Building the

Wood Duck Kayaks

-
I \
Thanks for your order. This manual will help you build your boat from a CLC kit. Building your
Wood Duck kayak will be much easier if you read through the manual two or three times before
starting construction. If you encounter any technical questions while building your boat please feel
free to call us: 9am to 5pm (eastem time) Monday through Friday, or email info@clcboats.com any
time.
Please remember that when buying a boat kit you are buying the right to build one boat. You must
pay a royalty fee and get written permission to copy the kit parts. CLC and the boat's designer retain
all rights, including copyright, to the design.
This manual was written and edited by Eric Schade, John C. Harris, David Fawley, and Matt
Cordrey. The photographs were collated from three Wood Ducks and three Shearwaters (a similar
design) built by Eric Schade and by CLC.
No part of this work may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means, graphic, electronic or
mechanical without the written permission of Chesapeake Light Craft, LLC.

Chesapeake Light Craft: www.clcboats.com or email: info@clcboats.com

2010 Chesapeake Light Craft, LLC.

1805 George Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21401
(410) 267-013 7
 Wood Duck 14 Kit Parts

~
Bottom Bow
~~ Bottom Stern
~
\ Side Bow
~ ~ Side Stem
l
Sheer Panel
Sheer Panel

Deck

D
L'----------- - - ------------
S-id_e_B_o__ ~~ ~~------~S=id:e~S:t:e~m------------------------~\
w __________

-------==
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e
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~
Bulkhead : ;
Transom

---====~

DO
FOAM SEAT PARTS

Hatch Components

BACKBAND

FIBERGLASS PACKAGES
---..
I -Mil

FOOTBRACES

HARDWARE KIT

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 Wood Duck 14
L_OA 13'-8 3/4'' (4.17m) boom 30 (77cm)
Strtch and glue plywood
Designed by Eric Scha<le
March 19, 2009
scale 1- 1/2" 1'-0" (1 :8)

.o!tiOil lf'.lpl
300.t di:spb cnMotlt.

12 11 12 11 10 7
- -- -- - - - -13'-8 i"[4.18m]
 Wood Duck 12 Kit

Transom\/

Forward Deck Form Rear Deck Form

~ Stern Form
Bow Hull Form
'c:7
Forward Hull Form

\~--~~~~~~Bo~w~S~I~de~Pa_n_e_l----------------~~ ~L-____s_t_em__S_Id_e_P_an_e_l________~/
(Bow !Me lrlhe L.ongo$1 of the T..o)

Stern Bottom Panel

""---------"'
C Bow Bottom Panel ~~------S-te_rn_Bo_t_to_m_Pa_n_e_l ~___

~l_______________e_ow__s_ld_e_P_an_e_l__________________~ ~~-------S-te_m_S_Id_e_P_a_n_et__________~~

~ o:w
__s_h_ee_r_P_a_n_el___________ ~
-------=== :a

C) Hatch Stiffener
DO
FOAM SEAT PARTS

O""hS-
~HotohSIII
BACKBAND

C ) HatchRim

...........

, 1111111

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FOOTBRACES

FIBERGLASS PACKAGES
HARDWARE KIT

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\!ocd Jvcl< 12
LOll l 2 \3.;(,,..,) b<'nn 30 :77c.V
Stitc., !lnd glu~ plyooud
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 Wood Duck 10 Kit

Stern Sheer Panel

Bow Deck Form Stern Deck Form
Forward Deck Form

v~
Rear Deck Form

""7
v
Transom

~
Bow Hull Form
Stern Form

Forward Hull Form

aa Stern Side Panel

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St~~
Ste~
---------
----------------------~a a Stern Side Panel

DO
Hatch Cover

Hatch Stiffener

FOAM SEAT PARTS

Hatch Spacer

Hatch Sill

BACKBAND

Hatch Rim

...,__...........,
,

FOOTBRACES
FIBERGLASS PACKAGES
HARDWARE KIT

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 Wood Duckling Kit

Bow Sheer Panel

Stern Sheer Panel

\L__B_o_w_S_i_d_e_P_a_n_el_ __.~ \ Middle Side Panel ~ '% Stern Side Panel J

V Transom
L BowBott~ Center Bottom Panel

------------------
~
~. . /__B_o_w_S_id_e_P_a_n_e_l_ ___JZ ff Middle Side Panel JZ Stern Side Panel )

Bow Deck Form Forward Deck Form Rear Deck Form Stern Deck Form

v
Bow Hull Form
~
'CJ
Forward Hull Form
~
Rear Bulkhead
""7
Stern Form

~
Hatch Rim Hatch Stiffener

0 C)
OQ
Cockpit Coaming Spacers

~ Hatch Spacer Hatch Sill

{[]JY\18
FIBERGLASS PACKAGES DO FOAM SEAT PARTS
BACKBAND

HARDWARE KIT
11
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 \Vorkshop

To build the Wood Duck, you '11 need a workspace which is about 8 feet by 15 feet, leaving at least
about 3 feet around the kayak.

Good light is helpful. Nice, large windows are ideal during daylight hours but few of us are so
fortunate in our shops. Two fluorescent lights hanging above the work area are usually enough.
You '11 need at least four 100-watt incandescent lights to be comfmtable.

It should be dry and heated (if you plan to work in the winter). We don't recommend using kerosene
or gas-burning external exhaust because they produce water vapor and other byproducts which can
interfere with the epoxy curing process. You should plan to work with epoxy only if the room is
above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit or 15 degrees Celsius.

You'll need 2 sawhorses to support the boat as you work on it. Also make some cradles to cushion
the boat and hold it securely. Set up the sawhorses so that they are about hip height to ensure a
comfortable boat height for the work ahead.

You'll also need a 2 ' by 10' flat work surface to lay out and work on the plywood panels. You can
use the floor, but a bench is more comfortable.

You can put some sheets of plywood on the floor of my basement shop to minimize epoxy droplets
on the concrete. If you're just building one or two boats this may be overkill. .. just use a plastic
truck tarp to catch the drippings. You may want to tape the edges down to keep the tarp in place.

Tools

Basic tools required include tools to mark and cut the plywood and trim its edges, tools for spreading
epoxy and tools for smoothing the boat.

A low angle block plane is needed to trim and bevel the panels. Several manufacturers produce good
products. I use one made in England by Stanley, which has fine adjustment for the blade depth and
side to side angle as well as an adjustment for the throat opening. It's very important to keep your
plane blades sharp. Invest in a good quality sharpening stone and sharpening jig.

A saber saw, also called a jig-saw is useful for cutting out the hatches. For cutting the plywood, get a
fine toothed blade intended for thin wood and fine cuts. My saw has an oscillating blade which helps
speed the cut and reduces blade wear.

There are some small hand saws which will also serve you well. Make sure you get one with fine
teeth and a narrow blade for cutting curves. CLC sells a saw called the "Bonsai Saw" which will
work well for this job.

A Japanese pull saw, also available from CLC, are u seful for some odd jobs on the kayak.

Wood carving tools such as a saw rasp, chisel and gouge may be used for incidentals like smoothing
the inside of the cockpit rim.

A hand drill and an assortment of drill bits are used in several steps during the building process. I
use a regular electric drill with a 3/8" chuck. A cordless, battery powered drill is handy because you
can use it anY'vhere without worrying about the cord.
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You can also use an old-fashioned cordless drill ... you know, the thing with a crank on the side ...
You'll also need a standard drill index with drill bits ranging from 1/16" to 1/4".

A large 3/8" to 1/2" diameter drill bit is needed to drill the holes for the lifting toggles at the ends of
the boat. Use a brad-point bit if you have one. A spade-type wood drill, or a metal cutting drill will
work too.

You '11 need a pair of pliers and a wire cutter while assembling the plywood panels with copper wire.

Several spring clamps or small "C"-clamps are also needed. I have at least 12 on hand for each boat
I build.

I do a lot of my sanding by hand using sheet sandpaper ranging in grit from 50 to 120. Power
sanders will speed the job along. Random orbital sanders or palm sanders are best suited to this type
of work but a belt sander can be used with great care to speed some of the sanding. If you need to
purchase a sander, go for a good quality random orbital palm sander.

When vamishing and painting, I use tack cloths to wipe the dust off the boat. Don't use a tack cloth
while epoxying. I apply the varnish with a disposable foan1 brush and occasionally a foam roller.

I save plastic yogurt and cream cheese containers to mix epoxy in. The mixing cups supplied with
the kit should be enough but any clean, wax free container will work. Sandwich-size plastic serving
savers work well as mini roller trays for holding paint or varnish, as covering the paint saves it for
the next coat..

Materials.

Plywood serves as the basis for making stitch and glue kayaks and is therefore critical.

Okoume (pronounced "o-KOO-mee'') is vety-bigh quality plywood made from an African

hardwood, Aucoumea Klaineana, which looks much like Mahogany. These trees can grow to heights
ranging from 100 feet to nearly 200. The trunk of the tree can be clear of knots for 70 feet and be 3
to 8 feet in diameter. They are relatively common in their home range and are extensively planted.
On your Wood Duck, an optional deck is made from Sapele (Entandrophragma cylindricum) which
is also grown in central Africa. Sapele (pronounced "sub-PEE-lee") is a harder and darker colored
wood than Okoume and was selected to extra give beauty and contrast to your boat.

