Woodsmith-W1001 (Bookcases, Cabinets - Shelves, Volume 2)

From the
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B
C
OOKCASES
&S
Bookcases, Cabinets
ABINETS HELVES Back By

POPULA
Demand R
450 +
& Shelves
!
Illustrations
& Photos
Step-by-Step
Plans to Build:
Classic Cabinets
for storage & display
Woodsmith.com
Timeless Shelves
you can make in a weekend
Beautiful Bookcases
with custom design options A Publication of August Home Publishing
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Bookcases
cabinets & shelves
President & Publisher: Donald B. Peschke
Editor: Terry J. Strohman
Managing Editors: Vincent Ancona, Bryan Nelson

Senior Editors: Ted Raife, Phil Huber
Associate Editors: Dennis Perkins, Randall A. Maxey
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Art Director: Cary Christensen
Senior Graphic Designers: Bob Zimmerman, Jamie Downing,
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Senior Illustrators: David Kreyling, Dirk Ver Steeg
Harlan V. Clark, Peter J. Larson, David Kallemyn
Graphic Designer: Shelley Cronin
Graphic Design Intern: Megan Leafgreen
Creative Director: Ted Kralicek

Sr. Project Designers: Ken Munkel, Kent Welsh,
Chris Fitch, James R. Downing, Mike Donovan
Project Designer/Builder: John Doyle
Shop Craftsmen: Steve Curtis, Steve Johnson
Sr. Photographers: Crayola England, Dennis Kennedy

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Bookcases, Cabinets & Shelves is published by

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2 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES
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®
®
EDITOR’S NOTE
In this book, the editors of Woodsmith and
ShopNotes have put together a special col-
lection of their favorite bookcases, cabinets,
and shelves. Every page is filled with all
the photos, step-by-step illustrations, and
shop secrets you need to make building
these projects a snap.
Inside, you’ll find great storage projects
to fit just about any style and skill level —
from an elegant, heirloom bookcase with
several design options (cover) to an easy-
to-build country wall shelf (page 66). We’ve
even included a few countertop projects to
take care of special storage needs.
Plus, we’ve provided online bonus mate-
rial to make building all of these projects
faster, easier, and more accurate.
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BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES
bookcases
contents
6
3-in-1 Bookcase 8
We took one basic case design,
combined it with different details, and
came up with three timeless projects:
Craftsman, country, and traditional.
Classic Modular Bookcase 16

Start with a basic case. Then expand
the design by building additional units
and customizing them with options to
suit your storage needs.
Curved-Front Bookcase 26
The gently curving sides of this book-
case give it a sophisticated look. But
you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how
easily it goes together.

cabinets shelves racks & cases
32 60 80
Lighted Display Cabinet 34 Hanging Wall Shelves 62 Desktop Book Rack 82
Building an attractive display cabinet These easy-to-build shelves attach This small shelf can be built in short
doesn’t have to be a lot of work. The directly to a wall, so you can arrange order from just a few boards. It’s sure
simple construction of this project creates them to fill your needs. And they can be to make a big difference in the look
the perfect place to show off treasures. modified to create a handy wine server. and organization of your desktop.
Wide-Screen TV Cabinet 40 Country Wall Shelf 66 Barrister’s CD Cases 86

This design is as up-to-date as the To give this wall shelf a country look, The doors flip up and slide into the
gear you’ll fill it with. Clean lines and we used knotty pine, simple construc- cases — just like the doors of full-sized
straightforward joinery make it a great tion, and a beadboard back. It’s easy to barrister’s bookcases. But this project is
project to build for your home. add doors and make it a cabinet, too. modified for convenient CD storage.
Craftsman-Style Cabinet 50 Dovetailed Display Shelf 72 Countertop Wine Rack 92

Like many Craftsman projects, this The classic design and straightforward This simple, attractive plywood rack
cabinet looks good and is full of storage woodworking of this small display shelf lets you show off your collection of
space. Plus, the woodworking tech- add up to a great-looking project that wines and keep the bottles together
niques provide just the right challenge. isn’t a huge time commitment to build. and close at hand.
Five-Tier Display Tower 76

This project is hard to pass up. Build it
for its unique style or its handy storage
capabilities. Either way, your time in
the shop will be well spent.

Beautiful
Bookcases
Here are five different designs to suit just about
any room decor or any size library. You’ll find
that each project has special features that
present interesting woodworking challenges.
3-IN-1 BOOKCASE ...........................8
MODULAR BOOKCASE ..................16
CURVED-FRONT BOOKCASE .........26

3-in-1
XXXXXX XXXX XX
Bookcase
BOOKCASES
One basic design can take on

different looks to match your
taste and room decor.
A bookcase makes any room
more inviting. But finding a
bookcase to match your decor
can be a challenge. This project
solves that problem. It starts with
a basic case design. Then you
give it a distinct style by adding
a few finishing touches.
You’ll start by building the case
with simple joinery. It includes
the sides, top, bottom, and one Craftsman (lower right photo decorative back panels and doors,
fixed shelf in the center. and page 12), or traditional (main are easy to add and sure to bring
After the basic case is built, photo and page 14). character to your bookcase.
you’ll add design elements to cre- The treatments applied to the Whatever style suits you, you’ll
ate one of three styles: country top panels and base assemblies, appreciate the straightforward
(lower left photo and page 10), as well as additional features like construction and details.
Country-Style.
Beadboard, bun feet,
simple moldings,
and a painted finish
make a perfect
combination for a
country feel.
Craftsman-Style.
An overhanging top
supported by corbels
and gentle curves
on the face frame
and base create a
Craftsman look for
this bookcase.

NOTE: Back
panels differ
between styles.
See cutting
diagram on page
11 for details.
Building the
Basic Case
The case for each bookcase is
identical. So no matter which
style you choose, that’s the place
to start. It’s made up of two ply-
wood sides; a top, bottom, and
center shelf that are all the same
size; and a frame and panel back.
Later, a face frame will be added
to the front to cover the edges.
SIDES. I started by cutting the
sides to size. Once that’s done, I
cut the dadoes for the top, bot-
tom, and center shelves. I finished
up with a rabbet on the back edge
to hold the back panel (detail ‘a’).
The next step is to drill holes for
the adjustable shelves. It’s easier a.
to do this now while you can still
lay the workpieces side by side.
SHELVES. With the sides done,
you can cut the top, bottom,
and center shelves to size. These
pieces are cut slightly narrower
than the sides to make room for
the back. Cut rabbets on the ends
(detail ‘b’) to form a tongue to fit
in the dadoes in the sides. Dur-
ing glue-up, these pieces will sit
flush at the front, leaving a 3⁄4"-
deep recess at the back for the
back frame and panel assembly.
ASSEMBLY. Once you have the
b.
three shelves and two sides ready,
the assembly is pretty easy. The
shelves are glued into the dadoes c.
on the sides (detail ‘b’). Then you
can square up the case and apply
clamps at the joints.
FRAME & PANEL BACK. As I mentioned
earlier, the back of the bookcase
is built using frame and panel
NOTE:
construction (drawing at right). Size grooves to
Plywood panels fit into grooves match thickness
of plywood
cut in the rails and stiles, as you
can see in detail ‘c.’ (The panels
for the country-style bookcase (detail ‘a’). After assembling the to the case assembly and keeps
are made from beadboard.) frame and panels, you can glue it square and solid.
Before assembling the frame, I and nail the back in place. I also Now that the basic case is com-
cut the rabbet along the stiles to fastened the center rail to the plete, you can add the details to
mate with the rabbet on the sides fixed shelf. This adds strength create the style of your choice.
BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_008.in9 9 11/3/2009 10:22:31 AM

a. b.
Country Bookcase
With its beadboard back panel,
9
bun feet, and painted finish, this
country-style bookcase has a nos-
talgic look. Because it’s painted,
I chose to use less-expensive
poplar for the face frame,
edging, and trim pieces.
BUILD THE FACE FRAME. I used
pocket hole joinery to
assemble the face frame. For
more information about this
easy technique, take a look
at the box at the bottom of
the opposite page.
When you assemble
the face frame, make sure
that the center and bot-
tom rails are flush with
the center and bottom
shelves. The top rail will c.
sit flush with the top of the
case, as you can see in the draw-
ing at right. Once you have the
face frame assembled, you can
glue it to the front of the case.
The first part of the base is just
BASE a piece of plywood with bullnose
Before starting on the top, I edging attached. So that’s where I
turned the unit upside down and started. After cutting the panel to
worked on the base. size, I added 1⁄2"-thick hardwood
edging and mitered the corners.
At the router table, I routed a Now you can turn the book-
bullnose profile on the edging case upright and work on the top
(first drawing at left). And then panel. The weight of the case will
I located and drilled the dowel act as a clamp for the feet.
holes for the bun feet.
Once the assembly is attached TOP PANEL
to the case bottom, you’re ready The top panel on the case is even
to add the feet. This is easy since easier to build than the base. It’s
you’ve already drilled the holes just a piece of plywood with the
for the dowels. A little glue is all same bullnose edging added to
you need to fasten them in place. the front and sides that you used

on the base. To fasten it to the case,
MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM
a little glue and a few clamps are
A Case Side (2) 3⁄ ply. - 121⁄ x 54 M Face Frm. Top/Btm. Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 21⁄4 - 31
all you need. Just be sure that the 4 4
top doesn’t move out of position B Case Fixed Shelves (3) 3⁄4 ply. - 111⁄2 x 35 N Face Frm. Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 31
C Top Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 14 x 38 O Top Cove Trim (1) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 72
4 4 4
as you tighten the clamps. 3⁄ ply. - 13 x 36 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 72
D Bottom Panel (1) 4 P Top Panel Edging (1) 4 2
The final step is to add cove 3⁄ ply. - 105⁄ x 343⁄ 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 72
E Adj. Shelf (2) 4 8 8 Q Bottom Panel Edging (1) 4 2
molding around the top just F Back Upper Panel (1) 3⁄8 ply. - 311⁄2 x 191⁄4 R Adj. Shelf Edging (1) 3⁄ x 1 - 72
4
under the top panel (detail ‘a’). G Back Btm. Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 311⁄ x 201⁄
8 2 2
To make this molding, I used a H Back Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54
4 4 • (4) Bun Feet
cove molding bit in the router I Back Frm. Top Rail (1) 3⁄ x 33⁄ - 311⁄
4 4 2 • (8) 1⁄4" Shelf Pins
table. I routed the profile on a J Back Frm. Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 63⁄4 - 311⁄2 • (12) 11⁄4" Pocket Hole Screws
wide blank and then ripped it K Back Frm. Bottom Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 51⁄4 - 311⁄2 • (7) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
L Face Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54 • (4) 1"-dia. x 1" Dowels
free on the table saw. 4 2
ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. All that’s left to

complete the bookcase is to add
the two adjustable shelves. If you
look at detail ‘b,’ you’ll notice
that the trim on the front of them
is a little different than the bull-
nose trim you used earlier. But
the procedure is the same. You’ll
rout the profile after gluing the
hardwood edging to the shelf,
using a spacer under the shelf
while routing (right drawing at
the bottom of the opposite page).
FINISH. I decided to use a “two-
tone” finish for the bookcase. I
painted the beadboard panels a
lighter shade than the rest of the
case for a unique look.
How-To: Pocket Hole Basics

When assembling the face frames for collar on the drill bit controls the You can clamp the workpieces
these bookcases, I turned to pocket depth. It’s just a matter of clamping together a couple of ways. A con-
hole joinery. This fast technique is a the jig on the workpiece and drilling ventional clamp works fine for hold-
reliable way to join two workpieces the holes (Figure 1). ing the joint tight as you drive the
together without a lot of fuss. screws (Figure 2). Figure 3 shows a
The principle is simple. The pocket
hole jig allows you to drill a screw
2 clamp made specifically for the task.
One side of the clamp has a “peg”
hole at the correct angle, and a stop that fits inside a pocket hole.
1 3

a.
Craftsman Bookcase
Creating a Craftsman-style book-
case involves adding a couple
of simple details. The wide
overhanging top supported
b.
by corbels and gentle curves
gives it that classic look.
BUILD THE FACE FRAME. The face
frame for the front of the case
is cut from riftsawn oak. As
you see in detail ‘a,’ the top
rail has a gentle curve.
I used pocket hole joinery
to assemble the frame. The
only trick is to locate the
rails so they’re flush with
the top, bottom, and center the front. It’s attached to corbels After cutting the corbel blanks
shelves. Then you can glue with dowels. The drawings at the to rough size, I drilled the dowel
it to the case assembly. top of the opposite page show holes. Then you can shape them
how it’s put together. on the band saw. Finally, rout the
TOP PANEL CORBELS. I worked on the corbels chamfers on the edges before glu-
The top of the bookcase is a ply- first. This way, I could lay the fin- ing the corbels to the case.
wood panel with two breadboard ished top on the corbels to locate TOP PANEL. Like I said earlier, the
ends and hardwood edging on the dowel holes to fasten the top. top panel is plywood. After it’s cut

A Case Sides (2) 3⁄ ply. - 121⁄ x 54 W Top Panel Edging (2) 3⁄ x 1⁄4 - 35
4 4 4
B Case Fixed Shelves (3) 3⁄4 ply. - 111⁄2 x 35 X Top Panel Ends (2) 3⁄
4 x 4 - 141⁄2
C Top Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 14 x 35 Y Adj. Shelf Edging (1) 3⁄ x 1 - 72
4 4
D Bottom Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 13 x 36
4
E Adj. Shelf (2) 3⁄ ply. - 105⁄ x 343⁄ • (8) 1⁄4" Shelf Pins
4 8 8
F Back Upper Panel (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 311⁄2 x 191⁄4 • (20) 11⁄4" Pocket Hole Screws
G Back Bottom Panel (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 311⁄2 x 201⁄2 • (18) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
H Back Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54 • (4) 1⁄2"-dia. x 3⁄4" Dowels
4 4
I Back Frame Top Rail (1) ⁄4 x 33⁄4 - 311⁄2
3
J Back Frame Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 63⁄4 - 311⁄2

K Back Frame Bottom Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 51⁄4 - 311⁄2
L Face Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54
4 2
M Face Frame Top/Btm. Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 21⁄4 - 31
N Face Frame Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 31
O Bottom Panel Edging (1) 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 72
4 2
P Base Side Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 5
4 2
Q Base Front Apron (1) 3⁄ x 4 - 31
4
R Base Sides (2) 3⁄ x 5 - 121⁄
4 4
S Base Back Apron (1) 3⁄ x 5 - 341⁄
4 2
T Base Front Cleat (1) 3⁄ x 1 - 341⁄
4 2
U Base Back Cleat (1) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 341⁄
4 2 2
V Corbels (4) 3⁄ x 2 - 8
4

to size, cut slots on both ends to
accept tongues on the end pieces
(detail ‘b’ at right). Then attach
the front and back edging to hide
the slots, and trim it flush.
The panel ends are pretty
simple. Two rabbets form the
tongue that fits the groove in the
top panel. You’ll need to trim the
tongue back on the ends to fit
behind the edging, as shown in
detail ‘c.’ Now you can glue the
rails to the plywood panel. c.
Complete the case by attaching
the top. I used a dowel center for b.
locating the holes in the top. Then
glue and clamp the top to the cor-
bels, as shown in detail ‘a.’
a.
BASE ASSEMBLY
The case rests on a base that’s
assembled using pocket hole join- will finish it up (detail ‘b’ below). is added. Once the leg unit is com-
ery. A plywood panel and cleats Use a few screws to attach the plete, you can attach it to the base
hold the base to the shelf unit. bottom panel to the case. panel using cleats at the front and
BOTTOM PANEL. Start on the base LEG ASSEMBLY. From there, I moved back (details ‘a’ and ‘b’).
by cutting the bottom panel to on to the leg assembly. I started at ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. Finally, you
size. Then apply the mitered the front with the arched apron can build the adjustable shelves.
edging to the panel and trim it (detail ‘c’ below) and side stiles. I added hardwood edging to the
flush. A small chamfer routed on The sides are cut and attached to front edge for strength and style.
the top and bottom of the edging the front piece, and then the back Then it’s time to apply the finish.
a.
b.
c.

b.
a.
c.
Traditional Bookcase
For a more refined look, the
traditional-style bookcase is the panel, you can shape it on the
built from cherry plywood router table in two passes, as you
and hardwood. Bracket feet, see in detail ‘c’ and the upper left
molded top edging, and drawings. Now you can attach
raised-panel doors add to the panel to the bottom of the
the overall appeal. case and start on the legs.
FACE FRAME. The face frame ASSEMBLE THE LEGS. Although the
for this style of bookcase is legs are purchased, a few modi-
pretty straightforward. You BASE fications are needed. You’ll need
just need to position the Look at the drawing above to see to cut an additional brace for each
rails so they’re flush with how the base is assembled. While back leg, as shown in the drawing
the three fixed shelves. it may look like there are a lot of above, and attach it with pocket
The pieces are cut to small parts, it’s not difficult. The screws. I also made corner braces
size then assembled with base starts with a plywood panel. for all four legs (detail ‘b’). Once
pocket hole joinery. I Then purchased legs are added the legs are assembled, attach
routed a stopped chamfer (see Sources on page 98). them to the base with screws
on the outside edge of the The first step is to cut the ply- through the corner braces.
stiles (detail ‘a’ above). With wood panel to size and cut the TOP PANEL. The top panel is made
that done, go ahead and glue tongues for the edge molding. just like the bottom panel and
the face frame to the case. After gluing the molding blank to uses the same molded edging.

a. d.
b.
c.
RAISED-PANEL DOORS no-mortise hinges. At that point,

I built the doors using stub tenon you can locate and install the
and groove joinery (detail ‘a’ magnet block and the door stop,
After the top is completed, you above). Cut the rails and stiles to as shown in the drawing above.
can glue it to the case. Cove final size, then work on the joinery The last step is to install the mag-
molding adds the finishing touch before making the panels. net washer on the door frame to
(detail ‘c’ on the opposite page). RAISED PANELS. To make the raised align with the magnet block.
ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. Now you can panels, I used a vertical raised As you can see, turning a basic
add the adjustable shelves. Like panel bit in a router table. bookcase into a classic piece of
before, you’ll rout the same profile After the doors are assembled, furniture is all in the details — no
on the edging (detail ‘c’ above). go ahead and install them using matter what the style.

A Case Sides (2) 3⁄ ply. - 121⁄ x 54
4 4 U Magnet Block (1) 3⁄ x 13⁄ - 5
4 4 • (13) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
B Case Fixed Shelves (3) 3⁄4 ply. - 111⁄2 x 35 V Door Stop (1) 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 3
4 2 • (2) 2" No-Mortise Hinges
C Top Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 133⁄ x 363⁄
4 8 4 W Adj. Shelf Edging (2) 3⁄ x 5⁄ - 343⁄
4 8 8 • (2) 11⁄4" Bronzed Knobs
D Bottom Panel (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 121⁄2 x 347⁄8 X Leg Brace (2) 3⁄ x 41⁄ - 31⁄
4 2 2 • (2) 1⁄2"-dia. Rare-Earth Magnets
E Adj. Shelf (2) 3⁄ ply. - 103⁄ x 343⁄
4 4 8 Y Corner Brace (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 31⁄
4 2 2 • (2) #6 x 1⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
F Back Upper Panel (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 311⁄2 x 191⁄4 • (8) Shelf Pins • (2) 1⁄4" Washers
G Back Bottom Panel (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 311⁄2 x 201⁄2 • (12) 11⁄4" Pocket Screws • (2) Front Leg Assemblies
H Back Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54 • (2) Back Legs
4 4
I Back Frame Top Rail (1) ⁄4 x 33⁄4 - 311⁄2
3
J Back Frame Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 63⁄4 - 311⁄2

K Back Frame Bottom Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 51⁄4 - 311⁄2
L Face Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 54
4 2
M Face Frm Top/Btm. Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 21⁄4 - 31
N Face Frm Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 31
O Top Panel Edging (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 72
4 2
P Cove Trim (1) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 72
4 4
Q Bottom Panel Edging (1) 3⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 72
R Door Stiles (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 247⁄
4 2 8
S Door Rails (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 113⁄
4 2 16
T Door Panels (2) 5⁄ x 111⁄ - 205⁄
8 8 8

Classic
XXXXXX XXXX XX
Modular
BOOKCASES
Bookcase
Classic looks, functionality,
and plenty of custom options
make this bookcase right at
home in any setting.
I’ve built a lot of bookcases — usually
designed for a specific space and with an
idea in mind about how many books and
collectibles it should hold. This time, I
wanted something that could complement
any room and be a bit more flexible.
That’s the beauty of this bookcase — you
can customize it for any space. The modu-
lar design allows you to build a single basic
case, or make two or more and arrange
them to hold your entire library. You can
stack cases one on top of another, as shown
in the photo at left. Or, since the molding
on the sides is flush with the case, you can
place them side by side.
You’ll appreciate the straightforward
construction. Each case is built from a sheet
of cabinet-grade plywood and trimmed
with hardwood edging. (I used oak.) And
the seemingly complex crown molding on
the top and base is just stacked individual
pieces with simple routed profiles.
To top it all off, we’ve included the
option of adding doors and drawers to take
the design one step further. The dovetailed
drawers feature a frame-and-panel false
front. The doors incorporate a glass panel
housed in a solid frame that’s built with
mortise and tenon joinery. These details
combine to give you a bookcase that will
look right at home in any setting.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS NOTE: Top and base are attached
to case with quick-connect
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Top
bolts and threaded inserts
47!/2" W x 14#/4" D x 76" H
Case is assembled
with dado joints
for plenty of strength
Hardwood facing
on the sides gives
the bookcase a
frame-and-panel
appearance
NOTE: Each
individual case
is made from Hardwood
a single sheet face frame
of cabinet- Quarter-round covers
grade plywood molding fits plywood
inside the edges
hardwood
frame
NOTE: Upper
and lower
NOTE: For more cases attach
design options, turn with quick-
to page 22 connect
bolts
Adjustable shelves
have hardwood
edging to
prevent sagging
Cabinet leveler
bracket and foot
help compensate
for uneven
floors
Secondary wood
(poplar) used for
base and top
assemblies
Hardwood top rail

and face rails have
simple routed profiles
(cove and roundover)
to create look of
solid molding
End pieces are

cut to match
front profile

a.
b.
c.
Building the Basic Case

The flexibility of this bookcase This way, you can use the same
means you can add to it any time. rip fence setting to cut each piece
But if you know you’re going to to an identical width.
need several cases, you’ll find it’s Next, drill holes for the shelf
a lot easier to build them at the pins in the sides. The drawing at
same time. No matter how many right shows the locations.
you build and arrange, they all JOINERY. I used dado joints for
start with the case. the cases because they’re not only
CONSTRUCTION. As you see in the very strong and easy to make, but
drawing above, each case is made they also ensure proper align- inexpensive poplar. Glue them
up of two smaller sections glued ment of the assembly. To cut the flush to the outside edges of the
together side by side. Dadoes in dadoes, I turned to the table saw case top and bottom (details ‘a’
the sides hold the top and bot- and a dado blade set to match and ‘b’). After that‘s done, you can
tom. And spacers installed on the the thickness of the plywood. glue the two sections together.
top and bottom of each section Then just assemble the cases with ADD THE BACK. Now you’re ready
serve as anchor points for stack- glue. You want to make sure that to screw on the 1⁄4" plywood back
ing or adding tops and bases. they’re square during assembly. panel that spans both sections.
CASE PIECES. Start by cutting the SPACERS. Since the spacers won’t Don’t worry, the exposed ply-
sides, top, and bottom to width be visible once the case is fully wood edges will be covered later
at the same time on the table saw. assembled, I made them out of when you add the side frames.

