Professional Documents
Culture Documents
/GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
2/GREEK ISLANDS
Contents
02-06 Publisher
The Greek Dyo Deka Ekdotiki
Islands Editor in Chief
Michalis Michael
08-10
Getting There Articles Editor
Daphne Papadopoulou
12-14 Creative Director
Off The Beaten Christos Tzovaras
Track
Designers
Vanessa Ferle
16-49 Kostas Stanellos
Mykonos
Illustrations
50-77 Dreyk The Pirate
Santorini Photographers
Spyros Staveris
78-87 Shutterstock
Paros
Coordination
Markella Andrikaki
88-95 Xenia Stasinopoulou
Antiparos
Text Correction
96-107 Olga Kariotis
Naxos
Sales
Demetra Passomenou
108-123 Ismini Vourdaha
Syros Kostas Mantas
George Lykourgiotis
124-131 Akis Michalopoulos
Ioulia Valsami
Sifnos Spiros Apostolopoulos
Nefeli Kitsiou
133-135 Voula Karavaggeli
Serifos Selja Ternova
Produced by
136-145 DYO DEKA
Koufonissia EKDOTIKI SA
22 Voulis st.
146-153 Syntagma Square
Athens 105 61,
Amorgos Greece
www.lifo.gr
154-159 For queries or comments
Tinos email us at info@lifo.gr
160
Useful tips
The
Greek
islands
4/GREEK ISLANDS
Travelling towards the buy a bottle of water the street, is the quay open, like a gapping
Greek islands is an ex- and some savoury where all the ferry mouth, devouring the
perience in itself. You bites for the trip. The boats dock. Yours is small, slow-moving
arrive at Piraeus port sun is burning hot and right there, its name figures of the tourists.
by train, panting and you see that the only is written on the side. A young port official
sweating, with a large thing separating you You cross the street in is blowing a whistle
backpack pressing from your dream holi- a rush and find your- and gesturing wildly
persistently against day is a busy, noisy self right outside your to the car drivers to
your spine. You walk two- way street. On boat. The large metal move faster. Cars
to the nearby kiosk to the opposite side of hatchway is wide roll up the hatch and
/ THE
phone, drink some freddo. A couple sit- ranging from ancient
GREEK
ISLANDS
water and try to cool ting next to the funnel Greek and Roman
FOR down. The deck of the are chewing oily pastry ruins to crumbling
VISITORS / boat feels like a laid pies and two guys Venetian fortresses and
back United Nations in front of them are darkened volcanoes.
disappear into the belly conference room, with taking selfies with their Some are designated
of the beast. You check non-stop chatter echo- mobiles. for wild times; others
the time, take out your ing in half a dozen lan- Though popular are as quiet as an
ticket and join the line guages. At one corner, islands like Mykonos, upscale city suburb;
of hopefuls wishing to a couple of dogs are Paros, Naxos and some have beaches that
escape the dreary city. sniffing the small pools Santorini are served could feature in a sun
You slowly make your of water gathered from with frequent flights block commercial and
way up the narrow earlier maintenance and boat services, others take you back
stairways of the boat work. Theres a lot others require a good in time.
to reach the open of noise coming from deal of patience and This is not an exhaus-
deck, because thats below. Cars and trucks high spirits as you may tive guide of the Greek
where the best views are honking their find yourself cruising islands. With around
are and where you horns; port police are through the blue 1,400 islands, 160-227
avoid the TV screens shouting unintelligible waters of the Aegean of which are said to be
blasting Greek TV orders. Suddenly, it for eight or 14 hours. inhabited, a complete
dramas. This is the seems theres a light If you ever wanted to guide would look more
important part: Your wind blowing, cool- catch up on your read- like Encyclopaedia
eyes scan the deck like ing your forehead. ing, this is the time. Britannica than this
a laser beam to find The boat is moving. The uniqueness of the cute, portable maga-
an appropriate shelter Youre off to the Greek Greek islands rests in zine. The guide focuses
from the relentless sun islands. their privileged loca- on the Cyclades; a
and a potential spot to As you watch the tion, their sheer vari- wild mixture of light,
lay down for a nap, if city disappear in the ety, their trademark stone and dryness
needed. You avoid any horizon, seagulls start architecture with its which constitutes the
groups of more than circling the boat, hop- blue-and-white paint countrys most visited
four teenagers who feel ing to secure a morsel and the unbeatable region. Theres also
the need to share their of bread thrown by a combination of daz- an entry from the
music and intimate sympathizing traveller. zling sunlight, glinting Saronic Gulf Aegina
conversations with The small caf at the blue sea and warm, - one from the islands
others. You zero in on back of the deck sells golden sand. of the northeastern
a spot and make a run bucket loads of the Inhabited since Aegean Ikaria - and
for it. Once seated, you ubiquitous frapp antiquity, they offer one from the Sporades
inspect your mobile coffee and cappuccino a variety of sights, - Skiathos.
6/GREEK ISLANDS
photos by spiros staveris
8/GREEK ISLANDS
Getting to and from
the islands
/ THE Cruising in tissa I travels to all the This is followed by
GREEK
ISLANDS style islands (Cyclades, lunch on the boat and
FOR
Island hopping is Sporades, Dodecanese then passengers are
VISITORS / and Ionian) and can shipped to the island
the standard way of
visiting the islands and be hired for 7 or 14 on a dinghy boat to
most people opt for days. Aegiotissa II spend the rest of the
For air tickets: the ferry option, but covers all the Greek day there. The atmos-
There are three daily theres a more stylish, islands as well as the phere on the boat is
flights to/from Athens convenient and easy coast of Turkey and relaxed and friendly,
with Aegean Airlines way to travel around the Peloponnese. The guests have the op-
(www.aegeanair.com) the Aegean and explore Corsaro is the newest portunity to lie on a
and three to/from secluded caves and in the small fleet and sun lounger on one of
Athens with Olympic beaches. Aegeotissa was built as a replica the decks, eat at the
Air (www.olympicair. Yachts is a family run of 17th century pirate dining room or have
com). Check the air- company specialising ships, causing many a drink at the bar.
lines websites as more in cruises around the heads to turn when it For more information
return flights are added Aegean with tradition- appears at a harbour. on specific departure
on Sundays. al wooden yachts. The Its itinerary focuses on dates, cruises, cabin
For live information on company owns three the Ionian Islands and charters and prices you
arrivals and depar- boats; Aegeotissa I, Ae- specifically to places can email Stephanie
tures, check Athens geotissa II and Corsaro where pirates used to Areli at aegeotissa@
International Airports Del Santa Maura. The travel and hide. gmail.com, or call at
website (www.aia.gr) first two are a 34- and The yachts (Ae- +30 26450 23983.
Weather fore- a 40-metre-long yacht giotissa I & II) cover They also have a web-
casts: Check the respectively, which can one island per day. site (www.aegeotissa.
National Meteoro- accommodate 20-24 The day starts with gr). Their Facebook
logical Service (www. passengers in separate breakfast on one of the page is www.face-
hnms.gr) and click on cabins, equipped with decks and swimming book.com/pages/
the English button at air condition and their at a secluded beach aegeotissa-yachts/
the top right. own toilet. Aegeo- until the afternoon. 123861574303407.
10/GREEK ISLANDS
Off
the
beaten
track
Apart from islands which feature every year Anafi Its main village, Hora,
in travel and lifestyle magazines and attract Anafi is a small is a 10-minute bus
the bulk of visitors, the last couple of dec- gem of an island, ride away from the
ades attention has shifted towards less visited better known as the port, Agios Nikolaos.
destinations, like Anafi, Ikaria, Kimolos and next boat stop after A whiff of oregano
Folegandros, to name but a few. These have be- Santorini. Its proxim- floods your nostrils
ity to its famous all over Anafi and it
come favourite destinations for people who are
neighbour (just an is said that the island
tired of the usual tourist trail and are eager to
hour on the ferry) has produces some of the
lay their towel on a secluded beach and explore best thyme honey.
rendered it increas-
villages which offer a glimpse of traditional Make sure you buy
ingly popular, so go
life. Some of these islands may require three there while its still some, together with
days to discover, others can be criss-crossed in unspoiled from mass a variety of Mediter-
24 hours. You do not need a guide for these tourism. The island is ranean herbs from
islands. All you need is reasonable shoes, plenty perfect for relaxa- the tourist shops at
of sunblock and an adventurous spirit. tion and, to that end, the main port. The
boasts some beautiful islands geological
beaches like Megalos highlight is a tall
Roukounas, the monolithic rock jut-
longest and busiest, ting from the eastern
Klisidi a small cove end of Anafi. The
with a whitewashed 420-metre formation
chapel overlooking the is Mt. Kalamos and
beach as well as the on its top sits an aban-
more secluded Flam- doned monastery with
orou and Katsouni. indescribable views
12/GREEK ISLANDS
photos by spiros staveris
Panigiria in Ikaria
of the Aegean. If you 90) and their unique the village of Hristos, and golden sand and
like hiking it is well sense of time, which Rahes on 6th August, Seychelles, a beach
worth the walk, but is a diplomatic way when celebrations are in southern Ikaria
start early in the day of saying that shops known to turn wild whose nickname aptly
to avoid the heat of open and close at with traditional music describes it. One point
noon and bring water irregular times: some and locals dancing to remember is that
and food. For more open at noon, others the famed Ikariotikos sea currents in Ikaria
information check at night and others dance. The island also can be very strong
www.anafi.gr. choose to close at celebrates on 15th and a number of
3am. Life is definitely August at Langada drownings have been
Ikaria easy going and if village. Ikarias famed reported. If youre
Ikaria is an oddball youre ok with that, hot mineral springs travelling with kids,
of an island, mostly you will enjoy your are reputed to relieve make sure theyre
preferred by laidback stay on the island. symptoms of arthritis not left unattended
youngsters. It belongs There are two ports, and rheumatism and have a second
to the northeastern Evdilos and Agios and are located at person watching you
cluster of islands and, Kirikos - the quiet Therma, just outside while youre in the
with a size of 255 capital of the island of Agios Kirikos. The water. Take a day trip
square km, is consid- and a good place to island's best beaches to nearby Fournoi
ered as medium sized. start your walks. The are at Armenistis, Nas islands to complete
Ikarians are known best time to visit is preferred by nudists your experience. For
for their longevity (the during one of Ikarias and Prioni, formed more information,
island was added to famous panigiria by a series of secluded check
the Blue Zones of the (festivals held on natural coves. Wind- www.island-ikaria.
planet - places where saints days). The surfers prefer Mesakti com.
most locals live over most famous is held at for its strong winds
/ THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS /
Folegandros
Kimolos and further down you landscape and scenic Hikers will enjoy
Time also seems to will see the massive, main village attracting the clearly marked
have forgotten the mushroom-shaped eclectic visitors. The footpaths criss-
picturesque island of stone formation called meandering alleys of crossing the dry land.
Kimolos. Life here Skiadi. In Horio, the Hora, perched on a Folegandross beaches
moves slowly with small Archaeological high rock overlook- are mostly rocky and
locals gathering in Museum traces the ing the Aegean, lead small but the waters
quaint squares and history of the island the visitor through are crystal clear. Two
children playing through many arte- three consecutive of them are reachable
carelessly for hours. facts and pictures, small squares, flanked by car: Karavostasi
Horio the main while the 19th century by whitewashed the main port and the
village is a pleas- church of Panagia houses and colour- beaches close to it -
ant surprise, with Odigitria right across ful wooden doors. and sandy Angali, but
its winding streets, the museum houses Cars have thankfully for the rest you will
picturesque squares the old Byzantine icon been banned from need to walk along
and flower-filled of the Virgin Mary. entering the village, dirt paths for as long
yards with striking Along the coast of Ki- so the only traffic as an hour or take
fuchsia bougainvil- molos you will often you will encounter one of the small boats
leas growing against find fishermen repair- is locals going about which service them.
white walls. Go there ing their nets and their business. Your Remember to carry
by noon and the only cleaning their boats. walk will bring you plenty of water and
sound you will hear in Take a day trip to to the medieval kastro a few sandwiches as
the village is the mo- uninhabited Poliegos (=castle), whose walls none of those beaches
notonous buzz of the Island for a swim at nowadays form part have shops nearby.
cicadas which seem its beautiful beaches of the surrounding The island has rather
to disregard the quiet and explore the aban- houses. There are limited accommoda-
hours. The rest of the doned monastery and several small tavernas tion options which
islands settlements the lighthouse. Kimo- and cafs scattered raise prices, especially
are inhabited mostly los can be reached by around the village of- in August, so remem-
during the summer daily ferry services fering traditional food ber to book ahead
and include the small from nearby Milos. (soft souroto cheese, of your arrival. The
port of Psathi, and For more information, matsata spaghetti) and island has only one
the sandy beaches of check desserts (sweet water- ATM, so remember
Prasa, Goupa, Aliki, www.kimolos.gr. melon pie) to hungry to bring cash. You
Dekas and Bonatsa. visitors. The second can rent a car or
Sights of interest Folegandros settlement is the agri- motorcycle at the port
include the fortress Folegandros is the cultural Ano Meria, of Hora. For more
of Paleokastro at the new hit of the Aegean, where you can visit information, check
centre of the island with its rocky, dry the Folk Art Museum. www.folegandros.gr.
