Pit toilet

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Digging the pit for a pit toilet in Cap-Haitien, Haiti.

A pit toilet is a dry toilet system which collects human excrement in a large container and range
from a simple slit trench to more elaborate systems with ventilation. They are more often used in
rural and wilderness areas as well as in much of the developing world. The waste pit, in some
cases, will be large enough that the reduction in mass of the contained waste products by the
ongoing process of decomposition allows the pit to be more or less permanent. In other cases,
when the pit becomes too full, it may be emptied or the hole made be covered with soil and the
associated structure moved or rebuilt over a new pit.
The pit toilet shares some characteristics with a composting toilet, but the latter combines the
waste with sawdust, coconut coir, peat moss or similar to support aerobic processing in a more
controlled manner.

Contents
 1 Types
o 1.1 Advanced designs
o 1.2 Ventilated improved pit latrine (VIP)
o 1.3 Permanent pits
 1.3.1 Dry pits
 2 Hygienic use
 3 Hazards/gas collection
 4 References
 5 Further reading

Types
The slit-trench latrine is the simplest type of pit toilet, consisting of a relatively shallow (3-6
feet/1-2 metres in depth) trench narrow enough to stand with one leg on either side. This type is
used either by squatting, with the users' legs straddling the pit, or by various arrangements for
sitting or leaning against a support structure. Such support may vary from the simplest forms
such as a log, plank, branch or similar arrangement placed at right angles to the long axis of the
pit.

A cathole is a one-time use pit toilet often utilized by campers, hikers and other outdoor
recreationalists. In some former Soviet Union regions, particularly in Asia, pit toilets were called
Stalin's footprints (Russian: следы Сталина), after the characteristic platform — mass-produced
in Soviet times — with a hole and recognisable pits for feet on each side.[1]

Advanced designs
Interior of an outhouse over a pit latrine in Kouřim, Czech Republic.

A vacuum tanker for pit emptying in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

While an "advanced pit toilet" might sound like an oxymoron, in its more complex forms, or
higher capacity forms - commonly associated with outhouses though sometimes used underneath
a house, or as a central collection area for several outhouses or other waste collection
arrangements - the pit will be larger, and covered with a supporting structure. This structure may
be simply a metal plate, or board floor - with a hole over which the user positions themselves
during use. A provision for seating is often placed above a pit toilet, this may be a simple hole, or
several holes, in a board surface at sitting height. In bitter cold Arctic climates, honey buckets
are used inside the home and carried to such covered pits outside.

A more substantial structure may also be built. Commonly known as an outhouse, these small
enclosed buildings provide a roof for shelter, one or more seats with a hole in it, and occasionally
access to water for washing.

Ventilated improved pit latrine (VIP)

The ventilated improved pit latrine, or VIP, is a pit toilet with a black pipe (vent pipe) fitted to
the pit, and a screen (flyscreen) at the top outlet of the pipe. VIP latrines are an improvement to
overcome the disadvantages of simple pit latrines,i.e. fly and mosquito nuisance and unpleasant
odors. The smell is carried upwards by the chimney effect and flies are prevented from leaving
the pit and spreading disease.[2]

Odor and Insect Control Mechanism The principal mechanism of ventilation in VIP latrines is
the action of wind blowing across the top of the vent pipe. The wind creates a strong circulation
of air through the superstructure, down through the squat hole,across the pit and up and out of
the vent pipe. Unpleasant faecal odors from the pit contents are thus sucked up and exhausted out
of vent pipe, leaving the superstructure odor-free. In some cases solar-powered fans are added
giving a constant outwards flow from the vent pipe.

Flies, searching for an egg-laying site are attracted by faecal odors coming from the vent pipe,
but they are prevented from entering by the flyscreen at the outlet of the vent pipe. Some flies
may enter into the pit via the squat hole and lay their eggs there. When new adult flies emerge
they instinctively fly towards light. However, if the latrine is dark inside the only light they can
see is at the top of the vent pipe. Since the vent pipe is provided with a fly screen at the top, flies
will not be able to escape and eventually they will die and fall back into the pit.

To ensure that there is a flow of air through the latrine there must be adequate ventilation of the
superstructure. This is usually achieved by leaving openings above and below the door, or by
constructing a spiral wall without a door.[3]

Permanent pits

A night soil man, known in his country as a frogman, manually removing the waste from a
permanent concrete-lined pit toilet in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.

Some pit toilets, which are used by a great number of people -- such as a public restroom in rural
areas, or in a woodland park or busy lay-by, rest stop or other similarly busy location -- are built
with a concrete lining for permanence. In this type, the pit is periodically emptied, usually by a
pump mounted on a large truck which also carries a tank for storage. The waste is transported by
road to a sewage treatment facility, or to be composted elsewhere. There are numerous licensed
waste hauling companies providing such service in areas where it is needed.

Dry pits

This concrete-lined waste pit is one type of dry pit design. A dry pit does not penetrate the water
table, while a wet pit does. In locations near streams or where undue seepage may occur, such as
on a slope, the dry pit design may be preferred, even with low traffic use.

