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ISSN 1853-9610

N88 DECEMBER- JANUARY 2018

Something is
Brewing
The Craft Beer
Boom in Mendoza

Winery Guide
Restaurants
Maps

w w w.wine-republic.com 1
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CONTENTS
News Republic Out & About
Big Top Wines............................................................. 6 Bars............................................................................... 22
You Can Dance if you Want to............................... 6 Dining out.................................................................. 24
Go Out and Catch Trout........................................... 6 Winery Guide........................................................... 26

The Tasting Couch - Lights, camera, WINE Maps & More


Leandro Manini Williams takes a look at movies 8 Useful information.................................................. 20
about Argentine wine................................................. Map of Mendoza City Center............................... 30
Map of Maip............................................................ 32
Beer Drinkers of the World! Map of Chacras de Coria........................................ 34
Unite and Take Over! Charlie OMalley hails the Map of San Martn Park......................................... 34
Great Beer Revolution......................................................... 14

PORTUGUS

CREDITS
Issue DECEMBER 2017- JANUARY 2018 -
ISSN 1853-9610.
10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.
Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.
Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613

Editor: Charlie OMalley


Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gmez Rus:
publicidad@wine-republic.com,
mariana@wine-republic.com
Design: Circlan.com .
Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.
Contributors: Gabriela Raimondo -Leandro Manini
Williams- Mariana Gmez Rus
Printer: Artes Grficas UNION

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not


necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine
Republic www.wine-republic.com

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NEWS REPUBLIC
Big Top Wines
Concept wineries dont have to be multi-million dollar
projects done with hyperbole and on a grand scale. They
can also be much more simple and personal and done
with one, poetic and intriguing idea. Wine y Circo is one
such place, a tiny garage winery in Uco Valley, producing
40,000 bottles, devoted to the theme of the circus and its
colorful performers. El Equilibrista (tightrope walker)
serves as a metaphor for balance and concentration and
the wines grand stand such qualities. Located in one of
Mendozas most prestigious sub-regions La Consulta,
the winerys entrance is a memorable arrangement of
recycled containers painted fire engine red and looks
like am entrance to the big top. As youd expect the
wines are expressive, well structured and balanced. This
is certainly one of Mendozas most original and quirkiest
wineries.
Open every day. Tel. 02622 153 54 4772
RN 92. La Consulta, San Carlos.
www.wine-y-circo.business.site

You Can Dance if you


Want to
Bodegas Caro now showcase tango performances every
Thursday night. Food, dance and live music take place in
the atmospheric cellars of what is one of Mendozas most
beautiful, traditional wineries, just five minutes by taxi
from Mendoza city center. Tickets are 1000 pesos and
include cheese platters and excellent wines. If this is not
enough you can then pop next door to Francis Mallmans
1884 restaurant.
Presidente Alvear 151, Godoy Cruz. (0261) 4530 963.
hospitality@bodegascaro.com.ar

Go Out and Catch Trout


Fly fishing season is upon us. Patagonia steals all
the thunder with its monster brown trout attracting
fishermen and women from all over the World. Most
visitors are surprised to hear that Mendoza also has
its fair share of wily river residents that will give any
angler a run for his money. The sizeable army of local
enthusiasts guard this secret jealousy and actively
discourage foreigners from encroaching on their favorite
spots. Well now the secret is out Mendozas rivers
are teeming with trout. Whilst they might not match
the giants of the South in size, they certainly do so in
numbers and it is not unusual for a beginner to catch
twenty in one day, usually in Valle de Uco or Uspallata.
Catch and release is the norm. Trout & Wine Tours
organise one day fishing excursions starting at 220 US
per person.
Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266, Tel 42556134 /
155 413 892. www.troutandwine.com.

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Lights, camera, WINE !

The
Tasting
Couch
Leandro Manini Williams takes a look at movies about Argentine wine

Wine is something we love to have with someone or even Dominio del Plata, Susana Balbo, advises Charlie to focus
alone. Something similar can be said about movies. A on the land and the fruit in order to get the real taste of
nice bottle and a good film make for an excellent night what hes drinking.
in, especially if we just want to relax on the couch.
While swirling a full glass, lets take a look into cinematic One of my favorite parts its when the sommelier,
productions that have Argentine wine as their core idea. without anybody knowing, find his ways into the wine
cellar of the Norton Winery to taste the best and oldest
Hollywood discovered with the famous Oscar nominee wines (to recover his palate, of course). An English
Sideways that you could get many smiles from wine speaking person walks in. Charlie mistakes him for a
related movies. After this story of two friends going tourist who has lost his way. Later, he finds out that hes
through the wine lands of Santa Barbara, other movies Gernot Langues, not only the owner of Norton but also
like Bottle Shock about a wine competition in 1976 the head of the Swarovski Enterprise. Another famous
between Californian and French wines, proved that you person of the wine world is Michele Rolland, a very well
could make good stories related to wine. A couple of years known wine consultant.
later the British production of A Good Year with Russell
Crowe as a city trader lumbered with a French estate
showed that other countries were able to make successful
movies around this idea. It wasnt long before Argentines
decided to jump on a project with local flavor.

