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ORIONS BELT.
ow
oxb te,
e an ampsi rgest a
c
esid a c e la fri
g b lovi th in A
m pin at Ka one of tions
Ca lake e to pula
s
clo po po
hip
Kangwara soon spies a herd of elephants
watering upstream. We paddle against
the current until the folds of their metallic
gray skin are just yards away. There is
nothing more likely to restore a childlike
m sense of smallness than seeing a herd of
fro ks
d awn e ban elephants from a canoe, your body measuring
t th
ff a on only 2 or 3 feet tall from the water line, while
i n g o amp bezi
t c
Cas wild e Zam gazing up into a forest of legs. Among the
a f th
o elephants are juveniles spurting water over
each other and a matriarch, perhaps 50 years
old, ponderously scratching her backside
against the bark of an acacia tree.
In the decades since this herds matriarch
was born, the number of elephants in Africa
For all the off-road capabilities of our SUV, has plummeted by an astonishing two-thirds.
some Zambian bush highways cannot be Most recently, a poaching epidemic has
reached in a 4x4. These are the tributaries annihilated elephant populations across the
and sandy lagoons of the Lower Zambezi continent. The Lower Zambezi population is
National Park thoroughfares for hippos, healthy, but not far away, poachers have
crocodiles and elephants, and, at certain targeted elephants by lacing waterholes with
times of the year, Anthony Elton and cyanide, a poison that will shut down a
Tavengwa Kangwara. heart the size of a car engine.
Elton and Kangwara pioneered canoe The current takes us out of sight and the
expeditions on the Zambezi three decades sound of faraway pachyderm trumpeting
ago and now lead clients on multinight carries downstream. At moments like this,
canoe journeys through the backwaters, safari feels like an experience more precious
sneaking past hippo pods by day, camping and profound than seeing millennia-old
on uninhabited river islands by night. And pyramids, or wandering around museums
these trips are not without incident. filled with centuries-old artifacts.
On one outing long ago, Elton awoke For the big beasts of the Zambian
one morning looking up at the underside wilderness are masterpieces of evolution
of an elephant. On another, he pretended hundreds of millions of years in the making.
to be asleep as a pride of lions peed on him, They are Mother Natures Mona Lisa, its
one after the other, to mark their territory. Michelangelos David, Taj Mahal and Angkor
Some people in Zambia think a canoe safari Wat but living, breathing, roaming the
is dangerous, says Kangwara, stocking the bush highways of Africa and scratching
boats with tents and supplies. But I have their backsides on acacia trees.
been paddling here for 21 years. I still have
all my arms and legs.
We drift with the current on its slow
procession to the Indian Ocean, listening
to the slosh of the paddles and the calls of
fish eagles from the treetops. The Zambezi
changes character with passing each mile.
At first its wide and serene, with woods of
acacia and winter thorn forming the boundary
between water and sky. Then it turns into a
muddle of channels with large crocodiles
basking on the sandbanks, and hippo pods
blocking the way, bearing their tusks.
e n
ors n a
i ver Hamp o bezi
R
r a ng c Zam
e t ove anoei g the
s c n
Sun afaris d alo
S slan
i
1
Your first step is
organizing a suitably
2
Once youre fully
acquainted with your
3
When you return from
your canoeing trip,
4
One hours drive
from Nsefu Camp in
5
Not far from Kalovia,
Chikoko Camp is an
6
Getting to Luangwa
River Camp involves
equipped vehicle for vehicle, set out from follow the same road a remote tract of bush excellent base for the some fairly advanced
a road trip across the Zambian capital, back to Lusaka. It takes outside the South walking safaris for map reading. However,
Zambia. A number Lusaka. It takes roughly roughly nine hours Luangwa National Park, which Zambia and its the perfect place
of companies rent three hours to drive to drive northeast to Kalovia is a community- South Luangwa to spend your final
4x4s; one of the most south to the Zambezi South Luangwa run campsite for National Park are night in the park, with
comprehensive is Breezers camp near National Parks Milyoti self-drivers. Facilities renowned. Its handsome villas,
Safari Drive. Its heavily the town of Chirundu, Gate (park fees $25 per include a campfire- accessible only by knowledgeable guides
customized Land where canoe trips person per day, $30 heated bush shower foot. Guests park their and a lawn frequented
Rover Defenders and depart. Canoeing the per person per day for and toilet. Close to the vehicles, cross the by mischievous
Toyota Land Cruisers Zambezi requires no self-drives). Nsefu camp is the Changwa Luangwa by canoe, monkeys (from $460
come with a fridge- previous experience, Camp is the oldest Channel, home to one and take a 10-minute per person, including
freezer, gas cooker, though you need to safari lodge in Zambia; of the largest hippo stroll; porters carry meals, drinks and
satellite phone, be reasonably fit. River its close to the gate, in populations in Africa; luggage and supplies. game drives; robin
navigation system Horse Safaris is among one of the most its reached from the Accommodations are popesafaris.net).
and roof tents. The the operators running wildlife-dense parts of camp via a bumpy 45- stilt houses that are
tour operator trips from March to the park, with a huddle minute drive (camping rebuilt from scratch
organizes custom December. The of circular cabins set from about $70; every year using
itineraries that allow company offers two- by a bend in the campzambia.com). bamboo and thatch.
guests to choose the to five-night itineraries, Luangwa River. Be sure Visitors take game
balance of lodges paddling in canoes by to spend some time in walks with a guide
and rooftop camping. day and camping in the well-concealed and an armed ranger
A 13-night itinerary the wild at night. Rates hide overlooking a (from $570 per person,
based on the locations include three generous small watering hole including meals, drinks
6 1 in this article costs meals each day, use of (from $590 per person, and guided walks;
3 from about $6,700 camping equipment, including meals, drinks remoteafrica.com).
ZAMBIA GETTING THERE & AROUND per person transfers back and game drives;
5 4
2 MALAWI (safaridrive.com). upstream and local robinpopesafaris.net).
FLIGHTS While no direct flights to Zambia are available from North America, a good guides experienced
option is South African Airways, which offers daily flights to Johannesburg; in dodging hippo
from there, its about a two-hour flight to Zambias main international airport, pods (two-night
in Lusaka. Other airlines flying from the U.S. to Lusaka include Emirates and Zambezi canoe trail
Ethiopian Airlines. An increasing number of international airlines also fly to from about $490;
the airport at Livingstone (for Victoria Falls), and some fly to Mfuwe (for riverhorsesafaris.com). WHEN TO GO
Map Key South Luangwa National Park) and Ndola. Zambias peak wildlife viewing
1 Chipata season runs from May to October,
2 Chirundu coinciding with the dry weather.
3 Lilongwe TOURIST VISA A tourist visa, generally issued upon arrival, is required ($50 for single entry). Be aware that many lodges are
4 Lower Zambezi closed for the rest of the year,
National Park and some bush tracks
5 Lusaka DRIVING If you plan to do the driving yourself, an International Driving Permit is required; may be impassable.
6 South Luangwa you can obtain one for $20 through AAA (aaa.com) or the American
National Park Automobile Touring Alliance (aataidp.com).
For More: See Lonely Planets Zambia, Mozambique & Malawi guidebook ($26.99) or download the Zambia chapter from shop.lonelyplanet.com ($4.95).