputation for wish. A plastic one may be
having belt squeak, which was particularly particularly good. The steps to
troublesome on those before 2011. The cause of belt using it are shown below and
squeak is a combination of incorrect belt tension and are identical to what is
primarily incorrect wheel alignment. If you get these described in your owner’s handbook.
things spot on then there should be no issues. This guide also covers Mat1600’s adjusters
On Youtube you can watch a fellow enthusiast from Thunderbird1600.com. These are far superior in
PB60 set the alignment with a custom made tool and accuracy and functionality than the original ones.
you can watch another hero of mine Moonfleet41 Furthermore if you combine the use of these with the
(Delboy’s Garage) setting wheel alignment using the laser tool I have every confidence you will get rid of
old fashion method (that unfortunately doesn’t easily your belt chirp.
work on our model of bike). But in my humble opinion
the best way to complete this task on our bike is with
the Triumph Wheel Alignment Tool as per the Cleaning and Inspection
Triumph Service Manual. Those that have done it this
way report no problems. Some argue for a slightly What you need before hand
slacker belt tension than what is recommended but it is • Bucket of soap and water
up to you. • Old toothbrush/cloth
Measuring the belt tension accurately is not • Sockets: 8mm
easy without the right tools. You can get a rough • Screw adapter: T5 Hex
indication of the belt tension by depressing it by hand
• Inspection lamp
and looking at how many notches it moves in the
• Custom belt tension tool
lower belt guard inspection window. However, this
method is not accurate and should not be relied upon. • Vernier calipers
The service tool (T3880126) is not available to buy
anymore and wasn’t that great to begin with. You can Steps
by a tool that measures the frequency of the vibrations 1. Lift the bike off the ground so that the wheel can
of the belt when you twang it and from that you can spin freely. Alternatively, clean the belt when you
determine the belt tension. But this kind of equipment also have the wheel off (see Rear Wheel guide). If
is expensive and only worthwhile if you want to not removing the wheel, remove the upper belt
measure lots of different belts. guard using a 8mm socket and a T5 Hex
My suggestion is to modify a standard screwdriver to increase access.
tensioning tool. I was inspired by PB60 on YouTube
(who customized the Triumph tool) to modify my own Belt Teeth
tension tool. My first attempt was using wood but I
could not get it to sit properly. I then decided to go to
my local metal engineering firm and asked them to
make me the piece I wanted. Essentially it is a piece of
scrap metal (5mm wide x 4.6mm long x 0.7mm thick)
with a whole (0.47mm diameter) down the length of it
that is the same diameter as the tensioner tool. On the

2 Thunderbird Storm

2. With a cloth or old toothbrush clean out the dirt
from between each tooth in the belt with soapy
water. Then clean out the groves in the final drive
pulley.

3. Although not a step in and of itself- it is important

to note that you do not want to use any lubrication
on the belt. Let it dry naturally and with proper
tension/alignment it will be as it should be.

4. With the belt clean, use an inspection lamp to look

at all the sections on the belt. If you see any
hairline cracks in the teeth, cracked edges on the
teeth and/or frayed belt edges keep an eye on it. If
you see major cracks in the teeth, missing teeth,
big chucks out of the teeth and/or lodged foreign 2. With the deflector held in place by the screw,
objects in the belt then it needs replacing. You remove the tensioning tool and measure the gap
don’t want your belt snapping when on the road, between the underneath of the belt cradle and the
very dangerous. top of the deflector using vernier calipers.
Alternatively you can slide the optional upper
5. Return the upper belt guard using a 8mm socket rubber ring down to sit on the top of the deflector.
and a T5 Hex screwdriver. Tighten sensibly. When you take the second measurement under
tension later, the gap measured will be the
Job complete distance between the top of the deflector and the
underneath of the rubber ring. But the rubber ring
Belt Tension/Wheel Alignment has a tendency to move out of place if you are not
careful. So in practice I use the solid edges.
What you need before hand
• Custom belt tension tool Distance Measured
• Vernier calipers
• Service tool T3880148
• Spanner: 12mm, 14mm
• Sockets: 12mm, 27mm
• Torque wrench: 110Nm
• Screwdriver: T5 Hex
• Laser Alignment Tool- Optional

