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 A SCIENTIFIC GUIDE
TO

PRACTICAL CUTTING
EVERY STYLE OF GARMENT TO FIT THE HUMAN FORM.

BY WILLIAM GLENOROSS,
AcTiion OP "A GUIDE TO PRACTIC^M, CUTTING;" "A MANUAL, OR TllVE GUIDE ;" and op the
" GUTTER'S MONTHLY JOURNAL, AND SEMI-ANNUAL REPORT OF FASHIONS."

I]sr ON^E V^OLTJME,

ILLUSTRATED BY DIAGRAMS OF NEARLY EVERY STYLE OP GARilENT THAT IS NOW

WORN BY EITHER SEEN, YOUTH, OR CHILDREN : ALSO, LADIES' BASQLTNES

AND HABITS BY ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, COMBINED WITH PRO-

PORTIONS, BY THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A CENTRE POINT. ,

NK^A^ YORK:
Published by WILLIAM GLENCROSS, 569 Broadway.

181
 o
b
<

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year one tliousand eiglit hundred and seventy-three, by
WILLLVil GLENCROSS,
in the office of the Libraiian of Congress at Washington.

K
%
^
"t

0./^ \C)-Z3.^L rev'd

 PREFACE.
TjrN introducing this, my tliircl work on through three editions ;
and at no time

^1 cutting, I do it witli renewed conll- since it was first published has there been
? deuce, looking at it from Reason's so great a demand for the work as during
standpoint, its basis being establislied upon the past year. Perhaps no work of the
the immaculate principles of philosophy kind, or the principles contained in it,

and common sense, which will at once be have ever met with such universal ap-
its best recommendation to all thinking probation. We believe it has reached
minds, who have either studied or taken an and been practiced in almost all parts- of
interest in how to fit the human body in all the civilized world. We have been called
its various forms, and also to give it that upon one week to send a system to Aus-
in

character for artistic beauty of style, and tralia on the one hand, and to the Hawaiian
elegance in its appropriateness to the struc- Islands on the other.
ture to be suited, which is the ambition of It would be a work of supererogation
all artistic cutters. for me to go into details respecting the
There are many cutters, or students of merits of the late work. In fact, wher-
the art, who have not as yet come up to ever it or its representatives has gone, its

the high standard here referred to, having superiority has been duly acknowledged
paid but little attention to the cause-and- and appreciated. Tosuch an extent has this
effect principles of the art, a strict observ- been the case, that in certain cities of the
ance of which can alone cultivate and im- West, we have been credibly informed by re-
prove the mind in that which it is essential spectable merchant tailors, that they would
for it to know, and fully understand the not emjiloy a cutter who did not use our
various structures of the human form, and system. We are in possession of hundreds
how best to carry out the results of those of letters at this office eulogizing the prin-
ideas necessary for its requirements. It is ciples of the work, and tendering their
believed that the student in taking a strict thanks to the author for their remarkable
observation of the diagrams laid down in success. I could mention the names of

this work the great variety and artistic thousands who are now in position, in-

beauty of their execution and reading the fluence and wealth through fhe instru-

instructive ideas explanatory of the same, mentality of the ideas inculcated in the
will have his mind sufficient!}^ exercised on aforesaid work and their author. The de-
problems with a disposition to re-
scientific mand work has rendered it neces-
for the
duce the same to practice, as to be the initia- sary that I should set ray head to work
tory step to study and future progress. The again and; I can assure ray readers that it is

present work is based on the same princi- no small business in the line of brain work.
ples as our late work, the "Manual," whicli And I think I will not be accused by any
run out over a year ago, after having gone of iny readers, with the present work


[Preface.

before them, as being guilty of egotism, have,

namely the bushelman. But all
when I say that I have felt myself equal bushelmen are not artists. In answer to
to the task. all such queries, I would hereby state

As have alread}' stated, the present

I show me any principle, either in science
system based on the same principles as
is or in philosophy, which is correct in the
the "Manual," namely the anatomical abstract, and I will show j'ou one that can
proportions of the human form, by actual be reduced to practice. But I do not
measurement, combined with proportions mean to say by the foregoing that all men
the measures producing the proportions. have the requirements to become artists ;

la the old work, many of its principles on the contrary, I positively do know
were correct in themselves and incapable that there are a great many engaged in

of being improved upon while in the new ; the profession who must always be failures,
work, actual measurement, through the in- Nature never having designed them for
strumentality of the centre point in estab- any such purpose, and had they studied
lishing the point of shoulder, becomes a their organism and its tendencies, might

demonstrated reality. This point being have been useful ornaments in some other
truly established, all other measures or sphere of action. But we would hereby
points being equal, the cutting of a gar- positively assert, that through the instru-
ment to fit the various shapes of the hu- mentality of our system, we have taken
man form, remains no longer one of doubt- some individuals of very moderate capacity
ful import, but becomes at once one of and made tolerably good cutters of them.
stern reality. No mantua- making ar- xVs an illustration of this fact, I would re-

rangements of trying on are necessary in fer to two cutters who learned at my office

this system. But methinks I hear the fol- more than six years ago, one of whom is
lowing query Do you mean to convey
: cutting in one of the first houses in New
the idea, if the principles of your system Jersey at the present time, and has filled

are correct, that all men can be taught to some first-class positions ; the other, when
measure correctly? I certainly believe last heard from, was in Milwaukee. Two
that any man with ordinary capacity can different foremen of mine, at different pe-

be taught to measure correctly through a wanted me to discharge these young

riods,

proper course of drilling, subject to the men, after they had been practising for
same mistakes that occur in other mechani- three or four weeks, stating to me that they
cal operations. But perhaps some will could never make cutters of them. My
say Will
: actual measurement, such as answer in both cases was that there was
yours, produce as good style of garments no such letter in my alphabet as " could
as some of the other systems ? My answer not."' I took hold of the Milwaukee pupil
is, looking at the query from reason and myself, and I made him the best cutter
practical observation, it will produce bet- out of a class of sixteen, which was then
ter styles, for the following reasons : A coat learning at my office. This statement will

must fit in order to have good style ; a man idcntifj' the individual to manj'.
draughtsman in order to cultivate
nnist be a In our new system we have made a
and produce styles. The mantua-making, change in our measuring square, so as to
trying-on system completely neutralizes all make it conform to the requirements of our
style, as it destroys all taste for drafting new principle of taking the centre point,
and all confidence, depending entirely on a and by means of which we think they will be
third party for whatever success it may enabled to take llie measures with greater
Preface.]

accuracy. As there are many in the trade casionally to cut garments, not in the
who have a prejudice against using any in- ordinary line of cutting, but which can
strument measuring, we have provided
for be found in this work, where everj'thing is
for tliistwo different ways, which will
iu laid down so as to meet the reciuirements
appear under the head of "Measurement." of the trade. It is believed no other
To those who have had our former work work of the kind ever published contained

we would say you should undoubtedly such an amount of useful information and I ;

have the new, coming, as it does, bright- might add hero, very best of reasons
for the
ened up with new ideas and illustrating their authors never had any practical ex-
some of the old ones more practical
in a perience on the subject.
form, clothed in a new dress and illus- Iu conclusion I have to say that the
trated by someof the most beautiful dia- present work has cost me a great deal of
grams that have ever been presented to care and study in the transferring of my
the trade in any work. All the different ideas through its lettered pages. The
styles of garments are laid down according principles laid down in this work are not
to the newest fashion and all the newest
; of doubtful import, but are the production
stjies of cloaks are laid down in a neat of one of the first tailors of the age ;and
and practical form. as he feels positive that this is his last work
We present some very jjractical illustra- on cutting, as his future in this life must
tions of corpulent and stooping men, with il- necessarily be short, he feels a strong con-
lustrations of military and naval uniforms ;
viction, which him a source of gratifi-
is to
and also with most of the newest stjdes of cation, that the principles as embodied in
children's costumes, and a very neat illus- this work will live long after him, and that
tration of the neweststjdes of ladies^ basques it will be the means of producing wealth

and habits. To those who have learned to thousands yet in the unforseen future as
with work will be of much value
us, this it has in the past,
is not only the firm con-

and interest and to all, as a work of re-

; viction but also the hope of the author,
ference, when they are called upon oc- William Glexcross.

New York, September, 1873.

 ON MEASUREMENT.
HOW TO MEASURE.
^JlfN the outset, we would solicit the or too high, because, if care is not taken,
a '

reader you
I

3;|_ earnest attention of the or will be likely to fall into the same
student to the proper way of taking error ;
then feel the socket-bone or nape of
the measure as laid down and illustrated in neck, as some call it, and if the collar seam
this work, for the very obvious reason, if is not right on it, then mark it with a piece
your measure is taken correctly, you will of chalk ; then take the measuring square
be ver}' likely to cut correctly'. And in with the solid elbow in your right hand,
order to attain this very desirable result, and cause your customer to raise his arms,
we would suggest the following plan, par- and place the elbows of square close up
ticularly to tailors in the rural districts, under arm then let the arms fall down
;

where they very frequently have customers to their natural position, and as the}' fall
come to be measured for a coat in their down draw the two elbows of square close
shirt sleeves, and not unfrequently with together on the body ; then step to the
very bad fitting coats on them to measure right side of your customer and take a side
over, as also these suggestions may be view, and see whether the elbows are
useful to a great many cutters : I would placed right straight across the body or
suggest, to all whom it may concern, to not then put a mark on centre of back on
;

have four or five skeleton jackets, made of the upper side of square, and establish the
some heavy cheaj:) goods, to extend a little point of bottom of sj-e on back, then apply
below the waist, and to button up the front the square at natui;al waist ; at hollow of
the cut of said jackets to be of that char- waist, just above the hip-bone, draw the
acter which will fit the greatest number of elbows close together let it be straight ;

customers and when a customer comes across the body, and make a mark on centre
along, put ou one of your jackets for the of back underneath. In order to have uni-
purpose of measuring over. formity in our measure, we will first pro-
Our advice is never to measure over a ceed with Figure 3, or diameter cross-
sack coat if it can be avoided the sack ;
wise. Take the short arm of 3'our square in
coat requiring greater length of back from your left hand with the fore finger resting
the bottom of sye up, would be veiy likel}^ on elbow as represented ou the figure ;

to show that extra length in the measure, raise your customer's left arm with your
and when applied to another coat cut right ;
place the square underneath as rep-
through the waist, would produce too much resented, with the solid elbow close up to
length of back and if applied to a sack
; the front of sye, then bring the slide close
coat, the extra allowance should not bo up behind the arm, press them closely to-
given in the draft. gether but not tight, then take the square
With these preliminaries, we will now olTand examine the side that was next to
call the reader's attention to Figure 1. On the bod}', and count the distance between
measurement, draw the coat j'ou are about the elbows, say 41 or diameter crosswise,

to measure over, into its proper ])lace on with I for making up or 42, the half of
the customer have it buttoned examine
; ;
which is the centre line.
the coat which you are about to meas- We will now call the reader's attention
ure over, whether it is too low in the sye to Figure 2, or diameter lengthwise. Take
 On Measurement.]

measuring square in your left hand, just under the arm, and throw it over the right
below tlie solid elbow then raise your cus- ; shoulder, so as to prevent its twisting, then
tomer's left arm with3-our right and put the raise the arm and place the square in the
solid elbow close up under the arm then ; same 230sition again, flat to the body and
let your customer's arm fall straight over closeup to the front of sye ; then draw the
it ;
let the square be flat to the body and measure to the centre of back, under arm,
close up to the front of arm, the square give the measure a gentle pull and then let
being straight up and down then take ; it rebound back to a breathing point, and
your right hand and fetch the slide down touch centre of back, no matter how hollow
on shoulder let your left hand be holding
; the back may be this we call sye meas-
;

the square flat to the body at the same time, ure, say II3 inches then draw the pivot in
;

so as to avoid getting it too far in toward the the direction and apply measure to natural
neck or too much out ; then look between waist ; draw your hand right along the body
the two elbows and count the numbers, say in a straight direction, if there are wrinkles
51 inches, or diameter lengthwise ;
j'our in the coat, gather them up give the meas-
;

diameter crosswise being 4i, mark one half ure a little pull and let it rebound back, and
of that Inside of elbow, at top of shoulder, touch natural waist ; this we call elliptic
with g of inch added, which would be 2i or measure and suppose it to be 121 inches,
centre point, and also make a chalk mark (see Figure 8). We take another proof
inside of elbow, at same point. measure for corpulent men onlj', as re-
We will now proceed to Figure 4, con- presented by 3 waist on Figure 8 when ;

sisting of shoulder, sye,and elliptic meas- we are taking the natural waist and marking
ures. Take the long arm of square in your underneath on centre of back, we also put
hand, a little below the elbows, so as to a mark underneath at side and when we ;

enable you to command it with more ease ;

are taking shoulder measure with the square
raise your customer's left arm with your straight up and down, we put a mark inside
right, and place the elbow of square close of square, at side, on natural waist, thus
up under arm, and let your customer's arm producing a cross we then apply a meas-
;

fall down over it ; let the arm of square be sure from the cross to the natural waist,
flat to the body, and close up to the front of and use it in connection with the elliptic, in
sye ;
then stroke down the shoulder of your the case of corpulent men, so that the one
customer and loosen your hand from the can be a corrective of the other ; whatever
front of sye, so that the shoulder may be in difference exists we generally divide it.

a natural and easy position ;

then apply The measure taken from around
front of sye,
your measure up to the socket-bone; see that behind to ITa at top of back, on Figure 8,
the pivot of measure is properly turned may be used as a corrective; then place
by giving it a jerk, and the measure ap- measuring square on as the upper measure,
plied in a straight direction ; this we call on Figure 1^ with the elbows of square rest-
shoulder measure 121; we will suppose it ing on Figure 8, or centre point, as repre-
inches then apjDly your measure right over
; sented on Figure 8, let it be straight across,
shoulder-blade to the centre of back at bot- mark inside toward the neck, and then
tom of sye, (see Figure 1); be sure the measure the distance from back seam to cen-
measure is drawn in a straight direction ;
tre point, which we will suppose 8 inches,
this we call blade measure, and suppose it which is the balancing point for shoulders
to be 17 inches withdraw ; we will then of forepart.
the square, and draw the inch measure We will now finish with the inch measure.
 [Osr Measurement.

