HHO Generators Demo

We have been experimenting with a lot of different designs for hydrogen generators. One of
our goals was to make a more efficient unit that uses less power and therefore builds less
waste heat.

One of these units is attached to this Pontiac Sunfire. My son has been running this car to
and from school and work. He has been putting on about 600 kilometers per month. As
well, I have been taking it for long drives at night. One thing I found is that different
driving styles make a real difference. My son drives it like he stole it and this sure puts
fuel mileage in the backseat. Even with higher revvs on the engine and faster starts and
stops, he consistently got more than 25% gains from running our generator.

We used no electrolytes or baking soda in this unit. Straight tap water only. There were no
sensor modifications made to this car. The unit is in front of the radiator and behind the
grill, and measures 3.5 by 18 long. It draws between 2.5 and 4 amps depending on run
time and amount of water conditioning.

This video is of a long drive on a winding road with hills and valleys. Average speed is
above the speed limit all the way. As you can see in the video, when I figure out how much
gasoline I use I fill the tank to an excessive amount to avoid skewing the results.

3 Comments

1. Im well verse in electronic and microcontroller. So, I was thinking to built a circuit
to sense the charging current to the battery, so that the HHO generator only taps off
enough current but not too much until the battery is not charged properly. Also, I
intent to implement step down switching power supply to power the HHO
generator. The output of the supply could be tied to the throttle and capped at the
maximum limit minus the charging. That way, the hydrogen to fuel ratio is always
maintained, and the HHO generator can be switch off when theres not enough
charging.
2. Patrick Hutsler | September 15th, 2008 at 6:38 pm

I have been hearing more and more about these kits. I am told you just have to fill
the reservoir once a week and add a few teaspoons of Baking Soda. Can this be
right? How soon will the government make this illegal. It sounds too good to be
true. I want to convert all of my cars TODAY. How do I do it?

3. Scott | September 29th, 2008 at 4:14 pm

I installed one cell on my 08 GMC Sierra and let it run this past weekend. For
power I am using my 12 DC outlet in the cab of the truck. I simply ran wires into
the engine to power the cell. Then I ran a hose from the cell to the air box where I
drilled a hole between the air filter and the mass air flow sensor. My truck actually
got 1.8 MGP WORSE. I drove through about 20 gals of gasoline and got about 13
mpg. When I unhooked the cell, I got about 15 mpg on my next tank of gas. What
am I doing wrong?

1
 Scott

HHO Hydrogen Generators and Storing Pressurized

HHO Gas
HHO Information July 3rd, 2008

There have been a few comments by hopeful do it yourselfers who want to store up HHO
gas in an old propane tank, etc. This is normally not done for a variety of reasons, and some
of the biggest concerns are safety. Here is one comment we received:

The only way that I thought of possibly pressurizing the HHO would be to have the entire
system pressurized. So that when the HHO bubbles are made it automatically pressurizes
the tank. Then when its at the pressure you desire turn the valve to off and bleed the cell to
unpressurize it to add more water or do maintenance. The highest pressure you could
probably achieve is about 35-40 PSI without spending a ridiculous amount of money on
expensive equipment. The tanks they are using for Hydrogen prototype cars have a cap at
about 10,000 PSI But those tanks alone are about $5,000. The main problem here is
pressurizing the HHO cell and lines without leaks or explosion.
From what ive seen online people seem to be yielding about 2liters per minute off their
HHO cell and receive about 25% increase in efficiency. Wouldnt you then be able to run
your vehicle completly off of 5 HHO cells running simultaneously?

Ok, so heres a few things to consider. Hydrogen weakens normal metals and materials.
This leads to cracks and leaks. A lot of research was done by accredited labs, etc on
hydrogen storage years ago. My understanding of the matter is that high pressure hydrogen
will find a leak if even the smallest pinhole is present, and escape to atmosphere. Or, escape
to the trunk and interior of your car! Also, the average home built unit will have trouble
holding much pressure and the gas will start causing small leaks in your system.

Also, HHO is an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen which no sane person would
try to store in a jury rigged homemade container in their vehicle. Its flat out dangerous.
Most gases that are stored need oxygen to mix with them to make them burn, ie. propane.
The mixing is already done with HHO generators, and this is why sometimes you can have
a flashback to your production unit. If you have a little flashback and ruin your generator,
that is one thing. How about packing a bomb around in your trunk? Those storage tanks
mentioned are for pure hydrogen, which none of us are making with our simple generators.

The best bet in my opinion is to produce the HHO gas and burn it right away as needed in
your engine. Never have your hydrogen generator running with the ignition off. Use a
flashback arrestor on any high production unit. And always experiment in a well ventilated
area when testing your new unit. You dont want to take any chances.

If you must store hydrogen, you need to have ALL STAINLESS STEEL fittings. You
need to use a stainless steel tank. Better yet, an expensive but safe metal hydride tank
which will store the hydrogen gas in a solid form. Remember, a regular pressure pump
might not have high quality stainless steel insides or corrosion resistant parts unless it is
specifically built to handle acid or hydrogen. This goes for most valves, regulators or other
parts you might think would work in a pressurized system.

2
7 Comments
1. Walt | July 19th, 2008 at 5:09 pm

I agree.

I would like to comment further on this paragraph:

Also, HHO is an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen which no sane person
would try to store in a jury rigged homemade container in their vehicle. Its flat out
dangerous. Most gases that are stored need oxygen to mix with them to make them
burn, ie. propane. The mixing is already done with HHO generators, and this is why
sometimes you can have a flashback to your production unit. If you have a little
flashback and ruin your generator, that is one thing. How about packing a bomb
around in your trunk? Those storage tanks mentioned are for pure hydrogen, which
none of us are making with our simple generators.

Comment:
Even if you could find a pressure vessel (tank) to store your HHO in consider the
first sentence in the above paragraph. HHO is indeed an explosive mixture of gases!
This mixture will combust (explode) spontaneoulsy at some pressure / temperature
point. I have no idea what that point is and have no desire to find out.

A tank pressurized with HHO in the trunk of your car may be exposed to
temperatures 120F or higher when the ambient temperature is 90 to 100F. I dont
know if resultant pressure increase in the tank will exceed its pressure rating. It
wont matter if the gas mixture reaches its spontaneous combustion point.

There are a couple of videos on you tube that show explosions when HHO trapped
in a plastic .5 liter water bottle is ignited. As impressive as these explosions are they
are nothing compared to the blast that would result from a pressure tank filled with
HHO going off.

2. Bone | August 4th, 2008 at 10:48 pm

As an indutrial firefighter, I have to agree. Hydrogen does not just find pinholes in
the metal it creates them. The hydrogen molecule is so small that it actually will
penetrate most metals. I have seen the results of improper metal used for hydrogen.
And as mentioned, HHO is an ignitable mixture already having most of the fuel and
O2. Being that it is in gaseuos form it is ready to ignite, it does not need to vaporize.
The reason that you do not put water on a combustable metal fire is because the fire
is so hot the it seperates the hydrogen and oxygen giving an explosive reaction.

3. james | August 26th, 2008 at 7:04 pm

Never ever store HHO.Hydrogen should only be stored by its self not with oxygen.
YOU WILL BLOW YOUSELF UP.

4. Jeff | August 30th, 2008 at 4:21 pm

Can you build up say 5-10 psig. within the hho generator. And then use this as and
input to a regulator and then off to a lesser need to a gas pressurized system, such as
a gas fired water heater?
3
 5. james | September 10th, 2008 at 3:01 pm

hho generators are designed to provide hho on demand. When the engine is
running the hho generator. Hho is added to your engine to boost the burn of
gasoline, not replace it. Gasoline only burns at about 20% , so the hho increases
the burn rate, thus getting an increase in gas mileage.

6. Josh | September 12th, 2008 at 8:02 pm

I built a generator of my own and i am getting a fifty percent increase in gas milage
so im not complaining. i do have one question that i have been trying to figure
out how do you keep it from freezing while not in use during winter nights?

How to Connect Your HHO Hydrogen Generator to Your

Car
HHO Information, Uncategorized June 13th, 2008
4
More questions than we can handle! W dont know all the answers either, but we will try to
pass on some of what we have learned from our trial and error. I am going to post some of
my thoughts on your comments so everyone will find them.

From: Gary Bruner

Hey guys I ended up making my anode out of stainless steel woven mesh and it works great
and I made a simple housing using your design.now how in the hell do I hook it up to
my car. Again thanks in advance and with any luck Ill be able to tell you about my road
test soon!

From: Wooly

Hi Tim. I was wondering if their was a way to have the unit so that it only produced hho
when the motor is running. eg: alternater. Or will it just take it from the battery anyway?

I want the unit only running when the motor has started is if people sit with the ignition on
for some time. With a litre of hho a minute, it would soon be coming out the exhaust pipe
in no time.

Disclaimer: You are responsible for anything you do with HHO information. Be careful!
Make sure you take precautions, and dont assume we have mentioned everything! Hook an
untested unit up to a vehicle at your own risk! As far as hooking up your unit, there are a
few things to remember. As someone pointed out in the comments, there is a heated wire in
the air intake sensors to watch out for. This wire could cause an explosion, or flashback.
That leaves the space between that sensor and the throttle body as safe. Dont hook up on
the upstream side of that sensor! If you dont know vehicles, you need to find someone
local who can help you out on where to put the HHO gas into the engine.

Always use a fuse on your wiring. This will help you avoid cooking any wiring in the
case of a short circuit. Test your unit off the vehicle to make sure everything is good to
go. Depending on how much gas your unit is producing and where you send it into the
motor, you probably need a flashback arrestor to protect your generator.

For wiring into your vehicle, we cant advise you on that since there are so many different
variables on all the different models. If one of your buddies knows cars, quiz him up.
Otherwise, talk to someone who installs car alarms, stereos, command start or
handsfree phone kits for a living. They know more about what wire to tap into than any
backyard mechanic.

You definitely have something there, Wooly. It is really important to make sure your unit
isnt running when the vehicle is shut off. That is why, for wiring, you should get
professional advice or help. If it is your own vehicle, I guess you can take your chances
with jury rigging a simple switch temporarily if you want. Dont modify a vehicle for
someone else and make it dangerous to use.

