MEET310

BASIC MECHANICAL ENGINEERING 1 LEC

GREENHOUSE BUILDING

Submitted by:
Jimuell Matthew Balagao
November Carl Jabujab
Rolando Raval III
What is greenhouse building?
A greenhouse (also called a 'glasshouse', or, if with sufficient heating, a hothouse) is a structure
with walls and roof made chiefly of transparent material, such as glass, in which plants requiring
regulated climatic conditions are grown. These structures range in size from small sheds to
industrial-sized buildings. The interior of a greenhouse exposed to sunlight becomes significantly
warmer than the external ambient temperature, protecting its contents in cold weather.

Many commercial glass greenhouses or hothouses are high tech production facilities for
vegetables or flowers. The glass greenhouses are filled with equipment including screening
installations, heating, cooling, lighting, and may be controlled by a computer to optimize
conditions for plant growth. Different techniques are then used to evaluate optimality-
degrees and comfort ratio of greenhouse micro-climate in order to reduce production risk prior to
cultivation of a specific crop.

History of greenhouse building

The idea of growing plants in environmentally controlled areas has existed since Roman times.
The Roman emperor Tiberius ate a cucumber-like vegetable daily. The Roman gardeners used
artificial methods (similar to the greenhouse system) of growing to have it available for his table
every day of the year. Cucumbers were planted in wheeled carts which were put in the sun daily,
then taken inside to keep them warm at night. The cucumbers were stored under frames or in
cucumber houses glazed with either oiled cloth known as specularia or with sheets of selenite
(a.k.a. lapis specularis), according to the description by Pliny the Elder.

In the 13th century, greenhouses were built in Italy to house the exotic plants that explorers
brought back from the tropics. They were originally called giardini botanici (botanical gardens).

The concept of greenhouses also appeared in the Netherlands and then England in the 17th
century, along with the plants. Some of these early attempts required enormous amounts of work
to close up at night or to winterize. There were serious problems with providing adequate and
balanced heat in these early greenhouses.

The French botanist Charles Lucien Bonaparte is often credited with building the first practical
modern greenhouse in Leiden, Holland, during the 1800s to grow medicinal tropical plants.

Experimentation with the design of greenhouses continued during the 17th century in Europe, as
technology produced better glass and construction techniques improved.

Greenhouse structures adapted in the 1960s when wider sheets of polyethylene film became
widely available. Hoop houses were made by several companies and were also frequently made
by the growers themselves. Constructed of aluminum extrusions, special galvanized steel tubing,
or even just lengths of steel or PVC water pipe, construction costs were greatly reduced. This
resulted in many more greenhouses being constructed on smaller farms and garden centers.
Polyethylene film durability increased greatly when more effective UV-inhibitors were
developed and added in the 1970s; these extended the usable life of the film from one or two
years up to 3 and eventually 4 or more years.

Things to be consider when building greenhouse

 Ventilation
Ventilation is perhaps the most important component in a successful greenhouse. Without
proper ventilation, greenhouses and their plants become prone to a myriad of problems. This is
because ventilation serves four major purposes within the greenhouse. First of all, it helps
to regulate temperature. It also ensures that your plants get plenty of fresh air that they can use to
photosynthesize. Additionally, good ventilation prevents pest infestations and will encourage
important pollination within the greenhouse. If you find your plants struggling in any of these
areas, selecting the proper fans and vents for your greenhouse can help to alleviate the problem.
  Temperature Regulation
Temperature regulation can be as simple as opening windows and letting heat out. Heat tends to
build up in the summer, creating an unhealthy environment for plants. Fans, shade cloth and
windows in the ceiling that open help minimize heat buildup. In the winter, you must make
provisions for cloudy days. In a small greenhouse, a small electric heater may be enough to keep
the temperature from dipping to dangerous levels. Alternatively, a heat collection system barrels
of water, black concrete blocks, or thick concrete will warm as the sun hits it. In the night or on
cloudy days, it will slowly release the accumulated heat back into the greenhouse.

 Supplemental heat
The basic principle of a greenhouse are simple. Sun streams through the windows and warms the
surfaces inside the greenhouse. The glazing traps the heat, keeping the temperature inside the
greenhouse warmer than outside. It's the details that go into building a greenhouse, however, that
make the difference between a houses than can raise the temperature a few degrees and one that
can turn winter into summer.

 Orientation
When orienting your greenhouse, pay attention to the path of the sun and the way that path
changes through the year. Build south or southeast of existing structures or large trees. The ideal
location will get as much sun as possible throughout the winter. A deciduous tree that partially
shades the greenhouse during summer afternoons can help the greenhouse stay cool. In the
winter, when the tree drops its leaves, the greenhouse will get the extra sun it needs to stay
warm.

 Materials
No matter what glazing you choose, you will need to make trade-offs. Glass lasts a long time if it
isn't broken by weather or accidents. Fiberglass is more resistant than glass to accidents, but it
tends to discolor, limiting light penetration. Polyethylene is inexpensive and has good light
penetration, but it is a poor insulator and rarely lasts more than a few years. Acrylic lasts better
than polyethylene, is not as susceptible to accidents as glass and doesn't discolor like fiberglass.
Acrylic is, however, expensive. Also your greenhouse house floor can be bare dirt, concrete or
gravel. Concrete is the easiest to keep clean. It does mean, however, that you will need to plant
all of your plants in containers. You won't be able to have beds in the ground. Bare dirt allows
for not only benches but also an indoor garden. Bare ground tends to make for a muddy
environment, and it can harbor insects and unwanted microorganisms. Gravel traps moisture
without creating mud, so it improves the greenhouse environment. Like concrete, however, it
doesn't lend itself to indoor garden beds.
Types of greenhouse designs

1.1 Conventional / Post and Rafter greenhouses

Description: The Post and Rafter design along with the A-frame are two of the most
common greenhouse structures due to the simple construction of embedded post and rafters. This
design is among the strongest with the rafters lending support to the roof. As the design is top-
heavy, the frame must be footed, which will increase costs relative to other design options.