Applj' measure from socket-bone at neck ))ackseam in the same way I have des-
to proof-centre, say 2 inches, then to bottom cribed. In measuring by this plan care
of sye 83 inches ;
natural waist, 17? ;
full should be taken that the coat measured
length, 19 ; skirt 34 ;
next, length of sleeve over should not be moved from its first
from centre of back to elbow and sleeve position. The depth of sye and natural
hand next, width of elbow and hand at the
;
waist may be also very correctly taken
most prominent part, according to fashion ;
with the inch measure b}^ the plan repre-

next, breast and waist measure, as repre- sented on Figure 5 Take the point of inch
:

sented on Figure 6 which completes the

;
measure in your left hand as represented,
coat measure with the measuring-square. draw the measure over right shoulder,
We will now describe how the system may around the arm, along underneath, and
be used, and the measures taken without across the back, under the left arm, around
the measuring-square, in the following man- the sye and over slioulder, and then place
ner : Take the plain square, the short arm both ends of the measure in one hand, and
in your right hand, placeon the point of it draw the measure tight, and place it straight
shoulder, touching 'the extreme point of across the back with the other. The
shoulder-bone with your finger, as repre- natural waist maj^ be marked by putting
sented on Figure 1, and then lay elbow on the inch measure straight around the hol-
said point, and let the long arm run straight low of waist, and holding the measure
across to the other shoulder, and make a tight in front, while you mark it with the
mark underneath on centre of back ; then other hand underneath ;
behind, the di-

arm of your
take the square and raise the ameter lengthwise and crosswise may be
customer, and put the long arm of square used in tlie following manner : By using 5 k
straight across under arm, make a mark graduated inches for the length, and 4?
on coat both in front of and behind on sj^e for the width.

top of square then lay the straight edge

;
In extreme high or low shoulders or flat

of square close up to the front of sye, and
make a cross mark at the front of bottom
then let the edge of square range with the
back seam of coat, with the top of short
arm ranging with the chalk mark at back
sye then put a mark on top of square at
;
centre of back. You
means, have established
bodies, this plan would not work so well as
;
taken with the measuring square. Fig. 7 is
an illustration of our new measuring square.
Figure 8 is a diagram exhibiting the ap-
plication of the measurement, and also a
centre line all the way through from the
will, through this middle of diameter on back to the centre
the depth of line, which runs to the centre of diameter

shoulder, and also the bottom of sye on back on back while in a joining position to the
and front ; also a point at the bottom of shoulder ; also the centre point and proof-
sye in front, from which to take the shoulder centre. This can only occur, however, in
measure and blade, and also the sye mea- certain proportions. The measure taken
sure and elliptic, which should be taken from front of sye away to 17^ at top of
with an inch tape from the cross mark in back is one we never use, but some of our
front of sye to the various points in the friends use it as a corrective in case they
manner we have hitherto described. The should take the depth of sye on back too
natural waist can be marked by laying the long or too short ; b}'- the application of
short arm of a common square in the hol- thismeasure they can remedj^ it, but if the
low of waist, with tlie long arm running depth of sye on back is taken correctly it
straight across, and making a marlc on is entirelv useless.
Actual MeasiireT7iejit Pltite -I.
 Description of Plate I.

J^IGURE 1 is the doi)th of syc on back, Figure 5. On this figure is represented

taken with the measuring square, and the way of taking the depth of sye and
also natural waist, taken at the hol- natural waist with the inch measure, ly
low of waist above the loin bones ;
and drawing the measure close up under arms
also the blade measure, taken over the and drawing it up over the shoulder, and
shoulder to centre of back at depth of syc after adjusting it in its proper place to hold
on back, the square being placed in the it, as represented, and mark on the top at
same manner as on Figure 4. back seam. The natural waist may be
Figure 2 is the diameter lengthwise. taken by drawing the inch measure close
The diameter crosswise, as represented on above the loin bone.
Figure 3, should be taken before Figure 2, Figure 6 represents breast and waist
iu order to know the diameter crosswise, measure taken over the vest.
so as to be enabled to mark the centre point Figure 7 is the measuring square.
on ligure 2 by the slide on top of shoulder, Figure 8 represents the system with the
which is half the diameter crosswise. application of the measures, and exhi])itiug
Figure 4.
On this figure we have re- a centre all through from centre of diame-
presented shoulder measure, taken from the ter to centre with the centre point at 8.

bottom front of sye to socket bone, and The proof measure at natural waist is onl3'
sye measure from same point under arm to used in the case of corpulent men.
centre of back ;
and also the eliptic from
the same point to natural waist.
 ; :

Description of Plates 11. and III.

nOAV TO PRAUGHT FROCK COAT. depth of sye according to measure ; square

would claim the reader's most these lines across by back line and the
'fc '
dent attention while
draught a coat hj the system
'
to
we proceed waist by
square on back
construction line
your diameter length-
line,
;
then lay j'our

according to measure and in doing so, we ;

wise 5?, resting on 83 and elbow on 31,

will select the measure laid down on plate and draw line diameter lengthwise estab- ;

III., which wcwill call the Bowband Coat, lish centre of diameter by dividing the 5k

it being the first coat on which we demon- or 21, and mark

2 inch below centre and

strated our new principle of the proof- establish bottom of pitch at6i then
line ;

centre or centre point. The diagrams on mark width of pitch from bottom 2 gradu-
both plates are those of a Frock Coat. ated inches, as from G|- to 4?, and square
Plate n. represents that which we call the those lines across 'then mark on your line;

fair-proportioned type, the whole body of centre point 8 inches, according to measure.
the coat being laid down in a solid piece We will now proceed to the bottom line of

with accompanying appurtenances, to

its pitch, and find width of pitch by laying the
show the application of the measures, and elbow of square on at 121 or S3'e measure,
in laying on the back to those points in with 121 resting on back line then deduct ;

which it stands connected, and exhibiting 3-our diameter crosswise, oil, which is 43,

to view the manner of forming the fore- leaving the width of bottom of pitch 7J :

part. In our explanation we shall refer to 1 or s may be added to top of pitch, as at

either plate as the circumstances of the 8s,which should be regulated according to

case may require. The following is the the fashionable width of shoulder for ;

measure: Diameter crosswise, 42 length- ;

width of top mark 2h graduated inches,
wise, 5i shoulder, 121 blade, 171
; syc ;
;
s(j(uare it up and mark 3 inch for spring
measure, 12i ;
eliptic, .14 ; centre point, in stooped men it should not be more than
3 ;
proof-centre, 2 ; depth of sye, 82 ;
1 mark width of back at waist II inches,
;

length of natural waist, 17? ;

full length, and at bottom 33 draw line from 3 to 8h, :

19 ;
skirt, 34 ;
length of sleeve to elbow, and from 71 to ] 3, and form top of back
20J ;
full length, 32A ;
width at elbow, 8| from to 3 shoulder from 3 to 8s pitch
;
;

sleeve hand, 5h. We willnow proceed to from 8g to 71 sidcseam from 71 by 31

;

draught back according to the measure :

skirt as model to 33.

Draw construction line from to 34 lay ;

elbow of square on at 0, with the long arm How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 4.

inside from construction line I3 graduated Draw construction line from to 223
inches, at natural waist, or 17? ; then draw square in top ;
mark down from at top
back line and
from to 19, or full length, to find bottom of syc, your shoulder
then square in top mark down on back ;
measure with the width of top of back in-
line 2 inches or proof-centre, and 8h or cluded, with3 inch added for shoulder and
 '"^
r/n/r ?

MEASURE
Diaiiietex Leii<5thwise 5$
CTOSs-vnse_ 4i
Shoulder \2i
Blade Vi
Sye ^ 111

Depth of Sye ojil^act: 8f

Waist 17fibl9
Proof Centre.-.- S&r7l
Breast:.^_-_ J-*
Waist 16

A\,
hate 3^(^
 ;

PlATKS ir. AND HI.] 11

backscam, say 23 for top of buck, and lOJ sideseam being established 11 inches in
would make lol, liie slionldcr measure from construction line, we mark 2 the dis-
being 121, and one half inch for making tance to said line, for the purpose of form-
up, would amount to 131, or lOJ to bottom ing sideseam, and we mark h inch in at
of 83'e ;
then take your back, laying the natural waist, as represented at V on j)late
bottom of sye of back on (hat of forepart If;we will tl;en lay on back, as represented
backseani on construction line, and nnii'k by Figure 5, dotted line, with the side
the line bottom of pitch b}' that of back, touching at 2 inch in at natural waist, and
also the line diameter lengthwise then run ; h the distance from Ig at sidepoint ; then
up the top of l)ack to the top of forepart appl}'your eliptic mea.sure from 6g, at tiie
to (), and mark the depth of shoulder at Si bottom of sye, to 14 at natural waist, and
l)y that ofback ;
then square these lines move sideseam in or out according to mea-
across ;
and we will es(al)lish our widths sure ;
then mai'k dotted line all the way by
b}' marking on top, from 0, the sj'e mea- the side of back, and form the sideseam
sure, or 121 inches (what we mean by the according to model. We will now mark
sye measure is the measure taken from from G3 at the bottom of sj'C 1 the sye
front of sye, under arm, to centre of back) ;
measure, being 3 iijchcs each way along the
we will now divide the 121 in two parts, bottom and front, as a guide for crossing
making Gj the half; we also add 2 inch lines in tlie forming of sye ;
we will also
f(.)r seams, makiiii;- Oi. this being the part es(abii.--h our centre line b}' marking 2.7

that front of sye comes to, the other half inches from front of s^-e on line diameter
to 121 being only given to produce propor- lengthwise, and is one-half the diameter
tion in draughting, as, by casting a glance crosswise, wilh the > inch added for scams ;

on the diagram in plate II., the sye measure then take your back and place the line
is occupied by the back, in one part, and proof-centre at 8 on centre line, wilh the
the other jiart with the 3 incli is occupied top of back touching the line of ibrejart
with the diameter crosswise, which is de- at P ;
the top of back pitch ma_y also
ducted from the sye measure to 71, illus- touch the line dc|)lh of [-inndder on fore-
trated on Figure 2, and nnirked diameter part, (see Figure 1); then apply your blade
crosswise. We will now proceed with measure to 81, which is 171 inches, as re-
Figure 4 by drawing a line from 121 to presented on plate II. ;
this part t>f the
bottom, on the square, also the line from coat being all on the bias, will stretch a
6g front of sye. We will now come to the I'of inch may be added for making
little,

line of pitch, and mark from the line at up,and when the shoulder is raised with
front of sye our diameter crosswise lA, wadding, 2 to 1 of inch may be added ac-
with 2 inch added for seams, to If, which cording (0 the requirements of raising
is the top point of sidcseam ; we will then the shoulder should be changed up or down
measure the length of our sideseam from at this point to correspond wilh the blade
by applying the sidcseam of back
this point nicasure, if it is found necessary, then
down construction line, as to 201 and 22^, form shoulder by rounding it ofl' 2 inch
then square these lines across. The length from centre line to point of shoulder (see
of sideseam can be also obtained in the model) then Iln'm your sye by touching
;

manner shown on Figures 2 and 3, plate the ;')

on front and bottom, and about 1 of
II. b}^ sweeping from 31 to h. at natural inch in I'rout of line, and S of inch each
waist b}' 71 at jjoint of sideseam. and the way in crossing around the bottoin corner,
l)ottom line in the same way ; the [)i)iiil of ami 1 below the bottom line ;
lay on back


12 [Plates II. and III.

as Figure 5, find apply waist measure along chest ;

2 breast is too much to add in front

the natural waist to (he front at 10 or 17 at IG; in such cases apply your breast
inches ; add li inches foi- making up, and measure with your back in a joining posi-
form fi'ont of breast from lih by IG.lCi, 161 tion, as represented on Figures 2 and 3,

to 102 at bottom, and take out V of h inch, plate II., with 1 the breast measure ad-
unless in cases of large waists, when no V ded, or 3 graduated inches, which Avill
should be taken out, and no allowance given regulate the front of breast. In establish-
for making up, as it will always stretch it forward
ing the front of sye the placing
sufficient for that purpose ; in small waists 2 inch for seamsmerely accommodating
is

the V should be enlarged in proportion, as the measures work backwards from this
and not rounded off in front to its seeming part, and I of inch added to diameter

requirement by the measure, which will crosswise will generall}'^ be enough for
prevent the breast from rising up in front making up.
when buttoned apply 2 breast measure
;

from line in Front of sye to IG in front, How TO DjlAUGHT SkIRT, FiGURE 1.

and also to 1 12 at top, and form breast by Draw construction line from to 18, square

those points then draw line from I2 down

;
in top; mark down construction line from
from Gi to 142, and form neckgorge as model. 0, 21,71 then apply measure from 21 to
;

Mark along the bottom from construction 18, applying exact measure of waist of
line Gh inches, and draw a line from bot- forepart, with bottom of lapel included, and
tom of sye to Gg ; mark up said line I2 1 inch added for fullness ; then draw a
from bottom, then up from I2, 2 inches, line from 21 to 18, or waist of skirt ; Ihen
and place the natural waist in ils proper draw si)ring of skirt by laying elbow of
j)lace; then form bottom of si<lcbody by square at 18 with arm resting at 71 ;
then
the I2, giving it a gentle curve, an.l form form top of skirt by hollowing 1 of an inch
the front by drawing the line by I2 to 1 as niiidel ;
then lay on sidebod\' in a join-
up from bottom ;
then hollow the sidebody, ing position to skirt at 18, and form your
as model, by crossing at the natural waist, spring of skirt to arrange Avith sideseam 82
and giving about of inch of spring on inches up ;
mark length of skirt by that of
cither side at l)i>llom ; take out V of 2 back ;
form bottom of skirt to correspond
inch from lOi arms are
to 11 wiicn the with hollow at lop, the front being half- an
well forward, which indicates a narrow inch shorter than behind.
Plate ^ ^^}


Description of Plate IV.

jlj\N plale IV. we liave two difTereut with i added for scams making 4^, added
'%IJ' styles of coats ;
the one n, dress coat to the widdi of back, make lU inches
7,
*
and tlie other a single-breasted frock. thus allowing 1 inch lor making up, which
As we have shown In onr measurement the goes to the diameter of s^'c.
manner of taking the measure without the
use of the measuring square, the reader can How TO Draught Back, Figure ;5.

use either the common square or inch tape, Draw construction lino from to 34 ; then
as he pleases, according to instructions on select your scale corresponding with the
measurement. "We now propose showing breast measure, then mark inside at natural
the way to draught the dress coat b\' the waist]. inches: tlien draw the back line
5

measure taken without the square, 0:1 gen- from 01)y said 1-1 inches; then mark down
eral principles not to be i\pplicd to this from on back line, 82 inches by S(juare,
coat exclusively, but for the use of whom it natural waist, IG2 ;
full length, 18 ; the
may concern. Tiio following is the meas- lines of pitch, 41 and Gl by the scale, and
ure : diameter crosswise, 41 ; lengthwise, S(iuare those lines Avhich form the pitch, by
51 ;
-shoulder measure, 121 ;
blade, 17 ;
tiie back and also the line at top from
line,

syc measure, Hi; eliptic, 12-5; depth ofsye, to 22. Square in waist lines l)y con-
82 ;
length of natural waist, 16 J ;
full .struction line then take scale and mark
;

length, 18; 34; breast, IS; waist,

skirt, on top from 2h with 3 up for spring, top
10. By a reference to the plan of measure- of pitch 8, bottom 7 at natural waist 3s, :

ment it will be seen that you have got all at bottom 02 draw a straight line from 7
;

the essential measui'cs for cutting your coat, to I2 at natural waist, and form back by
length behind and front, (he blade and tliosc points indicatcil and according to
eliptic measures, and also the widths, the model.
most essential of which is the measure from
front of syc to centre of back, which we IIo\\' TO Draught Forki'art, Fujurk 2.

call the sye measure. 111 inches; we will Draw construction line from to 21,
now divide the sye measure into its appro- and S(juare in top then mark down your ;

priate parts, so that the reader may under- shoulder measure, which was 121, fi'om
stand what he is doing: the width of back at top (0 tOl at liottom of sye, which be-
atbottom of pitch is half the sye measure ing added to (he 22011 top of back will
and one-eighth, say 5s and 1 or T inches ;1 ; make 12i, thus allowing half an inch for
and in estal)lishiug tliL' front of sye from seams ; then vonr scale corresponding-
(alee

at construction line to (31 is half the syc wi(h (he Ijreast and mark down
ifleasiire,

measure and half inch for making up, and from (o ;5 or depth of shoulder to point
the diameter of svo from 01 to It is 41, of shoulder 3, 4 ;
then 8 or 21 inches up
u [Plate IV.