15 Comments
1. Steve G | June 16th, 2008 at 8:19 pm

5
 A vehicles fuse panel is wired 2 ways. One side is hot with the key on and the other
is always hotwith the key on ot off. Using a 12 volt test light probe until you find a
terminal that is hot only with the key in the run position.

2. jnathan albury | June 18th, 2008 at 12:15 am

i am an installer from the bahamas if you purchase a dual battery isolator and install
it between the alternator and battery using only one of the two batter taps and
connect the generator to the same tap as the alternator then it will not allow current
to backfeed from the battery. an isolator is just a bank of diodes setup to prevent
current from being transfered between batteries when using two but i have used it
on only one battery for a similar reason. hope i could help

3. Trevor | June 30th, 2008 at 1:44 pm

Hey with reguards to how to hook it up. As far as the gas I simply drilled a hole in
the plastis piece of the intake nearest the engine (make sure its off the engine first) I
didnt use any conectors just drilled a hole a little smaller then my 1/4 I.D. 3/8 O.D.
plastic line and stuffed it in. As for the wiring I went with a PWM to keep the amps
from snowballing and used a selonoid. The selonoid is actully hooked up through
my daytime running lights. Downfall with this is it turnes off when my e-brake is
on and when high beams are used. But other then that I have had great success.

4. Kevin C | June 30th, 2008 at 8:15 pm

I have hooked up one to my car and cant get any better gas mileage. I know it is
generating gas because it is bubbling. My issue must be with getting the gas into the
car. I have tried connecting it to a vaccuum line and between the sensor and the
throttle body. Im getting a little frustrated and Im not even looking for miracles. I
have been getting almost 30mpg in my 2.8L pontiac 6000 using some hyper miler
techniques. I was hoping to increase that to 33 or 34 with a hydrogen generator. Any
one have any suggestions?

5. Tony Hughes | July 6th, 2008 at 6:05 pm

I have talked to some certified mechanics about the assurance of the unit not
running unless the car engine is as well. They suggested getting an oil pressure
switch. This switch is commonly used in drag racing. Its purpose is to break the
electrical connection to the fuel pump if the oil pressure drops below a preset
pressure. This is to keep fuel from spraying everywhere if the car wrecks. The oil
pressure switch wires to your oil sending unit. Very simply put. If your engine is not
running and producing oil pressure, then the oil pressure switch, when wired to your
hydroxy gererator, will not allow current to flow to the generator.

6. Walter | July 7th, 2008 at 7:00 pm

Tony, the oil pressure switch is a good idea.

Correction though, the pressure switch is completely seperate from the oil pressure
sending unit. So they are NOT wired together. They will be pressured from the
same oil gallery but not electrically connected.
6
 The contacts have limited current rating so will have to tie into the control relay
series with a on/off control switch.
Cheers,
Walter

7. Rob Harrison | July 9th, 2008 at 3:54 am

Kevin, check to be sure there isnt a check valve in your intake tube for your
vacuum line. Most vacuum lines have those to prevent pressure backfeeding into
the intake from the engine, or vice versa, and this might be actually blocking your
HHO from going in. Its worth checking in any case.

If I were you, Id install a fitting (pipe fittings work fine for this) into your plastic
intake tube somewhere and connect your generator to that. Just be sure its after any
large sensors on the intake (the mass air sensor in particular) or it might fudge up
some readings, or worse.

Im quit eager to try this myself but I have a feeling a turbo car will not be easy to
retrofit. Im looking into options

8. Bruce Stables | July 27th, 2008 at 4:06 am

One way to ensure that the HOO Cell is only producing when the motor is running
is to fit a vacuum switch on the inlet manifold,wired thru a relay as necessary on the
main power supply to the cell.This ay even ith key on and motor stalled it will not
produce gas.Safety in case of an accident as well

9. rocky | August 11th, 2008 at 1:53 am

I am an Acura Master technician and the safest way I have found to wire an HHO
system is to use a 30amp SPDT relay and use the fuel pump wire to to trigger the
coil side of the relay to activate the system, this way, if the fuel pump is running
99.9% of the time, so is the engine. This will prevent excessive gas build up and
possible explosion on start up. Hope this info helps.

10. Nuclear1 | August 11th, 2008 at 6:35 pm

I have found that the best way to make sure that the HHO generator is not running
when the engine is off is to use a vacuum switch tapped into the brake booster
vacuum line. If the engine is not running, no vacuum is produced and the switch
remains open. Then, connect the vacuum switch to a 30 Amp relay coil. The fuel
pump wire is a good idea but the fuel pump runs when the ignition key is turned to
the on position with the car not yet running. This will not guarantee that the
hydrogen generator is off when the engine is off. A vacuum switch can be
purchased from DIGIKEY for about $20.00 and is good insurance. Purchase a
switch that actuates at 2 of vacuum and has normally open (N.O.) contacts.

11. Gregg | September 20th, 2008 at 7:33 pm

Hey does anyone have the real truth on what could be long term damage if any to
your engine and its components from running an HHO cell on it? this website is
7
 great. i built a cell for my 06 chevy aveo with two plates 3/4 inch wide by 10
inches long in a 2 by 12 pvc housing with a bubbler about the same size. No
mods to engine or any sensors. use to average 33 mpg but after running the cell i
got 43 mpg and it draws only a few amps. used distilled water and a little baking
soda. doesnt create a lot of HHO but sure seems to help.

12. MooXtreme | September 30th, 2008 at 7:29 pm

You can hook your relay into the supply side of the fuel pump relay. It has a four
second prime but then it shuts off until you start the car. The engine has to be
running for the cell to opirate. Make sure that you use a fuse.
I hope that helps.

13. Jerry | October 5th, 2008 at 4:44 pm

Soooo, this is all sounding good but can and how can I run this on a carb engine?

14. zcaveman | October 11th, 2008 at 4:13 pm

If you wire it to your ignition switch, the fuel cell will only run when the ignition
is on. I have found you can control the amps by the amount of catalyst you put in
the water. Using baking soda works ok, but using a teaspoon full of sodium
hydroxide per liter of distilled water works better. Tee your incoming HHO line
and have 1 tube to your fuel intake and the other to your PVC valve. This way
you feed the HHO to your exaust while in idle, because your throttle is closed in
idle and there is no vacuum to draw in the HHO.

15. Tim | October 11th, 2008 at 7:51 pm

Zcaveman: Sounds great, except for you have misunderstood vacuum. There is
more vacuum at lower throttle amounts. The more throttle you give the engine, the
wider the butterfly valve opens and the less vacuum you have. Therefore, you have
lots of vacuum at idle and the least amount at full throttle.
Teeing to the PVC valve wont make any difference, since this is under vacuum as
well.

Where to Find Stainless Steel For HHO Hydrogen

Generators & Fuel Cells
HHO Information June 7th, 2008

8
 Another question weve been hearing, is where to find
stainless steel for your HHO Fuel Cell. There are a lot of places to look, all around us.
Aside from the obvious choice of a metal manufacturer, machine shop or a welding supply
store, even Costco has stainless cookwear.

Our first HHO hydrogen generator was made out of a stainless steel stock pot. We bought it
brand new for $9.99 at a nearby department store. You cant cut stainless with an acetylene
torch, so other methods had to be found. An angle grinder with a zip disk was used to cut
two strips out of the pot. They were pretty thin and hard to work with, but the anode did
produce hydrogen right off the first try. Note: there were a lot of razor sharp edges and a
couple of cuts, so be careful if you try this! Wear safety glasses and gloves if you use any
grinding or cutting equipment.

Since then we have been buying plate in 4 foot by 8 foot sheets. Since this isnt practical
for everyone, you can use a variety of kitchen and household items. From platters, to pots,
to pitchers, many items are made from 304 stainless.

Speaking of which, some would have you believe that you need to use 316 stainless. We
cant figure out why you would need that, unless you will be running acid or hydrogen
sulfide through your HHO fuel cell. 316 has extra hardener and anti corrosive elements to
it, which also make it harder to bend and cut. So far, none of the 304 we have used has
degraded measurably. 304 will conduct a current just as well as 316, and both are non
magnetic.

If yo cant find stainless steel plate to build your hydrogen generator, we can help you out.
We can supply 16 gauge 4 x 4 & 4 x 12 304 stainless steel plates, precut and ready to
use. The details can be found in the Storefront widget on the right side. Before you buy,
look around and see if you can locate what you need locally to save yourself shipping.

12 Comments

1. jeremy | June 7th, 2008 at 10:50 pm

I am curious in these devices. Can any residual water still seep or flow into the
engine? I would like to install on in my truck but I am hesitant in doing such as I do
not want the engine to corrode or rust.

2. Aron | June 10th, 2008 at 12:11 am

9
 Hello Jeremy. Water from a hho generator should not rust your engine. We will post
a video showing you how to make a quick condensation trap. The amount of water
coming from a hho generator is a small percentage of what an engine will ingest
while driving in fog, rain or living near the coast.

3. Greg Blunier | June 15th, 2008 at 2:12 pm

I am still investigating different ways (materials) to make a HHO generator. But I

do know I plan on using 316 ss tubing that you can get at piping and equipment
stores for my anode. I use this at work for gas measurement. It is easy to bend,
holds it shape, and not to expensive. It will be in the shape of a coil inside the
container. I have a book from an auto parts store to help me with wiring and where
vacuum lines are ect it is simular to a chiltons manual. All the auto part chain
stores have them. Hope i have helped some to combat the oil companies from
stuffing their pockets with our money.

4. azizan | June 24th, 2008 at 4:40 pm

I also had difficulties to find stainless steel wire.. but just for the purpose of
experimenting the idea, i just bought stainless steel fishing lines from a marine store
.. i bought the biggest diameter i could find in the store.. and it works just fine.. the
only problem is , it easily accumulate deposit on the +(ve) side of the coil so i had
to clean up the coil about every 2000 miles of usage.
Good Luck guys..

