Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The E34
Factory Options
Retrofit Guide
Marcus Corbin
________________________________________________
The cover illustration shows retrofitted rear headrests at the top, and their installation in progress at the
bottom.
The E34 Factory Options
Retrofit Guide
Marcus Corbin
version 3.1
2010
E34 Factory Options Guide
If you would like to purchase this document in printed book form, visit
http://mysite.verizon.net/marcuscorbin
Table of Contents
Foreword .......................................................................................................................... vii
Introduction: What Makes the E34 Such a Special Luxury Car? ........................................ 1
Summary of the Major E34 Options ................................................................................. 11
Project Profiles ................................................................................................................. 15
1. Headlight, Fog-Light, and Intensive Washers................................................................ 17
2. Headlight-Beam Adjusters and Headlights.................................................................... 47
3. Underhood Light.......................................................................................................... 59
4. Rain-Sensing Wipers .................................................................................................... 69
5. Automatic Air Recirculating Control.............................................................................. 79
6. Autodimming Rearview Mirror ..................................................................................... 87
7. Drivers Glove Box....................................................................................................... 93
8. Steering Wheels and Column ..................................................................................... 105
9. Fire Extinguisher and First-Aid Kit .............................................................................. 117
10. Heated Seats, Front and Rear .................................................................................. 123
11. Memory Seats, Mirrors, and Steering Column .......................................................... 139
12. Adjustable Lumbar Support...................................................................................... 173
13. Moonroof ................................................................................................................. 177
14. Rear Power Outlet.................................................................................................... 181
15. Rear Door Sunshades............................................................................................... 189
16. Rear Armrest with Storage........................................................................................ 201
17. Ski Sack ................................................................................................................... 207
18. Rear Headrests......................................................................................................... 215
19. Rear Reading Lights ................................................................................................. 237
20. Rear Window Sunshade ........................................................................................... 239
21. CD Player and Cover ............................................................................................... 257
22. Trunk Storage Bins, Tray, Straps, Net, and Mat........................................................ 261
23. Rear Fog Lights ........................................................................................................ 265
24. Accessories and Other Options ................................................................................. 283
Appendix I: Special Tools............................................................................................... 301
Appendix II: Wiring Factory Contact System................................................................ 305
Appendix III: Manuals and Reference Sources ................................................................ 307
Appendix IV: Factory Einbauanleitungen (EBA) Installation Instructions ...................... 315
Index.............................................................................................................................. 319
Chapter Chart
First-Aid Kit
Autodimming Mirror Ch. 9
Autorecirculation Ch. 6
Ch. 5
Rain-Sensing Wipers
Ch. 4
Underhood Light
Ch. 3
Headlight Adjusters
Ch. 2
Headlight Washers
Ch. 1
Steering Wheels
Ch. 8
Fire Extinguisher
Ch. 9
Moonroof
Ch. 13 Rear Power Outlet
Ch. 14
Door Sunshades
Ch. 15
Rear Armrest
Ch. 16
Ski Sack
Ch. 17
Rear Headrests
Ch. 18
Accessories
Ch. 24
CD Player
Rear Window Shade Ch. 21
Ch. 20
Rear Heated Seats
Ch. 10
Apart from being an extraordinary vehicle in terms of its engine, handling, styling, and reliability, the Bavarian
Motor Workss E34 was designed with a large array of special options including, at the pinnacle of any extra
features list, an independent gasoline-burning heating system, separate from the engine, to warm up the car
engine and interior before driving in winter! U.S.-specification vehicles tended to have a lot of luxury features
as standard, compared with their European counterparts (e.g., leather, power everything, air conditioning,
large engines); but, on the other hand, many of the cars special options, including some very simple ones that
would have been easy to include on U.S. vehicles, were available from the factory only on European-
specification cars.1 However, the factory prepared excellent illustrated installation and retrofitting instructions
for many of the options, and, in combination with parts procured new or used from Europe, the options can
often be easily installed in U.S. vehicles. Frequently, these cars are pre-wired for the accessories, and mounting
holes et cetera are often pre-cut, pre-stamped, pre-drilled, or pre-threaded, so installation isnt too hard for
people who arent professional mechanics.
This guide shows the best of the factory special options and how to install them, supplementing the factory
instructions when they exist with photographs and additional guidance and tips.
The procedures illustrated in this guide were performed on a 1992 E34 535i sedan, U.S.-specification, with
manual transmission, lazurblau2 exterior, and silbergrau hell (light silver gray) interior. The procedures, parts,
and part numbers may or may not apply to other years, versions, and colors of the E34. In the guide,
references to what the car is equipped with (for example, pre-wiring), et cetera, usually apply to U.S. versions.
Note that where parts come in different colors, if part numbers are shown they are usually for the silbergrau
hell interior. Part numbers are not-infrequently superseded, so check for the latest numbers before ordering.
New-part prices are usually approximate prices from discount sources, not the dealer prices.
I recommend reading-around in the guide, because several retrofits cover similar territory (and can profitably
be done at the same time), so additional illustration and snippets of information can be gathered by browsing.
Although the information in the guide is believed to be accurate, it may or may not be correct, so use any
information here completely at your own risk. The plethora of variations attributable to the different series,
country models, equipment packages, years, and so on can in particular lead to inaccuracies. Check all part
numbers for yourself. Please contact the author if you believe something is in error or have comments,
shadetreebmr@verizon.net. Similarly, nothing in here is intended to encourage or legitimize violating any
vehicle laws. Check the laws applicable to the country and district where you live.
On all these procedures, put your brain into action take a pause as youre working to re-examine what
youre doing and see if youve forgotten something, or can use a different approach or different tools to
achieve the desired result, especially when something isnt working or coming easily. In particular, if youre
having difficulty reaching a part, or getting it off, stop and think about how else you could do it, for example
by taking off some other part to increase access. Go slowly. Think about safety.
This is not an official factory publication. Any views expressed are those of the author. BMW is a registered
trademark of Bayerische Motoren Werke (BMW) AG. This document is copyrighted 2010 by Marcus
Corbin.
Big thanks go to gunnar525 in Germany, whose superb Website showed me that many of these things were
possible to do in the first place; Whit Lowell; and the many others who shared their knowledge. Thanks also in
particular to the very helpful folks at Foreign Car Parts and B&M automotive recycling facilities; BMA parts;
and Tischer BMW / GetBMWparts.com, for helping me to locate and track down often obscure, mainly-
Europe parts.
1
References to European models in the text may include other non-U.S. models, e.g., Japanese, Australian, South
African.
2
Apparently from lazurite, a sometimes dark-blue mineral, not to be confused with lazulite or azurite. Azure is related.
The main features that make driving and operating the E34 such a pleasure are described below, grouped
under these categories:
Convenience
Cockpit
Seating
Interior
Trunk
Safety & Security
Touring.3
Convenience
3
Touring was the name for the E34/2 station wagon or estate version of the car.
the interval is too long. The feature may not have appeared on many, or U.S., models, but is mentioned in
technical manuals.
Headlight/fog-light washers
High-pressure sprays that clean the lenses. (Scheinwerferreinigungsanlage, SRA light-thrower-cleaning-
system!)
The system has nozzles that mount above and below the bumper to spray the lenses. It uses high-pressure fluid
rather than wipers for its cleaning action.
Underhood light
A light mounted in the hood that comes on automatically when the hood is open and the parking lights or
headlights are on. (Motorraumbeleuchtung motor-room-lighting)
This was on the early cars, then disappeared, then reappeared on at least one later year. It can be retrofitted,
although some new wiring will need to be added. The numerous convenience lights on the car are worth
noting: engine room light, four individual map lights, trunk lights, key lights, vanity mirror lights, and glove-box
flashlight. The interior lights can be turned on by lifting the door handle, without opening the door. They also
come on automatically at night after taking the key out of the ignition, nowadays a fairly common feature.
Cockpit
Drivers glovebox
Yes, a nifty second glovebox was available in Europe, to the left of the steering wheel. It is quite a bit smaller
than the main glovebox. The stock installation of the storage box requires removal of the knee safety bolster,
so dont put in the box if youre going to be in an accident where your knees hit the lower dash.
Coin tray
A special insert into the door map pockets was available to hold coins at-the-ready for toll booths, etc.
Check Control shows the following comprehensive information on a display in the instrument cluster:
Low-fluid warnings:
brake fluid
engine oil
engine oil-level sensor problem
coolant
power steering fluid
washer fluid.
4
An early European sales brochure noted, In order to guarantee perfect airbag [operation], the steering wheel is not
adjustable for reach. 8 11 05 09 20 (2/88).
Burned-out-bulb warnings:
brake lights
tail lights
parking lights
headlight low beams
fog lights
license plate lights.
Other warnings:
brake pads worn out
brake light circuit fault
door open while moving
trunk open while moving
parking brake on while moving
headlights on when drivers door is opened
key in ignition when drivers door is opened
suspension leveling fault or overload (when equipped)
automatic transmission fault (when equipped)
Check Control system problem.
On-board computer
This full-featured trip computer calculates and shows several types of information. The readouts can also be
displayed in the instrument cluster, in a programmable order and selection. The information includes:
Clock
12- or 24-hour display. Can be set to chime just before the hour for example to remind you to listen to
the news on the radio.
Trip information:
average mph
distance to destination
estimated arrival time (based on average mph)
range (based on average fuel consumption)
fuel consumption (two separate time spans are available)
timer.
Other displays:
Service-needed indicator
Shows when to get service, according not just to mileage but also to usage patterns.
Seating
5
This is one thing that determines the designation Sports seat. Sports seats have the adjustable thigh bolster, and are
extremely rare in the United States. By far the most common seat in the United States is the mid-line seat, that is, the seat
on which the seams in the center of the seat base run left to right; in contrast, the basic seat (sometimes in cloth or vinyl on
a few U.S. 525i models, particularly those without wood trim) has the seams on the seat base running in narrower strips
front to back.
2010 Marcus Corbin 5
E34 Factory Options Guide Introduction
Interior
Wood trim
1989 models often did not have wood; next models used bubinga wood; 1993 and later models used walnut.
Pieces include two for each of the doors, two each for the drivers and passengers dash areas, and a large one
for the gearshift lever surround.
The bubinga was a rich, slightly reddish, straight-grained African wood. The late models went back to the
more traditional, but gorgeous, burled (knot-produced swirls) walnut.
Weather-band radio
Radio tunes to NOAA weather-broadcast frequencies at the push of a button (WB).
Provides the capability to hear the weather forecast without having to listen to a commercial radio station with
endless advertisements, using the governments weather broadcasts. Now if only the commercial radio
stations suppression of a similar, desperately-needed system for free traffic broadcasts could be prevented ....
6
Later models applied the feature to more of the windows, and added up-applicability as well as down. Reportedly the
extended features can be retrofitted by swapping in a late-model Central Control module.
Moonroof
Glass sunroof, a bolt-in replacement for the steel sunroof panel, fits in the standard sunroof mechanism.
Headliner panel was the same, with the subtraction of a few parts and the addition of a handle.
Extremely rare now, the glass sunroof was made by Saratoga Tops, which no longer makes sunroofs.
Trunk
Ski sack
Fitted behind the fold-down armrest for the rear seat. Armrest is removed with a quick-release mechanism
when using ski sack.
Allows skis or other long objects, such as lumber, to be carried in the car.
Trunk storage
Available are bins, net, securing straps, and rubber mat.
The bins are attached over lugs and can be easily taken out. The securing straps are elastic rubber, and help
things stop sliding around even when the items are just put on top of them. The rubber mat has a substantial
lip and is useful for carrying wet or muddy items.
Velour carpet
A European M5 option. Much nicer than the somewhat rough, but stain-hiding, standard material.
Tool kit
In an integrated fold-down tray on the underside of the trunk lid.
This wonderful carry-over from the golden age of motoring can be quite useful for those occasions when
youve left your own tool roll out of the car. Includes three open-ended wrenches, adjustable pliers, reversible
slot/phillips screwdriver, spark plug socket, and space for the European-supplied warning triangle.
Fog lights
Front and rear.
The front fog lights were standard, but unfortunately the rears were not available in the United States. The
wiring and light control module that controls the rear fog and other exterior lights is different for
European/U.S. models, but a retrofit with some wiring added is possible.
Glovebox flashlight
Small flashlight plugs into recharging socket behind glovebox door.
Another special feature. An accessory wire is also available that adapts the recharging plug for all the electronic
gadgets that plug into a normal cigar-lighter-style socket.
Vehicle immobilization
A correct key must be used or the car will not start. (Elektronischewegsperresystem)
Cars built 1/95 and later have the EWS II system (drive-away protection) that prevents the car from being
started unless the correct key is used. When the key is turned the EWS module energizes a ring around the
ignition lock, which in turn (wirelessly!) charges up a transponder inside the key, cleverly avoiding the need for
a battery in the key. Numerous i.d. numbers, rolling codes, and passwords flow backwards and forwards
between the key, transmitter/receiver module, EWS module, and DME, all in an instant, before the car will
start. The key needs to be registered to the EWS (only ten can be registered, including the four that came with
the car) using BMW diagnostic-computer programming.
Accident response
After a crash, hazard lights, headlights, and interior lights come on, and doors unlock.
Some innovative thinking to come up with those safety actions.
Double locking
Car may be locked so that doors only open with a key, even from the inside.
Designed to prevent a thief breaking a window and quickly opening a door using the inside handle. A thief
would have to crawl in through the window to get inside, which one would think would be a useful additional
deterrent.
First-aid kit
Installs in bracket under the front passengers seat.
A well-stocked kit including a variety of bandages, dressings, scissors, etc., with instructions. The large kit that
is neatly installed underneath the seat was not supplied in the United States, although a smaller, unmounted
kit was available.
Fire extinguisher
Installs on a bracket at front of drivers seat.
Talk about being ready! Early versions using halon gas are no longer produced, unfortunately, because of the
environmental destruction caused by halon. Powder versions work well but can make the area theyre sprayed
a serious mess.
Headlight-beam adjusting
Switch is to left of fog-light switch. (Leuchtweitenregulierung LWR)
Designed for Europe, to adjust for trailer pulling or other loading that tilts the car and hence the headlight
beams up.
Touring
Dual sunroof
The large sunroof is composed of two adjacent panels that move in a variety of directions, giving the rear seat
passengers their own access to the sky.
Luggage area
The luggage area features a retractable cover that can be used to conceal items; dedicated lighting; and lashing
points to stop cargo sliding around. A net partition was also available that divided the luggage area from the
seating area.
Self-leveling
The rear wheels have a hydraulic height-adjustment system to compensate for heavy loads in the cargo area.
Interior
Drivers glovebox
Alternative steering wheels*
Alternative gearshift lever knobs
Lighted gearshift lever*7
First-aid kit
Fire extinguisher*
Rear door sunshades*
Rear armrest with compartment
Fold-down split rear seat8
Ski sack*
Rear independently-switched reading lights*
Rear window manual sunshade*
Rear window power sunshade*
Rear door oddments bins
Trunk bins*
Trunk mat
Trunk net
Trunk velour carpeting
Luggage-area cover (Touring)
Seating
Heated front seats*
Memory front seats, mirrors, and steering column
Lumbar supports*
Thigh supports9
Heated rear seats
Rear seat headrests*
Rear seat power headrests
Electrical Systems
Headlight / fog-light washers*
Headlight-beam adjustment*
Underhood light
Intensive windshield- cleaning system*
Pressure-adjusting wipers
7
This is a nifty option that is usually pre-wired. The top of the knob has an illuminated manual gear pattern. Personally, I
didnt retrofit it since the levers I saw didnt come in wood, plus they have an M (BMW Motorsport) logo, but my car isnt
an M5.
8
Found on the Touring, but not on U.S. sedans. Retrofitting would involve reconstructing the bodywork around the
bulkhead between the rear seats and the trunk.
9
Only available as part of the quite different Sport seats. As noted, I couldnt see what significant benefit this gives. The
provision of the capability has a useful advantage for installing the memory on the vehicle, however: until late, the cars did
not have the power telescoping steering column, hence the early memory control module did not include a memory
feature for the steering column. But it did include a socket for the thigh support, which is normally unused. So if one is
retrofitting the power steering column, it is possible that one could rig up a harness to the thigh support socket to work the
steering column. The potentiometers that go on the various motors (and that one might need to add to the power steering
motor) for memory are similar, although different ones need to be set for different ranges of motion, per the Technical
Reference Manuals.