FRAMING THE CABINET joint before installing them on case, you can start attaching the
With the case assembled, you can the case. It would have been dif- quarter-round molding to the
add hardwood frames. You’ll see ficult to clamp them properly inside of the frame. I’ve found
in the drawings below that the otherwise. I started by cutting the best way to add molding is
face frames cover the plywood both pieces to size. Then, using just to take it one piece at a time, c.
edges on the front of the case, and a dado blade on the table saw, mitering and attaching each piece
the side frames add a “frame-and- cut the deep rabbet on the front individually for a perfect fit.
panel” look to the ends. The front piece. Now it’s a simple assem- Next, add the remaining face
and side frames are connected by bly with glue and plenty of room frame pieces to the front of the
a unique corner assembly that’s to clamp the pieces together. case, starting with the upper and
the starting point for the trim. FITTING THE FRAME. With the corners lower rails, then the center stile.
CORNERS. Detail ‘b’ highlights the assembled, just glue them in posi- ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. The shelves
corner connection, showing how tion. Then you can move on to complete the case, and they’re
the front frame is attached to the completing the rest of the frame. easy to make, too. First, cut out the
side frame with a rabbet joint. I I started by adding the rest of the plywood shelf pieces, and rabbet
built these corners first so I could pieces to the sides. Once you’ve the front edge of each piece. Then
be sure to get a good, solid glue glued the other trim pieces to the just cut a groove in the edging
pieces to match the tongue cre-
a. ated by the rabbet (detail ‘d’), and
glue the pieces together.
b.
d.

a.
b.
c. d.
Decorative Base & Top

With the basic cases assembled
and the frames installed, you’re A STURDY BASE TOP RAILS. After you’ve formed
ready to move on to making the As you can see in the drawing a stable base, it’s time to add the
decorative base and top. The above, there are three cross sup- top rails that allow you to attach
built-up front moldings and ports that tie the base assembly it to the case. These rails fit flush
matching side pieces add an ele- together. To make the notches on with the top of the cross supports
gant profile to the bookcase. the front and back of each sup- to provide a solid platform. You’ll
Assembling the base and top port, I used the table saw with want to take note of a couple of
isn’t too complicated either. In a dado blade set to a height that things about these pieces.
fact, they’re just about mirror matches the thickness of the rail First, the front top rail is oak,
images of each other. Except for a stock. Using an auxiliary fence and it has a rounded profile (detail
few minor size changes, the only on the miter gauge to back up the ‘c’). I used a roundover bit at the
Bolt & Insert. real difference is that the top adds cuts prevents tearout. router table to add that detail
!/4"-20 threaded a panel with oak edging. How- FRONT & BACK RAILS. The next step before attaching it to the base.
inserts and ever, the construction method is is to add the front and back rails You’ll also want to note the
quick-connect the same for both of these pieces. that connect the cross supports. holes in the top rails for the quick-
bolts attach the And once again, I used poplar Since these parts won’t be visible connect bolts. This construction
base and top to as a secondary wood for all the when the piece is complete, you method lets you detach the base
the case. parts that weren’t visible. can just attach them with screws. and reconfigure the bookcase at

a later date. The threaded inserts The ends are cut to match the the individual pieces. You’ll also
fit into the spacers on the case, combined profile of the top and notice that the threaded inserts
and the quick-connect bolts fit face rails. You can cut the match- are installed in the top rather
through a shank hole drilled ing shape at the band saw and than the case, and the bolts fit in
through the top rails of the base. sand it smooth. Then attach the counterbored holes on the inside
You just need to drill the holes face and ends from the inside of of the case (detail ‘b’). Other than
for the inserts and bolts according the base using glue and screws. that, the only major difference is
to the layout in detail ‘d.’ Then LEVELER BRACKETS. The last step is the addition of the top panel.
attach the top rails to the cross to add the leveler brackets to the TOP PANEL. The top panel is
supports with glue and screws. base. These allow you to adjust plywood with hardwood edging.
FACE RAIL & ENDS. With the structure the position of the bookcase to The edging adds another element
of the base complete, you’re ready compensate for floors that may to the profile of the molding. To
to move on to the hardwood face not be completely level. Detail ‘b’ make the top, start by cutting the
and ends. Both of these pieces on the opposite page shows how plywood panel. Then it’s just a
will need a little work before you these fit on the inside of the base. matter of adding the hardwood
can add them to the base. trim to the edges and gluing the
The top edge of the face rail THE MATCHING TOP frame to the top assembly.
has a decorative cove profile that As I mentioned earlier, the top is That completes the bookcase.
I made at the router table. You’ll built the same way as the base. But the next few pages show you
want to make this cut in two shal- But keep in mind there’s a slight how to customize it by adding
low passes to avoid burn marks. difference in the dimensions of doors and drawers to the design.
a.
b.
d.
c.

Optional
Drawers & Doors
Adding doors and drawers to the mounted on runners attached to
bookcase dramatically changes a removable divider. This means
its look. Just take a look at the the drawer unit can be added
photo at left to see for yourself. later, even after you’ve com-
In addition to providing some pleted the bookshelf.
closed storage, they really accent The doors are straightforward
the frame-and-panel look of the frame and panel construction. As
sides. Another nice thing about you can see, I chose to use glass
this design is that the drawers are instead of a wood panel. Retainer
clips hold the glass in place and
make it easier to replace in case
of an accident. You’ll also like
the no-mortise hinges that save
time when installing the doors.
Matching drawer and door pulls
complete the look. For more
information on the hardware
used, refer to Sources on page 98.
a.
b.
Adding Drawers
Part of what makes the drawers The only big difference is you’ll strip glued behind the divider
so interesting is the way they’re need to notch the sides to accept edging (detail ‘a’). This piece pro-
supported. They slide on a pair the shelf supports, as shown in vides the doors with a solid stop.
of hardwood runners attached to detail ‘a.’ Then it’s just a matter
a removable divider, as shown in of cutting out the runners and DOVETAILED DRAWERS
the drawing above. A stop for the fastening them to the shelves. An You’re ready to move on to the
doors is also incorporated into easy way to make the runners is drawers. As you see in the draw-
the divider assembly (detail ‘a’). shown on the opposite page. ings on the opposite page, they’re
DIVIDER ASSEMBLY. Like the shelves DOOR STOP. If you decide to add dovetailed boxes with false fronts.
in the bookcase, the drawer divid- the doors, you’ll need to include The frame-and-panel front has
ers are just plywood panels the door stop with the divider quarter-round molding, to match
trimmed with hardwood edging. assembly. It’s simply a hardwood the sides of the bookcase.
BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_022.indd 22 10/7/2011 3:01:00 PM

NOTE: Drawer
molding is
#/8" x #/8"
Ply.
a. b. c.
DOVETAILED DRAWER BOX. To cut the on the inside of the frame pieces DRAWER PULL & STOP. To finish up
half-blind dovetails, use a router first. Then you can raise the blade the drawer, add a pull and a stop.
and a dovetail jig. And once and use the miter gauge to sup- The drawer stop is just a piece of
again, I used inexpensive poplar port the cut forming the tongue hardwood attached to the inside
for the drawer boxes since they’ll on the end of each rail. of the case (detail ‘a’). Turning
be covered by the false fronts. MOLDING. Use the same technique the stop to fit through the slot
After cutting the joinery, it’s for adding the molding as you in the drawer back allows you
back to the table saw to cut the did on the side panels. Fit each to remove the drawer. Now you
groove for the 1⁄4" plywood bot- piece individually, making sure can attach the drawer pull with
tom. While there, it’s also a good the miters are tight throughout. machine screws from the inside.
time to cut a notch for the drawer
stop on the drawer back. Then
glue up the drawers, and add
bumpers on the back corners.
How-To: Cutting Drawer Runners
FALSE FRONT. Although the drawer
fronts look a lot like the side
panels of the bookcase, they’re
actually built a little differently.
They incorporate a 1⁄4" plywood
panel in a rabbet on the rails and
stiles, as shown in detail ‘b.’ A
tongue cut on the rails also fits in
the rabbet on the stiles, keeping
the joinery simple.
I cut the rabbets at the table Cut a Wide Groove. With a dado blade set Separate the Pieces. Set the rip fence and
saw using a dado blade and an to full width, cut the groove. Then, turn the cut the runners to width. Sanding and some
auxiliary fence. You’ll find it stock end-for-end and repeat the cut. wax will make the drawers run smoothly.
works best to cut the long rabbet

a.
refer to the
Online Extras
b.
c.
d.
Glass Doors With the drawers done, all that’s MORTISE & TENON JOINERY. It’s no Simply attach them as shown
needed to complete the bookcase secret that a pane of glass is more in detail ‘d.’ But the no-mortise
are the glass panel doors. delicate than a wood panel. For hinges can be tricky.
PROFILED EDGES. Like the drawers, that reason, it’s important to build To align the hinges, place the
the doors feature a quarter-round a frame that provides as much door in the frame and shim it
profile to match the sides (detail support as possible. That’s why I into position with thin spacers. (I
‘a’). But here, I did things a little used mortise and tenon joinery. often stack a few playing cards to
GO differently. Rather than applying To get started, you’ll need to get the position just right.) Then,
Online
2 a molding, I routed the profile on
the rails and stiles. This creates a
square the stock on the ends by
cutting back the rounded profile
mark the hinge location on the
door and frame. Now attach the
Extras more stable door and provides at the table saw. For details on hinge to the door and then to the
better support for the glass panel. making this joint and the miters, case at the location you marked.
To find out You’ll need to cut the profile go to WoodsmithSpecials.com. The key is to use a self-centering
how to make
molded and the rabbet for the glass before Once the joinery is done, glue bit to drill the pilot holes and
mortise and making any of the joinery cuts. up the doors. Then secure the keep the hinge on the mark.
tenon doors,
go to: That means a trip to the router glass using plastic retainer clips. No matter what options you
WoodsmithSpecials.com table. I used a 3⁄8" roundover bit to ADD HARDWARE. Now you just need choose, this modular bookcase
form the quarter-round molding to attach the doors. The magnetic can be arranged to suit any loca-
profile. Then I just cut the rabbet catches, strike plates, and door tion. It’s sure to be a piece that
on the opposite side. knobs are pretty straightforward. will provide years of service.

BASIC CABINET MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM
A Case Sides (4) 3⁄ ply. - 113⁄ x 34 N Shelf Panel (4) 3⁄ ply. - 111⁄ x 213⁄ AA Top Ends (2) 11⁄2 x 23⁄4 - 143⁄8
4 4 4 8 8
B Case Top/Bottom (4) 3⁄4 ply. - 113⁄4 x 22 O Shelf Edging (4) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 213⁄
4 2 8 BB Top Panels (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 113⁄4 x 441⁄2
C Front Spacers (4) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 211⁄ P Base Cross Supports (3) 3⁄4 x 41⁄2 - 113⁄4 CC Front/Back Edging (2) 3⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 441⁄2
4 2 2
D Back Spacers (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 211⁄ Q Base Front/Back Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 33⁄4 - 441⁄2 DD Side Edging (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 143⁄
4 4 2 4 2 4
E Case Back (1) 1⁄ ply. - 34 x 46 R Base Back Top Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 21⁄2 - 441⁄2
4
F Front Frame Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 34 S Base Front Top Rail (1) 3⁄ x 3 - 441⁄ • (16) 1⁄4" Shelf Supports
4 2 4 2
G Side Front Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 23⁄ - 34 T Base Face Rail (1) 3⁄ x 33⁄ - 441⁄ • (4) Cabinet Leveler Brackets
4 8 4 4 2
H Side Back Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 34 U Base Ends (2) 11⁄2 x 41⁄2 - 143⁄8 • (4) Cabinet Leveler Feet
4 2
I Side Rails (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 73⁄
4 2 4 V Top Cross Supports (3) 3⁄4 x 23⁄4 - 113⁄4 • (16) 1⁄4" - 20 Threaded Inserts
J Side Molding Horz. (4) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 73⁄
2 2 4 W Top Front/Back Rails (2) 3⁄ x 2 - 441⁄
4 2 • (8) 1⁄4" - 20 x 30mm Bolts
K Side Molding Vert. (4) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 29
2 2 X Top Back Bottom Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 21⁄2 - 441⁄2 • (8) 1⁄4" - 20 x 50mm Bolts
L Face Rails (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 441⁄ Y Top Front Bottom Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 3 - 441⁄2 • (54) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
4 2 2
M Face Center Stile (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 31 Z Top Face Rail (1) 3⁄ x 2 - 441⁄ • (16) #6 x 1⁄2" Fh Woodscrews (Back)
4 2 4 2
OPTIONAL DOOR & DRAWER MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM

A Divider Panels (2) 3⁄ ply. - 12 x 211⁄
4 2 J Drwr. Front Panels (2) 1⁄4 ply. - 35⁄8 x 185⁄8 • (2) 11⁄4" Mushroom Knobs
B Divider Edging (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 211⁄ K Drwr. Molding Horz. (4) 3⁄8 x 3⁄8 - 177⁄8 • (2 pr.) No-Mortise Hinges
4 2 2
C Door Stops (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 211⁄ L Drwr. Molding Vert. (24) 3⁄8 x 3⁄8 - 27⁄8 • (20) Plastic Retainer Clips
2 2
D Shelf Runners (4) 3⁄ x 1 - 113⁄ M Drawer Catches (2) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 2 • (4) Magnetic Catches
4 4 8 4
E Drawer Front/Back (4) 1⁄ x 61⁄ - 21 N Door Rails (4) 3 ⁄4 x 21⁄8 - 197⁄8 • (24) #4 x 1⁄2" Fh Ant. Brass Screws
2 8
F Drawer Sides (4) 1⁄ x 61⁄ - 111⁄ O Door Stiles (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 227⁄ • (8) #4 x 1⁄2" Ph Ant. Brass Screws
2 8 4 4 8 8
G Drawer Bottoms (2) 1⁄4 ply. - 11 x 201⁄2 • (20) #5 x 1⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
H Drawer Front Stiles (4) 3⁄ x 13⁄ - 63⁄ • (4) Stem Bumper Glides • (16) #6 x 1⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
4 4 8
I Drawer Front Rails (4) 3 ⁄4 x 13⁄4 - 185⁄8 • (2) Bin Pulls w/Screws • (2) 173⁄4" x 197⁄8" Glass Panels
Also need:
48" x 48" sheet of
#/4" oak plywood

Curved-
Front
XXXXXX XXXX XX
Bookcase
BOOKCASES
A simple design that

offers a lot of storage in
just a little space.
As much as I enjoy a challenge, I
have to admit that every now and
then it’s nice to build a simple,
straightforward project. And with
its clean lines and basic design,
that’s exactly what this bookcase is.
The construction is also straight-
forward. There’s no complicated
joinery to deal with because the
bookcase is built with quick-connect
fasteners. And it’s made almost
entirely out of plywood, so you
don’t have to spend a lot of time
gluing up solid-wood panels.
But in spite of its simplicity,
this project will still throw you a
curve — two curves, in fact. If you
look at the photo, you’ll see that the
GO sides of the bookcase have a grace-
Online
2 ful curve along the front edge.
While these curves add visual
Extras appeal, they create a challenge
when it comes to edging the ply-
For details on wood. Here again, the solution is
the drilling
jig for quick- simple — flexible, iron-on edge
connect banding (photo below).
fasteners,
go to:
WoodsmithSpecials.com
Edge Banding.
Iron-on edge
banding is easy to
apply, even to the
curved edges of
the bookcase sides
(see page 31).

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 27" W x 14#/4" D x 59!/2" H
Sides, shelves,
Top back panel is and top back
Iron-on edge banding same thickness as sides panel are cut
covers plywood edges, to give project the Spacer prevents from one
see page 31 look of solid wood damage to sheet of
edge banding plywood
Back panel
is made
from !/4"
plywood
Adjustable shelves
Main back panel have five different
trapped in grooves positions
Plywood
between top and panels simplify
bottom shelves construction
and sides
Bookcase
has three
fixed shelves
Adjustable
shelves rest
on shelf pins
Edge banding provides

protection to bottom
Two shelves edges of bookcase
are adjustable
SIDE SECTION VIEW
Quick-connect Minifix Fastener

Toe kick provides support cam pulls side
hardware allows and finished look
bookcase to be tight to
disassembled shelf edge
FRONT SECTION VIEW

UPPER
26 FIXED
SHELF
9 F
B
TOP BACK PANEL !/4" Ply.
a. !/4 !/4
b. F
!/2
A
#/4 !/4
B
25!/2 SIDE !/2
!/4 SIDE
11!/2 A
!/2 SECTION
F SIDE VIEW G
26
!/4
A 47!/2 c. !/4 G d.
SIDE
SECTION
SIDE D !/4 VIEW
D G
MIDDLE
59!/2 FIXED C !/4" Ply. #/4
SHELF !/2 E
C
25!/2 Middle shelf

butts against
SIDE SECTION VIEW back panel
12
G
BACK
PANEL
Making the Case & Shelves
If you take a look at trim the sides to their final shape.
LOWER
D FIXED the main drawing at The box below shows how the
SHELF
TOE KICK left, you’ll notice that template is made and put to use.
25!/2 E the bookcase has two THE SIDES. Once the template is
sides that are held together done, lay it on one of the inside
13!/4 by three fixed shelves. The faces of the bookcase sides. I used
first step is to make the sides. double-sided tape to hold the
25!/2
NOTE: Parts And that starts with a template. template in place while tracing
are #/4" plywood. THE TEMPLATE. Making the tem- the curve and drilling the holes
Back panel 2!/4
is !/4" plywood plate accomplishes three things. for the shelf hardware (details ‘a’
First, it makes locating the shelf and ‘b’ below). Simply repeat the
11 holes in the sides easier and more process for the other side piece.
TEMPLATE Place nail precise. Second, the outline of the CUTTING THE GROOVE. After remov-
FOR CASE here
SIDES curved front can simply be traced ing the template, turn your
10!/2 onto the sides. Finally, the tem- attention to the groove that runs
plate can be used as a guide to along the back edge of each side.
8mm-dia.
holes
2!/4
!/4"-dia.
holes for
shelf pins
How-To: Make & Use the Template
THIRD: Draw Fence
FIRST: Place nails at
8mm-dia.
holes location points on
line along guide Brad-
point
a. END VIEW
Drill !/4"-
59!/2 hardboard template dia. hole
50!/8 bit
Template #/8 A
10!/2
37#/4 Side Template
14#/4 blank
Drill 8mm hole
26!/4 Nail b. for fixed shelf
SECOND: Bend hardware
1#/4 hardboard
18!/2 guide around nails !%/32 A
13&/8 8mm-dia. END VIEW

holes
2#/8
Lay Out Curve. Use a narrow strip of Drill Shelf Holes. Connector hardware
11!/4 hardboard and nails to lay out the book- and shelf pins require two different sized
14 Nail case’s curve on the template. holes drilled at different depths.
15

These grooves will hold the back
panel. Because the 1⁄4" plywood
The first thing to do here is drill
the holes for the connector hard-
How-To: Shelf Holes
used for the back panel is closer ware. Each connector is made up Back edge of shelf 15mm
is set against Forstner
to 3⁄16" thick, I cut the groove by of two parts: a cam and a pin. The jig stop bit
making two passes on my table pin is installed into the side of the
Bottom face
saw to get a snug fit. bookcase, while the cam fits into of shelf
CUTTING THE CURVE. At this point, all a hole in the shelf.
that’s left to complete the sides is The tricky part is getting the
to cut the curved shape. You can holes in the shelves aligned with
a.
D
see how to finish up the curve in the holes in the sides of the book- D !&/32 LOWER
FIXED SHELF
the two drawings below. case. To help, use a jig like the one
END
THE SHELVES. Now it’s time to shown in the box at right. Instruc- SECTION VIEW
focus on the shelves. As I said tions for making this jig are
before, the top, bottom, and provided in the Online Extras. Drilling the Cam Holes. Drill the holes for the cams
middle shelves are fixed. They TOE KICK & TOP PANEL. To provide from the bottom side of the shelves. Take care so you
hold the sides together with some extra support and give the don’t drill through the shelves (detail ‘a’).
quick-connect hardware. The bookcase a more finished look,
NOTE: Shelf is rotated
other two shelves are adjustable you can add a toe kick to the bot- 180° and jig is flipped Back edge
of shelf is
and rest on shelf pins. (Sources tom shelf and a back panel to the end for end
set against
are provided on page 98.) top. Both of these are rabbeted jig stop
After cutting the shelves to size to fit into grooves (see details ‘a’
(remember that the fixed shelves and ‘c’ on the opposite page). The
are three different widths), set the panel is “trapped” in the grooves Bottom face
adjustable shelves aside for now in the sides, while the toe kick of shelf
LOWER
while you continue working on is glued in the groove on the D FIXED SHELF
the three fixed shelves. bottom side of the bottom shelf. Support block
CUTTING THE GROOVES. I started by TOP PANEL NOTCHES. You’ll notice in Rotate & Flip. Rotate the shelf and flip the jig to drill
taking the upper and lower fixed detail ‘a’ (top of opposite page) the cam holes in the back of the shelves. You can use
shelves over to my table saw. that the top panel has notches in a support block to keep the shelf level.
These shelves need grooves to its upper corners. The notches fit
hold the 1⁄4" plywood for the back around blocks that will be added Edge hole
aligns with
panel, as shown in details ‘b’ and to the grooves during assembly Jig cam hole
‘c’ on the opposite page. to protect the edge banding.
Once the grooves are cut, take With all this done, the next step
these two shelves and the mid- will be to add the edging and put
dle shelf over to the drill press. the bookcase together.
a. TOP SECTION
VIEW
Drill straight
into cam hole
A Flush-trim front
SIDE profile using
template as Drilling the Connector Holes. Line up the jig with the
guide
Waste
cam holes in order to drill the holes for the connectors
Side
in the edges of the shelves.
Use #/4" x #/4"

spacer block
a. Layout line a. between back
edge of shelf
and jig stop
!/2"
Rough cut to Side flush-trim C
Support
waste side of bit MIDDLE FIXED block
layout line SHELF
END
TOP VIEW Template VIEW
Rough Cut Profile on Sides. Stay Trim it Up. Use a router, a flush-trim
to the waste side of the layout line bit, and the template to smooth
when rough-cutting the curve. the curves in the bookcase sides. Middle Fixed Cam Holes. Add a spacer before you
begin to drill the holes in the middle shelf. This accounts
for the back panel that it butts up against.

&/8"-wide
edge banding
I
I UPPER FILLER
BLOCK
Top back
panel
(!/4 x !/4 - !/2) a. I
b. Back panel
Case
side
Upper Groove for
back back panel
Upper filler block

is glued in place
before applying J Case
H
ADJUSTABLE
SHELF edge banding side
!/4"-dia.
Side
spoon type
shelf pins
c. Connector
insert nut Connector cam
Middle fixed
shelf Connector bolt
Side
Fixed
25#/8 shelf
H
Case
ADJUSTABLE side FRONT SECTION VIEW
12 SHELF
J J
LOWER FILLER
BLOCK would with hardwood cams are tightened, they pull the
(!/4 x !/4 - 2!/2)
edging, especially on the shelves in tight (detail ‘c’ above).
Lower fixed curved sides. The next page gives BACK PANEL. Now, slide the back
shelf
step-by-step instructions on how panel into the grooves in the
to apply the edge banding. top and bottom shelves and the
&/8"-wide edge banding Once you’ve finished with one bookcase side. Then you can
on all shelf fronts and
bottom case edges the edge banding, the bookcase attach the other bookcase side.
#/4" Minifix is ready to be assembled. The FINAL DETAILS. All that’s left for
fastener
main drawing above shows how you to do is to slide the top back
everything goes together. panel and glue filler blocks into
Complete the Bookcase INSTALL HARDWARE. Begin to assem-
ble the bookcase by installing
the grooves in the sides (details
‘a’ and ‘b’). These blocks will pro-
Before you start to assemble the the cams and bolts in the fixed vide the support needed for the
bookcase, you’ll need to apply shelves and case sides. Then edging that covers the grooves.
the edge banding to all the slide each fixed shelf onto the With the bookcase assembled,
exposed plywood edges. You’ll connector bolts in one bookcase you’ve added a lot of extra
get cleaner results than you side and tighten the cams. As the storage with just a little effort.

3⁄ ply. - 143⁄ x 591⁄ #/4"x 48"- 96" Cherry Plywood
A Case Sides (2) 4 4 2
B Upper Fixed Shelf (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 111⁄2 x 251⁄2
C Middle Fixed Shelf (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 12 x 251⁄2 A D
D Lower Fixed Shelf (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 131⁄4 x 251⁄2 F
E Toe Kick (1) 3⁄ ply. - 21⁄ x 251⁄
4 4 2
F Top Back Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 26 x 9
4
1⁄ ply. - 26 x 471⁄ A B
G Back Panel (1) 4 2
H Adj. Shelves (2) 3⁄ ply. - 12 x 253⁄
4 8
I Upper Filler Blocks (2) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 1⁄
4 4 2
J Lower Filler Blocks (2) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 2 C H H
4 4
• (12) 3⁄4" Minifix Fasteners E

• (8) 1⁄4" Spoon Shelf Pins
• (4) 7⁄8" Edge Banding (8 ft. rolls) ALSO NEEDED: One 48" x 48" sheet !/4" cherry plywood for back panel
One !/4" x !/4" - 6" rgh. cherry for filler blocks

Iron-On Edge Banding
Instead of edging the plywood panels
of the bookcase with strips of hard-
wood, I decided to use iron-on edge
banding. Edge banding is easy to apply,
especially on curved edges like the sides
of the bookcase. And since it’s made from
solid wood, it blends in perfectly with the project. Edging Supplies.
The edge banding is just a long, narrow strip of 1⁄32"- The only items you
thick veneer. (It’s available in a few different widths need to apply edge
and types of wood, refer to the Sources on page 98.) banding are an iron,
One side of the edge banding is covered with a heat- a trimming tool,
activated glue. The only thing you have to do to apply and some wood filler.
it is run a hot iron over it. It’s really that simple, but
there are a few details to be aware of.
Prep Work. Before you begin to apply the edging, it’s
important to fill any voids in the edge of the plywood (Photo
1). This prevents gaps from telegraphing through the band-
ing and makes the banding less likely to peel away or chip.
Iron On. After sanding the filler smooth, you can apply
the edging. All you need is an ordinary clothes iron. Set the
iron on high heat (cotton) and place a piece of kraft paper
over the banding to prevent scorching. Then simply iron the
banding onto the edge of the plywood (Photo 2).
I find that I get the best results by ironing a short sec-
tion of banding at a time. Fifteen to 30 seconds is usually
enough to melt the glue so the banding will adhere.
Trim. An inexpensive edging trimmer is used to trim the
edge banding flush with the sides of the panel (Photo 3).
Once that’s done, you can cut off the ends of the banding To get smooth results, be sure to fill any gaps or voids
with a utility knife. If you’re covering more than one edge,
make sure to overlap the banding at the ends.
1 in the edge of the plywood before applying the edge
banding. After the filler dries, sand it smooth.
Working in short sections, iron the edge banding onto Using the trimming tool, trim the edging flush with both
2 the edge of the plywood. A sheet of kraft paper prevents
the iron from scorching the banding.
3 faces of the plywood. You can trim the ends of the edge
banding with a utility knife. Then sand all the edges smooth.


