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 SPEED TWIN
T I G E R 100
THUNDERBIRD
T I G E R IIO
T R O P H Y
3T D E L U X E
MODELS

1945-1955

TRIUMPH E N G I N E E R I N G CO LTD
MERIDEN WORKS . ALLESLEY . COVENTRY EHGlAHD
TELEPHONE MERIDEN 331 TELEGRAMS "TRUSTY COYEHTRY"

Publicarion Parr N o . 99-0836 Pvblirhcd April, 1 Y 6 i

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 a practical basis and n o attempt has been made t o introduce the theoretical side.

Although t h e book is comprehensive i n its instruction regarding major overhaul:.

we strongly advise t h e uninitiated t o entrust such w o r k as the repair o f engines,
spring wheel, telescopic forks and-gearboxes, t o a recognised Triumph Dealer w h o
w i l l have the necessary facil~tiesand special workshop toGls available. Remember I
that the purchase o f special tools can be very expensive when only required f o r 1
limited use.

1
Each section of t h e book i s headed by a general description. It is then followed by
a complete account.of the dismantling, inspection and re-assembly o f units and final
l
1 assembly. This has been compiled i n the most simple form t o obviate any difficulties
o n the part of the operator, who may be a newcomer t o motorcycling o r n o t fully
conversant w i t h repair procedure. Each chapter deals w i t h a specific operation
iI (i.e. Dismantling the Engine) which is then broken down i n t o sub-paragraphs. The
I j sequence i n which they are broken down i s the correct dismantling and assembly
procedure. To avoid confusing the operator during this procedure, the sub-
I assemblies (i.e. Cylinder Head o r Crankshaft Assembly) are dealt w i t h as separate
I units under the heading "Dismantling. Preparation and Assembly of Units".

1 The book i s well illustrated w i t h exploded and assembled illustrations of the main
units, which w i l l give the operator a comprehensive view o f rhe internal parts before
commencing an operation and w i l l also a s s i s t during assembly.
I
Finally, remember that if the essential adiustments are neglected and only casual

1
i
attention is paid t o the lubrication and periodical maintenance, reliability will be
affected and i n time t h e servicing costs w i l l be very high.

A supplement i s included a t the back o f this W o r k s h o p Manual and should always be

referred t o before any operations are carried o u t on the machine.

1
I f additional information i s required, please consult a T r i u m p h Distributor o r
Dealer who w i l l always be pleased t o a s s i s t . Should any difficulty then arise, write
I t o the Triumph Service Department quoting the model and full engine number.
i The latter is stamped on the left hand crankcase iust below the cylinder base flange
I as shown i n the example beiow.

EXAMPLE - bT-93264

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 SERVICE ARRANGEMENTS

CORRESPONDENCE

Technical Advice, Guarantee C l a i m s a n d Repairs

Communications dealing w i t h any of these subjects should be addressed t o the
SERVICE M A N A G E R .

Replacement Parts
O r d e r s for replacement parts should be addrtssed t o the SPARES M A N A G E R .

In all c o m m u n i c a t i o n s t h e full e n g i n e n u m b e r c o m p l e t e w i t h a l l
prefix l e t t e r s a n d figures s h o u l d b e stated. T h i s n u m b e r w i l l b e
found o n t h e L.H. s i d e o f t h e crankcase j u s t b e l o w t h e c y l i n d e r flange.
-
ORDERS

Orders should always be sent t o us i n the form of a l i s t and not i n letter form. Owners
are strongly advised to purchase a Spare Parts List so that the correct part numbers
can be quoted. These lists contain numerous exploded drawings and cross references
which make it very easy t o recognise the various parts and are also o f great assistance
i n servicing t h e model. The specimen order which i s printed i n the Spare Pans List
should be used as a guide.

TECHNICAL ADVICE
I
Owners w i l l appreciate h o w very difficult it is t o diagnose trouble by correspondence
and this i s made impossible i n many cases because the information sent t o us i s so
scanty. Every possible point which may have some bearing on the matter should be
stated so that w e can send a useful and detailed reply.

REPAIRS

Before a motorcycle i s sent t o o u r W o r k s an appointment must be made. This can I

be done by l e t t e r or telephone. W h e n an owner wishes t o return his machine for
guarantee repairs, h e should first consult his dealer as we do not normally accept
machines i n o u r Repair Shop until the Dealer has inspected them. Frequently the
Dealer can overcome t h e trouble w i t h o u t the delay and expense o f sending the
m ~ c h i n et o t h e Works. This avoids tho machine being o u t of use f o r some days
when it could be o n t h e road. W h e r e pans such as cylinders, petrol tanks, etc.,
are forwarded f o r repair, they should be packed securely so as t o avoid damage i n
transit. The owner's name and address should be enclosed together w i t h full
instructions. In t h e case o f complete motorcycles, a label showing the owner's
I
name and address should always be attached and all accessories such as tools, inflator,
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handlebar m i r r o r s and other parts removed. !

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 is guaranteed by the manufacturers and not by ourselves. Any repairs o r clai
should be sent t o the actual maker, o r one of their accredited agents who will alw
j give owners every possible assistance. The following are the addresses o f t
various manufacturers.

I
Carburetters ...... ... .... Amal Ltd..
Holdford Road. Witton,
i
-,
Birmingham, 6.

S.U. Carburetter Co. Ltd.,

Wood Lane. Erdington,
Birmingham. 24.

Chains ... ... ... ... ... Renold Chains Ltd.,

Wythenshawe, Manchester.

Electrical Equipment ... ... J. Lucas Ltd.,

Great Hampton Street,
Birmingham. 18.

R e a r Suspension ... ... ... Girling Ltd..

King's Road. Tyseley,
Birmingham. 11.

S p a r k i n g Plugs ... ... ... Champion Sparking Plugs Co. Ltd.,

Feltham, ~iddlesex.

K.L.G. Sparking Plugs Ltd..

Cricklewood Works,
London, N.W.2.

Lodge Plugs Ltd.,

Rugby.
Warwickshir~.

Speedometers ...... ... ... Smith's Motor Accessories Ltd..

Cricklewood Works,
London. N.W.2.

Tyres ... ... ... ... ... Dunlop Rubber Company Ltd.,
Fort Dunlop,
Birmingham, 24.

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Technical Data 1

SPEED TWIN (5T) T E C H N I C A L D A T A

ENGINE
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... O.H.V. T w i n
B.H.P. and R.P.M. ... ... ... ... ... ... 27 a t 6.300
Bore ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2.48 ins. (63 mm.)
Stroke . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.15 ins. (80 mm.)
Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 30.5 cu. in. (498 c.c.)
Compression Ratio ... ... ... ... ... ... 7:l
Valve Clearance (Cold) ... ... ... ... ... 0.010 in. (0.26 mm.)
Valve Timing:-(with ,020 in. Tappet clearance for checking)
lnlet Valve opens B.T.C. ... ... ... ...
Inlet Valve closes A.B.C. .,. ... ... ...
Exhaust Valve opens B.B.C. .,. ... ... ...
Exhaust Valve closes A.T.C. ... ... ... ...
IGNITION
Distributor Contact Point Gap ... ... 0.014"-0,016"
(0.36-0.40 rnrn.)
Sparking Plugs (Champion) . . . . . . ... L l 0s
Dis:ributor Range ... ... ... ... lsO
Sparking Plug Gap ... ... ... ... 0.020" (0.50 mm.)
Ignition Timing (Fully Retarded):-
Crankshaft position ... ... ... 7' B.T.C.
Piston position .., ,,. ... ... 4>'' (0.8 rnm.) B.T.C.
CARBURETTER
Type ... ... Arnal Monobloc
Main Jet ... 200
Needle J e t ... .I065
Needle Position 3
T h r o t t l e Valve 376/3f
Pilot Jet ... 30

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CHAIN
Primary-Front-Pitch . . .... ... ... ... ... 4":. .335" :. ,305''
Links ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 70 Solo 69 Sidecar
Secondary-Rear Pitch ... ... ... ... ... it',. .4,00" ... !"
Links ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 100

CAPACITIES
Fuel Tank ... ... ... 4 galls. (18 litres)
O i l Tank ... ... ... 6 pints (3.4 litres)
Gearbox ... ... ... 1 pint (.6 litres)
Primary Chaincase ... ... { pint (.2 litres)
T Y R E SIZES
Front . . . . . . ... .,. 3.25 19
:- in.
Rear ... ... ... ... 3.50 1. 1 9 in.
SUSPENSION
Front ... ... ... ... Telescopic
Rear ... ... ... ... Swinging Fork

BRAKES
Type ... ... ... ... Internal expanding
Front and Rear Diameter ... 7 ins. (17.78 cm.)

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
Seat Height ... ... ... 30.5 ins. (77.5 cm.)
Wheel Base ... ... ... 55.75 ins. (141.6 cm.)
Length . . . . . . ... ... 85.5.ins. (217 cm.)
Width . . . . . . ... ... 28.5 ins. (72 cm.)
Ground Clearance ... ... 5 ins. (12.7 cm.)

WEIGHT
Unladen ... ... ... 380 lbs. (173 kilos)

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i c r ~ f i ~ c oData
l

T H U N D E R B I R D (6T) T E C H N I C A L DATA

ENGINE
Type .. ... ... ... ... . .... ... O.H.V. T w i n
0 . 5 P. a t R.P.M. ... ... ... ... ... ... 34 a t 6300
Bo-c ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. 2.79 ins. (71 rnrn.)
Stroke . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.13 ins. (82 rnrn.)
Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ... . 40 cu. in. (649 c.c.)
Compression Ratio ... ... ... ... ... .,. 7:1
Valve Clearance (Cold) ... ... ... ... ... 0.010 in. (0.26 rnm.)
Valve Timing:-(with ,020 in. Tappet clearance for checking)
Inlet Valve opens B.T.C. ... ... ... ... 26f
Inlet Valve closes A.B.C. ... ... ... ... 69f0
Exhaust Valve opens B.B.C. ... ... ... ... 61
Exhaust Valve closes A.T.C. ... ... ... ., . 35i0

IGNITION
Distributor Contact Point Gap ... ... ... ... 0.01 4"-0.016"
(0.36-0.40 rnrn.)
Distributor Range ... ... ... ... ... ... 15"
Sparking Plugs ... ... ... ... ... ... Champion L10S
Sparking Plug Gap ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.020" (0.50 rnm.)
Ignition Timing (Fully Retarded):
Crankshalt position ... ... ... ... ... 6' B.T.C.
Piston position ... ... ... ... ... .. 4" (0.8 mrn.) B.T.C.

CARBURETTER
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... S.U. M.C.2
Needle . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... M .9

TRANSMISSION
Gearbox-Type ... ... ... ... ... ... Positive selection
(Foot operated)
8

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Gear Ratios ... Solo Sidecar

1st-Bottom ..

SPROCKETS

Clutch . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 43 teeth 43 teeth
Rear W h e e l ... ... ... ... ... ... . 46 teeth 46 teeth

CHAIN
Primary-Front-Pitch . . .... ... ... ... . f " / .335" ..:
,305''
Links ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 70
Secondary-Rear-Pitch ... ... ... ... . .. g- / ,400'' .: +"
Links ...... ... ... ... ... . 101 Solo 100 Sidecar

CAPACITIES
Fuel Tank ... ... ... ... ... ... . 4 galls. (18 litres)
Oil Tank ... ... ... ... ... ... . 6 pints (3.4 litres)
Gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... . 1 pint (.6 litres)
Primary Chaincase ... ... ... ... ... . ) pint (.2 licres)

TYRE SIZE
Front . . . . .. ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.25 . 19 in.
Rear ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.50 r 19 in.

SUSPENSION
Front ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Telescopic
Rear ... ... ... ... ... ... ... - ... Swinging Fork

BRAKES
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . Internal Expanding
Front and Rear Diameter ... ... ... ... . 7 ins. (17.78 cm.)

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
Seat Height ... ... ... ... ... ., . . 30.5 ins. (77.5 cm.)
Wheel Base ... ... .,. ... ... ... . 55.75 ins. (141.6 cm.)
Length . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... . 85.5 ins. (217 cm.)
Width . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... . 28.5 ins. (72 cm.)
Ground Clearance ... ... ... ... ... . 5 ins. (12.7 cm.)

WEIGHT
Unladen ... ... ... ... ... ... . 385 lbs. (175 kilos)

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Technical Data
I

T R O P H Y (TR5) T E C H N I C A L D A T A
ENGINE
Type ... ... ... . . ... ... ... O.H.V. Twin
B.H.P. a t R.P.M. ... ... ... ... ... 33 a t 6500
Bore ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 2.48 ins. (63 rnrn.)
Stroke . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.15 ins. (80 rnrn.)
Capacity ... ... . . ... ... ... 30.5 cu. in. (498 c.c.)
Cornererrion Ratio .... ... ... ... ... ... 8:1
Inlet
Valve Clearance (Cold): Exhaust
... ... ... ... ,002 in. (.05 rnrn.)
... ... ... ... ,004 in. (.I0 rnrn.)
Valve Timing:-(with .020 in. Tappet clearance l o r checking)
lnler Valve opens B.T.C. ... ... ... ... 27"
lnlec Valve closes A,B.C. ... ... ... ... 48"
Exhaust Valve opens B.B.C. ... ... ... ... 48O
Exhaust Valve closes A.T.C. ... ... ... ... 27"
IGNITION
Magneto Contact Point Gap ... ... ... ... ,012" (.3 rnm.)
Sparking Plugs (Champion) . . .... ... ... ... NAlO
Sparking Plug Gap ... ... ... ... ... ... ,015"-.018"(.4rnm.-.5rnm.)
Timing (Fully Advanced):-
Crankshaft position ... .,. ... .. , . . 41 " B.T.C.
Piston position . . . . . . ... ... ... . . I: " (12 rnrn.) B.T.C.
CARBURETTER
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Arnd M o n o b l ~ ~ c
Main J e t ... ... ... ... ,.. ... ... 220
Needle J e t ... ... ... .., ... ... ... 1065
Needle Position ... ... ... , .. ... .. 3
Throttle Valve ... ... ... ... ... ... 376'31
Pilot l e t ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 25
TRANSMISSION
Gearbox-Type ... ... ... ... ... ... Positivc selection
(Foot operated)

'lo

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CHAIN
Primary-Front-Pitch ... ...
Links ...... ...
Secondary-Rear-Pitch ...
Links ... ... ...
CAPACITIES
Fuel Tank .... ... ... 3 galls. (13.68 litres)
O i l Tank ... ... ... 6 pints (3.4 litres)
Gearbox ... ... ... 1 pint (.6 litres)
Primary Chaincase ... ... f pint (.2 litres)

TYRE SIZE
Front :.. ... ... ... 3.00 x 20 in.
Rear ... ... ... ... 4.00 x 18 in.

SUSPENSION
Front ... ... ... ... Telescopic
Rear ... ... ... ... Swinging Fork

BRAKES
Type ... ... ... ... Internal Expanding
Front and Rear Diameter ... 7 ins. (17.78 cm.)

OVERALL DIMENSIONS
Seat Height ... .
... ... 30.5 ins. (77.5 cm.)
Wheel Base ... ... ... 55.75 ins. (141.6 cm.)
Length ...... ... 85.5 ins. (217 cm.)
Width ... ... ... ... 28.5 ins. (72 cm.)
Ground Clearance ... ... 5.5 ins. (14 cm.)

WEIGHT
Unladen ... ... ... 365 lbs. (165 kilos)

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 T I G E R 100 (TIM)) T E C H N I C A L DATA
ENGINE
Type ... ... ...
... ... ...
... ... O.H.V. T w i n
B.H.P. at R.P.M. ...
... ... ... ...
... 32 at 6500
Bore ... ... ...
... ...
... ...
... 2.48 ins. (63 rnrn.)
Stroke . . . . . . ...
... ... ... ...
... 3.15 ins. (80 rnrn.)
Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ...
... 30.5 cu. in. (498 c.c.)
Compression Ratio . . . . . . ... ... ... ... 8:l
Valve Clearance (Cold) ... ... ... ... ... .010 in. (0.26 rnrn.)
Valve Timing:-(with ,020 in. Tappet clearance for checking)
Inlet Valve opens B.T.C. ... ... ...
... 26f
Inlet Valve closes A.B.C. ... ... ... ... 69f0
Exhaust Valve opens B.B.C. ... ... ...
... 61f0
Exhaust Valve closes A.T.C. ... ... ... ... 35f0
IGNITION
Magneto Contact Point Gap ... ... ... ... .012 in. (.3 rnrn.)
Sparking Plugs (Champion) ... ... ... ... ... NA10
Sparking Plug Gap ... ... ... ... ... .....015"-.018" (.4rnrn.-.5rnrn.)
Timing (Fully Advanced):-
Crankshaft position ... ... ... ... ... 37O B.T.C.
Piston position . . . . . . ... ... ... ... p (9.5 rnrn.) B.T.C.
CARBURETTER
Type ... .. ... ... ... ... ... ... Arnal Monobloc
Main Jet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 220
Needle J e t ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .lo65
Needle Position ... ... ... ... ... ... 3
T h r o t t l e Valve ... ... ... ... ... ... 376/3f
Pilot kt ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 25
TRANSMISSION
Gearbox-Type ... ... ... ... .... ... Positive selection
(Foot operated)

12

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Gear Ratios:- 5010 Sidec

3rd-Third
2nd-Second ...
1st-Bottom ...
CLUTCH

SPROCKETS Solo Sidecar

Engine ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 22 teeth 1 9 teeth
Gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 1 8 teeth 18 teeth
Clutch ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 43 teeth 43 teeth
Rear W h e e l ... ... 46 teeth 46 teeth

CHAIN
Primary-Front-Pitch ... +" x ,335" x .305"
Links ... ... 70 Solo 69 Sidecar
Secondary-Rear-Pitch H"x.Wx*"
Links ... ... 100

CAPACITIES
Fuel Tank ... ... 4 galls. (18 litres)
O i l Tank ... ... 6 pints (3.4 litres)
Gearbox ... ... 1 pint (.6 litres)
Primary Chaincaze ... + pint (.2 litres)

TYRE SIZES
Front ... ... ... 3.25 x 19 in.
Rear ... ... ... 3.50 x 19 in.

SUSPENSION
Front ... ... ... Telescopic
Rear ...
... ... Swinging Fork

BRAKES
Type ... ... ... Internal Expanding
Front Diameter ... 8 ins. (20.32 cm.)
Rear Diameter ... 7 ins. (17.78 cm.)

OVERALL D I M E N S I O N S
Seat Height ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 30.5 ins. (77.5 cm.)
W h e e l Base ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 55.75 ins. (141.6 cm.)
Length ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 85.5 ins. (217 cm.)
Width ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 28.5 ins. (72 cm.)
G r o u n d Clearance ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 ins. (12.7 cm.)

WEIGHT
Unladen ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 375 ibs. (170 kilos)

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Technical Data

TIGER I10 (T110) T E C H N I ~ LDATA

ENGINE
Type ... ... ... ... ....,... ... ... O.H.V. Twin
B.H.P. at R.P.M. ... G..._ ... ... ... ... 42 a t 6500
Bore ... ... . . . . . . .. ... ... ... ... 2.79 ins. (71 mm.)
Stroke . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.23 ins. (82 mm.)
Capacity ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 40 cu. in. (649 c.c.)
Compression Ratio ... ... ... ... ... ... 8.5 :1
Valve Clearance (Cold):-
lnlet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.002 in. (.05 mm.)
Exhaust . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... 0.004 in. (.lo mm.)
Valve Timing:-(with ,020 in. Tappet clearance for checking)
lnlet Valve opens B.T.C. ... ... ... ...
lnlet Valve closes A.B.C. ... ... ... ...
Exhaust Valve opens B.B.C. ... ... ... ...
Exhaust Valve closes A.T.C. ... ... ... ...
IGNITION
Magneto Contact Point Gap ... ... ... ... .012 in. (.3 mrn.)
Sparking Plugs (Champion) ... ... ... ... ... L11S
Sparking Plug Gap ... ... ... ... ... ... ,015"-.018"(.4 mn1.-.S mm.)
Timing (Fully Advanced):-
Crankshaft position ... ... ... ... ... 35' B.T.C.
Piston position . . . . . . ... ... ... ... i+"(9.2 rnm.) B.T.C.
CARBURETTER
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Amal Monobloc
Main Jet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 250*
Needle Jet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .I065
Needle Position ... ... ... ... ... ... 3
Throttle Valve ... ... ... ... ... ... 37613f
Pilot Jet ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 25
* For maximum performance detach air cleaner rubber
hose and fit 270 Main Jet and LA11 Plugs.

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I! I TRANSMISSION
Gearbox-Type ... Positive selectto
I
Speeds ... ... ...
Gear Ratios:-
4th-Top ...
I
3rd-Third ... ... ... ... ... ...

CLUTCH
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Cork in O i l

SPROCKETS Solo Sidecar

Engine ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 24 teeth 21 teeth
Gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 18 teeth 18 teeth
Clutch ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . 43 teeth 43 teeth
Rear Wheel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 46 teeth 46 teeth

CHAIN
Primary-Front-Pitch ... ... ... ... ... ... +" x .335" x .305"
Links ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 70
Secondary-Rear-Pitch ... ... ... ... ... +" x .go"x #"
Links ... ... ... ... ... ... ... I01 solo 100 sidecar
CAPACITIES
Fuel Tank ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4 galls. (18 litres)
O i l Tank ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6 pints (3.4 litres)
Gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 1 pint (.6 litres)
Primary Chaincase ... ... ... ... ... ... pint (.2 litres)
T Y R E SIZES
Front . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.25 x 19 in.
Rear ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 3.50 x 19 in.
SUSPENSION
Front ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Telescopic
Rear ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Swinging Fork
BRAKES
Type ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... Internal Expanding
Front Diameter ... ... ... ... ... ... 8 ins. (20.32 cm.)
Rear Diameter ... ... ... ... ... ... 7 ins. (17.78 cm.)
OVERALL DIMENSIONS
Seat Height ... ...
... ... ... ... ... 30.5 ins. (77.5 cm.)
Wheel B x e ...
... ... ... ... ... ... 55.75 ins. (141.6cm.)
Length ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 85.5 ins. (217 em.)
W i d t h ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 28.5 ins. (73 cm.)
Ground Clearance ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 ins. (12.7 cm.)
WEIGHT
Unladen ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 395 lbs. (179 kilos)

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 SPEEDOMETER I

LEFT HAHD WBGHT HAND

FIG. 1. C O N T R O L L A Y O U T

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 As the layout i s n o t identical
the model type after the,caption.
I
c l u t c h Lever. O n t h e left portion of h;e handlebar. T h e clutch lever should n o t
i be operated when t h e machine i s i n motion except t o change gear and when bringing
I the machine t o a halt.

I
I F r o n t B r a k e L e v e r . O n t h a right portion of the handlebar. Always apply gentle
I pressure t o t h e lever and use i n conjunction w i t h t h e rear brake.

I
I T h r o t t l e C o n t r o l . This i s a twistgrip operated by t h e right hand. Twist the grip
towards you to open and away from you t o close.

M a g n e t o C o n t r o l L e v e r (TR5, T I 0 0 & TIIO). O n t h e left hand portion o f the

iI handlebar. Close t h e lever (anti-clockwise) t o advance the magneto spark and open
(clockwise) t o retard.
I
i C a r b u r e t t e r Air C o n t r o l L e v e r (TR5). O n t h e r i g h t hand p o r t i o n o f t h e
i
handlebar. Pull (clockwise) t o open air valve.
!

II H o r n Button. Fitted t o the left portion o f t h e handlebar. Push t o operate.

/
i

I
H e a d l a m p D i p p e r S w i t c h . Fitted t o the right portion o f the handiebar. Depress
o r raise t h e switch lever t o operate.

I g n i t i o n C u t - O u t B u t t o n (TRS).
Depress t o stop engine running.
Fitted t o t h e left p o r t i o n of the handlebar.
I
I
I

The Trophy (TRS) model is fitted w i t h a detachable headlamp i n lieu o f the nacelle
type t o enable quick removal f o r sporting events.
i
I
S p e e d o m e t e r . Registers speed, t r i p and total mileage. W h e r e a speedometer
and revolution counter combined i s fitted, the central figures indicate i n hundreds
the engine revolutions i n Znd, 3rd and t o p gears, Illumination of the speedometer
for night riding is controlled by the main lighting switch.

I i S p e e d o m e t e r (TRS). This is mounted o n the fork t o p lug and i t s operation i s as

I that listed above.
I
L i g h t i n g S w i t c h ( T i 0 0 & TlfO). T u r n the lever t o operate. Switch positions:- 1
OFF ... ... ... A L L LIGHTS OFF
L ... ... ... T A l L A N D PARKING LIGHT O N
i H ... ... ... TAIL A N D HEADLIGHT O N

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Controls

Llghtiiig aiii: igiiiiioii S i v i t i h (ST & 6Tj. T u r n tile lever to operate light.
Switch positions :-
0 ... ... ... A L L LIGHTS OFF
P ... ... ... T A I L A N D PARKING LIGHT O N
H ... ... ... T A I L A N D HEADLIGHT O N
Ignition Switch :-
CENTRAL ... ...
I G N I T I O N OFF
IGN ... ...
... I G N I T I O N O N (NORMAL)
*EMG ... ...
... I G N I T I O N O N (EMERGENCY)
*See page 167 before using this switch position.
A m m e t e r . This indicates t h e charging rate o f either the dynamo o r the alternator
when t h e engine i s running, and the amount of discharge when the lights are " O N "
and engine stopped.

I g n i t i o n C u t - O u t B u t t o n ( T I 0 0 & T110). This button i s centrally disposed i n

t h e nacelle and when depressed the ignition t o t h e sparking plugs i s "CUT-OUT".
This i s done by earthing t h e magneto primary circuit.

S t e e r i n g D a m p e r . T u r n t h e damper knob clockwise t o increase damping. The

TR5 damper knob is i n t h e same relative position, the operating rod passing through
t h e head lug i n all cases.

OIL P R E S S U R E I N D I C A T O R
The Indicator b u t t o n operates through the oil pressure release valve, which is
situated i n t h e t i m i n g cover. W h e n t h e engine i s running the indicator button
MUST protrude t o ensure that o i l i s being fed t o the crankshaft.

CARBURETTER AIR C O N T R O L (AMAL)

(5T,T I 0 0 & T110)
The air control lever i s located o n the frame back stay (L.H.) immediately behind t h e
saddle. T u r n the lever away from the stop t o open the a i r valve.

C A R B U R E T T E R M I X T U R E C O N T R O L (S.U.)
(6-0
The mixture control lever i s fitted t o the base of the carburetter and connects t o the
jet. T o enrich t h e fuel m i x t u r e raise t h e lever, and for normal running depress the
lever to its lowest p o i n t (See page 155 for further information).

FOOT CONTROLS
F o o t b r a k e . A flat pedal i n front of the left footrest. Depress t o operate. The
first application should be applied gently and then pressure increased as the road
speed decreases.

Gearchange. A small foot lever i n front of the right hand footrest. The lever i s
moved " D O W N " t o select a l o w ge;lr and "UP" t o select a higher gear. The gear
selected is indicated by a Rnger and indicator plate o n the gearbox front. The
neutral position i s between 1st and 2nd gear and the marking " N u o n t h e indicator
plate denotes the selection position.

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 K i c k s t a r t e r . This is behind the r i g h t hand footrest. A l l models have t h e ft
pedal type w i t h t h e exception of t h e TR5; this model has t h e folding pedal type.

I A D J U S T M E N T O F C O N T R O L S AND R I D I N G P O S I T I O N
W h e n first taking over the machine, t h e rider should re-adjust t h e various controls
t o suit his o w n individual requirements.
;
I

Footrests. The left footrest i s located by t w o pegs and may be placed i n three
different positions. T h e right footrest is mounted o n a taper, o n t h e rigid frame
models, and may be placed i n any desired position. The r i g h t footrest is non-
adjustable o n the swinging arm frame models. A f t e r adjustment ensure t h a t t h e
nuts are tightened securely.
j
G e a r c h a n g e Lever. This is fitted to a serrated shaft. T o re-position, slacken off
t h e set-screw and ease the lever off the serrarions. Replace i n a convenient position
!; and tighten u p the set-screw.

F o o t b r a k e Pedal. This pedal is adjustable o n t h e Rigid Frame Models simply by

adjusting t h e stop screw which i s located on the brake pedal spindle lug. A f t e r
making an adjustment, it may be necessary t o re-adjust t h e rear brake (see page 108).

H a n d l e b a r s . Adjustment is made by slackening off t h e f o u r "U" b o l t nuts and

turning t h e handlebar t o the desired position. The TR5 handlebar is clipped t o
the t o p lug by four set-screws and by releasing these t h e handlebar can be adjusted
i n a similar manner. Ensure that either set-screws o r nuts are securely tightened t o
avoid handlebar slip.
i
C o n t r o l Levers. If the clamping screws which secure t h e lever assemblies t o t h e
handlebar are slackened, the control can be moved t o suit t h e rider's preference.
( A i r lever positioned o n rear frame back stays below the saddle o n Models ST. T I 0 0
a T110).
Twinseat. This item cannot be adjusted for height, b u t has been :o designed t o
suit the average rider.

W h e n placing a machine w i t h Swinging A r m rear springing o n the p r o p stand, p u l l

the rear o f the machine upwards. If this is n o t done the rear suspension units w i l l
eventually extend against the damping and the movement may cause the machine t o
fall over.

C O N T R O L CABLES
ADJUSTMENT POSITIONS
T h r o t t l e C a b l e (ST, T l W , TRS & T110). The adjuster i s located i n the cable,
approximately 12" from the twistgrip.

I 6T. Here t h e adjustment is made o n the right side o f the S.U. carburetter.

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rlii. Cabie (ST, TI% & T!!Oj. Adjust t h e cable abutment s i r e h located i n t h e
carburetter top.
TR5 ... ... N o adjustment
6T ... ... N o t fitted

M a g n e t o C a b l e (TRS, T i 0 0 & T i i 0 ) . Raise t h e rubber sleeve where t h e cable

e n t e n t h e magneto when the adjuster can be t u r n e d after slackening off the locknut.

C l u t c h Cable. Adjustment i s made at the lower portion of the cable immediately

above t h e gearbox casing. (See page 91 f o r f u r t h e r details).

F r o n t B r a k e Cable. A n adjustable t h u m b n u t i s located on the anchor plate o n

all models.

T A K I N G OVER THE M A C H I N E
After taking delivery of t h e machine and before taking it on the road, carefully check
that t h e o i l tank, primary chaincase and gearbox levels are correct (See page 25).
Ensure that t h e battery is in a charged condition, "topped up" t o the correct level
and the battery connections secured.

The tyres should be checked w i t h a pressure gauge and if necessary adjusted in

accordance w i t h t h e instructions on page 139. Fill the petrol tank w i t h a premium
grade of fuel and t h e machine i s ready f o r starting.

Although each machine i s thoroughly checked before leaving the W o r k s o r Distri-

butors f o r t h e security of all nuts, bolts, etc., it is advisable after the firsc 100 miles
t o re-check and again at 500 miles. This is a necessary precaution due t o the bedding
down of t h e engine and motorcycle parts.

S T A R T I N G T H E E N G I N E (COLD)
I
F o r machines fitted w i t h t h e A m a l C a r b u r e t t e r 1
Engage t h e gearbox i n the neutral (N) position.

Turn the petrol tap O N .

I
Lift the clutch lever and depress the kickstarter t w o o r three times t o separate the
clutch plates.

In very cold weather it may be necessary t o close t h e a i r lever (move towards stop
t o close).

Partly retard the magneto spark by turning the control lever away from the closed
i
position (clockwise).

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i I I
I
F i t t e d t o Models TR5, TIM) and T110--Turn on t h e L/H t a p after
i t h e supply f r o m the R I H tap is exhausted.

MAIN PETROL LEVEL

F i t t e d t o ST and 6T-Pull out the

hexagon headed plunger for reserve
supply. The main tap plunger
M U S T b e left i n ON position.

Fig. 2. PETROL T A P POSITIONS

21

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Starting

Flood t h e carburetter b y depressing t h e t i c k l e r o n the lid of the float bowl until the
base of t h e carburetter is just wet. D o n o t flcod t h e carburetter until the petrol
streams o u t o f t h e air vent holes i n the float b o w l l i d as this may cause diMcult starting.

T u r n t h e engine over u n t i l compression can be felt on one cylinder. Re-position

t h e kickstarter pedal t o almost the horizontal position by freeing the clutch.

O n t h e ST model, switch the ignition key t o t h e "IGN" position (other Amal equipped
machines are f i t t e d w i t h magneto ignition).

Open t h e t h r o t t l e slightly by turning t h e twistgrip about t u r n and then depress

t h e kickstarrer pedal smartly when t h e engine should fire immediately. A second
o r t h i r d kick may be necessary i f the controls are incorrectly set.

Failure t o start t h e 5T model may be due to a flat battery, in this case t u r n the ignition
key to "EMG" w h i c h is t h e emergency start position. Depress the kickstarter when
the engine w i i l fire. Once the engine is running the ignition key MUST be returned
t o t h e "IGN" position, as the engine should n o t be run longer than i s absol~~teiy
necessary i n t h e "EMG" position. (For special running conditions on the "EMG"
circuit see page 167).

W h e n the engine starts the air lever can be fully opened as it warms up. It is par-
ticularly i m p o r t a n t t o open the air lever as soon as possible, otherwise the mixture
strength may b e t o o rich and the oil o n t h e cylinder walls will be washed OH. causing
harmful results.

Under n o circumstances allow the engine t o "idle" when cold. The throttle should
be adjusted t o a fast "tickover" i n o r d e r t o warm the oil rapidly and ensure good
circulation. This precaution w i i l reduce cylinder wear.

Finally, attention must be paid t o the o i l pressure indicator immediately the engine
starts. T h e indicator button MUST p r o t r u d e from the release valve cap. if the
b u t t o n does n o t protrude, stop the engine at once and investigate the failure (See
page 28).

Always t u r n t h e petrol taps "OFF" when parking the machine.

S T A R T I N G T H E E N G I N E (COLD)

F o r m a c h i n e s f i t t e d w i t h the S.U. C a r b u r e t t e r

Select t h e neurral (N) position i n t h e Gearbox.

T u r n t h e main petrol tap ON; when n o t i n use t u r n i t OFF.

L i f t t h e clutch lever and depress t h e kickstarter t w o o r three times t o separate the

clutch plates.

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 position when t h e engine is warm.

T u r n t h e engine over by t h e kickstaner u n t i l compression can be felt on one c

Switch o n t h e ignition by t u r n i n g the key i n the centre o f the lighting switch t o t h e

I position "IGN", open the t h r o t t l e about & u r n and then depress the kickstarter
pedal smartly when the engine should f i r e immediately. 11not, r e - p o s ~ t ~ hthe
n throttle
and jet lever.
i
I
Failure t o start t h e engine after t h e controls have been re-set may be due t o a flat
battery; i n this case t u r n the ignition key t o "EMG" which i s the emergency start
1 position. Depress t h e kickstarter when t h e engine w i i l fire. Once the engine is
I
running t h e ignition key MUST be returned t o the "IGN" position as the engine
should n o t be r u n longer than i s absolutely necessary i n the "EMG" position. (For

I special running conditions o n the "EMG" circuit see page 167).

W h e n t h e engine starts, close t h e twistgrip t o a brisk tickover. W h i l e the engine

1
is COLD t h e jet lever should be raised suficientiy t o keep the engine running fast
,I and evenly and should remain i n that position until it i s warm enough t o r u n w i t h
t h e lever fully depressed. It w i l l be noted that the lever i s friction loaded and can,

J therefore, be set i n any position f o r any length of t i m e according t o climatic con-

ditions. For this reason, no specific time f o r the RICH running conditions can be
stated.
i

I i Always t u r n t h e petrol taps "OFF" when parking the machine

1 I
I
RUNNING-IN

For.many years, motorcyclists were advised t o ride t h e i r new machines at a speed

n o t in.excess of 30 m.p.h. f o r t h e f i r s t thousand miles. W i t h a modern machine of
high, o r comparatively high performance, this type of running-in i s entirely useless.
and at t h e end o f the one thousand miles only very little improvement w i i l have
been effected i n the bearing surfaces o f the engine.

Running-in should be carried o u t progressively, and it i s necessary for the rider t o

make what may be termed a very definite arrangement w i t h himself before he starts
riding t h e new machine. H e should make up his mind never t o be bustled during
the running-in period and t o ride at his o w n speed entirely irrespective of the speed
o f o t h e r traffic. It is, naturally.arhoying when one owns a high performance machine

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t o be pbised o n ;he open road by a lightweight, b u t the r ~ d e o
r f a new model must
control his impulses, happy In the thought that the treatment he is giving his engine
w i l l mean considerably improved performance at t h e end o f the running-in period.

W h e n a machine is intelligently and carefully run-in, it w i l l be faster, mechanically

quieter, and will wear longer than t h e mount of a r i d e r who pays n o attention t o
t h e tiner points o f running-in. With a new machine, speed, w i t h i n reason, does 1
n o t greatly come i n t o the question; t h e main idea t o keep i n one's mind is that t h e
engine must never be stressed. By far t h e best ind~cationi s the amount of t h r o t t l e
opening, and during t h e initial stages m o r e than about a quarter t h r o t t l e should n o t
be used.
I
T h e engine must n o t be allowed t o slog i n the higher gear ratios; it i s far better t o
change down t o a lower gear when the engine w i l l be revving faster, b u t much more
easily. It is a g w d plan t o put a little spot of white paint o n the twistgrip rubber
and a spot of black paint o n the chromium plated twistgrip body, i n such a position
that these coincide when the throttle is closed. It i s then easy t o estimate the t h r o t t l e
opening during t h e running-in period and the "spots" can be easily removed. o r the
position of the w h i t e one altered.

A f t e r about 250 miles have been covered, t h e t h r o t t l e opening can be increased t o

say a third, and this means that the speed w i l l gradually increase. A further amount
o f t h r o t t l e can be used as the running-in progresses, until the full t h r o t t l e opening
has been worked u p t o at about 1,200miles.

Following the principle throughout that the engine must never be unduly stressed,
speed bursts w i i l be carried out progressively. W i t h experience it may be found
that a t a certain t h r o t t l e opening the machine w i l l easily reach 50 miles per haur.
W h e n the speedometer needle touches that speed f o r the f i r s t time, the engine
should immediately be throttled down. After a period of slower running, the
50 m.p.h. mark can be worked up t o again, and this time held f o r a little longer.
By gradually w o r k i n g up i n this way, the time w i l l come when the first of a few miles
at 50 m.p.h. has been arrived a t progressively. The same care should be taken when
higher speeds are reached. W i t h the higher performance machines i n t h c Triumph
range, similar care should be taken t o see that the maximum speed i s worked u p t o
very carefully and is only held for a very short period initially. A t really high speeds
it i s advantageous t o close the throttle momentarily a t regular intervals, as this
enables an increased amount of o i l t o pass up the cylinder bore. W h e n the engine
i s thoroughly run-in this precaution is, of course, unnecessary.

During the running-in period great care must be taken t o follow the lubrication
instructions which w i i l be found on page 31.

Lastly, do not forget that you will have plenty of t i m e t o t r y the paces o f your new
mount during the many thousands of miles you w i l l cover after the running-in period
has been completed. Never be tempted t o "see what she w i l l do" i n the early
stages, and do not be persuaded by your friends t o test the speed of t h e machine
against theirs until you are quite satisfied that your engine is thoroughly run-in.

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The d r y sump lubric3tion system i s employed on a l l Triumph engines. The o i l is
fed by gravity from the o i l tank via a filter and pipe t o t h e pressure side o f t h e o i l
pump. The pump i s a double plunger type, fitted w i t h t w o non-return valves.
From this point t h e o i l i s forced through drilled passageways t o the crankshaft, and
f r o m the big end the o i l issues i n t h e form of a fog t o lubricate the pistons and t h e
other internal engine parts.

The o i l pressure is controlled by means o f a release valve situated i n the timing cover.
This valve serves t w o purposes, f i r s t t o release excessive o i l pressure and secondly
t o indicate t h e pressure by visible means. The valve consists of a piston, main spring.
secondary spring, o i l seal and b u t t o n indicator. W h e n t h e engine is running t h e valve
is forced back by o i l pressure o n t h e secondary spring, this being indicated by t h e
button projecting through t h e cover nut. Excessive pressure w i l l move t h e piston
back still further o n the main spring and allow o i l t o be by-passed through the release
valve body t o the crankcase, f r o m there t o be scavenged t o t h e oil rank.

A f t e r lubricating t h e engine, oil h l l s t o the bottom of the crankcase where it is

filtered. T h e crankcase o i l r e t u r n pipe which can be seen protruding through the
filter after the sump plate has been removed, then returns t h e o i l t o the suction side
o f t h e o i l pump t o be returned co the o i l tank. The suction o i l pump plunger has
t w i c e the capacity of the pressure side, i n order t o make certain that n o surplus o i l
remains o n the floor of t h e crankcase. T o lubricate the valve rockers, o i l i s taken
f r o m the return scavenge pipe by tapping the supply just below the o i l tank. The
oil, after being forced through t h e rocker spindles, lubricates the valve stems and
push rod cups. O n all models, external drain pipes are fitted. These pipes collect
t h e o i l f r o m the valve wells i n the cylinder head and transfer it t o the push r o d cover
tubes, where it then lubricates t h e tappets and finally drains i n t o the sump.

LUBRICATION M A I N T E N A N C E
ENGINE

The system employed i s simple and w i l l function over a long period of t i m e w i t h o u t

attention t o the actual pumping mechanism. O n the other hand, failure t o observe
t h e eleinentary precaution o f changing the o i l and cleaning the filters at regular
intervals, may cause a complete breakdown due t o foreign matter entering the system.

If the oil tank cap i s removed after the engine has been started, it w i l l be noted that
t h e r e t u r n of oil t o the tank via t h e stack pipe (seen just inside the filler aperture) is
intermittent. The reason f o r this is that the scavenge side of the o i l pump has a
greater capacity than t h e feed side. Therefore, the crankcase sump is kept free o f
o i l under normal running conditions and the scavenge pump w i l l draw a i r u n t i l the
crankcase scavenge pipe is again submerged i n oil. The air which is forced i n t o the
o i l tank is vented out via an outlet pipe i n t o the primary chaincase.

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ClassicBike.biz
In the event of a lubrication fault, the followina- causes have been listed t o assist In
diagnosing trouble:-

OIL TANK
The level in the oil tank should be I+" a
(4 cms.) below the filler cap. Further
.

addition of oil will cause excessive venting info the primary chaincase due t o lack
of air space. Always ensure rhat the vent pipe i s clear as any obstruction wiil cause
a back pressure in the oil tank, which in turn wiil prevent adequate scavenging by
the oil pump, resulting i n an oil flooded crankcase.

OIL P U M P
The only part likely t o show wear after a considerable mileage i s the oil pump block
which can be replaced very cheaply. The plungers and the pump body being con-
stantly immersed in oil, wear is negligible. It is unnecessary therefore, t o suspect
these parts if the lubrication is a t fault. Should the non-return valve balls not be
seating properly, the pump will not function satisfactorily. The remedy i s t o remove
the oil pump and unscrew the t w o plugs situated under the oil pump body t o remove
the balls and springs. All parts should then be washed in petrol t o remove any
foreign matter, and when replacing the balls they should be given a sharp tap onto
their seatings before re-assembly. Prime the pump with oil before fitting.

Slider, D r i v e Block

Feed Plunger

Scavenge Plunger

Body

I n t a k e Feed P o r t

I n t a k e Scavenge Port

B a l l Valva Seating

Scavenge R e t u r n P o r t

Pressure Feed P o r t

Ball, P u m p Valve

Spring, B a l l V a l v s
Body Plug
Fig, 4. OIL P U M P
- 27

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 OIL R E L E A S E V A L V E A N D I N D I C A T O R
! This u n i t is very reliable and should require no m;intenar.ce other than cleaning.

1 Vv'hen'the oil i s changed it i s advantageous t o dismantle this unit and thoroughly

wash it i n petrcl t o ensure that the piston works freely i n the release valve body.
Under n o circumstances should the release valve springs be t2mpered w i t h as t h e
spring poundage is set t o give the correct o i l pressure. Should it be necessary t o
replace these springs at any time, gencine Triumph spares should be obtained.
/I .'

Fig. 5. I N D E X
1 I n d i c a t o r Shafc 5 Auxiliary Spring 8 Cap W a s h e r
2 Valve Cap 6 Shaft N u t 9 Body
3 R u b b e r Seal 7 Piston 10 Body Washer
4 M a i n Spring

I, ,
OIL PIPES ( T A N K T O E N G I N E )
When replacing the oil pipes t o the rubber connections, care must be exercised t o
prevent chafing the inside of the rubber connection. Failure t o observe this may
result i n a small piece o f rubber entering the o i l system, which, o n reaching the o i l
pump would cause lack of pressure t o the crankshaft. Foreign matter i n the scavenge
pipe line above the pump would be returned t o the tank (in exceptional cases it may
block the rocker oil feed) and i s prevented from entering the o i l system by the tank
filter.
!,'

C R A N K C A S E S C A V E N G E PIPE
I n the unlikely event o l this cracking o r an a i r leak bctwcen the pipe and the crank-
case, the oil will not scavenge from the crankcase. Trouble of this k i n d would only
make itself known when the engine i s hot. A simple method by which the tube can
be tested i s t o first remove the crankcase sump plate and filter and then attach a
length of rubber tubing over the scavenge pipe. Place t h e open end of the rubber
tube i n the mouth and suck. I f the tubing collapses, this w i l l prove the air tightness
of the scavenge pipe. O n the other hand if the tube does not collapse, a leak i s
evident. To rectify this fault, the e'ngine must be removed from the frame and
stripped.