2010 Marcus Corbin 11
E34 Factory Options Guide Summary
Exterior
Bodywork add-ons such as air dams, side skirts, rear spoiler*
Moonroof
Dual sunroof (Touring)
Roof rack and carriers*
Wide-angle outside rearview mirrors*
Shadowline exterior trim17
Mudguards
Mechanical Systems
Automatic Stability Control+Traction
Limited-slip differential
Electronic Damping Control
Self-leveling
Trailer hitch*18
10
This is the king of all the retrofits, the most one could ever do. Since it is a mini second engine, it involves the electronic,
fuel, cooling, and exhaust systems. There are long factory installation instructions for several vehicles (including E32 and
E36). I decided not to do the retrofit because the mini engine is supposed to be run once a month to keep it in good
shape.
11
I have not seen factory installation instructions for this retrofit, but someone has done it as described on the Web.
12
Seems to be rare in the United States on E34s, though it was standard on the E32s. Control panel has temperature dials
that rotate around a vertical axis rather than a horizontal one. Retrofit would be extremely complex for minimal advantage.
13
A very rare, late option. It has been retrofitted by someone on the Web. Nifty, but aftermarket GPS units are so much
more flexible and convenient.
14
A very cool retrofit, pun intended, but since it goes in the rear armrest space, one would lose the valuable rear-armrest
storage, and the ski sack (see those retrofits in this guide).
15
The car could be equipped with a second battery, which was mainly for the parked heating system. The second battery
went in the trunk. Look for it in the Second Edition of this guide.
16
This is one retrorfit I did not initially go for, since it yells out I dont know how to park. Nevertheless, on the basis of
completeness, look for it in the Second Edition.
17
This substituted black trim for the normal chrome around the windows. An appealing, modern look.
18
This was available in Europe, where trailer use, particularly for campers, seems much more common. For some reason,
perhaps liability, or brand image, the factory didnt make the feature available in the United States. The hitch itself is
different between Europe and the United States, so some fabrication or welding would be needed to hook up U.S. trailers.
Trailer light harnesses and control modules were available for the European installation. Perhaps in the Second Edition ....
12 2010 Marcus Corbin
Summary E34 Factory Options Guide
Wood trim*19
Front independently-switched map lights*
Cruise control*
Leather steering wheel
Airbag(s)
Alarm*
Power sunroof
Heated outside rearview mirrors
Remote central locking
Lights-on warning*
Full on-board computer
Outside-temperature display*
Check Control system
Power windows*
Leather seats (and door panels, seatbelt gaiters for late models; some 525s came with cloth)*
Power seats, including seat base tilt and power headrests*
Front seat armrests*
Power locks
Third brake light*
Other Accessories
Sunroof air deflector
Front passenger-footwell storage net*
Front console storage tray
Coin tray
Cassette and CD holders
Dual cupholder*
Umbrella holder*
Auxiliary fuel canister*20
19
In the United States, the 1989 models usually came without wood trim. The 199091 models featured African bubinga
wood, then came the more common burled walnut. Some front dash pieces might be slightly different between European
and U.S. models.
20
This was designed to fit neatly inside the spare wheel.
Key:
Coolness Time
&&&& Cool and quite rare 2030 hours
&&& Pretty neat, luxurious 819 hours
&& Nifty, and not too common 37 hours
& Nice, not particularly unique 12 hours
Difficulty
Complex fittings, non-factory elements, lots of wiring
Can involve some wiring, wire splicing; upholstery work
Can include drilling, cutting, disassembly
Pretty-much bolt-on
The intensive cleaning system sends a shot of intensive-cleaning washer fluid from a separate tank onto the
windshield (not the headlights) before the regular fluid is sprayed and wiping begins. There have been
suggestions that the intensive-cleaning washer fluid sold in the United States is not the same and is not as
effective as the one sold in Germany. I have not confirmed this, but anyway, as of 2008, it appears that the
intensive fluid is no longer available in the United States. The system is operated by pushing a special wiper
stalk inwards along its axis (regular stalks used this motion for a telephone feature). The intensive stalks are
usually marked by an S rather than a telephone pictogram.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Headlight and fog-light
washing
Fluid container one of several types; unusually, this one goes on 1 61 67 1 384 263 $63
the left of the engine compartment; get the correct
one for your engine/model (see EBA)
Strainer for water 61 66 1 365 848 $3
container
Base (pad) for tank 16 11 1 180 163 <$1
Fillister head self- 4.8x16-z2 2 07 11 9 907 975 <$1
tapping screw, for tank
Expanding nut ST 4.8 2 63 17 1 367 868 <$1
Control module red, goes in the forward relay box in the engine 61 35 1 389 002 $48
compartment, left side
Pump for SRA this is different than the windshield/intensive pump 61 67 1 382 085 $65
21
Hereafter lets just call them headlight washers.
Installation
The installation has quite a few steps, since it involves mounting of tanks, pumps, hoses, nozzles, control
module, wires, and stalk switch for a variety of different models. Several EBA cover the installation for
different models and configurations. Fortunately, most U.S. models seem to be pre-wired for the headlight
washers, and at least some are partly pre-wired for the intensive-cleaning system; fortunately, because
adding the wiring which pretty much needs the factory supplemental harness as covered in most of the
EBA, makes the job quite a bit more lengthy.
You can tell whether your car has the headlight washer pre-wiring by looking in the smaller relay box forward
of the larger, main fuse/relay box, on the left of the engine bay. Look at the foremost relay base, that has no
relay on it, and see whether there are wires coming to it on the underside, and contacts visible from the top in
Headlight Washers
Instead, in my case, I believe the text in an EBA supplement applied: Note in the case of more recent
bumpers, mark the half-moon-shaped22 cut-out [that is] on the topside of the bumper carrier bar from the
inside [i.e., mark the outline of the cut-out in the metal onto the underside of the upper part of the plastic
bumper cover] and punch-mark the center point on the top side of the bumper. Since it seems hard to
punch-mark the center point on the top side of the bumper cover when the outline mark is on the
underside, line up the nozzle assembly on the underside with the outline, and mark the center point of where
the shaft would come through.
22
Id say its more like a circle missing a smaller half-moon shape.
23
Note, when the EBA says at this point, fig. F34 61 003, to install the front bumper it means install the bumper cover
on the bumper carrier, not the whole bumper assembly on the car!
If you are not using already-joined hose assemblies from a donor car, put together your hoses, junction pieces,
and valves, and secure with the special squeeze clamps or screw hose clamps, according to the EBA and
pictures below. The squeeze clamps close with a special kind of pliers, similar to Oetiker clamp pliers, that pull
a hook end of the band clamp over a flange in the other end of the band.
If you are using donor hoses, I recommend replacing the valve pieces at the end of the hoses, as they are not
expensive and some of mine were stuck shut. If you do need to detach hoses for this or other reasons, the
original factory hose clamps can be easily loosened by sliding the mating ends to one side of each other, rather
than trying to lever the hook end over the top of the flange. That way they dont get damaged much in
removal, and can be re-used. Use glycerine to lubricate the inside of the tubes when inserting new valves.
Glycerine is often available in drug stores as a hand lotion.
24
Note that the EBA says that certain models sounds like the more basic ones not supplied to the United States may
need a software upgrade at the dealer for the basic central control module.
Intensive-Cleaning System
For the intensive cleaning, the steps are:
This shows the wiring as I installed it on my car, similar but not identical to the factory installation. The dotted lines show
wires for the factory installation that were already on my car.
When the wire and contact are out, cut off the old contact, well replace it with a new contact crimped onto
two wires.
Oddly for my car since it had some of the intensive system wiring, had the headlight washer wiring, and had
pretty much all the other optional accessory wiring, and since a lot of 525s seem to have the intensive wiring
over to the pump my car did not have that wiring. The engine bay, where the wires run to the pump, is a
wet area, so wiring that is waterproof from the front fuse box up to and including the pump connector is
needed. I procured a waterproof connector and pair of wires that were actually for a right-mounted headlight-
washer tank from a 525i donor car. These ran all the way around the engine bay rear to the small front relay
box forward of the main front fuse box, so would also reach well into the front fuse box in my installation.
E32s would sometimes have such wires, and wiring to the regular windshield washer pump should also work.
25
Check the wiring diagrams (Electronic Troubleshooting Manual) for your model.
Insert the contact into the F24 slot making sure it clicks into place, slide the white retaining bar back in, and
restore the fuse. Put the fuse-holder row back in the larger holder.
Next, connect the other lead from the pump to connector X13 in the driver footwell. Start by removing all the
under-dash and footwell trims (see chapter on drivers glove box).
Unclip the X13 connector and separate the two halves by levering out the sliding portion at one end.
Alternatively, the inner portion can be pulled out of the outer portion entirely, but that takes a lot of fingers to
move different release tabs, and is not the official method.
The intensive-cleaning system uses a slightly different wiper relay. My car had a mini-relay (half the normal
width) for its wiper relay; many other versions of the E32 and E34 use a normal-size relay.26 Check the
Electronic Troubleshooting Manual (ETM see Appendix III) relay-position diagrams to find out which yours
has, and substitute an intensive-system relay of the appropriate size. If needed, you can convert from one size
to the other by taking the contacts out of one size of relay holder and putting them in the other, and then using
a different hole in the front fuse box. There are usually blanks in one or more slots in the relay holder where
you can put a new relay.
26
My explorations of cars and ETMs suggest that for the E32 only the 1991 model used the mini-relay.
Put on the fuse box lid. Re-install the hood guide, making sure the hood switch and release cable are seated
properly on it. Adjust the rear of the guide under its bolt so that it goes in the same position it used to be
look for the bolt washer mark on the guide.
Insert the new switch, route the harness, zip tie everything, and plug in the harness at X295.
Put everything in the footwell and front fuse box back together.
Fill the intensive tank with factory Intensive Cleaner, if you can find it, or some other appropriate fluid.
Now get ready for a fancy show. Test the headlight/fog-light washers by turning on the car (so you dont drain
the battery), the headlights, and the fog lights. Then turn on the windscreen washer a few times, spaced apart
a few seconds, and turn off and on the lights if needed. If everything is put together correctly, sooner or later
the control module will turn on the headlight/fog-light washers the headlight washers will come on together
first, then fog-light washers, then each again in turn.
But where do you actually aim them? You came to the right source for the tip: in some of the EBA for
headlight washer installations on the E32 (e.g., 01 29 9 781 825 or 01 29 9 786 007), there is a diagram with
specifications for the aim points.
Unfortunately, in the EBA illustration theres a disconnect between the drawing and the written specification. It
looks like the key might have become mixed up. The diagram below is my own, and it assumes that the EBA
drawing is right and the key is mislabeled. If you think the drawing is wrong and the key is right, just reverse
the low-beam/high-beam specs.
Next test the intensive cleaning system: when you push in the wiper stalk along its axis, first the intensive
pump should come on, then the wipers, then the regular pump should spray regular washer fluid. Presto,
cleaner glass ....
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Headlight adjusting only came on European versions; from 9/91 2 67 16 8 355 148 220
motors
Headlight harness yellow, 2-pin for European low beams 2 61 13 1 378 403 1
connectors white, 2-pin for European high beams 2 61 13 1 378 401 1
gray, 2-pin for European city lights may not be needed 2 61 13 1 378 406 1
for adjusting motors, 3-pin 2 61 13 1 378 955 1
ideally, get all the above included with used assemblies
Headlight adjusting ideally, get included with used assemblies 1 61 31 8 351 269 38
switch
Adjusting screws, D. adjuster (manual) 4 63 12 1 378 368 6
sockets B. intermed piece-pivot, 9/89+ (plastic, for Bosch) 4 63 12 1 394 252 4
B. intermed piece (knurled non-adjusting bolt, for Hella) 4 63 12 1 378 339 7
A. knurled bolt [not really knurled, has long plastic turner] 2 61 12 1 388 027 5
rubber bushing (actually, plastic) 12 63 12 1 378 369 2
rubber bushing (possibly needed instead of 2 of the above) 2 63 12 1 386 616 2
Headlight vertical aim C. motors; -9/91 2 67 16 8 351 878
control 2 63 12 1 391 435
9/91- (later versions reportedly better weatherproofed) 2 67 16 8 355 148
2 67 16 8 355 728
Total cost (new): $350
Positions of headlight-poisitioning bolts listed above, as viewed from the drivers seat (black circles represent
the headlights):
C D D C
A and top-row D bolts adjust left-right aiming, C and bottom-row D bolts adjust up-down aiming. C is
the motor rod, when the motors are installed; the rods are still set manually, the switch provides a fixed
adjustment from the standard setting. For setting, C and D have phillips screwdriver slots in the end of the
bolts accessible through the grills, A has a plastic extension, turnable by hand or flat screwdriver, accessed
through the engine bay.
Einbauanleitung
Headlight Beam Throw Adjustment, 783 621, 1/90
Headlight Vertical Aim Control, 787 538, 2/93
Installation
Steps are as follows:
If you lever off the outside of the trim with a screwdriver, cover the screwdriver so it doesnt scratch. Be
careful, theres a black plastic tab that is part of the plastic grill, and it can get broken off. Dont lever hard or
the long grill piece might bend.
Diagram shows some wire colors/sizes from the factory harness. Numbers are wire cross-section size in mm2. Short-dashed
lines are existing wires.
The diagram above is for the 1992 535i, based on a European wiring diagram that showed the headlight-
beam adjusters. There are various ways to design and run the wiring. I will describe one way; modify as you
like.
Because certain wires need to go through tight grommets into and out of the front fuse box in the engine bay,
build up the harness as you go along, starting at the front, rather than making it all then installing it.
Crimp the wire tails of three weatherproof pins for the right headlight motor connector to new wires that will
lead all the way to the front fuse box.
Lay the wires along their approximate route to the fuse box, in order to cut them to length, noting that the
wires have to go all the way into the waterproof area of the fuse box, down to the bottom side of the fuse box,
and well into it.
Wrap the wires in fabric tape from the connector just to where they will meet up with the similar left headlight
wires.
Lay the wires from the right headlight to the left side. There is a nice channel available in front of the lower
part of the radiator, about an inch tall, opening toward the rear. The EBA appears to use this, or at least shows
the wires running close by. The channel starts just behind and below the headlights; the center grill clips into it
in the middle. Zip tie the wires using the holes along the top of the channel.
Crimp on wires for the left connector, which will also go to the fuse box.
Wrap the left- and right-side wires together with fabric tape.
Lay the harness along the existing harness up to the fuse box, and attach it using the existing wire straps. Be
very careful when opening up the straps, they are very thin and can break easily after all these years.
Open up the fuse box, and unscrew the middle section five very small (Torx T10) and very stiff screws. Be
extremely careful not to strip the small screw heads, it would be exceedingly difficult to get the fuse box section
off without breaking it if a screw gets stuck in place. Perhaps, upon reinstallation, use some kind of anti-sieze
lubricant on the threads.
Take off the hood guide to the left of the fuse box two 10mm bolts after marking the position of the rear of
the guide relative to its bolt. (See chapter on headlight, fog-light, and intensive washers.)
Crimp each of the three pairs of similar wires (one from the left headlight, one from the right, for each pair)
onto a single respective connector pin, and put the three pins into one half of a spare three-pin connector.
Look for the hole at the back right of the fuse box where a large wire bundle runs through the firewall into the
underdash area. Run three new wires through the hole. Try easing them through by hand, but if that doesnt
work, tape the end of each wire tightly to a screwdriver point, and gently ease it and the screwdriver through
the hole together. Then look for the end from the footwell side, untape the wire from the screwdriver, and pull
it all the way through.
If you like, you can skip the supplementary two-pin connector method shown in the wiring diagram earlier for
the X15 connections, and splice directly into new pins for those slots. Using the supplementary connector
does maintain the integrity of the original wiring, and is the way the factory usually does such wiring add-ons
as shown in various EBA.
Remove the original pins from X15/8 and /30, and plug them and the other pins into one half of the
supplementary connector as shown in the wiring diagram. Plug the new wires from the other half of the
supplementary connector into X15/8 and /30.
Crimp ring terminals to the ground wires as in the wiring diagram; add them to the underdash ground posts.
Crimp contact pins on the remaining three wires going to the switch, and insert them in the connector.
Release the instrument cluster two small screws at the top underneath the cowl (see chapter on rear fog
lights). Pull it forward as far as it will go, being careful not to scratch surfaces. You probably have just enough
access to run the wires without taking the cluster out completely. Lay the appropriate wires from the
underdash area behind the cluster, and up to the switch area.
Coincidentally, the wire lead to the bumper side marker on your car should simply be long enough to plug its
male grey connector directly into the city lights female grey connector!27 ( ... Or it may not be coincidental if
the factory cleverly decided to just utilize the city-light harness for the side-marker lights that are used in the
United States.) All you need to do is re-route the wire up from the bumper.