Marine plywood is available in several grades. The best for our purposes is BS 1088 (British
standard) marine. The outer layers of the plywood have no holes, cracks, loose knots or any other
of the flaws we usually associate with plywood. In fact, none of these flaws are visible even on the
interior layer! The natural perfection of this wood, combined with a flawless gluing job, give the
final result incredible strength and durability.
The pa11s for this kit have been machine-cut directly from our computer files.

The patts for this kit probably have some printing and labels on it which can be removed by sanding.

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 Fiberglass comes in a variety of forms. For building your kayak, two basic types are used: cloth
and woven tape. Cloth is sold on rolls or in cut lengths. It is classified by weight per-square-yard in
ounces. This kit uses 4 oz. cloth. The woven tape comes in a variety of widths and weights. We use
tape in the 9oz range about three inches wide. Tape is also sold in rolls or as cut lengths.

Another product we use is wood flour. This is simply a by-product of sanding. It will be used to
thicken epoxy to make gap-filling glues and fillers.

Copper wire is used to "stitch" the panels together. \Vhile wire made from other metals will work,
copper has a reasonably good " feel," which is to say, it is soft enough to twist by hand without undo
pain, yet is strong enough to do the job. It's also soft enough to not damage your plane if you hit a
wire while working on the hull. As a bonus, it's resistant to corrosion caused by salt water.

Epoxy

Another key ingredient in the construction of a kayak is epoxy. Epoxy is a two part petro-chemical
which, when mixed, cures or hardens by means of a chemical reaction. The reaction typically is
accelerated by higher temperatures.

When working with epoxy, it is necessary that you wear gloves to prevent exposing your skin
directly to the resin. Rarely, some people develop an allergic reaction to epoxy which can force
them to abandon its use. This only happens after prolonged skin contact---easy to avoid!

It is not necessary to wear a respirator when working with epoxy because the epoxy we supply has
only trace amounts of volatile components which evaporate while cming. If you notice any breathing
discomfort, a respirator will fix it. When sanding wood or epoxied fiberglass, always wear a dust
mask or respirator to prevent getting any sanding dust into your nose and lungs.

Wear goggles or safety glasses while working to keep epoxy and dust out of your eyes.

Always use vinyl, nitrile or latex gloves when working with epoxy to keep it away form your skin.
Wearing long sleeves and pants will keep epoxy off your arms and legs. I use vinyl gloves ... they
are quite inexpensive and work well.

Use only waterless hand cleaner to clean un-cured epoxy off your hands and skin. Vinegar and
chemical solvents break down the chemicals in the epoxy and aid them in penetrating your skin.

You'll want to dress in old clothes while working on your boat. Clothing protects you from spilled
epoxy and sanding dust. Old jeans and a long sleeve shirt and old sneakers are ideal. Epoxy is
nearly impossible to get out of clothing unless caught right away and cleaned with vinegar.

When using epoxy it is important to mix the resin and hardener accurately and completely. The ratio
for this epoxy is 2 parts of resin to 1 part hardener. This means if your pumps are working correctly,
that 1 pump of resin will mix properly with 1 pump ofhardener.
This is important! Your kit includes metering pun1ps for accurately measuring epoxy. One is for
the resin the other for the hardener. Don't mix them up. Follow the instructions with the pumps
for setting up the hardener pump. You might have to take aprut one pump and install a plastic part
around the pump plunger to make the hardener pump meter the correct amount.

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Use one squirt of resin followed by one squirt of hardener, repeated until you have enough for the
job. Once you 've measured out the right amount of epoxy, mix it thoroughly. Mix it vigorously for
at least three minutes (longer than you think) . Scrape the edges and bottom of the container to make
sure there are no unmixed portions. Failure to use the correct ratios or to mix thoroughly will make a
real rness1

Make sure that your pmnps work well, if they have air bubbles which pop or burp as you pump, you
won't get the correct measure. When in doubt, pump the resin and hardener into measuring cups,
and add extra if necessary. Then mix the epoxy in a separate cup. Reuse measuring cups, one for
resin only, one for hardener.

Don't mix more epoxy than you need or can use in a short time. Large amom1ts of epoxy tend to
cure extra fast in the container. Epoxy generates heat as it cures, the more epoxy, the more heat.
Epoxy cures faster when it is hot. A batch can go from being O.K. to use, to hot and hard in one
or two minutes. It will sometimes foam and smoke if the reaction is vigorous enough. The rule of
thumb is, if the epoxy in your pot starts to get warm, stop using it and set it aside.

Make sure your work area is between about 60 and 90 degrees when you work with epoxy. The
ideal temperature is about 70 degrees (20 degrees Celsius). At low temperatures, the epoxy will take
longer and may not develop full strength, and at high temperatures, the epoxy will cure quite quickly,
reducing your working time, especially when the epoxy is in the mixing pot.

When applying epoxy use a brush to paint it onto the wood or fiberglass. The plastic squeegee will
help you spread the epoxy smoothly and evenly.

When using epoxy as a glue or filler, we ' ll mix wood flour to thicken it so it fills gaps and stays in
place. Mix epoxy before adding any wood flour.

We'll use two consistencies of thickened epoxy for our work. "Ketchup" is fairly runny but
thoroughly colored with wood flour. It takes about 1/4 cup of wood flour per cup of mixed epoxy.
"Peanut butter" is quite thick and doesn't sag or drip off the mixing stick. Peanut butter requires
about 1 to 1 1/2 cups ofwood flour per cup of mixed epoxy. Clear epoxy refers to mixed epoxy with
no wood flour added.

While the MAS TM epoxy supplied with this kit doesn't have
the problem, it's good to know about amine blush. While
curing, epoxy often develops an unwanted coating called
amine blush. This blush feels like a slightly oily or wet on
an otherwise hard surface of epoxy. Amine blush should be
cleaned off before adding more coats of epoxy, fiberglass or
varnish. It's water soluble so can be washed off with warm
water and a little soap. Be sure to rinse off the soap and to
dry the surface with an absorbent towel.

You can clean up uncured epoxy with vinegar. Vinegar dissolves the epoxy so it can easily be
washed off with warm water. Use it to clean your tools, hair or clothing. Don' t use it to clean your
hands or skin. Remember that this only works on uncured epoxy so clean up quickly. Don't wait
until tomorrow, and don't use acetone or other solvents.

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 Materials List for Wood Duck Plans Builders
2 sheets of 4mm okoume
1 sheet of 3mm Sapele (or substitute one sheet of 4mm okoume) (2 sheets for WD 14 I 0 for WD 8)

10 yards of 4-ounce 50-inch wide fiberglass fabric (12 yds for WD 14 I 6 yds for WD 8)
30 yards of3-inch fiberglass tape (33 yds for WD 14 I 25 yds for WD 8)
1.5 gallons of epoxy (resin & hardener combined) (2.25 gallons for WD 14)
1 gallon of wood flour
1 quart of silica powder ("Cell-O-Fill" or colloidal silica)
100' of 18-gauge copper wire
4 epoxy syringes
1 roll hatch gasket tape
20 feet of 1/4-inch bungie cord (for optional deck rigging)
36 inches of 1/4-inch nylon line (for optional deck rigging)
4 feet of l -inch flat nylon webbing (for optional deck rigging)
Kayak seat
Rapid Pulse backband w/ hardware
Keepers footbraces w/ hardware

8 #8-32 stainless flathead 1" machine screws (for hatches)

10 8-32 stainless flathead 3/4" machine screws (for optional deck rigging)
18 # 8-32 stainless flanged finish washers
18 #8-32 nylon locking nuts

All items available from Chesapeake Light Craft; cal1410 267 0137 or visit www.clcboats.com

Building the Wood Duck from Plans

Builders starting from scratch must assemble a "kit" of parts before proceeding with construction.
Builders starting from a CLC kit should skip ahead to page 23.

Plywood

The Wood Duck kits are cut from marine BS 1088-grade okoume plywood, 4mm in thickness, with
decks cut from 3mm sapele. You may substitute 4mm okoume for the 3mm sapele deck, but we
urge you not to substitute lesser grades of.plywood or differing thicknesses. Because they are not
built on molds, the Wood Ducks adopt their shape as the hull panels are wired together. The bending
properties of 4mm okoume marine plywood are as much a part of the design as the shapes of the
panels are. A lauan Wood Duck might not be merely of inferior strength and appearance; it might
not be the right shape, either.

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Suggested Plywood Layout: Suggested Plywood Layout: Wood Duck 10
Wood Duckling 8

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17
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 Suggested Plywood Layout - Wood Duck 12

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18
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Suggested Plywood Layout - Wood Duck 14

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 Full Size Patterns

full-sized paper patterns are at some risk of changing shape

due to humidity. Store the patterns in a cool. dry place until
you're ready to use them. Some error may be introduced
due to shrinkage or expansion, but we are convinced that
any errors will be minor within the context of the forgiving
stitch-and-glue process.

Transferring the shapes from the full-sized patterns to the

plywood is straightfonvard. We don 't recommend cutting
the parts out witl1 scissors, at least not the larger parts. The
narrow ribbons of paper are at greater risk of changing
shape in humidity once they are detached from the larger
sheet. Instead, transfer the shapes by poking through the
paper with a sharp awl or ice pick. (top right)

Lines that have long, straight runs can have a few "punch-
es" per foot. Areas requiring more detail can have lots of
"punches." Once you've finished tbe part, set the pattern
aside and coooect the dots with a pencil. Use a flexible
batten for the long lines, and a ruler for shorter lines. You
can achieve incredible precision with this metbod, more
so than tracing around a cut-out pattern. Tracings add the
width of the pencil line to the size of the parr and require
more trimming.