14/GREEK ISLANDS
16/MYKONOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
20/MYKONOS
22/MYKONOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Mykonos
FOR
VISITORS/
two towns (the oth- the northern bus (Tria Pygadia, tiani (Kastro district,
ers are just seaside station, Tel: +30 Mykonos town, Mykonos town), an
resorts); its name- 22890 22325, open Tel: +30 22890 awkwardly shaped
sake and Ano Mera daily 08:30-15:00 22390), an annexe Byzantine church
with the main sights except Mondays) of the Folklrore and the most photo-
scattered around houses items from Museum, presents graphed site on the
Mykonos town. The the prehistoric to the interior decora- island. It is made
labyrinth of alleys the late Hellenistic tion of a typical up of five smaller
and back streets are period, like pottery, 19th century middle churches - four on
confusing at first, vases and stelae dug class house. Next to the ground floor
but once you get out in uninhabited Lenas House is the and one on top. The
the hang of it, you Rinia island. The Maritime Museum construction of the
will be able to stroll Folklore Museum (Tel: +30 22890 first church started
down the street with (close to Church of 22700, open daily in 1425 and the
the confidence of a Paraportiani, Tel: 10:30-13:00 and whole building was
local. Back-to-back +30 22890 22591, 18:30-21:00) which completed in the
boutiques line the open daily from houses nautical 17th century.
main thoroughfares 16:30-20:30 except instruments, vessels, When it comes to
and are open all day Sundays) has a maps and coins beaches, you will be
for business. Four beautiful collection from antiquity until spoilt for choice. If
small museums are of embroidery, old recent times. you crave attention
worth your visit: wooden furniture, At the western edge and want to flirt,
The Archaeologi- maps, pictures and of the town stands head to beaches like
cal Museum (near more. Lenas House Panagia Parapor- Paradise (real name
24/MYKONOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Mykonos
FOR
VISITORS/
Kalamopodi), Super If dance music is for Greek celebri- the north which
Paradise (real name your thing, dont ties and people who have been spared
Blidri) and Paraga, leave Paradise beach are there mainly to the onslaught of
all of which are without joining show off their tan lined umbrellas and
packed with half revellers at Cavo rather than swim. blasting electronica
naked people, sun Pradiso (300 metres Women parade up music.
loungers and um- up the hill, Tel: and down the beach Unspoiled Ftelia
brellas. Parties here +30 22890 27205) wearing little more beach is popular
start as early as 4pm and Paradise Club than lip gloss and with windsurfers as
and alcohol runs Mykonos (also colourful Ray-Bans. its northern expo-
plentiful at the nu- on the hill), two The beachs popu- sure ensures strong
merous beach bars. open-air mega clubs larity is such that, at winds almost all
The idea is to swim, where you can high season, people year round. Every
eat and drink your party until the sun call from Athens to year, the island
cocktail without comes up. Super book sun loungers hosts the Wave
moving more than star DJs like Tiesto, and umbrellas. If the Tour, the interna-
100 metres from David Morales, Paul possibility of argu- tional windsurfing
your lounger. Super Oakenfold, David ing with an over games which attract
Paradise has its own Guetta, Armin Van tanned, half-drunk, all the big names
website for info on Buuren and Bob muscular man over in the sport. The
upcoming events Sinclar often appear a sun lounger is not seclusion you will
and tell-tale pictures on the decks. At the your idea of fun, enjoy here means
(www.superpara- south, Psarou beach head towards the its a good spot to
dise.com.gr). is a meeting point quieter beaches at go skinny dipping
26/MYKONOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Mykonos
FOR
VISITORS/
and bring your dog nis, more famous dry sports - until the towns main
(Greeks are not too as the backdrop for you start sweat- thoroughfare,
keen on seeing dogs the 1980s movie ing there are while middle-aged,
swim next to their Shirley Valentine, several tennis courts well-heeled couples
kids). Agios Sostis is a relatively quiet in Mykonos town stroll around town
is also popular with beach with facilities which can be rented in search of the best
nudists but cannot for snorkelling and for a game, unless upscale restaurant.
be reached by bus, a great tavern on your hotel has a If youre itching to
so its best to rent a site. court. use your credit card,
car or motorcycle. Of course, no beach Mykonos is a sarto- you will have no
For even more pri- is complete without rialist heaven. This trouble doing so in
vacy, head to Fokos some sporting facili- is the only island for one of the big-name
or Kapari (right ties and in Mykonos which women pack luxury brands who
next to Fokos), two you will find plenty high heels. Any new have set up shop
beaches with no on most organised trend set abroad is in town. There are
facilities, which can beaches (Kalafatis, bound to be tried also shops selling
be reached using Elia, Platis Yialos). out here, so all the local delicacies,
your own transport. Theres skiing, crazy shopping you Greek herbs, natural
Kalo Livadi is an windsurfing, kite- did back home will cosmetics, leather
organised beach surfing, jet-skiing, pay off. Hipsters sandals and of
but its quieter than parasailing, scuba and fashionistas course beachwear.
the others and is diving and any other compete for atten- You will be spoilt
thus preferred by water sport you tion at Matoyannia for choice when it
families. Agios Ioan- can imagine. For in the afternoon, comes to food as
28/MYKONOS
/THE down, theres no
GREEK
ISLANDS Mykonos better place to
FOR
VISITORS/ watch the sunset
than Little Venice,
whose scenic houses
and windmills fea-
tured in the movie
Bourne Identity.
All the bars there
are very touristy
and the quality of
service and drinks
will vary, so look at
what is being served
before you sit. Later
on, the fun moves
back to Hora, where
throngs of tanned
revellers show off
their dance skills
in stylish bars and
around the alleys.
Getting
there: There are
many daily ferry and
catamaran services
connecting Piraeus
and Rafina ports
with Mykonos.
Mykonos Airport is
also served by two
Greek carriers
Olympic Air and Ae-
gean Air and many
international airlines
fly directly to the
island. The airport is
this is one of the few may also try Italian, favourites. Most res- situated 4 km from
islands which can Chinese, Japanese taurants are located Mykonos Town and
boast a variety of and even Argentin- in Mykonos town you can reach it by
restaurants with in- ian food while in and the following taxi. Check the Get-
ternational cuisine. town. Many restau- list is only indicative ting to and from the
Apart from the usu- rants offer a fusion of the type of food islands section for
al tavernas serving of Greek cuisine you may find. ferry websites.
traditional fare, you with international When the sun goes
30/MYKONOS
Delos
Your sightseeing coast of Mykonos maritime quarter, trip takes about
wouldnt be com- and is included in the theatre, the 30 minutes. Boats
plete without a day UNESCOs World temples of Apollo, return at 12:15,
trip to Delos, where Heritage list. the lion terrace 13:30 and 3pm.
excavations have According to the and the house of Boat trips to Delos
uncovered the sec- myth, the island is Dionysos. Boats are also organized
ond most important the birthplace of leave daily at 9, from Platys Yalos
ancient sanctuary in Apollo and Arte- 10 and 11am from and Paranga beach
Greece after Delphi, mis, two of God the pier at the west and you can book
dedicated mainly to Zeuss many - ille- side of the harbour, a tour guide on the
God Apollo. The gitimate - children. right behind the lit- spot. The site is
uninhabited island The site has five tle church of Agios closed on Mon-
is 3.5 km off the focal points: the Nikolaos. The boat days.
32/MYKONOS
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Koursaros
34/MYKONOS
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Argo
36/MYKONOS
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Scarpa Bar
38/MYKONOS
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Galleraki is where you will find beach, tel: +30 2289 Caf - restaurant.
10
Cocktail Bar what comes to your 028048
n Plo
scarpa, mykonos, mind when you think Bar - restaurant. 22
gialos, chora
tel: +30 22890 27188, of Greece. Rolled sou- Alemagou mykonos, tel: +30
galleraki.gr vlaki, skewers, classic 16
ftelia beach, 22890 23011
In the heart of Little appetizers, or for tel: +30 22890 71339 Caf - restaurant.
Venice and the Aegean those who are more Bar - restaurant
Sea, stretching in front demanding, grilled Rouvera
23
Agrari Beach gialos, chora
of your eyes, is Gal- kefalograviera cheese, 17
agrari beach, mykonos, tel: +30
leraki Bar, one of the its famous kebab or
tel: +30 22890 71339 22890 28858
oldest on the island. It soutzouki, grilled
Bar - restaurant. Caf - restaurant.
is housed in a classic meat and six versions
Cycladic building and of yiaourtlou kebab. Epistrofi Music
18 24
this is where youll st. stefano's gialos, chora
Kalua
find coffee in the 12 beach, tel: +30 22890 mykonos, tel: +30
paraga beach,
morning and drinks 28628 22890 27625
tel: +30 22890 23397
and cocktails in the Bar - restaurant. Caf - restaurant.
Beach bar - restaurant.
evening. Porto - rnos Yummy
Lounge 19 25
The Classic of 13 ornos beach, laka, chora
11 Paradise
Mykonos tel: +30 22890 25868 mykonos, tel: +30
paradise, tel: +30
evangelistraki, Restaurant. 22890 28823
22890 22852
circular road of Beach bar. Cavo Psarou Caf - snack bar.
mykonos, tel: +30 20
Pili
psarou beach, L'Unico
22890 24500-10 14 26
tel: +30 22890 25822 matogianni
st. John's beach,
From the heart of Caf - restaurant. - st. kyriaki, chora
tel: +30 22890 26660
Athens to the heart of mykonos, tel: +30
Bar - restaurant. 1975
Mykonos, this tradi- 21 22890 24190
airport, tel: +30
tional souvlaki grill Bonatsa Caf - snack bar.