27
If youd rather not move the side-marker wires, just make a wire bridge harness to go from the now-free side-marker-
light connector to the city-light connector, using additional male and female connectors and short sections of waterproof-
pin wire.
56 2010 Marcus Corbin
Headlight-Beam Adjusters and Headlights E34 Factory Options Guide
Plug in the connectors.
Have your headlights aligned professionally, or do it yourself using instructions availabe on the Internet.
Pretty cool youre on your way to filling in all the blank switch holes on your dash and seats!
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Underhood light switch 1 61 31 1 379 572 $3.50
Underhood light 1 63 31 8 350 554 $7.40
Bulb 10W 1 63 21 7 160 912 ~$1
Harness cut wires from donor car harness whole engine 1 ~$3
harness would cost $100 even from a junkyard
Total cost: $15
Note the bulb is listed as a 10W bulb, not a 5W like some of the other similar oblong bulbs in the car.
Einbauanleitung
None
Preparatory
For power, I ran a new wire from the right side-marker light connector to the hood light harness.
28
This connectors contact pins are male, the actual plastic connector part is female. Gender references here will be to the
connector, not to the pins.
Installation
The steps are:
1. Remove insulation
2. Attach harness
3. Install components
4. Splice in the wiring
The mat attaches with numerous clips. Unscrew the screw to allow the rivet
to be pulled out.
Splice in the wire(s) to a power circuit, possibly one switched by the parking light switch, as in the original
installation. Wires to the right front bumper side marker do go conveniently close by. Fortunately, the side-
marker bulbs are not monitored by the Check Control (the parking lights are), so there are no potential show-
stoppers there (that is, the lack of a bulb in that circuit will not trigger a Check Control warning).
FYI, in an original 90 installation, the underhood light wires went into the harness that goes along the right
side of the engine bay, across the back of it, and in through the front of the front fuse box to a splice in the
fuse box, and thence through connectors and splices to the light switch.
I considered using a second switch rather than have the lights come on only when parking/headlights were on,
to avoid accidental illumination. But in the end, I mimicked the original design, and plugged in to the circuit
that comes on with the exterior lights. I was installing the Euro bumper trims that do not have the additional
small side-marker lights, so a nearby plug became free, providing a stock-seeming wiring installation. Check
your national and state laws, it may or may not be okay to not use those side-marker lights, and if not, you
could just tap into the wires there while leaving them connected to the side-marker light.
Now prepare the wire and female connector that will be plugged into the side-marker light male connector.
Remove the large plastic screw towards the top of the washer fluid tank, remove the wire connectors on the
pump and the level sensor (careful on the squeeze tabs, theyre often brittle by now, and break off), and set
the tank down, relatively out of the way. You do not need to disconnect the hose or remove the tank
completely.
Plug the wire youve laid going up to the hood into the existing connector originally used for the side-marker
light.
Now youre done. Test the light, making sure it goes out when you push in the hood switch. The switch can be
a little finicky, so if the light doesnt come on, wiggle the switch.
Wait til its dark, then enjoy the illumination of your engine bay!
Hella has a kit for the E34 and several other BMW models, and at least one other companys retrofit is
available. The Hella rain sensor is a not-too-obtrusive box, about 2x3, that goes on the windshield, usually
above the rearview mirror; a control module mounts under the dash. Few wiring modifications are needed.
Once installed, when you put the wipers in the former intermittent mode, the Raintronic takes over and
wipes whenever needed. The vehicles regular and fast wipe modes stay the same.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Hella Raintronic kit used price 1 5WB 007 977-811 ~$50
Wire $5
Wire connectors from donor cars $5
Total cost (used): $60
Einbauanleitungen
Mounting Instructions, Hella 460 844-03/09/00
wiring diagram, Hella 460 844-07/06/99
Installation
Steps are:
The diagram below shows the approximate locations of the wires, connectors, and devices in the car, and
where to attach the Raintronic connections.
Existing wiper wiring (solid lines) with additions and modifications (dashed lines) needed to install Raintronic system.
The terminals for the control module handle the following functions, according to the instructions:
15 positive power supply (from fuse 24 in my particular car, not from the radio as the
instructions say)
31 ground
31b limit switch in wiper motor
SW1 trip-on signal
A4 Raintronic output signal
The Raintronic control modules terminal blades are arranged in a standard pattern, and the module will plug
into a factory relay holder (e.g., 61 13 1 389 113 or -111) if desired.
If using a donor factory relay base, take out the existing contacts by depressing the securing tabs on the
contacts from the top with the special tool or micro-screwdrivers. Then with the contact tabs still depressed,
use other micro-screwdrivers from the underside to depress locking tabs on the relay base, while gently pulling
out the contact. Its a little tricky and would be easier with five hands.
As you make up each wire below, crimp on a new contact (e.g., double leaf spring contacts, 61 13 1 370
691, -692, or -693) and fit the contact in the appropriate relay base position. The module shows the terminal
numbers on its side; match up those terminals with the pattern on the relay base. If using the relay base that
comes with the Raintronic set, crimp on standard push-on wire connectors rather than the factory type.
Wire lengths will depend on where the module is to be located. In my case I needed roughly these lengths:
Wire 1.
Splice a wire from the Raintronic
control module terminal 15 to the vi/sw
.5 mm2 wire already going to X14/9, or
merge and crimp the wires at a new pin
connector in the 9 slot. I did the former.
(On a 92 the existing wire brings
power from fuse 24 to the general
module, X255/10, under the rear
seat.)
Wire 2.
The Raintronic calls for sharing a
ground wire on the General Module as
the modules ground too Im not sure
why since the General Module is all
the way back under the rear seat.
There are nearer ground points in the
under-dash area that would seem to
serve as well, unless there are some
special electronic considerations at
play. Run a new br wire from the
module terminal 31 to one of the
ground points, crimp on a ring-
terminal connector, and bolt it to the
ground point.
Wire 4.
Disconnect the two halves of
connector X295.
Wire 5.
Splice or merge the Raintronic
terminal A4 wire to the bk/br wire
already going from X295/2 to the
wiper stalk. Keep the original wire
functional, dont take its connectors
out or cut it.
There, youre done. Fire up the car, spray some water on the windshield with a garden hose, and test the
system. Look forward to some low-hassle driving in light rain!
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Control module 1 61 35 1 390 352
Bracket 1 61 31 1 389 004
a
Wire harness for IHKA (automatic a/c), IHKR 3, up to 9/91 1 61 12 1 390 207
a
for IHKA (automatic a/c), IHKR 3, 9/91 onwards 61 12 8 359 140
for IHKR 2; up to 9/91 61 12 8 351 211
for IHKR 2; 9/91 onwards 61 12 1 359 141
Cable holder clips for harness in wheel well 5 64 11 1 364 073
Sensor early type 1 64 11 1 390 325 $228
? 64 11 6 924 755
late type 64 11 8 391 470
? 64 11 6 917 001 $78
Bracket for sensor bracket 1 64 11 8 390 598
hex bolt with washer M5x12-Z1 07 11 9 915 002
flat washer 5.3 07 11 9 936 416
Touring bracket 64 11 8 390 062
adapter for Touring bracket 64 11 8 362 939
Control unit for the main a/c, heat, and fan control module 1 64 11 8 351 097
heater control
Switch for heated IHKR 2 and 3 1 61 31 1 391 767 $84
rear window, airflow, IHKR 1 61 31 8 351 299
and air conditioning
Total cost: used price ~$150
a
Other sources say that IHKR version 3 uses the same sensor as IHKR 2, which seems to correspond better with the switch listing, and that IHKR (i.e., version 1) uses this
sensor, which is also for IHKA.
Youll need a 40mm hole saw and a pilot bit and mandrel (the piece that holds the bit to the saw and the
saw to the drill) if theyre not part of the hole saw.
Einbauanleitungen
None
Installation
Step 1. Take off interior trim
Remove the pedal cover (the black trim above the drivers foot pedals on the underside of the dash); the trim
to the lower left of the steering column; and the deadpedal / speaker panel. See the chapter on the drivers
glove box for details.
Step 2. Mount control module
The control module goes in the cavity on the left of the footwell, which also holds a speaker, the cruise control
module, and various wire harnesses.
Test what you can (e.g., interior illumination lights on control panel light up, a/c switch works), then put
everything back together.
The final step probably requires a visit to a shop with the MoDIC, GT1, or similar diagnostic/programming
device, in order to tell the climate control module that the AUC feature is now installed, unless you have a
pretty fancy laptop diagnostic/programming program. Until the reprogramming is done, the AUC button
should manually activate recirculation, but not start the automatic recirculation feature.
Alright, thats it! Now, when driving along with the controls in auto mode, you should, when stuck behind that
smoke-spewing industrial truck, be able to hear your vents closing, without you lifting a finger ....
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Interior rearview up to 9/92 1 51 16 1 948 156 $287.93
mirror with auto dip
Interior rearview 9/909/92 (old number) 1 51 16 8 141 800
mirror with auto dip
Interior rearview 9/909/92 (new number) 1 51 16 8 165 802 $1,062.99
mirror with auto dip
Interior mirror 9/92, (old) 1 51 16 8 141 176
electrochromic
Interior mirror 9/92, (old) in conj. w/ covers, 51 16 8 251 200 1 51 16 9 134 461
electrochromic
Interior mirror 9/92, (new) in conj. w/ covers, 51 16 8 251 200 1 51 16 8 238 066
electrochromic
Interior rearview 9/921/94, for vehicles with infrared remote control 1 51 16 8 165 802 $1,062.99
mirror with auto dip
Total cost: used price ~$80
Einbauanleitungen
Automatic Dipping Rear-View Mirror, 2/91, 01 29 9 782 113
Interior Rearview Mirror with Automatic Dipping Function, 11/92, 01 29 9 786 337
Description
Later cars (E32, E36 in Europe) used a different autodimming mirror with a 10-pin connector. The mirror
does not have the slide at the bottom, so is less bulky. It is identifiable by a sensor dot at the top center of the
mirror glass. This mirror can also be fitted, though the wires on the vehicle side will need to be refitted into the
appropriate slots on the vehicle-side connector from the donor car.
Installation
You may need to trim tabs to make the connectors fit, and possibly reorder the wires to match them up
correctly. In my case, the match-up was as follows, with the original pin locations shown:
car-side mirror-side
connector connector
ground brown/orange 1 white 2
reverse signal blue/yellow 2 grey 3
power green/black 3 black 1
Take out the interior light panel just ahead of the sunroof switch panel, and put your hand into that space in
order to push the harness and connector over the front lip of the headliner, down towards the mirror.
Pop off the trim cover on the stalk of the autodimming mirror at the round end, and connect the connectors.
Test using the instructions in the EBA to make sure the wire connections are correct. You can test during the
day by covering the light sensor in a hole on the backside of the mirror (toward the windshield), and shining a
flashlight on the sensor on the front of the mirror.
This nifty little cubby hole was only available on European models. U.S.
models put in an undoubtedly valuable anti-submarining knee bolster. For Project Profile
the stock installation, the knee bolster has to come out, though
conceivably with some metal cutting and work one could install the glove
Coolness: &&&
box in and through the bolster itself. Using the most obvious method to do Utility:
that, the glove box would still not be flush-mounted the way it is with the Difficulty:
stock installation. So take your choice, your knees, or a neat cubby .... Time:
Cost: ssss
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Glove box, drivers light silver gray 1 51 45 8 138 174 $92
side
Trim panel, lower left light silver gray 2 51 45 8 138 197 $70
Fillister head self for attaching glove box to trim panel 4 51 43 1 874 616 <$1
tapping screw
Body nut speed nuts for above screws 4 07 12 9 925 710 <$1
Body nut speed nuts for attaching pedal cover to trim panels; might 4 07 12 9 901 634 <$1
be needed because old ones are less thick
Wooden strip left side; for no-airbag models, but seems to work with 1 51 45 8 155 851 ~$75
airbag; walnut
Wooden strip right side; for no-airbag models, but seems to work with 1 51 45 8 155 855 ~$75
airbag; walnut
Grommet a plastic and metal piece to grip the left-side attaching pin of 1? 51 45 1 938 904 <$1
the left panels wood trim, and the single pin on the right
panels wood trim
Trim panel lower left actually is lower right in relation to the steering wheel the 1 51 45 8 138 213 ~$37
lower left meaning here is in relation to the center console;
light silver gray
Trim panel, foot normally this number is Euro-only, but was available on 1 51 45 1 978 935 ~$46
controls some very early U.S. cars, pre-airbag
Total cost (new): ~$470
Einbauanleitung
None
Description
The glovebox just clears a knee-protector attaching flange (which was not put on European cars) and the dash
brace, giving it a rather odd shape inside. It does not conflict with the airbag module. The knee protector
needs to be removed unless you want an inordinate amount of work; dont throw it out if you might ever want
to backtrack.
Installation
Once all the pieces are obtained, its a fairly straightforward matter of unscrewing everything and screwing it
back together. Steps are as follows:
The gong.
At this point, gong hole is cut, extra clip hole is drilled, but clutch pedal groove is not yet cut. Markings may just be visible
next to the left vent grill and parallel to the brake pedal groove.
Finished; enjoy deciding what things to put in the neat little cubby! It works well for sunglasses.
Later cars had the option of electric adjustment of the steering wheel for reach (i.e., along the axis of the
steering column, as opposed to tilt), which would be tied in to the memory system when present. The
powered steering column feature was operated with a dedicated lever on the left side of the column, below the
turn signal lever. Retrofitting electric adjustment can be done by installing a late steering column and its
bracket, which is not as difficult as might be imagined.
Parts
Name Details Part no. Price
A. Standard, 4-spoke 7/909/93 32 34 1 159 786
airbag 9/934/94 32 34 1 162 806
M Technic with enlarged grips and colored stitching 32 34 2 276 935
two-tone 32 34 2 276 937
B. Sport II, 3-spoke, old style rim 32 34 9 402 812
airbag 32 34 1 161 008
mounting parts set (bolts, springs, airbag light cover) 32 34 9 066 892 $19
retrofit kit 32 34 9 402 514
steering column 32 31 9 402 535 $257
without airbag 32 33 1 160 675
no airbag; Woodline 82 21 9 401 672
Blackline 82 21 9 401 673
d
with integral airbag leather 32 34 1 161 982 $474
system used: $100
a
C. New standard, 4-spoke airbag; colored roundel 5/94; leather 32 34 1 162 110 $441
c
... plastic 32 34 1 091 872 $446
... wood 82 21 9 404 484 $725
b
D. Sport II/III, 3-spoke, new leather 32 34 1 162 097 $474
style walnut 82 21 9 404 837
mahogany 82 21 9 404 486
Steering column 1995; bracket and wiring included; used price $200
Total (used) $300500
a
Airbag $950; slip ring $160.
b
Airbag $605; slip ring $160.
c
Airbag up to 5/94 listed (32 34 1 093 305) and different one listed still available (32 34 1 094 445).
d
Electronic control (inside wheel) $290; slip ring $80.
Einbauanleitung
(A) Sports steering wheel, BMW M Technic (new version), 2/89, 01 29 9 782 140
(B) Conversion of the standard steering wheel Airbag I to sports steering wheel Airbag II, 2/94,
01 29 9 788 357
(B) BMW Woodline and Blackline Sports Steering Wheels, 6/92, 01 29 9 786 948
(B) Sports Steering Wheel with Airbag II, 4/94, 01 29 9 788 348
(D) Conversion of the standard steering wheel (4-spoke) to sport wheel (3 spoke) (E34 after 5/94), 1/95,
01 29 9 789 119
Description
Column mounting changed around 9/90: earlier wheels used a nut to attach the wheel, and the steering
column spline was smaller; later wheels used a bolt for the wheel, and the spline was larger. Note that the bolts
are supposed to be one-time use, and that some wheels use different contact slip rings. Refer to the EBA for
some useful information on selected swaps.
Installation
Any changes to the steering column, wheel, and airbag system could potentially interfere with their proper
safety operation, so make any modifications at your own risk. Its best to have a qualified shop do the work.
Always disconnect the battery before doing anything in the steering wheel area so your airbag is less likely to
go off inadvertently. Relatedly, let residual electricity dissipate for half an hour after disconnecting the battery,
before taking off the airbag or steering wheel or disconnecting the instrument cluster. If you dont, you might
turn on your supplemental restraint system warning light in the instrument cluster, which is very difficult to turn
off for these years of vehicle without the dealer-only diagnostic system (the relatively inexpensive aftermarket
maintenance-light-reset gizmos usually dont work for the early years).
