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E-Formulary/

Directory 2017

Boosting
Skin Strengths

Skin Care
Anti-acne
Anti-cellulite
Antiperspirants/Deodorants
Barrier Repair
Emollients/Humectants
Moisturizers
Skin Healing

Balancing
Sensitivity
Natural
Anti-acne

Free E-book Sponsored By:


Research | C&T

Boosting Skin Strengths


Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
Cosmetics & Toiletries

H ow could skin be any busier? Its con-


stantly performing activities including
nutrient and moisture modulation,
pathogen and assailant protection,
bodily containment and other dynamic
functionsall while rebuilding and
restructuring itself to successfully preserve this cycle of being.
Its also an expressive organ, indicating health status. According
to WebMD, skin problems are often the first signs of serious underly-
ing health problems such as diabetes and lung cancer. On the flip-

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Skin is a hard-
working organ,
so a little help to
reinforce it
couldnt hurt. Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Managing Editor

side, a luminous glow or slight blush generally 2017 SKIN CARE E-BOOK
indicates good health.
Its no wonder why the occasional blemish,
wrinkle or age spot appears: skin is a hard- CONTENTS
working organ. And as such, a little help couldnt
hurt it. Both skin care developers and consum-
ers realize its in our best interests to boost 2 Boosting Skin Strengths
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
skins strengths and reinforce its weaknesses.
Thats where this free Skin Care e-book, spon-
sored by DuPont, Tate & Lyle Bio Products, has
youcovered.
4 Skin Care Slows but
Dermocosmetics and
Here, we present the latest ingredients Naturals Prevail
launched to care for and maintain the skin Global Cosmetic Industry
from acne treatments, antiperspirants and bar-
rier repair agents, to deodorants, moisturizers,
protectants and more. We also include three of 8 Skin Barrier Impaired?
Two TEWLs to Tell
our latest technical articles exploring some of
Ann Den Yi, et al.
the most troubling skin concerns: barrier impair-
ment, acne and skin sensitivity.
If youre as busy as your skin, this free e-book 22 Reaching a Zen-like State in Skin:
is structured to help boost your product develop- Biomimetic Peptide to
ment activities while reinforcing your bottom Balance Sensitivity
line. Download it today. Estelle Loing, Ph.D.

32 Brassica Breakthrough:
Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves
C&T Daily Newsletter
Clinically Effective
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries Murat Trkoglu, et al.
delivered straight to your inbox everyday!

http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter 41 Skin Care Ingredients

C&T Online
56 Skin Care Formulas

Find related content at


www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com 71 Supplier Directory

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Market Intelligence | C&T

KEY POINTS
Growth in the skin care market is anticipated to slow,
although pockets of strength will continue to emerge
in dermocosmetics and naturals.

Seizing and disrupting niche categories


provides new opportunities but depends on the
categorys concentration in a given market.

Skin Care Slows


But Dermocosmetics and Naturals Prevail*

S
*Adapted with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry

entiment on the cosmetic and personal


care industrys performance in 2016 points
to a vibrant color category and anticipates
slowed growth in skin carealthough
with pockets of strength in dermocosmet-
ics and naturals.1 This is not to say the
sector will disappoint; its been on a steady upswing for years and
remains on track for sales amounting to $130 billion by 2019,
accounting for slightly more than one quarter of the total beauty
care industry value, according to the KlineGroup.2

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Business Media.

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Looking ahead even further, Allied Market to personal hygiene and appearance through
Research projects3 the skin care segment will the use of preventative beauty products.
reach $179 billion by 2022, with a CAGR of More consumers are basing purchasing
4.7% from 2016 to 2022. This expected increase decisions on a products wellness priority,
is attributed to a rise in skin care awareness as formulation and prominence in an otherwise
well as the use of advanced and organic skin clutteredmarketplace.1
care products. New market entrants are exploiting this
In fact, the skin care category is positioned scenario with unique offerings and the devel-
in a high-innovation space, as shown by the opment of cross-category and inter-industry
prevailing trends described next, and accounts product innovations. This explains why niche
for 41% of the global volume of personal labels, dermocosmetics and clean label
careingredients.2 products are challenging legacy power brands
as consumers, especially in saturated Western
Product Innovation markets, seek authenticoptions.
Facial care unsurprisingly accounts for the In addition, there has been a prominent rise
largest share of the skin care segment and is in the adoption of organic and herbal-based
experiencing a renaissance, with new anti-aging products such as traditional herbal medicines,
and neurocosmetic treatments, anti-aging natural foods and related herbal skin care prod-
concepts for young consumers and men, the ucts. Manufacturers are leveraging this focus,
growing diversity of masks (bubble, food-based, making moves toward natural and organic
etc.), emerging claims such as anti-pollution formulas or even adding touches to existing
for urban consumers and blue light/infrared products to target a wider range of consumers.5
defense, and a wide array of sensorial ingredi- Niche brands are also driving multi-
ents including clay, charcoal and mud. dimensional formulas in dermocosmetics, with
In the larger scope of skin care, however, the launch of probiotic-based solutions and
consumers desire a combination of benefits in a comeback of traditional remedies such as
multifunctional offerings.2 TCM, Ayurveda and Andean herbal mixtures.
One notable source for cosmetic innova- In response, brand owners may be motivated
tion is nanotechnology, which according to to lobby for regulations or guidelines to
Research and Markets,4 continues to grow. This protect honest solutions from rivals that
is mainly driven by demand for zinc oxide and exaggerate their claims since consumers,
titanium dioxide nanoparticle UVA/B filters in while discerning, generally remain unable to
sun care and sun protection cosmetics, as well make technical distinctions for fully-informed
as anti-aging products utilizing nanocarrier purchasingdecisions.6
deliverysystems.
The use of metal oxide nanoparticles, Active Beauty and Beyond
nanospheres, nanocapsules, nanoemulsions, Beauty players also are exploiting the
functionalized niosomes and liposomes in thriving sportswear arena as the wellness drive
formulas containing actives such as UV filters, extends to fashion. For example, Birchbox
vitamins or antioxidants has become increas- launched the Arrow line in 2016, while Sweat
ingly common, and has lead to improvements Cosmetics specializes in sweat-proof permeable
in the efficacy of sunscreen, anti-aging products mineral makeup. Others, such as Mio Skincare,
and fragrances.4 are more specific to users activities, with lines
such as the Workout Wonders and Liquid Yoga.
Wellness and Health Cut The pursuit of prevention and well-being
Through the Clutter is even driving innovation beyond cosmet-
ics, according to Euromonitor.6 For example,
Evolving consumer patterns across multiple
Burts Bees entered beauty-from-within with
industries are opening new avenues to beauty
protein shakes, while AB-Crew exploited the
players. For example, a holistic approach to
surfacing of athleisure beauty to target active
a healthier lifestyle is being manifested in
consumers with muscle-enhancing and recovery
consumers choices of food, alcohol consump-
topicalsolutions.
tion, sports and exercise, and greater attention

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries |5


Extensions into dermocosmetics
could see an upsurge as brands
expand equity.

Consumer Scrutiny as a Ultimately, a products performance is the


most crucial, and what sets a brand apart may
Source of Novelty in fact, be just how visible its benefits are to the
Aligned with the drive for health and consumer; for example, seeing improvements in
wellness, consumers are more discerning than dark spots, wrinkles and/or acne breakouts.
ever before regarding product formulations.1
As noted, in virtually all categories, legacy Probiotic Skin Care
brands are falling out of favor and being Meanwhile, the personal care market is wit-
replaced by those professing to be natural, nessing the launch of relatively bold concepts,
organic, chemical-free and green; or those that leveraging success achieved in other industries.1
instill a sense of clean living through the use of One example is probiotic-based skin care,
feweringredients. which is inspired by probiotic supplements
This is leading to a new wave of products andyogurts.
under the green/clean label, as demand for natu- U.S. brand Mother Dirt pioneered the first
rally derived ingredients surges and consumers skin care range formulated with live cultures,
are more informed about the origin, processing which is reported to restore the skins bacterial
and overall social and environmental footprint equilibrium. Other niche brands later came to
of a product. the fore, including Esse and Yun Priobiother-
Some consumers even reject products based apy, promising to take skin care to a new level.
on unsustainable ingredients, e.g., those derived Big players are already taking note as they
from limited sources such as the Dead Sea, as seek revenues when opportunities arise. For
eco-friendly products and sustainable sourcing example, Johnson & Johnson announced a
have become more of an expectation.1 partnership with S-Biomedic, a start-up biotech
firm specializing in probiotic cosmetics, and
Visible Benefits has plans to launch its first product, an acne
Can Set You Apart skin recovery solution. Under the agreement,
Claiming to be natural and clean is not S-Biomedic receives help from Johnson &
enough, however, because consumers are not Johnson while supporting the latters skin care
easily convinced. As certain claims such as strategy, which is also geared toward dermocos-
anti-pollution proliferate, brands must stand metics, as evidenced in the 2016 acquisition
out with tangible evidence or they risk being of Neostrata.
dismissed as far-fetched.

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Seizing and Disrupting their equity. This explains LOrals acquisi-
tion of IT Cosmetics and Johnson & Johnsons
Niche Categories acquisition of Neostrata; the latter could raise
Niche brands have motivated several the companys profile in color cosmetics via
acquisitions, such as LOrals purchase of skin-friendlymakeup.
AcneFree, CeraVe and Ambi; or Unilevers string Other hybrid brands such as Glossier, born
of premium skin care acquisitions, including out of an online community blog, and Niod
Murad and Dermalogica. These acquisitions Photography Fluid, a high-tech foundation
show swift efforts on the part of multinationals that Photoshops the wearer, could be up for
to seize ripe opportunities, especially when grabs as big players seek ventures with a unique
segments such as dermocosmetics and doctor proposition to grow and generate fast revenues.
brands remaindynamic.
The scope for niche acquisitions, however, is
References
dependent on a categorys level of concentration
1. GCImagazine.com/business/marketing/How-Beauty-Will-
in a given market. For example, a high concen-
Grow-in-2017-and-Beyond-414901203.html
tration for oral care in Western Europe opens 2. GCImagazine.com/business/rd/ingredients/
up opportunities for niche brands to disrupt the in-cosmetics-Global-Skin-Care-Is-Driving-Actives-Market-
Innovation-and-Growth-419998123.html
category; as with the U.S. subscription-based
3. GCImagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/skincare/
oral care brand Quip. This is similar to Bull- Global-Skin-Care-Products-Market-to-Reach-179-Billion-
dog in the United Kingdom and Dollar Shave by-2022-410540925.html ation-and-Growth-419998123.
html
Club in the United States, which have spurred
4. https://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/3784908/
growth in mens toiletries in their markets and pos-0%20auty-industry.html
hold potential to disrupt elsewhere. 5. Researchandmarkets.com/reports/4228164/
global-skin-care-market-2016-2022#pos-0
In contrast, in a fragmented market sce-
6. Euromonitor.com/niche-segment-rewriting-
nario, such as baby care in Asia-Pacific and the-rules-in-the-beauty-industry-part-ii/
color cosmetics in North America, new entrants report
7. blog.euromonitor.com/2017/05/reimagining-growth-in-the-
have a tougher time disrupting. Thus, the focus
global-beauty-industry.html
should shift toward acquiring niche brands that
facilitate specialization, such as personalized
solutions and uniquely sourced product ingredi-
ents, to maintain the competitive appeal.

Acquisition Targets
Dermocosmetics are set to exert a greater
influence on the beauty industry and additional
opportunities will open up as healthy aging is
placed at the core of consumer lifestyles. This
will be spear-headed by millennials, who put
greater focus on preventative skin care through
the use of facial cleansers, masks and moistur- C&T Online
izers. These segments are anticipated to gain Find related content at
in vigor from 20152020, with global CAGR www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com

prospects of 2.4%, 8.1% and 3.5%, respectively;


exceeding their growth from 20102015.
Facial masks are one category where compa-
nies will seek acquisitions due to the dynamic
outlook of such products and the categorys
prevention-based direction. Probiotic-based C&T Webcasts
skin care brands, such as Mother Dirt, are Find current and upcoming webcasts at
perhaps too new but beauty players will watch www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
them closely over the next few years.
Finally, extensions in the dermocosmetic
arena could see an upsurge as brands expand

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries |7


Testing | C&T

KEY POINTS
It has been proposed that topical treatment
using linoleic acid can repair defective barrier
function in damaged skin.
The present article tests this theory and
compares the results using two types
of TEWL measurements: open and
closedchamber.

Skin Barrier
Impaired? Reproduction in English or any other language of
8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com in English orallwww.duponttateandlyle.com
Reproduction or part
any of language
other this article
of isallstrictly
or partprohibited. 2017Business
of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Allured Media. E-book
Skin Care
2017 Allured Business Media.
Two 'TEWLs' to Tell

Ann Den Yi, Slobodanka Tamburic, Ph.D., Mustafa Varcin,


Caroline Searing and Melissa Chan
London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK

T
newly developed topical products containing
linoleic acid was therefore used in the present
study to assess, via transepidermal water loss
(TEWL), the proposed effects:
The protection potential, whereby the prod-
he lipid matrix of the stratum ucts are applied for a period of time before
corneum (SC), consisting the insult to the skin barrier is carried out;
primarily of ceramides, in this case with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
cholesterol and fatty acids, solution;and
is crucial for the integrity of The repair potential, whereby an insult with
the skin barrier. Linoleic acid SLS to the skin barrier was followed by a
is an essential fatty acid, whose deficiency can period of product application.
lead to abnormal epidermal permeability barrier TEWL: TEWL water loss is the key bio-
function.1, 2 In the case of its deficiency, linoleic engineering parameter to assess skin barrier
acid is replaced with oleic acid, disturbing the impairment and recovery.5 It is known to closely
normal formation of lipid lamellae in theSC.3 reflect the changes in the skin barrier function,
It has been proposed that topical treatment hence it was chosen as the main skin variable
of linoleic acid could repair defective barrier to test in this study. A variety of protocols to
function in detergent-treated skin.1 In addition, assess TEWL exist in the literature, most of them
it has been shown that topical application of fatty based on published guidance documents.6 These
acids in general could alter the intercellular lipid protocols include a strict control of environ-
domains of the SC.4 A range of commercial and mental conditions, specifically the temperature

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries |9


The difficulty in getting
correct measurements lies in the fact
that all TEWL methods measure
the water vapor flux in the air above skin.

and relative humidity, as well as the air flow lines of good laboratory practices. Before the start
duringmeasurements. of the study, each participant signed an informed
The instruments used to measure TEWL can be consent form.
broadly divided in two groups based on open and Open chamber method: As noted, a typical
closed chamber principles. For the present work, a open chamber instrumenta was used. The measur-
typical representative open chamber instrumenta ing head of the probe is a hollow cylinder with a
was used and compared with a relatively new diameter of 10 mm and a height of 20 mm. This
generation of closed chamber instrumentsb. Special contains two sets of sensors for detecting relative
emphasis was placed on their sensitivities to detect humidity and temperature, at different heights. The
small differences in TEWL. A complementary skin data obtained is converted into the flux density of
hydration testc also was carried out. the evaporating water, expressed in g/m2 hr.
The measurement time in this study was set
Materials and Methods to 20 sec. Using proprietary software, the mean
Materials: The anionic detergent SLS ( 99.0% TEWL value from the point of stabilization up to
purity), diluted in distilled water, was used to cause 20 sec was recorded in each case. Before the start
SC barrier impairment.7 A range of commercially of the study, the instrument was calibrated follow-
available and newly formulated products contain- ing manufacturers instructions. The reliability and
ing linoleic acid was used to treat relevant test sites validity of this method, under controlled experi-
and 18 mm Finn chambers and 18 mm filter paper mental conditions, have been widely assessed.8
discs were used as occlusive patches. Closed chamber method: For the closed
Methods: Both studies were carried out per chamber methodb, the measurement chamber is a
Ethics committee approval, following the guide- cylinder with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of
12 mm. The upper end of the probe is closed with
a
Tewameter TM300, Courage & Khazaka a condenser that is maintained at a temperature of
b
AquaFlux AF200, Biox Systems -7.65C, below the freezing temperature of water.
c
Corneometer CM825, Courage & Khazaka When the probe aperture is placed against
the skin, the water vapor emitted from the skin
surface into the closed chamber is removed by its
conversion into ice. An electronic cooler located
in the condenser creates a controlled microclimate
within the chamber, including constant relative
Achieving beautiful skin is no longer confined humidity. Sensors for detecting relative humidity
to makeup or anti-aging creams. Urban and temperature are mounted within the wall
lifestyles in particular are encouraging of the chamber, similarly to the open chamber
consumers to have healthy skin at all times. system. However, the design of the probe enables
TEWL measurements to be made independent of
the external temperature and air movement.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
The closed chamber measurement was
(www.GCImagazine.com)
completed after achieving a steady TEWL reading.
Before the start of the study, the instrument was

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calibrated following manufacturers instructions.
The reliability and validity of this method
have previously been discussed.9

Protection Test
Protocol
Fourteen healthy female
volunteers having a mean age
of 25.6, ranging from 19 to
42 years, participated in
this study. No adverse
reactions were recorded.
The test area was the
volar forearm. Three
test sites of 3 x 3 cm,
separated by 2.5 cm, were
allocated symmetrically
on both inner forearms of
each participant. Regions
near the wrist and flexural
areas of the volar forearm
were avoided. The study
period spanned 14 days.
Three non-invasive mea-
surements were taken in the
following order: open chamber,
closed chamber, then hydration test.
All measurements were carried out in
accordance to the relevant published
guidelines. Baseline measurements were
obtained after a 30-min acclimation at 21C
and 50% relative humidity.
Next, a 14-day supply of test products labelled
as A, B, D, E and F were handed out to each par-
ticipant, along with application instructions and a
customized template showing the allocation of the
products. This allocation among participants was
balanced using the Latin Square Design, where test
site C was the untreated control. Participants were
instructed to apply test products twice daily by
lightly massaging the site until complete absorp-
tion of the product. They returned for additional
measurements after 7 and 14 days.
After collecting the TEWL and corneometer
data on day 14, all test sites were subjected to SLS
treatment under occlusion. A 200-L aliquot of
freshly made 5% w/v SLS was transferred on the
round piece of filter paper, fitting into the 18 mm-
Finn chamber. One Finn chamber was applied
to each of six test sites, where it remained for

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 11


30min. After removal of the SLS patches, the test dorsal forearms, on which four test sites of 3 x 3cm,
areas were rinsed using running water and gently separated by 2.5 cm, were allocated symmetrically.
blotted with a tissue. The sites remained uncovered The study duration was 16 days.
and exposed to air for 1 hr prior to the final set After obtaining baseline measurements,
ofmeasurements. researchers fitted all sites with 18-mm Finn cham-
bers. Seven of them contained 200 L of 1.25%w/v
Repair Test Protocol SLS, while test site C was covered by a filter disc
Thirteen healthy female volunteers having soaked with 200 L of distilled water. The occlusion
a mean age 25.4, ranging from 20 to 42 years, lasted 24 hr, during which time participants were
participated in this study. The test areas were both advised to refrain from vigorous activities and to

Table 1. Mean TEWL Values (n = 14) of Inner Forearm Using Open Chamber

Untreated,
Time (weeks) A B D E F
control skin (C)
0 6.3 1.8 5.9 1.1 6.9 1.7 7.3 2.6 6.9 2.7 7.1 1.6
1 7.6 1.8 7.5 2.1 7.1 2.3 7.1 2.2 7.3 2.6 7.3 2.8
Tbefore SLS 7.5 2.3 7.3 2.8 7.7 2.1 7.6 2.4 7.3 2.5 6.9 2.6
Tafter SLS 8.2 2.8 8.4 2.9 8.3 2.7 8.2 3.0 8.1 2.7 7.9 2.4

Measurements taken at baseline (week 0), after product treatment (week 1, week 2 Tbefore SLS) and after irritation with SLS (week 2 Tafter
SLS) for treated (A, B, D, E, F) and untreated (C) skin; results expressed in g/m2 hr (mean SD) as measured by open chambera

Figure 1. Mean TEWL values obtained in study 1 using open chamber;


error bars represent SD

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Some deviations were
not due to the measuring
method but to differences
in skin physiology among
participants and sites.

shield the test sites against wetting. They were was chosen. The data was plotted on graphsd as the
instructed to remove the SLS patches from the skin mean SD; all statistical calculations were made
at a designated time and to expose the skin to air using softwaree.
for at least 1 hr after the patch wasremoved.
Skin measurements were carried out 24 hr after Results: Open Chamber,
patch removal, as suggested by Friebe et al.7 Fol- Study 1
lowing measurements after SLS damage, all sites The TEWL values measured on inner forearms
were treated with test products except two: site C at different time points are shown in Table 1 and
as a positive control (undamaged) and site H as a Figure 1, while Table 2 presents the results of
negative control (damaged with SLS). Participants the statistical analysis of the data. As expected,
were given a two-week supply and customized after exposure to 5% SLS for 30 min, a statistically
templates, as in study 1, and asked to use test significant increase in TEWL was observed at
products twice daily for two weeks. Final measure- week2 (Tafter SLS), compared with baseline values
ments were completed on day 16 of the study. on all test sites (A-F) (p = 0.001). However, no
statistically significant differences were found in
Statistical Analysis TEWL between the different test sites (p = 0.99),
Results were evaluated using analysis of indicating no differences among the test products.
variance (ANOVA) followed by Tukey HSD test
for paired differences, with a 95% family-wise d
Microsoft Excel 2010
confidence level. A significance level of p < 0.05 e
R version 3.0.2 for Windows

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 13


Table 2. Comparison of Variances in TEWL

Levels of significance among the time points


wk 0 vs. wk 0 vs. wk 0 vs. wk 1 vs. wk 1 vs. wk 21 vs.
Time (weeks)
wk 1 wk 21 wk 22 wk 21 wk 22 wk 22
p 0.44 0.35 0.001* 1 0.1 0.14

Variances among baseline values (week 0), values after product treatment (week 1, week 21) and values after skin irritation with SLS
(week 22), using a 2-way ANOVA followed by Tukey HSD pairwise comparison test (*p < 0.05)

Table 3. Mean TEWL Values (n = 14) of Inner Forearm Using Closed Chamber

Untreated,
Time (weeks) A B D E F control skin
(C)
10.245 10.620 10.305 10.736 10.628 10.779
0
2.401 2.813 2.153 2.696 2.743 2.899
12.172 12.113 11.404 11.354 11.853 12.111
1
3.133 4.127 3.190 3.078 4.499 4.717
12.349 11.812 11.906 11.729 12.055 11.665
Tbefore SLS
3.123 3.505 3.776 3.196 3.436 3.476
15.867 15.450 15.040 15.199 15.111 14.705
Tafter SLS
4.509 4.726 4.497 4.591 4.184 4.023
Measurements taken at baseline (week 0), after product treatment (week 1, week 2 Tbefore SLS) and after irritation with SLS
(week 2 Tafter SLS) for treated (A, B, D, E, F) and untreated (C) skin; results are expressed in g/m2 hr (mean SD) as measured by
closedchamberb

Results: Closed Chamber, among the test products, but no differences


Study 1 between the test products and the untreated
Table 3 and Figure 2 show the TEWL values control. Therefore, study 1 TEWL measurements
obtained by closed chamber. While standard failed to show the protection potential of these
deviations were of the same order as with the open testproducts.
chamber, ANOVA analysis showed three sets of
statistically significant data: TEWL values at base- Results: Skin Hydration,
line, week 1 and week 2 before the irritation with Study 1
SLS, compared to week 2 after SLS (see Table 4). Figure 3 illustrates the changes in hydration
Again, no statistically significant differences values of each test site at different time points.
were found in TEWL between different test sites A statistically significant increase in skin hydra-
(p= 0.99; calculations not shown). These two sets tion at week 1 compared to baseline values was
of non-significant results, i.e., open and closed detected. After irritation with SLS on week 2, skin
chamber studies, indicate not only no differences hydration was drastically decreased, with statisti-

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Figure 2. Mean TEWL values obtained in study 1 using a closed chamber; error bars
represent SD

Table 4. Comparison of Variances in Baseline TEWL Values

Levels of significance among the time points


wk 0 vs. wk 0 vs. wk 0 vs. wk 1 vs. wk 1 vs. wk 21 vs.
Time (weeks)
wk 1 wk 21 wk 22 wk 21 wk 22 wk 22
p 0.11 0.08 0.000* 0.1 0.000* 0.000*

Measurements after product treatment (week 1, week 21) and after irritation with SLS (week 22) in TEWL using a 2-way ANOVA followed
by Tukey HSD pairwise comparison test (*p < 0.05)

cally significant changes (p = 0.001) compared exposure to 1.25% SLS for 24 hr and subsequent
to baseline values, week 1 and week 2 before SLS stabilization for another 24 hr, a highly statisti-
irritation. However, no statistically significant cally significant increase was found in TEWL on
differences were found in skin hydration among day 2 compared to baseline values, as expected.
the test sites(p = 0.520). No statistically significant differences were found
in TEWL on day 16 compared with baseline
Results: Open Chamber, values (p = 0.360), which indicated a successful
Study 2 barrierrecovery.
Figure 4 shows the TEWL values measured The negative control site H, which was not
on dorsal forearms at different time points. After treated with product after the SLS damage,

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 15


Figure 3. Mean skin hydration values at different time points; error bars represent SD.
The hydration of the skin was significantly reduced after irritation with SLS. Results are
expressed in relative corneometer units (rcu) as means with standard deviations.

Figure 4. Mean TEWL values obtained in study 2 using open chamber

Measurements (t02) conducted 24 hr after the removal of SLS patches showed a highly significant increase in TEWL values
on all test sites, except the water-treated site. Results are given in mean SD; symbol * indicates significant difference to the
preceding set of values (p < 0.05).

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Figure 5. Mean TEWL values obtained in study 2 using closed chamber

Measurements (t02) conducted 24 hr after the removal of SLS patches showed a highly significant increase in TEWL values
on all test sites, except the water-treated site. Results are given in mean SD; symbol * indicates significant difference to the
preceding set of values (p < 0.05).

Figure 6. Mean skin hydration values at different time points

T02 = values measured 24 hr after the SLS patch removal; t16 = values measured after 14 days of treatment; symbol * indicates
significant difference to the preceding set of values (p < 0.05); t16 values were also significantly different from baseline values (t0)

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 17


performed similarly to the
treated sites, demonstrating the
power of skins natural barrier
recovery. No statistically sig-
nificant differences were found on
site C (treated with the water patch)
throughout the study, although an
increase in TEWL was found on day 2.

Results: Closed
Chamber, Study 2
Figure 5 shows the mean TEWL values
measured on the dorsal forearms at different time
points using the condenser-chamber measuring
method. It yielded the same statistical conclusions as
the open chamber method between day 2 and baseline
values (p < 0.05), and between day 2 and day 16 in all
SLS-damaged test sites (p < 0.05). No statistically significant
differences were found in TEWL on day 16 compared with the
baseline values (p = 0.23).
The same conclusions as the open chamber measurements were
drawn from the data obtained on control site C throughout the study.
The results obtained in study 2 indicate the two methods used possess
similar sensitivity when measuring relatively large differences in TEWL.

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TEWL is the diffusion of water through
skin to its surface but measurements
are taken above skin, making accurate
detection difficult.

Results: Skin Hydration, comparison with the closed chamber one.