Hygienic use
Covering the deposit prevents smells and discourages some fly species which might see it as a
place to feed or reproduce. Earth, sand or sawdust (six inches) can be added to simple types pit
toilet after each use. Ashes and lime (one inch) are also effective.

Hazards/gas collection
Due to the possible danger caused by containing potentially explosive methane or other gases
created by the decomposition of human waste, as well as to provide a more pleasant-smelling
outhouse, a ventilation pipe or other arrangement is used to allow the gas to escape. In some
cases, the methane may be collected for later use as fuel. see: Methane recovery (gasification)

References
1. ^ Toivo Laan 2002: Glossary for the first female expedition to Ararat
2. ^ Drains Not Disease - Zambia, Television Trust for the Environment website.
3. ^ Ahmed,M.F. & Rahman,M.M. (2003). Water Supply & Sanitation: Rural and Low
Income Urban Communities, 2nd Edition, ITN-Bangladesh. ISBN 984-31-0936-8.

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Pour-flush latrine
(Redirected from Glossary/Pour-flush latrine)
Categories: Glossary | WHO Lexicon
Terms &
Synonyms
Official WHO Latrine where a small quantity of water is poured in to flush excrete
Definition through a water seal into a pit (WHO 1992).
Other Definitions

Contents
[hide]

 1 Interpretations and Explanations

 2 References
 3 See also
 4 External Resources
 5 Attachments

Interpretations and Explanations

Pour-flush leaching pit latrines overcome the problems of flies, mosquitoes and odour by having
a pan with a water seal (a U-shaped conduit partly filled with water) in the defecation hole.
Excreta deposited in the latrine pan is flushed by pouring 2 to 3 litres of water into it. Water
remains in the U-shaped conduit blocking air flow and odour. The mixture is directed into a pit
and organic wastes are biodegraded (WHO 2003). Sludge has to be regularly emptied from the
pit. The use of two adjoining pits alternately enables the sludge in a full pit to undergo further
decomposition while the other pit is being used, and enables manual sludge emptying after
further sludge decomposition. More water percolates through the soil surrounding the pit, and the
potential for groundwater pollution is higher. A pour flush toilet with a pit is therefore not
suitable when groundwater table is close to the surface (UNEP 2000).

References
WHO (1992) A guide to the development of on-site sanitationUNEP (2000) International Source
Book On Environmentally Sound Technologies for Wastewater and Stormwater
ManagementWHO (2003) Linking technology choice with operation and maintenance in the
context of community water supply and sanitation: A reference document for planners and
project staff

IRC, WHO (2000) Operation and maintenance of rural water supply and sanitation systems: A
training package for managers and plannersWHO (2002) Healthy villages : a guide for
communities and community health workers

Aqua privy
Aqua privy The conventional aquaprivy is essentially a small septic tank located directly below a
squatting plate which has a drop pipe extending below the liquid level in the tank to form a
simple water seal. To prevent odor, fly and mosquito nuisance in the toilet, the water seal has to
be maintained by adding sufficient water per toilet visit to the tank via the drop-pipe to replace
any losses. The excreta are deposited directly into the tank where they are decomposed
anaerobically similar to a septic tank. A housing or shed is built over the tank. A vent pipe with a
fly screen at the top end is attached to the housing. A water-tight tank is desirable to minimize
losses. An effluent (overflow) pipe is installed above the level of the drop-pipe.

Advantages Disadvantages
No danger of clogging by bulky anal cleansing Water seal is often broken particularly during
materials. cleaning.

Low odor and insect problems. Needs small but significant amount of water to
Potential for upgrading. maintain water level.
Minimal risks to health. The tank requires desludging, usually every 2-3
years.
Requires water tight tank, hence more
expensive and needs skills to construct.

Aqua privy

Contents
[hide]

 1 Capacity
 2 Costs
 3 Applying conditions
 4 Aqua Privy Manual
 5 Your text could be here!
 6 External links

[edit] Capacity
  For a family with 7 users - Capacity: 0,6-0,8 m³ - Filling time: about 6 months.

[edit] Costs
 Complete double vault system, freestanding unit US$ 160 (Mexico, 1998).
 Complete double vault system, within the home US$ 35 (China, 2002).
 Operation and maintenance - Negligible.

[edit] Applying conditions

 Vaults and chambers are suitable in areas with a hard subsurface and high ground water
table.
 The system can be applied in rural, as well as in urban areas. However, it should be noted
that, if composted and dehydrated matter cannot be used on site, the need for transport
will increase the operation and maintenance costs.
 Processing mixed excreta is only possible in arid climates.
 As with other dry sanitation options, the health risks related to handling of (pre-) treated
excreta or faeces have to be taken into consideration.

[edit] Aqua Privy Manual

This document lists the specifications that need to be met for a succesful Aqua Privy

Click here to see how you can contribute pictures

Solar Composting Advanced Toilet
The Solar Composting Advanced Toilet is designed to recycle human excrement and
urine into a relatively dry and deodorized compost which can be safely and easily
applied to the immediately surrounding landscape.
The S.C.A.T. is a self-contained freestanding structure using inexpensive convenient
organic materials such as peat moss or sawdust to promote effective composting.
Earthworms provide mixing and aeration, eliminating the need for a rotating drum. A
durable watertight plastic bin in the solar chamber has enough capacity for 4-6
persons in daily use. Easy access to the compost bin simplifies emptying at 6-12 month
intervals, depending on loading.