5. Mr. Ron | July 14th, 2008 at 9:47 pm

Hi guys. I have build a generator with the pvc pipe and SS plates, 2x9, and I am
having trouble with the lead wiring getting to hot. I drained all the water and
checked for a short by found none. I have switched the wires around and still the
same thing. It is like the unit is shorting out. This last time I melted the coating on
the lead wire. My case is 4 PVC pipe about 12 long. I have a bubbler, a check
valve, and a flashback arrestor in place. When I tested the unit off the vehicle, it
produced about 2 liters of gas in about 1 minute. Please help and thanks for being
out there.

6. Aron | July 15th, 2008 at 10:45 pm

Hello Mr.

Ron Your generator sounds like it puts out good volume but it is probably drawing
20 amps or more. If you are not using 10 guage wire you should. If you are then try
not using electrolytes. If you are not using electrolytes then check the spacing on
you plates, you might have to tweak one or widen the gap on all of them. Try a gap
of 5mm.

7. PIke | July 21st, 2008 at 1:46 pm

I am interested in building a generator and I have a question. Where do you get a

flashback arrestor, can you make your own? Also, does it matter how much surface
area there is on the Positive charged anode?
10
 Pike

8. matt B | August 22nd, 2008 at 3:52 pm

One easy place to get stainless that is already cut into usable chunks is in the
electrical department of Home Depot, Lowes, etc Get stainless outlet covers. I was
also thinking of stainless covers for shower drains and installing them vertically,
with all of the holes I was thinking that they would bubble well, but then refill the
space with water easily too.

as or a good elctrolyte solution I saw this one which is eas, household stuff and not
caustic:

3 TABLESPOONS BAKING SODA

SHOT GLASS WHITE VINEGAR (2OZ)
(CAN DO OVER LIGHT HEAT TO MAKE IT MIX FASTER)
3 CUPS RAIN WATER, DISTILLED,

SNOW ETC
1 CUP ISOPROPOL RUBBING ALCHOHOL
2 CAPFULLS HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

9. paul macleod | September 16th, 2008 at 11:28 am

Hi all,

I built a SMACK generator but had to downsize to fit into a 01 town and country
van.. so 3 dia pvc about 10 in height.. holds 1 1/2 liters of distilled h2o and I
added 1/2 teaspoon of sodium hydroxide, out-put at 12.5 volts and 16 amps is about
1/2 liter per minute. I have 6 SS plates plus 2 riders ( not actually in the circuit)
But it gets very very hot temp is over 180 degrees after 40 minutes at idle
speed. TOO HOT.

Question is that somewhere between output and heat there is a workable level.. so
what is a minimum output L/M that would gain benefit? to reduce the heat I
suppose means reducing amps.. or figure out a way while in a a cramped space to
cool the thing as is.

I would love to hear from all. I know that the heat issue is common and based on
the technology and, in the spirit of keeping costs and space to a minimum, are there
any untold ideas out there?

Bubbler Tanks and Housings for HHO Hydrogen

Generators & Fuel Cells
HHO Information June 6th, 2008

11
We have gotten a lot of questions about bubbler containers, overheating of HHO generators
and things related.Here is a recent comment:

Hey guys, I build a simple HHO generator and I got a good output I tested it
already with my nissan sentra 1.6L 93model, my exhaus emit drops of water. My
only problem is the water inside my HHO generator getting too hot, do I need to
add cooling device or have something to adjust in my generator? I used spiral
stainless wire with 13 turns .5 inch gap., distilled water with 1 teaspoon of baking
soda. thanks,
Allan / Manila, Philippines

First off, good work so far, Allen. There are quite a few things to cover here. The water can
get pretty hot if your container can handle it. If it is made out of PVC, you have to be
careful that it stays below 70 degrees Celsius or the plastic will start to creep and change
shape as the material becomes slightly liquid. A stainless steel or internally coated metal
container could of course handle any temperature you might subject it to. A glass container
can take heat but not impacts or any possible explosions. If you have to use PVC or other
plastic, you will need to cool your fuel cell. Similarly, if your hydrogen generator is boiling
the water it will need cooling to keep the water from steaming out of the unit.

A bubbler tank can help circulate the water and reduce the chances of a flashback
destroying your generator at the same time. In the following video we show one experiment
we filmed using a small bubbler tank to recirculate the water. The unit we were testing was
composed of 4 stainless steel strips, 1 inch wide by 12 inches long, sandwiched together
with a 1/8 inch gap. The HHO fuel cell was drawing over 20 amps. The more amps, the
more heat produced. This small bubbler tank failed to keep the unit cool enough. Our
conclusions were that this unit would need a bubbler at least as large as the unit itself, or a
small cooler such as for a transmission. We decided to go with a smaller unit to reduce
electrical use and keep the heat production down.

13 Comments

1. ummm.install the unit in your trunkhave a 1 gallon reserve tank.use a small

aquarium pump to draw it from your unit , it then pushes the water up to the front of
your vehicle.(and have a couple of loops in itthen back to your reserveample
time for cooling just a loop system..
2. T.H.Colin Peiris | June 30th, 2008 at 1:25 pm

Dear Om!

Thanks for the nice artical. I am interested in this topic hho fuel cells. What I want
to make myself clear is what happen to the Oxigen parts of the water when it is
processing to extract hydrogen.An explanation is most welcome.

thanks again for the nice work!

3. H. Seekins | July 20th, 2008 at 10:03 pm

OK I have been all over the web trying to answer a burning question. And I do
mean burning, in terms of your HHO Generator. How to keep it cool. A few sites
12
 including this one says the bubbler tank can help circulate the water. OK how?
Where are the diagrams? I know the basic concept of an hho system is that the hho
goes from the generator, to the bubbler, and to the engine. I dont see how that cools
anything. However I did find one picture at http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?
image=generatorbubblernv5.png that says that the water from the bubbler can be
pumped into the bottom of the generator. Sounds good except that you would have
to keep stopping to fill the bubbler tank, and the generator would get overfilled. I
havent built anything yet, just spending a lot of time doing research before I do. I
want to know every little thing first.

4. Tim | July 20th, 2008 at 10:23 pm

H. Seekins:

Did you watch the video? Theres your diagram. The water circulates itself without
a pump. You dont refill anything. The only thing that gets out of the system is the
HHO gas, and the water just goes round and round. We just didnt use a big enough
bubbler and our generator was too inefficient so it made too much heat. This one is
a lesson in what doesnt work, and that is why we can tell anyone anything: because
we have tried it.
You will never know every little thing. Build something and you will learn a lot
more than peeking over shoulders on the internet.

5. Tim | July 20th, 2008 at 10:26 pm

Colin: The oxygen stays mixed with the hydrogen. Therefore it is HHO, two parts
hydrogen gas to one part oxygen gas, an explosive mixture that can be dangerous in
large amounts.

6. walter | July 20th, 2008 at 11:32 pm

reading your comments about problems using PVC or glass containers for the
generator. how about a SS pressure cooker? the cooker itself would be the ground.

7. H Seekins | July 22nd, 2008 at 1:05 am

Yes I watched the video, twice in fact. As for doing research on the internet, well I
dont think you can really build anything without some idea of what to do. I would
rather learn something and do it right instead of having my name posted in the
obituaries. Because of the internet, I got the understanding of how and why hho
generators work, some design concepts, and most importantly, safety. I do agree
though that hands on experience makes a difference, and with the rising gas prices
(current price where I live $4.23, and its been as high as $4.29), I am more than
determined to build a system. I do have another question, have you done any tests
on a bubbler made vertically instead of horizontally? You dont have to answer, I
can just do my own tests and see what happens. I was just curious about any
difference in performance, if any.

8. Viking | August 10th, 2008 at 11:22 pm

13
 I have installed a six pack (six mason jars) generator on my f-250 ford truck 2003
5.4 gas engine with 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda per jar i am producing HHO. I
have 14 amps going to each to jar so i am getting hho . I put in a 30 amp relay from
battery to generator and 40 amp inline fuse. I have a 1/4 inch silcon hose running
from the bottom nipple of the sixth jar 1/4 inch from bottom also know as bubbler. I
HAVE INJECTED THE HHO INTO THE AIR INTAKE, BUT HAS NO VACUUM
ON LINE. SO I HAVE MOVED HHO LINE ABOVE PVC ELBOW VALUE THIS
HAS A STRONG VACUUM AND I CAN CONTROL THE VACUUM WITH THE
DRIPPER VALUE. I HAVE MORE POWER, BUT I AM NOT GETTING
BETTER GAS MILAGE ONLY 15 MPG CAN ANYONE HELP ?

9. Roy Austin | September 2nd, 2008 at 12:28 am

Viking,

Your O2 sensors are telling your ECM that the exhaust is wrong. the result is that
your ECM is injecting too much fuel to compensate. Try bypassing the O2 sensors
or asking ford if there is a fixer program for your ecm.

10. George Brooks | September 19th, 2008 at 7:08 pm

I read the posting of July 22 by H. Seekins and went to the suggested site. I liked
the looks of the tank. Does anyone know where you can get these tanks at a
reasonable price. Seems like everything attached to HHO Generators tend to get a
bit expensive.

11. Jerry | October 1st, 2008 at 12:43 am

I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD Diesel, has any one had any break-downs from too
much HHO. what could happen to my engine. I dont have $7000.00 for a new one.

12. Miami Hydro Tech | October 5th, 2008 at 2:46 pm

Dear Jerry, I was reading your post, and let me tell you something, nothing wrong
can happen to you engine if you are injecting too much HHO, but remember to
modify the ECM or ECU program, or you truck could start to use more fuel than
before to install the HHO Generator.

We have severals models and accesories for you truck, just visit us at
http://www.miamihydrotech.com

Let me know what you think.