El Camino del Vino (The Wine Route) is the story of


a renowned sommelier who loses his taste buds. As he
happens to be in Mendoza surrounded by wonderful
wines, his wife encourages him to visit places so he can
re-discover his passion. It is worth mentioning two things
that make this movie unique. To begin with, many famous
people of the wine world act in the movie. The man
who plays the part of sommelier is Charlie Artuarola, a
remarkable Uruguayan sommelier. Many owners of
wineries are shown in the movie. For instance, the two
times president of Wines of Argentina and owner of

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El Camino del Vino is also a true story. While they were
shooting the film, Artuarola had some family issues that
ended up being recorded by the camera and helped the
film look very realistic. At one point you can even see his
wife asking the cameras to leave. Also, Catena Zapata,
Domaine Bousquet and Clos de los Siete, plus the Hyatt
Hotel, were used as locations to film the movie. It is an
amazing film that will remind us that there are always
ways to recover our passion. Furthermore, it would give
you many expressions to use when you are speechless in
front of a wine.
This wineis a poem! is definitely my favorite.

Vino Para Robar is also a very easy going movie.


Although the movie was made with comedians instead
of wine experts, you can still breathe the atmosphere of
wine. Robar is Spanish for steal, but the title plays with
the two meanings of the word Vino: it could mean wine
or he came. Daniel Hendler performs the part of an
international robber who travels from BA to Mendoza to
steal something very precious, a bottle of Malbec ordered
by Napoleon III in the 19th Century. In the meantime, he
meets Andrea Bertucceli, who plays another international
thief that is looking for the same valuable item. Later, they
are kidnapped by a gangster and they will have to work
together, falling in love in the process.

Filmed in 2015, the movie caused a stir amongst


Mendocinos. The robbers had to steal the famous Malbec
from the Banco Hipotecario nowadays the Secretary of
Culture, located in the middle of the city. The production
not only closed many city streets but also recruited many
locals as extras.

The film showcases the most beautiful Mendocino


locations such as Espacio Julio Le Parc art gallery,
Cacheuta Hot Springs, General San Martn Park, the
Hyatt Hotel and San Martin square. Of course, wineries
couldnt be absent. You can see O.Fournier and Septima,
as well as the interiors of Salentein.

According to the myth around this particular bottle of


Malbec, those who drink it will find eternal love. Thats
why my favorite part is when spoiler alert! - the two
lovers open the bottle and make a toast at the end of the
movie. Different to what it would have happened in a
romantic movie, while the credits are displayed you can
see the rejection faces that anybody would have when
trying a 170 years old Malbec.

Wine documentaries are experiencing a boom. Somm is


a movie about four wine sommeliers who are training to
get to the pinnacle of wine appreciation and pass Master
Sommeliers exam. As crazy as the exam may be, you end
up learning a lot about wine descriptors and regions in
different countries. Another documentary I strongly
recommend is Red Obsession. Russell Crowe as narrator
guides you through the Chinese wine push that has
made this country one of the largest wine producers and
importers in the world.

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But all that glitters is not gold. Documentaries like Bitter
Grapes Slavery in the Vineyards, directed by the
Danish filmmaker Tom Heinemann, pointed out the poor
workers conditions in South Africa.

The most famous negative wine documentary is


Mondovino where American filmmaker Jonathan
Nossiter wants to show two different kind of wineries:
the Coca-cola style operations that are just concerned
about producing millions of litters, with a standard flavor
that will allow many sales, or the ones that stay loyal to
their traditions and go for a more unique style, even if
these implies to less sales.

In a country like Argentina with many foreign investors


and external wine consultants, Nossiter couldnt avoid
visiting the lovely province of Salta, in the north. The
movie team visited the Etchart Winery, in the Cafayate
region. This was the first winery in the country to work
with the assistance of Michel Rolland, who features
prominently in the movie, not always in the most
favourable light.

You can see the global debate between globalization


and local terroir in an Argentinean segment. On the one
hand, you have Arnaldo Etchart. He was the owner of
the Etchart winery, at least before the French company
Penrod Ricard bought it. He praised the changes that
Rolland had introduced to the wine country, which
allowed Arnaldo to export his production. He appears

in the land of gauchos. Oremiered at the Oregon Festival


of 2011, it was the movie with the largest audience, and
has won many awards since.