21' Then draw line from Ah under arm to 6 at

from lOi, same as back, and lOi and
or fall length then square those lines
;
across bottom mark up from G, Ih inches; mark
;

from construction line then mark on top ;

up from 141, 1 of an inch, and form spring

line 61 and graduated inches in all

8k, or 2 of side bod}'and bottom as model. Then
cases in front ofsye line, on line, depth of form round of breast from 13| by 151, 15^,
shoulder at front 131 on line of pitch from 141, at bottom. Takeout V from 10 to
8, 11, 21, 15i, on line lOi, or bottom of sye, lOj, and form waist as model, which com-

43, 61, 152, on line lOh. or natural waist pletes the forepart.

T, 5, 51,10, lOi; then mark on bottom line IIow TO Draught Duess Coat Skirt,
6, Hi, 141, I the distance from 11, which
Figure 1. Draw construction line from
is point of sideseam, and bottom of back to 17, mark down from 0, 9 graduated

pitch to 21 is length of sideseam, and should inches, square it out to I5, mark inside

1)0 carefully measured by the side of back ;

from at top 1, then place elbow of square
llien lay your back on in a joining posiliou, on at 1, with arm touching at Ih, and draw
Willi 31 at natural waist of back, resting liair line of 16, mark width of top
top to
on 1 of forepart, with T of back resting of skirt 101, and bottom Gl, draw line from
half way between 8 and 11 at top of side- lOl to 61, and give it a curve of about I
seam ;
apply your eliptic measure,
then at centre, make the width of step 1 inch,

witli the inch tape, from 61 to I2 on back, and curve the top as model and the skirt
and move it in or out to correspond with at plait, from 1 to 9. Figures 6 and 7 is
the eliptic measure: then form your side- the lapel and coHar adapted to this coat,

seam as model. Then lay your top of back and are drafted by the scale from the line
at A, resting on shoulder of forepart at 81, of consti-uctioii.

which should be two inches in front of line Figures 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, are the dia-
of sve, and let the point of back 8 rest grams of a single-breasted frock coat, and

half an inch above the line running from 4 is drafted to the' same measure as that of
on line of shoulder. Then apiily your tlie dress coat, and tlic same sleeves and

blade measure, which is 17, and change collar being adapted to either coat, and
the point to coiUbrm with this measure. with the lapel. Figure 9 is adapted to frock

The proof measure from socket bone to the coat on iilate III. This coat is draughted
same place, may be applied here as a cor- ill the same way as double-breasted frock
rective, and then round your shoulder to coat, represented on plate Ilf, with the
correspond to the line ;
then mark 21 excci)tions of the measure being diifcrent,
inches up the line from Gl at bottom of and the latter being single-breasjed, and
sye, and 21 outside along the bottom then ;
which we will now proceed to describe the
form your sye from point of shoulder, cross- dilference in draughting the forepart. Fig-

iim- llie line at 21, and about of an inch ure 4, from that of the double-breast, and
inside, at bottom corner, crossing at 21 as the difference chiefly consists in the

ati-aiii to 11. Then mark down from 61, Ih lapel growing, too, our remarks will, therc-

inches, and from front of sye to 151 inches, , I'ore, be mostl}' confined to that ])oiiit. In

half the breast measure, then sweep from applying the breast measure to the front

151 by front of .sye ;draw line from

to 13i, of breast to where the lapel is added, it

Ih to 13s, and form neck gorge as model; should have a redaction of h inch less than

then ajiply 'waist measure along natural double-breast to lapel, and then add 21
waist, back included, which Vvill make
16i, inches for lapel, oi- more or less nccording
allowing 1 i inches Wn- V and making uj). to fashion ; an addition is made at waist.


Plate IV.] 15

iiichuliiig the addition allowed for V, of 1% included, say IG2, and mark the i to 8h, we
inches. As the same skirt is adapted to have given it k of inch more for forming
either the single or double-breast, with the at forearm, then draw line on the square
exception that it wonld require to be short- or forearm, from 82 to 8.^ at bottom, then
ened one inch for single-breast, for further draw line from to 82, say 9 inches, the
explanation, see Figure 1, plate ;lrd. half of which is 42 as marked, then draw
the line from 4^ to 3, which is one- third
How TO Draugut Sleeve, Ficuhe 5. the distance from to 82, then divide the
Draw construction line from to 253, distance from 42 to and 82 respectivcl}-,
square in top, the width of back at pitcli which is 2-2, and square up the lines to 2
being 7, and mark distance
lay 7 on at 0, which is also 22, then sweep from to 82
to elbow at loi or 2O5 inches, the measure by 2-2, and straighten curve a little in
being 20, and 2 inch for seams, and (nil front, then sweep from 252 to 82 by 0, lay
length to 252, making o2h, the 3 inch be- elbow of square on at elbow,or 132, with arm
ing for seams. The distance from to 3 2 inch inside from 252, and draw line to 1,

on sleeve is same as from 8 to lOJ on fore- then mark width of bottom from 82 to
part, with I the distance from 7 to 8 on 51, form forearm from 82 to 82 by I, mark
back, amounting to ?>k,we have placed it outside from ISi-l, and finish upper side as
at 3, which it \rould be when joined, or in model, from by I to 51 ; mark your un-
other words, the same distance from mid- derside from 82 to 1 inch inside from 0, or
dle of back pitch, where the back arm seam 2 the measure of s}' e, and form underside
of sleeve joins to bottom of sye at 10?, then as model. The principle of drafting this
square those lines across, then measure sleeve is applicable to any of the coats.
around the sye of your forepart back pitch.
 Description of Plate V.

#N plate V,
stj'les
we have
of coats represented, all
llu-ee different
of
back, 83
of skirt 32
;
natural waist, IG2-I83
in Figure 5 and 8 the length
;
length
;

\vliicli are very fashionable at the of waist is at 17-19, and skirt B3, the
present time, the measures are nearly the proof centre on Figure 3 is 2-71, and on
same, with the exception of the length of Figure 9 11-71 breast 18, waist 16. We
;

waist and skirt, the back, Fig-ure o, is suit- would here remark that it is not necessary
ed to the forepart. Figures 5 and 8, which that the proof centre should be left grow-
represent a single and double-breasted ing outside of shoulders, as represented on
walking coat with pointed lapel, the skirts diagram in cutting pattern, as when the
2 and 4,^re either of them adapted to fore- back at this point is laid on. For fonning
part. Figure 8 ;
only the skirt 4 would re- shoulders, the edge of square may be used
quire an additional length of 1 inch to suit in connection with the line to 71, or what-
the back on Figure 1 and 9 are the dia-
;
ever it may be, the diameter crosswise is
grams of a walking coat of the open V form 4i, but i of an inch should be added for
of breast, the step at front being gently making up, and 3 that amount added to
curved, the bottom of skirt square, but
is centre line at 21, or half diameter cross-
should also be curved when the step at wise ; the line marked 61 at front of sye is

front of collar is; these coats are all laid half sye measure, with i inch in front for
down with the numbers affixed, so that they seams ; to 11 3 is full sye measure, the
may be drafted with the scale for cutting point of shoulders at 81 is 2 inches in front
patterns as well as by the application of the of sye, and where the proof centre at 71
system throngh the measures. As we have touching centre line places it at this point;
already shown the way of drafting by the the amount given in front of breast in coats

measures, on plate 11 and III, it will not be of this kind are in most cases regulated by
necessary to go through the same routine fashion, and according to the size of the
again, but simply to confine our explana- ball of breast, in this diagram we put it at
tions to those points of the diagrams which 2 inches more than half the breast measure
represent the different points of style on from line front of sye, or 11 inches, making
each, peculiar to each garment different 175 we then sweep from 171 to ISA at
;

from those we have already described. top, and then form the bottom part accord-

Wc will now give the measure of Figures ing to fashion, and the requirements of the
1 and 9 : diameter, crosswise, 4j ;
length- customer, whether it should be well slanted
wise, 51 ;
shoulder, 122 ;
blade, 17 ;
in off or moderately so, the bottom is at 17

Figure 5 it is also 17 ;
in Figure 8 it is and would button on a man 15^ at waist.
I7i sye measure, 11^ eleptic, 123 in
; ; ;
On Figure 5 the sye measure is the same,
Figures 5 and 8, 121 depth of sye on ;
but the point of shoulder is 1 of inch fur-
PUtte J*!^
 1

Plate V.] 17

ther forward, being placed at 82 ;

this fore- points of this forepart are in most respects
part is single breasted, and of tlie pointed like that of the other, the point of shoulder
lapel form ;
in front of breast we give it 2 is h of inch further back, being at 81, or 2
breast ^ inch from line front of sye to
less, inches in front of sj^e ;
in front of breast to
15, and 2i inches more for width of lapel ;
lapel in double-breasted coats we give 3
sweep from 15 to 13 2, take out fish of one breast, (subject to contingencies referred to
inch to 142, give the lapel 2 inches width in the explanations to frock coat,) as to 15
at top, and form j'our lapel and front ac- or 9 inches, and width of lapel at this part
cording to model. Skirt, Figure 7, is well 22 inches, and at top 21, at bottom 17 ;

adapted to this forepart, and may be made take out the fish according to model, and
square at bottom if required. form the front by those points indicated.
On Figure 8 we have represented a very The collar, Figure 6, is adapted to either
elegant style of double-breasted walking of these coats ;
it is drafted by the scale.
coat. It has the back in a joining position The roll of breast of coats can be made to
at shoulder, showing the establishment of roll more or less in conformity with the
point of shoulder by the proof centre, touch- sewing, too, part of front of collar being
ing centre point 7?, at centre line 2h ;
the well rounded or otherwise.
 Description of Plate VL

jij^N Figures 1 and 7, wc have a very ranged by laying on the bottom of side-
a|1# neat style of coat or jacket, of the bod}^ in a joining position to that of top of
register form ;
this coat is admirably skirt, and ranging the spring of skirt with
adapted for summer goods and for summer that of sidebody from about 3 inches up.
wear, being well rounded off, and stylish Much care should be. taken in joining the
iu its general appearance. It is drafted sidebod}^ too, at this point, so as not to
to the following measure : diameter, cross- contract it in au}^ particular, and the lining
wise, 41 ;
lengthwise, 6h ;
shoulder meas- should be held full over sidebody, but par-
ure, 12t blade, IT?
;
sye measure, llf ;
;
ticularly at the waist.
eliptic,121 proof centre, 11, and It
; ;
On Figures 2, 3 and 4, we give the dia-
depth of sye, 81 natural waist, 16|-18t
; ;
grams of an English stjie of jacket, but to
length of skirt, 31 ;
breast 18; waist IG. the great points of style of this coat or
The difference in the back of this coat from jacket. New York might lay special claims.
those I have been explaining, consists in This jacket is cut a good length at waist,
the back being a little longer from bottom but not to the extreme that some have
of sye np, and hence better adapted to a been cut; it is 3^ inches below natural
man slightly stooping, the pitch also in both waist, and 3 iu width at this part, the lull

width and breadth is i of inch larger, the length being 17 and 2O5, and 3O2 respec-
waist longer, and the skirt shorter. In the tively ;
the back from natural waist to the
forepart the top of back is laid on with the full length should be gently hollowed to
proof centre, to establish the point of range nearly straight with construction
shoulders Avhich is at 81, the sye measure line ;
a very little spring should also be
111 ;
on front of breast of this coat there is given to side seam below natural waist.
only half breast, and 11 given, or 17 inches These garments being generally cut loose
and 171 at bottom of sye, and at front oi' and graceful, we give 1 of inch more to
waist the skirt is well slanted and rounded width of back pitch, and deduct the same
off at bottom. In cutting the pattern lor off point of side seam marked 11, and al-
this coat, either the sidebody or skirt lowing only 1 of inch over diameter cross-
would have to be pieced out, and care wise for seams the collar of these jackets
;

should be taken in doing so to give it its may be cut to roll them down to the natural
proper form the top of skirt with flap, is
; waist, or given a short roll, according to
cut straight across, ranging with the waist the round of stand up of collar. In long
lines ;
the skirt should be cut to plait, so waists the spring of sidebody should be
as to allow of A inch fullness ;
it is thrown gently hollowed, and made nearly to ar-
out^2 inches outside of construction line at range with the construction line the spring ;

bottom, but the spring of skirt should be under arm, afcer crossing natural waist.
Plate 6^!'
Platk VI.] 19

should take its regular range of spring in the pieces joined together, it will throw out

proportion to the length of waist ; the sido- the sideseam h inch, and draw it down from
bod}' should be cut k of inch short, or i, top, to nearly the same amount, and hence
and stretched from one inch above natural we divide the extra material as we have
waist to the bottom, and care should be herein described.) Then mark the line of
taken to have the linings put in full, both shoulder at 4, so as to produce square
in length and breadth, over sidebody, par- shoulders, square these lines across the
ticularly below the natural waist, as tight upper lines by back
and the waist line,

linings would destroj' the whole ell"ect of lines by construction line, then lay on your
the spring. As these jackets are cut to sye measure 111, on line bottom of pitch ;

hang Hat in the short skirt, the spring of deduct your diameter crosswise, 4^ oft',
skirt is put at Ih inches. The points of leaving 71, the i of inch for making up.
construction of this coat are so nearly the We add to back in this kind of coat, mak-

same as the previous one, with the excep- ing it 7^, then add 1 inch extra to top of
tion of the length of waist and a wider roll pitch to 83, mark on top and then up
2^,
of breast, that further comments will be for spring 3, mark width of back at natural
deemed unnecessar}-. waist 31 to 41, and at bottom 5, form back
Figures 5 and 6 are the diagrams of a from to 3, shoulder from 2 to 83, pitch
New York jacket ; as this jacket is of the from 83 to 75, sidefrom 73 by 41, skirt as
sack species, although laid out on the frock model ;
the back below natural waist should
principle, we will show the manner of have a gentle curve, as represented.
drafting it by the measures. The following
is the measure : diameter crosswise, -Ih ;
How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 0.