Instrument considerations: Being an open
Study 2 cylinder, the probe of the open chamber instru-
Figure 6 shows SC hydration values measured ment possesses natural ventilation, which enables
on the dorsal forearms at different time points. it to measure the condensed water flux with good
After exposure to SLS, a highly significant increase accuracy.12 However, its design makes it sensitive
was found in skin hydration on day 2 compared to ambient air movements, which is a known
with baseline values in all SLS-damaged test sites difficulty with the open chamber method. In the
(A, B, D, E, F, G and H; p = 0.000). Also, a highly present study, great care was taken to avoid any air
statistically significant decrease was found in skin movement during the measurement, but no special
hydration on day 16, after 2 weeks of product shielding of the probe was made. In addition, care
treatment, compared to day 2, as well as on day 16, was taken to keep the temperature of the probe
compared with the baseline values (p < 0.05). constant by holding the probe in contact with the
No significant difference was found on control skin for 20 sec before the value was taken.
site C, treated with water patches throughout the In contrast, the closed chamber eliminates
study. Also, no statistically significant differences the effects of air movement. For such a system
were found in skin hydration between different test to function accurately, however, the increasing
sites at different time points on day 16 (p = 0.85), amount of water vapor must be removed from the
indicating that natural recovery mechanism was as microenvironment. In the condenser-chamber
efficient as the applied treatments. method used here, this is achieved by trapping
water molecules as ice on an electronically cooled
Discussion condenser opposite the measurement orifice.13
It is widely accepted that TEWL measurements The condenser provides the added benefit of
reflect the integrity of the skin barrier function maintaining constant and defined humidity at the
and correlate well with its impairment.10, 11 In skin surface, independent on the external environ-
physical terms, TEWL is the flux of condensed ment. In addition, the instrument uses a precise
water diffusing through the skin, from inside the gravimetric calibration,14 which is altogether an
body to the surface.9 The difficulty in getting cor- advantageous TEWL method. Indeed, when com-
rect measurements lies in the fact that all TEWL pared in terms of intrinsic measurement sensitivity
methods measure the water vapour flux in the air with another type of open chamber instrumentf,
above the skin. the closed chamber approach was found to be
The measured flux depends on two key factors: ~40% more sensitive.13
1) the rate of supply of water to the skin surface This work aimed to compare the sensitivity
(biological factor) and 2) the rate of evaporation of of the two methods under the conditions of an
water from the skin surface (microclimate factor). in vivo volunteer study, and to draw practical
It is essential for the biological factor, not the conclusions for further use. It was found that the
microclimate factor, to determine the measured standard deviations (SDs) obtained by the two
TEWLa requirement achieved in different ways
in the case of the open chamber approach, in f
Evaporimeter EP3, Servo Med, Sweden

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 19


instruments were of the same order (see Tables 1 hydrating effect found in study 2 was due to the
and 3), leading to the conclusion that their large swelling of corneocytes caused by prolonged
sizes were not due to the measuring method, but contact with SLS and an increased water supply
to the differences in skin physiology among differ- via TEWL.20, 21 The subsequent decrease in skin
ent participants and different skin sites. hydration after two weeks of topical treatment is
Given the large SD values obtained, it was not thus proposed to be an exsiccation effect, caused
surprising that most ANOVA calculations did not by damage to the corneocytes.20
produce significant differences, except when the
skin was SLS-damaged (see Tables 2 and 4). How- Conclusion
ever, the condenser-chamber instrument produced In the present work, the open chamber results
two additional sets of significantly different TEWL of study 1 showed a significant increase in TEWL
results in study 1, showing that all TEWL measure- between the baseline and after SLS application
ments before the SLS damage were different from in week 2, as expected, but no significance was
those obtained after 30 min of contact with SLS. detected between weeks or among test samples.
No such differences between methods were found The closed chamber results revealed two addi-
in study 2, where the SLS damage was higher and tional sets of significantly different data, showing a
the rate of recovery more pronounced (see Figures higher sensitivity.
4 and5). In the second study, where barrier impairment
Test product considerations: Interesting was higher due to a 24-hour occlusive treatment,
results were obtained in both studies in terms of both methods resulted in the same statistical
the efficacy of the test products. Not only were conclusions. Interestingly, no statistically signifi-
no significant differences revealed among the test cant difference was found two weeks after barrier
products by either of the TEWL methods, but no damage between untreated sites and those treated
differences were found between the products and with the test samples, indicating the natural barrier
the untreated control sites (see Figures 1 and 2). recovery of damaged healthy skin was efficient.
It is known that when the barrier function The results of this study indicate the closed
is disrupted, the activated homeostatic process chamber method possesses a higher sensitivity
increases lipid synthesis in the lamellar bodies in than the open chamber method when dealing with
order to accelerate SC repair.15 In general, topi- smaller differences in TEWL. It produced a higher
cal application of suitable products can enhance number of statistically significant findings under
this process. However, the application of some the same experimental conditions. However, when
lipid mixtures after barrier disruption have been larger variations in TEWL were detected between
found to delay this recovery.16 Furthermore, the test sites, the findings obtained by the open
correct molar ratio of the lipid mixture is recom- chamber method were consistent with the closed
mended for optimal results,15 so it is possible the chamber findings.
test products did not achieve the required optimal
molar ratio. Hence, the barrier recovery was not References
enhanced in relation to the skins naturalprocesses. 1. PM Elias, BE Brown and VA Ziboh, The permeability barrier
Skin hydration: Regarding the observed in essential fatty acid deficiency: Evidence for a direct role
for linoleic acid in barrier function, J Inves Derm 74 230-3
skin hydration changes, an expected decrease (1980)
after 30 min of skin exposure to SLS occurred in 2. KR Feingold and PM, The environmental interface: Regula-
study 1 (see Figure 3). It is known that a dam- tion of permeability barrier homeostasis, in M Loden and
aged skin barrier leads to an increase in TEWL, HI Maibach, eds, Dry Skin and moisturizers: Chemistry and
Function, Boca Raton, FL, CRC Press (2000)
which results in a lower water content in the SC.17
3. KR Feingold, The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous
However, in study2, the large increase in skin permeability barrier homeostatis, J Lipid Res 48 2531-2546
hydration found 24 hr after the SLS patch removal (2007)

(see Figure 5) was somewhatsurprising. 4. BJ Aungst, The influence of fatty acids and fatty alcohols on
skin permeability, in M Loden and HI Maibach, eds, Dry Skin
It is known that increased hydration levels and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, Boca Raton, FL,
in skin are due to an occlusive effect of the Finn CRC Press (2000)
chamber18 but literature indicates this effect lasts 5. KA Grice, Transepidermal water loss, in A Jarrett, ed, The
Physiology and Pathophysiology of the Skin, Academic
approximately 20 min.19 It is therefore likely this Press, London (1980) pp 21162146

20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


6. V Rogiers and the EEMCO Group, EEMCO guidance for the
assessment of transepidermal water loss in cosmetic sciences,
Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 14 117128 (2001)
7. K Friebe, I Effendy, and H Loffler, Effects of skin occlusion in patch
testing with sodium lauryl sulfate, Brit J Dermatol 148, 65-69
(2003)
8. C Rosado, P Pinto and LM Rodrigues, Comparative assessment
of the performance of two generations of Tewameter: TM210 and
TM300, Intl J Cosm Sci 27 237-241 (2005)
9. RE Imhof, MEP De Jesus, P Xiao, LI Ciortea and EP Berg, Closed-
chamber transepidermal water loss measurement: Microclimate,
calibration and performance, Intl J Cosm Sci 31 97-118 (2009)
10. M Willoughby and HI Maibach, Cutaneous biometrics and claims
support, in LB Austed, Cosmetic Claims Substantiation, New
York, Marcel Dekker (1998)
11. KP Wilhelm, G Freitag and HH Wolff, Surfactant-induced skin
irritation and skin repair. Evaluation of the acute human irritation
model by noninvasive techniques, J Am Acad Dermatol 30 944-
999 (1994)
12. J Nuutinen, Measurement of transepidermal water loss by closed-
chamber systems, in J Serup, GBE Jemec and GLGrove, eds,
Handbook of Non-invasive Methods and the Skin, 2nd edn, Boca
Raton, CRC Taylor & Francis (2006)
13 RE Imhof, EP Berg, RP Chilcott, LI Ciortea, FC Pascut and PXiao,
New instrument for measuring water vapour flux density from
arbitrary surfaces, IFSCC Magazine 5(4) 297-301 (2002)
14. P Xiao, W Wong, AM Cottenden and RE Imhof, In vivo stratum
corneum over-hydration and water diffusion coefficient measure-
ments using opto-thermal radiometry and TEWL instruments, Int J
Cos Sci 34(4) 328-331 (2012)
15. M Denda, Role of lipids in skin barrier function, in T Forster, ed,
Cosmetic Lipids and the Skin Barrier, New York, Marcel Dekker
(2002)
16. MQ Man, KR Feingold and PM Elias, Exogenous lipids influence
permeability barrier recovery in acetone-treated murine skin, Arch
Dermatol 129 728-738 (1993)
17. K De Paepe, D Roseeuw and V Rogiers, Repair of acetone and
sodium lauryl sulfate-damaged human skin barrier function using
topically applied emulsions containing barrier lipids, JEADV 16
587-94 (2002)
18. H Zhai and HI Maibach, Occlusion and barrier function, in HZhai,
KP Wilhelm, HI Maibach, eds, Marzulli and Maibachs Dermato-
toxicology, 7th edn, Boca Raton, CRC Taylor & Francis (2008)
19. T Agner and J Serup, Time course of occlusive effects on skin
evaluated by measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL):
Including patch tests with sodium lauryl sulfate and water, Cont
Derm 28 6-9 (1993)
20. M Gloor, B Senger, M Langenauer and J Fluhr, On the course of
the irritant reaction after irritation with sodium lauryl sulfate, Skin
Res Technol 10 144-148 (2004)
21. R Darlenski and JW Fluhr, Moisturizers and emollients, in JWFluhr,
ed, Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing, Heidelberg, Springer
(2011)

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Testing | C&T

KEY POINTS
Inspired by nature, biomimetic peptides are
potent allies in skin care.

Zen
This paper identifies palmitoyl tripeptide-8
as an effective modulator of neurogenic
inflammation and provides clinical evidence
of its protective and soothing activities in
sensitized skin.

Reaching a

-like State in Skin

Reproduction in English or any other language of


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or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017 Skin Care E-book
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. 2017
2017 Allured Allured
Business Business Media.
Media.
Biomimetic Peptide to
Balance Sensitivity
Estelle Loing, Ph.D.
IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Qubec (Qubec), Canada

S kin sensitivity is a
common complaint
among consumers.
The prevalence of
this condition in
Europe, Japan and
the United States is approximately 50% in
women and 40% in men.1 Sensitive skin
is prone to itching, stinging, tingling and
burning sensations. These may be triggered
by external factorse.g., UV radiation, cold,
heat, wind, pollutants, chemicals, cosmetics,
The French expression, Avoir les nerfs
fleur de peau, poetically describes how
nerves may convey emotion to the edge
of skin. Nerve cells do so by releasing
neuromediators such as substance P (SP),
which acts on both the vascular bed to cause
vasodilation and increase permeability,
and on skin cells to promote the release
of pro-inflammatory cytokines including
some interleukins (IL-1 and IL-8) and tumor
necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-a). This leads to
skin edema and redness in a process called
diet, alcohol, et ceteraor internal factors neurogenic inflammation.3 In sensitive skin,
such as stress, emotions and hormones. inflammation tends to sustain itself in a situ-
No clear pathophysiological definition ation that, if not addressed properly, leads
for skin sensitivity has yet been given. The to more severe skin problems and causes
underlying mechanisms do not appear to be premature aging.
primary immunologic or allergic in nature. The skin has its own way to deal with
Altered barrier function is sometimes present neurogenic inflammation. It may fight
in affected subjects but this is not a univer- back by locally producing the neuropeptide
sal finding. On the other hand, commonly a-melanocyte stimulating hormone (a-MSH).
reported abnormal sensations point to the This decapeptide results from the post-
involvement of the neurological system.2 translational processing of the pro-hormone

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 23


The biomimetic peptide described is derived
from POMC, a natural precursor of various
physiological neuromediators.

molecule proopiomelanocortin (POMC) itself, a In vitro keratinocyte studies: Keratinocytes


precursor of many biologically active peptides. derived from normal human skin (NCTC 2544)
a-MSH was first known for its pigment- were UVB-irradiated (230 mJ/cm2) to induce
inducing action on melanocytes through the an irritation response, then incubated for
binding of melanocortin receptors on these 24hr in the presence or absence of palmitoyl
cells. Additional studies have revealed a broad tripeptide-8 (10-7 M and 10-9 M) or a-MSH (10-11
anti-inflammatory effect of a-MSH apparently M), as the positive control. The release of IL-8
mediated by a modulation of nuclear factor was quantified in cell culture media using the
k-b activity (NF-kb). More recently, this anti- enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA).
inflammatory activity has been pinned down to In vitro fibroblast studies: Non-confluent
specific peptide fragments of a-MSH that do not normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) were
elicit significant melanogenic activity.4 treated for 24 hr with IL-1 (0.1 ng/mL), as an
In relation, the present paper explores the inducer of IL-8 production, in the presence or
anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation activi- absence of palmitoyl tripeptide-8 (10-7 M) or
ties of a biomimetic lipopeptide derived from a-MSH (10-11 M), as the positive control. Again,
POMC: Palmitoyl tripeptide-8a. the release of IL-8 was quantified in cell culture
media using the enzyme-linked immunosorbent
In Vitro Materials and assay (ELISA).
Methods Ex vivo protocol: Four human skin speci-
mens were obtained from patients undergoing
Ingredient: Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is a three-
plastic surgery (Caucasian women, 3545 years
amino acid biomimetic lipopeptide derived
old). Explants were maintained in culture for
from POMC. POMC is a natural precursor of
24 hr in the presence of SP (10-5 M), to mimic
various neuromediators with important roles
inflammation, with or without palmitoyl
in skin physiology including anti-inflammatory
tripeptide-8 (10-7 M). Explants were then fixed
activities. Although not illustrated in the present
and embedded in paraffin. Thick sections
paper, palmitoyl tripeptide-8 did not elicit
of 5m were stained with hematoxylin and
melanogenic activity at the concentrations used
eosin in preparation for capillary size and
in the anti-inflammatory/anti-irritation studies
edemaevaluation.
described here.
Capillary size evaluation: Morphometric
a
Neutrazen (INCI: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8), IFF/Lucas Meyer analyses of blood vessels were performed on
Cosmetics stained skin sections. Vessels presenting with an
increased lumen were counted and results were
expressed as a percentage of total vessel counts.
The global online beauty and personal care Additionally, the surface (m) occupied by the
market will grow at a CAGR of 16.70% lumen of vessels was measured to evaluate the
from 2016-2020. The rise in demand for mean skin surface occupied by capillaries.
dermocosmetic products will be a key trend. Skin edema evaluation: Edema was evalu-
ated histologically on the papillary dermis and
upper part of the reticular dermis in perivas-
Source: BusinessWire
cular localizations. Edema is characterized by
increased spacing between collagen bundles.
Visual scoring was performed by two dermatolo-

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gists in a double-blind manner, using a 10 normal skin participated in a study for skin
Olympus objective. Four slides per skin speci- soothing effects. On Day 0, single patches
men were scored for each treatment. Scores containing 250 L of an aqueous 0.5% SDS solu-
ranged from 0 (negative) to 4 (maximum), as tion were applied for 24 hr on separate areas of
follows: No edema = 0; slight edema = 1; moder- the volar side of the forearm. On Day 1, patches
ate edema = 2; marked edema = 3; and severe were removed. On Day 2, subjects applied a
edema = 4. placebo or test formula (same Formula 1) con-
taining 4 10-6 M palmitoyl tripeptide-8 three
Clinical Study Protocols times daily for two days (Day 2 to Day 4). On
Preventing irritation: Eight volunteers of an Day 4, skin temperatures were measured using
average age of 42.1 years old with normal skin thermovision on all test areas and images were
participated in a skin irritation prevention study. taken using a video microscope.
Subjects applied a placebo or test formula (see
Formula 1) containing palmitoyl tripeptide-8
Results: Keratinocytes and
(4 x 10-6 M) three times daily for eight days on Fibroblasts
separate areas of the volar side of the forearm As the first step in evaluating palmitoyl
(Day -8 to Day 0). tripeptide-8 to modulate inflammation, in vitro
On Day 0, single patches containing 250L experiments were conducted with keratinocytes
of an aqueous 0.5% sodium dodecyl sulfate and fibroblasts to assess the effects of the
(SDS) solution were applied for 24 hr. On peptide on the production of pro-inflammatory
Day1, all patches were removed. On Day 2, skin cytokines by these cells.
temperature was measured using thermovision Keratinocytes: In the skin, keratinocytes
on all test areas and images were taken using a are generally the first cells to be challenged
video microscope. Thermovision measures skin by external stimuli. They respond to external
surface temperature by recording thermal heat aggressions such as UV by producing cytokines
emissions. This provides quantitative informa- including IL-8 that serve as messengers.6
tion on the status of inflammation in the skin.5 Cytokines act through specific receptors found
Used in combination with photodocumentation at the surface of various cell types, including
(video microscope), the two methods give a neat immune cells, making them powerful mediators
estimation of inflammatory skin responses. of inflammation. Cytokine-driven inflammatory
Soothing irritation: A total of 13 volunteers reactions are a major cause of skin erythema
of an average age of 42.1 years old having (redness) and edema (swelling). Alterations

Formula 1. Gel-crme Test Formula

Water (aqua) 58.88% w/w


Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.60
PEG-8 5.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben 0.80
Glyceryl Stearate 5.00
Cetyl Alcohol 2.00
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00
Paraffinum Liquidum 4.00
Parfum 0.02
TEA 0.70
Water (aqua) qs
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 (Neutrazen, IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.0005

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 25


in cutaneous and systemic immunity also presence of a-MSH, which served as a positive
occur due to UV-induced inflammation and control in this experiment. Such data supports
cytokineproduction. palmitoyl tripeptide-8 as an efficient inhibitor
Here, in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes, of UVB-induced cytokine-mediated cutaneous
palmitoyl tripeptide-8 dose-dependently inflammation.
inhibited IL-8 production. Inhibition reached Fibroblasts: Although keratinocytes produce
-32% when the peptide was used at a concen- IL-8 when activated by external stimuli, their
tration of 10-7 M (see Figure 1, top). This was production is usually low. By contrast, dermal
comparable to the inhibition observed in the fibroblasts generate 100 to 1,000 times more
IL-8 than keratinocytes
when stimulated by
IL-1.7 IL-1 is released
by activated keratino-
cytes when the skin
is challenged and this
mobilizes fibroblasts
to produce additional
IL-8. IL-1-driven
IL-8 production
therefore represents
a potent pathway for
the amplification of
inflammatory signals.
In IL-1 treated
fibroblasts, palmitoyl
tripeptide-8 inhibited
IL-8 production more
potently than a-MSH,
which served as the
positive control. Inhi-
bition reached -64%
when the peptide was
used at a concentration
of 10-7 M (see Fig-
ure1, bottom). This
data confirmed that
palmitoyl tripeptide-8
has the potential to act
as a strong modulator
of pro-inflammatory
cytokine production in
skincells.

Results:
Vasodilation
and Edema
To document the
effects of palmitoyl
tripeptide-8 on neu-
rogenic inflammation
Figure 1. In vitro modulation of pro-inflammatory cytokines in the skin, additional
experiments were

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Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 may be useful to
prevent and sooth irritated skin and restore
a normal skin sensitivity threshold.

conducted using skin explants exposed to SP. right). These results demonstrate palmitoyl
The latter is a neuropeptide released by nerves tripeptide-8 can inhibit microvascular vasodila-
and inflammatory cells during inflammation. tion in the skin.
SP, acting through selective receptors, increases Edema: In SP treated skin explants, the
vascular permeability, causing local redness formation of edema appeared as an increase in
(erythema) and swelling (edema). SP also trig- white spaces between bundles of collagen (see
gers the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines Figure 2, lower left). The addition of palmitoyl
including IL-1 and IL-8 by keratinocytes and tripeptide-8 during SP treatment, though,
fibroblasts.8-10 significantly inhibited the phenomena by -60%,
Vasodilation: As shown in Figure 2 (left), which was an improvement even over the
topical application of SP induced vasodilation, control (see Figure 2, lower right). Such results
increasing the number and size of dilated capil- demonstrate palmitoyl tripeptide-8 can reduce
laries in the superficial dermis of skin explants. edema in skin.
However, these effects were significantly
reduced in the presence of palmitoyl tripep- Results: Clinical Studies
tide-8. Inhibition reached -30% for the number The potential of palmitoyl tripeptide-8 to
of dilated capillaries (not shown) and -51% for prevent and stop skin inflammation and irrita-
the size of dilated vessels (see Figure 2, upper tion under real-life conditions was assessed by

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 27


clinical studies. For this purpose, as noted, the challenge was reduced an average of -78% when
skin of human volunteers was challenged with palmitoyl tripeptide-8 was applied afterward to
SDS 0.5%, an ionic surfactant known to be a sooth skin. Placebo results were not significantly
skin irritant. Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 was applied different from the data obtained with SDS (not
to the skin before or after the SDS challenge, shown). Again, photographs documented a
and skin inflammation and irritation were docu- neat reduction of SDS-induced redness when
mented trough thermovision measurements palmitoyl tripeptide-8 was applied to the skin
andimaging. (Figure4, bottom right) post-challenge. A typi-
Preventive: As shown in Figure 3 (upper cal result is shown here.
right), when palmitoyl tripeptide-8 was applied
to prevent irritation, the increase in skin Conclusions
temperature caused by the SDS challenge Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is a biomimetic
was reduced an average of -112%, or down to active derived from a neuropeptide with known
baseline level. Placebo results were not signifi- anti-inflammatory activity. It is shown here to
cantly different from the data obtained with modulate the production of pro-inflammatory
SDS (not shown). Photographs also documented cytokines by skin cells, which is key to stopping
a neat prevention of SDS-induced redness when the initiation of inflammatory cascades that con-
palmitoyl tripeptide-8 was applied to the skin tribute to modifications of the microvasculature
(Figure 3, bottom right) before the challenge. A and lead to edema and redness in sensitive skin.
typical result is shown here. Palmitoyl tripeptide-8 also successfully
Soothing: In Figure 4 (upper right), the prevented and alleviated irritation and inflam-
increase in temperature caused by the SDS mation in chemically-challenged but otherwise

Figure 2. Ex vivo inhibition of neurogenic inflammation

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Figure 3. In vivo skin irritation study: Preventive action

Figure 4. In vivo skin irritation study: Soothing action

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 29


normal skin. It may therefore be useful in both 6. A Grandjean-Laquerriere et al, Contribution of protein kinase
A and protein kinase C pathways in ultraviolet B-induced
preventive and soothing care to help restore and IL-8 expression by human keratinocytes, Cytokine 29(5)
maintain a normal skin sensitivity threshold. 197-207 (2005)
The ingredient is well-indicated for formulations 7. IL Boxman et al, Role of fibroblasts in the regulation of pro-
aimed at reducing skin irritation caused by UV, inflammatory interleukin IL-1, IL-6 and IL-8 levels induced
by keratinocyte-derived IL-1, Arch Dermatol Res 288(7)
immune reactions, internal stress or mechanical 391-398 (1996)
stress, returning sensitive skin to a peaceful, 8. JY Liu et al, Effect of matrine on the expression of sub-
zen-like state. stance P receptor and inflammatory cytokines production in
human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts, Int Immunophar-
macol 7(6) 816-823 (2007)
References 9. MC Branchet-Gumila et al, Neurogenic modifications
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30 (suppl 1) 2-8 (2016) skin as a neuroimmunoendocrine organ, Physiol Rev 86(4)
3. D Roosterman et al, Neuronal control of skin function: The 1309-1379 (2006)
skin as a neuroimmunoendocrine organ, Physiol Rev 86(4)
1309-1379 (2006)
4. TA Luger and T Brzoska, alpha-MSH related peptides: A
new class of anti-inflammatory and immunomodulating C&T Webcasts
drugs, Ann Rheum Dis 66 (suppl 3) iii 52-55 (2007) Find current and upcoming webcasts at
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rapid, quantitative and noninvasive method for evaluation
of inflammation response in different anatomical regions of
rats, Biomed Res Int I972535 1-9 (2015)

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Pure performance.
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Formulating | C&T

KEY POINTS
While there are numerous topical and systemic
treatments for acne, antibiotic resistance and
toxic interactions are a challenge.

This article explores the clinical efficacy of


a Brassica oleracea blend as an alternative
topical acne treatment.