If youre doing only the wheel, or the power column, adjust the following procedures as appropriate.
Remove two trim panels one that constitutes the lower part of the dash and the other in the footwell called
the pedal cover (see chapter on drivers glove box).
Unclip the lower black trim on the steering column usually one expanding screw-clip underneath, then it just
pulls off the top black trim; it attaches to the top trim tightly.
Step 3. Transfer slip ring, lock, airbag connector, special stalks, keyhole trim
If youre installing a new wheel, transfer the slip ring from the donor column to the new wheel.
Transfer the lock cylinder from the old to the new column. Freeing the lock cylinders can be very fiddly and
frustrating, but the following process worked for me. When a pin is inserted correctly in the tiny hole in the ring
around the key slot, with the key in the lock, it depresses a tab on the outside of the lock cylinder that normally
rests in a groove in the cylinder housing, allowing the cylinder to slide out. So:
1. Unfold the outside leg of a large paper clip (factory specifies a 1.2mm width wire) so its at a 90 angle to
the rest of the clip. Grind a 45 bevel on the outside edge of the end of the clip.
2. Before turning the key fully to the accessory position (45, not 60), insert the end of the clip in the small
hole next to the key slot, with the bevel at top of hole and the rest of the clip pointed down (when the column
is still in the car). While putting light pressure on the clip, turn the key until the clip clearly slips further in than
the or so it could go before. That should accord with the accessory position for the key, roughly.
3. Now push in the clip while rotating the clip 90 up (i.e., counterclockwise), then, importantly, crank it back
down and up again two or more times. Another cylinder I had only worked when I rotated the clip all the way
around a few times. Im guessing the bevel allowed some kind of screw action to force the pin in with the
rotation. Keep pulling out lightly on the key to pull out the cylinder, once the lock tab is depressed.
Transfer any special column switches (e.g., the wiper switch with intensive wash you might have installed
following the chapter in this guide) to the new column. Zip tie the harnesses along the wire channel.
If youre putting in a 95 column, the lower black plastic column trim will have a notch next to the keyhole trim
for the Driveaway Protection System (EWS) wiring, so you may want to use your original column trims if they
fit and you dont have EWS. Mine fit, after I cut out the pre-marked slot for the column-adjusting stalk. Get the
circular trim that goes around the key hole from the old car the one for the EWS wont snap on to the old
key cylinder and put it on with the column trims.
If youre not pre-wired, attach the holder from the donor car or just use a free connector docking station. For
the power wire of the telescoping column, either lay the wire from the donor car all the way back through F41
on the rear relay holder and splice to a nearby hot, red wire in the bundle back there, or splice into an
appropriate underdash wire like the similar-color one going to the driver power seat motors. (The latter might
not be so good if youre applying memory to the column and the memory system activates the column
adjustment motor and seat adjustment motors simultaneously.) Attach the ground wire ring terminal to the
ground post nearby on the underside of the dash.
If youre installing a memory version of the column adjustment, add the voltage regulator / potentiometer on
the end of the motor if necessary, and run wiring or connect to, as necessary, the substituting sport seat thigh-
support port on the memory control module under the drivers seat (see memory chapter).
If youre putting on a new wheel, or transfering your old one, you can mount it now. Use a new bolt with the
specified torque. Connect the wires on the back of the airbag, and bolt it on.
Put back the trims on the steering column, and the dash and pedal trims.
Now test. Reconnect the battery while staying well clear of the airbag. Turn on the ignition, again its probably
a good idea to stay away from the airbag. Make sure the SRS light on the dash goes out after a moment. If
not, youll need to get it reset if you didnt let circuits discharge sufficiently after disconnecting the battery, or
there may be a bigger problem. Test the power adjustment, all the switches and stalks, and dont forget the
horn.
There, thats it. The power adjusting is a feature you may not use much unless you share your car with a
driver of different dimensions, but its one more nifty factory retrofit under your belt!
The fire extinguisher holder attaches to the front of the drivers seat, and
the first-aid kit slides underneath the passenger seat. The fire Project Profile
extinguisher originally came in halon and powder versions; the halon is
no longer available since halon depletes atmospheric ozone and Coolness: & & & &
contributes to global warming. Older extinguishers can be found, used. Utility:
The powder extinguishers work by melting onto hot surfaces Difficulty: (Extinguisher)
suffocating the fire but leaving a gooey mess. (First-Aid Kit)
Time:
The extinguishers are heavy, so they add a bit of weight to the car. Note Cost: ss
in the picture below that there is plenty of clearance for the drivers legs,
at least for a six-footers legs.
The first-aid kit contents, from Holthaus Medical in this case, include:
The piece of chalk is reportedly to write down license plate numbers on the street! Ingenious.
The instruction booklet in this case was from the German Red Cross, 20 pages long, in German, English, and
French, apparently designed for drivers license applicants. It has useful basic instructions and pictures.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Fire extinguisher Set, including mounting parts; used price 1 72 60 0 000 335 $95
Fire extinguisher holder A shell that attaches to the bracket 1 72 60 1 945 556 $47
Mounting parts set Includes bracket, spacers, bolts 1 72 60 1 975 682 $18
First-aid kit Used price 1 52 10 1 928 751 $40
82 12 9 401 430
Clip For first-aid kit 1 52 10 1 945 440 $2
Total (used) cost: $140
Einbauanleitung
Fire extinguisher, 2/88, 01 29 9 781 460 (also includes helpful instructions on using extinguishers, such as the
need to spray judiciously the halon and powder extinguishers only last roughly 8 and 12 seconds,
respectively!)
Fire Extinguisher
The fire extinguisher is a simple bolt on, but does require a little seat-leather cutting.
I found no need to take out the seat as the EBA calls for it might be marginally easier to do the install with
the seat out, but it was not worth the hassle. Ideally do the install while the seat is out for some other reason,
or simply raise up the seat.
If you really didnt want to cut your leather, it appears to be possible (deviating from the EBA instructions) to
install the bracket on the seat behind the leather, rather than make the incisions to mount the bracket on top of
and through the leather. A very short spacer might be useful. The seat leather would need to be unhooked to
screw in the bolts underneath the leather, and would have to be left partially unhooked. Either way that part of
the seat is hard to see, so even if one cut the leather and took off the extinguisher later, there would not be
glaring holes.
First-Aid Kit
Box exterior.
The contents.
The easier way to get these for the front is to take the whole seat or seat
cover with heating out of a junkyard car! Alternatively, the front heating
elements are not too expensive to buy or difficult to fit, because the wiring Project Profile
loom is normally present (shared with the lumbar-support wiring). The
only tricky part is removing and replacing the seat leather from its
Coolness: &&
underlying foam or supporting mat. Utility:
Difficulty:
This chapter also shows you how to replace worn-out seat covers, even if Time:
for some reason you dont want to add heating. Many of the original E34 Cost: ssss
seats, particularly the drivers seat and its upper left side bolster by the
door, are worn and cracked now, because although the leather was of
high quality and quite tough, few owners seem to have treated them with the essential leather preservative and
conditioner. If you find leather in good condition in a junkyard, it can be transferred fairly easily, and best of
all the usually less-used passengers side fits perfectly on the drivers side (one cut in a hidden area of the
leather may be needed for a switch).
Rear seat heating was only available in the M5, but is retrofittable to the non-M5 seat because the seats are
similar (except perhaps for the special seat on some M5s, which has a fixed center console taking up the
middle area). The rear installation requires two wiring harnesses, one of which is quite expensive, but the two
harnesses also permit adding power to the rear headrests, so that makes the expenditure more worthwhile.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Front
Seat heater element, for seat leather seat 2 64 11 8 391 234 $71
base, front
Seat heater element, for leather seat 2 64 11 8 391 235 $71
seatback, front
Wiring loom, front in seat; probably already installed; 9/909/93 2 61 12 8 350 203 ~$75
Switch, front switch and connector, changed 9/90 2 61 31 1 390 888 $113
Covering cap In case lumbar switch is not installed. (Fills the 2 52 10 8 140 449 $2
adjacent hole that is uncovered when the blanking (light silver gray)
cover [52 10 8 140 443 light silver gray] is
removed to uncover the heating switch hole.)
Clamp hog rings to attach seat cover to seat 52 10 1 945 543 $0.05
Rear
Rear seat heater element, seat Left and right 1 ea. 64 11 1 391 795 $75
base and -796
Rear seat heater element, Left and right 1 ea. 64 11 1 391 797 $75
seatback and -798
Switch, for rear heating changed 9/90 2 61 31 1 374 221 $49
Wiring harness, power supply 1 61 12 8 355 184 ~$70
Wiring Smaller harness for underside of seat base 1 61 12 1 382 636 ~$160
Total cost (new): $982
Total cost (used and new): used front seats; new rear elements and harnesses ~$560
Einbauanleitung
Seat Heating, 6/95, 01 29 9 789 415 (front seats)
Leather trim, 9/95, 01 29 9 789 357 (doesnt cover seat heating, but shows how to remove and replace seat
covers)
Front Seats
Installation
Steps are:
1. Remove seat
2. Remove covers
3. Install the elements
4. Reinstall the covers
See steps in the chapter on seat memory for seat removal. Also remove the seatback rear trim panel. Separate
the seatback from the seat base.
You do not need to remove the lumbar support, nor the seat rail, unlike what the EBA says.
This is a good time to preserve and clean the leather, for example with Leatheriques Rejuvenator and
Cleaner. Regular treatment is needed or the seat leather will crack and deteriorate.
The seat-heating switch goes on the side of the seat, near the center
console in a little bay that is normally covered by a blanking plug
when there are no heated seats or lumbar support. The switch is
forward of the switch for adjusting the lumbar support. If you dont
have, or are not putting in, the lumbar support (go ahead and do it!),
youll need a cover for the lumbar switch hole, which will now be
exposed in the bay shared with the seat heater switch. See covering
cap in the parts list earlier.
Hole where the seat-heating switch goes. Lumbar support switch is shown,
aft of the vacant hole.
Liberate the appropriate tied-back branch of the seat harness, push it up through the switch hole, connect the
switch, then push the switch back down into place in the hole.
Reinstall:
lumbar switch, if applicable,
large plastic lower side-trim pieces, screwing on the seat-adjusting switch and attaching the knobs,
armrest,
fire extinguisher bracket if applicable, and
seatback rear trim panel, including two screws with trim caps at the bottom sides.
Reinstall the seat base in the car, then attach the seatback by holding down the levers while sliding the
seatback down over the arms on the seat base. Slide in the headrest. Connect and zip tie wires as appropriate.
Thats it! Next time in winter, bask in the glow of seat heating ....
Disconnect battery.
In my case the wire lead was about six inches too short to connect with the harness that is attached to the
bottom of the seat base (going to the headrest switches too). I made a simple bridging harness, using spare
matching white 2-pin connectors (this shows the value of picking up extras of connectors and the like when
you go to junkyards, you never know when you might need something!).
The 2-pin connector halves for the seatback elements were white on the vehicle harness, but black on the
elements. The connectors are color-coded according to shape, and one color will not fit with another. So,
using the special contact-release tool, and after sliding the inner portion sideways to release the contacts, I
simply switched one of the two colors of connectors to match the other, again using spare junkyard
connectors.
If not already done, install the heater switches in the panel on the rear of the front console (see chapter on rear
power outlet) and run the wires (part of the main headrest supplementary harness) to them. Install a relay if
not done already (see discussion of installing the main supplementary harness in the rear headrest chapter).
Connect the battery, start the car, and test the heaters.
Congratulations, youve got just about the only E34 in the nation with rear seat heating!
All the U.S. E34 standard seats with lateral seams seem to be pre-wired for lumbar supports and heating, but
not for memory. In my case 535i the main vehicle harness that came to the drivers seat was pre-wired
with all the necessary leads. In the doors, a few substitute wires need to be laid. Needed in all cases is a
supplementary harness of which there were several variations depending on production date, control
module version, motorized steering column, airbag, and seat type which goes between the vehicle harness,
the seat, and the mirrors (and sometimes the steering column).
Because the various seat motors for memory have potentiometers added on (the motors themselves are the
same for memory/non-memory) in order to report seat positions to the control module, it is easiest to get at
least the seat base, as a whole, from a junkyard rather than trying to modify an existing non-memory seat by
adding on potentiometers or switching the motor assemblies.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Drivers seat with memory Seat heater switches and connectors 1 $200
changed in 9/90; used price
Drivers outside rearview mirror Mirror shape changed in 9/92, this is the 1 51 16 8 181 599 $75
earlier version; used price
Passengers outside rearview mirror Mirror shape changed in 9/92, this is the 1 51 16 8 181 618 $75
earlier version; used price
Mirror switch Used price 1 61 13 1 380 150 $10
Supplementary wiring loom This one is for pre-9/93 cars with electric 1 61 12 8 359 168 ~$50
steering column and early seat-heating
switches; at least 13 other versions exist;
get the loom included with the a donor seat
Memory control module This one is the early one; changed in 9/93; 1 61 35 1 388 561 $100
get the loom included with the seat
Total cost: $360
Einbauanleitung
None
Donor Parts
E32 and E34 seats generally share the same seat components, including base rails and base frame, so finding
a match is easier than it would be otherwise you can take the leather covers off your existing seat and put
them on a junkyard donor seat if needed. Some early E32s did have a different backrest whose shape was so
similar that you cant tell its different until you see the leather doesnt quite fit right. As I found out. So I
transferred its memory headrest motor to my old seatback, on which the leather, obviously, fit). Sometimes
differences in feel or width between E32 and E34 seats have been mentioned, but these may be attributable to
different seat wear, or the revision in seat leather in 1993, because in most cases the part numbers are
identical.
Spend some time checking the wiring diagrams for the donor car and your own car to make sure there are no
incompatibilities. The wiring on the seat itself is obviously quite different, but usually the pinouts at the
interface for all that wiring to the car at white connector X275 are the same, so things should work without
much rewiring at all. In my installation, one small difference was that the seat wiring brought voltage to the
seat side of X275/6 (for passenger and rear seat heating relays) and there was a wire on the vehicle side of
that pin that I didnt know the function of, so to be safe I disconnected the seat-side pin. Similarly, X275/5
was used in my donor seat (to unload the seat heaters while starting the car), but there was no wire on the
vehicle side of X275/5 in my E34, so no pin removal was needed.
Obtaining wiring from the same or similar production date range is helpful for an easier retrofit. Note the
production month and year of the donor car when you get the parts, for reference to the wiring diagrams.
While youre at it, get a seat with seat heating too, if possible, and hence bypass the whole front seat heating
retrofit described in another chapter.29
Confusingly, the supplementary harness, which plugs into the main incoming harness (from the vehicle to the
seat; white 12-pin connector), also has some branches that go back out to the vehicle to the mirrors, a
ground, and optionally the steering column. The whole supplementary harness, including these branches,
should be obtained from the donor car. Also include the wiring harnesses from the drivers and passengers
doors.
The following description covers removal of donor parts from an E32. Steps will include:
Take off the seatback trim by unscrewing the two screws at the bottom sides, gently sliding it upwards a little,
then pulling the trims bottom end outwards. (See chapter on lumbar supports for pictures of the relevant
attaching clips.)
29
Note that early (before 9/90) heating switches did not have auto-shutoff incorporated into the switches, and instead an
unloader relay would cut off the seat heaters during startup. If you use a pre-9/90 heated seat in a later car, the unloader
relay is likely not there, and if the seat heaters are switched on they might be drawing on the battery during startup.
140 2010 Marcus Corbin
Memory Seats, Mirrors, and Steering Column E34 Factory Options Guide
To get the seatback off, use
adjustable groove joint (also known
as water pump) pliers to pull
down the spring-loaded levers. The
right-side one is shown in the picture
(grip the lever and the frame below
it, squeeze them together). There is
one lever on each side lift one side
a little then release the other lever
and lift that side, but dont twist
things out of shape. Someone
suggested its easier if you
disconnect the spring first, but its
usually not necessary.
Look at the slide motor, on the right side under the seat, oriented fore-aft. In the center of the front end is a
hole with a white plastic piece that when turned will, almost imperceptibly, move the seat. Unfortunately the
hole is some unusual type of socket, and some might not have grooves at all. One appears to be similar to a
Torx socket, but has eight spline grooves rather than six. It is probably a European double square socket.