Included on the patterns are bulkhead and form locations.

Transfer tl1ese with the awl, but be careful not to cut on
U1ose lines!

Also on tl1e Wood Duck patterns are the locations for wire
holes. As long as you can keep all of these elements sorted
in your head, it's great to be able to drill those ahead of
time.

--- ----

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Cutting Out the Parts

We recommend a circular saw for long, shallow curves.

Slide a few sticks of wood lmderueath the plywood and set
the saw blade to just cur through material. The circular saw
is easier to "track'' ou your pencil lines and so the cuts will
be smoother. If you're liDSteady, cut a little outside the line
and trim to the line with a block plane. Use a saber saw
for small parts and sharp curves. We recommend using a
fine-toothed metal-cutting blade in the saber saw to avoid
splimering the plywood. (Peace Canoe shown)

Joining the Panels

There are a number of ways t.o join plywood panels in stitch-

and-glue boats. Whichever method you choose, the exact
site of the burt or scarf joints is not important. Let them fall
where they may.

The only way to cut "puzzle joints'' with the requisite

accuracy---as seen in the CLC kits---is with a computer
numerically controlled router.

The traditional and arguably superior method is to use "scarf

joints." wh.ich are carefully cut tapers that are glued together.
With a sharp block plane they are easy to make.

Using an 8: 1 scarf in 4mm plywood. you '11 cut about a

1-1 /2" long scarf. You 'II need to remember to ADD the
length of the scarf to one of the two parts you're joining with
a scarf or you'll end up with a boat that's 1-112" short.

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 Epoxy and clamp the scarfs. First. apply clear packing tape to the inside and outside of each of the sheets along the scarf
joint to minimize sanding after the epoxy cures.

Mix a batch of epoxy and thicken with silica to a mustard consistency. Brush a thick coat of epoxy on the face of each
scarf joint.

Place a piece of waxed paper or plastic over the joint so that you can stack your second scarf joint on top of the first. Ac-
cidently gluing these sheets of plywood togther would not be funny.

Sight down the sheets of plywood to make sure they are aligned. Dogs and children have a way of dislodging carefully
aligned plywood parts right after you've glued them. Assuming you are working on a concrete floor or other inpenetra-
ble surface which makes tacking down the sheets inpractical, make some reference marks on the Jloor so that when glue
is applied you can be sure the panels haven't shifted.

Your long piece of scrap wood will be used for a clamping pad. Place the clamping pad on the scarfjoint and set two
buckets of sand (or 10-15 lbs of weight) along its length. Make sure you' ve got a piece of plastic protecting the clamp-
ing pad from the epoxy or you '11 have to chisel it off tomorrow.

Allow the epoxy to harden for 24 ar 75 degrees F.

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Joining the Panels (kit builtlers only)
In preparation for joining sections of tile panels, spread a
sheer of plastic our on a large flat area about 6 feet wide by
the Jengtb of the boat (plus a bit). We find the floor to be
sufficient. Or. you may use smaller pieces of plastic under
each joint.

(Shearwater & Sea island Sport panels show11 in photo!>)

Lay the panels out with the best side of the p lywood down
(this will be the outside of the boat.) Make sure that the
matching panels arc laid out as mirror images to make the
right and left sides of the kayak.

The puzzle joints are epoxied together. If this is your first

e xp erience with ep oxy, we recommend you try a small test batch
to get a feel for the mixing process and to make sure you've
got the 2: l ratio of resin to hardener correct. For g luing puzzle
joints, mix a little silica powder with the resin and hardener to a
thin mustard consistency. Brush epoxy onto the puzzle joints.

Carefully fit the individual pieces of each panel. Align the nibs
of the mating sections and push them together. If t11cy need to
be forced, put a piece of wood over them and carefully tap them
with a hammer. Make sure the mating sections are flush with
each other. Sight along the edges of the panels to make sure that
the curves are smooth.

Cut leng ths of fibergl ass tape to length to fit over the joints
between sections. Brush epoxy onto the panels 2 inches on
either side of the joints, then lay the tape over the joint and bmsb
on more epoxy to saturate the tape.

Hold the panels to be joined securely on a sheet of plastic while

the epoxy cures ovemight.

Once the epoxy has cured, trim the fiberglass flush with the edge
of the panels using a utility knife.

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 Plans Builders rejoin kit builders here ...

Beveling the Panels

Beveling the edges of the panels is important to get a good fit in tbe joint between
them. Use a sharp block plane, rasp or a sanding block with coarse sand paper
to cut the bevels. Bevel the inside of the panel edges (the side with the fiberglass
over the puzzle joint), remembering to create right and left sides in the process.

The beveling diagram on the next page indicates how much of a bevel to put on
the panels. Most edges are beveled to 45 degrees. Precision is not essential at
this stage. If anything, a bit too much bevel is okay and aJlows the panels to join
tightly.

On the sheer panel, mind the sharp tips! And on the deck panels, use extra
caution around the "homs" to avoid breaking them off. You do not need to bevel
the tips of the "horns" at all.

You may need to re-drill some of the wire holes near the puzzle joints between
sections ofthe panels if they've filled with epoxy.

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 Wood Duck Beveling Diagram

\
I

\
(

Sheer Panel

,_
'

25
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 Assembling tbe Hull

lu preparation for the next step, make hundreds of 2"- 3" lengths of wire to use for stitching the panels together. With
stout scissors or metal shears cut the entire coil into thirds.

Some general notes on stitching: Wires are passed from the inside through the holes in the panels so that the wire twists
are on the outside of the boat. Pull on the ends with a pair of pliers to get aU the slack out from the inside of the boat.
Bend t.he wires toward each od1er until they cross and are nearly flat against the plywood. Use the crossed wires like
handles to twist them. The twist should happen close to the plywood.

Note: J11e Wood Duck 14 bas two permanent bulkheads and tlvo hatches, while the 8. 10 and 12-footer on~v have one
bulkhead and hatch. Because of this difference, you will often see the text refer to "bulkhead(s}" or "hatch cover(s) ,.
when the instructions cover all of the Wood Duck models. Specific instntclions are provided.for the 14-footer, where
necessary.

First, loosely wire together the two bottom panels along the keel line. Stack the
two panels with the insides facing each other so the holes line up and pass the
wire through. then loosely twist the ends togeilier with your fingers.

Skip the double-hole locations- these are for the bulkhead(s) and the tempormJ;
forms.

The photograph on the right shows the two bottom panels folded together and
stitched along the keel line. Leave ilie bow and stem ends unstitched at this
stage.

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Next, you will need to open the bottom panels like a book
and wire the bulkhead(s) and temporary forms in place. A
second set of hands will be helpful here.

Our machine has drilled four double-bole locations along

the keel; plans builders should add them to suit. These
double-hole locations are for the permanent bulkhead(s)
and fonns.

Use the parts diagram in the beginning of this manual to

identify the four distinct pieces. (Jfyou are unclem; note
that the widrh of the boflom panels differs at each double-
hole location and will only match the correct form.)

Run one wire tbrough each hole in the bottom of the

bulkhead(s) (top photo). One wire will go the left bottom
panel and one will go to the right. With the bottom panels
spread nearly flat, feed the wires through the double-holes
and twist them snug on the outside.

Once the bulkhead(s) are in place, stitch in the remaining

temporary hull forms.

NOTE: In order to keep the bulkhead(s) and forms straight

while you stitch the hull into shape, you'll need to clamp
some scrap wood along the tops as shown in these photos.

clcboats.com '
 Bringing the Ends Together

The bow and stem have a sharp twist in them, fanning the
Wood Duck's distinctive and handsome looks and cutting t11e
water smoothly.

We've done it dry, but after some experiments we recommend

spraying the last 20 inches of the bow and stern panels with
clean water and letting tl1is soak in before bringing the ends
together.

(NOTE: Always make sure wood parts are bone-dry before

doing any epoxy work.)

Dampened, the panels become much more

flexible.

Coqrinue wiring towards the ends using the pre-

drilled holes. Don' t hesitate to grab a second pair
of hands to hold onto the panels while you stitch
them together.

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Leave these stitches relatively loose for
now.

Reminder: While our machines have

dri lied 95% of the holes required for
assembly, you will occasionally need to
add or relocate holes. In areas with a
lot of tension, an extra set of holes will
distribute tile load and keep tile wire
from dama ging the wood.

At the stem, leave a small gap between these

panels at the top. The bottom tip of the transom
panel will actllally fill this space.

Note the differences bet\veen the Wood Duck

transoms below. At this point. you don 'r need
aerospace tolerances on the transom fits.

Right: Dry-fitting the transom on a Wood Duck 12. The 12 s

transom barely splits the bottom panels and is only "1>1:ired 10
the side panels.

Below: A Wood Duck 10. This transom extends.fiwther into

the bottom panels,filling a larger gap, and is stitched to the
bottom and side panels. The Wood Duck 14 transom also
splits the bollom panels.

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 Adding the Side Panels transoM

The side panels are next. Begin by wiring them

to the top of the bulkhcad(s) and temporary
forms. Thi s will keep the panels in place as you
attach them to the bottom panels.

Make sure you're lining up with the correct holes, and begin
stitching near the middle of the boar and work towards the
ends.

Leave the stitches loose at the ends for the

moment.