B. oleracea var. italica (broccoli) was tested in a blend for clinical efficacy against acne.

Reproduction in English or any other language of


32 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com allwww.duponttateandlyle.com
or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol.2017
132, Skin
No. 4Care
| April 2017
E-book
2017 Allured Business Media.
Brassica
Breakthrough
Herbal Anti-acne Alternative Proves
Clinically Effective

Murat Trkoglu and Cihat Dndar


Biota R&D Center, Sancaktepe, Istanbul, Turkey
Erkin Pekmezci
Gzde-Ksla Hospital, Dermatology Department, Malatya, Turkey

A
upper arms. Women are more affected than
men and 75-95% of teenagers will experience
acne. Acne may also begin during the adult
years and approximately 12% of women
cne is one of the and 3% of men will have acne until their
most common mid-forties.3
multifactorial chronic Although acne lacks the urgency of a
inflammatory diseases life-threatening condition, without impairing
of the pilosebaceous overall fitness, it produces long-term ramifi-
follicle. It involves cations, which can be momentous, causing
androgen-induced sebaceous hyperplasia, cutaneous and emotional scars that last a
altered follicular keratinization, hormonal lifetime. It hampers an individuals confidence,
imbalance, immune hypersensitivity and causing physical, social and psychologi-
bacterial (Propionibacterium acnes) coloni- cal suffering and reduces self-esteem with
zation.1 Clinical features include oily skin, the increased emotional distress caused by
non-inflammatory lesions, i.e., open and perceived disfigurement.1
closed comedones, and inflammatory lesions In terms of pathogenesis, four key com-
(papules and pustules).2 More severe acne may ponents of acne development are influenced
cause deep inflammatory nodules, cysts and by androgens: 1) excessive sebum production
even fistular tracts, in addition to significant and follicular plugging; 2) enlargement of the
permanent scarring. sebaceous glands and development of micro-
Acne is most commonly present on the face comedones; 3) inflammatory process triggered
but can also affect the neck, chest, back and by P. acnes in microcomedones; and 4) further

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 33


New acne treatments must be developed to
balance efficacy with excellent tolerability.
This will ensure patient adherence
and good clinical outcomes.

inflammation from the released cytotoxic and developed to balance good anti-acne efficacy
chemotactic agents.3 with excellent tolerability; this will ensure
In terms of severity grades, acne can be patient adherence and, by extension, positive
categorized from mild or moderate to severe. clinical outcomes.5
Mild acne typically comprises open and closed Plant-based preparations can serve as
comedones (< 20) and inflammatory lesions therapeutic alternatives, potentially safer
(<15) of less than 30 in total. Likewise, in mod- choices or in some cases, as the only effective
erate acne, numerous papules and pustules are treatment.6 Therefore, an increasing tendency
observed along with comedones (20-100) and is to try natural alternative remedies.1, 7 Newly
inflammatory lesions (15-50), with total lesions developing natural therapies include naturally
ranging form 30-125. Severe acne is diagnosed derived drugs from active plant extracts, essen-
as extensive lesions including nodules and scar- tial oils and phytomolecules.1 Ingredients in
ring together with cysts (> 5). In this worst case, topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and
the total comedone count is more than 100, naturally derived compounds, have received
total inflammatory lesions are higher than 50, considerable interest as they show fewer
and total number of lesions surpasses 125.1 adverse effects than synthetic agents.8
Therapeutically, although there are numer- Although some herbs have been explored for
ous drug alternatives for the treatment of their anti-acne efficacy, many remain unexam-
acnee.g., topical systemic retinoids and ined.9 In relation, the present article describes
antibiotics, and topical keratolyticsthe an acne treatment incorporating two Brassica
foremost challenge is the growing concern over oleracea variants whose anti-inflammatory,
antibiotic resistance and dermal and systemic antimicrobial and antioxidant effects were
toxicities with existing medications.1, 4 The larg- previously reported.10, 11 Described herein
est hurdle in the treatment of acne is patient preliminary clinical trials aimed to determine
non-compliance, which is due in large part to the efficacy and tolerability of the topical herbal
poor tolerability with common acne medica- blend to treat mild to moderate acne.
tions. As such, new acne treatments must be
Materials and Methods
Extract preparation: Edible grade B.olera-
cea var. botrytis (cauliflower) and B. oleracea
var. italica (broccoli) were obtained from a com-
mercial farm in zmir, Turkey. The plants were
In the U.S. alone, acne affects 40 to 50 million picked and processed within two days to obtain
people. Sales of the top 10 acne brands extracts. The plant parts were finely cut and
include $600 million in topical antibiotics and two parts cauliflower to one part broccoli were
$240 million in topical retinoids. boiled in water for three hours, then cooled to
room temperature. The extract was filtered and
concentrated using a rotaryevaporator.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry Benzyl alcohol was added as a preservative
(www.GCImagazine.com) at 1% w/w. The sample was tested microbiologi-
cally after 24 hr and the microbiological limits

34 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


for cauliflower-broccoli extract were identified into an anti-acne spot gel at 20%, along with
as follows: total aerobic microbial count 100 niacinamide (2%) for its auxiliary antisebor-
CFU/g; total yeast and mold count 100 CFU/g; rheic and anti-inflammatory benefits.8, 15, 16
Escherichia coli = absent in a 1-g sample; and The final product was formulated as shown in
Salmonella species = absent in 25-g sample. Formula 1.
Formula preparation: The anti-acne Clinical panel: Otherwise healthy 20 male
cauliflower-broccoli extract was incorporated and female subjects having mild to moderate

Formula 1. Anti-acne Test Formula

% w/w Function in formula


Water (aqua) qs solvent
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 1.30 viscosity control
Anti-acne Herbal Extract Blend 20.00 herbal active
Niacinamide 2.00 antiseborrheic
Sodium Hydroxide (0.01 N solution) 1.00 pH adjustment
Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid 1.00 preservative
Glycerin 3.00 humectant
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.00 solvent

Table 1. Gender, Age and Skin Type Distribution of Test Subjects

Subject No. Gender Age* Skin type


1 f 32 combination
2 f 24 oily
3 f 17 oily
4 f 21 combination
5 f 49 combination/sensitive
6 m 16 combination
7 f 22 combination
8 f 17 combination
9 f 37 combination
10 m 37 normal/sensitive
11 f 28 combination/sensitive
12 f 22 combination/sensitive
13 f 28 combination
14 f 31 combination
15 f 25 combination
16 f 32 combination/sensitive
17 m 19 combination
18 m 27 combination
19 m 32 combination
20 m 19 dry/sensitive

* Mean age standard deviation (SD) value = 26.75 8.35

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 35


acne enrolled in the trial with informed consent tion or irritation ensued during the relevant
and institutional ethical committee approval. period. Note that in this preliminary study, the
All subjects were 16 years or older and were not objective was only to obtain safety and efficacy
using any topical or systemic medications. They data, thus a placebo or control was not included
also had no hypersensitivity history and none of in the test protocol.
them were pregnant or in lactation period. Clinical assessment: After four weeks of
Preliminary dermatological examinations: application, clinical assessment was performed
After assessing the skin type of each subject, by the dermatologist, again in reference to
based on sebumeter results and clinical his- the number of papules and pustules. In addi-
tory, the papules and pustules on the faces of tion, subjects completed a self-assessment
subjects were counted by a dermatologist. The regarding the efficacy and tolerability of the
gender, age and skin type distribution of the test preparation. A students t-test was used for
subjects are depicted in Table 1. statisticalanalysis.
Application of spot gel: All subjects applied
the test preparation to their faces twice daily for Results
four weeks. The subjects were directed to visit No complaint of sensitivity or irritation
the responsible dermatologist if any sensitiza- was reported during the course of the trial,

Table 2. Total Papules, Differences and Change Ratios

Subject No. Beginning After 4 weeks Difference Change ( %)


1 22 13 -9 -40.91
2 26 21 -5 -19.23
3 2 4 2 100
4 82 75 -7 -8.54
5 10 3 -7 -70
6 10 10 0 0
7 15 12 -3 -20
8 4 12 8 200
9 7 8 1 14.29
10 10 7 -3 -30
11 21 7 14 -66.67
12 8 5 -3 -37.5
13 10 8 -2 -20
14 10 8 -2 -20
15 22 9 -13 -59.09
16 22 14 -8 -36.36
17 45 27 -18 -40
18 54 50 -4 -7.41
19 30 25 -5 -16.67
20 43 32 -11 -25.58
Mean SD 22.70 19.97 17.50 17.76 (-5.20 6.04) (-22.91 60.91)

36 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Clinical outcomes of the cauliflower and
broccoli extract blend were highly significant.

so treatment using the gel was uninterrupted (-22.91%; p < 0.0017), pustules (-30.84%; p <
throughout the course of the study. During the 0.0042) and the sum of papules and pustules
final dermatological exam at the end of the trial, (-14.69%; p < 0.0005). The beginning and fourth
no participants showed signs of developing any week mean values are depicted in Figure 1 on
pathological skin disorders in the test areas. Page 68.
The preparation was therefore well-tolerated
and did not cause unwanted skin reactions. The Discussion
general impression was satisfactory. As noted, acne affects most of the popula-
The differences in the total numbers of pap- tion at some point and is not subject to a
ules and pustules are depicted in Table 2 and specific demographic group or sex. Adolescents
Table 3, respectively; the overall differences of continue to be the most widely affected by acne,
acne symptoms concerning the sum of papules however, almost 30% of all patients treated for
and pustules are depicted in Table 4. acne are older than 24 years of age. In fact, 50%
The herbal anti-acne spot gel significantly of women who experience acne do so during
improved acne symptoms including papules their adult years.12

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 37


Table 3. Total Pustules, Differences and Change Ratios

Subject No. Beginning After 4 weeks Difference Change ( %)


1 6 1 -5 -83.33
2 13 6 -7 -53.85
3 3 7 4 133.33
4 16 12 -4 -25.00
5 7 2 -5 -71.43
6 4 12 8 200.00
7 2 2 0 0.00
8 2 4 2 100.00
9 13 1 -12 -92.31
10 1 0 -1 -100.00
11 8 3 -5 -62.50
12 2 3 1 50.00
13 7 1 -6 -85.71
14 12 8 -4 -33.33
15 4 0 -4 -100.00
16 7 1 -6 -85.71
17 20 15 -5 -25.00
18 6 3 -3 -50.00
19 60 54 -6 -10.00
20 23 12 -11 -47.83
Mean SD 10.80 13.12 7.40 11.91 -3.45 4.74 -30.84 82.65

An increased occurrence of psychological Consequently, this changes the composition


distress also is common in acneic patients, of sebum, particularly levels of linoleic acid;
although it typically diminishes with adequate hyperkeratinization is initiated; and desquama-
treatment. Indeed, it has repeatedly been tion is reduced. Subsequently, proinflammatory
shown that an improvement in acne can cytokines are released, causing microcomedo-
significantly improve self-esteem and positive nes. The resulting microcomedones further
emotion.13 Although acne can change accord- develop into comedones and inflamma-
ing to relevant etiological factors, its therapy is torylesions.1, 8
generally long and cumbersome. Therefore, it is imperative to preserve
Whatever the main etiologic factor is, patient compliance while presenting an effec-
i.e., psychological distress, constitutional tive treatment option. Herbal extracts are an
factors, hormonal imbalance, drugs, etc., the attractive option, due to their wide range of
pathogenetic end result is sebaceous gland anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxi-
dysfunction, overproduction of normal flora dant properties as well as minimal irritation
and P. acnes, T-cell activation, and genera- potential.1, 4, 6, 8-11
tion of reactive oxygen species and protease As stated, in recent years, the anti-
enzymes, which lead to the follicular wall inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidative and
rupture of sebaceousglands. antiproliferative effects of different B.oleracea

38 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Table 4. Sum of Papules and Pustules, Differences and Change Ratios

Subject No. Beginning After 4 weeks Difference Change ( %)


1 28 14 -14 -50
2 39 27 -12 -30.77
3 5 11 6 120
4 98 87 -11 -11.22
5 17 5 -12 -70.59
6 14 22 8 57.14
7 17 14 -3 -17.64
8 6 16 10 166.66
9 20 9 -11 -55
10 11 7 -4 -36.36
11 29 10 -19 -65.51
12 10 8 -2 -20
13 17 9 -8 -47.05
14 22 16 -6 -27.27
15 26 9 -17 -65.38
16 29 15 -14 -48.28
17 65 42 -23 -35.38
18 60 53 -7 -11.67
19 90 79 -11 -12.22
20 66 44 -22 -33.33
Mean SD 33.45 27.53 24.85 23.97 -8.6 9.16 -14.69 61.23

variants were studied in vivo and in vitro.10,11,14 var. botrytis/cauliflower and var. italica/broccoli,
The genus Brassica contains high amounts to obtain a synergistic effect. Furthermore,
of glucosinolates, which are metabolized to these plants have been and are consumed
isothiocyanates and later, sulforaphane. These worldwide without any adverse effects reported.
nitrogen and sulfur containing products are At the end of the fourth week, the clinical
proven to be the cause of health-promoting outcomes were highly significant in terms
effects of these plants.11, 14 Interestingly, of changes in the total numbers of papules,
in our search of the literature, we found pustules and the sum of two. This data is very
many anti-acne clinical studies with other encouraging, as most clinical dermatologists
plant extracts,1,7,9 but data was lacking for would agree that four weeks is a short period
B.oleracea. to treat acne vulgaris. The results would most
Due to the health-promoting properties of likely be more striking if the treatment period
this species, especially anti-inflammatory and were extended.
antimicrobial effects, and also considering
the pathogenesis of acne described above, we Conclusions
hypothesized its potential anti-acne efficacy and Although more clinical investigations are
designed the preliminary study described here. needed, this preliminary data gives evidence
We selected the two variants of B. oleracea, i.e., that the described herbal anti-acne formulation

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 39


Figure 1. Beginning and fourth-week mean total numbers of papules, pustules and their sums

is highly effective, causing no irritation in mild 11. MS Hifnawy, RM Abdelsalam, MA Rabeh and MA
Aboseada, Glucosinolates, glycosidically bound volatiles
to moderate acne and most importantly, offers and antimicrobial activity of Brassica oleracea var. botrytis
an alternative to classical anti-acnemedications. (soultany cultivar), J Biology, Agriculture and Healthcare
3(17) 66-81 (2013)
12. D Thiboutot, AF Alexis and LH Kircik, Demystifying acne
References algorithms, J Drugs Dermatol 10(6S) 5-27 (2011)
1. P Sinha, S Srivastava, N Mishra and NP Yadav, New per- 13. V Grahame, DC Dick, CM Morton, O Watkins and KG
spectives on anti-acne plant drugs: Contribution to modern Power, The psychological correlates of treatment efficacy in
therapeutics, Biomed Res Int 301304 (2014) acne, Dermatol Psychosom 3 119-125 (2002)
2. L Chularojanamontri, P Tuchinda, K Kulthanan and K 14. EJ Cho, YA Lee, HH Yoo and T Yokozawa, Protective
Pongparit, Moisturizers for acne: What are their constituents? effects of broccoli (Brassica oleracea) against oxidative
JClin Aesthet Dermatol 7(5) 36-44 (2014) damage invitro and in vivo, J Nutr Sci Vitaminol 52 437-444
3. EJ Keri and LS Nield, Acne, rosacea and hidradenitis (2006)
supurativa, in General Dermatology, K Schwarzenberger, 15. C Burgess, Topical vitamins, J Drugs Dermatol 7(7S) 2-6
AEWerchniak and CJ Ko, eds, Saunders Elsevier, Edinburgh (2008)
305-313 (2008)
16. ZD Draelos, A Matsubara and K Smiles, The effect of 2%
4. WA Fisk, HA Lev-Tov and RK Sivamani, Botanical and niacinamide on facial sebum production, J Cosmet Laser
phytochemical therapy of acne: A systematic review, Phytoter Ther 8(2) 96-101 (2006)
Res 28(8) 1137-1152 (2014)
5. AC Bhatia and F Jimenez, Rapid treatment of mild acne with
a novel skin care system containing 1% salycilic acid, 10%
buffered glycolic acid and botanical ingredients, J Drugs
Dermatol 13(6) 678-683 (2014) C&T Daily Newsletter
6. AM Dattner, From medical herbalism to phytotherapy in der-
matology: Back to the future. Dermatol Ther 16(2) 106-113
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
(2003) delivered straight to your inbox everyday!
7. J Reuter, I Merfort and CM Schempp, Botanicals in dermatol-
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
ogy: An evidence-based review, Am J Clin Dermatol 11(4)
247-267 (2010)
8. M Kanlayavattanakul and N Lourith, Therapeutic agents and
herbs in topical application for acne treatment, Int J Cosm Sci
33 289-297 (2011)
9. S Kapoor and S Saraf, Topical herbal therapies: An alternative C&T Online
and complementary choice to combat acne, Res J Med Plant
Find related content at
5(6) 650-669 (2011)
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
10. MW Jang and BJ Ha, Effects of broccoli on anti-inflammation
and anti-oxidation according to extraction solvent, J Fd Hyg
Safety 27(4) 461-465 (2012)

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Formulating | C&T

Skin Care Ingredients


Editors note: The ingredients and formulas shown
here are just a sampling of the newest additions to
our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
(CBR). Visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr to
search our entire database.
The following ingredients have skin care functions
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and anti-irritant (Page 42); antimicrobial and Conditioner, Moisturizer, Skin Healing
Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Hexylresorcinol,
antiperspirant (Page 43); astringent, barrier repair
Ethyl Linolenate Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
and anti-cellulite (Page 44); emollient (Page 45);
Synactin AC, Sytheon Ltd. Phytol EPO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
humectant (Page 49); moisturizer (Page 50); skin
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
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54); skin healing and protection, treatments for Coleus Forskohlii Oil, Sabinsa Corp.
chapped skin, and toning (Page 55). Additional Functions: Antimicrobial Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
MATMARINE blue ingredient, Lipotec USA,
Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil Inc.
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Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Arborescens Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis
Ethyl Linoleate Marula Butter, International Cosmetic
Gel, Aloe Ferox Extract
Synovea EL, Sytheon Ltd. Science Centre A/S
Aloe Vera Extract, Naturalin Bio-Resources
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Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-
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Propanediol LipoFullerene, Vitamin C60 BioResearch
VARI STAN PE, Variati Srl Corp.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
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Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Madagascariensis Extract
Subligana, Seppic Vitex Agnus-Castus Extract
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Azamide, Vevy Europe Spa Water (aqua), Glycerin, Linum Usitatissimum
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Miniporyl, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Lipigenine, Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Bakuchiol
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Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Citrus Limon (Lemon) Seed Oil, Acer
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PSI Green Tea Extract 45%, Paradigm Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
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2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 41


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Maltodextrin Glycerin, Lactitol, Xylitol
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Emollient, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil Water (aqua), Epilobium Angustifolium
Phytol Sacha Inchi, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Canadian Willowherb, Lucas Meyer
CustoNatural Protein HC, Custom wrinkle, Emollient, Hair Conditioner, Cosmetics
Ingredients, Inc. Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Healing
Anti-wrinkle, Barrier Repair, Hair Propanediol
Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Yeast Extract
Healing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Products CustoNatural Pseudo-Col, Custom
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Ingredients, Inc.
Hydrolyzed Milk Protein Antimicrobial, Emollient, Emulsifier, Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
CustoNatural Milk, Custom Ingredients, Feel Enhancer, Humectant, Moisturizer, inflammatory, Moisturizer, Skin Healing,
Inc. Preservative, Solvent Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
inflammatory, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Apricot Wax, International Cosmetic ANTIMICROBIAL
Science Centre A/S
Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Additional Functions: Skin Protectant Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
CustoNatural Oat, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Green Tea CG, Sabinsa Corp.
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Moisturizer Jojoba Oil Golden Organic, MORRE-TEC
Sunscreen-UVB
Industries, Inc.
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Glyceryl Laurate, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme)
CustoNatural Rice-Pro, Custom Ingredients, Antioxidant, Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Inc. Healing SabiLize, Sabinsa Corp.
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer, SCB Jojoba Oil, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
Skin Cooling/Soothing, Skin Treatment- Neemoids, Sabinsa Corp.
Chapped Skin inflammatory, Anti-wrinkle, Emollient, Hair
Anti-aging, Skin Smoothing
Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract
Isopropyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Water (aqua), Oleuropein, Sabinsa Corp.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Juice
PhytoflOral, IBR Ltd. Additional Functions: Antioxidant
MeliNOIL, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Propanediol
wrinkle, Skin Protectant, Sunless Tanning Antioxidant, Skin Lightening, Skin
Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Agent Protectant, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin ,
Products
SPF Booster
Additional Functions: Antibacterial,
Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Antimicrobial, Emollient, Emulsifier,
Phosphate, Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua) Squalane
Phytol Squalane, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Feel Enhancer, Humectant, Moisturizer,
Arlasilk EFA, Croda Preservative, Solvent
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Emollient, Moisturizer
Sapindus Trifoliatus Fruit Extract
Marsdenia Cundurango Bark Extract, Caprylic/ Sapindin, Sabinsa Corp.
Capric Triglyceride Tetrasodium Tetracarboxymethyl
Naringeninchalcone, Water (aqua) Additional Functions: Surfactant-
Serenityl, Ashland Specialty Ingredients Amphoteric
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- CM-Naringenin Chalcone, Mibelle
wrinkle, Barrier Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Biochemistry
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Healing, Skin ANTIPERSPIRANT
Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Seed Oil
Milk Cranberry Seed Oil, I & W Research Inc. Cetearyl Alcohol
CustoNatural Milk WH, Custom Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Crodacol CS50, Croda
Ingredients, Inc. inflammatory, Anti-wrinkle, Emollient, Hair Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Conditioner, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Depilatory, Emollient, Opacifier, Rheology
inflammatory, Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/ Modifier, Skin Protectant, Stabilizer-
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Alteromonas Emulsion, Sunless Tanning Agent
Soothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Ferment Extract

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 43


Oleth-3 Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Hydrogenated Soybean Oil, Hydrogenated
BRIJ 03, Croda inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil,
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja (Soybean)
Depilatory, Dispersant, Gellant, Solubilizer, Skin Smoothing Sterols
Wetting Agent Element Plantolatum NPA, Element E LLC
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Additional Functions: Emollient, Feel
Oleth-5 NAT ORGANIC DEODORIZED BAOBAB Enhancer, Film-former, Moisturizer, Skin
BRIJ 05, Croda OIL, NATUROCHIM S.A.S. Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair Chapped Skin , Stabilizer-Emulsion
Depilatory, Dispersant, Gellant, Solubilizer, Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/Soothing,
Wetting Agent Skin Protectant Isosorbide Disunflowerseedate
HydraSynol IDL, Sytheon Ltd.
PCA Dimethicone Alanyl Glutamine Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Exfoliant
Sensasil PCA, Croda SUSTAMINE L-Alanyl-L-Glutamine, Kyowa
Additional Functions: Deodorant, Emollient, Hakko USA Inc. Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Hair Cleanser/Shampoo Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Skin ProRenew Complex CLR, CLR Chemisches
Healing, Stimulant Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Ethylhexanoate Additional Functions: Skin Protectant
Crodamol SFX, Croda Allantoin
Additional Functions: Deodorant, Emollient, Allantoin, T.H. Hilson Co. Nelumbo Nucifera Extract
Hair Conditioner, Solvent Additional Functions: Emollient Harmoniance, Ashland Specialty
Ingredients
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
ButterRainForest Murumuru Seed Butter,
ASTRINGENT Beraca
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Cellulite Treatment, Moisturizer, Skin
Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Alcohol, Boswellia Serrata Extract Conditioner, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Boswellia LC Herbasol, Lipoid Kosmetik AG
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti- Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil ParaOil Evening Primrose Oil 9% GLA
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Skin Healing, Biochemica Brazil Nut Oil, The Hallstar (GMO Free), Paradigm Science Inc
Stimulant Company Additional Functions: Emollient, Hair
Additional Functions: Emollient, Film- Cleanser/Shampoo, Skin Cleanser
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, former, Hair Conditioner, Lubricant,
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Arctium Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Lappa Root Extract, Lecithin Propanediol, Water (aqua), Bioflavonoids
Phytotal OS PS, Croda Elixiance, Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Iris
Antiseptic, Dandruff Treatment, Hair Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Skin Protectant,
Florentina Root Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice)
Cleanser/Shampoo, Oil Absorbent, Skin Bran Wax Skin Smoothing
Cleanser Olos Iris Olosense, The Hallstar Company
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Laminaria
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Emollient, Digitata Extract
Melaleuca Symphyocarp Extract Moisturizer, Odor-masking Agent, Skin Biochemica Algae Oil, The Hallstar
Campo Liniment Tea Tree, Campo Research Protectant, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Company
Water (aqua), Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract, Additional Functions: Cellulite Treatment,
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil,
Gypsophila Paniculata Root Extract, Balanites Emollient, Feel Enhancer, Humectant,
Water (aqua)
Aegyptiaca (Desert Date) Fruit Extract Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing
Hydresia PE, Botaneco
Phytofoam, Croda Additional Functions: Delivery System,
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti- Water (aqua), Propanediol, Hexapeptide-42
Emulsifier, Moisturizer
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Foam Booster/ Caspaline 14, Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Stabilizer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Skin Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Cleanser Epilobium Angustifolium Extract Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Olos Epilobium Olactif, The Hallstar
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Khaya Senegalensis Company
Wood Extract Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
CELLULITE TREATMENT
Crodarom Mahogony, Croda Antioxidant, Emollient, Moisturizer, Skin
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Healing, Skin Betula Alba Juice, Glycerin
Zinc Oxide Protectant Birch Sap PH, Croda
Zoco 102 USP-Standard, The Hallstar
Company Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Brassica Alba Sprout Extract, Capsaicin,
Additional Functions: Colorant, Sunscreen- Propolis Extract Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
UVA, Surfactant-Anionic Olos Propolis Oloactif TL, The Hallstar ShapePerfection, Mibelle Biochemistry
Company
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Caffeine
BARRIER REPAIR Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, PSI Green Caffeine USP (High Purity, Natural
Emollient, Lubricant, Moisturizer, Skin and Anhydrous), Paradigm Science Inc
3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate Protectant, Skin Smoothing Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Amitose 3LGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.

44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Plankton Extract Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil
ActiGym and Nocturshape blue ingredients, Argan Butter, International Cosmetic High Oleic Rapeseed Oil (HORO),
Lipotec USA, Inc. Science Centre A/S International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Hair Additional Functions: Humectant,
Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Hair Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing
Repair, Hair Waving, Humectant, Moisturizer
EMOLLIENT Argan Oil, MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc.
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Danomega-3, International Cosmetic
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Baobab Oil, GREENTECH Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Additional Functions: Humectant,
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Moisturizer
Phytol Baobab, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Phytol Murumuru, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil,
Conditioner, Moisturizer, Skin Healing Moisturizer, Skin Healing Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract
Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil Bis-PEG-10 Dimethicone/Dimer Dilinoleate Danomega-3 Hair Care, International
Phytol Kukui, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Copolymer
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, PEL-SIL bis-PEG-10, Ele Corporation
Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging,
Moisturizer Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Conditioner,
Lubricant
Hair Repair, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin
Annatto Smoothing
Phytol Annatto, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone Beeswax
Additional Functions: Colorant PEL-SIL bis-PEG-12, Ele Corporation
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed
Additional Functions: Lubricant Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Stevia
Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil Rebaudiana Extract, Cistus Monspeliensis
Phytol PNUT, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Extract
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Borage Oil, International Cosmetic Science
Olos Life Olobooster, The Hallstar
Centre A/S
Company
Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract Additional Functions: Humectant,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Phytol Argan Organic, Custom Ingredients, Moisturizer
Antioxidant, Skin Lightening
Inc. Phytol BOR, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Additional Functions: Moisturizer

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 45


Bertholetta Excelsa Seed Oil Andiroba Oil, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Phytol Brazil, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Science Centre A/S
Phytol Coco Virgin Organic, Custom
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Additional Functions: Humectant, Skin
Ingredients, Inc.
Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Healing Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Phytol Monoi, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
BioChemica Shea Butter Org, The Hallstar Phytol Andiroba, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Company Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Seed Oil
Lubricant, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Seed Oil
Papaya Butter, International Cosmetic
Hazelnut Oil I.S., International Cosmetic
Jarplex SB35, T.H. Hilson Co. Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti-
Additional Functions: Humectant,
Healing, Skin Protectant inflammatory, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin
Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing,
Cleanser, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin
Phytol Shea, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Smoothing
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer,
Moisturizer Papaya Oil, International Cosmetic Science Croton Lechleri Resin Extract
Centre A/S Phytol CL, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Oil Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Lipex SheaClear, AAK Humectant, Moisturizer Healing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract
Phytol Shea Oil, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Phytol Cucumber, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Phytol SAF HO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Protectant Protectant, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Cerotyl Dimethicone
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Seed Oil
Silwax J226, Siltech LLC
Tamanu Oil, International Cosmetic Science Cucumber Butter, International Cosmetic
Centre A/S Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Extract Additional Functions: Absorption Base,
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Antiseptic, Skin Phytol Cham, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Anti-aging, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin
Healing Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/Soothing
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil Cucumber Oil, International Cosmetic
Camelina Oil, International Cosmetic Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Oil Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S Quinoa Oil, International Cosmetic Science Additional Functions: Humectant,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging Centre A/S Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Hair Cucumber Seed Oil, Botanic Innovations,
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Repair, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin LLC
Biochemica Camellia Tea Oil, The Hallstar
Smoothing Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Company
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Smoothing
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Lubricant, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Kalahari Melon Seed Oil Organic, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil
International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S Phytol Pumpkin, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Canola Oil
Additional Functions: Humectant, Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Phytol CAN, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil,
Moisturizer Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract
Emolid CC, AIC Pumpkin Seed Butter, International
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, SPF Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Miglyol 829, TCR Industries Inc.
Booster
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract
Stabilizer-Emulsion Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Phytol Karit Extra, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Biochemica Coconut Oil EV Org, The Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Colorant,
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride,
Hallstar Company Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil,
Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Additional Functions: Fragrance (Parfum) Chapped Skin
Tocopheryl Acetate Component, Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-
Chapped Skin Decyl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate
LNST, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Crodamol SSA, Croda
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Phytol Coco, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Protectant Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Dihydroxypropyl Arginine HCl
Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing, Skin Amitose R, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil Treatment-Chapped Skin Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Hair
Andiroba Butter, International Cosmetic
Phytol Coco Organic, Custom Ingredients, Conditioner, Hair Repair, Humectant,
Science Centre A/S
Inc. Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Humectant,
Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing

46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil Phytol SUN HO Organic, Custom Lanolin Anhydrous
Phytol PAL, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Ingredients, Inc. Lanolin, Wellman Advanced Materials
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Moisturizer Moisturizer Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Ointment Base, Skin Treatment-Chapped
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Brassica Sunflower Oil, High Oleic, International
Skin
Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Cosmodan-20, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Humectant, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Science Centre A/S Moisturizer Biochemica Macadamia Oil Ref, The Hallstar
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Company
1,2-Hexanediol
Antioxidant, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
1,2 Hexanediol CG, Sabinsa Corp.
Protectant Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Antimicrobial,
Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract Humectant, Wetting Agent Phytol MAC, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Amla Oil Extract, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Science Centre A/S
Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil, International
Additional Functions: Foaming Agent/
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
Foamer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair
Additional Functions: Humectant, Biochemica Mango Butter Ultra, The
Conditioner, Hair Repair, Skin Cleanser, Skin
Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing, Hallstar Company
Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Emu Oil Lubricant, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent, Skin
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil Treatment-Chapped Skin
CustoNatural EMU, Custom Ingredients,
Phytol CVO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Inc. Cosmosil MO (Mango Olein), International
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Moisturizer
Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Co-
Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Oil emulsifier, Skin Smoothing
Ethyl Oleate
Phytol PKO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Ethyl Oleate EP, Handa Fine Chemicals Mauritia Flexuosa Extract
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Additional Functions: Binder, Emulsifier, Buriti Oil, International Cosmetic Science
Conditioner, Moisturizer
Fixative, Hair Conditioner Centre A/S
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Additional Functions: Humectant,
Ethyl Palmate Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant,
Phytol HVO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Certified Organic AllyEster, Coast Southwest Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Inc.
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil
Fragaria Vesca (Strawberry) Fruit Extract, Buriti Fruit Oil, International Cosmetic
Floraester K20W and K100, T.H. Hilson Co.
Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil, Science Centre A/S
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract Additional Functions: Detangler, Film-
former, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Skin Additional Functions: Humectant,
Strawberry Butter, International Cosmetic
Healing, Skin Protectant, Water-proofing Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant,
Science Centre A/S
Agent Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Skin
Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Jojoba Esters
Floraester 15,20,30,60, 70, IPJ, T.H. Hilson Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
Glyceryl Olivate
Co. Phytol Neem, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
PEL-EST OVG, Ele Corporation
Additional Functions: Skin Healing, Skin Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Co-emulsifier, Protectant, Thickener
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Emulsifier, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent, Moringa Butter, T.H. Hilson Co.
Jojoba Oil PEG-150 Esters
Wetting Agent Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Florasolvs Jojoba-150, The Hallstar
Company Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-
Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Feel Chapped Skin
Finester 1650, Fine Organics
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Surfactant- Enhancer, Fixative, Lubricant, Plasticizer,
Solubilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Nonionic, Thickener Moringa Butter, International Cosmetic
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters Science Centre A/S
Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Florasolvs Jojoba-120, The Hallstar Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, Skin
Phytol SOY, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Company Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Feel Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil Enhancer, Lubricant, Solubilizer, Surfactant- Moringa Oil, T.H. Hilson Co.
Phytol COT, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Nonionic Additional Functions: Skin Healing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Oil Phytol Moringa, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Phytol WAL, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Phytol SUN HO, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Moisturizer Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Moisturizer

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 47


Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil Additional Functions: Lubricant, Moisturizer, Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
BioChemica Olive Oil-Ult Ref, The Hallstar Skin Protectant Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing,
Company Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Lubricant, Moisturizer Pinus Palustris Oil
Phytol Pine, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Additional Functions: Moisturizer Apricot Kernel Oil, International Cosmetic
Phytol O Organic, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Pistacia Vera Seed Oil Additional Functions: Humectant,
Moisturizer Phytol Tach, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Phytol O Pomace, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Phytol APR, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Pistachio Butter, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Moisturizer Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Absorption Base, Prunus Avium (Sweet Cherry) Seed Oil
Phytol O Pure, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant Cherry Butter, International Cosmetic
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Science Centre A/S
Moisturizer Polyquaternium-6 Additional Functions: Humectant,
Conditioner P6, T.H. Hilson Co. Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Olive Glycerides Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Olifeel E-Nat, Amedeo Brasca & Co. srl Hair Repair, Moisturizer Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Emulsifier ParaOil Plum Oil, Paradigm Science Inc
PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Olus Oil PEL-ALC CA-205P, Ele Corporation Shampoo, Moisturizer, Odor-masking Agent,
Softigen PURA, TCR Industries Inc. Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Skin Cleanser
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer Emulsifier, Solubilizer, Surfactant-Nonionic,
Suspending Agent Phytol Prune, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Phytol Rice Bran, Custom Ingredients, Inc. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Arlamol PS15E, Croda
Additional Functions: Solvent Punica Granatum Extract
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Brassica Phytol POM, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Elaeis Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Propanediol
Guineensis (Palm) Oil Moisturizer
Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Cosmassage R-3, International Cosmetic
Products
Science Centre A/S Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Antibacterial,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Blackcurrant Butter, International Cosmetic
Antimicrobial, Emollient, Emulsifier,
inflammatory, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Science Centre A/S
Feel Enhancer, Humectant, Moisturizer,
Smoothing Additional Functions: Skin Healing, Skin
Preservative, Solvent
Protectant, Skin Smoothing
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Blackcurrant Oil, International Cosmetic
Phytol Shea EO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Almond Butter, International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Hair
Science Centre A/S Additional Functions: Skin Protectant, Skin
Conditioner, Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Smoothing
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate Phytol ALS, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Lonzest PTO, Lonza Consumer Care Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Phytol Black Castor, Custom Ingredients,
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Extract Inc.
Cosmosil-A Avocado Butter, International Sweet Almond Oil, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S Science Centre A/S Hair Repair, Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Antioxidant,
Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant, Phytol Castor, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Shampoo, Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Hair
Cleanser, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Smoothing
Conditioner, Moisturizer
Stabilizer-Emulsion
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Citrus Rose Canina Fruit Oil
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil Phytol RHO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Biochemica Avocado Oil NatOrg, The Aurantifolia (Lime) Peel Oil
Biochemica Lime Butter, The Hallstar Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Hallstar Company Treatment-Chapped Skin
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Company
Moisturizer, Neutralizer Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Rose Hip Oil, International Cosmetic
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Moisturizer, Science Centre A/S
Biochemica Avocado Oil Ref, The Hallstar Odor-masking Agent, Skin Lightening Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Company Healing
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Lubricant, Moisturizer, Refatting Agent Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Equisetum Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil
Arvense Extract Phytol RAS, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Petrolatum Biochemica Horsetail Butter, The Hallstar Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Ultrapure SC White Petrolatum USP, Ultra Company Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-
Chemical Inc. Chapped Skin

48 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Red raspberry oil, I & W Research Inc. Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Phytol GSO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Dilinoleate, Beeswax Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Hair
Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Sunscreen- Liquiwax PolyIPL, Croda Conditioner, Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin
UVA, Sunscreen-UVB Additional Functions: Glosser, Lubricant, Treatment-Chapped Skin
Rheology Modifier, Thickener
Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract Taraktogenos Kurzii Seed Oil Corn Germ Oil, International Cosmetic
Raspeberry Butter, International Cosmetic Chaulmoogra Oil, International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S Science Centre A/S Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier
Additional Functions: Skin Healing, Skin Additional Functions: Humectant,
Protectant Moisturizer, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil
Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Corn (Zea mays) oil, Welch Holme & Clark
Rubus Occidentalis Seed Oil Skin Co.
Phytol Blk B, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Skin Healing
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
Phytol Maize, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Hair Conditioner, Cocoa Butter/Cocoadan, International
Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Moisturizer, Skin Cleanser Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Emulsifier,
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing
Chia Seed Oil, Botanic Innovations, LLC
HUMECTANT
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Smoothing Cupuau ButterUltra Refined, The Hallstar 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
Company Amitose 3GA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Sambucus Nigra Oil, Sambucus Nigra Extract Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Elderberry Butter, International Cosmetic wrinkle, Lanolin Substitute, Lubricant, inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Science Centre A/S Moisturizer, Rheology Modifier, Skin Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment- Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil
Chapped Skin Phytol Cupuacu, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Kukui Oil, International Cosmetic Science
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Centre A/S
Scierocarya Birrea (Marula) Kernel Oil Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Marula Oil, MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc. Trichilia Emetica Seed Butter Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Mafura Oil, International Cosmetic Science Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Centre A/S
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Arginine
Phytol Marula, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin L-Arginine base, Kyowa Hakko USA Inc.
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Additional Functions: Antistatic Agent,
Moisturizer Triethylhexanoin Buffer, Hair Conditioner
Lonzest GTO, Lonza Consumer Care
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil
Phytol SES, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate Oat Butter, International Cosmetic Science
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Lonzest TMPTC, Lonza Consumer Care Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Sesame Oil, MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc. Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil
Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer,
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Phytol WGO, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Skin Cleanser, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing
Moisturizer Additional Functions: Moisturizer

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract Wheat Germ Butter, International Cosmetic Bis-Glyceryl Ascorbate
Science Centre A/S Amitose DGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Phytol JOJO Clear, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Additional Functions: Glosser, Moisturizer,
Humectant, Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Wheat Germ Oil, International Cosmetic
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil Science Centre A/S Camellia Sinensis Oil
Jojoba Oil, Colorless Organic, MORRE-TEC Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Tea Tree Seed Oil, International Cosmetic
Industries, Inc. Smoothing Science Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
inflammatory, Lubricant Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed
Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Cranberry Seed Oil, International Cosmetic
Squalane Science Centre A/S Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Neossance Squalane, Amyris Inc. Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Hemp Seed Oil Unrefined, International
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment- Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Chapped Skin Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Squalene, Pentahydrosqualene
Vegetable Squalene from Olive Oil, Squaolive Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Antistatic Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Phytol Chardonnay, Custom Ingredients,
Agent, Hair Conditioner, Refatting Agent Inc. Ceramide 3
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, CustoNatural Ceramide, Custom
Antioxidant, Moisturizer Ingredients, Inc.

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 49


Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer, Hydrosativum P, Croda Healing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Skin Healing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Moisturizer Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil Cosmosil-E Evening Primrose Oil,
Watermelon Butter, International Cosmetic Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycerin, International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Science Centre A/S Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Water Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Additional Functions: Absorption Base, (aqua)
Moisturizer, Skin Cleanser, Skin Healing, Vegetamide 18MEA-MR, Seiwa Kasei Co., Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing Ltd. Babassu Oil, International Cosmetic Science
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Centre A/S
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Shampoo, Hair Colorant/Dye, Hair Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Coconut Olein, International Cosmetic Conditioner, Hair Repair, Moisturizer Shampoo, Hair Repair, Hair Waving,
Science Centre A/S Moisturizer, Skin Cleanser, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil
Cleanser, Skin Smoothing Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil, Refined, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil
International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S Rice Bran Butter, International Cosmetic
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Science Centre A/S
Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate Protectant, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment- Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Olivem 2020, The Hallstar Company Chapped Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing,
Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Feel Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Enhancer, Gellant, Rheology Modifier, Lysine HCl, Alanine, Histidine HCl, Arginine,
Rice Bran Oil, International Cosmetic
Stabilizer-Emulsion, Stabilizer-Viscosity, Serine, Proline, Glutamic Acid, Threonine,
Valine, Leucine, Glycine, Isoleucine, Science Centre A/S
Suspending Agent, Thickener
Phenylalanine, Taurine, Allantoin Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin
Glyceryl Ascorbate P.P.A.A.-C, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Protectant, Skin Smoothing
Amitose 2GA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
PEG-12 Dimethicone
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- wrinkle, Moisturizer, Skin Protectant
Andisil SP 4414, AB Specialty Silicones
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil Additional Functions: Detangler, Emulsifier,
Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Macadamia Oil, International Cosmetic Wetting Agent
Hexyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate Science Centre A/S
Polyglycerin-6
Amitose HGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Additional Functions: Moisturizer
Natrulon H-6, Lonza Consumer Care
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Myristyl 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Amitose MGA, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. Moisturizer, Skin Cooling/Soothing
Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Propanediol
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory,
Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Hydrogenated Phospholipids Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Emulsifier,
Products
LECIVA-S70H, VAV Life Sciences Pvt Ltd Moisturizer, Skin Lightening, Skin Smoothing
Additional Functions: Antibacterial,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Co-
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil Antimicrobial, Emollient, Emulsifier,
emulsifier, Controlled Release Delivery
Black Cumin Seed Oil, International Feel Enhancer, Humectant, Moisturizer,
System, Emulsifier, Moisturizer, Ointment
Cosmetic Science Centre A/S Preservative, Solvent
Base, Skin Healing

50 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Algae Extract, Mushroom Extract Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil, CustoGaia Mushroom Extract, Custom shea Butter, Molash Baruch LLC
Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil, Rubus Idaeus Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
(Raspberry) Seed Oil Hair Repair, Skin Clarifier, Skin Healing, Skin
Super Fruit Butter, International Cosmetic Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract Smoothing
Science Centre A/S Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Carrubba Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Protectant, Skin Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Skin Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Maltodextrin,
Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Healing Water (aqua), Wine
Vin-upLift, Mibelle Biochemistry
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil Phytol Aloe, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Chia Oil, International Cosmetic Science Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
wrinkle, Skin Smoothing
Centre A/S inflammatory, Hair Anti-aging, Skin Healing,
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Shampoo, Moisturizer, Skin Cleanser, Skin CustoGaia Marigold, Custom Ingredients,
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Smoothing Inc.
CustoGaia Aloe 1X, Custom Ingredients,
Sodium Hyaluronate Inc. Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Cosphaderm Sodium Hyaluronate, CustoGaia Aloe Vera 40X, Custom Camellia Oil, MMP, Inc.
Cosphatec GmbH Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing Camellia Sinensis Extract
Althaea Officinalis Extract CustoGaia Green Tea Extract, Custom
Stevioside CustoGaia Marshmallow, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Dolcevia, Sinerga USA Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
wrinkle, Moisturizer, Skin Smoothing Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter Hemp Seed Oil, International Cosmetic
Tucuma Seed Butter, International Cosmetic Science Centre A/S
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil Science Centre A/S Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, Skin
Grape Seed Butter, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Healing, Skin Smoothing
Science Centre A/S Shampoo, Hair Repair, Skin Cleanser, Skin
Additional Functions: Moisturizer Smoothing Capsicum Frutescens Fruit
CustoGaia Red Pepper, Custom Ingredients,
Grape Seed Oil, International Cosmetic Inc.
Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
Science Centre A/S Oat Oil, International Cosmetic Science
Additional Functions: Moisturizer, Skin Centre A/S Carnitine Tartrate
Healing Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, Skin Carnipure Tartrate, Lonza Consumer Care
Protectant, Skin Smoothing Additional Functions: Anti-aging

MOISTURIZER Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
CustoGaia Oat Powder, Custom Ingredients, CustoGaia Indian Hemp, Custom
Alcohol, Water (aqua), Lecithin Inc. Ingredients, Inc.
Lipobelle Glacier, Mibelle Biochemistry
Additional Functions: Skin Cooling/ Betula Alba Juice, Glycerin Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Fruit Extract
Soothing Calmosensine SP, Croda CustoGaia Lime PG, Custom Ingredients,
Inc.

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 51


Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Additional Functions: Hair Anti-aging, Hair
CustoGaia Grapefruit PG, Custom Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Hair Anti-aging, Conditioner, Hair Repair
Ingredients, Inc. Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing, SPF
CustoNatural Keratin PF, Custom
Booster, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB
Coco-Caprylate, Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin, Ingredients, Inc.
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Fucus Serratus Extract, Glycerin Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner,
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Homeo-Shield, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Hair Repair
Lamesoft OD, BASF SE
Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate Hydrolyzed Silk
Coconut Oil Ethyl Ferulate Esters Geogard Ultra, Lonza Consumer Care CustoNatural Silk Pro, Custom Ingredients,
FCG33 Feruloyl Coconut Glycerides, iActive Additional Functions: Preservative Inc.
Naturals, Inc.
Glycerin, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract Isosorbide Dicaprylate
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
CustoGaia Calendula, Custom Ingredients, HydraSynol DOI, Sytheon Ltd.
Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle, Hair Anti-aging,
Skin Protectant, Skin Smoothing, SPF Inc.
Lactobacillus, Milk Protein, Glycine Soja
Booster, Sunscreen-UVA, Sunscreen-UVB (Soybean) Oil, Cyclodextrin
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Ulmus Fulva Bark
LactoPro CLP, Lonza Consumer Care
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Skin
Cococin, Sabinsa Corp. CustoGaia Slippery Elm, Custom
Cooling/Soothing
Ingredients, Inc.
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit, Maltodextrin,
Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil
Cyclodextrin Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil,
Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot) Extract Flaxseed Oil, International Cosmetic
CustoGaia Coconut Milk Powder, Custom
CustoGaia Coltsfoot OS, Custom Science Centre A/S
Ingredients, Inc.
Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Anti-
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil aging, Hair Repair, Skin Smoothing
Coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, Arista Hippophae Rhamnoides (Seabuckthorn) Oil
AEC Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) Myristica Fragrans (Nutmeg) Extract
Industries Inc.
oil, A&E Connock (Perfumery & CustoGaia Nutmeg, Custom Ingredients,
Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Skin
Cosmetics) Ltd. Inc.
Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Coconut Oil, International Cosmetic Honey Niacinamide
Science Centre A/S CustoNatural Dark Honey, Custom Niacinamide USP PC, Lonza Consumer
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing Ingredients, Inc. Care
Additional Functions: Colorant, Skin Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Anti-
Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin aging, Hair Repair, Skin Protectant, Toner
Cooling/Soothing
Phytol Copaiba, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
CustoNatural Manuka, Custom Ingredients, Ocimum Sanctum Oil Extract
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Seed Oil Inc. CustoGaia Holy Basil, Custom Ingredients,
NatureFRESH Cold Press Cucumber Seed Inc.
Oil, Botanic Innovations, LLC Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-aging CustoGaia Hops, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Alcohol/
Succinic Acid Copolymer
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum Hydrastis Canadensis (Golden Seal) Extract Zenerbet, Zenitech
CustoNatural NG 7000, Custom Ingredients, CustoGaia Golden Seal, Custom Ingredients,
Inc. Inc. Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
CustoGaia Oregano, Custom Ingredients,
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract Hydrogenated Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Inc.
Phytol Karit, Custom Ingredients, Inc. NAT Organic Argan Wax, NATUROCHIM
S.A.S. Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline CustoGaia Ginseng AQ, Custom
Nuovo-Proline-16, McKinley Resources Inc. Hydrolyzed Collagen Ingredients, Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- CustoNatural Bovine Collagen A, Custom
wrinkle Ingredients, Inc. Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Avocado Oil, International Cosmetic
Egg Oil Conditioner, Hair Repair, Skin Healing, Science Centre A/S
Phytol EGG, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Thickener Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/
Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Skin Protectant,
Equisetum Hiemale Extract Hydrolyzed Elastin Skin Smoothing
CustoGaia Horsetail, Custom Ingredients, CustoNatural Elastin, Custom Ingredients,
Inc. Inc. Phenylpropanol, Propanediol, Caprylyl
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Skin Glycol, Tocopherol
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil Healing Sensiva PA 40, schulke
CustoGaia ACAI EXT, Custom Ingredients, Additional Functions: Antimicrobial
Inc. SoluMar Elastin SD, Lonza Consumer Care
Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract,
Feruloyl Soy Glycerides Hydrolyzed Keratin
Water (aqua), Glycerin
FSG33 Feruloyl Soy Glycerides, iActive CustoNatural Keratin, Custom Ingredients,
Fruitliquid Date EC, Croda
Naturals, Inc. Inc.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging

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Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed
CustoGaia Plumeria, Custom Ingredients, CustoGaia Rosemary, Custom Ingredients, Rice Extract
Inc. Inc. Aquarize IS, Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Skin
Polyglycerin-10 Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Phospholipids Protectant
Natrulon H-10, Lonza Consumer Care CustoNatural Respire PF, Custom
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Ingredients, Inc. Water (aqua), Butyrospermum Parkii
Repair, Skin Cooling/Soothing (Shea) Butter, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil Diisostearate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate
Propanediol ChiaProtect, COBIOSA Suprem WP Shea Butter, Lucas Meyer
Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Cosmetics
Products Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil Additional Functions: Skin Healing
Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Marula Oil, Lonza Consumer Care
Antimicrobial, Emollient, Emulsifier, Water (aqua), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil,
Feel Enhancer, Humectant, Moisturizer, Silk Amino Acids Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract
Preservative, Solvent CustoNatural Silk AA, Custom Ingredients, CustoGaia Monoi, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Inc.
Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Chamomilla Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Hair Water (aqua), Glycerin, Adansonia Digitata
Recutita (Matricaria) Extract Repair, Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment- Seed Extract
CustoGaia Chamomile, Custom Ingredients, Chapped Skin PhytoRNx Baobab, Ashland Specialty
Inc. Ingredients
Silk Powder Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Propylene Glycol, Water (aqua), Cucumis Fibro Silk Powder JP, Lonza Consumer Care wrinkle
Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner
CustoGaia CUC, Custom Ingredients, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Ceratonia Siliqua
Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (Carob) Seed Extract
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil Beta-Glucan M, McKinley Resources Inc. Aqua-Osmoline, Ashland Specialty
Apricot Butter, International Cosmetic Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Ingredients
Science Centre A/S inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle,
Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, Skin Skin Healing Water (aqua), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed
Protectant, Skin Smoothing Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Caesalpinia
Soluble Collagen SpinosaGum
Prunus Serotina (Wild Cherry) Bark Extract CustoNatural Soluble C, Custom Hydromanil HGL MS, Provital SA
CustoGaia Cherry Bark, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Feel Enhancer, Hair Water (aqua), Glycerin, Linum Usitatissimum
Conditioner, Hair Repair, Skin Healing, Skin (Linseed) Seed Extract
Punica Granatum Extract Treatment-Chapped Skin Sculptessence, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
CustoGaia POM Powder, Custom Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Ingredients, Inc. Superoxide Dismutase wrinkle
CustoNatural Superoxide Dismutase (SOD),
Punica Granatum Seed Oil Custom Ingredients, Inc. Water (aqua), Glycerin, Oryza Sativa (Rice)
Pomegranate Butter, International Cosmetic Extract
Science Centre A/S Tocotrienols, Tocotrienols Oil Crodarom Violet Rice, Croda
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, EVNol, ExcelVite Sdn. Bhd. Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Hair
Antioxidant, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Repair
Skin Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Antioxidant
Skin EVNol SupraBio, ExcelVite Sdn. Bhd. Water (aqua), Honey Extract,
Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract Healing Hive BCR, Bio Component
Antioxidant, Skin Healing
CustoGaia Quillaja, Custom Ingredients, Research
Inc. Trehalose Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Trehalose 100, DKSH North America, Inc. inflammatory, Anti-wrinkle, Skin Healing,
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract Skin Smoothing
Daikon Seed Extract, Natural Plant Products Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry) Fruit Manuka Honey BT, Bio Component
Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil Research
Phytol CRAN, Custom Ingredients, Inc.
ParaOil Rose Hip Seed Oil, Paradigm Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Science Inc Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory,
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Hair Cranberry Butter, International Cosmetic Antimicrobial, Skin Healing
Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Conditioner, Science Centre A/S
Reducing Agent, Skin Healing Water (aqua), Magnesium Carboxymethyl
Additional Functions: Skin Cleanser, Skin
Beta-Glucan
Cooling/Soothing, Skin Protectant, Skin
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract CM-Glucan Forte, Mibelle Biochemistry
Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
CustoGaia Rosebud Powder, Organic, Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Custom Ingredients, Inc. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil Skin Smoothing
Phytol Massage V4, Custom Ingredients,
Water (aqua), Niacinamide, Acetyl
Inc.
Glucosamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hordeum

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 53


Vulgare Extract, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hoya Lacunosa Allantoin
Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Pterocarpus Flower Extract Allantoin, Jeen International Corp.
Marsupium Bark Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Crodarom Porcelain Flower, Croda
Methylisothiazolinone, Caprylyl Glycol, Additional Functions: Pigment Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cocos Nucifera
Decylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, (Coconut) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Water (aqua) Aloe Butter, International Cosmetic Science
Crosspolymer, Tetrahydropiperine Crodateric Cab 30, Croda Centre A/S
AgeLess Complex DCx, Sabinsa Corp. Additional Functions: Foam Booster/ Additional Functions: Antioxidant, Skin
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Stabilizer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo Healing
Antioxidant, Skin Lightening, Skin Protectant
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Water Coleus Barbatus Extract
Water (aqua), Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran (aqua) Coleus Barbatus Extract, Sabinsa Corp.
Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate Crodateric CAS 50, Croda Additional Functions: Anti-aging
Rice Bran BT, Bio Component Research Additional Functions: Foam Booster/
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Stabilizer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Hair Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
inflammatory, Antioxidant Colorant/Dye, Hair Conditioner SCB Macadamia Oil, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Water (aqua), Phospholipids, Stearic Acid, Mannitol, Cellulose, Iron Oxides, Charcoal wrinkle, Oil Absorbent, Skin Healing, Skin
Palmitic Acid Powder, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Smoothing
Simulskin, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Additional Functions: Anti-aging Lipobead Detox with Charcoal, Vantage Ormenis Multicaulis Wax
Specialty Ingredients Chamomile Flowers Wax, Premier
Water (aqua), Propanediol, Pisum Sativum Additional Functions: Oil Absorbent, Skin Specialties, Inc
(Pea) Extract Protectant Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Natriance Self-hydrate, Ashland Specialty Stimulant
Ingredients Oleth-3 Phosphate
Crodafos 03a, Croda Superoxide Dismutase
Water (aqua), Tartaric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Biocell SOD, Lonza Consumer Care
Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Metabisulfite, Shampoo Additional Functions: Antioxidant
Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Saxifraga
Sarmentosa Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Oleth-10 Phosphate Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Alteromonas
Fruit Extract, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract Crodafos 010A, Croda Ferment Extract
Dermawhite WF, BASF Corporation Additional Functions: Co-emulsifier, Gellant, Abyssine, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Skin Hair Cleanser/Shampoo, Solubilizer, Wetting Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory,
Lightening Agent Skin Healing

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate Water (aqua), Crataegus Oxyacantha Stem


SKIN CLARIFIER Cithrol 10GTIS, Seatons (Croda Group) Extract
Additional Functions: Cooling Agent, Skin NAB Hawthorn Extract, Lonza Consumer
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Cooling/Soothing, Skin Smoothing Care
Shea butter, Molash Baruch LLC
Additional Functions: Anti-wrinkle, Hair Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Glycerin, Water Water (aqua), Epilobium Angustifolium
Repair, Skin Healing, Skin Protectant, Skin (aqua) Extract
Smoothing Phytofleur Frangipani, Croda Defenscalp, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Hair Cleanser/ Additional Functions: Dandruff Treatment,
Shea Butter, Molash Baruch LLC Shampoo, Skin Cooling/Soothing Hair Anti-aging, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo,
Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Hair Conditioner, Hair Repair, Skin Healing,
Hair Repair, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
CustoNatural Foaming Wheat, Custom
Glycerin, Water (aqua), Alcohol, Cimicifuga Ingredients, Inc. Water (aqua), Petasites Japonicus Root
Racemosa Root Extract Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Foaming Extract
Phytessence Cimicifuga, Croda Agent/Foamer, Hair Cleanser/Shampoo NAB Butterbur Extract, Lonza Consumer
Care
Water (aqua), Betula Alba Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Powder
Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate ParaNatural Chardonnay Powder, Paradigm Water (aqua), Solidago Virgaurea
White Birch BT, Bio Component Research Science Inc (Goldenrod) Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Additional Functions: Skin Healing Songa, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
inflammatory, Skin Lightening Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
wrinkle, Skin Healing, Skin Smoothing
SKIN COOLING/SOOTHING
SKIN CLEANSER
Algae Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract SKIN HEALING
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate NAB Arnica Extract PF, Lonza Consumer
SCT134, T.H. Hilson Co. Care Allantoin
Additional Functions: Surfactant-Nonionic Additional Functions: Anti-aging Allantoin, Clariant Int. Ltd.
Additional Functions: Skin Protectant