Ermisch had witnessed the rising of the Australian Shiraz


and when he realized that Malbec was going on the
same route, he thought about making this movie, trying
to catch as accurately as possible the expansion of this
varietal. Also, he wanted to educate people all over the
world about this lovely grape.
I think the movie is everything you need if you want to
be a Malbec expert. From the origins in France until its
modern development, it shows you how a single grape
has changed the wine culture of Argentina. Lets not
forget that this country used to consume more blends
than single-varietal wines in the past.

to look down on the natives of Argentina, because in his The director had already seen Mondovino before
opinion they are lazy and illiterate. Alternatively, the making Boom Varietal, and you can tell how he wanted
movie team interviews a poor man from the community to do something knowledgeable but also entertaining
of Tomboln. He shows his one hectare of Torronts he and more beautiful. Be ready to enjoy the marvelous
owned, which he had cultivated with passion even if he scenery of the Andes while some of the main characters
didnt receive a lot of money (only enough to survive). In of the Argentinean wine metamorphosis like Santiago
response to the controversy the movie provoked, Etchart Achaval, the first Argentinean wine producer to achieve
claimed his words were taken out of context. five stars in the Decanter Magazine - are interviewed
about the crucial years of this transformation.
Another documentary Boom Varietal was released for
the pleasure of Malbec lovers. Knowing that this variety It doesnt matter if you want to become a wine expert or
was taking off, Kirk Ermisch - President of the Southern just laugh with a glass of wine next to you. movies about
Wine Group, and the director Sky Pinnick, joined forces wine do both.
to create this documentary about how and why the
French grape Malbec seems to have found its right place

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Beer Drinkers of the World!
Unite and
Take Over.
Charlie OMalley hails the Great Beer Revolution

Would you mind dropping us off at a bar? Wow! This beer actually tastes of something. Look! Its
even cloudy.
Every Mendoza wine tour guide is familiar with this
request. After a day touring wineries, sampling the It seems dissatisfaction with mass produced, industrial
finest Malbecs, even the hardiest wine lovers crave beer is universal. Only a teetotaller, or indeed a Russian
something different. The exhausted palate demands a pee drinking astronaut for that matter, would have missed
refreshing, cold beer to finish the day nicely. All those the global shift towards small, independent brewers. The
tannins coating the inner jowls like old wallpaper and craft beer boom has arrived in Mendoza. First it was
those purple painted teeth need a thorough rinsing quirky little labels made by home brewers from such
with a decidedly un-tannic lager or ale. Observe any diverse places as Palmira in the desert and El Salto in the
winemaker you know they all love beer. mountains.

Five years ago the quality of beer in Mendoza was poor. Then the tap rooms appeared Antares, Hangar 52 and
Walk into any bottle store or sidewalk bar and the choice Jerome for example. The locals had a whole new set of
was bewildering Quilmes, Andes, Brahma, Warsteiner, vocabulary to miss-pronounce ipa, weisse, stout and
Schneider, Heineken, Stella Artois, Budweiser and red ale. Now Mendoza boasts some 165 micro-breweries.
Carlsberg. But such huge choice is deceptive. They all There is 200% growth year on year and market share
taste pretty much the same bland and insipid; a gut is 2.7% of what is a 17 billion litre beer industry. Such
corroding pee water. In fact one could argue the case phenomenal growth still has some way to go. In the
that they all come from the same tank, not just because USA the booming craft beer market is currently 12% of
of their uniform mediocrity but also the fact that the the market and is projected to reach 20% in the next five
majority are owned by the same company AB InBev. years.
Back then, one sadly just had to get on with it. As awful as
the beer was, it slaked your thirst like a chilled, Russian Like giants waking up from a drunken slumber, the multi-
astronauts piss might in an outer space emergency. And nationals have realised they are losing out. Action is required
most importantly it still got you drunk. before their shareholders start voting with their feet. Rather
than actually try and improve the quality of their existing
And then things began to change. An unusual bottle of products, the corporate solution is to move in with money
Mendoza brewed beer would pop up at a party and cause and hoover up the more successful independents. This is
a mini-sensation. especially attractive as craft beer is up to double the price of
the Duff stuff from the corner store.

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The corporate fight back is well under way in the USA

Local Craft Beers


and Europe. AB InBev. bought the Camden Town
Brewery for 80 million dollars, prompting howls of
protests from the real beer enthusiast and the the actual
banning of Camden beer from some independent tap
rooms. In business Big brother take overs of small but
plucky outfits is a well established ploy by the multi- Pirca Lager -
nationals. Think LOreals buy out of Bodyshop and
Fresh and round with complex
Unilevers move on Ben & Jerry Ice cream. Expect much
the same in the craft beer industry. Quilmes has already
aromas. Your glass empties
rolled out its own artesanal brand Patagonia, a definite quickly. Fresca.
improvement on the original stuff. Kuntsman is another
multi-national owned label with craft beer aspirations. La sombra del Futre Kolsh de
montaa. Light and refreshing.
Beware the subterfuge however. Strictly speaking a One for a bonfire beside the river.
craft beer is a beverage produced traditionally by an
independent entity with no outside ownership and a Jagger Irish Red Ale. Sweet and
small production output. The marketing managers paint easy to drink with taste of caramel.
a corporate take-over of a small label as just a friendly Goes down too easy. Dangerous.
boost in the arm and the small producer will continue
in the same vein with no head office interference. In
the long term this is pure hogwash and the reason why
La Palmira C ream Stout- ahumada.
many craft beer enthusiasts are up in arms. Soft, creamy, smokey bitter. Goes
well with friends.
Meanwhile, the craft beer locomotive rolls on here
in Mendoza. The tap rooms of Aristides are proving Frangus oat meal stout. Intense
wildly popular, especially amongst wine tourists with flavour. Lots of bite. A hit with a
flagging palates. They are foot soldiers in the Great Beer dish of cured ham.
Revolution.