V A L V E ROCKERS, ROCKER SPINDLES A N D P U S H R O D S

The o i l feed t o the rocker spindles is supplied from the scavenge side of t h e main o i l
i
supply. Lack of lubricant t o the rockers can only be caused by a stoppage i n the o i l
! pipe line. The obvious course i s to remove the pipe and check by forcing air through
it. T o check the oil supply a t the spindle, r u n the engine rill ir i s warm t o increase
the o i l temperature and then slacken off the t w o acorn nuts, which secure the o i l

28

ClassicBike.biz
pipe banjos t o the rocker spindles, when a steady d r i p o f o i l should emerge. It is
advantageous t o flood t h e rocker mechanism i f t h e machine has been "laid up" f o r
an appreciable time, o r even after de-carbonising, etc. T o d o this, start t h e engine
and then remove the o i l tank filler cap, when a finger can be placed over t h e scavenge
outlet pipe, thus forcing the o i l through the rocker spindles, rockers, and t o t h e
push rods. NOTE:-Always use t h e correct grade o f o i l as recommended o n page 102.
Cheap, inferior o r t h e incorrect grade o f o i l w i l l shorten t h e life o f t h e engine.

GEARBOX
The gearbox is lubricated by o i l and under no clrcumscances should a heavy viscous
.
oil o r grease be employed. Splash o i l i s fed t o all parts including t h e enclosed
gearchange and kickstarter mechanism t o ensure cornplete lubrication. Fcr o i l
changing and routine maintenance see pages 31 and 32.

PRIMARY CHAINCASE
The primary chaincase houses t h e clutcl?, primary drive chain, engine sprocket an;
for the Models 5T and 6T t h e alternator unit. Care should always be take2 t o
ensure that the correct o i l level i s maintained; the lubricant qudities are n o t reduced
by condensation if the correct grade o i l (SAE 20) i s employed. Failure t o observe
these elementary instructions may result i n a b u r n t o u t clutch, chain failure and
possibly damage t o t h e alternator unit. If an o i l o f a higher viscosity than SAE 20
is used, the clutch plates w i l l be difficult t o separate thus causing extremely noisy
gear changing. For oil changing and routine maintenance, see pages 31 and 32.

CYCLE PARTS
Component parts such as headraces, brakes and swinging fork mechanism are p r o -
vided w i t h grease nipples f o r lubrication purposes. Use only the recommended
greases; heavier grades w i l l n o t ensure correct lubrication, whereas lighter grades
will have a tendency t o pass t h e sealing points. . It w i l l b e noted that n o provision
i s made f o r greasing t h e wheels; o n assembly t h e wheels are packed w i t h grease and
n o further greasing is necessary u n t i l they are examined for general wear and tea:
(See Routine Maintenance, page 31).

CHAINS
The front chain i s enclosed and positively lubricated (See Primary Chaincase, page 30).
The rear chain, however, i s lubricated by controlled o i l splash f r o m t h e primary
chaincase. The method' used is an o i l trough i n t h e rear of the inner chaincase and
a hole drilled t o atmosphere. In the outer cover a corresponding hole i s drilled
and tapped, i n t o which a tapered needle valve is screwed, the taper entering t h e
hole i n t h e inner cover. By screwing the valve i n o r o u t the c i l supply t o the real-
chain is decreased o r increased accordingly.

CONTROLS
The control cables require lubricating at intervals, as, i f they become dry, stiffness
i n operation w i l l resblc. A good plan is t o remove t h e cable at t h e handlebar end,
wrap a piece of b r o w n paper around t h e t o p end of t h e casing t o form a funnel.
securing it i n position by a rubber band. If t h i n machine oil is then fed i n t o t h e
funnel and allowed t o remain overnight, it w i l l trickle d o w n t h e casing and lubricate
the inner wire.

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 .

Changing the Oil

II I
CHANGING THE OIL
When the machine i s new the oil should be changed frequently during the running-in
period in order. t o make certain that any foreign matter which the oil picks up in
'
the course of i t s circulation shall be eliminated.

1 ENGINE
The oil should be changed at 250, 500 and 1,000 miles (400, 800 and 1,600 kms.)
during the running-in period and thereafter every 1.500 miles (2,500 kms.)
regularly. When changing the oil it is essential that the oil filters are thoroughly
cleaned in petrol. I

Oil T a n k Filter. To remove, unscrew the union nut attaching the feed pipe t o
the tank and then the large hexagonal nut t o which the filter is fitted.

Crankcase Filter. This filter i s located i n the base of the crankcase, t o remove,
unscrew the four hexagon headed screws (on l a t e r models the sump plate i s held by
four nuts). Withdraw the filter carefully to avoid damage r o the gauze.

It i s advisable t o flush out the oil tank with a flushing oil which is obtainable from
most garages o r accessory dealers. The flushing oil can be filtered through a piece
of muslin and retained for further use. If the tank i s very dirty it should be removed
from the machine and thoroughly cleaned.

After the lubrication system has been drained and re-filled, all the joints which have
been disconnected and the oil tank drain plug should be gone over again with a
spanner t o make certain that they are perfectly tight before the engine i s started up.
When the engine i s again started, immediately check t o see that the o i l indicator i s
projecting and that the oil i s returning t o the tank. Inspect all joints for oil tightness.

PRIMARY C H A I N C A S E I
The oil in the primary chaincase should be changed every 1,000 miles (1,600 kms.),
o r every month if a thousand miles has not been covered. The correct quantity i s
f pint (200 c.c.). By carefully maintaining the oil level and changing the oil at regular
intervals, the primary chain will be kept in excellent condition and will run for a
long mileage without attention. If the oil is allowed t o become dirty and partially
broken down, wear will develop on the primary chain, which will require constant
adjustment. (See Oil Chart. page 202).
!

' GEARBOX
, !. 1;,
The oil in the gearbox should be drainedand the gearbox flushed out after the machine
;I has run 500 miles (800 kms.). Thereafter. the oil should be changed every 5.000
., /!
miles (8.000 kms.). but it i s advisable t o check the oil level at thousand mile intervals.
/ i,
,8 ' .,4
, .. ,

iI
I $
TELESCOPIC FORKS: See page 98.
I
ClassicBike.biz
 1 1 R O U T I N E M A I N T E N A N C E AFTER R U N N I N G - I N P E R I O D

At'I'KOX
I
1 M A I N T E N A N C E PERIODS

M~les.

I ENGINE
Check o i l and replen~shif necessary . . .... ... 250
Drain o i l tank when warm and re-fill ... ... 1,500
Clean o i l filters . . . . . . ... ... .. 1,500 2,500
I
Check and adjust tappets ... ... ... ... 3,000-4,000 5,000-6,000
Clean and adjust sparking plugs ... ... ... 2,000-3,000 4.000-5,OOO
I Decarbonise and t o p overhaul ... ... ... 10,000-12.000 15.000-18,000

1 GEARBOX
I Check o ~ and
l replen~sh .. ... ... ... 1,000
D r a ~ no ~ (when
l warm) and re-fill ... ... ... 5,000
I
I
/
I
Check clamp bolts ... .. ... ... ... 1,000

I PRIMARY C H A I N C A S E
1
Drain o ~ and
l re-fill ( ~ tfh e mileage is n o t covered,
change monthly) ... ... ... ... ... 1,000
I
Check over securlry screws ... ... ... ... 1,000
I ?

FORKS
Drain o i l and re-fill ... ... ... ... ... 5,000
Renew bushes, bearings and 011 seals at leazt ... 20.000
Apply grease r o lower headrace ... ... ... 1,000
Check play i n headraces ... ... ... ... 5.000
Re-pack headraces w i t h grease ... ... ... 10,000
I

i I
! SWINGING FORK
I Apply grease w l t h gun . . . . . ... ... ... 1,500
1 1
J

W H E E L S (RIGID)
1 Re-pack wirh grease ... ... ... ... ... 10,000 15,OGO
I Check wheel bearings ...... ... ... ... 2,000-3,000 4,000-5,000

/
!
W H E E L (SPRING)
Re-pack w i t h grease ... ... ... ... ... 20,000 30,000
Check wheel bearings ...... ... ... ... 5,000 5,000

See pages 202 ond 203 for recommended lubricants.

31

ClassicBike.biz
Routine Maintenance after Running-rn Per~od

APPP.OXIMA.TE
MAlNTENAPlCE PERIODS
M~les. K~lometres.
CHAINS
Adjust tension i f necessary ... ... ... ... 1,000 1.500
I
Lubricate rear chain (winter) . . . . . (see page 95)
Lubricate rear chain (summer) . . . . . . (see page 95)

BRAKES
Grease cable and r o d mechanism ... ... ... 1,000
Adjust (normal running) ... ... ... ... 1,000

BATTERY
Check level o f acid solution and add distilled water t o
b r i n g level iust above plates monthly. In very hot
weather check m o r e frequently.

T Y R E PRESSURES
Check and correct weekly (see page 139)

CARBURETTER
Dismantle and clean

A I R FILTER
Clean and re-oil filter element ... ... ... 2.000
( W h e r e machine i s used i n extremely dusty con-
ditions the servicing period should be a t more
irequenr intervals).

MAGNETO
Check and adjusr contact points .. ~. . ... 2,000.3.000
Lubricate cam felt w i t h thin oil . . .. 5,OW
Grease (rocker shaft) w i t h Petroleum .!elly ... 5,W

GENERAL
Lubricate all cables, checksecurity of all nuts and bolts 1,000

See pages 202 and 203 for recommended lubriconls

32

ClassicBike.biz
CRANKCASE

maximum'rigidiry. The crankshaft i s supported by t w o heavy duty ball bearings i n

e i t h e r crankcase half. The camshafts are housed fore and aft i n the upper part o f
t h e crankcase and they operate i n phosphor bronze bushes. The camshaft fitted
t o operate the inlet push rods (both camshafts are identical) is so designed, t h a t
crankcase pressure is released t o atmosphere through a rotary disc valve. Located
i n t h e timing side crankcase are t h e timing gears, ancillary drive and the o i l pump.

FLYWHEEL A N D CRANKSHAFT
T h e balanced t w o t h r o w crankshaft, and flywheel are bolted together t o make a
complete unit. The "H" section connecting rods are forged from RR56 Hiduminium
alloy and the bottom caps are steel stampings lined w i t h white metal, the t w o parts
being bolted together w i t h t w o high-tensile bolts.

CYLINDER BLOCK
T w o types o f cylinder block are employed, one being cast from high grade cast-iron
and t h e other die cast from aluminium alioy. The l a t t e r i s fitted w i t h steel liners
w h i c h can be replaced when t h e existing liners are w o r n beyond their maximum
re-bore limits. Each cylinder drovides location for the tappet blocks and tappets.

PISTONS
The pistons are die-cast "LO-EX" aluminium alioy, each fitted w i t h t w o compression
and one scraper ring. The guvdgeon pins are a tight push fit i n the pistons- and are
held i n position by spring steel circlips.

CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head houses the inlet and exhaust valves I n separate combustion
chambers. T w o separate rocker boxes complete w i t h the rockers are bolted t o
t h e head t o operate the valves. As w i t h the cylinder blocks, the heads are made
f r o m either cart-iron o r die-cast aluminium alloy. The latter have cast-iron valve
seats cart i n t o the head durlng the manufacture.

LUBRICATION
D r y sump lubrication Is employed. The system i s operated by a t w i n plunger
reciprocating o i l pump. See page 27 for further information.

CARBURATION
Either by Arnal o r S.U. carburetter.

IGNITION
Elther b y L u c u magneto o r Lucas R M i 4 alternator.

ClassicBike.biz
 --- ~. . . .~ .
~
. .- . .~.
~. . .
''7
The Engine
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Tappet Adjustment

TAPPET ADJUSTMENT
.---
(stt
-. .--. .-..rim-,
s u r r l - t m t ~I )
I
( M o d e l s ST, 6 T & TIM))
I
These models are fitted w i t h camshafts employing a Ramp-Cam f o r m which makes it
necessary to maintain a 0.010" (0.26 mm.) clearance (COLD), between the valve I
rocker adjusting pin and the valve t i p i n o r d e r t o ensure silent operation and
maximum efficiency. If the clearance i s appreciably iess t h e valve t i m i n g w i l l be
affected resulting i n loss of power and t h e possibility o f b u r n t valves.

Models TI10 & TR5

i
These models have high-lift czmshafts and no silencing ramps are incorporated i n t h e
cam form. The tappet adjustment, therefore, differs f r o m t h e other models, the
inlet being set at 0.002" (0.05 mm.) and the exhaust at 0.004" (0.10 mm.).
I
ADJUSTMENT (COLD) I
i
R o c k e r B o x I n s p e c t i o n Caps. Remove all four from t h e rocker boxes.

P o s i t i o n i n g t h e Valves. This operation is made easier by f i r s t removing t h e

sparking plugs. Turn the engine by the kickstarter u n t i l the t i m i n g side exhaust
valve is fully open. This ensures that t h e o t h e r exhaust valve tappet is making
conract w i t h the base of the cam and no e r r o r can be made when checking o r
re-adjusting it.

Tools. In the toolkit, t , ~ o

spanners are provided for this adjustment. (See Fig. 8).

Fig. 8.
ADJUSTING
T H E TAPPETS

ClassicBike.biz
R o c k e r l d j u s t e r Pin. Slacken off t h e adjuster pin locknut and screw down
adjuster u n t i l it just contacts the valve tip. For remaining details o n models ST,
6T and T I 0 0 read (a) and (b) and f o r T I 1 0 and TR5 read (a) and (c).

(a) W h e n t h e adjuster contacts t h e valve tip, hold t h e adjuster firmly w i t h t h e

spanner and tighten up the locknut w i t h the other spanner. G r i p the rocker
adjuster between thumb and forefinger and move t h e rocker sideways to
t e s t for freedom of movement. N o w test t h e up and down movement where
t h e clearance between the adjuster and valve t i p should be just perceptible.

(b) I n o r d e r t o obtain the 0.010" (0.26 mm.) clearance, first take particular n o t e
o f t h e squared end of the adjuster and w i t h both spanners i n position, slacken
t h e locknut slightly, taking care n o t t o move the adjuster whilst doing so.
N o w slacken off the adjuster ONE FLAT ( i and, maintaining it i n t h e
turn)
n e w position, re-tighten the locknut.
Carry o u t the same procedure w i t h each tappet.

(c) T h e clearance on the exhaust valve can be estimated by f i r s t adjusting t h e

tappet as i n (a), paragraph (one). T o obtain the 0.W4" (0.10 mm.) clearance,
slacken back t h e adjuster HALF A FLAT (+ turn). This may be slightly i n
excess o f the clearance figure but the e r r o r i s o n the right side. For the inlet
clearance, only slightly slacken off the adjuster so that when the rocker is
held between thumb and forefinger and operated i n an up and down move-
ment, a distinct "click" can be hesrd when the adjuster strikes the valve tip.

The engine should be decarbonised only when it shows definite signs of requiring
this attention. Falling off i n power, loss of compression, noisy operation, and more
difficult starting are all signs that the engine needs decarbonising. The engine w i l l
probably r u n at least ten thousand miles (15,000 kms.) between t h e decarbonising
periods.

It should be noted that it i s entirely unnecessary t o remove the cylinder block

w h e n decarbonising the engine. W e strongly recommend that this part is n o t
taken off unless it is proposed t o fit new piston rings o r do some other w o r k o n
t h e engine which necessitates the r e m ~ v a ol f the block. The engine w i l i run more
smoothly and give better service if the piston rings are left undisturbed.

Gasket sets are available for all models, and it i s recommended that the correct set
f o r t h e model i s obtained before commencing the work.

Before commencing the operation, clean off any dirt, grease, etc., w i t h paraffin o r a
suitable degreasing agent. Secondly, obtain t w o boxes, one for the cylinder head,
etc., and the other for nuts, washers, etc. By doing this the operator w i l i not have
t o search rhe four corners of the garage for the vital nut t o complete the job.

ClassicBike.biz
Decorbanising

DlSMANTLlNG
.?-.,A,-
Remove ihe l r o n r bolr and t i e back the saddle clear o f t h e petrol tank.
irauuls.

Twinseat. This must be removed.

P e t r o l T a n k . T u r n off the petrol tap o r taps and disconnect the petrol pipes. \
Unscrew the four tank t o bracket securing bolts when the tank can be removed.
Take care not t o lose the rubber tank pads.

E x h a u s t System. Slacken the exhaust pipe finned clip bolts, remove the pipe t o
bracket bolts, the silencer steady t o frame n u t and the silencer hanger bolts. Remove
each pipe and silencer as an assembly. ( O n the TR5 the branch pipe clip b o l t
should also be slackened and the left pipe and silencer taken OH first).
I
T o r q u e Stays. Remove t h e nuts securing the stays t o t h e cylinder head bolts
and slacken off the stays t o frame b o l t when the stays can be disconnected.
!
Electrical Equipment. Disconnect t h e H.T. leads and remove the sparking plugs.
!

Carburetter-Amal. Remove the air cleaner connection and unscrew the t w o

flange nuts. W i t h d r a w t h e carburetrer from the fixing studs and tie it t o the frame.
If it i s desired t o clean the unit, unscrew the knurled ring securing the t h r o t t l e and
air slides and take away the mixing chamber assembly. Carefully tie the slide
assembly t o the frame, out of harm's way.

Carburetter-S.U. Remove the air cleaner connection and vent pipe from the
carburetter. Unscrew the flange nuts and disconnect the t h r o t t l e cable at t h e
carburetter body when the carburetter can be removed.

R o c k e r Feed Pipe. Unscrew the acorn nuts securing the rocker o i l feed pipe
banjos t o the rocker spindles and then ease the pipe OH the spindles.

R o c k e r D r a i n Pipes. Remove the adaptor bolts a t the cylinder head only.

R o c k e r Boxes. F i r s t unscrew and remove the four centre bolts which secure the
rocker boxes and cylinder head to the block. The next operation i s t o remove the
FOUR NUTS holding the rocker boxes t o cylinder head BEFORE removing the four
small rocker box bolts. Failure t o observe this W A R N I N G may result in BROKEN
CYLINDER HEAD LUGS. W h e n all fixings have been unscrewed, remove the
rocker boxes.
i
E x h a u s t Push Rods a n d C o v e r . Remove

C y l i n d e r Head. Unscrew the remaining four holding down bolts, when the head
can be lifted off the block.

I n l e t Push Rods a n d Cover. Remove.

INSPECTION A N D PREPARATION
The method of decarbonising the parts and r ~ m o v i n gthe valves and grinding-in, etc.,
i s fully explained under the above heading o n page 46.

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 I
RE-ASSEMBLY
1
I
inletp u s h R o d s a n d C o v e r . First fit the l o w e r r u b b e r o i l seals over both tappet
blocks. N o w assemble t h e inlet push rods and cover t o :re tappets and block.
Ensure t h a t t h e drain pipes are f i t t e d at this stage.
I
1 C y l i n d e r H e a d . Fit t h e copper gasket t o t h e cylinder b l ~ : i and then fit the head
j w i t h manifold. Enter and screw d o w n t h e f o u r s h o r t bolts, b u t d o n o t
11 fully tighten.
'1 I n l e t R o c k e r B o x . Grease t h e rocker b o x gaskets and c ? p e r push rod cover
I washer and assemble t o t h e rocker box. T u r n t h e engir.e over until both inlet

1
I push rods are nearly level and then assemble t h e r o c k e r b:x t o the cylinder head
and push r o d cover. Check that t h e gaskets have n o t t e e n . misplaced and then
enter t h e t w o short r o c k e r b o x holding d o w n bolts and f i r m l y screw down. Fit
and tighten t h e t w o r o c k e r b o x t o cylinder head nuts. T H E FiTTING O F THE

l BOLTS MUST PRECEDE T H E NUTS. If t h e valve seats have been re-cut and t h e
valve faces re-ground, it is a good plan t o slacken back t h e r o c k e r adjuster before
fitting the rocker box.
ii E x h a u s t R o c k e r B o x . Fit the push rods and cover t o t h e tappet and block (drain
pipes fitted). Fit the exhaust rocker box in exactly t h e same manner as the inlet one.
I
R o c k e r O i l D r a i n A d a p t o r s . Ensure that t h e o i l drain adaptor bolts are clean
I
I
1
I
and then fit a copper washer t o each. Slide another copper washer between t h e
o i l drain banjo. and insert t h e adaptor and tighten. Care should be exercised

I
I
when tightening i n t o an alloy head (TRS & T100).
1
C y l i n d e r H e a d H o l d i n g Bolts. Position the remaining f o u r bolts (the torque stay
i bolts t o t h e rear, see supplement) and screw d o w n u n t i l a g r i p i s felt. A l l eight bolts
i
I
should n o w be evenly tightened b u t do n o t use excessive force on the spanner.
T h e actual force required i s 18 ft. pounds; i f tightened beyond this figure distortion
may take place.
i i
I i T o r q u e Stays. Replace t h e stays t o the engine bolts and securely tighten t h e
i! nuts and clip bolts.
i R o c k e r Oil F e e d Pipe. Place one copper washer o n each rocker spindle; fit t h e
I
! o i l pipe banjos over t h e spindles, followed by another copper washer and the t w o
domed nuts. W h e n tightening the nuts, steady t h e o i l pipe at the spindles t o
1
j
prevent it turning, otherwise a broken joint may result.

T a p p e t s . Re-set t h e tappets (see page 36) and replace t h e rocker inspection caps
complete w i t h new washers, t o the rocker box.

Carburetter-Arnal. If the carburetter slides have been removed, replace them

at this stage and after screwing down the knurled fixing ring, test the slide operation
i by w o r k i n g t h e controls. Position the flange washer t o the manifold (TR5 & T I 0 0
1 flange washer, tufnol block and flange washel) and then fit the carburetter t o the
studs. Connect u p the filter connection; fit and tighten the flange nuts.

Fit the flange washer and assemble the carburetter t o t h e

1 Carburetter-S.U.
manifold, connect t h e air filter connection and vent pipe. F i t and tighten the t w o
flange nuts. Assemble the t h r o t t l e cable t o the carburetter body and test operation.
i

ClassicBike.biz
Removing the Engine from the Frame
I
E x h a u s t System. P.eplace the exhaust pipe: and silencers zs an assembly and
ensure that all securing bolts are well tightened.
I
P e t r o l Tank. Replace the tank t o t h e frame and ensure that a rubber pad is fitted
a t each side o f t h e connection, Connect up the petrol pipes.

S a d d l e and Twinseat. Position t o frame and tighten the fixing bolrs.

I
Testing. Check that there is petrol i n the tank, t u r n o n t h e petrol tap, set the
controls and start the engine. Run f o r a short time until the engine i s warm and
then set t h e slow running o n the carburetter. Finally check over all engine nuts
and bolts.
I
R E M O V I N G T H E E N G I N E F R O M T H E FRAME
(RIGID F R A M E MODELS)

T w i n s e a t or Saddle. Remove t h e twinseat. If a saddle i s fitted remove the front I

b o l t and t i e t h e saddle back. i
P e t r o l Tank. T u r n off petrol taps, disconnect the petrol pipes, unscrew the four
tank bolts and remove the tank.
E x h a u s t System. Remove t h e exhaust pipe and silencer as an assembly on the
models 5T & 6T by slackening t h e finned clip bolts and removing the silencer t o
frame bolts. O n the TR5 the exhaust pipe t o head i s released by unscrewing the
adaptors w i t h a "C" spanner. Slacken off the branch clip b o l t and remove the
silencer b o l t when the system can be removed.
T o r q u e Stays (5T & 6T). Remove t h e nuts secuiing the stays t o the cylinder head
bolts and slacken off the stays t o frame bolt, when t h e stays can be disconnected.
The TR5 steady i s made by utilising a f r o n t engine b o l t through a clip which i s fitted
to t h e iower tank rail. T o disengage, remove the bolt.

Control Cables. Disconnect the throttle, magneto (TR5 only) at the handlebar
and the air cable (5T & TR5 only) at t h e rear stays. Neatly loop the cable: as closely
as possible to their respective engine fitting.
Footrests. Remove the L.H. footrest and detach the R.H. footrest and spindle by
simply pulling out.
F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Unscrew the spindle nut and withdraw t h e pedal. I
I

P r i m a r y Chaincase, C l u t c h , A l t e r n a t o r and E n g i n e S p r o c k e t . Remove

these parts as described on page 83.
Air F i l t e r , B a t t e r y C a r r i e r a n d B a t t e r y . Disconnect t h e battery lead and
remove t h e battery carrier clip b o l t when the battery can be removed. Remove
t h e carrier t o p n u t and the t w o base bolts, when the carrier and air cleaner w i l l be
released.
P r i m a r y Chaincase Inner. Unscrew the r e a r chainguard t o chaincase bolt and I
withdraw t h e chaincase from the shafts.
i
Oil Pipes. Place an oil drip tray under the engine and disconnect t h e engine o i l
pipes at the crankcase and the rocker feed pipe a t the rocker box spindles.

ClassicBike.biz
 Removing the Engine from the Fro

D y n a m o . Remove the terminal wires and t h e domed n u t o n t h e timing cover.

Slacken t h e clip screw and w i t h d r a w t h e dynamo.

except t h e . l o w e r front.
R e a r E n g i n e Plates. Remove t h e t w o f r o n t t o p studs and nuts and slacken the
remainder.
Engine. Tilt t h e engine towards t h e rear of t h e machine and swing forward the
f r o n t engine plate. The engine can n o w be llfted o u t of t h e frame.

R E M O V I N G T H E E N G I N E F R O M THE FRAME
( S W I N G I N G A R M FRAME MODELS)
Twinseat. Remove f r o n t and slacken t h e rear securing bolts; detach twinseat.
P e t r o l T a n k . T u r n off t h e petrol taps, disconnect the petrol pipes, unscrew the
four tank b o l t s and remove t h e tank.
E x h a u s t S y s t e m . Remove t h e exhaust pipe and silencer zssemblies by slackening
the finned clip bolts and removing t h e bracket and silencer bolts.
T o r q u e Stays. Slacken t h e frame lug bolt, unscrew the stay t o engine bolt nuts,
when t h e stays can be removed f r o m the engine.
C o n t r o l Cables. Disconnect t h e magneto and t h r o t t l e cable at handlebar and the
air cable a t rear stays (under twinseat). Neatly loop the cables as close as possible
t o t h e i r respective engine fitting.
Footrests. Remove both footrests b u t leave t h e spindle i n position.
F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Take o u t the split-pin securing the operating r o d t o the pedal
and then unscrew the pedal spindle n u t when the pedal can be withdrawn after
disengaging t h e stop lamp switch spring.
P r i m a r y Chaincase. A l t e r n a t o r , C l u t c h a n d Engine S p r o c k e t . Remove these
parts as described o n page 83.
Oil Pipes. Place an o i l d r i p tray under the engine and disconnect the engine
o i l pipes a t the crankcase and the rocker feed pipe at the rocker b o x spindles.
Dynamo. Remove the terminal wires and the dome nut o n the timing cover.
F r o n t F n g i n e Plates. Place a box of suitable height under the crankcase so that
the sump plate rests o n it. Remove the nuts from the t w o upper studs. The studs
can then be driven o u t and the cover plate removed. Slacken the dynamo clip screw
and w i t h d r a w the dynamo f r o m the housing. Remove t h e remaining studs r o
release t h e f r o n t engine plates.
R e a r E n g i n e Plates. Here it i s only necessacy t o deal w i t h the engine plates t o
crankcase studs. Remove t h e t w o t o p studs and nuts and slacken off the nuts
securing t h e lower stud.

Engine. Remove the box and t i l t the englne towards the rear of the machine
when the lower crankcase stud wi!l disengage itself from the engine plates. L i f t
t h e engine o u t of the frame housing.

ClassicBike.biz
 . ..~~. - . ~.
.-

Dismantling the Engine

DISMANTLING THE ENGINE

Having removed the engine from the frame, it should be mounted on the bench in
such a manner that the w o r k can be conveniently carried out. The Fig. 9 shows a
useful and simple method of holding the engine firmly t o enable dismantling.

, , . ,
. i, D I S M A N T L I N. G.
,, , . Oil Pressure Release Valve. Unscrew from the timing cover.
:/ ,'.~
: ,'L
8, , ,
'
I. Timing Cover. Remove the securing screws and tap around the edge with a
s ; 1 ; ,
;
!
I
. ,
hide hammer t o break the cover joint. Withdraw the cover.
I: 8 :
! i;
:I j

Fig. 9. E N G I N E IN VICE

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Oil Pump. Take off the t w o securing nuts and slide the pump off the studs.

C r a n k s h a f t a n d Camshaft Nuts. Remove these nuts. N o t e that the camshaft

has a L.H. THREAD (turn clockwise t o unscrew) and the crankshaft nut has a R.H.
THREAD (turn anti-clockwise t o unscrew).

D i s t r i b u t o r Gear (Coil). Remove the circlip from the drive pinion boss groove,
which retains the pin lockihg the drive gear o n the shaft. Remove the pin when
the gear and steel thrust washer can be withdrawn.

M a g n e t o Gear. unscrew the securing nut and screw into the gear centre the
withdrawal tool (DA50/1) which is supplied w i t h the tool kit. When the tool is
i n position, tighten the centre bolt when the gear w i l l be withdrawn from the shaft-

Carnwheels. If the bushes i n the timing side crankcase are not worn, it i s un-
necessary t o remove the camwheels as the crankcase can be split without detaching
them. The removal of these gears necessitates the use of the special withdrawal
tool 289. Screw the body of the cool "C" o n t o the threaded portion of the
camwheel (See Fig. I t ) , and by screwing the extractor bolt "A" i n the camwheel
is withdrawn from the shaft.

l n t e r r n e d i a t e Gear Wheel. Remove from the spindle.

Fig. 10.

CAMWHEEL

REMOVAL A N D

REPLACEMENT

T O O L , 289.

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 Removing Camwheels

Fie. 11. R E M O Y ! N t THE CAMWHEEL

C r a n k s h a f t Pinion. Again a special tool must be employed t o withdraw this

gear from the crankshaft. Fig. 12 clearly illustrates i t s application. T o assemble
- t o t h e gear, withdraw the collar "A" from the jaws, fit the plug "CH.into the
crankshaft end and then fit the jaws "0" over the gear. Close the jaws
and re-fit the collar t o retain them in posirion. N o w t u r n the tommy bar
clockwise when the gear w i l l be drawn f r o m the shaft. D o n o t attempt t o shock
the p a r OH the shaft by striking the extractor tommy bar w i t h a hammer. This
rneth?d w i l l only cause damageto the extractor jaws. Remove the key from the
shaft.

C y l i n d e r H e a d a n d R o c k e r Boxes. This unit should be removed as an assembly.

Unscrew the four rocker o i l drain adaptors and the eight cylinder head holding bolts.
when t h e u n i t can be removed from the cylinder block.

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 Fig. 13.
CRANKSHAFT
PINION
REMOVAL T O O L

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Dismantling Cylinder Head

"..-L "-2- --2 P

ru.ll .wua ..tau ru.slz. R e m w e f i o m t h e tappet b l o c k ~ .

C y l i n d e r B l o c k . Unscrew t h e eight nuts; secure t h e tappets i n the blocks by

placing a rubber wc.dge between them, taking care n o t t o use undue force. Carefully
l i f t the cylinder block off t h e pistons.

Pistons. Remove a circlip from each piston and then press t h e gudgeon pins o u t
f r o m t h e opposite end. The fit o f t h e gudgeon pins i n t h e pistons i s fairly tight;
i f a gudgeon pin extractor is available, it should be employed. The pistons should
be suitably marked o n t h e inside t o ensure replacement t o t h e i r original positions.
Magneto o r Distributor. Unscrew t h e securing nuts and remove the unit.
C r a n k c a s e b o l t s . Remove t h e remaining bolts and screws. NOTE.-Do not
forget t o remove t h e t w o screws f r o m t h e internal bosses.
C r a n k c a s e F i l t e r . Slacken off t h e vice jaws and remove t h e crankcase. Unscrew
t h e four nuts holding t h e filter base and remove the base and f i l t e r gauze.
C r a n k s h a f t a n d Camshafts. T o split t h e crankcase, bump t h e drive shaft o n t o a
piece of wood when the t w o halves w i l l readily part. The crankshaft and camshafts
can n o w be removed.
In the drive side crankcase t h e breather rotary valve and spring i s located i n the
camshaft bush. Care should be taken n o t t o lose these.

DISMANTLING, PREPARATION A N D ASSEMBLY O F

T H E ENGINE UNITS
CYLINDER H E A D
R o c k e r Boxes. Unscrew t h e four nuts and then the four screws when the rocker
boxes can be removed f r o m the head. Wash t h e rocker boxes thoroughly and inspect
the parts for wear. Check t h e ball ends, adjuster pins, and rockers o n the spindles
for wear. Examine t h e rocker boxes for cracks o r pulled studs. Normally, wear
on the rocker spindles is negligible as they are fully lubricated. The adjuster pins
sometimes show slight wear or indentation which can be removed by lightly stoni;lg
the hardened pad. If t h e markings are t o o deep, t h e pins should be replaced.
Carefully inspect the ball ends, i f the spheres are mis-shapen t h e bail ends must be
changed. This operation w i l l necessitate dismantling t h e rocker box o r boxes.
T o do this, knock o u t the rocker spindle f r o m t h e threaded end using a hide hammer
o r similar s o f t t o o i t o prevent damage t o the thread. A f t e r withdrawing the rocker
levers the ball ends can be pressed o u t o f t h e housings and t h e new ball-ends fitted.
W h e n replacing t h e spindles, a new rubber seal must be employed: Fig. 6 shows
the position o f the various washers.
Valves a n d Springs. Compress the valve springs sufficiently w i t h a compressor
too!, when t h e split cotters can be ezsed away w i t h a narrow screwdriver o r similar
tool. Release t h e t o o l and withdraw both valve and valve springs. Repeat t h e
operation to t h e other valves; mark the valves f o r replacement. Inspect the springs
for signs of fatigue (Free length Outer, 2.031" (5.16 cms.); Inner, 1.625" (4.13 cms.) );
i f i n doubt, a new s e t of springs should be obtained.

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 Clean the valves and remove any b u r n t o i l f r o m the stems; if t h e valve faces are
pitted they can be re-ground, b u t excessive grinding by machine is n o t advisable as
t h e heat transference o f t h e valve w i l l be adversely affected. The stem o f the valve
should be inspected f o r wear and scuffing and if either is pronounced, it should b e
replaced.

R e m o v i n g C a r b o n f r o m C y l i n d e r H e a d . Remove t h e carbon w i t h a f l a t r o u n d

i 1 headed scraper from the head spheres and ports. Take particular care when cleaning
around the valve seatings to,avoid damage t o t h e faces. Inspect the valve seats f o r
pitting o r pocket~ngand the valve guidesfor ovality. Remember, i f thevalve guides are
changed, the valve seatings must be re-cut. T h e same applies t o a valve replacement
l
I
o r a valve wliich has had the seating face re-ground.

. . R e p l a c i n g t h e V a l v e Guides. T o remove t h e old guide place a shoulder d r i f t

I i n t o the guide from the inside of t h e combustion chamber and drive out. W h e n
I
fitting the new guide, grease the o u t e r diameter and drive i n t o the cylinder head
from the top. 'Always use a shoulder d r i f t when doing this operation and drive
I
I
i n the guide carefully t o avoid damage.

R e - c u t t i n g t h e V a l v e Seats. A job such as this can normally be undertaken by

I your dealer a t a moderaie cost. A f t e r the seats have been re-cut, they should be
blended t o give an even seatlng of approx~mately (2.38 mm.).

G r i n d i n g - i n t h e Valves. This should be done w i t h a fine carborundum grinding-in

paste. First smear a l i t t l e grease around the valve face and insert the stem i n t o t h e
new valve guide. Attach the valve grinding t o o l t o the stem t i p and commence t o
grind the valve face t o the valve seating, using a semi-rotary movement, occasionally
lifting the valve and turning through 180'. Continue this process until a uniform seat
results. Remove the valve and wash thoroughly i n petrol o r parafin and examine
the seating. A surer method i s t o apply a t h i n even smear of "Engineers' marking
blue" t o the face o f the valve. Rotate the valve one complete revolution and t h e n
remove it for inspection.

A thin uniform line. free from p i t marks o r other surface blemishes o n valve face and
valve seat indicates that the seating is satisfactory. A f t e r completion, the part must
be thoroughly washed t o remove all traces of the grinding-in compound.

i
A s s e m b l i n g t h e C y l i n d e r H e a d . First e n s u r e i h a t all parts are thoroughly clean,
then oil the valve stems and guides. Place a valve i n t o its respective guide ( N o t e
i
! inlet are marked "IN" and exhaust "EX".) and holding the valve head against t h e
i seat, t u r n the head o n i t s side and fit phe lower spring cup over t h e guide and then
the inner and outer spring and finally t h e t o p collar. Compress the springs w i t h a
I Compressor tool until the split cotters can be fitted i n t o t h e cpllar and around t h e
I valve stem cut-away. .Release the pressure'on the compressor t o o l and remove.
Tap the stem head of the valve smartly t o ensure correct replacement of the cotters.
i Repeat the operation t o the other valves. The exhaust pipe stubs on the T100.
I
1 are screwed i n t o the exhaust ports and tightness must be ensured before replacing
the cylinder head. D o not replace the rocker boxes at this stage.

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Cyl~nderBlock

C Y L I N D E R B L O C K AND P I S T O N S

C y l i n d e r B l o c k . Remove all traces of carbon from the upper wall of the bores ,
and then wash thoroughly in a cleaning solvent. Check the amount of wear in
the upper part of t h e bore by comparing it w i t h the measurements i n the lower.
i
Anything over 0.005'' (0.13 rnrn.) w i l l denote that re-boring is necessary. A rough It 1
check can be made by checking the piston ring gap i n various sections of the cylinder thi
bores. Normally t h e wear at the bottom of the bore i s very light. d0.

Fig. 14. ASSEMBLING T H E TAPPET BLOCK

4R

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 11;spectiort sf Pistons ond Tcppcti
-
RECOMMENDED REBORE OVERSIZES ARE AS FOLLOWS:-
Cast lron Block +.010"/+.020"/+.040" 500 C.C.
Cast Iron Block +.010"/+.020" 650 C.C.
Alloy Block +.Olo"]+.020" 500 C.C.

It w ~ l be
i noted that the alloy block can only be re-bored t o a maximum o f +
.020°.
this i s due t o the fact that cylinder liners are fitted. Further re-boring would t h i n
down t h e liner beyond safety limits. it is pos's~ble ta change t h e liners, b u t w o r k
such as this should only be entrusted t o a competent engineering concern, w h o
w i l l have the necessary eqqipment.

Tappets. The base of the tappets have a "Stellite" t i p fitted ; this material has
grear resistance t o wear and under general running conditions t h e tappets w i l l n o t
require changing until a considerable mileage has been covered. The centre o f t h e
t i p may show signs of indentation which i s caused by the peak of the cam. This does
n o t however indicate wear and the tappet can be re-insraiied.

T a p p e t Blocks. It i s not necessary t o remove t h e tappet blocks f r o m t h e cylinder

base f o r inspection ; the amount of wear can be estimated by rocking r h e tapper
head. The tappet stem should be a sliding fit i n the tappet block bores and t h e
tappet base must fig snugly i n the block base. Slackness at these points w i l i cailse
excessive mechanical clatter. T o remove the tappet blocks f r o m t h e cylinder base
flange, place the cylinder block downwards on the bench, remove t h e locking screw
and d r i f t t h e tappet block o u t of the cylinder flange. W h e n fitting t h e new tappet
block, grease the outer surface and i f possible support t h e cylinder flange (See
Fig. 14). D o not forget t o line up the locking screw hole I n t h e tappet block t o
that i n t h e flange. Replace the locking screw.

Pistons. If the pistons are t o be further employed, the rings and gudgeon pins
when removed from each piston should be kept separate t o ensure correct replace-
ment. Carefully clean away the carbon deposit from the piston crown, taking
particular care n o t t o scratch the metal surface. The light deposit o f b u r n t oil i n
the piston s k i r t should be removed by rubbing w i t h a rag which has been dipped
i n pettol. Never i n any circumstances use an emery cloth. T o clean t h e ring
grooves, it is advantageous t o use an old broken ring by inserting t h e broken end
i n t o the groove and working it around t h e circumference. Clean o u t t h e o i i drain
holes i n t h e scraper ring groove and thoroughly wash the piston. Or, t h e irkside
surface of t h e piston rings w i l i be found a light deposit of carbon which must be
removed i f the rings are t o be re-fitted.

N o w r o l l each ring around i t s respective groove t o ensure that it does n o t stand

proud of the piston after being fitted correctly and compressed. Before fitting n e w
rings, the gap must be checked in the lowest part o f the cylinder bore. The rirry
must lie square t o the bore for checking purposes and t o ensure this, place t h e
bottom1 of the piston skirt onto the ring and ease it about f" (13 mm.) down t h e
bore. Check the gap by feeler gauge.
Min. Max.
Compression Ring Gap ... 0.010" (0.25 mm.) 0.014" (0.35 mm.)
Scraper Ring Gap (500 c.c.) ... 0.007" (0.18 rnm.) 0.011" (0.28 mm.)
,, .. ,, (650 c.c.) ... 0.010" (0.25 rnm.) 0.014" (0.35 mm.)

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Piston Rings

When replzcing the piston rings on the models 5T and bT, note that the second
compression ring has tapered sides and must be fitted in the middle piston ring
groove. The face with (TOP) etched on it must be towards the piston crown.
The models TIM), TI10 and TR5 are fitted with a chrome taper ring in the top p~sron
ring groove. This ring may be identified by i t s bright chrome appearance and should
also be fitted with the etched word (TOP) towards the crown, but in the top ring
groove.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 16. C h r o m e Taper Faced Ring Position.

50

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 VALVE P U S H R O D S A N D C O V E R T U B E S
Push Rods. Examine t h e end cups f o r chips around the edge, slackness o n t h e tube
and general wear inside t h e cups. For any of these faults, t h e push rods must be
renewed. Bent push rods can cause undue noise and loss o f power, so before
replacing t h e m t o t h e engine, examine each one for straightness b y rolling t h e m o n
a t i u e surface which could show u p any irregularity.

C o v e r Tubes. I f o i l leakage is t o be avoided after an overhaul, always ensure t h a t

t h e ends are t i g h t o n the tubes and i n n o way damaged.

C R A N K C A S E UNIT
Main Bearing. Remove the timing side bearing retaining ring (where fitted), and
press o u t t h e t i m i n g and driving side main bearings. This can be more easily accom-
plished by warming t h e crankcase. Wash thoroughly and d r y o u t w i t h compressed
air if possible as this w i l l tend t o remove any small particles of foreign matter. Spin
t h e outer race t o test t h e bearing f o r roughness and then inspect the balls and track
f o r signs o f indentation o r pitting. Finally, test t h e end float which should be
negligible i n a good bearing. Replace i f any fault i s shown.

Crankcase. Wash t h e crankcase halves and inspect ail stud fixings f o r security and
t h e casting for cracks o r damage. Remember, i f one half of the crankcase i s damaged,
a complete new crankcase must be purchased as these are machined i n pairs. The
camshaft bushes normally shbw very l i t t l e signs of wear until a considerable mileage
has been covered. T o make a rough check, fit the camshaft i n t o t h e bearing and
ascertain the u p and down movement. if it i s desirable that the bushes are changed,
proceed as i n the following paragraph.

C a m s h a f t Bushes. T o remove t h e bushes i n the timing side half, heat (lOO°C.

approx.) t h e crankcase around t h e bush housing when the bushes can be easily
pressed out. W h i l e r h e case is s t i l l warm, press i n the new bushes, ensuring that
t h e o i l hole i s lined u p w i t h t h e driiiway i n the housing. The removal of t h e drive
side bushes is a l i t t l e more difficult and it is necessary t o cut a thread i n the bushes
w i t h a tap before heating the crankcase. W h e n this is done, re-insert the tap and
hold the square end in the vice when the crankcase can be gently tapped away w i t h
a hide hammer leaving the bush attached t o the tap. Located behind the rear bush
i s the breather valve porting disc. Before replacing the new bush, ensure that this
disc i s correctly positioned o n the locating peg.

/ If the temperature of the crankcase half has dropped, re-heat and then press i n the
new bushes. The phosphor bronze bushes are machined t o size before pressing
in, and only t h e smallest amount of metal need be removed when reamering. To
ensure accurate alignment, t h e t w o halves should be bolted together before
reamering.
1
Scavenge Pipe. Check this pipe f o r security and ensure that a perfect oil seal i s
made where it enters t h e crankcase at the pump position. Failure at this point
would reduce oil scavenge t o the minimum. I
I

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Servicing Crankcase

R e f i t t i n g t h e m a i n Bearings. O n all models previous t o 1954 and the 1954

model ST, a bearing chipshield i s inserted before the timing side main bearing and
a disc and circlip following t h e bearings. It w i l l be found easier t o fit the bearings
o n all models If t h e crankcase is heated I n the area of the bearing housing before
pressing t n e bearings i n t o position.

Timing Cover. This cover houses a very important bush which seals the crank-
'shaft oil supply. If this bush i s worn, t h e pressure from the oil pump w i l l be released
directly i n t o t h e timing cover, thus reducing the quantity and pressure of oil t o the
big ends. The bush should always be changed when overhauling the engine. Press
o u t t h e old bush and press in t h e new bush. Reamer i n position. (New crankshaft
end diameter =0.622" - -
0.623". Bush internal diameter= 0.6235" 0.624").

Timing Gears. Timing gear wear is negligible ; the only part which will require
changing after considerable mileage i s the intermediate gear bush. To change,
push o u t the old bush and insert the new. It may be necessary t o lightly reamer
t h e bush t o suit t h e spindle diameter. If the timing gears a r e noisy, it i s futile to
purchase an odd gear t o overcome this fault. A far better plan i s t o consult your
Triumph dealer w h o w i l l be able t o remedy this trouble by selective assembly of
gears from his stocks.

Oil Pump. As previously stated under "Lubrication Maintenance", Page 25, only
t h e o i l pump block w i l l show signs of wear after considerable mileage. When doing
an engine overhaul, however, completely dismantle the pump by removing the t w o
plungers and the t w o body plugs when the non-return ball valves and springs will be
released. Wash t h e pump body and examine the bail seatings ; i f these show signs
o f heavy indentation, pitting o r wear t o one side of the seat, they can be re-cut w i t h
a 45' cutter o r d r i l l suitably sharpened. inspect the balls and springs and if i n doubt
about their condition, new one: should be fitted. When replacing the bails, they
should be given a sharp tap onto t h e i r seatings t o ensure a good seat. After
assembling t h e pump, submerge the body i n o i l and operate the plungers. This
w i l l prime the pump and a t the same time give some indication of i t s pumping ability.