15
platis gialos
22890 78888
40/MYKONOS
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Rien Melivia
42/MYKONOS
LiFOce facebook.com/ collection of luxuri-
i
cho melivia.boutique, ous beachwear like
mykonos melivia.boutique@ MARISA PADOVAN
gmail.com Haute Couture, the
Located in an old well-known French
mansion in one of brandERES, CHLOE
the busiest alleys of MARE, FLAVIA
Mykonos, MELIVIA PADOVAN and
boutique remains a KRISTINA-TI.
destination for those Ekaterini
wanting a selected mix 04
Jewellery
of clothes and accesso- Design
ries. MELIVIA offers a matoyianni, mykonos
wide range ofinterna- town, tel: +30 22890
tional labels. The place 78876, facebook:
to find ERMANNO ekaterini jewellery
SCERVINOamaz- design
ing laces,FABIANA The shop sells clothes
FILIPPISsimple lines, from designer Ekat-
STEFANO MOR- erini which are pro-
TARIand many more duced in Greece, but
sandals decorated also has a wide range
with semi-precious of foreign brands. The
stones by CARUSO, youthful design and
EUGENIA KIMde- great value for money
signer hats, SPAZIO are present in the
MANASSEI GIOIELLI hottest trends in ac-
Ekaterini Jewellery Design jewels and a superb cessories like earrings,
LiFOce
i
cho
mykonos
Optique Boutique
Andronikos hotel
48/MYKONOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
50/SANTORINI
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/
In 1956, when worthless. A lot has from past erup- jewellery stores,
Greece was still changed since then. tions. Dont worry signs pop up arro-
struggling to recover Santorini emerged though; chances of gantly like mush-
from the devastation from oblivion in the it erupting while rooms in every street
of the Second World 1970s with the ad- youre spending the corner and a couple
War, a big earth- vent of tourism and summer there are of unsightly build-
quake hit the island. the development of extremely thin. The ings mess up the
Fifty - six people modern transporta- name Santorini was picture-perfect town.
were killed and hun- tion, to become one given to the island There are some
dreds were injured of the hottest travel by the Franks who bright spots though.
in what was the destinations in the run the island in the Take a seat at one
largest earthquake world. 13th century in hon- of the cliff-hanging
to hit Europe in the Athinios, the busy our of Saint Irene cafs where you
20th century. With port of Santorini, is and it has stuck have your first pano-
their houses and not much to look until today, though ramic view of the
livelihoods reduced at, but as soon as the official name is 18 km long caldera,
to rubble, locals you start ascending Thira. stretching like a
started abandoning the narrow winding Fira, the main town, crescent moon from
the island in waves road that leads to is picturesque, but Akrotiri to Cape
and travelling to Fira, you are made has not escaped the Agios Nikolaos,
Athens or abroad to aware of the raw side effects of mass at the north. Right
start anew. At that beauty of the island tourism. Throngs of and left Fira town
time, anyone with that has mesmerised tourists, right off the is spread out with
moderate savings visitors for decades. cruise ships, fill up whitewashed houses
could have bought Santorini is an ac- the narrow paths, and churches with
half the island as tive volcano. It last cars are parked brilliant blue cupo-
people were eager to erupted in 1950 on everywhere, tacky las. At the centre of
be rid of any prop- Nea Kameni, the souvenir shops inter- the lagoon is Nea
erty, viewed then as small island formed change with dated Kameni and further
52/SANTORINI
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/
out the inhabited walls have been Naos Episkopis volcanic islands in
island of Thirasia. well preserved as Thiras (south of the middle of the
The caldera cafs are they were buried village Mesa Gonia) caldera, and bigger
the perfect places to under the ashes of is an important Thirasia. Boats
sip the first aperitif the huge eruption Byzantine church leave from Yalos
of the evening and which destroyed the built in the 11th Santorinis old port
contemplate on the island in the 17th century by emperor - Athinios the new
age-old popular century BC. The Alexios Komninos. port and Am-
legend on whether impressive frescoes The small Folklore moudi.
Santorini is indeed from Akrotiri can Museum of Manolis Santorini also has
the lost Atlantis. be found at the Mu- Lignos (Kontohori, a thriving art scene
Sightseeing should seum of Prehistoric Fira, Tel: 22860 with Greek and
begin at Akrotiri Thira at Fira (Tel: 22792) houses an foreign artists ex-
(Tel: +30 22860 +30 22860 22217, old canava (wine hibiting their work
81366, open open Tue-Sun). The cellar) and tools of in various venues
Tue-Sun) where Archaeological Mu- the wine business. around the island.
excavations in 1967 seum (Fira, Tel:+30 Do not miss the Art Space in Exo
brought to light the 22860 22217, open chance to walk on Gonia (open daily
best known Minoan Tue-Sun) exhibits dark solid lava and from 11am to sun-
site outside of Crete. sculptures and swimming in hot set, Tel: +30 22860
The elaborate inscriptions from springs by joining 32774) exhibits in
complexes of multi- the Roman times, as one of the daily boat its carved chambers
level buildings, the well as some objects trips to Palia and contemporary art
streets, objects and from Akrotiri. Nea Kameni, the from new and estab-
54/SANTORINI
/THE lished artists. Mati
GREEK
ISLANDS SANTORINI art gallery (Fira,
FOR
VISITORS/ Orthodox Cathedral
plateau, Tel:+30
22860 23814) show-
cases the work of
visual artist Yorgos
Kypris.
Many people argue
Santorini doesnt
have any decent
beaches. Thats not
true. Because of its
unique geology, San-
torini has unusual
beaches which are
completely different
from each other.
Most of them are
quite busy and the
best time to enjoy
them is to get there
before noon. Perissa
is a popular long
beach with fine,
black, volcanic sand
and lounge chairs
for everyone. There
are many water
sports on offer and
the village has plenty
of tavernas for an
afternoon snack.
Perivolos is the natu-
ral continuation of
Perissa and is simi-
larly organised with
umbrellas, beach
bars and lots of ce-
lebrity viewings. The
beautiful limestone
formations found in
Vlihada beach create
a lunar landscape
where you are able
to escape the sun
loungers by simply
walking past them.
Kamari beach is
probably the most
famous beach and is
similarly geared to-
wards pleasing tour-
56/SANTORINI
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ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/
ists with beach bars of steep brick red the beach which is will not disappoint
and water sports. rocks. It is reachable an ideal location to you. The island has
Lying on your sun by boat from Ak- enjoy that famous a long tradition
lounger, you will rotiri. Aspri paralia sunset without the of cultivating and
probably see many (white beach) has, crowds of Oia and consuming high
small airplanes fly- as you may guess, Fira. Baxedes beach quality local pro-
ing really low over white sand made of at the northeast duce. The volcanic
the water; thats pulverized limestone is recommended earth has helped
because the airport and to get there for families as the Santorini develop
runway starts right you must hop on a waters are shallow unique agricultural
after the village. boat. At the north, an exception in products which have
Two more beaches Katharos beach Santorini. Driving dominated the ec-
on the southwest- is blissfully quiet, towards the east you lectic culinary scene
ern coast are really though this is slowly will find Monolithos for many years.
worth a mention: changing. To get and Karterados, The local waterless
Kokkini paralia (red there, drive towards both with black peb- small tomatoes (like
beach), right next Ammoudi port and bles and sand, with cherry tomatoes)
to the archaeologi- follow the signs. Monolithos being have an amazing full
cal site of Akrotiri, Theres an amazing more popular. flavour and colour
is a narrow beach bar squeezed in the If you like gourmet and the same goes
spread at the base rocks overlooking food, Santorini for the local white
58/SANTORINI
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ISLANDS SANTORINI
FOR
VISITORS/
aubergine. Fava producers, Antoniou where will they get a drink. Firas
beans from Santorini Winery (Megalo- watch the sunset nightlife is livelier,
are so good they hori, Tel: +30 22860 from? On this while Oia is best for
were assigned the 23557) and Canava contest, Fira, Oia, a quiet night out.
PDO tag (Protected Roussos (Mesa Go- Imerovigli and Firo-
Designation of nia, Episkopi, Tel: stefani win over the
Origin). The island +30 22860 31349). other villages hands
also has a sophisti- Eating in Santorini down. If you want
Getting
cated wine industry can really be hit or to find a seat in one
there: All major
which produces miss. Many tavernas of the restaurants ferry companies
local varieties like on the caldera have or bars lining the offer several daily
Asyrtiko and the very poor quality of cliff, you have to be routes to Santorini.
sweet Vinsanto. The food because they there at least two Santorini Airport
strong winds have rely on their location hours before the sun is also served by
forced producers to attract visitors sets, as privileged two Greek carri-
to cultivate vines instead of working seats - inside and ers Olympic Air
by coiling them up, on a decent menu. outside the bars - fill and Aegean Air and
while the volcanic Beware of venues up early. Otherwise, many international
soil gives the grapes with too many signs you can join the airlines fly directly
a unique flavour. and waiters prod- dozens of people to the island. Having
Wine tasting tours ding you to go in. who crouch on said this, we believe
Santorini should be
are organised by Good restaurants do white roofs, empty
approached by boat.
local wineries. Some not need that kind yards and other
The experience of
of them are Sigalas of advertising. available surfaces cruising between the
(between Oia and Life on the volcano to watch the sun volcanic islets as you
Vourvoulos, Tel: passes in style and disappear behind approach Santorini
+30 2286071644), expectation. After the horizon. When and the impact of
Santo Wines spending a day at the sun goes down that first view of the
(Pyrgos, Tel: +30 the beach, the same and the oppressive caldera from below
22860 22596), a question is raised heat recedes, it is is a must.
cooperative of wine in peoples minds: the perfect time to
60/SANTORINI
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santorini
Mattonella Marmita
FOOD&DRINK flavours for every mo- like octopus in fava oven with fresh toma-
ment of the day. beans, Marmita salad, to and oregano, fresh
Mattonella Marmita veal with prunes and cod in the oven with
01 02 pasta and shrimps in olive oil, tomato and
fira, santorini, megalohoriou
tel: +30 6944959341 square, santorini, melted cheese prove vegetables, spicy meat-
Ingredients and tel: +30 22860 81603, how well the flavours balls with sauce and a
quality are the most 6933146501 combine. traditional baklava for
important elements It is located in a Skala dessert. Combine the
03 food with wine from
for this ice cream traditional village Restaurant
store. Fresh fruits that offers a different oia, santorini, tel: traditional local wine
are used in sorbets; perspective on the is- +30 22860 71362 varieties, asyrtiko
fresh milk and cream land, warmer and less Located in one of from the ancient grape
from Koukakis Farm cosmopolitan. Sitting Santorinis most pic- variety found on the
are used to make ice at the top of a hill, turesque villages, on island and mavrotra-
cream, real cocoa and the restaurant enjoys the main cobblestone gano, the indigenous
chocolate from Barry a view to the east pedestrian walkway red variety with the
Callebaut. Matonella and is surrounded by of Oia, the restaurant rich aroma.
is passionate about vineyards. The cuisine has a yard full of Ferentini
04
quality and first class is inspired by Greek flowers and scents to Restaurant
ingredients. Theres and Mediterranean welcome you. Enjoy oia, santorini, tel:
a wide variety of ice specialties, uniting Greek classics made +30 22860 71825
cream flavours, frozen local products of San- with local produce A sister restaurant to
yogurt with a topping torini with gourmet like oven sfougato Skala, also in Oia,
of your choice, choco- flavours and a menu with zucchini and dill, it expands on two
late ice cream, fior di
latte and other fruity
based both on meat
and fresh fish. Dishes
traditional aubergine
salad, sardines in the
open-air levels and
offers Mediterranean
62/SANTORINI
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santorini
to another era. If you the island, located Greek recipes. In the Modern Greek cuisine
just want to relax and in Kamari, near the evening, it becomes either at the restaurant
enjoy your drinks beach. Lying at the the absolute beach or on the beach, at
or cocktails, there is specially made lounge bar. Sun loungers on a place which will
anoutside area, sepa- chairs, you will enjoy the beach, tropical be set up by Anemos
rated from the interior your swim drinking cocktails and music staff for you and your
bar by a passage, ideal coffee, juices and fresh nights with live bands company.
forchillingout amid cocktails and after you or DJs complete the Sea Side
the magnificent views. finish, you will dine in ideal scenery. 12
Notos
One of the strengths an ideal environment. Anemos Restaurant
of Blue Monday You will try Italian 11
Beach Bar agios georgios beach,
Rockabilly Bar is the flavours with a focus Restaurant perivolos,
extensive and detailed on pasta and seafood, perivolos, santorini, tel: +30 22860 82801
cocktail list, which made from experi- tel: +30 22860 82220 If youre looking for
covers all tastes. For enced chefs and have a & 82540 a restaurant on the
the more hardcore, glass of wine. We will bring you beach with gourmet
we highly recommend Yazz your cocktail, cuisine and a lounge
theshooters(any 10
perissa beach, champagne or wine bar, you will find it at
drink or cocktail you santorini, tel: +30 while youre lying Perivolos in Santorini.
like served as a shot!) 6940 570457 on a lounge chair on The chef has created
Sabbia Nera A beach bar-restau- the beach of Agios a menu based on the
09
kamari beach, rant you can choose Georgios or Perivolos, Mediterranean cuisine
santorini, tel: +30 for breakfast; you with the black sand with a few tropical
22860 33007 may try the fresh fruit or you may go to the elements. After your
The name means juices and smoothies bar and watch it being dinner, visit the bar to
Black Sand and is made of tropical fruits made. If you want to try the original cock-
the new trattoria on or some traditional eat, you will enjoy tails and enjoy ethnic
66/SANTORINI
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santorini
Smag Gallerie
Feggera Ammos
and lounge music. enjoy them with a tures and old furniture accessories and shoes.