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Where to Buy Your Bottle

Hopfen Beer Market


A bottle store specialising in Mendocino
craft beer. Thursday night tastings with
brewers. Labels include Del Barrio,
Damero, Birra, Menduka, Aldea Gala, Artis
Home Brewers, Mlz, Pirca, Old Krum y
Paradise, amongst others.

Montevideo 794, Mendoza City

El Botelln
Locaated in the 5th Section towartds the
park and on Sarmiento 635 this bar has
at least 14 varieties - Nuevo Origen, La
Palmira, Fulana, Maleva y Portal, amongst
others. You can fill your own bottle and
they have a gluten free option

Paso de los Andes 756 / Sarmiento 635,


Mendoza City

Justo Al Paso
A bar and bottle store on Juan B Justo
with beers from such diverse place as San
Luis and Bariloche, many of them award
winning brews.
Happy Hour from 7 to 10pm

Juan B. Justo 513, Mendoza City

Casa Vigil Palmares


One of Mendozas most famous winemakers
Alejandro Vigil, is also a brewer. You can
buy Chachingo Craft Beer at his wine store
Casa Vigil Palmares in Palmares Mall.

Palmares Open Mall, Godoy Cruz


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BARS
INSIDE MENDOZA CITY

The list below has some great bars but if youre looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue,
the nightlife strip of Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by
the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide
you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs dont even get started
until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

LA TABERNA DE MOE
This all-day, all-night drinking institution is popular with a
young, student crowd and is a refreshing antidote to the cool
posers on Aristides street. Located downtown, just off San Martin
Avenue, it is basically a hole-in-the-wall beer den disguised as a
kiosk. And like all the kiosks, it has lots of Duff Beer.
Catamarca 22. Tel 425 5317

ANTARES BAR
Aristides street would not be very complete without its own
micro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer
in this respect with bars located across the country since
before it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long
bar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such as
Scottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs them
in at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.
Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEP
Just off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-
style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food
like nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken
wings. While especially popular during sports matches, The
Black Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everyday
from 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!
Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB


One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and
high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-
owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat
and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor
in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On
the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled
beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub
grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-
video montages or football games. Monday night is
International night and for their packed events DJs rock
the house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.
HANGAR 52
www.believeirishpub.com.ar
This warehouse bar has a rough and ready bohemian vibe
with bare walls and high, corrugated roofing. There is nothing
rough and ready about its beers however as they offer smooth,
well honed IPA, lagers and stouts. There are over 50 variieties
to choose from and service is rapid as they operate a self service
ticket system that puts an end to long waits - a drinkers curse in
Mendoza. The food is standard fare but with big convivial tables,
resident DJs and early evening opening hours it has quickly
become one of the most popular and lively bars on the strip.
Aristides 168.

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BIKE TOURS
In Maip
The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171,
172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)
where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious
for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a
puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu
is urban and not pretty.

RECOMMENDED WINERIES
Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae, Alandes and certainly
Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent El
Enemigo.

USEFUL INFORMATION
AIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine
and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage
in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be
alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables.
Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs
you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to
buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so
bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems
getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables
Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric
hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right: (261) 156416 047 - Clark 298 corner. Olascoaga.
CHANGING DOLLARS - Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin
1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you
are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is
generally 30 centavos less.

EVERYTHING YOU NEEDED


TO KNOW ABOUT TIPPING BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK
Its a cultural minefield and a frequent topic amongst tourists and locals. Here we try to unravel the
thorny subject of tipping by answering the most frequent questions.
- Should I tip? Yes. Mendocinos are too nice to push the point but those who work in hospitality,
especially waiters, are very much dependent on gratuities.
- Who should I tip? Most definitely your lunch or dinner waiter and to a lesser extent your driver
and wine tour guide if you are happy with the service.
- What should I tip? 10% is the norm for meals or if in doubt 100 pesos is reasonable.
- Is the winery lunch tip not included with the wine tour package? No.

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DINING OUT Recommended

healthy breakfasts and antioxidants

MENDOZA juices, El Mercadito stays open


throughout the siesta with its light
menu of sandwiches, big salads
CITY and some Argentine classic meals.
Aristides Villanueva 521.
Tel - 4638847. Avg. meal price: $190.
Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961. Tel
- 4962267.