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Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Emblica Officinalis Fruit Extract Extract
PSI Green Tea Extract 45%, Paradigm Amla, American Private Label Vitachelox, Indena SpA
Science Inc Additional Functions: Anti-inflammatory, Additional Functions: Chelating Agent
Oxygen Carrier
Centella Asiatica Extract Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, Alteromonas
Centellin CG, Sabinsa Corp. Glycerin, Water (aqua), Chrysanthellum Ferment Extract
Indicum Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Exo-P, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Collagen Amino Acids Extract Additional Functions: Anti-aging
CustoNatural Collagen AA, Custom Lanacityn, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Ingredients, Inc. Additional Functions: Anti-aging Water (aqua), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Soy
Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium
Hair Repair, Skin Smoothing Hexylresorcinol Sorbate
Synovea HR, Sytheon Ltd. Dynachondrine ISR, Ashland Specialty
Water (aqua), Butylene Glycol, sh- Additional Functions: Antibacterial, Anti- Ingredients
Hexapeptide-2 inflammatory, Skin Lightening Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Stimulant
Actopontine, Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Skin Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea Ferment Water (aqua), Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Soy
Smoothing Filtrate Protein
CustoNatural Bamboo, Custom Ingredients, Natriance Solar Defense, Ashland Specialty
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Soybean Inc. Ingredients
Extract Additional Functions: Hair Conditioner, Additional Functions: Anti-aging
Phytoneomatrix, Ashland Specialty Lubricant, Silicone Replacement
Ingredients Yeast Extract, Hydrogenated Starch
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Marrubium Vulgare Extract Hydrolysate
wrinkle, Skin Protectant Citystem, Sederma Drieline, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Additional Functions: Skin Smoothing
Water (aqua), Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Yeast Pentapeptide-59, Hydrogenated Lecithin,
Protein Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Actopontine YST, Ashland Specialty Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, SKIN TREATMENT-CHAPPED
Ingredients Maltodextrin, Water (aqua) SKIN
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Skin SensAmone P5, Mibelle Biochemistry
Smoothing Camellia Sinensis Extract
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Water
(aqua) Green tea extract, Naturalin Bio-Resources
NatraGem E145 NP, Croda Co Ltd
SKIN PROTECTANT Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Additional Functions: Emulsifier
inflammatory, Antimicrobial, Antioxidant,
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil Anti-wrinkle, Oxidant, Skin Lightening, Skin
Baoban Oil, International Cosmetic Science Sesame Oil, International Cosmetic Science Smoothing, Skin Treatment-Chapped Skin
Centre A/S Centre A/S
Additional Functions: Anti-aging Additional Functions: Anti-aging,
Antioxidant TONER
Butyloctyl Salicylate, Titanium Dioxide,
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Extract
Methoxycrylene, Triceteareth-4 Phosphate, Fructose, Glycerin, Water (aqua), Aesculus
Apolluskin, Silab Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Extract
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica
Additional Functions: Anti-aging Gatuline Link n Lift, Gattefoss SAS
HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX Plus, The Hallstar
Company Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti-
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Delivery wrinkle, Skin Smoothing
Synastol TC, Sytheon Ltd.
System, Photo-stabilizer, Sunscreen-UVB Additional Functions: Anti-aging, Anti- Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbityl Laurate
inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-wrinkle Arlacel LC, Croda
Butyloctyl Salicylate, Titanium Dioxide,
Triceteareth-4 Phosphate, Dimethicone Additional Functions: Emulsifier, Skin
Titanium Dioxide, Silica, Dimethicone
Crosspolymer, Silica Smoothing
Parsol TX (proposed), DSM Nutritional
HallBrite EZ-FLO TDX, The Hallstar Products
Company Additional Functions: Sunscreen-UVB
Additional Functions: Delivery System,
Sunscreen-UVB Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Oil
Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract, Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals
Propylene Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Additional Functions: Antioxidant
(Sunflower) Sprout Extract, Sodium
Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Water (aqua) Trimethoxybenzylidene Pentanedione
InfraGuard, Mibelle Biochemistry Synoxyl HSS, Sytheon Ltd.
Additional Functions: Anti-aging Additional Functions: SPF Booster
C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Camellia
Wacker-Belsil CDM 3526VP, Wacker Chemie Sinensis Leaf Extract, Quercus Robur Bark
AG

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 55


SKIN CARE FORMULAS
Moisture Rescue Eco-conscious Body Cream Benzyl Alcohol 0.50
(AAK) Potassium Sorbate 0.15
Sodium Benzoate 0.20
This fresh gel-cream has a light texture and is designed to soften the entire body. Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 0.75
Instead of low-spreading mineral oil, it is formulated with our highly stable, rapeseed- D. Glyceryl Stearate 1.00
based Lipex Bassol C. Easy to apply, this balm is quickly absorbed by the skin to Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (Cutina FS 45, BASF SE) 2.00
replenish moisture and deliver softness with no tacky feel. Consumers can use it in Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50
the morning to kick-start their day or to rebalance skin after a workout. Additionally,
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters (Lipex SheaLight, AAK) 7.00
it is as kind to the planet as it is to skin; natural ingredients (chemically processed
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex SheaSoft, AAK) 11.00
agro-ingredients [CPAI]): 95%.
C15-19 Alkane 3.00
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w E. Zea Mays (Corn) Starch 3.50
Glycerin 7.00 Fragrance (parfum) 0.60
Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum
(and) Pullulan (Ecogel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.50 Procedure: Blend A and add to B. Heat AB and C together, and separately heat D to
B. Citric Acid 0.10 75C. Merge ABCD and start mixing with medium speed. Homogenize. Cool to 30C
Benzyl Alcohol 0.50 while stirring. Add E to ABCD and mix well.
Potassium Sorbate 0.15
Sodium Benzoate 0.20
Distarch Phosphate 3.00
Low pH Exfoliating Lotion
C. Olus Oil (Lipex Bassol C, AAK) 7.00 (Akzo Nobel Chemicals B.V.)
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters (Lipex SheaLight, AAK) 6.00 This moisturizing formula exfoliates and rejuvenates the skin and has a unique, con-
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 3.00 ditioned after feel.
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 2.00
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.75
Methylparaben 0.20
Propylene Glycol 2.70
Procedure: Premix A and mix vigorously. Add A to B. Prepare C. Heat AB and C sepa-
B. Potato Starch Modified 2.00
rately to 75C. Merge AB with C and start mixing with medium speed. Mix continuously
for ABC to be hot for about 25 min. for hydration of phospholipids. Homogenize. Cool
C. Glyceryl Stearate 1.75
to 30C while stirring. Add D to ABC. Homogenize. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2.50
Cetyl Alcohol 1.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2.50
Natural Glow Eco-conscious Face Polish Myristyl Myristate 0.85
(AAK) Propylparaben 0.10
D. Lactic Acid 7.25
This multitasking skin cleanser dissolves and removes skin impurities, gently exfoli-
Sodium Lactate 14.35
ates the skins surface, stimulates microcirculation and leaves the skin radiant and
glowing while delivering nourishing plant-based lipids. The formula features Akogel
as a sustainable alternative to petrolatum gels and is suitable for all skin types. Apply Procedure: Disperse B into A and heat to 80C. Hold for 20 min. Combine C and heat
to wet skin using circular movements and then simply rinse off. Purifies well without to 80C. Add C to AB at 80C. Mix for 10 min. Cool to 60-65C. Add D to batch and
foaming; natural ingredients (CPAI): 96%. mix thoroughly. Cool to 40C at low speed. Adjust final pH to 3.6-3.8, if necessary.

A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w


Glycerin 5.00 Non-tacky Daily Wear Moisturizer
Citric Acid 0.15 (AkzoNobel, Personal Care)
Benzyl Alcohol 0.50 This daily wear moisturizer uses Dermacryl E polymer for superior wear of the formula-
Potassium Sorbate 0.15 tion on the skin. The combination of this polymer with Dry-Flo PC starch helps alleviate
Sodium Benzoate 0.20 any tackiness associated with traditional o/w emulsion formulations, leaving the skin
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate 1.00 smooth and comfortable.
Xanthan Gum 1.00
B. Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (Akogel, AAK) 7.00 A. Water (aqua) 61.15% w/w
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 3.00 Glycerin 7.00
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters (Lipex SheaLight, AAK) 3.00 Butylene Glycol 4.00
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 3.00 Propylene Glycol 2.00
Glyceryl Stearate 2.50 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, schulke) 0.80
C. Polylactic Acid 3.50 Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose 0.15
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.60 B. Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda) 2.00
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil (Lipovol A, Vantage
Procedure: In A, premix biogums with glycerol and add them to water, while vigor- Specialty Ingredients) 3.00
ously mixing. Heat A and B separately to 75C. Merge phases and start mixing Isopropyl Myristate (Dermol IPM, Alzo International Inc.) 5.00
with medium speed. Homogenize. Cool to 30C while stirring. Add C to AB. Blend Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (Floramac Macadamia
thoroughly. Add D. Mix well. Oil, Floratech) 3.00
Dimethicone 1.00
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Lipovol SUN,
Winter Comfort Eco-conscious Hand Cream Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 3.00
(AAK) C. Carbomer (Carbopol 940 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
Long, cold winters can be brutal on the skin, causing dryness, roughness and Materials, Inc.) 0.20
discomfort. Formulated with a rich, natural emollient base featuring Lipex SheaSoft, D. Triethanolamine 0.30
this cream delivers softness rebalancing and acts like a glove, sealing in moisture to Water (aqua) 1.00
rebalance and rehydrate the skin. Leaves even the driest hands looking and feeling E. Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer (Dermacryl E Polymer, AkzoNobel) 4.40
soothed, softened and restored; natural ingredients (CPAI): 97%. F. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry-Flo PC,
AkzoNobel, Personal Care) 2.00
A. Xanthan Gum 0.50% w/w
100.00
Glycerin 5.00
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Procedure: In the main kettle, add everything but the rheology modifier of A and
C. Citric Acid 0.10 homogenize while heating to 75-80C. Sprinkle in rheology modifier under moderate

56 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


speed to ensure uniform hydration. In a side kettle, combine B and heat to 75-80C Anti-acne Gel
under moderate propeller mixing. Once A and B reach temps within five degrees of
(Ashland Specialty Ingredients)
each other, add B into A slowly with moderate speed homogenization. Mix for 10 min
at 75-80C. Then begin cooling the batch to 60 C, under low homogenization. When This formula helps purify and exfoliate skin, and prevents the development of mod-
the batch has reached 60C, sprinkle in C and homogenize at 4,000 rpm for 10 min erate to severe acne. With antibacterial and sebo-regulating poperties, the formula
until hydrated. Pre-mix D and slowly add to the batch. Homogenize for 5 min or until improves deposition and efficacy, and minimizes side effects such as discomfort,
homogeneous. Add E and mix for another 5 min or until homogeneous. Cool batch stinging and redness.
to 45C. At 45C, sprinkle in F and homogenize into batch at low speed for 10 min or
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
until uniform. Adjust pH to 6.9-7.4. Switch the batch to a sweep blade at the lowest
B. Salicylic Acid 2.00
mixing speed (~20 rpm) and cool completely to RT. Drop the batch.
Alcohol Denat. 40.00
C. PVP (FlexiThix, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 4.00
Acne Clarifying Cleanser D. C12-15 Alkyl Lactate (Ceraphyl 41, Ashland
(Ashland Specialty Ingredients) Specialty Ingredients) 3.00
Dimethicone/Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
This cleanser helps to clear clogged pores with improved salicylic acid deposition
Crosspolymer (DC 3901 Liquid Satin Blend,
and less skin irritation.
Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
A. Water (aqua) 50.45% w/w E. Water (aqua) 0.50
Glycerin 3.00 Sodium Hydroxide 0.07
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Benecel HPMC, Aqualon/ F. Water (aqua)/Glycerin/Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid
Hercules) 0.20 Copolymer/PVM/MA Copolymer (Lubrajel Oil Free
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate 30.00 Hydrogel, Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 2.50
B. Salicylic Acid 2.00 HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (proposed)/
C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen, Ashland Silica (BPD-500, Kobo Products Inc.) 0.10
Specialty Ingredients) 0.75 Butylene Glycol (and) 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid (and)
D. C12-15 Alkyl Lactate (Ceraphyl 41, Ashland 1,10-Decanediol (and) Sebacic Acid (Acnacidol BG,
Specialty Ingredients) 0.50 Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 3.00
E. Cocamidopropyl Betaine 12.00
F. CI 16035 (FD&C RED N40 07700-C, Sensient Procedure: In a side beaker, combine B until clear at RT, then add it to A. In the main
Cosmetic Technologies) 0.35 beaker, sprinkle C slowly into AB while increasing the speed of agitation. Mix well
CI 15985 (Unicert Yellow 08006-J, Sensient Cosmetic until smooth, while keeping the bulk at RT. At RT, add D into ABC and mix well. In
Technologies) 0.75 a side beaker, prepare E and mix well with a magnetic stirrer. At RT, add E into the
100.00 main vessel. At RT, add F one by one and mix well between each addition. Stop at
25C; typical properties: appearance = semi-translucent gel cream; pH = 3.003.50;
Procedure: At RT, premix A. Add to B and mix. Add C and mix. Add D to ABC. Con- viscosity (D1) = 9,00012,000 cps (Brookfield RVT/Spindle A/5 RPM/1 min/25C).
tinue mixing until clear. Add E while mixing until the batch is clear. Add F while mixing
until clear. Add G and mix until uniform and clear. Add H and mix until uniform. Stop Overnight Hydration and Repair Serum
at 25C; typical properties: appearance = clear orange gel; pH = 3.303.90; viscosity
= 16,00030,000 cps (Brookfield RVT/Spindle D/5 RPM/1 min/25C). (Biosil Technologies Inc.)
This elegant formulation is designed as a night serum to complement the skins repair
process, eliminate damage and revitalize it by morning. PAE Complex Hydration and
Acne Spot Cream Repair provides multifunctional benefits: mild skin exfoliation, moisturization and skin
(Ashland Specialty Ingredients) repair. Ocea Care, which is a part of PAE Complex Hydration and Repair, utilizes the
Benzoyl peroxide, effective on P. acnes growth and inflammation, is known to de- brown seaweed Laminaria saccharina to target skin repair.
stabilize formulation viscosity after the release of peroxide at high temperatures. This A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
formula, with other ingredients from Ashland, may help to avoid formula breakdown. EDTA 0.10
A. Water (aqua) 82.80% w/w Glycerin 4.00
Glycerin 1.00 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.30
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose (PolySurf, Aqualon/Hercules) 0.50 Propylene Glycol 3.00
Carbomer 0.35 B. Glycerol Monostearate SE (proposed) 0.75
B. Glyceryl Stearate (and) Laureth-23 (Cerasynt 945, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate 0.40
Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 2.00 PEG-100 Stearate 0.40
Ceteareth-20 (Eumulgin B-2, BASF SE) 1.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.40
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride (Syncrowax HGLC, Croda Europe Ltd.) 0.60 Cetyl Alcohol 0.40
Behenyl Alcohol 1.00 Polysorbate 80 0.40
C. Triethanolamine 0.30 Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00
D. Dimethicone 1.00 Dimethicone 2.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (Si-Tec RE-100, Ashland Specialty C. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Glycerin (and) Phytic
Ingredients) 2.00 Acid (and) Laminaria Saccharina Extract (PAE Complex
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (Lubrajel II XD, Hydration And Repair, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 15.15
Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 1.00 Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
E. Benzoyl Peroxide (Curoxyl 42 Gel, Vantage Specialty (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG,
Ingredients) 5.95 SEPPIC) 2.00
F. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen, Ashland Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and)
Specialty Ingredients) 0.50 Methylparaben (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Propylparaben
100.00 (Phenonip, Clariant Int. Ltd.) 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.06
Procedure: In a beaker, weigh water and glycerin of A and mix. Sprinkle in PolySurf Water (aqua) (and) CI 42090 (FD&C Blue No. 1, 0.1%,
and homogenize. Sprinkle in Carbopol 980 and continue to homogenize. Heat batch Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 0.03
to 80-85C while homomixing. In a separate beaker, combine B and heat to 80-85C Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (and) Tris
while mixing. Add B to A and continue to homogenize for 5 min until uniform. Add (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) Citrate (Tinogard Q,
TEA to batch and continue homomixing. Cool batch to 45C and change to sweep BASF SE) 0.05
mixing. Premix D and add to main beaker. Continue mixing while cooling to RT. Add
E at 30C and mix until homogenous. Add F and mix to RT. Stop at 25C. Typical Procedure: Combine A with mixing. Combine B, mixing and heating to 60-70C until
properties: appearance = smooth cream; pH = 5.305.90; viscosity = 65,00085,000 it is clear. Add B into A with mixing. Stop heating. Cool batch to 40C. Add C one
cps (Brookfield RVT/Spindle D/5 RPM/1 min/25C). by one with mixing.

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 57


Super Gentle Shower Gel Comforting Facial Serum for Sensitive Skin
(Biosil Technologies Inc.) (Chemyunion Quimica Ltda)
This gentle shower gel leaves the skin clean and soft to the touch. BioPlex Cetylsil A. C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (and) Polyacrylamide
S-PF significantly reduces any irritation of the surfactant system and provides softness, (Sepigel 305, SEPPIC) 3.50% w/w
moisture and cushion, making it suitable for ultra-sensitive skin. B. Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract (and) Carnosine (and) Alanyl
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w Glutamine (Relievene SK, Chemyunion Quimica Ltda) 0.50
Disodium EDTA 0.10 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside 1.00
Glycerin 3.00 Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DC 9040,
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate 55.00 Dow Corning Corp.) 10.00
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Amphosol HCG, Stepan Co.) 10.00 Cyclomethicone 10.00
B. Sodium Chloride 2.00 C12-13 Pareth-3/C12-23 Pareth-23/Divinyldimethicone/
C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Dimethicone Copolymer (Dow Corning HMW 2220
schulke) 1.00 Nonionic Emulsion, Dow Corning Corp.) 5.00
Cetyl Triethylmonium Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate C. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
(BioPlex Cetylsil S-PF, Biosil Technologies Inc.) 5.00 Potassium Sorbate 0.30
Red 40 0.10 D. Phenoxyethanol 0.70
Fragrance (parfum) 0.50 E. Lactic Acid qs

Procedure: Combine A and mix until clear. Add B to build viscosity. Mix until clear and Procedure: Under mixing, combine B in order. Add B to A and homogenize. Slowly
desired viscosity is achieved. Add ingredients of C one by one with mixing. add C to the others with moderate stirring. Add D to batch. Mix until completely
homogenized. Adjust pH with E. Homogenize well.

Bye Redness Mist


(Centerchem Inc.)
Intensive Moisturizing Cream
(Chemyunion Quimica Ltda)
Centerchems Bye Redness Mist formula includes Agascalm and Hydromanil HGL
MS, which are manufactured by Provital, S.A.; Centerchem, Inc. is the exclusive A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
North American distributor. Disodium EDTA 0.10
Potassium Sorbate 0.30
A. Water (aqua) 83.03% w/w Propylene Glycol 3.00
Panthenol 1.50 B. Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68,
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (and) Sodium Hydroxide (and) SEPPIC) 3.00
Water (aqua) (Dissolvine GL-47-S, AkzoNobel Personal Care) 0.15 Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral) Oil (and) Lanolin Alcohol (and)
Glycerin (and) Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate (and) Paraffin (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Unibase HA, Chemyunion
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract (and) Quimica Ltda) 2.00
Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Extract (and) Populus Vegetable Oil (and) Lecithin (and) Palm Alcohol (and)
Tremuloides Bark Extract (and) Gluconolactone Phytosteryl Canolate (Sensactive VEG, Chemyunion
(NataPres, PCCA) 1.50 Quimica Ltda) 2.00
Pentylene Glycol 2.50 Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00
Propanediol 3.00 Cetyl Palmitate 2.00
B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.15 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Zea Mays
C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.17 (Corn) Oil (and) Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
D. Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (and) Olea Europaea
(and) Propanediol (Agascalm, Provital SA) 2.00 (Olive) Fruit Oil (Omega Plus, Chemyunion Quimica Ltda) 2.00
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter 2.00
Spinosa Gum (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum C. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
(Hydromanil HGL MS, Provital SA) 4.00 Copolymer/Squalane/Polysorbate 60 (Simulgel NS, SEPPIC) 0.50
PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate 2.00 D. Phenoxyethanol 0.70
100.00 Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol (Silicon DC 1403,
Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Procedure: In main vessel, blend A separately with gentle mixing until mixture is uni-
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Piptadenia
form and transparent. Disperse B with high shear mixing. Adjust pH with C (20% aq).
Colubrina Peel Extract (Aquasense, Chemyunion
Add D individually. Mix until uniform before next addition.
Quimica Ltda) 1.00

Squalane Skin Care Procedure: Separately heat A and B at 8085C. Add B to A. Maintain temp for 10
(Centerchem Inc.) min under moderate stirring. Stop heating and keep homogenizing until temp reaches
60C. Add C to AB. Mix until homogenized. Add D in order at 45C. Homogenize.
A. Water (aqua) 78.70% w/w
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.25
B. Glycerin 2.00 Anti-Inflammatory Cream Gel for Oily Skin
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol (CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
(Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 1.00 A. Water (aqua) 83.26% w/w
Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract 5.00 Sodium Polyacrylate 1.60
C. Squalane (Neossance Squalane, Amyris Inc.) 10.00 Propanediol 3.00
PEG-40 Stearate 2.75 B. Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F Forte, CLR Chemisches
D. Sodium Hydroxide (and) Water (aqua) (NaOH, Spectrum Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
Chemical Mfg. Corp.) 0.30 Tocopherol 0.02
100.00 C. Water (aqua) (and) Taraktogenos Kurzii Seed Oil (and) Nigella
Sativa Seed Oil (and) Leptospermum Scoparium Oil (and)
Procedure: In main vessel, add A with mixing and mix until uniform. Add B into main
Potassium Lauroyl Wheat Amino Acids (and) Palm
vessel. Mix until uniform and begin heating to 65-70C. Combine C in a separate
Glycerides (and) Capryloyl Glycine (and) Magnolia
vessel and heat to 65-70C. Add C slowly into main vessel with moderate mixing.
Grandiflora Bark Extract (Cutipure CLR, CLR Chemisches
Mix for 10 min. Homogenize briefly and then begin cooling. When batch has reached
40C, add D to neutralize pH to 5.5-6.5; increase amount as needed to be within this Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00
range. QS with water.

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Water (aqua) (and) Lactose (and) Milk Protein (and) Bifida (Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Azelis UK
Ferment Lysate (ProBioBalance CLR NP, CLR Chemisches Life Sciences) 0.20
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 5.00 C. Water (aqua) 2.00
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Benzoic Acid Sodium Hydroxide 0.12
(Verstatil BOB, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.80 D. Water (aqua) 0.50
D. Water (aqua) qs Maltodextrin (and) Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Extract
Sodium Hydroxide qs (Sebuless, Sederma) 0.50
E. Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxyethanol, TRI-K Industries) 1.00
Procedure: Mix A and stir until completely dispersed. Add B under stirring. Add C one 100.00
after the other under stirring. Adjust pH value to 6.0-6.5 with D.
Procedure: Combine water and glycerin in A and heat to 75C while blade mixing;
slowly sprinkle in carbomer and mix for at least 10 min. In a separate vessel, combine
Skin Renewal Treatment B; mix until homogenous and heat to 75C. Under fast blade mixing, add B to A. Add
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) C and increase speed of blade mixing. Switch to sweep blade and cool to 40C. Pre-
A. Water (aqua) 77.50% w/w mix D and add into main vessel. Add E. Mix until uniform.
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Benzoic Acid
(Verstatil BOB, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.80 Moisturize and Soften Handwash
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol
Ultrez 21 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.50
(Croda)
In this formula, Duraquench IQ SA works in conjunction with Arlasilk PTM to deliver
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (Hispagel 200 NS,
a perceptible skin softening and moisturizing effects, while Crodasinic LS30 NP and
BASF SE) 5.00 Crodateric CAB 30 gently cleanse the hands in a luxuriously mild formulation.
Water (aqua) (and) Poria Cocos Root Extract (and)
Phragmites Communis Extract (SyriCalm CLR (PC), CLR
Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00 A. Water (aqua) qs to 100% w/w
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate (ProRenew Complex CLR, CLR B. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Crodasinic LS30, LS353 and LS95, Croda
Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 3.00 Europe Ltd.) 20.0
B. Water (aqua) 9.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Water (aqua) (Crodateric CAB-30, Croda
Lactose (and) Milk Protein (Modukine, CLR Chemisches Europe Ltd.) 20.0
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH) 0.50 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20.0
C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.20 Glycol Stearate 2.0
100.00 Cetyl Alcohol (and) Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
(and) Cetyl Stearate (and) Stearic Acid (Duraquench IQ SA, Croda) 1.0
Procedure: Mix A and B separately and stir until completely soaked. Add B to A while Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate (and) Water (aqua)
stirring. Adjust pH value to 6.5 and stir until uniform. (Arlasilk PTM, Croda) 1.0
Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Seed Oil (Seatons Grapefruit Seed Oil, Seatons
(Croda Group)) 0.2
Deep Moisturizing Creme C. PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Co-
(Colonial Chemical Inc.) camide (and) Water (aqua) (Versathix, Croda) 3.0
This cream is a light, elegant formulation that offers long-lasting skin conditioning D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, schulke) 0.4
benefits. Lactic Acid qs
Procedure: Heat A and B separately to 80C. Add A to B with stirring. At 55C, add
A. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.20% w/w C. Once cool, add D and adjust pH if necessary to pH 6.5.
Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate 2.50
Titanium Dioxide 0.50
Water (aqua) 85.30 Clear and Smooth Hydrating Cream
B. Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 (Croda)
Myristyl Myristate 3.00 Consumers can improve the overall appearance of their skin and reduce acne
Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 lesions by more than 50% in just four weeks by using Crodas three-step
Lanolin Alcohol 0.50 system for clearer and smoother skin. In this third and final step, salicyclic
Dimethicone 1.00 acid acts to further clear blemishes by unclogging pores and promoting cell
C. Pigments qs turnover. Naturally active extracts in Chromocare moisturize skin, even skin
Fragrance (parfum) qs tone and rejuvenate skin. This gel lotion is cooling upon application and
Preservatives qs leaves skin feeling soft, smooth and well-moisturized without leaving any
100.00 residues.

Procedure: Heat A with agitation to 60C. Separately heat B to 60C. Homogenize A. Sodium Hydroxide 0.28% w/w
B in A for a sufficient time to ensure good emulsification. Stir and cool to 45C. Add Water (aqua) 78.72
C to batch. Butylene Glycol 4.0
Butylene Glycol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract (and)
Anti-Blemish, Soothing Light Emulsion Rabdosia Rubescens Extract (Chromocare , Sederma) 3.0
B. Dimethyl Isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI, Croda) 2.0
(Croda)
Salicylic Acid 0.5
This light-weight serum, especially formulated for oily and blemish-prone skin, provides C. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Crodamol GTCC, Croda) 3.0
outstanding oil control when used twice daily. Sebuless has proven benefits for a num- Polydiethysiloxane 3.0
ber of trouble spots plaguing consumers with oily skin. Sebuless reduces inflammatory Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5
blemishes by half in one month, while also significantly fading the appearance of red D. Polyquaternium-37 (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6
spots and limiting the accumulation of dead skin cells that leads to clogged pores. (and) Water (aqua) (VisCaress HPD, Croda) 5.0
A. Water (aqua) 88.23% w/w
Carbomer 0.45 Procedure: Combine A and heat to 60C while blade mixing. In a separate
Glycerin 2.00 vessel, combine B; mix until homogenous and heat to 60C. Add B to A;
B. Isostearyl Isostearate (and) Decyl Isostearate (Crodamol SSA, maintain temp. In a separate vessel, combine C; mix until homogenous and
Croda Europe Ltd.) 3.00 add to AB with fast mixing. Add D with fast mixing; when thickens to gel,
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda Europe Ltd.) 2.00 switch to sweep blade. Cool with slow sweep mixing.