Portability: Built on a 4'X8' platform and weighing 300 pounds, the completed
S.C.A.T. can be transported by pickup truck, trailer, or barge. Alternatively, the use of
screw fasteners allows prefabrication of panels for simple onsite assembly.

No electric hook-up: Translucent roofing material over the stall provides ample light
during the day. Passive solar heat enhances evaporation to dewater the compost pile.
Ventilation is provided by convection currents through a storm-proof ventilator.

No foul odors: Composting is an aerobic process in which microorganisms convert

organic material into soil. By-products are heat, water vapor and carbon dioxide.
Screened vents exclude insects.

Environmentally safe: There is no leachate to contaminate nearby ground or surface

waters. Pathogens are removed by heat and aging.
Handicap accessible: Construction plans for the optional handicap model include a
self-closing 36" wide door, extra-large stall for a wheelchair, and sturdy grab bars to
assist users with physical limitations.

Low maintenance: Construction materials are durable and easily cleaned. Modular
design simplifies damage repair. Y2K Compliant.

Ordering information
Materials are obtainable from your local building center at a
current (Apr.'99) cost of approximately $1,000 for the handicap
model, $700 for the standard version. Construction time is 80-
100 hours.
A 6-page descriptive brochure with color photos is $5.Detailed
construction plans and S.C.A.T. operating manual are available
by check or money order for $50.
Larry Warnberg
PO Box 43, Nahcotta, WA. 98637
warnberg@pacifier.com
You are visitor:
Since 07/21/99

next
NAHCOTTA OYSTER FARM DEPENDS ON CLEAN WATER. RECYC
Portable toilet
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
This article has multiple issues. Please help improve it or discuss these issues on the talk
page.
An editor has expressed a concern that this article lends undue weight to certain ideas,
incidents, controversies or matters relative to the article subject as a whole. (August 2012)
This biographical article needs additional citations for verification. (August 2012)
This article relies on references to primary sources. (September 2010)
This article may be confusing or unclear to readers. (August 2012)

A line of portable toilets.

Inside view of a portable toilet. Baghdad, Iraq (April 2005).

Portable toilet on the USS Iowa as part of the Suisun Bay Reserve Fleet. Portable toilets can be
cost-effective alternatives to maintaining larger plumbing infrastructure.

Portable toilets, often referred to as Porta Potties (American English), or Porta Loos (UK), are
simple portable enclosures containing a chemical toilet which are typically used as a temporary
toilet for construction sites or large gatherings because of their durability and convenience. Most
portable toilets have black open-front U-shaped toilet seats with a cover. They are often
constructed out of lightweight molded plastic. The modern plastic portable toilet has been
manufactured since the 1960s.

Contents
 1 Size
 2 Variations
 3 Chemicals
 4 Use in outdoor advertising
 5 Advantages
 6 Disadvantages
 7 Locations
 8 PSE
 9 See also
 10 References
 11 External links

Size
Portable toilets are large enough for a single occupant, usually about 90 cm (35 in) square by
210 cm (83 in) high. While the units are typically free standing structures, their stability is
augmented by the weight of the waste tank, which usually contains an empty liquid disinfectant
dispenser and deodorizer. Some include both a seated toilet and a urinal. Most include lockable
doors, ventilation near the top, and a vent pipe for the holding tank. When wind is blowing over
the vent pipe it creates a low pressure area sucking the odor out. Leaving the toilet lid open will
reverse the flow of the venting of the tank.[1]
Dimensions:

 Total Weight: 90 kg - 110 kg

 Total Width : 1166 mm
 Total Depth : 1215 mm
 Total Height : 2316 mm
 Door Height : 1975 mm
 Door Width : 639 mm

Variations

Portable potty on top of a mountain in China

Newer models include toilet paper and, occasionally, antibacterial hand sanitizer dispensers. It
has become common for portable toilets to be paired with an internal hand washing station.
These sink stations provide a foot pump to dispense water to wash one's hands after using the
toilet. Soap and towels may be provided.[2]

Another common pairing are portable toilets on trailers known commonly as a "portable toilet
trailer". These trailers are typically found in 1-2 toilet configurations with a hand wash ability
using either a hand washing station or a plastic barrel full of water. These trailers are often seen
on agricultural fields or at road construction sites. These restrooms are ideal for situations where
the workers (users) are very mobile. However this configuration has proven problematic, most
modern portable toilet waste tank designs have proven inadequate to deal with the common
problem of splash-outs from the waste holding tank while being towed down bumpy roads. Also
when being towed the high winds blow in from the vents creating a hurricane effect inside
ejecting any toilet paper rolls from the portable toilet if it's not secured.