La Patrona Organo
Cozy Mendocino restaurant with a Thin-crusted gourmet style pizzas and Los Toneles
casual, rustic charm attracts with sandwiches are the specialties crafted
traditional Argentine food and by celebrity gourmet couple Vanina
friendly and warm atmosphere. Chimeno and Francis Mallman. Pizza
Hearty empanadas and sizzling asado lovers can customize their own with Los Toneles
go with warm, open sandwiches. We high quality ingredients and watch
recommend the artichoke hearts how theyre made in the clay oven. We Located 15 minutes walk beyond the
and goat cheese; roasted vegetables recommend the lomo (steak) sandwich city center, this handsome historical
with white wine and honey; or the with garlic aoli (mayonnaise) and the winery offers Old World elegance
more traditional pick of rich glands dulce de leche pancakes. This new and atmosphere. The expansive
cooked in lemon. 9 de Julio 656. Tel restaurant is located in an elegant restaurant serves traditional dishes
- 4291057. Mon. to Sat.:12.30pm- building with inside or outside dining. with a gourmet twist and its the
3.30pm and 8.30pm-close. Avg. Meal h t t p : //re s t a u ra n t e o re g a n o . c o m perfect lunch or dinner spot for those
cost: $220. Rivadavia 789, Mendoza 5500, Argentina who have just arrived and want
info@restauranteoregano.com some genuine Mendocino ambience .
Josefina Lateral Norte Acceso Este 1360. Tel -
431 0403. Open Tuesday to Saturday
Trendy and cosmopolitan, Josefina lunch and dinner.
Rest is an island of elegance on
hectic Aristides Street. The building
is a playful mix of the urbane and Grill Q
the natural. The warmth of vintage
style drawings adorning the walls
are illuminated through large,
handsome street windows. The
food is eclectic and seasonal. www.
josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides
Villanueva 165, Mendoza 5500, Torito
Argentina Tel. 261 4233531
Torito is alluring the crowds to Juan
B Justo Street, the new IT place in
El Mercadito Mendoza for a night out. Classic
Argentinean comfort food is cooked
The perfect spot for some lunch time on a huge grill with very traditional
sunshine or al fresco dining. Run by options such as burgers, lomos (steak
three friends, El Mercadito has a cool sandwiches) and cuts of beef. Fresh
vibe and relaxed music making it a and excellent quality ingredients are
favorite. Opening in the morning for used and the menu includes vegan
and gluten free options. Football
fans are welcome to big games and
their outside courtyard is perfect Grill Q
Josefina for balmy summer nights. www.
facebook.com/toritotime Juan B. Chic parrilla style restaurant (part
Justo 234, Mendoza 5500, Argentina of the Park Hyatt hotel) with open
Tel. 0261 423-3394 kitchen. Famous for grilled meats
and gigantic empanadas, and serves
Brod hearty Argentine classics such as
locro a stew that hails back to
Charming bakery coffee shop with the early independence days. The
expansive courtyard set in old Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,
colonial townhouse one block from offers a more gourmet evening menu
Plaza Independencia. Excellent for and the most exuberant lunch menu
light lunches and battery charging in town. Chile 1124. Tel - 4411225.
coffee stops. Great wine selection Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. Bistro
next door at Winery wine store M - Executive Menu $280.
can be purchased and sampled in
courtyard. Chile 894. Tel:4252993.

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Recommended
DINING OUT
Ruca Malen