Charly

How To Make a Simple Housing For Your HHO

Hydrogen Generator 1
How To May 26th, 2008
14
 One of the most common containers being made for a
simple HHO generator is a tube made from PVC pipe.
PVC is found at hardware stores all over North
America. It is relatively inexpensive and easy to work
with. More complicate containers would be made
from stainless steel or regular steel that has been
internally coated after construction. For the home
enthusiast or tinkerer, these types of containers may
be more than they want to take on. Just to get
involved in hydrogen generators, you can build a
cheap PVC housing with just a few tools.
What You Need for one housing and a bubbler -
recirculate tank:

1. PVC pipe - 3 ,or 4

2. End caps of same size as pipe
3. 1/2 threaded fittings with 3/8 tubing outlet
4. 1/2 thread tap
5. Drill and bits
6. Wood hand saw or other tool to cut pipe
7. Plastic glue, marine epoxy or other waterproof sealant
8. PVC glue
9. 3/8 Plastic tubing or rubber fuel line tubing

The first step is to drill holes for your inlet and outlet, then use the thread tap to thread
them for your fittings. If you have never done this, you need to make a hole smaller than
the tap or you will be getting a new end cap! On our coiled anodes,we use a torch to heat
the ends of our electrical connection tabs until they are hot enough to melt holes in the
plastic, then push them through the cap. If you are using bolts or wires or some other
electrical connection, you will have to drill holes for those too. We dont recommend ANY
internal connections unless you really know what you are doing. Watch our Hydrogen
Generator Safety video for more info.

Once you have used the PVC glue to attach the bottom end cap, it is time to fit your anodes
and top end cap together, which will depend on what style of generator anodes you have
decided to use. You will need to seal with glue any spots that dont have a tight fit.

The threaded fittings need teflon tape or thread sealant to keep them from leaking. It is best
not to glue these since you might want to remove them later.

Many people put a sight glass on the side to check water level, and this is done by tapping
and threading a couple more holes on the side of your housing. Threaded fittings top and
bottom point towards each other, with a piece of clear tubing between.

Making a bubbler tank is very similar. This one should have a fitting on it for gas/ water in
from the generator, a return line, and a gas out line. The in and return lines need to be
located near the bottom of the bubbler, below the fluid level. The gas out line should be at
the highest point of the unit.

Next post we will have pictures of a complete setup.

15
Subscribe for more HHO Hydrogen articles!

6 Comments
1. sunshinedubber | May 29th, 2008 at 3:14 am

I like what you have done. Well thought out and space efficient. Glass seems to be
adventurous, so the PVC housing intrigues me.

My recollection is that PVC (not CPVC) it tends to weaken at temperatures over

160 F (70 C). What kind of internal temperatures are you experiencing, and how do
you regulate internal temperatures? Does the influent of water from a supply source
provide sufficient cooling?

Assuming you connect the generator to engine vacuum, what kind of vacuum levels
do you experience in the generator, and how does the water keep from boiling?

Sorry for all the questions, but this stuff is fascinating.

2. Tim | May 29th, 2008 at 12:30 pm

Like I said in the post, PVC is a good material for a simple housing to get you
started, but o nearly as good as metal of course. Long term, heat will affect this
material. One of our first units boiled over, and the PVC warped to an oval shape.
If the bubbler tank is as big as the generator, it will take a lot more time for the unit
to heat up if it is recirculating. Plastic isnt a very good conductor, so it may be
necessary to also use a small transmission type oil cooler or other metal cooler
inline.

3. Glenn | June 7th, 2008 at 5:28 am

Can you post more info on the recirc part of the unit? I am interested in trying this,
but I am not sure how you are recircing the liquid.

Thanks,
Glenn

4. Tim | June 7th, 2008 at 11:38 am

Hey, Glenn
basically, you place your bubbler tank highr than the generator. The line on top of
your generator runs to a point below the water in your bubbler so the gas and water
enter below the water line. Another line runs from the bottom of the bubbler to the
bottom of your generator. This is the return line. The goal is to keep the generator
completely full. As water / gases move up the tube into the bubbler, this forces
water to move down the return line to replace it. The circulation will dissipate heat.
I put up a video on the sidebar which features a bubbler experiment.

5. Josh | June 11th, 2008 at 1:58 am

16
 Hey guys im just starting out with this stuff and id like to know approx. how tall u
need to make the PVC pipe and if I should make the bubbler tank the same size or
larger. thanks

6. Gary Bruner | June 17th, 2008 at 12:39 am

Hey guys I put mine to the test this weekend and Im pretty happy with the
results..for now. I used stainless steel woven mesh for the anode and basically
copied your housing. I drove the exact same distance under the same conditions
(same road as a matter of fact)without the generator I got 26.7 mpg and with it
turned on I got 35.1, I drive a 92 camry station wagon. I dont think my unit
produces near the gas output I have seen in your videos but I am also not having
any heat issues. My goal is over 40 mpg so I will be building a bigger unit and
doing some more research. Your website got me over the hump and I enjoy reading
the Q & A you guys do..keep up the good work and Ill keep you posted on my
results.

Thanks again

How to Make a Wrapped HHO Generator Anode

HHO Information May 13th, 2008

Aron and I have made several styles of HHO hydrogen generators. The easiest one to build
was the wrapped cylindrical model. It is composed of 2 stainless steel 16 gauge plates,

17
rolled into a cylinder. We cut a strip part way on each one, then bend it up to use for a
connector lead. This means we can build a cell with no internal connections, since our
electrical lead extends out of the casing. In this video clip, we show our home made roller,
our finished anodes and a quick test in pre-treated tap water to make sure everything is
working. The water was used before with a different generator, but has no electrolytes or
caustic additives. Adding electrolyte to the solution would increase production of this cell
drastically, but we always test without it first. To see a test of a cell very similar to this,
look at HHO Hydrogen Fuel Cell #4 Demo.

For anyone who wants one of these generator anodes, but doesnt want to build one
themselves, check out our sales box on the right. These anodes will fit inside a 3 PVC
housing, but would require a bubbler tank with recirculating capabilities to avoid
overheating. We have yet to find a design which makes large quantities of HHO without
heating up.

26 Comments
1. Gary Bruner | June 4th, 2008 at 1:04 am

Hey great site! What is the mesh made of that you are putting between your
stainless steel sheetsthanks in advance!

2. Tim | June 4th, 2008 at 11:41 am

Hi Gary,
We are using a high density polyethylene mesh that is made for outdoor use.

3. Gary Bruner | June 4th, 2008 at 11:15 pm

Success..sort of. I wasnt able to get a nice tight role like you guys did so that
may have hurt my gas output. Now on to phase twowhats phase two?

4. Tim | June 5th, 2008 at 4:13 am

Great to hear you have your cell nearly ready. Check to make sure all metal surfaces
have clearance. Phase 2 is to test it in an open topped container full of water in a
well ventilated area with no source of ignition. When you first hook it up, watch for
a sudden large power draw or sparks, which would signify the anodes touching. If
this happens, unhook it and go over it again. Then, on to phase 3 : build your
housing.

5. David | June 6th, 2008 at 12:14 am

Hi! I am new to HHO production. What causes the reaction? I realize you have
electricity in the water, but is it the closeness of the metal (without touching) that is
the goal? How close is too close?
Thanks!

6. Aron | June 6th, 2008 at 3:48 pm

Hi David.
18
 In short the electricity passing through the water separates hydrogen and oxygen
atoms, the closer the plates the easier the electricity can travel from one electrode to
the other. However the amperage the cell will draw will go higher. If you dont plan
on using electrolytes 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch will work great. If you want to use
electrolytes try 3/16 to 1/4 inch. If the gaps are to close your cell will make lots of
gas but it will also boil the water in a short time.

7. JP | June 10th, 2008 at 2:30 am

Gentlemen,
I have seen several different types of anodes,ie: plates, rods or wrapped. What do
you think is the most efficient, putting aside the cost of making the anode? I want to
build a HHO generator for my car and any advise you would be willing to share
would be very helpful.

8. Aron | June 10th, 2008 at 4:38 am

Hello Jp. That is a tough question to answer. If you compare amps to gas volume
then we had the best results with tubes but only if the outside or larger tube was
positive. Other peoples results may differ because of all the variables involved in
size, spacing and even housing materails can change production. Plates and
wrapped electrodes are more space efficient.

9. JP | June 11th, 2008 at 1:25 pm

When it comes the the type of material used for the casing, is one better then the
other? I had been thinking about using a stailess steel tube instead of plexiglass,
Could, with the anodes spaced properly from the inner wall, the metal tube casing
asct as a neutral and help in the production?
thanx again for all your help. Your page is helping alot of people.

10. Steve | June 11th, 2008 at 7:36 pm

Have you tried to cause separation with a sine wave? ie: the Stanley Meyers patent,
the Hydrostar. The benefits would be low current and low temperatures and still
good output?

11. jimmy | June 12th, 2008 at 7:52 pm

I have some stainless steel screen wire. How do you think that would work for
electrodes?
Thanks
Jimmy

12. Bruce & Zack | June 12th, 2008 at 9:09 pm

Hey, me and my friend Zack have been testing different

types of anodes, and have found that the one producing the largest volume of gas
was 3 stainless steel plates (316), spaced 1/4 apart with rubber grommets
seperating them. They are a little over a foot long. They are charged positive
negative positive. The amount of gas produced was impressive but the draw of
19
 amps was starting to heat the water and plates. We never ran it longer than a few
minutes. How would we solve the over heating problem, and the power draw
problem w/o killing our wallets. Also, would wrapping the inside of our container
(3 pvc) with a sheet of stainless steel and running a rod through the center create
less of a power draw and still produce a substantial amount of hho? Is there a
solution to creating a substantial amount without running straight 12v? Any
information would be useful.

13. Dean | June 17th, 2008 at 10:02 am

On the heat issue: Try running the water through a heater core. A heater core is
basically a small radiator found in all cars. You can get one cheap or even free at a
local auto wrecking yard. For a pump just get a cheap garden fountain pump. A Rio
180 worked well for me in the past, but I was using it in a different application.
Higher flow will increase cooling, and providing airflow through the radiator fins
will increase cooling dramatically. My experience comes from watercooling a
computer processor, which puts out around 125watts. Try some tests and let me
know how it goes!

14. Bruce & Zack | June 18th, 2008 at 6:37 pm

Thanks for the reply. Is it possible to make seperate

cells with seperate anodes that combine there gas, this
way we dont have to deal with the heat issue. Because the container endurance is
higher with a lower heat reaction inside. Also so we dont have to use as much
power. The cell we have now makes a large amount of gas, but cant we just have
several seperate containers with
their own anode and current? Thanks ahead of time.

15. Aron | June 24th, 2008 at 10:07 pm

Hello Bruce and Zack.

Running small multiple cells works good if you have the room. I run two cells on a
f150 with only 11 amps total consumption and can get 32 mpg hiway.