'Luxury' portable toilets also exist.[3] These are typically conventional domestic plumbing
fixtures within a portakabin-like structure.[4] They are typically mounted on large "office-like"
trailers or made from converted shipping containers. They contain every amenity that a public
bathroom would have such as running water, flushing toilet, stalls, urinals, mirrors, lighting, and
even air conditioning and hot water in some cases. However these luxuries come at a price as
these trailers typically cost 40x more than a typical portable toilet to buy or rent. They are
commonly found at weddings, high end events/charities, and movie shoots.
Chemicals
Portable Toilets use a smell reducing chemical (deodorizer) in the holding tank. This chemical is
typically blue so that when it interacts with enough urine & feces it turns green. This green color
is an indication that the chemicals are no longer effective in preventing odors.[citation needed]

In most states a formaldehyde (embalming fluid) based chemical is used to neutralize odors; this
method of deodorizing the portable toilet has proven very effective. The formaldehyde based
chemical interferes with the bacteria in portable toilets, these bacteria release odorous gas when
breaking down waste. A notable exception to the formaldehyde based formula is California who
has banned the use of this chemical in portable toilets, RV's and the like because it interferes
with their sewage plant operations. A much more environmentally friendly enzyme is used to
break down the waste while releasing a fragrance. This enzyme does not prevent the bacteria
from breaking down waste but actually helps break down waste itself. Because it doesn't directly
deal with the cause of foul portable toilet odors its much less effective than the traditional
formaldehyde based solution.

A much older form of portable toilet chemical is Lye. Lye was used during the old "wooden
outhouse days" to prevent odors. After a person is done using the portable toilet they would grab
a bit of lye and sprinkle it into the holding tank.

Use in outdoor advertising

Another recent innovation in the portable toilet arena is their use as a form of outdoor
advertising. Some advertisers wrap portable toilets with vinyl material similar to that commonly
used on cars and buses. The graphic wraps are intended to catch the attention of potential
customers waiting in line to use the toilet.[5]

Advantages
Though more expensive than a standard permanent outdoor latrine, portable toilets have several
significant benefits mostly related to their portability as they are self-contained they can be
placed almost anywhere. They are rented to customers by companies that guarantee their
cleanliness, and so as a rule are drained, cleaned, disinfected, and deodorized on a regular basis.
It's typically cheaper to rent a portable toilet than to hire a janitorial service to clean the
restrooms on a weekly basis.As they are not plumbed, they do not clog. A single portable toilet
can be hauled in the back of a pick-up truck. An average portable toilet is able to hold enough
sewage for 10 people during the course of a 40 hour work week before the hold reaches
unsanitary conditions.

Disadvantages
Because portable toilets are not plumbed they keep the waste inside the bathroom, this can lead
to a sewage smell if the portable toilet is not cleaned properly or is over used. It's also seen as an
eye sore to most communities, some of which prohibit the use of a portable toilet without special
permission from the city or municipality.

Locations

Portable toilets at a public event in Jersey.

They are frequently seen at outdoor work sites, particularly construction sites, farms, ranches,
camp sites and large banks of dozens of portable toilets allow for ready sanitation at large
gatherings such as outdoor music festivals. Several portable toilets arranged in these large banks
are referred to as a 'sitting' of portable toilets.

PSE
In the United Kingdom, the Trade Association representing operators of Portable Sanitation units
is PSE. PSE also has a number of European members and works closely with similar trade
organisations worldwide. PSE has a close working relationship with Government departments
such as the Health and Safety Executive and Department of the Environment to improve stands
of cleanliness and hygiene, and to promote good practice by its members. Unique to the PSE is
its members' award scheme. Presently members are able to qualify for a Gold Award after
completing a stringent set of assessments set by PSE. In the United States, a similar organization
exists called the Portable Sanitation Association International (PSAI).

See also
 Pollee, a portable urinal for females

References
1. ^ Product overview. Satellite-Thal. Retrieved on 2010-09-29.
2. ^ Produktdetails Seifen- und Reinigungsmittel. Satellite-Thal. Retrieved on 2010-09-29.
3. ^ Manufacturing | Shower Trailers | Restroom Trailers | ADA Compliant Restrooms |
Mobile Restrooms. Blacktiemanufacturing.com. Retrieved on 2010-09-29.
4. ^ Beautiful loos to enhance your venue or event. IGLOOS. Retrieved on 2010-09-29.
 5. ^ InHouse – Home. Inhousellc.net. Retrieved on 2010-09-29.

Collection – Vacuum Toilet System

Evac offers vacuum collecting units for all types of vessels, from yachts to cruise liners and
naval installations. Evac vacuum collecting units create a powerful vacuum and are optimised
for each application. The units have been designed to work reliably under heavy duty conditions
and to bring energy saving benefits. They are designed for installation as part of the chain that
makes up the waste water collection and treatment system onboard vessels.

Evac offers a variety of vacuum toilets for different applications. Typical features include a
water-saving flush, elegant design, reliability and low sound level in use. Toilets are available in
porcelain and in robust stainless steel, and the range includes shock tested navy and squatting
toilets. Interface valves are available to connect gravity lines to the vacuum piping system.