Feggera bottle of wine from stand side by side. The Well-known and less
13 Santorini. space is called Spira known brands like
megalohori,
santorini, tel: +30 Marble Art Gallery Wild Fox, Moncler,
22860 82930 SHOPPING (SMAG) and visitors Missoni, Dsquared,
On the terrace of a can be toured and Diane von Fursten-
town house in the Smag Gallerie presented to the works berg, Hale Bob,
01 exhibited. Occasion- Mes Demoiselles,
beautiful village of messaria, thira
Magalohori, the (atelier), tel: +30 ally, Kouskouris offers Rivieras, Vilbrequin,
restaurant waits for 22860 33269 /pyrgos, classes in marble Sundek, Pantone,
you to enjoy Aegean thira (gallery), tel: sculpture. Pedro Garcia, Ash,
flavours and watch +30 22860 27134 Ammos One Tea Spoon, Fine
A new arrival on the 02 Collection, American
the moon rise slowly. fira, tel: +30
The people of Feggera island, as its been 22860 28744, kamari, Vintage, but also
have combined the only a year since the tel: +30 22860 32801, creations by Greek
pure flavours of or- artist and sculptor oia, tel: +30 22860 designers await you to
ganic Cretan products of marble Grigoris 72272 make them an integral
with the traditional Kouskouris opened The absolute fashion part of your style.
recipes of Santorini his first personal space point on Santorini that Asimis
where he presents his 03
and the products of keeps expanding every Kolaitou Art
its arid land. It also work. Kouskouris has year. The two stores Foundation
offers cooking lessons been working with in Fira and Kamari are fira, santorini, tel:
where you learn all its marble for about 20 now joined by another +30 22860 23041
culinary secrets so that years. This year he one in Oia. Ammos Two painters and
you will be able to returns with a second is the right choice brothers, Christoforos
make the same recipes space, in an area for stylish mens and and Katonas Asimis,
for your friends and where marble sculp- womens clothing, along with the jewel-
68/SANTORINI
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santorini
lery and sculptor artist Santorini, photo- Magia Art decided to transfer
05
Eleni Kolaitou, united graphic sculptures, Gallery this experience on the
their artistry and bronze sculptures, megalohori, island of Santorini,
experience to create ceramics and jewellery santorini, tel: +30 at the traditional
three venues for art will stimulate your 6970458284 village of Megalohori,
and creation. One vision and excite your Maria Christina where she exhibits
of them is found on imagination. Fungini is an art ex- in one space works
the island and houses Art Shop pert with 30 years by local and foreign
the creations of all 04 of experience in artists, who are active
megalochori,
three artists. Paint- santorini, tel: +30 Rome and London in various fields like
ings portraying the 22860 85348 through her art gal- painting, sculpture
light and scenery of lery, MAGIA. Maria and jewellery making.
LiFOce
i
cho
santorini
Navys Waterworld
76/SANTORINI
/THE
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ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
78/PAROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS paros
FOR
VISITORS/
80/PAROS
/THE Lefkes, right in the
GREEK
ISLANDS paros middle of Paros.
FOR
VISITORS/ Picturesque Lefkes,
with its cubed
whitewashed houses
which resemble sug-
ar lumps, have re-
sisted the pressures
of package tourism,
maintaining its
slow paced life and
unspoilt architec-
ture. The Church of
Agia Triada, made
entirely of Parian
white marble, is
visible from every
embark on their the old town lies lively town with its part of the village.
nightly escapades. It the Venetian castle own gastronomic If youre in Paros at
is the liveliest part built by Marco world and nightlife the end of August,
of the island, with Sanudo, Venetian which somehow do not miss the local
hotels, cafs, shops Duke of Naxos, seems to attract panigiri on the 29th
and bars lining the in 1260 AD using a more eclectic dedicated to Agios
seafront and many pieces of ancient (and older) crowd. Yannis Kaparos.
The celebrations
more scattered temples and other Close to Naoussa is
spill out in the vine-
around the back buildings. Walking Kolimbithres, one of
yards and orchards
streets. The islands around Parikia will the most impressive
at the gardens of
long history is ex- inevitably bring you beaches with light
the local monastery.
hibited in the small outside Panagia blue waters and
When you get hun-
Archaeological Ekatontapiliani (Tel: smooth grey rocks.
gry, find To Thasos
Museum in Parikia +30 22840 21243, On the east coast
for a home-cooked
(Tel: +30 22840 church open 07:30- are the tranquil vil-
meal and a majestic
21231, open Tue- 21:30, museum lages of Piso Livadi view.
Sun 08:30-15:00). open 09:30-14:00 and Logaras. Both Paros is home to
The most important & 18:00-21:00) the villages have sandy many sports, includ-
find is a fragment of 4th century com- beaches, taver- ing water skiing,
the Parian Chroni- pound comprised nas and cafs and diving, horse-back
cle, a chronology of of three churches are popular with riding, mountain-
key events in Greece Agios Nikolaos, the families and those biking, Go-Karting,
from 1,500 BC to Church of Our Lady who want to avoid bungee jumping,
264 BC but you will and the Baptistry the crowded beaches beach volleyball and
also see the torso of - and a Byzantine further south. Piso hiking. However,
Artemis in motion, museum. Livadi has plenty of the most popular
from the 4th century Naoussa, on the small bars to enjoy sports on the island
BC. Just behind the north coast, stands a cold beer in the are windsurfing
museum are the out with its scenic evening and watch and kitesurfing. In
remains of three harbour and the the sunset. fact, the kite surfing
Hellenistic houses, whitewashed houses Taking the road world cup is held
as well as beauti- and shops. What back to Parikia here regularly and
ful mosaics from started as a small from Piso Livadi, there are some top
the 3rd century fishing village has you arrive at the notch kitesurfing
BC. At the heart of transformed into a mountain village of schools at Pounda
82/PAROS
/THE think highly of the
GREEK
ISLANDS paros local caper added
FOR
VISITORS/ in Greek salads
and the alcoholic
drink souma, which
resembles raki. The
vineyards produce
two local varieties of
grapes, manthilaria
(red) and monem-
vasia (white), which
have been assigned
the PDO tag (Pro-
tected Designation
of Origin).
Eating is a feast
in Paros, which,
like Mykonos and
Naxos, offers a wide
beach for all aspir- rock formations and 22840 22931, range of eateries and
ing athletes. Most caves and ADC or- email: alkion- cuisines.
sports facilities ganises trips to all of iparos@yahoo.gr) The bar crawls
can be found at them, depending on opened its doors to in Paros start at
Santa Maria, Kolim- your diving skills. treat wildlife from the waterfront of
bithres, Farangas A popular day trip all over Greece. Parikia and contin-
and Monastiri. If is crossing to An- Since its opening ues where the music
youre interested tiparos Island (1km it has expanded is louder. There
in discovering the southwest of Paros its facilities to deal are countless bars
underwater world and the next island with the increasing and clubs to choose
of Paros look no in the guide), the number of injured from and sometimes
further than the Ae- somewhat quieter birds, while at the the insane number
gean Diving College sibling of Paros. The same time trying to of people gathering
(ADC) (Hrisi Akti, boats leave daily educate the public outside their doors
Tel: +30 22840 from the ferry quay on environmental means that the one
43347, +30 6932 of Pounta beach. issues. You can or- you choose may just
289649, www. The hinterland has ganise a visit to the be the one which
aegeandiving.gr) several wetlands like hospital by calling you can actually
which offers courses Santa Maria, Molos, ahead or email. The get in.
and organises diving Hrisi Akti, Aliki hospital is always in
trips. ADC is run and Kambos which need of volunteers
by Peter Nicolaides, serve as havens for and donations, so Getting
an experienced migrating birds like feel free to help any there: There are
diver, oceanogra- cormorants and way you can. many daily ferry and
catamaran services
pher, biologist and eagles. Unfortu- Just like Naxos, Pa-
connecting Piraeus
offshore engineer nately, many birds ros has a significant
and Rafina ports with
who has worked and other types of agricultural produc- Paros and Olympic
on expeditions wildlife fall prey tion, starting from Air flies daily to the
with the National to hunters or are top quality olive oil, island. For ferry
Geographic Founda- otherwise injured. vegetables, fruits, and airline websites
tion and Jacques In 1995, the Aegean gourmet cheeses like check the Getting to
Yves Cousteau. The Wildlife Hospital graviera, touloumi- and from the islands
coastal area is full of Alkioni (area of sio and ladotiri and section.
wrecks, interesting Kamares, Tel: +30 wine. Locals also
84/PAROS
LiFOce
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paros
Yria hotel to relax reading. It is also foreign brands use fruit and vegetables
01
resort also very close to many like Tenki London, grown on our farm
yria hotel resort - of Paros sites. Numph, Empathie and or purchased from
paros - tel. +30 22840 Minas Closet Beck Sonder Gaard local farmers. All the
24154 02 bags. ingredients used in
palia agora,
email - info@yriaho- our restaurant are free
parikia, paros, tel: +30 Yemeni Win
tel.gr - web site www. 03 from chemicals and
22840 25057 Restaurant
yriahotel.gr pesticides. As our ingre-
In spring 2010, Mina naousa, paros, tel:
At the west of Paros, dients are not frozen,
Katratzaki decided +30 22840-51445
at the Parasporos
to open her own Yemeni first opened some of our dishes are
cove, in a valley full
girly shop, after its doors to customers seasonal and may not
of vineyards, olive
years of working in in 2007 in Naoussa be available. The bread
trees, orchards and
fashion magazines, of Paros, willing to served in our restaurant
more than 200 kinds
participating in many change the way we had is made at home in a
of trees and birds,
art exhibitions and all got used to looking traditional wood oven
Yria Hotel Resort
promises quietness and charity benefits for at modern restaurants and our family also
rest, but also plenty of handmade jewellery today. In contrast to produces the olive oil.
activities to do. The and accessories. Mina the life of new where Naoussa Paros
Cycladic architecture Katratzaki gives advice everything speeds up Tel:22840-51445.
and the colours of the on fashion trends and and gets modernized,
helps create a style. Her we created a place to
Bit of Salt
Aegean are all around 04
naoussa,
the 22,000-sq-meter creations have been dine using ingredients
tel: +30 22840 28625,
area. There is a wide worn by many Greek that respect the islands
asteras,tel: +30 22840
variety of accommoda- actresses on stage. produce and traditions.
Apart from her own Yemeni means see 42757, www.bitofsalt.
tion on offer: simple
handmade jewellery through scarf which gr
rooms for two, slightly
and accessories. In her local women used to Fashion & Water-
larger rooms, small
boutique she also has wear on their heads. sports. 2 shops on the
suites, condos, large
suites and houses, each vintage collections, The word actually has island. Here you will
with its own ameni- bohemian, casual, girly Turkish roots but has find equipment for
ties. The resort has and styles from been used for ages by windsurf, kitesurf and
a gym, a spa, a pool, Greek designers like villagers and a word other water sports, but
tennis court, Nefeli Philosophy, Belleville we often hear in many also a wide variety of
restaurant, Nefeli bar, Clothing, Christina traditional Greek songs beachwear, fashion-
a gallery where you can Beautiful Life, Valia and tales. wear & accessories for
buy souvenirs, a library Gabriel sandals, but In our restaurant we adults and kids.
86/PAROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS antiparos
FOR
VISITORS/
Antiparos
Antiparos is a the other lead- cobbled streets, racy which has
small island off ing to Sifneiko, a looking for a place survived on a wall
the south-western beach to the north. to eat. Thankfully, over the balcony
coast of Paros. The Life on the island cars are not allowed of a house right
island is one of the concentrates on the in the village. behind the Church
first alongside main village, also Walking past the of Christ.