16. Todd | June 28th, 2008 at 8:31 pm

Ive made both a single cell and a double cell generator and with both models I
keep blowing 15A fuses. I tried increasing the wire size from 12gauge to 10, but the
fuses blow typically on longer trips >30mi. Do you think that might be heat related
or to much current being drawn during production of gas?

17. Bruce | July 9th, 2008 at 1:31 pm

Thanks to Aron I am getting started. My mechanic friend, Tim, wants to use acrylic
tube with 4 ID diameter. does anyone have any experience with using acrylic tube
for a hydrogen generator?
Another question - we are going to use stainless steel pipes. Is ther a calculation for
the distance between pipes and the amount of water in the tank?

20
 thanks
Bruce

18. Sterling | July 9th, 2008 at 9:50 pm

Hello! I have a question regarding your setup here. Would it be possible to use shim
stock coil (http://www.maudlinproducts.com/1275.xml?cat=1165) instead of
traditional SS sheets and then bending them? This would take a lot of the bending
hassle away because they are easy to bend if you need to, as well as cheaper in
price. And one other thing, does the material of the scuba tank mesh really matter?
Thanks a ton, Im a huge fan of this website!

19. Aron | July 9th, 2008 at 10:18 pm

Hi Sterling. Sure you could use shim stock but is it really cheaper. Check out our
store, the mini is 2 sheets of 20 guage 212 wrapped. Check your local hardware
store for a mesh to cover the gutters on your house most is made of hd poly
ethylene. Look for mesh that is cross woven so the hho can have more gaps to
escape through. Ive never been scuba diving.

20. TinkererPutterer | August 30th, 2008 at 1:52 am

Keep up the good work guys. Ive been soaking up info from a lot of videos.
Putting together everything I have learned so far Ill share this with you: Looks like
we need a flash-back killer so the whole thing doesnt blow up. There was a good
demo of a simple capped PVC pipe filled with Ocean City beach sand (no thing
stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the person in the video) and the HHO passed
through it. It was ignited at one end but never flashed on through the sand. Good.
One problem solved. Next we need to stop any bubbled water from being pushed up
and out along with the gas. I saw a simple condensation catcher (bottle-type) like
those used on commercial air compressors did the trick. Good thats two problems
solved. Next is how to produce maximum HHO output with minimum amperage.
The thing that you are all working on. What will produce the most HHO? A thin
wrap of SS foil with SS washers on a bolt inside? A spiral of wire? Plates arranged
PNPNPN? P-N-P (positive, multiple unconnected plates, negative, multiple
unconnected plates, positive)? I like the idea of multiple small cells but real
research needs to be put into this. It means the difference between getting better gas
mileage and no longer needing gasoline at all. Pick some brains at college
chemistry labs and report your findings. We got to the moon almost 40 years ago we
can find the right brains to figure this thing out. I saw a video that said high
frequency and low amperage produced highest output but it also leached iron out of
the stainless steel and sludged up the cylindrical cells with brown yuck. Not good.
But I cant say with 100% confidence that this video was accurate as I wasnt there.
If there turns out to be no low current solution then yes perhaps the overheating
problem can be cured circulating the water through a radiator with small electric
fan, plus heat sink fins on the stainless steel container. It gets hot under the hood,
maybe move the thing to the trunk with ducted vents to the outside. What about the
water? What works best? Distilled with baking soda? Distilled with drain cleaner (I
dont like that idea). Come on guys, lets do this like a man on a mission. keep
trying hard, weve got a planet to save and some really really rich greedy
civilization-ruining oil goons to put out of a job. Keep me posted, I will do the
21
 same. stepping down off of my soap box, thank you. Now back to my busy ER -
Im volunteering

21. TinkererPutterer | August 30th, 2008 at 1:57 am

Sorry, quick typo to fix: (no thing stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the person
in the video) should read (no special stuff, Ocean City, Maryland, local to the
person in the video). Thanks :o)

22. Dave | September 6th, 2008 at 3:50 am

Hello! I have a 13 plate 304 stainless cell I made, it is 6 x 2 and the plates are .016
mm. I am running approximately 15 to 20 amps. I installed a basic electric fuel
pump and a common trans cooler to keep the cell cool. It works great. The cell is
producing mega gas, however I am concerned that the constant load will shorten my
alternator and battery life. Is there a way to generate high HO, and draw less
current, ideal would be about 3 to 4 amps. Please help.

Thanks, Dave

23. TinkererPutterer | October 7th, 2008 at 12:50 am

Dave, Until we get an answer to your question on lowering your current draw, if
you have a beefy alternator (or switch to one) a high output alternator (160 Amp or
whatever) should handle your 20 Amp load with ease and plenty of juice leftover.
How are your plates arranged - PNPN etc.? Spacing 1/10th inch? Using only
distilled water?

24. Mankind | October 7th, 2008 at 2:10 am

Ive made several types of gens with bubblers. My problem comes when I try to run
a vehicle with the output line connected to the intake. The vehicle performs worse
or uses more gasoline. Is this because of the O2 sensor? What could I be doing
wrong? Any help would be great,Thanks Don..

25. anthiny pippin | October 12th, 2008 at 1:39 pm

hello guys wegsite is great have been learning alot just wanted to know is one grade
of s.s. better then others there is alot of 304 grade here in ohio but as i have been
looking there is not alot of 306.all the sites are saying that it is the best is that true?
thanks in advance anthony

26. TinkererPutterer | October 14th, 2008 at 2:05 am

Mankind: From the what I have read and videos Ive seen it appears the your output
should go to a T and be sent to not only the intake but also the intake manifold.
Check on some of those videos before you take my word for it. Some claimed it
performed better after the MAP sensor rather than in front of it. Increased fuel
consumption does sound like you need an EFIE device (Google EFIE) to adjust the
voltage from the O2 sensor as you suggest. What can you tell us about your most
successful (read that - highest output) bubbler? (Number of plates? Plates vs Spiral?
22
 Water only or water and electrolyte? Etc.) Come on, lets put the hurt on those oil
goons! Thanks.

HHO Generator Demo On Unit #4

HHO Generator Demo April 28th, 2008

A few weeks ago we were testing one of out HHO generators. The video here is from that
test. If you want to see how we made an HHO cell a lot like this, see How to Make an HHO
Fuel Cell Anode.
Heres what we show in this clip:
1. the test fuel cell hanging in pure water, with 2 amps DC running through it and
producing hydrogen and oxygen (two hydrogen for one oxygen, which is the explosive
HHO mixture)
2. the HHO fuel cell in its case and bubbling the hydrogen gas through water, which we
timed and caught in a jar to measure production.
3. the HHO hydrogen generator bubbling into soapy water, so we can catch the bubbles to
light them with a BBQ lighter. This is really loud, like earsplitting. Its hard to believe how
much force there is in just a little of this gas.
4. the hydrogen fuel cell hooked up and running the HHO to a Ford half ton. We used an
older vehicle, just in case something went wrong. Expendable trucks first, please!

2 Comments

1. Josh | June 11th, 2008 at 2:11 am

Hey I have a couple of other questions to ask, first is if u add anything to the water
what and how much? I was also wondering if how close u want to roll the metal
together? Sorry if the questions are dumb i just dont want to blow anything up.
Thanks alot.

2. derek | September 17th, 2008 at 2:19 pm

hey i read bob boyces pdf document thought to be one of the pioneers in this subject
and in preparing the plates he mentioned a conditioning procedure that seemed to
help produce more hho
sand the plate in one direction then perpindicular to make a cross this forms an edge
for the gas to slip of the plate easier then allighn the plates slight magnetic field by
wrapping coils of insulated wire around the plates oriented in the direction they will
be in the generator and run some current through the wires

Hydrogen HHO Safety | Make Sure All Electrical

Connections Are Perfect!
Uncategorized April 25th, 2008

23
Aron and I have started to build our own homemade HHO fuel cells. What we are working
on isnt rocket surgery, folks. These basic fuel cells that everyone on the internet seems to
be churning out arent very complicated. Even so, you can really screw up and cause an
explosion. In fact, we did blow up our second HHO prototype. It was on Arons table in his
house when both end caps and the anodes blew out of the casing. Our best guess is that a
corroded connection arced and lit the hydrogen oxygen gas mixture, resulting in a blast that
Aron says nearly blew his eardrums and the windows in his kitchen. No one was hurt, but
the generator is non functional. We have since improved our design by removing all wires
and soldered connections with a one piece anode made from stainless steel (corrosion
proof).
If you go to look at our video on YouTube, you will see that Smartscarecrow left a
comment pointing out we would have had a real problem if we had used a glass container
instead of plastic. You may know that there are units with glass containers being sold
online. I wonder how one of these units would hold up mounted under the hood of a car,
with vibration and possible road garbage bouncing up.

14 Comments

1. What about a design that keeps H and O2 gases separate until they are injected into
the engine, or just prior?
2. Tim | May 20th, 2008 at 2:05 am

I dont see the need for that. Just dont have poor connections inside an explosive
gas mixture. Our designs now have solid stainless steel with no internal
connections. To separate the gases would double the size and complexity of the
unit, and make it more failure prone as well as harder to install on a vehicle.

3. Bob Cowart | May 28th, 2008 at 8:26 pm

I dont see how your genartor can produce enough HHO to provide an adquate
amount to produce any savings.

4. Tim | May 29th, 2008 at 2:57 am

There are two different camps out there, as I see it. Some people are trying to
replace gasoline with a huge quantity of Hydrogen Oxygen mixture. We are not
trying to do that. You are right, if we were our generators would not produce
enough.
The thing is, we have made some huge gains by producing less. We are trying to get
the right mixture which will enable the gasoline to burn completely and more
efficiently. We are getting the 35% and up fuel economy gains from what we are
doing, we have decided to experiment some more and go over our entire process
again. You can believe our results or not as you will.

5. Michael | June 10th, 2008 at 4:27 pm

is it possible that the canister exploded because there was no venting? From the
video it looked like there was no outlet for the gas while it was being generated. Is
this not the case?

24
 im looking into building one of my own and if the capsul was vented then this
presents a serious problem for me.