Oil Release V a l v e and I n d i c a t o r . The illustration. Fig. 5, indicates t h e con-

struction of the valve and indicator and should be closely followed during the dis-
mantling and assembly procedure. First remove the valve cap and indicator assembly
by unscrewing f r o m the main body when the piston valve can be withdrawn. T o
remove the indicator, grip the shaft nut and unscrew the shaft from it. W i t h d r a w
the shaft t o release the springs and rubber seal. Carefully clean ail parts and ensure
that t h e piston valve works freely i n t h e body. D o not tamper w i t h the springs by
stretc'hing t o increase the tension as t h e spring poundage i s set t o give the correct
pressure. W h e n replacing the indicator always fit a new oil seal. Assemble i n t h e
following manner : Place indicator shaft i n t o the cap and slide the new o i l seal over
t h e shaft followed by the main spring (large) and auxiliary spring (small) and finally
screw o n the shaft nut. O i l the piston valve and enter into the body, position t h e
joint washer on t h e body and screw o n the cap assembly.

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 C r a n k s h a f t a n d C o n n e c t i n g R o d Assembly. The dismantling, bverhauf and
assembly of this unit i s a job that i s normally undertaken by the dealer, or at the works.
If t h e owner wishes t o carry o u t t h e work, he must have a certain amount of
mechanical a b i l ~ t yand a good workshop.

D i s m a n t l i n g . G r i p the bottom end o f the flywheel i n the vice and carefully mark
each r o d so that they can be replaced i n exactly the same position relative t o t h e
cranks and t h e connecting rod cap t o the rod itself. Unscrew t h e t w o nuts recurin,
each r o d and remove the rods from t h e cranks. Replace the cap t o the rods f o r
the t i m e being. Identify the cranks t o the flywheel and then remove the six bolts
and nuts when the assembly can be parted.

I n s p e c t i o n a n d Identification. Wash all parts thoroughly and examine the

bearing surfaces.
New.
Crank big-end journal size : Earlier pattern 1.4360" (3.6484 cms.)
1.4365" (3.6497 cms.)
Currsnt models 7.6235" (4.1237 cms.)
1.6240" (4.1 250 cms.)
Connecting rod big-end size : Earlier pattern 1.4370" (3.6510 cms.)
1.4375" (3.6522 cms.)
,, , Current models 1.6250" (4.1 275 cms.)
1.6255" (4.1 289 cms.)
Connecting rod sma!l end (All) ... ... 0.6885" (1.7488 cms.)
0.6890" (1.7501 cms.)
Gudgeon pin size (All) ...... ... ... 0.6882" (1.7480 cms.)
0.6885" (1.7488 cms.)
Connecting rod end float (All) ... ... 0.0290" (0.737 mm.)
0.0320" (0.81 3 rnm.)

Light score marks on the crank big-end journals can be carefully eased down w i t h
smooth emery but after this operation the parts must be carefully washed again.
If the cranks are scored, rhe connecting rod big-ends w i l l also show similar signs,
these should be carefully removed by using a scraper and i f necessary a minute amount
of metal can be removed from the mating surfaces of the cap and rod t o enable the
r o d to be refitted t o i t s original clearances. If any metal i s removed from the mating
surfaces, the bearing will have t o be re-bedded by remov'qg all high spots (use
engineers' marking blue on the journal bearing t o detect higri ipots) w i t h a scraper.
Remember, the maximum amount of white metal i n the connecting rod cap is 0.025"
(0.635 mrn.). This operation should only be done by a mechanic who is fully con-
versant w i t h this type o f engineering procedure.
If the damage i s beyond repair, service re.ground cranks and connecting rods t o fit
can be obtained from a dealer i n the following UNDERSIZES :-
Cranks ... .,. ... ... ... ... .... 0.010"-0.020''
Connecting rods ... ... ... ... ... ... 0.01 0"-0.020''
The small end bush wear can be detected by inserting the gudgeon pin into the bush.
If i n good condition the pin should be a smooth working fit i n the buih, no rock
being i n evidence. To replace the bush, press out the old one and a t the same t i m e

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Connectine Rod

insert t h e nev:. Ensure that t h e oilw-j.; are aligned. W h e n reamering t h e bush.

care must be taken t o ensure that t h e b o r e is parallel w i t h t h e big-end.
The final examination i s the fit of t h e main bearings o n t h e crank t i m i n g and driving
shafts. The bearings should be a t i g h t push fit ; a loose fitting bearing would tend
t o cause crankcase "rumble".

Assembly. Place the b o t t o m end of t h e flywheel i n the vice and position the timing
and driving side cranks t o t h e i r respecrive sides. Fit six NEW bolts and nuts (the
o l d parts should never be re-used), and fully tighten. Lock the nuts by centre
punching t h e periphery of t h e thread. Oil t h e journal bearings and t i t the respective
connecting rods. Before doing this, measure t h e overall length o f t h e connecting
r o d b o l t w i t h a micrometer; during the tightening process the b o l t w i l l be stretched.
Again the micrometer should be employed and when the bolt has stretched ,007"
(0.178 mm.)-.008" (0.203 mm.) it is then under correct tension and must not be
furrher tightened. Apply t h e nozzle o f an oil gun t o the timing shalt oilway and
pump oil through the crankshaft u n t i l it passes the connecting r o d bearings.

TBOLT LENGTH
PLUS .008"
(.2032 m/rn )
I

Fig. 17.
C H E C K I N G C O N N E C T I N G R O D B O L T STRETCH

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 ASSEMBLING T H E ENGINE
Before commencing this operation, clean down the w o r k bench and lay o u t the
engine units and parts in assembly order. Also check the nuts, bolts and washers.
etc., and have the gaskets and jointing compound available. When the engine is
being erected, each working surface must be liberally oiled. This can be done with
the use o f a clean paint brush o r an o i l can. The operator should not rub on the
o i l with his fingers, otherwise a certain amount of grit, etc., may be picked up during
the process.

Crankcase, D r i v i n g Side. Lubricate the main bearing and the camshaft bushes.

Crankshaft Assembly. Enter the driving side shaft into the ball-race in the drive
side crankcase. Ensure that the shaft i s fully located. (it i s advantageous t o allow
the shaft t o protrude vertically through a convenient hole in the bench and then the
outer face of the drive side crankcase w i l l take the weight on the flat surface of
the bench).

Camshaft. As both camshafts are identical, the mechanical breather can be fitted
i n t o either. First insert the spring and then the breather disc valve engaging the
projections into the camshaft slots. Enter this assembly into the inlet (rear of
engine) camshaft bush and test the engagement of the disc valve by depressing the
camshaft. Insert the other camshaft into the exhaust (front of engine) camshaft bush.

Crankcase T i m i n g Side. Lubricate the main bearing and camshaft bushes.

Lightly smear jointing compound on the inner mating face, then thread this half
over the crankshafts and camshafts. Bolt the t w o halves together, ensuring that
these meet without undue force being applied. If any difficulty i s encountered,
suspect the breather disc in the inlet camshaft being o u t of position. To remedy,
rotate the camshaft until the slot i s engaged. T w o internal screws are located in
the crankcase just above the camshaft ; be sure t o replace these.

A l i g n i n g t h e Crankcase Halves. The top of the crankcase must present a

perfectly flat face t o the cylinder base. There must be no step between the halves.
If a step i s evident, a sharp tap on the stud boss nearest t o the proud face, w i t h a
hide hammer, will bring it flush. Do not strike the base face itself. When the t w o
faces are properly mated, the bolts and screws should be fully tightened. Rotate
the crankshaft t o check for freedom of movement.

S u m p Filter. Fit the filter with a new joint washer t o the sump and over the
scavenge pipe, then the cover with a joint washer. Replace the four washers and
nuts but do not over-tighten, otherwise a broken stud may result, a trouble which
can be well avoided a t this stage.

Crankcase. Place the crankcase i n the vice as in the dismantling procedure

pour into it an egg-cupful of engine oil.

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Replacing Camwheels

Crankshaft Pinion. Fit the Woodruff key t o the engine shaft and assemble the
pinion (shoulder side t o the engine) t o the shaft. When the pinion i s correctly
positioned t o the key it must be fully located by tapping it onto the shaft with a
hollow punch. Do not fit the nut a t this stage.

Camwheels. To fit these, special tool Z89, Fig. 18, must be employed. First
wsemble the keys t o the camshafts, then screw on the centre tool (8). Slide the
camwheel over the tool and engage the keyway onto the key. Screw onto the
camwheel thread the outer tool (C), and onto (8) the left hand nut. Screw down
the nut until it contacts the outer tool, then, t o prevent the camshaft turning when
the nut i s screwed down, hold the end of the rod (8) with a suitable tool. When
the camwheel is fully located remove the tool and then fit the opposite camwheel.
D o not attempt t o punch the camwheels onto the shafts, as the key will be brought
into contact with the shaft bushes and may cause considerable damage. If the
operator cannot avail himself of the special tool, the camshafts and camwheels can
be assembled before the t w o halves of the crankcase are fitted together. Fit the
camshafts t o the timing side crankshaft half and then support them, when the cam-
wheels can be aligned t o the keys and punched into position.

Fig. 18. REPLACING THE CAMWHEEL

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 Timing Gear Markings

Arrows show

Fig. 19.

Position of T i m i n g Pinion in relation t o Camwheels and crankshaft Pinion

57

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Timing Diagrams

Valve Timing. Assemble the intermediate wheel i n t h e same manner shown o n

page 57, f o r y o u r particular model.

P i n i o n and C a m s h a f t N u t s . Replace t h e pinion n u t (R.H.), followed by t h e

exhaust camshaft n u t (L.H.), and finally t h e inlet camshaft n u t (L.H.), which has t h e
eccentric drive peg f o r the o i l pump. Ensure t h a t these nuts are well secured.

Oil Pump. Prime the pump w i t h o i l and fit to t h e crankcase w i t h a new joint
washer. Ensure that t h e washer is positioned correctly and n o t covering any
oilways.

Magneto. Assemble t h e magneto t o the crankcase and secure w i t h the three nuts.

M a g n e t o D r i v i n g Gear. Fit the gear t o t h e magneto shaft and loosely screw o n

the nut.

Distributor. See Ignition Timing, page 60.

Pistons. If replacing t h e old pistons, they must be fitted t o <heir appropriate

connecting rods. Lubricate the small end bushes and fit the pistons t o the rods.
Carefully insert t h e gudgeon pins until they abut against t h e circlips already i n t h e
piston boss. N o w fit the t w o remaining circlips and ensure that they are i n grooves. If
i n doubt regardin;? t h e serviceability of the circlips, always fit new ones, the cost o f

Fig. 20. TIMING DIAGRAMS

See pages 6 1 8 for checking figures.

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 1
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! Fitting Cylinder Block

which is extremely small when compared w i t h t h e damage which can result f r o m a

i badly fitting circlip. Lubricate t h e piston rings and skirts and t u r n the rings so
[hat the gaps d o n o t coincide. Place t h e piston ring clrp W E . . .' ? rings and allow
[he base o f t h e pistons t o rest on t h e forward t o p face o f t h e crankcase ( s e e . ~ i ~21).
.
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I c y l i n d e r Block. Greare the cylinder block base washer and fit t o the block.
Lubricate t h e tappet blocks and assemble t h e tappets. Place a rubber wedge between
tappet stems t o prevent them faUing i n t o the crankcase during assembly (see
II ~ i g 21).
. Liberally o i l t h e cylinder bores and then lower t h e block over the pistons
untti the piston rings enter the bores.
Support t h e block i n one hand and t u r n t h e crankshaft w i t h t h e other, forcing t h e
piston up i n t o t h e bores. As t h e pistons enter the bores, t h e piston ring clips w i l l
fall c l e a r and can be withdrawn over t h e connecting rods. Guide t h e block over
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the base studs and then remove t h e wedges from the tappets. Fit t h e eight holding
nuts and securely tighten. 1
e i

Fig. 21. F I T T I N G T H E C Y L I N D E R B A R R E L
( N o t e t h e c o r k w e d g e holding t h e t a p p e t s )

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Fitting Cylinder Block .

Ignition Timing. The timing of the engine can be carried out at this stage ifdesired.
The information given on poge 67 (Magneto) and poge 68 (Coil) applies when the cylinder
head is fitted. The marked timing stick should be discarded in favour of a depth gauge,
by which means an accurate measurement can be made directly on top of the piston.

I n l e t Push R o d s and Covers. Fit t h e rubber oil seal t o the tappet block and then
assemble t o t h e tappets and block t h e push rods and cover. The o i l drain pipes
should be assembled t o t h e cover tube before re-positioning t o the engine.

I n l e t M a n i f o l d . Assemble the inlet manifold t o the cylinder head w i t h the new

joint washers. In t h e case of t h e cast i r o n cylinder head, we recommend the use of
jointing compound w i t h t h e joint washers. The reason for this is that as the manifold
and cylinder head are manufactured from dissimilar metals, a slight amount of
"weave" takes place between t h e m which may cause the washer t o become dislodged.

C y l i n d e r H e a d . Grease the head gasket and fit to the cylinder block. Assemble
t h e head t o t h e block and lightly tighten down the four short bolts.

l n l e t R o c k e r Box. Grease the rocker box gaskets and upper push rod cover
washer and assemble to t h e rocker box. T u r n the engine over until both inlet
push rods are nearly level and then assemble the rocker box t o the cylinder head
and push r o d cover. Check that t h e gaskets have not been misplaced during
assembly and t h e n enter t h e t w o short rocker box holding bolts and firmly screw
down. Fit and t i g h t e n t h e t w o rocker boxes t o cylinder head nuts.

E x h a u s t R o c k e r B o x . Fit the push rods and covers (with drain pipes fitted) t o
t h e tappet block. T h e rocker b o x can then be assembled i n exactly t h e same manner
as t h e inlet r o c k e r box.

R o c k e r Oil Drain A d a p t o r s . Ensure that t h e oil drain adaptor bolts are clean
and i5en fit a copper washer between t h e o i l drain banjos. Insert t h e adaptor and
tighten (care should be exercised when tightening into an alloy head, TR5 & T i m ) .

C y l i n d e r H e a d H o i d i r ~ gBolts. Position the remaining four bolts (the torque

stay bolts to t h e rear) and screw down u n t i l a grip i s felt. A l l eight bolts should
n o w be evenly tightened b u t d o n o t use excessive force on the spanner. The actual
force required is 18 foot pounds ; i f tightened beyond this figure, distortion may
take place.

I g n i t i o n Timing. If th'e timing has been left until this stage is reached, reference
should be made t o page 67 (Magneto) o r page 68 (Coil).

T i m i n g Cover. Smear the joint face w i t h jointing compound and assemble the
cover t o t h e crankcase. Employ a well fitting screwdriver when tightening the
screws.

Oil Release V a l v e and I n d i c a t o r . Fit the ioint washer and screw the assembly
i n t o the t i m i n g cover.

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 Installing the Engine
A -
Tappet Adjustment. Adjust as described o n page 36 and replace t h e four
inspection caps.

C a r b u r e t t e r . This u n i t can be fitted now, o r after t h e engine has been installed i n

the frame. D o n o t forget t o replace the tufnol block o n t h e TR5 and T I 0 0 models.

S p a r k i n g Plugs. Replace and connect .H.T. leads.

II
Rear E n g i n e Plates. Loosely assemble the rear engine plates t o the crankcase o n
the rigid frame models.

I The engine is n o w ready for installation i n t o the frame.

I N S T A L L I N G THE ENGINE
( R I G I D F R A M E MODELS)

1 E N G I N E . W h e n the engine is ready for installation, ensure thzt :he rear lower
i stud is fitted i n position w i t h the n u u loosely assembled. Check that.the footrest
spindle i s positioning t h e distance piece between t h e rear engine plates. Place a
box under t h e frame and lift the engine i n t o position. Ensure that the rezr l o w e r
iI stud engages w i t h the rear engine plates.

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j F r o n t E n g i n e Plates. T i l t the engine back and swing t h e plates i n t o pcsition.

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I P,e-fit all studs and nuts t o both f r o n t and rear engine plates and attach the cover
plates o n t h e ST and 6T models.

D y n a m o . Replace t o the crankcase and secure w i t h the timing cover domed nut
and tighten the clip screw.

T o r q u e Stays. Replace t o engine bolts and secure w i t h t h e nuts.

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I T o r q u e C l i p (TR5). Remove the relevant engine bolt and then pass it through
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the clip back to t h e engine. Securely tighten.

O i l Pipes. Connect tt,e main o i l pipes from o i l tank t o engine and the i o c k e r
feed pipes t o rocker spindles.

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R.H. F o o t r e s t . Re-position the spindle and assemble the short u'lstance piece t o
the L.H. side, which t i t s between the engine plate and inner primary case.

P r i m a r y Chaincase I n n e r . Smear jointing compound around the crankcase

mating scri:ce and assemble t o t h e crankcase and over the shafts. Replace t h e
primary chaincase t o rear chainguard screw.

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Installing the Engine

Air Filter, Battery C a r r i e r and Battery. Fit the air cleaner t o the frame and
re-connect the rubber connector t o the carburetter. Fit the battery carrier over
the air filter and secure both t o the frame at the seat lug. Tighten up the nut.
Secure'the carrier t o the chaincase with the t w o bolts and tighten down. Place
the battery in the carrier and tighten the retaining strap. Re-connect the leads
and test the lights. (It is mast i m p o r a n t that the leads are n o t crossed. The
positive lead must be secured t o the earthlng point).

P r i m a r y Chaincase, Clutch, A l t e r n a t o r and Engine Sprocket. Re-fit as

described on page 90.

L.H. Footrest. Assemble t o spindle and tighten both L.H. and R.H. spindle nu-.

F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Fit t o the spindles and replace the securing nut.

C o n t r o l Cables. Re-connect the respective cables t o the handlebar and f a m e

fittings.

Exhaust System. Fit t o engine and frame and ensure that ail bolts a r e fully
tightened.

P e t r o l Tank. Replace the tank and secure with the bolts and rubber pads. Con-
nect the petrol pipes. The bolts should be locked by wiring the t w o rear and the
t w o front together.

Twinseat o r Saddle. Fir i n position ; replace and tighten the front and r e a r
connection bolts.

Oil Tank. REPLENISH.

INSTALLING T H E ENGINE
( S W I N G I N G ARM F R A M E MODELS)

Engine. W h ~ then engine has been prepared for instalLation, ensure that the rear
lower stud is fitted in position with the nuts loosely assembled. Check that the
footrest spindle i s positioning the distance piece between the rear engine plate.
N o w lift the engine inro the frame and engage the rear lower stud into the rear
engine plates. A box placed under the engine will retain it in this position. When
the stud is engaged, f i t the remaining t w o studs and loosely assemble the nuts and
washers.

F r o n t Engine Plates. Replace the dynamo clip if not already in position. Re-fit
the front engine plates and loosely replace the lower studs and nuts.

Dynamo. Insert the dynamo through the engine plate and secure the stud t o the
timing cover with the domed nut and tighten the clip screws. Connect up the
electrical terminal.

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 Installing the Engine 1
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~ ~ E n g~i n e Pnl a t e st Cover. Position o v e r t h e studs and insert t h e t w o remaining
;
studs and secure w i t h t h e i r respective nuts. A t this stage, tighten b o t h rear and
front engine plate stud nuts.

T o r q u e Stays. Fit t h e stays t o t h e engine bolts and tighten t h e b o l t nuts and

frame lug bolt.

O i l Pipes. Connect t h e main o i l pipes f r o m o i l tank to crankcase and t h e rocker

pipes t o t h e rocker spindles.

R.H. F o o t r e s t . Loosely assemble t o spindle.

P r i m a r y Chaincase, A l t e r n a t o r , C l u t c h and E n g i n e S p r o c k e t . Fit t h e short

distance piece over the footrest spindie and assemble the primary chaincase inner.
Fit the primary chaincase outer, clutch and engine sprocket as described o n page 90.

L.H. F o o t r e s t . Assemble t o spindle and tighten both L.H. and R.H. spindle nuts.

F c o t b r a k e Pedal. Fit t o the spindle and replace the spring washer, plain washer
and finally secure w i t h the nut. Connect the operating r o d t o pedal and secure
w i t h t h e plain washer and split-pin. Ensure that t h e split-pin i s locked. Engage
the stop lamp switch spring t o t h e pedal fixing.

C o n t r o l Cables. Re-connect the respective cables t o handlebar and frame fittings.

E x h a u s t System. Fit t o engine and frame the exhaust pipe and silencer assemblies
making sure that the connecting bolts, etc., are fully tightened.

P e t r o l Tank. Replace the tank and secure w i t h the four bolts and eight rubber
buffer pads. Connect the petrol pipes. The bolts should be locked by w i r i n g t h e
t w o rear and t h e t w o front together.

Twinseat. Fit i n position and replace and tighten t h e f r o n t and rear fixing bolts.

Oil Tahk. REPLENISH.

NOTE
W h e n t h e motorcycle has covered the f i r s t 250 mi!es after i t s
overhaul, it is wise t o check a l l nuts and bolts t o ensure that they
have n o t become loose due t o t h e engine "bedding down".

ClassicBike.biz
 T I M I N G THE E N G I N E

T h e camwheels, t i m i n g pinion and intermediate wheel which mesh together are

suitably marked ; w h e n these marks coincide w i t h each other, the valve timing i s
correct. Fig. 19 clearly illustrates t h e timing' for the respective models.

N O T E : W h e n t h e engine crankshaft has been rotated the marks o n the gears will not
coincide due t o t h e uneven number of gear teeth until t h e crankshaft has been
t u r n e d a considerable number of times. The timing, of course, is n o t aKected.

TIM) F I T T E D WITH R A C I N G CAMS E.3134

T h e marking o n t h e camwheels i s n o t sufficiently accurate f o r timing the vaive
operation f o r racing purposes. It w i l l be noted that the carnwheel hrs three keyways
provided t o enable t h e operator t o obtain accuracy of approximately plus o r minus
2 i degrees.
The following valve timing instructions are given assuming that t h e engine has been
fitted w i t h racing cams and i s now installed i n the vice (Fig. 9, page 42) w i t h the
rocker boxes, t i m i n g gears and timing cover s t i l l t o be fitted.

E x h a u s t R o c k e r B o x . Assemble the exhaust rocker box and the timing side push
r o d t o the cylinder head. Fit the holding bolts and nuts and tighten down.

T a p p e t A d j u s t m e n t . Ensure that the tappet i s o n the base of the cam and then
adjust t h e rocker p i n t o give 0.020" (0.50 mm.) clearance between the pin and the
vaive tip.

A t a l a t e r stage, t o c h e c k t h e o p e n i n g o f t h e v a l v e a D.T.I.( d i a l t e s t i n d i c a t o r )
s h o u l d b e fixed t o t h e engine. I f t h e o p e r a t o r i s n o t in possession o f such a n
i n s t r u m e n t t h e c l e a r a n c e g i v e n a b o v e s h o u l d b e increased t o 0.025"(0.60 rnrn.)
w h e n checking.

c h e c k i n g T.D.C. Fit a degree timing disc t o the drive side engine mainshaft and
fix a pointer i n any convenient location. T u r n the crankshaft until the pistons are at
T.D.C., then set the disc and pointer t o read 0 degrees and clamp up firmly. To
ensure that t h e pistons are at t r u e T.D.C.. t u r n the crankshaft backwards until the
piston is say lv (4 cms.) down the stroke. N o t e the reading on the disc. N o w t u r n
t h e crankshaft forward until the pistons are again If" (4 cms.) down the stroke. The
disc reading should be the same. If n o t correct, re-adjust the disc o r pointer. Particular
care should be exercised t o ensure accurate T.D.C. setting.

E X H A U S T CAMSHAFT T l M l N G
S e t t i n g t h e Crankshaft. Turn the crankshaft forward until the disc reading is
55 degrees before B.D.C.

S e t t i n g t h e E x h a u s t Camshaft. Rotate the camshaft "CLOCKWISE" until all

play between t h e rocker adjuster pin and v2lve t i p is taken up.

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 Tim~ngthe Engine

F i t t i n g t h e C a m w h e e l . First fit the intermediate wheel. It is now necessary t o

fit [he camwheel t o t h e shaft w i t h o u t disturbing it o r the intermediate wheel. This
is made possible by aligning one of the three keyways w i t h t h e camshaft key and t h e
i n line w i t h t h e teeth o n the intermediate wheel. W h e n aligned press o n
[he camwheel (See Fig. 18).

c h e c k i n g t h e V a l v e Closing. Turn the crankshaft backwards until the rocker

adjuster clearance i s nil which should give the point of closing of the valve as 34
degrees after T.D.C.

~h~ opening and closing of the valve can be more accurately determined by clamping
a D.T.I. i n a convenient position and allowing the plunger button t o rest o n the valve
Any movement of the valve is then immediately seen o n the clock face.
Another method is t o use a feeler gauge. First re-set the rocker adjuster t o give a
0.025" (0.60 mm.) clearance. The "nip" o n the valve can n o w be felt by inserting
a 0.005" (0.10 mm.) feeler.

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j It should be appreciated that due t o toleranceh i n manufacture, wear, etc., it may n o t
be possible t o obtain the exact degree figures quoted. Points of opening and closing
should be w i t h i n 3 degrees either way, i f the e r r o r i s more, the camwheel must be
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extracted and one of the remaining t w o keyways tried. D o n o t forget t o mark the
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I keyway already tried w i t h an indelible pencil t o prevent it being accidentally t r i e d
again.

INLET CAMSHAFT TIMING

Repeat the exhaust procedure by fitting the inlet rocker box, timing side push r o d
and adjusting the clearance between rocker adjuster and valve t o give 0.020"
(0.50 mm.).

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S e t t i n g t h e C r a n k s h a f t , Turn the crankshaft backwards u n t ~ the
closes and the d ~ s creadlng IS 55 degrees after B.D.C.
i exhaust valve

S e t t i n g t h e I n l e t C a m s h a f t . Rotate the camshaft "ANTI-CLOCKWISE" after all

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I play between the rocker adjuster pin and valve t i p i s taken u p (valve closing).
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F i t t i n g t h e Carnwheel. Assemble i n the same manner as i n the exhaust camshaft
procedure.

I C h e c k i n g V a l v e O p e n i n g . Rotate the engine forward until there i s n o play

I

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between the rocker adjuster and valve t i p when the point o f opening should be
approximately 34 degrees beiore T.D.C. (The exhaust valve is now open).

I !
As a final check, the drive side cylinder push rods may be fitted and the t ~ m i n gof the
drive side cylinder checked. If any discrepancy (up t o 4 degrees) i s found between
the t w o cylinders, it s h w l d be equalised. T o do this, it w i l l be necessary t o remove
1I iI the camwheel and re-select another keyway. When the timing has been corrected,
i i insert the new figures i n t h e "Record Table" overleaf, thereby obviating this last
1' operation f o r subsequent assemblies.
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Timing the Engine

............INLET VALVE ... ... ... ... ...

OPENS ... B.T.D.C.

......,..... INLET VALVECLOSES ... ... ... ... ... ... A.B.D.C.

............ EXHAUST VALVE OPENS ... ... ... ... ... B.B.D.C.

............ EXHAUST VALVE CLOSES ... ... ... ... ... A.T.D.C.

TAPPETS SET A T 0.020" (0.50 mm.)

Remove t h e timing disc and pointer. Detach the rocker boxes and push rods for
final assernbiy (See page 551.

TAPPET ADJUSTMENT
W h e n the rocker boxes a n d p u s h rods are finally assembled, RE-ADJUST THE
TAPPET CLEARANCE T O :-

INLET ... ... 0.002" (0.05 mrn.)

EXHAUST ... ... 0.004" (0.10 mrn.)

I G N I T I O N T I M I N G (RACING)

I n order t o ensure accuracy, a degree timing disc should be employed when timing
the ignition for a c i n g purposes. Fit the disc t o the engine shaft and find the true
T.D.C., then clip the pointer t o indicate ZERO degrees. Set the magneto w i t h the
contact points just breaking and the cam ring i n the fully advanced position ; t u r n
the crankshaft t o give the following readings on the compression stroke :

For Petrol o r Petrol-Benzole ... ... ... ... ... 42' before T.D.C.
*For Methanol o r other alcohol fuels ... ... ... ... 36" before T.D.C.

'If this fuel is used for the TIW the alloy cylinder block MUST be replaced by o cost-iron
type.

Accuracy o f the ignition timing can be finally checked by running the engine at full
throttle and moving t h e ignition lever slowly from the fully advanced position and
noting the increase o r decrease in R.P.M.

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 I G N I T I O N T I M I N G (MAGNET

(Assumingthat the magneto is in position and the timing cover i s removed).

Magneto Wheel. Unscrew the securing nut and screw i n t o the gear centre the
w,thdrawal tool DA50/1 which is supplied with the toolkit. When the t o o l is i n
position, tighten the centre bolt and the gear will be withdrawn from the shaft.
set the contact breaker points t o ,012 ins. fully open.
Sparking Plugs. Remove both plugs.

p i s t o n Positioning. Unscllew the rocker inspection cap. Engage TOP gear and
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then rotate the rear wheei in the correct direction for forward travel, watching the
valve operation i n the L.H. (DRIVE SIDE) cylinder. When the INLET valve closes,
continue gently t o rotate the rear wheel until the piston reaches the t o p of the
rrroke (this is known as "TOP DEAD CENTREw-T.D.C.). The correct piston
position can be felt with the timing stick by rocking the r e a r wheei t o and fro. W h e n
the T.D.C. has been found, mark the lowest part of the timing stick which is visible
at'eye level and remove the stick; make a further mark (&"or (8 mm. o r 9.5 mm.)
as the case may be) above the f i r s t mark. N o w re-insert the timing stick i n t o the
cylinder and rotate the rear wheel backwards until the piston has fallen about 1"
(2.5 cms.), then reverse the rotation and slowly bring the piston up t o the desired
mark on the timing stick. This procedure eliminates any e r r o r due t o backlash in the
tim~nggears.

CAM IN FULLY ADVANCED POSlTiON

Fig. 22. M A G N E T O IN T I M I N G P O S I T I O N

67

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Cdii I g n r t i o ~Timing
~

Posiiio-.--
,,;,,g t h e C o - t a c t P r e a k c r . P,emove the contact breaker co?er and
advance the manual controi lever o n the handlebar (close anti-clockwise t o advance).
Rotate t h e contact breaker u n t i l the points are i n t h e upper position and just breaking
(See Fig. 22). I n o r d e r t o ascertain accurately t h e exact point o f opening, slip a
0.0015" (0.04 mm.) feeler gauge o r a piece of tissue paper between the points.
Rotate t h e contact breaker and t h e gauge w i l l be released immediately the points
start t o open.
M a g n e t o Gear. Carefully retain t h e contact breaker i n the set position and fit
t h e gear t o t h e magneto shaft (ensure that t h e shaft and gear bore i s free from oil).
Tap t h e gear gently t o engage the taper and fit and secure the washer and nut.
A u t o m a t i c Timing D e v i c e (A.T.D.). ST and 6T machines w i t h magneto ignition
are fitted w i t h an automatic timing device. This i s removed by unscrewing the central
b o l t which has a self-extracting action. W h e n replacing the u n i t hold the central
portion and t w i s t t h e gear against the spring. Use a pencil as a wedge t o hold it i n
this position while fitting the unit t o the shaft.
F i n a l O p e r a t i o n . Re-check the timing and i f correct, replace the timing cover.
contact breaker cover, sparking plugs, H.T. lead (See Fin. 22) and t h e four rocker
inspection caps.
S p a r k i n g P l u g Leads. If the timing operation has been carried o u t correctly,
join t h e plug leads as follows:-
The lead nearest the engine t o the R.H. cylinder (Timing side).
The opposite lead t o the L.H. cylinder (Drive side).

I G N I T I O N T I M I N G (COIL)
REPLACING T H E DISTRIBUTOR A N D DRIVING P I N I O N
R e p l a c i n g t h e D i s t r i b u t o r , A d a p t o r a n d Coil. Assemble the distributor
complete w i t h t h e clamping lever t o the adaptor and tighten t h e retaining bolt.
F I t~h e adaptor t o t h e crankcase w i t h t h e clamping nut and bolt towards r h e crankcase
and w i t h the slotted head pointing downwards. Fit the lower retaining nut but d o
n o t tighten at this stage.
Clamp the coil o n t o t h e bracket and ensure that the t w o bolts are tight. Assemble
the coil and bracket o n t o the upper t w o distributor adaptor studs and fit the re-
maining nuts. Tighten up all three retaining nuts. The distributor clamp nut and
b o l t should be loose enough t o allow t h e distributor t o rotate f o r final positioning.
R e p l a c i n g t h e D i s t r i b u t o r D r i v e . The position of the distributor should be
adjusted t o give t h e easiest position f o r timing the ignition, and subsequent main-
tenance. Rotate t h e distributor body until the contact breaker points are approxi-
mately at 11 o'clock when looking from the left hand of the machine. Tighten t h e
lever clamping b o l t i n this position. If a long screwdriver i s held against the slotted
head of the clamping bolt from the underside of the engine, the n u t can be tightened
more easily. W i t h R.H. cylinder (Timing Side) at T.D.C. o n compression stroke
(both valves closed) rotate the r o t o r arm clockwise u n t i l the contact breaker points
are just beginning t o open, when the r o t o r arm is pointing t o the rear of the machine.
Holding the r o t o r arm i n this position, slide the thrust washer, followed by the
drive pinion, o n t o t h e distributor shaft so that the hole i n the pinion boss lines up

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 I Distributor

2 with the hole i n t h e distributor shaft. Mesh the pinion i n t o the nearest position o n
I 11 mating pinion and slide the locking pin through t h e wheel and shaft, retaining it
I
in position by placing t h e circlip i n t h e groove i n t h e pinion boss. The distributor
i is now i n t h e best position for final timing and adjustment o f the contact breaker

I points.

] D ~ S T R I B U T ~COVER
R I
Fig. 23. D I S T R I B U T O R IN T I M I N G P O S I T I O N
I
! TIMING
S e t t i n g t h e C o n t a c t B r e a k e r Points. Slacken the distributor clamp bolt and
i rotate t h e distributor slowly until the contact breaker heel is on the peak of the
cam lobe, when t h e point should be separated. T o adjust the points, slacken off
the t w o screws securing the fixed contact plate and move ti.-, ;late t o give a 0.014-
0.016" (0.36 m m . - 0 . 4 mm.) gap between t h e contact points. Tighten u p the screws
and re-check t h e gap adjustment.

P i s t o n Positioning. Unscrew the rocker inspection caps. Engage TOP gear and
I then rctate t h e rear wheel i n the correct direction for forward travel, watching t h e
valve operation i n the R.H. ( T ~ m ~ nSide)
g cylinder. W h e n the INLET valve closes
i

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Coil ignition Timing

continue gently t o rotate t h e wheel u n t i l t h e ptston reaches the t o p of the stroke

(this is k n o w n as T O P D E A D CENTRE"-T.D.C.). The correct piston position
can be felt w i t h t h e t i m i n g stick by rocking the rear wheel t o and fro. W h e n
t h e t r u e T.D.C. has been found, t h e 1954 Model 6T should be timed w i t h the piston
in this position, whereas f o r the Model ST and 1955 6T, mark the lowest part of the
t i m i n g stick which is visible at eye level and remove the stick; make a further mark
&" (0.80 mm.) above the first mark. N o w re-insert t h e timing stick i n t o the cylinder
and rotate t h e rear wheel backwards u n t i l t h e piston has fallen about $" (6 mm.)
t h e n reverse t h e r o t a t i o n and slowly b r i n g t h e piston u p t o the desired mark o n the
t i m i n g stick. This procedure ellminates any e r r o r due t o backlash i n the timing gears.

C o r r e c t P o s i t i o n i n g of t h e D i s t r i b u t o r . Stand over the right hand side of the

machine and place t h e left hand under t h e distributor, holding it i n such a manner
t h a t it can be freely turned t o the left o r right. N o w lean across the saddle or
twinseat and rotate the distributor housing slightly (contact breaker points nearly
vertical) until t h e points just visibly open. Retaining the distributor i n position
tighten u p t h e clamp b o l t and make a further check.

C h e c k t h e Timing. Check the setting b y placing a 0.0015'' (.W mm.) feeler gauge
( o r i f n o t available a cigarette paper or tissue paper) between the points. Rotate
t h e r o t o r a r m against the springs o n t h e fuily advanced position when the feeler
gauge should just be released. Finally check that the lever clamp bolt i s fully
tightened. A long screwdriver should be held against the slotted head of t h e
clamping bolt f r o m the underside of t h e engine t o prevent it from rotation when the
n u t is being tightened.

S p a r k i n g P l u g Leads. If the timing operation has been carried out correctly, join
t h e plug leads as fo1iows:-
The lead nearest to t h e engine t h e L.H. cylinder (Drive Side).
The opposite lead t o the R.H. cylinder (Timing Side).

D i s t r i b u t o r P r o t e c t i v e Cover. Fit t h e P.V.C. sheet over the distributor w i t h

cut-away hole o n t h e L.H. (drive side) o f t h e engine. Fit the H.T. leads from the
distributor cap i n t o t h e cut-away.

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1 GEARBOX

The gearbox employed has four speeds and is very robustly constructed. It w i l l
require very little attention, and, if its o i l change intervals are strictly adhered t o
and the security of i t s clamping b o l a occasionally checked, the life of the gearbox
w i l l be greatly prolonged.

For the rider who wishes t o use his machine i n one o r more of the various com-
petitions or for road racing, a set of gears can be made available t o suit the particular
conditions. To change from STANDARD t o W I D E ratio, four gears are required,
namely-mainshaft high, mainshaft second, layshaft high and layshaft second. T h e
speedometer driven gears will also have t o be ctianged t o correct the speedom'eter
t o gearbox ratio. To fit CLOSE ratio gears a complete set is required and as no
provision is made for the speedometer gears, a sealing plug i s supplied. A tacho-
/
I
meter driven off the exhaust a m gear is employed for the purpose of checking the
engine revolutions when close ratio gears are fitted. On page 207 an "Engine
Revolution" and "Gear Ratio" chart w i l l be found which will assist the rider in
choosing a suitable combination of gears.

I Briefly, the gearbox operates in the following manner:

Gear selections are made by depressing o r raising the pedal. The pedal is attached
t o the plunger quadrant which is spring loaded o n either side of its axis. After the
pedal has been operated, it will automatimlly return t o the central position for the
next selection. When the pedal i s depresed the upper quadrant plunger moves
under the guide plate, whereas the lower one, being released, connects with the
gear operating quadrant which i s geared t o the camplate.

The camplate is rotated by the gear quadrant, the movement being arrested by a
spring loaded plunger which i s sprung into a notch in the camplate periphery. As
the camplate rotates, the gear selector forks which are connected, move along their
spindle and in turn shift the gears. Fig. 24 shows clearly all the working parts and
before attempting t o dismantle the gearbox, the illustration should be carefully
studied.

F A U L T Y GEAR S E L E C T I O N

A badly adjusted clutch is one of the chief causes of faulty gear selection. Always
ensure that the clutch plates spin true and that the correct grade of oil is employed
(See page 200 for further information).
Gearchange pedal springs may be fatigued o r broken, thus preventing the pedal from
centralizing itself. Remedy+hange both springs.

Quadrant Plunger Sticking. T o remedy, remove the plunger and polish the
bearing surface with smooth emery until the plunger will move freelj in i t s housing.
It is a good plan t o renew the plunger springs i f this fault occurs.
I
I C a m p l a t e Plunger Sticking. To remedy, remove the domed nut from.the
bottom of the gearbox casing and apply the same remedy as @ r Quadrant Plungers.
Slackness of the nuts securing the kickstarter assembly o r clutch centre.
As both these parts are attached t o the gearbox mainshaft, either becoming loose
would allow the mainshaft t o h a t and cause a faulty selection. Remedy--obvioirs.

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Gearbox

Fig. 24. GEARBOX ( C O M P O N E N T PARTS)

ClassicBike.biz
 I N D E X T O FIG. 24. G E A R B O X ( C O M P O N E N T PARTS)
Index
-
No.
1 Casing.
Description.
2 Dowel, inner cover.
3 Stud.
4 Nut.
5 Washer.
6 Cover, gearbox outer.
7 Cover, gearbox inner;
8 Stud.
9 Nut.
Washer.
Stop, kickstarter quadrant.
Cap, o i l filler.
Washer.
Plug, o i l level and drain.
Washer.
Mainshaft and low gear.
Bush.
Key.
Gear. rnainshaft hinh.
~ u s h rnainshaft
; high gear.
Gear, mainshaft third.
Gear, mainshaft second.
Layshaft w i t h high gear.
Gear, layshaft third.
Gear, layshaft second.
Gear, layshaft low.
Bush, layshaft low gear.
Bearing, high gear.
Oil seal.
Circlip.
Bearina, rnainshaft.
circlip:.
Bush, layoct.
Peg, layshaft bush.
Disc, layshaft bush.
Bush, gear selector camplate.
Bush, gearchange spindle
Inner.
Bush, gearchange spindle
outer.
Bush, kickstart outer.
Bush, speedo drive.
Washer.
Quadrant, gear operating.
Spindle, gear operating
quadrant.
Camplate, gear control.
Roller, gear control carn-
plate.
Plunger, gear control cam-
plate.
ClassicBike.biz
I Index
No.
47
Description.
Bush, plunger.
48 Spring. plunger.
49 Fork, gear selector rnain-
shaft.
50 Fork, gear selector layshaft.
51 Rod, gear selector fork.
52 Plate, gearchange guide.
53 Stud.
Nut.
Washer.
Plunger assy. gear quadrant.
Plunger, gear quadrant.
Spring, plunger.
Pedal, gearchange.
Set screw.
Rubber.
Spring, pedal return.
Finger, gear indicator.
Nut.
Washer.
Quadrant, gear indicator.
Pin, quadrant fixing.
Crank, kickstarter.
Rubber, kickstarter crank.
Cotter pin, w i t h nut and
washer.
Spring, crank return.
Peg, spring anchor.
Quadrant, kickstarter.
Shaft, kickstarter axle.
Pinion, kickstarter.
Ratchet, kickstarter.
Sleeve and spring, pinion.
Nut, kickstarter ratchet.
Lockwasher.
Washer, plain.
Sprocket, gearbox.
N u t , sprocket locking.
Lever, clutch operating.
A r m , clutch operating.
Peg, clutch operating lever.
Washer.
Pin, clutch lever adjusting.
Locknut.
Rod, clutch operating.
Pinion, speedo drive.
Peg, pinion t o layshaft.
Gear, speedo drive.
Washer, gear thrust.
 REMOVING T H E G E A R B O X FROM T H E FRAME
(RIGID FRAME w O D E i S j

B a t t e r y C a r r i e r a n d A i r C l e a n e r Assembly. Disconnect t h e cable and remove

t h e battery. Remove t h e t w o base screws and strap nut and remove the battery
carrier, together w i t h t h e air cleaner.

E x h a u s t S y s t e m . Unscrew the front connections and silencer hanger bolts and

remove t h e t w o exhaust pipes and silencers complete.

F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Unscrew the spindle nut and slide the pedal off the spindle.

Footrests. Remove the left hand footrest securing nut and remove the left hand
footrest. W i t h d r a w the other footrest complete w i t h rod. D o nor lose the
distance piece between the chaincase and the engine plate.

P r i m a r y Chaincase O u t e r C o v e r . Disconnect the three leads from the stator,

underneath t h e saddle. Remove the screws connecting the outer cover t o the
inner. Place a tray under the chaincase t o catch the oil and remove the outer cover,
pulling t h e stator lead through the inner cover.

E n g i n e S p r o c k e t a n d R o t o r . Bend back the locking tab on the r o t o r retaining

washer and loosen the retaining nut.

C l u t c h . Remove as indicated on page 83 when the clutch housing is free on the

shaft. Unscrew the n u t on the engine shaft and remove the clutch, engine sprocket,
r o t o r and primary chain together. Remove the Woodruff key from the gearbox
mainshaft.

P r i m a r y Chaincase I n n e r Cover. Unscrew the nut and bolt connecting the rear
chain guard .to the inner cover. Unscrew t h e three screws connecting the inner
cover t o the crankcase and remove the inner cover.

R e a r Chain. Take o u t the spring link and remove the r e a r chain from the gearbox
sprocket.

C l u t c h Cable. Disconnect the cable nipple from the gearbox clutch lever and
completely unscrew the adjuster f r o m the inner cover, t o release the cable.

S p e e d o m e t e r Cable. Unscrew the cable nut at the gearbox end and withdraw
the cable.

P r i m a r y Chain Adjuster. Unscrew the n u t which secures the adjuster t o the

frame.

Gearbox C l a m p Bolt. Remove the clamp bolt nut and tap the bolt through the
frame lug.

ClassicBike.biz
 Removing Gearbox

G e a r b o x P i v o t B o l t . Unscrew t h e b o l t from the frame. Remove t h e gearbox

f r o m t h e right hand side of the frame complete w i t h the t w o clamp +!~-.-1. ::hi+
should be removed afterwards.

REMOVING T H E G E A R B O X F R O M T H E FRAME
(TR5)

The removal procedure for the TR5 model i s exactly the same as f o r t h e 5T and 67
w i t h t h e following exceptions :-

E x h a u s t Systems. Slacken off the branch pipe clip. Unscrew the front connection
and silencer hanger bolt and remove t h e exhaust system complete.

A l t e r n a t o r Assembly. This assembly is not titted t o t h e TR5 Model, and all

reference t o electrical equipment can be disregarded when dealing w i t h the gearbox
o n this model.

REMOVING T H E GEARBOX F R O M T H E FRAME

(SWINGING A R M FRAME MODELS)

E x h a u s t System. Remove both exhaust pipe and silencer assemblies by slackening

the finned clip bolts, the bracket t o frame bolts and the silencer bolts when t h e
assembly can be eased off the exhaust stubs.

Footrests. Remove the left hand footrest ; withdraw the right hand footrest and
spindle as an assembly. Take care not t o lose the distance piece between the primary
chaincase and the left hand rear engine plate, and the distance piece between t h e
engine plates.

F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Take out the split pin securing the operating rod t o pedal,
unscrew the pedal spindle nut when the pedal can be withdrawn.

P r i m a r y . Chaincase--Clutch a n d Engine Sprocket. Remove these parts as

II
described o n page 83.

C l u t c h Cable. Disconnect the cable nipple at t h e gearbox end, unscrew the cable
adjuster and detach the cable from the gearbox inner cover lug.

