Woodworking Crafts December 2017

Issue 33 November 2017
HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING ● TURNING ● RESTORATION ● DIY
FEATURE
Child’s play ‘Making Local
Woods Work’
A clip-together
toy castle
TECHNIQUES
Prepare for winter
Working with metal
Antique table repair
PROJECTS
Rustic clock
Make a spatula
Wardrobe office
Plans 4 you – settle
Recycled CD tree decorations
GREEN WOODWORKING • BATHROOM CABINET • RECYCLED PALLET TABLE
WWC33 COVER.indd 1 19/10/2017 14:56

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IFC_001_WWC_033.indd 2 27/09/2017 16:45

Community
6
Welcome
to the November issue of
Woodworking Crafts
Bonfire vanity
D
own south we make a satirical figure make their way to
particular thing about certain doom on one of the various
‘bonfyre’ – the celebration or bonfire pyres burning around the outer
commemoration, depending on your reaches of the town. I’ve been present
point of view, of the undoing of the once and decided our own spectacular
Gunpowder Plot. Our offices are based village celebrations were a safer but
in the ancient town of Lewes where this equally satisfying option.
has a particular resonance, what with Anyway, this leads on to the fact that
it being the resting place of Gundrada
(died 1085) and her husband William
de Warenne, who established the
November evinces the rather rapid
decline towards the end of 2017. The
weather, as ever, can be unpredictable,
71
Lewes Priory; the Battle of Lewes, I have a vast stock of logs ready to burn
which raised Simon De Montfort to on the woodburning stove, a stack of
the status of an ‘uncrowned king’; woodworking books to work my way
the Lewes Martyrs, 17 protestants through and all major woodworking
burned at the stake in 1557, the biggest projects done and dusted for this year,
ever bonfire of people in England; I’m glad to say. So, if the workshop
Thomas Paine English-American seems less than inviting I can at least
revolutionary and author of The Rights start planning my moves for next year.
of Man – you name it, this small Stay with us and keep reading and
Sussex town has history in spades and do your own rather more successful
then some. Lewesians’ own bonfire ‘plotting’ than Guido, Catesby and
celebrations, with no fewer than seven their pals.
bonfire societies, are swelled on the
night of 5 November by many other
Sussex bonfire societies making for a
tumultuous cacophony of explosions,
drumming, burning paraffin-soaked
torches and bangers that make the
hastily boarded up High Street a place
Anthony Bailey, Editor
not for the faint-hearted. A giant Guy
Fawkes and an equally giant topically Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com 59
2 www.woodworkersinstitute.com
WWC33_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER SUBBED.indd 2 28/09/2017 12:09

Community
In the 44
November issue... 18
COMMUNITY PROJECTS
5 Inspiration 6 Bathroom cabinet
12 News and events 18 Clip-together castle
21 This month’s contributors 25 Christmas decorations
32 Woodworking glossary – F 33 Wardrobe conversion
44 Feature – the Plunkett 39 Beautiful rustic clocks
Foundation
50 Woodland ways – our three
52 Plans 4 You – settle 39
native conifers 59 Recycled pallet table
64 Introducing Paul Adamson – 71 Carved spatula
green woodworker
70 Book reviews TECHNIQUES
75 Coming next month 14 Antique oak table repair
78 Ask the experts 28 Metal works
80 Trees for life – Teak 42 Perfect panels
88 Focus on – The Tillamook Air 54 Aim high – improving your
Museum technique
62 Winter check-up Woodwork on the web
To find more great projects, tests and
KIT & TOOLS 67 #@*&!%?! Happens techniques like these, visit our
– Short wood fantastic website at: www.
68 Kitted out woodworkersinstitute.com
74 Workshop tips
Woodworking Crafts issue 33 3
WWC33_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER SUBBED.indd 3 04/10/2017 14:53

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Community
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

These doors have a rippled,
almost watery appearance
Design
INSPIRATION
Storing all those bottles, Let the mirrors be the doors...
aerosols, tubes and

toothbrushes is always a
problem – so do it in style
Fabric-backed doors and woven

The rus c look, perhaps? baskets create a presence
A clean, tradi onal style that will fit in Open frames with a mirror back serve as
A slimline cupboard for visual effect any se ng shelves too
WWC33_5_DESIGN_INSPIRATION SUBBED.indd 5 28/09/2017 12:17

Project
Build a
Bathroom cabinet
Alan Holtham shows us just how simple
beauty can be with this contemporary design
T
his little job followed a request
for a cabinet for a modern
minimalist bathroom. The
only stipulation was that it should be
very simple with no ornate detailing
or moulding, just plain, square edges.
The design could easily be modified
to become a kitchen storage unit or a
display case for the living room with
glass doors instead of mirrors.
After some discussion the chosen
timbers were maple with contrasting
ovangkol for the doors and drawers.
Mixing woods is not always successful,
particularly when the contrast is quite
stark, but in this case I think it works
quite well – experiment with your
own timbers.
Maple boards are readily available
from even relatively small timber
merchants, but the quality does vary
so select your boards carefully as some
grades will only have one good face.
1 It is a timber that usually cups

quite badly during drying, so cut
everything more or less to length just
before you start planing in order to
maximise the available thickness.
2 Cut out the longest lengths first

and save the shorter pieces for the
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALAN HOLTHAM
shelf dividers.
3 Buy plenty of material as the boards

are often split quite well into the
ends – a fact that may not be apparent
until you start cutting it up.
4 Maple is also very susceptible to

staining if it gets wet. This leaves
a grey discolouration that is too deep
to plane out, so avoid any boards that
WWC33_6_11_Bathroom cabinet SUBBED.indd 6 28/09/2017 12:27

Project
Main joints strengthened

using dowels throughout
Glazed doors with glass set into

groove all round in frame. Joints
dowelled and glued, inner edge
of frame has stopped mitre
3
Drawers constructed using routed
drawer lock joint on all four corners, Shelf dividers dowel
drawer bottom set into groove all round jointed top and bottom
show any sign of having been exposed
to the weather.
5 Make the initial planing cuts with

the concave surface facing down on
the planer beds. This is the only way
you will straighten bowed material.
These initial cuts will remove more
material from the ends than the
middle, but with successive cuts the
board starts to become straighter
and flatter. 4 5
Cupped boards often require a lot of
work to flatten, but as long as you get
a planed surface down either side it is
often easier to remove the rest on the
thicknesser.
Once one face is flat and true use
this as the reference against the planer
fence to true up one edge, checking
the grain orientation to minimise
tearing.
6 If the boards are quite variable in

width it is now quicker to size them
all by first passing them through a
tablesaw set to a fraction over finished
width… ➤ 6

Project
760 150
18 18
27 211 212 211 27

18 18 18 18
140 140
670
18 18
45
310 45 245 45 18
4
255 300 390 390
310
900 864 900
45 16
18 18
326 326
18
140 140
18 18
18 18 122
211 212 211 15 13
140 140
128
18 18
FRONT ELEVATION SECTION
Cutting List
18 18
150 670 TOP/BASE 2 @ 760 x 150 x 18
SIDES 2 @ 864 x 150 x 18
45 245 45 255 SHELVES 3 @ 670 x 150 x 18
DIVIDERS 7 @ 140 x 150 x 18
4 16
SECTION DOORS
STILES 4 @ 390 x 45 x 16
RAILS 4 @ 245 x 45 x 16
13
MIRRORS 2 @ 310 x 255 x 4
DRAWERS
185
FRONTS 3 @ 211 x 140 x 15
13 150 13
134 128 122 SIDES 6 @ 134 x 140 x 13
191
211 BACKS 3 @ 211 x 140 x 13
DRAWER DETAILS
BOTTOMS 3 @ 191 x 128 x 4
15

Project
7 8 9
7 …and then feeding them through

the thicknesser to
get the final dimension. As the boards
are all the same width it is quite
safe to feed several through together
and this will also help to stop them
tipping sideways.
8 The ovangkol started out as some

very scrappy-looking 75mm material
full of deep cracks that I did hesitate
about cutting up for firewood. 10
9 A job like this allows you to cut it

up into small sections that can be
worked around the defects. Just cut
plenty and be ruthless at cutting out
any splits that could open up later.
10 Plane and thickness this material

in the same way, but take extra
care with these heavily interlocked
hardwoods as they will often tear no
matter which way you plane them.
11 12
11 The mirrors were sourced from

a local DIY store and, as they are
the determining factor, start by making
the doors.
12 The door components are

dowelled together using the
6mm Joint Genie jig. This very simple
piece of kit makes dowelling foolproof.
13 Two dowels will suffice in each

corner, but make sure that the
holes are drilled deep enough so that
the joint will close up tight. 13
14 The mirrors need a 4mm wide

groove to a depth of about 5mm.
The easiest way to machine this is
using a grooving cutter with the router
mounted under a table.
15 Remember to stop the groove

on the stiles or it will show on
the ends of the doors. Set the groove
deep enough to leave the mirror
slightly loose in the frame to prevent it
cracking if the door moves later. ➤ 14 15

Project
16 17 18
16 Put ‘start’ and ‘stop’ marks on

the table fence to make sure you
cut the groove to the right length.
17 My one concession to alleviating

the plainness of the doors was to
machine a stopped chamfer along the
inside edges using a bearing-guided 45°
chamfer bit.
19 20
18 The doors can now be glued up
but put a tiny bit of clear silicone
mastic in the groove to stop the mirror
rattling about.
19 With the door size now

determined you are able to
set out the main carcass components
you’ve already cut.
20 Once again use the Joint Genie

jig, but this time the 8mm
version, marking across matching
21 22
components to ensure that they line
up perfectly.
21 End dowels are drilled in the

same way, but the jig must be
firmly clamped. Remember that the
components start to become ‘handed’,
so mark a face edge and always work
from this on each piece.
22 Make a trial assembly to make

sure that everything fits correctly
– it is much easier to make corrections
now rather than when it is half
assembled. Dismantle it all and sand 23
thoroughly.
23 When there are so many

individual components it is far
easier to glue up in stages, doing all
the internal bits first and letting them
dry…
24 ….before completing the

outer components. Clamps
should only be necessary to hold it
together, not pull it together. Excessive
pressure always starts pulling things
out of square. 24

Project
25 26 27
25 Now machine up the drawer

fronts, ideally cutting them
from one piece to maintain the grain
continuity.
26 The drawers are jointed using

the drawer lock jig, cutting the
fronts first…
28 29
27 ….and then the sides.
28 Adjust the fence position

to machine the joint for the
drawer back…
29 …and then put a groove for the

drawer bottom in each piece.
30 The bottom itself is a piece of

4mm white faced MDF, cut to
be a fraction under size to allow easy
30 31
fitting.
31 Give the doors a thorough

sanding with a random orbit
sander, finishing off with 320 grit
abrasive to achieve a smooth final
finish.
32 Fit the hinges, drilling proper

sized screw holes in the hard
maple or you risk shearing off the
delicate screws. I used 65mm hinges 32
to give plenty of support to the
heavy doors.
33 Remember that this unit is

going to live in a hot and steamy
atmosphere, so fine-tune the drawers
to have plenty of clearance and be an
easy sliding fit.
34 Finish with three or four coats of

pre cat cellulose lacquer applied
with a brush flatted down between
coats. ■ 33 34

Community
NEWS & EVENTS

All the latest events and news from the world of woodworking
The world’s first miscanthus

(elephant grass) bale house
I
n an idyllic location in West
Wales, a house is being built – but
no ordinary house. In what is
believed to be a world first, its walls
are being built out of miscanthus
bales. A collaborative project by the
University of Aberystwyth, the Centre
for Alternative Technology (CAT)
and commercial partner Terravesta
is exploring the potential to use
miscanthus as a building material to
help decarbonise the construction
industry.
A perennial carbon-negative
renewable energy crop that is grown
on around 8,000ha of low-grade
marginal UK land, miscanthus has
been identified as having outstanding
building credentials, with excellent
insulation value. Following successful
test building last year, the partners are miscanthus biomass is made up particular markets. These have typically
now working on building a miscanthus of carbon directly captured from been the biomass and bioplastics
bale house that will still be standing in the atmosphere in photosynthesis. markets, but by matching up our
100 years. Locking this carbon up in building understanding of the plant properties
The miscanthus bales are being used materials actually reduces atmospheric with the requirements of the building
as infill for a timber frame, in the same levels of CO2. industry, we can potentially breed for
way as wheat straw bales are often Dr Judith Thornton of the Beacon the house-building market.
used, with the surface of the bales Project said: ‘Miscanthus is currently In the future we could be using
providing a ready key for internal clay grown from rhizome. It is planted prefabricated panels of miscanthus
plaster and external render. once and harvested every spring for to build houses, and we could
In conventional building, the carbon 20-plus years. Our scientists have produce loft insulation or fibreboards,’
footprint is heavy and one house taken different types of miscanthus Judith added.
construction can create 50 tonnes of and crossed them to develop hybrids The bales are being incorporated
CO2. In contrast, approximately 40% of that can be grown from seed to suit into the Little Welsh House Project
being run as a series of short
courses by the Centre for Alternative
Technology, helping self-builders get
to grips with environmentally sound
building materials and methods.
For details of courses at the Centre
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WWW.CAT.ORG.UK
for Alternative Technology, visit:

www.cat.org.uk
Ed note – Miscanthus species are

potentially something of a miracle
plant, that, depending on which
species is used, can be biomass
pellets, road fuel or a composite fibre
in plastics, paper pulp and animal
bedding, etc.
WWC33_12_13_NEWS & EVENTS SUBBED.indd 12 28/09/2017 12:30

Community
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE WOODLAND TRUST

A3 expansion at Wisley
has potential impact on
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY
ancient woodland
PHOTOGRAPH BY PETER SEFTON
Vic Tesolin (left) and Peter Sefton (right) will

be appearing at the Northern Woodworking
and Powertool Show, Harrogate
Shows
Woodworking and Powertool Show
27-28th October 2017, Concerns raised by the Royal Horticultural Society in Wisley, Surrey,
Westpoint, Exeter over plans to widen the busy A3 could be echoed in terms of impact
www.wptwest.co.uk/ on ancient woodland which sits on the opposite side of the road,
according to the Woodland Trust. The Grade II listed gardens would
Tweed Valley Forest Fesধval see the loss of at least 500 individual trees if the road is expanded to
Tweed Valley Forest Park and Peebles, 21-29 the west, but to the east sits irreplaceable ancient woodland, which
October, 2017 forest-fesধval.com is one of the UK's rarest habitats, covering just 2% of the countryside.
Woodland Trust director of conservation Austin Brady said: ‘The
Northern Woodworking and Powertool Show proposed expansion of the A3 is stuck between a rock and a hard
17-19 November 2017, Great Yorkshire place, with both suggestions likely to have a huge environmental
Showground, Harrogate impact. We are lobbying for stronger protection for ancient
www.skpromoধons.co.uk woods, trees and other habitats, but until this is implemented we
will continue to see cases where the environment is a secondary
Christmas Market, Weald and Downland concern.’ The recent Housing White Paper suggested amends to
Museum the National Planning Policy Framework which put ancient woods
Singleton, West Sussex and trees on a par with other designated habitats such as National
24-26 November 2017 Parks. The government is due to respond to the paper with its
www.wealddown.co.uk/whats-on/ recommendations later this year. The Woodland Trust is currently
fighting more than 720 cases where ancient woodland is threatened
by development across the UK, more than 150 of which are by road
or rail infrastructure.
www.woodlandtrust.org.uk
Web links for you
Instagram Facebook Pinterest
www.instagram.com/woodworking_ The Green Wood Exchange – join the woodworking ideas workshop – key
art/ – the key here is natural, as group and post, buy and sell with other that in and you will find plenty of
in waney edge, natural edge, big like-minded green woodies. useful ways to fit out a workshop.
impressive grain. The wood stands out, Something for everyone.
plenty of nice ways to show off wood,
basically, and be a bit different.
YouTube
Simple sturdy workbench build –
using just a portable saw, corded
or cordless drill and a workmate or
similar, you too can build a sturdy
bench to be proud of.
WWC33_12_13_NEWS & EVENTS SUBBED.indd 13 28/09/2017 12:30