Classic
Cabinets
Whether you need storage and display space
or a great piece of furniture to serve as a focal
point, each of these cabinets has an easy-to-
build design that is guaranteed to fill the bill.
LIGHTED DISPLAY CABINET ...........34
WIDE-SCREEN TV CABINET............40
CRAFTSMAN-STYLE CABINET ........50
www.WoodsmithSpecials.com 33

XXXXXX XXXX XX
CABINETS
Lighted
Deck copy. Display Cabinet
Stylish glass doors and interior lighting put the contents on display, but
the design and construction of this cabinet hold a few surprises.
This lighted display cabinet can be the perfect for its construction. You might be surprised to
accent piece for any room in the house. The beveled learn that this project relies on simple, but strong
glass doors and shelf allow you to display your col- pocket-hole joinery. This means it’s quick and easy
lectibles to full advantage. And the small scale of to build. And the expensive-looking wood is sim-
the cabinet means it will fit in almost any space. ply poplar stained with a blend of gel stains.
But from a woodworking perspective, when you All these elements combine to give you a great-
look at it, you’re probably envisioning mortise and looking project that’s both easy to build and
tenon joinery and an expensive hardwood used relatively inexpensive. The best of both worlds!

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS Top conceals pocket screw
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: holes and wiring channels
NOTE: Underside
of top is beveled
34" W x 13" D x 32" H on three edges
Routed channel Pocket-hole joinery

holds wiring for used for case and
recessed lights base construction
Interior lights are

recessed in shallow
holes in case top
Rabbets in
cabinet sides
hold plywood
back
Beveled glass panels

allow clear view of
items inside cabinet
Shelf pins
in sleeves
allow easy
Cabinet doors adjustment
assembled with of glass shelf
easy-to-cut
half-lap joinery
Hardwood
glass stop
holds panel
in rabbet
Pewter
knob and
escutcheon Screws connect base
complement to the cabinet case
glass doors
Stout legs provide

a solid base for Curved rails on base
the cabinet add decorative detail
CUTTING DIAGRAM (for Materials & Supplies list, see page 39)
1"x 7!/2"- 96" Poplar (Two boards @ 6.3 Bd. Ft. each)
D D
L A A D D Euro-style
concealed
#/4"x 6!/2"- 96" Poplar (4.3 Bd. Ft.) J hinges make
H H fitting inset
G G H H doors a
breeze
#/4"x 6"- 96" Poplar (4 Bd. Ft.)
E E F F
I I I I
1"x 6"- 96" Poplar (5 Bd. Ft.)
B B B K
1"x 6"- 36" Poplar (1.9 Bd. Ft.)
B Also needed: One 48"x 48"
sheet !/4" Birch plywood

NOTE: Back is
Countersink attached later Notch out
holes for #8 x 1#/4"
1!/2" pocket
hole screw back to match a. SIDE VIEW b. TOP
VIEW
Fh woodscrew
29 N channel in top
B !/2 Dry fit
back only.
A Secure after
A finishing
C
1!/2" pocket !/4 cabinet
BACK hole wood
A (!/4"ply.)
CASE SIDE
screws
c. Support
2 sleeve #/8"beveled glass
6#/4 Support
sleeve B
Shelf pin
B
2 Shelf pin CASE TOP 25
2 A Light
CASE
2!/8"-dia. hole,%/8"deep d.
Glass SIDE Inside
shelf view 8#/4
(/32"-dia. (#/8" x 9#/4"- 27&/8") 25 &/8
10!/4 hole,#/8" 5
deep &/8
B
TOP
10#/4 Back 7
edge Countersink for #8 x 1#/4"
Fh woodscrew to attach top
B
NOTE: Top, bottom,
and sides are made 28
CASE BOTTOM e. Back edge
of 1"-thick stock 1!/2 Light
TOP wire channel
VIEW 5 6!/2 #/8"-deep
B
Easy-to-Build 11
Pocket !/2"-dia. !/2
NOTE:
See box below for tips
Case & Base hole on routing the wiring channel
Like most cabinets, this project THE SIDES. After cutting the sides TOP & BOTTOM. Now it’s time to
begins with a solid case. Since the to final size, I added a rabbet on work on the top and bottom. Note
GO
Online
2 case relies on pocket-hole joinery,
making it couldn’t be easier.
As I said earlier, I used poplar
the back edge of each piece to
hold the 1⁄4" plywood back panel.
With a dado blade installed in the
that they’re 1⁄4" narrower than the
sides to allow for the addition of
the plywood back.
Extras for this cabinet. And you might table saw, cutting the 1⁄4" x 1⁄2" rab- The top and bottom have pocket
To access an find boards wide enough for the bet is pretty simple (detail ‘b’). holes drilled on each end to join
article on pocket top, bottom, and sides of the case To complete the sides, you’ll them to the sides. The top also
hole joinery and
tips on making at your lumberyard. But I chose to need to drill the shelf-pin holes. requires a little more work to cre-
beveled glass
stops, check out: glue-up narrower stock instead. I marked the locations, as shown ate the recesses for the lights and a
WoodsmithSpecials.com The glued-up panels are less likely in the main drawing, and drilled channel for the wiring (detail ‘d’).
to cup with changes in humidity. these holes at my drill press. Take a look at the box below.
How-To: Install Recessed Lights

NOTE: Use !/2" Straightedge
straight bit
to rout channel
between holes 2!/8"-dia.
Forstner bit
Light recess
Drill !/2" Wire

dia. holes, Back
edge channel
#/8" deep
Drill End Holes. After laying Rout the Channel. Clamp a Rout the Exit Channel. Move Drill Light Recess. Using a
out the channel for the wir- straightedge to the top, and the straightedge to rout the Forstner bit in the drill press,
ing, drill a hole at each end. rout the 3⁄8"-deep channel. perpendicular exit channel. drill the recesses for the lights.

a. TOP VIEW Holes for
#8 x 1!/2"
3#/4 wood
screws G
#8 x 2"
1#/4 Fh woodscrew BASE TOP
G 2#/4 11!/4"
1#/4
&/8
NOTE: Rails are
Hole for inset !/4" from
&/8 #8 x 2" woodscrew F
outside faces
of legs
NOTE: Countersink holes 11!/2 30!/2
for #8 woodscrews D
E D
3!/2
#8 x 1!/2" Chamfer
b. SIDE VIEW Fh woodscrew
SIDE RAIL
#/4 F E
D
2!/2 FRONT RAIL
3!/2 E LEG 1
26 NOTE: Base top
is centered on
1 base, case is
3!/2 centered on
7 base top
#/4
2!/4 D 5!/4
c. END VIEW
F
3!/2 Chamfer
LEG Chamfer
bit !/16 E F G
NOTE: Rails and
top are made
NOTE: Drill pocket holes of #/4"-thick stock
before cutting the arcs 2 2
in the rails
ASSEMBLY. Assembling the case form a platform. And a top fits The box below shows how to
with pocket hole screws is a over the base, which makes it easy cut the arcs in the rails. You can
breeze. I find it helpful to clamp to connect the base to the case. smooth the edges using a sanding
the assembly while driving the START WITH THE LEGS. To get the 2" drum. Then add a 1⁄16" chamfer to
screws to keep the joints square. thickness necessary for the legs, the bottom edge, and assemble
Finally, cut the back to size and I glued up two thinner pieces. the rails and legs with screws.
set it aside. Adding it later makes Then I cut them to final size and THE BASE TOP. To complete the base,
finishing the cabinet easier. added a 1⁄16" chamfer to the cor- cut the top to size and drill screw
ners and bottom edges. holes, as shown above. Again,
ADD THE BASE ADD THE RAILS. All four rails have add a 1⁄16" chamfer to the top and
You’re ready to get to work on an arc cut on the lower edge. But bottom edges to match the rails.
the base. The front, back, and before you cut these, it’s a good After fastening the top to the base,
side rails connect to short legs to idea to drill the pocket holes. attach it to the case with screws.
Make the Curved Rails

Block
a. TOP VIEW
FIRST: Place center block on

centerline, with the point 1"
from edge
Waste
SECOND: Position end blocks side
NOTE: Use double-sided tape to hold wood strip on corner
to hold blocks in position
Lay Out the Arcs. To lay out the curve of the Next, bend a thin strip of hardwood to the Cut the Rail. At the band saw,
rails, start by attaching a block at the cen- end point of the curve, and add a block on carefully cut the arc, making sure to
terline, marking the highest point of the arc. each end. Now trace the curve with a pencil. stay on the waste side of the line.

DOOR STOP
(1" x !/2 " - 5")
K
13&/8
a. #/4
RAIL
H
RAIL c. TOP VIEW
H
H !/2
GLASS
SIDE VIEW I STOP
2!/2 !#/16
J
I H
I
STILE
#/8 22#/4 Glass door
panel 35mm
(!/4" x 9 !/2" - -dia.
18&/16" with
b. I
1!/4"Bevel)
NOTE: Refer I %/8"
to Sources STILE brad
1!/4
on page 98
for door knobs, Euro-style
hinge J
lights, and I
other hardware RAIL GLASS
information H Door STOP
pull ( %/16"x %/16")
NOTE: Size doors to

leave a !/16"gap on
sides and in center I RAIL 2!/2 d. BACK VIEW
H
STILE
2!/2
Adding the NOTE: Door rails

13&/8
H
3!/2
Doors & Top and stiles are made

of #/4"-thick stock
35mm
-dia.
hole
for
Now that you’ve completed the in the table saw and use a piece hinge
I
cup
basic case and attached the base, of scrap as a test piece to set the
you’re ready to move on to the blade height to cut the half laps.
doors. I built them with straight- The test piece allows you to
forward half-lap joinery for a sneak up on the perfect height. the joints together while smaller
Glass Stops. couple of reasons — it’s easy and THE DOORS. Another advantage clamps apply pressure directly to
Beveled stops it provides plenty of strength to of half-lap joinery is that the the glue surfaces of the half lap.
made on the hold the heavy glass panels. joints are self-squaring. In other ROUT THE RABBETS. After the glue
table saw hold THE RAILS & STILES. You can start words, if the cuts are square, dries, scrape or sand the joints
the glass panels by ripping the rails and stiles to the technique shown in the box so the door will sit flat on your
in the doors. Go width and cutting them to final below will result in a square workbench. The next step is to
online for details. length. Then, install a dado blade door frame. Large clamps pull rout the rabbets that will hold
How-To: Assemble & Rout the Cabinet Door

FIRST: Clamp
the door to
workbench
Aux. Fence
Spacers
H I
THIRD:
NOTE: Use rip fence These clamps Clamp over joint SECOND: Rout Square
to establish the pull the joint ensures a good in a clockwise corners with
shoulder together glue bond direction chisel
Cut the Half Laps. Install a wide dado Proper Clamping Technique. Clamping Rout the Rabbet. Use a rabbeting bit and
blade, and support the workpiece with pressure on the half laps and across the rout in a clockwise direction to create the
a miter gauge for square cuts. frame guarantees a tight assembly. rabbet that will hold the glass.

13 NOTE: Top is made
the glass panels in each door. 34 from 1"-thick stock
The right drawing in the box
shows how to do this. TOP
L
ADD THE HINGE HOLES. Now it’s time
Attach top to
to drill the counterbores for the case with #8 x 1#/4"
Fh woodscrew
hinge cups at the locations shown Use %/8"brads to
in details ‘c’ and ‘d’ on the oppo- secure back
site page. A Forstner bit works
best for these holes.
GLASS STOPS. After drilling the
holes, you’re ready to make the
stops. They’re just narrow hard-
wood strips beveled on one edge
and mitered to fit in the frame.
The beveled edge provides a
flat surface to nail the brads into
without damaging the glass.
You can find helpful ideas for
a. SIDE SECTION VIEW Top flush
with back
making the stops in the Online L 1

&/16
Extras. After cutting the stops,
it’s a good idea to stain the doors
1&/8
before you install the glass. #8 x 1#/4" Fh
woodscrew
HANG THE DOORS. With the glass in
2
place, you can hang the doors.
The Euro-style hinges make this
an easy task. But first, cut out the
door stop and glue it in place
MATERIALS & SUPPLIES
(main drawing, opposite page). A Case Sides (2) 1 x 11 - 25 • (2) 1⁄4" Glass Panels (91⁄2" x 187⁄16")
There’s also the matter of attach- B Case Top/Bottom (2) 1 x 103⁄4 - 28 • (1) 3⁄8" Glass Panel (93⁄4" x 277⁄8")
C Back (1) 1⁄ ply. - 29 x 25 • (2) 17⁄8"-dia. Knobs w/Escutcheons
ing the door knobs. The drawing 4
and detail ‘b’ on the opposite D Legs (4) 2 x 2 - 51⁄4 • (4) Euro Hinges w/Screws
E Base Front/Back Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 31⁄2 - 26 • (16) 11⁄4" Pocket Hole Screws
page indicate the position. 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 7
F Base Side Rails (2) 4 2 • (12) 11⁄2" Pocket Hole Screws
INSTALL THE LIGHTS. Before you can 3
G Base Top (1) ⁄4 x 111⁄2 - 301⁄2 • (8) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
go much further, you’ll need to H Door Rails (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 137⁄ • (8) #8 x 13⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
4 2 8
install the lights. You’ve already I Door Stiles (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 223⁄
4 2 4 • (6) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
prepared the case top to accept J Glass Stop (2) 5⁄ x 5⁄ - 60
16 16 • (35) 5⁄8" Brads
the lights and wiring, so the direc- K Door Stop (1) 1 x 1⁄2 - 5 • (4) Shelf Pins w/Sleeves
tions that come with the lights L Top (1) 1 x 13 - 34 • (1) Low-Profile Xenon Light Kit
should help you finish this task.
PREPARE THE TOP. The next step is
to make the beveled-edge top. the lights in the future, attach the You’ll find the gel stain even
The top covers up the wiring top with screws only. I clamped hides the green streaks often
channels and the pocket holes the top in place to prevent it from found in poplar. Before you fin-
used to assemble the case. sliding while I drilled screw holes ish the cabinet, it’s a good idea to
After cutting the top to final from the inside of the case. Then sample a few stain combinations
size, head to the table saw and keep the clamps in place while on pieces of scrap poplar. Then
tilt the blade 15° to cut the you add the screws. after applying the stain to the
bevel. A tall auxiliary fence GEL STAIN. Poplar is seldom used cabinet, sprayed lacquer com-
helps make this cut easier and as the primary wood in fine fur- pletes the finish.
safer. I beveled the underside of niture. However, the right stain ADD THE BACK. The last thing to do
the front and both sides. Once can make it look like a far more is attach the back panel. It fits in
that’s done, a good sanding to expensive choice. the rabbets and can be secured
smooth the cut edges is all it To get the right color for this with 5⁄8" brads spaced about every
takes to complete the top. project, I used a mixture of equal 6" around the edges of the case.
ATTACH THE TOP. Since you might parts Georgian Cherry and Java Gel Now all you need to do is decide
need access to the wiring and Stain from General Finishes. which room to put the cabinet in.

XXXXXX XXXX XX
CABINETS
Contemporary
Wide-Screen TV Cabinet
Simple lines, classic joinery, and loads of storage space combine to
GO
2
Online
make this TV stand both functional and great-looking.
Televisions have changed a lot over the years. So it’s TV screens. And down below, there’s no lack of space
Extras only natural for the furniture that houses them to for all your electronic equipment. Behind the lattice
change, as well. The sleek, low-profile design of this doors, there are adjustable shelves. The large drawer
For a tip on cut-
ting access holes TV cabinet fits right in with today’s flat-panel televi- adds even more storage for your DVD collection.
in the back, as
well as an etched sions. They look right at home sitting on top of the What you’ll really appreciate is how easy it is to
glass design cabinet or mounted on the wall behind it. build. It’s a simple plywood case trimmed with a
option and video,
go to: If you look at the photo, you’ll see the cabinet solid wood top, face frame, and base. And the lat-
WoodsmithSpecials.com is wide enough to handle large LCD or plasma tice doors finish it off for a great look in any room.

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 75" W x 20" D x 28" H
Rails and stiles of

different thickness
create an
offset joint
Panel Options. For another attractive option,

you can build doors with frosted glass panels. For
details, go to WoodsmithSpecials.com.

a. 12#/4
c.
b.
NOTE: Shelf
pins and
screw holes
drilled before
assembly
d.
Building the Case

The place to start building the
cabinet is the case. The main pan-
els are all cut from cabinet-grade
plywood. (I used white ash.)
Simple joinery keeps everything to house the vertical partitions the center partition. You’ll want
square and easy to assemble. (drawing above). To make sure to go ahead and rout this dado
BUILDING THE BOX. Start by cutting the top and bottom dadoes line while you’ve got things set up.
the top, bottom, and side pieces up, clamp both pieces side-by- TONGUES & DADOES. Now you can
to size. After that’s done, get out side, lay out the dadoes, and then switch to a rabbeting bit and cut
the router to start on the dadoes rout them with a straight bit. the tongues on the ends of the
and rabbets for the joinery. As you can see in the drawing case top and bottom, as shown in
DADOES. The top and bottom above, the top piece will need an detail ‘b.’ While you’re at it, rout
get dadoes on their inside faces additional dado in order to house a rabbet on the back edge of the
side pieces for the back panel.
After that’s done, change over
to a straight bit to rout the match-
ing dadoes in the two sides. Just
be sure to locate the bottom dado
so that you can easily add the
filler strip (detail ‘b’ above).
HOLES. Before you begin to glue
up the case, you can go ahead
and drill the holes in the top and
bottom pieces that will be used
for attaching the partition assem-
bly (drawing at left). You’ll also
need to drill holes in the sides for
shelf pins (lower drawing, oppo-
site page). Once that’s done, you
can glue up the top, bottom, and
BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_042.indd 42 9/13/2011 8:45:06 AM

a.
b.
two sides, then start to work on

the internal partitions.
PARTITION ASSEMBLY. Making the Next, cut the dadoes that will
partitions is simple. The main house the horizontal divider.
drawing on the opposite page Then you can slide the vertical
shows how it’s all assembled. pieces into the case and cut the All of the holes are stopped holes
The two taller, vertical pieces are horizontal divider to fit. The last except for those in the short, ver-
cut to fit between the dadoes of step is to cut a centered dado on tical partition. These holes can be
the case top and bottom. A hori- the horizontal divider to hold the drilled all the way through.
zontal divider fits in dados on the short, center partition. Finally, you can glue the parti-
two vertical pieces. And there’s SHELF PIN HOLES. Before fastening tion pieces into the case and fas-
a center, vertical partition that the partition pieces in the case, ten them in place with screws.
divides the upper space. drill all of the holes for the shelf You’ll want to make sure every-
PARTITIONS. Cut the two long, ver- pins (see drawing below). The thing is square before you move
tical partitions to size. The goal is trick is laying out the holes on on to adding the face frame.
to get a snug fit in the dadoes. the proper face of the workpiece. FACE FRAME. The face frame shown
above is pretty straightforward.
You don’t have to preassemble
the entire frame then try to make
it fit. Each piece is cut to fit and
glued in place separately.
I started with the end stiles,
making sure they were flush on
the outside edges, top, and bot-
tom. Then I cut the two long
horizontal rails to fit between the
stiles and glued them in place.
Next, I trimmed out the vertical
partitions as well as the horizon-
tal divider. Finally, the shorter,
vertical piece is added to the cen-
ter partition. After completing
the face frame, you’ll turn your
attention to the base.

Assembling the Base, Shelves & Top
With the case complete, you can miter joint connects the two blocks, you can simply cut the
now begin working on the base. pieces. I found that it’s easiest to rails to length. To get the exact
As you can see below, the base bevel the edge of a couple of long length of the rails, I set the cor-
is made up of 7⁄8"-thick mitered blanks then cut the groove for the ner blocks on the case so that the
corner assemblies connected by spline on the blanks. outside faces were flush with the
3⁄ "-thick rails. This creates an SPLINED MITERS. The box at the bot- case. Then it was just the simple
4
offset joint. If you take a look at tom of the opposite page shows task of measuring between them
detail ‘b,’ you’ll notice that the how I cut the slot for the splines for the length of the rails. I went
top edge of the base is rabbeted using a standard 1⁄8" kerf blade. ahead and routed the rabbeted
to form a shadow line between Since the joint won’t show, I reveal on the top edge of the rails
the base and the case. decided to use a hardboard spline before moving on.
Pocket hole screws join the rails (detail ‘c’ below). You can cut Once that’s all done, you can
to the corner blocks. You’ll use the corner blocks to final length, fasten the rails to the corner
splined miter joints to make the then glue up the pairs using the blocks with pocket hole screws,
corners. And that’s a good place splines. Finally, you can rout the keeping the back faces flush with
to start assembling the base. shallow rabbet on the top, out- one another (detail ‘d’). A 1⁄8"-
CORNER BLOCKS. The four corner side edge of the blocks. thick spacer helps with clamping
blocks are identical. The grain RAILS. Because pocket hole and alignment. Now you can go
runs vertically and a splined screws join the rails to the corner ahead and add the cleats.
a.
b.
d.
c.

a.
SHELVES. All that’s left to do is
add the shelves and top. The
drawing above shows the four smoothing it. Careful use of a belt
adjustable shelves. They’re sim- sander can make quick work of
ple to make. You just need to cut flattening it. Then you can follow
some plywood panels to size and up with a random orbit sander or
glue hardwood edging onto the sanding block, working your way b.
front edge of each one. through finer and finer grits.
I cut the edging just a little TRIMMING. This top is pretty
wide to extend slightly past the heavy, so it would be awkward
edges of the plywood. After to try trimming the ends square
the glue was dry, I used a hand on the table saw. Instead, I used a
plane to trim the edging flush to straightedge with a circular saw,
the plywood. You could also use as shown in the box below.
a router with a flush-trim bit or After you’ve cut the ends ATTACH THE TOP. Now you can fas-
a sanding block. Just be careful square, you can sand them ten the top through the oversized
that you don’t sand through the smooth with a sanding block. holes in the case. This will allow
thin veneer of the plywood. And while you’re at it, you can the top to move with changes in
GLUED-UP TOP. Now you’re ready lightly ease all the edges of the humidity. Next, you’ll start on the
to move on to the top. It’s glued top to soften sharp corners. doors and then add the drawer.
up from 1"-thick stock. Since it’s
Shop Tips: Splines & Trimming

the “crown” of the project, I took
a little bit of extra time to sort
through the lumber stack to get
the best pieces. You’re looking
for a good color and grain match
between the boards. The goal is
to make your glue lines as incon-
spicuous as possible.
SECTION WORK. If you have access
to a thickness planer, you can
easily smooth out the top. Just
glue it up in two sections, run
each section through the planer,
and then glue up the two sections Cutting Spline Slots. Use the table Squaring Up a Top. To trim the ends of the glued-up
to get a flat, smooth top. saw to cut a straight, clean slot for top, use a sturdy straightedge and a circular saw with
Once you have the entire the splined miter joints. a fine-tooth carbide blade.
top glued up, you can work on

a.
b.
c.
Framing the Doors

The thing that grabs your atten- and 3⁄4"-thick stock for the rails takes some time to get everything
tion right off the bat on this proj- (detail ‘a’ above). Since the join- set up right for a snug fit.
ect is the lattice door panels. The ery is stub tenon and groove, the Now is a good time to put the
lattice is really a series of strips groove in the stiles needs to be pieces for the door frames aside
of wood that are joined with half slightly offset from the center. and turn your attention to the lat-
laps to form a panel. OFF-CENTER GROOVE. If you look at tice panels. Have them in hand
This panel fits into a groove detail ‘a,’ you’ll see what I mean before gluing up the frames.
in the rails and stiles of the door about the off-center groove in the LATTICE PANELS. Cutting the pieces
frame. But before working on the stiles. Locate this groove by cut- for the lattice panels isn’t hard.
lattice panel, you need to make ting the tenon on the rails first. It’s a lot of repetitive work, but
the door frames. They’re made The box below shows how I did if you follow the steps, it goes
up of 7⁄8"-thick stock for the stiles this with a 1⁄4" dado blade. It just smoothly. The next page shows
how I started with wide blanks,
cut the notches for the lap joints,
How-To: Offset Tenon & Groove then ripped the pieces to width.
GLUING UP THE DOORS. Once the pan-
els are complete, you can insert
them in the door frames. But I
didn’t glue the panels in place. I
wanted them to be able to move
with changes in humidity. Now
you can glue up the door frames,
making sure they’re square.
MOUNTING THE DOORS. Before
mounting the doors, add some
mounting blocks for the hinges.
Start with the Tenon. Form the tenons Locate the Groove. Position the rip fence These need to be flush with the
on the rails with a 1⁄4"-wide dado blade. to cut the groove in the rails and stiles. The inside edge of the face frame, as
Flip the workpiece to center the tenon. groove in the stiles will be off-center. shown in the drawing at the top
of the opposite page.