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You'll need a helper at the bow
and stern. One person wiLL
apply pressure to the outside of
the bottom panels (closing the
gap shown here) willie the other
tightens tbe wires between tl1e
bottom and side panels.

Here's a helper gently squeezing the bot-

tom panels ...

---

... while the stitches are tightened.

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 The bottom panels will continue to bulge a little
at the bow. You'll need to close tlus gap before
gluing.

Apply a spring clamp to close the gap. Use a piece of sand-

paper to keep the clamp from popping off.

.._ Here's another shot of the clamp on the bottom panels.

Works every time.

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An assembled hulL

Stitching Together the Deck

The deck has an elegant shape but goes together easily. Wire the front and rear deck panels together starting at the front
of the cockpit and working back to the homs. Twist the wires on the outside of the deck.

Add the sheer panels and the deck fom1s.

The foward deck form will geuerate much of

the deck camber. Wire this fonn tightly to the
sheer panel and deck panel on one side, bend
the deck around the form and wire it to the
other side. You can do it solo, but a helper
will really speed this along.

clcboats.com
 Here's the assembled deck,
resting upside-dowu on the hull.

Dry Fitting the Hull and Deck

Before you mix any epoxy, it's time for a trial assembly. This serves a dual purpose:

(I) To practice the deck wiring scheme. Next time you'll be doing this with hot epoxy.

(2) To check tlJe fit of alit be parts. Expect to loosen and tighten some wires for better alignment.

It's also a good time to stand back and admire tlJe shape of your Wood Duck.

H ere's the scheme you ' ll use to assemble the hull

and deck each time: Support the deck above the
hu ll on a few blocks of wood.

Then begin wiring the deck to the hull. Obviously

the wire e nds will need to be outside of the hull.

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Note the cradles fastened to the sawhorses. V-shaped
plywood scraps covered with foam pipe insulation ,..,;11 do
the trick.

Once you have threaded wires from the sheer panel to

the side panel, remove the blocks of wood and pull the
stitches tight to close the gap.

At the sheer panel tips, one wire stitch looped around

hull, sheer panel, and deck will keep everything aligned.

Any gaps can be filled with epoxy later.

Builder's Tip: The Stretch-Wrap Tape Method

Wiring the hull and deck assemblies together (multiple times) C<Ul get a little
tedious, so we often usc this speedy alternative method.

Stretch-wrap tape is easy to work with and allows you to avoid stitching
entirely. Wrap the bow and stem first, then the middle. Continue wrapping
the boat until the hull-to-deck joint is tight and properly aligned. A helper
is ideal for aligning the assemblies. (Shearv.ater Double shown in these
photo!>)

In preparation for the next step, you' 11 need to make some epoxy filleting sticks
as shown. Find some thin scrap wood and round the ends to create giant tongue
depressors.

Your primary filleting tool should be about an inch across with a half-inch radius
at the end. Another one with a fine point (at/eft, in photo) will help you out in
tight spots like the bow.

Check out clcboats.com for precision-cut filleting tools

like those shown here.

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 Tack-welding the hull and deck with epoxy
Time to commit to the shape of the boat. We'll start with tack welds.

First check your trial assembly. Make sure that the joints are tight and the panels
meet cleanly.

Double-check tl1e ends, where the bottom panels have a good bit of twist in them.
If you haven't already done so, apply a clamp to align the panels (right).

Clip the v.ires that are holding the deck assembly to the
hull and set the deck aside. With the deck removed, it is
important to check the alignment of the hulL A few pieces
of scrap wood will help identify twist as you sight do"vn the
hull (right).

Also make sure that the lines of the boat are fair - look for
any humps or valleys along the joints. You may need to till-
wire a section and take a few strokes with your block plane
to eliminate humps.

Before you start mixing glue, let's review the plan for the next hour or so:

I. "Tack-weld" the hull assembly.

2. "Fillet" the bow and stern of the hull assembly with thickened epoxy.

3. "Tack-weld" the deck assembly.

4. Re-attach tl1e hull and deck assemblies so that both cure in the proper shape.

NOTE: It :~ terribly important that you don't accident(v

glue rhe deck assembly to rhe hull assembly at this stage
-protect all of the mating surfaces with masking tape!
Cover the edges ofthe bulkhead(s), remporaryforms,
sheer panels, and side panels.

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Mix up a batch of epoxy and tllicken it with wood flour to
the cousistency of ketchup. You sllould be able to draw
the mixture up into the syringe that we've provided. Using
the syringe, apply a bead of thickened epoxy in tile joiuts
throughout the hull.

If you avoid getting epoxy on the wires, you will easily be able
to remove them after the llull has cured.

Don 'l glue in any of the temporary hull forms! You may tack
in the permanent bulkhead(s), however.

Fillets at the bow and stern will help stiffen the hull. This requires
a new mixture - thicken epoxy with wood flour until you have a
thick "peanut butter'' consistency.

Using your filleting tools, apply the mixture liberally

at the bow and stem. The vvires in these areas will be
buried by the fillets.

Clean any goo off of your filleting tools when you're

done here- they'll be getting a lot more use later 011.

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 Tack-weld the deck assembly as you did with the hull.

Don~ glue in any of the temporary deck forms!

Close up of a tack weld on the deck. Too much epoxy here!

Make your application as neat as possible to avoid sanding later on.

Re-attach the deck and hull

Before hull and deck assemblies have cured, you ,.......__.:-~

must wire them together again. This is so that
the hull and deck cure into shapes that match up
precisely. Use the same wiring scheme as you
used in your previous trial assembly (or more
stretch-wrap tape).

Don't walk away until you're happy with the

alignment everywhere. Wait until the tack-welds
have fully cured before you move on to the next
step.

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Cutting the batch

As we begin, the tack-welded deck is slill wired to the hull.

The standard hatch provides for a flush aft hatch that matches the
grain pattem of the surrounding deck.
We've pre-drilled the hatch spacer to match pre-drilled holes on
the aft deck. Identify the hatch spacer from your kit parts diagram
and use the inside edge of this spacer to draw the hatch opening on
your deck.

Secure the hatch spacer to the deck by running some wire

through the holes provided and tracing the inside edge of
U1e hatch spacer with a pencil.

To repeat - it's the inside edge of the hatch spacer that

defines the deck opening. This is also true if you are
installing a .flush mounted VCP hatch (see next page).
A deck mounted VCP hatch would have a smaller hole,
traced from the inside of the VCP hatch rim.

After you've traced the opening, remove the hatch spacer

from the deck and set it aside. It becomes part of the
batch assembly, so don't lose it.

Sta11 the cut by drilling a series of small (1 / 16") holes on the pencil
line. Work the drill until you have made a slot big enough to fit the
saw blade.

Carefully follow the line all the way arOtmd v.rith your saber saw or
bonsai saw. Nearness counts here - the part that you're cutting out
is the batch cover. A meral cutting blade in U1e saber saw will make
the least ragged cut in the thin deck panel. Note that we've protected
the base of the saber saw with masking tape to avoid scratching the
wood. Steady as she goes.

Note: Wood Duck 14 builders should repeat this procedure for the
forward hatch. Use the pre-drilled holes in the deck panel to locate
the hatch.

clcboats.com -
 **Optional VCP hatch

The 16 x 9 oval VCP hatch is a plug and play fit on the Wood Ducks.
Skip to the next page to continue with the standard hatch installation.

You've got a couple of choices with the VCP hatch on a Wood Duck.
You can skip all of the reinforcement of the hatch opening and just
bolt the hatch rim to the deck. Or, you can glue in the hatch sill and
mount the VCP hatch rim to that, which lowers it a linle visually for a
sleeker installation.

In any case, the VCP hatch should be bolted in place, with a thin bead
of generic marine caulk to keep the water out.

Final installation of the VCP hatch should wait until all varnish work
is done 011 the boat. You'll install it at the same time as seat, footbrac-
es, and deck rigging at the end of the process.

VCP HATCH RIM

DECK

\ \
. ~--- - SILICONE CAUlK
/
NO SPACER- /
I SILICONE CAULK

HATCH SILL ------'

Flush Mounted VCP Hatch DeckJvjQunted VCP H_<~tc h

llll/4[1!10.6cM)driH
o.nol counte-r"" sink
8 holes

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Standard Hatch Assembly

The batch sill assembly is quite simple on the

Wood Duck. The hatch spacer goes between
the deck panel and the harch sill. Pre-drilled
holes (right) will help you line it all up. You
can do a quick dry fit before mixing epoxy.

Once you're satisfied. mix epoxy with silica

powder to a mustard consistency and cover all of
the mating surfaces.

Clamp the assembly in place as shown.

Try to clean up auy excess off the sill
before ir cures- it' ll be a pain to sand later.

Set the batch rim aside until tllis assembly

has cured.

Wood Duck 14 builders shouM repe(lf this

procedure for the forw(lrt/ hatch.

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 Hatch Stiffener

The batch stiffener is a smaller piece of plywood glued to the

underside of the hatch cover. Identify the stiffener from your
kit parts drawing.

(Double-check the grain on your halch cover to make sure that

you're working with the underside.)

Center the hatch stiffener on rhe hatch cover <U1d trace around
it.

Mix another batch of epoxy thickened ro a mustard

consisten cy with silica powder and cover both mating
surfaces.

You can clamp the parts together or, if your clamps are tied
up, use weights (belov.~ .