6. Tim | June 10th, 2008 at 5:13 pm

Michael:
What?!?
Do you actually think we built a sealed container and then wondered why it
exploded?!@!@ I dont understand your thought process on this one.
If the container was sealed, how would we be testing it for production, with an x ray
machine or with our x ray vision? Were we using teleportation to get the gas to the
engine?
Lets get serious here.

7. Alex | June 13th, 2008 at 2:14 am

First I want to thank you for your great site!

Im Hours new on this, but this is my common sence

I like to give my input for Michael. I believe that the explosion was caused by one
of the electrodes getting too hot or creating corrosion with the wire, that might have
caused an spark inside the chamber and that for the explosion with the Hydrogen
been generated.

8. Homan Huang | June 15th, 2008 at 10:07 pm

Mine is exploded too because the wire overheat on the top cap.

9. Bob | June 24th, 2008 at 6:19 am

Thanks for the great site. Have you experimented with retarding the ignition timing
to improve your efficiency results? Since H2 combusts 40 times faster than gas
(virtually instantaneously) there may be less, or possibly no, need to advance the
timing. In fact, by advancing the timing (as all gas engines are tuned to do) arent
you are actually creating counter-product work against the crankshaft when the H2
ignites several degrees before TDC (top dead center). I know that pure H2 engines
are tuned to fire at virtually TDC. I havent built an HHO booster yet but Im
planning to. What I havent heard anyone anywhere comment on yet is whether it
makes sense to retard the timing at or close to TDC when using an HHO booster.

10. Aaron | July 6th, 2008 at 10:36 pm

How are you able to keep the PVC from getting to hot and changing shape after
long term running in a car. Many of the tests i watched showed that the bubbler
could not sufficiently cool the apparatus. I am about to try to build my first HHO
generator and this seems to be one of the problems that many have run into. Why?
And What to Do?

11. Aron | July 9th, 2008 at 9:55 pm

25
 Hi Aaron. From our experience a generator that draws 10 amps at 12v needs at least
four litres of water. This has been enough area to disperse the heat. Most of our tests
have had the generator mounted behind the front bumper but one was in the engine
bay and it has run for three months under vacuum successfully. Your climate could
however be to warm to cool the plastic enough. Try it, pvc is cheap.

12. Joshua | July 10th, 2008 at 7:45 pm

I did the same thing last night haha I tried to light the torch end of my tube, and
KABOOOM, my left ear still rings when I talk but my right one has regained its
hearing abilities thank goodness Time for round two!!!

13. shomas | September 12th, 2008 at 9:46 pm

any thoughts on using less electrolyte to lessen the current and reduce the excess
heat.

14. Dan | October 11th, 2008 at 2:00 am

The whole idea behind this contraption is to create HHO gas right? So, how do you
know youre creating HHO gas and not just water vapor? I mean, separating the H2
and O2 gas with cathod/anode is easy, but I assume that creating HHO gas instead
of just water vapor has to be a little more difficult.

Learn to Make Your Own HHO Fuel Cell

Uncategorized April 20th, 2008

26
 When Aron and I first started talking about hydrogen
and uses for it, it was 1996. It was a little beyond both
of us at the time. We didnt have the resources we do
now.

Lately, it seems like hydrogen information is coming

out of the woodwork. We started trying to make our
own hydrogen generators in the last while, since it
isnt really that complex. And we arent alone; many
others are busy building their own HHO.

A lot of people want to find out more about

homemade hydrogen generators. Not everyone will
actually build one. Many of you probably just find it
an interesting idea, and others will decide actually
building one will be more work than they want to do
themselves.

We can help out there, too. We will be reviewing the products of others, as well as showing
you how we made our HHOs. We will give you links to materials ans even to completed
units. Check back here later, or subscribe for email HHO hydrogen article updates.

47 Comments
1. Tom Howe | May 12th, 2008 at 6:59 am

Very cool

2. Tom Howe | May 12th, 2008 at 7:00 am

how easy is all that

3. michael Carter | May 13th, 2008 at 11:57 pm

I am glad you showed that accidents do happen when putting these together, people
are not realizing how dangerous these can be and it can be quite dangerous.
So were you able to find out and did changing the metal to stainless steal make a
difference?

4. Tim | May 14th, 2008 at 3:37 am

Since we removed internal connections and use solid stainless steel for our entire
one piece anode / lead, we havent had any trouble. Unless the positive and negative
somehow touch, there wont be any problems with ignition. We test the anodes in
an open topped large container to make sure we have everything safe.

5. Audie Gates | May 19th, 2008 at 12:42 am

I like your wrapped double electrode, about how long do you think the spacers
between will last & how do they stand up to corrosion? what kind of encasement
are you housing this in? thank you

27
6. Tim | May 20th, 2008 at 1:32 am

The spacer material is a hard plastic mesh about a 16th of an inch thick, made for
longterm outdoor use . I feel confident that it will last a long time. After repeated
testing we have not had any troubles with it, and a few of our tests involved
purposely overheating the unit to see what would happen. We dont use caustic,
only pure tap water so I have no idea what would happen with other fluids.
Our housings have usually been made from PVC pipe, since it is easy to work with.
These anodes will heat up if used at maximum draw (10 amps), so a PVC housing
will only work if you have a small transmission cooler or a bubbler tank with more
water to disperse heat.

7. dart | May 20th, 2008 at 5:53 am

Awesome design guys!!!

What is the temp of the water solution at 10 amps ?

Have you tested this with a neutral plate ?

Have you tested this using a PWM ?

8. Tim | May 20th, 2008 at 12:32 pm

The water can get pretty hot if you dont use a bubbler tank to recirculate, or if you
dont have enough volume.
We tested with a neutral plate, it didnt seem to help at all.
Never used a PWM yet, but its on the to do list.

9. Pete | May 21st, 2008 at 4:43 pm

Do you have anyone using this on a diesel motor? I have a 2004 Chevy Duramax
6.6 Liter motor. And would like to find out how well it works on these motors.
Also what would be the best thing to build the container out of for this generator?
Pete

10. Gene Jeffco | May 29th, 2008 at 6:29 pm

I am interested in your generator, but have a question. What is the mesh material
made of?

11. Tim | May 29th, 2008 at 8:07 pm

Thanks for stopping by, Gene.

The mesh is made from durable polyethylene plastic intended for year round
outdoor use.

12. Jeremie | May 31st, 2008 at 5:48 pm

28
 I was wondering if these could be hooked up in a series for a larger production of
hydrogen

13. Tim | May 31st, 2008 at 11:28 pm

Hi, Jeremie.
It would be possible to hook these in series or more than one in a housing. You just
have to be careful of your connections. One way to keep wired connections safe
would be to keep the cells upside down, so that wires etc would always be under
water. If you can weld and have access to a tig or other appropriate welding
machine, you could use stainless to weld up your units. Make sure that the rod or
wire you use is compatible with the stainless you are working on. For instance, 309
rod is slightly magnetic, and should not be used with 304, 308 or 316 series
stainless. Mixing will cause more corrosion in the weld or join area and may cause
you problems.

14. brac | June 4th, 2008 at 7:03 pm

Great work your doing, thank for posting. Could you explain what the bubbler is,
how its made, and how it works.

As a side note if people are looking for the plastic mesh I got mine as a tank sleve
from a dive shop.

15. Tim | June 5th, 2008 at 4:17 am

Hey, Brac
The next post we will be putting out will discuss bubblers and how to use one.
Check back in a couple days.

16. Wooly | June 7th, 2008 at 2:18 am

Top stuff. My question is, What determins the amps?

17. Tim | June 7th, 2008 at 2:30 am

Well, Wooly, the more electrode you have exposed to the water, the more power it
can draw. This is true up to the maximum of your power supply. Of course, too
much power flow can result in a short circuit and arcing if taken to extremes.
It is possible to regulate your amps using a resistor, or rheostat of some sort, or a
multi setting switch like the one controlling a heater fan.

18. mike | June 7th, 2008 at 3:50 pm

wow great explanations i hope to learn more

19. brac | June 8th, 2008 at 9:40 pm

Tim,
Thanks I look foward to the bubbler info. My next question is where you are
connecting these to the engine, my thought was either just feed it into the air intake
29
 or into a vacuum line. Have you tried both?
Thanks again for posting!!

20. Josh | June 9th, 2008 at 4:25 pm

i have a slight question. what if you were able to figure a way to run your car
completely on HHO? if im not mistaken HHO is Combustible if my assumptions
are correct i should have a completely HHO fueled Vehicle in a matter of days.

21. Aron | June 9th, 2008 at 7:06 pm

Hi Josh. This has been done before so Im sure it can be done again, you might
want to purchase bullit proof vests, cars and hire security. Before a hitman sent by
and oil company takes you out let us know how your project is progressing.

22. Aron | June 10th, 2008 at 12:00 am

Hello Brac. We have connected our generators to both the air intake between the air
filter and throttle body and into a vacuum line. They both work but conecting to the
vacuum line will work better especially for low rpm crusing. We will post videos
about bubbles and condensation traps soon.

23. Steve | June 10th, 2008 at 2:41 am

We have built a small unit. It produces a small amount of bubbles. We heard that
you can put something on to cause it to draw more amps and thus make more hho.
for example, one of the comments said I changed it from 2 amps to 20 amps.
How?

24. Aron | June 10th, 2008 at 4:02 am

Hi Steve. You are thinking of electrolytes. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in four
liters of distilled water. Drain your generator and add the new water. Start it up and
after about 15 minutes your generator will draw more amps and make more hho.
Adding more baking soda will increase production even further but will reduce the
life expectency of the electrodes.

25. joe d | June 10th, 2008 at 5:32 pm

I dont know how much it would take to ingnite the HHO,but care should be
exercised with mass air flow injected vehicles.The mass air sometimes uses a hot
wire in the intake to sense airflow.These have ignited ether and throttlebody cleaner
when sprayed into the intake.Also any backfire into the intake might be bad with
alot of cars now have plastic intakes.I have seen the end of a intake blown off the
truck when it back fired with fuel in the intake.Have fun experimenting but be
careful.

26. Aron | June 10th, 2008 at 6:18 pm

30
 Very good point Joe D. Everybody should be aware of that ignition source. One of
our test trucks does have mass air so we draw the hho from the cell through a
vacuum line.