Covering material options: Typically glass, however rigid translucent polycarbonate glazing
panels are now being used in many kits (lowering the overall cost relative to glass).

Pros: Simple straightforward design. Maximize usage of space along the side walls. More
efficient air circulation, particularly alongside walls.
Cons: Requires more material (wood and metal) vs. other designs.
Ideal location: Open field/backyard, south facing.
1.2 A-Frame

Description: One of the most common greenhouse structures, the key advantages are its
simplicity of design and minimization of materials versus other similar structures (Post &
Rafter). The popularity really falls on the simplicity of combing and roof and side walls together
to create a singular triangular structure.

Covering material options: Typically glass, however rigid translucent polycarbonate glazing
panels are now being used in many kits (lowering the overall cost relative to glass).

Pros: Simple straightforward design. Less material used relative to the Post and Rafter design (its
most comparable design alternative).

Cons: Narrowing side walls limits the functional use of the entire greenhouse footprint. Air
circulation can also be problematic in the corners.
Ideal location: Open field/backyard, south facing.
1.3 Gothic arch

Description: A variation of the Quonset design, it includes a semicircular frame manufactured

from galvanized pipe or conduit. The frame is circular and usually covered with plastic sheeting.
Covering material options: Plastic sheeting

Pros: Simple and efficient construction design. The use of plastic sheeting reduces the overall
design costs substantially. The shape of the design allows water and snow to be shed from its
exterior.
Cons: Sidewall height is low, which restricts storage space and headroom.
Ideal location: Open field/backyard, with north-south orientation.

1.4 Hoop house

Description: The hoop house gets its name from its shape, although houses can be constructed
with straight lines using elbows to get the desired shape of the structure. Hoops are made from
aluminum pipes or plastic PVC pipes and covered with a single layer of polymer plastic
covering; a second layer may be added for better insulation. Hoop houses are considered one of
the most inexpensive designs, with overall construction often less than $1 per square foot.
Covering material options: Plastic sheeting

Pros: Easy to build and adapt to small land units. It is inexpensive relative to other designs. The
shape of the design allows water and snow to be shed from its exterior.
Cons: Design is inherently not as sturdy as the A-frame or Post and Rafter.

1.5 Lean-to greenhouse / Attached greenhouse

Description: This greenhouse shares a wall with your residence, traditionally built off the back of
the home, but can be built on the side depending on the orientation of the home.

Covering material options: Glass is typically used as the greenhouse structure is attached to the
home.

Pros: As the greenhouse shares a wall with the home, overall construction costs are lower
relative to stand-alone glass greenhouses (A-frame, pillar and rafter). Lean-to greenhouses are
also closer to available electricity, water and heat.

Cons: Temperature control is more difficult because the wall that the greenhouse is built on may
collect the sun’s heat, while the greenhouse wall windows may lose heat rapidly.
Ideal location: The greenhouse should ideally be attached to the side of the home with a southern
exposure.

1.6 Window greenhouse

Description: Called garden windows, greenhouse windows or even bay windows, they are an
excellent option for growing herbs and small plants within the home. Instead of being a normal
single pane of glass, the window juts off the exterior wall of the home allowing maximum light
penetration. Typically these designs have windows that open on both sides, allowing maximum
air ventilation. One consideration of plant layout within the garden window is water runoff.

Covering material options: Glass is typically used as the greenhouse structure is attached to the
home.

Pros: Maximizes the usefulness of windows within the home, and relatively inexpensive year-
round growing option versus a standalone greenhouse structure.

Cons: Given the limited space, growing options are limited to herbs and smaller plants.

Ideal location: The greenhouse should ideally be attached to the side of the home with a southern
exposure.
1.7 Windowfarm

Description: A windowfarm is a vertical, indoor garden that allows for year-round growing in
almost any window. It lets plants use natural window light, the climate control of your living
space and organic “liquid soil.” It is a form of vertical hydroponic farming.

Pros: The windowfarm system is truly DIY, maximizing the opportunity for people to grow their
own fresh produce regardless of where they live (backyards not needed). By far the cheapest
option with starter kits costing less than $199.

Cons: A hydroponic system requires more components (pumps, tubes, nutrients) and
maintenance than a typical soil-based greenhouse.
Ideal location: A southern-facing window is the ideal location for a windowfarm system.
1.8 Cold frame

Description: Used to extend the gardening season, the cold frame is the simplest (and by far the
cheapest) greenhouse option. A cold frame is a structural cover over your garden (glass or
plastic) to protect your plants from excessively low temperatures, wind, snow and rain.

Covering material options: In true DIY spirit, anything goes (glass, plastic sheeting), the main
requirement is that any covering should be able to be opened to allow heat ventilation.

Pros: The cold frame is one of the most popular designs because of its simplicity, a bottomless
box with a skylight. And the costs are quite manageable—many simple designs are constructed
using old windows and scrap wood.