lengthwise, 52 ;
shoulder measure, 121 : Draw construction line from to 31,
blade, 17 sj'e measure, 111
;
eliptic, 13 ;
;
then mark down from your shoulder
depth of sye on back, 82 natural waist, ;
measure 101, to bottom of sye with width
17 ; full length, 21 ;
skirt, 2Si of top of back, 21 included, making 121,
thus allowing 3 inch for making up, then
How TO Draft Back, Figure 5. Draw mark your diameter lengthwise, at 4|, b}'
construction line from to 28i, mark in- back from bottom of sye, and depth of
side from construction line at natural waist shoulder at 3, also by back, mark up from
la draw back line from
inches, by li, lOl to 71 at top of sidebody, A inch higher,
sfjuare in top then mark depth of sye on
;
as we have already described on back ; 31
back Si, and natural waist 17, full length is the point where the blade measure places
21, lay on elbow of square at 3 and mark the point of shoulder, then square these
tliameter lengthwise by 3, then mark up lines across, mark on top from your s^'e

from 8i-li to 61, or 3 inch less than coats measure II3 inches, but these jackets be-
cut through tiie waist, (as we give I of inch ing made of rough coating and should be
more length in coats of this kind than those cut easy, we have placed it at 111, then
wliichare cut through the waist, we place divide the sj'e measure with 3 inch in front
h inch of the extra material at bottom of for seams, to O3, and draw these lines down

back pitch as at 6|, and the otiier k at the to bottom of sj'e, then mark on line of pitch

top of sideseam at 2, which is i)laced 1 of from front of sye, your diameter crosswise.
inch higher, and h inch further in ;
this No allowance, is given, it being given on
is necessary to provide for the fact that the back ;
then mark the length of your

when the iish under arm is taken out and sideseam bj^ back from 2 to natural waist.
20 [Plate VI.

and full length to 223, scjuare these lines and 4i of back resting at I of forepart,
across. It is very difficult to take an elip- trace a line along the side of back, and
tic measure correctly in coats of this kind, form 3'our sideseam as model, turning it into
but the sideseam should seldom come inside a hollow at natural waist, and bottom of
of construction line at bottom.The follow- skirt as model ;
then form your sye from
ing is draw the line front of
a good plan ; point of shoulder to point of sideseam, in
sye down to flap head, and take a measure accordance with the principle laid down in
over the loins, and apply one half the frock, crossing the line 2 J inches each way
measure, as from Qk, with width of back from G3, and inside from corner, I, mark
included, with h inch added for seams, then in front of sj^e h breast, with 11 or 2 inches
lay on your back to form shoulder, centre added to 171,and sweep by front of sj'e
point at 71, touching centre line, and point from 171 to ISs, and form neck-gorge
82 at the same time apply blade measure
; from 83 to 151, and front from 15 5 by 171-
and form shoulder to conform with this 172-173-132, and bottom from ISh to 31,
measure, then lay your back on the bottom take out fish under arm, and Y at neck-
of pitch, resting I of inch outside from 2, gorge and finish forepart.
 th
Plate 7*1

ft>,f

12'-' Hi

/I
 Description of Plate VII.

tS til is plate is exclusively^ devoted to We now describe forepart. Figure

will

J surtout overcoats, and as the meas- 0. be perceived by looking at bot-

It will
^
ure and manner of drafting is the tom of sye on forepart and width of top of
same as frock coat, we shall confine oar back that the 3 inch has been added to
explanation to the extra allowance given shoulder measure, with A inch for making
to the measures in drafting these styles of up, thus making 131 inches, also the 1 is
garments, and in order to do so we will added to the sye measure, making 123, and
give the measures and the allowances,
first that the 12^ is divided, with 3 inch thrown
and then show their application. . to front, at Gl for seams, and also the di-
Diameter lengthwise, 5?, 3 inch added, ameter crosswise with the 2 inch added,
51 ;
crosswise, 4?, h added, 41 ;
shoulder making in all 41, establishes the point of
measure, 121, 1 added, 131 ;
blade 17, I sideseam at 2, the sideseam is also form-
added, 171; sye measure, llh, 1 added, ed in the same manner as frock ; by the
12i eliptic, 131, 1 added, 13^
;
depth of ; application of the eliptic measure, with 1
sye on back, 83, i inch added, 9, the i or i of inch added, the centre line is pro-
inch to be given in diameter lengthwise ;
duced the same way, 3 diameter crosswise,
proof centre remains the same; centre point with 3 the extra allowance also divided,
has 3 inch added natural waist remains; and the shoulder is formed by the line,
the same, full length likewise, front of proof centre and the centre point at 81,
breast is h breast measure, the breast has being placed on centre line and applying
thus 1 inch added in the above measure, the blade measure with the 1 added, or 171;
the waist should have 1 inch for overcoat for overcoat there should be added 33 at
and I2 for linings, if wadded ; the sleeve waist ; the neck gorge of overcoat requiring
should be cut to the measure. to be higher in consequence of being but-
Description of back. Figure 1 : From toned up occasionally, should be marked
on top bottom of sye has h inch added,
to at 23 or 21 inches down from 122 at top,
making and the I inch is all given in the
9, and gorge formed accordingly.
diameter, making 51, the depth of shoulder We will now proceed and draft forepart,
remaining the same as inside coat on bot- ; Figure 9, there is very little connected
tom of pitch the S3'C measure has 1 inch with this forepart difi'erent from the other,
added, making 12 3, one half being added except the lapel being growing too, and in
to diameter crosswise, and the other to very heavy goods it is much more appro-
width of back. In sacks that are required priate these two foreparts are essentially
;

verj' loose we add 1 to width of back at alike, with the following exceptions : the
pitch the width of back at natural waist
; sye measure in this case is laid down at
is about 3, or according to fashion. 111, the extra 1 being given in the diame-


[Plate VII.

ter of tlic sye. We will proceed and show your forepart, suppose it to be 18 inches,
how to draught (he front, wherein it dif- then draw your construction line from to

fers from the other forepart : mark A the 33, to 20 fs length of elbow, then mark
breast measure from 3 to 10, sweep from the distance on forepart from 8 to IO3,
IG to 1-43 by 3, take out Y of 1 inch from or 2.2, and h the distance on back from
14i to 152, then 3| to 181, then 3| to 191, 41 to 63, which is H, add 23 and i

apply measure at natural waist, allowing together, make 31, deduct 1 for joining
3i inches for making up, including Y, and of sideseam, and you have got 31 ;
from
then form your front by those numbers. middle of pitch or back arm seam to bot-
tom of sye, then mark down 3| to 31, draw
How TO DiiAtTonT Skirt, Fiuure 8. lines from 31 to 9, and also 20 to 9, which

Draw construction line from to Idh, is 3 the S3'e measure then draw line from ;

mark down from and 83, measure

21 to 9 or 91, divide that in halves to 3,

carefully the width of your waist, and mark h of same from 3 to 31, and sweep
apply it from 21 to 20, including 1 inch from to 9 by 31, and straighten the curve

over for making up, then lay elbow of a little towards the forearm draw hair ;

square on 20 with long arm resting on 21, line of ibrearm from 9 at top to 9 at bot-
and draw spring of skirt draw line from ;
tom,sweep from 33 at bottom to 9 by 0,
21, to 20, or top of skirt, and hollow 3 mark frpm 9 at bottom to 62, the width of
inch, lay bottom of sidebod}' in a joining 3'our bottom, mark 1 inside to 81, and out-
position at 20, and round plait of skirt to side 1 and form forearm, from 9 by 1 to 9,

correspond with sideseam about 3 inches and backarra from by 1 to 63 at bottom,

up, mark length of skirt by that of back, for underside, mark 3 your sye from 9 at
the front 3 inch less than behind, and give front to 1 behind, and form v'our under-

it the same round as that of waist. The side as model the collar 6, and the lapel 7,
;

sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the follow- are drafted by the scale corresponding with
ing way : First measure around the sj'e of the breast measure.
TlciUdth

Description of Plate VIII.
j"]|\N Figures 1, 2, 3, is Uie diogram of a
'|Jy'single breasted sack coat, it is drafted
"!
to the following measure : diameter
crosswise, 43, lengthwise, 51, shoulder
measure 121, blade 17, sye measure' HI.
It is marked llA, but should be 111, depth
of s_yeon back 8h, natural M'aist 17, full
length 19, skirt 30, breast 18, waist 10.
How TO Draught Back, Figure 3.
Draw construction line from to 30, lay
on elbow of square at 0, and draw back
line from b}" h, then mark down from
depth of sye 82, lay on diameter length-
wise on back line, 51 on 83, and draw line
depth of shoulder from 31, then divide di-
ameter, say 21 or centre, mark 3 inch be-
low centre for bottom of pitch at 61, then
mark up from 61 to 4, 21 inches for top
line of pitch or according to fashion, then
mark down from natural waist 17, and
full length 19, square the uijper lines by
back line, and waist lines by construction
line, lay on your sye measure at back line
at 83, 111, and deduct your diameter
crosswise off 4, from 111, leaving 71, to
which we add h inch for seams to 81, draw
hair line from 71 up to top of pitch, and add
1 inch inside to 81, mark inside from at top
21, raise top i for spring, form top from to
I, as model, and shoulder from I to 8| from
81 by 71 to 81, from 71 to 81 is I inch add-
ed to S3'e measure for seams, mark width
of bottom inches, draw line from 81 to 6
and form sideseam by 7 or 2 inside from 8,
and form out your back seam as model
from 2 to 30, the diameter crosswise is
placed here with 3 diameter at 2g, and 1
inch down from line, for the purpose of
forming back, and also showing the 1 inch
extra which back of sack requires more
than other coats, as given from 10 to 9 at
point of side of forepart.
How TO Draught Forepart, Figure 1.
Draw construction line from to 30|,
square in top, mark down from your
shoulder measure to 10 with lop of back
2'i added, making 121, the shoulder meas-
ure being 121, thus allowing h inch extra
for making up, then lay on back 81 on 10,
and mark line of pitch and diameter length-
wise, 71 and 41 respectively-, and run back
up to top and mark line depth of shoulder
at 31, b}- that of back, then S(|uare those
lines across, mark length of waist on fore-
part by back, from 9 to 18, 20, by 81, 8,
and sijuare those lines across, also the line
231 or depth for flap, then mark from to
4, diameter crosswise with the h inch add
ed to back, from 71 to 81, to 101 is 3 sye
measure, then draw these lines to 4 and lOl
at bottom, then mark centre line, or di- .2
ameter crosswise as at 2, and lay 011 back
Figure 2 as model, with line depth of shoul-
der touching centre line and top of back
at B, touching top line at 61, apply your
blade measure from bottom of sye over
shoulder to 83, or blade measure to 17, add
1 of inch for making up, aiid form shoulder
of forepart, according to model. In all
sack coats, unless in very erect structures,
we let the point of shoulder touch construc-
tion line at 31 and in erect structures we
use the line depth of shoulder, instead of
proof centre, in all sack coats, as it makes
the shoulder a little straighter, and braces
them up a little more in front, then add 1
inch up from 10 to 9 at side, mark I out-
side from 18 at natural waist, and mark
22 at bottom, and form sideseam as model,
mark on front ot breast from 3 to 141, 3
breast, with 11 inches added, sweep from
141 to 133 by 3, in front of sye, draw line
from I3 to 132, and form neck gorge as
model, the Figure 3 marked on either side
of 4 at bottom, is 1 the sye measure placed
on either side of corner, for crossing the
lines in forming sye, then form sye by
shoulder point at 31, by 3, 4, 3 to 9, square
in bottom Irom 301 to 141 at front, draw
line from 141 at front of breast to 141 at
bottom, mark 1 inch in front to 151, then
form front and bottom as follows from 132
:
by 141, 151, 151, 15^, 121, to 2i, and
complete sack coat.
 Description of Plate IX.
#N Figure 2, 3, 4 of this plate we have
two ditferent styles of a New York
'
"?
jacket, the same back being adapted
to either forepart. These jackets are both
drafted to the same measure, and are both
laid out on the frock principle, and we do
not propose to go over the system with
these jackets, but simply to refer the reader
to Figures 5 and 6, on plate YI. where we
have given a verj" ample explanation of a
single breasted jacket of the same style.
Our explanation in this case, shall, there-
fore be directed in showing how to draft
the double breast. The shoulder of Figure
4 is established by the centre point and
that of Figure 2 by line depth of shoulder.
It will be perceived that the line depth of
shoulder produces a straight shoulder,
which some of our patrons may
this style of coat they can try both prin-
;
ciples and adopt that which they like the
best. They are both cut double breasted,
the one being pointed lapel with square
bottom, and the other with curved lapel
and curved bottom there is no extra al-
;
lowance given to diameter crosswise at
poiut of side of these jackets, for the fol-
lowing reason that when the fish under
: Figure 3, on back, placed for forming
arm is joined, it will throw it, the point of
side, out 3 inch, and draw it down to the
same amount besides we have added h
; jacket, according to fashion, and at the will
extra to pitch of back at 7 3, at sideseam
on Figure 2 from front of sye to lapel is
;
2 breast to 15 2, and width of lapel 31 to
181 sweep from 15h to 131, take out
; Y
to 143, add 3 inches to 11 h or top of lapel,
then mark I83 in front, at natural waist,
and at full length 171 bottom 123 and ;
form the front as model. In Figure 1 the
front of breast and lapel is 1 less, being
151 and I83 18 in front at natural waist,
;
and 143 at bottom and is formed by the
;
numbers in front in the same way we have
described. The hollow at sideseam of
these styles of jackets should be stretched
8 of an inch at h, at natural waist, before
joining, and cut that much short at 231,
and the lining kept full oversidebody. By
a strict observance of the manner of draft-
ing these jackets in connection with Fig-
ures 5 and 6, plate YI., will enable the read-
er to draft one of these jackets as easy as
any other coat.
Figures 1 and 5 are the diagrams of a
reefer or pea jacket. This jacket is draft-
ed to the same measure as that of the other
two jackets, excepting sye measure, which
is 1 of inch more in this case than the others,
;
the following is the measure diameter :
lengthwise, 53; crosswise,, 41; shoulder 121;
blade, 171; sye measure, 111 the other ;
jackets II3 depth of proof centre, 11 cen-
; ;
tre point, 7i depth of sye on back, 8 3
; nat- ;
ural waist, 17; full length in Figures 2 and 4,
21; in Figure 1, 283; length of skirt in each
30. In the sye measure of these jackets,
the reader may think we have only allowed
1 of inch extra for making up, but such is
prefer in not the fact, as when the lish under arm is
joined it will throw out the point of side
at 2 and 9, from 1 to 3 inch, which adds
so much to the sjg measure. In back.
Figure 1. the 2 inch added to the sye
measure for making up, is given to the
width of back at pitch, to 71 the line of ;
proof centre is not used in this jacket but ;
the line depth of shoulder, as marked on
shoulder marked by hair lines the step ;
at 232 on back, may be omitted in this
of the cutter ;
the back line is marked in I
at natural waist, and at step. The width
of back at natural waist is 6 inches, and at
bottom 61 the front of breast in the same
;
Avay as that of Figure 4, excepting that
the front is drawn straight from 161 in
;
front of breast, to 161 at bottom. In some
cases half inch more might be added at
bottom. At natural waist of forepart. Fig-
ure 5, the side is outside of construction
line 1 of inch,and at plait 11, and at bot-
tom 23 ;
point is regulated a good
this
deal by fashion. They are made to lit
rather close at this point, at the present
time. Figure 25 is for locating the top
of plait, and also of flap the other ;
points of the diagram seem so conspic-
uous, that further comments are thought
unnecessarv.
ruue
2G [Plate X.