With the hinge blocks glued in
place, mount the hinges and set
them in the opening. I used 1⁄8"-
thick spacers to maintain a con-
sistent reveal around the door.
Next are the door stops — just
hardwood blocks glued behind
the face frame. The drawing on
the far right shows the location.
All that’s left to do now is add
the door pulls. Then you can start
on the drawer and back panel.
How-To: Making a Lattice Panel

To make the pieces for the lattice
panels, start with several wide
blanks, as shown on the right.
This way, you can cut the notches
for the lap joints all at once and
know they’ll be lined up when you
assemble the lattice. Then rip the
strips to width to fit the notches.
Cutting Dadoes. To start, you’re
simply cutting a series of dadoes
in wide blanks. The trick is to lay
them out accurately. It’s easiest
to mark the dado location on the
edge of the blank. Then align the
marks with the dado blade to cut
the dadoes in a couple of passes.
Setting Up the Cut. I used a 3⁄4"
dado blade in my saw to cut all the
joints for the lattice. But to get the
right blade height, I used a scrap
piece that was the same thickness
as my blank. I adjusted the blade
height to cut to the center of the
thickness of the test piece.
Start On the Ends. Start by cut-
1 Starting at the Ends. Use the rip fence as a
guide to accurately cut the lap joints on the
ends of the blanks with a dado blade.
2 Align for the First Pass. Use your layout
lines to line up the dado blade to make the
first pass for cutting the dado.
ting the lap joints on the ends of
the blanks, using the rip fence as a
guide. Flip the blank end-for-end,
and make the same cut. Now, line
up the fence for the dadoes.
Two Passes. Looking at the
drawings on the right, you can
see how I aligned my layout marks
with the dado blade. Use a spacer
at the end of the blank against the
rip fence to “nudge” the piece over
to make the second cut. Lastly, you
can rip the pieces to width.
3 Use a Spacer. To make the 1"-wide dado, add
a 1⁄4" spacer against the rip fence to move the
blank over, then make a second pass.
4 Rip to Width. Rip the workpieces to width
from the blank. Aim for a snug fit in the
corresponding pieces that make up the panel.

Adding the Drawer & Back
The last two things to do are face of all four pieces to hold the of the opening, flush with the
build the drawer and make the drawer bottom. After cutting the edge of the face frame (detail
back panel. The drawer fits in the 1⁄ " plywood bottom to size, you ‘d’ below). They allow the metal
4
lower, center opening in the case. can glue and screw the drawer slides to be installed without
It’s made with simple, rabbeted box together, making sure that obstruction from the face frame.
joints and finished off with a false everything stays square. Once the spacers and slides are
front. You’ll build the drawer SPACERS. There’s one last thing in place, you’re ready to work on
first, then install metal slides. to do before you can install the the drawer false front.
A SIMPLE BOX. Start by cutting the metal drawer slides in the case. I FALSE FRONT. The false front
front, back, and two side pieces to couldn’t mount the metal drawer couldn’t be any simpler. It’s just a
final size. Then you can cut a rab- slides directly onto the sides of piece of hardwood sized to fit the
bet on the ends of the front and the case because the face frame opening. The only tricky part is
back pieces (drawing below). overhangs the drawer opening. getting it sized so that there’s an
The next thing you’ll need to To get around this problem, I even 1⁄8" reveal all around. Then
do is cut a groove on the inside made spacers to fit on the sides it’s just a matter of fastening it to
the front of the drawer box.
To mount the false front, put
some double-sided tape on the
a.
b. d.
c.

front of the drawer box. Then you
can take some time to carefully Refer to
position the false drawer front in Online Extras
for cutting
the opening. Press firmly until the access holes
tape “grabs.” Once the false front
is in position, fasten it with screws
from the inside of the drawer.
BACK PANEL. The last piece you’ll
(!/4" ply.)
need to add is the back panel.
This is made from 1⁄4" plywood.
The openings you see in the
drawing provide access to cables
for electronic components. But Java Gel Stain. A
more importantly, they provide wiping varnish on the case con-
ventilation to prevent heat build- trasts with the dark stain and a.
up. Check out the Online Extras adds a nice, warm tone.
to learn how to cut clean, smooth To make the task of apply-
openings. Next, mount the back ing the stain easier, I removed
panel to the case using wire brads the top and base from the case
around the edge (detail ‘a’). before applying the stain to
After going over the entire proj- those pieces. And I rubbed a
ect with some sandpaper, you can wiping varnish onto the case, Finally, put the cabinet in your
think about the finish. shelves, and drawer front. Then favorite room to show it off. After
FINISHING UP. I used a “two-tone” I reassembled everything and you install the shelves and your
finish for this project. For the top applied a clear lacquer finish for electronic equipment, just sit
and base, I chose General Finishes’ a layer of protection. back, relax, and enjoy the show.

A Case Top (1) 3⁄ ply. - 18 x 691⁄ Q Long Cleats (2) 1 x 1 - 681⁄2 GG Drw. Front/Back (2) 1⁄ x 61⁄ - 353⁄
4 4 2 2 4
B Case Bottom (1) 3⁄ ply. - 18 x 691⁄ R Short Cleats (2) 1x1-6 HH Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 61⁄ - 17
4 4 2 2
C Case Sides (2) 3⁄ ply. - 181⁄ x 223⁄ S Center Shelves (2) 3⁄4 ply. - 17 x 181⁄4 II Drawer Bottom (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 17 x 351⁄4
4 4 4
D Vert. Partitions (2) 3⁄4 ply. - 18 x 211⁄4 T End Shelves (2) 3⁄ ply. - 17 x 141⁄
4 2 JJ False Front (1) 3⁄ x 63⁄ - 361⁄
4 4 2
E Center Partition (1) 3⁄ ply. - 18 x 13 U Center Shelf Edging (2) 3⁄4 x 3⁄4 - 181⁄4 KK Back Panel (1) 1⁄ ply. - 223⁄ x 693⁄
4 4 4 4
F Hor. Divider (1) 3 ⁄4 ply. - 18 x 381⁄4 V End Shelf Edging (2) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 141⁄
4 4 2
G Long Filler Strips (2) 1⁄ x 2 - 683⁄ W Top (1) 1 x 20 - 75 • (2) 32mm Door Pulls
2 4
H Short Filler Strips (2) 1⁄ x 2 - 14 X Door Rails (4) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 10 • (2) 96mm Drawer Pulls
2 4 2
I End Face Frames (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 223⁄ Y Door Stiles (4) 7⁄ x 21⁄ - 20 • (1 pr.) 16" Full-Ext. Drawer Slides
4 4 4 8 2
J Top/Bot. Face Fra. (2) 3 ⁄4 x 11⁄4 - 673⁄4 Z Vertical End Lattice (4) 1⁄ x 11⁄ - 16 • (2 pr.) Full Inset Hinges
4 2
K Vert. Face Frames (2) 3⁄4 x 11⁄4 - 201⁄4 AA Vertical Lattice (6) 1⁄ x 1 - 16
4 • (16) 1⁄4" Nickel Shelf Support Pins
L Hor. Face Frame (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 361⁄ BB Horizontal End Lattice (4) 1⁄4 x 11⁄2 - 10 • (16) #7 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
4 4 4
M Center Face Frame (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 12 CC Horizontal Lattice (12) 1⁄ x 1 - 10 • (6) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
4 4 4
N Corner Block (8) 7⁄ x 37⁄ - 41⁄ DD Hinge Blocks (4) 1 ⁄2 x 31⁄2 - 4 • (34) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
8 8 8
O Long Base Rails (2) 3 ⁄4 x 23⁄4 - 621⁄2 EE Door Stops (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 21⁄ • (18) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
4 4 2
P Short Base Rails (2) 3⁄ x 23⁄ - 111⁄ FF Drawer Spacers (2) 1⁄ x 2 - 18 • (1 pkg.) 5⁄8" Wire Brads
4 4 4 2
1"x 6"- 84" White Ash (4 boards @ 4.4 Bd. Ft. each) !/2" x 7"- 96" White Ash (4.7 Sq. Ft.)
W GG GG HH
#/4" x 7" - 96" White Ash (4.7 Bd. Ft.) !/2" x 7!/2" - 96" White Ash (5 Sq. Ft.)
O P CC CC G
HH DD
#/4" x 7"- 84" White Ash (4.0 Bd. Ft.)
#/4" x 7"- 96" White Ash (4.7 Bd. Ft.) H FF EE
JJ Z AA BB I J
X X X X K
1"x 7!/2" - 84" White Ash (5.5 Bd. Ft.)
L M U V
Y Y N N N N ALSO NEEDED:
Two - 48" x 96" Sheets of #/4" White Ash plywood
One - 48" x 96" Sheet of !/4" White Ash plywood
Q R

XXXXXX XXXX XX
CABINETS
Craftsman-Style Cabinet
This project will challenge you to use a variety of basic cabinet-making
skills — assembling a case, fitting a door, and building drawers.
What is it about this cabinet that you notice first? The case panels together while adding glue and clamps
door with its two center stiles? The four drawers with can be a real juggling act. But that won’t be a prob-
GO their hammered ring pulls? Or possibly the straight, lem here. When it’s time to assemble the project,
2
Online
even grain of the oak case? For a relatively small
project, there are a lot of details to take in.
just work from the inside out, adding a piece or two
at a time. The relatively small size of the case also
Extras And there’s a lot of woodworking here, too. The helps keep the assembly easily manageable. So you
case is plywood construction. The solid wood base won’t need an extra set of hands.
To learn about is a mortise and tenon assembly with a mitered And how about the drawers? They’re built with
riftsawn and
plainsawn grain, frame. And the top is a large, glued-up panel. Add a half-blind dovetail router jig and are mounted
plywood edging, an inset door and drawers, and you’re using a vari- on full-extension metal slides. These work great
and veneer-core
and MDF-core ety of cabinet-making techniques. (especially when the drawer is stuffed full), and
plywood, go to:
If all this sounds a bit overwhelming, keep in they’re fairly easy to install. Still, by the time all
mind that all these techniques are pretty straight- four drawers were in place, I had a pretty good list
forward. Take the case, for instance. Fitting a lot of of installation tips — the five best are on page 57.

OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 38" W x 20" D x 35!/2" H
Solid wood top

is chamfered on top NOTE: Cabinet is built
and bottom edges with riftsawn red oak
TOP PANEL
Frame and panel
door has two Drawers mounted
center stiles with full-extension
Magnetic
catch drawer slides
ADJUSTABLE
SHELF
Case joined
with dadoes
DIVIDER SMALL
DRAWER
CASE
SIDE
Sources for pulls Case panels

and slides listed edged with
on page 98 !/4"-thick strips
LARGE of solid wood
DRAWER
Case attached
to base through
mitered frame
Open mortises LEG
Base legs and

rails joined with FRONT
open mortise and tenon joints RAIL
Door built with

DOOR stub tenon and
DETAIL groove joinery
1#/4"-thick
legs glued up
from three pieces
!/4"
plywood
1(/16" x 2" NOTE: For drawer
butt hinge installation tips, see page 57

NOTE: For more
on riftsawn oak and
plywood, refer
to the Online Extras
TOP
FIGURE B 17!/4 !/2 a.
1 B
8!/2 #/4
1!/2 !/4
6!/8 !/4
17
FRONT
SECTION
CASE VIEW !/4
17!/2 SIDE
Tongue aligns Lay out dadoes A B
top with sides so all drawer
openings will #/4
Centered dado be same height A #/4
for vertical 12!/4 CASE
divider SIDE !/4
25!/4
CASE #/4
17
SIDE
A 6!/8 B
DIVIDER
B
!/2
b. !/2
33 C
EDGING
NOTE: All dadoes (!/4"thick) TOP VIEW !/4"
cut !/4" deep Ply.
B
BOTTOM B
C NOTE: Edging for top, bottom,
EDGING and sides added after assembly, C
see Figure 3 Front A
edge !/4
Building the Case

To build this Craftsman-style might be in a separate stack. Rift- sized for the 3⁄4" plywood. You’ll
cabinet, start with the case. The sawn plywood is also available, find the few exceptions to this are
joinery here is typical of case con- but the core may be MDF instead the 1⁄4"-wide dadoes at the ends
struction: the plywood panels are of the regular plies, see photo at of the sides (Figure 1a).
put together mostly with dadoes. left. (You can go online for more These narrower dadoes are
And all the edges will be covered on riftsawn oak and on the differ- designed to hold 1⁄4" tongues
Plywood. with solid wood edging. ences between regular plywood that will be cut on the ends of
This case can be RIFTSAWN RED OAK. I should begin and MDF-core plywood.) the top and bottom panels. This
built with veneer- by mentioning something about CASE SIDES & DIVIDERS. To build the joint adds mechanical strength,
core plywood the wood used to build this proj- case, start by cutting the two sides but more importantly, it causes
(top) or MDF-core ect. The straight, even grain is a and the top, bottom, and divider the panels to automatically align
plywood (bottom). characteristic of oak that’s been to finished size (Figure 1). during assembly, so there’s one
For more on this, riftsawn (not plain or flatsawn). CUT DADOES. As I mentioned less thing to think about. (The
check out the To find it, you might have to pick earlier, the case is joined with 1⁄4"- tongues are made by rabbeting
Online Extras. through the stack of red oak, or it deep dadoes, most of which are the ends of the panels.)
PLYWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM

#/4" - 48" x 24"
Red Oak !/4" - 48" x 48"
Plywood #/4" - 48" x 96"Red Oak Plywood Red Oak Plywood !/4 " - 48" x 48" Maple Plywood
X B B A Q
D P P P
B E E A
W
W
W

FIGURE
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
After finishing the dadoes and
tongues, cut the wider dadoes in
2 woodscrew
the sides, top, and divider.

The left side panel gets a single 17
dado for the long divider, while 5%/8

the right panel gets three dadoes
DRAWER
for its dividers (Figure 1). It’s DIVIDER
important to lay out the dadoes E
18!/8
carefully so the drawer openings
all end up the same height.
The dadoes cut in the top and E
divider panels will trap a vertical
divider. (Refer to Figure 2.) These 5%/8
17
dadoes are centered on the length 16#/8
of the panels, and they should a. FRONT D
line up across from each other so SECTION VERTICAL
VIEW DIVIDER
the door and drawer openings in
D
the case will end up square. #8 x 1!/4"
#/4
EDGING. Next, I glued 1⁄4"-thick Fh woodscrew
solid wood edging to the front NOTE:
edges of the case sides and then E To size dividers,
!/4 dry assemble case
hand planed and sanded them
flush (Figure 1b). The edging acts
as a stop for the other panels dur-
ing assembly. (More edging will
3
be glued to the other pieces after
the case has been put together.)
With the edging glued in place,
the back edges of the side panels
can be rabbeted to hold a 1⁄4" ply- NOTE: Add
edging for top,
wood back (Figure 1b). bottom, and
VERTICAL DIVIDER. Now you’re divider first
C NOTE: For
ready to dry assemble the case more on
EDGING
pieces and cut the vertical divider trimming
edging flush
shown in Figure 2. This divider with plywood,
will hold two horizontal drawer refer to the
Online Extras
dividers, so there are a couple
of dadoes to cut (Figure 2a). Just
be sure that they align with the
dadoes in the side panels so the
openings will end up square.
ASSEMBLY. As soon as the drawer
dividers are cut to size, you can
assemble the case. To do this,
work from the inside out, start-
ing with the case set on its front
face. (Later the assembly needs the right side panel. Finally, the EDGING. When the glue is dry,
to be upright so clamps can be bottom and left side panels can cover the exposed plywood with
added across the front). be added to the assembly. more 1⁄4"-thick edging (Figure
One thing that will help is As you’re working with the 3). Clamping this edging is no
to screw the vertical divider side panels, make sure that the trouble since the back panel isn’t
between the top panel and the connecting pieces are all tight in place yet. However, trimming
long horizontal divider, as indi- against the edging in front. This the edging flush with the ply-
cated in Figures 1 and 2. Then the should automatically line up the wood did require a couple differ-
drawer dividers can be trapped back of the pieces with the rab- ent solutions. For more on this,
between the vertical divider and bets in the side panels. visit WoodsmithSpecials.com.

J
FRAME
END
4
FIGURE
FRAME I a. FRONT Case
BACK FRAME assembly
FRONT SECTION
BACK VIEW
RAIL 3 I
G
H 2
#8 x 1!/4"
18!/2 BASE Fh woodscrews
35
FRAME
END !/2
3!/2
31!/2
15 Open mortise
b. H
Bottom
8#/4
BOTTOM !/2 of case
END H G F VIEW
F
RAIL FRONT
RAIL NOTE: Base pieces J 3
LEG F are made from
LEG #/4"-thick solid wood F G
!/4"chamfer I
Building the Base, Top & Back c. 1#/4

Now you can begin to work on After the four leg blanks had SECTION !/2
VIEW
the base, top, and back of the cab- been glued together and then #/4 1#/4
inet. While the case was mostly cut to final length, I decided to NOTE:
Leg glued !/2
plywood, the pieces here (except chamfer the inside edge of each up from
three #/4"- !/2
the back) are solid wood. leg on the table saw, as shown in thick pieces
BASE. Start with the base, as Figure 4c. This step helped me
shown in Figure 4. This is just four keep the pieces oriented visually,
short legs joined with rails. Then so I always knew which corner “identical,” so it’s a good idea to
to connect the base to the case, was the inside one. lay out the mortises carefully.
there’s a simple mitered frame. The base pieces will be joined To complete the legs, you need
LEGS. The legs of the base end up with open mortises and tenons, to rout a small chamfer along
13⁄4" square. But as you can see in and I generally like to cut open the bottom end (Figure 5). Here,
Figure 5, I glued up three, 3⁄4"-thick mortises on the router table. you’ll want to be sure to use a
pieces instead of buying thicker These are deep enough (9⁄16") that backer board to prevent chipout.
material. Arrange the pieces care- you’ll want to rout each mortise RAILS. With the legs complete,
fully, and be sure to match the in two passes. And since the mor- you can add the 3⁄4"-thick pieces
grain on the edges so that the joint tises are not centered on the legs, that connect them. Size the front,
lines are nearly invisible. When you’ll have to adjust the router back, and end rails so the assem-
planing the blanks down to 13⁄4", fence before you cut the second bled base matches the size of the
take the same amount off each mortise on each piece (Figure case. Then cut tenons on the ends
face so the outside pieces end up 6b). Since the mortises aren’t cen- to fit the mortises in the legs, as
the same thickness. tered, the four legs aren’t actually shown in Figure 7. Because the
NOTE: Reposition fence

5 NOTE: Glue 6 for second mortise
on each leg
blanks together,
then plane faces 1#/4
equally
F
Stop line NOTE: Stop mortise

3!/4 for 3!/4"-long short and clean up
mortise !/4" straight bit with chisel
9!/2
rgh. 8#/4
a. END VIEW b. END VIEW
FIRST SECOND
!/4 MORTISE MORTISE
F
!/4
LEG !/2
(/16 NOTE: Rout 1 NOTE: Rout
mortise in mortise in
two passes two passes
#/4 !/4" (/16

chamfer !/4" straight bit

mortises are open, you won’t
need to cut a shoulder on the top,
7 NOTE:
Size tenons to
just the bottom, as in Figure 7b. fit open mortises a. END
VIEW Aux. b. END
fence VIEW
When you’re satisfied with the !/2 !/2
Aux. fence
fit of the tenons, the base pieces
Aux.
can be assembled. With the open !/4 fence
mortises and tenons, keep an eye Dado
blade !/4
on the top edges of the pieces to
G !/4"Dado
make sure they end up flush. FRONT/BACK blade
FRAME. To make it easy to con- RAIL
nect the base and case, I added
a 3⁄4"-thick frame (Figure 4). The
front, back, and ends are sized
so the frame will overhang the
8 Aux.
fence
legs 1⁄2" on each side. But the final Adhesive- a.
backed
length isn’t as important as mak- sandpaper 1 !/8
ing sure the long and short pieces on fence NOTE: I
prevents !/16" 4
end up the same length. And shifting chamfer 1
instead of using a stop block to on top
and
do this, I simply taped the pieces I
bottom
edges J
together when mitering them, as FRAME FRONTS BOTTOM
(Taped together with VIEW
shown in Figure 8.
double-sided tape)
Before gluing up the frame,
you can rout a 1⁄16" chamfer on
the top and bottom outside edges overhang the front and sides 2" (The plywood case isn’t going
and also drill two sets of counter- but only 1⁄2" in back (Figure 9a). to.) So I drilled oversized shank
sunk shank holes for screwing After the top panel has been holes (3⁄16") in the case top and
the frame to the base and the case planed smooth, chamfer its top used roundhead screws and
(Figure 8a). After gluing up the and bottom edges (Figure 9b). washers to screw the solid-wood
frame, screw it to the base and Rout a slightly larger chamfer top in place (Figure 9).
then screw the base to the case. (1⁄4") around the bottom edge. BACK. The last piece to add is
TOP. With the base complete, I (The top chamfer is just 1⁄16".) the easiest. It’s just a 1⁄4" plywood
worked on the 3⁄4"-thick top panel When attaching the top to the back panel that’s cut to fit the
of the case next, as illustrated in case, the solid-wood panel needs opening in back and then nailed
Figure 9. I sized the panel to to be able to expand and contract. in place with brads (Figure 9).
9 K TOP PANEL
a. TOP K
PANEL
38
20 2
NOTE: 1!/2
Top panel
is glued
up out of 1!/2
#/4"-thick stock
#8 x 1!/4 " BOTTOM
Rh woodscrew SECTION
and washer #/16"-dia. VIEW
25!/4 shank hole
L allows for wood 2
BACK PANEL movement
(!/4" Ply.) Back of
case
#/4"-long !/2
brad
b. !/16" chamfer
TOP K
PANEL
33!/2
!/4" chamfer

NOTE: Use !/2"-thick maple for
FIGURE
10 SMALL
BACK SMALL
sides, fronts, and backs,
#/4"-thick oak for false fronts
NOTE: For sources M BOTTOM
of pulls and slides, (!/4" Ply. - 15#/4" x 14#/8") !/2
refer to page 98 14&/8 P
SIDE
O
M N
5!/4 O
16" full-extension
drawer slide 15#/4 4#/8
LARGE
BACK
M R
N !/2
SMALL SMALL
FRONT FALSE
FRONT
O
31!/2 SIDE
5!/4
DRAWER DETAIL
LARGE N
FRONT Ring
O pull a. M
SIDE LARGE FRONT
4#/8 S FALSE VIEW
32#/8
7&/8 FRONT #/4
15&/8 Drawer
slide
Q
4#/8
LARGE NOTE: Ring pulls
NOTE: Leave !/16" BOTTOM for drawers require !/4 FRONT
clearance on all (!/4" Ply. - 15#/4" x 31") 1!/4"-long machine !/2 M
sides of false front screws, see Figure 12a
Building the Drawers

The drawers on this project are drawer slides, which are hidden dovetail joint. The drawers don’t
made much like those on other by a false front. Sources for the have to match the depth of the
cabinets. They’re built using a hardware are on page 98. cabinet exactly. I left 1⁄4" in back,
half-blind dovetail router jig and CUT TO SIZE. The first thing to do making the sides 157⁄8" long.
are mounted on full-extension is cut all the drawer pieces to size DOVETAILS & BOTTOM GROOVE. With
from 1⁄2"-thick maple, as in Figure the drawer pieces in hand, you
11 END
SECTON VIEW
10. There’s a false front here, so
there’s no need to try to fill the
can rout the half-blind dovetails
(Drawer Detail in Figure 10). Then
!/4 Thickness height of the openings — you the groove for the 1⁄4" plywood
NOTE: Groove SIDE of !/4"
centered on pin O plywood can allow for a little “breathing bottoms can be cut (Figure 11).
room” (Figure 10a). And since all Center the groove on the first pin
!/4" the openings are the same height, on the drawer sides so it won’t be
all the drawer pieces can be visible after assembly.
NOTE: Cut groove NOTE: ripped to the same width (43⁄8"). INSTALLATION. After the drawers
Cut groove
in all drawer pieces
a. in two passes As for the lengths of the drawer have been glued together, they
pieces, the small front and back can be mounted on the metal
and the large front slides. This isn’t too difficult, and
12 a. SIDE and back are easy
to size. Measure the
the installation tips on the next
page make the job even easier.
SECTION
15#/4 VIEW
1 width of the open- FALSE FRONT. Finally the 3⁄4"-thick
R #8 x 1" ings and subtract false fronts can be added, as in
Rh screw & 1" for the metal Figure 12. Here’s where any cus-
washer
slides (1⁄2" on each tom fitting comes in. Size each
5!/4
side). Figuring the piece to allow for a 1⁄16" gap on
Double-
sided 1 length of the sides each side. To attach them to the
tape, see requires a bit more drawers, I relied on double-sided
tip on the #8-32 x 1!/4"
Center ring Rh machine
opposite pull on math because you tape and a couple of pennies. (See
page screw &
false front washer need to allow for the tip 5 on the next page.) Now all
false front and the that’s left is to mount the pulls.