Just make sure the hatch cover is fiat - no bends or twists

while this is curing. If necessary, you can clamp the hatch
cover onto a table top or a piece of fiat, stiff scrap piY'vood.

Carefully clean up any excess glue.

Wood Duck 14 builders should repeat this procedure for
the fonvard hatch.

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Hatch Rims

Once your hatch sill assembly has ctrred,

you can remove the clamps and add the
hatch rim, which improves watertightness.

Mix a small batch of epoxy thickened with

silica powder to a mustard consistency and
slather it arotmd the mating surfaces.

The batch rim lines up flush with the edge

of tl1e batch sill.

Clamp it down and let it cme.

Wood Duck 14 builders should repeat this

procedure on the forward hatch.

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 Removing the temporary forms

After everything bas cured, it's time ro separate the deck from the hull again. Cut the wires at the hull to deck joint and
set the deck aside.

Car~fiil- I he deck assembly is a little fragile at the moment, so gel some help when moving it. Handle it from the one-
third points, not the ends.

The temporary forms in the bull and deck assemblies have served their purpose. Snip the necessary wires and pull the
fom1s out. (Remember that the 8, 10 and 12-foot hulls do have one permanent bulkhead at the rear of the cockpit- that
one stays. The 14-footer has two pennanent bulkheads.)

Removing the rest of the wires

Some kayak builders leave the wire stitches in,

particularly t11e ones at the bow and stern that are
trapped by the fillets there. As long as the wires
are pressed down against the joints they will be
covered by epoxy fillets. The stitches can be
snipped on the outside and sanded flush with the
exterior.

Removing the wires can make for a neater job,

however, especially where the panels meet at a
shallow angle. As long as your tack-welds have
fully cured, the wires can go.

You can beat the ends of wires that are trapped in the epoxy. This should
briefly soften the epoxy just enough to pull the wires free.

Otherwise just snip the ends and sand them flush.

Once you have the wires out, sand off any sharp spikes of epoxy or wood and any major epoxy filllS throughout the hull
and deck assemblies. Epoxy stalactites or malformations might obstruct the fiberglass reinforcement.

You 'II have to work gently, as both assemblies are only lack welded.

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Filleting and taping the interior joints

Round up your filleting tools and fiberglass tape. Prepare for a

few hours of continuous work at this point.

Every interior joint of the hull and deck assemblies will get
a thick epoxy nllet. All of those fillets, except around the
pennm1ent bulkllead(s), are then covered with 3" fiberglass tape.

Add wood flour to your mixture of resin and hardener to achieve

a putty consistency. The foolproof way to make sure you have
the epoxy mix exactly right is to add wood flour w1til the epoxy
won't flow off the mixing stick, even slowly. You 're after smooth
peanut butter; mix it too thick and you'll get chtmky peanut but-
ter, which won't work

Move the thickened epoxy from your mixing cup into another
cup, this one lined with an ordinary oue-ga11on freezer bag.

Lift the bag out of the cup and twist it tight, with the epoxy forced down into one
comer.

Clip about one-quarter inch off of the bag's comer. Now you have a sort of pas-
try bag, filled with epoxy.

Gently squeeze epoxy as you steadily move along each seam. You 'II need about
a half-inch thick bead of goo to make a strong fillet.

(Sea Island Sport s!Jown in photo)

Once your bag of epoxy is exhausted, immediately pick up your filleting tool and
smooth the epoxy into a coved shape as sho\vn. Neawess counts. One bag of
epoxy won't do the whole hull; you may need to mix a two or three more batches
of epoxy.

Several small batches are preferable to one large one that starts kicking off before
you can get it smooth.

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 You can clean up any excess with a plastic epoxy spreader or an
old credit card.

The cockpit area is the most visible, so make an effort to create

smooth fillets there.

You can sec that we used masking tape for cxn:a-ncat fillets.
Pull the tape before the epoxy cures!

While the fillets are still tacky (within an hour or two) you can
roll out the fiberglass tape along the joints in the hull.

Once the tape is in position, use a bristle brush to apply

unthickened epoxy on the fiberglass tape. Thoroughly sarurate
the tape so tl1at it bonds with the hull. When the tape turns clear,
you'll know you've got enough epoxy on it.

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Before the fillets and the fiberglass tape have cured, line the cockpit
area witll a rectangular sheet of fiberglass fabric measuring so long,
measured from the aft bulkhead as shown, and just wide enough to
cover tile seams at U1e sides.

Using another batch oftmthickened epoxy, thoroughly wet out the

cloth. Use a plastic spreader to saturate the fabric (middle rigl!l).

When you're done, the fiberglass has turned clear. Avoid epoxy
pooling in the bottom of the boat, which constitutes weight without
strength. On the first coat, the fabric should be clear but the weave
should still be prominent.

While you're at it, coat the eutire interior with clear epoxy to seal up
the wood.

You will need to return to the interior once the epoxy has cured
and apply at least one more coat of epoxy to ''fill the weave" in the
cockpit.

Next you' ll ueed to fillet and tape the deck assembly,

just like you 've done with the hull. {Right.)

There is no extra fiberglass cloth for the w1dcrside

of the deck. but you will need to seal the deck with
unthickened epoxy. We recommend this sealing coat
of epoxy be applied at the same time the fiberglass
tape is "wetted out."

A second coat of epOl.1' should be applied over the

underside of the deck after the first coat bas cured
fot a day ot so.

47
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 Attaching the deck to the hull
Time to put the deck on the hull for the last rime.
By now the stitching system is familiar (right).

(Stretch-wrap tape ma_v be used instead ofwire.)

To summarize the next few steps: First the deck is

tack-welded to tile hull. After the epoxy has cured
the stitches will be snipped and removed. Finally,
the hull-to-deck joint is reinforced on the inside
with epoxy fillets and fiberglass tape.

Before you remove the support sticks and pull the

hull and deck together, mix silica powder with epoxy
to your tack-welding consistency and apply it along
the top edge of the hull.

- !,) "

Remove the sticks and pull the deck and hull

togetiler, twisting the wires for a tight fit.

In a few spots you may find it necessary to insert a

screwdriver blade and lever the hull and deck into
alignment. One hand does the levering and the other
tightens the wire with the seam aligned. Have a
helper standing by to assist.

clcboats.com
For gettiing fiberglass tape up into the ends of the hull,
you 'll need to have this special tool ready. Cut the hru1dle
off of a disposable brush and screw it to a 2-3 foot long
piece of scrap wood. Attach the bmsh at about a 45-degree
angle.

Rest the hull on its side on the sawhorses . (Clamp some

scraps to the sawhorses vertically to rest the hull against.)

Mix up another batch of filleting material (epoxy thickened ~

with wood flour to a peanut butter consistency) and use the
pastry-bag technique to dispense it along the hull-to-deck
joint.

Reach as far as you can through the cockpit and the hatch to
cover these seams. You won't be able to get all of the way
to the ends---not a big deal.

Due to the bulkhead, you'll need two lengths offiberglass

tape per side. Each piece will end about a foot short of the
bow or stern.

In a disposable tray, pour about 8 ounces of thoroughly

mixed resin and hardener. Roll up your four lengths of
fiberglass tape and submerge tilem in the epoxy.

Wood Duck I 4 builders have two bulkheads and will

require three lengths offi.berglass tape per side.

Wear gloves for this!

Work the epoxy into the fiberglass tape with your

fingers.

clcboats.com -
 When the tape is thoroughly saturated it is ready to go
into the hull.

Note the disposable foreann protectors, strongly

suggested for keeping epoxy off of your skin during this
step.

Roll out the pieces of tape along the

seams. Use your extend-a-brush tool
to smooth out the tape and center it
along the seam. It's much easier to
do than it looks!

While the tape sets up on this side you can take a few minutes to fillet the top of the bulkhead to the underside of the
deck

Due to variations inherent in construction, there may be a considerable gap. Lay th.e boat upside do\\rtl and spread your
thick filleting mixture along the bulkhead to deck seam. Take your time to make this tllis fillet is watertight.

Next, roll the boat onto the other side to fillet and tape the other seam.

50
\ clcboats.com
Sanding the hull
(Sheanvater shown in these photos)
Before fiberglassing take some time to clean up the outside of
the boat and sand it smooth. How you leave it before you apply
fiberglass is l10w it'll look forever beneath vamish.

Use a file to remove drips and smooth any embedded wire ends
on the deck-to-hull joint Take care io not scratch the wood.
Now use medium (120-grit) sand paper on a palm or random
orbital sander to smooth the entire boat. Sand carefully; don ' t
overdo it and sand through the first layer of the plywood.

Dark stains caused by earlier epoxy work W1LL disappear

beneath subsequent coats, so no need to fret over those.

Shop Hint: Eric Schade often uses a sheet of sandpaper folded

in half to hand sand the boat, almost as fast as a power tool.
Spray the back side or the sandpaper w ith contact cement first,
then fold it in half. The contact cement keeps the two sides from
sliding against each other and makes the paper stronger and
easier to use.

Use your block plane to round over the joints to a small radius
about l/4". On deck and on the keel where the angles between
the panels are small just use some sandpaper to soften the comer
between the panels.

The bow and stem need to be carefully rounded to about a 1/4''

radius. TI1e fiberglass won't flow around a sharp comer. Use a
rasp and sanding block to smooth the bow and stem.

If you want to decorate your boat with veneer inlays or sign

your initials, now is the time. Brush ou a coat of epoxy before
applying veneers.