Inspecting Belt Tension

1. To use the custom tensioner tool loosen the
holding screw and place the belt cradle on the
tensioner tool against the belt. Slide the deflector
up so that it gently butts against the lower belt
deflector. Then screw in the holding screw.
Belt Cradle
Optional Ring
Deflector
Holding Screw
3. Now the initial measurement has been taken,
move the lower rubber ring on the tensioning tool
down in line with the 10lbf mark. Now loosen the
holding screw again and put the tensioner tool in
place. Push the bottom of the tensioning tool
against the belt until the pressure exerted reaches
the 10lbf mark. The deflector should not be
pushing the lower belt guard out of place. When
sufficient pressure is reached screw in the holding
screw. Then remove the tensioning tool.

10lbf Mark
 Belt & Final Drive 3

4. Take another reading of the gap between the 7. Undo the bolt attaching the exhaust to the frame
bottom of the belt cradle and the top of the using 12mm socket and 12mm spanner.
deflector. The difference between this measure
and the previous will give you then amount of
tension in the belt. When the bike is off the
ground the belt tensions should be between 7.5-
9mm. You can measure the belt tension when it is
on the ground but it is practically more of a pain
moving the bike back and forth. If you do want to
measure it this way then the tension should be
between 5.5-7.0mm. If you don’t have the custom
tool you can still use a standard tension gauge but
inspect the amount of deflection in the belt
through the inspection window. Look for about
2.5-4 notches of movement when off the ground
and 1.5-3 notches when on the ground.

5. If the belt tension needs to be adjusted and you

have long pipes will have to remove the exhaust.
If you have short pipes skips to step 10. Undo the
two clasps holding the exhaust shield to the
exhaust using T5 Hex screwdriver. Then slip it off
8. Wiggle the silencer away from the CAT and place
aside. Put the bolt and rubber grommets back in so
you don’t loose them.
9. Repeat steps 5-8 for the opposite exhaust and
clean all parts.

10. If the belt tension needs to be adjusted you also

have to slacken off the nut on the rear axel using
27mm socket.

11. If the belt is too slack then the adjuster nut has to
be turned clockwise using a 14mm spanner. If the
belt is too tight then turn the adjuster anti-
clockwise. When undoing the adjuster it helps to
give it (or the wheel) a couple of gentle taps with
6. Undo the clamp holding the exhaust to the a rubber mallet so that the adjuster is flush against
catalytic (CAT) converter (or pipe if you have the swing arm.
CAT removed) using 12mm socket.
4 Thunderbird Storm
12. Repeat the process at several points along the belt.
The tightest point on the belt should be in
specification. Thus, parts of the belt can be
somewhat loose provided that the tightest spot is
in specification. Both the belt tension and the
wheel alignment have to be in place before
tightening the spindle nut. One often affects the
other so onto wheel alignment.
Wheel Alignment
13. Slide the service tool T3880148 through the
spindle from the left side of the motorcycle. Screw
the elongated nut of the service tool on the right
hand side of the spindle. If on correctly, the top of
the service tool nut and the other tapered end
should be in line with the measurement mark on
the swing arm.
14. Using vernier calipers, measure the distance from
the mark on the swing arm and the service tool.
On the right side of the bike it’s between the
rectangular top of the tool and the swing arm
marker. On the left side it is
between the round part of the tool
and the marker on the swing arm.
There is a tolerance of 0.3mm! That
means the distance on either side
needs to be almost the same within 0.3mm of each
other. You may end up going back and forth a
number of times but it is crucial this is correct to
stop belt chirp/squeak. If they are not the same use
a 14mm spanner to adjust the wheel alignment
(the locknut and axel nut needs to be loose). Anti-
clockwise will shorten the gap on the left side and
clockwise will lengthen the gap. When shortening
the gap the adjuster and/or wheel may need a
gentle tap with a rubber mallet to make sure it is
flush against the swing arm.
15. With the alignment within range for the first time,
return to the start and repeat the belt tension
inspection/adjustment until both tension and
alignment are in specification. One can affect the
other. So just keep going back and forth until both
are spot on. Getting this right will stop belt from
chirping. When both are in specification use the
14mm spanner to move the locknuts against each
adjuster nut being careful not to move the adjuster
nuts in the process. If you have two very thin 14mm
spanners then you can do the locknut up tightly.
16. Optional: Aligning the wheel using the Triumph
tool can only be accurate if the engine is also
exactly where it should be. If it isn’t then the above
alignment process will only align the belt/wheel
relative to the swing arm and not parallel to the rest
of the bike, such as the drive wheel connected to
 Belt & Final Drive 5