27. Steve | June 13th, 2008 at 3:47 pm

Im interested in knowing if anyone has tried duplicating the efforts of Stan

Meyers hydrogen generator that used pulsed high voltage, but very low amp
power? I have many of his design documents, but Im not smart enough in
electronics to understand the electrical part. By using high voltage, low amps, his
generator didnt produce heat!

28. Geno from Reno | June 14th, 2008 at 12:34 pm

These generators fasinate me. I want to put one my Dodge Hemi, but am learning I
have to make some modifications. Thanks for the info.

29. Jayson from phoenix | June 15th, 2008 at 1:57 am

I LOVE THIS STUFF. All these years as a mechanic and knowing the concept I
never knew it was so easily applied, safe, and inexpensive untill just recently. I AM
ORDERING MATERIALS NOW!!!!!

30. Darin | June 24th, 2008 at 1:10 am

Does anyone know if you can run any gas burning engine completely off HHO by
use of HHO stored in a propane tank in the trunk? If possible; on average how
many miles per liter would be produced on a car with an epa rating of about 20
miles per gallon?

31. IZZY | June 25th, 2008 at 5:02 pm

GREAT INFORMATION OUT THERE FOR US TO LEARN OFF OF BUT I

JUST CANT SEEM TO GET THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF ELECTRICAL
WIRE MINE GET;S TO HOT AFTER 15 MINUTES OF USE. ANY IDEAS
WHAT I AM DOING WRONG

32. brac | June 28th, 2008 at 5:04 am

Darin, I think the problem would be how to pressurize it to get it in the tank, oh and
the danger..

33. Walt | June 28th, 2008 at 11:50 pm

Hi Izzy;

The heating you are experiencing is caused by the amount of current passing
through your cell. The current passing through the cell is controlled by four main
factors:
1. The surface area of the stainless steel anodes.
2. The conductivity of the fluid in the cell
31
 3. The spacing of the anodes.
4. The voltage applied to the cell.

If you are using 18 or 16 guage wire to supply power to your cell, try changing to
12 or 10 guage wire. Changing to the heavier (the smaller the number the heavier
the wire)guage wire, should cure the problem.

If the above doesnt cure the problem, try rinsing the cell out and filling it with
plain distilled water.

You may have to reduce the voltage applied to the cell.

34. Don | July 5th, 2008 at 6:03 pm

Good site thanks

I like this stuff it can be fun and also very dangerous use extream care when playing
with hho. I have one i made with s/s wall switch plates i have one neg and a nuterl
and a pos. +n-n+n-n+n- 14 plates in all produces very well usning distalled water
and baking soda the amount of baking soda u put in will determine the amps. I have
my unit going through a bubbler then into the air intake as close to the plemptom as
posable away from all the scencers. I like the idea of using a multi setting switch
like the one controlling a heater fan.

Thanks Tim

35. Don | July 5th, 2008 at 6:05 pm

Oh ya i realy like the back ground of the Canadian flag way to go.

36. Bruce | July 9th, 2008 at 4:20 pm

I just talked to an engineer who said that the closer the pipes are the more Amps the
generator will try to use so there must be a way to control it or a formula for the
optimal configuration. Any suggestions
Thanks
Bruce

37. Bruce | July 9th, 2008 at 4:28 pm

My first comment must not have gone. I wanted to thank Aron for getting me
started. I have a mechanical engineer that is going to work with me on this. We are
going to use stainless steel pipes approximately 14-18 inches long. he is suggesting
that we use acrylic pipe for our generator chanber. does anyone have any experience
or comments on that idea.

2nd question was: Does anyone have a formula or idea of how close the + and -
pipes should be placed to get the best results?

Thanks
Bruce
32
38. Nessa | July 15th, 2008 at 6:38 pm

we have built a generator using s/s wall plates we have 6 alternating + and - we
have learned by trial and ALOT of error . we have to use #8 wire and a continous
power cylinoid we have a switch run into cab so it does not run all the time .we
are haveing a problem with our bubbler we only have one hose from generator
and one to the intake some input would be great

39. Allen | July 21st, 2008 at 2:15 pm

Ive noticed that many questions are related to tweeking the system that was built. It
leads me to wonder if there is any definitive instructions to build these HHO
systems? Secondly, do any of these manuals offered on the internet give you
everything you need to efficiently and safely build and install one of these systems?

40. Steve Duvall | July 30th, 2008 at 7:24 pm

Ok ive done a lot of research, im a certified master mechanic in gas and diesel and
am a hydraulics specialist

Ive seen pressurizing, pulse width modulation and other methods! Has any one
experimented with keeping the system under vaccum, and an oxygen scrubber to
isolate the oxygen to later introduce the oxygen before combustion!

I would assume that if you could heat the water with the exhaust then pass the water
through an electrical current then under a vacuum accumulate the hydrogen it could
be stored in small quantities safly and repleneished as it is being used or a method
somwhat similar!

41. Steve Duvall | July 31st, 2008 at 6:26 pm

This is for Izzy

quote# IZZY | June 25th, 2008 at 5:02 pm

GREAT INFORMATION OUT THERE FOR US TO LEARN OFF OF BUT I

JUST CANT SEEM TO GET THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF ELECTRICAL
WIRE MINE GET;S TO HOT AFTER 15 MINUTES OF USE. ANY IDEAS
WHAT I AM DOING WRONG

The Amperage is what is causing the heatup of your wires, it is possible that you
could have a very efficient system but you just need some fine tunning, one way to
control the amperage heatup is to use a pwm pulse width modulator, If you could
describe for us your setup, # of plates and dimensions style, conical or plates etc!
voltage amperage wire gauge, then your test results, voltage and amperage applied
temperature of your circuit etc we could further analize and possibly help with a
solution!

42. Johann Kristinsson | August 14th, 2008 at 3:31 am

33
 Hi Steve.
Sorry to hear that your wires are heating.
You are probably american and the american rules, although good, are not strikt
enouugh for europe.
Here we secure 1.5 quadrat mm single core copper with 10 amp at 240 volt
50 hz ac.
Dc produces more heat because its constant, not dead or reduced half the time(sinus
wave).
I recomend that you use wider multicore wires and find out what the regulations say
about 12 volt ameperage and wires and protection.
Then you must put in security, bimetal or something.
Remember that fuses are to protect the wires, not the application.
The application is suposed to have its own protection, the fuse is to protect the
network.
By the way, what q are you using and what is your amperage use, a simple vom
meter will answer that?
Wish you luck.
Johann.

43. pete | September 4th, 2008 at 3:01 am

safety is my main concern and doubling mileage i called a radio show called the
auto lab on 570am in nyc they had no comment but felt it was not safe to install
what are the best materials to make a hho generator and what flame devices and
other items can be installed for safety i read that connecting to the fuel pump ckt is
better because gas and hho would be on at the same time instead of the external
relay p.s what circuit devices need to be installed to achieve the highest gas mileage
result thanks very much pete appreciate the help.

44. Rasplanet | September 11th, 2008 at 12:44 am

This comment is for Pete. Your idea might not work because most electric fuel
pumps have an internal pressure switch that cuts off the gas when enough pressure
is built up. However, the power to the pump is still on. Unless someone proves me
wrong, I would connect to the alternator(AC power) which will give you all the
power you need and will let your unit run cooler. Always use a multimeter when in
doubt about voltage, amps, etc.
And to everyone: Please use extreme caution when experimenting with hydrogen
and electricity.
This cannot be stressed enough. I see that Tim and Aron
are trying to keep everyone safe. Thanks guys. I love what you are doing and wish
everyone the best. If we all
work together through information sharing, maybe we can
stop depending on petroleum.

45. Eddie | September 15th, 2008 at 7:10 am

To follow up on my request for a current regulator I must admit that after delving
through the correspondence on this site I am really glad that I found it. Since a
friend emailed me about the HHO that I suspected was a joke 4 months ago I really
got hooked and havent stopped experimenting since. I tried a variety of ideas. My
34
 conclusion so far is that the HHO production is proportional to the power supplied
to it.
I am still searching for the Holy Grail HHO generator.
My aim is to determine for best efficient simple setup that limits amperage and heat
buildup.
You guys are going through the same experience I am having, and hope that we
shall help each other to come up with a most desirable and satisfying conclusion.

46. dougiefresh27 | September 19th, 2008 at 11:42 pm

My biggest question is how do you compete with the cars computer. How does the
car get the information to put less gas in each cylinder? That is the only way that the
car will use less gas. Please help!

47. johnmitchell | October 14th, 2008 at 1:00 am

i have a number of questions, my truck has a mass air meter, wouldnt it be a good
idea to place my hho vaccum line before it? so the computer can read the difference
in the air, and lean out the engine? or this wont work?
ok, i also read on the many threads ive gone thru, that to help decrese temp in the
cell, add a neutral plate or tube to use any extra current flowing thru the solution
would lessen the temp. is this true?
next, the voltage, i also read that decreasing the voltage to the cell lowers temps too.
i have a friend of mine, an electrician, says he dropped his down to 4 volts, and
keeping his amps, hes getting same results of hydrogen at lower temps, is he pulling
my leg?
i have a bunch more questions, but ill stop here.

1. Daniel Eshkol | May 27th, 2008 at 10:02 am

good job guys,

I appreciate your willingness to support the environment with HHO DIY

technology.

Daniel Eshkol

India / Asia.

2. mike dillard | May 27th, 2008 at 10:04 pm

what do you pretreat the water with and at what ratio.

also, what do you use as an elctrolyte

3. Tim | May 28th, 2008 at 3:17 am

Hey Mike,
We usually use conditioned tap water, which means water that has had an HHO cell
running in it for at least an hour. THen you let it sit, and all the minerals etc will
drop to the bottom.
We sometimes use 1 tsp of baking soda per 4 litres as an electrolyte.
35
4. dewey | May 28th, 2008 at 3:30 am

What are the advantages of using pre-treated water?

5. basoeto | June 1st, 2008 at 12:23 am

Guys

can we make hydrogen generator with 5 ampere or under 10 ampere current for it ?