Tum the boat upside down. Sweep off and dust with a brush or clean, lint-free
rag. It's a good idea to protect your sawhorses with plastic so the boat won't
stick to them.

Prior to fiberglassing the hull, it is wise to apply masking tape along the joint
between the side panel and the sheer panel, or you'll have to saud epoxy runs off
the sheer panel - never fun.

51
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 Fiberglassing the hull

The fabric is draped on the uptumed hull, dry, covering the

bottom and sides. Cut a dart at the bow, as shown in the
photos, and arrange the cloth so that you'll have a few ex\Ta
inches to wrap around the bow.

This next step should be done with care as it shows. Plan to do it in

one session. Choose a warm, dry time to work. If you are working in
cold or wet conditions, you may need to heat your workspace. Don't
use a space heater which exhausts into the room, as most kerosene
heaters do, because they produce water vapor which can affect the
epoxy. Read the epoxy manufacturer's recommendations.
Mix up a batch of about 2 cups of clear epoxy (with no wood flour).
Use a 2" bristle brush and a plastic squeegee to work the epoxy into
the 'glass. The 'glass will become clear as the epoxy soaks through
it into the wood. Start by pouring a pool in the middle of the bottom
and work it out from there with the squeegee. Bubbles and dry spots
look white or gray and need more epoxy.

Spread the epoxy down the sides with a brush and squeegee. Always
work away from the middle of the bottom toward the ends and sides:
this will smooth out any wrinkles. Let the excess fiberglass cloth
hang down from the sheer line. Bmsh or squeegee out any bubbles.
Use the bmsh in a "dabbing" motion to fill bubbles in tough places
such as the edges of veneer art.
You'll need to mix up more epoxy as you go. Do not mix large
batches because the epoxy can cure faster than you can use it,
especiaJly in hot weather.
Take some time to make sure you have smoothed all the drips and
filled all the bubbles. The surface should be consistently wet looking
without shiny, over-saturated areas (clear pools) or dry areas (white or
gray spots).

clcboats.com
When tl1e epoxy has cured, cut the excess glass off along the
sheer line with a sharp knife. If you trim the fiberglass wiiliin
eight bours it will be easier to do because the epoxy isn't so
hard.

It will rake a total of about three coats of epoxy to fill the weave
of the fabric. Ideally, the last two coats of epoxy arc applied
nor less than eight hours and nor more than about 24 hours
apart. CLC uses non-amine blushing epoxy so this rule can be
stretched quite a lot.

When the weave of the fiberglass fabric has been filled, it"s
time to sand. Areas where one layer of fiberglass overlaps onto
another will need to be "feathered" into each other so that you
can't feel the overlap with your fingers.

When sanding, begin with 80-grit sandpaper and work down to

220-grit. Some builders swear by carbide scrapers (right) for the
roughest part of the smoothing.

Readying the deck

Make sure the sheer panel-to-hull joint, where the fiberglass on the hull leaves off. has been smoothed until you can't feel
any sharp btunps. The fiberglass on the deck will need to overlap this joint without forming air bubbles.

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 Fiberglassing the deck . \!. .~--.. -
Begin by draping the deck with fiberglass fabric. Let the fabric
overhang the sheer panels about 1-1/2" to 2".
\Vhen you apply the epoxy. start in the middle, just forward of the
cockpit. Work out from the center. Leave the cloth that covers the
hatch and cockpit openings but do not epoxy these areas; you'll trim
this cloth with a razor knife after the epoxy has begtm to cure.

You've worked hard to get tbe fiberglass smooth on the side of the hull,
so obsessively squeegee the bull sides to remove drips and nms. You
will have sand the sides aga in to "feather in" the overhanging deck
'glass. but there's no need to make extra work for yourself.

Don't forget about the hatch cover(s). They should be sheathed

in fiberglass at the same time as the rest of the deck so that the
colors match. Set the hatch cover(s) up on a workbench to
fiberglass tbe top. (Shean-vater hatch cover shown)

After the epoxy has cured, cut the fiberglass from the cockpit and
hatch openings with a sharp knife. As with the hull, it will take
two more coats of epoxy on the deck and batch cover to fill the
weave of the fiberglass fabric.

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Installing the cockpit coaming
Put a piece of plastic or cardboard into the cockpit to catch any epoxy drips.

The cockpit coaming is a sandwich of three layers: two coaming spacers, which
are in left and right halves, and the coaming ring itself.

TLlicken epoxy to a mustard consistency with silica powder and liberally butter up
the mating surfaces of the coaming spacers and coaming.

Spring clamps work best on the cockpit coaming because they are fast and can be
set in place with one hand. Whatever kind of clamps you use, you can't have too
many. The coan1ing needs to be firmly glued down.

A good bit of epoxy will squeeze out. (Be careful not

lO overtighten e-elamps; you 'II squeeze out too much
epo::..)' and may even dent the wood.)

On the outside, use your gloved finger to form a

"fillet" beneath the overhanging lip of the coaming.
This will add a lot ofstreugtLl.

A nd do the best you can to clean up the epoxy on the inside of

the coaming or you ' II be sanding for hours.

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 When tl1e epoxy cures, remove all the clamps and use
a rasp or course sandpaper to smooth the inside and
outside of the coaming.

If you 0\\.'11 a router, a 3/8" roundover bit works great for

finishing inner edge of the cockpit coru.ning.

You can achieve ll1e same effect with a rasp and sanding block.

You will need to apply several coats ofunthickened epoxy to the

coaming with a brush to strengthen and protect the wood.

clcboats.com
0Jltional End Pour

An eud pour will provide extra strength in the bow and

allow you to drill for toggles or mount a padeye.

Using a narrow. deep container such as a plastic cup, mix

up a runny mixture of epoxy thkkened with woodflour.
If you have access to micro-balloon filler you can make a
lighter end-pour. Mix up about 8 ounces.

After leaning the boat up against some safe perch, reach

into the cockpit and pour the mixture into the end of the
boat, letting it fill the end for 4 inches or so.

The large lump of epoxy sets up pretty quickly. Don 't

do this on a windy day, and be extra caref11ltbat the boat
doesn't fall on someone.

Wood Duck 14 builders will pour their epoxy through the

forward hatch instead ofthe cockpit.

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 Finishing

At this point tlle kayak looks nearly complete and it is time to get on with the finish work.

Skim coats

We'll begin the easy to ride to varnis!J and completion by finishing up with the sanding and the application oft!Jin
finisb coats of epoxy for a hard, mirror-smooth surface. Use 80-grit sandpaper to feather any edges of fiberglass cloth
that still show, such as the hull-to-deck joint. With the rough spots removed, shift to 120-grit paper and sand Lhc whole
boat. Don't forget the hatch covers. Hand sanding witl1 a folded-over sheet of paper will give you more "feel" for
irregularities in the surface.

Clean off the dust >with a clean, dry, lint free cloth moistened with denatured alcohol. Don't use a tack cloth, acetone, or
mineral spirits as these contain contaminants that will prevent a good epoxy bond.

Mix up a cup of epoxy and roll it on. thin, with a thin-nap yellow foa m
roller. 'Tip out" the coating with a foam brush or squeegee for the
smoothest possible surface (right, Shearwater shown). This is a good
opportunity to coat any bare wood that remains, such as the hip braces.
grab loop holes, or batch rims.

Nore that if you are planning to pailll the boat. you can thicken the
epoxy with "fairing filler" to speed the process. Fairing filler is a
lightweight, tluffy powder deigned for just this type of work. It is
available from System Three Resins or West System.

By t!Je way, if you can't bear it any longer, you may try out your boat
before you varnish. Try not to get too much sun on it, as the epoxy
lacks ultraviolet resistance and will start to yellow in the absence of a
protective coat ofvamish... .just keep it to a day tTip or two.

Final sanding

Plan a full day of sanding depending on the level of finish you want. This stage is the difference between an average
finish and an award winner. Your goal is to provide a smooth, ripple-free surface fo r the vamish or paint, which won't
hide anytl1ing.

If you are using a power sander such as a random orbital or palm

sander, it is of paramount importance that you keep the sander flat on
the surface and keep it moving over a large area. Sand only the flat
surfaces, leaving the chines and edges to be sanded by hand (right).
Change the sandpaper often, as dull paper builds up hea t, which
softens the epoxy and fills the paper more quickly, and so on in infinite
regTession. At t11is poiut you 'II be working with 120-grit paper, as all
major bumps should be gone.

Sandpaper glued to a sanding block or flexible fairing board works

well too and can be nearly as fast as a pah11 sander. The results might
be better than with an inexpertly handled power sander.

58
clcboats.com
Use hand sandpaper to smooth the edges of the panels. It's
terribly easy to cut through the fiberglass on the chines and
edges of the deck. etc., so exercise great caution and don't
use power tools ou the edges. If you cut through tile 'glass on
any edge, you should patch that area with a bit offabric and
epoxy and feather it in. Water will penetrate even a pinhole
and, through capillary action, propagate through the plywood,
causing unsightly stains beneath the varnish.

Fussy details like the cockpit coaming and batch sill require
patient hand sanding.

When you're done sanding, every surface to be painted or varnished should be smoothed with 220-grit paper. Take some
time to sand the inside of the boat too. While not as critical, you should remove any major drips that might pierce skin or
storage bags.