Vacuum generation
Evac OnlineMax

The Evac OnlineMax is currently the most powerful and energy efficient vacuum collecting
system on the market. The Max concept was specially designed as an energy efficient way to
meet the continuously increasing demands for better vacuum capacity on large vessels. The
OnlineMax pump offers significant long-term operational savings – the bigger the vessel, the
bigger the financial benefit....

More Details

Evac OnlineVac

The Evac OnlineVac is particularly suitable for vessels with medium-sized passenger and crew
capacity. The OnlineVac macerates the sewage created onboard as well as reliably generating
the vacuum required for the discharge process.

The improved design of the OnlineVac features extra strong bearings, heavy duty mechanical
seals and an electric motor with an IEC flange connection. As...

More Details
Evac OnlineFlex

The OnlineFlex is a robust mechanical pump designed to create and maintain constant vacuum in
a vacuum toilet system without the need for intermediate tanks. The OnlineFlex was specially
designed to increase installation flexibility without compromises.

Benefits of OnlineFlex unit:

 Flexible installation and operation

 Robust “plug and play” design
 Small...

More Details

Evac Vacuum Tank Units

Vacuum tanks are the original technology first used onboard marine vessels.
Vacuum tank systems consist of a vacuum tank (normally 1-6 m3 in capacity), vacuum pumps
and sewage discharge pumps. Unlike the OnlineMax, for example, sewage is collected to the
tank and discharged in batches. As with the OnlineMax, vacuum is created by special vacuum
pumps but the vacuum tank also acts as a...

More Details

Evac Ejector Units

The ejector vacuum collecting units are made using proven, robust technology, which is simple
and reliable and still present a good option for certain applications. They have fewer moving
parts than other solutions, making them extremely low maintenance.
Ejector vacuum collecting units have a flexible design offering a large number of different
possible variations and holding tank...

More Details

Toilets

Evac 910 vacuum toilet

Specially designed for cruise liners, the Evac 910 is the quietest toilet on the market, according
to tests carried out by an independent research centre. The Evac 910 is available in floor and
wall models, and uses the proven Evac pneumatic flush mechanism, with flush memory and
vacuum sensor technology.

The water consumption of the Evac 910 is very low and can be adjusted, as can...

More Details

Evac Classic toilet

The Evac Classic is an innovative new model. It is fully pneumatic with an extremely effective
one-nozzle flush technology, and a flushing mechanism which is integrated into the push button.
It has relatively few simple and reliable moving parts, making it an extremely reliable vacuum
toilet. Maintaining the Evac Classic is easy, time-saving and cost effective.

Operation

The...
More Details

Evac 910 Stainless steel toilets

Featuring an optional shock and vibration proof design, the Evac stainless steel toilet was
originally developed for military use. It is equipped with the proven fully pneumatic Evac 910
discharge valve and mechanism, with flush memory and vacuum sensor technology.

Operation

The toilet is flushed by pressing the push button, which sends an air pulse to the control
mechanism. The...

Septic tank
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
A septic tank before installation

The same tank partially installed in the ground

Septic tank scheme

A septic tank is a key component of the septic
system, a small-scale sewage treatment system
common in areas with no connection to main
sewage pipes provided by local governments or
private corporations. (Other components,
typically mandated and/or restricted by local
governments, optionally include pumps, alarms,
sand filters, and clarified liquid effluent disposal
means such as a septic drain field, ponds, natural
stone fiber filter plants or peat moss beds.) Septic Septic tank and septic drain field
systems are a type of On-Site Sewage Facility
(OSSF). In North America, approximately 25% of the population relies on septic tanks; this can
include suburbs and small towns as well as rural areas (Indianapolis is an example of a large city
where many of the city's neighborhoods are still on separate septic systems).[citation needed] In
Europe, they are in general limited to rural areas only. Since a septic system requires a drainfield
that uses a lot of land area, they are not suitable for densely built cities.

The term "septic" refers to the anaerobic bacterial environment that develops in the tank which
decomposes or mineralizes the waste discharged into the tank. Septic tanks can be coupled with
other onsite wastewater treatment units such as biofilters or aerobic systems involving artificial
forced aeration.[1]

Periodic preventive maintenance is required to remove the irreducible solids that settle and
gradually fill the tank, reducing its efficiency. In most jurisdictions this maintenance is required
by law, yet often not enforced. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, in the United
States it is the home owner's responsibility to maintain their septic system.[2] Those who
disregard the requirement will eventually be faced with extremely costly repairs when solids
escape the tank and destroy the clarified liquid effluent disposal means. A properly maintained
system, on the other hand, can last for decades or possibly even a lifetime.[citation needed]

Contents
 1 Description
 2 Potential problems
 3 Environmental issues
 4 Regulations
 5 See also
 6 References
 7 External links

Description
A septic tank generally consists of a tank (or sometimes more than one tank) of between 4000
and 7500 liters (1,000 and 2,000 gallons) in size connected to an inlet wastewater pipe at one end
and a septic drain field at the other. In general, these pipe connections are made via a T pipe,
which allows liquid entry and exit without disturbing any crust on the surface. Today, the design
of the tank usually incorporates two chambers (each of which is equipped with a manhole cover),
which are separated by means of a dividing wall that has openings located about midway
between the floor and roof of the tank.