the engine. To ultimately stop belt squeak/chirp you
need to have the two drive wheels in line with one
another. The most accurate way to do this in theory
is with a laser alignment tool. The laser is attached
to the final drive centered on the outer right side of
the belt. If it is aligned properly the laser dot should
beam onto the drive wheel at the engine end. To
accurately see this remove the radiator overflow
cover using 8mm socket. If the dot isn’t on the
drive wheel then, adjust the wheel alignment until it
is. Also make sure the laser is level and beaming
from the middle of the final drive wheel.

17. Optional- I wasn’t 100% convinced with the laser

so I also employed the old fashioned way. That is to
check the distance from the swing arm to the rear
axel is the same on either side. First you remove the
coolant expansion tank and its bracket out of the
way (see procedure in Valve Clearance guide). If
you have a steel rod even better. I used a piece of
strong tape and stuck it to two screw drivers. I
removed. Roll it out so that the screw drivers are
positioned in the middle of the swing arm and rear
spindle. Then keep it at that length, move around to
the other side and check the distance, they should
be the same. Mine were the same when using the
laser so given that the laser is easier than dropping
the expansion tank that is what I will use in future.
At the time of writing the guide my Triumph
Alignment tool was reading out despite the laser
showing that they were lined up. I may have to
update this section once I learn how to align the
swing arm.
6 Thunderbird Storm

18. With both the wheel and belt aligned, tighten the
rear spindle nut using 27mm socket to 110Nm.
When tightening, do so from “6 O’clock to “9
21. Return the heat shields and screw the fasteners in
O’clock” to minimize the chance of the wheel being
moved out of alignment when being placed up to sensibly using T5 Hex screwdriver. No need to
torque because they easily bend out of shape.
tension.
Make sure you get the clamp and heat shield clasp
in a position that they can both co-exist.

22. If removed, return the upper belt guard using an

8mm socket and a T5 Hex screwdriver.

19. Double check both the belt tension and wheel

alignment using the steps above just to make sure
nothing has shifted. I have sometimes found that
after tightening the spindle the belt tension and
alignment can move a little. But if you use
Mat1600’s adjusters (see below) then you won’t
have this problem.

20. Return the silencer to position, it may need

encouragement from a rubber mallet. Return the
bolt using 12mm socket and 12mm spanner and Job Done!
tighten sensibly (28Nm). Tighten the clamp using
12mm socket sensibly (15Nm). Mat1600’s Adjusters

A fantastic individual with more engineering skills

than I has made replacement rear wheel
tension/alignment adjusters. The original adjusters
 Belt & Final Drive 7

were poorly engineered in the sense that; 1) the
wheel alignment moves when you tighten up the
rear nut and with 0.3mm tolerance it is a pain to
get right, 2) you can’t adjust the wheel alignment
accurately when the bike is on the ground and, 3)
the original locknuts are a pain to tighten up unless
you have a skinny spanner. Mat1600’s adjusters
solve all these problems. It won’t assure that your
two drive wheels/cogs are inline but it will make it
much easier to accurately adjust what you need. If
you go on to http://www.tb1600.com and personal
message user Mat1600 and let him know if you
have a 1600, storm, commander or LT and he will
send you the adjusters. They don’t cost much but
contact him for an up to date price and postage. The
following diagram describes all the parts.