Technique
Restoration of an
Antique oak table
Louise Biggs
gives a much-
loved early
Georgian oak
table some vital
restoration
T
his oak table has
descended through my
client’s family and in
the past has been used for all
sorts of things including being
a sewing table. Needing a few
repairs the clients asked that the
surface be disturbed as little as
possible – although somewhat
stained they felt this was all part
Tool list
of its character. Dating from Removing the top • Animal hide glue and glue pot
the early 1700s it was now in Before any restoration could begin • Block, smoothing and try planes
need of some restoration. Oak the top had to be separated from • Dovetail and gent’s saw
(Quercus robur) reclaimed from the frame. At some point someone • Chisels – various sizes
old dismembered furniture was had decided the best option was to • File
used throughout the restoration. nail around the sides and back edge. • Hacksaw blade
• Rubber mallet
• Sash and G-clamps
Assessment • Hand plane and bench dogs)
• Tablesaw
1. Broken back corner - the piece was
• Cat’s paw
missing but formed the second part of
the joint which connected the top to
the frame. These now needed to be removed.
The oak was dense, the nails rusty and
2. Made up from three boards, the top
the client did not want the surface
had split through the middle on one
disturbed. Levering the top off was
joint and was loose on the second joint.
not an option as it was held by the
3. Nailed to the frame along the sides dovetails and, after two different failed
and back edge the top could not move Damage to the back corner of the top attempts to remove the nails, I took the
without splitting. showing the slip dovetail. decision to cut them. Not my preferred
4. The table frame was loose and would method, as I don’t like leaving
need tightening. unnecessary metal within the furniture,
if only for the benefit of those restorers
5. Both drawer runners were worn and
following along behind me.
needed replacing.
1
6. The cockbeading around the drawer Levering with my ‘cat’s paw’ as
front was loose with the two short much as possible and wearing a
sections missing.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE BIGGS
protective glove, I used a hacksaw

7. The central partition was nailed blade to cut through each nail. When
through the front, back and bottom it came to the slip dovetails on the
and although it was probably a later back legs I managed to feed the blade
addition the clients had asked for it to Cockbeading on the drawer front missing in from the back edge. Thankfully the
be fitted properly. and with crushed corners. front legs had no nails going into the
slip dovetail. With the top removed the
WWC33_14_16_ANTIQUE TABLE REPAIR SUBBED.indd 14 28/09/2017 12:33

Technique
nails were filed down flush with the

top or rails. Construction feature
Although quite an ordinary piece of furniture the table had a feature that I have
Restoring the table frame never seen before and could possibly mark it out as being a more high-end piece of
2 Knocking apart the frame the

old drawer runners were timber
sections which also acted as the drawer
furniture at the time it was made as quicker and cheaper options of fitting the top
were available.
The top was held to the frame using what can only be described as a type of dry
guides. These were shaped around the slip dovetail. The top of each leg was cut with a dovetail and this corresponded with
legs before being glued to the side rails four dovetailed slots on the underside of the top.
and nailed to the legs. The back slots ran straight off the back edge. The front slots had a wider square
cut slot behind the dovetail slot in order to drop the front legs into the top before
3 Saw cuts were made through the

drawer rails close to the legs to
separate the pieces containing the
locking onto the dovetails as the top was moved back on the frame.
When completed the top was fitted dry onto the frame. This allowed the top to
move freely without causing any damage while holding it firmly to the frame.
nails. This allowed the frame to be
knocked apart using a rubber mallet.
4 With the frame apart the small

pieces of drawer runner could be
split around the nails using a chisel
before removing the nails.
5 The front rail, although slightly loose,

had two nails through each tenon.
Assessing the amount of damage which
would be caused in trying to remove
the nails it was decided to wedge the
joints. Animal hide glue was injected
into the joints, the rail and legs were
clamped before a chisel was knocked in
at an angle above the rail in line with the
tenon and the wedges inserted.
The old drawer runners were planed
off, leaving the drawer guides and all
the mortise and tenon joints cleaned of
old glue.
Restoring the top 1 2
6 Attention turned to the broken

corner. The break was ragged
and the replacement piece of timber
needed a strong joint as it was right at
the point of the dovetail slot for the
back leg. Low-tack masking tape was
used to mark long angled joint lines,
which eliminated the damage and
would form a strong joint.
7 Using a gent’s saw the various angles

were cut and the joint surfaces trued
up using a wide chisel. ➤ 3 4
5 6 7

Technique
8 Having marked out the joint on the

replacement timber, it was cut and
trued up with a chisel until a tight fit
was achieved.
9 The piece was glued and clamped

into position and, when dry, planed
level with a smoothing plane.
10 On the edges of the three

top sections the old glue was
removed before the edges were trued
up using a try plane (the length of
the plane keeping the edge straight). 8 9
The top sections were then re-glued
and clamped.
With the back legs and rail already
glued back together, the back and front
frames were glued up to the side rails
and the frame clamped. With both the
top and frame glued up they could
be checked for square against each
other as it was important that the slip
dovetails lined up when the top was
fitted to the frame.
Cockbeading and
drawer runners
10 11
11 The existing pieces of
cockbeading around the drawer
front were cleaned up and re-glued in
position. Small sections were cut into
either end of the long sections to make
up the crushed corners and shaped to
match.
12 Then the sections of old timber

were mitred and fitted to the
ends of the drawers before being
planed level and shaped to match.
New runners were made from old
timber, cut to fit around the legs like
the original ones and glued into place,
before being pinned with old nails. 12 13
Final assembly and

conclusion
13 With the top re-glued the
dovetail slot was cut through
the replacement piece of timber to
match the remaining existing slot.
Cut down either side with a dovetail
saw, the waste was then chiselled
out and adjusted until the top fitted
the frame.
14 The repairs were stained and

polished to match, with the back
corner of the top being coloured in to
match the existing stain. With a final
coat of wax the table was reassembled
and ready to go home with a top that
can now move freely without the
danger of splitting. ■ 14

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017_WWC_033.indd 17 27/09/2017 16:49

Project
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY

Play castle
Castles in the air, dreamers everywhere,
building castles in the air, like
dreamers everywhere*…
t’s nearly Christmas, so here’s a fun way to keep the
I children amused. Buy a cheap packet of knight play

figures and build this slide-together castle – perfect
on the lounge floor after Christmas Day lunch when the
adults are dozing in their armchairs.
1 This project uses 6mm MDF or ply throughout, which

can be either sealed or painted when complete.
Cutting the board out over size makes it easier to handle.
* Lyrics © Jean-Paul Maunick/Dominic Oakenfull/Julian Crampton
WWC33_18_20_Clip together castle SUBBED.indd 18 28/09/2017 12:34

Project
30 60 30
80
100
120
30 26 30 26 30 26 30 26 30 26 30
220
75
70
345 20
550
20 115 Front/Back
190
1 125
100
68 75
645
550
75
70
6
20
2
20
2 Carefully lay out the design using 190

Side
the plan as a guide. If you use the
typical size of figures you can check the 88
design looks in scale with them.
3
645
A bandsaw is the easy way to cut
out the towers and crenellations.
However, you need to be a bit
ingenious with your cuts, including
marking the reverse face as well so you
can get under the bandsaw guides for
all the cuts.
4 Carefully nibble out at the bottom

of each crenellation. Don’t worry
if the cuts aren’t perfectly straight,
castles cannot have been in perfect 3 4
order – especially after a few assaults
by the enemy.
5 Drill an entry hole for the jigsaw

so you can cut the arch shape.
This is quite wide to allow for plenty
of fighting underneath the imagined
portcullis.
6 Try to get a nice symmetrical arch

profile when cutting and tidy the
shape with a wood file afterwards.
5 6
7 The front elevation should look

something like this. Get this one
right and you can use it as a template
for the other three sides.
8 Mark out two slots that will allow

the sides to clip together. The
board is 6mm thick and the cutter will
be 6.4mm, which gives just enough
movement without binding. ➤
7 8

Project
10
9 Use a straight-edge or router

T-square to make both through
slots. Keep them the same on both the
castle back and front so they match.
10 Now draw out the other three

castle sides using the front as
the template. You can tidy the lines
once the template is lifted off.
11 The adjoining sides to the front

and back are different because
they still need a buttress shape at the
bottom, which has a short slot for the
front and back to hook into and a tab
above which pushes through the upper 11 12
routed slot. This will hold the castle
parts together.
12 The tab at the top will need

trimming to get a good firm
fit in the slot, but the resultant joints
should look like this one. Mark all the
joints so you know which goes where.
These can be sanded off later with
more discreet marking applied instead.
13 A small pad is glued on the

front for the drawbridge ramp
and 20 x 20mm batten glued across
13
inside to take a walkway.
14 More 20 x 20mm batten

is glued on to support the
ramparts. The position should allow
knights to see and aim weapons
between the crenels (uprights).
15 With the ramp in place, the

last thing to glue in will be the
walkway behind the arch. ■ 14 15

Community
Meet the contributors...

We put all of this month’s professional and reader contributors
here, so you know exactly who they are and what they do
Louise Biggs Michael T Collins

Having completed her City & Guilds, British-born Michael has been working
Louise trained for a further four years with wood off and on for 40 years. He
at the London College of Furniture. She moved to New York in 1996 and, over
joined a London firm working for top the years, has made bespoke furniture,
antique dealers and interior designers including clocks, inlay work, Adam
in London before starting her own fireplaces, bookcases and reproduction
business designing and making bespoke furniture.
furniture and restoring furniture. Web: www.sawdustandwoodchips.com
Web: www.anthemion-furniture.co.uk
Neil Lawton Paul Adamson

Neil is a woodworker/turner who Paul Adamson runs green woodworking
specialises in the use of reclaimed courses in his native Derbyshire and
and recycled materials in his projects likes to hand carve and use woodenware
and seasons native timbers for his from the green wood he gathers during
turning work. He works from his home local woodland management works.
workshop in York, North Yorkshire, Bushcraft, spooncarving and kuksa
and works part time in the Design vessels are among the many things
Technology department of the local he enjoys teaching out in the local
school. woodland.
Web: www.workerinwood.co.uk Web: www.pauladamsoncrađ.co.uk
marksworkshop@gmail.com
Simon Rodway Gary Marshall

Simon Rodway has been an illustrator Gary has had a life-long interest in
for our magazine since ‘the dawn of woodlands and the countryside. He
time’ itself, drawing on his experience trained in countryside management
in the field of architecture. He also and subsequently ran a company
runs LineMine, a website with articles working with the local County Councils
and online courses on drawing and Unitary Authority and their
software. A new course, SketchUp for Countryside and Rights of Way Teams,
Woodworkers, is proving really popular. as well as a wide range of conservation
Web: www.linemine.com/courses organisations.
Your face and details could appear here in our ‘rogues’ gallery’ if you write an
article for the magazine, and you could be rewarded for your efforts too.
Editor Anthony Bailey Email: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com, Designer Jan Morgan, Head of SUBSCRIPTION RATES (includes postage & packing)
Woodworking Design Oliver Prentice, Senior Editorial Administrator Karen Scott, Illustrator UK Europe Rest of World
Simon Rodway (www.linemine.com), Chief Photographer Anthony Bailey, Group Editor, 12 issues: £51.00 £63.75 £71.40
Woodworking Mark Baker, Production Manager Jim Bulley, Production Controller Amanda 24 issues: £102.00 £127.50 £142.80
Allsopp Email: repro@thegmcgroup.com, Publisher Jonathan Grogan, Advertising Sales Executive
Russell Higgins Email: russellh@thegmcgroup.com, US customers should call the Subscription Department for subscription rates in USD ($).
Marketing Anne Guillot, Subscriptions Helen Johnson Tel: 01273 402 873 Fax: 01273 478 606
Cheques made payable to: GMC Publications Ltd.
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Current subscribers will automatically receive a renewal notice (excludes direct debit
Printed in the UK by Stephens and George Print Group, Distributed by Seymour Distribution Ltd
subscribers). Post your order to: The Subscription Department, GMC Publications Ltd, 166
Tel: 020 7429 4000 WOODWORKING CRAFTS (ISSN 2057-3456) is published every four weeks
High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XU, UK. Tel: +44 (0)1273 488 005 Fax: +44 (0) 1273
by GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XN
402866 Email: pubs@thegmcgroup.com Web: www.thegmcgroup.com
Woodworking is an inherently dangerous pursuit. Readers should not attempt the procedures described herein without seeking training and information on the safe use of tools and machines, and all readers should
observe current safety legislation. Views and comments expressed by individuals in the magazine do not necessarily represent those of the publishers and no legal responsibility can be accepted for the results of
the use by readers of information or advice of whatever kind given in this publication, either in editorial or advertisements. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted
in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.
WWC33_21_CONTRIBUTORS SUBBED.indd 21 28/09/2017 12:35

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024_WWC_033.indd 24 10/5/17 4:57 PM

Project
Shining
bright
By Carol and
Homer Bishop
T
hese ornaments sparkle like
diamonds when you light up
your Christmas tree.
No one will ever know they are made
from recycled materials. The slotted
designs are easy to cut and assemble
and make creative gift tags in addition to
being unique ornaments.
The ornaments can be cut from
plywood or hardwoods, but the shiny
surface of CDs or DVDs gives them an
added dimension. The danger of the
plastic melting back together is the most
difficult part of cutting CDs. Run your
saw at a lower speed and use a sharp
skip-tooth blade to minimise melting. ➤
WWC33_25_27_Christmas ornaments SUBBED.indd 25 28/09/2017 12:36

Project
Materials
• Several CDs or DVDs
1 Prepare the CD blanks. Apply spray
adhesive to the backs of both CDs.
Press them together on a hard, flat
3 Test fit the ornament pieces. Wipe
off the CDs with a soft rag soaked in
mineral spirits to remove any remaining
• 1⁄4in x 5in x 5in lauan plywood per surface with the shiny side of both CDs adhesive or fingerprints. Make sure the
CD (to support CDs) facing out. Tape the CDs to a piece of slotted ornaments slide together easily.
• Metallic cotton embroidery thread 1
⁄4in-thick lauan plywood. The plywood Sand the wings of the dove and angel
(ornament hangers) adds support and prevents splitting. so they fit together tightly when glued.
• Spray adhesive Attach the patterns with spray adhesive. Coat the back of any fragile pieces with
• Cyanoacrylate glue Drill the 1⁄8in-diameter holes for the cyanoacrylate glue.
• Blue painter’s tape hanger and any blade entry holes.
Tools
• #4 skip-tooth blades or blades 2 Cut the pieces. Use a new #4 skip-
tooth blade or your blade of choice.
4 Glue the ornaments together.
Place a drop of CA glue at the end
of the slots on the slotted ornaments
of choice Keep the saw speed slow to prevent and slide the two pieces together.
• Sanders of choice the plastic from melting. If you notice Apply just enough glue to cover the
• Drill press with 1⁄8in-diameter bit the burr on the edges of the cut getting edges of the components of the other
bigger, slow down the saw or install ornaments. Do not let the glue squeeze
a new blade. Peel off the patterns out of the joints. Glue the tapered
and tape. Use a fingernail to scrape wings on to the dove and angel. Add
off small burrs and remove the larger a string to the top to complete the
burrs with a hobby knife. ornament. ■

Project
1 2
3 4
Big Book of Christmas

ornaments and decorations
Fox Chapel Publishing
ISBN: 978-1-56523-606-6
Price: £12.99

Technique
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALAN HOLTHAM

METAL
WORKS
You just can’t make things in Above: A perfect example of how different
metals are used in one machine. High speed
wood without metal steel (HSS) cu ers and limiters are held in the
machined, anodized aluminium cu er block
H
umans and animals are tool users. We humans create by steel dovetail wedges and hardened steel
thousands, millions of different tools. All down the ages grub screws. In turn, the block is secured to a
tools have been developed, from flint to bronze to iron precision turned steel spindle with steel spacers
to steel. We use metal fixings and fittings – screws, nails, hinges, and cap ve nut. The fences are extruded,
brackets, knobs, handles, locks – the list goes on. Here is a glimpse anodized aluminium, held in place with steel
of some metals we commonly use. machine screws with ABS plas c knobs.
FERROUS METAL (containing iron)

Cast iron
A cast iron sliding

This is smelted iron ore (heated to 1,150-1,200°C) with crosscut table for a saw
a carbon content greater than 2%. There are different with hardened steel
types of cast iron – white, grey and ductile. Generally running wheels. Cas ngs
they are brittle apart from malleable cast iron, having a are quite rough when
definite crystalline structure. If a hand plane hits the floor first made and large
after falling off a workbench it is quite possible to crack ones for machines are
the casting. This is more likely with vintage or antique le outside in the open
metal-bodied planes as the castings are often thinner and atmosphere to ‘se le’
a less forgiving alloy. Drilling holes in cast iron is possible as cast iron moves
using engineering drill bits. Due to the shape at the tip it out of shape, then the
is necessary to start with a small drill to create the initial cri cal surfaces will be
countersink shape then swap to the desired larger size to machined and ground
continue the drilling operation. flat and true.
WWC33_28_31_METAL WORKS SUBBED.indd 28 28/09/2017 12:38

Technique
Lubricant
A hammer needs to be m made from the

Lubricant is essential for drilling
in iron or steel. It reduces heat correct grade of steel and the head a
area
at the tip and cutting area, which hardened enough without it sha ering. The
can damage the drill bit and sha also has to be able to withstand the
harden the metal you want to cut force of the hammering ac on.
through. Engineering lubricant
– traditionally called ‘milk’
because of its appearance – is
continuously fed on to the work
area. You can apply it using an oil
can or other dispenser. Do NOT
use water – it cools the metal too
rapidly and creates rusting.
Steel
teel
There
here are literally hundreds off steel Mild steel has a limited
oys and they have a variety of
alloys deg
degree of malleability when
operties. It is an alloy of iron with
properties. cold, which increases
in greatly after
rbon, which sounds similar to
carbon, heating to high tempera
emperature – useful for
temperature
st iron but its internal structure is
cast creating bracket shapes from m flat
flat steel,
ite different due to the interaction
quite for example in the home workshop.
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
tween its crystalline forms and the

between Special types of tool steel such as high
oying elements. Over hundreds of
alloying speed steel or cryogenically treated
ars different steel-making processes
years steel are used in applications such as
ve evolved and the types and purity
have woodturning tools.
of steel have improved
improved. It is now Plane and chisel blades use various
produced in a variety of grades that steel alloys to achieve better, long
are made to specific international lasting cutting edges.
standards. Most steels rust in the
presence of water except for some
superior grades of stainless steel. Quenching
Lubricant applied directly on to Outdoor fittings and fixings can be Quenching is used to cool metal
the cu ng area to keep both tool galvanised to give effective protection after high-temperature heating in a
and stock at a lower temperature against rusting. forge or hearth. Water quenching
to prevent overhea ng, hardening Mild steel can be drilled but harder is fast but can undermine
and damage. grades can prove difficult or even the strength of the steel. Oil
impossible with conventional drill bits. quenching, though smelly when
hot, is much more controlled for a
safer, predictable result.