Mykonos which called Antiparos, Church of Agios Atop the hill of
allowed nud- which is basi- Nikolaos at the Agios Yannis at the
ism in the 1970s. cally an extension central square, you south-eastern part
What started as of the port. The will see the Kastro of the island is the
an off-the-beaten- village has many (castle), the old Cave of Antiparos,
track destination cafs, small grocery fortified settle- where the stalactite
for rockers and stores, bars and ment, built in the and stalagmite for-
camping lovers tavernas scattered 13th century by mations make for
has in the last few around. During the usual suspect, an extraordinary
years turned into the day, you could Marco Sanudo, sight. The staircase
a cosmopolitan, be excused for the Venetian Duke will lead you down
mainstream land of thinking Antiparos of Naxos. The the well-lit cave
expensive property village is deserted, flat roofed houses where you will see
and loud nightlife. as theres hardly inside the Kastro a flat formation
The whole island anyone walking have been well named altar after
has two main around. The village preserved and they a Christmas mass
streets, one leading comes to life in are typically built in that took place here
to Agios Yorgis, the the evening, when a square. Watch for in 1673 by French
only other village sunburned tourists the emblem of the Ambassador Mar-
on the island, and amble along the Venetian Democ- quis de Nouantel.
88/ANTIPAROS
To get there, take French pirates killed divided in two very it ideal for snorkel-
the bus or a boat all the inhabitants. small bays; the one ling.
from Antiparos There are daily boat in the north is rocky Surfers will love
village. trips from Antiparos and the other one is Sifneiko, but regular
History buffs will village. Back to An- sandy. Close to the swimmers usually
love Despotiko tiparos town, visit main village, Agios avoid it because of
Island, found off the the small Folklore Spyridonas has shal- the layer of sea-
southwestern tip of Museum (inside low waters making weeds washed out
Antiparos, where an Kastro, Tel: +30 it ideal for families on the beach and
ancient sanctuary 22840 61005, open with kids. The the constant winds.
of Apollo was dis- daily 08:00-14:00, same applies for 1st For those who pre-
covered unharmed except Sat, Sun) for Psaraliki, which has fer nudism, head to
in the 19th century. a look at traditional sun loungers and the east of the island
The sanctuary was everyday objects umbrellas. For those or the beach next to
used from the 7th and costumes, as who like crowded the camping site at
century until Ro- well as Cycladic beaches, head to Theologos (Camp-
man times and its figurines. 2nd Psaraliki, where ing Antiparos, Tel:
most significant find The island may be you can play vol- +30 22840 61221),
is a large female small, but there leyball or do some where it is officially
figurine, probably a is no shortage of people - watching allowed. The calm
goddess, as well as beaches to swim. under the tamarisks. waters of the camp-
a building complex Agios Sostis and Livadi beach has ing are filled with
of five rooms. The Faneromeni are sand but no shade, nudists from all
island was inhab- the prettiest, with while Apantima is walks of life from
ited until the 17th turquoise waters. small with a rocky old tanned hippies
century, when Faneromeni is sea bottom, making to young couples
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS antiparos
FOR
VISITORS/
Anargyros
Anargyros nean cuisine, cooked Let your senses travel the collections of Kare
01
antiparos, tel: with ingredients mostly you in a world of ap- design and Nordal
+30 22840 61204 produced by its own- peal and luxury! and create a special
The oldest restaurant ers. Anargyros is situ- Enjoy the summer with environment in your
and hotel establishment ated close to the beach products from Molton favourite space with
in Antiparos (operating and other hot spots of Brown, Crabtree and the scents Dr. Vranjes
since 1925) continues the island. Evelyn, Agema, Ahava Firenze and candles
to offer excellent hospi- Antiparos and the amazing min- Yankee candle and Du-
tality to its customers. 02
Senses eral make up of Jane rance. We wait for you
Your taste buds will be Concept Store Iridale. with many more ideas
fully satisfied with the antiparos 84 007, tel: Discover unique pieces for gifts you and your
exquisite Mediterra- +30 22840 28845 for your home from loved ones will enjoy.
92/ANTIPAROS
LiFOce
i
cho
antiparos
95/ANTIPAROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
Naxos
So many choices for every-
one on this island. Not just
swimming and night life,
but also amazing places
to see, super food and
of course sighseeing.
96/NAXOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/
Naxos Island is the name to the islands historic centre armour to appear
biggest in the Cy- tallest mountain, reveals a beautiful, from a corner.
clades and you will Zeus (also known medieval town. The Inside the Kastro,
definitely need a car as Zas). town, also known the Archaeological
to get around. The Even from the boat, as Kastro (castle), Museum (Tel: +30
island thrived dur- visitors to Naxos was built by the 22850 22725, open
ing the Byzantine can see the 6-metre- Venetian Duke Tue-Sun 08:00-
era and the numer- high Portara (gate) of Naxos, Marco 15:00) housed in a
ous pretty churches sticking out from Sanudo (who also listed building that
spread across the dry land to the built the kastro of used to be Sanudos
the inland are a left of the port. Antiparos), in the palace, has artefacts
testament to this It is part of the 13th century. Wan- dating from the
heritage. Myth has unfinished temple dering around the Late Neolithic
it that this is where ofApollo, whose old town with its period to the Early
Zeus, the king of construction began very well preserved Christian times.
ancient Greek gods, in the middle of Venetian buildings The highlights
was raised and the 6th century flanking the narrow are the amazing
where he launched BC but was never alleys, you feel like mosaic represent-
his efforts to take completed. Just like youve stumbled ing the abduction
over the throne in in other islands, the upon a film set, of Europe from
Mt. Olympus. Lo- capital and port is half-expecting a Zeus and the large
cals have given his called Hora, whose knight in shining collection of marble
98/NAXOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/
figurines (Cycladic furniture and the open your map and ley at the centre of
among them), ves- porcelains and take notes. Apiran- Naxos, dotted with
sels and amphorae. silverware found thosis Naxo's most half a dozen sleepy
The palace itself was in the mansion are beautifully pre- villages. The quaint
built from 1600 to displayed beauti- served village. This village of Filoti, the
1800 and is in itself fully for the visitors. small village has set largest of the group,
a highlight. The Della Rocca-Barozzi up three museums: is built amphitheat-
islands Historical Venetian Muse- the Archaeological rically over the fer-
Archives are now um(Tel: +30 22850 Museum (open Tue- tile valley cultivated
housed in what 22386, open daily Sun, 08:30-15:00) with olive trees and
used to be a French 10:00-23:00) inside with interesting orchards. Further
school, where writer the castle showcases rock paintings and down towards
Nikos Kazantzakis, medieval everyday other artefacts, the Hora, you encounter
Greeces greatest objects and, during Museum of Natural Halki village, which
modern writer, at- the summer, hosts History (Tue-Sun, has more Venetian
tended briefly. cultural activities, 08:30-15:00) ex- tower houses, the
Antico Veneziano such as concerts hibiting rocks and most famous of
(Tel: +30 22850 of classical music dolphin skeletons which is Gratsia
22702) is a stun- and art exhibitions. and the Geology Pyrgos. In the same
ning 800-year-old Your medieval tour Museum (open Tue- village, the family
mansion which is completed with Sun, 08:30-15:00) Vallindras (Tel: +30
has been restored the Capuchins mon- housing lots of rock 22850 31220) has
to its former glory astery and the 13th formations from the been making Kitron,
by the Dellaroka century Catholic island and abroad. an alcoholic bever-
family and operates Cathedral. Your tour around age made of citrus,
as an antique store. There is plenty of the island will inevi- in the same distillery
The old ornately walking and explor- tably bring you to since 1896. The
carved wooden ing to do inland, so Tragaea, a large val- visitor is invited to
100/NAXOS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS Naxos
FOR
VISITORS/
observe the process ant Kouros lies in an lot of coves to like Mikri Vigla are
and try Kitron and ancient quarry close choose from. Agios dotted with colour-
other products. Ko- to Apollonas village, Prokopios andAgia ful sails swooshing
ronos is a mountain- at the northern tip Annaoffer the up and down the
ous village whose of the island. There usual triptych of sun waves. Mikri Am-
inhabitants used to are more antiqui- loungers, umbrellas mos to the west is
work in the nearby ties to see towards and water sports a beautiful sandy
emery mines. Today Sangri, at the area (diving included). At beach but its a long
locals are involved Gyroulas; the Doric the area of Ma- way out.
in farming and Temple of Demeter, rangas, below Agia Unlike the rest of
agriculture. Your built between 530- Anna, are a series of the Cyclades, Naxos
next stop should be 520 BC which is small beaches which has a fertile land
Melanes, built on made entirely out of you can explore and agriculture is
the side of a gorge. white marble. one by one. On the widely developed.
The highlight is a Another majes- west coast, the sand The Naxiot potatoes
tall Kouros statue tic tower is the dunes which form are considered the
(male statue) situ- Hellenistic Pirgos Plaka beach attract best and are shipped
ated in the country- Himarrou (a tower) nudists. Agiasos is a to the supermarkets
side close the village, situated in an area quiet beach overrun of mainland Greece.
dating to the 6th beyond the moun- by families, while As you travel
century BC. Close tain of Zeus (Zas). Apollonas at the inland, you will dis-
to the village, in Apart from sightsee- north is protected cover the orchards
the area of Kalam- ing, Naxos is all from the winds. and vineyards which
itsa, is the old Jesuit about swimming. Naxos, like Paros, produce wine, figs,
Palace, built in the The coast north of attracts windsurf- olive oil and citrus.
17th century, which Hora is rocky and ers thanks to the Another source of
served as the resi- is usually avoided, summer meltemia income comes from
dence of the Jesuit but if you go south, winds that sweep farming and island-
monks. Another gi- you will have a the island. Beaches ers are proud to
102/NAXOS
LiFOce
i
cho
naxos
104/NAXOS
LiFOce
i
cho
naxos
Ippokampos Porto Naxos or the pool bar for a the visitor has the
01 02
Hotel & agios georgios drink. In the hotel spa opportunity to watch
Restaurant beach, naxos, tel: +30 you will achieve ab- from its beginning,
agios georgios beach, 22850 23970-71-72 solute relaxation. Ask from the distilling
naxos, tel: +30 22850 Hospitality, comfort the staff to transport phase, which happens
24648 and tranquillity. These you to and from the in the same distiller
In an authentic Cy- three words summa- hotel, give you bikes used since 1896, until
cladic building where rise the philosophy of to ride, inform you the tasting of citron
everything is painted the people who cre- about sights around Vallindra right at the
white, you will find a ated this hotel and its the island and sign source, the House of
guests. Porto Naxos you up for group Citron. It is definitely
beautiful place to stay
has a traditional tours or sports. a unique experience,
or/and eat. The rooms
Cycladic architecture but if you dont have
are equipped with TV, Citron
and decoration and 03
air con, safe, beach halki, naxos, time, you may visit the
an impressive garden
towels and of course tel: +30 22850 31220 store in Hora, where
which will satisfy your
breakfast is served. In With an ancient tradi- you will find all its
needs. The rooms
the all-day lounge res- tion, the Vallindra products and will be
include air condition,
taurant you will taste family has been distill- able to taste and buy
cable TV, mini bar,
food inspired from the ing the leaves of citron them.
wireless internet, a
Mediterranean, look- safe and other com- for 115 years, in its Stis Irinis
04
ing at the view over mon features. You neoclassical building, hora of naxos,
Agios Georgios beach may enjoy your meals to make the unique tel: +30 22850 26780
and listening to the at the hotel restaurant Vallindra Citron of The authentic island
sound of the waves. and later go to the bar Naxos. It is a process and Greek traditional
106/NAXOS
Mojo Bar Ocean Dance Club
cuisine has turned it the absolute summer bartenders along with be seen. Easy to find.
into one of the most mood. The immortal world known DJs, Just ask anybody on
famous places on the Aegean sunset, the famous events, parties the island.
island and the Cyclad- elaborated Cycladic and acts complete Girasole
es. The menu includes architecture and our the absolute nightlife 07
portara, hora
salads, meze, casserole high quality service experience Mojo Bar of naxos, tel: +30
dishes, grilled meat turn a simple night wishes to provide to 22850 23326
and seafood, all made out into a unique and its guests. The first Italian trat-
of local ingredients pleasurable experi-
Ocean Dance toria in Naxos has
with traditional reci- ence. 06
Club been around for 16
pes. The plants and Situated on the sea-
paralia choras, tel: years on the island
flowers in the restau- front at the paralia
of Naxos town, Mojo +30 22850 27034 and locals and tourists
rant, which are taken Since 1987, Ocean alike have always told
Bar introduces you to
care of by Irini, create Club is definitely the us how pleased they
the relaxing atmos-
a unique environment. place where the heart are with our food.
phere of the best open
It is situated next to of Dionysuss island Girasole combines
air cocktail Bar in the
the port. beats. Nightclub- Italian specials with
early sunset and con-
Mojo Bar tinues till the sunrise bing is at its best in a ingredients from Nax-
05
paralia choras, with funky, disco, soul unique environment os, like the 40 types of
naxos, tel: +30 22850 and house, rhythms. of modern Cycladic handmade pizzas and
27034 The unique style, the architecture, amazing the 25 types of pasta.
An impressive scenery delightful cocktails atmosphere, famous The trattoria also has
unfolds before your (reasonably priced), DJ, parties and events. a good wine list.
eyes tuning you into the professional The place to see and
108/SYROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
Syros
The Capital of Cyclades
is a magical and buzzing
place with extraordinary
history.