S p e e d o m e t e r Cable. Unscrew the attachment nut a t the gearbox when t h e

cable can be withdrawn.

O i l T a n k A i r C l e a n e r U n i t . Disconnect the o i l pipe block a t the engine and plug

the feed hole i n the block t o prevent loss of oil. Remove the oil tank's three fixings
I
and withdraw oil tank and air cleaner from the frame.

B a t t e r y C a r r i e r t o Engine P l a t e B o l t . Remove.
, I
ClassicBike.biz
Drsrnontling Gearbox

R e a r Engine P l a t e Studs. Slacken t h e nuts o n the f r o n t l o w e r studs and remove

all other nuts f r o m the right hand engine plate. (The gearbox adjuster can be left
i n position). Remove the studs by drifting w i t h an aluminium rod. Remove t h e
cover plate, slacken the pivot bolt and ease the gearbox back, when both plates can
be removed.

P i v o t B o l t . Remove the nut and withdraw t h e pivot bolt. The gearbox can n o w
be taken o u t o f the frame.

D I S M A N T L I N G THE G E A R B O X

Before attempting t o dismantle the gearbox, wash i t thoroughly t o remove dirt, o i l

and grease, etc. Drain the oil by removing the plug i n the rear of the casing. (Note-
on the Models equipped with the swinging arm rear suspension, the drain plug i s
placed at t h e bottom front of the casing). Place the gearbox i n the vice, w i t h t h e
pivot lug gripped between the jaws.

G e a r b o x O u t e r Cover. Unscrew the five screws and three nuts holding t h e

outer cover t o the inner cover and tap the ioint gently w i t h a hide hammer, t o
break the jointing compound seal. G r i p the gearchange lever and kickstarter crank
and withdraw the cover from the gearbox.

G e a r b o x I n n e r Cover. Bend back the tab o n the kickstarter ratchet and pinion
lockwasher and, placing a block between the gearbox sprocket and the vice t o prevent
the sprocket revolving, undo the securing nut. W i t h d r a w t h e ratchet and pinion
assembly complete. Remove the four screws securing the inner cover t o the shell.
Tap t o break the joint seal and remove the cover. Care should be taken t o prevent
the contents of the gearbox from coming away w i t h the inner cover.

G e a r Cluster. Remove the gear selector fork rod. Slide t h e mainshaft from t h e
case until the clutch end comes free from the high gear. Taking care n o t t o lose the
rollers from the selector forks, remove the gear clusters f r o m the gearbox i n one
assembly. The only gear remaining i s the high gear which i s held i n position by t h e
sprocket n u t (See page 78).

The gearbox i s now completely broken down into units and it i s proposed t o deal
w i t h these units separately i n such a way that the fitter can dismantle, averhaul and
re-assemble the major unit assemblies.

By doing t h e w o r k i n this manner t h e assembly of the gearbox i s simplified i n that

there i s no sub-assembly t o bother about while concentrating o n the correct assembly
of the complete unit.

ClassicBike.biz
 D I S M A N T L I N G . PREPARATION A N D ASSEMBLY O F
UNITS

G E A R B O X OUTER COVER

K i c k s t a r t Assembly. Remove t h e kickstarter crank c o t t e r pin and slide t h e

pedal off the shaft. W i t h d r a w the quadrant and spring assembly from the bush.
Check t h e quadrant for chipped teeth and spindle wear, and t h e spring f o r fatigue
cracks espec~ally at the centre. Change i f necessary. Replace the assembly i n
exactly the opposlte way, making sure that the centre o f t h e spring re-engages w i t h
the same spline on the quadrant spindle shaft (See Fig. 25).

Fig. 25.
KICKSTARTER R E T U R N
SPRING AND S P I N D L E
. A r r o w shows centre of spring
engaging i n correct spline.

I
1 C l u t c h O p e r a t i n g Lever. If it is necessary t o remove this lever the kickstarter
i assembly must be removed (see paragraph above) and t h e kickstarter bush pressed
i n sufficiently t o allow the lever t o be withdrawn past it after removal of the lever
1
i a r m peg screw. The peg screw should be changed i f t h e peg shows any sign of
wear. Re-assemble i n the reverse way.

Geacchange Mechanism. Provided that this mechanism has been working satir-
factorily, there i s no need t o disturb it. If, however, it should 'become necessary,
release t h e quadrant plungers and springs by raising and depressing the gearchange
pedal. Remove the four nuts on the guide plate and slide the plate off the studs.
Slacken the gearchange pedal set screw and slide the pedal off the splined shaft.
W i t h d r a w the plunger quadrant f r o m its busfi. Replace the springs if they have
become rusty due t o condensation, examine the guide plate f o r wear and relieve
any high spots w i t h fine emery cloth.

1 Replace the guide plate if t h e knife edges are worn. If it is necessary t o remove
any of t h e bushes, the casing should be heated before they are pressed out. Re-
assemble the mechanism i n the opposite way t o dismantling.
I

ClassicBike.biz
Dismantling Gearbox

G E A R B O X I N N E R COVER
G e a r O p e r a t i n g Q u a d m t . This quadrant can be inspected for wear on the
teeth while still i n position. The freedom of the spindle can also be checked. It is,
therefore, unnecessary t o remove the quadrant unless it requires changing. To do
this, remove the split-pin and withdraw the spindle. Replace it in the opposite way.
using a new split pin.

Bearing. Remove the retaining circlip and press the bearing out ; thoroughly
degrease it and dry with compressed air i f possible. Check for roughness, pitting,
indentation and end float ; make sure that the inner race is a tight push fit on the
mainshaft. When replacing, heat the c x i n g and then press the bearing into position.
Re-fit the circlip, ensuring correct engagement in the groove. Liberally oil the
bearing.

Speedometer Drive. Using a soft metal drift against the spindle gear, gently tap
the drive gear and bush out of its housing. Examine the gear for worn teeth and
check the fit in the bush. To replace, f i t the thrust washer over the gear spindle
and thread the spindle into the bush. Fit the assembly into the cover, gear first.
Fit the oil seal into the annular groove in the bush and press the bush into position
until the keyway in the bush lines up w i t h the screw hole.

K i c k s t a r t e r Ratchet and Pinion. This assembly has already been removed t o

take off the inner cover. The pinion and ratchet should be checked for chipped or
broken teeth and the spring for fatigue. Replace after the inner cover i s back in place.

GEAR CLUSTER
Gwrs. Examine all the gears thoroughly for chipped, fractured o r worn teeth.
Check the internal splines and bushes. making sure that the splines are free on their
respective shah, with no tendency to bind, and the bush in the iayshaft low gear i s
not worn.

GEARgOX CASING
Carnplata and Plunger Assembly. Unscrew the acorn nut a t the base of the
main casing and withdraw the camplate plunger and spring. Remove the camplate
from the bush. Make sure that the plunger works freely in i t s housing. Check
the spring for fatigue. Examine the camplate carefully for signs of wear in the roller
tracks at such wear will make gear selection difficult and damage t o the gears may
result. Change the amplate i f a worn track i s evident. To replace, tit the camplate
spindle intothe bush and screw the plunger assembly (pointed end engaging the cam)
into the plunger housing. Secure the camplate in the TOP (4th) gear positions
(See Fig. 26).

Chain Sprocket. Place a smail aluminium block between a sprocket tooth and
the vice, t o stop the sprocket rotating, and unscrew the sprocket nut. I t may be
necessary t o tap the end of the spanner with a hammer t o free the nut. Ease away
the sprocket.

ClassicBike.biz
 High Gear, Oil Seal a n d M a i n s h a f t Bearing. Remove the t w o long casing t o
o u t e r cover studs and the t w o dowels, casing t o inner cover and press t h e high gear
o u t and i n t o the casing. Ease the o i l seal f r o m t h e housing and discard.
I
/I

Remove t h e bearing retaining circlip and press t h e bearing out o f t h e housing.

Check t h e gear for chipped o r w o r n teeth and t h e shaft bearing for wear. Thoroughly
clean and degrease the journal bearing and d r y w i t h pressure air. Check f o r rough-
ness, pitting, indentation and float; make sure that t h e mainshaft high gear is a good
fit i n t h e inner race. W h e n replacing, first warm t h e casing and then press the
bearing i n t o the hous~ng,securing it w i t h a circlip. Lubricate w i t h o i l when i n
p o s i t ~ o n . Press a new 011seal i n t o t h e ball race housing w i t h the part number o n
the outside and the leather "rolling" towards the inside o f the case. Insert t h e
high gear f r o m inside the housing, through the bearing and press it fuliy:home.

R e p l a c i n g t h e C h a i n S p r o c k e t and Nut. Support t h e high gear from inside t h e

casing and press the sprocket o n t o t h e high gear splines. Secure the casing i n t h e
vice and w i t h a block between t h e sprocket teeth and t h e vice, tighten the locknut
t o t h e sprocket.

A r r o w indicates
Camplate Plunger

Fig. 26. G E A R B O X C A S I N G IN VICE

S h o w i n g t h e C a r n p l a t e in t h e t o p (4th) g e a r p o s i t i o n s

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 ASSEMBLING THE G E A R B O X

M a i n s h a f t Gears. Secure the gearbox casing i n a vertical position w i t h the open

end facing upwards (See Fig. 26). Slide t h e mainshaft third gear over the mainshaft
followed by t h e mainshaft second gsar, w i t h their selector grooves towards the centre.
Grease t h e camplate roller and fit it o n t o t h e smaller selector fork peg. Position
t h e smaller selector f o r k i n the second and t h i r d gear grooves w i t h the shaft o f the
selector f o r k below t h e mainshaft and t h e roller towards the clutch end of the casing.
Lower t h e assembly i n t o the case. W h e n the gear cluster i s correctly located, t u r n
t h e selector f o r k u n t i l the camplate roller rests i n the selector campiate track.
W i t h d r a w t h e mainshaft slowly, leaving t h e second and third gears and selector fork
i n position t o assist assembly of the layshaft gears.

L a y s h a f t Gears. Assemble the t h i r d and second gear w i t h the selector fork

grooves facing inwards t o tbe layshaft and high gear. Apply grease t o the roller
and fit t o t h e larger selector fork peg. Fit the larger selector fork i n t o the grooves,
with t h e shaft o f t h e selector above the iayshaft and the camplate roller towards the
open end o f t h e gearbox. Lubricate t h e layshaft bush and lightly smear the shaft
w i t h oil. Lower t h e layshaf: assembly i n t o the gearbox, small gear first, until t h e
camplate r o l l e r can be engaged on the camplate track. O i l the selector rod and
thread it very carefully through the selector forks, shoulder end first, and engage
it i n the locating hole i n the clutch end o f the casing. O i l the mainshaft and thread
it through t h e rnainshaft gears. Place the layshaft low gear over the layshaft end
with t h e inrernal teeth facing inwards. Piace a strzight edge over the gearbox end
and test t h e clearance between the running face of the layshaft low gear and the
outer face o f the inner casing. Minimum allowable clearance i s 0.005" (0.13 mm.).
If t h e clearance is less than specified, t h e layshaft bush cannot have been fully located,
or, i f it has, t h e face of the bush must be cleaned up. Remember that a layshaft
seizure means a locked rear wheel.

G e a r b o x I n n e r C o v e r . Fit the hollow dowels and long casing studs t o the casing
and lightly smear jointing compound o n t o the cover inner face. W i t h the selector
quadrant held i n t h e high (4th) gear position, assemble the inner cover t o the casing.
Tighten t h e casing screws ; do not o m i t t h e screw adjacent t o the selector quadrant
Inside the cover. The action of the seiector assembly can be checked if the qurdrant
i s operated by a screwdriver and the high gear and mainshaft are rotated at the same
time. Gear selection should be correct if these instructions have been carried o u t
correctly.

W i t h the selector i n high gear, fit the kickstarter ratchet and pinion assembly o n t o
t h e mainshaft i n the following order: plain washer, sleeve, spring, pinion w i t h ratchet
face facing outwards, ratchet, lockwasher and nut. Lock the gears by placing a block
between t h e chain sprocket and the vice and tighten up the ratchet nut. Bend the
locking washer tab over when the n u t is tight.

G e a r b o x O u t e r C o v e r . Smear jointing compound onto the face of the inner cover.

Grasp the gearchange pedal in one hand and the kickstart lever i n the other. W i n d
t h e kickstart pedal anti-clockwizr t o prevent the quadrant fouling the stop on the
inner cover, when the ouler :aver is slid i n t o position. Fit and tighten up the nuts

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 -
- - -

I
i
- Installing Gearbox

i
1
I
and screws. Test the action of the kickstarter pedal, making sure that there is
sufficient tension i n the spring t o r e t u r n the pedal smartly and that it is n o t becoming
! "coil bound" when the pedal is depressed fully. Check that the gear selection i s
i
correct. Re-fill w i t h oil until it begins t o overflow f r o m t h e level plug hole. Screw
i
! the level. plug i n t o the hole and replace the filler cap.

i
INSTALLING T H E GEARBOX

(RIGID FRAME MODELS)

P o s i t i o n i n g t h e G e a r b o x in t h e F r a m e . Re-fit t h e clamp plates and chain

adjuster t o the gearbox w i t h the chamfered nut on the r i g h t hand end o f t h e upper
stud. Tighten up fully. Fit the gearbox i n t o the frame and slide the pivot b o l t and
clamp b o l t i n t o position. Fit the clamp bolt nut and tighten both bolts slightly.
Screw the frame adiuster bolt end nut i n t o the frame and tighten.

1 Rear Chain. Replace the chain over the drive sprocket and fit the spring link.

Cables. Fit the speedometer cable t o the drive and tighten up the securing nut.
Screw the clutch cable adjuster i n t o the lug o n the inner cover and fit t h e cable
nipple i n t o the clutch lever.

F o o t r e s t Rod. If the removal process was carried o u t as described, the r o d and

r i g h t hand footrest and footrest nut should have remained as one assembly. Enter
the free end i n t o the engine plazes from the right hand side making sure that the
rod passes through the distance tube between the rear engine plates.

P r i m a r y Chaincase I n n e r Cover. Fit the oil retaining plate under t h e spring

plates. Place the engine plate t o chaincase distance piece i n position o n t h e footrest
rod and fit the chaincase t o crankcase and over the gearbox mainshaft. Make sure
that the footrest rod projects i n t o the chaincase. Secure the front end w i t h t h e
three screws (not fitted t o TR5). Position the rear chainguard t o the chaincase and
secure w i t h the set screw.

B a t t e r y C a r r i e r a n d A i r Cleaner. Replace the air cleaner and battery carrier

and secure t o frame and chaincase. Fit the battery and connect the leads.
Far assembly of the Clutch and Engine Sprocket, etc.. see page 90.

L.H. F o o t r e s t . Fit t o spindle and securely tighten the nut.

F o o t r e s t Pedal, Grease the pedal spindle and fit the pedal. Replace t h e spring
washer, plain washer and secure w i t h the nut.

E x h a u s t System. Re-fit the exhaust pipe and silencer assemblies.

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Frame. Ehsurethat the link securing the centre stand spring is correctly positioned
i n the frame lug.

P i v o t Bolt. Fit the gearbox into the frame and insert the pivot bolt. Replace the
bolt nut, finger tight.

Rear Engine Plates. Re-position t o engine and frame,(piate with adjuster fitted
on the R.H.). Fit the plate cover and then enter the studs (nut fitted a t one end)
from the L.H. side. D o n o t omit the footrest spindle and lower rear stud and distance
pieces. Fit the R.H. stud nuts and securely tighten a l l except the adjuster securing
nut which should be only finger tight at this stage.

B a t t e r y C a r r i e r t o Engine Plate Bolt. Re-fit.

Oil T a n k and A l r Cleaner Unit. Fit the air cleaner t o the oil tank and shroud
and replace the assembly t o the frame, fitting the three securing nuts and bolts.
Re-connect the air cleaner t o the carburetter. Remove the plug from the oil block
and refit the block t o crankcase using a new joint washer.

Speedometer Cable. Insert the cable end into the gearbox, ensuring that it mates
with the driving spindle, and then tighten up the attachment nut.

C l u t c h Cable. Connect cable nipple t o clutch operating arm and screw the cable
adjuster into the inner cover lug.

R.H. Footrest and Spindle. Insert the spindle through the engine plates from
the R.H. side ensuring that the distance piece is correctly located. Fit the short
distance piece between the primary inner cover and engine plate over the footrest
spindle.

P r l m a i y Chaincase, C l u t c h and Engine Sprocket. Replace as described on

page 90, but before replacing the chaincase outer cover, check the primary chain
adjustment. If out of adjustment, correct as described on page 94 and then tighten
the adluster stud and the pivot bolt nut.

L.H. Footrest. Fit t o spindle and securely tighten the nut.

t o o t b r a k e Pedal. Grease the pedal spindle and fit the pedal. Replace the spring 1
washer and secure with the nut. Connect operating rod t o pedal, placing the plain
washer, over the rod end, and secure with a split pin. I
I

Exhaust System. Re-fit the exhaust pipe and silencer assemblies.

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i I CLUTCH A N D S H O C K ABSORBER UNIT
The clutch is t h e multi-plate cork type incorporating a transmission shock absorber.
i
I
T h e pressure o n t h e plates i s made by four equaliy disposed springs which can be
varied by screwing i n o r o u t the four slotted nuts which secure them. The clutch
! is designed t o operate i n o i l and it i s therefore essential that the o i l level i n t h e
I
I
i chaincase is maintained otherwise t h e cork inserts may b u r n and disintegrate under
heavy loading. Always use t h e recommended grade o f o i l (SAE 20 see lubricant
chart, page 200). If a heavier grade o f oil is used, the clutch plates w ~ l nl o t readily
I separate when disengaged which w i l l cause difficult and noisy gear selection when
I t h e gearchange pedal i s operated. Even w i t h the thinner grades o f oil, t h e kick-
starter should always be operated a few times w i t h t h e clutch extracted before
I attempting t o start t h e engine. This procedure ensures that the plates separate
I freely when a gear selection i s made.

The shock absorber unit which is incorporated in the clutch is robustly constructed
1 1 and i s designed t o give many thousands of miles of trouble free service. Briefly, it
operates i n t h e following manner: t h e drive i s transmitted through the clutch plates
i i n t h e normal manner, then through the drive rubbers t o the four armed spider
1 which i s keyed t o the clutch shaft; this also being keyed t o t h e gearbox mainshaft.
i T h e spider is free t o oscillate inside t h e clutch centce b u t is restrained by eight
rubber pads, t w o o n either side of each arm. The larger o f these pads is the drive
I
11 I, rubber, t h e smaller t h e rebound. The drive and rebound rubber efiectively level
o u t all the engine speed variations at l o w speeds, providing an extremely smooth and
pleasant torque, which reduces transmission wear due t o t h e absence of "snatch".

R E P L A C E M E N T O F T H E CORiC I N S E R T S

It i s n o t recommended that replacement of the cork inserts i n the clutch plates is

made by t h e owner. This operation calls f o r precision and special equipment to
reduce t h e new inserts t o the correct thickness at each side o f the plate and t o
ensure an even overall sudace. The better method is t o exchange t h e old plates
f o r service replacement plates a t the nearest Triumph Dealer.

OVERHAULING THE CLUTCH

! DISMANTLING

E x h a u s t P i p e a n d S i l e n c e r L.H. Remove.
I
\ Footrest. Remove t h e left footrest.

F o o t b r a k e Pedal. Remove the u n i t from t h e pedai spindle.

I
P r i m a r y Chaincase. O n the Rigid Frame ST and 6T A.C. equipped models t h e
stator leads must f i r s t be released f r o m under the saddle mounGng and then freed
II f r o m t h e frame. Place an o i l drip tray under t h e chaincase and proceed t o remove
t h e securing screws (all models). E x e t h e outer casing away and where an alternator
is fitted take care t o avoid damaging t h e stator windings.

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ClassicBike.biz
 Dismontlinp Clutch

C l u t c h S l o t t e d N u t s (See Fig. 28). Unscrew these by using the special kcy "B"
provided i n t h e toolkit. O n the underside of the n u t head is a small "pip" which
contacts t h e ends o f the spring coil, thus making an effective locking device which
prevencs t h e n u t unscrewirg when i n service. T o facilitate removal, insert a knife
blade "A", under the head o f the nut i n order t o hold the spring away from t h e "pip"
while t h e n u t i s being unscrewed.

P r e s s u r e Springs. Withdraw from the cups.

P r e s s u r e Plate. Remove complete w i t h cups.

Fig. 28. REMOVAL O F CLUTCH N U T S

U s i n g special s c r e w d r i v e r a n d k n i f e blade.

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Dismonrlinf Clutch

C l u t c h Plates. W i t h d r a w the bonried and plain plates from t h e housing.

When this stoge is reached, no further dismantling i s necessary ifonly service relined plates
ore to be fitted. On the other hond, ifi t is desirable to overhoul the shock obsorber unit,
proceed'os below. For the overage owner the changing of the shock obsorber rubbers
con be more easily effected with the clutch i n situ.

Ifthe shock absorber shows no sign of w w r , the uni: should not be disturbed, the operator
proceeding with dismantling from (Clutch Push Rod. poge 87).

S h o c k A b s o r b e r Outer R e t a i n i n g Plate. Unscrew t h e four 2 B.A. countersunk

screws and remove t h e plate.

Engine M a i n s h a f t Nut. Remove t h e mainshaft n u t and withdraw t h e r o t o r o r

sleeve as the case may be.

B r a k e Pedal. First engage TOP gear and then replace the pedal on iu spindle,
connecting up the operating rod. Depress t h e pedal to i t s fullest extent and wedge
by inserting a suitable t o o l between r h e a r m and t h e stop.

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 I Removing t h e Shock Absorber Rubbers. Engage the clutch locking tool (See
I II Fig. 33) in the clutch housing and clutch centre. Slide the driveshaft adaptor, Part
No. Z90 (Fig. 32) onto the engine mainshaft, engaging the "dogged' end into the
I 1
exposed sprocket splines. On the 6T model the mainshaft nut must be replaced t o
I keep the adaptor in position for the next operation. Flace a suitable spanner onto the
adaptor hexagon so that the mainshaft can be rotated anti-clockwise t o compress
the other rubbers. Ease the rebound rubbe- o u t and then relea;e the pressure on
1
I 1 the spanner when the drive rubbers can be removed.

Although this chapter deals with the dismantling of the clutch and shock absorber, i t i s
desirable at this point to explain the assembly of the shock absorber unit.

I Replacing N e w Shock Absorber Rubbers. Position the four drive rubbers

(See Fig. 29) and exert pressure on the spanner to replace the rebound rubbers.
I
O u t e r Retaining Pla:e. Ensure that the rubbers are correctly positioned and
I fully in their housing and then replace the plate, securing with the four 2 B.A.
i
countersunk screws.

I
To d~srnontlethe remainder of the clutch proceed as follows:-
1

! C l u t c h Push Rod. Remove from mainshaft.

1

Fig. 30.
VIEW O F
CLUTCH
SHOWINC;
RUBBER
INSERTS IN
POSITION.

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Removing Clutch

Clutch t o Mainshaft Nut. First lock fhe clutch housing t o the clutch centre by
inserting the tool illustrated in Fig. 33. Bend back the locking washer tab and then
place a good box spanner on the nut and shock it loose by striking the spanner
tommy bar a few sharp blows with a hammer. Unscrew the nut and remove the
plain and lock washers.

Fig. 31.
U S E O F C L U T C H E X T R A C T O R "AB" A N D L O C K I N G T O O L "C"

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 II

I Removing Clutch

C l u t c h H o u s i n g . T o remove this unit, screw t h e t o o l Part No. DA50/1 seen i n

1
I Fig. 31 i n t o t h e clutch centre and by turning t h e centre bolt the clutch housing
assembly w i l l be extracted from t h e shaft. Holding the extractor t o o l i n the r i g h t

I1 : hand and gripping the engine sprocket in the left, remove both sprockets and chain
as an assembly.

C l u t c h Hub. If t h e sprocket play o n the hub i s excessive, split t h e assembly by

simply pressing o u t the hub from t h e clutch centre when the sprocket, hub and
rollers can be examined (see page 90).

Fig. 33. C L U T C H L O C K I N G TOOL

89

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Assembling Clutch

P R E P A R A T I O N AND I N S P E C T I O N
C l u t c h Springs. Check carefully for distortion. The free length o f t h e spring i s :
4 plate clutch, 1.5" (3.81 cms.); 5 plate clutch, 1.969" (5.0 cms.). If a spring measures
less than 1.4" and 1.869" (3.56 and 4.75 cms.) respectively, a new one should be
employed, or b e t t e r s t i l l a complete set.

C o r k Plates. Wash i n paraffin and examine t h e cork inserts for wear and general
condition. The corks should protrude fr" (0.8 mm.) on each side of t h e plate and
show n o signs o f burning. The engagement projections o n t h e plate should be
u n w o r n and a good fit i n the clutch housing.

S t e e l Plates. These must be perfectly flat and neither surface scored.

C l u t c h H u b . Inspect the bearing surface f o r pitting and indentation and replace i f

either fault is evident.

C l u t c h R o l l e r . Check diameter w i t h a micrometer 0.2495" (6.337 mm.), 0.25"

(6.350 mrn.), and i f below the former, fit a new set. Also carefully inspect for signs
o f rust.

C l u t c h S p r o c k e t . First inspect the condition of the sprocket teeth. If these are

"hooked" o r "chipped" a new sprocket must be fitted t o avoid excessive chain wear.
or, i n extreme cases, chain failure. If t h e teeth are i n good condition, inspect the
bearing spool f o r pitting o r indentation. Failure a t this point can be rectified by
pressing o u t t h e old spool and replacing it w i t h a new one which must be ground
after fitting. Lastly, check the housing slots i n which the clutch plates operate.
If w o r n the clutch w i l l be nolsy i n operation an6 i n extreme cases the plates may
n o t free properly when the clutch is disengaged.

ASSEMBLING T H E C L U T C H
It i s assumed that the primary chaincase has been fitted and t h e 5lutch housing
assembly has been dismantled, but the shock absorber unit has been dealt w i t h as
o n page 87.

C l u t c h Housing and H u b . Apply grease t o t h e centre hub bearing track and

assemble t h e t w e n t y rollers t o the hub. Fit t h e hub i n t o the clutch sprocket.
Place the assembly on t h e bench w i t h the open end of the housing facing upwards.

S h o c k A b s o r b e r Assembly. Position t h e four clutch pins into the shock absorber

u n i t and press t h e latter onto the hub splines. Before finally pressing i n t o position,
ensure that the heads of the pins a r e correctly located against the flange o n the shock
absorber inner plate.

P r i m a r y Chain. Place the engine sprocket and clutch sprocket o n the bench i n
t h e i r relative positions and assemble the chain to them w i t h the spring link fastener
facing upwards and its security checked. Fit t h e key t o the gearbox mainshaft and
assemble the engine and clutch sprocket as,one u n i t t o their respective shafts.

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I Assembling Clutch

C l u t c h . Fit t h e clutch locking plate i n t o t h e housing and t o t h e clutch centre,

then assemble t h e plain washer, locking washer and n u t t o t h e gearbox mainshaft.
W e l l tighten t h e n u t and lock by bending d o w n the locking washer tabs. Remove
I t h e locking plate.
I
E n g i n e S p r o c k e t . T o this part o n t h e models ST and 6T, first, fit t h e key t o t h e
I shaft and then t h e plaln washer, r o t o r , locking washer and finally t h e securing nut.
TR5, T I 0 0 & T110-Fit t h e key, distance piece; locking washer and securing nut.

C l u t c h Plates. If new corked plates are t o be fitted, first soak t h e m i n o i l (SAE 20).
First assemble a steel plate t o t h e housing and then a corked plate and so o n u n t i l
all t h e plates are i n position.

C l u t c h Push Rod. Fit i n t o t h e gearbox mainshaft.

O u t e r P r e s s u r e P l a t e . Assemble this complete w i t h cups t o t h e clutch. H o l d

i n position and enter t h e four springs and then secure w i t h t h e four slotted nuts.
Each n u t should be just started o n t h e pin thread t o aid assembly. W h e n all the nuts
are i n position, screw t h e m down u n t i l t h e thread o f the pin is level w i i h t h e o u t e r
face of t h e nut.

C l u t c h C a b l e A d j u s t m e n t . Screw i n the adjuster inside the gearbox filler cap

until t h e lever leans o u t about 15". N o w adjust the cable at t h e lug on t o p of t h e
+
gearbox t o give in. free movement i n the cable.

T r u e i n g t h e C l u t c h . The clutch outer pressure plate must spin true, otherwise t h e

plates w i l l n o t separate when t h e clutch is disengaged, thus causing faulty gear
changing and t h e engine t o stall i n traffic due t o "creep". T o check, disengage t h e
clutch b y operating the handlebar clutch lever and depressing the kickstarter when
the pressure plate can be observed rotating. If the pressure plate "wobbles" m a r k
t h e place which projects t h e furthest and screw in, half a turn, t h e nearest slotted
nut. Repeat t h e test. It must be emphasized that extra care taken w i t h this
operation w i l l make for a smooth and effective clutch engagement.

P r i m a r y Chain Adjustment. Check, and i f necessary carry o u t t h e adjustment

as described o n page 92.

Chaincase O u t e r Cover. Grease t h e paper gasket and f i t t o the outer cover.

Position the o u t e r cover t o t h e inner cover b u t o n the models 5T 8 6T thread t h e
alternator cables through t h e hole i n t h e inner cover and then secure the cover
w i t h the fixing screws. Pull t h e alternator leads through t h e inner chaincate t o
prevent them fouling the primary chain. Connect the alternator leads and slide
the grommet down t h e cable and press the boss on the outside of the inner cover.

F o o t r e s t a n d B r a k e Pedal. Replace t h e left hand footrest and tighten t h e nuts o n

both sides of t h e footrest rod. Fit t h e brake pedal and secure.

E x h a u s t P i p e a n d Silencer. Replace.

Oil. Remove t h e chaincase filler cap and pour f- pint of o i l (SAE 20) i n t o t h e crtlng
Replace the filler cap.

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Chains

SPEEDOMETER D R I V E

The drive o n all models i s taken f r o m t h e gearbox layshaft and is situated i n the
gearbox inner cover. T o disconnect t h e drive it i s only necessary t o unscrew the
cable n u t a t t h e gearbox end and w i t h d r a w t h e cable.
If an o i l leak occurs at t h e drive bush i n t h e o u t e r cover, this indicates that the bush
o i l seal has broken down. T o remedy this fault, remove the outer cover (See page 77)
when the bush can be removed t o enable t h e fitting of a new o i l seal (See page 78).
For owners w h o wish t o convert t h e gearbox t o close ratio, no speedometer drive i s
avai\able as it is usual t o incorporate a R.P.M. indicator which i s driven off the exhaust
camshaft wheel i n lieu of the dynamo drive. For this condition, a special plug and
washer can be supplied t o replace the original drive.

T A C H O M E T E R DRIVE
A tachometer and d r i v e can be installed o n the T I 0 0 and T I 1 0 t o indicate the engine
R.P.M. The tachometer head replaces t h e speedometer head in the nacelle and the
tachometer gearbox replaces the dynamo. The drive between the t w o units i s by
cable. W h e n close r a t i o gears are employed a plug i s supplied t o blank OH the
speedometer drive i n t h e gearbox i n n e r cover.

CHAINS

Slack o r badly adjusted chains are a prolific cause of harsh running and excessive krear.
It is therefore o f the greatest importance that the adjustments are made correctly,
b o t h f r o n t and rear chains are adequately lubricated and a l l clamping nuts are
securely tightened.

Tension. Primary chain f". Rear chain y.

PRIMARY C H A I N A D J U S T M E N T (RIGID FRAME MODELS)
G e a r b o x P i v o t B o l t . This b o l t locates the gearbox t o the lower frame and it
must be slackened off before making an adjustment.

G e a r b o x C l a m p B o l t . T o gain access t o the clamp bolt nut, remove the R.H.

footrest and push the spindle o u t of t h e way. It i s then possible t o apply a spanner
t o the clamp nut.

A d j u s t e r . This i s located above t h e gearbox and t o SLACKEN the chain, t u r n the

adjuster ANTI-CLOCKWISE and t o tighten t u r n CLOCKWISE. W h e n tightening
the chain always pull t h e gearbox back after adjusting, then test the chain tension.
The reason f o r this is that the loading o n t h e rear chain pulls the gearbox towards
the rear. thus altering the chain tension.

Securing Gearbox. Re-tighten t h e clamping nut and pivot bolt and ensure
absolute security.

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 Fig. 34. G E A R B O X IN P O S I T I O N ( R I G I D F R A M E M O D E L S )

S h o w i n g a d j u s t m e n t points.

REAR C H A I N A D J U S T M E N T (RIGID FRAME MODELS)

Wheel Nuts. Slacken off both nuts

A d j u s t e r s . These are located i n the rear frame fork ends. T o TIGHTEN the c h ~ i n
slacken off t h e locknuts and tighten (clockwise) the adlusrers. Pal-iicuiar
care must b e taken nor t o disturb the alignmen: of the rear wheel. therefore the
adjusters must be turned an equal number of turns. To SLACKEN the c h a ~ nreverse
the procedure.

Securing Wheel. Tighten adjuster locknuts and spindle nuts

Brake. Check adjustmenr.

93

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Chains
-

G e a r b o x P i v o t B o l t . This bolt locates the gearbox t o the lower frame and must
be slackened off before making an adjustment.

G e a r b o x C l a m p i n g Bolt. Slacken the securing nut which also positions the

adjuster.

Adjuster. If the primary chain is t o be TIGHTENED, slacken off the front locknut
a few turns and then tighten up the REAR LOCKNUT until the chain tension i s
correct. To SLACKEN the chain, reverse the locknut procedure.

Securing Gearbox. Re-tighten the clamp nut, locknuts and pivot bolt and ensure
absolute security.

Fig. 35. G E A R B O X IN P O S I T I O N (Ti00 & T110)

Showing a d j u s t m e n t points.

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REAR C H A I N ADJUSTMENT ( S W I N G I N G A R M FRAME MODELS)
1
This adjustment may be made w i t h t h e machine off the stand, !"
vertical play or
o n t h e stand, I!"vertical play.

Wheel Nut. Slacken OH both nuts.

A d j u s t e r s . These are located o n the wheel spindle and swinging f o r k end; lugs.
T o TIGHTEN the chain, t u r n the adjuster nuts clockwise an equal number.of t u r n s
until t h e chain tension is correct. T o SLACKEN the chain tension, reverse t h e
procedure and push the wheel forward against t h e adjuster end plates.

W h e e l Securing. Tighten adjuster locknuts and wheel spindle nuts.

1
Brake. Check adjustment.

C H A I N MAINTENANCE
Although both chains are lubricated, it is advisable t o remove the rear chain at
intervals and thoroughly clean and re-grease (See below).

C l e a n i n g a n d G r e a s i n g t h e R e a r Chain. Remove all external d i r t by brushing

vigorously w i t h a w i r e brush. Soak t h e chain i n a parafin bath, moving it about u n t i l
the joints are washed clean. Finally rinse i n clean paraffin and leave t o drain and dry.
The chain after drying w i l l then be ready f o r lubricating. Immerse the chain i n a
bath or grease which has been melted over a pan of boiling water. The chain should
remain i n the bath for five t o ten minutes, being moved about freely t o ensure
penetration of the grease i n t o the chain bearings. Allow the grease t o cool t o its
normal state, then take the chain o u t of the bath, wipe off t h e surplus grease and
replace t h e chain o n the machine. W h e n fitting the spring clip fastener o n t h e
connecting link, care must be taken t o ensure correct fitting. The fastener is
roughly t h e shape of a fish, and, i f it is remembered that a fish swims nose f i r s t and
the fastener is fitted so that the nose (closed end) i s always proceeding in the forward
direction when the machine is running, t h e fitter w i l l have an easy aid t o memory.
It i s a good plan t o carry out this cleaning and greasing service a t the beginning o f t h e
winter, half-way through the w i n t e r and a t the commencement of t h e summer.

ClassicBike.biz
Chain Mointenonce

A L T E R A T I O N S A N D REPAIRS

If the chains have been correctly serviced, very few repairs w i l l be necessary. Should
t h e occasion arise t o repair, lengthen o r shorten a chain, a rivet extractoi and a few
spare parts w i l l cover a l l requirements.

No. 1
T o SHORTEN a chain containing
an EVEN NUMBER OF PITCHES
remove the dark parts shown i n
N o . 1 and replace by cranked
double I'nk and s'ngle cranded No. 2

link, No. 2.

No. 3
T o SHORTEN a chain contain:ng
an ODD NUMBER OF PlTCnES
remove the dark parts shown i n
N o . 3 and replace by a single con-
necting linkand inner linkas No.4. No. 4

No. 5
T o REPAIR a chain w i t h a broken
r o l l e r or. inside link, remove the
dark parts i n No. 5 and replace by
t w o single connecting links and
No. 6
one inner link as N o . 6.

Fig. 36. CHAINS

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 Chain Maintenance

RIVET EXTRACTOR

The r i v e t extractor can be used o n all motorcyile chains up t o pitch, whether

t h e chains are o n o r off the wheels.

W h e n using the extractor:-

1. T u r n screw anti.clockwise t o p e r m i t the punch end t o clear the chain rivet.

2. Open the jaws by pressing down the lever (See Fig. 37).

3. Pass jaws over chain and release the lever. Jaws should rest o n a chain roller
free of chain link plates (See Fig. 38).

4. T u r n screw clockwise until punch contacts and pushes o u t rivet and through
chain outer link plate. Unscrew punch, withdraw extractor and repeat
complete operation on the adjacent rivet i n the same chain outer link plate.
The outer plate i s then free and the t w o rivets can be withdrawn from opposite
sides w i t h the opposite plate i n position. D o n o t use the removed part again.

Fig. 37.
RIVET EXTRACTOR
WITH. JAWS OPEN

ClassicBike.biz
 TRIUMPH TELESCOPIC FORK

MAINTENANCE
The. Triumph telescopic hydraulically controlled fork will require little attention
other than an occasional check of the external nuts, screws and washers. A t no
tlme during normal service will the forks need topping up with oil ; slight leakage
that may have taken place will not affect the fork action.
Periodic draining and re-filling every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms.) should be carried out
and If the leakage has become excessive, it will be necessary t o drain and re-fill the
forks before this distance.

Draining. To drain the oil from the fork, remove the t w o drain plugs a t the base
of the bottom cover tubes and compress the forks t w o o r three times. This causes
the oil t o be expelled a t a greater rate.

Re-Rlllng. Replace the drain plugs. Remove the headlamp rim assembly from the
nacelle, exposing the upper part of the stanchions. Unscrew the t w o screwed oil
plugs in the stanchion and pump ij6 Pint (100 c.c.) oil (See Lubrication Chart, page 200)
into each fork leg by means of a pressure can o r gun.

Re-filling t h e TR5 Forks. To re-fill the forks on the TR5, unscrew the two large
cap nuts, securing the stanchions t o the fork head lug, and pour in the oil past the
springs.

It i s estimated that, under normal conditions, the time between fork overhauls
should be about 20,000 miles (30,M)O kms.). This work should be carried out by a
dealer or by the Trlurnph Service Department.

A D J U S T I N G T H E STEERING H E A D RACES
Lower the rear or central stand as the case may be and raise the front wheel clear
of the ground by placing a box of suitable height under the crankcase. To test the
play In the steering head, slacken off the damper and grip the fork lower tubes; rock
the fork in a fore and aft direction. Care must be taken however, t o observe that
the play felt i s In the steering head and not in the fork bushes. By watching the
lower portion of the fork crown, any movement in the aces will be easily seen.
If play i s detected, adjust the races in the following manner.

T o p Lug C l i p Bolt. Slacken off the nut.

C r o w n and S t e m Nut. By swinging the fork t o the left or right a spanner can be
placed on the nut hexagon. The spanner should be turned clockwise t o eliminate
play, but only t w o finger pressure.should be applied. Now ease the pressure off by
lightly turning the spanner in the opposite direction and then test.

Testing. The fork should move t o the full lock posltlon in both directions under
Its own weight. If the movement i s sluggish slacken off the adjuster nut slightly
more and test again. Finally, check the steering when riding the machine on the road.

ClassicBike.biz
 Fig. 39.
T E S T I N G T H E A D J U S T M E N T O F T H E STEERING H E A D RACES

R E M O V I N G T H E FORK F R O M T H E FRAME
T h e following refers t o all models w i t h the exception of t h e TR5. For this model
t h e operator should disconnect the lighting plug at the headlamp, remove t h e head-
lamp, handlebars and steering damper knob and proceed f r o m "Stanchion Cap Nuts".
First remove the front wheel, mudguard, headlamp assembly and nacelle t o p u n i t as
described o n pages 109, 174 and 177, and proceed as follows.

Handlebar. Detach control levers and loosen the twistgrip retaining screw.
Unscrew four nuts from the handlebar retaining "U" bolts. Slide t h e handlebar
o u t of t h e twistgrip sleeve and through the rubber grommets.

S t a n c h i o n C a p Nuts. Using a ring spanner t o avoid damage t o the n u t heads,

unscrew t h e t w o large stanchion cap nuts.

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Telescopic Fork

Fig. 40. TELESCOPIC FORK

ClassicBike.biz
 I N D E X T O FIG. 40. TELESCOPIC F O R K

lndex Index
No. Description. h'o. Description.

1 Lug, f o r k head. 29 Washer.

2 Bolt, pinch. 30 N u t , cap.
3 Nut. 31 Bearing, stanchion, lower.
4 "U" bolt. 32 N u t , hydraulic stop.
5 Nut. 33 Spring, fork.
6 C r o w n and stem. 34 Rod, o i l restrictor.
7 N u t , sleeve. 35 Restrictor, oil.
8 B o l t , pinch. 36 Cup.
9 N u t , stop. 37 Pin, cup.
10 Cover, nacelle, N.S. 38 Nut.
11 Cover, nacelle, O.S. 39 Tube, pressure.
12 Nacelle, top. 40 Body, pressure tube.
41 Sleeve, pressure tube.
13 M o t i f , N.S.
42 Bolt.
14 M o t i f , O.S.
43 Washer, a l u m i n i u m .
15 Washer, felt.
44 Cone.
16 Cover, b o t t o m tube, N.S.
45 Cone.
17 Cover, b o t t o m tube, O.S.
46 Cover, dust.
18 Plug, drain.
47 Knob, damper assy.
19 Washer.
48 Washer. damper.
20 Bolt, wheel l u g pinch.
49 Sleeve.
21 Nut.
50 Pin, securing.
22 Sleeve, dust excluder.
51 Plate, damper anchor.
23 Washer, felt.
52 Bolt, anchor plate.
24 Washer. 53 Nut.
25 Washer. 54 Disc, friction.
26 Bearing, upper. 55 Plate, friction.
27 Stanchion. 56 Clip, mudguard.
28 Plug, o i l filler. 57 Clip, speedometer cable.

ClassicBike.biz
D!smontl,ng Telescoprc Fork

i o p Lug. Remove t h e c r o w n and stem sleeve nut, undo the t o p lug pinch bolt, and,
using a soft metal drift, give the t o p lug a sharp blow from underneath t o loosen it
f r o m the raper of, the stanchions. Remove t h e damper anchor plate bolt and raise
t h e t o p lug lifting w i t h i t the t w o stanchion nuts which i n t u r n carry t h e pressure
tube and spring assembly, and the lower f o r k c r o w n i s eased downwards from the
frame. The complete fork assembly can be withdrawn from the frame as there is
sufficient clearance between the t o p o f t h e f o r k c r o w n stem and the underside of the
t o p lug. If care i s taken, the top ball race can be left undisturbed and the balls collected
f r o m the lower race as the clearance becomes suficient.
If the mechanic does n o t wish to disturb t h e steering colur;nn, carry out the first t w o
operations and proceed as follows:-

M i d d l e L u g Pinch Bolts. Remove b o t h bolts

T o p Lug. U n d o the t o p lug pinch bolt and loosen the t o p lug w i t h a sharp blow as
described.

Oil. Remove the drain plugs a t the b o t t o m tube covers and let the o i l drain out.

Pressure T u b e B o d y B o l t . Remove these bolts from the base of the bottom cover
tube.

Pressure T u b e A s s e m b l y a n d Spring. W i t h d r a w from the forks by liftin,: the

stanchion cap nuts.

F o r k Legs. Remove from the middle lug by pulling downwards.

DISMANTLING T H E FORK
Pressure T u b e A s s e m b l y . Unscrew the t w o pressure tube securing bolts and
withdraw the pressure tube assemblies and t o p lug.

L o w e r N a c e l l e Covers. Remove the t w o middle lug pinch bolts and take OH the
lower nacelle covers.

B o t t o m C o v e r Tubes. Unscrew the dust excluder sleeves from the bottom cover
tubes and pull the cover tubes downwards sharply, this will remove the bushes at the
same time.

D u s t E x c l u d e r Sleeves. Remove the t w o steel rings and the felt strip.

S t a n c h i o n L o w e r B e a r i n g . G r i p t h e stanchion above the bearing surface and

remove the hydraulic stop nrrt and the stanchion lower b e ~ r i n g .

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E PRESSURE T U B E ASSEMBLY
M a i n Spring. Compress the main s p r i n ~and g r i p the oil restrictor rod in a pair of
pliers. Remove the large cap nut and release the spring.

P r e s s u r e T u b e Sleeve. G r i p the pressure tube and unscrew the pressure tube

sleeves.

ClassicBike.biz
 Examining Telescopic Fork

R e s t r i c t o r R o d Assembly. Remove t h e restrictor rod from t h e pressure tube,

unscrew t h e o i l restrictor n u t and remove t h e restrictor, restrictor cup and pin.

D I S M A N T L I N G , P R E P A R A T I O N AND A S S E M B L Y OF U N I T S
First thoroughly degrease all parts and lay o u t for inspection. If the mileage covered
i s more than 20,000 (30,000 krns.) it is recommended that all bushes and seals are
changed.

Stanchions. Check that the stanchion i s t r u e by laying a straight edge along it t o

find o u t i f there i s any distortion. If t h e stanchion is t o be used again after straight-
ening, t h e b o w should not exceed &" (4.8 mm.). The owner i s n o t advised t o
undertake the servicing of a fork i n this condition, it should be returned t o a Triumph
Dealer f o r an exchange service replacement.

