Fashion and Accessories of the 1960's

Cultural Changes in Society and Their Effect on Fashion

During the sixties, the economic boom that began during the previous decade continued for the most part. With
more people benefiting from prosperity and the culture moving further away from the idea of post-war
rationing, the way a lot of people interacted with fashion began to change. Less people needed to, or even
wanted to make their own clothes and the emergence of even more commercial fashion opportunities meant that
using clothing as a status symbol was no longer confined to the wealthiest. Fashion could now be used to
distinguish between levels within the middle class and even within the poorest classes in the United States.

Culture and society also became more casual. Much of the clothing could straddle the line between formal and
casual and clothing could be mixed and matched to make many different outfits for different occasions. Many
more outfits began to feature slimmer and sleeker lines with A-line and shift dresses being amongst the most
popular fashions for women and tapered dress shirts being popular with men. Along with a more modern look,
people took fashion cues from prominent figures in politics (Jackie Kennedy and the pillbox hat) to
entertainment (Cher with long black hair and bell-bottoms). What was acceptable in terms of personal fashion
changed quickly and often. Hemlines of skirts rose higher for women, hair length grew longer on men, and two
piece bikinis became common swimming attire. If fashion of the 1950s first inspired individual identity through
style, the sixties fully embraced and encouraged it.

Fashion and the Influence of Music and Television

Although it was invented much earlier, television ruled the 1960s. As technological advances made
manufacturing easier and cheaper, and as the middle class and disposable income grew, there was a sharp rise in
the number of households that owned a television. This had a major influence on what people were exposed to
(including fashion trends), as they could see what was going on in the fashion world through their favorite
television personalities and by seeing their favorite musicians perform on television. Not only did TV shows
influence the popular fashion trends of the time, but television commercials and an increased effort on
marketing towards youth added to the importance of staying in style and cultivating an individual fashion sense.
Television had helped to create a new fashion-consciousness that could connect viewers to the here and now.
People had always taken style cues from entertainment like films, but television connected people to fashion on
a daily basis and served as a bridge between generations, regions, and classes in a way no other technology had
been able to before.
Music became important to the fashions of the 1960s, too. Many of the most popular genres were associated
with specific fashion trends that emerged at the same time; Mod to British Invasion, Hippies to Psychedelic and
Folk rock, and so on. Music fans took fashion cues from their favorite artists in the same way TV viewers
looked for trends in their most loved programs. Waves of similarly dressed people would show up at concerts
and festivals, bonding in the commonality of their individual fashion sense. Television also helped to spread the
latest style trends through music as there were many programs dedicated to showcasing the most current and
popular performers playing their most recent songs.

Mod and the London Look

Mod fashion came out of the youth subculture popularized in Great Britain during the 1960s. Mods in Britain
were all about fashion and it was on the first modern cultural movements to emphasize special fashions for men
and normalize men's interest in current fashions. Mod fashion was connected to specific designers like Mary
Quant who can be credited with popularizing the mini-skirt (a fashion must-have for any Mod woman). These
fashion trends started in London and were particularly represented on Carnaby Street. The look was not
confined to certain elements but did place emphasis on bright, bold patterns and colors, jackets for men, go-go
boots, and shorter skirts and hairstyles for women. The style strayed from its original lifestyle associations and
took on a more trendy tone as it moved from the UK to the US with the British musical invasion. As a reaction
to the Mod-look there were others who rejected that specific style and embraced the rock 'n' roll opposite to the
mods. "Rockers" in Britain and "Greasers" and "Jocks" in the United States rejected this style and rebelled in
their fashion choices by focusing on leather and jeans or a look rooted in athletics and a clean-cut style. Mod
fashion reached the height of its popularity during the early to mid-sixties and was in decline by 1966 and 1967.
Hippie Fashion and the Counterculture

At the opposite end of the consumer fashion spectrum from the Mods were the Hippies and their unique style.
The hippie counterculture emerged from the West Coast culture of the United States and spread throughout the
country from the mid-sixties onward. The Haight-Ashbury area in San Francisco and Greenwich Village in New
York City were hot spots for Hippie fashions in particular. The style became more represented in mainstream
culture after 1967's "Summer of Love" and the look was popular from that point on until the mid-seventies.
Hippie fashion represented a rebellion against consumerism and the clothes and accessories were often
handmade or purchased from flea markets. The style featured long "maxi" skirts, bell-bottomed jeans, flowing
fabric tops, peasant blouses, paisleys, florals, bright tie-dyes, and Eastern, Indian, Native American, and African
motifs. Sandals were the footwear of choice for men and women and long hair was encouraged. The
conventional rules for presenting oneself were wholly shunned and men sported long, unkempt beards with their
long hair. Hippie women rejected make-up and revolted against the restricting shape-wear garments like girdles,
padded bras, nylons and controllers that had been considered the norm for the previous decades. Overall the the
fashion of the hippie counterculture demonstrated what they considered to be a more natural look that looked to
turn pre-conceived notions around and have the mainstream culture questioning their own fashion rules.