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/
Elegant, busy and full ship-building and god who protected chaeological Museum
of history, Syros is un- services, giving Syros commerce, travellers (separate entrance on
like any other Cycladic a less touristy feel. and thieves. Platia the west side, Tel: +30
island. Inhabited since The capital and main Miaouli, the central 22810 88487, open
antiquity, it linked port, Ermoupoli, is the square of Ermoupoli, Tue-Sun 08:30-15:00)
its fortune with the administrative centre is surrounded by shops which presents a col-
Venetians, who took of the South Aegean and cafs, restored lection of artefacts ex-
control of the island in region and is spread neoclassical buildings, cavated in the area of
1207 and stayed until out from the port to trees and flocks of pi- Halandriani, as well as
their defeat from the the nearby hills. The geons flying overhead. Roman and Hellenistic
Ottomans, leading it Catholic neighbour- At one side stands the sculptures and vases.
to a period of great hood of Ano Syros is majestic Town Hall, Walking around town
economic development nestled to the left of the work of German you will see Apol-
and the forming of the the hill and the Ortho- architect Ernst Ziller, lon Theatre (Vardaki
largest community of dox neighbourhood who designed, among square), built in 1862-
Catholics in Greece. of Vrontado to the others, the Presidential 1864 on designs made
Apart from tourism, right. The name means Mansion in Athens. by French architect
the local economy is the city of Hermes, The same building also Chabeau. At the edge
based on agriculture, the ancient Greek houses the small Ar- of Ermoupolis stand
110/SYROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/
the chimneys and the Venetian popula- the prominent Greek and reach beaches,
cranes of the towns tion, its houses form musician and rebetiko you have to take one
old industrial centre a residential fortress composer, Markos of the boats that leave
which housed the with the Catholic Vamvakaris, who daily from Ermoupoli
old ship yards. Three Cathedral of Agios wrote Frangosyriani. or rent a car. Armeos
of these buildings Georgios dominating His museum (Tel: +30 is a nudist beach found
form the Industrial the village. The ma- 22813 60914, open in just a few minutes
Museum (Tel: +30 jestic view of the port daily 11:00-14:00 and walk from Galissas,
22810 81243, 84762) from the Cathedral 19:00-22:00) show- while one kilometre
housing a collection of is worth the huffing cases pictures and per- from Agathopes is the
20 machines, compo- and puffing you will sonal objects donated quiet beach of Komito.
nents and other objects endure from the count- by his relatives, as well On your way to Kini,
that testify to the citys less stairs leading to it. as original manuscripts you will see a sign
industrial heritage. The village is steeped of his songs. leading you to Lotos
Further up the hill in its medieval past, The beaches of Syros beach, filled with
from Ermoupolis is with narrow alleys may not be as impres- tamarisks for ample
Vaporia, an affluent and archways leading sive as in other island, shade. Other crowd-
part of the town where you to small squares, but they are also less less options include
the old mansions of pretty flowered yards noisy and are just the mid-sized beaches
Greek ship magnates and meandering alleys as clean. The most of Grammata in the
dominate with their where kids play all popular are the long northwest, Varvarousa
huge doors and marble day. The highlights of sandy Galissas, the and Aetos. Between
floors. the village include the fishing village of Kini, Azolimnos and Vari
The prettiest quarter is Monastery of the Cap- busy Agathopes filled are the hidden beaches
Ano Syros which has uchins built in 1653 with sun loungers and of Santorini and
a completely different and, further up the thatched umbrellas, Fabrica. At the south-
architecture from alley, the Monastery of the sheltered bay of western part of the
Ermoupoli. Built in the the Jesuits. Ano Syros Vari and Azolimnos. island, Finikas beach
13th century to protect is also the home of To enjoy more privacy has a few umbrellas
112/SYROS
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS syros
FOR
VISITORS/
Kouzina
Kouzina We also cook them are equipped with sites, the casino and
01
5 androu street, properly to maintain anything you might nightclubs.
ermoupoli, tel: +30 their benefits to our need. The rooms also Filomilas
2281 089150 health. We use organic have an attic to fit a 03
Greek Tavern
Kouzina knows the virgin olive oil in sal- third person, while azolimnou beach,
origin of the purest ads, using organic raw the suites are 50 sq. syros, tel: +30 22810
ingredients and brings ingredients is always a meters. With two 62088
them to your plate as priority. bedrooms for 4-6 peo- Two friends from
it co-operates with Lilas ple, a coffee maker, a Cephalonia set up a
local producers and 02 fridge, a safe, air con
Guesthouse mezedopolio in Syros
uses healthy produce ioannou kosma and hair drier. The with a lot of flare.
that makes all the & filikis eterias, colour, the decoration Every day they cook in
difference in flavour ermoupoli, syros, and the furniture are the kitchen traditional
and nutritional value. tel: +30 22810 82738 aesthetically pleasing. Cycladic dishes with
The menu is always An old mansion made The location is ideal carefully chosen from
seasonal, so we use of stone, which was as it is situated close the island ingredients
produce that has just restored in 2003, op- to the port in case you but also recipes from
been harvested from erates as a guest house need to take a trip to the East cooked with
the earth making our with three rooms and nearby islands. It is care. Apart from the
food tasty and clean. three suites, which also close to historical regular dishes, there
116/SYROS
LiFO
choice
syros
Jar
are also specialties of positive energy & personifies Greek hos- new caf-resto-bar.
the day which change sweet tales @ Syros pitality with an aura The beautiful yard
depending on the pro- island. Always ready of ancient Athens, of coloured in white
duce they have picked to delight you with Zeus and Hermes. and green, invites you
up at the market and exquisite, on-the spot Those who visit enjoy to try the few and
the same applies for prepared pastries, all the specialties of well-made Mediter-
desserts. With a glass savories, beverages the coffee shop as well ranean specials, like
or bottle of wine and funky cocktails as savoury and sweet moussakas with
from their selection of for your soul!! dishes made with local Syrian sausage, all
brands, Greek or for- products which you created with local
eign music, Filomila is can also buy and cook produce. Different
the summer favourite Greek Coffee them yourself using fish is offered every
05
of tourists. Shop your own recipes. day, so ask the waiter
miaouli square,
Jar he Dream to tell you whats on
04 ermoupoli, tel: +30 06
16 e. roidis theatrou offer. For dessert, the
2281 089248
street, ermoupoli, square, ermoupoli, rose-flavoured Turk-
In a restored neoclas- ish delight ice cream is
tel: +30 22810 79225 sical building at the tek: +30 22810 79416
Since its creation in The old Jardino re- ideal for your palate
center of Ermoupolis, and taste buds.
2008, jar spreads its the Greek Coffee Shop introduces itself as a
118/SYROS
LiFO
choice
syros
Athymaritis
ylo Eyewear
Podilato
Sifnos
Many people claim that
this is the most beautiful
island in Cyclades. Maybe
they are right!
photos by spiros staveris
If pirates roamed the recipes. The cookbook will see why the island after the capital and
Aegean today and had became a huge success is loved by gourmet main town, Apollonia.
a treasure map with X and was reprinted at Greeks and foreigners The village extends
marking the spot, that least 15 times. Today, alike. Sifnoss success from one end of the
X would be Sifnos. an overused copy of it has been its ability harbour to the other
The treasures of Sifnos is found in almost eve- to develop a healthy with several grocery
are revealed to the ry Greek household. local tourism industry stores, bakeries and
traveller one by one. Modern Sifnians have without altering the tavernas lining its
Its the quaint village embraced this heritage character of the island sea shore. The sandy
of Exabelos where and pay special atten- and its low-key charm. beach in the mid-
time has stopped, the tion to what is being So low key, that the dle of the harbour is
fresh seafood in Her- served on the table. annual summer ar- Agia Marina, which
ronissos, the flat rock Try the island spe- rival of a former Greek gathers mostly families
formations from which cialty, chickpea soup prime minister to the and people playing
you dive in the clear or chickpea balls, fried island goes largely un- ferociously with their
blue sea in Chrisopigi, small shrimp, known noticed. Sifnians seem wooden beach rackets.
the eclectic stores in as simiako garidaki, keen to keep things The waters are clean
Apollonia. The island local cheese like running this way, by and shallow, making
is the birthplace of xinomizithra, capers focusing on quality them ideal for kids,
Greeces most famous and casserole dishes, and not quantity. while adults can find
chef, Nikolaos Tsele- the delicious sesame Entering the rocky respite and a cold fruit
mentes, who authored bars made with local harbour of the island, juice on the nearby
the first complete honey, pies with white the visitor has the first caf-restaurant. The
cookbook on Greek halva, marzipans and view of Kamares, the old bakery of Venios
and French classic small pastries and you second busiest village (Kamares, Tel: +30
126/SIFNOS
/THE first discovered at the
GREEK
ISLANDS sifnos end of the 19th century
FOR and proved the area
VISITORS/
was inhabited from
Mycenaean times. The
well preserved 10-acre
citadel dominating
the top of the hill
shed light into the life,
activities and beliefs
of the people who
inhabited the area.
Apart from its historic
significance, the area
offers panoramic vistas
of the island and the
villages of Apollonia,
Ano Petali and Arte-
monas. At the edge of
the citadel stands the
small church of Agios
Andreas. The site is
situated on the way
to Vathi beach and
can be reached by car.
After you pass the 16th
century Monastery of
Firogia, turn right to-
wards the hill of Agios
Andreas.
The most popular
photos by spiros staveris
130/SIFNOS
LiFO
choice
Sifnos
Verina Suites/ some, like spa, air meal among friends. while youre on the
01
Verina Villa/ con, hamam, safe, TV, Argyris island where you
Verina Astra beach towels etc. Each 02 will feel like theyve
agia marina
platis gialos, sifnos, venue has its own kamares, sifnos, tel: known you and youve
tel: +30 22840 71525 charm. The suites are +30 22840 32352 known them for
Verina is located in- located near the hill of Situated right next years, Veranda, at the
side an olive tree grove the castle, where there to the beach, with a entrance to Apollonia,
and the sea is within is an ancient fortress is where you should
view over the port of
walking distance. in an open, cobble- head to. The place e
Kamares, Mr Argyris
Guests have been ar- stone area. The view
satisfies your appetite has been a standard
riving in Verina for a iis the entire Aegean,
with oven-cooked meeting point since
few years and the staff while in the villa you
meals and grilled 2004. For coffee in
makes sure they have can relax and exercise
meat, island special- the morning for cold
a pleasant stay. Either in the pool, or at the
ties, local ingredients snacks and waffles
you book one of the tennis court. The staff
and a large selection after noon and until
four apartments, the at Verina take care of
two suites, or the everything, like your of seafood and meze. sunset and for im-
seven luxury suites excursions to nearby Veranda bar aginative cocktails and
03 lounge music at night,
of Verina Astra, r the islands, yoga classes, apollonia,
even more luxurious or they can organ- sifnos, tel: +30 22840 Veranda is one of the
Verina Villa, you will ise a specific event 33969 most classic Cycladic
find all the amenities (wedding, christening, If youre looking for bar-restaurants, with a
you require and then reunion) or a simple a place to hang out great view.