H e a d L u g s a n d M i d d l e Lug. If the motorcycle has been involved i n an accident

t h e lug w i l l require expert attention. N o attempt should be made t o carry o u t
this w o r k w i t h o u t jigs.

B o t t o m C o v e r Tubes. Examine f o r indentation and scrap i f defective.

Springs. If the coils are not unduly compressed, the springs are fit f o r further
service. The free length o f the spring should be within j" (12.7 mrn.) of the original
length which i s 19,L" (49 cms.) solo and 20" (51 cms.) s/c.

B a l l Races. Cups, cones and balls should be examined for indentation and pitting
and changed i f necessary.

Top Race ... ... ... ... 22 &" (4.76 mrn.) diarn. Balls
Bottom Race ... ... ... 20 $" (6.35 mm.) diam. Balls
3T only ... ... ... .,: 22 &" (4.76 rnm.) diam. Balls T o p & Bottom

F r i c t i o n D a m p e r . Examine the friction damper assembly for traces of oil, grease,

rust, etc. Renew the friction disc if at all w o r n and the spring plate if weak o r broken.

PRESSURE T U B E ASSEMBLY
R e s t r i c t o r Rod. F i t the pin t o t h e restrictor rod, then the cup, restrictor, and
finally the locking nut.

P r e s s u r e T u b e . Screw the lower valve body t o the pressure tube and insert the
restrictor r o d assembly. Slide the t o p support sleeve over the restrictor r o d and
screw o n t o the pressure tube.

Checking. T o ensure correct operation of the valve, place the assembly i n a t i n of

oil and pump the r o d up and down. W h e n the pressure tube i s filled, the upward
movement of the r o d should be restricted and the downward movement unrestricted.

S p r i n g a n d C a p N u t . Fit the spring over the restrictor r o d and compress u n t i l

the rod can be gripped w i t h a pair of pliers. Screw the cap nut i n t o position and
release the spring.

ClassicBike.biz
Ai~gnlnx TC~LICO~IC
Fork -

Fig. 41. A L I G N I N G T H E FRONT F O R K

104

ClassicBike.biz
 IGNMENT.INSTRUCTIONS, Fig. 41. . .
, . -.. . . ...

i form and can easily be made b y the distributor, dealer o r the

Prlva\\! 8knrr- k h a the advantage that after t h e 'front wheel has been removed,
bolt1 ili\tkll. r& non-nacelle type forks can be cheed.-
Fit 1 1 1 \bhcg
~ +&e or a straight %" diameter r o d i n position and. place the /ig on
tho I O Kf&' ~-hen~ ds indicated i n the iflus'tratian opposite. TQ avoid scratching
'ha clbi\l\~elrcz3 cn the fork members, apply a s m w r o f grease at t h e four points.
Hold II lltm?yz*ifthe alignment i s correct, contam w i l l be made at all four points
I 1 E 5 e jig does not make contact at "A" o r "B", it w i l l be necessary
!
Witll I l ~ t !ha& q p e fork t o remove the ,headlamp assembly and initrumenc top
I
Unit (11 i\\al..e ;n aifustment. Slacken off the top l u g and middle pinch bolts. If'the
1% cilll I J ~ .r d a . "A" this indicates that "D" is too far forward. T o remedy,
I
i ~ " i b @ I11k top 1 ~ ;5r point "D" a sharp b l o w with a. hide hammer and then make a
furtlFl- tlleckw* 5 e iig. I f t l i e error is a t "0" the application i s the same, only at
! point "(;". i9he7. h;e adjustnlent i s satisfactory tighren che pinch bolts and make
anotlirr 1 lleci2

I
ASSEIIIILINC. AND I N S T A L L I N G T H E F O R K (NACELLE TYPE)

Befort /lrrnrr..cdrg to assemble the fork, lubricate ,ill pars.

I
I Stanc)dr,tl ~--r;5. Fir the bearing t o the stanchlotis and lock with the hydraulic
!I StOF fii,t c;- 7 s Searings for freedom of move\nent,

i
j D r a i n I ' ~ I Isty*
~ ~ . :he drain plugs into the bottom cover tube, ensuring tightness.

Dust E / l l ~ d e r . 3
: a new felt washer t o each dust excluder cap making sure that
the t/dr, O,,, 7 ~washerss a r e on either s~deof the felt.

BOttOrf~ t,vw Tube Assembly. Assembli, the statichion t o the bottom cover
tube zr4 i , d ;,,;o? bsaring. Screw on the dust excl\bder and check the movement
of the ~ w , , ~ , , , .*+ich should be free and smooth.

steer in^ Racer. l i t h e steering column assembly has been dismantled, grease the
CUPSir. :rizt &,d press the balls onto them.

ar4 C~,rovn Stem and T o p Lug. Assemble the fillk crown stem and top lug t o
the cr,izsa;in and tighten down the sleeve nut !!!nil the steering moves lreely
lromsikt/l side wirh n o u p and down movement. Fi[ and tighten the pinch bolts
and h m ~ parts. r .,
(',
9; :i,e horn t o the fork crown and stern (no! TR5). ,
,
Lower t ~ * < e l l eCovers. Assemble the lower nacelle covers and position the $ !
pinch b(.:and but do not tighten. ::

105

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 Arscmbline Telescobk Fork

S t m c h l o n and B o t t o m C o v e r Tuba A u s m b l y . Fit t h e felt washers l n t o the

nacelle coven and slide the stanchions through the fork crown lug into the tapers
o f the t o p lug. Llghtly tighten the fork crown pinch bolts.

Pressure T u b a Assembly. Insert the assembly into the stanchlon. In the

pressure tube body a dowel is fined, which must locate i n the dowel hole in the
bottom cover tube. When it Is located, tit the locking bolt with copper washer.
through the hole in the bottom cover tube into the pressure tube assembly and
lock tight.
E
Lubrication. Push the bottom cover tube lnto the upper cover and pwJr 100 C.C.
h
(116 pint) 011 part the springs and into the top of each stanchlon.

Cap N u t Force the bottom cover tubes down and screw the cap nut i n t o the
stanchion, ensuring that it is well tightened. If this'precaution i s not taken, the
stanchlon w i l l n o t be drawn into the top lug and excessive strain will be put on
the crown and stem.

F o r k C r o w n Pinch Bolts. Tighten up the pinch bolts. (See Fig. 41 and t e x t

describing fork alignment).

Handlebars. Fit the handlebars t o the top lug and connect the horn together
w i t h all controls and cables.

N a c e l l e T o p U n i t Replace the top unit and connect all wires, speedometer

cables, etc., as described on page 177.

S t e e r i n g D a m p e r Knob. Replace the damper knob, making sure that the steel
thrust washer is i n position.

M a a d l a m p Assembly. Replace as described on page 177.

Mudguard. Replace t o the fork and secure all fastenings.

F r o n t Whitl. Replace the front wheel (See page 114).

I "' ASSEMBLING THE F O R K (TRS)

When fitting the TR5 forks, the operator should complete the first six operations
listed I n the previous paragraph and proceed as follows :-

II F o r k T o p Covers. Fir in the same way as the lower nacelle covers.

Stanchion and B o t t o m C o v e r T u b e Assembly. Proceed as described.

1i Prersure T u b a Assembly. Assemble as described.

Lubrication. Fill the forks as described.

ClassicBike.biz
 I Changing Fork Springs
-
Cap N u t Tighten t h e cap nuts as described.
I
I
Fork C r o w n P i n c h Bolt. Tighten t h e bolts.
1
Handlebars. F i t t h e handlebars t o t h e t o p l u g and connect all levers and cables.
I
H e a d l a m p . F i t t h e headlamp t o t h e forks and connect t h e lighting plug.
i
I ! Speedometer. Re-fit speedometer and cable.
I S t e e r i n g D a m p e r . Re-fit the steering damper k n o b making sure that t h e steel
1
I thrust washer is i n position.

I
I
Mudguard.

Wheel.
Replace t o t h e f o r k and secure all fastenings.

Replace as described.
Y
C H A N G I N G T H E MAIN S P R I N G S
In order t o change t h e main springs, or t o f i t stronger ones f o r sidecar purposes, t h e
/'II
.I
operator should remove t h e headlamp and nacelle t o p cover as described on page 177
and t h e handlebars as described o n page 99 dnd proceed as follows .-
I
I

I
Cap Nuts. Unscrew t h e t w o cap nuts i n t h e t o p lug.

Spring. G r i p t h e spring which should n o w be showing, and force it down u n t i l

I
I

the restrictor r o d can be gripped w i t h a pair o f pliers.

I

R e s t r i c t o r Rod. Unscrew t h e cap nuts f r o m t h e restrictor r o d and secure a piece

of soft w i r e t o t h e r o d before releasing t h e spring. This enables t h e 3perator t o
retain control o f t h e restrictor r o d during removal and replacement of the spring.
Repeat t h e operation o n the other f o r k leg and re-assemble t h e forks i n exactly t h e
reverse procedure. The f o r k springs have a colour identification as follows :-

Solo ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ,.. Red
Sidecar ... ... ... ... ... .. ... .. Blue
Extra-Heavy Sidecar ... ... ... ... ?urple

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ADJUSTING THE BRAKES
Before attempting t o make an adjuztment, t h e wheels must be raised clear of the
ground by'placing t h e machifie o n i t s stand o r stands as t h e case may be.
Front B r a k e . T o adjust the brake shoes closer r o t h e bralce drum, t u r n the knurled
t h u m b n u t (See Fig. 42) i n a clockwise direction. The brake should be s e t so that
when it i s fully applied t h e lever i s just clear of the handlebar. By this adjustment,
t h e rider w i l l be able t o e x e r t the maximum amount o f grip o n t h e lever. After
making an adjustment, spin the wheel t o ensure that t h e brake shoes are n o t binding
o n t h e brake drum.
R e a r Brake. The adjustment is made by turning t h e knurled t h u m b nut (See
Fig. 42) at t h e rear end of t h e brake operating r o d i n a clockwise direction. After
adjusting spin t h e wheel t o ensure that t h e brake is not binding. O n the Rigid
Frame Models an adjustment ca;r t e made t o the brake pedal position, but after
making an alteration, the t.raie r.u:t be re-adjusted.

(ieft\
Front Brake
Adjustment

(Right)
Rear Brake
Adjustment
The "Ghost" iines sh?:; ..!~i
lever pc.i.iion v;V.e? rk.?
linings 2,. trailv w,3l-i.

Fig. 41. ADJUSTING THE B R A K E S

:08

ClassicBike.biz
 Front Wheel

FRONT W H E E L

The f r o n t wheel a s fitted t o all models requires very l i t t l e maintenance beyond

re-packing t h e hub w i t h grease every 10,000 miles (15.000 kms.). The wheel bearings
are of t h e ball bearing type and therefore require n o adjustment. The r i m is 19" i n
diameter (WM2-19) fitted w i t h 3.25 : 19" tyre, and t h e h u b consists of t w o parts,
the hub itself and the brake drum. It should be noted that t h e spokes have specially
angled heads, ensuring sturdy wheel construction. Four separate head shapes are
used and replacements should be the same as the originals. The brakes are internally
expand~ngt o 3 7"(17.78 cms.) brake d r u m (Model ST, 6T & TRS) and an 8"(20.32crns.)
brake d r u m (TlGO and T110) and are ]mounted o n an aluminium alloy (DTD.424)
anchor plate as a complete unlt.

R E M O V I N G T H E F R O N T W H E E L F R O M T H E FORKS

B r a k e C a b l e . Remove the split pin from t h e pivot pin connecting the brake
operating lever and the cable. W i t h d r a w the pivot pin.

A n c h o r P l a t e B o l t . Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt connecting the anchor
plate t o the f o r k leg.

Spindle N u t . Remove from the spindle.

F r o n t S t a n d . Lower the front stand by loosening the retaining n u t at the rear of

the mudguard and pivot the stand downwards.

Spindle. Slacken rhe spindle pinch b o l t on the left hand f o r k and drive the spindle
out, when the wheel can be withdrawn from the forks. D o not damage the spindle
threads.

DISMANTLING T H E FRONT WHEEL

B r a k e A n c h o r P l a t e . Hold the operating lever towards t h e "ON" position so

that t h e brake shoes do not bind o n the d r u m and lift the anchor plate from the
brake drum.

B e a r i n g R e t a i n i n g R i n g N u t . The ring n u t has a left hand thread. Remove by

turning i n a clockwise direction.

S p i n d l e S l e e v e a n d C o l l a r . D r i v e the sleeve and collar o u t from the brake d r u m

side.

W h e e l B e a r i n g L.H. Drive t h e bearing o u t complete w i t h dust cover, using a

4" (9.5 mrn.) diameter bar inserted through the brake d r u m side bearing. Remove
the bearing distance piece.

1
W h e e l B e a r i n g R.H. Drive this bearing o u t i n t o the brake drum
1 109

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Ffont Wheel

Fig. 43. FRONT W H E E L (ST. 6 T & TRS)

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 Front Broke

I N D E X TO FIG. 43. F R O N T W H E E L (5T, 6 T & TR5)

Index Index
No. Description. No. Description.

1 Hub. 15 Nut.
2 Drum, b r a k e . 16 W a s h e r .
3 Nut, drum t o hub. 17 S h o e w i t h lining.
4 Lockplate, nut. 18 C a m , b r a k e o p e r a t i n g .
5 Spindle. 20 Lever, b r a k e c a m .
6 Sleeve a n d c o l l a r .
21 Nut.
7 N u t , spindle.
22 Washer.
8 Washer.
9 Bearing. 23 Spring, c a m l e v e r r e t u r n .
10 D i s t a n c e piece. 24 <poke, long, 90' head.
11 Ring nut, bearing retaining. 25 Spoke, long, 88' head.
12 Cap, d u s t . 26 Spoke, s h o r t , 83' head.
13 Plate. b r a k e anchor. 27 Spoke, s h o r t , 94' head.
14 Pin, s h o e f u l c r u m . 28 N i p p l e , spoke.

T O DISMANTLE T H E F R O N T BRAKE A N C H O R PLATE

B r a k e Shoes. Remove the return springs and the brake shoes w i l l be released
from the anchor plate.
B r a k e O p e r a t i n g L e v e r a n d C a m Spindle. Unscrew the retaining n u t and take
off the brake operating lever. W i t h d r a w the cam spindle from t h e anchor plate.
It i s unnecessary t o remove the brake shoe fulcrum pin.

I N S P E C T I O N AND R E P L A C E M E N T O F W O R N PARTS
W a s h i n g . A l l parts w i t h the exception of the brake shoes, should be thoroughly
I
washed w i t h p e t r o l o r paraffin.
A n c h o r Plate. This should be examined for cracks and distortion and excessive
wear i n t h e brake cam housing.
B r a k e D r u m . Clean out the greaseways and remove any rust. Refill the grease-
ways w i t h clean grease.
B a l l Bearings. Clean and dry the bearings thoroughly. Compressed air should I
be used for drying o u t if possible. Test the end fioat and inspect the balls for any
signs of indentation o r pitting. Change the bearings i f they are n o t up t o t h e
required standard. Pack t h e bearings w i t h grease before replacing i n the hub.
R e t u r n Springs. Inspect for signs of fatigue and renew if necessary. 1
B r a k e D r u m . Inspect the brake drum f o r wear, ovality o r scoring. If there is
ovality o r score marks the drum w i l l have t o be detached from the wheel and
I
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skimmed. If it i s necessary t o skim more than ,010'' (0.254 mm.) from the drum,
it should be scrapped. After skimming the brake drum, the wheel w i l l have t o be
re-built and trued-up.
I
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 Front wheel
ClassicBike.biz
 I N D E X TO FIG. 44.
lndex
F R O N T W H E E L (TI00 & T110)
Index
I1
No. Description. No. Description.

1 Cap, dust. Spindle.

2 Distance piece. Sleeve a n d collar.
3 Spoke, 90' head. Bearing.
4 Nipple, spoke. Bolt, d r u m t o head.
5 Spoke, 88O head. Spoke, s h o r t 80" head.
6 Hub. D r u m , brake.
7 Lockplate. Cam, b r a k e operating.
8 Nut. R i n g nut, bearing retaining.
9 Pin, shoe fulcrum. Shoe, b r a k e trailing.
10 Shoe, b r a k e leading. Spring, shoe return.
11 Lining, brake shoe. Plate, b r a k e anchor.
12 Rivet, l i n i n g t o shoe. Spring, c a m l e v e r r e t u r n .
13 Washer. Lever, b r a k e cam.
14 Nut. Washer.
15 Gauze, anchor plate. Nut.
16 Peg, gauze securing. Nut, wheel spindle.
17 Washer. Blankina late.

B r a k e Shoes. If the brake adjuster has been fully taken up, the brake shoe linings
must be changed. Do not pack the heel of the shoe in an endeavour t o make an
adjustment. New linings and rivets can be purchased from a Triumph Dealer, but
if the owner wishes, he can exchange the brake shoes for a re-conditioned set at
very little extra cost. If the old brake shoes are t o be used for further service,
inspect the rivet heads as these must be below the surface of the lining. Rivets
which show signs of contact with the brake drum can be lowered by using a suitable
round punch. Support the shoe a t the point where the rivet is t o be knocked down.

TO ASSEMBLE T H E F R O N T B R A K E A N C H O R P L A T E
I
Brake Cam. Grease the spindle of the brake cam and insert it into the'housing
on the brake anchor plate. F i t the return spring over thespindle (long end away
from the anchor plate) and tap the lever arm on t o the square shoulder w i t h the
lever arm in the same line as the cam. Fit the washer and nut and tighten.
1
Brake Shoes. Place the two shoes on the bench in their relative positions. Fit
the return springs t o the retaining hooks, then, taking a shoe in each hand and at
the same time holding the springs in tension, position the shoes'to the anchor plate.
By turning the top of the shoes inwards the assembly can be placed over t h e cam
and fulcrum pin and snapped down into position by pressing on the outsides of the
shoes.

Wind the brake lever arm anti-clockwise t o engage the return spring.

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Replacing Front Wheel

ASSEH=L!NG THE FRCjtGT **KEEL

P r e p a r a t i o n . Thoroughly clean t h e inside o f the hub and brake drum. Pack t h e
ball races w i t h grease.
B e a r i n g ( B r a k e Drum Side). Press t h e bearing i n t o t h e hub f r o m the brake
d r u m side u n t i l it engages o n t h e shoulder i n t h e hub.
B e a r i n g R e t a i n i n g R i n g Nut. Screw u p and tighten t h e bearing retaining ring
n u t (L.H. thread) using a peg spanner.
Grease. Pack about one egg-cupful o f grease into t h e hub.
B e a r i n g ( O p p o s i t e S i d e B r a k e Drum). Place the wheel w i t h the brake drum.
downwards o n t h e bench. Enter t h e bearing distance piece i n t o t h e hub and press
i n t h e bearings u n t i l t h e distance piece i s held firmly between b o t h bearings.
S p i n d l e Sleeve. Slide t h e spindle sleeve i n t o the bearing, u p t o the collar.
B e a r i n g D u s t Cap. Press the dust cap i n t o t h e hub end as far as possible.
A n c h o r Plate. Re-position t o brake drum.

F I T T I N G T H E F R O N T W H E E L TO T H E F R O N T FORK
The front wheel must be fitted carefully. otherwise the efficient w o r k i n g of the front
fork w i l l be impaired. The split left hand cover tube lug which houses the pinch
bolt, w i l l align itself correctly on the spindle i f the instructions are adhered to.
Spindle. Check that the spindle is a good push fit in t h e split left hand cover tube
lug. If t h e spindle i s t o o tight, clean o u t t h e lug and remove any burrs o r enamel.
If this is n o t effective, open up the split lug gap. This procedure must be carried
o u t t o ensure that the left hand fork leg aligns itself o n the spindle sleeve.
W h e e l . Position the wheel between the f o r k legs and secure i n position by passing
the spindle through t h e split lug i n t o t h e wheel and through the other lug. D o n o t
use force, o r b o t h the spindle and t h e lugs w i l l be damaged.
A n c h o r Plate. Position the anchor plate and secure the mudguard bridge support
clip w i t h t h e anchor bolt.
S p i n d l e Nut. Fit the spindle nut and plain washer and tighten up. D o not tighten
t h e pinch b o l t o n t h e opposite f o r k leg yet.
F r o n t B r a k e L e v e r and Cable. Re-fit t h e brake cable adjuster t o the abutment
o n the anchor plate and assemble the pivot b o l t t o the cable f o r k and brake lever
arm. Push a split pin through the pivot bolt and retain i t by bending the ends over.
F r o n t Stand. Swing the stand back i n t o position and tighten the securing nut.
S p i n d l e P i n c h B o l t . Check that this b o l t is loose and that the left hand fork leg
can slide o n t h e spindle sleeve. Sit astride t h e machine, and, applying the f r o n t
brake, w o r k t h e f o r k up and down five o r six times. This positions t h e f o r k leg o n
the spindle, and prevents any binding between the stanchions and the cover tubes.
Tighten u p t h e spindle pinch bolt.

If t h i s p r o c e d u r e is n o t adopted, t h e f o r k a c t i o n w i l l b e s t i f f a n d m e m b e r s
d i s t o r t e d . (See Fig. 45).

114

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Aligning Front Wheel
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Rigid Rear Wheel

REAR WHEEL (P.!G!D FP.AME)

The rear wheel has taper roller bearings and may occasionally require adjustment.
If the machine i s placed on the rear stand, any slackness in the bearings can be im-
mediately felt. The lateral movement should be "hardly perteptible". The bearings
are heid i n adjustment by locknuts and the lateral movement should always be checked
after the locknuts have been tightened. The hubs are packed with grease and only
require re-packing every 10,000 miles (15.000 kms.). The r i m i s 19" in diameter
(WM2-19) and has a 3.50 :.: 19" tyre fitted. The spokes a r e o f (our different head
shapes as i n the front wheel and this should be noted when making replacements.
The brakes are 7" (17.78 cms ) internally expanding and are located on a mild s t e e l
anchor plate, having a strong external peg which locates in a channel in the frame t o
withstand the braking torque.

R E M O V I N G T H E REAR W H E E L F R O M T H E F R A M E
M u d g u a r d . Disconnect the rear light leads underneath the saddle, unscrew the
nuts connecting the mudguard t o the frame and take OH the mudguard.

TR5. The mudguard of the TR5 i s designed t o allow removal of the rear wheel and
it is therefore unnecessary to remove it.

Rear Chain. Depress the gear lever to make sure that the gearbox is not in neutral.
This prevents the chain rotating on the gearbox sprocket and falling OH when the
spring link is removed. Remove the spring link and clear the chain from the r e a r
sprocket.

Brake Adjusting N u t . Unscrew this nut and remove the brake rod from the
lever arm.

Spindle N u t s . Slacken the t w o rear spindle nuts and withdraw the wheel from
the frame.

I N D E X TO FIG. 46. REAR W H E E L

Index Index
No. Descrrptron. No. Descriptron.

1 N u t , spindle. 13 N u t , bearing adjusting.

2 N u t , b r a k e plate locking. 14 Collar, chain adjuster thrust.
3 A n c h o r plate. 15 Nut.
4 Shoe c / w lining. 16 Lever, b r a k e cam.
5 Lining, b r a k e shoe. 17 Spring, c a m lever return.
6 Rivet, lining. 18 Spring, shoe r e t u r n .
7 B r a k e d r u m and sprocket. 19 Cam, b r a k e operating.
8 Lockplate. 20 Cap, dust.
9 B o l t , d r u m t o hub. 21 Ring, bearing backing.
10 Bearing. 22 Hub.
11 Spoke, 76' head. 23 Nipple, spoke.
12 Spoke, 100' head. 24 Spindle, wheel.

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 Rigid Rear W h e e l

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Dismantling Rigid Rear Wheel

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E REAR W H E E L
Spindle Nuts. Remove b o t h spindle nuts and chain adjuster thrust collars.

B r a k e A n c h o r Plate. Unscrew t h e anchor plate nut and remove t h e brake

anchor plate.

W h e e l Spindle. T u r n the wheel over and remove the bearing adjusting locknuts
and withdraw t h e rear wheel spindle.

B e a r i n g I n n e r Races. Remove both bearing inner races. The cages w i l l be

retained by t h e .dust caps. The outer races are a press fit and can be removed by
tapping o u t f r o m t h e opposite side w i t h a drift.

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E REAR BRAKE A N C H O R PLATE

B r a k e Shoes. Take off both brake shoe r e t u r n springs and remove the brake shoes.

B r a k e Shoe C a m . Remove the nut and washer securing the lever arm t o the cam
spindle and take off t h e lever arm. W i t h d r a w the cam from the plate.

I N S P E C T I O N AND R E P L A C E M E N T O F W O R N PARTS
Cleaning. A l l parts w i t h t h e exception of t h e brake shoes, should be thoroughly
washed i n petrol o r paraffin.

A n c h o r Plate. Examine t h e anchor plate f o r distortion and wear, particularly i n

t h e brake cam housing. Check that the locating stud i s secure.

B r a k e Cam. Clean o u t t h e greaseways and remove any rust w i t h a fine emery

cloth. Re-fill t h e greaseways w i t h clean grease.

R o l l e r Races. Thoroughly clean and d r y t h e roller races and cages. Inspect t h e

rollers and tracks f o r pitting and scoring. Change the bearings i f they are not up
t o standard. Pack t h e races w i t h grease before replacing t o t h e hub.

B e a r i n g B a c k i n g Rings. These rings should be examined carefully as they are

very liable t o damage when the bearings are withdrawn from the hub and w i l l
probably require replacing.

A n c h o r P l a t e a n d B e a r i n g L o c k i n g N u t s . Examine these nuts for damage t o

the threads and hexagons.

Spindle. The rear wheel spindle should be checked for bends and signs of the
wheel nuts .having been overtightened. D o n o t replace a wheel spindle which
shows any sign o f damage o r distortion.

R e t u r n Springs. Inspect f o r signs of fatigue and renew if necessary.

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- - Rear Broke (Rigid Wheel)

B r a k e Drum and S p r o c k e t . Examine t h e brake d r u m f o r scoring o r ovallty.

I f t h e d r u m needs skimming, it can be removed f r o m t h e wheel b y bending back
t h e tabs o n t h e brake d r u m lock plates and removing t h e b a k e d r u m bolts. Re-
ke placement i s t h e reverse procedure. If it should be necessary t o skim m o r e than
,010" (0.254 mm.) from t h e drum, it should be replaced b y a n e w drum. Examine
t h e sprocket teeth for wear. The t o p o f t h e t o o t h should be flat and approximately
ITS $" (3.2 mm.) across. W h e n t h e teeth become worn, t h e profile becomes pointed
and sharp. T h ~ scondition i s dangerous and damage t o t h e chain is likely t o follow.

38
B r a k e Shoes. See page 113.
'Y

ASSEMBLING T H E REAR BRAKE A N C H O R PLATE

B r a k e O p e r a t i n g S p i n d l e a n d C a m . Grease t h e spindle o f t h e brake operating
cam and insert it into the housing f r o m t h e inside o f t h e brake anchor plate. Place
o n the r e t u r n spring (long end away from the anchor plate) and tap t h e lever a r m
o n t o the square shoulder a t right angles to t h e flat side of t h e cam. Place o n t h e
lever n u t and tighten up.

B r a k e Shoes. Place the t w o shoes on the bench In their relative positions. Fit
the r e t u r n springs t o t h e retaining hooks, then, taking a shoe i n each hand and at
the same time holding the springs i n tension, posltion the shoes to t h e anchor plate.
By turning the t o p of t h e shoes inwards, t h e assembly can be placed over t h e cam and
fulcrum pin and snapped down i n t o position by pressing o n t h e outsides o f the shoes.
W i n d the brake lever a r m anti-clockwise to engage t h e r e t u r n spring.

ASSEMBLING T H E REAR W H E E L
Hub. Assemble the brake d r u m t o t h e hub. Enter the fixing bolts f r o m t h e hub
side and position the locking washers inside t h e brake drum. F i t t h e outer lock-
washer and the fixing b o l t nuts; when fully tightened, lock t h e m by bending u p t h e
locking washer tabs.

B e a r i n g B a c k i n g Ring. Place t h e backing r i n g i n the brake d r u m side o f t h e h u b

and then insert the bearing o u t e r race. The race should be pressed i n t o t h e hub.
Repeat operation t o t h e opposite side.

Inner R o l l e r Race. Pack the race w i t h grease and enter t h e brake d r u m side
o u t e r race. Place the dust cover over the bearing and press i n t o posltion. T u r n
t h e wheel over and pack i n t o t h e hub, a small quantity of grease (egg-cupful). F i t
t h e remaining race and dust cover.

Spindle. If t h e shoulder n u t has been removed from the spindle, it should n o w

be replaced and screwed down t o t h e end o f the spindle thread (the smaller shoulder
of the n u t must be i n t h e o u t e r position). Enter t h e spindle i n t o the hub from t h e
brake side.
I

ClassicBike.biz
Fitting Rigid Rear Wheel

B e a r i n g A d j u s t i n g L o c k n u t . T u r n the wheel over and place the spindle between

the:jaws o f t h e vice (brake d r u m downwards) taking care t o protect the thread
with lead vice clamps. Screw b o t h bearing adjusting locknuts onto the spindle and
tighten t h e lower u n t i l it.contacts t h e bearing but leaves the wheel free t o rotate.
Lock t h e upper n u t t o the lower, then remove t h e wheel from the vice. Check
t h a t t h e spindle w i l l rotate freely by hand. Replace t h e wheel i n t o the vice for t h e
n e x t operation (brake d r u m uppermost).

A n c h o r P l a t e A s s e m b l y . T u r n t h e brake lever towards the "ON" position: by

doing this t h e backward pressure on the brake cam is released. The brake shoes
are n o w i n t h e "OFF" position and the anchor plate can be placed into the brake
drum. Screw the remaining shouldered locknut (small shoulder towards the brake
drum) o n t o the.spindlo and tighten fully t o that already i n position. Ease the brake
lever towards the "ON" position and spin the wheel t o check for binding of the brake
shoes o n t o t h e brake drum.

C h a i n A d j u s t e r T h r u s t C o l l a r a n d S p i n d l e N u t . Place the thrust collar onto

t h e spindle w i t h the shoulder inwards and screw t h e spindle nut on loosely. Repeat
f o r the opposite side.

F I T T I N G T H E R E A R W H E E L TO THE F R A M E
P o s i t i o n i n g t h e W h e e l . Lift the rear wheel i n t o the frame w i t h the brake d r u m
to t h e left hand side. Engage t h e anchor plate l , ~ g"A", i n t o the locating channel
"B", o n t h e inside of the left hand f o r k lug (See Fig. 47). Push the wheel up to the
chain adjuster screws and tighten u p t h e spindle nuts.

Fig. 47. S t u d "A" o n R e a r B r a k e A n c h o r P l a t e w h i c h must b e located i n

R e a r F o r k C h a n n e l "B".

120

ClassicBike.biz
 Rear Wheel

F i n a l B e a r i n g A d j u s t i n e n t . Test the wheel bearings f o r adjustment now chat

the wheel is i n t h e frame. Any further adjustment should be made before final
assembly. The r i g h t hand spindle nut should be undone before any adjustment is
made.

B r a k e . Pull t h e brake lever arm back, thread the brake rod through the pivot
roller i n the lever arm and screw on t h e brake adjusting thumb nut until the wheel
can just t u r n freely w i t h o u t the brakes binding. If new linings have been fitted, it
may be necessary t o bed the brakes i n before adjustment can be made, allowing t h e
wheel t o r u n freely.

R e a r Chain. Fit the chain round the sprocket and replace the spring link so h a t
the closed end is facing the direction of chain travel.

M u d g u a r d . Re-assemble the mudguard t o the frame and reconnect the tail lamp
leads under t h e saddle.

R o a d Test. Check the working of the stop light and after road testing, make the
final adjustments t o the brake.

REAR W H E E L ( S W I N G I N G FORK FRAME)

This wheel i s mounted on journal ball bearings and therefore'requires no adjustment.
Slackness i n t h e bearings can be checked by f i r s t placing the machine on the central
stand and then testing the lateral movement which should be hardly perceptible if
the bearings are i n good condition. O t h e r details are as the rear wheel fitted i n
the rigid frame.

R E M O V I N G T H E REAR W H E E L F R O M T H E FRAME
R e a r Chain. Depress the gear lever t o make sure that the gearbox is not i n
neutral. This prevents the chain rotating on the gearbox sprocket and failing off
when the spring link i s removed. Remove the spring link and clear t h e chain from
the sprocket.

B r a k e T o r q u e Stay. Remove the rear n u t and loosen the front nut and bolt.

B r a k e A d j u s t i n g Nut. Unscrew this n u t and remove the brake rod from t h e

lever arm.

Spindle Nuts. Unscrew the t w o spindle nuts and remove from the spindle,

C h a i n A d j u s t e r Assembly. Pull t h e wheel back i n the frame a short distance

and disconnect t h e adjuster assembly from the spindle.

W h e e l . Fig. 49 clearly indicates t h e method of withdrawing t h e wheel from t h e

frame. If a p r o p stand i s fitted, it is advantageous t o lower it in order t o steady t h e
machine during this operation. W h e n the machine is at the right angle, the wheel
can be easily removed.

ClassicBike.biz
Fig. 48. REAR WI-IEEL ( S W I N G I N G ARM FRAME)

ClassicBike.biz
D I S M A N T L I N G T H E REAR W H E E L
Brake A n c h o r Plate. Unscrew the anchor plate nut and hold the brake iever
against the spring tension just sufficiently t o permit the removal of the anchor plate.

Spindle. Remove the anchor plate distance piece and knock out the spindles,
taking care not t o damage the thread.

Bearing Retaining Ring N u t . Slacken off the ring nut grub screw and unscrew
the ring nut. If a suitabie peg spanner i s not available, the nut can be tapped round
with a pin punch.

Bearing and Backing Rings. Remove both bearings by knocking out of the hub
from opposite sides with a suitabie metal drift. The bearing distance tube and
backing rings will now be released.

B r a k e D r u m and Sprocket. This part need not be detached from the hub if
the drum does not require attention and the sprocket teeth are not h w k e d o r worn.
If removal is necessary, bend back the locking tabs and remove the eight bolts and
nuts when the drum can be released.

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E REAR B R A K E A N C H O R P L A T E
B r a k e Shoes. Take off both brake shoe return springs and remove the brake shoes.

B r a k e Shoe Cam. Remove the nut and washer securing the iever arm t o the cam
spindle and take off the lever arm. Withdraw the cam from the plate.

I N D E X TO FIG. 48. REAR W H E E L

Index Index
No. Description. No. Description.

1 N u t , spindle. 18 End plate, adjuster.

2 Locknut, anchor plate. 19 Nut.
3 Lever, c a m operating. 20 N u t , cam lever.
4 Plate, anchor. 21 Spring, c a m l e v e r r e t u r n .
5 Shoe c/w lining. 22 Spring, shoe r e t u r n .
23 Cam, operating.
6 Lining, shoe.
24 Locking screw, b e a r i n g
7 Rivet, lining.
r e t a i n i n g ring.
8 Distance piece, L.H. bearing. 25 Ring, bearing retaining.
9 B r a k e d r u m and sprocket. 26 Ring, L.H. b e a r i n g backing.
10 Lockplate. 27 Hub.
11 Bolt, d r u m t o hub. 28 Spoke, 7 6 O head.
12 Distance piece. 29 Nipple, spoke.
13 Spoke, 80' head. 30 Spoke, 1 M 0 head.
14 Spoke, 97' head. 31 Spindle.
15 Bearing. 32 Cap, dust.
16 N u t , R.H. bearing retaining. 33 Nut.
17 Adjuster, chain. 34 Rim, wheel.

ClassicBike.biz
Rear Wheel

Fig. 49. R E M O V I N G W H E E L F R O M S/A FRAME

I N S P E C T I O N A N D REPLACEMENT O F W O R N PARTS
W i t h the exception of the bearings, the procedure i s the same as that listed for t h e
rigid frame rear wheel on page 118.

Bearings. Clean and dry the bearings thoroughly. Test the end float and inspect
t h e balls for any signs of indentation o r pitting. Change the bearings i f they are not up
t o the required standard. Pack the bearings w i t h grease before replacing t o the hub.

ClassicBike.biz
 Assembling Rear Wheel

ASSEMBLING T H E REAR B R A K E A N C H O R P L A T E
B r a k e S h o e C a m . Grease t h e spindle o f t h e cam and insert it i n t o t h e housing
from t h e inside of t h e brake anchor plate. Place the return spring i n position (long
end away from t h e anchor plate) and tap t h e lever a r m o n t o the square shoulder at
right angles t o t h e flat side of t h e cam. Fit t h e lever nut and tighten.

B r a k e Shoes. Place the t w o shoes side by side i n t h e positions which they w i l l occupy
i n the drum. Fit t h e return springs to t h e retaining hooks, then, taking a shoe i n
each hand and at t h e same t i m e holding t h e springs i n tension, position t h e shoes t o
the anchor plate. By turning t h e t o p of t h e shoes inwards, the assembly can be
placed over t h e cam and t h e fulcrum pin and snapped down i n t o positiohby pressing
on t h e outside o f t h e shoes. W i n d t h e brake lever arm anti-clockwise to engage t h e
return spring.

A S S E M B L I N G T H E REAR W H E E L
B r a k e Drum. i f t h e brake drum and sprocket has been removed f o r rectification,
itshould be secured i n position w i t h t h e eight locking nuts. Ensure that four locking
washers are used both on the inside and t h e outside of the brake drum. Tap t h e
locking tabs up the sides of the bolts t o lock them.

Bearing, B r a k e Drum Side. Place t h e locking ring i n t o the hub f r o m t h e brake

drum side until it contacts the small shoulder inside t h e hub. Press t h e bearing in,
up t o t h e backing ring, and secure i n position by tightening the ring nut. Lock the
nut w i t h t h e grub screw.

Grease. Put about an egg.cupful o f grease i n t o the hub.

Bearing, R.H. Side. Turn the wheel brake d r u m downwards and Insert t h e
bearing distance piece i n t o the hub u n t i l it contacts t h e brake d r u m side bearing.
Press t h e R.H. side bearing into the hub, followed by the dust cover.

Spindle. Insert t h e spindle through the bearings and secure the spindle (opposite
brake drum) i n t h e vice. D o n o t forget t o protect the spindle threads against
damage by fitting soft clamps over t h e vice jaws.

A n c h o r P l a t e Assembly. Fit t h e distance piece (shouldered end towards t h e

operator) and, holding the brake lever slightly towards the "ON" position t o over-
come t h e tension of the return spring, fit the anchor plate over t h e spindle and t o
the brake drum. Replace the anchor plate securing n u t t o the spindle and securely
tighten.

S h o u l d e r e d S p i n d l e Nut. Remove t h e wheel f r o m t h e vice and replace w i t h t h e

brake anchor plate downwards, this t i m e holding t h e spindle nut. Fit and screw
down t h e shouldered n u t until it is hard against t h e bearing.
The wheel i s n o w ready f o r assembly t o t h e frame.

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Rear Wheel (Quickly Detachable)

F I T T I N G T H E R E A R W H E E L TO T H E F R A M E
W h e e l . Tilt t h e machine t o the left as i n dismantling and position t h e wheel
between t h e swinging fork. Ensure that the anchor plate stud i s correctly located
i n t h e brake t o r q u e stay hole.
B r a k e Rod. Re-position t o t h e brake lever.
Chain Adjusters. Fit the adjusters t o the spindle and position the end plates.
Chain. Re-fit t h o chain t o the sprocket and replace the connecting link. Check
t h e chain tension and adjust if necessary.
Spindle Nuts. Screw the nuts o n t o t h e spindle and securely tighten.
B r a k e T o r q u e Stays. Fit the rear n u t and securely tighten both nuts.
Brake Adjustment. Spin t h e wheel and check the operation of the brake pedal.
Adjust i f necessary.

REAR W H E E L ( Q U I C K L Y DETACHABLE)
(Fitted t o Swinging F o r k Frame only)
This wheel i s mounted on three bearings, t w o roller bearings being situated i n t h e
hub and one journal ball bearing i n t h e brake drum centre. The wheel i s made
quickly detachable by the simple method of splining the hub i n t o the brake drum,
thus eliminating t h e necessity o f removing the rear chain and disconnecting the rear
brake. A l l o t h e r details are as the rigid frame rear wheel.

R E M O V I N G T H E Q.D. REAR W H E E L F R O M T H E F R A M E
Spindle. Fit a spanner on, o r insert a suitable bar through the hexagon shaped
spindle end (R.H. side) and unscrew until the spindle can be withdrawn.
D i s t a n c e piece. Remove from between the R.H. fork and the wheel

I N D E X T O FIG.50. Q U I C K L Y D E T A C H A B L E R E A R W H E E L ( T l O O & T 1 1 0 )

I Index
No. Description. 1 Index
NO. Description. I
Nut, L.H. side sleeve. Spindle.
N u t , c a n t lever. A d j u s t e r , chain.
Plate, a n c h o r . End plate, adjuster.
S h o e c / w lining. Nut.
Lining. shoe. Lever, b r a k e cam.
Rivet, lining. Spring, c a m l e v e r r e t u r n .
B r a k e drum a n d sprocket. Spring, shoe r e t u r n .
F e l t washer. Cam, b r a k e o p e r a t i n g .
R e t a i n e r , b r a k e d r u m bearing. Bearing, b r a k e d r u m .
R i m , wheel. Sleeve, b r a k e d r u m .
Bearing, taper roller. Circlip, bearing retaining.
Sleeve, bearing. Cap, dust.
Hub. Ring, b e a r i n g backing.
Spoke, 76" head. Seal, h u b t o d r u m , dust.
Spoke, lWohead. N i p p l e , spoke.
Cap, d u s t . Ring, b e a r i n g backing.
L o c k n u t , bearing. Felt washer.
C o l l a r , s p i n d l e distance. Distance piece, R.H. bearing.
C o l l a r , spindle. Grease retainer.

ClassicBike.biz
ClassicBike.biz
Dismantling Rear Wheel (Quickly Detachable)

W h e e l . Ease t h e wheel t o t h e R.H.side unrii t h e h u b splines are clear of the brake

d r u m splines. Tilt t h e machine t o t h e left (if a prop. stand i s fitted, pull out and use
as a steady) when t h e wheel can be removed f r o m t h e R.H. side. See Fig. 49 o n
page 124 which clearly shows t h e method t o adopt.

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E Q.D. R E A R W H E E L
S p i n d l e Sleeve. Unscrew the t w o locknuts o n t h e r i g h t hand end of the spindle
sleeve and push t h e sleeve o u t of the hub from the r i g h t hand side.

:Bearings. Extract the inner r o l l e r races and dust cover. The outer races are a
press fit i n t h e hub and should be tapped out f r o m t h e opposite side w i t h a soft drift.
Care should be taken not t o damage t h e bearing backing rings i f there are no replace-
ment rings available.

R E M O V A L O F B R A K E D R U M AND S P R O C K E T
C h a i n . Engage a gear and remove the spring link; clear the chain from the sprocket.

B r a k e A d j u s t i n g N u t . Unscrew this n u t and remove the brake rod from t h e

lever arm.

B r a k e T o r q u e Stay. Remove the rear nut.

S p i n d l e Sleeve Nut. Unscrew this nut and remove the brake drum assembly
from t h e frame.

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E BRAKE A N D D R U M SPROCKET ASSEMBLY

A n c h o r P l a t e Assembly. H o l d t h e lever arm against the tension of the spring
t o prevent t h e brake shoes from binding and lift t h e anchor plate assembly away
f r o m t h e brake drum.

B r a k e Drum S p i n d l e Sleeve. Push this sleeve o u t o f the brake drum, applying

pressure o n the threaded end.

Bearing. Remove the bearing retaining circlip w i t h a pair of thin nosed circlip
pliers and tap olut the bearing, dust cap and felt washer.

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E A N C H O R PLATE ASSEMBLY
Brake Shoes. Take off both brake shoe return springs and remove the brake shoes.

B r a k e S h o e C a m . Remove the nut and washer securing the lever arm t o the cam
spindle and take 0 8 the lever arm. W i t h d r a w :he cam from the plate.

I N S P E C T I O N A N D R E W A C E M E N T O F W O R N PARTS
The examination of the wheel parts is exactly as described on page 118, for the rigid
frame wheel, except for the followingdifferences.

B r a k e Drum a n d H u b Splines. These should be a push fit into one another,

slackness at this point would cause the wheel t o chatter.

ClassicBike.biz
Brake Drum Bearing. Wash i n petrol and when dry, check f o r pitting and inden-
tation of the balls o r race tracks and end float. Scrap i f this is i n evidence.

Sleeves. Examine the threads and t h e cone fittings on both. Also check t h e fit
o i t h e bearings as any slackness would cause a certain amount o f wheel shake.

F e l t W a s h e r a n d H u b t o B r a k e Drum R u b b e r Seal. W h e n overhauling t h e

wheel, t h e washers and seal should be replaced t o ensure against loss o f grease and
grease penetration into the brake drum.

A S S E M B L I N G T H E REAR BRAKE A N C H O R PLATE

B r a k e S h o e C a m . Grease t h e spindle of t h e cam and insert it i n t o t h e housing
f r o m t h e inside of the brake anchor plate. .Place the r e t u r n spring i n position (long
end away from t h e anchor plate) and tap the lever arm o n t o t h e square shoulder ai
r i g h t angles t o the flat side o f the cam. Fit t h e lower nut and tighten.

B r a k e Shoes. Place the t w o shoes side by side i n t h e positions which they w i l l

occupy i n t h e drum. Fit the r e t u r n springs t o the reiaining hooks, then, taking a
shoe i n each hand and a t the same t i m e holding the springs i n tension. position t h e
shoes t o t h e anchor plate. By turning t h e t o p of the shoe inwards the assembly
can be placed over the cam and the fulcrum pin and snapped down into position by
pressing o n the outside o f t h e shoe. W i n d t h e brake lever arm anti-clockwise t o
engage t h e r e t u r n spring.

A S S E M B L I N G T H E B R A K E D R U M AND SPROCKET ASSEMBLY

B e a r i n g . Press t h e bearing i n t o t h e brake d r u m and f i t the felt dust excluder and
washer o n top. Secure i n position w i t h t h e circlip.

S p i n d l e Sleeve (Short). S l ~ d ethe spindle sleeve, threaded end first, through the
dust cover, bearing and brake drum.