Waste water enters the first chamber of the tank, allowing solids to settle and scum to float. The
settled solids are anaerobically digested, reducing the volume of solids. The liquid component
flows through the dividing wall into the second chamber, where further settlement takes place,
with the excess liquid then draining in a relatively clear condition from the outlet into the leach
field, also referred to as a drain field or seepage field, depending upon locality. A percolation test
is required to establish the porosity of the local soil conditions for the drain field design.[3]

The remaining impurities are trapped and eliminated in the soil, with the excess water eliminated
through percolation into the soil (eventually returning to the groundwater), through evaporation,
and by uptake through the root system of plants and eventual transpiration. A piping network,
often laid in a stone-filled trench (see weeping tile), distributes the wastewater throughout the
field with multiple drainage holes in the network. The size of the leach field is proportional to the
volume of wastewater and inversely proportional to the porosity of the drainage field. The entire
septic system can operate by gravity alone or, where topographic considerations require, with
inclusion of a lift pump. Certain septic tank designs include siphons or other methods of
increasing the volume and velocity of outflow to the drainage field. This helps to load all
portions of the drainage pipe more evenly and extends the drainage field life by preventing
premature clogging.

An Imhoff tank is a two-stage septic system where the sludge is digested in a separate tank. This
avoids mixing digested sludge with incoming sewage. Also, some septic tank designs have a
second stage where the effluent from the anaerobic first stage is aerated before it drains into the
seepage field.

Waste that is not decomposed by the anaerobic digestion eventually has to be removed from the
septic tank, or else the septic tank fills up and undecomposed wastewater discharges directly to
the drainage field. Not only is this bad for the environment but, if the sludge overflows the septic
tank into the leach field, it may clog the leach field piping or decrease the soil porosity itself,
requiring expensive repairs.

How often the septic tank has to be emptied depends on the volume of the tank relative to the
input of solids, the amount of indigestible solids, and the ambient temperature (as anaerobic
digestion occurs more efficiently at higher temperatures). The required frequency varies greatly
depending on jurisdiction, usage, and system characteristics. Some health authorities require
tanks to be emptied at prescribed intervals, while others leave it up to the determination of the
inspector. Some systems require pumping every few years or sooner, while others may be able to
go 10–20 years between pumpings. An older system with an undersize tank that is being used by
a large family will require much more frequent pumping than a new system used by only a few
people. Anaerobic decomposition is rapidly restarted when the tank re-fills.
A properly designed and normally operating septic system is odor-free and, besides periodic
inspection and pumping of the septic tank, should last for decades with no maintenance.

A well designed and maintained concrete, fiberglass, or plastic tank should last about 50 years.[4]

Potential problems
 Excessive dumping of cooking oils and grease can cause the inlet drains to block. Oils
and grease are often difficult to degrade and can cause odor problems and difficulties
with the periodic emptying.
 Flushing non-biodegradable items such as cigarette butts and hygiene products such as
sanitary napkins, tampons, and cotton buds/swabs will rapidly fill or clog a septic tank;
these materials should not be disposed of in this way.
 The use of garbage disposals for disposal of waste food can cause a rapid overload of the
system and early failure.[citation needed]
 Certain chemicals may damage the components of a septic tank, especially pesticides,
herbicides, materials with high concentrations of bleach or caustic soda (lye) or any other
inorganic materials such as paints or solvents.
 Other chemicals can destroy septic bacteria itself, most notably silver nitrate even in very
small quantities will kill an entire culture.[5]
 Roots from trees and shrubbery growing above the tank or the drainfield may clog and/or
rupture them.
 Playgrounds and storage buildings may cause damage to a tank and the drainage field. In
addition, covering the drainage field with an impermeable surface, such as a driveway or
parking area, will seriously affect its efficiency and possibly damage the tank and
absorption system.
 The flushing of salted water into the septic system can lead to Sodium Binding in the
drainfield. The clay and fine silt particles bind together and effectively water-proof the
leach field, rendering it ineffective.
 Excessive water entering the system will overload it and cause it to fail. Checking for
plumbing leaks and practicing water conservation will help the system's operation.
 Very high rainfall, rapid snow-melt, and flooding from rivers or the sea can all prevent a
drain field from operating and can cause flow to back up and stop the normal operation of
the tank. High winter water tables can also result in groundwater flowing back into the
septic tank.
 Over time, biofilms develop on the pipes of the drainage field, which can lead to
blockage. Such a failure can be referred to as "biomat failure".
 Septic tanks by themselves are ineffective at removing nitrogen compounds that have
potential to cause algal blooms in receiving waters; this can be remedied by using a
nitrogen-reducing technology,[6] or by simply ensuring that the leach field is properly
sited to prevent direct entry of effluent into bodies of water.

Environmental issues
Some pollutants, especially sulfates, under the anaerobic conditions of septic tanks, are reduced
to hydrogen sulfide, a pungent and toxic gas. Likewise, methane, a potent greenhouse gas, is
another by-product. Nitrates and organic nitrogen compounds are reduced to ammonia. Because
of the anaerobic conditions, fermentation processes take place, which ultimately generate carbon
dioxide and methane.