Nick Westermann demonstra ng

the different stages in making a
O en you need to make up brackets bearded axe, from a block to the
and other shapes in the workshop. Here finished shape. At various stages
two addi onal holes are about to be during the process the metal will
drilled. An engineer’s punch is used to have been intensely heated, worked,
create a small indent. Then the starter reheated, worked and then quenched
recess is done with a small engineer’s drill A standard steel plane blade mounted as necessary in order to achieve
bit followed by a larger one and finally in a cheap no.5 jack plane about to be malleability when working the metal
an even larger one is used to create a replaced with a thicker, high quality Ray and the correct degree of hardness
countersink. All this needs to be done Iles carbon steel version, which will hold for use as an axe.
mounted securely on a pillar drill table. its cu ng edge longer. ➤

Technique
NON-FERROUS METALS (generally accepted as softer metals than iron)
PHOTOGRAPH BY NICK ARNULL

Copper
Copper is very ductile, i.e. flexible,
making it suitable for plumbing
pipework and electrical cables and
flexes. It doesn’t generally figure in
the workshop apart from the already
mentioned uses, although there are
copper-coated non-rusting hardboard
pins and copper nails for Arts & Crafts
projects for visual detail.
Brass
This is an alloy of copper and zinc and
looks like neither of them, having a
yellowish colour.
By altering the proportion of copper
to zinc, different brass alloys can be
created. Brass is typically used for
decorative domestic items and for
compression plumbing fittings. Expert woodturner Nick Arnull taking a different tack by shaping a flat copper sheet
In woodwork it is used for making over a blank turned wooden dish. The pleasing faceted finish is known as ‘planishing’,
hinges and knobs and restoration here done with a domed mallet but o en done with a planishing hammer.
brassware generally. Modern hinges
PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN BULLAR

are ‘drawn’ not cast, whereas
traditional fittings are often cast items.
Slot-headed brass screws are still
used for good quality work but require
careful pre-drilling before installation,
which is often preceded by using the
equivalent size steel screws to make
the finished holes so the brass screws
don't break or the slots burr when they
are put in.
Brass hinges can be rubbed with fine A brass case inset box lock with a Brass screws are quite so and hardwoods
wire wool or abrasive to take away the ‘brushed’ finish. The works inside are split easily so a proper screwsink which
manufactured appearance and give mild steel with a hardened steel spring to cuts a tapered hole to match the screw
them a pleasing silky sheen. actuate the locking mechanism when the with a countersink for the head and a
cast iron key turns it. depth stop are the perfect answer.
Alloys
Alloys are composed off two or more metals to give greater strength
corrosion.
or resistance to corrosio Typical additive metals in steel are
on. T
resistance
chromium for resistanc ce to corrosion, tungsten for hardness and
temperatures,
resistance to high tempperat vanadium for tensile strength.
Bronze
Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin
and other metals. It sometimes has a
slightly more browny ‘blush’ colour
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/
than brass. It has been used down

ANTHONY BAILEY
the ages for casting statues and other

works of art. As with all alloys there are
many variations. Bismuth bronze, for
example, is sometimes used in light
Lie-Nielsen uses bronze for some of its plane reflectors and mirrors. In woodwork it
cas ngs as it is o en more appreciated by users is increasingly used by high-quality tool
than tradi onal cast iron. It machines nicely so it suits manufacturers for making hand plane
smaller tools, such as this edging plane. bodies and the like.

Technique
Aluminium
PHOTOGRAPH BY MARJORIE RUSSELL

Conventional heating to high
temperature causes it to crumple
rather than melt and when filed
or abraded it ‘wipes’, creating a
roughened surface. On a biscuit

jointer, for example, only one part
of the blade housing and gear head
assembly will be bare aluminium in
order to reduce friction due to both
aluminium surfaces sticking.
Although it is often cast, aluminium
is mostly used in extruded form and
turns up in machine tables and fences
where it has been anodized to give a
smooth, consistent finish. Aluminium To prevent sliding aluminium surfaces Aluminium is light, it machines nicely
is also used for precisely machined jig s cking, manufacturers use various and can look very smart when used
components. These can be as diverse surface treatments or steel against for quality tools and jigs if it is given a
as a pocket hole jig or a specialist aluminium to avoid the problem, although coloured anodized finish.
router fence. lubrica on is important.
Tungsten carbide

Sharpening tools This is a ‘sintered’ alloy of tungsten.
This is the subject woodworkers get It is the industrial process of
most concerned about. We regularly compressing a metallic compound
have articles on the subject as it at high temperature until it fuses
deserves to be looked at in its own together. This is not the same as
right. It does involve steel and as soon melting alloying metals and as a
as you start grinding the metal it heats result it has a crystalline structure
up. Heating changes the molecular that is brittle compared to steel,
structure of the steel and it is all too for example. Nowadays tungsten
easy to cause the steel to ‘lose its carbide – otherwise known as TCT – is
temper’ when it goes a dull grey blue ‘micrograin’, meaning the structure is
colour. Then heat treatment may be finer, giving sharper cutting edges and
necessary to recondition the steel improving its resistance to breakage.
until it regains it’s previous hardness It is supplied to tool manufacturers
characteristic. This is a situation best as small blanks, which are brazed on This ny router cu er has a single blade
avoided unless you know how to do it. to steel cutter bodies. Circular saw TCT sec on brazed into a steel shank.
blades and router cutters are the most The p is hard but can break easily if too
common uses in woodworking. deep a pass is machined at one go.

Steel blades can overheat very

quickly so care is needed to avoid
that. Quenching in a water bath is
acceptable in order to let the metal
cool during grinding
Metals and their alloys are fascinating,

and not just because of their physical
properties. If you want to learn more,
why not search online for a new or used
copy of Metals In The Service Of Man Where would we be without beau fully made, hand-cra ed tools like these fine-tooth
published by Pelican Science. ■ dovetail saws with heavy brass backs to s ffen the blades?

Community
A woodworking glossary
The letter F
F
FACE When a board has one side that FIGURE Naturally occurring in features attachment to another component or
is wider than the other, the wider in wood caused by either growth strengthening the meeting area, often
surface is referred to as the face, as increments or tissue orientation, which used in metal castings.
opposed to the narrower edge. It are perceived to be decorative patterns.
may also refer to the face that is to be FLAT GOUGE A gouge with minimal
visible in the finished item. FILE A hardened steel tool in many curvature used for finishing and
cross sections and degrees of cut from smoothing.
FACE FRAME Wood jointed together coarse through to fine, having ridges to
to form one or more rectangular abrade material from the workpiece. FLITCH A one-quarter of a log, also
openings that cover the front edges thin, flat-sawn or sliced sheet veneer
of a carcass. FILE CARD A stiff steel wire brush used gathered in the order it was sliced from
to clean files. a log.
FACEPLATE An attachment for a
woodturning lathe which supports the FILLET Either a small square that is FLUTE A a semicircular channel cut
piece of wood being turned. part of a moulding or a small in wood occasionally made with a
rectangular strip. router and corebox bit or a traditional
FASCIA, FASCIA BOARD A horizontal moulding plane.
piece covering the joint between the FINGER JOINT Interlocking finger
top of a wall and the overhanging joints are used for making wooden
eaves. boxes or on a larger scale for
reinforcing and aligning panel joints.
FEATHERBOARD A safety device This is particularly useful when joining
comprising flexible fingers that hold boards end grain to end grain, as in
a workpiece against the fence or table making continuous floorboards.
during a cut. It can be a bought item or
made by cutting a number of slots in FIRMER CHISEL A square-sided chisel
the end of a short board. for general work or mortising. If it has
bevels on both sides it is referred to as
a firmer bevel chisel.
Fluধng
FORSTNER BIT A type of drill bit used
to bore clean, flat-bottomed holes
larger than conventional twist drills.
FRAME AND PANEL A type of

construction that employs an outside
frame containing a panel in the middle.
It is often chosen for aesthetic reasons
Featherboards
but traditionally used to hold solid
FENCE A flat and straight length of Bevel edge (top). Firmer chisel (boħom) wood panels flat for doors etc.
some material, usually wood, steel or
aluminium, which provides a reference FISHTAIL CHISEL OR GOUGE A chisel FRENCH CLEAT A two-part device
for tools to work against, or which or gouge with a splayed end used for made by bevelling the meeting edge of
prevents the work from moving too far carving wood. each, it is used to hang wall cabinets.
on to the cutter.
FIXED-BASE ROUTER A router whose FRETSAW Either a handsaw with a
FERRULE A metal ring found where motor body cannot be moved up or thin open frame fitted with a very fine-
the metal part of a tool intersects its down during operation, but can be toothed blade used for delicate cuts in
handle. The ferrule prevents the end of adjusted prior to operation, unlike a thin material or an old-fashioned foot
the handle from splitting during use. plunge router. or electric-powered machine which
does the same work. Newer models are
FIBRE The fine, tube-like structures of FIXTURE A device for supporting work termed ‘scrollsaws’.
wood, which are hollow and determine during machining or assembly.
the grain direction. The living tree FRETWORK Intricate detail cuts,
uses them to transport essential fluids FLANGE A rib or rim added for usually done with a scrollsaw or
during its lifetime. strength also possibly guiding fretsaw. ■
WWC33_32_GLOSSARY F SUBBED.indd 32 28/09/2017 12:40

Project
Wardrobe office
Neil Lawton shows us
what he really keeps
behind closed doors…
I
was brought up in a world of ‘make
do and mend’. This project may
have been easier if an older-style,
solid wood, flat-fronted wardrobe was
available, but we had been gifted this
MDF one so it was definitely a case of
make do.
The office is to be the only
permanent resident of a new garden
building we have that is to be used in
myriad ways.
Essentially the space can be set
up as either a gallery of works or a
workshop for educational purposes.
The last thing we need is computers
and paperwork hidden beneath a
pile of shavings from the last turning
course, hence the need for a closable
space. The client here was my partner,
who had already decided to cover the
finished article with a ‘photowall’-type
wallpaper of her own choosing. ➤
PHOTOGRAPHS BY NEIL LAWTON
WWC33_33_36_WARDROBE OFFICE SUBBED.indd 33 04/10/2017 14:57

Project
1 The generic MDF wardrobe. Any

standard ‘boxy’ wardrobe will do,
however if the doors are solid wood
with frame and panel construction
then you may need to adjust your
conversion technique to take the
framing into account.
2 The upper internal shelf is one of

the few things holding this together,
so it shall remain as a rather deep
bookshelf. It is important to retain
structural integrity and, besides, some
storage space is essential.
2
3 With the furniture removed,

the doors are cut in two. If you
aren’t fortunate enough to possess a
tablesaw, a handsaw, portable circular
saw or router will do the same job, but
the edges may need cleaning up.
4 An extra hinge now needs adding to

the upper doors. Each door needs
two hinges in the right place. If an
existing hinge is too far from the end of
the door you will need to add another
hinge. The original fitting is a 26mm
diameter hole, with plugs to stop the
screws pulling from the MDF.
1 3
5 The new hinge holes were drilled
with a 1in (25.4mm) Forstner bit. It
helps if you are lucky enough to have a
hinge sinker as it cuts out step 6.
6 The holes were then enlarged using

a rotary sander, taking care to keep
the shape round for a good hinge fit.
7 The hinge now seated, and the

mounting holes could be marked
and drilled. Incidentally the hinges
need to match the existing ones as
closely as possible because there are 4 5
different types available.
8 The top of a standard rawl plug cut

down. This type has non-return
ridges that will hold it firmly in door
material.
6 7 8

Project
9 They become the screw anchors

for the new hinges, giving a more
reliable fixing than screwing directly
into MDF or chipboard.
10 The hinge bracket locations

are marked and the pilot holes
drilled. The tape marks the required
depth to be drilled, without exiting
the carcass.
11 Although ostensibly the same,

the newer hinge brackets were
not the same as the originals. Some
nuts were temporarily used as spacers
to find the correct position, until 9 10
wooden spacers could be made.
12 The doors were sanded to

remove high spots and provide
a better key surface for the glue which
would hold the door coverings.
13 Contact adhesive was then

applied to the whole surface,
which would allow the detail to be
hidden beneath some thin plywood
giving flat surfaces to be decorated.
14 Once the glue was dry, the ply

could be trimmed to size with a
flush trim router cutter, using the door 11 12
edges as the guide for running the
bearing against.
15 The desk surface was to be

mounted on two long drawer
runners, allowing it to be pulled
out and provide the workspace and
adequate leg room beneath. The
runners were screwed to projecting
battens to ensure clearance of the
doors.
16 Cutting the solid wood

desktop to fit the width of the
thicknesser. It isn’t always necessary for
a clean-up operation, but this one was 13 14
heavily graffitied. ➤
15 16

Project
17 There was evidence of filling

on the original piece, which
needed colouring in before a finish
was applied.
18 A biscuit jointer seemed the

ideal way to reassemble the desk
top. A dry run was made to ensure
everything lined up before the glue was
applied. 17 18
19 With the glue line sanded and

the top cut to size, a Danish
oil finish was applied. A quick coat
of paint and a vintage drawer handle
becomes the pull-out point for the
desk.
20 The finished desk top and a

second narrower book shelf
were fitted in the upper section. 19 20
21 New handles fitted and small

battens fixed to bottom and
top of the doors. This made up for
Once the paper was dry the handles
were refitted, completing the
the material taken away by the initial outside. The handles complete the
saw cut. transformation, making it a stylish and
a dust-free work space.
Finishing touches
After a light sand and wash-down of The office is now in use. An anti-surge
the carcass, the ‘photowall’ paper was extension lead runs in through the
applied using the supplied adhesive. back to provide the power for the
Suddenly it looks very different to its computer equipment. A neat and
old wardrobe self. compact office solution. ■ 21
NEW DOOR DIMENSIONS FRONT VIEW SIDE VIEW (SECTION)

800 15 770 15 520
Original carcass is
15mm thick. 285 Original shelf
15
720
285
22 300
30
22
Original pair of doors
cut into two pieces Desk pulls out
each, and hinges on 450mm long
added to top pair. drawer slides
714 495
22 40
1080
Doors are covered 18
using 3mm plywood

to provide a flat
surface for decorating 595
110 Doors in
open position

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037_WWC_033.indd 37 10/3/17 11:02 AM

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17-086 NEW WWC subs ad.indd 38 10/6/17 10:12 AM

Project
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS

Build a
Rustic clock
Michael T Collins
Clock on
These scraps come in handy when
gaining inspiration for new projects,
says it’s about time EQUIPMENT USED or turning something old and rustic
for a more natural- into an elegant and interesting item

with history and character. For this
Tools
looking clock • Router and 8mm collet or chisel project, I have delved into my bins of
offcuts and treasures to source some
• 6mm up spiral router bit
• 6mm drill bit great quality materials to create an
T
his season in the woodshop
I’ve been focusing on the • Pair of compasses and dividers elegant and shabby-chic clock. Clocks
rustic look. As woodworkers like this one are simple and quick to
we acquire many things, including Suppliers make – the perfect gift. When making
tools and books, but the most space • Mechanisms and hands are rustic clocks, as opposed to elegant
consuming items by far, at least in my available from Klockit.com. These clocks (see issue 12 p46), there are no
woodshop, are several bins overflowing are approximately £5 hard and fast rules – as they say, you
with offcuts and scraps. As the Editor for a basic mechanism without the are limited only by your imagination.
mentioned in my last article, keep all set of hands. So let’s get started, we have no time
those scraps – you never know when to lose – pun very much intended. ➤
you might need a piece.
WWC33_39_41_Rustic_Clock SUBBED.indd 39 04/10/2017 15:01

Project
Making time
1 First step is to select your scrap
wood. Choose a pleasing shape
that will look good with the clock
hands in place. Don’t burn, let
it turn….
2 Make the mechanism template.