Theres probably a factory special tool for it, but a screwdriver of the right width (4mm) can work in a pinch
and in fact is what the factory repair manual calls for. Be careful, you dont want to strip the plastic nut. It takes
an awful lot of rotations to move the seat substantially, so be prepared for some slow-and-steady work, and
check to make sure that you are in fact moving the seat in the correct direction.
If the hole does not have any grooves, some can still be turned by jamming in the right size (smallish but not
too small) screwdriver. A long-shafted screwdriver helps.
Once the seat is forward enough, use an E14 external Torx socket (external Torx splines are on the outside
of the bolt head, not the inside) to remove the two bolts at the back of the seat rails.
Supplementary-harness to vehicle-
harness connector was actually
located underneath the air ducts, as
shown here (just visible behind the
yellow connector), not on top as in the
earlier picture. Note the connectors
that go up to the seat, at right in the
picture (top three plug into control
module; lower one in bottom right
corner of picture plugs into another
harness on the seat). Also note the
white zip-tie wire holder on a stud at
left, with a useful, all-too-rare release
tab!
Check for any zip-ties under the seat for the supplementary harness and its flexible tube, and record their
locations and how the supplementary harness lies, when you disconnect it.
Loosen the sill wire channels, and free the harness branch that goes forward to the footwell. If the donor car
has an electrically-adjustable steering wheel, free the branch of the harness that goes to the steering column
harness connector.
Put the blue bar back in, since it serves to lock the contacts in place.
Take off the screw for the speaker grill at the lower front of the door window and remove the grill. Take off
another screw for the speaker trim and move the trim out of the way. Then unscrew the mirror bolt (6mm
allen wrench); hold the mirror while doing so.
On my donor harness, ground wires for the door heater, door handle switch, and window limit switch were
spliced to the memory wires. One could keep these branches of the wires on the harness, and swap their
connectors with the ones on the appropriate connectors on the car. But I found it easier to just keep the
branches of those wires that we need (i.e., going to the mirror connector and the mirror adjustment switch),
and run them to unused pin holes on the door connector.
Examine the wiring diagram that follows to see an example of what we need to have.
This diagram illustrates the harness that you need to end up with, depending on your production years. It is made by
removing the unneeded wires and connectors from the donor cars door harness. The wires to X257/12 and /13 will have
other wires spliced to them; these other wires can be cut off. The harness will be installed alongside the existing harness in
the non-memory door.
Once the center piece is slid sideways, use the factory contact release tool to take out the wire sockets from
their slots. Take out the small connector from the larger door connector housing, prying out the blue locking
tab (see earlier discussion) if necessary, or breaking the housing.
A completed abridged driver door harness in approximate relative positions, with connections labeled. The three door
ground branches with single-pin connectors are not needed unless you wish to swap their connectors in for the originals.
Blue tape is my labeling.
If your new seatback is different (e.g., an early E32 one) and your old (or newly-acquired, in-the-right-color)
leather covers dont fit it, and hence you want to use your old seatback, transfer the memory headrest motor
with potentiometers to the old seatback. Strangely, although the early E32 seat that I obtained used exactly the
same headrest raising/lowering mechanism as the later seats, its facing was reversed. This positions the
headrest-post-attaching sockets an inch or so differently on the earlier seats, to line up with the headrests posts
that were located (by the frame) in a correspondingly slightly different position than on the later seats. Since I
was using the later seatback, but needed the memory equipment from my earlier donor, I left the later
headrest mechanism in place and just brought over the early memory motor and drive cable, without the
mechanism. (I looked into the possibility of transfering just the potentiometer, from the early motor to the later
motor, but it was easier to do the whole memory motor.)
If youre bringing over the headrest mechanism, it unbolts with a single screw under the leather at the top of
the frame.
Plug the seat switches (memory, seat movement, heating, lumbar, and very rarely thigh support) into the
new trims.
If you have a fire extinguisher (see chapter in this guide), install it too. You might want to cut holes in the
leather for the bracket now, but actually install it later so that it doesnt get in the way while testing the new
seat in the car.
Installation
Steps will include:
1. Preparation
2. Lay supplementary wiring
3. Install mirror wiring
4. Install seat
Step 1. Preparation
Disconnect battery.
Be very careful not to scratch trim, paint, or anything, with the seat rails etc. as you take out the old seat.
If one obtains an E34 small connector alone, one could move the pins from the E32 harness to the E34
connector rather than cutting the E32 connector to get it to fit in the larger holder. The E32 connector (door
side) part number is 1 378 928 (for early and late examples that I found), and the attached male-male
converter is 1 378 992, but I could not find the E34 part numbers (they may not be available from the factory
anymore anyway, so a donor vehicle would be the only option).
If you have the electrically-adjustable steering wheel, connect the portion of the harness that goes to the
steering column harness connector.
Run the other, longer branches of the harness backward along the sill, then along the front of the rear seat
bench in the wire channels toward the right sill (see chapter on rear power outlet). Thence run the single
ground wire through the hole at the base of the rear seat bench wall by the battery, and up to one of the
ground posts on the back side of the wall (just to the right of the battery). Dont forget to attach this single
small ground wire; when I finished the whole job after a long gap, I couldnt figure out why the memory
system wasnt working, until I rememberd this unattached ground.
Run the black-taped connector branch forward in the sill wire channels to the right door connector, and put
the plug in a slot.
Insert the appropriate end of our supplementary door harness, including the three loose wires, into the door.
Put them alongside the original harness into the hole leading to the front edge of the door and thence to the
rubber tube. Pull the wires out of
the front edge of the door. Tape up
the ends to make the passage
smoother, then carefully pull the
wires through the rubber grommet.
Its a tight fit, but can be done. Pull
the main larger group of wires with
their rectangular connector through
first, then the smaller ones, together
or individually. A hooked pick can
help in this whole process.
Using the special contact release tool, remove the gn/bk wire from pin hole 18 on the outside connector
holder, X257/18,30 and tape it up. As usual, youll need to slide the inner part of the connector to the side
slightly, to free the pin.
30
Connector and wire listing format is: wire connector number / pin number, primary wire color / secondary wire color;
wire cross section in mm2; sometimes number of connector pins; connector color.
31
Note that the wiring diagrams show a 2.5 mm wire upstream of this connector for memory E34s, and only a 1.5 mm
wire for non-memory ones. That would seem to indicate a larger wire was needed for this circuit (that section only leads to
the memory mirror heaters), but this is belied because in both memory and non-memory vehicles the wire leading into this
connector is down to 1.0 mm. So using the existing car wiring doesnt appear to be a problem.
2010 Marcus Corbin 161
E34 Factory Options Guide Chapter 11
Now for the tricky part. It was exceedingly difficult to get the door connector halves back together while
ensuring the small connector halves within it mated and stayed connected. This was because the outer portion
or shell of the non-memory connector does not come with the normal locking mechanism to hold the small
connectors in place while the outer shell and large connector were pushed together unlike the outer shell on
the memory-E32 that I got the memory wires from. (The connectors used with memory from the factory
should have a bright blue locking piece that slides in from the side, on at least the inner half. You can see the
holes in the shell where the locking piece slides in. If you can find that piece or what its part number is, good
job.) The best solution is probably to find the outer shell and connectors from an E34 with memory, because
they would have locking tabs to hold the small connector in place (the E32 shell is quite different than the
E34s, so it wont work). Part numbers for many of the large wiring connectors are not easy to find on the
ETK, so a donor car may be the only option, though not a great one since memory E34s are so rare.
If you get the right connector, you would need to correctly transfer the pins from existing connector on the car
to the new connector. If you cannot obtain the shell/connectors from an E34 with memory, do one of the
following methods to mate the connector halves.
Although it seems like it would be more work, in fact the second-best option (after obtaining the right parts)
also avoids the tricky part of the reinstall. This is to take off the door! Its surprisingly easy, and does not need
door re-aligning. The main thing is to be very careful lifting off the door and moving it around so you dont
scratch the paint on it or the car.
Undo the bolts on one end of each hinge pin. Knock out the door brake pin (some models have a securing clip
too).
Once you have a working mirror, put the rubber and its brace back over the outer connector portion and
carefully insert the mated connectors in the mounting hole, making sure you dont jostle the inner connectors
and dont separate them by accident. Test operation again once the connectors are mounted.
If for some reason youd rather not take off the door, you can attempt mating up everything without doing so.
Try, using a bracing finger on the back of each small connector (reaching a hand far into the cavity in the
footwell sheet metal for the inside connector), to mate up the shells and two connectors.
Then insert the outer connector in position in the hole in the door frame. With the inner small harness still
through the inner connector, reach inside the footwell cavity and mate the small connector to the male-male
converter piece, making sure with your other hand that the outer connector doesnt slip backwards. Finally,
bring up the inner connector and maneuver it around until it slips over the inner small connector and then
mates with the outer larger-connector pins. It might take a lot of patience, but they should eventually mate up
in position.
Re-secure the rubber hose and grommet to the door jamb and the door front edge.
Now back to the supplementary harness on the door: re-wrap the branches with friction tape, as desired. To
reproduce the factory method, start from the connectors and work inwards. The nylon braided hose can
usefully go around the wires by the hole into the door panel, where it could help against chafing.
Insert the new harness through the old rubber door-panel grommet (put the grommet flaps toward the interior
of the door, that is, toward the outside of the car); its possible you might need to take off the connector, put
the wires through the grommet, and reattach it on the other side.
Then thread the harness up through the door panel and out the hole to the outside of the door, and connect
to the memory mirror connector. Using your three hands, put the rubber covers in place on the connector
while holding the mirror to prevent it banging anything. As youve noticed, the non-memory mirror harness
connects on the door panel inside the car; the memory harness connects next to the mirrors. Making sure the
wires, packing, and studs all dont impede the mirror seating, bolt on the memory mirror.
Now zip tie the supplementary harness to the door panel, using the old harnesss clips and its attachment
points as a guide. Check the back of the removed door panel to see where it might conflict with your routing
of the supplementary harness, and
test fit the panel as necessary. Make
sure the new wires will not ever
stray in the path of the toothed
regulator section visible in the
picture, or other moving window
parts. Run the window up and
down, while being ready to halt it
quickly if needed, to see the wide
area the toothed piece and other
parts travel in.
Plug in the grommet on the door interior surface for the harness going up to the mirror. Reattach the
speaker/trim and door panel, remembering to attach the door handle cable first.
Test operation with the seat in the car but not bolted down, in case you have some troubleshooting to do. Plug
the supplementary harness into the X275 connector and slide them under the air ducts below the carpet.
Test the seat operation. Note that you should not push at all hard on the seat memory switch buttons, since
some people have had trouble with the underlying circuit board getting dislodged inside the switch assembly.
When everything works, bolt in the seat (32 ft-lb) and seatbelt (35 ft-lb) with the E14 bolts.
This option was not generally available on U.S. E34s, perhaps it appeared
on the M5 and the late 540i Sport. It is, however, an easy and nifty
retrofit, particularly since it appears that the wiring loom is in place already Project Profile
if the seats are electric or heated. For those of us who enjoy good lower-
back support, this device can help noticeably on long drives.
Coolness: &&&
Utility:
The switches (to adjust the support out and in) are tucked away in Difficulty:
recesses on the side of the seat near the handbrake, aft of the heated seat Time:
switch. Cost: sss
The option is available for the front passenger seat too.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Lumbar support 2 52 10 8 102 291 $196
Switch For lumbar support; bulbs are often burned out 2 61 31 1 378 381 $38
Wiring harness Probably only needed for manual, non-heated 2 61 12 8 350 203 $73
seats
Total cost (new): $468
Total cost (used): $200
Einbauanleitung
Lumbar Support, 8/92, 01 29 9 781 298
Installation
The steps are:
In contrast to what the EBA says, I did not find it necessary to remove the seat from the car; I had little
difficulty performing the steps with the seat in place. The EBA says to remove the seat, probably in order to
remove the side trim of the seat and install the lumbar switch, but I was able to install the switch without
removing the side trim.
Given the choice, you may not want to remove the seat, because when I did for another project, I created a
little seatback rock that was not there before. Alternatively, if youre installing memory or seat heating, the seat
base and seatback come out anyway.
Insert the large pin on the right of the lumbar bracket into the pre-existing hole in the seatback frame, and
insert the locating lug on the left. The EBA text makes the left-side installation sound more complicated than it
is in some cases on my car I didnt need to move whatever lever it was talking about.
The part number for the securing Torx screw is not readily identified, but extensive digging elsewhere was
rewarded with a listing of 52 10 1 954 098.
Connect the black 2-pin connector of the seatback harness to the matching connector from the lumbar
mechanism and slide both onto the dual connector holder.
Finito. Test the operation of the support, not forgetting to turn on the exterior lights and check that both sides
of the switch are illuminated my brand new switch from the factory had one of the two bulbs out, reportedly
the bulbs often are non-functional.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Moonroof get sliding sunshade too; used price 1 52 10 8 102 291 $400600
Einbauanleitung
None
Installation
Slide the sunroof two-thirds of the way back so that you can stick your head part way up through the sunroof
opening. Look backwards at the front edge of the sunroof. Spot two black plastic clips that grip pins, one near
each side of the sunroof. Release the clips from the pins by spreading the clip arms out. Slide the shade back.
Enjoy gazing at the moon through your very rare moonroof (hopefully not too much while driving).
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Cover New trim plate that holds socket 1 51 16 1 928 708 $7
Plug Fills holes for seat heater switches in trim plate 2 64 11 1 368 498 $4
Power outlet socket ( 1/91) 1 61 34 1 367 690 $8
Power outlet socket (1/91 ) 1 61 34 8 350 958 $8
Lighter element 1 61 34 1 375 967 $16
Clamping bush for lighter Holds on bulb socket 1 61 34 1 362 968 $8
Bulb socket 1 64 11 1 366 170 $2
Bulb 1.2W 1 63 21 7 167 000 $2
Wiring Get from donor car
Total cost (new): $55
Total cost (used): $15
Einbauanleitung
None
Description
The rear power outlet / cigar lighter, and even the underlying wiring, seems rare in U.S. E34s, perhaps never
installed from the factory in anything but the early years. The wiring may be obtained from a donor E32. Use
the wire connector removal tool (see Accessories and Other Options chapter) on the donor car to release a
wire in the drivers footwell connector.
Installation
Start by disconnecting the battery the power outlet circuit is always hot!
Take out the panel at the rear of the center console and take off the center console (see electric rear sunshade
chapter).
Remove the door sill covers for the left doors and also the right rear door, lift up the carpet, and remove the
wire channels in the rear passenger footwells and along the left door sills.
If youre in luck and you probably wont be on a U.S. car there will be another rd/wi/ye wire on the other
half (front-of-the-car, fuse-box side) of the connector. That wire is spliced, in the front fuse box, onto a wire of
the same colors that goes to the front power socket. So if you dont have the rd/wi/ye wire coming out of the
front-of-the-car side of your X14 connector, you can connect the wire youve brought forward to the circuit
that goes to the front power socket my wire had enough length to reach, anyway. Check the wiring diagrams
to see what is being described.
Pin 20 extracted from the connector. (Note that in this picture the inner portion of the connector has been removed from
the outer portion its better just to slide it sideways.)
Alternatively you could just splice those wires together away from the connector, but I think the merge at the
pin is a neater, more original-looking installation.
You could also run the wire from the rear to X14, as in the factory layout, and then run a new wire from that
X14/19 pin to the X15/20 pin and you would need to do so if your wire from the rear isnt long enough to
reach X15. Similarly, if you do happen to have the rd/wi/ye wire coming out of the front side of X14 in your
car, you would simply insert the wire you brought forward from the rear power outlet into pin X14/19.
32
The manual says to use devices only up to 200 Watts, for the front socket alone.