OUTSIDE Ruca Malen winery is synonymous


with gourmet food & wine pairings

THE CITY in Mendoza and was a pioneer in


this area. Having lunch in Ruca
Malen is also a visual experience,
from the food served in creative
plates designed especially for the
occasion by local craftsmen to the
breathtaking view one gets of the
Finca Agostino Andes and the vineyard. It also offers
great vegetarian and gluten-free
Elegance, history and the perfect options. Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo,
marriage of food and wine is what Lujn de Cuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261
youll experience by dining at 553 7164. Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236. AlPasin
the restaurant of Finca Agostino mendoza@bodegarucamalen.com
winery. The overall vibe is polished
and handsome. The food is equally
majestic 5 courses of well thought,
imaginative dishes that are paired Los Negritos Prmula Cantina Ferroviaria
exquisitely with all the winery wines
often explained and described Family-owned restaurant in the A small, genuine restaurant that is a
by the chef Sergio Guardia. The rustic splendor of Las Vegas in homage to Mendozas railway heritage.
menu is seasonal with much of the Poterillos, 80 km from Mendoza. This Part of the winery Estrellas de los Andes,
ingredients freshly picked from the is without doubt the best restaurant this cantina is the Argentinean version
propertys organic vegetable garden in the mountains, specializing in of a 50s diner. The atmosphere is relaxed
and orchard. Carril Barrancas 10590, traditional family recipes that add and immediately transports you back to
Maip. Tel - 5249358. Avg. meal a new twist to Andean fare such as the good old days. You can even have
price: $650 pesos. humitas, tomatican and mondongo. your lunch in an old restored wagon. The
The restaurant itself is simple and setting is not pretentious and nor is the
modern with no frills, but the food of food. The menu consists of three courses
course. Open weekends and public with 3 to 4 options in every course. The
holidays 12 midday to 4pm. Avg options change every week according to
$250 AR. Los Olmos ST. La Vegas, the season and the availability of local
Potrerillos. Te. (0261) 155697431. products, made on a huge outdoor grill
and mud oven.
Olavarria 225, Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo.
Tel 261 2213899 from Tuesday to Sunday
and holidays from 11am to 18 pm
La Azul
A pioneer in the Uco Valley region,
this boutique winery now offers
hearty lunches in a rustic setting with
stunning views of the mountains.
Family-owned , the owners are often
your hosts and they take pride in
serving giant portions of excellent
beef and pork dishes, accompanied
by the winerys excellent, high
Finca Agostino altitude wines. Popular, authentic
and unforgettable. Open Tuesday to
Sunday. Lunches only. Tupungato.
Tel - (02622) 423 593. La Azul
Lunch in a Winery
Whatever you do in Mendoza, make
sure to have lunch in a winery. There Restaurant Lares de Chacras Terruo-Club Tapiz
is nothing quite like sitting back to
a long line of wine glasses holding One of Mendozas most charming Tucked away among the sprawling
delicious Chardonnay, Torrontes, boutique wine hotels has now opened Maip vineyards lies Club Tapiz
Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon its excellent restaurant to the general Resort and its lovely restaurant
(amongst others), accompanied by public. Located in the picturesque Terruo. This handsome eatery
the finest, gourmet food Argentina wine village of Chacras de Coria, boasts an elegant interior, excellent
has to offer. The icing on the cake a 20 minute drive from the city, service and a wine list that is sure
is that icing on the Andes in the Lares offers traditional local dishes to please even the most finicky of
background and the lush green vines in a rustic deluxe environment. wine snobs. Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maip.
of the vineyard. It is definitely the Every Wednesday they offer asado, Tel: 496 0131. www.tapiz.com Lunch,
most civilised way to get drunk on Argentine bbq. Larrea 1266, Chacras every day, 12pm 3pm. Dinner, Sun
the planet. de Coria, Tel. (0261) 491 1061 www. -Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until
laresdechacras.com/ 12am. Avg. meal cost: $450 pesos.

25
THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo Maip Valle de Uco

Los Toneles

City Center winery Los Toneles


CITY has a charming Old World feel
and excellent restaurant. It is a
five minute walk east of the bus
station.Direccin: Acceso Este
Lateral Norte 1360, 5519 Mendoza.
(0261) 431-0403. Open everyday.
www.bodegalostoneles.com Los Toneles
Clos de Chacras Cruzat

LUJN
Charming boutique operation with A boutique traditional sparkling wine
nice history. A five minute walk producer with gorgeous bubbles that
from Chacras plaza. Best Wine: Gran can be enjoyed from their terrace
Estirpe. (0261) 496 1285/155 792706.
Monte Libano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo.
www.closdechacras.com.ar
DE CUYO overlooking vines. (261) 5242290, Costa
Flores, s/n, Perdriel,
www.bodegacruzat.com

Terrazas de los Andes Melipal Alta Vista

The fine wine sister of Chandon Great Malbec and gourmet lunches Masterful mix of modern and
Argentina is a beautifully restored make Melipal one of the most traditional. Tasting includes
bodega with well-appointed tasting exclusive wineries to visit. (0261) distinctive Torrontes or single
room. Best Wine: Cheval de los 4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, vineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.
Andes. (0261) 488 0704/5. Thames Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal. lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujan
and Cochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn de com.ar de Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com
Cuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Mendel Matervini
Terrazas de los Andes
An old style winery ran by one of Two Malbec pioneers - Santiago
Argentinas most famous winemaker Achaval and Robert Cipresso,
dynasties the De La Motta family. break new, exciting ground with
(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, Mayor rich, mineral wines from unusual
Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www. terroirs. This tiny, boutique
mendel.com.ar operation only sells from the
winery. Cobos 2142. matervini.com.
Via Cobos Tel. 261 5616691.
Luigi Bosca
American winemaker Paul Hobbs Belasco de Baquedano
The Arizu dynasty are the royal was one of the first to recognise
family of Argentine wine and their the possibilities of Malbec and his Gleaming modern facility with
seat of operations is a handsome and Bramare label is possibly one of the fascinating aroma room and restaurant
elegant 110-year old winery. (0261) best examples of this varietal. (0261) with Andean view. (0261) 524 7864.
498 1974. San Martin 2044, Mayor 479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo. www.
Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo. www. www.vinacobos.com belascomalbec.co
luigibosca.com.ar

Catena Zapata Ciudad


Showcase winery designed like Lujn de Cuyo
a Mayan temple overlooking
vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Maip
Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
catenawines.com Valle de Uco
Belasco de Baquedano

Tapiz Nieto Senetiner

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high- Located in a beautiful old winery
end restaurant Terruo and an in Chacras, Senetiner was founded
instructive wine tour including in 1888 and makes a great range of
barrel and bottle tasting. (0261) 490 wines and sparkling wines. (261) 496
0202. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. 9099, Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba,
Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz. Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.
com com.ar