I used a sheet of 6mm melamine
to create the template. Draw around
the mechanism and then add the
thickness of the collet and the distance
between the collet and the router
bit. This will ensure that the
mechanism fits snugly. Then remove
the waste with a jigsaw. Countersink
1
the securing holes so that the router
can move freely across the surface.
Note: If chiselling out the cavity, treat

it just like a large, shallow mortise.
3 Secure the template to the piece

of wood using flat-head screws. You
need to ensure the screws are shorter
than the thickness of the workpiece as
it is important not to screw all the way
through, thus marring the clock face.
4 Rout out the mechanism’s cavity

using a 6mm straight router bit.
It’s easier and safer to rout this out 2 3
in several passes. I like to use some
of that non-slip shelf-lining material,
it really holds the pieces in place
while routing.
5 The clock kits I am using have

a depth of 16mm and a ferrule
of 10mm, so in 19mm thick wood
the resulting ‘excavation’ will leave
a 3mm ‘wall’ of wood and the ferrule
will protrude 6-8mm – you will need
to experiment with the mechanisms
that you use. Test the fit and adjust
as necessary.
4 5
6 Mark the centre of the mechanism

cavity and drill the spindle hole.
Have a sacrificial board underneath to
prevent breakout on the front face.
Clock face
7 Let your imagination run free in
designing the face of the clocks.
You can use all manner of items… I
have used nails, tacks, inlays – you
can even leave them blank. Draw the
clock’s circumference and then, to
mark the 12 hour locations, set a pair
of dividers to half the radius and step
it around the circumference, making
sure that you start centred at the top
of the clock face.
6 7

Project
8 In this example I am using some

walnut to give the clock some
contrasting hour marks. Drill 3mm
holes to hold the walnut pins. The
end grain appears darker than the
long grain of the wood.
9 Glue and carefully hammer the

walnut pins into place. A flexible
flush cut saw will trim the pins off
neatly without damaging the face.
10 Clean up the pins with a very

sharp chisel, lying flush on the
surface to avoid any dig-in. You can
see without any finish applied how
8 9
the pins show up clearly.
11 In this version I have opted to

use contrasting tacks for the
hours, they go nicely with the barn
board surface. You can try other
things instead – if it works, it works.
12 The base has a 2° bevel cut

so that the face leans back
slightly. In thinner wood make
a support needed to stabilise the clock.
To achieve this, simply glue a block
of wood with the same slope angle
to the rear of the clock.
10 11
Finishing time
13 Before applying the finish ease
all the edges to make them look
and feel finished. Then use abrasive
paper on all the prepared surfaces,
avoiding any waney edges.
14 Use a couple of coats of Danish

oil or similar finish applied with
a brush or rag. Rough or waney areas
need coating to darken them and
solidify the natural surfaces.
Hands on 12 13
15 Typically, I choose not to apply
any finish to wood that has really
deep grain structure, such as barn
boards. The history and character the
grain offers is interesting and should be
kept intact where suitable. And there
you have it – beautiful hand-crafted
clocks finished in no time at all. ■
Offcuts
You can create something chic or cool
out of the most mundane of materials,
so look around you, keep an eye on
builders’ skips or an industrial yard. But
please, do ask before helping yourself.
14 15

Technique
PERFECT PANELS
Colin Sullivan demonstrates a few techniques to achieve back
panels that are as good on the inside as they are on the outside
T
here are many examples throughout history where Dowels and beads, unseen or not, were executed with
the back of a piece of furniture is visible and the precision to get as close to perfection as possible and
panels are given some decorative treatment in therefore closer to God.
acknowledgement of their exposure. I’ve often heard it said that Thomas Chippendale invented
For those of us who like to study furniture there’s no plywood. I wouldn’t like to vouch for this fact but, in relative
face that will not come under scrutiny or be of interest. terms, the use of sheet material in furniture construction
We are as much in awe of the hidden treasures behind is something quite new. The expanse of a back panel has
the construction as we are of the more obvious statements traditionally been made from solid material considered at the
of design. time to be of an inferior grade. Odd now that wide boards of
pristine deal and mahogany are hard to come by.
History The open-fronted dresser is perhaps the most obvious
Examples of furniture attributed to the Shaker movement example of old furniture to feature a visible backboard. Later
can be found finished as well inside as they were outside. examples would have a row of interlocking matchwood every
Although not decorative by today’s standards, the detailing bit as structural as the rest of the carcass. To the untrained
came about as a result of their making processes. eye it’s a detail that goes largely unnoticed.
WWC33_42_43_PERFECT PANELS SUBBED.indd 42 04/10/2017 15:04

Technique
METHOD
The method of fixing these panels construction shown in this book and and don’t have to buy considerably
varies from century to century and has others have been a great source of more than you need.
some regional differences, but by far inspiration for these articles on hand
the most attractive approach was to work using simple tools, in particular Handmade mouldings are always
create a framed panel. The expanse was the Record 45 combination plane. worth considering. They are the
divided by stiles and rails as necessary The book lists the advantages of maker’s signature and every bit as
and housed into a rebate, the frame making these mouldings oneself to be: individual as the piece itself. Details can
being secured with screws so that the be produced by machines but nothing
loose panels were free to expand and A. They are well made. replaces the satisfaction gained from
contract at will. B. They are made from the same the experience.
C&J Hampton, which made the material as the work itself. Like many of the tools mentioned
original Record planes and tools, C. They are made to the individual in this series this very useful book
including the versatile no.045, size required and don’t have to is available, secondhand on the
published a very interesting book in be adapted to meet standard internet, for a few pounds and I would
1934 entitled Planecraft, with the machine sizes. recommend it to anyone wanting
subtitle Hand Planing by Modern D. The cost of the material is negligible, to make the full use of hand and
Methods. The fundamentals of you make just as much as required moulding planes. ■
Matchboard back Framed panel back

Interlocking matchboard features a tongue and groove and, in Examples of framed panel backs can be found with the frame
theory, can be made up of random width boards. For a seamless planted directly on to the edge of the carcass sides. A much
finish on an exposed face, prepare the ends of the boards with a neater way is to create a rebate around the inside of the carcass.
tongue and drop them into a corresponding groove. The use of If tops, bottoms, shelves or other dividers are housed into a dado
contrasting boards can be used to create a dramatic appearance of the same depth as the rebate it can be run through to the end
without the need to produce a frame. of the board.
Even a plain
panel and
Matchboard frame can add
tongued into interest to an
grooves in otherwise flat
the carcass expanse of
walls sheet material
Contras ng
mbers can be
used to great
effect. The
rails are glued Match
into posi on rebates to
COLIN SULLIVAN
providing the your dados

necessary to simplify
rigidity construc on
WWC33_42_43_PERFECT PANELS SUBBED.indd 43 28/09/2017 12:43

Community
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE PLUNKETT FOUNDATION

Making local woods work
You too can save your local woodland for the community and
put it to good use – thanks to The Plunkett Foundation
I
found out about The Plunkett funded and supported by the Big focused its efforts on supporting local
Foundation quite by chance, Lottery fund. communities, helping them to take
researching woodland ownership. The Plunkett Foundation was set up charge of efforts to reinvigorate their
I discovered a community enterprise in 1919 by the great Irish cooperative communities by saving valuable assets
woodland nearby at Vert Woods in pioneer Sir Horace Plunkett and was that might otherwise be lost for good,
East Sussex. Its website went into endowed by him with a relatively causing them to fracture and dissipate
great detail about how and why it had modest sum of £5000. Its aim was and lose out on the advantages of local
been created for the local community to foster cooperative enterprise traded goods and services.
and the supporters of the project, internationally. The organisation
including Making Local Woods Work has been through some difficult Who does it help?
(www.makinglocalwoodswork.org), and interesting times, including the Community co-ops – these can
appartnershipp of 11 organisations,
g , impact of World War II, but at nearly be shops, pubs, bakeries, farms,
DATION
100 years old it is thriving and has community hubs, farmers’ markets,
woodlands, broadband projects – the
FOUN
list, as the websites says, is endless.

UNKETT
The essential thing is they are all

businesses and everyone who becomes
OF THE PL
a volunteer is entitled to a vote making

each project completely democratic at
SY
a local level. Every enterprise must be

S COURTE
profitable and benefit the community,

but any profits are to be reinvested in
OGRAPH
the co-op. Many of these community

enterprises offer additional services
PHOT
which can be really important where

From beer to bites many other shops and businesses
WWC33_44_47_FEATURE PLUNKETT FOUNDATION SUBBED.indd 44 28/09/2017 12:47

Community
have already closed. Often this is the reason for establishing
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE PLUNKETT FOUNDATION

a community co-op but it can also be to offer goods and
services that meet local needs and also to help banish poverty,
loneliness and social isolation. Plunkett does not exist in
the role of a grant funding provider, it specialises in acting
as the lead enabler for projects at local level, providing lots
of support and encouragement to communities. It is an
invaluable resource for knowledge and information and
helping with legal and financial matters as well as working
with other relevant organisations and public bodies. It is
the complex minefield of legislative, planning, financial and
regulations that can easily stifle an otherwise brilliant and
inspiring community project at birth. Plunkett specialises in
helping communities to overcome these awkward hurdles.
The website gives more information and contact details for
anyone interested in setting up a project. Celebraধon at Foundry Wood
Vert Woods Case St

Vert Woods, Laughton, East Sussex udy
is part of an area of woodland that
was once owned by the titled Pelham
family as a deer park. Since the sale
of the land in the 1960s to help
offset death duties, the woodlands,
comprising both ancient and more
recent plantations, have been broken
up into smaller parcels of land. In

early 2015 the land now known as
Vert Woods Community Woodland
and making up 30% of the total
250ha of woodland came up for sale.
A small group of woodland owners
and woodland lovers persuaded a
local philanthropist, Roger Ross, Key tasks
to work with them and put up the ● Understanding what was present
money to buy the woodland for the in the woodland – tree types,
benefit of the community. He has streams, ecology, access, etc.
secured a number of other land- ● Preparing a woodland
based public benefit projects so he management plan

was very sympathetic towards what ● Deciding on the best option for a
the group was trying to achieve. legal basis to run the woodland
A steering group of 12, including ● Agreeing and dealing with critical
local people, foresters, small health and safety issues

wood owners, nature teachers and ● Developing a business plan
wildlife experts started monthly ● Fundraising
meetings to thrash out what they

were trying to achieve and how to
carry it out. ➤
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VERT WOODS
Leđ: A fun, family day at Vert Woods

Community

Tom Oħaway using his mobile sawmill PHOTOGRAPH BY TOM OTTAWAY
Site visit Leđ to right: Tom Oħaway, Stewart Boyle and Chrisধne Meadows
On the day I visited, I met Tom
Ottaway, a small wood owner next Making progress Stewart said: ‘I’m keen on biomass
door to Vert who happens to have By spring 2017 some real progress has but we really don’t want to decimate
a very portable sawmill; Christine been made – the establishment as a the woodland just because biomass
Meadows, who is a trained forester CBS, the Forestry Commission approval operators want a minimum of 200
and has been instrumental in getting of the woodland management plan, tons at a time. Instead we want to
the woodland management agreed to the first lot of funding supplied by sell smaller quantities for local use in
as well as getting the social enterprise the Woodland Trust, and a planning woodburners and open fires.’ While
on a business footing (it is registered application for ‘essential permitted Stewart and Christine were discussing
with the Financial Conduct Authority development’ – for a forest road, the business plan, Tom and I wandered
as a Community Benefit Society); and compost toilets, storage and bad off into Vert Wood from his land. He
Stewart Boyle, another small wood weather structures, has been submitted. explained that the track that runs right
owner in the area. There has been sustained tree thinning across the land was muddy and rutted,
Christine and Stewart answered my with help from Plumpton College and a which suited 4x4 fanatics perfectly but
rather probing questions about the first tenant using the peace and calm of left it churned up until East Sussex
role of Plunkett and how important the woods for a special needs group. County Council laid aggregate and
the Making Local Woods Work project After Tom showed us the woodland hardcore to level it. ‘There may be a
had been to them. They gave me a products being made for sale to place for 4x4s somewhere in nature
rundown on how the project started the public, he demonstrated how but it isn’t here’ said Tom. ‘The wet
and the involvement of the local transportable his sawmill really was, woodland would last five minutes
community, who were very much bearing in mind that it may have to under this kind of use and be ruined
behind the project. There are a number be taken deep into the woods. He for a long time. We are looking at all
of organisations who can help with explained the ground was mainly clay sorts of ways of using the woodland so
forest and woodland matters – in this and not good for tractors or horses for it isn’t just a place to walk and enjoy the
case the Forestry Commission and the withdrawing felled timber at the end wildlife but to make money using what
Woodland Trust – who pointed the of the year when sap is at its lowest. the woodland naturally has to offer.’
group in the direction of the Plunkett The planned forest track will allow Vert Woods really is a big project but
Foundation who could help steer access for limited, controlled timber it promises to be really exciting as it
matters at the local level. extraction. develops. Visit: www.vertwoods.co.uk
Wild flowers,
fungi and a ধny
transplanted yew,
all flourishing in
Vert woods
Log store and rainwater capture in an acধvity area

Community
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WIKIPEDIA COMMONS

y
Case Stud
London Green Wood

This is an altogether different project to Vert
Woods. It is a community group of green
woodworkers whose demonstrators and tutors are
members of the APTGW (Association of Pole Lathe
Turners and Green Woodworkers) based in one of
London’s very mature and somewhat overgrown
urban cemeteries at Abney Park, Hackney – the
last resting place of William Booth, founder of the
Salvation Army. The aims are to introduce people to
a rewarding and therapeutic space which connects
to a long tradition of heritage crafts. Working
outdoors and in the open, people of all ages get the
chance to work with traditional hand tools using
timber felled in the cemetery and elsewhere locally. Clockwise from top leđ:
They receive support from the Worshipful Company Abney Park cemetery,
of Turners, The Headley Trust, which funds courses Hackney; some very
and events and, of course, Hackney Council and happy ‘spooners’; a
scooped out dish; one of
the Abney Park Trust. The Plunkett Foundation also
the younger parধcipants
gives its support to this excellent urban project.
who joined ‘the club’;
the proud maker of a
Visit: londongreenwood.wordpress.com/ three-legged stool
Courses: obby.co.uk/schools/london-green-
wood
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF LONDON GREEN WOOD
Plunkett currently supports 50

woodland-based projects all over
the UK, plus a huge number of other
community cooperatives upholding
the values and aspirations of founder
Sir Horace Plunkett and also Margaret
Digby CBE, who was the driving force
of the foundation for 50 years.
If you want to learn more and
possibly help kickstart your own
community enterprise visit: www.
plunkett.co.uk ■

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ANYWHERE
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Community
A typical stand of
Woodland ways Scots pine
Our three

native conifers
Our very own broadleaf specialist, Gary Marshall, finds
himself pining for native conifers – just for a change
First – All the others:

There are parts of the British occasional plantings of Scots pine
Isles where conifers outnumber (Pinus sylvestris). Only the last
broadleaves, but these are usually named tree in this list is a native –
swathes of plantations on land too and now, as a native, it is limited to
difficult to farm. The trees in such remnants of the Great Caledonian
plantations are not normally native, forest in the Highlands.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GARY MARSHALL UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED
although seedlings may have been

raised here from existing planted So what are our three
stock. Usually such coniferous native conifers?
‘forests’ are of Sitka spruce (Picea They are:
sitchensis), Norway spruce Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris)
(P. abies), hybrid, or Japanese larch Yew (Taxus baccata)
(Larix spp.) and often with Corsican Juniper (Juniperis communis)
or lodgepole pines (Pinus nigra,
P. contorta), Western hemlocks Here’s some information and
(Tsuga heterophylla), Douglas firs photos so you can search for them in
(Psuedotsuga taxifolia) western red your area and in your travels around
Tall, straight Corsican pine (not naধve) cedar (Thuja occidentalis) and the country.
WWC33_50-51_WOODLAND WAYS SUBBED.indd 50 04/10/2017 15:07