Some European E34s were fitted with factory sunshades that were
integrated wonderfully with the door panels. The larger shade is recessed
into the top of the door panel, and the quarter shade is recessed into a Project Profile
new trim for the small pillar between the main and quarter windows. Coolness: &&&&
The shades can be fairly easily retrofitted, with only two drawbacks: cost of Utility:
the parts, and that for a perfect installation a slightly different and Difficulty:
nearly unobtainable or prohibitively expensive door panel (or the top strip Time:
of the panel) is required. The good news is that, with a little internal Cost: sss
cutting, and relocation of the door lock knob, the regular panels will work
quite well.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Sunblind for main window 1 ea. 51 16 1 973 681 $89
and -682
Hook for main blind 4 51 16 1 973 901 $2
Cover for hooks above 4 51 16 1 973 905 $2
Clamp for chrome trim strip 8 51 21 8 107 857 $1
Screws for shade roller 8
Body nut speed nut for roller 8 07 12 9 925 708? ~$1
Sunblind for quarter window 1 ea. 51 16 8 102 455 $94
and -456
Hook for quarter blind 2 51 16 1 946 206 $1
Cover for hooks above 2 51 16 1 964 319 $2
Screw for hooks above 2 51 16 1 948 970 <$1
or 07 11 9 907 939
or #8 x 1/2 sheet metal screw
Support for quarter blind, lower 2 51 42 1 969 335 $2
Support for quarter blind, upper 1 ea. 51 16 1 978 155 $2
and -156
Square nut to hold quarter blind top 2 07 11 9 921 412 <$1
Screw for quarter blind top 2 M4, short, 5mm or so <$1
Cover for screw above 1 ea. 51 16 8 117 743 ~$1
and -744
Lever for door lock knob 1 ea. 51 22 8 102 965 $1
and -966
Total cost: $390
Note: Optionally, if you dont want to cut the holes in the existing black window-surround trim, new trim with pre-cut holes is available, 51 34 8 138 881 and -882, $56 ea.
Einbauanleitung
Rear side window roller blind, 1/90, 01 29 9 783 611
Installation
Some special tools are useful for this project:
A very sharp hobby knife for cutting the door panel fiberboard
A reciprocating saw can speed up certain fiberboard cuts
A circular saw is handy for cutting the slots for the speed nuts holding the roller
Closeup of a clip.
I struggled mightily to find the mystery trim strip shown in EBA picture F34 51195. Never found the part
number, wasnt in the ETK that I could see, perhaps it only came in the retrofit kit. Happily, but strangely, it
doesnt seem to be important, certainly its not needed for the shades to function.
Step 5. Cut slot for roller and screw/nut holes in door panel
The regular door panel seems to be virtually identical to the one for the sunblinds. The only differences I could
detect were that the latter has a projected area that sticks into the cabin a wee bit for the slightly different
location of the door lock lever (which now has to bypass the rolled-up sunblind), and it has slots/holes cut for
the roller-attaching screws. The regular panel has the same raised portions where those slots/holes go, which
helps in making this way of installing the panels feasible.
Step 6. Cut backing off door panel near slot; fold and glue
The door panel includes two layers at the top, both of which need a slot cut in them for the roller. The topmost
layer has outer decorative plastic on top of the fiberboard. The layer seems to be glued onto the underneath
layer only at each end. If it comes off, some of these cuts are easier, and it can be glued back on later.
If you managed to obtain just the top layer of the door panel the piece with the appropriate projection for
the door lock knob you would now take off the original piece and glue on your new one.
If not, do some more cutting: I very carefully sliced between the plastic and fiberboard with a sharp knife, then
cut off only the fiberboard, allowing the plastic to be folded over and glued underneath, making a neater-
looking installation. Use a metal sheet or something between the fiberboard and plastic when cutting the
fiberboard away so you dont accidentally cut through the plastic covering too. I used superglue to attach the
folded-underplastic seems to be holding so far. I used a row of large binder clips to hold the plastic in place
while the glue was setting.
Finished!
If you didnt use the factory sunshade door panels, well done for your craftsmanship in adapting the non-
sunshade ones. If you did, still a fairly big job!
Your kids and other rear-seat passengers will appreciate the shades on long, sunny trips.
In the United States, armrests with compartments did not come on the
E34s, apart from the whole fixed-console construct in the M5s that had the
two-rear-passenger seat. Again, the E32s come to our rescue: they usually Project Profile
had one of two storage-bin armrest designs.
Coolness: &&&&
The stowage in the rear armrest is particularly useful since the E34 rear Utility:
doors normally do not have storage bins on them.33 Difficulty:
Time:
Although the ski sack can be used with the armrest in place, its probably Cost: ss
better to remove the armrest, which these designs make easy. In one case,
there is a quick-release mechanism on the armrest bracket that releases the
armrest from the seat. That mechanism has latches that slide into braces on the seatback.
In the other case, the armrest can be pulled out of its bracket, which is bolted to the seatback and stays in
place.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Whole armrest and bracket used price 1 ~$100
bolts, nuts, washers, split lock washers, spacers; $10
attaching hardware
M6 or M5 size
Sample armrest part
numbers
Armrest, upper, leather 1 52 20 8 141 686 $508
Euro M5 9/91 ; E32: 12/90 ; silver gray
one-button type
Armrest, upper, leather; 1 52 20 8 162 914 $353
530i, 540i; 9/92 ;
one-button type
Armrest, upper, leather; two- 1 52 20 1 951 593 $508
E32, 9/90 ; usually gray, not light silver gray
button type
Armrest, upper, leather; two- 1 52 20 8 143 723 $503
E32, 9/9012/90
button type
Bracket (quick-release type) E32, 12/90 1 52 30 1 951 191 $38
Oddments trays for rear doors 1 ea. 51 16 8 150 953 $88
and -954
Body nut 5mm 4 51 41 8 108 117 <$1
Total (used) cost: $110
Einbauanleitung
None
Description
There were two main kinds of storage armrests used on the E32 applicable to the E34.
33
In theory, there actually were small rear door bins for the E34, but I have never, ever seen one. The only way I found
out about them was by poring over the parts catalog. There, they have the fun part name oddments trays and are simply
bolted onto the door panel. Needless to say, the parts are no longer available from the factory, if they ever were.
2010 Marcus Corbin 201
E34 Factory Options Guide Chapter 16
Installation
Either type of armrest can be used for the E34, but they both require minor modifications to the seatback. The
early type needs a pair of the factory braces bolted to the seatback, the late type needs a pair of hardware-
store plates bolted on.
In my case the early-type armrest, which I preferred, was exceedingly rare in my cars light silver grey color.
You may or may not be able to get your preferred type in the right color. I obtained both types (see picture
earlier). Check the ETK to find which years your color was available, although in my case it didnt appear to
be quite right, as far as the colors went.
To install, take out the rear seatback (see rear headrest chapter). Put the armrest and bracket in place on the
seatback in order to mark cuts and drill holes. Cut the leather on the back of the seatback frame; make a flap
so that either the factory braces or hardware-store plates, as appropriate, can be bolted flush to the frame
metal. Line up the braces or plates, and mark the drill hole locations on the back of the frame. Take out the
armrest and bracket again, and drill bolt holes for the braces or plates. Then bolt on the respective pieces.34
Early-Type Armrest
The screw-in braces used for the E34
armrest are somewhat longer than the
welded-on braces used in some E32s,
so they push the top of the armrest
forward a bit in the raised position. A
solution is to use spacers backing
plates, washers, or the like between
the braces and the back of the
seatback frame, to move the braces
back about 3/8 relative to the frame.
(The braces will then push the bottom
of the seatback forward a bit relative to
the bulkhead behind the seatback, but
not an unworkable amount.)
Brace bolted onto seatback frame, with
early-type armrest bracket in place. There
are spacers underneath the brace plate, not
visible from this angle.
34
In the original installation, the braces screw into threads tapped into the seatback frame and into reinforcement metal
welded behind the frame: threads now tapped only in the thin frame metal are probably not enough to secure the braces.
Late-Type Armrest
Bolt the bracket to the hardware-
store plates you have already
attached to the seatback, using the
threaded holes on the bracket and
the M6 bolts with washers that came
with it.
Now that youve completed this retrofit, enjoy your rear-seat luxurious ambiance, and the handy extra storage
space.
This add-on is useful not just for skis, of course, but for 2x4s, tall CD
towers, etc., etc., that are too long for the passenger compartment. The Project Profile
armrest and the ski sack itself can be taken out and put back in easily.
Junkyard U.S. E32s seem to have them not too infrequently. The sack has Coolness: &
a zipper along part of it, so that things that are even longer than the sack Utility:
+ trunk can be carried, though they might start to interfere with gearshift Difficulty:
and handbrake. Time:
Cost: s
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Ski bag goes through rear seatback 1 72 60 1 969 209 $186
Cover the ski-sack plastic frame 1 72601964519 ~$16
Bracket quick-release bracket for armrest 1 52 20 1 978 002 $29
Bow the braces that the latches on the armrest bracket hold 2 52 20 1 978 009 $9
on to
Countersunk head screw M6x12 4 52 10 1 817 063 <$1
Trunk partition trim panel can also just cut the old one; two pieces in the new set 1 51 47 8 181 478 ~$80
Total cost (new): $331
Total cost (used): $70
Einbauanleitung
Ski Bag, 12/97, 01 29 9 787 597
Installation
The basic process is:
Happy skiing!
Some European E34s were fitted with rear seat headrests. Ive never
heard of a U.S. E34 with them from the factory, but the good news is
that the identical parts were used on U.S. E32s (the earliest E32s used Project Profile
an incompatible design). To me, the E34, and most other modern
cars, look unbalanced without the rear headrests not to mention the
Coolness: & & &
danger that the glaring omission poses to the necks of rear seat Utility:
occupants in a high-speed rear-end collision. Difficulty: (manual)
(power)
Some of the E32 headrests were motorized, which makes a Time: (manual)
particularly fun retrofit. The installation descriptions below first cover (power)
the non-powered, then the powered, versions.
Cost: s (manual)
sss (power)
Holes are pre-cut in the sheet metal and seat foam for the headrest
brackets and attaching screws, so the non-powered job is pretty easy.
The installation does involve cutting a couple of slits in the leather on the rear seats seatbacks, so this is a
one-way retrofit.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Non-powered
Rear headrest get from a junkyard; used price with covers 2 52 20 8 148 402 $20
and brackets
Cover goes up inside headrest; light silver gray 2 52 20 8 116 401 $17
Cover goes between headrest itself and seat top; 2 52 20 8 116 422 $15
light silver gray
Cover rests on top of seat; light silver gray 2 52 20 8 116 434 $11
bracket to hold headrest 1 ea. 52 20 8 102 717 $21
Guide
and -718
Screw attaches bracket to speednut/bulkhead 6 07 11 9 916 939 <$1
Speed nut goes on trunk bulkhead behind seatback 2 07 12 9 925 735 <$1
Total (used) cost: $50
Powered
Motor 2 52 20 8 181 160 ~$160
Control module 1 61 31 1 378 639 ~$100
Switch 2 61 13 1 379 078 ~$36
Switch trim light silver grey 2 52 20 8 140 438 ~$10
has a switch for headrest operation 1 ea. 72 11 8 107 607 ~$38
Seatbelt latch
and -608
Wiring wiring harness 1 61 12 8 355 184 ~$72
this alternative harness from e32s works, 1 8 350 728
though seat heating connectors might need
changing
Wiring smaller harness for underside of seat base 1 61 12 1 382 636 ~$160
Relay yellow 1 61 31 1 378 301 ~$10
Additional cost to $830
power (new):
Additional cost to $200
power (used):
Einbauanleitung
Rear head restraints for BMW 5 Series (E34), 8/90, 01 29 9 783 899 (covers non-powered only)
Manual Headrests
Installation
Steps include:
Done, wunderbar! See the end of the chapter for a picture of the final product.
Power Headrests
Description
Adding power to the rear headrests is not too complicated, everything is bolt-in assuming the underlying
wiring is present. There appears to be no EBA on electric rear headrests, although there is one on the manual
ones.
To find out if the underlying wiring is present, look underneath the rear seat base, on the front wall of the
seatwell, to the right front of the rear fuse box. Hopefully there is a white four-pin connector there, (X337 on
an E32) piggybacked on top of a black six-pin connector (the latter is for the electric sunshade).
The headrest supplementary wiring harness, which connects the power headrest system components to each
other, attaches to this underlying wiring. If the underlying wiring is not present, consult the factory wiring
diagrams (including E32 ones) to install appropriate new wiring only three wires come to the connector, so
not too much is involved.
The seatbelt latches have an internal switch that indicates to the control module whether a seat is occupied
(i.e., seatbelt is latched), and if so the module automatically raises the headrest; when a seat is unoccupied, the
control module lowers the headrest to improve the drivers rear view.
The two wiring harnesses are illustrated in the next picture. The shorter one, on the right, is attached to the
bottom of the seat base.
Rear headrest and seat-heating harnesses, with the attachment points for each connector labeled.
Note that the illustration of the E34 layout and connectors in the ETK appears to be a modification of the E32
illustration, and does not give an entirely accurate picture of the E34 setup. If youre getting parts from a
donor E32, bear in mind that there were two wiring set-ups on the E32, one for the (-iL) cars with individually-
adjustable rear seats, and one for those with the fixed one-piece bench (-iL or -i). (Yes, the -iLs had so much
room in the rear that the seatbacks could be reclined and the seat bases moved forward!)
Switches for the headrests on the E34 go to a similar location at the front corners of the rear seat base cushion,
on a small trim plate.35
The system requires a relay; unfortunately I could not confirm which part number it is. In certain E32 setups,
the relay is a yellow one, part number 61 31 1 378 301. One source lists 61 36 1 389 105. I used a Bosch
orange relay with a standard basic relay circuit, Bosch part number 033 201 4458.
Installation
The steps are:
1. Take off seat base and seatback
2. Lay wiring harness
3. Install switches
4. Attach motors and brackets
5. Replace seatbelt latches
6. Affix relay holder
7. Install control module connector
8. Make connections
9. Reinstall seatback, headrests, seat base
35
Potentially the switches could also be placed in the rear end of the center console, above the driveshaft tunnel and below
the console vents (wiring length may need to be adjusted). A substitute trim plate for the rear of the console (originally
available for the E32 or M5) neatly holds two switches (left and right controls plus a rear power outlet; see that chapter),
so either the rear electric headrest controls or the rear seat heater switches can be installed there. But it might be useful to
have the electric seat heater switches in the intended center console spot, such that their illumination reminds the
occupants the heaters are on, so best to locate the headrest switches there only if there is no seat heating. If the old console
trim plate had the alarm LED and glass breakage sensor in it, its best to relocate them forward to the alternate (and
superior) position on the dash using the extension wires in the relevant kit (see the section in the Other Options chapter).
Take out the white and black plastic rivets, and take off
the wire channel covers in the footwell. In my case, the
pins in the white rivets could be levered out, carefully,
without too much difficulty, but some of the black ones
were impossible. Even mangling some of the pins in
trying to lever or pull them out did not loosen them,
and after an hours work I had to remove the battery
and (literally) hammer the pins out from inside the
seatwell frustrating that such a simple piece could
work so poorly. When I reinstalled new pins, I cut
substantial portions of the pin shafts away to reduce the
diameter so the pins wouldnt bind so much.
Two plastic rivets are at top edge of wire channels (center and
upper left of the picture.
Upper plastic rivet. Pin is pulled out part way to release rivet.
36
That is, according to brochure photographs, consistency with the window switches, and my installation. However, a
German owners manual shows one with the solid white arrow pointing down was switch rocker itself upside-down?
Rear screw.
headrest motors,
seatbelt latches,
relay,
vehicle harness,
control module,
Most of the U.S. E34s came with a basic rear interior light on the c-pillars
that could not be switched on independently of the other interior lights.
This creates a real problem when rear seat passengers try to read at night, Project Profile
because the whole interior has to be lit up. This is distracting for the driver,
particularly because of the front interior light by the rearview mirror, and
Coolness: &&
upsets night vision. Utility:
Difficulty:
The factory, however, made another rear interior light unit that has a Time:
separately-switched true reading light. No doubt the accounting or Cost:
s
marketing department made the case, but one would have thought that
the cost of carrying separate parts would outweigh the small savings of
omitting a second light and a couple of contacts (the wiring for both bulb circuits in the dual unit appears to be
in all of the U.S. cars, whether or not they have the dual light unit installed), and would outweigh the benefit
of creating model separation from the E32, which had the dual lights, given what a relatively minor matter it is.
Anyway, this lacuna is easily remedied with purchase of the appropriate dual-light units. The one trick is that
there were at least three different wiring connectors on the assemblies: a single white connector up to 7/89
(perhaps European models only), two white connectors up to 9/91, and a single rectangular black connector
after 9/91.
Early, mid, and late dual rear interior light units showing the different wiring connectors.
Note that theres a retrofit EBA for the front separately-switched reading light panel, too, but U.S. cars always
had it already.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Interior rear lights with reading lamp this part number fits the last of the three 1 ea. 63 31 8 355 037 $44
different connectors and -038
(light silver gray)
used cost $5
Total (used) cost: $10
Einbauanleitung
Reading lamp, 12/89, 01 29 9 783 023 (rear lights)
Installation
The installation is plug-and-play. Pull off the weatherstrip around the door opening near the c-pillar trim
panels. The weatherstrip is on tightly, but theres no glue.
Disconnect the old lights wire connector and remove it from the panel. Install and connect the new light.
