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The Craft Beer
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Winery Guide
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Maps
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CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About
Big Top Wines............................................................. 6 Bars............................................................................... 22
You Can Dance if you Want to............................... 6 Dining out.................................................................. 24
Go Out and Catch Trout........................................... 6 Winery Guide........................................................... 26
PORTUGUS
CREDITS
Issue DECEMBER 2017- JANUARY 2018 -
ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613
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NEWS REPUBLIC
Big Top Wines
Concept wineries dont have to be multi-million dollar
projects done with hyperbole and on a grand scale. They
can also be much more simple and personal and done
with one, poetic and intriguing idea. Wine y Circo is one
such place, a tiny garage winery in Uco Valley, producing
40,000 bottles, devoted to the theme of the circus and its
colorful performers. El Equilibrista (tightrope walker)
serves as a metaphor for balance and concentration and
the wines grand stand such qualities. Located in one of
Mendozas most prestigious sub-regions La Consulta,
the winerys entrance is a memorable arrangement of
recycled containers painted fire engine red and looks
like am entrance to the big top. As youd expect the
wines are expressive, well structured and balanced. This
is certainly one of Mendozas most original and quirkiest
wineries.
Open every day. Tel. 02622 153 54 4772
RN 92. La Consulta, San Carlos.
www.wine-y-circo.business.site
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Lights, camera, WINE !
The
Tasting
Couch
Leandro Manini Williams takes a look at movies about Argentine wine
Wine is something we love to have with someone or even Dominio del Plata, Susana Balbo, advises Charlie to focus
alone. Something similar can be said about movies. A on the land and the fruit in order to get the real taste of
nice bottle and a good film make for an excellent night what hes drinking.
in, especially if we just want to relax on the couch.
While swirling a full glass, lets take a look into cinematic One of my favorite parts its when the sommelier,
productions that have Argentine wine as their core idea. without anybody knowing, find his ways into the wine
cellar of the Norton Winery to taste the best and oldest
Hollywood discovered with the famous Oscar nominee wines (to recover his palate, of course). An English
Sideways that you could get many smiles from wine speaking person walks in. Charlie mistakes him for a
related movies. After this story of two friends going tourist who has lost his way. Later, he finds out that hes
through the wine lands of Santa Barbara, other movies Gernot Langues, not only the owner of Norton but also
like Bottle Shock about a wine competition in 1976 the head of the Swarovski Enterprise. Another famous
between Californian and French wines, proved that you person of the wine world is Michele Rolland, a very well
could make good stories related to wine. A couple of years known wine consultant.
later the British production of A Good Year with Russell
Crowe as a city trader lumbered with a French estate
showed that other countries were able to make successful
movies around this idea. It wasnt long before Argentines
decided to jump on a project with local flavor.
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El Camino del Vino is also a true story. While they were
shooting the film, Artuarola had some family issues that
ended up being recorded by the camera and helped the
film look very realistic. At one point you can even see his
wife asking the cameras to leave. Also, Catena Zapata,
Domaine Bousquet and Clos de los Siete, plus the Hyatt
Hotel, were used as locations to film the movie. It is an
amazing film that will remind us that there are always
ways to recover our passion. Furthermore, it would give
you many expressions to use when you are speechless in
front of a wine.
This wineis a poem! is definitely my favorite.
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But all that glitters is not gold. Documentaries like Bitter
Grapes Slavery in the Vineyards, directed by the
Danish filmmaker Tom Heinemann, pointed out the poor
workers conditions in South Africa.
to look down on the natives of Argentina, because in his The director had already seen Mondovino before
opinion they are lazy and illiterate. Alternatively, the making Boom Varietal, and you can tell how he wanted
movie team interviews a poor man from the community to do something knowledgeable but also entertaining
of Tomboln. He shows his one hectare of Torronts he and more beautiful. Be ready to enjoy the marvelous
owned, which he had cultivated with passion even if he scenery of the Andes while some of the main characters
didnt receive a lot of money (only enough to survive). In of the Argentinean wine metamorphosis like Santiago
response to the controversy the movie provoked, Etchart Achaval, the first Argentinean wine producer to achieve
claimed his words were taken out of context. five stars in the Decanter Magazine - are interviewed
about the crucial years of this transformation.