A n c h o r P l a t e A s s e m b l y . H o l d t h e brake lever arm towards t h e "ON" position

and slide t h e anchor plate assembly over the spindle sleeve and i n t o the brake drum.

R E P L A C I N G T H E B R A K E D R U M AND S P R O C K E T IN T H E F R A M E
B r a k e Drum a n d S p r o c k e t . Position t o the swinging f o r k and ensure that t h e
stud o n t h e anchor plate i s located i n t h e brake torque stay hole and screw t h e n u t
i n position.

R e a r B r a k e Rod. Engage t h e rod i n t h e lever trunnion and screw on the adjuster I

nut.

C h a i n A d j u s t e r . Fit over t h e sleeve and engage the end plate t o the f o r k end.
Screw o n t h e adjuster nut t o hold t h e adjuster in position.
I

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 ~.~ -- -
~~ .~. ~

Fitting Rear Wheel (Quickly Detachable)

Sleeve Nut. Screw onto spindle sleeve and lightly tighten.

Chain. Fit the chain t o the sprocket and fit the connecting link.
Do not make any adjustments or tighten the wheel nut u n t i l t h e wheel is fitted.

ASSEMBLING THE Q.D. REAR WHEEL

Bearings. Press.the backing rings into the hub up to the small shoulder and press
In the outer races up t o them. Fill the hub with about an egg-cupful of grease and
place the inner roller aces in position.

Splndla Sleeve. Enter the threaded end ofthe spindle sleeve into the hub from the
b a k e drum side and press through both bearings.

Dust Coven. The brake drum side dust cover i s a press fit and should be pushed
I n up t o the bearing. The dust cover on the opposite side has a felt washer insen
which sjould be fitted before the cover is pressed into the hub.

L o c k l n g Nuts. Place the small spacing washer over the threaded end of the spindle
sleeve and press i t Into the space between the dust cover and the spindle sleeve.
Screw one of the locknuts onto the sleeve until a "nip" i s felt, and then slacken
back a t of a turn so that the sleeve will rotate freely. Tighten the other nut up t o
It and lock into position. Again test the rotation of the sleeve.

F I T T I N G T H E WHEEL TO T H E FRAME A N D BRAKE DRUM

H u b Rubber Seal. Fit the new rubber seal over the hub splines.

Wheel. Tilt the machine over as in dismantling and enter the wheel between the
forks. Right the machine and then locate the hub splines into the brake drum
splines.

Spindle. T o the spindle, f i r s t fit the collar with the cone shaped end towards the
hexagon, then the chain adjuster with the stud inwards. Fit the distance piece
between the fork and wheel and insert the spindle through the wheel; screw into
the hub sleeve.

Chaln Adjuster End Plate. Fit t o the R.H. adjuster stud and fork end and secure
wlth the nut.

Adjustments. Check the chain and brake adjustments, and finally the wheel
alignment. When correct, tighten the L.H.wheel nut and then place a bar o r spanner
t o the spindle hexagon and turn until the spindle is tight. Check the brake torque
stay nuts for tightness,

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 Spring Wheel

SPRING WHEEL-Mk. 2
This wheel has been designed t o operate over long periods w i t h o u t maintenance.
it w i l l be noted that there is no provision for greasing, as before t h e wheel is assembled.
t h e bearings and other working surfaces are fully loaded w i t h grease sufficient for
20,000 miles (30,000 kms.).
In view o f t h e above and the special equipment required t o dismantle t h e spring
wheel f o r rectification, owners are strongly advised t o r e t u r n t h e wheel t o their
dealer, o r direct t o o u r Service Department, when attention Is needed.
The following instructions ea; given however, f o r owners who wish t o carry o u t
t h e i r o w n maintenance and repairs. N o attempt should be made td dlsmantlethe
plunger guide box w i t h o u t the aid of the special jig illustrated on page 136.

R E M O V A L O F T H E W H E E L F R O M T H E FRAME
M u d g u a r d . Disconnect the rear light leads under the saddle. Remove t h e bolts
connecting t h e rear section mudguard t o the frame and lift the mudguard away. It
is unnecessary t o disturb the mudguard of the TR5 model i n order t o remove t h e
wheel.
Chain. Disconnect the spring link from the rear chain and disengage from t h e
sprocket. Engage a gear t o prevent the chain rolling off t h e sprocket.

Fig. 51. R E A R M U D G U A R D S E C T I O N R E M O V E D F O R TYRE R E P A I R

O R W H E E L REMOVAL

131

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Spring Wheel

Fig.52. REAR S P R I N G W H E E L ( C O M P O N E N T PARTS)

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 Spring Wheel
II -
I N D E X T O FIG. 52.

i
I REAR SPRING W H E E L ( C O M P O N E N T PARTS)

1
I Index Index
No. Descript~on No. Description.

1 Hub. 28 Plate, spring locator.

2 Brake d r u m and sprocket. 29 Buffer, spring (rubbec).
3 Bolt, b r a k e d r u m t o hub. 30 Lever, axle shaft anchorage.
4 Lockplate. 31 Circlip, split.
5 Nut. 32 Collar, R.H. distance.
6 Bearing, wheel.
33 Collar, o u t e r distance.
7 Ring, spacer L.H. bearing.
34 N u t , axle shaft.
8 End plate, hub.
9 Shim, end plate. 35 Cover, L.H. dust.
10 Bolt, end plate t o hub. 36 Screw.
11 Washer. 37 Washer.
12 Nut. 38 Cover, R.H. dust.
13 Box, plunger guide. 39 Plate, dust.
14 Pad, f r o n t slipper (Convex). 40 Spring, dust plate.
15 Pad, r e a r slipper (Concave). 41 Sleeve, dust p l a t e centre.
16 Shim, slipper pad. 42 Plate, anchor.
17 Screw, slipper pad. 43 Shoe, c/w l i n i n g
18 Bolt, high tensile(top r e a r and 44 Shoe, brake.
b o t t o m front). 45 Lining, shoe.
19 Bolt. 46 Rivet, l i n i n g t o shoe.
20 Washer. 47 Spring, shoe return.
21 Nut. 48 Cam, b r a k e operating.
22 Assembly, axle and guide. 49 Lever, b r a k e cam.
23 Roller, slipper. 50 Nut.
24 Sleeve, L.H. distance. 51 Spring, c a m lever return.
25 Spring, inner main. 52 Link, anchorage.
26 Spring, o u t e r main. 53 Bolt.
27 Spring, rebound. 54 Locknut.

Brake Pedal Adjuster. Unscrew the adjuster and depress the brake pedal t o
clear the brake rod from the brake lever arm.

Anchor Plate Pivot. Unscrew the t w o locknuts a t the top of the anchor plate
pivot and remove the pivot bolt.

Spindle N u t s . Remove the t w o spindle nuts and distance collars and withdraw
the wheel from the frame.

ClassicBike.biz
Dismantling Spring Wheel

Brake A n c h o r Plate. Place the wheel on the bench, brake side uppermost. Prise
ofi the spindle t o irame anchorage lever and remove the t w o split collars under-
neath. Withdraw the dust excluder centre sleeve and sliding portion. Unscrew
the dust excluder securing screws and ease the cover away. Lift the brake anchor
plate. Remove the cast-iron ring.

S l i p p e r Roller. Before t.rmoving the brake drum side slipper roller, test for
freedom of rotation and clearance at each side. If the roller rotates freely and the
clearance is n o t more than 0.002" (0.05 mm.) EACH SIDE, it will be in order t o
proceed w i t h the dismantling. Should the clearance be above the l ~ m i t make
, a note
of the dimensions t o assist rectification on assembly. After checking, remove the
slipper roller. Turn the wheel over and remove the chamfered collar and dust
excluder assembly. Remove the slipper roller, after checking, as described above.

Fig. 53. SPRING W H E E L E N D PLATE R E M O V A L

End Plate. Remove the ten nuts securing the end plates t o the hub and, using the
special l l g No. 2.66 (See Fig. 53) withdraw the end plate from the hub by tightening
the centre screw of the jig.

A l u r n l n i u r n Shims. These shims are fitted beneath the end plate and should be
counted on removal t o ensure correct clearance on re-assembly.

ClassicBike.biz
 1
I

I Dismantling Spring Wheel

II -
plunger G u i d e B o x Assembly. Withdraw the assembly from the'hub.
I
i
B r a k e D r u m and Sprocket. Bend back the four locking tabs and remove the
eight nuts securing the brake drum t o the hub. Remove the brake drum and
i sprocket and, using a suitably shaped piece of hard wood, drift o u t the brake drum
side bearing.

! End P l a t e Bearing. Tap out this bearing using a suitable soft drift.
can be facilitated by heating the back plate to approximately 100' C.
Removal

I
D I S M A N T L I N G T H E A N C H O R P L A T E ASSEMBLY
1 B r a k e Shoes. Remove the t w o springs and lift the brake shoes away.

I B r a k e C a m . Remove the brake lever arm retaining nut and drift the cam spindle
I
out, when the lever arm and spring will also be released.
i

Fig. 54. REAR S P R I N G W H E E L ( S E C T I O N E D )

135

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Dismantling Spring Wheel

D I S M A N T L I N G T H E P L U N G E R G U I D E B O X ASSEMBLY
P!unge; Eiiide Box. Remove the four outside bolts from the plunger guide box
and unscrew t h e t w o centre bolts sufficiently t o enable the cases t o be parted about
+" (1.0 cm.). Using t h e jig illustrated below, place the plunger guide box assembly
i n t o t h e jaws w i t h t h e concave side of t h e box towards the inside of t h e jig.

Tighten t h e jaws of t h e jig until the springs are sufficiently tensioned. Remove the
last t w o bolts and take off the cases. Release the jig until the tension of the springs
is released and remove the springs f r o m t h e plunger guide.

S l i p p e r Pads. If these pads show n o sign o f wear, it i s unnecessary t o remove them.

W e a r i s generally noticed o n t h e thrust side only. (Front pad on the chain side and
rear pad o n t h e opposite). To remove, unscrew t h e t w o screws holding the pad
i n position'.

Manufactured by
Messrs.
A. & E. Baines Ltd.,
Harrogate. Yorks.,
England.

Fig. 55. J I G F O R C O M P R E S S I N G PLUNGER

G U I D E B O X SPRINGS

RE-ASSEMBLING T H E P L U N G E R G U I D E BOX ASSEMBLY

R o l l e r a n d S l i p p e r Pzds. if the steel slipper pads have been removed f o r replace-
ment o r adjustment purposes, it w i l l be necessary t o assemble the plunger box, less
the springs, plates and rubber bilffers. Between t h e roller and slipper pad there
must be an equal clearance of ,002" (0.05 mm.) o n each side, t o allow for any defor-
mation of the box alter the springs have been fitted. T o enable the fitter t o obtain
t h e correct clearance, aluminium shims of .002" and ,003" (0.050 and 0.075 mm.) are
available. W h e n the pads are i n position, ensure that the screws securi-g them t o
the case are well.tightened.

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 Assembling Spring Wheel I
Springs. W h e n t h e pads have been fitted correctly t h e case should be split again
and re-assembled w i t h t h e springs. Place t h e axle and guide o n t h e bench, w i t h
the longer side o f the axle t o t h e left and t h e convex side uppermost. Lubricate and
insert t h e heavy and light springs i n t h e b o t t o m hole, w i t h t h e curvature o f the springs
conforming t o the guide. Place t h e o t h e r spring i n t h e t o p hole i n t h e same way.
F i t t h e rubber buffers and spring plates t o t h e springs, w i t h t h e plate curve con-
forming t o the guide. ,Fit the assembly i n t o t h e jig, t h e t w o springs being i n t h e
lower position. Depress t h e jig sufficiently t o allow t h e cases t o be fitted.

casings. Grease and fit t h e casings, then release t h e jig and remove t h e assembly.
ill w i t h lubricant through t h e gap i n the cases and tap t h e cases together w i t h a
hide hammer. Fir and tighten t h e six nuts and bolts. NOTE: t h e t o p rear b o l t
and t h e b o t t o m front bolt are made from H.T. steel: colour blue-black.

RE-ASSEMBLING T H E A N C H O R PLATE ASSEMBLY

B r a k e C a m Spindle. Grease t h e spindle and fit t o t h e anchor plate. Fit the

r e t u r n spring and lever arm, making certain that t h e lever arm i s i n t h e correct
position. Fit the remaining nut and tighten.

B r a k e Shoes. Place t h e brake shoes on the bench i n t h e position they w i l l occupy

i n t h e brake plate. Fit the springs and holding them i n tension, place t h e shoes over
the cam and pivot.
Press down and snap i n t o position.

RE-ASSEMBLING T H E REAR SPRING W H E E L

Bearings. Fully load t h e bearings w i t h grease (See Recommended Lubricants) and

assemble t o the back plate and brake drum. Ensure that t h e bearing chip shield i n
each case, faces towards the hub centre.

H u b S h e l l Bolts. F i t all the bolts t o each side of t h e hub shell

B r a k e D r u m . Assemble t h e brake d r u m t o t h e hub and lock t h e nuts w i t h new

locking plates.

S p r i n g B o x Assembly. Fit t h e assembly i n t o t h e hub and press well home i n t o

the brake drum side bearings.

Shims. Fit the shims t o t h e hub, making sure that as many shims are replaced, as
were removed.

E n d Plate. Replace the end plate and bearing and tighten up the nuts securely.

S l i p p e r R o l l e r , R.H. Grease t h e slipper pads and spindle on the back plate side
and fir the slipper roller.

ClassicBike.biz
Fitting Spring Wheel

D u s t E x c l u d e r Assembly, R.H. Fit the dust excluder w i t h the concave side

facing forwzrds. k s e m b l e t h e centre sleeve spring, sliding portion and chamfered
collar. T h e chamfer o n the coiiar should be towards t h e hub centre.

S l i p p e r R o l l e r , L.H. T u r n the wheel over and fit t h e distance piece over the
spindle. Grease t h e slipper pads and fit t h e slipper collar.

L a r g e C a s t Iron Ring. This r i n g should be fitted over t h e guide box case, so that
it abuts against t h e inner ring o f t h e bearing.

B r a k e A n c h o r P l a t e A s s e m b l y . H o l d t h e brake slightly towards the "ON"

position b y t u r n i n g t h e brake lever, and tit t h e anchor plate assembly t o the brake
drum.

D u s t E x c l u d e r Assembly, L.H. Replace t h e dust excluder asembly w i t h the

concave side t o t h e front and secure w i t h t h e t w o screws. Ensure that the wheel
spindle is i n i t s topmost position and the brake anchor arm facing forward. Fit the
split cotters i n t o t h e groove and t h e frame anchorage lever onto the spindle.

R E - F I T T I N G T H E W H E E L TO T H E FRAME
T h e re-fitting procedure is exactly t h e reverse of the removal, but the f i t t e r should
ensure t h a t t h e anchorage lever tits i n t o the channel o n t h e left side chain stay lug.
D u e t o r h e close p r o x i m i t y of the wheel drum, it i s not possible t o assemble the
spring l i n k w i t h .the t w o ends of t h e chain on t h e rear sprocket. To overcome this
difficulty, join t h e end: w i t h a spare link inserted from t h e outside. N o w t u r n the
wheel so r h a t t h e spring l i n k can be pressed i n f r o m the inside of the chain, pressing
o u t the spare l i n k i n the process.

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1
The Dunlop M o t o r Cycle Tyres as fitted t o all models, are of the w i r e bead type
and are fitted into a well-bare rim. The w i r e bead ensures that there w i l l be n o
stretch i n t h e t y r e and i n combination w i t h t h e well-base rim, provides for easy
fitting and removal o f t h e tyres and the safe use o f air pressures.

T Y R E PRESSURE
Tyre pressures should always be carefully maintained as an lnsuficiently inflated t y r e
i s a prevalent cause of failure of the t y r e walls. The actual pressure at which the
cyres should be maintained, i s a matter f o r experiment and depends on t h e rider's
weight and also t h e weight of a passenger and luggage i f carried.

D U N L O P RECOMMENDED T Y R E PRESSURES ( S O L O )
MODEL. TYRE SIZE. INFLATION. PRESSURE.
P.S.I. Kgms/sqr.ci~.
5T, 6 T & T l l O S W I N G I N G FORK FRONT 3.25-19 18 1.3
REAR 3.50-19 19 1.35
T.lOO S W I N G I N G FORK ... FRONT 3.25-19 17 1.2
REAR 3.50-19 19 1.35
TR.5 S W I N G I N G FORK ... FRONT 3.00-20 21 1.5
REAR 4.00-18 16 1.1

These inflation pressures are based on a rider's weight of 170 lb.

When additional weight is added, reference should be made t o the Dunlop Booklet
which advises the necessary increased inflation pressure.

EXAMINATION
Espectally during t h e period when the roads are being tarred and gritted, the tyres
should be examined periodically and any sharp pieces of stone removed from the
treads. If they are allowed t o remain, no immediate damage may be done, b u t they
w i l l later w o r k right through the cover and puncture the tube.

P U N C T U R E D REAR TYRE (RIGID FRAME MODELS)

In the event of a rear tyre puncture, it i s not necessary t o remove the wheel to
carry o u t t h e repair. As shown in Fig. 51, Page 131, w i t h t h e mudguard rear section
removed a large circumference of the wheel i s exposed, which makes it easy for the
rider t o remove one side of the tyre from the rim.
For t h e other models, the wheel must first be removed.

R E M O V I N G T H E TYRE
V a l v e C a p a n d C o r e . Unscrew the valve cap and use the specially shaped end t o
unscrew the valve core and defiare the tyre. Unscrew the knurled nut and w i t h the
valve cap and core, place the parts where they will be free from d i r t and grit.

P r e p a r a t i o n of T y r e a n d Levers. It i s advisable t o lubricate the cover beads w i t h

a l i t t l e soapy water before commencing t o remove the tyre. Levers should be
dipped in this solution before each insertion.

ClassicBike.biz
Ty res

R e m o v i n g the F i r s t Bead. Insert a lever A T THE VALVE POSITION and while

I
pulling o n chis lever, press the bead i n t o t h e w e l l of t h e r i m diametrically opposite
I
t h e valve position. Insert a second lever close t o the first and prlse the bead over
I
the r i m flange. Remove the f i r s t lever and re-insert a little further away from the
second lever. Continue round the bead i n steps of 2-3 ~nches( 5 t o 8 cms.) until the
i
bead i s away from t h e rim.

I n n e r Tube. Push t h e valve o u t of the r i m and remove the inner tube.

R e m o v i n g t h e Second Bead. Stand the wheel upright and insert a lever between
the'remaining bead and the rim. Pull the cover away from the rim.

FITTING T H E TYRE
R i m Band. Make sure that the rough side of the rubber r i m band i s fitted against
the r i m and that the band is central in the weii.

Fig. 56. IL~USTRATION S H O W I N G T H E P O S I T I O N OF T H E V A L V E

I F THE T Y R E H A S C R E P T R O U N D O N T H E R I M

ClassicBike.biz
 Removine Tvres

I n n e r Tube. Inflate the inner tube just sufficiently t o round it o c t w i t h o u t stretch,

dust it w i t h french chalk and insert it i n t o t h e cover, leaving it protruding beyond
the beads f o r about 4 inches either side of the valve.

L u b r i c a t i o n . Here again it i s a wise precaution t o lubricate t h e beads and levers

w i t h soapy water.

F i r s t Bead. Squeeze the beads together at the valve position t o prevent the tube
from slipping back inside the cover and push the cover towards the rim, threading
the valve through the valve holes i n the r i m band and rim. A l l o w the first bead t o
enter t h e well of the r i m and the other bead t o lie above the level of t h e r i m fbange.
W o r k i n g from the valve, press the f i r s t bead over the r i m flange by hand, mbving
forward i n small steps and making sure that the part of t h e bead already dealt w i t h
lies in the well of the rim. If necessary, use a tyre lever for the last few inches.

Second Bead. Press the second bead i n t o the well of the r i m diametrically opposite
the valve. Insert a lever as close as possible t o the point where the bead passes over
the flange and lever the bead into the flange. at the same t i m e pressing the fitted part
of the bead i n t o the well of the rim. Repeat until the bead i s completely over t h e
flange, finishing a t the valve position.

Valve. Push the valve inwards t o make sure that the tube near the valve i s not
trapped under the bead. Pull the valve back and inflate t h e tyre. Check that t h e
fitting line o n t h e cover i s concentric w i t h the top of the r i m flange and that the
valve protrudes squarely through the valve hole. Fit the knurled r i m n u t a , ~ dvalve,
caD.

SECURITY B O L T

The rear t y r e i s fitted w i t h a security bolt and although the basic procedure f o r
fitting and removing the tyre i s the same, t h e following additional instructions should
be followed.

REMOVING T H E TYRE

Valve C a p a n d Core. Remove as described and deflate the tyre.

S e c u r i t y B o l t a n d N u t . Unscrew the nut and push the bolt through the inside
of the cover.

F i r s t Bead. Remove as described.

Security Bolt. Remove from r i m

I n n e r Tube. Remove as described.

Second Bead. Remove as described.

ClassicBike.biz
Frame

FITTING THE TYRE

Rim Band. F i t ar described.

First Bead. F i t as described b u t w i t h o u t t h e inner tube inside.

Security Bok. F i t t o t h e rim,

I n n e r Tube. Inflate as described and fit i n t o t h e cover.

Second Bead. F i t as described b u t as the security b o l t and valve position is reached.

push t h e security b o l t well i n t o t h e cover and make sure that the inner tube is
resting o n t h e canvas flap of t h e security b o l t and n o t overlapping t h e sides.

Valve. Fit t h e valve and inflate t h e tyre. Bounce t h e wheel zt the point where
the security b o l t i s fitted and tighten t h e security b o l t nut.

FRAME
S W I N G I N G FOR#
The swinging f o r k i s pivoted t o t h e main frame by a ground, hollow spindle. T w o
phosphor bronze bushes are pressed i n t o t h e f o r k bridge lug t o provide a bearing
surface f o r t h e f o r k t o swing on. The spindle is a d r i v e fit i n t o t h e frame lug
and a w o r k i n g fit i n t h e f o r k bushes. T o retain the spindle in position, a r o d is
passed through t h e hollow i n t h e spindle and a t each end a retainer cap is made
captive, by a n u t screwed o n t h e r o d end. Between t h e bridge lug and frame lug
o n the R.H. side, a spacing washer i s fitted i n order t o obtain t h e clearance which
should be between .OOOSa. 0.0065" (0.013 - 0.16 mrn.). A grease nipple i s fitted t o
t h e frame t o provide access f o r grease t o t h e bearing by means of a grease gun.
(See Routine Mai~tenance).

Under average conditions the life of the bearing bushes i s approximately 20.000 miles
(30,030 kms.). The operation required t o replace the bushes i s of a major type which
calls for t h e removal oI t h e primary chaincase assembly, gearbox covers, rear wheel
and mudguard assembly. If the private owner attempts this w o r k , he should ensure
that he has suffirient tools available t o complete the work. Details of rernoving t h e
above mentioned parts w i l l be found by referring t o the index on page 210.

GlRLlNG SUSPENSION DAMPER UNITS

These units are completely self-contained and are known under the type number
S/MDA/4/4, which should always be referred t o in any correspondence.

During the n o r h a l life o f the u n i t t h e maintenance i s negligible: such parts as t i l e

main spring and rubber bushes can be easily changed by the owner, but shr.:ld t h e
hydraulic u n i t be suspected, no attempt should be made t o dismantle it. The
complete units should be returned to a Lucas-Girling Depot o r the manufacturers.
where a service unit can be obtained, o r the fault in the suspected unit rectified.

ClassicBike.biz
 Fig. 57. G l R L l N G H Y D R A U L I C S U S P E N S I O N UNIT

I N D E X TO FIG. 57. G i R L l N G HYDP,AULIC S U S P E N S I O N UNIT.

Index Index
No. Description. No. Description.

1 Damper unit. 5 ~ e t a i n e r spring.

,
2 Spring, suspension. 6 Bush, rubber bearlng.
3 D i r t shield, upper. 7 Sleeve, bearing bush.
4 D i r t shield, lower. 8 Cam, spring abutment.

ClassicBike.biz
Changing Girling Spring Units

TO I N C R E A S E T H E S T A T I C S P R I N G R A T E
If additional weight i s added t o the rear of the machine such as a heavy pillion
passenger and pannier equipment w i t h luggage, the swinging fork member will
position itself above the horizontal. This condition w i l l reduce the springing effect
and t o overcome it, ahe main spring poundage in the damper unit can be increased
by turning the spring abutment cam (see Fig. 57) with the 'C' spanner (supplied in
the toolkit) t o engage the second position, or, if necessary the third position.

C H A N G I N G T H E SPRINGS
DISMANTLING
U n i t F i x i n g Bolts. Remove the top and bottom bolts when the unit can be detached.

D u s t Cover. Secure the bottom eye between vice jaws on the side faces (protect
the jaws with aluminium clamps). Grip and depress the cover sufficiently to enable
the removal of the split spring retainer collars.

Spring. Remove the dust cover and spring

ASSEMBLY
The assembly i s carried out in exactly the revetse order t o the dismantling sequence
but the following observations should be careluily noted.

Springs. Before replacing, lubricate w i t h high melting point grease

D u s t Covers. Ensure that these are not damaged and are completely free from
any foreign matter. Either would cause noisy operation of the unit.

U n i t Piston Rod. Do not lubricate w i t h either oil o r grease but ensure that the
rod i s perfectly clean.

Checking U n i t O p e r a t i o n . The piston rod should not be operated with the

unit in the upside down position. The movement must be checked in the working
position, otherwise air w i l l pass into the pressure tube causing the oil to emulsify,
resulting i n inefficient damping until the unit rectifies itself

M A X I M U M MOVEMENT
The stroke of the units i s 3 i " (9.84 cmr.) and this allows for approximately 16"
(8.0 mm.) compression of the bump rubber.

ClassicBike.biz
 TWISTGRIP CONTRO

rw0
types o f twistgrip are employed, one hav~ngthe normal quick action and t h e
(which i s fitted t o the TR5 only), a progressive action which gives t h e com-
r i d e r more t h r o t t l e control at l o w speeds. I n each case t h e damping of
[he r o t o r is controlled by a knurled adjuster n u t fitted i n t h e twistgrip. To increase
[he damping, screw i n t h e adjuster until t h e friction is sufficient t o hold t h e r o t o r
i n any position. Remember that the twistgrip w i l l close immediately t h e
hand is removed t o give a road signal i f t h e damping device is n o t sufficiently adjusted.
Maintenance o f t h e twistgrip calls only for light grease lubrication when assembled.

D I S M A N T L I N G (ST, 6T, T I W & T110)

Cable T h i m b l e . Unscrew the thimble from t h e twistgrip head. This I s usually
made easier by pulling on the cable adjacent t o t h e twistgrip. W h e n unscrewed,
the cable simply pulls out of the twistgrip.

R o t o r Sleeve. Pull back the twistgrip rubber using a pair o f thin, round nosed
pliers. Remove t h e circlip from t h e head when t h e r o t o r sleeve assembly can be
withdrawn.

Head. Slacken t h e grub screw is-h~chsecures t h e head t o the handlebar and

withdraw the head.

ASSEMBLY
R o t o r Sleeve t o H e a d . These can be replaced before assembling t o the handlebar.
Lightly grease r o t o r end ring and fit t h e r o t o r sleeve i n t o t h e head w i t h the nipple
housing adjacent t o the cable hole.

Slide t h e retaining plate into position and assemble t h e circlip t o the head. Roll
back the rubber grip. If a new rubber i s t o be fitted, f i r s t w e t t h e inside w i t h p e t r o l
and then push it smartly over the sleeve. This job i s done better after t h e twistgrip
has been fitted t o the handlebar.

T w i s t g r i p t o H a n d l e b a r . Grease the swaged portion of the handlebar and slide

on the twistgrip; lock in the desired position w i t h the grub screw.

T h r o t t l e Cable. Holding the outer casing, pull t h e inner wire, gripping it close to
the cable ferrule w i t h a pair of soft nosed pliers. W i t h the other hand rotate t h e
twistgrip sleeve t o the closed position, thread the nipple end of the w i r e i n t o the
head and slowly rotate the sleeve when the nipple housing w i l l locate the nipple.
When located, replace the thimble cable over the w i r e and screw i n t o the head.

DISMANTLING (TR5)
H e a d C l a m p Screws. Remove the t w o screws when the t w o halves o f the head
can be taken away.

R o t o r Sleeve. Disconnect the cable nipple and withdraw the sleeve from t h e
handlebar.

ClassicBike.biz
Twistgrip

Fig. 58. T W I S T G R I P (ST, 6T, TIM & T110)

I N D E X TO FIG. 58. T W I S T G R I P (ST, 6 ~ T, I M & ~ 1 1 0 )

Index lndex
No. Description. No. Description.

1 H e a d assembly. 6 G u i d e tube.
2 Plate. retaining.
7 G r u b screw.
3 Circlip.
4 Sleeve assembly. 8 Grip, rubber.
5 T h i m b l e , cable. 9 Screw, f r i c t i o n adjuster.

ASSEMBLY
R o t o r Sleeve. Grease the handlebar and slide on the rotor sleeve

T h r o t t l e Cable. Fit the wire nipple t o the rotor sleeve.

Head. Assemble top and bottom halves t o the handlebar and rotor sleeve. Enter
the clamp screws and position the cable guide tube into the recessed portion of the
twistgrip halves; fully tighten the t w o clamp screws.

ClassicBike.biz
 II
Twistgrip
I
I

I 5

II i

I Fig. 59. T W l S T G R l P (TRS)

!

I N D E X TO FIG. 59. T W I S T G R I P (TRS)

Index index
No. Description. No. Description.

1 H e a d assembly, p l a i n half. 5 Screw, head clamp.

2 H e a d assembly, t h r e a d e d 6 G r u b screw.
half. 7 Locknut.
3 Screw, f r i c t i o n adjuster. 8 Screw, stop.
4 Sleeve, assembly. 9 Grip, rubber.

G r u b Screw. Lock the twistgrip in the desired position by screwing down the
grub screw between the t w o clamp screws.

R o t o r Sleeve Stop. Adjacent t o the knurled damper screw Is a small screw and
nut and by slackening the nut and screwing in the screw the r o t o r i s arrested earlier
when in the closed position, thus leaving t h e throttle valve slightly open.

ClassicBike.biz
Fitting a Sidecar

PETROL TAP ADJUSTMENT -

T o make an adjustment, replacement o r repair t o either type of petrol tap the petrol
must b e drained from the tank.

P u s h - p u l l Type. T o adjust a leaking tap, first remove the grub screw locking the
plunger t o t h e body, when t h e plunger assembly can be removed. G r i p the plunger
end i n a suitable t o o l and t u r n t h e plunger knob i n a clockwise direction; this expands
t h e c o r k washer and w i l l make a p e t r o l t i g h t fit when replaced in the petrol tap body.
If t h e c o r k has deteriorated t o any degree, a new cork can be fitted at a very low cost.

T a p e r T y p e . Remove the faulty tap and dismantle; take o u t the split pin, remove
the washer, spring back plate and w i t h d r a w the spindle and lever assembly. Clean
t h e body and spindle and then apply a smear of fine grinding-in paste t o the spindle,
add a l i t t l e o i l and rotate the spindle in t h e tap body using the same motion as when
grinding-in t h e valves. W h e n a t r u e surface i s obtained, wash the pans thoroughly
i n p e t r o l and apply tallow fat t o t h e spindle before assembly. Check the tension of
t h e spring and i f insufficient stretch slightly.

FITTING A SIDECAR
( R I G I D FRAME MODELS)

(also see Supplement)

First t h e motorcycle must be prepared f o r sidecar use. Fork springs of the heavier
t y p e must b e fitted t o counteract t h e additional load placed on the forks.
The extra load w i l l make it necessary t o reduce the gear ratios t o obtain maximum
performance. T o carry out this modification the engine sprocket should be changed
f o r one giving t h e gear ratios required (see Technical Data, pages 6 t o 9).
T w o sidecar fittings only are supplied by us, one fitting o n the r e a r chain stays
immediately i n f r o n t of the rear wheel spindle and t h e other at the front engine
plate r o frame bolts. These fittings are adaptable for nearly all sidecars; all other
fittings are obtainable f r o m the sidecar manufacturers.

W h e n t h e machine i s prepared, attach t h e sidecar t o the f r o n t and rear lugs and

tighten up t h e universal joints, b u t not t h e clip pinch bolts. Adjust the sliding
tubes through t h e lugs so that t h e sidecar i s as close t o the machine a possible:
this prevents excessive drag. Keep t h e f r o n t and rear tubes of the sidecar parallel
to t h e ground and t h e nose elevated sufilciently t o overcome any tendency t o drag
when t h e o u t f i t i s taken round a right-hand bend at speed. The next point t o
check i s t h e amount of toe-in. T o d o this, t w o parallel aligning sticks are required

ClassicBike.biz
 .

I - Cleaning Motorcycle
I
I
I o f sufficient length t o extend beyond f r o n t and rear wheels o f thb machine. &
P;I one
i stick along t h e off-side o f t h e machine allowing it t o touch t h e wall o f t h e rear tyre,
etrol :'
allowance being made at t h e f r o n t t y r e f o r the difference i n size. N o w place t h e
iI o t h e r stick alongside t h e sidecar .wheel i n similar fashion. Measure t h e distance
!the ' between t h e sticks immediately at t h e rear of the motorcycle rear wheel. Check
I nger t h e measurement at t h e front and adjust until ;he reading is $' less than t h e rear
I ands measurement. Tighten u p t h e clip connections. It is n o w t i m e t o attach t h e third,

mody. and i f fitted, t h e fourth point connection.

II cost. H e r e again leave the clip pinch bolts loose. Set t h e machine slightly o u t .af t h e
love vertical, leaning away f r o m t h e sidecar about 5 degrees, then tighten all fittings.

I 'lean Test t h e o u t f i t on the road w i t h a passenger i n the sidecar o r an equivalent load

~dle, and ascertain i t s steering qualities. i f possible use a road w i t h a flat surface; i f n o t
available use t h e crown o f t h e road. If t h e outfit pulls t o one side o f t h e road o r
I ,hen
1 ghly t h e other, check the amount of toe-in again and make sure that the sidecar wheel is

n of as near as possible in alignment w i t h the rear wheel of t h e machine. Should t h e

sidecar have a tendency t o lift easily o n left hand bends, lean the machine m o r e t o
i
1 t h e vertical.

If these few precautions are taken during fitting, the rider w i l l be amply repaid i n
comfort and a reduction i n general wear and tear.

CLEANING MOTORCYCLE
'ier
ks. A clean motorcycle n o t only gives pride of ownership, but also assists the owner
Jm i n maintaining his machine i n first class condition.
.ed
There are o n t h e market extremely good cleaning solvents l o r removing oil and
9).
road d i r t f r o m the exterior of the machine, and they can be obtained f r o m most
'Y s
ne accessory dealers. The preparation should be applied w i t h a 1" paint brush t o t h e
er machine which must be d r y and about 5 minutes allowed t o elapse i n o r d e r that
it can penetrate the oily surfaces. It should then be washed off w i t h water f r o m a
watering can; the reason the latter i s used i s t o enable t h e operator t o direct a
controlled stream of water thus avoiding trouble such as water i n the brakes and
ignition faults. If the air cleaner i s disconnected the carburetter should be suitably
covered t o stop any ingress of water. After completion of this w o r k t h e surplus
moisture should be removed w i t h a chamois leather, and when all surfaces are d r y
a good polish should be applied. For a quick finish a liquid cleaner called "FLAZPOL"
gives excellent results and i s also a good preservative. For a lasting finish a good
wax polish should be used and at each stage of the cleaning, always use soft dusters

ClassicBike.biz
Amal Carburetter

AMAL CARBURETTER
(Models 5T. TR5, TI00 & TttO)

The AMAL needle jet carburetter i s fitted t o all the above mentioned models and,
unltxs the machine is t o be used for some special purpose, we strongly recommend
that the settings are not interfered with. The settings are arrived at after careful
experiment and It is unlikely that a different setting will improve the fuel con-
sumption, o r increase the maximum power output. Alternative settings are however
listed for the models TI00 & TI10 when the air f i l t e r is disconnected.

During the early life of the machine it is advisable t o remove the float bowl and
clean it out occasionally t o prevent the jets becoming blocked. A common cause of
erratic running at low speeds, explosions i n the silencers and poor pick-up when
accelerating i s a CHOKED SLOW RUNNING ORlFlCE IN THE JET BLOCK. T o
remedy this fault, the carburetter mixing chamber must be completely dismantled
and the jet block withdrawn t o gain access t o the orifice. To clear, push a thin
strand of wire through the hole t o dislodge any foreign matter. Wash the jet block
i n petrol and dry off w i t h pressure air t o ensure that all passage ways are perfectly
clear.

OPERATION OF CARBURETTER PARTS

T h r o t t l e Stop Screw. This screw should be set t o open the throttle sufficiently
t o keep the engine running a t a low tick over when the twistgrip i s shut off.

P i l o t Air Screw. To set the idling mixture, this screw should be set in or our t o
enrich o r weaken, normal number of turns is about 2f. The screw controls the
suction on the pilot petrol jet by metering the amount of air which mixes with the
petrol.

N e e d l e and N e e d l e Jet. A tapered needle is attached t o the throttle and either

allows more o r less petrol t o pass through the needle jet as the throttle i s opened
o r closed throughout the range, trcept when idling o r nearly full throttle.

The taper needle position in relation t o the throttle opening can be set according t o
the mixture required by fixing it t o the throttle with the needle clip spring in a
certain groove, thus either raising o r lowering it. Raising the needle enriches the
mixture; lowering it weakens the mixture at throttle openings from a quarter t o
three quarters open. Machines are delivered from the factory with the needle in
the fourth notch from the top, and the needle should be lowered t o the middle notch
after 1,000 miles (1,500 Kms.).

T h r o t t l e Valve Cut-Away. The atmospheric side of the throttle i s cut away t o

influence the depression on the main fuel supply and thus gives a means d tuning
between the pilot and needle j e t range of throttle opening. The amount of cut-away
i s recorded by a nunlber marked on the throttle viz., 613 means throttle type 6 with
No. 3 cut-away; larger cut-aways. say 4 and 5 give weaker mixture and 2 and 1 richer
mixtures.

ClassicBike.biz
CLICK SPRING

SPRING BARREL

-THROTTLE SPRING
AIR SLIDE SPRING

THROTTLE SLIDE

STOP SCREW

LOCK SCREW

AIR SCREW

'+
NEEDLE JET

7
MAIN JET

UNION N U T

FLOAT NEEDLE j/ es-'

a HOLDING BOLT

Fig. 60. A M A L C A R B U R E ~ E R

151

ClassicBike.biz
Air Filter

S w i n g i n g Arm F r a m e Models. T o service t h e filter o n these models, t h e o i l tank

must first be detached. This operation necessitates t h e removal of t h e three fixing
bolts and disconnection of the o i l pipes. Disconnect t h e r u b b e r sleeve and remove
t h e air filter.

T o remove t h e element on t h e "D" shaped filter, unscrew t h e t w o screws securing

t h e cover, when t h e latter can be removed and t h e element extracted. The "fiat"
type, simply remove the cover t o which t h e element i s attached.

Every 5000 m i l e s (3,000 kms.), t h e filter element should b e removed and washed
i n petrol until all road dust is extracted. Put t h e element i n a convenient place t o
d r y ofi. In extreme conditions (dust, sand, etc.) rhis servicing should be at m o r e
frequent intervals. W h e n dry, re-oil t h e element w i t h "Vokes Trifiltrene" filter
oil. If this is unobtainable SAE 20 grade o i l may be used.

The f i l t e r element should be changed every 10,000 miles (15.000 kms.) and i n countries
where dusty conditions prevail t h e change should be made at m o r e frequent intervals.
This procedure i s most important as a choked filter w i l l cause loss of performance
and heavy petrol consumption.

The maximum power output w i t h t h e air filter attached, i s very l i t t l e affected, b u t

i f t h e absolute maximum i s required f o r t h e T100 & T110 models, remove the rubber
sleeve and increase the main jet as follows:-
TI00 & TR5 ... ... Replace 220 w i t h 240
T I 1 0 ... ... ... Replace 250 w i t h 270
DO N O T remove the f i l t e r sleeve from t h e S.U. carburetter (See page 155 f o r
further information).

I N D E X TO FIG. 62. A I R FILTER

index
No. Description.

1 F i l t e r assembly.
2 E l e m e n t w i t h cover.
3 Connection, sleeve t o f i l t e r
(rubber).

Fig. 62. A I R FILTER

ClassicBike.biz
 T H E S.U. M.C.2. C A R B U R E T T E R *

ADJUSTMENT A N D T U N I N G

The S.U. Carburetter is o f t h e automatically expanding type In which t h e cross

sectional area o f t h e air passage and the effective orifice of t h e jet are variable.

The choice of t h e needle which governs t h e effective orifice of the jet is settled for a
particular engine after considerable testing, both on t h e engine test bed and after-
wards o n Road Test, w i t h Premium Grade Petrols, and it i s not, therefore, a-common
requirement that t h e needle type should be changed from the maker3< original
specification. L o w grade and alcohol blended petrols may require the substitution
of a richer than standard needle.

If any doubt arises as t o the correctness of the type fitted, this can be checked by
first removing t h e suction chamber and then slackening the side needle screw when
the needle can be pulled out and i t s markings by numbers o r letters checked. These
identifying letters and numbers may be rolled round the shank, o r stamped o n t h e
flat end o f it. If, therefore, an alteration t o the mixture strength i s required this needle
alone should be changed, as a l l jets are of standard size and 2s THE JET ADJUSTING
N U T IS FOR SETTING THE IDLING ONLY.

It is most important that the needle i s fitted w i t h its shoulder FLUSH W I T H THE
FACE O F THE PISTON, as shown in the diagram.

When detaching t h e suction chamber and piston assembly from the main carburetter
body (necessary when checking o r changing the needle) it w i l l be necessary t o
remove t h e O I L CAP. After t h e t w o side screws have been removed lift t h e
assembly off t h e carburetter body. This w i l l call for a certain amount of manual
dexterity, as t h e suction chamber can only be lifted a limited amount. One hand
i s required t o l i f t t h e suction piston upwards inside the chamber against t h e piston
spring, whilst t h e other steadies the suction chamber. The complete u n i t can then
be moved sideways, clear o f the main instrument, but great care must be taken t o
see that t h e JET NEEDLE IS N O T BENT.

When re-fitting the suction chamber and piston the procedure is, of course, reversed,
and the piston should be held as high up as possible inside the suction chamber
whilst the assembly i s guided carefully Into the piston bore and jet i n the main body.
A slot i n t h e small piston diameter registers w i t h a riveted brass guide i n the body.

Tuning the carburetter, which should only be carried out after the engine has reached
i t s normal running temperature, i s confined t o correct.idling adjustment by means of
the t h r o t t l e stop screw, which governs the amount of throttle.opening for IDLING
SPEED. and t h e jet adjusting nut (18) which controls the IDLING MIXTURE.
Screwing this n u t up weakens the mixture and down enriches it.

NOTE. This n u t must not be forced, as this may set the jet OH centre

* All references to numbers in the script apply to Fig. 64 only.

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S.U. Corburetter

Fig. 63. S . U . CARBURETTER ( C O M P O N E N T PARTS)

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 ~ ~

I N D E X TO FIG. 63. S.U. CARBURETTER ( C O M P O N E N T 'PARTS)

Index
Description. No. Description,
-
33 P i v o t pin, long.
2 Adaptor, t h r o t t l e barrel. 34 P i v o t pin, short.
3 Screw, adaptor t o body. 35 Bolt.
4 Gasket, adaptor t o body. 36 Washer, fibre.
5 Abutment, t h r o t t l e cable. 37 Washer, spring.
6 Screw. . 38 Washer.
7 Screw, plug 2 B.A. 39 Nut.
8 Washer. 40 S p l i t pin.
9 Chamber, suction complete. .41 Spring, r e t u r n .
10 Spring. piston. 42 Chamber, float.
11 Washer, thrust. 43 Lid, float chamber.
12 Screw, needle. 44 Float.
13 Needle, jet. 45 'Needle and seat.
14 Screw. 46 Lever, hinged.
15 Washer, spring. 47 Pin, hinge.
16 Washer, o i l cap. 48 Washer, fibre.
17 Oil cap, octagonal. 49 Washers, 2-fibre, 1-brass.
18 Jet. 50 Washer, float chamber lid.
19 Screw, jet. St B o l t , holding.
20 Bearing, jet t o p half. 52 N u t , float chamber lid.
21 Bearing, j e t b o t t o m half. 53 Cap, brass.
22 Washer. copper. 54 T h r o t t l e spindle.
23 Washer. copper. 56 Disc, t h r o t t l e .
24 Ring, sealing (Brass). 57 Screw.
25 Ring. sealing (Cork). 59 Lever, t h r o t t l e .
26 Washer, gland (Brass). 60 Bolt.
27 Wasber, gland (Cork). 61 Nut.
28 Spring. 62 Washer.
29 Nut, adjusting. 63 Screw, adjusting.
30 Spring. 64 Spring, adjusting screw lock.
31 Lever, jet. 65 Spring, l e v e r r e t u r n .
32 Link, jet.

W A R N I N G . Move one "flat" of the nut round at a time and remember t o apply
slight downward pressure on the i e t lever t o ensure that the jet fcllows the adjusting
nut. as the j e t lsuer spring (Pt. No. 4872;:) i s not strong enough t o do this itself
(as in c a r practice), i t s sole purpose beir.g t o retain the jet against vibration in the
position se: by the rider. Three "flats" in eirher direction should be sufficient t o
identify progress; excess movement would indicate an air leak in r h i induction
system o r an ignition fault.

A correct idling mixture gives an even beat with a colourless exhaust-too rich a
mixture gives a t r a c e of black in the exhaust with a rhythmical o r regurar misfire-
too +ygak a mixture gives a splashy irregular type of misfire with a marked tendency
t o stop.

9 r7

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 OIL-THREE DROPS MONTHLY
I

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THROTTLE DISC

-v-
FIBRE FRICTION
WASHERS
 I DEFECTS IN O P E R A T I O N
When the engine runs erratically, faults other than carburation can be contributory
causes. Before interfering with the carburetter, the following possibilities should
be considered :-

Compression-Equal pressure i n both cylinders; check tappet clearances.