3. Remove the rear wheel nut using 27mm socket.

4. Remove the upper belt guard using a 8mm
socket on a T5 Hex.
What you need before hand
• Custom belt tension tool
• Vernier calipers
• Service tool T3880148
• Spanner: 14mm
• Sockets: 8mm, 17mm, 27mm
• Torque wrench: 110Nm
• Screwdriver: T5, T8 Hex
• Laser Alignment Tool- Recommended
• Lock Tight

Steps
1. First raise the back wheel and loosen the rear 5. Lower the bike so that the rear wheel is lightly
spindle lock nut using 27mm socket. If you have resting on the ground. Slide the spindle out and
long pipes you will have to remove the exhaust- remove the adjusters.
see above for instructions.

2. Remove the adjuster locknut and adjuster nut
using 14mm spanner on both sides.

8 Thunderbird Storm


9. Repeat the process and install the captive nut
lock plate, grub screws and captive nut.

6. Put some thread lock onto the grub screw and
using the supplied Allen key screw them into the
captive nut lock plate and wipe off any excess.
10. Grease the rear spindle. Put the adjuster screw,
nylon washer, locknut and left hand spindle
block in place and install the spindle.

7. Now screw the captive nut into the captive nut
lock plate through the hole in the swing arm.

11. Repeat the process on the right side.




8. Now tighten the grub screws, which will
stabilize the captive nut lock plate and captive
nut against the swing arm.

12. Using a 8Hex screw bit adjust the adjusters until
they are on approximately the same dot on the
swing arm, which gives you an initial alignment.
 Belt & Final Drive 9


13. Set the belt tension as described above, and I too
have found the Triumph tension of 7-9mm of
deflection to be too tight. Further more that level
of deflection almost reaches the limits of how far
back the adjusters can go, well it did on my set.
So I set the tension to 9-12mm of deflection.
Because the tension of the belt doesn’t need to
be 100% on the mark you can use the deflector
marks in the lower belt guard to make sure you
are roughly where it should be. 16. Now that the adjusters are installed, in future
you can loosen the locknut and adjust the
14. Now time to set the wheel alignment. In theory alignment when the bike is on the ground. This
you can use the Triumph tool as described above reflects how better engineered the design of
and each side needs to be within 0.3mm. these adjusters are than the originals. Don’t
However after getting it within this tolerance forget to remove the Triumph adjustment tool.
multiple time I still had belt chirp without and
without the adjusters. So I used my belt Job Done
alignment laser. Remove the radiator overfill
cover using an 8mm socket. Set the laser tool up
as described above and it should beam onto the Final Drive Bearings
front cog. If it doesn’t you will get belt chirp. The
two cogs have to be aligned within 0.3mm to At the time of writing this guide, my bearings in the
stop chirp. But does that mean if the two cogs final drive were in good condition. When I need to
are lined up using the laser but the triumph change them I will write out this section. In the
alignment tool indicates that they are not mean time, if you follow my rear wheel guide you
aligned there must be something else out of will gain access to the bearings in the final drive.
alignment. Is there potential movement of the
engine or swing arm relative to one another.
Belt Replacement
There could be. The adjusters make it much
easier to accurately adjust the wheel alignment
At the time of writing this guide, my belt was good
and if you use it with the laser tool you will not
condition. When I need to change it I will write out
get belt chirp. But are the wheels perfectly in
this section.
line, possibly not. Next time I remove the
radiator expansion tank I will check the distance Other Useful Belt Guides
using the old fashioned method- see Delboy’s
Garage on YouTube. But in the mean time, Delboy’s Belt Advice
Mat1600’s adjusters+ the laser tool is my best https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV05vCMqZFM
advice on getting rid of belt chirp. &index=61&list=PLRS52UHF-
MfloqvvJl3IN6aKFlofPmwiX
15. Once the rear wheel is aligned (or the two cogs
at least) then you can put the washer and rear PB60’s Custom Tool Guide
spindle nut back and tighten to 110Nm using https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wMn3FeLBEg&
27mm socket. This is probably my favorite thing t=186s
about the adjusters- the alignment wont shift
when you tighten the rear spindle! That means
whatever you set up will actually stay there!
Finally lightly tighten the locknut using a 17mm
spanner. The locknut isn’t essential but
completes it.