Don't forget the little bits, like the hatch and the hatch toggles! The hatch
toggles should be hung on nails and given a thick coating of epoxy. Like
everything else they should be sanded to 220 grit in preparation for varnish.

59
clcboats. cmr.
 Varnish or Paint the Kayak

All things being equal, it's the varuisll or paint that's going to make people "ooh" and "ahh'' over your project. Take the
time to do it well. Most builders will varnish the entire hull and deck. It will take 3-5 coats to build up a deep gloss,
sanding between each coat.

If you want to varnish the entire boat in one toss, you u need to suspend it from the ceiling; this could be trid.J' with only
one hatch opening. It's a lor easier to vamish rhe hull up to the deck edge, then right the hull and finish off with the deck
and cockpit.

Vamishing is au art. There are several very detailed articles on varnish at www.clcboats.com. Everyone has their own
teclmique, but here are some things that I found helpful:

Apply the varnish in thin coats; if you see rw1s it's because the
vamish is too tltick in that spot. Use a little brushing thinner or
warm the varnish prior to use to help you get a tuliform thin coat.

Watch for formation of runs or sags around the cockpit or any

fittings and clean them up quickly, before the varnish has started to
set (you've got one or two minutes, max). Avoid t11e temptation to
go back later, especially during the last coat, as the resulting brush
strokes look even worse.

The first two coats ofvamish need not be flawless. A quick

scuff-sand to remove any flll1S is all t11at's requ ired. A Scotch-
Brite Pad works well between the build-up coats.

220-grit dry sandpaper or 400-grit wet sanding paper between

later coats is the best way to flatten the varnish.

You may need to make several attempts at your final coat.

Keep your workspace cle<m and dust free ... as much as possible.
Sweep up the day before. Spread water on the floor if possible.
Keep doors and windows closed on windy days. Wear a respirator
if you are in a confined space.

If you paint, app ly it the same general way. A high-build primer

can help with tl1at yachr-like finish. Use a wllite primer for white
or light-colored paint and gray for darker colors.

Photos:

Top: Dispense your varnish into a separate container, so that you

don t contaminate the original container or allow its vital solvents
to escape.
1\fiddle: The varnish should go on VERY thin. Compared to the
household paints or varnish you may have used in the p ast, the
roller shouldfeel almost DRY as y ou apply the varnish.
Bottom: "Tip out" the bubbles left by the roller with light strokes
ofa foam brush, always stroking from a dlJ' swiace into wet, to
maintain a "wet edge. "

60
clcboats.com
Outfitting the Boat
This is the final step that gives your kayak its personal feel. Your kit includes the necessary line and hardware to
get your boat rigged. Many builders will customize to suit. Plans builders may order all of these components at
www.clcboats.com. (Note:footbraces and deck rigging are optional items and not included in the Wood Duckling 8)

Installing the footbraces

The foot braces supplied with the kit arc Keepers. They are tough, corrosion r-;:::;;:-:-:-:::==:::;:;:;::~~~;:;:;::=::::::;:::::==:::ii:l
resistant black plastic <Uld are standard in many commercial kayaks.

If you have long legs, you should sit in your boat before installing the foot
braces. The Keepers mount using stainless steel screws fastened though the
side of the bull.

(CLC also carries an optional footbrace mounting kit, which does away with
screws though the hull.)

Locate the foot braces about 3 inches below the top edge of U1e side
panels. Sit in the boat (on a soft surface) and to determine the correct
location fore and aft. Keepers have more than 12'' of adjustment, so if
you position them well your variously sized friends will be able to borrow
the boat with no trouble.

Mark the loca tion for screws on the outside of the bull with a pencil. ar
you have already varnished the boat, put a piece of tape there and mark
on that.) Mark the rear screw hole 14-5/8" from the front screw hole.
Repeat the process on the other side and doublecheck yow- measurements.

Drill the holes with a 1/4" bit. You will see a raised piece at one end of
each footbrace rail. This is a stopper for the sliding footpeg; the end with
this stopper faces the bow of the boat.

You must bed the footbrace screws in a good-quality clear silicone caulk or you \vill risk water stains in the wood armmd
the footbrace screws.

61
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 Installing the backband

The kit includes a Rapid Pulse backband. It consists of a padded

section for your back, adjustable straps which mount underneath
the deck, and bungee cord which holds the backband in place.

Find the nylon webbing in the backband package. Cut it in half

to get two equal lengths of webbing. Fit the finish washers onto
the screws. Fold the last inch of the webbing under, and work
the screw through the two layers of webbing.

Drive the screw up through the deck and the coaming spacers
and tighten it down onto the webbing. All screws for rigging
should be bedded in clear silicone caulk, including these. The
webbing should be led toward the back of the cockpit.

Next, tie the btmgee in a loop which passes through all four
loops on the back of the backband.

Use a simple, loose overhand knot near one end, then follow the
knot backwards with the other end and pull the resulting knot
tight.

Drill holes on the underside of the coaming for the cable clamp
screws. An awl might be snfficient to start the holes. The holes
should be 3 inches on either side of the centerline or 6 inches
apart. Fit the plastic cable clamps to the side loops of the
bungee. Use a stubby Phillips-head screwdriver to drive in the
wood screws holding the cable clamps and bungee.

62
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Weave the webbing through the plastic buckles at the sides of the
backband and adjust them to get the backhand tight and centered.
It should be about 2-4 inches away from the cockpit coaming.
You can trim the excess webbing if you like. Use sharp scissors
or a knife and seal the frayed ends with a match or lighter.

Installing the seat

The seat is made from two pieces. The lower piece has the cut-out. (See rhe
drawing bela~-:) Glue the two pieces togerher with waterproof (usually marked
flammable) contact cement, rhe same kind you would use to apply a laminated
counrertop. Follow the glue manufacturer's instmctions carefully.

Place the seat in the cockpit. Set the boat on the lawn or a carpeted lloor and
sit in it. Adjust tl1e foot braces, backrest and seat location for comfort. Mark
the seat's location. Use double-sided tape to temporarily stick the seat in that
position for several paddling trips. When you are sure of its location, glue it
down.

You may wish to add thigh pads to tl1e underside of the deck.
These can be carved from minicell foam and contact-cemented
beneath the knee braces in the cockpit. Wait tllltil you're sure
of your seat location first. Carve the minicell foam with a bread
knife, checking the fit as you go. Use course sandpaper for final
shaping.

C:!LUE SEAT f .)?AtE.R.

T06E. ntE.R w rnt
C.O~TAtT C..11 E:.NT
SA~D EDbE.S ~
i30ND A5SE1'113LY
TO ~OTTDI'l Qj:
t-IULL 11vl11-\
f C.ONTAc_T C.tf"lE..NT.

63
clcboats.c01r
 Deck Lines

Deck lines add to the safety and utility of your boat. A figure-8 of bungee in front of the cockpit works well to hold
charts, water bottles and such. A figure-8 of bungee behind the cockpit will hold your paddle during a wet re-entry. Of
course, you can add anything you feel you need.

If your boat is varnished, put a piece of masking tape down to mark your hole locations. Drill a 3/ 16" hole for each
screw.

'--~
The bungees are held to the deck using short pieces of webbing
screwed to the deck. Cut 8 pieces of l -inch webbing 4-1/2'' long, then
fold one inch of one end lmder. Fold the other end under that. You'll
end up with tlrree layers of webbing at one side with a loop of only
two layers sticking out the other end. Use a nail heated with a torch to
melt a hole through the three layers for the screw.

Put a finish washer 011 a 1" screw and put it through each loop of
webbing. Screw one into each of the the holes you drilled in the deck.
Put a washer on the screw from the inside of the deck followed by a
nut. Turn the webbing so the loop faces the centerline of the deck.
Tighten the nut. As with every fastener that pierces the hull, these
fasteners should be bedded in clear silico11e caulk.

String the deck buugee. Tie a knot at one end of the bun gee cord. To make a figure "8" pattern, start at the right rear.
String through the right forward, then left forward, right rear, left rear, right forward, left forward and tie another knot
after passing through the left rear eye. Tighten the cord so things will stay put. Cut off any excess.

64
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Optional Handles

Here we've mounted optional brass pad eyes and VCP kayak
toggles on the bow and stem. In the bow, bronze wood screws
are bedded in the end pour.

In the stem, we mouuted the pad eye to a backing

block under the deck using machine screws, washers,
and locking nuts.

Screwing on these locking nuts is a job for a tall.long-

anned friend immune to claustrophobia.

65
clcboats. cmr
 Hatch closing toggles and gaskets

The hatch gasket is the roll of self-adhesive weather-

stripping included in the kit.

Run the tape around the outside edge of the hatch cover(s),
taking care not to stretch the gasket during application.

The closing toggles have been sanded, epoxy coated, and

vamjshed before installation. Measure and mark 1/2" from the
hatch operung in four spots around the hatch. Drill a 5/32" hole
at each mark.

Put a finish washer on a 1-1/4" screv followed by a wooden

toggle. Drive the screw into the drilled hole. TI1e hole is smaller
than tl1e screw so it requires some force. Tighten tl1e screw onto
the toggle until the toggle moves stiffly. Put a flat washer and
nut on the end of the screw underthe deck and tighten the nut.
Don 'r forget a dab of silicone caulk in each screw hole!

Lastly, you 'II need a float bag for your forward compartment, which doesn't have a bulkhead. They're sold in pairs,
and placing the extra in the stern comparuneut won't hm1 either. NRS 's l 0-gauge urethane float bags won't leak or
delarnjnare.