Five Drawer Installation Tips
Building a drawer is only half the each slide parallel isn’t auto-
battle — you also have to install matic. Here are tips you can use
it so it slides smoothly. Whenever to make the process (and the
possible, I like to use metal slides. slides) as smooth as possible.
They work well whether the
drawer is empty or full.
Of course, the drawer slides
have to be installed properly.
1 Flatten the Bottom
When installing slides, measure
In theory, this is pretty straight- from the bottom edge. Make
forward. The reality is that case sure the bottom is flat using
openings aren’t always square. adhesive-backed sandpaper on
And getting the two halves of the table saw.
2 Adjustment Slots 3 Slide Installation Jig

For the drawer half of the slide The jig shown below ensures that your metal Cleat. The drawers have 3⁄4"-thick false
(Figure 1), I use the vertical slots slides are level. And it’s just a scrap piece that fronts, so the slides need to be inset 3⁄4"
on the mounting slide so the the slide rests on as it’s screwed in place. into the cabinet (detail ‘a’). To help, screw a
drawer can shift up or down. Height of Jig. The important dimension short cleat to the front of the jig. Then draw
Once I have the drawer open- of this jig is its height — the case half of the a mark 3⁄4" back from the joint line.
ing smoothly, I add a screw to slide needs to align with the drawer half. It’s With the cleat against the case, align the
one of the holes so everything easy to do with this simple procedure. slide with the mark and screw it in place.
is locked in place. First, mount the drawer half
of the slide, as shown in Figure NOTE: Size height
Mark
1 Screw
through
1. (The slides are centered on
the height of the drawers.)
indicates
setback
of jig so slide is
centered on drawer a.
vertical for false
Slide slots
Next, slide the case half back front
centered
on drawer onto the drawer half. Finding
height the height of the jig is just a #/4
#/4 1(/16
matter of measuring to the bot- Jig
tom of the drawer and allow-
ing for the gap below it (1⁄4" in Cleat
Figure 10a on page 56).
4 Fitting Inset Faces

When an inset drawer is shut,
Straight-
edge
5 Attaching the False Front
Attaching a false front can be an “on again, off again”
its face should be in the same ordeal. With 1⁄16" gaps between this piece and the case
plane as the face of the cabinet. opening, it needs to be positioned perfectly.
If it’s not flush, you can end up Front First, place double-sided tape on the front of the drawer
of drawer
with a fairly obvious shoulder. (below). Then set a few pennies in the case to create the
When a drawer needs to gap at the bottom. After centering the false front side-to-
be planed or sanded flush, it’s side by eye, tip it up and press it against the drawer.
tempting to work on the false
front. But there’s a risk. You
could round over its edges.
Instead, I sand or plane the
a.
actual front of the drawer progress), I use a metal rule as !/16
before the false front is added. a straightedge, as shown in the False
Double-sided front
(Or I’ll remove the false front.) drawing above. Simply set it tape
And to help me see exactly across the opening in the case
Penny
where to plane the front piece and pull the drawer out until it Penny
(as well as to help check my touches the rule.

RAIL 11!/2
U
FIGURE
13 CENTER
STILE V a. CENTER
STILE
2!/2 V #/8
NOTE: Hinges mortised

into door only 13!/4 !/4 !/4 1!/4
T 13!/4 !/4"
plywood
STILE 12!/2 W
17!/2 W
NOTE: Door sized to fit

b. #/4
opening with !/16" gap T
on each side V STILE
2!/2 U
RAIL
3!/2 U
1(/16" x 2" 10#/4 NOTE: All grooves
antique brass cut #/8" deep to
butt hinge hold !/4" plywood
W 2
PANEL 2!/2 2#/4 V
W
T
Building the Door

Once the drawers are complete, On the other hand, if the case isn’t involve a careful layout or a
all that’s left is to make the small square, then I’ll cut the pieces dado blade. Instead, I simply use
inset door. It’s a frame and panel slightly oversized. This way, the a regular blade that’s roughly
assembly joined with stub tenons door can be trimmed to match centered on the workpiece, and
and grooves — the only “twists” the shape of the opening so the then I make two passes, flipping
you’ll find are a couple of center gaps around it are consistent. the piece end-for-end between
stiles that divide the panels, as STUB TENON & GROOVE. To join the passes. (This process centers the
shown in the photo at left. frame pieces, I chose to use stub groove automatically.)
CHECK CASE. Before building an tenon and groove joinery. You’ll After the first two passes,
inset door, I like to check the want to start by cutting one 3⁄8"- the groove will be too narrow.
case opening first. If it’s square, deep, centered groove on each All you have to do is nudge the
the 3⁄4"-thick stiles, rails, and cen- piece, as shown in Figure 14. The rip fence toward the blade and
ter stiles can be cut to final size, exceptions to this are the center repeat until the groove holds a
as shown in Figure 13. (I sized stiles — they get a groove on piece of 1⁄4" plywood.
the door so the gaps around its both edges (Figure 13a). Cutting the stub tenons on the
edges would match those around The method I like to use for rails and center stiles is much
the false drawer fronts — 1⁄16".) cutting a centered groove doesn’t the same as cutting the grooves
14 NOTE: Cut grooves on both

edges of center stile
15
a. END
a.
END VIEW
VIEW
Center Aux. Aux.
groove Aux. fence fence
for !/4" fence #/8
STILE plywood Dado
T blade #/4
#/8
NOTE: Flip Dado V
CENTER
workpiece between blade STILE
passes to center groove

(Figure 15). Each tenon is cut in
two passes, with the piece flipped
16 a. SIDE SECTION
Magnetic VIEW
over between passes. And you’ll catch
want to sneak up on the size of
the tenon until it just fits the !/4"-dia. Catch & strike
groove. (This time though, you’ll hole,
!/4" deep
be using a dado blade buried in Shelf 3
an auxiliary fence.) pin
PANELS & ASSEMBLY. Now that the !/4 3
16
joinery for the frame is complete,
ADJUSTABLE
you can go ahead and cut the SHELF C
X
three identical door panels that X
15%/8
fit between the stiles, as shown in
Figure 13. Then after the door has 5!/2
been dry assembled and you’re
satisfied with the fit, the pieces C
EDGING NOTE:
can be glued together. Shelf rests on
spoon-style pins
HANG DOOR. When mounting this
inset door, I used common butt
hinges (antique brass). The mor-
tises for these hinges are cut just and then make repeated passes SHELF. The last piece to add is an
in the left door stile (not the case), over a dado blade. adjustable shelf, as shown in Figure
and I sized them so that there MOUNT HARDWARE. All that you 16. This is just a 3⁄4" plywood panel
would be a 1⁄16" gap between the have left to complete the door with a 1⁄4" strip of edging added to
door and case (Figure 13b). An now is to add the ring pull to the its front edge. To support this panel,
easy way to do this is at the table right stile (Figure 13) and add a you’ll need to drill some 1⁄4"-deep
saw. Simply stand the door on magnetic catch (and strike plate), holes inside the case and add some
edge against a tall auxiliary fence, as shown in Figure 16. shelf pins (Figure 16a).
MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & HARDWOOD CUTTING DIAGRAM

A Case Sides (2) 3⁄ ply. - 171⁄ x 251⁄ X Adjustable Shelf (1) 3⁄4 ply. - 16 x 155⁄8 • (6) Ring-Style Drawer Pulls
4 4 4
B Top/Btm./Divider (3) 3⁄ ply. - 17 x 33 • (22) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews • (5) #8-32 x 11⁄4" Rh Machine Screws
4
C Edging 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 230 In. in. • (6) #8 x 11⁄4" Rh Woodscrews • (16) #8 x 1" Rh Woodscrews
4 4
D Vertical Divider (1) 3⁄ ply. - 17 x 181⁄ • (28) #8 Washers • (1 pr.) 19⁄16" x 2" Ant. Br. Butt Hinges
4 8
E Drawer Dividers (2) 3⁄4 ply. - 17 x 163⁄8 • (1 pkg.) #17 x 3⁄4" Brads • (1) Magnetic Catch w/Strike Plate
F Legs* (4) 13⁄4 x 13⁄4 - 83⁄4 • (4 pr.) 16" Full-Extension Slides • (4) 1⁄4" Spoon-Style Shelf Pins
G Front/Back Rails (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 311⁄
4 2 2
H End Rails (2) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 15
4 2 #/4" x 5!/2" - 96" Red Oak (Two Boards @ 3.7 Bd. Ft. Each)
I Frame Front/Back (2) 3⁄ x 3 - 35
4 K K H
J Frame Ends (2) 3⁄ x 3 - 181⁄
4 2
K Top Panel (1) 3⁄ x 20 - 38
4 #/4" x 6!/2" - 96" Red Oak (Two Boards @ 4.3 Bd. Ft. Each)
L Back Panel (1) 1⁄ ply. - 331⁄ x 251⁄
4 2 4 G I J
M Small Drawer Fr./Bk. (6) 1⁄2 x 43⁄8 - 147⁄8 T U
N Large Drawer Fr./Bk. (2) 1⁄2 x 43⁄8 - 311⁄2 F F F
O Drawer Sides (8) 1⁄ x 43⁄ - 157⁄ #/4" x 7" - 96" Red Oak (4.7 Bd. Ft.)
2 8 8
V
P Small Bottoms (3) ⁄4 ply. - 153⁄4 x 143⁄8
1 S R R R
Q Large Bottom (1) 1⁄ ply. - 153⁄ x 31
4 4
R Small False Fronts (3) 3⁄4 x 51⁄4 - 153⁄4 C
3⁄ x 51⁄ - 323⁄ !/2" x 5!/2" - 96" Maple (Two Boards @ 3.7 Sq. Ft. Each)
S Large False Front (1) 4 4 8
T Door Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 171⁄ O O O O M M
4 2 2
U Door Rails (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 111⁄
4 2 2
V Door Center Stiles (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 131⁄
4 4 4 !/2" x 5!/2" - 96" Maple (3.7 Sq. Ft.)
W Door Panels (3) 1⁄ ply. - 31⁄ x 131⁄
4 2 4 N N M M
* Each leg glued up from three 3⁄4"-thick

NOTE: Plywood cutting diagram shown on page 52. Sources for hardware listed on page 98.
blanks.

Timeless
Shelves
Not only do these projects provide places to
store and showcase all sorts of decorative and
household items, but each is built with fine
craftsmanship that’s worthy of display, too.
HANGING WALL SHELVES ..............62
COUNTRY WALL SHELF ..................66
DOVETAILED DISPLAY SHELF .........72
FIVE-TIER DISPLAY TOWER .............76

XXXXXX XXXX XX
Hanging
Wall Shelves
SHELVES
The free-floating design of these

shelves allows you to group them
in whatever arrangement suits
their contents and your space.
If you’re looking for shelving that’s attractive and
space-saving, then this project will fit nicely in your
home. The four-sided shelves hang securely on the
wall with hidden brackets. Plus, the low-profile
shelves can be grouped, so you can hang several
together without taking up valuable floor space.
The shelves can easily be modified to store bot-
tles of wine or wine glasses, as you see in the photo.
Just a few feet of wall space could be converted into
a mini wine bar to serve you and your guests.
Although these shelves are pretty easy to build,
there are enough woodworking techniques packed
into them to keep you challenged. For instance,
splined miters join the front corners, while tongue
and dado joints hold the back.
If the clean lines of these shelves don’t suit your
decor, then check out two additional styles for the
shelves, as shown on page 65.
Wall-Mounted Cleat. Hanging the

shelves is made easy with a two-piece
bracket that includes a level. Just
place the shelf over the cleat. Sources
are provided on page 98.

!/2
Building the
TOP !/4 BACK
VIEW VIEW !/2
Basic Shelf B !/2 B

#/8
!/4 D
!/4
C
2
Each shelf is just four sides and

!/2
a bottom panel. The sides extend
C
beyond the back to create a space
for the hanging bracket.
b. !/4
A !/2
SIDES. I started by ripping the C
front, back, and two sides to a. 23!/2
width. Next, I cut the pieces Optional cutouts

to length and mitered for wine rack
Back corners D
the front corners. Then are joined SHELF
with tongue B BOTTOM
I cut the slots for the and dado (10!/8" x 23!/2" - !/4" ply. ).
BACK
splines (box below). joints
SPLINES. To strengthen 2
the miter joints, you’ll
add 1⁄8"-thick cross- Corners mitered to
allow room for 24
grain splines. You can splines
find details on mak- E A
SPLINE FRONT
ing the splines in the (!/8" x 2" - !/2")
Online Extras. C
DADOES & GROOVES. The back SIDE
3!/4 3!/2
11
is joined to the sides with a
%/8 A
tongue and dado joint (detail ‘a’).
I started by cutting the dadoes Splines add glue Cutout made with
surface to strengthen 1!/4"-dia. Forstner bit
in the sides. The tongue on the mitered corners
back is cut to fit the dadoes.
c.
Next, I cut a groove on all the
workpieces to hold the bottom. WINE RACK. If you plan to turn to assemble the shelf. I used a 3⁄4"
GO
I set the rip fence and cut all the one of the shelves into a wine plywood spacer the same size
grooves at one time so that they rack, you’ll need to drill out the as the interior of the box to help Online
2
would be spaced identically. cutouts on the shelf front before keep the four sides square. Extras
BOTTOM. The bottom of each assembly. Take a look at detail ‘c’ After the glue is dry, trim the
shelf is 1⁄4" plywood. I trimmed and the photo in the box below. splines on the front corners with For a tip on
making cross-
the front corners of the bottom to ASSEMBLE THE BOX. With the work- a chisel. Some sandpaper will grain splines,
go to:
make room to insert the splines. pieces ready to go, you’re ready clean up any rough spots.
How-To: Shelf Joinery

!/4"-wide
Rip dado
Aux. fence blade
fence
#/8
Set blade
at 45˚ %/8
A #/8 !/4
C
!/4
Cut the Slots. The slots for the splines Back Corner Joinery. The dado that Wine Bottle Cutouts. Create cutouts for
can be cut on the table saw. Tilt the joins the back and sides can be cut with wine bottles by clamping the front to a
blade to 45° and raise it to 3⁄8". a dado blade on the table saw. scrap piece and drilling through the center.

!/2
Cap strip is
CAP attached after the
H frame
24
1!/2 !/2
a.
SIDE VIEW
!/2
2
G F
1
H 1
F
C
F B SIDE
24
#/8 G
FRAME
END F
SECOND: Cut
waste free with
hand saw
BACK VIEW b.
FIRST: Cut long !/2 F
edge on table Space holds This part is Waste
saw wall bracket attached to
wall
Attach 2 B
to shelf G
Level. A small
1 F
level is included
1!/2
with the wall
bracket for easier
installation.
Back & Frame Assembly
What makes these shelves hanging bracket. I glued up a CAP. Once you have the frame
unique is the invisible mount- frame for the back instead of try- in place, you can glue the cap to
ing system used to hang them ing to rout out a recess in a solid the back of the shelf, as you see in
on the wall, as shown in the left piece. This also saves lumber. detail ‘a.’ I added this cap to pre-
photo. The system uses a hang- After gluing up the frame, I cut vent the frame and bracket from
ing bracket that’s mounted in a a notch at each end to allow the being visible from the front.
recess in the back of the shelf. frame to fit over the sides of the BRACKET. The final step is to
FRAME. The recess for the bracket shelf (detail ‘b’). You can cut these attach the bracket. The two-piece
is created by gluing up a frame, notches on the table saw and fin- bracket I chose has one piece that
as shown above. This frame ish up with a hand saw. When is screwed to the back of the shelf
fits the back of the shelf and the frame is completed, you can (refer to Sources on page 98). The
is thick enough to conceal the glue it to the back of the shelf. second piece is attached to the

A Front (1) 1⁄ x 2 - 24
2
B Back (1) 1⁄ x 2 - 231⁄
2 2 H G
1⁄ x 2 - 11 !/2"x 3!/2"- 84" Poplar (2 Sq. Ft.)
C Sides (2) 2
1⁄ ply. - 101⁄ x 231⁄ SA CO C N B
D Bottom (1) 4 8 2
E Splines (2) 1⁄ x 21⁄ - 1⁄
8 4 2 #/4"x 5"- 60" Poplar (2.1 Bd. Ft.) F E
F Frame Top/Bottom (2) 3⁄ x 1⁄ - 24
8 2 J L J I H I I HQ
G Frame Ends (2) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 2 L
8 2
1⁄ x 1 - 24 !/4"x 12"- 24" Birch plywood
H Cap (1) 2
I Center Glass Rack (3) 3⁄ x 31⁄ - 11
4 2
J End Glass Rack (2) 3⁄ x 23⁄ - 11 D
4 4
• (1) 18" Cabinet Hanging Bracket w/Screws NOTE: Parts F and G are planed down to #/8"
• (20) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews thick. Part E is planed down to !/8" thick

Wine Glass Rack. By attaching
brackets to the bottom of a
shelf, you can transform it into
a handy wine glass rack.
wall and comes with a small

level that slides into a slot (left
margin photo on the opposite
page). This way, you’ll be able a. END VIEW b.
to attach the wall portion and
Zero Push
be certain it’s level. Be sure to clearance END
block
anchor the bracket to wall studs insert VIEW
#/4
or use wall anchors. Cut waste #/4 Tilt !/4
OPTIONAL WINE GLASS RACK. At free so it's blade
not trapped between 10°
this point, you could finish the the fence and blade 2
shelves, hang them on the wall #/8
brackets, and be done. Or you
can modify one of them to cre-
ate a place to hang wine glasses. c. 5!/4
FRONT VIEW
This modification takes a few
more steps than the wine bottle
rack, but it’s not complicated. 2 2
You’ll need to make two types

of brackets to complete the wine J I #/4
glass racks. The middle brackets !/2 2#/4 3!/2
are double-sided to hold glasses #8 x 1!/4" 1#/4 1#/4
Fh woodscrew
on either side. And the end the blade, hold the
brackets have just one side that bottom of the rack
holds the glass (detail ‘c’). against the rip fence, as shown in
BEVELS. After the bracket blanks detail ‘b.’ Then it’s just a matter
have been cut to size, you can of attaching the racks to the bot-
cut a kerf in the top, as shown in tom of the shelf with screws.
detail ‘a.’ Next, remove the waste Once you’ve put a finish on all
with a 10º bevel cut. To allow the of the shelves, all that’s left is to
waste to fall away safely from hang them on the wall.
Design Options
Changing the style of this shelf them 1⁄2" from the end of the
is as simple as altering the shelf and 1⁄8" apart in a square
choice of materials and adding pattern. They stand 1⁄16" proud.
a little detail to the front. It’s an The tenons fit into 1⁄4"-deep
easy way to match the shelves routed mortises in the front.
to the decor in your home. Traditional Style. The lower
Craftsman Style. The top photo at right shows a shelf
photo on the right shows a made from mahogany. I used
Craftsman-style shelf. I used a triple-bead router bit to make
quartersawn oak to make the the profile around the front and
shelf. The Craftsman look is cre- sides after the shelf was assem-
ated by adding four false tenons bled. You can find information
to the front on each end. The about this bit and the stains
1⁄ "-square tenons are cut to I used to finish both of these
2
expose the end grain. I spaced shelves in Sources on page 98.

Cabinet Doors. By adding a
pair of doors, you can trans-
XXXXXX XXXX XX
form this decorative wall shelf

into a display cabinet. Plans for
the doors begin on page 70.
SHELVES
Country Wall Shelf

Whether you leave the shelf open or enclose it with cabinet doors,
this project is great for storing all sorts of small items.
Building this project isn’t difficult. All you’ll need the project into more of a display cabinet, you can
is a weekend, a few boards, and a handful of hard- add a couple of doors (right photo above).
ware. Even the beadboard back and decorative top Adding doors increases the overall building time
are easy. The toughest part may be deciding which a little, but it really “dresses up” the project. And
version to build. You can leave the shelf open, as since the doors are just basic frames with glass pan-
shown in the main photo. Or, if you’d rather make els, there’s nothing complicated about them.

A Sides (2) 3⁄ x 71⁄2 - 315⁄8 • (24) #4 x 1⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
4
B Filler Strips (2) 3⁄ x 3⁄8 - 43⁄4 • (4) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
8
C Bottom Shelf (1) 3⁄ x 71⁄ - 251⁄
4 8 4
D Adjustable Shelves (2) 3⁄ x 7 - 241⁄
4 4 1x6 - 8' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine B
E Back Rail (1) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 251⁄ E
4 2 4 A A
F Top (1) 3⁄ x 91⁄ - 271⁄
4 2 2
G Cap (1) 3⁄ x 101⁄ - 293⁄ H
4 4 4 1x6 - 8' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine (Two Boards Needed)
H Front Rail (1) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 241⁄
4 2 2 G F A
• (2) Keyhole Hangers w/Screws 1x6 - 8' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine (Two Boards Needed)
• (8) Spoon-style Shelf Supports C D D
• (1 pkg.) Beadboard

7!/2 SIDE VIEW
Building the Sides

Regardless of which version you
1
FIGURE
6!/2
7!/2
5!/8
1
decide to build, it’s best to

start with the sides (Figure 2
15!/4
1). At 71⁄2" wide, I thought it A 2
A
best to glue up these pieces, SIDE
SIDE
NOTE: Shelf and
as well as all the other pieces back rail added later, #/8
over 6" wide. Sure, this takes see page 68 31%/8
a little more time, but it helps
FILLER 2
minimize any cupping. A
STRIP !/4"-dia.
After cutting these pieces SIDE 2 shelf pin
B
#/4 holes,
to size, I cut the dado for the #/8" deep
bottom shelf that connects
a.
the two sides at the bot- 4#/4
#/4" dado,
tom (Figure 2). You can set b.#/8" x #/8"
rabbet #/8" deep
Curved
your dado blade to the exact profile
SIDE
thickness of the stock, as I VIEW
did, or you can make it a bit Waste
NOTE: Cut mortises
smaller and sneak up on the for hinges only if
Mortise for adding doors,
final width of the dadoes in hinge ,
see page 70 for
multiple passes. mortise locations 3 !/2"
B
FILLER STRIP
With the dadoes cut, the next (#/8" x #/8") radius
thing to do is rabbet the sides
Aux.
for the back slats (Figure 3). You
want to end up with a stopped
2 fence 3
rabbet. But I began by rabbeting Dado for Aux.
the entire back edge of the sides bottom shelf A fence A
and then added a small filler SIDE SIDE
strip at the bottom of each. (These a. END VIEW a. END VIEW

should end up flush with the bot- #/4 #/8
tom of the dado, as in Figure 1b.)
CURVED PROFILE. Next, I worked A Dado
#/4" #/8 blade #/8
on the curved profile at the bot- dado blade
tom of each side piece. Laying out
these curves isn’t difficult. A 31⁄2"-
radius template will take care of
both parts of the curve (Figure 4). ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. Now all that’s You probably haven’t thought
You can cut the profile with a left is to drill a few holes for the much about the doors yet, but if
band saw or a jig saw. I stayed on two adjustable shelves, as illus- you plan to add them, now is a
the waste side and then sanded trated in Figure 1a. You could good time to cut the mortises for
up to the line with a sanding make a quick template to help the hinges, as shown in the box.
drum (Figure 5). This gave me a you do this. Or simply lay out
smooth curve and no ridges. and drill each hole individually.
4 Lay out 5 Clean

Hinge Mortises
first arc corner with
sandpaper If you’re adding
or file
the two doors,
the hinge mor- A
3 SIDE
tises can be cut
3!/2"-radius Sand
now. These are Mortise
template to line sized to match for hinge
3!/4 Auxiliary
5 Sanding the thickness of fence
drum
the hinge barrel.