Another documentary Boom Varietal was released for
the pleasure of Malbec lovers. Knowing that this variety It doesnt matter if you want to become a wine expert or
was taking off, Kirk Ermisch - President of the Southern just laugh with a glass of wine next to you. movies about
Wine Group, and the director Sky Pinnick, joined forces wine do both.
to create this documentary about how and why the
French grape Malbec seems to have found its right place
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Beer Drinkers of the World!
Unite and
Take Over.
Charlie OMalley hails the Great Beer Revolution
Would you mind dropping us off at a bar? Wow! This beer actually tastes of something. Look! Its
even cloudy.
Every Mendoza wine tour guide is familiar with this
request. After a day touring wineries, sampling the It seems dissatisfaction with mass produced, industrial
finest Malbecs, even the hardiest wine lovers crave beer is universal. Only a teetotaller, or indeed a Russian
something different. The exhausted palate demands a pee drinking astronaut for that matter, would have missed
refreshing, cold beer to finish the day nicely. All those the global shift towards small, independent brewers. The
tannins coating the inner jowls like old wallpaper and craft beer boom has arrived in Mendoza. First it was
those purple painted teeth need a thorough rinsing quirky little labels made by home brewers from such
with a decidedly un-tannic lager or ale. Observe any diverse places as Palmira in the desert and El Salto in the
winemaker you know they all love beer. mountains.
Five years ago the quality of beer in Mendoza was poor. Then the tap rooms appeared Antares, Hangar 52 and
Walk into any bottle store or sidewalk bar and the choice Jerome for example. The locals had a whole new set of
was bewildering Quilmes, Andes, Brahma, Warsteiner, vocabulary to miss-pronounce ipa, weisse, stout and
Schneider, Heineken, Stella Artois, Budweiser and red ale. Now Mendoza boasts some 165 micro-breweries.
Carlsberg. But such huge choice is deceptive. They all There is 200% growth year on year and market share
taste pretty much the same bland and insipid; a gut is 2.7% of what is a 17 billion litre beer industry. Such
corroding pee water. In fact one could argue the case phenomenal growth still has some way to go. In the
that they all come from the same tank, not just because USA the booming craft beer market is currently 12% of
of their uniform mediocrity but also the fact that the the market and is projected to reach 20% in the next five
majority are owned by the same company AB InBev. years.
Back then, one sadly just had to get on with it. As awful as
the beer was, it slaked your thirst like a chilled, Russian Like giants waking up from a drunken slumber, the multi-
astronauts piss might in an outer space emergency. And nationals have realised they are losing out. Action is required
most importantly it still got you drunk. before their shareholders start voting with their feet. Rather
than actually try and improve the quality of their existing
And then things began to change. An unusual bottle of products, the corporate solution is to move in with money
Mendoza brewed beer would pop up at a party and cause and hoover up the more successful independents. This is
a mini-sensation. especially attractive as craft beer is up to double the price of
the Duff stuff from the corner store.
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The corporate fight back is well under way in the USA
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Where to Buy Your Bottle
El Botelln
Locaated in the 5th Section towartds the
park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has
at least 14 varieties - Nuevo Origen, La
Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst
others. You can fill your own bottle and
they have a gluten free option
Justo Al Paso
A bar and bottle store on Juan B Justo
with beers from such diverse place as San
Luis and Bariloche, many of them award
winning brews.
Happy Hour from 7 to 10pm
The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.
LA TABERNA DE MOE
This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a
young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool
posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin
Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a
kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer.
Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317
ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.
BLACK SHEEP
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-
style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.
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BIKE TOURS
In Maip
The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious
for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a
puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu
is urban and not pretty.
RECOMMENDED WINERIES
Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly
Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent El
Enemigo.
USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine
and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage
in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be
alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables.
Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs
you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to
buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so
bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems
getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables
Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric
hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga.
CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you
are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is
generally 30 centavos less.