Reinstall the c-pillar panels.
This came in two versions, manual and electric. For the electric one, a
potential problem with stripping gears has been noted on the internet. At Project Profile
the end of this chapter is a special supplement showing how to fix the
problem. The installation description here covers the electric version. The Coolness: &&&&
manual installation is similar, but obviously a lot simpler, and is covered in Utility:
its own EBA. Difficulty:
Time:
The electric shade switch goes on the little tray at the rear of the center
Cost: sss
console, between the front seatbacks, slightly reducing the size of the tray.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Electric sun blind supplementary set includes supplementary wire harness 1 51 46 9 060 596 $562.50
Wiring, sun blind on the basis of the ETK picture, this 1 61 12 9 402 134
number is for the adapter harness only
used if car is not pre-wired
Parcel shelf with third brake light 1 51 46 8 137 884 $159
(light silver gray)
Switch covering goes on top rear of center console 1 51 16 8 138 420 $51.09
Circlip for switch covering 2 72 16 1 858 017 < $1
Total cost (new): $774
Total cost (used): $280
Einbauanleitung
Electric Roller Sun Blind for Rear Window, 4/93, 01 29 9 783 611
Installation Instructions for Roller Sun Blind, 11/92, 01 29 9 786 640 (manual)
Even if the underlying vehicle wiring is not present, the EBA gives instructions on how to modify the existing
wiring so the supplementary harnesses can be attached. That modification is easiest if the full accessory kit
Overview
The steps are as follows:
Step 6. Cut holes for shade switch; install cover, console, and switch
A rare note here: the EBA didnt match up with the parts I had. The EBA calls for the shade to be located
300mm from the front edge of the shelf. This was not possible with my shade given the length of the bolt slots
on the shade. The closest I could get at first was about 305mm.
Nor did the slots allow use of the method mentioned in the EBA to change the angle of the shade. There
seemed to have been an intention to use the front-to-back location of the shade to raise/lower the back of the
shade, by means of an angled portion of the shade metal (you probably have to look at it to see how that
geometry works). Thus raising/lowering the back of the shade would in theory obtain the correct shade angle
and shade contact point on the rear window when the shade was extended. But its not clear how the nuts
were supposed to be tightened onto the resulting non-flat shade surface.
I drilled out longer slots to get the shade closer to the specified 300mm, but in that position the shade was too
far forward in the car, and the retracting arms caught the shade material against the front of the shade slot,
stalling the motor. Locating the shade further back pretty much solved that problem, but my shade did not
contact the window when the top of the shade is 1015cm from the side as specified. Note that there appears
to be a mistranslation in the EBA; the English version implies 1015 cm from the top edge of the window, but
from the top side of the window makes more sense. Since I couldnt adjust the angle, my shade rested just off
the window when opened, rather than touching it. But it didnt bang about when driving.
Shade in place.
Step 12. Test shade and measure its location per EBA
Connect the battery (run the engine
if you move the shade more than a
couple times so as to not run down
the battery) and give it a whirl. See
where and whether the shade
contacts the glass, per the EBA (see
above regarding the 1015 cm
specification). Note the rubber
wheels on the end of the shade that
let the shade roll along the window
(make sure you have them!).
Unfortunately, the design or material of the gear train was faulty, and the sunshades can all too often strip a
gearwheel. But fortunately, repair is possible; it is easy with an aftermarket part; and is only a little harder with
refurbishment of the original part. The problem is common enough that copies of the troubled gear were sold
on eBay.de, made out of steel rather than the original aluminum, and also a write-up is available on the web
showing how to alter the original gear to make it work (using undamaged sections of the gearwheels
circumference that are not initially in use).
Repair is as follows.
Transfer the spring, making sure to preserve the springs correct orientation. It can easily be installed upside-
down. (Ask me how I know.) If so, youll probably know it when the assembled shade is operated and extends
slowly and only part way, because the motor is fighting the spring, and then retracts double-speed, because
the motor is getting an abnormal boost from the spring. Through my own experience, I believe the otherwise
superb instructions and helpful drawing at the evansweb.info website are actually incorrect when it comes to
the orientation of the spring. It is easy to get the orientation wrong because for some reason the gear design
has a neat notch for the spring on both sides of the spring stop.
Think through everything as youre doing it, to see how things move and interact. The descriptions here can
be hard to follow without seeing the parts in front of you. It should be clearer once you do have them.
Its helpful for a later step to mark on the top (hex-bolt-side) of the gearwheel where the cut-out portion of the
teeth are.
If refashioning the old gear rather than using a replacement one, do so according to the instructions at
evansweb.info.
Reinstall everything.
Getting the new gear and spring in place in the gearbox is a little difficult because of the springs positioning.
Try moving/squeezing the spring through the hole in the gear when the wheel is in the gearbox and ready to
slide into final position.
Once the wheel is in place, use a wrench on the hex axle again to rotate it clockwise until the cut-away portion
of the teeth clears the stop-screw location, hold it there and screw in the stop screw. For your reference, note
that this end stop position is actually close to the extended position of the shade and gearwheel. The wheel
will rotate further clockwise up to, or close to, the other end stop in order to be in the retracted position.
Reinstall the smaller brown gear, lining up the various teeth and the rack and pinion, then put on the gearbox
cover. Be careful with the three small allen-head bolts, one of mine was stripped.
Getting the smaller gear axle pin to line up with its socket in the gearbox cover when putting on the cover can
also be a little tricky it can help to move the main gear around a bit at the same time, or nudge the pin into
place with a thin screwdriver while pushing down on the cover.
Because of the relative positions of the various end stops, crank arms, and crank arm wheel, I found it a little
difficult to mount up the crank arms on their pivot pins. The following is one unobvious way to do it: before
putting the crank arm wheel on the hex axle, put the crank arms on the pivot pins the crank wheel should be
above/near, but not on, the hex axle end; then manually pull the shade roughly half way up; apply battery
power to the motor leads, rotating the still-free hex axle (still not mated into the crank wheel) clockwise; then
place the crank wheel on the hex axle end and slowly rotate the hex axle end either direction until the hex
socket on the crank wheel and the hex axle line up and the crank wheel falls into place. Be careful not to short
your battery/ground leads while applying power to the motor wires. Screw in the countersunk allen head bolt.
I used a little Wrth Sebasto 2000 lube in the channels at the top of the shade where the sliding arms go.
Dont get it on the shade material itself, or put so much that it later drips onto the material. The shade should
now extend quietly, smoothly, and moderately quickly up and down.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
CD changer Pioneer CDX-M91ZBM or CDX-M83ZBM 1 82 11 1 467 700 $811
Alpine TR-1600 or TR-1008 1 82 11 1 468 014 $557
used price ~$100
Mounting parts set 1 65 12 9 059 415 $26
Cover, CD changer Pioneer a nice fabric case that matches the trunk trim 1 82 11 1 468 239 $85
fabric; used price; probably no longer available
new
Cover kit Pioneer 1 82 11 1 468 761
Cover, CD changer Alpine 1 82 11 1 466 580
CD magazine, 6-CD Pioneer holds 6 CDs 65 12 8 355 885 $10
Total (used) cost: $120
Einbauanleitung
None
Installation
The headunit-to-CD-player cable comes through the right side of the bulkhead at the front of the trunk, and
lies behind the trunk trim. The CD player usually mounts to the left ceiling of the trunk (or potentially on the
left side wall of the trunk, particularly for the M5). In my case the changer was attached in a curiously
complicated arrangement using no less than three mounting plates.
The CD connectors changed over time, so not all changers are compatible with all head units or vehicle
models. According to a reliable source, after early 91 both trunk CD players either from Alpine or from
Pioneer are compatible with either head unit (Pioneer KE-83ZBM or Alpine CM5908). Before that, however,
the player and head unit must match manufacturers. The Pioneer CD player is distinguished by a magazine
door that folds down, whereas the Alpine units door slides to the side. The manufacturer and version of the
head unit is discoverable on the unit display by pressing the "-" (the Mode minus key) and "PROG" buttons
simultaneously.
Note that a variety of different official factory radios from this era, including some later 1990s ones, can be
swapped in. The connector is usually the same. Some models only issued to Europe will also work. I switched
in a model that has the handy RDS feature (text display of station / song name, etc.). That installation was
plug-and-play.
Once the CD player is bolted in place as shown below, connect the wire connectors, load some CDs in the
magazine (upside-down for some magazines), and the player should be ready-to-go.
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Trunk storage bins 12 82 11 9 413 199 $49
Support tape rubber straps to hold down items in the trunk; fit into the 2 51 47 8 136 450 $4
socket holes in trunk carpeting
Trunk room net attaches to the pop-up rings on the trunk floor 1 51 47 2 263 168 $46
Trunk floor net judging by the picture in the parts catalog, this one fits into 1 51 47 2 237 812 $115
some kind of slots but the parts catalog is sometimes
inexact, using pictures from a different model
Trunk rubber mat has a lip to contain water and mud 1 82 11 9 413 394 $88
WeatherTech custom aftermarket version 1 40032 $110
Trunk nonskid mat no lip 1 82 12 9 413 180 $33
Wheel well tray goes inside the spare wheel 1 71 11 1 092 276 $13
Total cost: $226
Einbauanleitung
Stowage box, 1/89, 01 29 9 782 127
Bins
The trunk storage bins are containers with 34-tall sides similar to the permanent one at the right rear of the
trunk. They fit over included rails that secure to the side carpet, and can be taken on and off as needed. The
EBA shows a couple of locations for them, including at the left rear of the trunk and up against the front panel.
Tray
BMW supplies a nifty tray that fits in
the spare wheel well, making use of
otherwise wasted space. The wheel is
turned outside-face down, but it
shouldnt get scratched because it
rests on the tire not the rim.
Straps
Net
Mats
This trunk mat is useful for muddy
and really wet stuff, since it has a
high lip. The mat is custom molded
to the E34 trunk. This particular
one is not a factory product, the
factory one is no longer available,
but it is so close to the original that
it may have been the OEM-
supplied item.
These are required in some parts of Europe where fog is extremely thick
more often than in the United States. They are very useful even in the Project Profile
United States, particular in highway rain, when cars and trucks kick up a
lot of spray. Too bad that, unlike for many options, the wiring is not Coolness: &&
already present. The U.S. light control module (LKM) does not seem to Utility:
have the required internal circuitry, either, so the installation here sets up a Difficulty:
separate circuit, in part. Time:
Cost: ss
Parts
Name Details Number Part no. Price
Switch for rear (and front) fog lights 1 61 31 8 351 238 $26
Rear lights in trunk lid European light clusters with holes for fog lights 1 ea. 63 21 1 384 011 $20
(used) and -012
Bulb socket same as backup and brake bulb sockets 2 63 21 8 355 883 $5
Bulb same as backup, brake, blinker bulbs; 21W 2 63 21 7 160 790 $3
Instrument cluster bulb 1.2W 1 62 13 1 383 311 $1
Fuse with inline holder; 5 amp., 2 amp. optional $5
Wire 18 ga., 24 ga. $15
Wire connectors white 1-pin connector, for male pin (female shell), 2 61 13 1 378 466 $1
(used price) 2 61 13 1 378 461 $1
white 1-pin connector, for female pin
(black, blue connectors also available)
Wire contacts (depending on wire sizes used): ~$10
wire contact, round, female, 0.51.0 mm 2 61 13 1 376 202
wire contact, round, male, 0.51.5 mm 2 61 13 1 376 191
wire contact, round, female, 1.02.5 mm 3 61 13 1 376 204
wire contact, small square, female 1
relay contacts 4 61 13 1 370 691
ring terminal 0.351 mm 1 61 13 8 353 763
ring terminal 2.56 mm 1 61 13 1 388 431
Relay e.g., diode relay 1 61 36 1 391 397 $15
Total cost (new and used): $130
Einbauanleitung
None
Preparations
The U.S. assemblies have the right shape for the fog lights, but, unusually, are not pre-cut for the lights, nor
pre-wired.
At first I was planning to alter my existing inner taillight assemblies to accept the fog lights, but it looked quite
challenging to cut the required shape neatly in the tough plastic, so I decided to just obtain used assemblies
from Europe. I highly recommend doing so, since theyre cheap, and the installation will be stock. But if you
want, you can try altering U.S. ones cut holes in the appropriate locations on the back of the lenses for the
fog bulb holders, similar to the other existing holes, and from a junkyard get some of the rigid wires with their
contacts that slide onto the back of the lens assemblies; cut and splice the wires to mimic the Euro wiring,
including the common ground. If your European light assembly didnt come with them, or youre making your
own, also pick up some bulb holders same as the reverse light or brake light ones.
Since this is not the factory installation, there is no official relay specified, but various ones from the factory
should work. The simplest relay circuit is all that is needed. You can often check the relay circuit by looking on
the side of the relay, where a circuit diagram is sometimes embossed or printed. It has been suggested to use a
relay with a diode to prevent backward current flow and arcing, so you could look for a relay with a circuit
diagram showing a diode triangle on the appropriate wire.
Installation
The next diagram shows the circuit to be installed, using some existing wire connectors, but also running some
new wires.
Disconnect the battery, take out the rear seat base and seatback. If not done already for some other job, open
up the plastic wire channels that run along the front and rear door sills on the left side of the car (see chapter
on memory seats or rear power outlet). Remove the pedal cover, lower dash-trim left panel around the
steering column, and dead pedal to access the under-dash wiring (see chapter on drivers glove box).
I could not find what the part number is for a new small square contact to fit in this connector. The contacts
are not one of the common two types: the common ones dont have a cutout in the side of the contacts where
the locking bar on this connector needs to slide. The easiest thing to do is just to get the same or a similar
connector with contacts and attached wires from a junkyard donor car. When you do, cut the wires well away
from the connector so you have long strands to work with. Open up the donor connector, slide out the locking
bar, push in an individual contacts locking tab (gently, theyre delicate), and ease the contact and its wire out.
Insert the contact in the appropriate slot of the connector in the car, making sure the tab locks it into place.
You might get some resistance, in which case try gently angling the contact to different sides until it slips past
the obstruction. Slide in the locking bar.
Crimp the contacts wire and the main wire going back to the rear relay holder to a butt joiner or a single-pin
connector, and join them to the wire coming from the fog-light switch. (Or, if you are putting in an inline fuse
holder, crimp the contacts wire and the main wire to the other end of that fuse holder.)
Put a 1.2 watt bulb in the socket on the back of the instrument cluster. Dont touch the glass with your fingers.
Reinstall the cluster in the dash.
Lay the main wire to the sill wire channel, and zip tie all the new wires under the dash as needed. Run the wire
along the door sill channels to the rear seatwell, through the hole at the bottom of the seatwell wall near the
transmission tunnel, and over to where you will attach your relay to the rear fuse box under the rear seat.
Crimp a relay contact to the end of the wire, and insert it into a factory relay connector, terminal 86 slot. (You
might need to check the relay itself to see what the terminal numbers are and hence the appropriate slot.)
Crimp a contact to one end of a short ground wire, and insert it in the terminal 85 slot. Crimp a ring terminal
on the other end of the wire and attach it at the nearby ground post.
Replace all the wire channel covers and trim pieces, including the steering column trims, if not already done.
Ausgezeichnet! Youre done with a beautiful install. Now pretend its a dark and foggy night. Turn on your
rear fogs (dont forget to turn on the parking lights) ...
Now enjoy not having tailgaters running into you on rainy days.
The license screw caps add a finishing-trim look to often-unsightly and rusted license-plate bolt heads. A few
colors are available. The caps may start to crack after a few years, so get extras.
Fog-Light Covers
Though regulations are often strict in Europe, the authorities there did not see the need to have additional
lighting on the side of these vehicles, in addition to the light that already comes from the corner light
assemblies, unlike in the United States. So European bumpers do not have the U.S. supplementary lighting in
the trims. Although the supplementaries do have a nice effect at night, the look of the car is more smooth and
classic without the lights. Check your national and local laws to see whether you must have the side marker
lights.
The bumper trims are removed by first taking out the side marker light assemblies (see chapter on underhood
light). Then the trims are slid straight forwards a little bit, in the case of the front ones, and backwards in the
case of the rear ones. Finally they are pulled out to the side.
The tire valve caps with factory logo are a nice touch, and add one more location to put the attractive roundel
design on the car.
Wheel Locks
The wheel locks use one special bolt per wheel; the bolt requires a matching adaptor in order to be turned.
The adaptor fits over the bolt into the matching pattern, and has the required hex head on the other end.