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/
Serifos
mazing sandy beaches
will keep you by the sea
all day long,
in this beautifull
small island.
132/SERIFOS
Serifos is a very dry is- and which they later Avlomonas beach, one secluded cove called
land, even by Cycladic passed on to humans. of the busiest places Malliathiko. North
standards, but beauti- On a more historical to lay your sea-towel. of Megalo Livadi is
ful nonetheless. As the note, archaeological Livadakia beach is the quiet and pebbled
ferry approaches to evidence shows the only a short walk Avessalos beach.
the port, you see the island was inhabited away from the port South of Psili Ammos
characteristic white, in turn by the Cretans, and further south is is Agios Sostis beach
sugar-lump-like houses Phoenicians and the the wide, sandy Karavi located on one side
of Hora, the islands Mycenaeans. beach, preferred by of a small rocky pen-
main town, cover- Theres a fairly nudists. North of the insula. On the south
ing the hillside like organised bus service port is Lia beach, the coast is the pebbled
spilt milk. According connecting the port, popular and noisy Psili and secluded Ganema
to the myth, Serifos Livadi, to Hora, but Ammos and the sandy, beach and right next
was first inhabited the best idea is to rent long Agios Ioannis. to it is the sandy Vaya,
by the Cyclopes, the a car so that you can On the southwestern where you have to
mythical one-eyed discover the villages coast is Megalo Livadi, bring an umbrella as
monsters who built and beaches scattered a seafront village next there is not one green
and worked the local around the island. to the abandoned iron leaf in site. On the
iron mines, producing Right next to Livadi mines. Close to Meg- southeastern tip of the
wealth for the island is the crescent-shaped alo Livadi is another coast is Kalo Ambeli,
/THE
GREEK
ISLANDS serifos
FOR
VISITORS/
a small cove formed ers.gr), who organise and the small Archaeo- buildings and rails are
by two jutting rock diving trips, walks logical museum (Tel: a testament to the once
formations, where you into the old mines of +30 22810 31022) lively community of
will probably be alone. Megalo Livadi and all are worth a visit. A the miners who lived
Bring water and food. water sports, includ- nearby neoclassical and worked in the
Driving to the north- ing the newest craze, house houses the Folk area. You can still visit
east is the small Ken- Flyboard. Art Museum (open the abandoned mines,
darhos beach (follow Hora is a beautiful, from 18:00-21:00), which closed in 1963,
the path from Kallitsos quiet village with ar- where local costumes and see the old loading
village) with its few chetypical Cycladic ar- and tolls are exhibited. bridge rusting under
tamarisks providing chitecture and friendly Behind the building the hot sun.
much-needed shade. locals. The ruined 15th theres an open-air
Last but not least, century Venetian castle theatre with 300 seats
Sykamia beach on the towering the village which houses the an- Getting
northwest is a popular offers a great oppor- nual music festival. there: There are
place dotted with the tunity for a walk and At the north of Hora is many direct, daily
colourful umbrellas of panoramic views of the deserted settlement ferry services connect-
tourists. For those who the island and beyond. of Pyrgos which comes ing Piraeus port with
seek a little action on Right on the top of the to life on the festival Serifos. Check the
the beach, try Serifos steep hill is the church (panigiri) held on As- Getting to and from
Scuba Divers (Livadi, of Agios Constantinos. sumption Day (August the islands section for
Tel: +30 22810 52005, Back in the village, the 15th). In the village of ferry websites.
www.serifosscubadiv- neoclassical Town Hall Megalo Livadi, the old
on the island can be along the coastline, you the northwest you will welcomes nudists,
covered by foot or a enter the clothes-free find Parianos, a cove Mastroyiorgis, Pezoulia
bicycle, but you can zone on the beaches of with a wide sandy Fikio and Theti, four
also rent a motorcycle. Fanos and its camping beach well protected beaches and coves
A small piece of trivia: site, busy Italida and from the wind. blessed with the same
it seems every other further out the some- Theres not much crystal waters as the
persons surname on what quieter Pori. Keep variety in the culinary Upper island. There
the island is Prasinos an eye for the small world of Koufo- are a few fishing huts
(Green); therefore it is coves hidden behind nissi, but you will find scattered around, the
very likely that a Mr rock formations. They delicious fresh fish, church of Panagia
or Mrs Green will be are usually only big lobsters and seafood and a taverna. There
your local host, boat enough for you and delivered daily from are also daily services
captain, or taverna your significant other fishermen in local tav- from Hora to remote
owner. or a party of six at the ernas, as well as goat beaches and uninhab-
The island is rather most and offer privacy and lamb meat from ited islets. Koufonissi
flat and only has one and the amazing feel- local herds. is crowded during July
village, Hora, which is ing of being the only For a change in your and August so your
in essence an extension human on the planet. swimming routine, best chance of making
of the port. The first The island is full of take the boat to Kato the most of it is to
beach to be found on caves and interesting Koufonissi and choose arrive either in June or
Koufonissi is the port rock formations which between Nero, which September.
itself, Megali Ammos, is why it was named
a favourite among koufo, a variation of
families. If you start the word koufio - hol- Getting there: There are many daily
walking southwards low. A famous forma- ferry services connecting Piraeus port with Up-
(towards your left tion on the way to Pori per Koufonissi and daily services from Piraeus to
when facing the port) is the eye of the devil Naxos Island. From Naxos, there is a daily ferry
you will soon reach which is essentially a service connecting all the islands of the Small
Harokopou, which large, pool-like hole in Cyclades. Check the Getting to and from the
is also popular with the rocks with a beauti- islands section for ferry websites.
families. Continuing ful view of the sea. To
138/Koufonissia
LiFOce
i
cho issia
u fon
Ko
Milos
Sorocos night that you only of the island. There is music. As the night
01
Cocktail Bar experience in Sorocos. nothing old in Mylos begins to fall Mylos
ano koufonissi, tel: You will also find an despite the fact that is changes int its blue
+30 22850 71704 art exhibition room housed in an old but suit. The place comes
In this bar you will be where ceramics, as recently refurbished alive together with
sitting right next to well as other art mill. A magical spot the rest of the island.
the sea, with a view forms, are exhibited. that offers its visitors There is a true feel of
of Keros Island. Here Milos exquisite views to the what we call island
you will have your 02 Aegean and Keros. atmosphere at
ano koufinissi,
beer or a refresh- tel: +30 6978 693413, While you are at Mylos, the ideal spot
ing cocktail after 22850 74403 Mylos you will have for romancing while
swimming, while in A perfect coffee and the opportunity to you are on holidays
the evening you will cocktail bar situated enjoy fine coffees in here! Dont forget to
return to dance and right above the port the morning listening try the cocktails!
enjoy a summer to some chill out
140/Koufonissia
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u fon
Ko
Gastronaftis
Ateriasti
Gastronaftis visit the island and basis mezedes and And if you like these,
04
ano koufonissi, Gastronaftis. The local specialties full of you will definitely love
tel: +30 22850 71468 food satisfies all your fragrant herbs from the dusky grouper in
Its name signifies senses, with first and the Cycladic country. red sauce and the rice
someone who knows foremost your vision. Home-made filled with scampi. Here you
about gastronomy and The friendly service pastry, stuffed wine will also taste their
travels in the Greek and cosy atmosphere leaves with lemon and famous rakomelo
seas to bring you fresh are some of its advan- egg sauce, lamb with or raki drink, along
fish and seafood daily. tages. potatoes in the oven, with other beverages.
The food is authen- Ateriasti sea urchin spaghetti, The music here is
tic Mediterranean 05 mullets, moussakas by traditional folk songs
koufonissia, tel:
using good quality +30 22850 71834, 6944 Mrs Pothiti, aubergine as well as rebetika.
ingredients to create 244158 in pastry cooked in a Koufohorio
dishes which meet the ceramic pot by Me- 06
The traditional kato koufonissi,
expectations you have kitchen of Mrs Anna lenia are some of the tel: +30 22850 74507
when you choose to prepares on a daily dishes you will find. A cosy cafe-bar with
142/Koufonissia
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Ko
a playful and funny Kalamia caf come here. If you just is the only 4-star hotel
07
atmosphere. Iit will bar want to have a quiet of the Small Cyclades.
become your hangout ano koufonissi, tel: night out and listen to In a 17,000 sqm
joint during your stay +30 22850 74444 some music, you will venue you will find a
on the island. Coffee, Whatever you may again choose Kalamia. fully refurbished stone
homemade deserts want to eat or drink, Koufonissia house with a beauti-
and rakomelo await Kalamia is the place. 08 ful garden featuring
Hotel &
you to try them. In the Do you just want to Resort rare Mediterranean
evenings, the chosen have breakfast and ano koufinisi, tel: plants. Here you will
music is swing, soul a cup of coffee? You +30 2285074068 undoubtedly enjoy
and blues which signal will come here. Do Just 150 meters from one of its 50 rooms
the beginning of your you want to have a the crystal blue beach- and your dives into
night with drinks and dessert, ice cream or es of Ano Koufonissi the pool.
cocktails. a fruit juice? You will
144/Koufonissia
Amorgos
If you want to polish ditional customs and ing are some of the nect the main villag-
your French or Ital- reasonable prices. islanders favourite es. This initiative has
ian, Amorgos is the The island has two pastimes and Amor- proved a great suc-
place to do it, be- ports, Katapola and gos Diving Centre cess, with groups of
cause the island is Aegiali, and plen- (Aegiali, Tel: +30 islanders and tour-
full of tourists from ty of small settle- 22850 73611, email: ists criss-crossing
these two countries ments inland which scuba@amorgos- hills and valleys all
which proves their are worth a visit to diving.com, www. year round. As you
good taste. The east- observe the lifestyle amorgos-diving. hike through the ar-
ernmost island of of the islanders, es- com) plans all three. id land, you en-
the Cyclades is fa- pecially if you vis- The small compa- counter small white
mous for its beauti- it at the time of a ny started with div- churches (ksokli-
fully preserved main panigiri (festivals ing trips around sia), cisterns built to
village, Hora, and held on saints days, Amorgoss coast retain much need-
its celebrated crys- the main one be- line and soon add- ed rain water and
tal clear waters, im- ing on August 15th). ed hiking and walk- herds of goats graz-
mortalised in Luc Amorgos is dry and ing tours, all led by ing between shrubs.