dci)tli of shoulder, and therefore has uoth- bottom, from 1 to oA ; take out fish, as from
iiig added.But we mostly keep the point 22 to 5 as model, and finish forepart.
of shoulder at construction line, at 42, and Figure 6 is the diagram of single breast-
the front point touching lop line as at 7 ;
ed over sack, and is drafted to the same
then appl}'' blade measure with i of inch measure, with the following exceptions. It

added for overcoat, and if there is any is but 2 inches shorter ;

the diameter in
filling up of shoulder, sufficient for that this forepart is marked at 42, and the back
purpose, and form shoulder to correspond at 9, 8, 82, should be reduced 1 of inch re-
with your measure. Then mark I outside spectivelj' ;
the 161 at bottom is in the
at natural waist, and li outside from 25i, wrong place, as it applies to the front hair
and 3i at bottom and form side seam
;
line ;
the front of breast is 2 breast meas-
from 9? by % to oh at bottom, and sye from ure from front of sye ;
and the lapel is 21
42 by 3, 4.1, 3, 91 then draw line from
;
inches in width. When a straight sack is

ll to 122, and form neck-gorge as model ;

required, the back line and side lines are
then take out V of 1 of inch, as from 121 cnt straight, and no fish taken out under
to 13 : then mark in front of sj'e from 3 to arm.
13i, 3 breast measure ; sweep from-13i to The sleeve. Figure 4, is drafted in the
121 at top take out V as to 13 mark
; ;
same way as that represented ou Figure 4,
width of lapel from lo^ to 17, or 3^ inches plate VII. The distance in all cases from
and 3 at top, from 13 to 16 draw line ;
to 31 should be from where back seam of

from 171 to 171 at bottom add 1 inch out- ;

sleeve joins on back i)itch, which, in this
side, as to 18 and draw front line from
;
case, would be 1 inch above 8, and would

171 to 18, by 172 and 17t ;

then draw amount to 4, and therefore 1 of inch loo
bottom on the square, front and rear
line ;
short.
mark down from line 1 of inch, and form
PI a If //
 Description of Plate XL

J,N
Plate XI. wc give two illustrations of eliptic. Mi ; deplh of sye on l)ack, l(i ;

J the stooping strneturc, and also two natural waist, 18.V ; full length, 21 ; breast
of the corpulent structure, and un- 243 ;
waist, 25. The reader, by looking
der this class of structures may be enum- at the diagrams of these in con- two coats
erated all the various phases of what is nection with the measure, will at once per-
usually called deformities. We will con- ceive their peculiar adaptation to the
line our remarks to the corpulent structure structures in question. In the Higham
lirst. In the Kolb coat, Figures 2 aiul 8, coat we perceive the diagram of a structure
we have what is usually termed the pot- that never can redound much to the artistic
bellied structure. The various phases of skill of the cutter, however much it may
this structure are the erect and extra erect, to judgment, for these are a
his practical
with high shoulders, and the extra erect class of customers more difficult to (it than
stooping forward ; and under the head of are usually met with. In cases of extreme
the Highara coat, we have three different corpulency, and when the body is gathered
types of corpulency, namely : the st3'le up in a heap, the form is such an unshapely
known as the high hip-boned structure with mass that the cutter would most gladly
high shoulders, whose stoutness is most be- avoid it if he could, and yet men of this class
hind, also the long bodied of a similar are very particular respecting the fit of their
character, and also the which
structure garments, i^articularly as far as ease is con-
carries his corpulencj' all and
around, cerned, and, if it is not easy, everybody
is sometimes stooping. The Iligham coat will soon know it. But there is one type of
represents the latter phase, all but the men in this phase of structure who wear
stooping. We
now proceed and give
will their clothes with neatness and in good
the two measures, that the reader may be taste ;
they are not only the most difiicult to

enabled to look at the contrast, and the fit, but also to suit, that the cutter generally
natural result through the application of meets with. We refer to the high shoul-
the measures by the system. The following dered, short bodied, high hip-boned struc-
is the Higham measure diameter cross- : ture, whose cori)ulency is moderate in front,
wise, 5? ; lengthwise, Ql ;
shoulder meas- but very prominent behind. Among this
ure, 141 ; blade, 201 ; sye measure, lih. ;
class we have had some very talented men
eliptic, 16 ;
depth of sye on back, 10 ;
of certain peculiar characteristics ; we
natural waist, 171 full length, 20
;
breast, ;
have had three very prominent members
23a waist, 20. We will now give the
;
of the trade, of this type, and who were
measure of the Kolb coat diameter length- : all men of talent. The long bodied struc-
wise, T inches ; crosswise, 6 ; shoulder ture of this type is usually high shouldered
measure, 16 ; blade, 22| ; sye measure 15 ;
and only moderately corpulent in front.
30 [Plate XL

to solve that question when you come formed in connection with these measures,
across a customer of this kind, establish and in the case Avhere there is a liump on
jtur centre point on the top of shoulder by back, take the depth of the prominent part
a chalk mark, and from said centre point, of the hump from socket bone, and apply

applj' a measure first to the socket bone, the above measures from centre, and thus

next to the centre of diameter, or a point be able to ascertain the amount of roundness
about the same distance down, established to give to shoulder and back seam. We
on back, and also to the bottom of sye on give above the name, of this class of
back these measures should be applied
;
structures as deformities instead of misfits,
from the centre point as model, first to the as we do not intend there will be auj of
bottom of sye on back, I extra should be the latter, and it displays the artistic abil-
added next to the point at centre, and h ity of the cutter to be enabled lo neutral-

inch should be added next to the socket ize the strong points of the former so as

bone, and h inch should be added the

8, ;
not to appear conspicuous.
back and shoulder should be rounded and

I
 -pia,t^ n ^y

3(P-2
 Description of Plate XII.

J'^^IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 are the diagrams top ; mark down from at top 2'i, 23, 30 i ;

^
of a Garrick or Inverness cape. There s(|uare these lines across ;
mark inside at
arc two different styles of cloak represented top, 43 ; second line, 11 ; 33 inside, and
on Figure 2, the one with sleeve and tlie 11 outside ;
third line, 23 inside, and 11
other without : the one without is fornied by outside mark up from 11, 2 inches, and
;

tlie Figures 11, 82 to I62, and is laid down form the shoulder fi'om lA to 2, liy fore-
to be drafted by the scale corresponding part then draw straight line from 2 to
;

with the breast measure taken over the I3 sweep from SOi to 23, by 3 tlio dis-
;

vest, the extra allowance being given in the tance from to 4.3 and from 23 to 30 3 by :

diagram ; and in case some of our readers 43 and form front as model.
;

may not know how to use the scale, we To Draft Sleeve, Figure 3. Draw con-
will select scale 18, and proceed to draft struction line from to 27, square in top ;

this garment. To draft back, Figure mark down from 0, 11, 5, 14, 20, 27, square
1, draw back line from to 38, square in tliese lines across ; mark on top line, 5,
top ;
mark down from by the scale, S, 101 ;
second line, 10, 11 ;
fourth line, 11,
5, 10, 37, 38, s(|uare these lines across ;
12 ; bottom, 7 ; draw line from 101 to 11;
mark on top line, 3 ; second line, 8s ; third and from 11 to 7 ; and form the outside of
line, IOt ;
bottom, loi ;
draw dotted line sleeve by 11, 12, 7; and forearm by 5, 1,
from IOt to 13^ and form top of back ; 26 ;
bottom from 26 to 7 ; sleeve-head by
from H to 3 ;
and
shoulder from 3 to 8g ;
11 ; 5 at top to 5 at forearm, and under-
side by 101 to 13i bottom from 38 to ;
side as model. The collar is drafted the
13i. To draft forepart, Figure 2, draw same way, and a larger or smaller scale,
construction line from to 37 mark ;
gives a larger or smaller pattern. The
down from 0, II, 21, 3|, Gl, 7, 11, 121, 26, line running up from front of syc on shoul-
30, 37 ;
square these lines across ;
mark der to 11 ;
and also from bottom of sye to
inside, on top line, 43 ; second line, 13! ; side at ICl, is indicating a Garrick without
third lino, 11 and ISl inside, and 11 out- sleeve ;
these points need not be added on
side ; fourth line, 15 ;
fifth line, 83, 141 ; in such case. To join it together, the
sixth line, 82 ;
14? inside, and 2 outside ; point 131 and 131 should be joined to the
seventh line is depth of pocket flap; eighth point 141 and lo ; and then the sleeve
line, 21 2 inside, and 2 outside ; draw lines should be jnit in ;
then the cape. Figure 3,
from 4j to 131, and from lo to 21 3 ;
draw should be baisted on along the neck-gorge
the short lines from 131 to 131, and from and down the side ;
and then the back,
141 to 15 respectively, and curve shoulder Figure 1, should be joined to that of fore-
j)oint out to 181 then form sj'e by 131, ; part, 3 on back to point lA on shoulder,
83 in front and 83 at bottom, to 141 at sewing the three pieces together as far
side ; nuTrk neck-gorge from 4-3 b}^ 21 to down the side as the cape goes, and the
It, and front and bottom as model. back and forepart to the bottom. The
step of cape is cut 3 inch -narrower than
To Draft Capk, Ficl're 3. Draw con- forepart, and when there is a iiyput in
slruclion line from to 30-2, square in front, it should be in the cape.
 Description of Plate XIII.

^tllLATE XIII. represents what is geiic- and 201, and square out the line from lOl
1l1 rally known as the King Williani to 7, or elbow, then draw lines from lit
* Cloak, with sleeves. This cloak, we to I83 and from lih to 30g, sweep from
believe, is correct in all its points ;
a slight 20 to 30 8 by ''
mark at 3s, and form bot-
curve might be given to front. The back, tom of sleeve from 301 to 34:1 to 201,
forepart, and collar are drafted in the usual then form back arm seam from 9'l by 11,
wny by the scale (which we have described I82 and back arm from 16s b}' 7
to 30s,
on Plate XII., on Inverness Cape), cor- to 201, and sleeve head from 91 hy 10, 31,

responding with the breast measure taken 81, 8b, 12, IGs, and draw forearm from
over the vest, the extra allowance being 8s to 341. In putting this cloak togellier
given in the diagram. To draft the it will be seen that the cape must be basted
cape and sleeve, draw construction line on the back and joined to the shoulder of
from to 29, mark down fi'om the num- forepart,and then the sleeve-head from
bers on said line, draw the line 2?, and 8s on forepart to 91 on back, which is the
mark the numbers 7, 10, 13.1, and square same point. The underside sleeve is

up to 3s, line from 4^ to 91,

then draw fastened to the lining by means of a bind-
and also from 6 to 11, I62, ITi, ISs,- and ing. It should have a fly down the front,
draw the lines on the square by said num- and the edges should be fini.shed with a
bers, first to 81, IGg, next 81, next 12, wide silk braid.
IGs ;
draw line on scpiare from 83 to lOl
 riuic /'/

161 16-
FUUe /4
 33

Description of Plate XIV.

J,
^^IS Plate represents a King William glance how the cloak is put together. The
I

il'l ; (Hoak witlaout sleeves. It is cut cape. Figure 1, is basted on the back, Fig-
single-breasted, has a fly clown the ure 4, the shoulders joining to that of fore-
front, and is intended to button close up part, and the sleeve-head, or wing, sewed
to the neck. When a roll of breast is in- into the sye and drawn down the side as
tended, an addition should be given to the far as it goes; the point, II3 on back,

front. This garment is much worn b}'- should join the point 13? on forepart, and
many for travelling purposes, and is a very also the notcli at side of back to notch at
handy garment for business men in going side of back to notch at 15 i on side of fore-
to and from their business. It is drafted part. It closes with a fly down the front

in the usual way, by the scale correspond- as represented ; the hollowed part of col-

ing with the breast measure taken over lar is sewed to the neck-gorge, but before
the vest, the extra allowance being given sewing to, it should be stretched and the
in the diagram. The reader will see at a crease shrunken in.
34

Description of Plate XV.