FIGURE
6
6 Keyhole
#8 x %/8"
Fh woodscrew
a.
Shelves & Back Rail hanger SIDE SECTION
Keyhole
25!/4 hanger BACK
RAIL
With the side pieces com- E
plete, it’s time to add the 2!/2

E
shelves and back rail, as BACK RAIL
Dado for
shown in Figure 6. The keyhole
bottom shelf and the rail hangers, see Rabbet
Online Extra for back
are the two pieces here Spoon-style panel
shelf pins
that actually connect the #/4
D
sides. (The other two SHELF D b. SIDE SECTION
shelves are adjustable.) A
SHELVES. Like the sides, SIDE
24!/4 D
I glued up the bottom 7
SHELF
shelf and the adjustable
shelves from two pieces 25!/4
NOTE: Adj. shelves
(Figure 6). The bottom set back !/8" from
front edge
piece can be cut to size
right away, but it’s bet- C
ter to size the adjustable #/4 BOTTOM SHELF

7!/8 C
shelves after the other NOTE: For more on BOTTOM
keyhole hangers, refer SHELF
GO pieces are assembled. to the Online Extra
2
Online
BACK RAIL. Since there
isn’t anything more to do with rabbets across the ends of the rail, and drill access holes for each.
Extras the bottom shelf, I moved on to like you see in Figure 7. This process is described in more
the back rail next. This narrow The back rail will also help detail in the Online Extras.
For more infor- piece at the top, back corner of the hold the beadboard back later. ASSEMBLY. With the back rail
mation on using
keyhole hangers sides will hold the keyhole hang- Again, all you need to do is cut complete, the shelf is ready to be
to hang the wall ers that I used when it was time to another rabbet — this time along assembled. I started by gluing
shelf, go to:
WoodsmithSpecials.com mount the project on the wall. the back, bottom edge (Figure 8). the bottom shelf between the two
The back rail will fit into the Before assembling the shelf, I sides. Then I added the back rail
rabbets in the back of the sides. decided to get the back rail ready so it was flush with the top. Since
(It’s the same length as the bot- for the keyhole hangers. Often the rail holds the sides only at the
tom shelf.) But before the piece for these hangers, I have to cut back, you may want to cut a tem-
will fit, you’ll need to create some stepped mortises. Not this time. porary spacer to fit between the
tongues. This is done by cutting All you’ll need to do is cut a dado sides at the front.
ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. When the glue
7 Aux. fence
8 Inside
face
is dry, you can cut the adjustable
shelves to fit. There’s no need for
a tight fit here. I allowed for an
E E 1⁄ " gap at the ends and ripped
Auxiliary Auxiliary 8
fence BACK RAIL fence BACK RAIL
the shelf to width so it would set
back 1⁄8" from the front edge, as
shown in Figure 6b.
Dado
Dado blade blade TOP & BACK
Now that the assembly is com-
plete, the top and back of the
a. END VIEW a. END VIEW
shelf can be added. I started with
BACK RAIL
Aux. E
the top so that the staining and
E
fence
#/8
#/8" !/2 finishing could be completed
BACK before adding the back.
RAIL
#/8 E #/8 TOP & CAP. If you take a look at
Figure 9, you’ll notice there are
actually three layers at the top of
the shelf: a top panel, a cap panel,

FIGURE
plus a narrow rail that’s glued
9 10!/4
a. VIEW
END
Backer board
under the top. After gluing up 29#/4
two blanks, I began by cutting
the top and cap to size. CAP G !/4
Both the top and cap have a #/8" F
9!/2 bull-
profile routed along the front 27!/2 nose
edge and both ends. In each
TOP F !/2"
case, I used the router table cove bit
to create the profile, pushing !/2" cove
1 6
the workpiece with a square b. VIEW
END
Backer board
block to back up the cut (so
there’s no chipout). 1!/2
1
The top gets a cove profile
G
that’s routed with a 1⁄2" cove bit #/8
(Figure 9a). The cap gets what I
24!/2
call a bullnose profile, but you !/2"
don’t necessarily need a “bull- H Install roundover bit
nose” bit. To create the profile, I FRONT magnetic catches
RAIL only if adding doors
used a 1⁄2" roundover bit raised d. FRONT SECTION
3⁄ " above the table (Figure 9b).
8 c. SIDE SECTION 1!/8 G
ASSEMBLY. At this point, the top
CAP G
and cap pieces can be attached #8 x 1!/2"
TOP F Fh wood-
to the shelf. Both pieces are flush screw
with the back and are centered BACK RAIL
H E
side-to-side. The difference is that 2
FRONT RAIL
F 1!/8
the top is screwed to the sides of
the shelf (Figure 9d), while the
cap is simply glued in place. the stop. So if you do intend to If you’re building the doors
FRONT RAIL. While the glue on the build the doors, it’d be easier to shown on page 70, however, they
cap was drying, I cut a front rail to add the magnetic catches to this should be completed first.
fit between the shelf sides (Figure rail before gluing it in place. BACK. To complete the shelf, all
9). This piece is glued to the bot- FINISH. Before installing the that’s left to do is add the back,
tom face of the top and, if you’re beadboard at the back, it’s a good as illustrated in Figure 10. If you
adding the doors, it will serve as idea to add a finish to the shelf. want to use beadboard as I did,
there are a couple of products
10 First board is
centered on back a.
to choose from: solid pine or
primed MDF, as shown in Finishes.
the margin photo at right. Beadboard
If you plan on staining the is available in solid
#4 x !/2" back, you’ll want to use the pine or primed
Fh wood- pine slats. But if you plan on MDF, depending on
screw
painting the beadboard any- the type of finish
way, the primed MDF will you plan to use on
save you some work. the shelf back.
Trim off Regardless of the material
waste NOTE: you choose, the procedure
Beadboard
attached will be the same. I like the
with #4 b. spacing of the beads to end up
screws, see SIDE
detail 'a' SECTION the same at each side. So I start
with the center slat, lining up
#/8" one of its beads with the cen-
beadboard C
Trim off ter of the shelf. Then I work
waste
#4 x !/2" out toward the edges. Usually,
NOTE: For Fh wood-
sources of screw
the last piece on each end will
Beadboard beadboard, need to be trimmed before
see page 98
you can screw it in place.

Optional Doors
I don’t know if adding doors is the tenons are an even 1" long,
enough to change the name of and the rails are sized so that
a project, but they certainly do the doors will fit without a
change the overall appearance. gap between them. (They’ll be
So as soon as the doors had been trimmed to create the gap later.)
added to the wall shelf, I just MORTISES & TENONS. With the pieces
couldn’t call it a “shelf” anymore cut to size, the next step is to work
— it had become a “cabinet.” on the mortise and tenon joints
The nice thing is, adding doors that hold the frames together.
doesn’t complicate the procedure I mentioned that the tenons
all that much. To make things eas- were an even 1" long, but the mor-
ier, I did decide to cut the hinge tises are slightly deeper (11⁄16") to
mortises in the side pieces before make a little room for excess glue
assembly (as shown in the box (Figure 1a). To create the mor-
on page 67), and I also added the tises, I drilled overlapping holes
magnetic catches to the front rail with a Forstner bit and then
before attaching the rail to the top cleaned up the sides and squared
piece (Figure 9, page 69). Other- the ends with a chisel.
wise, everything is the same. The tenons are also simple (Fig-
SIZING THE DOORS. The two doors ure 1b). I cut mine with a dado
are designed to be mounted to blade, using an auxiliary miter
the front of the shelf with a 1⁄8" gauge fence to support the rails.
gap at the top of the doors (Figure ASSEMBLY. After you’re sure the
4a). And the door stiles are sized tenons fit the mortises, you can
so they’re flush with the square glue up the frames.
shoulder just below the bottom RABBET FOR GLASS. Before mount-
shelf, as indicated in Figure 1. ing the doors to the shelf, you’ll
As always, the length of the need to create an opening for
rails requires a little math. To the glass. This is done by rabbet-
make this as easy as possible, ing the inside edges of the door,
FIGURE
1 2
a.
B
#/8
2!/2 1!/4
2 NOTE:
Mortise 1!/16
is !/16"
deeper
than tenon A
27
for excess STILE
glue
!/4
!/4
b.
#/8
2
B
A A RAIL
2 STILE 1!/4 1
2
C
2 #/8
GLASS
NOTE: !/8" gap at top STOP 11
and between doors (#/8" x #/8") B RAIL

as shown in Figure 2. To allow
2 Move router
clockwise
clearance for the bearing on the
Rabbet
bit, you’ll need to set the frames for glass
on spacers (Figure 2a). And since
a round bit can’t cut a square cor-
ner, you’ll need to complete the
NOTE: Scrap NOTE:
corners with a chisel (Figure 2b). blocks used to Rout rabbet
HANG DOORS. When you’re ready raise door for in multiple
bearing passes
to hang the doors, set them in clearance
place and mark the amount to
trim off each center stile. The a. b.
goal here is for the gap between END SECTION
the doors to match the gap at the
top of the doors. Then screw STILE A
Square corners
the hinges into the mortises in the with chisel
sides of the shelf (Figure 4). Scrap block Rabbet bit set
With the hinges mounted to the !/2" deep
shelf, the trick now is to attach
the door to the hinges. For this, I
used double-sided tape. To keep
the hinge from folding in, you can
3 C GLASS
STOP a. END SECTION
(#/8" x #/8")
slip a temporary shim between C
the hinge leaves. Then position
the door over the shelf and press A
it against the tape. Now you’ll be

!/8"-thick glass #/4"-long brad
able to carefully open the door
and mark the screw hole loca-
tions on the door.
GLASS & STOP. At this point, the And to secure the glass, I made also the time to add the door
1⁄ "-thick glass can be ordered and the glass stop shown in Figure knobs and the strikes for the mag-
8
installed (which means the doors 3. But before tacking the stop in netic catches you’ve installed in
need to be removed). The glass place with brads, you’ll want to the front rail (Figures 4a and 4b).
I ordered was 1⁄8" smaller than stain and finish the project. Then After reinstalling the doors, the
the opening (in both directions). you can install the glass. Now is project can be hung on the wall
using the keyhole hangers.
4 SIDE SECTION
a.
Just make sure to use a sturdy
anchor if you’re not screwing
into wall studs.
!/8" MATERIALS, SUPPLIES

gap
C
Magnetic & CUTTING DIAGRAM
catch and 3⁄
strike A Door Stiles (4) 4x 2 - 27
B
2" x 1#/8" B Door Rails (4) 3⁄ x 2 - 11
4
hinge C 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 48 rgh.
C Glass Stop (1) 8 8
A
1!/4" wood
knob • (2) 1⁄8" Glass Panes (95⁄8" x 235⁄8")
• (1 pkg.) Wire Brads (3⁄4" long)
• (2) 11⁄4"-dia. Wood Knobs w/Screws
A
SIDE SECTION
b. • (2 pr.) 2" x 13⁄8" Ant. Brass Hinges w/Screws
• (2) 9⁄16"-dia. Barrel-Style Magnetic Catches
SIDE 1x6 - 4' No. 2 Ponderosa Pine (Two Boards Needed)
SECTION 1!/4"
wood A B
knob A B
NOTE: Knob is
centered on stile C C

XXXXXX XXXX XX
Dovetailed
SHELVES
Display Shelf
The details give this shelf its
distinctive look and offer some
interesting woodworking.
Just about everyone has some special trea-
sures or unique possessions to display. This
handsome wall shelf is a great place to show
them off. In fact, this project may become a
special treasure of its own.
First of all, the shelves boast sliding dove-
tail joinery. Second, the shop-made molding
is sure to draw attention in any room. And
finally, putting it all together will expand
your woodworking skills.
But this isn’t a project that will overwhelm
you. With step-by-step details on cutting the
joinery and making the trim, you’ll have this
beautiful shelf completed and ready for your
prized collection in no time at all.

A Sides (2) 1⁄ x 41⁄2 - 261⁄4 E Frame Sides (4) 1⁄ x 11⁄2 - 51⁄2 I Panels (2) 1⁄ ply. - 31⁄ x 161⁄
2 2 4 2 2
B Shelves (4) 1⁄ x 41⁄ - 16 F Frame Back (1) 1⁄ x 11⁄2 - 161⁄2 J Hanging Cleat (1) 11⁄16 x 3⁄4 - 153⁄8
2 2 2
C Filler Strips (3) 1⁄ x 3⁄ - 151⁄ G Front Molding (2) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 18 • (16) #6 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
2 4 2 4 4
D Frame Front (2) 1⁄ x 11⁄ - 181⁄ H Side Molding (4) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 51⁄ • (2) #8 x 2" Rh Woodscrews
2 2 2 4 4 4
• (12) 1" Wire Brads
!/2"x 5!/2 "- 72" Cherry (Two boards @ 2.8 Sq. Ft. each)
A B B
!/2"x 4!/2 "- 72" Cherry (2.3 Sq.Ft.) #/4"x 4"- 24" Cherry (0.7 Bd.Ft.)
D E E F C G
F H H
J
ALSO NEEDED: One - 24" x 24"sheet !/4" Cherry plywood

Filler strip provides
backing for molding
A
C
a. A FRONT
Building the Case

SIDE VIEW
!/4
A
Assembling the case comes first. B B !/2 #/8

It’s basically just two sides and
four shelves. But before you get Dovetail routed
on end of shelf !/2
started, I want to take a minute
to talk about the dovetail joinery
used to connect the pieces. b. SIDE SECTION
B VIEW
DOVETAILS. Each of the shelves is
1
joined to the sides with sliding
Dovetailed slot
dovetails (detail ‘a’). A dovetail routed in side 16
joint is a strong, attractive joint.
7
It combines abundant gluing sur-
face with mechanical strength.
26!/4
The result is a joint that won’t B
pull apart even if the glue fails. SHELF
Making a sliding dovetail joint 4!/2 NOTE:
Dimensions
is all about the setup. For details, locate
Filler strips are glued B #/4 dovetail 8!/4
see the How-To box below. in place after case slots
SIZING WORKPIECES. Getting the is assembled
workpieces ready comes first. As
you cut the sides and shelves,
NOTE: All pieces
make them a little wide to allow cut from !/2"-thick
15!/2 C hardwood
for tearout when routing the dove- C FILLER
tails. Later, you can trim them to 4!/2 STRIP
9
final width, leaving a clean edge.
SIDES. As you can see in the This will keep the shelves stable FILLER STRIPS. There are
A
drawings below, making a slid- and flat against the table. three other pieces to add
ing dovetail is a two-step process. ASSEMBLY. Assembling the case is to the case before it’s
I start by making the dovetailed just a matter of gluing the shelves ready to be trimmed out 1
slots in the sides. The spacing is and sides together. After tighten- — a top and two bottom 4!/2
shown in detail ‘b.’ ing the clamps, be sure to check filler strips (main draw-
SHELVES. To make the dovetails the assembly for square. Some ing). They add strength
on the ends of the shelves, I used glue squeezeout is unavoidable, and stability to the case. And they
a push block that rides along my so you’ll need to do a little clean- provide a base to attach the trim
router table fence (box below). up after the glue dries. that you will add next.
How-To: Rout a Sliding Dovetail Joint

NOTE:
Apply Aux.
downward
pressure
fence a. END
VIEW
Sliding Sneak
push up on
block fit
Keep
flat on
#/8" table !/4
dovetail
bit
Shelf slides
into sides
Backer
board
Sides. When routing the sides, keep Shelves. To rout the dovetails on the shelf ends, clamp Fitting. When you’re done, the
the workpiece flat against the router the shelf to a push block. This will keep the shelf firmly shelf should fit snugly into the
table to maintain a consistent depth. against the tabletop and prevent it from tipping. dovetailed slots in the side.

FRAME BACK #6 x 1" Fh woodscrew
1!/4
NOTE: All F
frame parts are
!/2" -thick stock E
FRAME SIDE
a. END VIEW
16!/2 3!/2 !/2
1!/2 D !/4 !/4" ply.
!/2
FRAME FRONT FRAME
1!/2
18!/2
E
5!/2 b. END VIEW FRONT SECTION VIEW

c.
!/2
NOTE: See !/16 F !/4" ply. I
How-To box
below for #6 x 1"
cutting tongue Fh woodscrew E
%/16
!#/16 B
NOTE: Only top frame back

A
is grooved
E
F SIDE SECTION VIEW d.
C D
Groove for B
Frame is hanging
attached with Filler strips
cleat form base
screws into sides
for frames and
C ogee trim
B
#6 x 1" E
Fh woodscrew D
NOTE: C
FRAME Glue lower
FRONT frame back Rabbet holds
to filler strip bottom panel
Trimming inside edge to hold a panel that front corners and joined with a
Out the Wall ShelfAll that’s left to complete the shelf

you’ll add later. I found it easier
to cut the rabbet on a long blank
and then cut the pieces to length
lap joint at the back. You can cut
the front frame piece to length
first and then miter the side pieces
is to add the trim. It’s made up of for the frames. You can cut the to fit. Finally, cut the back piece to
two separate pieces — a rabbeted rabbet on the table saw using a length and form the notches on
frame and an ogee molding. dado blade (detail ‘a’). the end (box at left).
FRAMES. The frame parts are flat MITERED JOINTS. The top and bot- GROOVE. The back piece of the top
workpieces with a rabbet on the tom frames are mitered on the frame has a groove cut in the bot-
tom (detail ‘b’). This holds the
How-To: Cut the Notches

hanging cleat that you’ll make
later. You’ll also need to cut a
slight chamfer on the back frame
piece (detail ‘b’). This chamfer
will make it easier to fit the shelf
Aux. over the cleat when it’s finished.
Aux.
fence fence a. Aux.
fence
END VIEW
ATTACH FRAME. Once you have all
as stop !/2 the frame pieces shaped and cut
to fit, you can attach them to the
F case. I used screws to attach the
Sneak up on
depth of cut front and side pieces of the frame
to the case (detail ‘c’). The back of
Notches on the Table Saw. Using a dado blade buried in an auxiliary the frame is simply glued.
fence, cut a notch on each end of the frame back. This will allow the OGEE MOLDING. The distinctive
piece to lap over the rabbets in the frame sides. look of this shelf is created by the
details. And a big part of this is

3!/2
TOP PANEL HANGING CLEAT
(!/4" Ply..) 16!/2 (!!/16" x #/4 "-15#/8")
J
I
the ogee molding. The molding a. END VIEW
is made at the router table using #/32 !/4
a 1⁄4" ogee bit. Since the molding OGEE
MOLDING
is narrow, I found it easiest to cut
the profile on the edge of a wide #/4
G H
board and then cut the molding #/32
Top panel
free, as shown in the box below. fits snugly
into recess #8 x 2"
#/4
Again, you can make one long Rh wood-
screw
piece of molding and then cut
it into lengths as you did earlier b. !/4 END VIEW
with the frame pieces. You’ll find !/32 d. SIDE SECTION VIEW
J
more information about dimen- #/16
sioning the molding in detail ‘a.’
ATTACH MOLDING. The molding is !!/16
J
mitered to fit around the bottom I
of the shelf unit. As you see in G

!/16 #/4 SIDE MOLDING
detail ‘d,’ it fits snugly in the cor- (#/4" x #/4" - 5!/4") G
ners formed by the case and the H I
top and bottom frames. I used c. J
brads to attach the side molding.
This allows for wood movement. NOTE: Attach front
ADD THE PANELS. Plywood pan- ogee molding first
els in the top and bottom frame NOTE: The
complete the shelf. They give it a SIDE #8 x 2" Rh side molding
SECTION wood- is attached
more finished look. Plus, this cre- VIEW with brads
screw
ates extra shelf space at the top.
The panels fit into the rabbets
on the top and bottom frames. than the groove in the frame to
Both panels are glued in place. allow for easier installation. If 18
NOTE: BOTTOM
CLEAT. To hang the shelf on a wall, you find it’s a little too large, just Glue front PANEL
molding I
all you need to do is make the lightly sand the rabbet. to case
cleat shown in detail ‘b’ above. THE FINISH. Once all the details are Mitered
The cleat has a rabbet cut on one completed, you can apply your corner is glued
G FRONT OGEE
edge that creates a tongue. This favorite stain or leave the wood MOLDING
tongue fits in the groove in the in its natural color. Either way, screws to attach the wall cleat, as
back frame piece. You can cut the three coats of finish will protect shown in detail ‘c.’ Then you can
rabbet on the table saw, as shown the wood from damage. lower the shelf over the cleat. All
in the right drawing below. I To mount the display shelf to that’s left is to add your favorite
made the tongue slightly smaller the wall, first use a couple of long collectibles to the shelves.
Make the Molding & Hanging Cleat a. Push

block
Aux. END
fence VIEW
!/4" ogee #/16
bit END Aux.
a. VIEW
Cut
free
b. fence Featherboard
G
G
H #/8"-wide J !/2
H
dado
blade
Rout both edges
of wide workpiece
Rout the Molding. After installing a 1⁄4" ogee bit in the router Make the Cleat. A dado blade will make short work of the hang-
table, cut the profile in both edges of a wide blank. Then cut ing cleat. Use a featherboard to keep the workpiece snug against
the molding pieces free on the table saw. the auxiliary fence while cutting away the waste.

XXXXXX XXXX XX
Five-Tier
Display Tower
SHELVES
The open “drawer” design of these

shelves offers a unique combina-
tion of storage and display.
A simple project with plenty of style, this ladder
shelf makes a great addition to any space. The tiered
shelves combine storage and display in one project.
The open design of the tower keeps everything at
your fingertips. No more searching for a pencil and
paper when the phone rings. Want your favorite CD
in the car? Just grab it on your way out the door.
What’s nice about this project is that you’ll need
just a handful of parts to complete it. There are two
ladder rails and 10 rungs. Five shelves, which are
built like drawers, are anchored to the rails. The
shelves vary in size, but the basic construction is the
same for each one, which makes this tower a quick
project to build for your home.
Router Dado Jig. This handy jig will help you cut the
dadoes in the rails with ease. Check out the Online
Extras to learn how to make and use it.

NOTE: All
parts are LAYOUT
10º Miter poplar
DETAIL
Making the Rails a. FIRST: Cut

10º miter
FIFTH :
Cut 10º
Taper
10º Taper
NOTE: Cut rails

The strength and stability of this SECOND: extra long,
Rout
3!/4 then miter both ends
project depend on the ladder-like dadoes to final length
structure that holds the shelves.
NOTE: Shelf
Since the rails are the backbone of See 2 opening
the tower, I started with them. box
below
RAILS. To make the rails, I began
3!/4 68
by ripping a couple of extra-long
THIRD:
blanks to width (right drawing). Drill %/8" FOURTH:
Once this is done, you can miter counter- Drill %/16"
bore, shank
the rails to length. The ends are ! /2" deep hole
mitered at 10° to allow the tower
to lean against the wall (detail ‘a’). 4!/4
DADOES. The rungs of the tower NOTE: All b. 56!/8
dadoes
are held in angled dadoes in the are 1"x !/2"
Shelf
rails. The key to a solid assembly 1 opening
is making sure these dadoes are 83! /2
accurately positioned.
A 1 4!/4
Since the rails are cut as mirror
43!/8
images, you’ll need to rout the
dadoes for the rungs in each rail !/2 Shelf
separately (layout detail). To do opening
this, I made a reversible jig that

works on both rails (lower photo, Once you have the
5!/4
opposite page). For details, refer counterbored holes
to the Online Extra. drilled, go ahead 30#/16
PREPARE TO ANCHOR. The final step and cut the tapers at
in making the rails is to prepare the top of the rails 1
the top ends for anchoring the (detail ‘a’). I found RAIL
shelf to the wall. To do this, I it easiest to cut this A
drilled the counterbored holes for taper on the band 3

16!/4
the bolts first. Although the shelf saw, leaving the NOTE: Rails
A are 1"thick
won’t be attached to the wall until layout line, and 3
later, it’s easier to drill the holes then clean it up with a sanding 10º Miter
while the rail is still square. block (How-To box below).
How-To: Make the Rails

Aux.
fence
NOTE: Waste
Miter A
gauge
angled NOTE:
to10° FIRST: Support NOTE:
NOTE: opposite
Use stand Drill !/2"deep Cut taper
counterbore end of on back of rail
to support workpiece
the opposite end with %/8"-dia. SECOND: Drill Cut to with band saw.
of workpeice Forstner bit %/16"-dia. waste side
shank hole of line
for anchors
Miter the Ends. Make the 10° miter Counterbore. After cutting the dadoes, Taper Cut. The final step is to cut the taper
cuts on the ends of the rails. A stand drill a counterbore in the edge. Then use on the top of the rail. This 10° taper allows
will hold up the end of the workpiece. the centerpoint to guide the shank hole. the rail to lean against the wall.