$4
I.
(0)

r (b) Moisture condensation (water)-Examine float chamber and H.T. cables.

i (c) Ignition System-Inspect the distributor points, clean and adjust i f necessary.
,;:
"' Contact breaker and condenser condition is most imponant. Sparking plugs should
i; be cleaned and re-gapped (See Technical Data) and pressure tested. Correct timing
!;
!'
:,.
i s vital t o good idling. in particular excessive advance and faulty operation of the
i .. automatic mechanism must be recrified.
..
(d) Check for air leaks:-
!
(i) Between the MANIFOLD and CYLINDER HEAD.
(ii) Between the MANIFOLD and CARBURETTER.
(iii) Between the T W O HALVES of the CARBURETTER.
(iv) At the SUCTION CHAMBER CAP.
If, however, the engine and ignition are found t o be faultless the following points

-
should be checked on the carburetter:-

:v)
tP
-
!2 STICKING O F PISTON
The symptoms here are either stalling and a refusal of the engine t o run slowly or,
! alternatively, lack of power accompanied by excessive fuel consumption. This
!
defect is easily detectable. When the engine is not running the piston should rest
:'
,. upon the bridge (28). When raised by the hand through the air intake, the p i s t ~ n
!.
should drop freely and strike the bridge sharply and distinctly. T o do this the filter
rubber connection must f i r s t be removed.

If it becomes prematurely arrested in i t s downward movement, o r appears unduly

reluctant t o break away from its position of rest on the bridge when an attempt is
made t o raise it from this position, the jet should be lowered by means of its lever,
and the test repeated.

1 If the symptoms persist, it can be assumed that either the large diameter of the
1 piston is making contact with the bore of the suction chamber, o r the small diameter
w i t h the carburetter body, o r that the piston rod is not sliding freely within its bush.
I When, on the other hand, sticking has been eliminated by the act of lowering the jet,
i
the indication is that the needle i s binding on the jet either due t o its being bent o r
t o the latter being out of centre. Normally the needle should never touch the jet
orifice when correctly assembled.
I
(if visual evidence clearly indicates needle wear and jet ovality, both should be
renewed).

Rectification should be conducted as follows according t o the diagnosis:-

DIRT OR CONTACT BETWEEN THE PISTON A N D SUCTION CHAMBER, O R
STICKING OF THE PISTON ROD IN ITS BUSH.

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Maintenance S.U. Corburetter

If d i r t o r corrosion of t h e suction chamber, piston o r piston r o d is responsible then

t h e parts should be cleaned w i t h a solvent such as petrol, thinners, degreasing fluid
o r alcohol, b u t n o abrasive material should be used. They should be re-assembled
d r y and clean w i t h O I L ON T H E PISTON R O D ONLY. If, o n the other hand,
there is metxllic contacr t h e high spot may be removed w i t h a scraper PROVIDED
THAT THE GREATES? CARE is TAKEN; INDISCRIMINATE SCRAPING WILL
RENDER T H E PARTS SCRAP.

B e n t Needle or incorrectly centred Jet

A bent needle should be replaced as straightening is seldom satisfactory, and an
incorrectly centred jet should be re-centred according t o the instructions given
below. In either case contact between these t w o parts i s likely t o have caused wear
and b o t h may have t o be replaced.

LUBRICATION
EVERY M O N T H , o r as frequently as may be found necessary, remove the plastic o i l
cap from the t o p o f t h e suction chamber and thoroughly o i l the piston rod and guide
bush assembly w i t h thin machine oil.

W h e n the o i l cap and joint washer have been replaced, ensure that the cap i s FIRMLY
SCREWED D O W N . A n a i r leak at this point would upset the automatic operation
of the piston i n t h e suction chamber, causing a rich setting and loss of speed.

ECCENTRICITY
Re-centring of t h e jet in relation t o the needle w i l l be necessary should the jet have
become laterally displaced in service due t o inadequate tightening of the locking
screw (IS), o r any other cause. This operation w i l l of course, also be necessary if
t h e l e t and i t s associated parts have been removed for any reascn. Before proceeding
as described i n the next paragraph, f i r s t t r y turning the jet round 180° as, if,the jet
head has been connected to t h e mixture lever i n a different place t o that at which
it was originally "centred" t h e action of the piston w i l l be restricted.

The procedure f o r re-centring the jet is as follows~-

The jet adjusting n u t (18) should first be screwed upwards t o i t s fullest extent,
THE JET HEAD T H E N BEING RAISED TO C O N T A C T I T so that the jet assumes i t s
highest possible position. The locking screw (15) should now be loosened sufficiently
t o release the jet and t h e jet bush assembly (5), (13). (14), e t c :and permit this t o be
moved laterally.

A moderate side loading applied t o the !ower protruding part octhe lower jet bush
(14). w i l l indicate whether o r n o t the assembly has been sufficiently freed. The
piston should now be raised and, maintaining the jet i n i t s highest position, allowed
t o drop. This w i l l cause the needle t o move the jet gradually but positively i n t o
pzdtion, and thus bring about the required centralisation.

The locking screw should n o w be tightened and the jet returned t o i t s former
position. Should any indication of contact between the needle and the jet persist,
which may sometimes occur due t o further displacement of t h e assembly on finally
tightening the locking screw, this must again be slackened OH and the operation
repeated.

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 S.U. Carburerrer I

F L O O D I N G F R O M F L O A T C H A M B E R O R MOUTH O F J E T
Flooding may occur due t o a punctured float, o r t o d i r t between the float chamber
needle valve and its seating. T o remedy either defect, t h e float chamber l i d should
be removed and t h e necessary cleaning, float replacement o r repair effected. T h e
needle and seating u n i t number i s T2, t o identify which t w o r i n g grooves are machined
around t h e seating.
Flooding may also occur i f t h e original manufacturer's setting o f the hinged f o r k lever
(11) i n t h e t o p o f t h e float chamber has been disturbed, possibly causing t h e petrol
level t o be higher than noimal, this higher level giving a slow petrol bleed over t h e
jet bridge. The setting figure f o r this f o r k i s that w i t h t h e f o r k pressing t h e needle
home o n i t s seating, a (9.5 mm.) diameter test bar should just slide easily between
the curve o f t h e f o r k and t h e circular facing of the float lid casting.
Flooding may also be caused by a bad seal between the float needle and its seating.
and w h i c h may sometimes be restored by giving the needle a few light taps wyth a
delicate instrument such as the handle of a screwdriver.:
R O U G H H A N D L I N G W I L L RENDER THE PARTS SCRAP.

Leakage f r o m b o t t o m o f Jet
If persistent slow leakage i s observed in the neighbourhood of the jet head, it i s
probable t h a t t h e jet gland washer (7) and i t s lower counterpart, together w i t h the
locking screw washer (19) require replacement. The jet lever (23) should f i r s t be
detached f r o m t h e jet head, the locking screw (15) removed, and the entire jet and
jet bush a s s ~ m b l ywithdrawn. O n re-assembly, great care should be taken t o
replace all parts i n their correct situations, as shown i n the diagram. Re-centring
of t h e jet, as previously described, w i l l of course be necessary after this operation.

H I N T S A N D TIPS
I
L

These are a few o f the points t o which the Owner should pay particular attention i n
order to maintain minimum fuel consumption and maximum power.
1. T h e F l o a t C h a m b e r . If rough running and poor idling are suddenly ex-
perienced, t h e internal float chamber condition i s usually responsible. To overcome
this t r o u b l e remove the float chamber every t w o months and thoroug,hly cleali.
W h e n replacing, do not overtighten the lid sleeve nut as this w i l l cause distortion
and leakage of fuel a t the joint between lid and float chamber.
2. A i r Leaks. Leakage a t the manifold t o engine and carburetter t o manifold
w i l l completely upse: the smooth performance of the engine.
3. S t i c k i n g Piston. D i r t , corrosion o r malalignment of the j e t w i l l cause the
piston t o stick. Make sure that :he suction chamber w d p i ~ o nare perfectly d r y
and clean, and that t h e PISTON ROD, which must move freely i n i t s bush. IS OILED.
Before attempting t o re-centre the jet t r y the effect of turning it through 180'. 11
may have been replaced i n the opposite position, i n the mixture lever.
4. T h r o t t l e Spindle. Overstressing the t h r o t t l e spindle torsion return spring i s J.

common fault. This causes the coils t o bind before fuil t h r o t t l e i s attained, and
disturb t h e whole mechanism. Incorrect ~ o s i t i o n i n gof the moiable throttle le\er
may d o t h e same.

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S.U. Corburetter

LUBRICATE THROTTLE CABLE TO ENSURE SMOOTH AND POSITIVE

THROTTLE OPERATION.

5. Plastic Cap. Do not forget to fit the washer, as the spindle can foul the cap
before full lift occurs, resulcing in restricted power. Always use the correct part,
a car type (with a hole in) will N O T do.

6. Piston Spring. Do not mutilate the spring by stretching, otherwise the

performance and fuel consumption of the motorcycle will be adversely affected.
If in doubt regarding the spring pressure a new one of the correct type should be
fitted.

Make sure that the ignition control i s working properly, that the timing i s correct
and, in particular, that it i s not over advanced-especially a t idling.

AIR FILTER
THE AIR FILTER SHOULD NOT BE DISCONNECTED I N A N ATTEMPT TO
INCREASE THE MAXIMUM SPEED OF THE MACHINE. THE CARBURETTER
AND AIR FILTER ARE DESIGNED TO GIVE MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY AND, I N
FACT, THE REMOVAL OF THE FILTER WlLL IMPAIR GENERAL PERFORMANCE
AS THE CARBURETTER IS EXPOSED TO ROAD DUST AND OTHER FOREIGN
MATTER. IF THE AIR FILTER I S NOT CONNECTED THERE IS A LIKELIHOOD
THAT THE FREEDOM OF THE PISTON IN THE SUCTION CHAMBER WlLL BE
RESTRICTED. ITS FREE MOVEMENT IS VITAL T O THE SATISFACTORY
OPERATION O F T H E CARBURETTER, OF THE ENGINE A N D , THERE-
FORE, OF THE WHOLE MOTORCYCLE.

Fig. 65. DYNAMO (Model E3L).

162

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 1 D Y N A M O LIGHTING A N D MAGNETO IGNITION
It
1 DYNAMO
O u t p u t C o n t r o l . The dynamo works i n conjunction w i t h a regulator u n i t t o
give compensated voltage control. Although combined structurally, t h e regulator
and cut-out are electrically separate. Both are accurately adjusted during manu-
facture and should n o t be tzmpered with.

The regulator provides a completely automatic control. It ca9es the dynamo t o

give an o u t p u t which varie's according t o the load o n the battery and i t s state ofcharge.
W h e n t h e battery is discharged, t h e dynamo gives a high output, b u t i f t h e battery i s
fully charged then the dynamo gives only a trickle charge so as t o keep t h e battery
i n good condition. I n addition t o controlling the output of t h e dynamo according
t o t h e condition of the battery, t h e regulator provides f o r an increase of o u t p u t t o
balance t h e current taken by the lamps when i n use.

The cut-out i s an automatic switch which connects the dynamo t o the battery only
when the dynamo voltage exceeds tlie battery voltage, o r conversely, which dis-
connects t o prevent t h e battery discharging through the dynamo windings.

The dynamo o u t p u t is accurately set t o suit the requirements of the motorcycle and
i n normal service the battery w i l l be kept i n a good condition. If due t o special
running conditions i t i s found that the battery i s not kept i n a charged condition o r
i s being overcharged, the regulator should be re-set by a Lucas Service D e p o t o r
Agent. Accurate measuring equipment i s required t o set t h e regulator correctly.

A m m e t e r Readings. Normally, during day t i m c r u n n i n g when t h e battery is i n

good condition, t h e dynamo gives only a trickle charge so that the ammeter needle
m o u l d show only a small deflection t o the " j"side of the scale.

A discharge reading should be observed immediately after switching on t h e head-

1 lamp. This usually happens after a long run when the battery voltage is high. A f t e r
a short t i m e the battery voltage w i l l drop and the regulator w i l l respond, causing
the dynamo o u t p u t t o balance t h e lamp load.
I
L u b r i c a t i o n . N o lubrication is required t o these models as ball bearings are fitted
at b o t h ends. These bearings are packed w i t h grease,during assembly and w i l l
last u n t i l t h e machine i s taken down for a general overhaul.

I n s p e c t i o n o f B r u s h g e a r a n d C o m m u t a t o r . Every six months, remove t h e

commutator cover and inspect the brurhgear and commutator. The brushes, which
are held i n boxes by means of springs, must make firm contact w i t h t h e commutator.
Move each brush t o see that it i s fre; t o slide i n i t s holder; i f it sticks, remove it and
clean w i t h a cloth moistened w i t h petrol. Care must be taken t o replace t h e brushes
in t h e i r original position, otherwise they w i l l not "bed" properly o n the commutator.
i f after long service t h e brushes have become worn t o such an extent that they w i l l
not bear properly o n t h e commutator they must be replaced. Always use genuine
Lucar; brushes, which should be fitted by a Service Agent so that they can be properly
bedded t o t h e commutator.

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 ::TpTAIL
Fig. 66. W I R I N G DIAGRAM (TI00 & T11Q

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- I Dynamo Maintenance

Examine the commutator, which should be free f r o m any trace of o i l o r d i r t and

should have a highly polished appearance. Clean a d ~ r t yo r blackened commutator
by pressing a clean d r y cloth against it whilst the engine i s slowly turned over by
means of the kickstarter crank. (It is an advantage t o remove the sparking plugs
before doing this). If the commutator is very dirty, moisten the cloth w i t h petrol.

MAGNETO
The magneto i s of rotating armature pattern, having its m a g n i t cast i n t o the body.
so eliminating joints and improving the weatherproof properties o f the magneto.
The ignition timing is controlled by a manual lever situated o n t h e handlebar.
, ... I.. .
L u b r i c a t i o n - E v e r y 3,000 m i l e s (5,000 kms.). The cam i s supplied w i t h lubricant
from a felt pad contained i n a pocket i n the contact breaker housing. A small hole
i n the cam fitted w i t h a wick, enables the o i l t o find i t s way t o the surface o f t h e cam.
Remove the contact breaker cover, t u r n the engine over until the hole i n t h e cam
can be clearly seen and then carefully add a few drops of thin machine oil. D o n o t
allow any o i l t o get on o r near the contacts. If the cam ring i s removed, the wick
should be taken out and soaked in thin machine oil. W i p e the 'wick t o ' remove
surplus oil, b e f o r e replacing.
. .

The contact breaker.rocker arm pivot also requires lubrication and the complete
contact breaker must be removed for this purpose. Take out the hexagon-headed
screw f r o m the centr.e o f the contact breaker and carefully lever the contact breaker
off the tapered shaft o n which it fits. Push aside the rocker arm retaining spring,
t t h e rocker arm and lightly smear the pivot w i t h Mobilgrease No. 2 o r an
I ~ f off
equivalent grease.

Remove t h e cam ring, which i s a sliding fit i n i t s housing, and lightly smear inside and
outside surfaces w i t h Mobilgrease No. 2. Removal and re-fitting of the cam can be
made easier i f the handlebar control lever is half retarded, thus taking the cam away
f r o m i t s stop pin. A l l o w one o r t w o drops of thin machine o i l t o t h e felt cam
lubricator i n the housing. Re-fit the cam, taking care that the stop peg i n t h e
housing and the timing control plunger engage w i t h their respective slots.
. .

If an earthing brush is fitted at the back of the contact breaker base, see that it i s
clean.and can move freely i n i t s holder, before re-fitting t o t h e contact breaker.
W h e n replacing the contact breaker, take cqre t o ensure thdt the projecting key o n
the tapered portion of the contact breaker base engages w i t h the keyway cut i n the
1 magneto spindle, otherwise the timing o f the magneto w i l l be affected. Replace t h e
contact breaker securing screw and tighten with'care.
;:
1; ..
The armature bearings are packed w i t h grease during assembly and will [lot need
i: attention until the motorcycle is dismantled for general overhaul, when it is advisable
!I t o have t h e magneto inspected by a Lucas Service Depot.or Agent.
i

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Magneto Maintenance

A d j u s t m e n t of C o n t a c t B r e a k e r Setting. The setting o f t h e contact breaker

must be checked every 3,000 miles (5,000 kms.). T o d o this, remove the contact
breaker cover and t u r n the engine until the contacts are seen t o be fully open.
Check t h e gap w i t h afeeler gauge having a thickness of 0.012"-0.015" (0.30 t o 0.40 rnm.).
a gauge f o r this purpose is provided o n t h e spanner usually supplied w i t h each
magneto. I f the setting is correct, the gauge should be a sliding fit, b u t i f the gap
w i d t h varies appreciably from the gauge thickness it must be adjusted. Keep t h e
engine i n the position giving maximum separation of the contacts,~lackent h e locknut
and t u r n t h e contact screw by its hexagon head until the gap is set t o t h e gauge.
Tighten t h e locknut and re-check t h e setting.

C l e a n i n g Contacts. .Every 6,000 miles (10,030 kms.), take off the contact breaker
cover and examine the contact breaker. D i r t y o r pitted contacts can ,be cleaned
w i t h a tine carborundum stone, or, if this is not available, very fine emery sloth can
be used.
W i p e away any d i r t o r metal dust w i t h a cloth moistened w i t h petrol. Contact
breaker springs should be examined and any rust removed. To render the contacts
accessible f o r cleaning, proceed as outlined below.
After cleaning, check the contact breaker setting.

R e m o v a l o f C o n t a c t s f o r Cleaning. Unscrew the contact breaker securing screw.

Carefully lever t h e contact breaker off the tapered shaft on which it fits. Push
aside the locating spring and l i f t the rocker arm OH i t s pivot, when it w i l l be possible
t o clean the contacts. When replacing the contact breaker, check that t h e pro-
jecting key, o n the tapered portion of the contact breaker base, engages w i t h t h e
keyway cut i n the armature spindle, otherwise the timing of the magneto w i l l b e
affected. Replace the contact breaker securing screw and tighten w i t h care.

H i g h T e n s i o n Pick-up. About every 6,000 miles (10,000 kms.), remove t h e high

tension pick-up. W i p e the moulding w i t h a clean d r y cloth. Check that t h e
carbon brush moves freely i n i t s holder. b u t take care n o t t o stretch t h e brush spring
unduly. If the brush is dirty, clean it w i t h a cloth moistened w i t h petrol. If t h e
brush i s w o r n t o within+" (3.0 mm.) of the shoulder it must be renewed.
Before re-fitting the high tension pick-up, clean t h e slip ring track and'flanges b y
pressing a soft d r y cloth on the ring w i t h a suitably shaped piece of wood, while t h e
engine i s slowly turned.

R e n e w i n g H i g h T e n s i o n Cables. When high tension cables show signs of-cracking

o r perishing, they must be replaced, using 7 mm. rubber covered ignition cable.

T o replace a high tension cable proceed as follows:-

Remove the metal washer and moulded terminal from t h e defective cable. Thread
the new cable through the moulded terminal and cut back t h e insulation for about
F (6.0 mm.). Pass the exposed strands through the metal washer and bend t h e m
back radially. Screw the terminal i n t o t h e pick-up moulding.

ClassicBike.biz
 LUCAS RM 14 A.C.

LIGHTING A N D I G N I T I O N

GENERAL DESCRIPTION

Under N O R M A L running conditions, electrical energy i n the form of rectified A.C.

passes through the battery from t h e alternator-the rate of charge depending o n
the position o f the lighting switch. W h e n no lights are i n use, the alternator o u t p u t
i s sufficient only t o supply the i g n i t ~ o ncoil and t o trickle-charge the battery. W h e n
t h e lighting switch is turned t o the "PILOT" o r "HEAD" positions, t h e o u t p u t
increases proportionately.

Under EMERGENCY starting conditions, trickle-charging continues whilst ap

ignition performance similar t o that from a magneto i s obtained. AFTER T H E
ENGINE HAS' BEEN STARTED,NORMAL RUNNING IS .RESUMED BY TURNING
THE IGNITI0.N KEY FROM "EMG" t o "IGN". IF THE BATTERY MUST BE
REMOZED. THE ENGINE C A N BE R U N W I T H THE I G N I T I O N S W I T C H IN T H E
"EMG" POSITION PROVIDING T H A T THE BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE ( B R O W N )
IS EARTHED T O THE FRAME. UNDER THESE CONDITIONS N O LIGHTS ARE
AVAILABLE.

CIRCUIT DETAILS

The alternator stator carries three pairs of series-connected coils, one pair being
permanently connected across the rectifier bridge network. The purpose o f this
latter pair is t o provide some degree of charging current for the battery whenever
the engine i s running.

.Connections t o the remaining coils vary according t o the positions of t h e lighting

and ignition switch controls. W h e n no lights are i n use, the alternator o u t p u t
from the battery charging coils is regulated t o a minimum by interaction of t h e r o t o r
flux set up by current flowing i n the short circuited toils.

In the "PILOT" positions these latter coils are disconnected and the regulating fluxes
are consequently reduced. The alternator o u t p u t therefore increases and com-
pensates for the additional parking light load. In the "HEAD" position, the alternator
output i s further increased by the connection of all three pairs of coils i n parallel.

EMERGENCY STARTING ( I G N I T I O N SWITCH A T EMG.)

W i t h this circuit the contact breaker i s arranged t o open when the alternating
current i n the windings reaches a maximum. The ignition coil primary winding
and the contact breaker are connected i n series. W h e n the contacts separate H.T.
current i s induced in the coil secondary windings, thus producing a spark at the plug.

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A.r Generator

Fig. 67. P R I M A R Y C H A I N C A S E C O V E R R E M O V E D T O S H O W R O T O R
A N D STATOR

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 D/pGRWS SHOW/NG 5 w l r c ~
PO51 TIONS LOOX/fl6 aY
TOP OF SWITCH

Fig. 68. W I R I N G DIAGRAM (5T & 6T)

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 , ~ .. . . . . . _ __ .. -.r

A.C. Generator

Since, with the ignition switch at " E M G and the engine running, the battery receives
a charginglcurrent, the battery voltage soon begins t o rise. The rising voltage
opposes the alternator voltage, gradually effecting a reduction i n the energy available
for transfer t o the coil. I n the event of a rider omitting t o return the ignition key
from position "EMG" t o position "IGN" this reduction in spark energy will cause
misfiring t o occur and will remind the rider t o switch over t o normal running.

As previously mentioned, continuous running without a battery is readily arranged

by earthing the cable normaliy connected t o the battery negative terminal.

CONSTRUCTION
The alternator consists essentially of a spigot-mounted and bolted 6-coil laminated
stator with the centre-bored r o t o r carried on; and driven by, an extension t o the
crankshaft. The rotor has an hexagonal steel core, each face of which carries a high
energy permanent magnet keyed t o a laminated pole tip. The pole tips'are riveted
circumferentially t o brass side plates, the assembly being cast in aluminium and
machined t o give a smooth external finish. The stator and rotor can be separated
without any need t o fit magnet keepen t o the rotor poles.

RATING G
fi
,ti.
The alternator is designed for use with headlamp bulbs not exceeding 30-watts rating .,r.r.<
(or equivalent Continental touring bulbs which, although of higher wattage rating. $
$
!:

are yet suitable due t o the generally higher average road speeds encountered abroad).
,"
/_*
ib
.i
@
T H E ALTERNATOR $
Except for an occasional inspection of the snap-connectors i n the three green output
cables-these connectors must be clean and tight-the alternator requires no
4 r,
i
;
maintenance. :?
:I
HOLES FOR F I X I N G BOLTS EXTERNAL SPIGOT
LOCATIONS

POLE CORES

COILS

STATOR

Fig. 69. A L T E R N A T O R (Model RM14)

ClassicBike.biz
 I
I

iI
IGNITION COIL
1 The ignition coil should be kept clean, particularly between the terminals, and t h e
: terminal connections kept tight.
I
C O N T A C T B R E A K E R UNIT-
L u b r i c a t i o n e v e r y 3,000 m i l e s (5,WO krns.)

(i) Remove t h e metal cover and lightly smear t h e face o f the cam w i t h one of
the greases recommended for t h e grease gun use i n the "Recommended
Lubricants" chart i n the Instruction Book. If this i s not available, clean
C
engine o i l may be used.
1
I
WARNING
I W h e n carrying o u t the above lubrication, n o o i l o r grease must be allowed t o get
i
I o n t o o r near the contacts.

(ii) Lubricate the automatic timing control mechanism, using thin machine oil.

Fig. 70. D I S T R I B U T O R M O D E L D K X 2 A WITH C O V E R HEMOVED

I
i
171

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 .. ~ .~ . . - . ~ ~ - . .. ~ ~.. . - . ~ ~ ~~

Distributor

..
C l e a n i n g : E v e r y 6,000 m i l e s (10,000 krns.)
' :. . . ,. .
Remove t h e distributor cover and wipe it inside and outside w i t h a clean dry fluffless
cloth.

Examine t h e contact breaker. The contacts u s be free from r e o r oil. If

they are burned o r blackened, clean w i t h fine carborundum stone o r very fine fi
,$
emery cloth, afterwards wiping away any d i r t o r metal dust w i t h a clean petrol
moistened cloth. 1r

., -
The contact breaker setting should be checked after the f i r s t 500 miles (803 kms.) I,;
,&;
,..
running and subsequently every 6.000 miles (10,000 kms.). T o check the gap. t u r n I::
i5 '>,
t h e engine over slowly u n t i l the contacts are seen t o be fully open and insert a .
;
i:

0.014"-0.016" (0.36 t o 0.4 rnm.) feeler gauge between t h e contacts.

.>.,:
.
:.~
.,::.:i
,.
, .~
r
If the gap w i d t h i s correct, the gauge w i l l be a sliding fir. I f the gap width varies .....
appreciably from the gauge thickness, the setting must be adjusted. T o do this.
::
..,
..
.
keep the engine i n the position giving the maximum contact opening and slacken ..
t h e screw at t h e side of t h e u n i t b3dy. Slide th,e fixed contact carrier i n t o i t s slotted
hole until the correct gap i s obtained. Re-tighten the screw. .t
,;. i ?.
i.l

If t h e high tension cables show signs of perishing o r cracking, they should be replaced 8

using a 7 mm. 'rubber covered ignition cable. T o d o this, remove the metal washer ,
.
and moulded n u t from the defective cable. Thread the new cable through the
1
moulded n u t and bare the conductor for about a! inch (6 rnm.). Pass t h e exposed ... ..
strands through the metal washer and bend back t h e strands radially. Re-fit the \
!
moulded n u t i n t o the H.T. terminal. O n the m2dels ST & bT t h e H.T. cable for the ..
coil t o distributor should also be treated i n a similar manner. ...

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 i
BEFORE SEARCHING FOR AN I G N I T I O N FAULT, A L W A Y S CHECK OVER A L L
I
I
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS: C L E A N AND TIGHTEN IF NECESSARY. i
I
i
1 E N G I N E WILL NOT S T A R T . NO S P A R K AT P L U G S .

N o t e . T o check, remove t h e plugs and place them o n t h e cylinder head after

i re-fitting t h e connector. T u r n t h e ignition switch t o "IGN" (clockwise) and kick
over t h e engine. The plugs should fire w i t h a blue spark. If there is n o spark,
t u r n switch t o "EMG" (anti-clockwise) and test again.

P l u g Oily, F o u l e d o r Faulty. Clean thoroughly, preferably i n a plug cleaning

machine, re-set t h e points gap t o 0.020" (0.50 mm.) and re-fit. Replace w i t h correct
grade plug i f faulty.

Distributor, C o i l o r Condenser Faulty

D i s t r i b u t o r . See that t h e cover is properly fitted and the clips secure. Check
the gap o f t h e contact breaker points and clean and adjust i f necessary (see page 172).

C o i l . First clean the coil, particularly between the cable connections. T o check
the l o w tension circuit, connect a volt meter between the coil terminal marked
I
O;
"SW" and earth. If there is n o reading w i t h the ignition switched o n there is a
fault i n t h e switch o r the lead t o the coil. Nexc connect the volt meter between
the coil terminal marked "C.B." and earth. N o reading here w i t h the ignition
I switched o n indicates a fault in the coil primary winding. If these tests show that the
l o w tension primary circuit i s in order, remove the coil H.T. lead from the distributor
cover. Remove the cover and rotate the engine until the contact points are closed.
j Switch o n t h e ignition and hold the end of the coil H.T. lead about+" (6 mm.) from the
cylinder block. Flick the contact points open w i t h the finger and a spark should
pass t o t h e cylinder block. N o spark indicates a fault in the coil H.T. winding. Any
fault i n a coil can only be corrected by fitting a new unit.
i
Condenser. T o test the condenser, switch on the ignition and connect a volt
meter across the open contacts. If there i s no reading, remove the condenser and
re-test. If a reading on the meter i s then obtained, the condenser i s faulty and
should be changed.

E N G I N E WlLL N O T S T A R T WITH S W I T C H O N " I G N " B U T STARTS

1
1 ON "EMG".

Battery discharged due t o short circuit, poor condition due t o age o r damage, pro-
longed use f o r parking o r low rate of charge from alternator. Have battery charged
from external source and equipment checked by an authorised Lucas Agent, o r
Triumph Dealer as soon as possible.

ClassicBike.biz
E N G I N E R U N S WITH S W I T C H O N "!GS" EL!T NOT O N "EEC".
Examine leads and connections from ignition switch t o coil, and from coil t o distri-
butor. Check distributor contacts and ignition timing (See pages 70 and 172). If
the machine w i l l n o t r u n i n "EMG" switch position, have the equipment checked
by an authorised Lucas Agent o r Triumph Dealer.

R O U G H R U N N I N G A N D M I S F I R I N G WlTH S W I T C H A T "IGN".
Check earth connection f o r battery and rectifier and wiring of switch and rectifier.

LAMPS
H E A D L A M P S F I T T E D TO M A C H I N E S I N T E N D E D F O R T H E H O M E
M A R K E T AND F O R E X P O R T , E X C L U D I N G E U R O P E
These lamps have a double filament pre-focus 6 volt 30124 w a t t Lucas No. 312 bulb.

H E A D L A M P S F I T T E D TO M A C H l N E S I N T E N D E D F O R E X P O R T TO
EUROPE
These lamps have a double filament pre-focus 6 volt 35/35 w a t t Lucas No. 403 bulb.

H E A D L A M P S F I T T E D T O M A C H I N E S I N T E N D E D F O R E X P O R T TO
FRANCE O N L Y
These lamps have a double filament pre-focus 6 volt 36/36 w a t t bulb (yellow) w i t h a
three point connection t o the lamp.
Basically the above lamps are identical, the difference occurring only w i t h the method
of attachment of the bulb i n the French type headlamp and i n the power of the bulbs.

H E A D L A M P S F I T T E D T O T H E TR5 M O D E L S
These lamps are fitted w i t h a double filament 6 volt 30130 w a t t Lucas bulb ( N o t
Pre-focused) and a pilot bulb 6 volt 3 watt.

REPLACING T H E HEADLAMP B U L B
N a c e l l e T y p e . T o gain access t o the t,eadiamp bulb, slacken the front r i m re-
tzining screw situated 2 t the top of the lamp f i x ~ n gring. Disengage and withdraw
the f r o n t r i m and light unit assembly, remavin2 the upper edge first. W i t h the
exception of the French headiarnp, press the moulded adaptor inwards and t u r n i t
t o the left. Lift off the adaptor and withdraw the defective bulb. W h e n inserting
a replacement bulb, locate the slot in the bulb flange w i t h the projection i n the bulb
holder. Re-fit the adaptor, engaging i t s moulded recesses w i t h ccrresponding
projections o n the bulb holder. Press inwards and secure by turning the adaptor
t o t h e right.

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 Lamps

O n t h e French headlamp, release t h e t w o clips securing t h e adaptor and remove

t h e adaptor. Take o u t the defective bulb by pressing it i n and turning t o t h e left.
W h e n replacing t h e bulb, engage t h e three points o n t h e bulb i n the slots o f the
adaptor, press i n and t u r n t o t h e r i g h t t o secure. Replace t h e adaptor w i t h the
projection o n the adaptor engaging i n t h e slot o n t h e headlamp and secure by re-
fastening t h e clips. Re-fit t h e r i m t o t h e nacelle, locating t h e b o t t o m o f t h e r i m
first. Tlghten t h e securlng screw and check t h e beam setting.

TR5. T o gain access t o the bulbs, release the fastener catch at the base o f t h e lamp
when the r i m and reflector assembly can be removed f r o m the shell. The focusing
of the main bulb is made by slackening t h e holder clip screw and moving t h e bulb
holder i n o r o u t as desired. W h e n replacing t h e reflector r i m assembly, firit fit the
reflector t o the shell and locate w i t h t h e rubber head; assemble the r i m and glass,
engaging t h e tongue i n t o the t o p o f the shell and t h e fastener catch i n t o the rim.

SETTING T H E HEADLAMP BEAM

T o check the headlamp beam setting, place the motorcycle i n front of a light coloured
wall a t a distance o f about 25 feet (8 metres). The machine should be carrying its
normal load during this check, since the weight o f the rider (and pillion passenger)
may affect t h e setting. Switch o n t h e main beam. This should be directed straigttt
ahead and parallel w i t h the ground. If it i s not, loosen the t w o small screws on
either side of the lamp fixing ring, and raise o r lower the beam by pulling ~ u o rt
pressing in, the bortom of the ring. W h e n the required adjustment has been
obtained, re-tighten the t w o screws.
W i t h the Lucas pre-focus type bulb fitted i n these lamps, the filament i s correctly
positioned during manufacture i n relation t o t h e focal point of the reflector. N o
further focusing is necessary.

Fig. 71. M O D E L 525 S T O P - T A I L L A M P

175

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 I
i
Remavine HeadlomD and Nacelle

PARKING L A M P
These lights are fitted w i t h a 6 volt 3 w a t t Lucas No. 988 bulb, f o r all markets. T o
replace t h e bulb, unscrew the t w o screws on either side of the r i m and remove t h e
r i m and glass. The bulb can the11 be detached by pressing it i n and turning t o t h e
left. Replace t h e bulb and the r i m and glass i n the reverse o r d e r t o the removal.

REAR L A M P
Access t o r e a r light bulbs i s gained by removing the t w o moulded cover retaining
screws. T h e correct replacemerit for the stop tail lamp i s Lucas No. 384 6 volt 6/18
w a t t bulb. This bulb has offset securing pins t o prevent incorrect insertion i n t o
t h e bulb holder and t o ensure that the higher wattage filament is illuminated when
the brake pedal i s depressed. In the event of failure of the 6 watt filament do n o t
change t h e cables over t o obtain rear lighting from the 18 watt filament as the heat
generated w i l l probably burn the plastic lens.

H E A D L A M P A N D T O P N A C E L L E UNIT

R E M O V A L ( D y n a m o Equipped Models)

Battery. Disconnect the battery positive lead.

Steering Damper. Unscrew and remove.

H e a d l a m p . Unscrew the retaining screw at the top of the headlamp retaining

ring and ease the headlamp away from the ring, pulling from the top. Disconnect
the earth w i r e (black) from the bulb holder frame, and the t w o headlight leads (black)
at the snap connectors.

R e t a i n i n g Ring. Remove by unscrewing the t w o small screws at the sides of the

ring.

Motifs. Unscrew the four screws and t w o nuts securing the motifs and remove.

R e a r N a c e l l e R e t a i n i n g Screws. Remove the t w o small screws and nuts holding

the rear of t h e t o p unit t o the fork covers, being careful not t o lose the nuts.

F i v e P o i n t C o n n e c t o r . Disconnect all leads at the connector. If the t o p unit

only i s being removed, leave the connector i n position on the stanchion. If however.
it i s intended t o remove the fork assembly, remove the connector from the stanchion
and disconnect the leads so that the connector remains w i t h the t o p unit.

Speedometer. Unscrew the speedometer drive cable at the head.

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 I
1
I
i
I Removing Headlamp and Nacelle

Horn. Disconnect both leads.

D i p s w i t c h L e a d t o L i g h t Switch. Disconnect at the light switch (No. 2 position).

i
I Assembly. Re-assemble in t h e reverse manner.
I

! R E M O V A L (A.C. E q u i p p e d M o d e l s )
i
Dismantle as f o r TlOO & TllO t o "Rear Nacelle Retaining Screws" and proceed as
follows:

L i g h t i n g a n d I g n i t i o n Switch. Unscrew the small grub screw at the side o f the

plastic switch lever and pull the lever away f r o m the switch. Unscrew t h e brass nut
around the switch body and remove the name disc. Unscrew the t w o switch t o
nacelle retaining screws and push the switch through into. the nacelle.

Horn. Disconnect the black lead f r o m t h e h o r n terminal.

S p e e d o m e t e r . Unscrew the speedometer drive cable at the head and detach

the speedometer light.

A m m e t e r . Disconnect the b r o w n leads at the ammeter; one from the L.H

terminal and t w o from the R.H. terminal.

NOTE
If it is intended t o remove the t o p u n i t only, it is unnecessary t o proceed any further.
If the forks are t o be removed however, it w i l l be necessary t o disconnect the blue
lead from the dipper switch t o switch position number 3 and also the red and black
pilot light lead. Both these leads are fitted w i t h snap connectors.

Assembly. Re-assemble i n the reverse manner.

I BATTERY
I

During charging, water i s lost by gzssing and evaporation and this must be replaced
to maintain the battery i n a healthy condition. Once a month o r more often in
Warm climates, the level of the electrolyte i n the cells of the battery must be
examined; if necessary, distilled water must be added t o b i i n g the e~?ctrolytejust
level w i t h the top of the separators.
Never use a naked light when examining the condition o f the cells, as there is a
danger o f igniting the gas coming from the active materials.
The correct acid level device consists of a central tube w i t h a perforated flange
which rests o n a ledge in the filling orifice. W h e n topping-up a battery fitted w i t h
these devices, pour distilled water around the flange (not down the tube) until no

ClassicBike.biz
Battery Maintenance i

m o r e drains through into the cell:. T h i i w i l l happen when the efectrolyte level
reaches the b o t t o m o f the central tube and prevents further escape of air displaced
b y t h e topping up water. By lifting t h e tube slightly, the small amount of water i n
t h e flange w i l l drain i n t o t h e cell and t h e electrolyte level w i l l then be correct.

Checking t h e Condition o f the Battery

Occasionally check the condition o f the battery by taking measurements of the
specific gravity of the electrolyre i n each of the cells. A small volume hydrometer
i s required f o r this purpose-this instrument resembles a syringe containing a
graduated float which ind~catesthe specific gravity of the acid i n t h e cell from which
t h e sample has been taken.

DO NOT M U W
IN XX) MKH
ELECTROLYTE

--

Fig. 72. T A K I N G HYDROMETER READINGS

Measurements should not be taken immediately after the cells have been "topped-up"
as t h e electrolyte w i l l n o t be thoroughly mixed.

The space between each separator is n o t wide enough t o permit the nozzle of a
hydrometer t o be inserted. Before taking a sample, tilt the battery t o bring sufficient
electrolyte above the separators.

Specific gravity readings and their indications are as follows:-

1.280-1.300 ... .,. ... ... ... Cell fully charged.
A b o u t 1.210 . . . . . . ... ... ... Celi about half discharged.
Below 1.1 50 . . . . . . ... ... ... Cell fully discharged.
The reading for each of the cells should be approximately the same.

I f one cell gives a value very different f r o m the rest, it may be that acid has spilled
or has leaked from that particular cell, o r there may be a short circuit between the
plater. I n this case t h e battery should be examined by a Lucas Service Depot o r
Agent.
178

ClassicBike.biz
 Never leave t h e battery i n a discharged condition. I f t h e motorcycle is t o be o u t
l
I
of use f o r any length of t i m e have t h e battery fully charged and every fortnight, give
it a short refreshing charge t o prevent any tendency f o r t h e plates t o become
permanently sulphated.
I
1
1 ~ e t a c h a b l eC a b l e C o n n e c t o r s
When connecting t h e battery, unscrew t h e knurled n u t and w i t h d r a w t h e collet o r
cone shaped insert, noting that it i s n o t interchangeable w i t h t h e collet i n t h e other
terminal. Bare t h e end o f t h e cable f o r about one inch and thread one bared end
through t h e knurled n u t and coilet. Bend back t h e cable strands over t h e n a r r o w
end of t h e collet and insert t h e coliet and cable i n t o t h e terminal block. ;Secure the
connection by tightening t h e knurled nut.

Battery E a r t h
The A.C. Lighting-ignition U n i t and dynamo u n i t have been designed f o r positive
v(;e) earth systems. If t h e battery connections are reversed t h e equipment w i l i
be damaged.

a CORRECT-ACIDLEVEL

Fig. 73. B A T T E R Y M O D E L PU7E/9

S h o w i n g c o r r e c t - a c i d - l e v e l d e v i c e a n d d e t a c h a b l e c a b l e connectors.

ELECTRIC H O R N S

These horns, before being pasted out of t h e Works, are adjusted t o give t h e l r best
Performance, and w i l i give a long period of service w i t h o u t any attention.

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Electric Horn .-
i
If t h e h o r n become: unccrtxin i n i t s zction, giving only a choking sound, o r does no:
vibrate, it does n o t follow that the h o r n has broken down. First ascertain that the
t r o u b l e i s n o t due to some outside source, e.g. a discharged battery, a loose con-
nection, o r s h o r t circuit i n t h e wiring of t h e horn. In part~cular,ascertain that the
h o r n push bracket is i n good electrical contact w i t h the handlebars.
It is also possible t h a t t h e performance of a h o r n may be upset by i t s mounting
becoming loose.

Adjustment
T h e following adjustment w i l l not alter the tone of the horn. It w i l l take up any wear
o f t h e moving parts which, i f n o t corrected, may result i n loss of power and roughness
of note.
Accurate adjuscmenc requires the use of a 0-10 amp. D.C.ammeter-the maximum
permissible c u r r e n t consumption being 6 amperes at 6 volts-but t h e owner rider,
w h o may n o t possess one of these instruments can carry out the following procedure
i f t h e h o r n note i s considered t o have deteriorated:-

Operate t h e h o r n push and t u r n the adjustment screw anti-clockwise until the

h o r n just fails to sound. Release the h o r n push and t u r n the adjustment screw
clockwise f o r six notches, i.e. a quarter o f a turn, when the original performance
should be restored. If further adjustment i s necessary, t u r n the screw one
notch a t a time.
If the original performance cannot be restored by adjustment do not attempt
t o dismantle t h e horn; b u t return it t o a Lucas Service Depot f o r examination.

SPARKING PLUGS
The sparking plug i s of great importance i n satisfactory engine performance and every
care should be taken ro tic the correct type when replacements are necessary.
There i s l i t t l e t o be gained by experimenting w i t h different types of plugs as the type
fitted to standard equipment, are best suited t o your particular engine. !See
Technical Data f o r y o u r Machine). Sparking plugs required for racing purposes are
much "harder" and advice on such matters should be obtained from the manufacturers.
The correcr gap setting of the sparking plug i s .018" (0.45 mm.) (Magneto Ignition)
and 0.020" (0.50 mm.) (Coil ignition). D o n o t guess this distance b u t use a feeler
gauge which can be supplied by the plug manufacturer a t a very reasonable cost.
W h e n re-setting, bend the side electrode only. Never bend the centre electrode
as this may split t h e insulator tip.
The TR5 and T I 0 0 are fitted w i t h long reach plugs which are screwed directly i n t o
t h e alloy cylinder head. If either plug indicates tightness when removing, pour a
l i t t l e penetrating o i l around the base of the plug and allow it t o seep around the
threads. By doing this the plug w i l l be more easily removed and the cylinder head
plug threads w i l l n o t be damaged. Smear the threads w i t h graphite grease before
replaclng.

ClassicBike.biz
 following conditions:

ASHWHITE. This i s a sign that t h e plug is over-heating. Usual cause is the m i x t u r e

strength t o o weak (a common cause being a faulty carburetter t o cylinder head joint
o r t h e ignition t o o far retarded.

DULL BLACK. This indicates that t h e plug is running t o o cold or, i n other words
the insulator i s insufficiently h o t t o burn off the carbon. This i s caused by t o o rich
a mixture o r the engine left r ~ n n i n gw i t h a generous slow running setting (quality

LIGHT B R O W N . This shows that the m i x t u r e strength is correct and the engine
is running at the right temperature.

Before re-fitting the plugs, make sure that the copper washers i r e n o t defective i n
any way. I f they have become w o r n and flattened, fit new ones t o ensure that a
gastight joint is obtained.
&!
1 When installing plugs, f i r s t screw the plugs down by hand as far as possible, then use
i

i
k'$
$
spanner f o r tightening only. Always use a tubular box spanner t o avoid possib!e
fracture t o the insulator, b u t do n o t under any circumstances use a movable wrench.
Paint splashes, accumulation of grime and dust etc.. on the top halfof the insulator are
1 $gj
;
often responsible for poor plug performance. Plugs should be wiped frequently
,g.' with a clean rag.
i

1 To save p e t r o l and prevent difficult starring, plugs should be cleaned and tested at
regulai intervals, and it i s suggested that this service be performed at your garage o n
a special " A i r Blast" service unit. Plugs which are allowed t o remain oily and d i r t y
I
1 w i t h corroded electrodes w i l l seriously impair the efficient running of the m o t o r
1
and waste precious petrol.

To obtain maximum efficiency from the engine and also t o maintain good petrol
consumption which the motorcycle has when new, plugs should be changed at , !
regular intervals as old plugs are wasteful and cauze poor and sluggish running. W e
recommend inspection, cleaning and testing every 3,000 miles (5,000 kmr.), and it
W i l l be found economical td replace w i t h new ones annually.

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 ... .
. ~ ~.. . ~~ -~~ . . ~
- ~~

Toolkit

ft
-

" ,*
5[!
Fig. 74. TOOLKIT La
r?

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I
I

I Toolkit

I
I
TOOLKIT
i
I Description. Purpose.

Ii PA.57 Spanner closed x +"Whit. Wheel nuts

I
DA.311 Spanner closed x %Whit.