High Fashion: Models and Designers

High fashion in the sixties was nothing without the iconic models that showed off new styles and inspired some
designers and artists as well. In the opinion of some, many of the first models to be considered "supermodels"
came out of this decade and many others still reached levels international acclaim. Some examples of famous
models from the 1960s include Twiggy, Lauren Hutton, Jean Shrimpton, and Naomi Sims. Jean Shrimpton and
Twiggy could be considered two of the world's first supermodels and Naomi Sims is often considered the
world's first African American supermodel, while Lauren Hutton turned her modeling into an acting career. One
of the most important fashion faces to come out of the sixties has to be Twiggy, whose thin and boyish body,
cropped androgynous hair and massive eyelashes made her a fashion icon in London and internationally.
Twiggy's thin body and short hair were perfect for designers to try new androgynous and slimmer styles of
clothing. Unfortunately, many believe this change in fashion and the emphasis on extreme thinness was caused
by extremely thin models that came out of the decade and new style of clothes made to fit a thinner frame and
that it all contributed to an increase of body image issues and eating disorders for youth since then. Some of the
most famous fashion designers that rose to prominence in the sixties were Yves Saint Laurent, Mary Quant,
Oscar de la Renta, and Emilio Pucci.
1960s in fashion

"Swinging London" fashions on Carnaby Street, c. 1966. The National Archives (United Kingdom).

The Beatles exerted a major influence on young men's fashions and hairstyles in the 1960s.

The 1960s featured a number of diverse trends. It was a decade that broke many fashion traditions, mirroring
social movements during the time. In the middle of the decade, culottes, go-go boots, box-shaped PVC dresses
and other PVC clothes were popular... The widely popular bikini came into fashion in 1963 after being featured
in the musical Beach Party.

Mary Quant invented the mini skirt, and Jackie Kennedy introduced the pillbox hat,[1] both becoming extremely
popular. False eyelashes were worn by women throughout the 1960s, and their hairstyles were a variety of
lengths and styles.[2] People were dressing in psychedelic prints, highlighter colors, and mismatched patterns.[3]
The hippie movement late in the decade also exerted a strong influence on ladies' clothing styles, including bell-
bottom jeans, tie-dye, and batik fabrics, as well as paisley prints.

In the early-to-mid-1960s, the London Modernists known as the Mods were shaping and defining popular
fashion for young British men while the trends for both changed more frequently than ever before in the history
of fashion and would continue to do so throughout the decade.[4]

Designers were producing clothing more suitable for young adults, which led to an increase in interest and
sales.[5]

Early 1960s
Until the 1960s, it was high profile designers from Paris and London who dictated styles worn by people.
However, during and after the 1960s it was young, common people who dictated fashion. In the later 60's this
also changed and fashion became more diverse. They would influence style and designers would attempt to
keep up with the trends that they created. One such group of young people were known as mods and rockers.
 The women wore very, very short skirts, tall, brightly colored boots, and
tight fitted, sleeveless tunics. The young men dressed like rock star Pete
Townshend of the rock band the Who.[6]

Fashions in the early years of the

decade reflected the elegance of the
First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy. In
addition to the pillbox hat, which is
discussed in detail below, women wore
suits with short boxy jackets, and over-
sized buttons. Simple, geometric
dresses, known as shifts, were also in
style. For evening wear, full-skirted
evening gowns were worn; these often
had a low dcolletage and had close-
fitting waists. For casual wear, The Mods were a British
capri trousers were the fashion for fashion phenomenon in the
women and girls. mid1960s with their anoraks,
A cocktail dress decorated with tailored Italian suits, and
metal discs. scooters

Stiletto heel shoes were widely popular. As the suits drifted away from pale, toned shades, menswear was now
bright and colorful. It included frills and cravats, wide ties and trouser
straps, leather boots and even collarless jackets. Ties were worn even five
inches wide, with crazy prints, stripes and patterns. Casual dress consisted
of plaid button down shirts with comfortable slacks or skirts.[7]

During the early and mid-1960s, Greasers, also known as Ton-up Boys,
were identifiable by their blue jeans and black Schott Perfecto leather
jackets.