Community
Scots pine
This is a distinctive tree that naturalises In thinned plantations maturing Scots
easily on heathland and other pine makes a light and airy woodland,
unintensively cultivated areas. When often with bracken and fern under.
seen in small groups or on its own it The scent of the resin on a warm day
can have a somewhat flattened top is evocative, as are the soft layers of
with a long, straight trunk complexly slowly decomposing needles. Lie
crowned with a cloud of top growth down, look up, breathe in and enjoy.
and maybe a few lower side branches. The needles are blue green (slightly
As in my article on tree bark in issue glaucous), shortish (generally between
32, the Scots pine has a fine, silvery, 50mm and 75mm) and grow in pairs.
large-scaled, patterned, reptilian bark Buds are pointed and scaled and the
that turns a lovely shade of rusty small cones are a little lopsided. While
orange higher up. Scots pines grow well on poor acidic
soils, they will also colonise alkaline
soils such as chalk – as I found out Coloured upper bark of the Scots pine
looking for our other natives recently.
Yew
First of all read the article on the yew
from Woodworking Crafts issue 24
from March this year. There’s not a lot
extra I need say here. I will add that
some of the best yew woods I know
grow on chalk – notably Kingley Vale
near Chichester in West Sussex (www.
gov.uk/government/publications/
west-sussexs-national-nature-
reserves/west-sussex), a magical
and ancient-feeling place. Since the
yews are spreading many are not as
old as might appear. Another magical
place is along the North Downs on
the Pilgrim’s Way, where truly ancient
yews can make tunnels over the
path. I can’t leave this wonderful tree
species without a mention of two
Crowhurst yews: one in Crowhurst
Sussex, the other in Crowhurst Surrey.
Yew (foreground) and inset – the Crowhurst yew
Spot your local famous yew – the best
place to start will be your oldest local
Juniper churchyard. Incidentally, the Irish yew
Is it a tree? Well in a shrubby, variable is a fastigiate variety (branches parallel
sort of way. Like the yew it doesn’t to the main stem) that originates from
even have cones. It does, however, just one tree in Florence Court, Co.
have pungent berries much appreciated Fermanagh.
by gin makers and drinkers. It can be
hard to find in the wild. I had a job Leđ: Juniper berries and foliage
tracking it down. I couldn’t find any at Below: Juniper bush
Juniper Hill, near Reigate, for instance,
although I did find many fine yews and
Scots pines there. There are almost
none in East Sussex where I live – but
in West Sussex there is a well-observed,
protected and increasing colony near
Steyning. Juniper has curious tastes
in soil and can be found on almost
bare chalk – highly alkaline – or on
acidic moorland or mountainous crags.
Interestingly one of the best and most
extensive ‘juniper woods’ in the country
is on the MOD’s Porton Down site in
Wiltshire. Obviously a tree that does
best when it’s left well alone – and we
all feel like that occasionally...■
WWC33_50-51_WOODLAND WAYS SUBBED.indd 51 28/09/2017 12:49

Project
PLANS 4YOU
Settle
Simon Rodway says ‘sit down
next to me’
T
he settle is one of those pieces of furniture that
fairly reeks of tradition and antiquity and in fact the
design, with a high back and wrap-around sides,
is partly attributed to the need for protection from cold
and draughts in medieval buildings, where it was often
placed near to a fire for additional warmth. Examples that
graced baronial halls were often elaborately carved, but this
modern-day adaptation of the settle keeps the surface work
to a minimum, although there is still a bit of work for the
router to perform.
Structurally, this settle is a long way from its ancestors.
The real rigidity and lateral strength are provided by sheets
of modern plywood at the back and along the bottom, Cutting list
aided by dowel jointing into the sides for some of the Sides 2 @ 1042 X 450 X 30
main horizontal components. Some biscuit jointing is also Front panel 3 @ Ex 1015 X 143 X 22
required, as the seat and the sides are large areas of solid Seat 1 @ 891 X 360 X 22
timber, which will need to be assembled by gluing individual Seat hinge piece 1 @ 895 X 72 X 22
boards together. You will also need a simple template to cut Seat side pieces 2 @ 435 X 60 X 22
out the sides. I have given some key dimensions on the one Seat support 1 @ 1015 X 75 X 22
I drew, but you might want to make your own, as the outline Bottom back rail 1 @ 1015 X 70 X 25
varies a lot in traditional examples. Top (crest) rail 1 @ 1015 X 85 X 25
Back boards 12 @ Ex 433 X 95 X 22
Assembly Seat bracing battens 2 @ 285 X 60 X 22
The assembly of the settle has to be done in stages, with all Back 1 @ 1015 X 392 X 12
the dowelled components going first, for obvious reasons. Bottom 1 @ 1015 X 386 X 12
The fixed-seat side pieces and back hinge piece are dowelled Back bottom batten 1 @ 1015 X 44 X 22
and glued together as a unit, with the bottom back rail Side bottom battens 2 @ 320 X 22 X 22
sitting on top, and the seat support below, so as long as the Front bottom battens 1 @ 1015 X 22 X 22
side pieces are located correctly, you only have the crest rail Side vertical battens 4 @ 336 X 22 X 22
to worry about, in terms of accuracy. The seat support is an Seat side battens 2 @ 311 X 22 X 22
additional piece which is also screwed into the hinge piece (Note: seat and sides are shown as overall sizes only)
from below, and overlaps the join with the seat to take some
of the stress off the hinges, which would otherwise support
the back of the seat when people are sitting on the settle. edge to the batten that runs underneath the bottom plywood
Once the main frame components are assembled, you panel. With all of this in place, you can add the hinged seat. I
can add the battens and plywood inside the settle seat area, have allowed a 2mm gap at each end, and a 3mm gap at the
starting with the back and the larger batten running along back, which will vary a little according to the hinges you use.
its bottom edge, and which is pocket-screwed at each end The seat itself is rounded over at the front and strengthened
into the sides. The back is screwed along its top edge to underneath by wide battens with slotted screw holes.
the seat support. Next you need to screw the side bottom Finally, the back vertical boards can be located between
battens to the sides, then add the plywood bottom plus the the top and bottom back rails. These have the same rebate
front batten that runs along its front edge, and secure with and bead joint as the front panel boards, but are much
screws to the back and side bottom battens. Then add the narrower, plus an additional rebate is cut along the bottom
vertical battens at the ends, which pick up the back and front and top edges at the back, to fit against tongues formed
panels, and the top batten which adds strength to the seat along the rails. The boards themselves can be secured by
end pieces. small screws top and bottom from the back of the top and
Now you can cut the boards that make up the front panel bottom rails. The top rail has a simple roundover on the top
to length. These have a rebate and beading detail applied edge, and the sides should have a similar treatment on the
along the long edges, and are screwed at each end from front edges, or alternatively a modest chamfer can be applied
inside to the front vertical battens, and along the bottom to enhance the overall look of the finished piece. ■
WWC33_52-53_PLANS FOR YOU_SETTLE SUBBED.indd 52 28/09/2017 12:50

Community
Aim high IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
You don’t have to be

second best – you’re
better than that
T
he great thing about working
with wood is that you can
pitch it at any level you want.
Anything from whittling a stick to
making a beautifully finished piece of
well-designed furniture and everything
in between, from DIY to woodturning,
carving or restoration – the field is
wide open. You can do it by hand or
by power tool, you can design and
let someone else do the graft. You
can simply live a ‘back to the woods’
lifestyle and chop down trees, or
maybe weave willow into fantastic
sculptures – there really is no limit.
You want to improve? Or simply
get stuck in and have a go? Let’s go
through some of the options… Wouldn’t we all love a spacious home workshop if we had the chance?
WWC33_54_57_TECH_AIM HIGH SUBBED.indd 54 04/10/2017 15:09

Community
IMAGE COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
These days the ‘making bug’ is more likely to be caught from an older family member
than at school

Learning to make willow sculptures with willow ar st and basketmaker Anne Marie
O’Sullivan

‘Conventional’ woodworking are still plenty of people who want
Typically this needs a proper workshop to ‘have a go’, but need somewhere
which most of us don’t have the benefit suitable to try their hand at a craft.
of owning. The older generation, like
me, brought up in an education system Green woodworking
that still espoused the benefits of craft A big growth area is green
teaching, tend to not only have had woodworking. It satisfies the soul
some good, practical teaching but are because it takes you away from
also wedded to the idea of a full-blown everyday life with its nine to five
workshop with some lightweight routine and stress. You can leave the
machines and space to work. mobile switched off and just get stuck
In the modern world where new into some spoon carving, weaving a
houses are more compact and garden willow arch for the garden or turning a
plots are small, this is often not an bowl in green wood.
option. If you join a green woodworking
Worse still, younger generations group in your area, usually a part of
haven’t been imbued with a deep- the Association of Pole Lathe Turners
seated interest in wood and metalwork and Green Woodworkers, you get
because it isn’t being taught. to meet other equally keen ‘green’
In fact, young people generally enthusiasts. Many are beginners, but
acquire their interest in craft subjects some are professionals who want to
from grandparents and others who learn a different skill. APTGW member Mike Gordon
have the skill, knowledge and a It’s both a levelling and cathartic demonstra ng pole lathe turning at
workshop. Today, however, there experience, come rain come shine. ➤ Bentley Woodfair

Community

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHELLE ROBERTSON
An adult educa on evening class teaching woodcarving Upholstery classes held at the Brinsbury campus of Chichester
College, West Sussex
Adult education used to be, as they are more expensive and woodworking shows. It is a more
Adult education classes are available to put on and need a full class to run. informal way of teaching although it
in many areas and usually under the may be done in a structured way.
umbrella of a local authority or college. Private teaching
These give you the chance to work It can be challenging finding small Learning level
under supervision and learn essential craft schools or individual teachers but If you want to just enjoy learning
skills. They are usually in the evening, they do exist and in many parts of the and improving at a craft skill, so long
which has the advantage of being after country. The people teaching may also as you choose a suitable beginners’
work time and achieving a practical have done adult education teaching course that isn’t too demanding, that
result – making something is very but have set up on their own. In fact, is absolutely fine. In fact, any teacher
rewarding. anyone teaching craft skills is unlikely of any course should interview you
For students, after a day’s work an to do just that activity alone, but have to find out what you want to achieve
evening session can either be tiring other strings to their bow. In the case and if there are any potential barriers
or invigorating depending on your of a woodworker or craftworker they to your learning, a disability or
point of view. Courses can encompass may be making for private clients language issues for example. They will
anything from scrollsawing to DIY to and/or have a standard product line then ensure the learning situation is
upholstery classes. There are fewer of they can sell through their website, tailored as much as practicable to suit
these practical craft classes than there galleries, an online shop, or craft fairs you and during the course they should
assess how you are doing, with your
input so the teaching can be adjusted

accordingly. That is how modern
teaching is done.
Further education (FE) and

higher education (HE)
If you feel you have developed
sufficiently to want more of a
challenge and possibly seek a change
of career or circumstance, there are
PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRIS GRACE
A workshop set up for wheelchair

disabled use. Apart from a slightly
lower lathe, it looks just like any other
One-to-one tui on in a small workshop can be as effec ve as a larger ins tu on workshop

Community

Working as part of a team is one of the benefits of learning in a larger A furniture student at the Leamington
teaching ins tu on Spa campus of the Warwick group of
colleges showing the construc on of a
still a number of colleges, universities taking over from the large state veneered box
and private schools which provide institutions and are usually run and
courses dedicated to furniture design taught by tutors who have trained It often suits mature students who
and making and furniture restoration within the state system so you are can manage the funding and are
and conservation. Universities and pretty much guaranteed a high looking for a new opportunity for
some colleges which are campuses of standard of teaching. The difference development.
a university can offer Bachelor of Arts here is that you pay fees upfront, no
(BA) or Master of Arts (MA) courses. student loans involved, and they can In conclusion
Colleges also deliver lower level FE only give a diploma or certificate, Despite a general reduction in the
courses such as City & Guilds or NVQs, which doesn’t have the standing of a amount of craft teaching in the UK,
overseen by the relevant awarding formal award. However, the teaching and indeed in other countries, as costs
bodies. Most students are school may be just as good but compacted have risen and technology has changed
leavers but there are also some mature into a much shorter time scale as it our lives, there are still plenty of ways
students in the system. does not involve things such as self- to learn a craft-based skill at different
Increasingly private schools are directed study, ICT, arts, etc. levels. From a woodland setting to a
small teaching workshop to a college
or university, there are different ways

to learn and, indeed, different reasons
for doing so. Whether you want to
change your life or your lifestyle, there
are opportunities for doing just that.
Who knows where it might lead? ■
Achieving degree status is a very real

The well set up and spacious machine shop at Peter Se on’s Woodworking School, and sa sfying achievement and it could
Upton upon Severn, Worcestershire be you

Community
ANTHONY BAILEY
PHOTOGRAPH BY GMC/
PHOTOGRAPH BY ZOE GERTNER
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDREA HARGREAVES

WOODWORKING COURSES
GREEN WOODWORKING Peter Se on Furniture School, Upton Bench Joinery, Heritage Crafts, Carpentry.
Peter Wood, Greenwood Days. Staunton upon Severn, Worcestershire. www.thebcc.ac.uk
Harold, Leicestershire. www.peterse onfurnitureschool.com
www.greenwooddays.co.uk Bridgwater College, Somerset. Furniture
Derek Jones, Robinson House Studio, Making Level 1, Manufacture Level 3,
Lee Stoffer, Bletchley, Buckinghamshire. Newhaven. www.lowfatroubo.co.uk Apprenticeship Level 2, Practical Making
www.covertcra .com Level 2. www.bridgwater.ac.uk
Marc Fish, Robinson House Studio,
Paul Adamson, Derbyshire Newhaven, East Sussex. City of Glasgow College, Glasgow.
www.pauladamsoncra .co.uk www.marcfish.co.uk Furniture Restoration HND. Furniture
HND, Furniture Craftsmanship with
Associa on of Pole Lathe Turners and Furniture Cra School, Scotney Castle, nr Design HND, Furniture NC.
Green Woodworkers (APTGW) have Tunbridge Wells, Kent. www.cityofglasgowcollege.ac.uk
many teaching members listed in their www.furniturecra school.co.uk
directory if you join up. Moulton College, Moulton, Northants.
www.bodgers.org.uk Chippendale School of Furniture, Gifford, Level 2 Diploma Wood machining, Level 3
East Lothian. Furniture Design and making.
Making Local Woods Work. These www.chippendaleschool.com www.moulton.ac.uk
community woodland sites often have
green woodcraft teaching sessions. The Wooburn Cra School, Wooburn City of Oxford College, Rycotewood.
www.makinglocalwoodswork.org Green, nr High Wycombe, Bucks. Furniture Centre – Furniture Design and
www.thewooburncra school.com Make – Foundation, HND, BA (Hons), City
CRAFT TEACHING & Guilds Diploma.
You may find small teaching workshops Fine Furniture Maker, Rowden www.cityofoxford.ac.uk
in your area or check adult education Workshops, Shebbear, Devon.
courses. For diverse but allied interests www.finefurnituremaker.com Lincoln University, Lincoln. Conservation
including woodworking visit of Cultural Heritage BA (Hons). Furniture
www.cra courses.com Waters & Acland, Lake District. Making and Furniture Production Levels
www.watersandacland.co.uk 2 and 3 Restoration and Conservation.
CARPENTRY www.lincoln.ac.uk
Taught at many colleges in the UK to Williams and Cleal, Taunton, Somerset.
City & Guilds, NVQ or CITB accredited www.williamsandcleal.co.uk University of Central Lancashire, Burnley
standard for the building industry. You College. Furniture Design and Make HND.
can choose between site carpentry or ADULT EDUCATION www.uclan.ac.uk
workshop joinery. Check your local authority website
for links and information about classes London Metropolitan University, Sir
WOODWORK TEACHING near you. John Cass School of Art, Architecture
Mul -Skills Workshop, Polegate, East and Design, City of London – Furniture
Sussex. www.mul skillsworkshop.co.uk COLLEGES AND UNIVERSITIES Restoration (short course), Foundation
Chichester, including Brinsbury campus. and short courses on Furniture Making.
Axminster Skill Centres, Axminster, Various furniture courses including www.londonmet.ac.uk
Devon, and Sittingbourne, Kent. Furniture Making Level 3 Advanced
www.axminster.co.uk/skill-centre Apprenticeship. www.chichester.ac.uk Kingston University, Kingston-Upon-
Thames, Surrey. Product and Furniture
Gentleman Joiner, Woodhall Barns, Send, Warwick College Group, Royal Design BA (Hons)and MA.
Surrey. www.christopherhall.co.uk Leamington Spa College. Furniture Crafts www.kingston.ac.uk
Level 2, Diploma in Design and Making
ADVANCED TEACHING (follow on course from Level 2). York St Johns University, York – Furniture
Chris Tribe Furniture, Ilkley, West www.wcg.ac.uk Design BA(Hons). www.yorksj.ac.uk
Yorkshire. www.christribe.co.uk
Building Cra s College, Stratford, East No ngham Trent University,
John Lloyd, Ditchling Common, West London. Fine Woodwork, Furniture Nottingham. Furniture and Product
Sussex. www.johnlloydfinefurniture.co.uk Making City & Guilds, Wood Machining, Design MA. www.ntu.ac.uk
WWC33_58_COURSES SUBBED.indd 58 28/09/2017 12:53

Project
Recycled
Pallet table
Paul Purnell’s recycled occasional table
is chock-a-block with colour
PHOTOGRAPHS BY NEIL LAWTON
WWC33_59-61_PALLET TABLE SUBBED.indd 59 28/09/2017 12:53

Project
EQUIPMENT USED
Tools
Tablesaw, bandsaw or jigsaw
Sheet sander
Materials
Pallet boards and assorted pallet
blocks. Ideally, assorted colours with
interesting markings 1 2
Piece of 17mm ply 450 x 350mm
Assorted screws
Wood glue
Varnish
I
t’s often the bits you want to throw
away that actually have the most
promise. Paul’s eye for shape and
colour shows how easy it really is to
turn the unpromising into something
quite worthy with this colourful and
easy-to-build project. It would look 3 4
good outdoors or in the conservatory –
or placed in the right modern cubist-
style living room.
Choose your colours

After you have disassembled several
pallets for making upcycled projects,
in addition to the main boards you will
have left over the blocks of wood that
separate the two layers. These make
good logs for the fire, but they can be
put to better use. This project is one
5 6
such use.
Many pallets, especially the coloured could consider cutting the blocks in
ones, have markings stamped on them. half to reduce the weight. However,
For example: red and brown pallets are leaving them full size gives a heavier
from Europe and marked with EUR or and more stable table.
EPAL; if the country of manufacturer
has heat-treated the lumber to kill
insects living in the wood, it will bear
the stamp IPPC HT; the mark KD
2 Place the finished pattern on to
a piece of 17mm ply. Draw around
the outside. Using a tablesaw or
means the wood has been kiln dried. jigsaw, cut a few millimetres outside
These are a few of many symbols this line.
authorised by the International Plant 7
Protection Convention of 1951. They
attest that phytosanitary (relating to
plants) measures have been applied to
3 Glue the blocks on to the backing
board, place a heavy weight on top
and leave overnight. Give a reference
four pieces of 17mm thick pallet
board, 590mm in length. Owing to the
the timber. The purpose is to minimise number or mark to each corner. This warping and other defects in pallet
the risk of introducing pests associated will help to keep track when fitting the wood, try each leg against the four
with the movement in international eight pieces that make up the legs. front and back corners to ascertain
trade of raw wood packaging. where each piece fits best. Label the
The symbols are colloquially referred
to as ‘wheat stamps’. 4 As extra security, screw the blocks
to the backing with 50mm screws.
piece with the reference number and
its orientation.
1 Arrange blocks into a pattern of

your choice. This table measures
410 x 319mm using the standard size
5 Trim the backing board flush to the
blocks with the tablesaw or jigsaw
to as near a rectangle as is possible.
7 Use the diagram to make a template
to shape the legs. Making sure
you have the correct orientation,
of blocks and 17mm boards that are draw the shape of the template
commonly used in the construction of
pallets. Trim blocks and use a piece of
filler wood if necessary, as I did. You
6 The legs consist of two pieces
attached at each corner. For the
front and back parts of the legs, cut
on each leg. Use the bandsaw to
cut out the segments. Here are the
finished legs with the template.