Bessons movie The mountainous with experienced guides. Between the moun-
Big Blue. The is- its three highest In recent years, lo- tains, the hinter-
land is a quiet place peaks reaching be- cal authorities have land reveals the val-
where you will enjoy tween 630-890 me- mapped and marked ley of Kolofana at
archetypical Cyclad- tres high. Walking, seven main foot- the west, the biggest
ic architecture, tra- diving and climb- paths which con- on the island and
146/AMORGOS
/THE tian rule and has a it, but the view from
GREEK
ISLANDS amorgos castle to prove it. It the small plateau
FOR
VISITORS/ was built by Jeremi- which marks the en-
ah Gizis in the 13th trance to the mon-
century to defend the astery is well worth
island against invad- the effort. The mon-
ers who also built astery was built by
the church of Agi- Byzantine Empreror
os Georgios (Saint Alexios Komninos
George). The man- in 1088. If youre in
sion of Gavras hous- Amorgos on Novem-
es the Archaeological ber 21st, join locals
Museum (open Tue- at the panigiri organ-
Sun 09:00-13:00 and ised at the monastery
18:00-20:30) with its for a special treat of
impressive selection free local specialties
of statues, parts of and loads of dance.
columns and utensils Another interesting
dug out from three sight on the island
ancient settlements is the villa of Ian-
on the island. nis Xenakis - Greek
Tholaria is the most composer, theorist
picturesque village and architect - built
inland from Aegia- for his daughter and
li and should be visit- her husband between
ed in the evening for 1966 and 1977, close
dinner and a view of to Lefkes village,
the sunset. Langa- overlooking the gulf
da village, just before of Tirokomos. Xena-
Tholaria, is just as kis, who worked at
charming and worth Le Corbusiers stu-
the small valley of com has, among oth- a visit. Islanders dios between 1947
Katapola at the cen- er island informa- gather at the square and 1959, designed
tre. Look up and you tion, tips on geocach- of the lower neigh- a typical Cycladic
see the windmills es stashed around bourhood (kato gi- building with clear
standing proudly on the island, as well as tonia) to play bocce modernist elements,
the mountain ridge. a relevant map. with old ladies look- like the thunderbolt-
All those adventur- A walk around Ho- ing on from their like openings on the
ous souls out there, ra reveals the slow house entrances. walls. Built between
youd be happy to paced life of the is- Perched perilous- 1966 and 1977, it
know that Amor- landers. People ly on a rocky moun- consists of four white
gos has added it- leave their doors tainside 300 metres separate buildings
self in the geocach- open, whiffs of ov- above sea level, the forming a curve.
ing community (an en cooked beef es- Byzantine monastery Amorgos has a few
elaborate treasure cape from the green of Panagia Hozovi- beaches which are
hunt). If your mobile and red shutters otisa, patron saint easily accessible, but
phone has a GPS, log and stray cats roam of the island, has a for the rest you will
in www.geocaching. around lazily, hoping remarkable collec- need to do some easy
com, follow the in- to find a little some- tion of rare icons or more serious hik-
structions and youre thing to eat. Just like and manuscripts. ing. Get a map, a
good to go. The the other Cycladic Climbing up the end- bottle of water and
website www.amor- villages, this one al- less stone steps is a walking shoes and
gos-island-magazine. so was under Vene- feat in its own mer- youre ready to go.
148/AMORGOS
/THE of sand with pris- white sand forms a ry and detailed work
GREEK
ISLANDS amorgos tine water which natural, picture per- has earned Amorgian
FOR
VISITORS/ can be reached ei- fect peninsula. If embroidery a place
ther by boat, or by a the beach is full by in the Metropoli-
35-minute walk. Af- the time you reach it, tan Museum of Art,
A favoured option ter a 20-minute walk walk about 20 min- which houses a fine-
is Agia Anna, whose from Ormos, you utes south of Agios ly embroidered linen
crystal clear blue wa- will see Levrosos, Pavlos and you will strip from the 18th
ters featured in "The the perfect beach for find small seclud- century.
Big Blue". If you nudists. At the south, ed beaches. From Amorgos is not a
continue driving past there is sandy Perivo- the side of Katapola, party island, but you
Agia Anna you will las, the small cove of you will find in turn will find a few quiet
find Kambi, a beach Kato Kambos, Para- the organised Malte- bars to sip your beer.
popular with nud- disia and Kalotariti- zi beach, Agios Pan-
ists. In southeast- sa. From Kalotariti- teleimonas, Kato Ak-
ern Amorgos, close Getting
sa you can cross by rotiri and Finikies.
there: There are
to Vroutsi village is boat to the uninhab- Amorgian women
many daily ferry and
Mouros beach which ited island of Gram- are known as excel- catamaran services
can be reached by vousa for a swim. lent embroiders. The connecting Piraeus
car and then you de- The quiet beach of linen and silk white and Rafina ports with
scend a dirt path Agios Pavlos is close headscarves embroi- Amorgos. For ferry
for 10 minutes to to the namesake vil- dered with floral pat- websites check the
reach its rocky shore. lage. At the tip of terns make for a gor- Getting to and from
Psili Ammos beach the cove, a 10-me- geous neck scarf. the islands section.
is a long stretch tre long stretch of Their level of artist-
LiFOce
i
cho os
org
am
arouso allisto
Aegialis Hotel will drink your coffee find in Greece, with then eat your dessert:
01
& Spa and have breakfast, at rebetika music, good Filo desserts with
egiali, amorgos, tel: Ambrosia restaurant quality alcohol, great syrup, ice cream, cakes
+30 22850 73393 you will have lunch seafood. The house and tarts that will
Staying at Aegialis or dinner, while if you specialty is the stuffed make your day.
Hotel & Spa is some- crave Italian you will calamari. Evdokias Car
thing more than a visit the new Nicks 04
allisto & Bike Rental
simple choice. It is Pizza. In the evening 03
hora of aegiali village,
the place where youll you may go for a drink amorgos, tel: +30 tel: +30 22850 73050,
never be bored. It and some dancing at 22850 74094 www.askaspension.gr
may be a hotel but it Fresh Bar. To relax, As you stroll around A car hiring company
offers many different all you have to do is the alleyways of Hora, which can cover all
activities. You will visit the spa or attend you will be enticed by your needs during
either stay in one of the yoga classes being the smells and you will your holidays. The
the six buildings of offered. find yourself in front company has a fleet of
Cycladic architecture arouso of this pastry shop- new cars and scooters
and decoration, in a 02
arkesini, caf where you will (125 cc) available daily
room or one of the amorgos, tel: +30 enjoy a hearty break- to those who want to
suites, all of which 22850 72331 fast made from local explore the beauti-
are fully equipped. At Traditional taverna, produce, drink coffee, ful landscape of the
Corte Wet Caf you one of those you only tea or other drinks and island. To better serve
152/AMORGOS
Amorgos Diving Centre
Botilia Bar
(dedicated to the find- port. with a two-faced long years of the tyranny of
ing of the holy icon) The church of the stoa and a small Doric Peisistratos in Athens,
which is located at the Holy Cross where you peristyle temple of the the island acquired an
first floor of Evange- can see relics of the 2nd century BC with aqueduct built between
listria church, you will harbor breakwaters a sanctum altar and a 549 and 542 BC. What
find the memorial to (1816). fountain. Roman baths is amazing is that Tinos
the soldiers who lost The ruins of the wall and imperial statues stopped depending on
their lives when Elli of the ancient city. of the period 1st-3rd that aqueduct for its
was sunk. The memorial to the centuries AD have also water supplies only
The Art Gallery Fallen (1912) offering been found in the same in1934!
exhibiting remarkable an amazing view of the area. One can come across
works of Greek and port. Agia Thekla: Myce- other archaeological
foreign painters. The Archaeological naean tholos tombs of finds in the area of
The Small Park Museum exhibiting the 13th century BC the villages Gastria,
where you can observe findings from the sanc- with lots of pottery and Vryokastro, and Marla.
the busts of major Tin- tuaries of Demeter and jewellery items have Churches and Monas-
ian artists. Poseidon (7th century) been found. teries on Tinos
Agios Nikolaos and Amphitrite (dating Exombourgo: It Tinos is the island
Katholikon Church. back to the Hellenistic used to be the most of Virgin Mary, the
Koimisis tis Theo- period). important ancient town religious island of the
tokou church. The Tinian Artists of the island, built in Cyclades par excel-
The fountain dating Museum. the 8th century BC. lence. No wonder over
back to the reign of To remind the glory 750 churches lie on its
Otto, first King of Archaeological days, there are now land, with 220 of them
Greece (19th century). sites on Tinos remnants in the area, being Catholic ones.
The building of the Kionia: The sanctu- comprising those of a Apart from the church-
Foundation of Tinos ary of Poseidon and temple dedicated to the es of Panagia (=Virgin
Civilization exhibiting Amphitrite has been goddesses Demeter and Mary) and Evresis, in
works made by the re- discovered close to the Persephone. Geometric the town of Tinos there
nowned Greek sculptor village of Kionia. It and archaic vessels are also the churches
Giannoulis Chalepas. used to be a Hellenistic have been found too. of Agios Ioannis, the
The location known sanctuary of great The Peisistratos Taxiarhes church with
as Pallada near the religious importance Aqueduct: During the the iconostasis of the
158/TINOS
18th century, and the a wooden iconostasis LiFO
Catholic churches of of 1775 await you at choice
Agios Nikolas and the church of Agia TINOS
Agios Antonios. Aikaterini.
In Falatado, you can In Ysternia, you will
visit the marble church see the Katapoliani
of Agios Ioannis and Holy Convent of 1786,
the largest church on the church of Agia
Tinos, Agia Triada, Paraskevi with the
built in 1610. fantastic iconostasis,
In Steni, dont miss the and one of the oldest
church of Agios Anto- churches on the island,
nios, as it is decorated Agios Athanasios.
by a wonderful wood On mount Tsiknias,
carved iconostasis of there is the church of Sivillaki
the 17th century, as Faneromeni, provid-
well as by an impres- ing services for both
sive epitaph and some the Catholic and the Sivillaki syrups and juices. Lo-
01
old icons. Orthodox believers. afentouli & 1 cals say this is the best
In Ksinara is situated In the area of Kalloni, taxiarhon street, place in town, with
the Catholic church of there is the Catholic tinos, tel: +30 697 reasonable prices, fair
Panagia of the Rosario, church of Panagia 436 5110 amounts of alcohol,
which happens to be Vryssiotissa, with the A bar where ethnic impressive cocktails,
the seat of the Arch- icon of Panagia (Virgin music meets jazz, groovy, funk, blues,
bishop of Tinos. Mary) that had been beautiful cocktails soul, and ethnic
In Kampos, some more found there in the 17th made with fresh fruits music and events with
wonderful icons and century. unite with homemade known DJs.
/ THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS /
Useful tips
There are a few things you need to know before you embark
on your dream island holiday.
1. Items that will prove useful on your trip: the risk of being harassed by the police or a
Apart from sunblock, sunglasses, walking local home/taverna owner. The best bet for
shoes and a broad-rimmed sun hat, you a safe camp is to choose a destination off the
should also bring plenty of mosquito repel- mainstream tourists radar, like Anafi, Ikaria
lents (creams, lotions, etc.), a universal plug and the small Cyclades. The unwritten rule
adapter and one or two good reads for the for campers is to leave the site exactly as you
beach or your longer or shorter boat trips to found it or better. Take a last look around
and from the islands. before you leave, making sure you have not
2. Ladies, I know your swimsuits are beauti- forgotten any garbage, and discard any items
ful, but make sure you are wearing appropri- in the appropriate bins.
ate clothing when visiting a church or mon- 5. Tourists often look puzzled by signs or
astery. Trousers or skirt to cover your thighs announcements made by boat owners that
and a shirt will do the trick. Men should also a trip to a certain beach is cancelled because
wear a T-shirt and long trousers. Excluding of bad weather, when in fact theres not
religious sites, you are urged to be sartorially a single cloud in the sky and the sunlight
adventurous. is glaring. Boat owners are referring to the
3. Nudism is not illegal in Greece but there winds. In most islands during the summer
is a law against breaching public morality. and especially in Cyclades northern winds
The law is rather vague but essentially means (known as meltemia) can be too strong for
you cannot be naked in public. However, it small boats to navigate around rocky pen-
is widely tolerated, provided you abide to insulas, especially when theyre packed with
the basic rule of choosing a secluded beach tourists. Boat owners choose to play it safe
(i.e. with no families around). In a handful of so that you dont throw up in their caique.
islands you may find sign posts on the beach, Choose a beach at a walking distance for
designating it as nudism-friendly. Generally, the day and try again tomorrow. To avoid
the more isolated the beach, the more likely it disappointment, do not leave the best (and
is to be populated by nudists. A good source furthest) beach for last. If the sea is calm on
of information is the tourists who have been your first day on the island, go to the one
on the island longer than you. which is only approached by boat. You never
4. Free camping is forbidden. You are only know when the winds will pick up.
allowed to camp in official camping sites Was it helpful? Feel free to send your
which exist in all the above islands. Having feedback, comments, curses and anything
said this, you could perhaps camp out on a else to the editor: Daphne Papadopoulou at
remote beach, but remember that you run daphnepa@gmail.com.
160/USEFUL TIPS
your free copy
/GREEK
ISLANDS
FOR
VISITORS/