26
THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Benegas Lynch Carmelo Patti Chandon

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely Mendozas most famous garagista. The original foreign investor, French-
old bodega with lots of character. Carmelo Patti himself is often there owned Chandon has been making
Best Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) to show you around (in Spanish). Best great sparkling wines in Mendoza
496 0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from the since the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.
www.bodegabenegas.com barrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.
2614, Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar
Caelum
Decero
Modern, medium size winery on Chandon
the main road to Chile just before Attractive, modern facility with
the mountains and has a nice spectacular views of the mountains
family feel to it. Best Wine: Fiano from the cozy tasting room. (0261) 524
(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060, 4748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,
Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Vistalba
Dominio del Plata
Tasting room where one entire wall Ruca Malen
Argentinas most famous female is a subterranean cross section of the
winemaker Susana Balbo is creating actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Excellent food, great guiding and
some rich and complex wines in the Fabulous restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. first-class wines. The pairings over
heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200. Roque Saenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. lunch make for an unforgettable
Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Lujn de www.carlospulentawines culinary experience. (0261)
Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar 5537164 / 4540974. R.N.7 Km
1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
bodegarucamalen.com
Renacer
Dominio del Plata
This Chilean-owned winery creates Estrella de los Andes
the label Punto Final. Small, modern
operation with tours that include Old World winery and canteen style
a hands-on lesson in blending. Vistalba restaurant with a railway theme.
Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. Simple and authentic.
(0261) 524-4416 or 524-4417. www. Tel. 2612213899 / 2614649190
bodegarenacer.com.ar Budeguer info@bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Lagarde Modern-style Budeguer winery


offers you the chance to blend
Owner of the oldest white wine in wine and art in a warm and relaxed
South America. Try the hand-crafted atmosphere. Its superb terrace is
sparkling wine made from 100 open until 8pm and it is the perfect
year old vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. spot to sip a glass of Malbec enjoying
27. (261) 6815961 San Martin 1745, the sunset. Reservations required
Mayor Drummond. Lujn de Cuyo. at turismo@budeguer.com or (0261)
www.lagarde.com.ar 6830749- www.budeguer.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Casarena Cuyo. Mendoza. Kaiken

A beautiful mix of old and new, Dante Robino


this winery mixes tradition and Achaval Ferrer
modernity in an old style winery Founded in 1920, an atmospheric old-
with a super modern restaurant with Modern boutique close to Mendoza style winery with a modernist, light-
splendid views of the vineyards and riverbed. Big concentrated wines. filled tasting room with excellent
mountains. Brandsen 505, Perdriel. (0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel, view of mountains and vines.
www.casarenawines.com (261) Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer. (0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. Callejn
6967848. com Maldonado 240, Perdriel. www.
bodegadanterobino.com
Kaiken
Familia Cassone
This rustic 80 year-old winery houses
a new venture by the prestigious A charming, family owned winery
Chilean winery Montes. Big and in a beautiful setting. Try the
powerful wines, destined for fame. jasmine tinted ros amidst the
(0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Mobile pastoral splendour of the owners
(0261-153 530 789) /Mobile (0261-155 expansive garden. Anchorena y
Casarena 509 453) Terrada. (261) 424 6301. www.
familiacassone.com.ar

27
THE WINERY GUIDE
Lujn de Cuyo Maip Valle de Uco

Septima Alpamanta Catena Zapata


A beautifully designed winery with Exemplary biodynamic vineyard set Showcase winery designed like
clear views of the mountains and a in the rustic splendor of Ugarteche. a Mayan temple overlooking
large terrace used for sunset wine Ideal for families and nature lovers. vineyards and the Andes Mountains.
events after 6.30pm on Thursdays. Calle Cobos s/n.(0261) 153468398. Rich, complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.
(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan www.alpamanta.com Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.
de Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com catenawines.com

Pulenta Estate Norton

Old-style cellars contrast with a high-


MAIPU
Cool minimalist design and rich
complex wines make this a winery tech production line. Tank and barrel
with finesse and style. Best Wine: tastings,and jug fillings on Thursdays
Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426. are popular with the locals. (0261)
Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo. 490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.
www.pulentaestate.com Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Trez Wines
AMP Cava
Three friends making award Rutini / La Rural
winnning wine in a small, circular Premium wines made from different
winery.Tel.4877085y Well-stocked museum with terroirs but all by renowned winemaker
+54 9 2616854019. invaluable antiques like cowhide Karim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastings
turismo@trezwines.com wine presses and buckets. Giant and a close proximity to the city make
oak tanks stand in large, cavernous it a recommended visit. Gmez Adriano
halls. (0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. 3602. Coquimbito. Maip -
Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, (261) 4813201/4668048
Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Don Manuel Villafae 25