^jgOW to draft half circular cloak, draw measure of neck, which would L-e 10 or IO2,
iJJjHJ] line from 8 on top to 42 at bottom ;
and usually divides the neck equally in
'

mark down from 8 to 0, 8 inches or the three parts, or three quarter circular, and
width of neck, square in top or front of draw front line from 4 b}' 2 to 4O2, curve
cloak. For taking the fish out of neclc, sweep from 42 to 432 l\y 1,
front as model,
square inside from and raise up
to 82, 1 and from 432 to 432 by 4, and from 432
inch, same as back of King William then : to 41 by 2 the collar, Figure 2, is adapted
:

draw line of shoulder to bottom at 44 by to either of these cloaks.

4, or 5 neck then mark down from 0. 51

;
Figure 4 is the diagram of a Russian
and square out to lOj then mark 4 inches;
Hood, which may be worn with any over
down on front and 10, draw line from 4 in garment. It is drafted by the scale cor-
front b}' 62 to 10 down on shoulder, and responding witli the breast measure from
then form curve of shoulder from 62 to 101 ;
the line of construction, which runs from
sweep front of neck from 5 2 to 10 by 4 in to 241 ;
square in top to lOi, and estab-
front, and bottom from 42 to 44 by 4 on lish all theother points bj- the scale and
top, and from 44 to 41 b}^ 62 then add 1 ; the numbers on the diagram, and form as
inch for step in front, as represented by model. To put the bood together, seam
dotted line. The scale can also be used up the cuts on the neck first from 7-3 to ;

for this cloak. 24 T is on the crease then seam it along

;

How to draft three quarter circular the bottom and open up the crease, and
cloak, Figure 3 draw back line from 4 to place the number 16 on 72 put a binding ;

42, and square in top from 4 to 432; from an inch wide around the neck-gorge, so as
to 4 is half the neck measure, square in- to contain holes tobutton under the stand-
side from 0, 82 inches, mark 1 inch up and up of the collar. The part from IO2 to 10
sweep the neck from 0, 1, 2 by 4 ;
straight- should have a large turn in, so as to allow
en the curve 2 inch down at front, then of a small ribbon or a piece of India-rub-
measure the length of neck-gorge, which ber to run through it, to confine it inclose

should be 2 or 2\ inches more than tight to the neck or for use when required.
 Flute /5

"I-ik 42
Plate 1G
 Description of Plate XVI.
J^T'IGURES 1, 2, 3, 4, with 9 on plate
XVn. are the diagrams of a militaiy
^ cloak or coat. It should be of dark blue
cloth, and closed by means of four frog but-
tons of black silk, and also i loops of black
silk cord down the front, as represented on
diagram, and at the throat b}- a long loop
(/ Exhille, without tassel or plait, on the
left side, and a black silk frog button on
the right the cord for the loops should be
;
fifteen hundredths of an inch in diameter,
the back is without seam, but is cut up
from 15 to 17 inches, in proportion to the
length, and a fly set in with 7 buttons and
holes collar of the same color and mate-
; those of the scale.
rial as the coat the edges should be
; military cloak by showing how to draft cape
slightly off, and should be made
rounded
to either stand or fall, and when standing,
to be about 5 inches wide, sleeve loose,
of a single piece, and round at the bottom,
without cuft' or vent the linings should be
; inches
of woolen. There should be a black silk
braid about half inch wide sewed flat on
the edges, and also the pockets and
around each frog button on the breast a
knot two and one quarter inches diameter,
of black silk cord, seven hundredths of
an inch in diameter, arranged in accord-
ance with the drawing on diagram. The
cape is of the same color and material, and
can be removed at the pleasure of the
wearer, and should reach to the bottom of
sleeve when the arm is extended the
length of the cloak should be from G to 8
inches below the knee, or in proportion to
height, to indicate the rank there will be
on both sleeves, near the lower edge, a
knot of flat black silk braid, not exceeding
8 of an inch in width, arranged to corres-
pond with the drawing, and composed as
follows : the knee.
For a General of five braids,
knot.
For a Colonel of
five
knot.
MILITARY
For a Lieutexant-Colonel of four
braids, single knot.
For a Ma.tor of three braids, single
knot.
For a Captain of two singlebraids,
knot.
For a First Lieutenant of one braid,
single knot.
For a Second Lieutenant and Brevet
Second Lieutenant a plain sleeve, with-
out knot or ornament.
This cloak is drafted in the usual way
from the line of construction b}' the num-
bers on the diagram, corresponding with
We
will now finish
in plate XVIIL Lay back and forepart
in a joining position at shoulder, then mark
around the neck and down the back the
length you wish to cut the cape, say 31
;
then give it the same shape as
front of forepart it should be a little fuller,
;
it having to fit over the cloak carry out
;
;
shoulder line to bottom of cape, give it
li more over shoulder than behind, and
1 less in front than behind, and sweep
the bottom from 38 to 15 by 44, and from
15 to 322 by U, and from 322 to oOi by
3. This cape can also be drafted by the
scale. The ornament on sleeve, with three
braids, should be carried along the bottom
of underside, as represented.
;
For all other officers, dark blue close
fitting double-breasted surtout coat, with
a
cape made to detach from the coat, and fall
; to the tips of the fingers, when the arm
and hand are extended, the skirt of the
coat for mounted officers to reach half way
between the knee and the sole of the foot.
For dismounted officers, three inches below
This coat should have 7 buttons
double on each breast, of the same pattern as
those on the uniform coat the insio-nia of
;
braids, single rank are the same as the cloak.
36

Description of Plate XVII.

COATS FULL DllESS. eight buttons in each row, on the breast,

placed by pairs.
For Officers.^ All officers shall wear For a Colonel, Lieutenant Colonel,
a double-breasted frock coat of dark blue
AND Major. The same as for a general,
cloth, the skirt to extend from one half to except that there will be nine buttons in
three fourths the distance from the hip each row on the breast, placed at equal
joint to the bend of the knee. distances collars and cuffs of the same
;

For a General. Two rows of but- color and material as the coat. The upper
tons on the breast, twelve in each row, half of the cuffs to be ornamented with
placed by fours, the distance between each three double stripes of gold braid running
row five and one half inches at top, and the length of the cuff, pointed at their
three and one half inches at bottom ;
stand upper ends, and with a small button below
up collar, not less than one nor more than the point of each stripe, according to pat-
two inches in hook in front at
height, to tern.
the bottom, and slope thence up and back- For a Captain, 1st Lieutenant, 2nd
ward at an angle of thirty degrees on each Lieutenant, and an additional 2nd
side, corners rounded cuffs three inches
;
Lieutenant. The same as for a colonel,
deep, to go around the sleeves parallel with except that there will be seven buttons in
the lower edge, and with three small but- each row on the breast, and two stripes
tons at the under seam pockets in the; on the cuffs.
folds of the skirt, with two buttons at the For all Storekeepers. A single-
hips and one at the lower end of each side- breasted coat, as lately Avorn by captains
edge, making four buttons on the back and of the staff, with staff shoulder-straps to
skirt of the coat collar and cuffs to be of
;
indicate rank.
dark blue velvet lining of the coat black.
;

This coat shall be worn on all dress oc-

For a Lieuten-ant General. The casions, such as reviews, inspections, dress
same as for a general, except that there parades, guards, and courts-martial. It
will be ten buttons in each row on the will be habitually worn at battalion drills,
breast, the upper and the lower groups by except in hot weather, or when otherwise
threes, and the middle groups by fours. exceptionally directed by the commanding
For a Major General. The same as officer.

for a general, except that there will be Figures 1, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, on Plate XVII.

nine buttons in each row on the breast, are the diagrams ot single and double-
I^laced by threes. breasted military coat, and are drafted b}^

For a Brigadier General. The same the system to the following measure : di-

as for a general, except that there will be ameter lengthwise, 5t ; crosswise, 4t ;

J'ir-'
Plate XVII.'] 37

shoulder, 121; blade, 171; sye, II5; clip- The shoulder

straps will always be worn
tic, 131 depth of sye on back, 8 s
; nat- ;
with Black braid binding, i of an inch
it.

ural waist, 171 full length, 19 to bottom

; ; wide, around edge of coat.
of skirt, 36 ; breast, 18 ;
waist, 10 ;
collar, For Storekeepers. Of pattern above
8. These coats arc drafted the same as described, but wilhout braid.
dress frock, with the following exception : For Chaplain. Plain black frock coat,
The length of breast should be taken from with standing collar ;
one row of nine black
the nape of neck, and when the thumb is buttons up the breast, with "herring
on the measure at front of waist, the meas- bone " of black braid around tiie buttons
ure should be carried up to the extreme and button-holes.
point of neck-bone and, in the application;

of this measure, 2 inch more should be

FATiaUE SACK.
added for the drawing in of front. In sin- On Figures 2, 4 and 10 we give the back,
gle breast there should be 1 incli added to forepart and collar for a fatigue sack. We
front, and should be fulled on, and facings have not given the sleeve as we had not
kept tight and well wadded, which will re- room for it, but a full description of it is

quire the extra inch. The Frock Coats given, as also the mode of trimming, and

are adopted in most all cases of militarj^ or the reader can draft the sleeve by the

navy, the difference consisting chiefly of measure, according to the sj'stem. This
trimming. The single-breasted frock is sack is close-fitting, and is drafted by the

but little worn, except by The

militia. system in the usual way, excepting where
skirts of military coats should have more it islaid out to be cut down all the way

draper}' than citizens, and therefore hol- under the arm to bottom for spring, and
lowed a little more at waist, and given a to give ease over the loins. The breast is
little more spring beliind. cut full, to be wadded in military style, in
material which requires it. Figure 2 is the

COATS UNDRESS. collar, and is adapted for buttoning close

For Officers (for fatigue ^

inarches, up to the neck.

squad and company drills, and other drills,

when authorized bj^ the commanding offi-

TROWSERS.
cer,and for ordinary wear.) A sack coat For General Officers, Otiicers of the

of dark blue cloth or serge fiilling collar ;

General Staff and Staff Corps. Dark blue
;

cloth, plain, without stripe, welt or cord.

single breasted, with five buttons in front

same as those Avorii on the dress coat For all Regimental Officers of Cav-

;

with black braid 1 of an inch wide, extend- alry, Artillery and Infantry. Light
ing from each button and button-hole back blue cloth, same shade of color as pre-
six inches, and terminating in "herring scribed for enlisted men, with stripe 1^
bone" loops. inches wide, welted at the edges ; color,

The skirt to extend from ^ to the dis- that of facings of their respective arms,
tance from the hip joint to the bend of the except infantry, whicli will be dark blue.
knee ;
and to be slashed at the hip on each Storekeepers. Dark blue cloth, with
side ; a knot of black braid, 1 of an inch black stripe, Ih inches wide.
wide, on the upper part of the cuffs, ac- For Chaplains. Plain black.
cording to pattern.


Description of Juvenile Plate.

18 are the diagrams from 4, G3, 72 square up from 63 to 7

y-U^IGURES 2, 3, 4, ; ;

cutaway jacket, laid out to

of a little
mark inside at elbow, 8 ; and at bottom,
a breast measure of 24, but any size 53 ; form sleeve-head from I down from
81, 41, 4, 2i, to 7 and the rest of the
may be cut by our graduating scales, by ;

selecting the scale corresponding with the

sleeve by the numbers indicated on the

measure. We will now proceed diagram, and finish sleeve by forming the
breast
and show how to draft this diagram as a ornament representing a cuff, which is
criterion by which to draft all the others.
done b}^ a tracing braid. And also form
the ornament represented on back and
How TO Draft Back, Fiuure 4. Draw forepart, with the little plait at bottom with
construction line from to 20t, square in
3 buttons. The collar, 18, is drafted in
top ;
mark down from 0, 4, 6h, 8, loi,
the same way. The little vest. Figure 1,
201, square these lines across mark on
is an accompaniment of the jacket,- and is
;

top line, 2t, and up for spring I mark

drafted in__the way we have been describ-
;

on top of pitch, 81 middle of pitch, 7i

ing, and trimmed as represented by the
; ;

bottom, Ih inside at waist, 6| bottom,

; ;
tracing braid. Figures 8 and IG arc the
Gi hollow the back about 2 iuch, as
;
little breeches accompanjing this "suit, the
model. Form top from to I shoulder ;
trimming of whicli is in accord with that of
from T to 81 pitch from 8? by 7 5 to 7^
;
;
the jacket, the points of which the reader
side from 7 3 to Gi, at plait and bottom.
will see at a glance. These breeches are
Description of Forepart, Figure 3. drafted in the way we have already de-
Draw construction line from at top to scribed, from the line of construction, by
21 3 at bottom mark down from at top, ;
the scale corresponding with the breast
21, 31, 81, 9i, 16t, 21 2, square these lines measure and the numbers on the diagram.
across, inside and outside mark outside ;
These breeches arc suited to any of the
from 2s, 51 next from 91-61 next from
; ;
other jackets on the plate the trimming ;

16141 ;
outside from 3l-6g outside from ;
may be omitted or another pattern substi-
8l-l'l, and ^5^ ;
outside at waist, 63 ;
at tuted in accord with that of the jacket.
bottom, 73. Form shoulder from toGi ;
On Figures 5, G, 7, we have another
side from 63 by 63 to 7^ ;
sye from Gs by style of suit, which is a Highland costume.
11 to 53 ;
neck-gorge from to 51 ;
and Tlie sleeve and collar. Figures 2 and 18,
front from 51 by 61, 41, 21^ and 73. are adapted for this jacket also. This
How TO Draft Sleeve, Figure 2. jacket is of the Derby style ;
the line of

Draw construction line from to 18, 4, construction of forepart runs from the

10, 17-3 ; square these lines across; mark point of shoulder, and it has a little] false

outside from at top, 41, 81 outside at ;

vest attached, which is fastened to the

elbow, 81 ;
at bottom, 53 ;
mark inside linings inside. It has openings at side
Juvenile Platk] 39

and beliiiul, fonning three cufves: it fastens of a loose over sack or blouse, for a child;
willi a little tal) at the neck. This jacket it has an ornament at side of back, and

is drafted in the same way we have de- also on llap and at sleeve hand, with 3
scribed the other. We will describe the buttons ;
the collar,
20, is also adapted to
way Figure 5. Draw front
to draft skirt, th s blouse. It is single breasted and but-
from and draw line on the square
to 14, tons u|) the front either with fly or without.
to 2\h and 2ti, with inches added for :> The band, Figure 82, is also adapted to
the plaits running from 5 at top to 14 at
?) this blouse ;
it is drafted in the usual way.
l)ottom then square up from 21 2 to 5
;
;
Figures 10, 17, 21, 22, 23, are the dia-
draw line of waist from to 5; and hollow grams of a diagonal blouse. Figure 17 is
top to 11 inches, then draw the line of the back, and is drafted in the usual way ;

l)lait from 5 to 14 by 2lh, and add the 3 Figure 21 is the forepart, and should be
inches outside, and form the plaits as drafted as laid down in diagram, the con-
model and form l)Ottoin according to the
;
struction line in centre, the points outside,
same curve as the waist. There should be not only indicating the blouse, but also the
a band ] 1 inches in width, sewed on to the diagonal line where it joins after the ;

waist, with holes worked in it to fasten to forepart is drafted and the diagonal (ipcn-
the waistband of Knickerbockers, which is iiig marked, the pattern should be cut
worn underneath. The Knickerbockers around the diagonal line, and enough of
are in plate XXIIl, and are drafted by the material added lo the underpart to run
scale corresponding with the hip measure. IVdui 2t on point of shoulder in a straight
On Figures 11, 12, 15, with sleeve 2, direction to lap about 2 inches at 13i at
we have a very neat style of Derby jacket. bottom'; the upper part of shoulder is

This jacket has a plait behind and at side, formed with three points, where it laps un-
it lias a little curved lapel, and fastens derside, and is fastened on shoulder with
with a tab underneath the lapel. The three buttons and holes, and down the
pockets are at waist, covered with tlaps : front with 12. Figure 10 is the sleeve, and
the vest adapted to this jacket should close Figure 22 is the belt which is just half the

higher than Figure 1. Some of these jack- size,and should be fastened around the
ets are ornamented with a tracing braid middle at waist. Figure 23 is the collar,
around the edge ; this jacket is drafted in and is designed to lit close around the
tiie same waj' we have already described. shoulder. This blouse should be trimmed
The little pants. Figure 8, are adapted to all around with two rows of braid Ih inches
this jacket. from the edge, and h inch apart, interlined
Figures 9, 13, 14, ID, are the diagrams with one row of tracing braid.
 ;;

40

Description of Plate XIX.