NOTE:
Adding the RUNG

B
1"-thick rungs
add strength
to shelf unit
Ladder Rungs
All that’s left to complete the
Square ends
provide a snug
fit in dadoes
ladder assembly is to add the

rungs. Each rung is identical and 1
is cut from 1"-thick stock. I added
16
an 1⁄8" roundover to the front and
!/8"
back edges of the rungs. roundover on
3 front and back
ROUNDOVER EDGES. After you cut edges only
the rungs to size, you can rout NOTE:
the roundover on the edges of Make 10
rungs Round over
the rungs (detail ‘a’). The rungs front and
back edges
are left square on the ends to fit at ends of rungs
securely into the dadoes you cut
on the ladder rails earlier.
ASSEMBLING THE LADDER. The rungs
b. RAIL
are glued between each pair of A SIDE VIEW
GO dadoes in the rails and stand
2
Online
proud of the edges of the rails
(detail ‘b’). During assembly, a. END VIEW
Extras I used spacers under the rails
to create a gap for the rungs. If B RUNG
You’ll find a you take a look at the box below, RUNG
pattern for the
display tower you’ll see what I mean. With the B
and information rails supported on spacers, you
on a router dado Use a spacer to
jig to help you can glue the rungs in place and center the rungs
build it at: !/4
on the rails.
WoodsmithSpecials.com clamp everything together. !/8" See Shop
FINISH. I applied a stain and fin- roundover Tip below
bit
ish to the ladder before I installed
the drawers. Applying the fin-
ish now means you won’t need
to work at getting the stain into
the corners once the shelves are
Shop Tip: Spacing the Rungs
added. Since the project is built
from poplar (it can have a green-
ish color), I used a cherry gel stain Place rungs
that evens out the color. in dadoes
3"x 17"
spacer a. SIDE VIEW
NOTE:
Spacers hold rails
above the work- A B B
surface and allow !/4
rungs to set in
place on rails
Spacer Spacer
Assembly. The rungs stand proud of the rails at both the front and
Match Wall Studs. The rails are spaced 16" on cen- back edges. To create this offset, and to make assembly easier, I
ter so the tower can be screwed to wall studs. Wall elevated the rails by placing them on 1⁄4" hardboard spacers.
anchors can be used if your stud spacing is different.

Building a.
SIDE
!/2 TOP
VIEW
b. SIDE VIEW
2
NOTE: Rails are 16"on
center to line up with
wall studs
the Shelves
To complete the project, I added
!/4 BOTTOM
SIDE
BACK
Top
shelves are #8 x 4" Rh
!/8 shallow for woodscrew w/
five enclosed shelves. I made the !/4 !/2 Drill and easier access flat washer
shelves enclosed so that objects countersink for
!/8 #8 x 1!/4" woodscrew
in them would be contained. As
I mentioned, the shelves are dif- FRONT/BACK
3!/4 H G
ferent heights, which just adds FRONT VIEW
to the appearance of the tower. c. #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew NOTE: Use
CHECK FOR SIZE. Each shelf is built wall anchors
if wall studs
to fit the individual openings do not
(drawing at right). So before you align
cut the workpieces to size, be
sure to measure for a good fit. If E
NOTE: Attach shelves F
you make each shelf 1⁄16" smaller to rails with screws 4!/4
F
I
than the overall opening, it will E
fit between the rungs easier. B d.
JOINERY. After the workpieces
are cut to size, you can cut the Card
holder is
locking rabbets that join the SIDE VIEW E centered on
Back of shelf shelf front
fronts and backs to the sides. I is set flush with
cut these on the table saw (detail top rung in
drawer opening
‘a’). While you have the dado B
blade installed, it’s a good time C D
SIDE BACK
to cut the grooves for the shelf
!/2"
bottoms, too. Finally, you can radius
1!/2" I
cut out the handles on the shelf radius
SHELF BOTTOM
fronts, as shown in the drawing NOTE: 1!/2 (Make 5)
All shelf 5!/4
at right. Then you can drill coun- parts are 14!/2 11!/2
tersunk screwholes on the sides made of !/2"
poplar C
of the shelves for the mounting (except 1!/4
bottoms) SIDE
screws (detail ’b‘). 15
4!/8
5!/4
FINISH. Again, I applied the stain NOTE: All shelf
D bottoms are the 11#/4
and finish to the shelves before same size and
SHELF
adding them to the ladder. Once FRONT made of !/4"ply
the finish is dry, you can attach
the card holders on each shelf. back edge of the upper rung MOUNTING. If the rails of the tower
ASSEMBLY. To assemble the shelf (detail ‘d’). Installing screws on align with wall studs, you can
unit, I placed each shelf in the either side through the counter- simply attach them with wood-
appropriate opening and aligned sunk holes will hold the shelves screws and washers (detail ‘e’).
the back of the shelf with the in place on the rungs (detail ‘c’). Otherwise, use wall anchors.
MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM ALSO NEEDED: One - 24" x 48"
sheet !/4" birch plywood
A Rails (2) 1x3- 831⁄2 • (10) #8 x 11⁄4"
Fh Woodscrews
B Rungs (10) 1 x 31⁄2 - 16 • (5) Card Holders !/2"x 9"- 60" Poplar (3.8 Sq. Ft.)
E E F F
C Lower Shelf Sides (2) 1⁄2 x 51⁄4 - 113⁄4 • (2) #8 x 4" Rh Woodscrews w/Washers E E F F
D Lower Shelf Ft./Bk. (2) 1⁄2 x 51⁄4 - 15
E Middle Shelf Sides (4) 1⁄2 x 41⁄4 - 113⁄4 1"x 7!/2"- 84" Poplar (5.5 Bd. Ft.) !/2"x 8"- 60" Poplar (3.3 Sq. Ft.)
F Middle Shelf Ft./Bk. (4) 1⁄2 x 41⁄4 - 15 B B B B B G G H H
B B B B B
G Upper Shelf Sides (4) 1⁄2 x 31⁄4 - 113⁄4
H Upper Shelf Ft./Bk. (4) 1⁄2 x 31⁄4 - 15 1"x 7"- 96" Poplar (5.8 Bd. Ft.) !/2"x 6"- 60" Poplar (2.5 Sq. Ft.)
I Shelf Bottoms (5) 1⁄4 ply. - 111⁄2 x 141⁄2 A C C D D

Racks
& Cases
Some items deserve storage designed specifically
for them. These racks and cases provide attractive
organization right where it’s lacking, and each
project can be completed in a weekend.
DESKTOP BOOK RACK ...................82
BARRISTER’S CD CASES .................86
COUNTERTOP WINE RACK.............92

Desktop
Book Rack
CASESXX
XXXXXX&XXXX
RACKS
With just a little time in the shop,

you can build this rack and add
storage almost anywhere.
Desks are magnets for clutter. While papers can be
filed away, my books and CDs needed their own
place where I could still keep them close at hand.
My answer is this book rack you see pictured here.
What makes this a great desk accessory is that
it packs a lot of storage without taking up a lot of
room on my desk. Its interlocking joinery requires
no fasteners. The adjustable divider slides along CD or DVD Rack. Keeping your books organized isn’t
grooves in the shelf and locks down firmly to hold the only use for this book rack. Its compact size is just
items in place. And a lot of its parts are identical, so right to hold your CDs and DVDs on an entertainment
construction and assembly are a snap. center or bookshelf next to a television.

NOTE: Rout
bullnose and
cut notches
after assembly
a. Groove in
end cap
2
Rabbets form
track for
T-connector
16#/4
#/16 b.
NOTE: Grain
Aux. on end caps run
fence Rabbets in different
cut on direction than
%/16 underside slats
of shelf
slats, see
!/4" dado detail ‘a’ 4
blade 1!#/16
c.
Building the Shelf #/8
What makes this rack easy to workpiece, then trimmed the end !/8
build is that the shelf and back are caps to their final size.
identical to each other. Each has RABBETS. With the grooves done,
two slats that are held together you can turn to the slats. Each 4
2
with end caps (drawing above). I slat gets a rabbet along one edge Use #/8"-thick
started with the end caps. (detail ‘b’). These will sit side by spacer block #/8 #/4
to maintain gap
GROOVES. I like to cut the grooves side when the rack is assembled during assembly
first because it’s easier to make to serve as the “track” for an
the tongues fit the grooves than adjustable divider (detail ‘a’).
the other way around. The TONGUES. Now, it’s time to cut the ASSEMBLY. The next step is to glue
groove is actually just a saw kerf, tongues that will fit into the kerf up the shelf and the back (detail
and it’s centered along the end you cut on the slats. Cut them a ‘c’). Then round over the outside
caps. Because the caps are short, little thick at first, then sneak up on edges of both assemblies, and cut
I cut the kerf into an extra-long the final thickness to get a snug fit. the notches (box below).
How-To: Bullnose Profile & Notches

a. Stop
block
a.
!/2"
roundover
bit
%/8
#/8
#/4 1!/2
NOTE: Use fence
to rout bullnose NOTE:
profile Use auxiliary
fence to back
up cut
Round Over the Edges. Soften the sharp outside edges of the Cut the Notches. Using a tall auxiliary fence and a dado
shelf and back by routing a bullnose profile with a roundover bit. blade, cut notches in the ends of the shelf and back.

Cut away
waste to make
divider
Draw lines flush with the

sides of notches to
Shelf assemblies lock
into half lap
a. determine divider outline
notches in sides
NOTE: Sides and

SIDE &
divider start out as
identical blanks
Making the Sides & Divider

With the shelf and back complete, Cut each blank before
you can start on the sides and the going on to the next
adjustable divider. stop (box below).
THE SIDES. The sides and the ADJUSTABLE DIVIDER.
divider start out the same, but the When all the cuts have
Divider
divider will need some trimming been made for the cut line
before it can be ready for the rack. sides, select one of the
So, the first step is to rough-cut three blanks to make
three blanks according to the tem- into the adjustable divider. THREADED INSERTS. If you take a look
plate shown at right. You’ll cut this blank down to fit at the opposite page, you’ll see
Then, lay out the final dimen- against the shelf and back. how the T-connectors and hard-
sions on one of the blanks. That’s The notches provide the start- ware go together. The first step
the blank to use as you set up ing point for cutting the divider is to locate where to install the
to cut each angle, notch, and to size (detail ‘a’). Then, you threaded inserts in the divider.
rounded curve. The trick is to can remove the waste and add To make this easier, I assembled
use an auxiliary fence and stop a radius to the corner you just the sides, the shelf, and the back
blocks with your miter gauge. made (template shown above). (drawing, opposite page). All you
How-To: Blank Construction Details

Waste
Blank
Use band
Use auxiliary fence saw to round
and stop block to cut off corners
angled part of blanks
Cut the Angles. To make the angled Notch It. Turn the blanks on edge and Round the Corners. The last step is to
cuts in the blanks, set your miter gauge cut the notches that will accept the round the corners of the blanks. A band
to cut a 15° angle and use a stop block. notches in the cradle shelf and back. saw makes this task quick and easy.

T-connector fits
in rabbeted track
in back of shelf
have to do is line up the notches
and slide the parts together.
Then, set the divider on the
Threaded
rack and mark layout lines on insert
the back and bottom edges. Next,
drill the holes for the threaded
inserts between those lines and
install the inserts (detail ‘b’).
T-CONNECTORS. T-connectors will
guide the divider along the rack. a.
Knurled knobs fit through the
connectors and into the threaded Loosen knurled knob
to adjust divider
inserts, which will hold it in place.
The box below shows how to
make the T-connectors. Because
of their small size, it’s safer to b.
make all the cuts in an oversized Layout
!/4-20 line
blank. Also, trim the connectors a threaded Brass
tad short, so they won’t bottom insert knurled
knob
out against the inserts.
FINAL ASSEMBLY. With the connec-
tors complete, disassemble the the cradle, place the connectors
rack to apply the finish. When in the grooves, and thread the Hole for
it’s dry, you’re ready for the knobs into the inserts to hold the threaded
insert centered
final assembly. Slide the notches divider (detail ‘a’). Finally, tackle on width
on the shelf and back into the your desktop clutter by putting
side notches. Set the divider on your book rack to use.

A Slats (4) 3⁄
4 x 113⁄16 - 163⁄4 • (2) 1⁄4"-20 x 1" Brass Knurled Knobs • (2) 1⁄4"-20 Brass Threaded Inserts
B End Caps (4) 3⁄ x 4 - 2
4
C Sides (2) 3⁄ x 7 - 71⁄ rgh.
4 2
D Divider (1) 3⁄ x 7 - 71⁄ rgh.
4 2
E T-Connectors (2) 3⁄ x 3⁄ - 23⁄
4 4 32
Shop-Built T-Connectors
Push
block Push !/4"- dia.
block drill bit
Aux.
fence
Dado
blade
T-connector
Making the Tongue. Stand the over- Cut them Off. Trimming the connec- Drilling the Holes. You can get
sized workpiece on edge to cut the tors a little short will pull the adjustable straighter holes in the connectors by
tongues for the T-connector. divider tight against the slats. using the assembly to steady them.
BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_084.indd 85 9/13/2011 8:51:19 AM

Barrister’s CD Cases
These cases work just like full-
CASESXX
sized barrister’s bookcases,

XXXXXX&XXXX
but their small size and handy

dividers make them just right
for storing CDs.
RACKS
Sometimes working on a smaller scale can be

a real treat. While building these barrister’s
CD cases, I really liked the fact that I didn’t
have to find room all over the shop to store
the workpieces. When I stopped for the day,
all the parts fit right on my benchtop.
Although these cases are scaled-down ver-
sions of barrister’s bookcases, there’s more to
making one than just shrinking all the pieces.
The smaller size means using different join-
ery than might be used on its “big brother.”
In fact, all the joinery is cut on the router
table with just a couple of straight bits.
FEATURES. But even though this project is
smaller and the joinery is a bit different,
these CD cases have all the features of full-
sized barrister’s bookcases. As you’d expect,
the glass-paneled doors pivot up and slide
into the cases to allow access. And the cases
can be stacked on top of each other. A raised
field on the top of each case “locks” into a
recess in the bottom of the case above it, as
shown in the inset photo.
BASE. Since a stack of cases filled with CDs Stack the Cases.
will be rather top-heavy, you’ll also need to The bottom of
build a weighted pedestal base, as shown in one case interlocks
the main photo at right. It has a compartment with the top of the
filled with sand to keep the stack stable. case below it.
MATERIALS & SUPPLIES

A Tops (2) 3⁄ x 71⁄ - 161⁄ H Glass Stop 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 42 In. in. • (1) 1⁄2" x 1⁄2" Brass Knob w/Screw Stud
4 4 2 4 4
B Bottom (1) 1⁄ x 53⁄ - 151⁄ I Back (1) 1⁄ ply. - 7 x 151⁄ • (1) 1⁄8"-thick Glass Panel (415⁄16" x 135⁄16")
2 4 2 4 2
C Sides (2) 1⁄ x 7 - 7 J Base Front/Back (2) 1⁄ x 5 - 16 • (10) 5⁄8" Brads
2 2
D Edging (1) 1⁄ x 3⁄ - 15
4 4 K Base Sides (2) 1⁄ x 5 - 63⁄
2 4 • (1) 1⁄4"-dia. Dowel, 4" long
E Dividers (3) 1⁄ x 53⁄ - 4 L Base Bottom (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 61⁄2 x 151⁄2 • (2) 1⁄4" Felt Dots
4 4
F Door Rails (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 1415⁄ • (4) #6 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
2 16
G Door Stiles (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 69⁄ Note: Materials listed are for one case and base • (4) #4 x 3⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
2 16

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS NOTE:
Each case
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: holds 32 CDs
16!/2" W x 7!/4" D x 13!/16" H (Base and one case)
TOP
Doors pivot up
and slide into
case on dowel pin
Raised field “locks”
Door “rides” in into recess in bottom
stopped dado of case above
Door rests on second
dowel pin when
slid into case Dividers keep
CDs upright
Case joined
NOTE: with tongues
All joints cut GLASS and dados
Dowel
on router table STOP pin BACK
SIDE
Brass knob
Edging for
case bottom
Case, door, and base are
solid wood. Back and base
Door assembled with bottom are plywood
half-lap joints
DOOR
STILE
SIDE SECTION VIEW Rabbets
BASE used to
BOTTOM join base
BASE
SIDE
BASE
FRONT
Case bottom
positioned to
create recess below Simple cutout
creates “legs”
of case
CUTTING DIAGRAM
#/4" x 7!/2" - 48" Cherry (2.5 Bd. Ft.) !/2" x 5!/2" - 24" Cherry
(2 Bds. @ .9 Sq. Ft. Each)
A A
J K
A A
Hollow base filled
with sand to stabilize
stacked cases !/4" x 6" - 24" Cherry (1 Sq. Ft.)
!/2" x 7!/2" - 48" Cherry (2.5 Sq. Ft.) G F
C C B E E E
C C B
ALSO NEEDED: One 18" x 18" piece of !/4"
D H plywood for back and base bottom

Rabbet on back 1!/4
edge is !/4" x #/16" deep
FIGURE TOP
1 Top is
#/4"-thick stock A a. BOTTOM VIEW
!#/16
!/4
!/4
16!/2 TOP
!/2 A
7!/4
1#/16
!/4
NOTE: Top, bottom, !/4"-dia.
and sides are glued up NOTE: Make an
extra top for hole, #/8"
from narrower stock deep !#/16 !/4
the base !/2
!/4"-dia.
%/8 dowel C
5#/4 !/4
SIDE b.
%/8
BOTTOM 1 !/4
7 B
!/4
SIDE
C 15!/2
Back C
edge !/4
NOTE: Top is
#/4" -thick stock.
c. C
FRONT VIEW
7 !/4 !/4
Sides and bottom
are !/2"-thick stock
B
!/4 !/4
Building the Case field on the top face. I decided to

4!/16
to clean up the rabbets, there’s a

Just like many full-sized barris- make this with a straight bit on quick tip in the left margin.
ter’s bookcases, these CD cases the router table. This means mak- At this point, the extra top you
are built in sections that stack up. ing a few more passes than you made for the base is complete
To make the sections interlock, a would with a dado blade, but and can be set aside. As Figure
Clean Up Rabbets. recess in the bottom of each case you’ll save a lot of sanding time. 1a shows, the case top still needs
To prevent rounding fits over a raised field on the case To start, I made a skim cut some dadoes and a rabbet for
over the edge as below it (inset photo on page 86). around each top panel to prevent joining with the other case pieces.
you sand a rabbet, TOP PANELS. Before you begin chipout. You can see this in Fig- I started with the dadoes that will
clamp a piece of building, you need to decide how ure 2. Then I set the fence to cut connect with the sides.
scrap next to the many sections you want. Glue the shoulder of the rabbets on the STOPPED DADOES. These dadoes stop
rabbet to help sup- up a panel for each top, plus one ends (Figure 3a). Once the ends short of the front edge, so they’re
port the sander. extra to be used later for the base. were done, I moved the fence to cut on the router table. (There are
TOP FACE. After cutting the top cut the rabbets on the front and three pairs of stopped dadoes on
panels to size (Figure 1), the first back edges (Figures 3b and 3c). If this project. Although they’re all
thing I worked on was the raised you need to do a bit of sanding different lengths, the process for
2 A
3 a. END VIEW
!#/16 Backer board
TOP Fence Straight
Fence Backer
Fence board End bit
A of #/16 A
TOP panel
!/2" dia.
straight bit a. END VIEW b. END VIEW
Backer board
c. END VIEW
Backer
!/2" dia. Fence !/4 board
#/16 1!/4
Straight bit straight bit
A Front Back
Skim cut helps #/16 A edge A
prevent chipout edge #/16
when removing waste

cutting them is the same.) Rout-
ing the dado on one side involves
4 Stop line
TOP
A 5
Stop Aux.
pushing the piece into the bit and line Fence
#/8
stopping (Figure 4). The second
dado is routed by plunging the !/4"-dia.
A
straight
workpiece onto the bit and push- bit
Measure from
ing it through (Figure 5). For more
details, refer to the Online Extras.
back edge of
straight bit a. Aux. !/2 END VIEW Start line
!/4 Straight
Fence bit
After the dadoes are cut, a
rabbet is routed between them. Piece is plunged
onto bit and
A
You can use the same bit used to See Online Extras for !/4 pushed through.
details on cutting See Online Extras
cut the dadoes. Just position the for details
stopped dadoes
fence flush with the back edge of
the bit, as you see in Figure 6. This
time, instead of drawing start and
stop lines on the fence, I marked
6 TOP
A
Aux. fence
the top of the workpiece to show
the locations of the dadoes.
BOTTOMS. Next, a 1⁄2"-thick panel a. Aux. SIDE VIEW
fence Dado
can be glued up for each bottom.
The bottom is narrower than the A
Mark dado location
sides and top (Figure 1). This on top of panel
leaves room for the door to hang
in front of the bottom panel.
After cutting the bottom to size,
rout a rabbet on each end to leave RABBETS. I routed the rabbets on Just remember to make new
a 1⁄4"-thick tongue (Figure 1c). the top and back edges first (Fig- marks on the router fence each
Later, three dividers will be ure 1b). The rabbet along the top time. If you look at Figure 1, you’ll
added to support the CDs. Each creates a tongue that fits the dado see that the lower dadoes stop far-
divider will rest in a dado routed in the top piece. And the rabbet ther from the edge than the upper
across the bottom, as shown in along the back edge will accept ones. Also, the lower dadoes are
Figure 1c. The front edge gets the back panel later. positioned so the bottom panel
covered by a piece of edging. DADOES. Next, you’ll work on the sits above the bottom of the sides.
SIDES. Now you can work on the stopped dadoes. There’s one near This creates the recess that will fit
GO
sides. Like the other pieces, these
are glued-up panels with stopped
dadoes and rabbets. But the sides
the top for the door to slide in and
another to hold the bottom.
The technique for routing these
over the raised field on the top
panel below (Figure 1c).
PIVOT PIN. To support the door
2
Online
aren’t identical — they end up as dadoes is the same one used ear- when it’s slid into the case, a
Extras
mirror images of each other. lier (refer to the Online Extras). short dowel needs to be added to For more
the inside of each side, as shown information on
routing stopped
7 NOTE: Back is added
after door is installed
in Figure 1. Then the four case
pieces can be glued together.
dadoes and
cutting half laps,
go to:
EDGING. Only a few pieces are WoodsmithSpecials.com
45˚ left to complete the case. First, to
angle E form the front edge of the recess,
E edging is cut to fit between the
5#/4
sides of the case (Figure 7). It’s
then glued flush with the top
4 edge of the bottom panel.
EDGING
D
DIVIDERS. Finally, I added three
DIVIDER vertical dividers so the CDs
E
2 wouldn’t fall over if the case
NOTE: Glue Edging and
wasn’t full. To make it easy to
15
edging flush with
#/4
dividers are grab a CD, I cut away the front
top face of bottom panel !/4" thick
corners of the dividers before
gluing them in place.

FIGURE NOTE: Door is
8 !/2"- thick stock
Building the Door

!/8"-thick
glass panel
!/4"-dia. H
dowel
Whenever I stand next to a barris-
ter’s bookcase, it’s hard to resist
opening and closing the doors at %/8 F
least once. The same holds true H
for this scaled-down version.