Fuses
The wide-angle mirror has two sections, with a small outer portion angled outwards more to reduce any blind
spot. The border between the two sections is barely visible as a thin line at the left of the mirror in the picture
above.
Probably standard in new U.S.-specification cars, the rechargeable glovebox flashlight is by now sometimes
missing.
This accessory has a cigar-lighter-style socket plug for powering various things. It plugs in where the flashlight
does, behind the glove box door.
It is convenient since one doesnt have to leave the ashtray open for access to the cigar lighter / power socket
there, nor have whatever is using that power socket stick out. With this adapter, the accessory can be left in the
glovebox (or even outside of it because the glovebox door can safely be closed over the protected wire).
Power adapter plugs into flashlight-charging socket behind glove-box door. Note the clear reinforcing plastic on the cord
that helps protect the wire when the glovebox door is closed over it.
Most of the E34s are equipped with perfectly functional but unluxurious straps to hold the glove box when its
open. Late models with airbag, however, sometimes replaced at least one of the straps with a small damper
strut. An M5 EBA (01 29 9 783 026) specifically describes a damper strut on the left and the normal strap on
the right, so thats probably the correct set-up. A strut will go on the right, after cutting away a bit of the
glovebox to make it fit, but clearance didnt seem to be full, and the glovebox closed rather stiffly.
The strut attaches to the same locations as the strap. Use the metal clip that held on the bottom of the strap for
the bottom of the damper too. Obtain hardware store bolts, spacers, lock washers, and nuts as necessary to
fashion a new attachment at the top. I used something that worked like a rivet, but the ends screw together.
Tape Cleaner
This replaces cigar-lighter heating elements useful to ward off a child burn, particularly for the rear seat area.
Keychain
This simple add-on is quite convenient for storing flat things. Best of all, it doesnt take up any room when it is
not in use. It is screwed onto the carpeting on the side of the center console, in the passenger footwell.
Einbauanleitung: 01 29 9 782 127, 1/89.
Cupholder
The cupholder viewed from the bottom: it fits over the edge of the console.
This cupholder was designed specifically for the E32 and E34.
Gear Knobs
The listing just gives a few samples of the options. Most knobs from the factory of this era and even later are
interchangeable, so the wide variety of knobs from other models provides candidates for installation too. The
knobs simply pull off, although they are on very tightly so much so that one has to be careful not to bang
into something, including ones face, when the knob finally breaks free from the shaft.
Coin Tray
Cassette storage box. A red dot (barely visible on furthest tray in the picture) appears when a cassette is in the tray. Tray
releases by pushing on the light gray button.
This holder has six pop-up slots for cassettes. It just stores just the cassettes, not their boxes.
This console cassette holder was available with a nice wood cover besides the normal colors. It has lighting in
the individual cassette trays, and connects to pre-wiring under the console.
The holder goes in the long cubby hole at the rear of the center console, parallel to the handbrake.
Unfortunately it seems to require cutting the console if the lighting is to be used. A wire pigtail goes from the
rear of the holder to a 2-pin connector underneath the console. If you dont want to mar the console, you
could cut the tabs off the holder at the rear, and take off the bottom light-carrier portion of the holder, so that
the holder will simply rest in the cubby hole. The front tab seems to pop over a special knob screwed in where
a screw normally is at the inside front of the cubby hole, but I havent been able to find the part number for
the knob.
To take off the old handle, the gaiter needs to come off, since its zip-tie also holds the leather grip. Take out
the base of the gaiter (see the chapter on rear sunshade installation) and pull the gaiter up, inside-out. Clip off
the zip-tie that is also holding the leather handbrake grip.
Then slide the old grip off the metal handbrake lever. Its on tightly, and there may be some glue too. Zip tie
the gaiter again, this time only over the lever. Then stick on an adhesive-backed foam spacer that your new
wood handle might have come with, and coax the new handle into place.
The blinking warning LED for the alarm (and the glass-breakage sensor) seem usually to be installed in the
rear end of the center console. The installation instructions also list another location, in the dash, however.
The problem with the rear location is that you dont see the blinking light when youre standing at the front
door to unlock the car, and if you forget that the alarm happens to be on, opening the door will set it off, at
least for my 92 alarm system. This only happens because of one of the few design peccadilloes of the car:
unlike for many more-recent models, using the key in the door lock to unlock the car does not turn off the
alarm.
Relocating the LED and sensor to the dash requires the extension cable that you run along door sills (or
unofficially along the center console) and up toward the fog-light switch.
Warning Triangle
The white peg at the top of the inner material clips the two raised triangle sides together.
Whats that long rectangular hole for in your trunk tool kit? For the Euro-spec warning triangle, which I have
never seen in the United States. According to one report of unknown accuracy, the Department of
Transportation wouldnt certify it because it wouldnt stand up to gale force winds. Whatever the case, it has
long metal legs at its base, so it is extremely sturdy. The U.S.-spec triangle does not fit in the tool kit.
Not to be confused with the Euro-spec under-seat first-aid kit, for which, see the relevant chapter.
Tool-Kit Cloths
Bulb Kit
The fuses and the top two bulbs in the picture were not in the original kit, but sockets were in place under the cover sheet
to hold them. Other spare locations to hold bulbs are also visible.
These pads support the trunk carpet over the spare wheel well. They go on the wheel hold-down bolt in the
center of the well. Theyre listed here since they often seem to be missing by now, although the cars with the
basketweave wheels probably use the hexagonal wheel center capremoving attachment instead. Although
not essential, since the carpet backing is pretty stiff, they do help with heavier loads.
Wire-Contact-Removing Tool
An invaluable tool anytime that taking individual wire contacts out of their connector plugs is needed, such as
in several of these chapters and in EBA procedures when a vehicle is not pre-wired for the accessory.
Note that, as well as the contacts being secured in their connectors, many of the connectors have an additional
locking mechanism. Often it is to slide one section of the connector to the side relative to another section, past
small locking tabs. Those mechanisms do not need a special tool.
Relay-Contact-Removing Tool
This tool is similar to the previous one. It frees the catches that hold wire contacts into relay holders or fuse
slots. It is used less often than the previous tool, but is useful for a couple of procedures in this guide. The
contacts can alternatively be released by using multiple jewelers screwdrivers coming in from multiple
directions, but this tool makes the job much easier.
The kink in the tool appears to be a useful improvement that allows you to test the jets aim point without
having to take the tool in and out of the nozzle each time you activate the washer to see where the spray hits.
Friction Tape
This is the kind of tape used to wrap wires in exposed areas like the engine bay.
Valve Tool
The contacts also have a standard outside shape and diameter for fitting into a variety of different connectors
the plastic shells that connect a group of wires together, ranging from 1-pin to at least 30-pin connectors. The
contacts are locked in to the connectors in two ways: the connector has one of several locking mechanisms,
and the contacts have locking tabs. The connector locks are released in several different ways, usually by
sliding an inner shell sideways a very small amount in relation to the outer shell. Look for a few small teeth
holding the shells in place to slide the shells, they have to be opened up enough to let the teeth pass each
other. Then the special contact-release tool is slipped over the contact and depresses the tiny tabs, so that the
contact can slip past the flange on the connector. See the previous appendix for more on the special tool.
Wires can be crimped onto a contact with the use of special crimping pliers. These pliers have a w-shaped
slot that curves the tangs of the contact over and down on top, separately, of both the plastic wire sheath and
the stripped end of the wire. The factory pliers cost hundreds of dollars. A professional nonfactory pair can
cost maybe $100-150, and would usually have replaceable crimping jaws. A pair without replaceable jaws that
produces an acceptable, but not quite professional, crimp can be had for $30-40, but are quite hard to find.
They are not the common crimpers / wire cutters that dont have the distinctive w-shaped slots and that are
mainly meant for crimping insulated contacts.
To merge a new wire onto an existing wire, an existing or new connector can be used. With an existing
connector, take out one of the relevant contacts using the release methods above, cut off the old contact, and
crimp both the old wire and a new wire into a new contact, usually with a larger wire-end size to accomodate
the two wires. Then insert the contact into the old connector hole, lock it into place, and join up the two
connector halves again.
To use a new connector, cut the original wire and add new contacts to each end of the cut. When crimping on
one of the new contacts, add in the new wire. Then insert the contacts in new connector halfs, and connect
them.
Alternatively, wires can be spliced together using a factory butt contact, covered with heat-shrink tubing rather
than a connector. This is probably better for wet and dirty areas, since the water/dirt-resistant contacts (see
below) cant always be applied in ways that eliminate the need for a non-connector splice. The butt contacts
are a single piece of metal rather than a male/female pair, and have a wire crimped on either end (see chapter
on the underhood light for an example).
Some of the very-low-current connectors use tiny square contacts rather than the larger 2.5 mm round-contact
system. Similar principles apply as above, with different connectors and release mechanisms, but crimping is
more difficult since the contacts are so miniscule. In such cases its usually easier to splice the wires together
rather than try to add new contacts (see the chapter on rear fog lights for an example).
Factory fuses have a similar type of contact, that is released by a different tool (see Appendix I), though there
are sometimes extra locking pins that the tool doesnt reach.
The round, larger contacts are by far the most common and can be readily removed and replaced in the
connectors using the contact-removal tool described above. They have a common pin-end size (2.5 mm) that
connects to the opposite-gender contact, but different wire-end sizes to match the wire or wires being crimped
on.
Wire Contacts
Shape M/F Wire already Wire size, Name Number
2
crimped on mm
ROUND
F 0.40.75 cable socket round 61 13 1 373 820
0.51.0 rundsteckh 61 13 1 376 202
1.02.5 rundsteckh 61 13 1 376 204
2.54.0 rundsteckh 61 13 1 376 206
M 0.40.75 circular connector 61 12 1 373 819
0.51.5 rundsteckkontakt 61 13 1 376 191
1.02.5 rundsteckkontakt 61 13 1 376 193
2.54.0 61 13 1 376 195
F y 0.51.0 61 13 0 007 449
y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 450
M y 0.51.0 61 13 0 007 452
y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 453
waterproof F y 0.51.0 rundsteckh 61 13 0 007 441
y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 442
L-shape y 0.51.0 61 13 0 007 445
L-shape y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 446
M y 0.51.0 rundsteckkontakt 61 13 0 007 443
y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 444
y 61 13 1 382 248
bent F 1.52.5 connector 61 13 1 376 224
y 0.51.0 61 13 0 007 470
y 1.02.5 61 13 0 007 472
1.52.5 61 13 1 376 224
SQUARE
AMP (with flange) F 0.20.5 bushing contact 61 13 0 005 197
0.75 61 13 0 006 663
M 0.20.5 61 13 0 005 198
0.75 61 13 0 006 664
Siemens (no flange) F 0.20.5 61 13 0 005 201
y 0.50.75 61 13 0 008 998
FUSE CONTACTS
0.51.0 double leaf spring contact 61 13 1 370 691
1.52.5 61 13 1 370 692
2.54.0 61 13 1 370 693
BUTT JOINERS
0.20.5 61 13 8 353 746
0.751.0 61 13 8 353 747
1.52.5 61 13 8 353 748
CABLE TERMINALS [ring terminals]
0.351.0 cable terminal A6 61 13 8 353 763
2.56.0 61 13 1 388 431
6.010.0 61 13 1 388 865
10.016.0 61 13 1 382 548
Sales Brochures
The usual glossy brochures were produced, covering different models, paint & upholstery, and accessories, by
year. They are useful to see what equipment was on which years, in case you want to upgrade or alter (for
example changing the interior wood). They are readily available from used automobile literature sources.
There are many more for the E32, which can be useful too.
E34 Einbauanleitungen
Ski carrier 410 725
air filter ....................................................... 33, 66 fire extinguisher ....... 9, 11, 11720, 133, 155, 315
airbags3, 18, 77, 936, 1057, 139, 269, 289, 317 firewall.........................................................3940
a-pillar .............................................................. 70 first-aid kit................................ 1178, 1212, 298
armrests ...............7, 11, 13, 128, 133, 2016, 315 universal..............................................283, 298
ashtray.................................................... 191, 288 fog light covers.................................................283
battery 8, 12, 19, 45, 59, 63, 70, 107, 125, 1357, fog light nozzles........................................17, 237
140, 155, 159, 1824, 219, 2234, 235, 240, fog lights ....2, 4, 8, 112, 1727, 31, 445, 2656,
250, 25670, 274 271, 275, 280, 283, 315
Bentley Publishers service manual................... 310 footwells ..... 6, 7, 13, 3940, 45, 70, 73, 102, 136,
Bowden cable ......................................... 160, 192 1445, 1557, 1645, 169, 1812, 185, 2235,
b-pillars....................................................... 5, 223 270, 291
bulb kit.................................................... 283, 299 rear ...............................19, 144, 159, 182, 224
bumper side strips ................................. 19, 2834 friction tape .....................................................303
bumpers...............................2, 1931, 60, 64, 284 front passenger storage net ......................283, 291
cassette holder fuse boxes
console ............................................... 283, 294 front ................ 31, 3645, 6364, 76, 185, 286
door ................................................... 283, 294 rear ................. 221, 231, 239, 249, 271, 2745
cassette tape cleaner ............................... 283, 289 fuses ..................................................36, 286, 299
CD player ....................................................... 257 F16 .............................................................141
cover .......................................................... 259 F18 .............................................................141
cell phone ....................................................... 219 F24 .........................................................37, 39
Check Control system ..................34, 13, 64, 139 gear knobs...............................................283, 293
circular saw ............................................. 189, 196 General Module.....................................71, 7475
coin tray.................................................. 283, 293 glove box............... 1, 39, 70, 937, 1001, 2879
connectors glove box damper....................................283, 289
butt............................................................... 65 glove box flashlight ..................................283, 287
X13 ........................................................ 3943 glove box power adapter .........................283, 288
X14 .................................................. 74, 1857 glycerine ......................................................28, 31
X15 .............................................53, 54, 1867 gong ................................................73, 98, 1001
X255 ............................................................ 74 ground strap, hood ......................................63, 65
X269 .......................................................... 239 grounds 65, 71, 73, 74, 89, 140, 149, 151, 1592,
X295 ...............................................445, 767 1814, 225, 234, 240, 249, 256, 266, 2745,
X332 ............................................................ 71 280
X333 ............................................................ 76 handbrake handle, wood .........................283, 295
X337 .......................................................... 221 headlight beam adjusters ...................................47
console, center ..5, 7, 937, 1001, 123, 133, 182, headlight nozzles..............................17, 25, 26, 46
223, 226, 23940, 2912, 2956, 316 headliner .................................3, 6, 701, 90, 179
control modules ...... 178, 31, 45, 6979, 13940, headrest motors ........... 140, 1524, 171, 174, 233
144, 170, 2215, 2314, 240, 247 headrests 5, 11, 13, 128, 133, 1367, 140, 1524,
c-pillars ........................................193, 2373, 250 171, 174, 204, 207, 2159, 233, 235, 239,
cruise control .............................................. 80, 84 275, 316
cupholder ............................................... 283, 292 rear .....123, 135, 159, 215, 221, 239, 240, 249
deadpedal..................................... 70, 79, 98, 185 heat shrink tubing ..............................................65
door panels 6, 13, 145, 155, 160, 1658, 189201 hole saw ......................................................24, 25
E32 model ..5, 17, 37, 42, 46, 59, 87, 89, 13940, hood.................... 2, 323, 36, 43, 5968, 98, 145
143, 1445, 149, 152, 1589, 162, 181, 183, independent heating system.................................2
2017, 215, 2213, 230, 232, 237, 289, 292, independent ventilation system ......................2, 12
307, 311, 315, 317 installation instructions (EBA)17, 18, 212, 25, 26,
Electronic Parts Catalog (ETK) ........................ 307 28, 31, 467, 59, 70, 79, 87, 90, 93, 1056,
Electronic Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) . 37, 42, 1189, 123, 125, 130, 139, 173, 175, 177,
187, 307, 309 181, 189, 1945, 201, 2079, 212, 215, 221,
engine bay ...... 18, 29, 348, 59, 64, 68, 756, 82, 23740, 245, 2489, 250, 257, 261, 265, 291,
286, 303 301, 312, 315
factory service manual .................................... 309 insulation............. 602, 67, 2078, 2168, 2756
Also included are descriptions of many fun or useful accessories requiring minimal installation that are available for
these vehicles.
The introduction to the book provides a comprehensive description of the special features optional or not that made
these cars such outstanding luxury vehicles, on top of their reliability, solidity, performance, and beauty.
The guide is authored by hobbyist Marcus Corbin, who peformed the retrofits on his Lazur Blue 1992 535i.