Mid-1960s
After designer Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt in 1964, fashions of the 1960s were changed forever. The
mini skirt was eventually to be worn by nearly every stylish young woman in the western world and pushed out
the longer skirt lengths that were worn before. The mini-skirt and the "little girl" look that accompanied it
reflect a revolutionary shift in the way people dress. Instead of younger generations dressing like adults, they
became inspired by childlike dress.[8]

The 1960s had many different varieties. For example, the mini dress was usually A-line in shape or a sleeveless
shift. In 1964, French designer Andr Courrges introduced the "space look", with trouser suits, white boots,
goggles, and box-shaped dresses whose skirts soared three inches above the knee. These were mainly designed
in fluorescent colours and shiny fabrics such as PVC and sequins.[9]

The leaders of mid-1960s style were the British. The Mods (short for Modernists) were characterized by their
choice of style different from the 1950s and adopted new fads that would be imitated by many young people. As
the Mods strongly influenced the fashion in London, 1960s fashion in general set the mood for the rest of the
century as it became marketed mainly to young people. Mods formed their own way of life creating television
shows and magazines that focused directly on the lifestyles of Mods.[1] British rock bands such as The Who,
The Small Faces, and The Kinks emerged from the Mod subculture. The Mods were known for the Modern Jazz
they listened to as they showed their new styles off at local cafes. They worked at the lower end of the work
force, usually nine to five jobs leaving time for clothes, music, and clubbing.[1] It was not until 1964 when the
Modernists were truly recognized by the public that women really were accepted in the group. Girls had short,
clean haircuts and often dressed in similar styles to the male Mods.[4] The Mods' lifestyle and musical tastes
were the exact opposite of their rival group known as the Rockers. The rockers liked 1950s rock-and roll, wore
black leather jackets, greased, pompadour hairstyles, and rode motorbikes. The look of the Mods was classy;
they mimicked the clothing and hairstyles of high fashion designers in France and Italy; opting for tailored suits,
which were topped by anoraks that became their trademark. They rode on scooters, usually Vespas or
Lambrettas. The Mods dress style was often called the City Gent look. Shirts were slim, with a necessary button
down collar accompanied by slim fitted pants.[4] Levi's were the only type of jeans worn by Modernists. Flared
trousers and bellbottoms led the way to the hippie stage introduced in the 1960s. Variations of polyester were
worn along with acrylics.[4]

Carnaby Street and Chelsea's Kings Road were virtual fashion parades. In 1966, the space age was gradually
replaced by the Edwardian, with the men wearing double-breasted suits of crushed velvet or striped patterns,
brocade waistcoats, shirts with frilled collars, and their hair worn below the collar bone. Rolling Stones guitarist
Brian Jones epitomised this "dandified" look. Women were inspired by the top models of the day which
included Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton, Colleen Corby, Penelope Tree, and Veruschka. Velvet mini dresses with
lace-collars and matching cuffs, wide tent dresses and culottes had pushed aside the geometric shift. False
eyelashes were in vogue, as was pale lipstick. Hemlines kept rising, and by 1968 they had reached well above
mid-thigh. These were known as "micro-minis". This was when the "angel dress" made its appearance on the
fashion scene. A micro-mini dress with a flared skirt and long, wide trumpet sleeves, it was usually worn with
patterned tights, and was often made of crocheted lace, velvet, chiffon or sometimes cotton with a psychedelic
print such as those designed by Emilio Pucci. The cowled-neck "monk dress" was another religion-inspired
alternative; the cowl could be pulled up to be worn over the head. For evening wear, skimpy chiffon baby-doll
dresses with spaghetti-straps were the mode as well as the "cocktail dress", which was a close-fitting sheath,
usually covered in lace with matching long sleeves.[10] Feather boas were occasionally worn.

In 1964, Bell-bottomed trousers were a new alternative to the capris of the early 1960s. They were usually worn
with chiffon blouses, polo-necked ribbed sweaters or tops that bared the midriff. These were made in a variety
of materials including heavy denims, silks, and even elasticated fabrics.[11] A popular look for females was the
suede mini-skirt worn with a French polo-neck top, square-toed boots, and Newsboy cap or beret. This style
came back in the early 2000s.