The fermentation processes cause the contents of a septic tank to be anaerobic with a low redox
potential, which keeps phosphates in a soluble and, thus, mobilized form. Because phosphates
can be the limiting nutrient for plant growth in many ecosystems, the discharge from a septic
tank into the environment can trigger prolific plant growth including algal blooms, which can
also include blooms of potentially toxic cyanobacteria.

Soil capacity to retain phosphorus is large compared with the load through a normal residential
septic tank. An exception occurs when septic drain fields are located in sandy or coarser soils on
property adjoining a water body. Because of limited particle surface area, these soils can become
saturated with phosphates. Phosphates will progress beyond the treatment area, posing a threat of
eutrophication to surface waters.[7]

In areas with high population density, groundwater pollution levels often exceed acceptable
limits. Some small towns are facing the costs of building very expensive centralized wastewater
treatment systems because of this problem, owing to the high cost of extended collection
systems.

To slow development, building moratoriums and limits on the subdivision of property are often
imposed. Ensuring existing septic tanks are functioning properly can also be helpful for a limited
time, but becomes less effective as a primary remediation strategy as population density
increases.

Trees in the vicinity of a concrete septic tank have the potential to penetrate the tank as the
system ages and the concrete begins to develop cracks and small leaks. Tree roots can cause
serious flow problems due to plugging and blockage of drain pipes, but the trees themselves tend
to grow extremely vigorously due to the continuous influx of nutrients into the septic system.

Regulations
At present (May 2012) the Environment Agency in the United Kingdom is inviting property
owners with small scale septic tanks to register them with the organisation such that an
exemption certificate may be granted. However, it is likely that a number of users of such
systems may find that their system falls outside of the tolerances applied in order to claim
exemption and as such a bespoke permit may be required. It is likely that the requirement to
register septic tanks to gain an exemption certificate will be implemented from 1 January 2013.

All package sewage treatment plants must have the EN 12566-3 2005 Certificate to qualify for
an Exemption Certificate. In-tank conversion systems would require a permit from the
environment agency for discharge direct to a watercourse as these systems are not covered by
any of the EN12566 Certifications.
Compost tank

Setting up a 10g dirt tank with 2" compost from the middle of a leaf and stick pile. I have 1
1/2" sand ontop of the compost, didn't add water yet. Wanted to know if thats to much
sand or not? I don't have alot of plants to put in it yet but I'm putting Java Fern (Windelov)
along with another type of Java but not sure of the type that has all kinds of babies on the
leaves and just want to let them do their thing, in my 55g they will probably get sucked
into the canister filter but the 10g will have a sponge filter. Then a couple strands of this
and that that came with the plant package I got off here and see how they do. Hopefully
get down to lake Erie and see what kind of plants I can find. If I can net some minnows or
baby fish while I'm at the lake they will go in it once it is cycled. Any suggestions, tips etc.
would be helpful. Thanks Mark

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 05-05-2012, 03:10 AM #2

DogFish

Planted Tank Guru

Your tank will be much like my Toxic Ten tank. 1" to 1"1/2" sand cap should
work well.

I would strongly suggest using established filter media from a current tank,
initially plant as heavily as you can and include fast growing plant to suck
up excessive nutrients like hornwort, wear lettuce, duckweed. The floaters
can be eliminated after you get established.

(View User Tanks) Good luck, I'll be looking forward to a journal thread on this one. I really
appreciate people that experiment a push the envelope. Projects like yours
PTrader: (32/100%) help the hobby evolve.

Join Date: Jul 2011 __________________

Location: ChicagoLand ToxicTen/DogFish's 40/Aquaponics for Vegans

Posts: 4,754

05-05-2012, 12:40 PM #3

speerwashere

Planted Member

Ya I've been following your toxic ten tank, sorta what gave me the idea to
do the compost tank. The compost I'm using I keep night crawlers in for a
fall and winter acouple years ago. I do have plenty of hornwort to put in
the tank but with that I'll have to figure out what plants I have that will
grow low light to put under it or just weigh it down along the back of the
tank. I'll have a 18w T8 I think 6500k bulb for light. Just got it 2 months ago
and already forgot the k temp LOL. Probably do DIY CO2 too.
(View User Tanks) I pulled 1/2 of sand out lastnight so gasses won't build up to bad and will
pull a filter out of a hob to run in a hob for a week or so to help get the
PTrader: (3/100%) tank and sponge fitler established. I didn't even think about cycling with a
Join Date: Feb 2012 old filter beings it's going to be plants only for awhile, Thanks. I'll post
some pics when I get some plants in it but it'll be a while, need to smoke up
Location: Conneaut, Ohio a wild turkey along with other alot of other exterior work today

Posts: 272 __________________

“A wise man can learn more from a foolish question than a fool can learn
from a wise answer.”

―A Bruce Lee saying

05-05-2012, 02:52 PM #4

DogFish

Planted Tank Guru

i'd suggest just float the hornwort while your main plants get established.
That will help prevent an Algae invasion initially.