,I ,l II r.
I
4
1 NA.66 Spanner closed -&." x &"Whit. General

Spanner closed 0.218" x &"Whit. Adjusting tappets

I NA.65
I DA.5 Spanner closed 0.218" x 0.33Vsq.
Jr- 3, -9

I i; PA.60 Spanner, box $" x .&",Whit. Cyl. head bolts

1 6:
t:
!.; 415116 Spanner Magneto points
P..
I .:!
I
i
i
,,. DA.72 Spanner open +" x +"Whit. Wheel bearing nuts
.!Ir .
ii PA.56 Spanner combination
i General
! 1:
:?:
t!
NA.55 Spanner open -1'' x -,vWhit.
i i;: DA:16 . Spahner open +" X &"Whir.
j 1;
?;
,,

, . 3 KA.50 Spanner open 0.375" x Whir.

I fl
I I:
:*: DA.313 Spanner open "C"
Adjusting Girling units
I_:
/i!
;.,.
j % ~ ,

1;i:
PA.55 Screwdriver General

j:~ DA.87 Spanner, box

j ii Sparking plug
tt
I D.258 Tyre lever-cum-tommy bar -
i
i: NA.14 Tyre lever-double ended -
i
i
NA.12 Grease gun -
I i
!
i
WA.58 Tool bag -
f DA.70 Key Clutch adjustment
I:
I 1.
1 DA.50/1 Extractor Clutch centre

1I D.49 Tyre inflator -

i

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 SUPPLEMENTARY INSTRUCTIONS

W i t h t h e exception o f the 3T engine, which w i l l be referred t o separately, t h e

instructions i n the main body of the Instruction Manual may be applied t o a l l machines
from 1945 to the present day. With t h e aid o f this supplement and t h e accompanying
data sheet, n o difficulty w i l l be found i n selecting the instructions for any individual
machine.

Some of the more important changes during this t i m e are as follows: The Mk. 1
spring wheel was introduced i n 1948 and together w i t h the Mk. 2 wheel, which
was introduced i n 1951. may b e fitted to any o f t h e rigid frame machines. A modified
gearbox was introduced i n 1950, w i t h the speedometer drive taken f r o m t h e timing
side end of the layshaft, and although similar i n construction the parts of the gearbox
are n o t interchangeable w i t h t h e previous model. W h e r e earlier models are fitted
w i t h a spring hub t h e speedometer drive i s taken from a pinion behind t h e final
drive sprocket.

Models previous t o 1949 have the orthodox telescopic fork, f o r which t h e servicing
instructions are the same as the Trophy fork i n the accompanying Instruction Manual,
b u t i n 1949 t h e nacelle was introduced containing a 6" diameter headlamp. Also
i n 1949 t h e o i l pressure gauge was dispensed with, as the instrument panel i n t h e
fuel tank was n o longer fitted, and an oil pressure indicator button on the timing
cover substituted. The r e t u r n o f t h e oil from t h e overhead rocker gear o n the
e l r l i e r models i s by internal o i l ways i n the cylinder head and block, b u t i n 1949
external oil drain pipes were fitted from the cylinder head t o the push r o d cover
tubes.

A n S.U. Carburetter was fitted t o t h e Thunderbird f o r 1952, and this necessitated

an eye i n t h e saddle tube for t h e air filter connection, this frame being used o n all
models up t o the introduction o f t h e swinging arm frame. In 1952 t h e nacelle was
changed t o accommodate a 7" diameter headlamp, incorporating a prefocus light
unit. A t the same time (from engine number 19706 N A ) t h e electrical system was
changed t o POSITIVE EARTH wiring.

Tappet Adjustment. A l l machines w i t h cast i r o n cylinder heads and barrels

previous t o engine number 37560 should be used w i t h a tappet clearance o f ,001"
(see page 37, para. a.), and machines w i t h alloy cylinder heads and barrels previous
to engine number 37560 should be used w i t h a tappet clearance o f ,002" i n l e t and
.004" exhaust.

I n 1953 quietening ramps were added t o the camshafts, and a l l machines from engine
number 37560 w i t h an identification mark o n t h e drive side crankcase n e x t t o the
engine number, must be used w i t h tappet clearance of ,010". Use of a smaller
tappet clearance w i t h these particular camshafts w i l l result in t h e valves being b u r n t
out.

A major change t o o k place i n 1953 when the Speed T w i n was fitted w i t h t h e Lucas
RM.12 AC/DC lighting equipment. Following t h e experience gained w i t h this
generator t h e improved RM.14 type was fitted t o t h e Speed Twifi and also the
Thunderbird f o r t h e 1954 season.

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 -

Fitting o Sidecar

I
A rubber buffer shock absorber i s incorporated in the clutch hub from the engine
number 32303. A l l models previous t o this number have a spring loaded cam type
shock absorber on the engine mainshaft. T o remove the engine sprocket nut
engage top gear and use a well fitting box spanner. The tommy-bar should be
struck several sharp blows w i t h a suitable hammer o r mallet when i t will be found
I t o unscrew quite easily.
4
The order o f assembly i s as follows: Sleeve, engine sprocket, slider, spring, collar
and nut. The nut should be screwed home with the box spanner in the same
manner as when unscrewing, finishing with several sharp hammer blows t o lock the
nut up tight.
I
The frame with swinging arm suspension was f i r s t fitted t o the Tiger models i n 1954,
and extended t o the rest of the range in 1955. In addition t o the other changes
this frame also employs a different method of gearbox mounting, but the actual
shafts and gears are identical. A stronger crankshaft and larger timing side main
bearing were fitted to all models except rhe Speed Twin for 1954 and extended
t o the Speed Twin for 1955. The Amal Monobloc carburetter was introduced
during the 1955 season and is now fitted t o ail models except the Thunderbird.
i
1:
The 1955 ST and 6T swinging arm models d~Herfrom the earlier A.C. equipped
models, i n that the alternator stator i s mounted on the inner half of the chaincase.
i Therefore it is unnecessary t o disconnect the aiternasor lead when removing the
i outer half of the primary chaincase. The 6T i s also fitted with a different distributor
giving a smaller range of movement, and note of this should be taken when timing the
ignition.

C y l i n d e r H e a d Bolts. The cylinder head torque stay bolts are fitted in the front
position on all rigid frame machines and i n the rear position on all swinging arm
frame machines.

FITTING A SIDECAR
S W I N G I N G A R M FRAME MODELS
I The machine should be prepared in the usual manner by fitting stronger f o k springs,
a smaller engine sprocket and stronger springs and hump stops t o the Girling
rear suspension units.
!
it is somewhat difficult t o compress the stronger suspension unit springs, and it is
suggested that if there i s a local Girling agent, he should be entrusted with the job.

For the guidance of those who do not live within easy reach of a Girling agent, the
I
I procedure is as follows: Depress the top dust cover and remove the spring retainers.
The t o p dust cover, main spring and bottom dust cover may now be lifted off.

I1
1
Slide the rubber bump stop down the damper piston rod and fit the halves o f t h e
bump stop w i t h the point of the cone facing upwards, taking care t o tighten the
four Allen screws evenly. Smear the new spring w i t h high melting point grease.
i' fit t o the unit and replace the split spring retainer.
ii

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ClassicBike.biz
I
The Amal Monobloc Carburetter
I
FAULT FINDING A N D MAINTENANCE
Occasionally remove and clean t h e petrol f i l t e r gauze f r o m inside the banjo con-
nection. If flooding occurs check this gauze t o see that it is i n good condition and
then remove t h e float chamber cover, float and float needle. Examine f c r d i r t o r
damage o n the needle and the needle seating. W h e n replacing t h e float see that t h e
n a r r o w hinge leg is uppermost, as this operates t h e needle, and d o not forget t o
replace t h e float spindle bush. Make sure that the cover plate and washer are
clean and i n good condition before re-assembl~ng.

Erratic slow running may be caused by air leaks at the flange and the flange should
be checked w i t h a straight edge, and i f necessary very carefully trued up w i t h a fine
file o r emery cloth used on a flat surface such as plate glass. W h e n refitting t h e
carburetter always use a new p.aper joint washer and then tighten the fixing nuts
evenly.

For more detailed instructions o n tuning see the Amal leafiet number 502.

SPECIAL I N S T R U C T I O N S

T.l10 M O D E L

W h e n using the T.l10 model at speeds below 40 m.p.h, the ignition should be partly
retarded by moving the ignition control lever, on the left handlebar, approximately
115 of i t s travel from the stop. ("Fully Advanced" position).

W h i l s t it i s advisable t o use premium grade fuel i n all Triumph motorcycles, i t s use

i s essential i n t h e T.llO. Premium grade fuel may be unobtainable i n certain t e r r i -
tories overseas and i n such cases l o w e r compression ratio pistons should be fitted.

l i t h e machine i s used exclusively for long, fast runs, i t is advisable t o fit Champion
L.A.ll sparking plugs.

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 350 C.C. TWIN-MODEL 3T DE L U X E

D r y sump lubrication i s used on the 3T model. The oil from the tank i s fed through
a pipe t o t h e pressure side of the o i l pump. From there t h e oil, under pressure,
i s fed t o the t i m i n g side plain bearing, where it is picked u p by t h e crankshaft annular
groove and forced through drilled oilways t o t h e big end assemblies. It then issues
from the big ends i n t h e form of an o i l fog, which lubricates t h e internal parts of he
engine. The pressure is regulated by means of a release valve situated i n the front
offside crankcase. The valve consists o f a piston and spring and, should the o i l
pressure become excessive, the piston i s forced back o n i t s spring, allowing surplus
oil t o pass through t h e uncovered hole i n the release valve body t o the crankcase.
It w i l l be seen that the strength of the o i l pressure release valve spring regulates
the poundage of t h e o i l pressure.
The rocker gear, push rods and tappets, are lubricated by scavenge o i l which, after
k,eing used, returns t o the crankcase by way of the push r o d tubes.

TAPPET A D J U S T M E N T (3T)
Tappet adjustment i s made on the rocker arms after removing the t w o tappet
inspection covers o n the rocker boxes. Method of adjustment i s described i n the
W o r k s h o p Manual.

CLUTCH
The clutch o n the 3T model has three corked and four steel plates. A l l other
details as W o r k s h o p Manual.

T Y RES
Dunlop recommended tyre pressure for the 3T model:
Front 16 lbs. Rear 18 lbs.

3T DE L U X E CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY

The lower haif o f the 3T de Luxe engine i s fundamentally similar t o the larger engine
but differs i n the construction of the crankshaft assembly and has a white metal
timing side main bearing.

When dismantling the 3T crankcase assembly the same procedure should be followed
as for t h e larger machines. The only difference being that the crankshaft timing
pinion has a thread o n i t s end portion and may be removed by the use of the ordinary
cam wheel removal t o o l part number Z.89. Replacing the timing side main bearing
i s a skilled task, and the bearing should refera ably be line reamed o r broached after
fitting i n t h e crankcase. It should be noted that the fit of this bearing controls the
oil pressure at t h e big ends, and if this bearing i s slack the o i l pressure w i l l be low.

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I Crankcase Assembly (3T De Luxe)

U n l ~ k et h e larger models the big ends on the 3T are n o t split and it is necessary t o
dismantle the flywheel assembly t o remove the connecting rods. The lower part
of t h e flywheel should be held i n a vice and the pinch bolts and nuts removed. Place
a soft metal d r i f t through t h e flywheel against the opposite crank and carefully
drive o u t t h e crank by using a hammer on the drift. D r i v e o u t the other crank i n
the same manner. D o n o t lose o r damage the small tube connecting the t w o cranks.
as this maintains the o i l seal a t this point.

If the big ends are w o r n it w i l l be found necessary t o fit reconditioned connecting

rods and have the crank journals reground. If the crank journals have t o be re-
ground it i s necessary t o regrind the parts of t h e crank journal which mate w i t h the
fiywheel and fit a new flywheel w i t h a smaller hole. Three undersizes of rods are
supplied, minus .010", minus .020" and minus ,030". A l l cranks which are returned
t o t h e works for re-grinding of the journals have t h e timins side main bearipg journal
reground at the same time, this bearing also being available in the sa'me three
undersizes.

T o Assemble t h e 3T Crankshaft
Thoroughly wash all parts in petrol o r parahin before commencing t o assemble.
F i t the o i l seal tube t o the drive side crank and lightly oil the bearing portion of the
crank journal. Care should be taken t o allow no oil t o reach the portion which
mates w i t h the flywheel hole. Fit the connecting r o d t o t h e drive side crank w i t h
the marking "Flywheel Side" i n i t s correct position. To align the assembly during
the fitting of the crank a round bar (+"-.003"+.000'7 should be passed through the
datum hole drilled in the lower part of the flywheel and the crank threaded over
this same bar by means o f i t s o w n datum hole. Press the drive side crank into the
flywheel u n t i l t h e connecting r o d i s just free t o move, then repeat the sequence for
the timing side crank. The correct side play for the rods is .015" t o .020", and if the
clearance at one side i s greater than this the offending crank should be pressed i n
until the play is equalised. N o w insert and lightly tighten the pinch bolts. The
final alignment o f the assembly should be carried out by placing a ball race over each
main bearing journal and spinning the assembly i n a jig. The assembly should be
checked for t r u t h at 3 points, the drive side mainshaft, the timing side mainshaft
and the flywheel r i m ; if t h e assembly does not run true it should be taken out of
the jig and t h e offending crank web tapped w i t h a lead o r hide hammer and then
re-checked. The maximum permissible o u t o f t r u t h i s .0005"on the end o f t h e drive
side mainshaft. Finally tighten the pinch bolt and re-check.

N e w crank journal diameter = 1.3730"- 1.3735"

N e w T.S. bearing journal ,, = 1.2485"- 1.2490"
N e w T.S. bearing I.D. -
-- 1.2495"- 1.250W

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Crankcase Assembly (3T De Luxe)
I- a

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39

E N G I N E 3T-CRANKSHAFT, C O N N E C T I N G RODS,
P I S T O N S , T I M I N G GEARS, ETC.

1. T o p piston ring. 21. Disc. breather valve.

2. Scraper ring. 22. N u t , timing pinion.
3. Piston. 23. Dynamo pinion.
4. Gudgeon pin. 24. Timing pinion.
5. Circlip. 25. Screw. dynamo pinion.
6. Connecting rod. 26. Camshaft pinion.
7. L i t t l e end bush. 27. lnterrnediate pinion.
8. D. S. crank. 28. Bush. intermediate pinion.
9. Flywheel. 29. Automatic timing device.
10. T. S. crank. 30. N u t , exhaust camshaft.
11. O i l seal tube. 31. N u t . inlet camshaft.
12. Pinch bolt. 32. D.S. main bearing.
13. N u t , pinch bolt. 33. Distance washer.
14. Key. camshaft. 34. Sleeve. shock absorber.
15. Key. t i m i n g pinion. 35. Engine sprocket.
16. T. S. main bearing.
36: Slider, shock absorber.
17. Camshaft.
18. Taper piston ring. 37. Spring. shoclc absorber.
19. Spring, breather valve. 38. Collar, shock absorber.
20. Valve, crankcase breather. 39. N u t , sleeve.

190

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 The early 3 T models have long studs fitted t o the crankcase, the cylinr'er block and
head being held down by eight bolgs screwing i n t o these studs.

DISMANTLING THE 3T ENGINE

( I Disconnect exhaust pipes, carburetter, engine steady bracket, H.T. cables,
and remove plugs.

(2) Take off t h e rocker gear feed pipe by removing t h e t w o banjo unions at the
rocker spindles.

(3) T o remove the cylinder head, unscrew the eight holding down bolts. Lift
t h e cylinder head vertically and detach the push rods and cover rubes, when
t h e head can be lifted clear o f the cylinder block.

(4) T o remove the valves from the cylinder head, a valve spring compressor
t o o l is required. When the valve springs are i n a compressed state the
valve spring cotters can easily be detached w i t h t h e use of a screwdriver,,
Carefully mark the valve t o aid replacement.

(5) If t h e rocker arms are quite free on their spindles, it is undesirable t o strip
t h e rocker gear. Should it be necessary, t h e spindles can be tapped out
f r o m the threaded end, using a soft tool, and t h e rocker arms extended
from the rocker box.

(6) T o remove the cylinder block o n early models, it is only necessary t o raise
it clear of the crankcase studs. O n later models, first remove the holding
down nuts. Before lifting the cylinder block, care should be taken t o prevent
t h e tappets falling i n t o the crankcase. This can be overcome by placing a
short ?" bolt between the tappet grooves.

(7) Pistons can be taken off by removing t w o circlips and tapping o u t gudgeon
pins clear of the connecting rod w i t h a soft drift. Care must be taken t o
support the opposite side of the piston adequately whilst carrying o u t this
operation. Suitably mark the pistons so that correct re-assembly may be
assured.

I
I ASSEMBLING THE 3T E N G I N E
(1) Replace pistons--ensure correct positioning of circlips and rhe gaps i n the
piston rings are not i n line.

(2) Prepare cylinder block-grease base washer and fit t o block. Fit the four
tappets and secure them against falling i n t o the crankcase. The block rnusr
be installed w i t h the "DS" mark, which w i l l be found o n the base flange, t o
t h e drive side of the engine.

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Decorbonising !

3T ENGINE
..
E x p l o d e d v i e w of t o p p o r t i o n

1. Bolt, cylinder head. Collar, split.

2. Knurled nut. Collar, spring.
3. Cover. inspection. Spring, outer.
4. Washer, inspection cover. Spring, inner.
5. Bolt, cyiinder head. Valve.
6. Head, cylinder. Guide, valve.
7. Stud. inspection cover. Gasket, cylinder head.
8. Washer. fibre. Block, cylinder.
9. Rocker, R.H. Screw, tappet block.
10. Rocker, L.H. Washer, shakeproof.
11. Pin, ball. Block, tappet.
12. Pin. adjusting. Tappet.
13. N u t , lock. Rod, push.
14. Spindle, rocker. Cover, p u s h rod.
15. Washer. Washer, fibre.
16. Washer, plain. Washer, o i l seal.
17. Washer, spring. Bolt, cylinder head.
18. N u t , spindle. N u t , cylinder t o crankcase

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 (3) Fit rubber seal washers t o push r o d tubes. Grease upper push r o d tube
washers, cylinder head gasket and fit t o t h e cylinder head.

(4) Assemble inlet push rods and tubes t o cylinder head. T o aid assembly t h e
lower push rod cover tube cups are marked w i t h a vertical line. This must
be centralized and placed facing t h e magneto and dynamo respectively. F i t
t h e four centre holding down bolts and torque bracket t o cylinder head and
place i n position on the cylinder block.
I
(5) T o fit t h e exhaust push rods, t h e cylinder head should be raised about 1".
This can be done by placing a piece of wood either side between t h e cylinder
head fin and t h e block fin. Position both inlet and exhaust push rods o n
the tappets, remove the wood pieces and gently lower cylinder head t o block.
Inspect the rocker balls f o r correct assembly t o push r o d cups. N o w lightly
tighten the four centre bolts down.

(6) Fit the four remaining bolts and evenly tighten t h e cylinder head down.

(7) Adjust tappets and replace covers.

(8) Refit torque brackets t o frame clip, carburetter, sparking plugs, H.T. cable,
rocker oil feed pipe and exhaust pipes.

I (9) Run engine and carry out statlonary tests. A f t e r stopping re-tighten all
nuts and bolts.

SPRING W H E E L Pik. 1
The following instructions are given for t h e benefit o f dealers o r owners wishing t o
maintain the early type of Spring Wheel. However, should there be a large number
of parts i n need of replacement, we would strongly recommend that t h e wheel is
modified t o Mk. 2 specification. For f u r t h e r details, please contact the Service
Department. Triumph Engineering Co. Ltd., o r the local Triumph Dea:er.

DISMANTLING
(1) Remove spindle t o frame locator. T o remove the dust excluder, withdraw
the distance collars, then centre sleeve, spring and dust plate. T o extract
the dust cover from the hub, gently prise it away. O n early models a rubber
gaiter i s fitted; this can be removed i n exactly the same manner.

(2) Place the wheel spindle i n the vice, having t h e back plafe uppermost and
remove t h e 10 nuts. The back plate can n o w be removed and the shims
carefully eased off the studs.

1 (3) Turn t h e wheel over and unscrew t h e brake anchor plate i n an anti-clockwke
direction. W h e n unscrewing, either remove the brake lever spring o r

I hold t h e lever in such a position as t o prevent the brake shoes binding o n

the b a k e drum.

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Spring Wheel Mk. 1
/
(4) Remove t h e spring box a::ernbly I r o n t h e hub.

(5) T o remove t h e outer race f r o m t h e drive side, a suitable piece of hardwood

should be employed. The race is removed by driving from t h e outside o f
t h e hub.

(6) The offside outer race which is situated i n the back plate should be removed
by a special rool, o r t h e plate heated sufficiently t o allow the race t o drop
out. Great care must be taken i f t h e latter operation is carried out, as
excessive heat w i l l destroy hardening of the race.

LUBRICATION OF PARTS
Liberally smear all working parts w i t h graphite grease before assembly.

ASSEMBLY
(1) Replace the drive side outer race t o t h e hub and ensure that it is fully home.

(2) Fit t h e inner race t o the spring box and grease before assembly. N o t e that
the ball cage assembiy should be fiited w i t h the cage towards the wheel centre.

(3) Insert the spring box i n t o t h e hub.

(4) Assemble t h e race t o the off-side w i t h the balls facing towards the back plate.

(5) ,Fit t h e shims t o the hub and assemble the back plate. Screw up the nuts
securing the back plate and test the rotation of the spring box for freedom
:during the tightening. Failure t o do this after new parts have been fitted
may result i n indentation of t h e outer ball race o r fracture of the hub parts.
Any tightness can be obviated by fitting extra shims, altowing the spring b o x
t o rotate and at the same t i m e allowing no lateral movement.

(6) Place t h e wheel i n the vice or a suitable jig w i t h t h e drive side uppermost
a n d screw o n t h e brake anchor plate. T u r n back the anchor plate after fully
tightening until the wheel turns freely. The brake cam lever bush should
then be lined up w i t h the wheel spindle for assembly purposes.

(7) Fit t h e dust cover and then locate the dust plate, ensuring that the spigot
i s positioned. Place the spring over t h e spindle and assemble centre sleeve.
Fit spindle t o frame locator on the near side and bevel washer t o the off side,
bevel facing inwards. W h e r e the rubber gaiter i s fitted it i s advisable t o
centralise t h e spindle, here a r i g w i l l have t o be made t o overcome the spring
tension.

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 Spring Wheel Mk. 1
-

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ClassicBike.biz
 GEAR R A T I O S

--
Bottom

2
\D
U

R. A r m = Rigid Sw. Arm = Swinging Arm 0 .-= 170 lor 1950 machines
S.W. - Spring Wheel t -
-. 8 with Spring Wheel * -= Up t o Engine No. 37560

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ENGlldE.Bore&Strokemm.

Caph~ityC.C.

Compression Ratio

Power Output at r.p.m.

Tappet Clearance-ins.

Valve Timing in Deg.

IGNITION. Type

Contact Gap-ins.

Timing (fully advanced)

Plug Gap-ins.

CARBU R E T T E R . Type
Main Jet

Needle Jet

Needle-Type

Needle Position

Tlirottle Valve

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GEAR R A T I O S Prc1953
--
To P 5.0 5.0 5.0
- -
3rd 6.0 5.75 5 95
--
2nd 8.65 8.45 8.45
--
Bottom 12.70 12.20 12.20
--
E N G . SPROCKET. Solo 22 22

S~dccar 19 19
CHAIN LENGTH
?rrmary ,+'I x ,305'' 78 78
Rear 3'' x 4'' 93 93
C A P A C I T Y . Petrol. plls. 4 4
011-pints

R. Arm = Rigid Sw. Arm = Swinging Arm = 170 for 1950 machines
S.W. -
- Spring Wheel t - 8 with Spring Wheel -
- U p t o Engine No. 37560

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 Fig. 75. LUBRICATION CHART

No. Part. S.A.E. No. Part. S.A.E.

- -
I Engine Oil Tank 20 or 30 7 Brake Cam Spindle Grease
-
2 Gearbox 50 B Footbrake Pedal Spindle Grease

3 Primary Chaincase 20 9 Exposed Cables 20

--
4 Spring W h e e l Grease 10 Fork (Hydraulic) 20
-
5 Wheel Hubs Grease OIL-CAN LUBRlCATiON
- Ail Brake Rod Joints and
6 Steering Head Grease P~ns 20

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 Lubrication Chart

I Fig. 76. L U B R I C A T I O N CHART

No. Part. S.A.E. Part.

1 Engine O i l Tank 20 or 30 Footbrake Pedal Spindle Grease

-
2 Gearbox 50 8 Exposed Cables
- - --
3 Primary Chaincase 20 9 Fork (Hydraulic)
-
4 Wheel Hubs Grease 10 Swinging Fork Spindle Grease
- -
5 Steering Head Grease OIL-CAN LUBRICATION
All Brake Rod Joints and
Bmke Cam Spindle Grease Pins

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 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS
UNITED KINGDOM

UNIT WAKEFIELD

Enginesummer ......
Winter ......

Gearbox ...

Primary Chalnuse ...

Telescopic Fork-Summer ...

Wheel Bearings ......

Easing Rusted Parts

ClassicBike.biz
 RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS
OVERSEAS

UNIT MOBlL B.P. 1 WAKEFIELD I CALTEX

I
SHELL

Encrgol SAE.40 Caltcx SAE.40 Shcll X-100 40

Engine-Above 90°F. ... ... M o b ~ l oAF
~l
Encrgol SAE.30
Castrol X X L EssOlubc 40
Caltex SAE.30 Shcll X-100 30
32'-90°F. ... ... M o b ~ l oA~ l Castrol X L Essolubc 30
Encrgol Caltex Shcll X-100
B e l o w 32°F. ... ... M o b ~ l oArctlc
~l
5AE.20W
Castrol~tc Essolubc 2 0
SAE.2OW 20-2OW

Castrol
Gearbox ... ... ... ... Mobiloil D Encrgol SAE.50 Essolubc SO Caltex SAE.50 Shell X-100 50
Grand Prix

Encrgol Caltex Shell X-100

P r i m a r y Chaincasc ... ... Moblloil Arctic Castrolitc Essolubc 20
20-20W
SAE.2OW SAE.2OW

Telescopic F o r k ... ... ... Castrol Caltcx SAE.50 Shell X-100 50

A b o v e 90°F. ... ... ... M o b ~ l o iD
l Encrgol SAE.50 Grand P r ~ x Essolubc 50 Calrcx SAE.30 Shell X-100 30
6O0-90°F. ... ... ... Moblloll A Encrgol SAE.30 Castrol X L Essolube 30 Caltex She!l X-100
B e l o w 60°F. ... ... ... M o b i l o ~Arctic
l Encrgol SAE.20 Castrollre Essolube 20 SAE.2OW 20-20W
- - -4-

W h e e l Bearings, Swinging Forks, Mobilgrcasc Encrgrcasc Castrolcasc Mulr~purposc Marfak Shell

Steering Races ... ... ... M.P. L2 L.M. Grclse H Multipurpose 2 Retlnax A

Mobil Encrgol Castrol Esso Caltex Shell

Easing Rusted Parts ... ..
Spring Oil Pcnctrating O i l Pcnctrating O i l Pcnctrating O i l Pcnctrating O i l Donax P

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 FAULT F I N D l N G

The following paragraphs have been drawn u p t o cnablc thc rider t o diagnosc trouble which may arise during normal service. For each failure,
the faults and antidotes arc arranged i n order o r probability. In cach casc the rider should always look for the obvious, such as n o petrol, oil.
controls incorrectly set, cut-out w i r e shorting. and, before searching l o r an "A.C." ignition lault, always check over all electrical connections and
clean and tighten i f ncccssary; then follow w i t h the proccss o l climination.

E N G I N E WILL NOT START

Lack o f Fuel ... ... ... Tank empty, obstruction i n Pctrol Pipcs o r Tank Filtcrs chokcd.
Excessive Flooding ... ... D i r t under Float Necdlc Seating (Scc Page 150).
O i l u p o r fouled. Sparking Plug Removc, clcan o l l carbon and wash i n petrol. Allow t o dry.
Engine Valve stuck open ... Scc Page 46 l o r Valve Removal.
Exhaust Valve seatings burned ... Sec Page 46 for Valvc Rc~noval.
Magncto Cut-out shorting ... Disconncct Terminal a t Magncto and check spark a t Plng.
N o Spark at Plugs (Coil ignition) See Page 173.
Contact Points d i r t y ... ... Clcan w i t h Carborundum Stone, wash w i t h Petrol and re-gap.
Incorrect Contact Point Gap ... Re-gap t o 0.012"-0.015" (Magneto) 0.014"-0.016" (Coil)
(0.3-0.4 mm.) ,, (0.36-0.40 mm.) ,,
Contact Breaker A r m Sticking ... Remove A r m and clean Pivot w i t h nife cmery, grease lightly and replace A r m . Check gap.
H.T. Collector shorting t o body Remove Pick-ups and thoroughly clean; replace il cracked o r damaged.
Condensation on Sparking Plugs Removc Plugs and licat up.

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 FAULT FINDING

E N G I N E STOPS

N o Petrol or Fuel obstruction ...... ... Check Fuel In Tank. Supply at Carburettcr i f n o supply. Rcmovc Pipes and Tank Filters i f
necessary.
Choked Main Jet . . . . . . ... ... ... See Page 150.
W a t e r o n H.T. Leads. Pick-ups o r Sparking Plug Dry Ign~t~o System.
n
W a t e r i n Float Chamber ... ... ... Remove Carburetter and clean out.
Vent Hole i n Petrol Tank Filler Cap choked ... Clean out Vcnt Hole.
Battery lead oft (Coil) ... ... ... ... Re-connect.

E N G I N E MISFIRES
N
% Pefectivc o r oiled Sparking Plug ... ... Clean and test Plugs.
W a t e r fouling Main J e t . . . . . . ... ... Clean Carburcttcr.
.ncorrect Contact Breaker Gap ... ... Check and adlust to 0.012"-0 015" (Magneto) 0.014"-0.016" (Coil)
(0.30-0.40 mm.) .. (0.36-0.40 mm.) ..
Contact Points burned and arcing Remove Points and true w i t h a Carborundum Stone. Replace and re-gap: change Condenser
if trouble persists. T l i ~ sfault can be caused by contrnuous running i n the "EMG" p o s i t ~ o n
(coil).
Weak o r broken Valve Spring . . . . . . ... See Page 46 for Replacement.
Partial obstruction of Petrol Supply ... ... Clean o u t Carburetter and check Petrol supply a t Carburettcr end.
Slow Running Orifice choked . . . . . . ... See Page 150.
H.T. Cable perished and shorting to frame ... Replace H.T. Cable.
Sparking Plug insulation cracked ... ... Replace Sparking Plug.
Condenser failing . . . . . . ... ... ... See Page 173.
H.T. Cable o n Coil faulty (Coil ignition) ... Replace.

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 FAULT FINDING
LOSS O F P O W E R

Faulty Sparking Plugs ... ... Change.

Incorrect Tappct adjustnicnt ... Scc Pagc 36.
Lack or Lubrication ... ... Scc that O i l Ind~catorButton i s working (Scc Page 28). Chcck Supply i n O i l Tank.
Weak o r broken Valvc Spring ... Rcmovc Cylindcr Hcad (Scc Pagc 38).
Sticky Valve ... ... ... Rcrnovc Cylinder Hcad (Scc Pagc 38).
Valvcs n o t scating ... ... Scc Pagc 38.
Broken o r guninicd up Pistol1 Ring Scc Pagc 16.
Brakes binding ... ... ... Placc Marlt~t,coti tlic Stands and rc-adjust Brakcs.
Enginc r c q ~ t i r c sDccat-bonising ... Scc Pagc 37.
Head Gasket blowing ... ... Changc Gaskcc.
A i r Filter choked . . . . . . ... Rcrnovc, wash i n Pctrol, r c - o i l and rcplacc (Sce Pagc 153).
0.
D i r t y Carburctrcr ... ... Rcmovc and Clcan.

ENGINE OVERHEATS

Lack of Lubrication Clicck supply of O i l , scc that t h c Indicator Button is operating when t h e engine i s running:
i f not, r c f c r t o Pagc 28. Ensure that the correct O i l i s used.
Faulty Sparking Plugs ... ... ... ... Can cause prc-ignition: change and tcst.
Engine requires Dccarbonising . . . . . . ... Scc Pagc 37.
Ignition Timing t o o latc . . . . . . ... ... Check Timing (Scc Pages 67 and 68).
Exhaust Valvc burned, o r pittcd Valvc Scats ... Scc Pzgc 38.
Silenccr choked ... ... ... ... ... Rcmovc and clcan i n a solution o f caustic soda.
Piston Ring w o r n o r scircd 111 Pistoti Groovc ... Disrnantlc Etiginc (Scc Pagc 42).
Weak M i x r u r c ... .. ... ... ... Partly chokcd Jct, wot-n T l i r o t r l c Slidc, clicck by closing A i r Lcvcr.

ENGINE REVOLUTIONS P E R MINUTE

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 E N G I N E R E V O L U T I O N S PER M I N U T E
GEAR R A T I O

NOTE.-Engine R-P-M arc c=lculated i n conjunction w i t h 3.50 '< 19 Rcnr ryrc cquiprncnt-780 R-P-Mllc-2nd will d c v i l r c slightly l r o m above figurer for models nor so equipped
4.02 r: 1 8 Rear T y r e 785 R-P-Milc. 3.25 .: 1 9 Rear T y r c 793 R-P-Mile. 4.W x 1 9 R e r r T y r c 7 5 6 R-P-Mile

GEAR R A T I O S

GEARS STANDARD RATIO W I D E RATIO CLOSE R A T l O

Engine Sprocket T oP 3rd 2nd 1st 11 Top 3rd 2nd 1st

Gearbox Reduction

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Fi_p.
ILLUSTRATION I N D E X
Page
1
... ... ... F
1 Control layout ... ... ... ... ... 16
2 Petrol tap positions ....... ... ... ... ... ... ... 21 I
3 Lubrication diagram ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 26 1
4
5
O i l pump ... ... ...
O i l release valve and indicator
.......
... ...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
...
27
28
1
I

6 Crankcase assembly ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 34

7 Crankshaft assembly ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 34
8 Adjusting the tappets ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 36
9 Engine i n vice ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 42
10 Camwheel removal and replacement tool (Z89) ...... ... ... 43
11 Removing the camwheel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 44
12 Removing the crankshaft pinion ... ... ... ... ... ... 45
13 Crankshaft pinion removal tool (260) ... ... ... ... ... 45
14 Assembling the tappet block ... ... ... ... ... ... 48
15/16 Taper faced ring position ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 50
17 Checking connecting rod bolt stretch ... ... ... ... ... 54
18 Replacing the camwheel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 56
19 Position of timing pinion i n relation to camwheels and crankshaft pinion 57
20 Timing diagrams ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 58
21 Fitting the cylinder barrel ...... ... ... ... ... ... 59
22 Magneto i n timing position ...... ... ... ... ... ... 67
23 Distributor. i n timing position ... ... ... ... ... ... 69
24 Gearbox (Component ?arts) ... ... ... ... ... ... 72
25 Kickstarter return spring and spindle ... ... ... ... ... n
26 Gearbox casing i n vice ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 79
27 Clutch and shock absorber ...'... ... ... ... ... ... 84
28 Removal of clutch nuts ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 85
29 Method of removing shock absorber rubbers ... ... ... ... 86
30 Vizw of clutch showing rubber inserts in position ... ... ... 87
31 U?.eof clutch extractor and locking tool ...... ... ... ... €23
32 Drive shaft adaptor (Z90) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 89
33 Cl.itch locking tool ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 89
34 G;.arbox i n position (ST & 6T) ... ... ... ... ... ... 93
35 Ccarbox i n position (TI00 & T110) ... ... ... ... ... 94
36 Chains . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 96
37/38 Riv?t Extractors ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 97
39 Testing the adjustment of the steering head races ... ... ... 93
40 Telescopic fork ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 100 i

208

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 II
1 ILLUSTRATION INDEX
I
Fig. Page
1
I
41 Aligning the front fork ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 104
Adjusting the brakes . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 108
Front wheel (ST. 6T. TR5) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... 110
Front wheel (TI00 & T110) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... 112
Correct alignment of front wheels in forks ... ... ... ... 115
Rear wheel (5T 6T TRS) . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 117
Stud on rear brake anchor plate which must be located in rear fork
channel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 120
Rear wheel (TlDO & T110) ...... ... ... ... ... ... 122
Removing wheel from S/A frame ...... ... ... ... ... 124
Quickly detachable rear wheel (TI00 & T110) ... ... ... ... 127
Rear mudguard section removed for tyre repair o r wheel removed ... 131
Rear spring wheel (Component parts) ... ... ... ... ... 132
Spring wheel end plate removal ... ... ... ... ... ... 134
Rear spring wheel (Sectioned) ... ... ... ... ... ... 135
Jig for compressing plunger guide box springs ...... ... ... 136
lliustraticn showing the position of the valve i f the tyre has crept round
therim ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...
140
Girling hydrauiic dampe; unit ... ... ... ... ... ... 143
Twistgrip (ST. 6T. T100. T110) ... ... ... ... ... ... 146
Twistgrip (TR5) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 147
Amal carburetter ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 151
.
A i r filter (5T 6T. T100. T110) ... ... ... ... ... ... 153
A i r f i l t e r (TRS) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 154
S.U. Carburetter (Component parts) ... ... ... ... ... 1.56
S.U. Carburetter (Diagram) ...... ... ... ... ... ... 158
Dynamo model E3L ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 162
W i r i n g diagram (TIDO & T110) ... ... ... ... ... ... 164
Primary chaincase cover removed to show Rotor and Stator ...... 168
W i r i n g diagram (5T & 6T) ...... ...
... ... ... ... 169
Alternator model RM14 ... ... ...
... ... ... ... 170
Distributor model DKX2A with cover removed . . . . . . ... ... 171
Model 525 stop and tail lamp ... ... ... ... ... ... 175
Taking hydrometer readings ... ... ... ... ... ... 178
Battery model PU7E/9 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 173
Toolkit ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 181
5T & 6T Lubrication chart ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 200
TIM) & T110 Lubrication chart ... ... ... ... ... ... 201

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See Bookmarks

INDEX O F CONTENTS
Page
A .
A / C Lighting and ignition equipment ... ... ... ... .... 167
Adjusting the brakes . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ...... 108
Adjusting the steering head races ... ... ... . . . . . . ... 98
A i r filter ... ...... ... ... ... ... ... ... 153
Aligning the front fork ... ... ... ... ... . . . . . . 105
Alternator ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...... 170
Assembling and installing the front fork (ST. 6T. T l 0 0 & T110) ...... 105
Assembling and installing the front fork (TR5) ... ... ... ... 106
Assembling the brake drum and sprocket assembly (Q.D. rear wheel) ... 129
Assembling the clutch . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ...... 90
Assembling the engine ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 55
Assembling the fork pressure tube . . . . . . ... ... ... ... 103
Assembling the f r o n t brake anchor plate . . . . . . ... ... ... 113
Assembling the front wheel . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... 114
Assembling the gearbox ...... ... ... ... ... .... 80
Assembling the Q.D. rear wheel ... ... ... ... ... ... 130

Assembling the rear brake anchor plate (T100. T110)

.
Assembling the rear brake anchor plate (ST. 6T TR5) . . . . . . ...
... ... ... 125
119

Assembling the rear brake anchor plate (Q.D. rear wheel) ... ... 129
. .
Assembling the rear wheel (ST 6T TR5) . . . . . . ... ... ... 119
Assembling the rear wheel (T100. T110) ... ... ... ... ... 125
Assembling the spring wheel ...... ... ... ... ... ... 137
.
B Battery ...... ... ... ... .... ... ... ... ... 177
.
C Carburetter (Amal) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 150
Carburetter (S.U.) ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... 155
Chain alterations and repairs ... ... ... ... ... ... 96
Chain maintenance ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 95
Chain rivet extractor . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 97
Chains . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 92
Changing the fork springs ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 107
Changing the oil ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 30
Charts (Engine revolutions and Gear ratio) ... ... ... ... 207
Cleaning the motorcycle ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 149
Clutch and shock absorber unit ... ... ... ... ... ... 83
Coil ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 171
Controls ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 17
.
D Decarbonising . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 37
Dismantling. preparation and assembly of the engine units ... ... 46
Dismantling. preparation and assembly of fork units ... ... ... 103
Dismantling. preparation and assembly of gearbox units . . . . . . ... 77
Dismantling the anchor plate assembly (Q.D. rear wheel) ... ... 128
D i s m ~ n t l i n gthe brake drum assembly (Q.D. rear wheel) ... ... 128
Dismantling the clutch ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 83
Dismantling the engine ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 42
Dismantling the fork pressure tube assembly ... ... ... ... 102
Dismantling the front brake anchor plate . . . . . . ... ... ... 111
Dismantling the front wheel . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... 109
~ i s m a n t l i nthe ~ gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 76
Dismantling the Q.D. rear wheel ... ... ... ... ... ... 128

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-.
. .......
...

INDEX OF CONTENTS .

.
Dismantling the rear brake anchor plate (ST 6T, TR5) ...
Dismantling the rear brake anchor plate ( ~ 1 0 0& TllO) . . . . . .
Dismantling the rear wheel (ST, 6T, T R 5 ) . . . . . . ... ... ... 118
isma ant ling the rear wheel ( ~ 1 0 0& ~ 1 1 0 .) . . . . . ... ... ... 123
Dismantling the spring wheel ... ... ... ... ... ... 134
Distributor ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 171
Dynamo . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 163
E . Electrical equipment . . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 163
Engine (Description) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... . . . ' 33
Exhaust camshaft timing ... ... ... ... . . . . . . . . 64
:F Fault finding (A/C ignition) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... :J: 173
Fault finding (General) ... ... ... ... ... ... . 204
Fitting a sidecar ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . 148
Fitting the front wheel t o the fork . . . . . . ... ... ... 5. 114
Fitting the Q.D. r e a r wheel t o the frame . . . . . . ... ... ... 130
.
Fitting the rear wheel t o the frame (ST. 6T TR5)
Fitting the rear wheel t o the frame (T100. T110) . . . . . .
... ... ... 120
... ... 126
Fitting the spring wheel t o the frame ... ... ... ... ... 138
Frame ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 142
Front wheel ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 109
G. Gearbox ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 71
Girling suspension damper units ... ... ... ... ... ... 142
H . Headlamp and top nacelle unit ... ... ... ... ... ... 176
Horns ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 179
I . Ignition timing (Coil) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 68
Ignition timing (Magneto) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 67
Inlet camshaft timing . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 65
Inspection and replacement of worn parts (Front wheel) ... ... 111
Inspection and replacement of worn parts (Q.D. rear wheel) . . . . ... 128
.
Inspection and replacement of worn parts (Rear wheel ST. 6T TR5) ... 118
.
Inspection and replacement of w o r n parts (Rear wheel T I 0 0 T110) ... 124
.
Installing the engine (ST. 6T TRS) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... 61
.
Installing the engine (TI00 T110) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... 62
Installing the gearbox (ST. 6T TRS) .
Installing the gearbox (T100. T110) . . . . . .
... ... ... ... ... 81
... ... ... ... 82
J . Joint gaskets ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 152
L . Lamps ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 174
Lubrication maintenance ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 25
Lubrication system ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 25
M. Magneto . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 165
0 . O i l pump ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 27
O i l release valve and indicator ... ... ... ... ... ... 28
P . Petrol tap adjustment . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 148
Primary chain adjustment (ST. 6T. TRS) ... ... . . . . . . . ... 92
Primary chain adjustment (T100. T110) ... ... ... ... ... 94
Proprietary fittings (Addresses) ... ... ... ... ... ... 5
R . Racing carburetter settings . . . . . . ... ... .... ... ... 152
Racing ignition timing ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 66
Racing valve timing ... ... ... . . . . . . . ... ... ... 64

ClassicBike.biz
 INDEX OF CONTENTS
Page
Rear chain adjustment (5T. 6T. TR5) ........ ... ... ... 93
Rear chain adjustment (TlW. T110) . . . . . . ... ... ... ... 95
. . Rear wheel (Quickly detachable) ... ... ... .... ... ... 126
Rear wheel (Rigid frame) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 116
Rear wheel (Swinging fork frame) . . . . . . . . ... ... ... .... 121
Recommended lubricants ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 202
... ... 128
.
Removing the brake drum and sprocket (Q.D. rear wheel)
Removing the engine from the frame (ST 6T. TRS)
Removing the engine from the frame (T100. T110)
... ... ... 40
... ... ... 41
Removing the front fork from the frame . . . . . . . ... ... ... 99
~ e m o v i n gthe front wheel from the forks . . . . . . ... ... ... 109
Removing the gearbox from the frame (5T. 6T) . . . . . . ... .... 74
Removing the gearbox from the frame (TR5) ... ..: ... ... 75
Removing the gearbox from the frame (TI00 & T110) . . . . . . ... 75
Removing the Q.D. r e a r wheel from the frame ... ... ... ... 126
Removing the rear wheel from the frame (ST. 6T) ... ... ... 116
Removing the r e a r wheel from the frame (TI00 & T110) ... ... 121
Removing the spring wheel from the frame ... ... ... ... 131
Replacing the brake drum and sprocket in the frame (Q.D. rear wheel) 129
Routine maintenance ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 31
Running-in ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 23
.
S Service arrangements ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 4
Sparking plugs . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 180
Speedometer drive ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 92
Spring wheel Mk. 2 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 131
Starting the engine (Amal) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 20
Starting the engine (S.U.) ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 22
Swinging fork ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 142
SUPPLEMENTARY INSTRUCTIONS ... ... ... ... ... 184
Fitting a sidecar . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 185
Monobloc carburetter ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 186
T.l10 instructions ... ... ... ... ... . . . . . . . 187
3T de luxe ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 188
Spring wheel Mk 1 . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 193
.
T Tachometer drive ... ... ... ... ... ...... ... 92
Taking over the machine ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 20
Tappet adjustment ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 36
Technical data ST ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 6
Technical data 6T ... ... ... ... ... ... . . . . . . . 8
Technical data TR5 ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 10
Technical data TIOO . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... 12
Technical data TI10 . . . . . . ... ... ...... ... ... 14
Telescopic fork ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .... 98
Timing the engine ... ... ... ... ... ... . . . . . . . 64
Toolkit ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 183
Twistgrip control ... ... ... ... ...... ... ... 145
Tyres ... ... ...
... ... ... ... ... ... ... 139
.
V Valve timing record table ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 66
.
W Wheels . . . . . . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 108

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