Basoeto

Indonesia /Asia

6. Tim | June 1st, 2008 at 3:39 am

Hi Basoeto,
we have been using trial and error to get different results in that area. It is a function
of how much positive and negative electrode is in the water, as well as the amount
of gap between them. The smaller the gap, the more electricity can get through the
water. The more surface area, the more amps used. Electrolyte solutions will allow
more amps through. A resistor can be put in line to constrict the current to a specific
level, or a switch such as that used for a car heater fan to get preset amp levels.

7. Daedalus | June 1st, 2008 at 1:41 pm

Two Questions:

1) Is there a difference in the volume of gass production between a SS#316 vs. a

SS#304 plate?

2) I noticed that the LxWxH of most of the SS Plates that people are using seem to
be pretty standard. Is there a reason behind this measurement or can the SS Plates
(Annodes / Cathodes) be of different sizes?

I am also curious if the different size plates will add to a greater production of
Browns Gass?

Thanks,

8. Aron | June 1st, 2008 at 4:47 pm

Thanks for visiting our site.

The gas production between 304 and 316 will not differ. 316 has extra hardener for
extreme corrosive conditions such as acids.

You can make your electrode plates any size you want, however the bigger you
make your cell the more amperage it will draw but you will make more gas.

36
 You dont need large volumes of hho to make a substantial increase in mileage if
thats what you are looking for. We have tested several cells on our own vehicles
with very good success.

9. Aron | June 2nd, 2008 at 2:49 pm

Hello Dewey.

The advantages of using treated or conditioned water is that your cell will start
producing at a good rate immediately providing the electrodes are also conditioned.
The second advantage is that your generator can run longer without having to flush
out the sediment that can build up quite fast and impair the production of hho.

10. ERWIN | June 4th, 2008 at 10:11 pm

I`m worries, because you know the Hydrogen when Burn will give enrgy around
3000 Deg Celcius, so if you instal the Hydrogen Generator in You car will problem
with your Engine Block, bacause you engine block designed not for 3000 Deg
Celcius, so this is will impact to Engine Block Life time.

11. Aron | June 5th, 2008 at 4:38 pm

Hi Erwin. We wonder what the long term effects are as well. We have not put a egt
gauge on a test vehicle yet, however the f150 truck does run a little cooler with a
hho generator on it. The truck did not run very well after having a generator on it
for a while because the spark plugs were fouling up from old carbon deposits
coming out of the engine. It does run good again after about 600km. This truck has
320000kms on it and has a rough life so any signs of excess heat or detonation
should be esay to see as the engine wont tolerate much abuse. The engine is a 5.0l
and has got up to 33mph without overdrive.

12. Jason | June 6th, 2008 at 8:14 am

I recently built my own HHO I used 16 of 3 pcv before I even read your site. I
thought that its the most pratical setup. My anode is 3 plates of SS 2.5x10 2mm
apart -+- charged. I am using connectors and noticed after 10 minutes of use they
looked horrible. I was wondering if you would sell your anodes with two feet of
wire already soldered on. I also added way to much electrolyte to my first batch, my
set up with tap water produced 6 amps and then with all the crap I added to the
distilled water it jump to 75amps. I was hooking a 200 amp battery charger to it. I
ended up diluting it but it still drawed 25amps at start up. I think Ill use the 1tsp to
a gallon of water that you guys recommend.

13. Allan | June 6th, 2008 at 8:14 am

Hey guys,

I build a simple HHO generator and I got a good output I tested it already with my
nissan sentra 1.6L 93model, my exhaus emit drops of water. My only problem is
the water inside my HHO generator getting too hot, do I need to add cooling device

37
 or have something to adjust in my generator? I used spiral stainless wire with 13
turns .5 inch gap., distilled water with 1 teaspoon of baking soda.

thanks,
Allan / Manila, Philippines

14. kevhead | June 7th, 2008 at 3:19 pm

how about using a 12v marine livewell pump, pull water off the unit from one side ,
run it through a radiator and back in the other side to cool? It would increase the
volume of water ,take longer to heat. The radiator cap is also preset to releive
pressure if it gets too great and are set up for a reserve tank to draw more in when
needed, Anyone try anything like this yet??

15. Tim | June 8th, 2008 at 3:07 pm

That might work, Kevhead. Seems pretty complicated, will use a lot of electricity
and take up a lot of room. We havent tried anything like that because we are
concentrating on making small compact units that draw low amps.

16. kenny | June 8th, 2008 at 7:34 pm

I am a little confused, I see the metal being rolled to make the hho generator, but
did not understand the type of material between the plates,

Can yuou explain what type of material that is

17. Aron | June 9th, 2008 at 11:48 pm

Hi kenny. The poly mesh we use is made from the same thing pop bottles are made
from. You can find it in a garden center, its used for keeping leaves out of your
house gutters. Wrapping the mesh between the plates keeps them from touching
when you are wrapping the metal. The mesh doesnt restrict the gas from comming
out of the cell because it is cross woven and always has spaces between it and the
electrode plates for the gas to escape.

18. john | June 21st, 2008 at 7:41 pm

Ive just bought the Water Car Pro book, and it was not as good and easy to
follow as the makers, hwo also sell it, claimed

19. john | June 21st, 2008 at 7:42 pm

-so my point; glad your doin this site. looking forwards to see more info

20. Walter | June 26th, 2008 at 10:36 pm

Found this site googling for hydrogen plans

Am very interested in attempting a generator.
Question: is there more energy liberated from the water than the amount of

38
 electrical energy put into the system?
Keep up the good work
Walter

21. Aron | June 27th, 2008 at 3:09 am

Hi Walter. Some hho generators create enough HHO to achieve overunity. We have
had the best results with small generators that only draw three to seven amps.

22. Robert | July 6th, 2008 at 9:45 am

I found this company that manufactures stainless steel containers. I will be using
some of your design, but only wonder if this is good idea. I would think that the cap
should be made of non conductive material.

http://www.eaglestainless.com/products/cus_modif/cust_mod_list.html

Any input on this would be appreciated.

23. Aron | July 9th, 2008 at 4:47 am

Hi Robert. Yes a stainless steel container will work with the wrapped electrodes. It
would be best if the housing is not grounded as it can act like a neutral or cathode
and change your generator function. This applies to other generators as well,
something to consider in the future.

24. Sun | July 21st, 2008 at 9:12 pm

Is the amount of Hydrogen produced a direct function of the amount of Amps

drawn? Or can you get the same amount of Hydrogen w/ less Amps thru the use of
an efficient design?

Ive ran Propane in the past and I know that I need approximately a 45 hp increase
at the rear wheels (as measured on a dyno) to get any meaningful fuel economy
improvements because of the weight of my F250. Im planning on replacing the
Propane w/ Hydrogen as they seem to function in a similiar manner once inside the
combustion chamber. How much Hydrogen do I need to achieve that hp increase?
Would I measure it in Amps or just measure the volume of Hydrogen gas that is put
off?

Has any one thought of a good way to regulate the amount of Hydrogen gas going
into the motor? Maybe TPS or boost sensitive? Maybe have two generators w/ one
turned on at light throttle settings and w/ both turned on at heavy throttle settings?

Does anyone sell simple completed generators at a reasonable price?

Thanks for your input.

25. Richard (the san-man) | August 3rd, 2008 at 3:47 pm

39
 Aron on June 2nd, 2008 at 2:49 pm you told Dewey:

The advantages of using treated or conditioned water is that your cell will start
producing at a good rate immediately, providing the electrodes are also conditioned.

My question is this, How do I condition the Electrodes? In my generator, Im

using 3/32 stranded SS wire wrapped around a 2.5 by 2.5 Plexaglass X shape that
is 10 inches long. The wraps are 1/2 inch apart and will be in a 5 Gal bucket. If all
goes well, I plan on adding 2 more generators in this bucket later.

Thanks for all your help

26. Aron | August 7th, 2008 at 4:20 am

Hi Richard.

Conditioning your electrodes is done by using your generator. Most stainless steel
has a polished finish which does not make very much hho at first. The longer you
use your generator the better it should produce and can reach maximum in about ten
hours depending on the quallity and finish of the stainless.

The wire electrodes we have tried work well although we did not use them for
extended period will last long enough to save more in gasoline than the cost to
replace them.

27. Farmer Bobb | August 30th, 2008 at 4:51 am

Hey Guys, just fired up my first units. They are 2 Hotsabi Boosters running at 5
amps making good gas. The wife thinks Im crazy but she coming around. Tried
your style of generator with 4X12 wire ss mesh scrap I had, the thing works at 4
amps in good old tap water, lots of surface area. Thanks for the great info

28. Dale | September 13th, 2008 at 1:29 pm

quick question: ON some sites, they mention vacuum from the engine. I see no
mention of using any kind of vacuum assist on your site. (other than the intake of
course). Is vacuum required?

29. Gary | October 7th, 2008 at 7:28 am

How well will these work on a turbocharged engine? I am currently running 15 psi
and wouldnt mind better gas mileage.

Also, would you want to install before the turbo inlet or in the intercooler/piping?

30. Mike | October 11th, 2008 at 12:27 am

I have been doing a lot of research and development for about six months. I
purchased the Gas4Free and was very dissapointed. They offered no support and the
100% money back if not satified was not honored, they would not even respond!

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 The mailing adress came back as being ficticious. Needless to say, my wife was not
impressed with my initial attempts. I have since been reading everything I can and
have gradually come up with a design I am very please with. It actually produces an
average of 1.5 liters a minute at about 15 amps. You can pull less amps and make
less HHO, but the main thing is it does not overheat. Good gas production and
overheating cam be an issue which can be resolved. After spending a couple of
thousand dollars and a lot of time, I am slowly redeeming myself to my wife. Read
as much as you can and share with others. There is enough good free information
that you do not need to pay for it. I would be more than happy to share some of the
techniques which others have shared with me which lowers the amperage, reduces
the heat and increase HHO production. I am far from an expert but I have been
succesful in building several designs that work and have had none of the issues
which are so entertaining on Youtube.

31. Richard (the san-man) | October 13th, 2008 at 10:31 am

It has been brought to my atention that we need some kind of, constant resistance,
to regulate the Amprage going to the generator. Does anyone know where I can find
a 10 Amp - 120 Ohm or a 5 Amp - 240 Ohm resistor?

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