JlpGURES ], 2, 5, 8, 9 and 11 are the 22, 3 inches, or l-iith, and draw bottom of
^^J| diagrams of the Ibreparts of seven vest from 9 to 19 ;. form your sideseam
different styles of vests to the same from let it be well
9 bj' 1 at natural waist ;

back, figure 7. sprung below natural waist, as model ;

We will illustrate the maimer of draft- mark the width of top of shoulder about
ing by figures 7 and which is a dress iik inches, and form j^our sye as model
8, ;

vest, with low roll of breast. The meas- draw dotted line from 3 at top to II at
ures should be taken for length of vest from front of breast, or the length of opening,

socket bone behind down to the length that according to measure and form the neck-;

the vest should be opened, then the full gorge as model and take out
; as repre- V
length of front, next breast and waist sented on forepart. As this vest is design-
measure. We will suppose the following ed to open well on the breast, we cut the
measure : length of opening, 16 inches sewing to part of collar, or stand up, rather
full length, 25 inches ;
breast, 18 ;
waist, straight ; and the sewing, too, should be
IG. Draw construction line from to 22, kept a little tight along towards, the front,
Sfjuare in top, mark along top h breast meas- so that when the vest is lini.shed, the crease

ure, which is 9 inches, then divide that in will be hollow, something resembling the
13 [)arts, or 1-6 and h respectively; then neck-gorge. These vests can be drafted as
mark down from 0, li inches or l-12t]i well b}^ the scale as by divisions of the
breast measure, and to 6 one-third, and 9 breast measure ; and we should prefer the
one-half, and to 17 3 the length of natural use of the scale, as in the larger sizes it

waist, and when you have not got the (the scale) will curtail the size of the vest

natural waist, appl}' half the breast 3 inch to the dimensions required, and it is more
less, then apply your measure length of convenient. But at the waist, the real
vest from 6, or point of shoulder at top ;
measure should be applied, so as to give it
supposing width of top of back, 3 inches or sufficientwidth at this part, no matter how
1-6 ; lay the 3 on 6 and apply length of small the waist measure may be. the front
breast down to 9 at bottom, with | of inch of vest should never be brought inside of
added for making up then square these ;
the point 9 at bottom, but the extra mate-
lines across then mark in from natural
;
rial should be taken out as V this is ;

waist 1 inch ;
apply half j'oiir waist meas- found necessary to prevent the vest raising
ure from said inch to front, with li inches up in front. In cases where the scale is
in front at natural waist added. 1 inch used for cutting a garment for a tall and
for making and A inch for V
up, to UH, slim man, a scale a size larger should be
and 9 at bottom mark 1| inches
in front
;
used for the lengths than for widths and ;

draw line of shoulder from 6 to Ih then ;

if drafted by divisions, the bottom of sye
apply your measure down to the length of and natural waist should be lengthened in
opening on breast, say 18 then draw your ;
proportion to the length required. Figure
front by the It you have established by 1 is clerical or English style of vest, and
li to 9 at bottom then mark up from; is drafted in the same manner as Figure 8,
 Viate /9

"f
-3 .

15 lit
Plate XIX.] 41

with the following exception : that.') gfad- at 2-2, 3, It, respectively, and the front of
uale'd inches, or i-(3th, is marked down vest .should be formed by those points; the
fVoni to locate the fVout of neck-gorii-o, collar should be cut square. Figure 9 is a
and there is 1 inch added in front of line double-breasted vest of the shawl form. The
at neck to 10, and 2 inches at front of diagram indicates the points of difference
breast to 11. At this point we vary from from the single breast ; in front of breast

It 2t in i)roportiou to the chest of the

to there is I'l inches more for single breast,
customer the collar should be cut to lit
;
and It added at top for the double
is

the gorge, according to model. breast, making in all 3i and at Ijottoni ;

In this diagram we also represent a vest It is added for the double and front of ;

breast is formed in accordance with these

of the straight form, without collar, which is
points the collar should be fitted to the
usualljcalled the French style of vest. The ;

neck as represented on Figures 8 and 10.

reader will at a glance see the points of tkis Figures 10 and 13 are the diagrams of
vest. There is a little collar behind, repre- a corpulent man's vest, and is drafted in
sented by the long curved piece, which is the same way as Figure 8, only the roll of
designed to give spring to this part of the breast being much higher. It is di'afted

to a breast measure of 24, waist 26, length

neck gorge; the points of front of breast are
3O3. At natural waist, where it is mark-
indicated bj^ the numbers on the diagram,
ed 1 inch into sideseam, this point in vests
marked 11 behind, and I0?r in front. How should be marked 1 graduated inch, and
to draft back, Figure 4 draw construction
:
the waist measure should be applied from
line from to 20h, square in top mark ; sideseam to Ibh at front, with 1 inch add-
down from lOl inches, which should be
0, ed, there being no V recpiired in such

from 1 to li inches more than from to !)

vests, no allowance is made for it the ;

front of breast on line at bottom of sye

at bottom of sye on forepart, one inch for
is placed at 31 to 14.^; and the front of
the fair proportioned, and one and a half
breast is formed in accordance with these
for the stooping ;
mark on top 3 inches, or points. The back. Figure 13, is drafted
1-6 for width of top of back, and then 9, or in the same way as Figure 7, excepting
half breast ; then draw line from 9 to bot- the additional width at'waist required by
tom on the square ;
mark down said line 4 the measure.
Figures 6, 7, 11, are the diagrams of a
inches, or I breast measure, less half inch ;
single-breasted vest. Either of the collars
this should be raised up or down in pro-
Figures 6 or 12, are suited to this forepart,
portion to high or low shoulders, then mark and represent two different styles of vest,
inside at bottom of sye, 1 inch, for making a collar of the shawl form, as represent-
up, to 10, and give I5 inches at bottom, ed on Figure 12, would give one style, or
over half waist ; mark length of side of high-roll of the shawl form the other a ;

pointed lapel the collars are drafted with

back by
;
that of forepart raise spring of
the scale, -as the entire vest may also be.
;

top I from and form back as model.

3,
Figure 5 is the diagram of a double-breast-
ed vest, and is drafted in the same wa}',
with the following exceptions
of i^ck-gorge in front
placing the line 3 inches or l-6thfrom top,
the front of breast is placed at 1 inch and
Ig, I3 and 93 at bottom, respectivel}', but
may be diminished in proportion to the
size of chest, the width of lapel is placed
Ou Figure 5 we have another style of
double-breasted vest, which is formed by
the buttons running to a point at bottom,
: the point in the shape of a Y, about 21 inches up
is established by from bottom, and leaving an opening at
bottom when buttoned, of 2 inches. The
collars. Figures 4 and 12, are adapted to
either of these vests, and thus producing
either a vest of the pointed lapel form on
the one hand, or the shawl form on the
other, bv the change of collar.


42

Description of Plate XX.

JMGrURE 1 is a diagram rei^resenting or full length ; there should be 1 inch

measurement of pantaloons. How
the added for making up, then mark up from
to take measure Put the top of
: bottom 32 inches with i inch added, or leg
your measure in at the hollow of Avaist seam, to 10, which makes line of fork, square
above the hip bones, and apply the meas- mark outside on this line
those lines across,
ure down to knee, which we will suppose from 10, 93 inches, or half hip measure,
23^ inches, then bottom of side 42
to then mark inside from 10, the hip meas-
inches, we measure of leg
will then lake ure, which is 2i, which we have marked

by putting measure close up into fork (un- on diagram 23, and also 1-G to 3s, then
less you use an instrument for the purpose), divide the distance from 10 to 23, which
and then apply the measure right down is 11, then divide -the 11 which is t, and

the side to what you think is the proper draw line from the g to top, then add the 31,
length, bring the measure also to the up- and half hip measure, 9^ and 3s together,
per part of foot, which is usually a good making 121, then mark in from 92 at side
criterion to judge of the proper length, say one half of the 121 or 61 and also 3 the ;

32 inches, then apply waist measure around width of upper side at bottom marked 21,
at the hollow of waist, and hip measure at which is 31, I inside to 21 or 3f, and draw
the most prominent part of hips. (In cor- centre line from 21 at bottom by 61, then
pulent men we take three measures, waist mark outside from at top half waist 8
and one at the most prominent part of inches and half hip 93, mark outside from
stomach, and one at the hips.) "We will sup- centre at knee 41 inches, and inside of con-
pose the waist and hip measure respectively struction line 1 inch or 4 from centre ; then
16 inches and 19. In tight pants we take mark width of upper side at bottom, 31
the thigh measure, dress and undress, and inches on either side of centre, draw line
give the proper allowance for making up, from 11 at fork to 42 at bottom, then mark
say, dress side llh, undress 11, knee 83, the curves of upper side at fork to 23 and
bottom 83 or according to fashion, eliptic, 3 s and side from 8 by 93
as represented,
which should be taken on dress side from ; 41 to 63, and bottom as model, then drop
the exact point you started for side seam, the line down 3 inch from at top, which
draw the measure right through the fork is required in small waists, and finish up-
and right over hip to the same point you per side.
started, say 332, and allow 11 inches in its How to draft under side. Figure^.
application,, 341. Lay on upper side as Figure 2, mark line
We will now commence and draft Figure of top out t,o 10, and line of fork to 41, to
2. How to draft upper side : Draw con- 41 is 1 of hip from construction line at 10,
struction line from to 42, square in top, then sweep from 8 to 31 by 2^ at fork ;

then mark down from 0, 23 A inches, and 42 mark inside at knee from construction line
 I'lcxlc ','(>

/^^>< ' ^
/ ,1=2
/ '' '^
Plate XX.]

2 inches or 5 from centre, and outside 3t to lOi, and also apply the seat measure
or 81 added to width of upper side Si and eliptic as we have described in Fig. 1,
making width knee 17 inches, mark in-
at and form _your under side by the measures.
side at bottom from 42 2 1 and outside 8?, We recommend dropping the under side
amounting to lOl, and one half on each below the line of fork about k inch, as
side from centre line^ 101 added to 71 of represented in Fig. 1, and stretched to that
upperside, making in all 18 inches then ;
amount to make the pants sit clear of any
applj^ waist measure from to 8 and from creases at this point. AVe have drawn the
31 to 10 at side ;
take out V of 3 inch, and line of seat I of an inch inside of centre

thus allow H inches

making up for ; appl}^ line behind and advanced the point of side

hip measure from where the line of seat to lOi the object of this is twofold, namely,
;

crosses front across to side, allowing from to take away all creases that might exist

21 to 2i inches for making up as to IO3 ;

under the seat behind and also to take out
and then form top and side as model draw ;
the surplus material and avoid having too
scat line from 2^ at fork to 3t at top and much round at the side.
form your underside out to 4f and leg from ,
Figure 5 represents a man with small
41 by 2 to 21 at bottom, and form bottom hips. The eliptic is small, being at 32^,
according to model. and thus throwing the line of seat well
Figure 3 is drafted in the same way we back. Men of this build are flat behind,
have described, excepting the side, which and round at side, having very prominent
represents a side stripe. In such cases loin bones, which requires a good deal of
allow 1 inch to be taken out as V from 71 round on this part of pants. These pants
to side stripe at 9, and allow 1 inch to 9, are drafted to the following measure
and give 1 inch additional width to upper waist 15, hip 18, knee 82, bottom 81, side 40,
side at bottom draw your side seam with
;
leg 30 ;
these pants are cut wider at knee
a straight line from 9 to 71 at bottom, then than the others in proportion. There is

wdiatever you have taken off from upper nothing more in these panis calling for com-
side at 81 should be added to under side ment different from that we have given.
44

Description of Plate XXI.

better a(la])ted to those pants. It should

JICxURE 1 is I ho (lingram of a corpii-
also be raised I as much ad-
pot-bellied at top as it is
^ lent man's pants of tlie
vanced in front, and is therefore advanced
form, or one who has his corpnlency pretty
2, and raised lA the top we curve a lit-
well developed in front; which is generally ;

tleand have it confined in a little for making

indicated by the appearance, but always
up, so as to straighten it, as the prominent
discovered more essentially by the appli-
part of the thickness or roundness of
cation of the eliptic measure, which is al-

build which carries his stomach is usually about 3 inches lower

ways more in the

thickness all around, than that of the pot- down, which we have given 21, marked on
The waist and hip is diagram, and thus throw the fullness to
bellied structure.
put down at the same figure, 24 inches this part ; and in forming the front, we
bottom 10, side 44, leg 31.
curve so as to give more width about
it
each ; knee 11,
perceive that our engraver has sub- 3 inches down, and carry it gradual!}' into
(We
stituted the letter R for that of K in all a hollow towards the fork. Indeed, we
meant would advise taking a second measure here,
these diagrams, which was to indi-
We lay down as a prin- in extreme cases, three inches below the
cate the knee.) it

measurement of pants that in waist, and if found to be 3 inch wider to

ciple in the
the proportionate structure there is always
add said i inch to the round of front 3
inches below. In these jiants tlie eliptic
found a difference of 3 inches between
measure is applied, and 1 inches added,
waist and hip, thus IG and 19 are supposed
1

to be a medium fair proportioned struc- establishing the point at 161, and making
we suppose at the width of top 131 inches, including the
ture ;
i stout builds will it