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Acne Treatment Solution Clear Antiperspirant Roll-On Solution
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products) (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
A. SD Alcohol 40 40.00% w/w Smooth-feeling, non-sticky, quick-drying opaque and clear roll-on antiperspirant for-
B. Salicylic Acid (Salicylic Acid USP, The Hallstar Company) 0.50 mulations, such as the following, can be obtained using Zemea Propanediol.
C. Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio A. Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate 5.00% w/w
Products) 10.00 Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
D. Water (aqua) 40.00 Products) 10.00
Glycolic Acid (DuPont Glypure, DuPont) 5.00 B. Fragrance (parfum) 0.50
E. Triethanolamine qs C. Water (aqua) 69.50
F. Aloe Barbadensis Gel (Aloe Vera Gel Dec 1X, 10X, 40X, D. Aluminum Chlorohydrate 15.00
Reg 1X, 10X, 40X, Terry Laboratories LLC) 1.00 100.00
Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare Polymer JR-30M, Amerchol Corp.) 0.10
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 0.30 Procedure: Combine A in a beaker and mix well. Add B into A with stirring. Add C into
G. Fragrance (parfum) qs AB and mix homogeneously. The mixture should be clear at RT. Finally, add D slowly
Dyes qs into ABC with mixing until completely dissolved.
H. Triethanolamine qs
I. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Conventional Opaque Antiperspirant Roll-On Emulsion
Procedure: Add A to the main mixing vessel and begin mixing slowly. Add B and mix
(DuPont Tate & Lyle BProducts)
until dissolved. Add C to AB and mix until clear and soluble. In a separate vessel, Smooth-feeling, non-sticky, quick-drying opaque and clear roll-on antiperspirant
prepare D. Adjust pH of D with E. Add F to DE with continued mixing. Gentle heating formulations, such as the following additional example, can be obtained using Zemea
may be necessary to fully hydrate. Add DEF to ABC with propeller mixing. Mix until Propanediol.
clear. Do not exceed 30C. Add G to batch as desired. Adjust final product to pH
A. Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00% w/w
3.84.2 with H at 99%. Add adjusted percentage of I to 100%. Notes: Other suitable
alkalis may be used such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonium
Steareth-2 2.00
hydroxide. Prepare in equipment capable of alcohol preparations using an air-driven Steareth-21 2.00
propeller mixer. B. Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Products) 7.00
Silica 0.20
Broad Spectrum, Water Resistant, SPF 25+ Water (aqua) 68.80
Daily Facial Moisturizer C. Aluminum Chlorohydrate 15.00
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products) 100.00

This light-feeling water-in-oil (W/O) formulation spreads well, covers evenly and has Procedure: Add A into a clean beaker and heat until the wax is completely melted.
built-in water resistance, enhanced by the use of two emollients with barrier charac- Prepare B in another beaker and heat to 70C. Add A into B with stirring. Remove
teristics. Combining organic and inorganic sunscreen actives, along with placement mixture from hot plate and continue to stir. Once the emulsion is formed, add C slowly
of the actives in both the aqueous and emollient phases, allows for a high SPF with a into the emulsion and mix until completely dissolved. Transfer the emulsion to a roll-on
relatively low level of active. The formula achieves protection beyond broad spectrum container when it cools to RT.
with a critical wave length of 377.8 nm. The success of the formulation is attributed to
Zemea Propanediol keeping the water-soluble actives in solution through the evapora-
tion process when the product is applied to the skin. Deodorant Stick
A. Water (aqua) 54.60% w/w (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) This colorless/white and opaque deodorant stick is stable for more than three months
Glycerin (Spectrastat, INOLEX) 0.80 at 20C, 40C and 4C.
Benzophenone-4 2.00
A. Water (aqua) 18.00% w/w
B. Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle
Bio Products) 10.00
Bio Products) 45.00
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232, EMD
Glycerin 20.00
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 3.00
B. Sodium Hydroxide 9.50
C. Triethanolamine qs
C. Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (Palmera B1802, KLK Oleo) 6.00
D. Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (aqua) (and) Polyglyceryl-2
D. Ethylhexylglycerin 0.75
Caprate (and) Sucrose Stearate (and) Simmondsia
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.75
Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (and) Stearic Acid (and)
100.00
Alumina (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Squalane
(Solaveil XT-40W, Croda) 3.00 Procedure: Heat A to 8595C and stir until clear. Add and dissolve B. Add C to AB
E. Acetylated Hydrogenated Vegetable Glyceride 15.00 little by little and stir until completely dissolved. Add solution of D. Add and dissolve
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 2.50 E. Poor into molds at 8085C.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina
(Solaveil AT-300, Croda) 3.00 Ecocert Compliant Natural Body Wash
Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
A. Water (aqua) 48.73% w/w
(Xperse 201, EverZinc) 3.00
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer 3.00
Products) 3.00
F. Silica Dimethyl Silylate 0.10
B. Coco-Glucoside (and) Sodium Coco-sulfate (Surfacare AGS,
100.00
Galaxy Surfactants Limited) 46.20
Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Lauryl Alcohol (Cetiol LDO, BASF SE) 0.50
Procedure: Add B to A. Add C until AB is clear. Add D with propeller stirring. Add
C. Benzyl Alcohol 0.50
ABCD to E very slowly with propeller stirring. Add F with propeller stirring. Homog-
enize until glossy.
D. Sodium Phytate 0.25
E. Citric Acid 0.82
100.00

Procedure: Mix A together. Mix B together and add to A. Add C to AB. Add D to ABC.
Adjust pH to 5.05.5 with E. Add sodium chloride as needed for viscosity of 4,000 cps.

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Clear Deodorant Stick bilized by a PEG-free emulsifier, offers inherent water resistance. The emollient phase
contains both volatile and solvent/emollient components, generating light application
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
properties and the ability to incorporate other organic sunscreen actives.
Zemea Propanediol used at 60% w/w shortens the time for this formula to solidify
and results in a firmer deodorant stick. Here, combining Zemea Propanediol and a A. Water (aqua) 39.80% w/w
unique solubilizer provides greater stick clarity at RT and enables higher fragrance Propanediol 10.00
loads without the use of triclosan. Benzophenone-4 10.00
B. Cyclopentasiloxane 15.00
A. Water (aqua) 16.00% w/w C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 10.00
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Zano 10 Plus,
Products) 60.00 EverZinc) 10.00
Sodium Hydroxide 9.50 TMP Lauryl Dimethicone (Silube 316, Siltech LLC) 5.00
B. Stearic Acid 6.00 C. Silica Dimethyl Silylate 0.20
C. Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate (Polyaldo 10-1-CC KFG, 100.00
Lonza Consumer Care) 8.00
D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.50 Procedure: Mix A until clear and uniform. Mix B with propeller stirring until uniform.
100.00 Slowly add A to B with fast propeller stirring. Add C to AB with propeller stirring.
Homogenize until glossy.
Procedure: Add A in a clean beaker and heat to 85-95C. Add B into A and con-
tinuously mix the mixture at high temp (85-95C). A clear solution will be observed.
Replace water loss from evaporation during heating and add C into the clear mixture. Moisturizing Body Lotion
Reduce the heat to 80C and add D with stirring. Transfer to packaging at 80C. (DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
A. Water (aqua) 74.45% w/w
Light Moisturizer Xanthan Gum 0.20
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products) B. Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Products) 3.00
This moisturizer features a combination of natural emulsifiers to provide a light skin Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
feel while delivering moisturization and prolonging it. Propanediol is used for its
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte
moisturization effects. Lauroyl lysine improves skin sensory characteristics during
GmbH) 0.10
rub-out when dry.
Caprylyl Glycol (Dermosoft Octiol, Dr. Straetmans
A. Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Oil 3.00% w/w Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.70
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Powder 3.00 C. Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and)
Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Phytocream 2000,
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate (Eldew SL-205, Ajinomoto Sinerga SpA) 5.00
North America, Inc.) 10.00 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 4.00
Phytosterol Behenyl/Octyldodecyl/Lauroyl Glutamate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 8.00
(proposed) (Eldew PS-306, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.) 1.50 Tocopherol (Dermofeel Toco 70, Dr. Straetmans Chemische
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 Produkte GmbH) 0.05
Myristyl Myristate (Liponate MM, Flake, Vantage Specialty D. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane (Xiameter
Ingredients) 1.00 PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Squalane 0.50 E. Trehalose (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (Trealix, Sinerga SpA) 2.00
Tocopherol 0.50 Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol (Geogard 221,
B. Water (aqua) 68.55 Lonza Consumer Care) 0.30
C. Xanthan Gum (Vanzan NF, Vanderbilt Minerals LLC) 0.25 Fragrance (parfum) (and) Limonene (and) Linalool (and)
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum HS, Vanderbilt Citral (and) Coumarin (Parfum Orange Ingwer Natura
Minerals LLC) 1.50 ko 0705-072, Dllberg Konzentra GmbH & Co. KG) 0.20
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (Hyalo-oligo, Kewpie Corporation) 0.05 100.00
D. Sodium PCA (Ajidew NL-50, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.) 1.00
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Procedure: Heat A to 75C and dissolve completely. Add B and dissolve. Heat C to
Products) 5.00 75C and add D before emulsifying. Emulsify CD to AB under stirring. Homogenize for
E. Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS-11P HS-11P(F), 1-2 min. Cool to RT under stirring. Add E below 40C; appearance = white emulsion;
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.) 1.30 pH = 5.0-6.0; viscosity ~5,000 mPas (Brookfield DV-II: spindle 6, speed 10) Storage
F. Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract (Kiwi (Actinidia Stability: three months at RT, 40C, 4C.
Chinensis) Fruit Extract, Carrubba Inc.) 0.10
Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto North America, Inc.) 1.00 Non-Alcoholic Moisturizing Facial Toner
G. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl
PE 9010, schulke) 0.75
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
H. Citric Acid qs A. Water (aqua) 75.00% w/w
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylisothiazolinone (Neolone PE,
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 78C with mixing. In a separate vessel, add B The Dow Chemical Company) 0.60
and heat to 78C with good mixing. Slowly dust C into B. Allow to mix at 78C until Dyes qs
completely hydrated and uniform. Add D to BC and mix until uniform. Add E to BCD Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
and mix until uniform. Add F to batch, all while maintaining mixing at 78C. Add A to Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate &
BCDEF at 78C, allowing to mix for 20 min. Cool. At 50C, add G. Cool to RT and Lyle Bio Products) 6.00
adjust to pH 5.5 0.2 with H. Sodium Hyaluronate 1.00
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Polysorbate 20
Water-in-Oil Broad Spectrum Protection (and) Octoxynol-11 (Solubilisant Gamma 2428,
Gattefoss SAS) 3.00
Daily Facial Moisturizer Algae Extract 1.00
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products) PEG-12 Dimethicone 1.25
This light-feeling formulation uses Zemea Propanediol to maintain solubility and fluid-
ity of the water-soluble sulisobenzone UVB/UVA absorber as the formulation water
evaporates on the skin. This provides moisturization benefits and enhances freeze/
thaw stability. The specially-coated zinc oxide is designed to offer the highest levels
of broad spectrum protection, transparency and dispersibility. The W/O platform, sta-

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Propylene Glycol (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) C. Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (ESP Organic Corn Starch,
Polysorbate 20 (and) Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Earth Supplied Products LLC) 3.00
Extract (and) Rosemary Extract (and) Chlorphenesin (and) D. Honey (ESP Organic Honey, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 0.50
Althaea Officinalis Extract (and) Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract (ESP Organic Agave Syrup,
Extract (and) Aloe Barbadensis Extract (6810717, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 3.00
DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products) 1.00 E. Coconut Acid (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Glycolic Acid 5.00 (and) Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Butter (and) Theobroma
Ammonium Hydroxide 4.50 Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean)
Oil (and) Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil (and) Simmondsia
Procedure: Maintain temp at 25C30C throughout entire procedure. Add water to Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (ESP Organic SafeBase 2,
a suitable vessel equipped with a cover and propeller mixer and begin stirring. Slowly Earth Supplied Products LLC) 14.00
add each ingredient individually in the order listed. Be sure each ingredient is dissolved Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (ESP Organic
before adding the next. Adjust ammonium hydroxide (28% USP) to pH 4.54.9 as Sunflower Oil, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 2.00
needed. Cover and continue mixing for 30 min after the last ingredient is added. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (ESP Organic
Safflower Oil (Hi-Oleic), Earth Supplied Products LLC) 6.00
Wipe & Forget Eye Makeup Remover F. Fragrance (parfum) (ESP SafeGuard L, Earth Supplied
Products LLC) 0.40
(DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products)
G. Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil (ESP Organic
This eye makeup remover formula produces a translucent to white gel. Non-irritating Lemon Oil, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 0.65
to eyes, it and offers soft cleansing. 100.00
A. Water (aqua) 80.90% w/w
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Procedure: In main vessel, add A and agitate at low speed. Mix in B and increase to
Products) 3.00 medium agitation, heating to 50C and mixing until completely dissolved. Increase
Water (aqua) (and) Methylisothiazolinone (Salicat MI 10, the speed to high and slowly add C to AB. Maintain the temp at 50C and mix until
completely dissolved. Add D to ABC. Continue mixing at the same speed while
Salicylates and Chemicals Pvt., Ltd.) 0.10
increasing heat to 60-65C. In a second vessel add E and mix and heat slowly to 55-
B. Caprylyl Methicone 4.00
60C. Pour E into ABCD while mixing at high speed, maintaining temp at 60C. Mix
Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone 4.00 for 15-20 min. Reduce agitation to medium and cool to below 30C. Add F to batch
Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate 6.00 and for 10 min minimum. Add G to batch and mix for 5 min. If necessary, adjust pH
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (and) Hydrogenated with NaOH solution to 6.9-7.2.
Polydecene (and) Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (Viscolam AT
100 EF, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
100.00 Facial Lotion with Long-Lasting Protection
(Floratech)
Procedure: Premix B. Add A little by little to B while stirring. Homogenize until a homo-
This UVB-sunscreen-containing facial lotion including Floraesters K-20W Jojoba helps
geneous lotion is obtained; pH = 5.5-6.5; viscosity = approx. 9,000 mpas (Brookfield
the product last longer on the skin providing protection throughout the day. For a
DV-II: Spindle 6, Speed 10); stable for more than three months at 20C, 40C and 4C.
lighter skin feel, while maintaining substantivity, the formulator may choose to reduce
the level of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba to 5%.
Happy Feet and Legs Spa Scrub A. Stearic Acid 3.00% w/w
(Earth Supplied Products LLC) Cetyl Alcohol (Lanette 16, BASF SE) 1.80
This spa scrub will gently smooth, renew and remove dry skin in a natural and Na- DEA-Cetyl Phosphate (Amphisol, DSM Nutritional Products) 2.50
tional Organic Program (NOP) certified organic way. In addition, it will improve blood Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292, EMD
circulation and condition the epidermis, leaving feet and legs smoother, invigorated Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 7.00
and radiant. Cyclopentasiloxane (Botanisil CP-33, Botanigenics Inc.) 5.00
B. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water (aqua) (Floraesters
A. Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (ESP Organic Soybean Oil,
K-20W Jojoba, Floratech) 10.00
Earth Supplied Products LLC) 31.35% w/w
Glycerin (Glycerin, The Dow Chemical Company) 4.00
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (ESP Organic Coconut Oil,
C. Water (aqua) qs
Earth Supplied Products LLC) 1.80
D. Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco) 0.25
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Mentha Piperita
E. Preservatives qs
(Peppermint) Oil (ESP Organic Peppermint Butter
Concentrate, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 0.50 Procedure: Mix A together with moderate propeller agitation at 75-80C. Combine
B. Sucrose (ESP Organic Evaporated Cane Juice, B and stir until completely mixed. Add the mixture into C. Stir in D very slowly, allow-
Earth Supplied Products LLC) 61.80 ing time to hydrate. Continue mixing with moderate propeller agitation at 80C. Add
C. Carya Illinoensis (Pecan) Shell Powder (ESP Organic A to BCD with rapid propeller agitation. Add E at 40C. Cool to RT with moderate
Pecan Shell 20-30, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 4.55 propeller agitation.
100.00

Procedure: In the main vessel, add A and mix until homogeneous. Add B to A incre- Jojoba-Mac Body Butter
mentally and mix until homogeneous. Add C to AB and mix thoroughly. (Floratech)
This rich-bodied, creamy moisturizer contains a blend of jojoba esters, macadamia
Lemon Sorbet Lotion oil and cocoa butter. The product highlights the oxidatively stable emolliency of both
(Earth Supplied Products LLC) jojoba esters and high-oleic sunflower seed oil.

This formulation highlights the benefits of the companys NOP formulation base, the A. Water (aqua) qs 100.00% w/w
only emulsifier needed to produce an elegant, white, stable, low-odor emulsion. The EDTA (Versene 100, NA2, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.03
natural purity of this lotion is optimized with NOP Organic ingredients. To preserve B. Glycerin (Glycerin, The Dow Chemical Company) 5.00
the system, a preservative-free, antimicrobial alternative blend of organic materials is Xanthan Gum (Keltrol CG, CP Kelco) 0.30
used to create a formulation environment that is unfriendly to microbial growth, yet C. Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (Floramac Macadamia Oil,
safe for users. Floratech) 5.00
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 30, Floratech) 3.00
A. Water (aqua) 69.70% w/w
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 15, Floratech) 1.00
B. Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum (ESP Organic
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter 5.00
Guar Gum, Earth Supplied Products LLC) 0.75

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Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Florasun 90, M-serum
Floratech) 2.00 (Givaudan Active Beauty)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Botanisil CP-33, Botanigenics Inc.) 4.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lexemul 561, M-serum is a high class concept product made for men and envied by women. This hit
INOLEX) 0.50 formula has a light texture, is easy to spread and penetrates quickly. M-serum leaves
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Emulgade PL an instant freshness on the skin. With 47.5% of actives, this blue serum is multitasking
68/50, BASF SE) 4.00 to: firm and reshape, hydrate, erase dark circles and remove lines.
Dimethicone 3.00 A. Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Tamarindus
D. Preservatives qs Indica Seed Extract (Unitamuron H-22, Givaudan
E. Colorants qs Active Beauty) 40.00% w/w
Fragrance (parfum) qs B. Water (aqua) 45.42
Disodium EDTA 0.05
Procedure: Dissolve A with moderate stirring at 75C. Mix B and add to A with rapid Propanediol 4.00
stirring at 75C. Combine C at 75C with moderate propeller agitation. Add C to AB at C. Alcohol Denat. 2.00
75C with moderate propeller agitation. Reduce temp of the batch to 50C and add D D. PEG-36 Castor Oil (Uniprosolv U-20, Givaudan Active Beauty) 0.50
to ABC with moderate propeller agitation. Add E to ABCD at 40-45C with moderate Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic
propeller agitation. Cool batch with moderate agitation to RT. Acid (Unigard OA-94, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
E. Water (aqua) 0.28
Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque Sodium Hydroxide 0.03
(Floratech) F. Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Methylglucoside Phosphate
(and) Copper Lysinate/Prolinate (Neodermyl, Givaudan
The following formula allows the formulator to vary sub-component phases that lend Active Beauty) 1.00
one or more esthetic and performance characteristics. This chassis couples the Glycerin (and) Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate
wax-ester character of Floratechs wide range of natural ingredients with traditional (and) Water (aqua) (Novhyal Biotech G, Givaudan Active
glycerides, fatty acids, poly alpha olefins, silicones and silicone powders. By varying Beauty) 2.00
these sub-component phases, the formulator can match marketing needs for natural Water (aqua) (and) Propyl Gallate (and) Gallyl Glucoside
content with specific performance points for slip (silicones), longevity of wear (poly
(and) Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside (Unisooth EG-28,
alpha olefins), moisturization (glycerin and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba synergy), and
Givaudan Active Beauty) 3.00
matte finish (Floralipids Moringa Butter).
G. Dyes 0.22
A. Water (aqua) qs 100.00% w/w H. PEG-36 Castor Oil (Uniprosolv U-20, Givaudan Active Beauty) 0.30
EDTA (Versene 100, NA2, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.10 Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
Propanediol (Zemea Propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle 100.00
Bio Products) 4.00
Glycerin 1.50 Procedure: Add C into homogeneous B. Add BC slowly into A. Add homogeneous
B. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer D. Adjust pH with E. Add F. Add G. Add homogeneous H.
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int. Ltd.) 0.50
C. Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters (Floralipids
Moringa Butter, Floratech) 8.00
Coconut Body Butter
Ethyl Macadamiate (Floramac 10, Floratech) 3.00 (Grant Industries Inc)
Jojoba Esters (Floraesters 30, Floratech) 10.00 A. Water (aqua) 60.10% w/w
Stearyl Dimethicone (Dow Corning 2503 Cosmetic Wax, Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced
Dow Corning Corp.) 1.50 Materials, Inc.) 0.30
Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene, New Phase Triethanolamine 0.30
Technologies Inc.) 1.00 Steareth-2 (Procol SA-2, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 1.00
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 1.50 B. Octyl Palmitate (Protachem OP, Protameen Chemicals Inc.) 12.00
C20-40 Alcohols (Performacol 425 Alcohol, New Phase Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 4.00
Technologies Inc.) 1.00 Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 2.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lexemul 561, Polysorbate 60 (Protasorb S-20 and S-20-K, Protameen
INOLEX) 2.50 Chemicals Inc.) 2.00
Palmitic Acid (Palmitic acid, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lipomulse 165,
Myristic Acid (Myristic acid, Acme-Hardesty Co.) 1.00 Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 2.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (Crodacol CS50, Croda) 2.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00
D. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc) 2.00
(aqua) (Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, Floratech) 0.35 Stearoxymethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer 5.00
Isododecane (and) Water (aqua) (and) Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone (Gransil VX-418, Grant Industries Inc) 5.00
Butylene Glycol (and) Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/olystyrene C. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) schulke) 1.00
Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-050-IS, Grant Industries Inc) 5.00 Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
E. Preservatives qs 100.00
Fragrance (parfum) qs
C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (and) Polyacrylamide Procedure: Combine A in main kettle and heat to 60-70C with mixing until all solids
(Sepigel 305, SEPPIC) 1.00 are dissolved. Combine B in a side kettle and heat to 70-75C with mixing until all sol-
ids are dissolved. Add B into A while homogenizing and continue to mix until uniform.
Procedure: Combine A at RT with moderate propeller agitation. Slowly add B and heat Start cooling with side sweep. Add C in order at 40C and continue to cool until RT.
to 80C. Combine C. Mix at 80C until completely melted and uniform. Slowly add C to
AB with moderate propeller agitation at 80C. Homogenize at 80C. Remove from heat
and cool to 65C with moderate propeller agitation. Add D and mix thoroughly until Intense Hydration Elixir
the Gransil SiW-050 is dispersed completely. Cool to 45C and add E with moderate (Grant Industries Inc)
propeller agitation. Cool to RT. A. Water (aqua) 46.05% w/w
Acetyl Glucosamine 0.50
Disodium EDTA 0.05
Ascorbyl Glucoside 0.20
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 0.20
Decyl Glucoside 0.10

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 63


Tromethamine (Tris Amino, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.30 EcoGizer Serum
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium (The Hallstar Company)
Sorbate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol
(Jeecide CAP-5, Jeen International Corp.) 1.00 The epidermis is continuously submitted to environmental stressing factors, which fa-
Butylene Glycol 5.00 vor pore occlusion and sebaceous disequilibrium. This purifying and energizing serum
Caffeine 1.00 is enriched with Eurol BT, a multifunctional, antioxidant active ingredient that regulates
PEG-6 (Carbowax PEG 300, The Dow Chemical Company) 3.00 sebum production and alleviates skin inflammatory reactions. Sweet almond, orange
and peppermint essential oils purify and energize the skin for a refreshed complexion.
Water (aqua)/Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene
Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer/Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Extract/Phenoxyethanol/Sodium Benzoate (InvisaSkin RB, Glycerin 3.00
Grant Industries Inc) 5.00 B. Xanthan Gum 0.30
Glycerin (and) Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Water (aqua) C. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
(and) Phenoxyethanol (Granhydrosil PSQ-W-GL (NP), The Hallstar Company) 5.00
Grant Industries Inc) 3.00 D. Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (Biochemica
Water (aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Polyglutamic Acid Jojoba Oil GoldOrg, The Hallstar Company) 2.50
(and) Phenoxyethanol (Mega Moist 2MKD, BC Research Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (Biochemica
Company Inc.) 5.00 Sweet Almond Oil, The Hallstar Company) 2.50
Bis-PEG-8 Dimethicone (Gransil VX-409, Grant Industries Inc) 2.00 Lecithin (and) Tocopherol (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and)
B. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Citric Acid (Aperoxid TLA, Biochim Srl) 0.05
Water (aqua) (and) Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-066, E. Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
Grant Industries Inc) 25.00 (Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.50
Squalane 1.00 Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Oil 0.10
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil 0.10
(Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int. Ltd.) 0.10 Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer/ Sorbate (euxyl K 712, schulke) 1.00
Isohexadecane/Polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600, SEPPIC) 1.50 F. Sodium Hydroxide qs
100.00
Procedure: Combine A in main vessel. Heat to 75C. Add B and homogenize for a
Procedure: Weigh A in the main kettle equipped with marine type propeller. Mix until few minutes using a suitable dispersion unit (e.g., Ultra-Turrax, Silverson). Add C.
homogeneous. Weigh B in a side kettle. Mix well. Add B to A slowly with mixing. Mix Homogenize for a few minutes. Combine D and heat with mixing to 75C. Add D to
until homogeneous. ABC using a suitable dispersion unit. Cool under very slow stirring. When batch is
below 40C, add E. When again homogeneous, use F to adjust the pH to 5.05.5.
Mix until smooth; properties (25C): appearance = opaque, shiny serum; viscosity
Best Cream Ever (20 rpm, Brk. RVDV-E, Sp. 4, after 24 hr at RT) = 2,5006,500 mPas; pH = 5.05.5.
(The Hallstar Company)
This refreshing gel-cream provides long-lasting hydration, leaving skin refreshed, Gentle Cleansing Mousse
healthy and rejuvenated due to the benefits of ingredients like Olivem 1000, Sen-
solene, Sensolene Care DD and Eurol BT. It absorbs immediately, leaving skin feeling
(The Hallstar Company)
silky smooth and perfectly quenched. Olive leaf extract helps soften and olive fatty This gentle and effective cleansing mousse contains a rich blend of olive oil derivatives,
acids improve hydration. Ideal for normal to oily skin, this Best Cream Ever formula including Olivem 460 and Olivem 300, to lift away makeup and impurities. It helps to
hydrates and protects skin from the negative effects of daily routines. rebalance and protect skin against environmental aggressors so skin feels fresh and
appears younger-looking. This cleansing mousse produces a silky foam when sprayed.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Glycerin 1.50 A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Betaine 1.00 Lactic Acid 0.60
Allantoin 0.20 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30 Panthenol 0.20
Carbomer 0.20 Sorbitol 1.00
C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 (and) Polyacrylamide Glycerin 4.00
(Sepigel 305, SEPPIC) 1.20 Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate 0.50
B. Water (aqua) 25.00 Sodium PEG-7 Olive Oil Carboxylate (Olivem 460,
Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000, The Hallstar Company) 8.00
The Hallstar Company) 1.00 Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 6.00
Ethylhexyl Olivate (Sensolene, The Hallstar Company) 0.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.00
Lauryl Olivate (Sensolene Care DD, The Hallstar Company) 1.00 B. Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters (Olivem 300, The Hallstar Company) 2.00
BHT 0.10 BHT 0.10
C. Cyclopentasiloxane 2.50 Fragrance (parfum) qs
Polydimethicone Copolyol (and) Cyclopentasiloxane
(Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00 Procedure: Prepare A. Prepare B separately and slowly add to A, stirring until com-
Dimethicone Crosspolymer 2.00 pletely transparent; characteristics (25C): appearance = transparent liquid; viscosity
D. Sodium Hydroxide 0.35 (100 rpm, Brk, RVDV-E, Sp. 1, after 24 hr at RT; mPas) = 1030; pH = 6.06.5.
E. Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs Smooth Glide Shave Bar
F. Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua)
(Innospec)
(Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.25
This solid shave bar features the dense luxurious lather of sodium lauroyl methyl
Procedure: Prepare B, separately heating the water to 75-80C and the lipophilic com- isethionate flakes in a sulfate-free formulation, combined with sodium methyl cocoyl
ponents to 70-75C. Add the lipids to the water and homogenize using a suitable dis- taurate for improved foaming properties and feel.
persion unit (e.g., Silverson, Ultra Turrax, etc.). Cool to 40C using a water bath, while A. Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (Iselux Flakes, Innospec) 84.00% w/w
stirring. Prepare A and disperse the thickeners using a suitable dispersion unit. One B. Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3.00
by one, add B, C, D, E and F to A and homogenize; characteristics (25C): appear-
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (Pureact WS Conc., Innospec) 2.00
ance = very shiny and soft gel-cream, good spreadability, silky after-feel; viscosity (10
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Natrlquest E30,
rpm, Brk. RVDV-E, Sp. T-C, after 24 hr @ RT) = 19,00023,000 mPas; pH = 5.06.0.
Innospec) 1.00
Polyquaternium-11 1.00