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DINING OUT Recommended
La Patrona Organo
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Thin-crusted gourmet style pizzas and Los Toneles
casual, rustic charm attracts with sandwiches are the specialties crafted
traditional Argentine food and by celebrity gourmet couple Vanina
friendly and warm atmosphere. Chimeno and Francis Mallman. Pizza
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado lovers can customize their own with Los Toneles
go with warm, open sandwiches. We high quality ingredients and watch
recommend the artichoke hearts how theyre made in the clay oven. We Located 15 minutes walk beyond the
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables recommend the lomo (steak) sandwich city center, this handsome historical
with white wine and honey; or the with garlic aoli (mayonnaise) and the winery offers Old World elegance
more traditional pick of rich glands dulce de leche pancakes. This new and atmosphere. The expansive
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel restaurant is located in an elegant restaurant serves traditional dishes
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- building with inside or outside dining. with a gourmet twist and its the
3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal h t t p : //re s t a u ra n t e o re g a n o . c o m perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
cost: $220. Rivadavia 789, Mendoza 5500, Argentina who have just arrived and want
info@restauranteoregano.com some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Josefina Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel -
431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina lunch and dinner.
Rest is an island of elegance on
hectic Aristides Street. The building
is a playful mix of the urbane and Grill Q
the natural. The warmth of vintage
style drawings adorning the walls
are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows. The
food is eclectic and seasonal. www.
josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides
Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, Torito
Argentina Tel. 261 4233531
Torito is alluring the crowds to Juan
B Justo Street, the new IT place in
El Mercadito Mendoza for a night out. Classic
Argentinean comfort food is cooked
The perfect spot for some lunch time on a huge grill with very traditional
sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by options such as burgers, lomos (steak
three friends, El Mercadito has a cool sandwiches) and cuts of beef. Fresh
vibe and relaxed music making it a and excellent quality ingredients are
favorite. Opening in the morning for used and the menu includes vegan
and gluten free options. Football
fans are welcome to big games and
their outside courtyard is perfect Grill Q
Josefina for balmy summer nights. www.
facebook.com/toritotime Juan B. Chic parrilla style restaurant (part
Justo 234, Mendoza 5500, Argentina of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
Tel. 0261 423-3394 kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serves
Brod hearty Argentine classics such as
locro a stew that hails back to
Charming bakery coffee shop with the early independence days. The
expansive courtyard set in old Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
colonial townhouse one block from offers a more gourmet evening menu
Plaza Independencia. Excellent for and the most exuberant lunch menu
light lunches and battery charging in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
coffee stops. Great wine selection Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
next door at Winery wine store M - Executive Menu $280.
can be purchased and sampled in
courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993.
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Recommended
DINING OUT
Ruca Malen
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THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo Maip Valle de Uco
Los Toneles
LUJN
Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine
nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran can be enjoyed from their terrace
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
DE CUYO overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa
Flores, s/n, Perdriel,
www.bodegacruzat.com
The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and
Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes
bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com
Mendel Matervini
Terrazas de los Andes
An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago
Argentinas most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs. This tiny, boutique
mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the
winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Via Cobos Tel. 261 5616691.
Luigi Bosca
American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano
The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise
family of Argentine wine and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with
seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co
luigibosca.com.ar
Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery
end restaurant Terruo and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com com.ar
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THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery
Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendozas most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French-
old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
2614, Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Caelum
Decero
Modern, medium size winery on Chandon
the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with
the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com
Vistalba
Dominio del Plata
Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen
Argentinas most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and
some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261)
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style
a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190
bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer info@bodegaestrelladelosandes.com
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THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo Maip Valle de Uco
Trez Wines
AMP Cava
Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural
winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different
winery.Tel.4877085y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
+54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
turismo@trezwines.com wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gmez Adriano
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maip -
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048
Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar
Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with
vineyards of southern Maip. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a
Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com.
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maip. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial
Carinae
Finca Agostino
Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned
Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and
with ancient vines and walled Argentinas biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by
orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maip .
ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip. www.carinaevinos.com
www.trapiche.com.ar
El Enemigo
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THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery
Finca Sophenia
The Vines of Mendoza
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MAP OF
WINE TOUR
MAIP
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MAP OF
SAN MARTIN
PARK
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