Happy paddling! And don ' t forget that we love to get your pictmes: info@clcboats.com

clcboats. com
Wood Duck Accessories
These are tt small selet'lion cf om tools, s11pplies and accmwies. Ca// 410.267 .0137 A
or z1isil www.clcboats.com jorp1idng anrl ordering il!formation.

A. VCP Oval Hatch

B. Float Bags
C. Kayak Dolly
D. Creature Comfort Seat

Boatbuilding Tools
E.
F.
Low Angle Block Plane (1-3/8" x 6")
Bullnose Rabbet Plane (1-1 /8" x 4")
Kt'i:]
G. Stanley Spokeshave
H. Watersto.ne L
I. .Japanese Sa"''
J. Bonsai Saw

- .-
K. Super-hard :\{illed Scraper (set of 4) M
L. SlidingT-Bevel (1/2" x 6-1/4" x 7") p I Q
M. Plastic Epoxy Spreader (
N. Epo::-..-y Syrli~ge
0. Shinto Saw Rasp
N
~-~:..
~~--
~,
P. .MAS Rapid Cure IY1ini Kit 0 "\ ~
Q. ~L-\S Handy Rep air Kit < [ b

u t I . r-- --
f ----;

Finishing R ~~
1
Btightsid<' .
W..""....
Brigbtside~'
M~-
Brigh tsid<
i'drurM~
Unghts!de\ Brightsidl
~"- PwyunU...,.
.__.

R. Interlux Brightsides Paint

.,.. ~ - .,_ <::> '- ~ :.,_ <::> . - :::::::> '
v
(Yellm\~ Fire Red, Sea Green, Dark Blue,
Hatteras Ot't:W]ute, \\!Jute, Sapphire Blue,
Black. Other colors avaibble.)
S. IntedtL-..:: Schooner Varnish c:::~
T. Tntedux Goldspar Satin Varnish
s T ~t 11\t.erl~l

U. Chip Brush
V. Foam Brush

...~~!!~ X

W. Roller Frame
X. Foam Roller Covers
y
Y Fine Lne Tape
Other Accessories
Be prepared, be safe. The Touring Safety
Kit \\ill pull you through the common
emergencies you'll encounter. For tl1e be-
ginner or the expert paddler, tllis kit includes
a bilge pump, whistle, signal mirror, paddle
float, paddle leash and a boat sponge all conve- ~
niently packaged inside a Mesh Deck Bag.
NRS Deluxe Touring Safety Kit

Chesapeake Light Craft has

years of experience produc-
~RS Signal :M irror & \Xihstle N RS Eco Flare @ CHESAPEAKE L IGHT C RAFT ing stitch-a..nd-glue sea kayak
The Zen of Wooden designs that are easy to build
Kayak Building and a joy to paddle. More

THULE.;r~~:a:~~t
Tlmu to Build a Lightwt'ig/JI Sed Ka)'ak
Chesapeake Light Craft
kayaks ha,e been built from
plans and kits ma..n any oilier.
Wim modern cars, the
old-fashioned stamped-metal variety just won't do it, ei-
tflfjiiJiiiiiiiiiill-- \Ve've always said it's easy to
build a stitch-a..nd-glue kayak.
ilier. The safety of tl1e beautiful boat you built, and of the Now watch how easy it is!
other drivers on d1e
road, depends on a With dear visuals a..nd engag-
secure cartopping ing wit, boatbujjder John
system. Chesapeake Harris takes you step-by-step
Light Craft nm,v iii~liiiiiii fro m a pile of parts to an el-
carries the Thule l ega..ntly varnished Chesapeake
(TOO-lay) line of 16 kayak . .t\nd your new skills
premium-quality ;iiiilliilliil!~~=~:!!llll',.. apply to any wood-epm.:y
roof racks that can sm all boat.
fit any car.
GPS/CeU Phone Case
\'?ildly popular waterproof padded case with
roll-down cop for GPS units, cell phones, or
oilier similar size electronic devices. Phones
--~ . may be dialed and used and GPS units oper-
'
ated wlllie sealed inside me case. Foam flota-
tion; includes dips for securing to boars.

NRS Ricksack Dry Bags

99'}'v vf Loal ln:Ulcc -'Lvr~ :lpcci.al.i..z.c ll"l ju~t one th.ll'l5; L&:a.i..l- The RicksacF=-1 series pro,ides me adYrul-
ers for powerboats. Ask mem for a kayak or canoe trailer tage Of a see-through bag \Vith me added
and you'll get a funny look. After endless requests, we durability of a thread-reinforced PVC
bod~ I n fact, we consider this the most
found a source for light trailer kits made just for iliose of
u s '-virh kayaks or small boars. These trailers fir smallcraft durable transparent bag on the market.
like the Jimmy Skiff or Skerry, and up to four kayaks. Best SrormSrripnr vinyl closure system com-
of all, iliese trailers are shipped Yia UPS right to your bined wiili stiff PVC band folds dO\m to
door and are quick to create an incredibly dry seal.
assemble. Trailex trailers
Chart Case
are solid alumi..num, mak-
Keeps maps, charts, and WlYel docu-
ing them easy to move
ments dry, protected and accessible.
around your yard. And
on-glare vinyl witl1 rolled closure. 12"
they won't rust!
X 18".
CLC T-shirts
Visit clcboats.com for a full
selection of our r-shirts.
C LCCap
The cutting edge of fashion
and comfort. \\lith the CLC
paddler.

Even More Products

at
www.clcboats.com!

Visit our Huge Website at

www.clcboats.com!
Nor only will you find more photographs and details
abom our products, but you can:
Order online
Read back issues of "Notes From Our Shop"
Srudy page after page of building tips Email photos to info@clcboars.com
Participate in the CLC Forum o r mail a CD or prints to:
Learn about shows, classes and events Chesapeake Lght Craft, LLC
1805 George Avenue
Follow the shop action on the "ShopCam"
Annapolis, l\ID 21401
Find out about special offers and sales
Paddles, Oars and Rudders
Feathercrafi: Single Rudder Kit (Kl )
If you paddle in strong winds, big seas,
or with heavy loads, a rudder is inYalu-
able. This well made surf r udder kit in-
cludes everything you'll need to [nstall
a foo t steering system in any of our
boats. K.it includes blade, adjustable
footbraces, cables, lift line, hardware,
and V-block for securing stowed blade.
Feathercrafi: Double Rudder Kit (K2)
As above, but larger blade, for
doubles or sailing singles.
Piantedosi Row Wing
Arguably the best sliding seat
unit in the sport, the Piantedosi's
mon orail design is simple, el-
egant, and stiff, with an excep-
tionally smooth feel. D esigned
and built by a former Olympic
rower. Supplied with Concept 2
oarlocks.
Kalliste Foam Core by \Verner Camano by Werner
Quite simply, the Kalliste is d1e This classic Low
ultimate low angle touring paddle. By Angle touring paddle
combu1ing an advanced foam core has stood the test of
design with a mid-size blade, Werner time by combining
developed an amazing paddle \\i.th the the best balance of
perfect combination of gentle power light weight, dura-
and a smooth easy stroke. The bent bilit:y, and smooth
shaft aligns your wrists for reduced forward strokes. Light
fatigue. swing weight reduces
fatigue and signature
This paddle is strong but bizarrely, dihedral/asymmetry
eerily light in your hands - 26 ounces. creates smooth for-
If you're currendy using a 36-ounce ward strokes for ail-
paddle, you're lifting an e..'ma 10 day comfort. Bright
ounces per stroke.. At a mediwn stroke translucent colors
rare, that's an extra 1,685 pounds per increase visibility.
h our! ~o wonder you're tired after you A,ailable in Yellow
paddle. Make the leap to a paddle rills and Orange.
light, and you'll never paddle anything
h eavy again.
Toe Pilot Foot Control (Smarr Track
System)
This footbrace and rudder control as-
sembly includes ergonomically designed,
t\vo-part foot pedals that offer signifi-
cant advantages over anytl1ing else on
the market. Unlike other systems, your
feet don't slide back and forth ro steer.
The lower half o f the pedals is locked in
position so you remain in a solid brace
at all the tUnes. Steering is accomplished
by minute pressure from your toes to the
top half of d1e pedals. yen while seared,
pedal position is easily adjusted for differ-
ent users. Pedals cannot be accidentally
dislodged and the track design prevents
sand build-up.
Super Comp Lites by Chesapeake Rowing
Supplied to our specifications by Chesa-
peake Rowing. These graphite and
unidirectional fiberglass sculls feature a
double-tapered square section design that
is both very light and very stiff. Tradition-
al lVIacon blades. For sliding seat rowing
boats.
Spoon Blade Oars
Beautiful, 11icely balanced spoon blade
oars carved from Sitka Spruce and
dip-varnished. We bring these i.n from
Barkley Sow1d, in British Columbia. For
fixed-seat rowing boats. Available sizes: 8'
oars (Skerry), at 7-1/ 2' (Jimmy Skiff) and
6-1 / 2' (Eastport Pram) .
CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT
THE BEST BOATS YOU CAN BUILD...

CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT

1805 George Avenue, Annapolis, Maryland 21401

TEL. 410.267.0137
FAX. 410.267.5689
For shipping quotes and ordering assistance,
e-mail us at info@clcboats.com
For answers to technical questions, e-mail us at info@clcboats.com