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Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate (Finsolv SLB-101, #Camerareadylook Selfie Spritz
Innospec) 5.00 (Kemin)
Clays (white, Yellow, Red, Green, Pink) 4.00
Colorants qs This on-the-go beauty spray is designed especially for selfie addicts to use each time
Fragrance (parfum) qs before taking a photo. The refreshing mist deposits a soft veil of lutein crystals onto
100.00 the skin, which shields blue light emitted by smart phones. The spritz awakens and
nourishes the skin, leaving a hydrating glow thats ideal to achieve the #cameraready
Procedure: (Please note the INCI clay listed in the formula is bentonite clay, 4%.) In skin look.
a well-ventilated area, grind A to a fine powder. In a separate beaker, mix B. Add B A. Water (aqua) 93.52% w/w
to A and stir well until the powder is completely coated. Add to mold and compress B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.05
at 40-60 psi at RT. C. Disodium EDTA 0.05
D. Glycerin 3.00
Zesty Sorbet Scrub E. Triethanolamine 0.03
F. PEG-12 Dimethicone 1.20
(Innospec) G. Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl
This zesty, sulfate-free sorbet body wash provides a rich, creamy foam and includes Butylcarbamate (Liquid Germall Plus, Ashland Specialty
sugar for mild exfoliation, leaving an excellent after-feel on the skin. Ingredients) 0.50
A. Water (aqua) 23.00% w/w H. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Xantophyll
Glycerin 20.00 (proposed) (FloraGLO Lutein Topical , Kemin) 0.15
B. Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (Iselux Flakes, Innospec) 15.00 Water (aqua) 1.50
Sorbitol 8.00 100.00
C. Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Natrlquest E30,
Innospec) 1.50 Procedure: Weigh A in the main vessel and position for mixing. Disperse B in A with
D. Mineral Oil 8.00 agitation for 30 min. Add C and D to AB and mix until uniform. Switch to slow mix-
ing and add E. Allow the mixture to thicken evenly. Add F and G and allow, mixing
Methyl Gluceth-20 Benzoate (Finsolv EMG-20, Innospec) 2.00
in between. Pre-mix H until crystals have become facile. Add H to the main vessel,
Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate (Finsolv SLB-201, Innospec) 0.50
ensuring the material is completely transferred. Mix the product for 20 min until
E. Stearic Acid 4.00 smooth and uniform.
F. Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Colorants qs #Instabeauty Facial Lotion
G. Sucrose 18.00 (Kemin)
100.00
From a gel-cream to milk texture, this sprayable lotion leaves a silky, light film on skin.
In its format, somewhere between a serum and an emulsion, it creates a true blue
Procedure: Mix A and heat to 65C. Add B to A and mix until uniform; slowly add C
light shield at the skin surface to defend against radiation throughout the day. Its hybrid
to batch until clear solution is formed. Add D sequentially and mix with stirring. Add E
texture transforms instantly from an emulsion to a translucent milk, offering a silky after
to batch and mix with stirring until fully uniform. Allow to cool to 30-35C, then add F
feel ideal for both men and women.
with stirring. Allow formulation to cool and form structure (i.e., a viscous paste) before
adding G. Mix thoroughly until uniform. A. C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside (Montanov L, SEPPIC)
1.00% w/w
Glyceryl Stearate 1.50
Face Mask Sheet Isohexadecane 3.00
(INOLEX) Cyclopentasiloxane 2.00
Polyester-11 conditions the skin in this facial mask, leaving it radiant and glowing. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 4.00
The mask provides moisture and radiance for soft, supple skin. Spectrastat OEL is a B. Water (aqua) 29.40
broad-spectrum preservation system, optimal for wipes and mask sheets. Carbomer 0.30
Triethanolamine 0.30
A. Water (aqua) 76.40% w/w
Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum (Avicel PC
(Lysofix Liquid, Kemin) 0.00
611, FMC Corp.) 1.50
C. Water (aqua) 51.00
B. Glycerin 5.00
Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
Disodium EDTA 0.10
(Lysofix Liquid, Kemin) 2.00
Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Methylpropanediol 4.00
Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Propanediol (Spectrastat OEL,
Xanthan Gum 0.05
INOLEX) 1.50
Disodium EDTA 0.10
C. Butylene Glycol 5.00
Allantoin 0.10
Algae Extract 1.00
D. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Xanthophyll
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract 1.00
(proposed) (FloraGLO Lutein Topical, Kemin) 0.20
Polysorbate 80 0.50
E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
Sodium Hyaluronate 1.00
schulke) 1.00
Polyester-11 1.00
F. Citric Acid 0.05
Cetearyl Isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl
100.00
Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and)
Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetyl Palmitate (Emulgade CM,
Procedure: Prepare A by weighing in a vessel. Heat to 80C. Prepare B by hydrating
BASF SE) 5.00
for 30 min and neutralizing the polymer. Weigh C in main vessel. Add B to C and mix.
D. Fragrance (parfum) 1.00 Heat to 80C. Add heated BC to A and homogenize for 2 min. Add D to the main
100.00 vessel and maintain temperature for 20 min. Begin to cool while mixing. At 45C, add
E and homogenize for 1 min. Mix until cool and uniform. Neutralize with F to pH 6.5.
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 80C. Mix until uniform. Heat B to 80C and add
to A in main vessel with propeller mixing. Begin cooling and add C at 60C. Cool to
RT while mixing and add D. #Kbeauty Facial Sheet Mask
(Kemin)
Include some #kbeauty routine into the beauty challenge with this Facial Sheet Mask.
Soaked in a fresh and fluid jelly emulsion infused with lutein, the fiber mask wraps
around facial contours for intense penetration of the actives to refresh stressed skin

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 65


after all day blue light exposure. For instant skin radiance and deep hydration. Unfold Mild Moisturizing Facial Cream
the mask and apply it onto a cleansed and dry face for 15 to 20 min. Remove the
(Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.)
sheet from the face and wipe excess liquid. No need to rinse. One-time use only.
Consumers will gently delight their skin with this mild, cushiony hydrating cream
A. Water (aqua) 88.32% w/w enriched with Ion-Moist molecular film to visibly enhance moisture retention with op-
Disodium EDTA 0.03 timum smoothness, and Actiphyte Calendula GL for anti-inflammatory and soothing
B. Glycerin 3.00 benefits. Schercemol 318 ester contributes to the smooth spreading, good lubricity
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.10 and luxurious after feel.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Pemulen TR-1 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.22 A. Water (aqua) 64.13% w/w
C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.15
D. Glycerin (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract (Lysofix B. Glycerin 4.00
Liquid, Kemin) 1.50 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
1,3-Butylene Glycol 4.00 schulke) 0.43
E. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus C. Isopropyl Isostearate (Schercemol 318 Ester, Lubrizol
Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract (Rosamox, Kemin) 0.20 Advanced Materials, Inc.) 7.00
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil 0.50 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 1.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 4.50
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and) Xantophyll Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 4.00
(proposed) (FloraGLO Lutein Topical , Kemin) 0.10 Behenyl Alcohol (Lanette 22, BASF SE) 2.00
F. Hydroxyacetophenone 0.50 Methylglucose Sesquistearate (Glucate SS Emulsifier,
Phenoxyethanol 0.18 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.34
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.30 Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, BASF Corporation) 0.15
100.00 D. Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Calcium Pantothenate
(and) Xanthan Gum (and) Urea (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Procedure: Charge A in the main vessel. Premix B and add to A. Hydrate for 30 min. Glucose (and) Magnesium Lactate (and) Potassium Chloride
Neutralize with C and add premixed D. Heat ABCD and E to 80C. Add heated E to (and) Potassium Lactate (and) Magnesium Chloride (and)
ABCD and homogenize for 3 min. Continue slow mixing and maintain temp for 20 min. Sodium Citrate (and) Citric Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
Begin to cool to 45C, add premixed F and homogenize again for 1 min. Continue to (Ion-Moist Molecular Film, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 5.00
slow mix for until smooth and uniform. Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Calendula Officinalis Flower
Extract (Actiphyte Calendula GL, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Diaper Lotion Protective Spray E. Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide (Sodio Hidroxido 20%
(Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) P/P Puro, Quimivita S.A.) 0.20
This mild and PEG-free sprayable diaper lotion is designed for babies Ion-Moist mo- 100.00
lecular film provides an immediate and long-lasting moisturizing effect thanks to its
content of several ingredients from the natural moisturizing factor ,and Actiphyte Ca- Procedure: Mix A until complete polymer hydration. Add B to A under mixing until
lendula GL for anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits. Schercemol DISD ester imparts homogeneous and heat to 75C. In a separate vessel, mix C until homogeneous and
a rich feel and substantivity for durable protection of the skin, without too much tack. heat to 75C. Add C to AB and homogenize with Ultra-Turrax homogenizer (IKA) for
3 min at 10,000 rpm. Cool batch to 30C while rotor mixing. Add D to ABC one at a
A. Water (aqua) 64.60% w/w time. Mix until uniform and adjust speed as needed using rotor agitation. Neutralize
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.20 with E to pH 5.05.5. Scrape the side of the vessel using a spatula and continue mix-
B. Glycerin 3.00 ing until homogeneous with rotor; appearance = opaque white cream; pH = 5.05.5;
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol viscosity (mPas) = 3,0004,000; recommended packaging = opaque airless; stability
(and) Tocopherol (Sensiva PA 40, schulke) 0.80 = passed 4 weeks at 5C, RT, 40C and 50C, and freeze/thaw cycles (-18C/25C).
C. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 6.00
Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Schercemol DISD Ester,
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00 Brume Micellaire Sprayable Makeup Remover
Methylglucose Dioleate (Glucate DO Emulsifier, Lubrizol (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
Advanced Materials, Inc.) 1.00 This sprayable makeup remover has a soft touch and comfortable sensation. It is
Tocopherol 0.50 preservative-, ethoxylate- and PEG-free, and contains 100% Ecocert-registered
D. Tapioca Starch 11.00 ingredients.
Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Calcium Pantothenate
(and) Xanthan Gum (and) Urea (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) A. Water (aqua) 92.63% w/w
Glucose (and) Magnesium Lactate (and) Potassium Glycerin 2.00
Chloride (and) Potassium Lactate (and) Magnesium Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
Chloride (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Citric Acid (and) (Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte
Ethylhexylglycerin (Ion-Moist Molecular Film, Lipotec GmbH) 0.10
USA, Inc.) 5.00 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Citric
Microcrystalline Cellulose 4.00 Acid (Dermofeel G10LW, Dr. Straetmans Chemische
Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Calendula Officinalis Produkte GmbH) 2.00
Flower Extract (Actiphyte Calendula GL, Lipotec USA, Inc.) 1.00 B. Lecithin (Emulmetik 930, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 0.25
Panthenol 0.55 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Fragrance (parfum) 0.05 (Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.02
E. Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide (Sodio Hidroxido 20% C. Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Sodium Levulinate (and)
P/P Puro, Quimivita S.A.) 0.30 Sodium Anisate (Dermosoft 1388 eco, Dr. Straetmans
100.00 Chemische Produkte GmbH) 3.00
100.00
Procedure: Mix A until complete polymer hydration. Add B to A and mix well. In a
separate vessel, mix C until uniform. Add C to AB and homogenize with Ultra-Turrax Procedure: Heat A to 75C. Add B to A under slow stirring. Keep under slow stirring
homogenizer (IKA) for 2 min at 6,000 rpm. Below 30C, add D one at a time to ABC for 20 min to hydrate phospholipids. Increase stirring rate to maximum level with a
and mix well. Neutralize with E to pH 55.5. Scrape the side of the vessel using a rotor stator blender for 3 min to form micelles. Cool under medium stirring. Add C.
spatula and continue mixing until homogeneous with rotor. Adjust speed as needed Adjust pH if necessary; formula specifications: aspect = off-white, translucent lotion;
using rotor agitation; appearance = opaque/offwhite lotion; pH = 5.05.8; viscosity viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 min, 6 rpm) = N.A. (close to water); pH = 5.0-5.5;
(mPas)** = 2,0004,000; recommended packaging: opaque spray; stability = passed centrifugation (3,000 rpm, 20 min) = stable.
4 weeks at 5C, RT, 40C and 50C, and 5 freeze/thaw cycles (-18C/25C).

66 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Complexion Enhancer
Procedure: Prepare A. Increase speed rate to 1,500 rpm to develop gel. Pour B one
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
by one into A. One by one, add C to AB; specifications: aspect = off-white to amber
This formula leaves a soft skin feel, provides UV protection and is preservative-free. gel; viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 min) = 50,000-60,000 mPa.s; pH =
A. Water (aqua) 44.75% w/w 5.5-6.0; centrifugation (3,000 rpm, 20 min) = stable.
Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol
(Dermofeel PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte Facial Scrub
GmbH) 0.10 (Micro Powders Inc.)
Glycerin 3.00
Xanthan Gum 0.30 A. Water (aqua) 41.60% w/w
Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon / Glycerin 3.00
Hercules) 0.30 Calcium Disodium EDTA 0.10
B. Behenyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Phospholipids Butylene Glycol 3.00
(and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Amisol Soft, Lucas Phenoxyethanol 0.50
Meyer Cosmetics) 2.50 Triethanolamine 0.80
Hydrogenated Lecithin (Emulmetik 320, Lucas Meyer B. Carbomer 0.53
Cosmetics) 0.30 Water (aqua) 43.25
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, AAK) 1.50 Phenoxyethanol 0.22
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (Dermofeel BGC, C. Alcohol Denat. 2.00
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 3.50 D. Polyhydroxybutyrate 0.00
Cyclomethicone (Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning Polyhydroxybutyrate 5.00
Corp.) 2.00 100.00
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 3.00
Isononyl Isononanoate 3.00 Procedure: Weigh A in a beaker. Start mixing using propeller blade at slow to medium
Stearic Acid (and) Titanium Dioxide (UV-Titan M160, speed until uniform and clear. Slowly add B to A under medium mixing. As the batch
Kemira Pigments Oy) 4.50 starts to thicken, switch to sweep agitation. Continue to mix until homogeneous.
Add C and continue to mix slowly until uniformly dispersed. Add D to ABC and mix
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
until homogeneous.
(Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.20
C. Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77891 (and) Silica (White Covasop
W9775, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 15.00 Three Oil Serum
Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77492 (Yellow Covasop W1771, (Naturex Inc.)
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 2.90
Propylene Glycol (and) Silica (Brown Covasop W8770, A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 0.70 Xanthan Gum qs
Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77499 (and) Silica (Black B. Oenocarpus Bataua Fruit Oil qs
Covasop W9774, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 0.25 Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil (Buriti Oil, Naturex Inc.) qs
D. Polymethyl Methacrylate 3.00
E. Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Anti-stretch Mark Cream
Ferment Extract (Exo-P, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00 (Naturochim S.A.S.)
Betaine (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrogenated This cream owes its anti-stretch mark properties to organic, deodorized baobab oil,
Lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin (Hydraporine, Lucas well-known for this effect. The premium organic butter will confer a melting and refresh-
Meyer Cosmetics) 4.00 ing feel, while organic, deodorized pomegranate oil imparts some anti-inflammatory
F. Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) effect. These three ingredients participate to making an innovative anti-stretch mark
Sodium Anisate (Dermosoft 1388, Dr. Straetmans cream.
Chemische Produkte GmbH) 4.00
A. Water (aqua) 78.90% w/w
G. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
Sodium Citrate 1.00
100.00
Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (Geogard Ultra,
Procedure: Heat A and B to 70-75C. Introduce B into A under medium stirring. Mix for Lipoid GmbH) 1.00
20 min to hydrate phospholipids. Increase stirring rate to maximum level with a rotor B. Glycerin 5.00
stator blender for 3 min. Add C to AB and mix until product is homogeneous. Cool Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (Solagum AX,
under slow stirring. Add D, E, F and G, one by one, below 35C. Adjust pH if neces- SEPPIC) 1.20
sary; specifications: aspect = beige, fluid and homogeneous emulsion; viscosity (Rheo C. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets,
ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 min, 6 rpm) = 20,000-30 000 mPa.s; pH = 5.0-5.5; centrifugation Evonik Industries AG) 1.50
(3,000 rpm, 20 min) = stable. Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil (Nat Organic Deodorized
Baobab Oil, Naturochim S.A.S.) 6.00
Punica Granatum Seed Oil (NAT Organic Deodorized
DIY Moisturizing Gel Pomegranate Oil, Naturochim S.A.S.) 2.00
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Hydrogenated
This hydrating gel is a customizable formula. Coconut Oil (Premium Organic Coconut Butter,
Naturochim S.A.S.) 3.00
A. Water (aqua) 92.13% w/w Tocopherol 0.20
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer/Hydrogenated Polyisobutene/ D. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20
Phospholipids/Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate/Helianthus Annuus 100.00
(Sunflower) Seed Oil (Heliogel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 4.50
B. Sodium Phytate (and) Water (aqua) (and) Alcohol (Dermofeel Procedure: In a first mixer, add A at 80C. Add B to A. Mix to obtain a homogenous
PA-3, Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 0.10 blend. In a second mixer, mix C at 75C. Pour C into AB while mixing briskly. Ho-
Chlorphenesin 0.30 mogenize for 10 min and let cool; add D at 30C and homogenize again for 15 min.
Phenoxyethanol 0.80
Glycerin (and) Picea Abies Extract (and) Alcohol (Granlux
AOX-GL, Oy Granula Ab Ltd.) 1.00 Melting and Refreshing Cream
C. Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Extract (and) (Naturochim S.A.S.)
Water (aqua) (Exo-H, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00 This melting and refreshing cream owes its unusual feel to the Premium Organic
Fragrance (parfum) 0.17 Coconut Butter, which is manufactured carefully using an Ecocert-approved process.
100.00

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 67


A. Water (aqua) 78.30% w/w Procedure: Combine in order with constant mixing. Mix for 1 hr. The final batch should
B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol be clear, smooth, homogenous and lump-free.
Ultrez 20 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.20
C. Propanediol 5.00
Premium Hand Soap
Inulin 3.00
D. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.00 (Pilot Chemical Co.)
Glyceryl Undecylenate 0.50 A. Water (aqua) 66.40% w/w
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (and)
Coconut Oil (Premium Organic Coconut Butter, Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Water (aqua) (and) Cocamide
Naturochim S.A.S.) 5.00 MIPA (CalBlend DF, Pilot Chemical Co.) 30.00
E. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer/Hydrogenated Polyisobutene/ Glycerin 2.00
Phospholipids/Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate/Helianthus Sodium Chloride 1.60
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (Heliogel, Lucas Meyer Citric Acid qs
Cosmetics) 2.00 Preservatives qs
F. Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Dyes qs
Propanediol (Spectrastat OL, INOLEX) 1.00 100.00
G. Sodium Hydroxide qs
100.00 Procedure: Add A in the order listed with continuous mixing. Mix well after each ad-
dition and then an additional hour after all ingredients have been added or until batch
Procedure: In a first mixer, add A, then hydrate B in A. Be sure to disperse carefully is clear, smooth, homogeneous and free of lumps/particles.
after hydration. Next, introduce C to AB. Heat batch to 75C. In a second mixer,
introduce D and heat to 75C. When both mixers have reached 75C, prepare the
emulsion: pour D into ABC and homogenize for 5 min before introducing E. Homog- Aerosol Antiperspirant
enize for 5 min, cool and at 50C, introduce F. Homogenize for 5 min and at 30C, (Presperse, Inc.)
adjust pH to 6 0.25 with 10% G. This antiperspirant utilizes a volatile silicone replacement technology. It provides
protection with a quick dry time in a non-whitening formula. Also, it leaves skin with
Plum Exfoliating Face Cream a dry, silky after feel. It is ideal for those seeking an alternative to cyclopentasiloxane
formulations, without compromising the esthetic properties popular to volatile silicones.
(Naturochim S.A.S.)
A. C13-16 Isoparaffin (and) C12-14 Isoparaffin (and) C13-15
Nat Gascony Plum Butter brings to this cream a soft melting texture and a delicate
Alkane (SiClone SR-5, Presperse, Inc.) 10.00% w/w
sweet candy-like aroma. Nat Gascony Plum Butter 40 is a perfectly appropriate particle
size for facial exfoliation. Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis PLC) 3.00
A. Water (aqua) 56.70% w/w Isohexadecane (Permethyl 101A, Presperse, Inc.) 1.50
Glycerin 5.00 B. Aluminum Chlorohydrate (Aluminum chlorohydrate,
Xanthan Gum 0.50 Summit Research Labs, Inc.) 10.00
B. Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) C. Propellant 75.50
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Phytocream 100.00
2000, Sinerga SpA) 5.00
Hydrogenated Prunus Domestica Seed Oil (and) Prunus Procedure: Combine A and homogenize with a shear mixer at medium speed for 3-5
Domestica Seed Oil (Nat Gascony Plum Butter, min at 20-25C. Add B to A. Homogenize for 2-5 min at 20-25C.
Naturochim S.A.S.) 6.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (Lanette O, BASF SE) 1.00
Cetyl Alcohol (Lanette 16, BASF SE) 2.00 Velvet Touch
Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC, BASF SE) 5.00 (Presperse, Inc.)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 318, BASF SE) 12.00 A. Water (aqua) 50.00% w/w
Glyceryl Undecylenate 0.50 Polysorbate 20 0.25
C. Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol (Geogard 221, Glycerin/Water (aqua)/Sodium Polyacrylate/PVM/MA
Lonza Consumer Care) 0.80 Copolymer (Zilgel Oil, Presperse, Inc.) 1.00
D. Prunus Domestica (Prune) Seed Powder (Nat Gascony Disodium EDTA 0.05
Plum Scrub 40, Naturochim S.A.S.) 5.00 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.50 TR-2 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.20
100.00 B. Butylene Glycol 1.00
Xanthan Gum 0.20
Procedure: Prepare A by heating the purified water to 80C in a mixer. Add remaining C. Isododecane (Permethyl 99A, Presperse, Inc.) 12.60
A. Shake to obtain a homogeneous mixture. Separately, in a heater, mix B and heat PTFE (and) Isohexadecane (Microspersion 519PC,
to 75C. When A and B reach the required temp, introduce B very slowly into A in the Presperse, Inc.) 5.50
mixer. Mix for 10 min until homogeneous and let it cool. At 50C add C to AB. Mix
Isohexadecane (Permethyl 101A, Presperse, Inc.) 9.40
for 5 min until homogeneous and add D to ABC. At 40C add E to ABCD. Mix for 5
Talc 18.50
min and adjust the pH to 5.6 with 10% sodium hydroxide solution or 50% citric acid.
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50
D. Triethanolamine 0.30
Facial Cleaner E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
(Pilot Chemical Co.) schulke) 0.50
100.00
A. Water (aqua) 75.00% w/w
Water (aqua) (and) PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate (and) Sodium Procedure: At 2030C, combine A, in order, in a main kettle with prop mixing until
Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) uniform. Combine B in a separate kettle with a prop mixer and mix at 2030C until
Sodium Chloride (and) PEG-150 Distearate (and) Citric fully dispersed. Add B to A with prop mixing at 2030C until uniform. Add C to AB
Acid (and) Quaternium-15 (and) Tetrasodium EDTA with medium shear mixing. Increase speed as the solution starts to build viscosity. Mix
(CalBlend BSC, Pilot Chemical Co.) 25.00 for 36 min or until batch is uniform. Add D to batch. Mix well and check pH, adjusting
Sodium Chloride qs to 5.56.5. Add E with low shear mixing until batch is uniform.
Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) qs
Dyes qs
100.00

68 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.duponttateandlyle.com 2017 Skin Care E-book


Anti-dark Spots Oily Stick Procedure: Weigh A. Weigh B and mix well. Pour B into A with rotor stator stirring (s
= 500 rpm). Allow to homogenize for one hr. Heat AB to 85C in Bain-Marie. Weigh
(Sederma)
C. Weigh D and add C, then heat to 85C in Bain-Marie. Pour CD into AB with rotor
This anti- dark spots oily stick with Mediatone is an easy-to-use oil. The thickened stator stirring (s = 2400 rpm). Add E with rotor stator stirring, mixing well. Adjust pH
oil is much easier to handle during application and provides local treatment for dark to 6.00+/-0.10 with F*. Add G** around 35C, mix well; pH = 5.90 0.20; *sodium
spots. The OleoCraft LP-20 creates the rigid stick effect and is compatible with a hydroxide 30%; **fragrance: Women Anti-age, by Expressions Parfumes.
range of oils and emollient esters including Crodamol AB and Prisorine 3505. Tween
60 and Arlasolve DMI ensure the crystal clear clarity of the formulation with Mediatone.
After using this anti- dark spots oily stick with Mediatone, hyperpigmented spots are Ceramide-Inducing Transparent Gel
lightened for a fairer, more even complexion. (Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.)
A. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda Europe Ltd.) qs to 100.00% This formulation contains Amitose 3LGA, which activates the synthesis of ceramide,
w/w one element of the skins barrier function. Amitose 3LGA also increases glutathione,
Polyamide-8 (Oleocraft LP-20, Croda Europe Ltd.) 28.00 an antioxidative substance, which reinforces the skins barrier function by bringing out
Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60, Croda) 4.00 the essential power of skin.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI, Croda) 5.00 A. Carbomer 1.00% w/w
Isostearic Acid (Prisorine 3505, Croda Europe Ltd.) 8.00 Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Octadecenedioic Acid (Mediatone, Sederma) 2.50 B. Potassium Hydroxide qs
B. Phenoxyethanol qs C. Glycerin 3.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 Butylene Glycol 3.00
Phenoxyethanol 0.45
Procedure: Weigh and heat A to 85C in Bain-Marie. Weigh B*. Add B to A before Ethylhexylglycerin 0.05
reaching 40C and homogenize well. Pour hot into the moulds; *fragrance: Lotus, by D. Alcohol 5.00
Expressions Parfumes. Citric Acid qs
Sodium Citrate qs
Brightening Day Cream Water (aqua) 10.00
(Sederma) E. Ceteth-40 0.20
F. 3-Laurylglyceryl Ascorbate (Amitose 3LGA, Seiwa
Kasei Co., Ltd.) 1.00
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Potassium Sorbate qs Procedure: Add B to A and adjust to pH 4.5. Add C to AB and stir. Add D (adjusting
B. Stearic Acid 19.00 to pH 4.5) to ABC and stir. Add E and F to ABCD and stir until uniformly dispersed.
PEG-40 Stearate (Myrj S40, Croda) 2.00
Octadecenedioic Acid (Mediatone, Sederma) 4.00 Long-lasting Moisturizing Cleansing Gel
Mineral Oil 5.00
(Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.)
Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) This formulation with Amitose R gives a long-lasting moisturizing effect upon applica-
Alumina (Solaveil XT-300, Croda) 3.00 tion, after rinse-off and after towel-drying because Amitose R strongly adsorbs skin
C. Glycerin 8.00 thanks to its guanidino group, while also moisturizing skin.
Phenoxyethanol qs A. Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk 5.00% w/w
D. Water (aqua) 1.50 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.50
Sodium Hydroxide 0.15 Glycerin 20.00
E. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate 5.00
B. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride qs to 100.00
Procedure: Weigh and heat A to 85C in Bain-Marie. Weigh and heat B to 85C in C. Dihydroxypropyl Arginine HCl (Amitose R, Seiwa
Bain-Marie. Weigh C and mix well. Add C into A with rotor stator stirring (s = 300 rpm). Kasei Co., Ltd.) 1.00
Mix well. Add B into AC with rotor stator stirring (s = 1,500 rpm). Mix well. Add D*
with rotor stator stirring (s = 800 rpm). Mix well. Finally, add E**; pH = 6.50; *sodium Procedure: Heat A and B separately to 80C. Check the surface, and if there are
hydroxide 30%; **fragrance: Volupt Corps, from Expressions Parfumes. no oil droplets, add B to A little by little and stir. Cool to 40C. Add C to AB and stir.