Although this door works the
G GLASS 13!%/16
same way as a full-sized one, it’s STOP 4!%/16 4(/16
b.
built differently. Instead of mor- H
tises and tenons, the small door 13&/16 F

can be joined with half laps. It’s 14!%/16 H
plenty strong — and there’s just F
DOOR RAIL
one setup needed to cut the joint. (1" wide)
To start, the rails can be cut to 6(/16
%/8" Glass
length so they’re 1⁄16" less than the a. END VIEW brad H panel
%/8"
!/4"round- GLASS
opening at the front of the case STOP brad
!/4" over bit
(Figure 8). The stiles are cut to (!/4" x !/4") H
F
length to allow the back corner to G F
clear the bottom panel when the G NOTE: Predrill DOOR STILE
!/4" holes in glass (1" wide)
door is opened. stop for brads SIDE SECTION
VIEW
HALF LAPS. Like the other joints on
this project, I cut the half laps on
the router table with a straight bit,
as shown in Figure 9. This joint
9 Backer
board
is easy to make (with just one Aux.
fence
a. END VIEW
!/2"
setup). But there are still a few F Aux.
fence straight
tips to pass along, which you’ll bit
1 Backer
Stop find online. Once the joints are board
!/2"
cut, you can glue up the door. straight bit !/4
F
Glass Stop. The To provide clearance as the
glass stop can door is swung open, a 1⁄4" round- NOTE: For more on cutting
half laps, refer to the Online Extras
be cut with two over is routed on the top outside
passes on the table edge of each door (Figure 8a).
saw. I use a zero DOWEL PINS. The doors pivot dowel fit a bit tight, I chucked it Next, I made some stop to
clearance insert and slide with the help of a pair in my drill and sanded it lightly hold the glass. You can do this
around the blade. of dowel pins that travel in the to reduce its diameter. safely on the table saw by fol-
stopped dadoes in the side pan- ADD GLASS. The next thing to lowing the steps illustrated in
els. As you can see in Figure do is add the glass panel. To do the left margin. Once you’ve
10a, the holes for the pins are this, I routed a rabbet around the ripped enough stop to size to fit
centered on the thickness of the inside face of the door to accept around the door, it can be cut to
door. This puts the hole right in the glass. As you can see in Fig- length, as shown in Figure 8.
the joint line. So to prevent any ure 11, this is done on the router Although it’s tempting to
splitting, I did a couple of things. table with a rabbeting bit. Then install the glass now, it’s a good
First, I clamped the door to my the corners of the rabbet can be idea to apply a finish to the case,
bench (Figure 10). Then, since my squared up with a sharp chisel. door, and glass stop first. I wiped
!/4" x !/4"
10 Clamp across joint
to prevent splitting 11 rabbet
&/16 Routing
#/8 a. direction Rabbet DOOR PANEL
CROSS SECTION
a.
!/4" drill bit bit
!/4 Rabbet
bit
G Waste
F
!/4
CROSS SECTION
!/4"drill bit

#4 x #/4" Fh woodscrew
FIGURE
12 15!/2
NOTE: Install door
before attaching back
on a couple coats of a one-step oil a. BACK VIEW
and urethane top coat. 1
Once the finish is dry, the glass
can be installed. To prevent the
7 I
glass stop from splitting, I pre-
BACK #4 x #/4" Fh
drilled the brad holes. I
woodscrew
The last few items have to be #6 x 1"
Fh screw
added to the door after it’s in BASE
place, so go ahead and slide the BACK
door into the case from the back
J A
BASE TOP
b. TOP VIEW
(Figure 12). Then center a knob

K
on the bottom rail and add a cou-
Top is flush with
ple of felt dots to keep the door back of base, with
from banging (Figure 12c). 15!/2 !/4" overhang
BASE SIDE on sides and front
BACK. Now to complete the case, K L
a 1⁄4" plywood back can be added. BASE BOTTOM

J
As you can see in Figure 12, it’s
BASE FRONT
cut to fit the opening in the back 6!/2
and is held in place with small
A
screws. This way, you’ll be able
to remove the back if the door 2!/4 5 16 NOTE: Base pieces
ever needs to be repaired. 6#/4 5 are !/2"-thick stock. BASE PATTERN
Base bottom and back
are !/4" plywood
BASE
J K
As mentioned earlier, a stack BASE TOP VIEW
Brass knob 2#/4 1"
of cases filled with CDs can be radius
top-heavy and unstable. That’s
Felt !/8" chamfer
where the weighted pedestal base dot J
shown in Figure 12 comes in. K
PEDESTAL BASE. The pedestal base

CROSS SECTION c. d.
105 °
starts with four pieces of 1⁄2"-thick
stock. The base front, back, and in Figure 14. Just move the rip fastened the pieces together with
sides can all be cut to size (Figure fence slightly between passes to double-sided tape and sanded to 1!/2
12). The side pieces fit into rab- widen the groove. the line with a sanding drum.
bets cut in the front and back, so I CUTOUT. To lighten the look of the BOTTOM. Now you can dry assem-
routed these next (Figure 13). base, a cutout on each piece forms ble the base pieces and measure
After that, a groove needs to “legs” at the corners. If you look for the base bottom. Once it’s cut
be cut in each piece to accept the at the pattern in the margin, you to size, the base pieces and the
plywood bottom that’s added can see how this is laid out. The bottom can be glued together.
later. I did this on the table saw shape can be roughed out on the Building the base with a rabbet
with a regular blade, like you see band saw or with a jig saw. Then I joint makes assembly easier but
leaves a small line of end grain
13 Backer
board 14 exposed on the sides. There’s a
simple trick that will make this
J end grain virtually disappear.
J
Just chamfer the corners of the
base, as shown in Figure 12d.
Before screwing on the extra
!/2"straight bit
top that was made earlier, fill the
base with sand. Then soften the
a. END VIEW a. END VIEW
!/2 !/2" Backer !/4" exposed edges of the base with a
straight board 2!/4 Ply. light sanding and apply a finish.
bit
nce
/4" J Barrister’s Design. Like a barrister’s
#/8 J
bookcase, this project calls for glass-
paneled doors and a separate base.

CASESXX
XXXXXX&XXXX
RACKS
Countertop Wine Rack

This simple project is functional, stylish, and easy to build. It’s also the
starting point for bigger and more versatile modular cabinets.
One thing that attracted me to this wine rack is its Another option is to expand it into the wine
modular design. The stand-alone project shown in server or buffet shown on pages 96 and 97. By add-
the photo has a lot of style and can be completed ing a new base for support and altering the interior
fairly quickly. Or you can use it as the foundation design of a few of the cases, you can change the
for a number of more elaborate options. function and appearance significantly.
Building two or more of these basic units allows For now, we’ll concentrate on the countertop wine
you to combine them in different ways. For start- rack. The interlocking gridwork of dividers may
ers, you can stack them one on top of another or look like a puzzle at first, but you’ll find it’s quite
arrange them side by side. You can even do a com- easy to make and assemble. And since the dividers
bination of both if you’d like. aren’t glued together, finishing the parts is a snap.

19!/8 12%/8 PANEL EDGING
Drill and countersink
G TOP 1 ( !/8" x #/4" stock)
D
from below for #6 SIDE SECTION VIEW
x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew b. #/8" #/8"
2 G
D 2 bevel bevel
#/32" chamfer
%/8
B
17%/8 E
TOP #/4
FRONT !/4 E
B TRIM
A TOP
CASE TOP Side FRONT
PANEL CASE SIDE A
rabbet TRIM
(11 x 16%/8) PANEL F
13%/16
SIDE
A
13(/16 FRONT
TRIM
c. #/4
G TOP
10#/4
CASE SIDE D D
PANEL C
CASE BOTTOM
E
PANEL #/8
BOTTOM
16%/8 FRONT !/4
TRIM #/8" bevel !/4
around
perimeter B
of top CASE TOP
a. !/4
!/4
A
PANEL
11 F
!/4
!/4 %/8
SIDE C !/4 C
NOTE: Case panels are E 1
#/4" plywood. Case top FRONT
is 1"-thick hardwood TRIM #/32" D
D
SIDE chamfer
!/2
SECTION VIEW FRONT SECTION VIEW
Assemble the Case

Before you work on the divider to accept the 1⁄4" plywood back Then add the trim pieces. You’ll
assembly, you’ll need to build the that you’ll add later (detail ‘b’). notice in the drawing above that
case that holds it. For a sure way to square things the top and side trim form a lip to
The basic component is a 3⁄4" up when you assemble the case, keep the dividers in place, while
plywood case. The key to using check out the box below. the bottom trim is flush with the
this case as a building block for PANEL EDGING & TRIM. Now you’ll bottom panel (detail ‘a’).
different storage options is in the add the panel edging that covers TOP. Next, you can make the top.
design. You can see what I’m talk- up the plywood edges on the top After cutting a 3⁄8" bevel along all
ing about in the drawings above. and bottom of the sides (detail ‘c’). four edges, just screw it in place.
CASE JOINERY. The joinery for the
Shop Tip: A Square & Smooth Case

case is a simple tongue and dado,
but it’s important to pay atten-
tion to the location of the dadoes.
The top and bottom dadoes are
different distances from the ends Square the Case. L-shaped corner
of each side (detail ‘c’). clamping squares (drawing at left)
What this does is recess the bot- ensure a 90° corner joint.
tom to provide a space for a posi- 90° Sanding Block. The sanding block
Clamping
tioning plate that’s used when squares (below) eliminates the possibility
stacking another case on top (page of cutting into the plywood veneer
96). The top panel sits proud to when sanding the edging strip.
allow for some hardwood edging
that will cover up the ends of the Sandpaper
plywood, as in detail ‘c.’
Once you’ve cut the dadoes in
90° Edging
the side panels, you can rabbet
the ends of the top and bottom
panels to fit. Then, before assem-
bling the case, cut a rabbet along
the back edge of the top and sides

BACK
SLATS H
J CENTER SLATS NOTE: Slats are made
Making the Dividers I HORIZONTAL

SLAT
from hardwood
planed to fit notches
At first glance, the divider assem-

bly shown at right appears more
difficult to build than it actually
is. But the process is really noth- J
ing more than making a few dif- I CENTER
SLAT
ferent sized slats and then cutting
identical notches in each one.
SOLID ASSEMBLY. The notches
are the key to forming a solid
assembly when you fit the
dividers together. For a J
good, tight fit, you’ll need CENTER
3#/4 3!/2
SLAT
to accurately locate and !/2 I
size each notch. But don’t HORIZONTAL
SLAT
worry, there are a couple of 2 FRONT SLATS H
tips to ensure that every- 11#/4
3!/2
thing comes out just right. 1
1
CUTTING THE NOTCHES. The
I
table saw and a dado blade 4&/8
4&/8 HORIZONTAL
SLAT !/2
make quick work of cutting
GO 3!/2
2
Online
identically sized notches.
You can get a perfect fit
between the notches and
H BACK SLAT
3#/4 3!/2
16
3!/2 3#/4
Extras
slats by making a test notch and — like backing up the workpiece DIVIDER ASSEMBLY. Once you
For tips on then planing your stock to match with an auxiliary fence to pre- have all the notches cut, you can
cutting the (refer to the Online Extras). vent chipout. Another good tip assemble the dividers and make
notches and
planning the To ensure that the locations of to help accurately reference the a test fit in the case. After making
dividers, go to:
all the notches are consistent, it’s bottom of each slat is to use the any “tweaks” for a smooth, slid-
a good idea to make a reference rip fence as a stop. ing fit, disassemble the dividers
mark on the bottom of each slat Usually you’re not supposed and set them aside until you’re
before you start. You can see how to use the rip fence and the miter ready to apply a finish to them.
I did this in the box below. gauge at the same time. But the All that’s left to complete the
You’ll also see a couple of cuts you make for each notch wine rack is to build the base
other handy tips in the drawings don’t go all the way through the and add the back that keeps the
for cutting clean, crisp notches workpiece, so it’s okay to do this. divider assembly in place.
How-To: Interlocking Notches

3!/2
H I
HORIZONTAL Miter
Aux. fence 3#/4 gauge
!/2"dado SLAT Center
blade Top 3#/4 notches
notch
H
a. H
!/2
1 !/2" dado
END blade !/2"dado
blade Aux. fence
VIEW backs up cut
Slat Bottom Notches. Cut the lower Slat Top Notches. Notch the upper end Horizontal Slat Center Notch. Finally, cut
notches on each of the front, back, and of the vertical slats, as well as both ends the center notches of each of the horizon-
center slats with a 1⁄2"-wide dado blade. of the horizontal slats. tal slats at the centerline of the slat.

Completing the Base L
Case
1#/4
BACK
APRON
The wine rack sits on a base M K
made by wrapping hardwood BASE PANEL

(11" x 17")
aprons around a plywood panel.
This provides a stable support 1#/4
for setting the rack on a counter-
top, a tabletop, or anywhere else K
#8 x 1!/2"
you might want to locate it. FRONT Fh woodscrew
APRON
APRONS. I started on the base by 18 12
cutting the front, back, and side
aprons to final width. But I left L
NOTE: Rails are made from
#/4"-thick hardwood, base panel SIDE
them a little long so I could cut is made from #/4" plywood APRON
them for a perfect fit later.
To join the aprons to the panel,
you’ll need to cut a groove along a. #/16 b. Case front
the top inside edge of each apron trim
!/4"
#8 x 1!/2" Case chamfer
(drawing at right). Then to match Fh woodscrew #/16
side
the look of the front trim, cham-
fer the top outside edge of each M !/2 M
BASE PANEL BASE PANEL
apron, as you see in detail ‘a.’ !/4
BASE PANEL. The next step is to cut !/4 2 K
FRONT SIDE
the base panel to final size. Then FRONT L SECTION
SECTION VIEW APRON VIEW
cut a rabbet along each edge of SIDE
APRON
the panel, sneaking up on the fit
until the tongue just slips into the
grooves you cut in the aprons. and ‘b’ above. Just don’t tighten It’s held in place with screws,
To complete the base, all you the screws too much. Since but no glue. This way, you can
need to do is miter each apron there’s a gap between the base remove it any time you’d like.
piece, “wrap” it around the base panel and the case, tightening the FINISH UP. Before attaching the
panel, and then glue it in place. screws too much can pull the bot- back, apply a finish to all the parts.
ATTACH THE BASE. Attaching the tom down and bow the case. Once that’s complete, reassemble
base to the case is just a matter ADD THE BACK. All that’s left to the dividers and slide them into
of installing screws through the complete the wine rack is to cut place (photo below). Finally,
bottom, as shown in details ‘a’ the plywood back panel to size. screw the back on and you’re
ready to slip your wine bottles
a. in place — and maybe even relax
with a glass of your favorite.
!/4
Top
panel
N
BACK PANEL
N
BACK
PANEL
13%/16 !/4
#6 x #/4"
Fh
2 woodscrew
Bottom
!/2 panel
17#/8
Installing the Dividers. Since the dividers are not glued
SIDE together, it’s easy to apply the finish. After assembly,
SECTION VIEW
NOTE: Back panel is they slide straight into the case from the back.
made from !/4" plywood

A Case Side Panels (2) 3⁄ ply. - 11 x 135⁄ I Divider Horizontal Slats (4) 1⁄x 47⁄8 - 16
4 16 2
B Case Top Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 11 x 165⁄ J Divider Center Vertical Slats (3) 1⁄ x 47⁄8 - 113⁄4
4 8 2
C Case Bottom Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 103⁄ x 165⁄ K Base Front/Back Aprons (2) 3⁄ x 2 - 18
4 4 8 4
D Side Panel Edging (4) 1⁄ x 3⁄ - 11 L Base Side Aprons (2) 3⁄ x 2 - 12
8 4 4
E Case Top/Bottom Front Trim (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 175⁄ M Base Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 11 x 17
2 8 4
F Case Sides Front Trim (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 139⁄ N Back Panel (1) 1⁄ ply. - 135⁄ x 173⁄
2 16 4 16 8
G Top (1) 1 x 125⁄8 - 191⁄8 • (6) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
H Divider Front/Back Vertical Slats (6) 1⁄ x 2 - 113⁄ • (12) #6 x 3⁄4" Fh Woodscrews
2 4
#/4" x 6!/2" - 72" Cherry (3.3 Bd. Ft.)

I I I I
F
E
#/4" x 5" - 36" Cherry (1.3 Bd. Ft.)
K L
K L #/4" - 24" x 48" Cherry Plywood !/4" - 24" x 24" Cherry Plywood
D
#/4" x 6!/2" - 60" Cherry (2.7 Bd. Ft.) A B M
N
H H
J J J H H
H H
A C
1" x 5" - 60" Cherry (2.6 Bd. Ft.)
G G G
Design Options: Server & Buffet

For most projects, the first thing you do is decide on
the size. For example, if you’re building a bedroom
dresser, you have to decide on the number of draw-
ers and the overall size — small or large. Either way,
once you’ve completed the project, you can’t change
it. But that’s not the case with the countertop wine
rack shown on the previous pages.
Modular Wine Server. Instead, think of the wine
rack as a building block. You can stack and arrange
several racks in a variety of configurations. Take a look
at the photo at left, and notice how you can create
a free-standing, yet compact wine server by adding
a second case. Replacing the simple base (shown on
page 95) with a raised platform base turns it from a
stack of cases into a fine piece of furniture. Complete
plans for the base are available in the Online Extras at
WoodsmithSpecials.com.
Custom Add-Ons. There’s more to this modular
design than simply adding and arranging additional
cases. For the inside of the cases, you don’t need to
stick with the gridwork to hold bottles. The cases
can be left open for storage and display. Or you can

GO
2
Online
For complete plans for these
design options, go to:
Extras
build some of the accessories shown in the pho- Full-Sized Buffet. Best of all, the modular system
tos on these pages. You can add a shelf to divide a can change and grow along with your storage needs
case, simple wineglass holders, or a hanging drawer. and wine collection. A striking way to do this is shown
(Refer to the Online Extras.) There’s one thing I’d like in the photo above. Six cases combine to triple the size
to note about the accessories: To keep the arrange- of the wine server and form a full-sized dining room
ment stable, it’s always a good idea to have the buffet. The plans for this alternate design option are
gridwork and bottles stored in the lower cases. also provided online.

Project Sources
MAIL Most of the materials and sup- CLASSIC MODULAR BOOKCASE WIDE-SCREEN TV CABINET
ORDER plies you’ll need for projects in The bookcases on page 16 can add You’ll notice that pocket screws
SOURCES
this book are available at hard- a lot of storage space to any room. were used to assemble the base of
Woodsmith Store ware stores or home centers. For For the open bookshelf units, I the TV cabinet on page 40. I used
800-444-7527 specific products or hard-to-find used 1⁄4" walnut shelf supports #7 x 11⁄4" fine-threaded screws
items, take a look at the sources from Rockler (33902). And I pur- (38502) from Rockler.
Rockler
800-279-4441 and part numbers listed here. chased the cabinet leveler brackets You’ll also need some hard-
rockler.com I should also mention that (01S04.01), leveler feet (01S06.02), ware for the drawers and doors.
manufacturers and retailers peri- 1⁄ "-20 x 13mm threaded inserts I used Blum full-inset 120° self-
4
Amana Tool
800-445-0077 odically redesign or discontinue (00N11.13), 1⁄4"-20 x 30mm quick- closing hinges (00B15.24). And I
amanatool.com items. So, you’ll want to gather connect bolts (00N16.30), and 1⁄4"- installed a set of 32mm (01X43.22)
all the hardware you need before 20 x 50mm quick-connect bolts and 96mm (01X43.24) pewter
Benjamin Moore
800-344-0400 you get started. It’s easy to adjust (00N16.50) from Lee Valley. double bar pulls. A pair of 16"
benjaminmoore.com dimensions or drill different-sized If you’re adding drawers and full-extension slides (02K36.16)
holes to suit your hardware. doors, you’ll need some addi- was used to mount the large cen-
Classic Designs by
Matthew Burak tional hardware. The stem bum- ter drawer. All of this hardware
800-843-7405 3-IN-1 BOOKCASE per drawer glides are from Rockler was ordered from Lee Valley.
tablelegs.com
Of the three bookcases featured (28373). The rest of the hardware is I stained the top and base with
General Finishes on page 8, only the traditional from Lee Valley. This includes the General Finishes’ Gel Stain (Java)
800-783-6050 style bookcase requires special bin pulls (02W30.28), mushroom and applied a wiping varnish to
generalfinishes.com
hardware. The needed items can knobs (02W30.24), antique brass the rest of the cabinet.
HangMan Products be obtained from Lee Valley. This no-mortise hinges (00H51.02),
818-610-0487 includes two oil-rubbed bronze plastic retainer clips (00S07.02), HANGING WALL SHELVES
hangman-
products.com ring knobs (02W11.11); two pair magnetic catches (01L05.20), To attach the hanging wall shelves
of 2" finial-tipped, no-mortise #4 x 1⁄2" Fh antique brass screws (page 62) to the wall, I used a
Lee Valley hinges (00H52.22); two 1⁄2" rare- (01Z10.41), and #4 x 1⁄2" Ph antique two-piece mounting bracket from
800-871-8158
leevalley.com earth magnets (99K31.03); two 5⁄8" brass screws (01Z20.41). HangMan Products (CBH-18).
magnet cups (99K32.53); and two The project is stained with I stained the shelves with Gen-
Varathane 5⁄ " magnet washers (99K32.63). Wood Kote Jel’d Stain: two parts eral Finishes’ Gel Stain (Java). The
8
varathane.com
800-323-3584 To rout the raised panels on the cherry to one part dark oak. Craftsman version of the shelf,
cherry bookcase, I used a Timber- shown on page 65, was stained
Wood Kote line bit (420-30) by Amana that I CURVED-FRONT BOOKCASE with Varathane Early American.
woodkote.com
800-843-7666 purchased at the Woodsmith Store. For the bookcase featured on And the shelf with the beaded
The feet for the country and the page 26, I used Minifix connectors front was stained with Varathane
ZAR traditional bookcases came from (22161), and some 1⁄4" shelf sup- Cabernet. To rout the profile on
ugl.com
570-344-1202 Classic Designs by Matthew Burak. port pins (22765) from Rockler. I the beaded shelf, I used a triple
For the country bookcase, I used also used iron-on edging (91695) beading bit by Amana (54213).
the Newport bun foot (461-BF). The to cover the plywood edges.
traditional bookcase uses Queen FIVE-TIER DISPLAY TOWER
Anne feet (481-F and 481-B). LIGHTED DISPLAY CABINET The display tower on page 66 pro-
The three bookcases have dif- You’ll need a few items to com- vides handy storage and display
ferent finishes to match their plete the display cabinet on page space. The card holders (01A57.91)
styles. The Craftsman bookcase 34. The pocket lights (39705) are on the front of the shelves came
was stained with a mixture of from Rockler, and the door knobs from Lee Valley. The stain is General
two parts Wood Kote cherry stain and escutcheons (01A23.76) are Finishes’ Georgian Cherry.
to one part dark oak Jel’d Stain. from Lee Valley. The 1⁄4"-thick bev-
The country bookcase was eled glass (with a 1" bevel) used for DESKTOP BOOK RACK
painted with Benjamin Moore’s the doors was obtained locally. The only special-order hardware
Misted Fern and Woven Jacquard. The mixture of equal parts Java items needed to build the desk-
The stain applied to the tradi- and Georgian Cherry Gel Stain top book cradle are the brass
tional bookcase was a blend of from General Finishes makes the knurled knob (70003) and the
three parts ZAR cherry stain with poplar look like walnut. Sprayed 1⁄ "-20 threaded inserts (33183),
4
one part cherry Jel’d Stain. lacquer completes the finish. which I ordered from Rockler.

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ABINETS HELVES Back By

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Editor: Terry J. Strohman

Managing Editors: Vincent Ancona, Bryan Nelson

Executive Art Director: Todd Lambirth

Creative Director: Ted Kralicek

Sr. Photographers: Crayola England, Dennis Kennedy

Single Copy Sales: Lisa Trom, Sandy Baum

New Media Manager: Gordon Gaippe

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2 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

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www.woodsmith.com Vol. 28 / No. 168

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Woodsmith.com ORDER ONLINE ShopNotes.com

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_002.in3 3 11/17/2009 2:26:56 PM

Classic Modular Bookcase 16

4 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_004.in4 4 11/13/2009 2:01:18 PM

Wide-Screen TV Cabinet 40 Country Wall Shelf 66 Barrister’s CD Cases 86

Craftsman-Style Cabinet 50 Dovetailed Display Shelf 72 Countertop Wine Rack 92

Five-Tier Display Tower 76

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_004.in5 5 11/13/2009 2:01:37 PM

any room decor or any size library. You’ll ﬁnd

that each project has special features that

present interesting woodworking challenges.

3-IN-1 BOOKCASE ...........................8

MODULAR BOOKCASE ..................16

CURVED-FRONT BOOKCASE .........26

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_006.in7 7 11/13/2009 2:13:59 PM

One basic design can take on

8 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_008.in8 8 11/10/2009 3:53:05 PM

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_008.in9 9 11/3/2009 10:22:31 AM

10 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_010.in10 10 11/3/2009 10:26:02 AM

ADJUSTABLE SHELVES. All that’s left to

How-To: Pocket Hole Basics

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_010.in11 11 11/10/2009 3:54:11 PM

MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM

J Back Frame Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 63⁄4 - 311⁄2

12 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_012.in12 12 11/11/2009 12:31:23 PM

BookcasesCabinets&Shelves_012.in13 13 11/3/2009 10:24:47 AM

14 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

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RAISED-PANEL DOORS no-mortise hinges. At that point,

MATERIALS, SUPPLIES & CUTTING DIAGRAM

J Back Frame Center Rail (1) 3⁄4 x 63⁄4 - 311⁄2

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16 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

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Hardwood top rail

End pieces are

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Building the Basic Case

18 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES

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Decorative Base & Top

20 BOOKCASES, CABINETS & SHELVES