50
Project
30
90 230 90 17
90
465
105
90
17
DIMENSION DIAGRAMS
50
410 319
90 230 90 17 90 105 90 17
120 110 110
590
200
LARGE SQUARE = 50mm, SMALL SQUARE = 10mm
35 52
8 Attach these legs to the front and

back edges with 50mm screws.
Later, I will fit dowelling pegs into
these screw holes. This is optional.
If you wish to do this, first you will
need to drill a 6mm hole and then
the pilot hole for the screw. Fit
the legs so their edges overlap
the corners to allow the side leg
pieces to butt up against them.
Legs attached. 8 9
9 Cut another four pieces of board

for the side legs using the same
dimensions as those of step 6. Use the
bandsaw to cut out the segments as at
step 7. Butt the legs against the other
halves already fitted and screw into
place. With 35mm screws, secure each
pair of legs together approximately
75mm from the bottom.
10 Measure the distance between

each of the four mid-sections.
These are likely to vary by a few
10 11
millimetres. Use the tablesaw or

bandsaw to cut out these pieces. I
have used coloured pieces for the
mid-sections. You may choose to leave
them plain. Dry fit into place and draw
a curve to match up with the shape of
the legs as shown. Cut out the shape
with the bandsaw.
11 Attach mid-sections with

50mm screws.
12
into the screw holes and sanded flush,
13
depending on where you will use
12 Use a sheet sander, or similar,

to sand the table but not so it
but this is optional. the table. You now have something
pleasing to the eye that looks unique,
removes any of the letters or other
markings. I have fitted 6mm dowels 13 Apply four coats of your choice
of interior or exterior varnish,
as every table created like this will be a
bit different. ■

Technique
PHOTOGRAPHS BY GMC/ANTHONY BAILEY UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED

WINTER
Check-up
A store of split, dry logs cut to the
It’s definitely time to make sure you are ready right length to fit a woodstove, all
for anything the weather can chuck at you ready for winter. You need many
more logs than you think you do,
especially if it is a harsh winter
● So many houses have double-
I
f you haven’t already done so,
you need to make sure the house glazing that further insulation seems a lot of muck in them. Condensing
and your workshop are in good unnecessary. But double-glazing ages systems need to be correctly
order and ready for the vagaries of like anything else and a misted unit is pressurised before switching on and
our predictably very unpredictable inefficient and needs replacement. This keep some sealed bottles of water
weather. problem shows up in cooler, damp handy in case of a pipe burst as there is
weather where it might have seemed no tankage supply to fall back on.
CHECKLIST OK in summer.
● Woodburning stoves are brilliant
House ● Loft insulation has been promoted for focused, inviting warmth to
● Windows, doors and any other for a long time but building regulations supplement existing heating in the
essential work repaired and painted now demand thicker layers than ever, depths of winter but the flue must be
and weather-sealed properly. meaning access into a loft space may
Paintwork is best done earlier in the become impossible. In an existing
year because you can’t paint over wet property that isn’t being subject
woodwork, but if you are lucky you to a planning application, it can at
may have a fine, sunny day even at the least have an extra layer installed. At
wrong end of the year. the same time make sure pipework
is lagged. Cold supply pipes often
● A heavy downpour will quickly corrode on the outside and need pipe
show up problems with gutters and wrap to prevent this happening.
drains. Even if you have cleared them
previously, moss, leaves, sycamore ● Make sure your boiler has been
keys, grit and ‘bio-goo’ will quickly serviced in time for winter if you use
choke them if rain comes down gas or oil. Any radiators that aren’t Remaking window puষes and repainধng
quickly. High-level access can be heating up properly may need bleeding will repay dividends by giving a good
difficult but a gutter pole and scraper to remove air or possibly removing and level of protecধon in bad weather, the
may do the job from ground level. flushing out with water if they have boħom edge being the most vulnerable
WWC33_62_63_WINTER CHECKUP SUBBED.indd 62 28/09/2017 12:55

Technique
Lođ insulaধon benefits from being Door rope on a woodburner door gets
topped up with an extra layer over the very frayed and will not give a good seal.
top of the first. This lođ space is ready Installing a new one is easy using the
for extra treatment correct size kit and warming the stove to The dreaded blocked downpipe situaধon.
set the adhesive Ođen a cage fiħed in the top of the
downpipe can make maħers worse as
swept and in good condition. Llikewise with plastic membrane, followed by everything congregates around it
the stove needs its door seal and glass insulation board and topped off with
to be safe for use. Make sure seasoned moisture-resistant grade flooring
log supplies are ready and kept dry and chipboard.
have some indoors so they are ready to
use, along with a supply of slim offcuts ● Tools need protection from rust
or thin branches as kindling. in a cold, humid atmosphere. Use
toolboxes and tool cabinets to store
Workshop your tools properly and use an anti-
● Some of the same things also apply rust agent, which in those enclosed
to your workshop/garage/shed. In spaces will prevent rust forming.
addition, you may need to beef up
insulation by doing things like fitting ● Water-based glues degrade easily in Radiators need to be bled of any air using
polyurethane insulation board in the cold conditions so they need storing a radiator key and if any are very sluggish
ceiling or on the walls with a covering in a warm environment – your house, at heaধng, may need to be removed and
of OSB (oriented strand board) or ply basically. This also ensures the glue cleaned
to hold it in place, to which you can stays runny and useable.
then fix toolboards, etc. Single-glazed
windows can be glazed inside with ● Timber for important projects which
polycarbonate sheet – although it isn’t has been part-worked is better stored
as good as the real thing, it helps. in the house (under the bed?) until you
complete it, so it stays stable and drier
● A low-energy sealed electric heater and shrinks to more like its finished
(no open element) that can be left on a state.
timer will make a big difference when
you come to do some work. Some of these suggestions may seem a
bit obvious until, like me in past years,
● Use some sort of insulation on you are standing in a freezing-cold Normally glue runs easily, but not if the
the floor to protect your feet. You workshop with your breath clouding workshop is cold. The PVA glue separates
can buy clip-together work mats or in the atmosphere, cold hands and no from the water content and weakens the
lay a complete floor system starting incentive to stay and do any work. ■ compound enough to render it useless
Laying an insulated workshop floor is Rust protecধon is essenধal and one of If you want ধmber nice and dry ready
actually quite easy to do and the benefit the cheapest sorts is to use camphor to go, keeping it in the house will work
of damp and cold protecধon is immediate blocks – so long as you don’t mind the best as it becomes acclimaধsed to the
once the job is completed strong smell when you open the doors warmer, drier environment
WWC33_62_63_WINTER CHECKUP SUBBED.indd 63 28/09/2017 12:56

Community
A bark blade sheath

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAUL ADAMSON
Paul Adamson
– green woodworker Paul proudly holding a spoon
We are pleased to welcome Paul Adamson as was much easier to practise and retain
as a skill for me. This is mainly due
our latest green woodworking recruit. He is to having a family and needing to
here to tell us what he gets up to

be around for them, rather than off
on adventures. But I’m happy to say
we now all go on mini-adventures –
G
reetings all! My name is Paul order to retrain in arboriculture and to checking out the local wild food and
Adamson and, in short, I like discover a new love for trees. Every day ‘tracking’ with the kids is the highlight
making things. I guess I should I brought home sections of beautiful of my day.
elaborate, so here is the longer bit. I’m wood, planning to make things. After
getting to be almost middle-aged, but amassing a huge collection and people Bushcraft knives
every time I pick up a knife I still feel starting to complain somewhat, I The madness of making started with
like I did aged six when my Nan gave decided to take green woodworking Scandinavian bushcraft knives. I loved
me my first one. I know that something and knife-making seriously. The the equal need for metalworking,
useful will happen and hopefully woodpile soon depleted and nowadays woodworking and leatherworking skills
something creative too. I complete the cycle of foraging for to high tolerances. They had to look
After several happy years of making new supplies via sustainable woodland good, often containing 15-20 separate
sharp sticks, building dens and cooking management, and using it all up again. parts and be very practical. Practicality
in the woods, I finished school and Thirteen years ago ‘bushcraft’ and actually using the objects I make
started an apprenticeship at Rolls became a constant activity after I is really important to me. I learned by
Royce. Making items and drawing completed a wonderful week of spending a few hours watching friends
detailed plans filled the days until, training with Woodlore in East Sussex. at work, or demos at shows, then I just
unfortunately, the making stopped – It’s a huge subject and I’m still gave it a go.
as it did for many. I left one career in learning, but the craft side of things Spoon carving had been in the
WWC33_64_65_PAUL ADAMSON GREEN WOODWORKING SUBBED.indd 64 28/09/2017 12:58

Community
background since 2004, and reared carving to work with bark again, and
its head with a vengeance after I was what a nice change it is. Once that
asked to demonstrate the activity cylindrical pot takes on shape and
to the public, and then teach adults strength, it both becomes practical and
for the first time on formal courses beautiful, even without decoration.
in 2011. There weren’t many of us
doing it then so I spent a lot of time Kuksa drinking cups
on my own trying to develop a safe Another craft I’ve enjoyed under
and fun workshop. I’m really happy the banner of green woodworking
with how they have developed in the has been the production of wooden
years since after getting feedback from drinking cups, often called Kuksa.
the students. I’m improving each year This is a Finnish term for them and
myself, and I’m actually starting to like they have various other names across
my spoons now. Scandinavia, depending on where you
live – such as Kasa, Guksi, or Noggin.
Spoonfest They are often made from burls, or Demonstration day
Spoons, though, are wicked little things burrs, which as you probably know are
and lead on to all sorts of other carved the rounded growths on the side of the
projects. I started to attend a festival in main stems and roots of trees. Burrs
the Peak District of Derbyshire called have a beautiful, swirled and often
Spoonfest. Most of the international highly-figured grain which can also
craft folk I had admired via blogs and help with strength and waterproofing.
books over the years were suddenly in a They are harder to carve on both your
field up the road from me. How mad is hands and tools though, and are less
that? I had to go, and have had the best frequently found in woodland. I’ve
of times ever since learning from the spent a considerable amount of time
best guys from Sweden, the US, Britain, researching and making Kuksas to try
and the Netherlands. to eliminate or at least reduce, the
problems that occur from using easily-
Barkcraft found straight grained wood.
I really got into barkcraft around 2006 People often have a problem with
and after Spoonfest met one of the wooden cups splitting on drying or,
best barkcraft teachers and makers more often, when adding very hot
out there called Jarrod Stone Dahl. water to a finished cup. Let’s face it, Birch box
He makes canoes, canisters and bags it’s seriously character-building stuff
out of the material and they are a to spend days as a beginner making
joy to behold. I was again hooked a lovely cup only to see it destroyed
on barkcraft, particularly using birch in seconds by a brew. You could take
outer bark, but through more research the easy path and follow the advice
discovered the use of native British of many by only drinking cold liquids
inner barks. People complain about from them, but for me, the whole point
the type and quality of British birch of a Kuksa is to drink a freshly-brewed
bark all the time, but if you can only cup of coffee from it in the great
find small sections, make small objects. outdoors… or your home.
Another option is to use the inner
bark of suitable species grown as a Carving courses
coppice. This opens up the door to I’m in my fourth year of running
large, complicated bark products, courses in Kuksa carving, and as much
the kind you may have observed via as I enjoy teaching spoon carving,
native communities around the world. larger objects that have to perform well
Just the other day I had a break from for long periods are so much more
involved. A real challenge for all, and
one I cherish.
Well, there’s a bit about me. Nothing
remarkable I’m sure but I do like
where the simple carving of everyday
objects has taken me, and the people
and places I’ve met along the way.
Using the items for meals at home and
outdoor trips has seen the craft go
full circle, from learning how to work
in woodlands, making my own tools,
carving and thinking about designs to
finally enjoying a brew and a stew. ■ Kuksa drinking cups
WWC33_64_65_PAUL ADAMSON GREEN WOODWORKING SUBBED.indd 65 28/09/2017 12:58

The UK’s last remaining traditional saw manufacturers.
Now also manufacturing Clifton Planes
066_WWC_033.indd 66 27/09/2017 16:55

Technique
#@*&!%?! happens!
Extending short timber
Sometimes a piece of wood just isn’t long enough – what do you do?

M
aking a piece of wood garden hose with glue – it doesn’t using a sliding bevel and try square to
longer might seem like the work. So you need to find a way of make it tight fitting. Once it is correctly
preserve of a magic trick or extending the grain length using a cut it will need glue plus screws to
molecular realignment – but no, you long bevel cut. Even better, turn it into reinforce the joint.
really can add vital extra length if you a scarf joint, which resists the joint
need it. opening up.
3 Choose the correct glue for the job.
In this example it is a fence post,
1 Adding extra length to long-grain

wood poses problems because
bonding the cells in the wood end-
2 Having made a stepped cut in one
component you need to make a
similar cut to match in the piece you
so waterproof gap-filling polyurethane
adhesive is best. Once set, the excess
foam glue is trimmed off and the job
to-end is rather like trying to rejoin want to add on. The joint is laid out is done. ■
1 2 3
WWC33_67_****Happens SUBBED.indd 67 28/09/2017 13:02

Kit & Tools
KITTED OUT
Take a look at the tools, gadgets and gizmos that
we think you will enjoy using in your workshop
New Tormek T-4 Bushcraft for seriously
sharp knives and axes
Tormek of Sweden, well-known for its innovative water- £319.36
cooled sharpening system, has introduced the limited inc VAT
Tormek T-4 Bushcraft Edition made especially for the
outdoor market.
It is supplied with the Tormek original grindstone
and a genuine leather honing wheel. It comes with all
the standard accessories: the Stone Grader SP-650, the
AngleMaster WM-200, the Honing Compound PA-70,
Tormek’s handbook on sharpening and the DVD, also
jigs for sharpening knives and axes. You can sharpen
almost every type of knife, including kitchen knives and
axes, and bring them safely to a long-lasting razor edge.
Included in the box free of charge is a Kansbol knife with
sheath made by Morakniv of Mora in Sweden. This has
the flexibility of a lightweight knife and the strength of
a more robust model, making it perfect for your outdoor
excursions.
To find a Tormek T-4 Bushcrađ retailer in the UK and

Ireland, please visit brimarc.com or call 03332 406967
Bosch cordless GSA 18 V-32 professional sabre saw