Skin Tone Mediator Lotion Super Hydrating Plumping Face Mask


(Sederma) (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer A. Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer/Dimethicone (KSG-210, Shin-Etsu
(Volarest FL, Croda) 1.00 Chemical Co. Ltd.) 5.00% w/w
B. Pentylene Glycol 5.00 PEG-8 Dimethicone (KF-6017, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.) 0.10
Phenoxyethanol qs Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00
Xanthan Gum 0.40 B. Water (aqua) 63.50
C. Steareth-21 (Brij S721, Croda) 5.00 Glycerin 10.00
Steareth-2 (Brij S2, Croda) 1.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00
Stearyl Heptanoate (Crodamol W, Croda Europe Ltd.) 1.00 1,3-Butylene Glycol 5.00
Octyldodecanol 1.50 Sodium Citrate 0.20
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda) 1.00 Sodium Chloride 0.50
Isohexadecane (Arlamol HD, Croda) 1.50 Phenoxyethanol 0.70
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda Europe Ltd.) 5.00 C. Blue Lake No. 1 qs
Isostearic Acid (Prisorine 3505, Croda Europe Ltd.) 5.00 100.00
D. Octadecenedioic Acid (Mediatone, Sederma) 2.50
E. Potassium Sorbate qs Procedure: Combine A using a dispersing blade and mix until homogeneous. Combine
F. Water (aqua) 1.30 B in a separate vessel and mix well until dissolved. Using a steady stream, add B to
Sodium Hydroxide 0.13 A and mix for 1-3 min. Storage in a plastic container is preferred.
G. Fragrance (parfum) 0.10

2017 Skin Care E-book www.duponttateandlyle.com Cosmetics & Toiletries | 69


Extreme Condition Care Anti-cellulite Cream for Body
(Solabia) (TRI-K Industries)
A. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets, Evonik A. Water (aqua) 74.00% w/w
Industries AG) 2.00% w/w EDTA (Versene 100, NA2, The Dow Chemical Company) 0.10
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Xanthan Gum (Vanzan NF, Vanderbilt Minerals LLC) 0.40
Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G, BASF SE) 5.00 Sclerotium Gum 0.30
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 2.25 Glycerin 2.00
Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Phenoxyethanol (Tristat P5, TRI-K Industries) 1.00
Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (Hydracire S, Gattefoss SAS) 3.00 B. Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium
Behenyl Alcohol 2.00 Stearoyl Lactylate (TRIsatin, TRI-K Industries) 5.00
B. Raspberry Seed Oil/Tocopheryl Succinate Bisabolol 0.20
Aminopropanediol Esters (Vitaskin E, Solabia) 0.50 Tocopherol Acetate 0.50
C. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil 3.00
D. Xanthan Gum (Ketrol SFT, CP Kelco) 0.30 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Lexemul 561,
E. Glycerin 6.00 INOLEX) 1.00
F. Preservatives qs Cetyl Esters 1.00
G. Water (aqua) 6.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
alpha-Glucan-Oligosaccharide (Bioecolia, Solabia) 1.00 Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
H. Sodium Hydroxide 0.15 (PhytoVie Defense, TRI-K Industries) 0.50
I. Fragrance (parfum) 0.20 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00
J. Isododecane 2.00 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 0.50
Dimethicone 0.50
Procedure: Prepare A at 75C. When at 75C, add B. Separately heat C to 75C. Wet C. Hydrolyzed Drosera Ramentacea Leaf (Adipo-Trap,
D in E. At 75C, add DE to C under stirring. Add F to CDE. Make the emulsion by TRI-K Industries) 3.00
adding AB into CDEF under stirring. Prepare G at RT and incorporate it in the emulsion 100.00
at 60C. At 45C, add H. At 35C, add I then J to the batch.
Procedure: Heat water in A to 75C. Add EDTA until dissolved. Add gums slowly until
fully hydrated. Add remaining A. Combine B and heat to 75C. When both phases
Rose Clay Hydrating Facial Mask reach 75C, add B slowly to A. Homogenize for 3 min, then switch to side sweep
(Sun Chemical Corp.) mixing. Add C at 40C. Cool batch to 30C.
Rose clay and synthetic mica give this mask a beautiful shimmering pink color, making
it an even more indulgent treatment for the skin. Humectants hydrate while a com-
bination of emollients leaves the skin feeling silky and soft. Clay, colorants and hero
Revitalizing Lotion for Sensitive Skin
ingredients can be varied to produce a variety of formulation options. (TRI-K Industries)
A. Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate 6.00% w/w A. Water (aqua) 71.71% w/w
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.)
Emulsifier, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 4.00 0.20
Diisostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Schercemol DISD Ester, Glycerin 3.00
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00 Potassium Sorbate (Potassium Sorbate FCC, TRI-K Industries) 0.30
Cetearyl Alcohol (Lanette O, BASF SE) 1.00 Phenoxyethanol (Tristat P5, TRI-K Industries) 1.00
B. Water (aqua) 43.50 B. Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (and) Sodium Lauryl Stearoyl Lactylate (Biobase S, TRI-K Industries) 3.00
Sulfoacetate (Stepan-Mild LSB, Stepan Co.) 2.00 Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil 3.00
Glycerin 5.40 Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Methyl Gluceth-20 (Glucam E-20 Humectant, Lubrizol (PhytoVie Defense, TRI-K Industries) 1.00
Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 10.00
C. Kaolin 20.00 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.50
Titanium Dioxide (and) Dimethicone (C98-0001D Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane (Xiameter
Dimethicone Treated Titanium Dioxide, Sun Chemical Corp.) 0.75 PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.00
D. Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer (Carbopol Aqua CC Polymer, Squalane (OleaClear Olive Squalane, TRI-K Industries) 1.00
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 6.00 C. Triethanolamine 0.20
Water (aqua) 5.00 D. Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract (TRIglyphix Sense,
E. Glycolic Acid 0.30 TRI-K Industries) 2.00
F. Fragrance (parfum) qs Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Cucumis Sativus
Preservatives qs (Cucumber) Fruit Extract (Sensique Cucumber, TRI-K
Tocopherol Acetate 0.50 Industries) 0.05
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Jasminum Grandiflorum
Oxides (C81-3531 SunShine Crystal Red, Sun (Jasmine) Extract (Sensique Jasmine, TRI-K Industries) 0.03
Chemical Corp.) 1.00 Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Citrus Aurantifolia
(Lime) Peel Extract (Sensique Lime, TRI-K Industries) 0.01
Procedure: Blend A and heat to 70C. Mix until uniform. Blend B in a separate ves- 100.00
sel and heat to 70C. Mix until uniform. Slowly add B to A using moderate agitation
and mix until uniform. In a dry vessel, blend C and sieve into the batch. Mix batch Procedure: In main vessel, add carbomer to water and mix well until completely
thoroughly until homogeneous and begin cooling. Premix D in a separate vessel. Add hydrated. Heat to 70C and add remaining A. In a separate vessel, combine B and
to batch once the temperature has cooled to 55C, then mix until uniform. Adjust pH heat 75C. Add B to A, mixing well. Add C and homogenize for 3 min. Cool batch to
to 4.5-5.5 with glycolic acid. When batch reaches 45C, slowly add F in order with 35C. Add D individually to batch. Mix until uniform.
mixing. Continue mixing until batch reaches 40C. Fill in suitable containers.

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SUPPLIER LISTING

A&E Connock (Perfumery & info@aristaindustries.com Fax: 1-715-635-7519 COBIOSA


Cosmetics) Ltd. www.aristaindustries.com rebecca@botanicinnovations.com Madrid Spain
Hampshire United Kingdom www.botanicinnovations.com Tel: 34-918510514
Tel: 44-1425-653-367 Ashland Specialty Ingredients info@cobiosa.com
Fax: 44-1425-656-041 Wilmington, DE USA Campo Research www.cobiosa.com
sales@connock.co.uk Tel: 1-800-622-4423, 1-877-546- Singapore Singapore
www.connock.co.uk 2782 Tel: 65-63833203 Colonial Chemical Inc.
personalcare@ashland.com Fax: 65-63834034 South Pittsburg, TN USA
AAK www.ashland.com/personalcare bala@campo-research.com Tel: 1-800-830-2436, 1-423-837-
SE 374 82 Karlshamn Sweden www.campo-research.com 8800
Tel: 46-454-82000 BASF Corporation Fax: 1-423-837-3888
Fax: 46-454-82885 Florham Park, NJ USA Caribbean Natural Products jim@colonialchem.com
lipid@aak.com Tel: 1-800-880-5768 Fairfield, NJ USA www.colonialchem.com
www.aakpersonalcare.com Fax: 1-973-245-6764 Tel: 1-973-287-6668
beautycare-na@basf.com Fax: 1-973-521-7252 Corum Inc.
AB Specialty Silicones personal-care.basf.com info@caribnaturalproducts.com Taipei Taiwan
Waukegan, IL USA www.caribnaturalproducts.com Tel: 886-2-8751-6060
Tel: 1-800-678-3024, 1-908-273- BASF SE Fax: 886-2-8751-6363
8015 Ludwigshafen Germany Carrubba Inc. marketing@elgin.com.tw
info@andisil.com Tel: 1-800-531-0815, 49-00800- Milford, CT USA www.corum.com.tw
www.andisil-personal-care.com 2273-4444 Tel: 1-203-878-0605
Fax: 49-211-7981-9727 Fax: 1-203-877-0361 Cosphatec GmbH
AIC beautycare-eu@basf.com customerservice@carrubba.com Hamburg Germany
Framingham, MA USA www.beautycare.basf.com www.carrubba.com Tel: 49-0-40-3501669-0
Tel: 1-800-238-0001 Fax: 49-0-40-350166910
info@aicma.com Beraca Centerchem Inc. info@cosphatec.com
www.aicma.com Sao Paulo Brazil Norwalk, CT USA www.cosphatec.com
Tel: 55-11-26435000, 55-11- Tel: 1-203-822-9800
Akzo Nobel Chemicals B.V. 26435077 Fax: 1-203-822-9820 Croda
Netherlands contact@beraca.com cosmetics@centerchem.com Edison, NJ USA
Tel: 31-33-467-6444 www.beraca.com www.centerchem.com Tel: 1-800-526-5294, 1-732-417-
Fax: 31-33-467-6159 0800
Bio Component Research Chemyunion Quimica Ltda Fax: 1-732-417-0804
AkzoNobel, Personal Care Elmwood Park, NJ USA CEP 04144-020 Saude Sao Paulo, thomas.castles@croda.com
Bridgewater, NJ USA Tel: 1-201-791-8700 Brazil www.crodapersonalcare.com
Tel: 1-800-906-9977 info@bcringredients.com Tel: 55-11-2173-0103
Fax: 1-908-707-3664 www.bcringredients.com Fax: 55-11-2173-0100 Custom Ingredients, Inc.
personalcare.usa@akzonobel.com intlsales@chemyunion.com.br Chester, SC USA
www.akzonobel.com/personalcare Bio-Botanica Inc. www.chemyunion.com.br Tel: 1-803-377-1213
Hauppauge, NY USA Fax: 1-803-581-5802
Amedeo Brasca & Co. srl Tel: 1-800-645-5720, 1-631-231- Clariant Int. Ltd. sales@custoblend.com
Origgio Italy 5522 Muttenz Switzerland www.custoblend.com
Tel: 39-02-3351-2243 Fax: 1-631-231-7332 Tel: 41-61-469-5351
Fax: 39-02-3354-9210 msysler@bio-botanica.com anu.desikan@clariant.com DKSH North America, Inc.
info@abpersonalcare.com www.bio-botanica.com www.personalcare.clariant.com Mt. Arlington, NJ USA
www.abpersonalcare.com Tel: 1-973-810-5511
Biosil Technologies Inc. CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Fax: 1-973-810-5521
american private label Allendale, NJ USA Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH info.us@dksh.com
miami, FL USA Tel: 1-201-825-8800 Berlin Germany www.dksh.com
Tel: 9546784200 Fax: 1-201-825-8810 Tel: 49-30-8510260
bioinfo@biosiltech.com Fax: 49-30-85102685 Dow Corning Corp.
Amyris Inc. www.biosiltech.com info@clr-berlin.com Midland, MI USA
Emeryville, CA USA www.clr-berlin.com Tel: 1-989-496-6000
Tel: 1-510-450-0761 Botaneco Fax: 1-989-496-8026
info@amyris.com Calgary, AB Canada Coast Southwest Inc. lifesciences@dowcorning.com
www.amyris.com Tel: 1-403-668-6685 Placentia, CA USA www.dowcorning.com/personalcare
info@botaneco.ca Tel: 1-800-621-0500, 1-714-524-
Arista Industries Inc. www.botaneco.ca 2777 DSM Nutritional Products
Wilton, CT USA Fax: 1-714-524-8363 Parsippany, NJ USA
Tel: 1-800-255-6457, 1-203-761- Botanic Innovations, LLC info@coastsouthwest.com Tel: 1-800-526-0189
1009 Spooner, WI USA www.coastsouthwest.com webshop.dnpna@dsm.com
Fax: 1-203-761-4980 Tel: 1-800-719-9878, 1-715-635- www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com
7513

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DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Gattefoss SAS giusi.losi@indena.com Lonza Consumer Care
Products Saint-Priest Cedex France www.indena.com South Plainfield, NJ USA
Wilmington, DE USA Tel: 33-0-4-722-298-00 Tel: 1-908-561-5200
Tel: 1-866-404-7933, 1-302-695- Fax: 33 -0-4 789 045 67 Innospec lonzapc.arch@lonza.com
7861 infocos@gattefosse.com Ellesmere Port United Kingdom www.lonzaconsumercare.com
David.G.Shaw@dupont.com www.gattefosse.com Tel: 1-877-700-0302, 0151-355-
www.duponttateandlyle.com 3611 Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.
Givaudan Active Beauty Fax: 0151 356 2349 Brecksville, OH USA
Earth Supplied Products LLC Argenteuil France emea-pc@innospecinc.com Tel: 1-800-379-5389, 1-216-447-5000
Naples, FL USA Tel: 33-3-26-88-84-10 www.innospecinc.com Fax: 1-216-447-5740
Tel: 1-239-598-5088 global.cosmetic@givaudan.com personalcare@lubrizol.com
Fax: 1-239-598-5015 www.givaudan.com INOLEX www.lubrizol.com/personalcare
sales@espllc.us Philadelphia, PA USA
www.espllc.us Grant Industries Inc Tel: 1-800-521-9891, 1-215-271- Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
Elmwood Park, NJ USA 0800 Quebec, QC Canada
Ele Corporation Tel: 1-201-791-8700 Fax: 1-215-271-2621 Tel: 1-877-886-4739, 1-418-653-6888
McCook, IL USA Fax: 1-201-791-3887 info@INOLEX.com Fax: 1-418-653-6005
Tel: 1-708-442-9100 info@grantinc.com www.INOLEX.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
sales@elecorporation.com www.grantinc.com www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.elecorporation.com International Cosmetic Science
GREENTECH Centre A/S McKinley Resources Inc.
Element E LLC 63360 Saint Beauzire Cedex France Lystrup Denmark Dallas, TX USA
Jericho, NY USA Tel: 33-4-73-33-99-00 Tel: 45-8622-9986 Tel: 1-972-620-9730
Tel: 1-516-817-8168 Fax: 33-4-73-33-91-32 info@icsc.dk Fax: 1-972-421-1860
Fax: 1-516-942-7509 greentech@greentech.fr www.icsc.dk info@mckinleyresources.com
sales@elementchemicals.com www.greentech.fr www.mckinleyresources.com
www.elementchemicals.com Jeen International Corp.
The Hallstar Company Fairfield, NJ USA Mibelle Biochemistry
Ester India Chicago, IL USA Tel: 1-800-771-5336, 1-973-439- Buchs Switzerland
Vadodara India Tel: 1-877-427-4255, 1-312-385- 1401 Tel: 41-62-836-17-31
Tel: 91-9898001188 4494 Fax: 1-973-439-1402 Fax: 41-62-836-14-05
esterindia@hotmail.com Fax: 1-330-929-3616 info@jeen.com info@mibellebiochemistry.com
www.esterindia.com customerservice@hallstar.com www.jeen.com www.mibellebiochemistry.com
www.hallstar.com
Evonik Industries AG Kemin Micro Powders Inc.
Essen Germany Handa Fine Chemicals Des Moines, IA USA Tarrytown, NY USA
Tel: 49-201-173-3170 Nottingham United Kingdom Tel: 1-800-777-8307, 1-515-559- Tel: 1-914-793-4058
Fax: 49 201 173-713170 Tel: 44-0-115-976-2676 5100 Fax: 1-914-472-7098
personal-care@evonik.com Fax: 44 -0-844 358 3444 Fax: 1-515-559-5299 mpi@micropowders.com
www.evonik.com/personal-care sales@handafc.com personalcare@kemin.com www.mpipersonalcare.com
www.handafc.com www.kemin.com/personalcare
ExcelVite Sdn. Bhd. MMP, Inc.
Chemor, Perak Malaysia I & W Research Inc. Kyowa Hakko USA Inc. South Plainfield, NJ USA
Tel: 6052014192 West Vancouver, BC Canada New York, NY USA Tel: 1-908-561-4435
info@excelvite.com Tel: 1-866-783-0009, 1-360-326- Tel: 1-212-319-5353 Fax: 1-908-561-4780
www.excelvite.com 6446 Fax: 1-212-421-1283 sales.us@mmpinc.com
Fax: 1-360-326-6446 info@kyowa-usa.com www.mmpinc.com
Fine Organics wpretorius@i-and-w.com www.kyowa-usa.com
Mumbai India www.i-and-w.com Molash Baruch LLC
Tel: 91-22-2102-5000 Lanco S.A. Accra Ghana
info@fineorganics.com iActive Naturals, Inc. Montevideo Uruguay Tel: 233-502084648
www.fineorganics.com/ Peoria, IL USA Tel: 598-22223823 wmochia@gmail.com
Tel: 1-309-495-7274 info@lanco.com.uy
Floratech info@iactivenaturals.com www.lanco.com.uy MORRE-TEC Industries, Inc.
Chandler, AZ USA www.iactivenaturals.com Union, NJ USA
Tel: 1-480-545-7000 Lipoid Kosmetik AG Tel: 1-908-688-9009
Fax: 1-480-892-3000 IBR Ltd. Steinhausen ZG Switzerland Fax: 1-908-688-9005
sales@floratech.com Rehovot Israel Tel: 41-41-748-3333 sales@morretec.com
www.floratech.com Tel: 1-972-8-9465433 Fax: 41-41-748-3344 www.morretec.com
Fax: 1-972-8-9472174 info@lipoid-kosmetik.com
Formulator Sample Shop, LLC ibr-marketing@ibrweb.com www.lipoid-kosmetik.com Natural Plant Products
Lincolnton, NC USA www.ibrweb.com Salem, OR USA
Tel: 1-704-276-7099 Lipotec USA, Inc. Tel: 1-503-363-6402
info@formulatorsampleshop.com Indena SpA Lewisville, TX USA sales@meadowfoam.com
www.formulatorsampleshop.com Milano Italy Tel: 1-972-221-7500 meadowfoam.com
Tel: 39-02-574-961 Fax: 972 221 3324
Fax: 39-02-574-04620 salesoffice@lipotec.com
www.lipotec.com

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Naturalin Bio-Resources Co Ltd Tel: 49-40-521-00-0 Squaolive Variati Srl
Changsha City China Fax: 49-40-521-244 Cordoba Spain 20049 Concorezzo (MI) Italy
Tel: 8673184430651 sai@schuelke.com Tel: 34-66-040-7388 Tel: 39-39-61158-1
Fax: 867384834162 www.schuelke.com info@squaolive.com Fax: 39-39-6041340
sales@naturalin.com www.squalene-olive.com www.variati.it
www.naturalin.com Seatons (Croda Group)
East Yorkshire United Kingdom Sun Chemical Corp. VAV Life Sciences Pvt Ltd
Naturex Inc. Tel: 44-1405-860551 Cincinnati, OH USA Mumbai India
South Hackensack, NJ USA Fax: 44-1405-861767 Tel: 1-800-543-2323, 1-513-681- Tel: 912222836802
Tel: 1-201-440-5000 pc@croda.com/seatons 5950 Fax: 912222836809
Fax: 1-201-342-8000 www.croda.com/seatons kelly.dobos@sunchemical.com arun@vav.in
naturex.us@naturex.com www.sunchemical.com www.vav.in
www.naturex.com Sederma
78612 Le Perray-en-Yvelines Sytheon Ltd. Vevy Europe Spa
NATUROCHIM S.A.S. Cedex France Boonton, NJ USA 16131 Genoa Italy
Gif-Sur-Yyvette France Tel: 33-0-1-34-84-10-10 Tel: 1-973-988-1075 Tel: 39-010-52251
Tel: 33-0-1-64-86-52-90 Fax: 33-0-1-34-84-11-30 Fax: 1-973-909-9922 Fax: 39-010-5225025
Fax: 33-0-1-64-86-58-33 sederma@sederma.fr info@sytheonltd.com info@vevy.com
info@naturochim.com www.sederma.com www.sytheonltd.com www.vevy.com
www.naturochim.com
Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd. T.H. Hilson Co. VitaeNaturals
Paradigm Science Inc Osaka Japan Wheaton, IL USA Toledo Spain
Annadale, NJ USA Tel: 81-72-987-2072, 81-72-987- Tel: 1-800-665-3087, 1-630-665- Tel: 34-925-851-013
Tel: 1-908-238-0204 2626 3085 Fax: 34-925-851-021
Fax: 1-908-235-4209 wada_yu@seiwakasei.co.jp Fax: 1-630-665-0196 juanms@vitaenaturals.com
sales@paradigmscience.com www.seiwakasei.co.jp/en lisa@thhilson.com vitaenaturals.com
www.paradigmscience.com www.thhilson.com
Seppic Vitamin C60 BioResearch Corp.
Pilot Chemical Co. Puteaux France TCR Industries Inc. Chuo-ku Yesu Japan
Cincinnati, OH USA Tel: 33-1-42-91-41-18 La Palma, CA USA Tel: 81335173251
Tel: 1-800-707-6548, 1-513-326- pcseppicinc@airliquide.com Tel: 1-877-827-1444, 1-714-521- Fax: 81335173260
0600 www.seppic.com 5222 info@vc60.com
Fax: 1-513-326-0601 Fax: 1-714-521-1636 www.vc60.com/cn/index.html
info@pilotchemical.com Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd. salesinfo@tcrindustries.com
www.pilotchemical.com Tokyo 100-0004 Japan www.tcrindustries.com Wacker Chemie AG
Tel: 81-3-3246-5280 Munchen Germany
Premier Specialties, Inc Fax: 81-3-3246-5371 TRI-K Industries Tel: 49-(0)-89-6279-0
Middlesex, NJ USA m.takahashi@sec.shinetsu.co.jp Denville, NJ USA Fax: 49-(0)-89-6279-1770
Tel: 1-732-469-6615 www.shinetsu.co.jp Tel: 1-973-298-8850 www.wacker.com
Fax: 1-732-469-6772 Fax: 1-973-298-8940
customer.service@ Silab info@tri-k.com Welch Holme & Clark Co.
premierfragrances.com 19108 Brive France www.tri-k.com Newark, NJ USA
www.premierfragrances.com Tel: 33-5-55-84-58-40 Tel: 1-973-465-1200
Fax: 33-5-55-84-95-64 Ultra Chemical Inc. Fax: 1-973-465-7332
Presperse, Inc. silab@silab.fr Red Bank, NJ USA www.welch-holme-clark.com
Somerset, NJ USA www.silab.fr Tel: 1-732-224-0200 Wellman Advanced Materials
Tel: 1-732-356-5200 Fax: 1-732-224-0017 Troy, MI USA
Fax: 732-356-3533 Siltech LLC info@ultrachem.com Tel: 2485614899
drewlaba@presperse.com Lawrenceville, GA USA www.ultrachem.com ann.hawley@wellmanplastics.com
www.presperse.com Tel: 1-678-442-0210 wellmanam.com/lanolin
Fax: 1-678-442-9624 Universal Preserv-a-chem Inc.
Provital SA Tony@siltechpersonalcare.com Somerset, NJ USA Zenitech
08210 Barbera del Valles Spain www.siltechpersonalcare.com Tel: 1-732-568-1266 Toronto, CT USA
Tel: 34-93-719-2350 Fax: 1-732-568-1299 Tel: 1-800-915-0066, 1-973-767-
Fax: 34-93-719-0294 Sinerga USA info@upichem.com 8667
www.provital.com New York, NY USA www.upichem.com Fax: 1-416-741-6475
Tel: 2129473333 lwitham@tc-usa.com
Sabinsa Corp. info@sinerga.it Vantage Specialty Ingredients www.tc-usa.com
East Windsor, NJ USA www.sinerga.it Warren, NJ USA
Tel: 1-732-777-1111 Tel: 1-973-345-8600
Fax: 1-732-777-1443 Solabia Fax: 1-973-345-8365
kavita@sabinsa.com Pantin Cedex France Marketing.PC.US@vantagegrp.
www.sabinsa.com Tel: 00-33-1-48-10-19-40 com
Fax: 00 33 1 48 91 18 77 www.vantagegrp.com
schulke www.solabia.com
Norderstedt Germany

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