What I do is as the hornwort grows cut a long section of new growth off
and discard some of the old growth. Some people say Hornwort has an
Allelopathy effect on some algaes, if that's true I would thing cutting would
speed that up. Also cutting stimulated new growth.

(View User Tanks) I've noticed at a point the insane Hornwort grow will level off, that's when I
strait removing it from the tank. I'm sure it's related to the cycle, I don't
PTrader: (32/100%) own test kits.

Join Date: Jul 2011

I use stuff like nylon cord or para cord and run it across the top of the tank
Location: ChicagoLand in front of my HOB and simply wrap the hornwort over it. It grows well in
the stream and doesn't drop it's leaves. In my 20L Q-Tank tank I have the
Posts: 4,754 submersible heater power cord running along the surface and the
hornwort is wrapped over it. Again this can all be temporary fix.
 Congrats on your Turkey! Bow or Shotgun?

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05-05-2012, 03:25 PM #5

speerwashere

Planted Member

Thanks Shotgun 9" beard about 18 lbs, 15 yard shot. Thank for the info

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05-05-2012,
#6
04:08 PM

speerwashere

Planted
Member
Planted some plants. No Hornwort yet though
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05-05-2012,
#7
05:21 PM

Diana

Planted Tank
Guru Monitor the ammonia. As the compost settles into life under water there may be quite
a spike. This is great for getting a fishless cycle started, but do not add any fish until the
substrate has quit releasing ammonia. If there is little to no ammonia, then I would add
(View User some to feed the bacteria until the colony is established. A fishless cycle takes about 3
Tanks) weeks if you have no source of bacteria to seed the filter. It goes faster if you can share
some media from an established tank. The compost will probably have a fair amount of
PTrader: these bacteria, too. They are not exclusively under water species.
(0/0%)

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2010

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05-05-2012,
#8
05:32 PM

speerwashere

Planted
Member
I put an established filter on it after I filled it with water from my 55g (had to do water
change today anyways LOL) Going to take daily test readings to see how it progresses.
No no fish for a while. WOW look at the babies on the Java leaves. Not the best pic but
you get the idea.

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05-05-2012,
#9
05:39 PM

Diana

Planted Tank
Guru
If the substrate does not produce ammonia, add some to keep the bacteria alive.
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05-06-2012, 12:24 PM #10

speerwashere

Planted Member

Today I have 0.25 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 80+ nitrates and pH 8.0 where
yesterday I had 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 10 nitrates and 7.2 pH but the water
came out of my 55g with CO2 so ph would have been off. But cycle looks to
be starting.

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 05-06-2012, 12:28 PM #11

speerwashere

Planted Member

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diana

If the substrate does not produce ammonia, add some to keep the
bacteria alive.

Will do, usually I drop a sliver of raw fish in the tank and let it rot but with
(View User Tanks)
the compost I shouldn't have to. A while back I put some in a glass with
PTrader: (3/100%) some water and got ammonia, nitrites and nitrates within a couple days.

Join Date: Feb 2012 __________________

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Posts: 272
―A Bruce Lee saying

05-07-2012, 02:18 AM #12

Diana

Planted Tank Guru

Is it green compost? Can you still tell what the materials were? If so, then
they will provide some ammonia, and apparently have, since the bacteria
(View User Tanks) that came with the filter appear to have turned it all (well almost all) into
PTrader: (0/0%) nitrate.
If it is so well composted it is practically dust, then it will not be
Join Date: Jan 2010 decomposing enough to keep the bacteria alive, and the nitrate may have
come from the compost itself. There are nitrifying bacteria living in the
Location: Contra Costa CA
compost.
Posts: 4,778
Keep on adding ammonia, it looks like they are almost out of food (.25ppm
 ammonia is only an hours' worth of food to a good colony of bacteria)

05-07-2012, 02:57 AM #13

speerwashere

Planted Member

The ammonia is just starting to build up. I think the nitrates came out of
the filter itself, I pulled it out of my brothers filter and he don't do water
changes, he just tops his tank off when needed. You can see some leaf
paticals after I sifted the bigger stuff out of it (Sticks and stones), it looks
like good top soil after sifting it. Will do some ammonia if #'s aren't up in
the morning

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PTrader: (3/100%)
from a wise answer.”
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05-07-2012, 01:53 PM #14

speerwashere

Planted Member

Todays reading Ammonia .50, nitrites 0, nitrates 160+, ph 8.1+, kh 4 and gh

13. I think I need to pull the old filter and load the tank with hornwort to
lower nitartes, darkest red I've ever seen a nitrate test.

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(View User Tanks) from a wise answer.”

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05-07-2012, 02:29 PM #15

DogFish

Planted Tank Guru

Quote:

Originally Posted by speerwashere

Todays reading Ammonia .50, nitrites 0, nitrates 160+, ph 8.1+, kh 4 and

gh 13. I think I need to pull the old filter and load the tank with hornwort
to lower nitartes, darkest red I've ever seen a nitrate test.

Good idea
(View User Tanks)

PTrader: (32/100%) Text book/googled theory advice is nice for conversation. I'll take real word
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