Said to offer the best power-to-weight ratio in its class, the GSA 18 V-32
professional sabre saw gives the same performance as a comparable corded
tool but with cordless freedom. This sabre saw is also the first from Bosch to
feature ‘active vibration damping’. It should prove popular for tasks such as
From shortening installation pipes and ventilation shafts in building services and
£16.99 demolition work. Its powerful motor uses brushless EC technology for longer
inc VAT runtime and lifetime. A 5.0 Ah battery is supplied as standard. Saw blades are
easy and safe to change even wearing gloves. Turning the large ring on the
saw shaft opens the SDS holder to loosen the blade. Practical features include
IRWIN Vise-Grip pliers a metal hook to hang it up close to hand. Two LED lights provide good vision
Every tradesman needs a curved-jaw locking plier, even in the darkest workplaces. The new GSA 18 V-32 professional sabre saw
whether you work in maintenance, repair and is fully compatible with the comprehensive Bosch 18 V Li-ion range available
operations, automotive, or construction trades, it’s from specialist retailers. Recommended retail price inc VAT £349.20, subject
the perfect tool to get the job done. to change.
Irwin Vise-Grip locking pliers are constructed RRP
of high-grade heat-treated alloy steel to offer £349.20
maximum toughness and durability, with hardened inc VAT
teeth designed to grip from any angle.
The newest addition to the range includes the
fast-release curved-jaw which is available in two
core models: Fast Release, with a one-handed,
triggerless release featuring anti-pinch, non-slip
ProTouch grips, and Original with a classic trigger
release.
The fast-release curved jaw is available in
125mm, 175mm and 250mm, while the fast-release
curved-jaw with wire cutter is available in 100mm,
125mm, 175mm and 250mm.
Visit: www.irwin.co.uk
WWC33_68_69_KIT & TOOLS.indd 68 28/09/2017 13:03

Kit & Tools
New autumn/winter TEST

Machine Mart catalogue
Whether you’re furniture or
cabinetmaking, woodworking or winter-
proofing your workshop, the new Machine
Merlin2 universal carving set
PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL HOWARD

Mart catalogue has all the tools and Using the sanding
equipment you need. Packed with more pads to clean up
than 1,600 new products and massive some cuts
price cuts, the new 500-page autumn/
winter catalogue is a must-have for
woodworking enthusiasts wanting huge
choice at unbeatable value. Machine Mart
offers a superb range
of woodworking
tools and machinery,
including sanders,
saws, lathes and log
splitters, along with
a superb range of
heaters and cast
iron stoves, plus
much more.
Mark Baker puts King Arthur’s Tools Merlin2
universal carving set featuring a miniature long-
Solid Gear safety shoes –
ideal for winter neck angle grinder through its paces
Solid Gear and Toe Guard safety shoes
and boots are fast becoming one of the
K
ing Arthur’s Tools is well is the one to use if you want fast
most popular brands among discerning known for power carving bulk waste removal but the steepest
tradesmen and women. With Vibram products and shaping and learning curve. I loved the carbide
outsole and Cordura Rip-Stop fabric, sanding tools for power carvers. disc and found it did everything I
you get rugged protection all day long. The Merlin2 is a scaled-down angle asked of it, as did the sanding discs.
Goretex forms part of the uppers to grinder with a long neck that is The sanding discs and carbide cutter
make them highly breathable. They’re designed to take 50mm diameter on resins, acrylics, horn and soft
also water-repellent and waterproof accessories. The universal carving stone, worked without problems. If
to keep your feet dry. The unique set comprises: a material carry bag, you want to explore power carving,
BOA closure system on certain styles a Merlin2 variable-speed miniature shaping and sanding, the Merlin2 is
distributes the pressure evenly across long-neck angle grinder with either a very versatile tool definitely worth
your feet to ensure a glove-like fit. This variable or fixed-speed options, considering.
combination of materials, fabrics, linings a 50mm saw chain cutter, a Merlin2
and high-tech features provides the kind carbide disc, a fibreglass cutting Prices
of insulation and protection that will keep disc, and three flap wheel-type Merlin2 variable-speed Deluxe set
your feet warm and comfortable on cold sanding disks. £ 326.66 (shown in photo)
winter days. The cutting head end has a strong Merlin2 variable speed Universal
adjustable guard to help work woodcarving set £251.66
with both the shaping and cutting There are numerous optional extra
From discs and sanding accessories accessories to augment the Merlin2,
starting from £4.50
£38 effectively and safely and provide
inc VAT finger protection. These are all held
in place via a hexagonal thread King Arthur’s Tools
connector (HTC) which allows Web: www.katools.com
numerous optional extra accessories UK stockist: The Toolpost
to be used. Web: www.toolpost.co.uk
Verdict
I could not fault the quality of the
Merlin2 and found that it works
very well indeed. The variable speed
adjustment gives a huge amount
of control – not everything needs
to be run at full pelt. Changing the
accessories is easy with minimal
Visit www.solidgearfootwear.com or downtime. The chainsaw-type cutter
Snickers Helpline 01484 854788
WWC33_68_69_KIT & TOOLS.indd 69 28/09/2017 13:03

Community
BOOK REVIEWS
The Editor has a eureka moment while perusing
this book selection in the bath
Bathroom Idea Book

By Jamie Gold
At the moment I am remodelling the bathroom at home, so this fancy tome

could not have been better timed for added inspiration. It is filled with every
variety of bath and bathroom conceivable and, while it leaves you with a palpable
sense of envy due to the grandeur of the more luxurious examples, it does
inspire one to ‘think outside the sink’. This room in any house is the second
busiest after the kitchen and a source of domestic friction when everyone
wants to primp, preen, bath and shower at the same time. You might as well
make it as pleasant as possible so it is an enjoyable place to get clean and ready.
From the traditional to the modern,, from the small and b j to the large
bijou g and
ood ideas.
opulent, you can find plenty of good eas.
I suppose my favourite pages were e the ones
o with Moroccan
k (get concreting)
or Spanish tiles, a mosaic dish sink c ISBN: 978-1-63186405-6
97
and large flat pebbles in a shower base Price: £ £18.99
1
set in resin. Standalone baths as a Published
Puubl e by The Taunton Press
bliissshe
he
h
centrepiece and outdoor showers also
ome
inspired me. In addition, there’s some
good technical advice for plumbing ng
and materials. Something basicallyy
for everyone to take away from this is
colourful book.
My Cool Shed
By Jane Field-Lewis
This is one of those books that leaves you wishing, wishing. So many wonderful,
wacky, inspiring, restful sheds and shed-type retreats where you can let your mind
just drift away. I have several sheds in my back garden, but none of them looks
like any of these – although with a bit of imagination and ingenuity, perhaps,
who knows? A place to write your memoirs, to play guitar, become a great
rnoon ttea
undiscovered artist, have afternoon ea or d o some wood
do dcarving,
i
woodcarving, a sh
hed
d iiss ffor
shed or
everyman and woman, not to o mention the kids of course. There are
various examples – on a nauticaliccal theme, a rustic hideaway,
tyy, paint-flaking
an eclectic mix in a worn, tatty, ISBN 978-1-86205-933-7
ISBN:
shed, a shed with a verandah by b the Price:
ce £14.99
Pric
haack,
water as the perfect fishing shack, Published
Pu
P ub
bll by Pavilion Books
an ‘off-grid’ shed to practise
eco principles that you hold
dear, a library and reading
room in a meadow, urban
container living or your very
own beach hut. Ah well, I can n Both
B
Bo h books are available from:
otth
at least dream. Maybe when GMC
G
GMMC Publications
the kids have finally left home e www.thegmcgroup.com
w
wwww
and taken all their belongingss 01273
01
0 12
277 488005
with them…
WWC33_70_BOOK REVIEW SUBBED.indd 70 28/09/2017 13:04

Project
Carve a
Kitchen spatula
This spatula is
designed with a
slanted head and a
bevelled edge for
more precision and
versatility. The flat
end is perfect for
stirring soups or
stews and deglazing
pans for braises ➤
You will need
• Pencil
• 1 piece of mahogany wood (see tip
on page 73), cut lengthwise with the
Extract from: grain to 2½ x 12 x ½in
Carve –A Simple • Carving gloves or leather thumb
Guide to Whiħling guard
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE RICCARDI
ISBN: 978-0-451-49896-0 • Whittling knife

Price: £12.99 • 100, 150, and 220 grit sandpapers,
Published by Clarkson Potter cut to 2 x 3in
• Soft 100% cotton cloths
Available from GMC Publications • Food-grade mineral oil
www.thegmcgroup.com • Beeswax mixture (instructions
01273 488005
follow)
WWC33_71-73_SPATULA SUBBED.indd 71 28/09/2017 13:06

Project
WHITTLING TECHNIQUES
THE POWER CUT THE PUSH CUT

Use the power cut to remove big chunks of wood. Hold Use the push cut to skim the wood, especially when you’re
the wood securely in your non-dominant hand, grasp the close to the final shape. Hold the wood securely in your
knife in your dominant hand and cut with the grain and non-dominant hand. Position the blade on the wood at a
away from you using long strokes, being careful not to lose slight angle (going with the grain, so that the shavings curl).
control of the knife. Angling your blade deep into the wood Place your non-dominant thumb on the back (dull side) of
will increase the amount you remove, but be mindful as you the blade, pushing the knife into the wood to remove small,
carve – if the wood’s grain is naturally too loose, you may shallow shavings. For more precision and more power, you
inadvertently start to cut off a large chunk. If that happens, can place your dominant thumb on the other thumb to help
don’t panic, just flip the piece and cut in the opposite push the knife.
direction to save that chunk.
THE PULL OR PARING CUT THE STOP CUT

Use the pull or paring cut to get into tight spaces or to Use the stop cut to create perpendicular angles or carve
create perpendicular lines (such as where the handle of notches in the wood for removing material. Hold the wood
a spatula will meet the base of the flat blade). Grasp the securely in your non-dominant hand, grasp the knife in your
knife in your dominant hand (as you would the handle of dominant hand and push the blade of the knife with your
a motorcycle) and hold the wood securely in your non- thumb against the grain and into the wood to make a simple
dominant hand. Place your dominant thumb on the wood notch. You can rock your knife back and forth to deepen or
and the blade at a slight angle on the wood. Squeeze the lengthen the notch into a line. To remove a small, triangular
knife toward you using your thumb as leverage (as if you piece of wood, use a push cut to carve into the notch. The
were peeling an apple). knife will stop at the notch. Continue stop cutting and push
cutting to achieve your desired depth.
1 Draw the handle and head of the

spatula on to the wood. Whittle the
wood with the knife to roughly the
drawn shape by using power cuts (see
technique above) and push cuts (see
technique above). A quicker option is
to use a handsaw to shape the wood.
2 Use push cuts to refine and round

out the handle of the spatula into
the dowel shape (A). Whittle the end
of the handle to round it out using
push cuts (B, C), tapering the tip to be
¼in wide (D). A B

Project
3 Use push cuts and pull cuts

where necessary to refine the
neck of the spatula, creating a slight
curve in the wood where the head
meets the handle (E). To better refine
the neck, you may want to use the
stop cut to help you carve into the
tight space.
4 Slice off the long edges of the

head (F) to create a double-bevelled
head that is thickest at the base and
thinner toward the edge, so that the C D
edge comes to a V and creates the
bevel (G).
5 Slightly round out the four

corners of the head using push
cuts (H).
6 Sand the spatula with the grain

until the wood is even and smooth.
Begin sanding with the 100 grit and
work your way up to the 220 grit as
each sandpaper dulls. Make sure to
sand the neck of the spatula well, so
that you have a smooth transition from E F
the handle to the head.
7 Use a cotton cloth to rub the

spatula with a layer of mineral
oil, and then use another cloth to
add a layer of beeswax for extra
protection. Let the spatula dry
overnight before using. ■
TIP: Don’t use exotic woods such

as rosewood that may leach harmful
oils into your food or reclaimed lumber
that may have been chemically treated
G H
or exposed to toxins. Instead, choose
mahogany or another hardwood that is
naturally food-safe. Beeswax mixture Working with care, because the wax
To preserve your piece and to create is hot (wear gloves if you wish), dip a
a stunning finish, apply two coats of a 100% cotton towel or an old T-shirt in
beeswax mixture. Because wax is very the wax and rub it in a circular motion
difficult to clean, you’ll need to dedicate on the wood to completely cover the
a vessel for just this purpose. I use a object. Let the wax dry slightly and then
small crock-pot that I found at a yard apply another coat. Wait about an hour
sale for five dollars, but an old pot set to let the wax dry completely, then buff
over a smaller pot of simmering water the piece with a clean 100% cotton
(to make a double boiler) will work fine. cloth to remove any excess wax.
In the pot, heat a 25/75 mixture An object sealed with wax should be
of beeswax to mineral oil (make sure able to withstand light water exposure
the latter is food-grade if you intend or food use. To revitalise it after
to apply it to kitchen items used for prolonged handling, simply reapply two
eating), stirring every five minutes coats of the hot wax mixture, let it dry,
until the wax becomes a smooth liquid. and buff off excess wax. If your object
Add more oil to the beeswax mixture sustains severe damage from water or
if you want a smoother wood butter, or another source, it may be necessary
add more wax if you prefer the texture to sand it completely, refinish it, and
of a paste. reapply wax.

Technique
WORKSHOP TIPS
Alex Burnett h
has some id
ideas to make
k your workshop
k h safer
f and
d convenient
Magnetic attraction
This pencil holder is made from a scrap
piece of 100 x 50mm. A look at the
holder fixed to the front of my bandsaw
shows how simple the cuts are. Assuming
the ends are square, the first cut is the
dust escape notch near the bottom, then
stand it on end and drill the holes to
take the pencils – four seems optimum
for a 100mm-wide piece of timber.
Avoid drilling past the dust notch as it is
supposed to let dust escape. Cut the top
at an angle to facilitate returning
the pencils.
Now comes the clever bit, sink a super
magnet in the back, keep the surface of
the magnet level with the surface of the
wood. I used a keeper, which is a shallow cup made to take the magnet.
It focuses the strength outwards to better hold it in place. I have used a
19mm magnet which is enough to hold the block, pencils and compass
on the front of the bandsaw.
Just the drill Safety

A block drilled with holes to accommodate drills and note
various shafted tools always has a certain amount of In-line plugs are readily
moisture in it. This can cause rust on the shafts and, as the available and legal. However,
wood swells and contracts with the change of seasons, can you should note the half with the
be too tight or too loose. To improve on this, I cut up a exposed pins must be attached to the
plastic kitchen chopping board and the wooden baseboard powertool and the socket part attached
to equal sizes so they would fit accurately on shelves in to the extension lead running to the
my cupboard. I drilled countersunk clearance holes at the mains. This avoids any risk of exposed
corners and centre of the plastic board. The edges were live pins when the connector is
separated. They are available
routed smooth then I cut five equal lengths of dowel and
in 5-10amp ratings.
drilled a clearance hole through the centre of them. The
plastic board was mounted about 19mm above the wooden
base by screws, run through the dowels. Suitable sized
holes were drilled to take the shafts of the items I wanted Tools unplugged
to fit. I now have no problems with extraction or rust. After a long day in the workshop I picked my old 1⁄2in
Makita router up by one of the supports and my knuckle
flicked the switch on. The ½in straight bit was rotating
at about 20,000rpm a fraction away from my knuckle.
I kept my cool – and my knuckle – and switched it off
without suffering damage. I discovered three pin plugs
and sockets that matched all requirements to improve
this dangerous situation. The added bonus is that power
tool changes can now be carried out at the job without
having to return to the plug and socket.
Suppliers
The three pin flat plug/socket combination from various
electrical suppliers including: cpc.farnell.com
Magnets and keeper cups are available from:
www.first4magnets.com
WWC33_74_WORKSHOP TIPS SUBBED.indd 74 28/09/2017 13:07

Community
Coming next month in
Carve a
fox-head
walking
stick ISSUE 34
ON SALE
23 NOV
Contemporary Willow French tool

hall table workshop museum
PLUS: • Routers v ‘the rest’ • Board handling • Lapland shelter
Trees for life – chestnut • Woodland ways – Christmas wreaths & greenery
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077_WWC_033.indd 77 10/3/17 3:51 PM