Lopez Tempus Alba 4

Modern winery in the wide open Popular, old-style winery with two Charming family run winery with
vineyards of southern Maip. museums on the wine. Restaurant modern facilities and terrace with a
Intense, complex wines. Art offers gourmet cuisine with a view. Carril Perito Moreno 570. tel.
exhibition all year long. Ruta 60 panoramic view. (0261) 497 6554. 4813501. www.tempusalba.com.
s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maip. (0261) Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.
5083067. www.dmvwines.com www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.
Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial
Carinae
Finca Agostino
Trapiche Small, charming, French-owned
Elegant and picturesque winery winery offering personal tours and
with ancient vines and walled Argentinas biggest winery is a well-honed wines. Surrounded by
orchard. Offer superb lunches and mix of old and new, traditional and vineyards and olive trees. (0261) 499
cookery classes. Carril Barrancas industrial, and has the old train 0470. Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de
10590, Maipu. ( 261) 5249358. www. tracks leading up to it. (0261) 520 Piedra, Maip .
ncaagostino.com 7666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip. www.carinaevinos.com
www.trapiche.com.ar

El Enemigo

One of Argentinas most talented


winemakers Alejandro Vigil
opens the door to this colorful and
unconventional boutique operation.
Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered. Carinae
FincaAgostino
Agostino Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. (0261) Rutini Museum
Finca 697 4213
Familia Cecchin
Familia Zuccardi A family winery using organic and
biodynamic principles where you
A professional, far-sighted operation. can see the entire process from the
Attractive restaurant amidst the beautiful green vineyards to the
vines, famous for its asado-style minimal intervention winery. (0261)
lunches and generous wine pourings. 497 6707, Ruta 60 , 500mts before
(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5, Casa El Enemigo reaching Ozamis Sur roundabout
Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

28
THE WINERY GUIDE
Driving time from Mendoza City Restaurant Lodging Art Gallery

Familia Di Tommasso Trivento


Trivento
Officially the second oldest winery in Located in the bucolic splendour of
Mendoza and still run by Argentine southern Maipu, Trivento is owned
hands. Their charming and rustic by the Chilean Concha y Toro. This
restaurant looks onto the vineyard, modern winery has a beautiful deck set
just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829. amidst the vineyards and offers bicycle
Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www. excursions within the property. Ruta 60
familiaditommaso.com y Canal Pescara, 5517 Maip, Mendoza.
(0261) 413 7196. www.trivento.com

Finca Sophenia
The Vines of Mendoza

A cooperative of international wine


lovers who have all bought a vineyard
VALLE Modern, high tech winery in
stunning location. High quality
wines overseen by Matias Michellini.
plot each in Uco Valley to make their
own wine with experts. Add to this DE UCO www.sophenia.com.ar (02622) 154-
45622
a fabulous 5-star hotel and Francis
Mallman restaurant and Uco Valley Domaine Bousquet
will never be the same again. Ruta 94,
Tunuyan. (0261) 461 3900 Atamisque Another French transplant to the
Andean foothills of Valle de Uco,
Salentein This Uco winery has some great this sizeable operation produces
white wines, a unique stony roof and high altitude Chardonnay, Merlot
Designed like a temple to wine, this they breed their own trout which is and Malbec. Ruta 89. Tupungato.
ultra-concept winery includes a served in the charming restaurant. www.domainebousquet.com (0261)
modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel (0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San 5274048
set high in the Andean valley. (02622) Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.
429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. www. com
killkasalentein.com Corazon del Sol
La Azul
A stark, modern winery with big,
Simple, small production winery concentrated reds. Californian
with not so simple Malbecs, a small owned and inspired. Tunuyan. Tel.
traditional restaurant and now a 0261 659 0043.www.corazondelsol.
beautiful lodge. (02622) 423 593.R.P com.
89 s/n. Agua Amarga, Tupungato.
www.bodegalaazul.com
Andeluna
Salentein
The old-world style tasting room
La Azul looks upon dramatic views of
Diamandes vineyards against mountains.
Probably the best gourmet lunch
Modern, imposing winery with in the winery. (02622) 423 226
magnificent wines, part of Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,
prestigious French group Clos de los Tupungato. www. andeluna.com
Siete overkooked by Michel Rolland.
Calle Silva S/N. Vistaflores. (0261)
4760695.
O. Fournier
Bodega Masi
Most architecturally innovative
Fascinating Italian job in the heart of winery with rich, concentrated
Tupungato with commanding views wines. Excellent lunches in the
and commanding wines, especially modernist visitor center. (02622) 451 Andeluna
the Amarone inspired varietals and 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San
unusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. Carlos. www.ofournier.com
www.masitupungato.com Piedra Infinita
Gimenez Riili Innovative, elegant and modern,
Piedra Infinita is the imposing,
A brand new family run affair, part dramatic contribution of Familia
of the exciting Vines of Mendoza Zuccardi in Uco Valley.. Open
project. This is a modern winery in from Wednesday to Sunday. www.
a stunning setting. (0261) 156317105/ zuccardiwines.com.
0261 / 153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),
Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com
R.P.N.15 Km 31,5 Agrelo, Lujn de
Cuyo. Mendoza.

29
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MAP OF
WINE TOUR
MAIP

33
MAP OF
SAN MARTIN
PARK

Mendoza City Tour Route

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