2 inches, and when the waist is large in 1 inch behind, from 31. But the question

proportion to the hips, as in the present may be asked, if the eliptic measure is es-

case, we have laid it down as a maxim, sential and suppose it to bo correctly

?

and it is found to be generally correct in taken, how could it apply in establishing

practice, to give two parts of the extra the corpulenc}^ correctly in front ? The
material to the front and the other to the answer is : the eliptic measure being short

.side. In the ])rcsent measure, according at 161, in proportion to the waist measure,

to this princii)le, the waist is 2 inches this shortness proves that the stoutness must
larger than fair proportion, which would go to the front, -where the eliptic does not
require If inches given to the front, and the appl3^ And observation going to confirm
balance behind ;
but there are exceptions this opinion, it is found to be a safe rule of
to most of rules, and in the application of practice. The other portions of tlieso
eliptic measure we discovered that the extra pants are drafted the same way we have
material should all l)e in front, and was much explained elsewhere.
 J'lalf^ ^/

: ^

r-^-_
Plate XXL] 45

Figure 2 is a corpulent man's pants, and slit and made up 2 inch in width, with a
arc cut full falls. The measure is similar fall underneath to button in front.
l)earer
to that of Figure 1; the length of side is At the bottom half the width of knee is
42 ;
leg 30; waist 24; hip 24 ;
knee 11 ;
given each way from the centre 23-5 is ;

bottom 10; the width of top to 12.3 with 1 the knee, and 2T-j is the bottom they arc ;

behind and 12 top of front, is waist meas- gently hollowed from knee to bottom, botii
ure, with lA added for making up, They inside and outside and the upper side is
;

are drafted in the same way as the others, gently curved around the bottom, and the
excepting being raised 1| inches u[) from under side slightly hollowed. They should
15i at top, for the full falls. In these have a welt sewed on and made up about
pants there is S given to the front an^l ^i g of inch wide, and a vent about 4 inches

behind, marked Ih at front and raised 1 at long at side, with 4 buttons and holes.
top ; the underside is dropped at fork k Figure 4 is a gaiter, the length of which
inch below the line, and should be stretched is 71 inches ;
this gaiter opens down the
to that amount. In these pants there front ; the slash in front marked Figure 0,
should be I5 inches extra given at top for has the hollowed part from to 1| joined

making up, and 3 extra allowed in the ap- to front,from Gi tolOL For buttoning, it
plication of hip measure; the fall bearer should be fulled on a little at Gl it has 7 ;

should be cut to raise Ij inches higher than holes and buttons down the front. It is
fall, have a vent about 4 inches
and to drafted by the scale corresponding with
down and should be cut I inch
the side ;
the breast measure.
wider than fall, for the purpose of button- Figure 5 is another style of gaiter, and
ing in In the widths of corpulent
front. closes at the side with 5 holes ; this gaiter

men's pants all extremes should be avoid- i's 7 inches in length, It is drafted in the

ed, as that of a medium width is entirely usual wav, from the line of construction
more becoming. which runs down the centre. measure A
Figure 3 is the diagram of a pair of knee should be taken at the top, neck, and heel
breeches to the following measure : waist of the gaiter, and applied with sufficient

IG, hip 19, knee Ul, side 27^, leg llh. allowed for making up.
These breeches are cut for a waistband, Figures 7, 8, 9, is the diagram of a pair
but can be changed to full falls by adding of leggings or long gaiter. The length of

11 inches at top, as represented on Figure this legging is 17^ inches. Figure 9 is the

2 they can also be cut the old frog nwuth

;
outside and 8 the inside, 7 is the tongue.
style, by cutting a fall in from 0, about 5 The outside from 5 -4 and 41, joins the in-
. inches in length, and 2 in width at top, and side from 73-51 to Gg ;
and the tongue.
2i wide at bottom inside, from upper side, Figure 7, is joined from 2i-6b to Hi and
and to raise 1 inch higher than at top ;
4i,and to 2.

and should have a welt sewed on to the

 ;

46

Description of Plate XXII.

Qi1i%E will coniinence our description of ure to 171, and 17^ ; in half-breast measure
^Xr| this Plate Avith Lady's Habit, as it should be hollowed a from 171 to little
^^ ^ laid down by the system. 17;!; the front is only adapted to close with

Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, are tlic hooks and eyes as there are some which
;

diagrams of a lady's habit, or rather, four close with holes and buttons, I of an inch
different styles produced by four styles of extra should be added in such cases. Fig-

skirts. This habit is laid down by the sys- ure 9 is the sleeve ; it is of the tight-fitting

tem, but has the numbers placed so that it and is drafted Avith the scale by the
style,

can also be used by the scale. It is drafted numbers on the diagram or by the system.
to the following measure : diameter length- Figures 4, 5, 6, represent four different
wise 41, crosswise 31, shoulder measure adapted to the same fore-
styles of skirt

11|, blade 152, sye measure 10, eliptic 11, part. On Figure 6 is the postilion skirt,
depth of sye on back 71, natural waist 14, very narrow at front and sides, and of
full length 15, length of skirts 243 and 28 moderate length behind. On Figures 4
respectively, breast 17, waist Hi How and 5 are two different styles of skirted

to draftback draw back line from

: to habits or basques, the one rounded off and
245 the, bottom of sye and natural waist the other pointed. Figure 14 is the train

is marked in the same way as frock coat, or long skirt. We merely represent the
and the diameter lengthwise applied in the top or width in this diagram. It consists

same way there is h inch added to the

;
of 23 breadths of cloth ;
the line from G

width of back for making up, as there is downwards is the fold of the first breadth,

no seam under arm, and also in conformit}- which is sloped off 6 inches in front, grad-

with the principle that ladies' habits or uating to nothing at the seam ;
the half

basques reciuirc to be cut as wide in back breadth is placed at the right side ;
for

and shoulders as possible, we have also small sizes 2 breadths may be used instead
added k inch to the diameter of sye, as an of 23. The length is usuallj' ruled accord-

allowance for light or very heavy material ing to fashion, but as a general rule it should
the other points of the back are indicated be 15 inches and 24 behind, longer
in front

by the numbers on diagram. Figure 12 is than the skirt of a dress. It is plaited on

the forepart, and is laid out by the meas- a waist-band, which fastens by hooks and
m-eg^ the shoulder, blade, and sye measure eyes.

being applied in their respective places, Figures 1, 2, 9, 12, are the diagrams of
and the location of shoulder established by a bas((ue, which the same
is drafted to
the line depth of shoulder being placed on measure as the habit we have described,
the centre line, and the application of blade excepting the sye measure, which is h inch
measure the same as frock. In the applica- more, or IO2. This basque closes with
tion of the waist measure the fishes should hooks and eyes down the front, but. can be
be taken out in proportion to waist meas- closed with holes and buttons, by an ad-
Plate Ti .
Platr XXII.] 47

ilitional 3 inch added to front. It can be the loins, and an extra allowance as de-
drafted eitliei'bjMlic s.ystem oi- the scale scribed above applied, and spring given to
corresponding witli the breast measure. In correspond. This basque is marked 11
the forming of this basque, at waist, the at waist, but would make up 122 ;
the
measure should be applied across, as to collar 12, and sleeve 9, is suited to this

171, back included to 171 and fishes taken

;
bastjue.
out commensurate with the requirements On Figures 3, 8, 9, 10, U, are the dia-
of the waist measure an allowance of from
;
giums of a very neat style of basque, and
82 to 4 inches should be allowed for seams to the same breast measure as the others ;

.and making up, and the balance should bo it is designed to have a short roll of breast,

taken out as fishes. The spring at waisc and a step with curved fronts; it may also
under arm commences at natural waist, have a flap at waist when required. This
or I3 inches above the line, and is about diagram is laid down to be drafted b}' the
4 inches at bottom, as from 22 to GJ ; but scale, and the reader will perceive its points

a larger amount may be required, and in at a glance, and draft it by the scale cor-
order to meet this emergenc}^ a measure responding with the breast measure.
ma}" be taken over the prominent part of
 ;

48

Description of Plate XXIII.

jj?l,N Figures 1, 2, 3, 5, G, are the tlia- tliat wliich he thinks the best. How to

|)r| graias or system for cutting a shirt, draft Figure 8 : Draw construction line
T and is laid down to the following fi-oni 323 toto 20 is elbow square the
; ;

measnre: neck 151, sleeve Sis, breast 30, line across from 3 to 82 to 82 is half the ;

waist 33, length of front 35, length of back sye measure divide the sye measure in
;

37, length of bosom 8. Figure 1 is the two, to 41 then divide the 41 in two, to
;

sleeve, 2 the back, and IG the front, 5 the 28 ;

square up line to 41 at top then ;

neck band, 6 the wrist band, 7 the yoke. sweep from 41 at top by 2^ to draw ;

When cnt to measure the lengths should hair line from to 83, divide said line say

be applied by the inch tape, and the other 43 then square down the line to 3, or i
;

points by the scale corresponding with the distance from to 83, and sweep from

the breast measure this shirt is cut whole

;
41 at top to 82, by 3 draw hair line of ;

at front having a bosom inserted from 23 forearm, from 83 to 83 at bottom sweep ;

to 17, and closes behind with an opening from 323 to 82 by mark width of cuff ;

marked by a line inside, and marked about from 82 to 52 add I outside at elbow; and
;

123 inches down, and closes behind t^ith form forearm by 71, from 83 to 82 and ;

two holes and buttons. How it is joined outside from by 3,1 to 52, and underside
together the point of yoke 51 and 2 is
:
as model.
joined to shoulder at 21 and 81, and also
from % and to and 111 on back, which How Draft Sleeve, Figure 10.
TO
should be fulled on to back, the joining at Draw from
line to 2O2 to 14 is elbow ; ;

side will be understood at a glance. The square in top measure around your sye, say
back arm of sleeve at joins to back at 111 IG2 half of Avhich is 81
;
mark down from ;

the point of neckband at joins to 81 on the half of that, or 41 square said line ;

yoke all the other points of the diagram

;
across to 81, and also the line 14 estab- ;

are well defined. lish the centre of sleeve at 41, and square

Figure 4 represents a little pair of knee it up to top then measure the distance
;

breeches, full tops, which should be plaited IVom the middle ot your back pitch when
into a band like Fig. iO, plate XVIII. these;
joined to bottom of sye, say 1 inch for half
breeches are drafted from the line of con- pitch, and 21 from sidepoint to bottom of

struction by the scale corresponding with S3'e, added together, making 31 from 41 to

the seat measure. Figure 9 is a pair of 1 up at top of sleeve then form sleeve- ;

Knickerbocker breeches drafted to the fol- head from 1 by 2-41 and 2 to 81 at fore-
lowing measure waist 10, hip 19, side 32,
:
arm to 2, is half the distance to 41 from ;

leg 22 the bottom should be confined in

;
front line to 2 at top, where sleeve-liead is

\>y a piece of India rul)l)er; the points

of should touch the line draw hair line from ;

bottom are drafted by the scale, and the 8l to 81 at bottom sweep from 2G2 to 81 ;

other portions by the system as described by at top mark width of bottom to 53

; ;

on Figs. 2 and 3, plate XX. mark forearm seam I inside from line, and
OnFigures 8 and 10 we have two differ- outside at elbow I form forearm from 81 ;

ent kinds of sleeves, drafted on two differ- at top, l)y i to 81 at bottom, and backarm
from 1)}' 1 to 63, and underside as model.
ent principles, and the reader can adopt
 /*/afe 'J'i

.1 to '>a 8l> 10
 INDEX
Pages I'ages

How to iiK'asuie Plato I. 6-9 Description of two styles of c()r|iulenl men's

C'oats, of the ])Ot-belly and corpulent (all
Figure 1, depth of Proof Centre and of sye
around) structures, with two styles of the
oil back and natural waist and blade meas-
stooping structure with high siioul-
ure, with Measuring Squaie.
der Plate XI. 27-30
Figure 2, diameter lengthwise with tVutre
Description of Garrick or Inverness Cloak
Point.
with sleeve and without Plate XII. 31
Figure 3, diameter crosswise.
Descriiition of King William Cloak with
Figure I, shoulder, sye, and oliptic measures.
sleeve Plate XHI. 32
Figure H, depth of sye on back and natural
Description of King William Cloak without
waist, taken with the incli measure.
sleeve Plate XIV. 33
Figure (>, breast and waist measure.
Description of Halt and Three-CJuarter circu-
Figure 7, illustrating JNIeasuring S(|uare.
lar Cloaks Plate XV. 34
Figure 8, establishing centre all through.
Descriiition of [Military Cloak and Coats
How to draft Double-l)reasted Frock Coat and Plates XVI and XVII. 3.J-37
how to api)ly the measures. Plates H and HI 10-12
Description of children's suit dr&sses, cuta-
Single-breasted Frock, and how to draft
way jacket with short breeches, Derby
Sleeve :uid Skirt, with Dress Coat, and
jackets, <liagonal blouse, with over-sack.
showing iiow to use the system without .'
Plate XVIII. 38, 39
Measuring square Plate IV. 13-15
Description of Vests, ami how to draft
Three styles of New York Walking Coat of
Plate XIX. 40, 41
the Single ;ind Double-breasted form
'

^ Plate V. 16, 17 Description of pants, and how to measure and

draft them, tight fitting, with side stripe,
Single breasted Coat of the Register form, with
English and New York jackets.. Plate VI. 18-20 with large hips, also small hips. Plate XX. 42, 43

New York Surtout witli lapel growing, and Description of corpulent men's Pants, two

with lapel sewed on Plate VII. 21, 22 styles, with knee breeches, long gaitei's

and short Plate XXI. 44, 45

Single-breasted Sack Coat, and how to

draft Plate VIII. 23 Description of two styles of Lady's Basques

Two styles of Double-breasted Jacket with a and Habits Plate XXII. 46, 47

Reefer Plate IX. 24 Description of Shirt system with two styles

Double an<l Single-breasted Sack Over of Breeches, and two styles of Sleeves
Coats Plate X. 25, 26 Plate XXIII. 48
C 20
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