Community
ANTHONY BAILEY
Ask the experts Editor,

Woodworking
Crafts magazine
MARK BAKER
Another selection of awkward questions Group Editor,
GMC woodworking
for our experts to answer magazines
BREAKOUT
‘ I’ve been using some ply for making built-in furniture, but
when I cut it with a circular saw it causes the edges to tear out,
particularly on the top surface, which spoils it as I want to use
★
the ply with a dye and a varnish over the top and filler will spoil
p
it. Any suggestions?
Ray Bannen
’
Anthony replies: This is a common problem but the
answer isn’t entirely simple. It starts with the actual
QUE
STAR
STIO
N
board material. Not all ply is the same quality – more
expensive boards are better made and a bit less likely to
flake along the edges. You don’t mention if you are using
veneered board, but in the case of ply that is faced with
veneer it will have an ‘A’ face, which is the most decorative,
and a ‘B’ face, which often uses strips of veneer, making it
more suitable for internal surfaces. The real problem is that
veneered ply is ‘sanded back to thickness’, unlike veneered
MDF, so the show veneer is less than paper-thin, vulnerable A depressing sight
to ‘sanding through’ and fragile along the edges. Breakout
mostly occurs cutting across the grain.
1) Next, the blades used for cutting the ply. Circular saw
rip blades are too coarse. A crosscut saw blade or, better
still, a triple chip tooth blade is the best sort because it has
many more, smaller teeth than a rip blade. The blade should
only protrude through the board just enough to cut cleanly.
To avoid the cut becoming uneven make sure the board is
completely supported and flat.
2) The face with the blade projecting will be the face with
little or no breakout damage. The other face will inevitably
‘spelch’ (breakout). There are two strategies you can use.
Turn the board upside down with the best face downwards
when using a portable saw. On a tablesaw the best face
is uppermost. The ‘B’ face with the breakout can then
be placed where it isn’t visible if you can plan your cuts
correctly. Failing that, before sawing it, but after marking the
cut line, turn it over and score through the surface of the ‘B’
face. Hopefully the scoring will be close to the actual cut line
and eliminate the breakout. Much better with a dedicated saw blade
THAT’S THE DRILL for the bit to grip into even with a threaded tip. There is
‘ I’ve been making toy projects that require some large-

diameter end grain drilling but it hasn’t been a great success
– slow progress, wandering off the marks and burning. Any
advice about how to make it work?
nothing to stop the bit wandering off course as the wood
grain pushes the tip to the side. It makes a big difference if
you can fix the wood under a pillar drill. If the sections are
on end and longish, you could clamp them to the side of
Phil Holsworth
’
Anthony replies: Trying to drill into end grain timber
the workbench and swing the pillar drill head out over the
wood. You would then have control and it would be easier
to apply pressure using the pillar drill lever or handwheel.
There are various patterns of large drill such as the Forstner
can be a thankless activity. Unfortunately there isn’t an bit, but I’ve found the Bosch spade bits are genuinely faster
easy answer because the grain, as we erroneously call it, is and more effective than other makes on account of the
directly facing the end of the drill bit with precious little cutter geometry.
WWC33_78_79_ASK THE EXPERTS SUBBED.indd 78 28/09/2017 13:09

Community
MISSING LINK
‘ Hi Anthony. I have only recently found your magazine and

love the kind of eclectic mix of subjects. It isn’t quite what I
expected from a woodworking magazine but it’s still quite
techy and grounded at the same time. I feel I’ve missed out on
aeons of time and all the back issues. How do, or can, I get hold
of past issues?
P.S. As a student of architecture and an architectural student
I found your Classical Order feature very interesting – but don’t
you think a mention of the brilliant Frank Lloyd Wright’s first
own house design with its nod to classical Greece might just
have been in order?
Sophie Byworth
’
Anthony replies: Hi Sophie. Thanks for your remarks
The Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio, Oak Park, Chicago
about the magazine, we try to make it touch a lot of bases, to some way. Phone our sales dept. on 01273 488005 and they
reflect the title of the magazine. There isn’t really anywhere can also help with your request. May I also suggest our very
we can’t go when we are trying to decide on content in the large and popular website full of free content where you
pursuit of keeping it fresh and interesting. Um, Frank Lloyd will find a lot of interesting stuff:
Wright, you have me there, but I did make plain that we had www.woodworkersinstitute.com
skipped over a lot of very worthy architecture – it needs a Woodworking Crafts also now has an Instagram page,
book not a magazine feature to cover the whole gamut. which gives you an idea of what is upcoming in the
Regarding back issues, we keep stock going back quite magazine, search – woodworkingcrafts.
SCRAPING ALONG might want to consider Peter Sefton’s
‘ I’m self-taught at woodworking (and

I read a lot and look at YouTube videos)
and I think I’m getting quite good at
bench woodworking, considering I’ve
series of DVDs which I reviewed a
several issues ago. He is a really good
teacher.
Sanding – which ought to be called
‘abrading’, strictly speaking – does seem
done very little before. One thing I’m a odd as it involves scratching wood to
little perplexed about is whether to sand make it smooth, but it is the way it has
wood or scrape it to finish it. Is there a been done for a very long time.
Using a card scraper or scraper plane
preferred method? Sanding is dusty and does require the knack of creating a Roughing it up to make it smooth
wastes abrasives, but scraping I find hard nice even burr on the edge and then
to get along with. Some advice please.
’
achieving an even finish with it. Both
John Vickers methods are sort of ‘duffing up’ wood
to get it to a finish. Sanding is easier
Anthony replies: First of all I think overall as scraping can give quite
you need to be a little wary of advice a coarse result if you aren’t skilled
given in YouTube videos, because not enough at it. Unfortunately, sanding
all of it is sound or safe and sometimes wood is just an inevitable part of the
it’s conflicting as well. Anyone can put process of making. However, using the
video clips online so it’s best to follow right type, grit grades and methods will
someone who already has a good determine how quick, easy and good
reputation. If you are really keen you the finish really is. Skill is needed for effective scraping
★
The Tool Marketing Company, or TOMACO, as it is
T prize-winner will receive a Narex six-piece chisel set
STAR known, which sells a variety of tool brands, including
k worth £79.95 and all other published questions will
N COLT, Sharp Edge and Narex Tools, is pleased to be
QUESTIO C receive a 20mm half-round fine cut
PRIZE ssponsoring the Ask the Experts section in collaboration Narex rasp worth £20.95. For more
with GMC Publications. Each issue’s Star Question
w information see www.tomaco.co.uk
N.B. If you do need help or advice you can email me: anthonyb@thegmcgroup.com or visit:
www.woodworkersinstitute.com where there are lots of useful articles, either way the service is free!
By submitting your questions and photos, you agree that GMC Publications may publish your Work in our magazines, websites, electronic or any other mediums known now or invented in the future.
In addition GMC may sell or distribute the Work, on its own, or with other related material. This material must not have been submitted for publication elsewhere
WWC33_78_79_ASK THE EXPERTS SUBBED.indd 79 04/10/2017 15:13

Community
Trees for life

There is a tree species that everybody knows but seldom
uses in their own workshops nowadays, and that is – teak
Did you
know?
The word teak
T
he teak tree (Tectona grandis) has very special
qualities for which it is famed. Extremely comes from
durable with a slightly oily or waxy quality, Tamil ‘tekku’
it has outfitted yachts, chemistry lab benches and
garden furniture everywhere. The name is often used
in reference to wood dye colours, a yellowish brown.
There was a period when every home seemed to have
teak furniture, now fallen from fashion but still a
dependable timber if you can afford it.
Teak
Teak (Tectona grandis) is a tropical hardwood tree
species placed in the flowering plant family Lamiaceae
and native to south and south east Asia, mainly India,
Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Myanmar
and Bangladesh, but it is naturalised and cultivated
in many countries in Africa and the Caribbean. It
can develop in a wide range of climates, from arid
areas to moist forests. Myanmar teak forests account
for nearly half of the world’s naturally occurring
teak. It is sometimes known as ‘Burmese teak’. It is
a large, deciduous tree up to 40m tall with grey to
greyish-brown branches. Leaves are ovate-elliptic 15-
45cm long by 8-23cm wide, and are held on robust
petioles that are 2-4cm in size. Fragrant white flowers
are borne on 25-40cm long by 30cm wide panicles
from June to August. It sets fruit from September to
December – fruits are 1.2-1.8cm in diameter. Pollen is
shed within a few hours of the flower opening.
The flowers are primarily insect-pollinated, but can
also be wind-pollinated.
Myanmar teak
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK
Rounded leaf form Seeds on a teak tree
WWC33_80_82_Trees For Life_ Teak SUBBED.indd 80 04/10/2017 15:15

Community
Typical uses
It is particularly valued for its durability and water resistance
PHOTOGRAPH BY JIM ROBINSON

due to its high oil content and tight grain formation, and is used
for boat-building, exterior construction, veneer, furniture,
carving, turnings and other small wood projects. Over time teak
can weather to a silvery-grey finish, especially when exposed to
sunlight. Although it is usually left bare outdoors, it does need
regular treatment with teak oil.
Teak is a perfect all-weather ধmber An aħracধve bookcase
A secধon of planed teak
Working characteristics
Teak wood has a leather-like smell when
it is freshly milled. It has low stiffness and
resistance to shock loads, high crushing
strength, medium bending strength and
moderate steam bending qualities. It is acid
and fire resistant. Although easily worked,
it can cause severe blunting on edged tools
because of the presence of silica in the wood, Above: Teak
therefore tungsten carbide cutters are advised. boards glued
PHOTOGRAPH BY JIM ROBINSON
Pre-boring for screws and nails is necessary. together

Gluing is possible although it is usual for
surfaces to be first cleaned of oiliness using
methylated spirits. The heartwood is resistant
to preservative treatment, the sapwood
moderately so. Teak is expensive, there are Right: Edge
alternatives such as iroko (Milicia excelsa). planing a board

Community
Environment
The vast majority of commercially
harvested teak is grown on teak
plantations found in Indonesia
and controlled by Perum Perhutani
(a state-owned forest enterprise),
which manages the country's forests.
The primary use of teak harvested
in Indonesia is the production of
outdoor teak furniture for export.
Nilambur in Kerala, India, is also
a major producer of fine-quality
teak with the world's oldest teak
plantation. Teak consumption
raises a number of environmental
concerns, such as the disappearance
of rare old-growth teak. However,
its popularity has led to an
increase in sustainable plantation
teak production throughout
the seasonally dry tropics in
forestry plantations. The Forest
Stewardship Council (FSC) offers Plantaধon trees
certification of sustainably grown
and harvested teak products. exported by Indonesia and Myanmar.
Teak plantations were widely There is also a rapidly growing
established in Equatorial Africa plantation grown market in Costa Rica,
during the Colonial era. These Central America and South America.
timber resources, as well as the oil With a depletion of remaining natural
reserves, have been at the heart of hectares of teak forests elsewhere, a
the South Sudanese conflict. growth in plantations in Latin America
Much of the world's teak is is expected to rise. Disধncধve teak logs in stack
Flaking bark on an older tree

Eye-catching annual ring structure
The future
Hazards Pests and diseases The International Teak Information
Teak can cause the following It is very durable and resistant to Network (TEAKNET) exists to address
effects – dermatitis, conjunctivitis, termites and fungi. The sapwood the interests of everyone with a concern
irritation to nose and throat, is vulnerable to powderpost for teak, from growers to traders,
nausea and photophobic beetle. The teak defoliator moth researchers and anyone else with an
reaction. It is one of a number of develops from a caterpillar that interest in this important tree.
timbers known to be carcinogenic feeds on various trees, including Make Your Own Discoveries -
with prolonged exposure. the teak. www.teaknet.org

083_WWC_033.indd 83 10/5/17 2:19 PM
Issue 32 October 2017 Issue 31 Autumn 2017
HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING OTURNING ORESTORATION ODIY HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING OTURNING ORESTORATION ODIY
From bed How to use

to bench guidebushes
make a
recycled seat
The small, smart,
‘swiss army’ toolkit
TECHNIQUES
Powermatic chisel Glue tech
mortiser on test Drilling on the lathe
Feature Picture frame repair
TECHNIQUES Classical order Fitting out box interiors
Painting MDF What have the Greeks
Glue tech part II and Romans given us?
?
NOTCHED STACKING CHAIRS • GLUE TECHNIQUE • KITCHEN CUTTING BOARD SEAHORSE LETTER OPENER • RUSTIC TEALIGHT HOLDERS • BLOCK PRINTS
Missed
an issue
YOU CAN STILL OBTAIN BACK

ISSUES DIRECTLY FROM US!
A back issue of Woodworking Crafts

magazine costs £5.25 in the UK
and £5.75 overseas.
To check availability and to order:

CALL OUR SALES TEAM ON
+44 (0) 1273 488 005 OR
VISIT OUR WEBSITE:

WWW.THEGMCGROUP.COM
16-258 Back Issues_WWC.indd 84 10/6/17 10:31 AM

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THE MODELMAKER’S YEARBOOK
TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL RUSSELL: 01273 402841 Woodworking Cra[s issue 33 87
WWC_Classifieds.indd 87 10/6/17 11:03 AM

Community
Focus on…
Tillamook Air Museum

There’s big, there’s large and there’s – just huge.
The home of Tillamook Air Museum is the biggest
clear-span wooden structure on the planet
S
ituated in Tillamook County, Hangar A was completed in just
Oregon at Tillamook airfield is 27 days, but amazingly no one was
the colossal Hangar B, a vast killed or injured, despite the pace of
wooden structure and one of 17 built building. It survived until 1992 when Hangar B
by the US Navy in 1942 intended unfortunately it was destroyed by fire. - Facts and Figures
to house K-Class airships for anti- Naval Air Station Tillamook was Length – 1,072ft
submarine patrols and convoy escort in home to Squadron ZP-33 with a Width – 296ft
World War II. Two hangars were built complement of eight K-Class airships. Height – 192ft (more than 15 storeys)
at Tillamook for use in the Oregon, These were 252ft long, 80ft in Doors – 120ft high (in six sections
Washington and California areas. diameter and filled with 425,000 cubic weighing 30 tons each, running on
With the war in progress feet of helium. railroad track opening to 220ft wide).
construction was rushed, with They had a range of 2,000 miles and Two catwalks 137ft high above the
Hangar B completed in August 1943. were able to stay aloft for three days at hangar floor.
a time. Floor area greater than seven acres.
When Japan surrendered and its Tillamook is now home to the Air
submarine threat was eliminated, Museum and contains a wide variety
NAS Tillamook was reduced to of fixed and rotary wing aircraft,
functional status and in 1948 it was classic vehicles and even a steam
decommissioned for good. ■ locomotive.
It has various events and is involved
with education work and even hosts
‘fly-ins’ as it is still situated on a
working airfield.
To find out more about Hangar B
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BOB CRONK
and see black and white photos of the

construction and the airships that
were housed there visit:
www.tillamookair.com
WWC33_88_FOCUS ON SUBBED.indd 88 28/09/2017 13:12

More freedom of movement for
better sanding.
The new cordless compact sanders
RTSC 400, DTSC 400 and ETSC 125.
Cordless mobility. Performance that’s like working with a mains-powered

tool.
The new cordless compact sanders boast powerful material removal and
endurance thanks to the 18 V Ergo battery pack and brushless EC-TEC
motor. They are lightweight, with an optimised centre of gravity for cordless
comfort. And they have the flexibility to allow them to be quickly converted
to a mains-powered machine for continuous work using a plug-it adapter.
Do you want to experience first-hand these new hybrid sanders? Then head
to your specialist retailer or visit
www.festool.co.uk/cordless-sander
IBC_WWC_033.indd 1 27/09/2017 16:58

OBC_WWC_033.indd 1 27/09/2017 16:16

Woodworking Crafts December 2017

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Issue 33 November 2017

HAND, POWER & GREEN WOODWORKING ● TURNING ● RESTORATION ● DIY

GREEN WOODWORKING • BATHROOM CABINET • RECYCLED PALLET TABLE

WWC33 COVER.indd 1 19/10/2017 14:56

£119.99 INC VATT

£129.99 INC VAT

4 Heavy-Duty Staple 5 150mm/6”

£19.99 INC VAT £9.99 INC VAT

IFC_001_WWC_033.indd 2 27/09/2017 16:45

WWC33_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER SUBBED.indd 2 28/09/2017 12:09

Woodworking Crafts issue 33 3

WWC33_2_3_CONTENTS_&_LEADER SUBBED.indd 3 04/10/2017 14:53

EVERYTHING YOU NEED

T 55 W elite s ECO 300 D

004_WWC_033.indd 4 27/09/2017 16:48

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK

aerosols, tubes and

Fabric-backed doors and woven

Woodworking Crafts issue 33 5

WWC33_5_DESIGN_INSPIRATION SUBBED.indd 5 28/09/2017 12:17

1 It is a timber that usually cups

2 Cut out the longest lengths first

3 Buy plenty of material as the boards

4 Maple is also very susceptible to

WWC33_6_11_Bathroom cabinet SUBBED.indd 6 28/09/2017 12:27

Main joints strengthened

Glazed doors with glass set into

5 Make the initial planing cuts with

6 If the boards are quite variable in

Woodworking Crafts issue 33 7

WWC33_6_11_Bathroom cabinet SUBBED.indd 7 28/09/2017 12:27

27 211 212 211 27

900 864 900

FRONT ELEVATION SECTION

WWC33_6_11_Bathroom cabinet SUBBED.indd 8 28/09/2017 12:27

7 …and then feeding them through

8 The ovangkol started out as some

9 A job like this allows you to cut it

10 Plane and thickness this material

11 The mirrors were sourced from

12 The door components are

13 Two dowels will suffice in each

14 The mirrors need a 4mm wide

15 Remember to stop the groove

Woodworking Crafts issue 33 9

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16 Put ‘start’ and ‘stop’ marks on

17 My one concession to alleviating

19 With the door size now

20 Once again use the Joint Genie

21 End dowels are drilled in the

22 Make a trial assembly to make

23 When there are so many

24 ….before completing the

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25 Now machine up the drawer

26 The drawers are jointed using

28 Adjust the fence position

29 …and then put a groove for the

30 The bottom itself is a piece of

31 Give the doors a thorough

32 Fit the hinges, drilling proper

33 Remember that this unit is

34 Finish with three or four coats of