The look of corsets, seamed tights, and skirts covering the knees had been abolished. The idea of buying
urbanized clothing, which could be worn with separate pieces, was intriguing to women of this era in
comparison to previously only buying specific outfits for certain occasions.[12]

For daytime outerwear, short plastic raincoats, colourful swing coats and dyed fake-furs were popular for young
women. In 1966, the Nehru jacket arrived on the fashion scene, and was worn by both sexes. Suits were very
diverse in color but were for the first time ever fitted and very slimming. Waistlines for women were left
unmarked and hemlines were getting shorter and shorter.

Footwear for women included low-heeled sandals and kitten-heeled pumps, as well as the trendy white go-go
boots. Shoes, boots, and handbags were often made of patent leather or vinyl. The Beatles wore elastic-sided
boots similar to Winkle-pickers with pointed toes and Cuban heels. These were known as "Beatle boots" and
were widely copied by young men in Britain.

Late 1960s
 Bell-bottoms, colourful headbands, and bare feet were part of the unisex hippie look
that was popular in the late 1960s

By 1967 , the androgynous hippie look was in style. Both men and women wore frayed
bell-bottomed jeans, tie-dyed shirts, workshirts, and headbands. Wearing sandals was
also part of the hippie look for both men and women. Women would often go barefoot,
and some went braless. The idea multiculturalism also became very popular; a lot of
style inspiration was drawn from traditional clothing in Nepal, India, Bali, Morocco and
African countries. Because inspiration was being drawn from all over the world, there
was increasing separation of style; though clothing pieces often had similar elements
and created similar silhouettes, there was no real "uniform".[13]

Fringed buck-skin vests, flowing caftans, the "lounging" or "hostess" pajamas. These
consisted of a tunic top over floor-length culottes, and were usually made of polyester
or chiffon.

Long maxi coats, often belted and lined in sheepskin, appeared at the close of the decade. Animal prints were
also popular for women in the autumn and winter of 1969. Women's shirts often had transparent sleeves.
Psychedelic prints, hemp and the look of "Woodstock" came about in this generation.[citation needed]

The rise of trousers for women

The 1960s were an age for fashion innovation for women. With it came the rise of womens trousers.
Traditionally, trousers had been viewed by western society as masculine. However, by the 1960s, it became
acceptable for women to wear trousers as well. Women loved trousers because of their practicality, comfort and
versatility. Women wore trousers with tunics, shawls, and jackets. The womens trousers came in a variety of
styles: narrow, wide, below the knee, above the ankle, and eventually mid thigh. These mid-thigh cut trousers
evolved around 1969, and became the modern shorts. By adapting mens style and wearing trousers, women
voiced their equality to men.[14]

The most important change in hairstyles during this period was that men and women wore styles that resembled
each other. It was the new fashion for women used to cut their hair short and close to their heads.[15] Head
coverings changed dramatically towards the end of the decade as men's hats went out of style, replaced by the
bandanna, if anything at all. As men let their hair grow long, the Afro became the hairstyle of choice for African
Americans. This afro was not just a fashion statement but also an emblem of racial pride. They started to
believe that by allowing their hair to grow in its nature state without chemical treatments, they would be
accepting their racial identities.[16] Mop-top hairstyles were most popular for white and Hispanic men,
beginning as a short version around 1963 through 1964, developing into a longer style worn during 196566,
eventually evolving into an unkempt hippie version worn during the 196769 period which continued in the
early 1970s. Facial hair, evolving in its extremity from simply having longer sideburns, to mustaches and
goatees, to full-grown beards became popular with young men from 1966 onwards. Women's hair styles ranged
from beehive hairdos in the early part of the decade to the very short styles popularized by Twiggy and Mia
Farrow just five years later to a very long straight style as popularized by the hippies in the late 1960s. Between
these extremes, the chin-length contour cut and the pageboy were also popular. The pillbox hat was fashionable,
due almost entirely to the influence of Jacqueline Kennedy, who was a style-setter throughout the decade. Her
bouffant hairstyle, described as a "grown-up exaggeration of little girls' hair", was created by Kenneth.[17][18]
Hair styles were very big and used a large quantity of hair spray (hence HairSpray the musical), somewhat like
ours today.

The Single Girl

 Jean Shrimpton was a model who reflected the ideal of the single girl.

Fashion photography in the 1960s represented a new feminine ideal for

women and young girls: the Single Girl. The Single Girl represented
movement. She was young, single, active, and economically self-
sufficient. Although the Single Girl was economically, socially and
emotionally self-sufficient, the ideal body form; that of the adolescent was
difficult for many to achieve. Therefore, women were constrained by diet
restrictions that seemed to contradict the sense of the empowered 1960s
Single Girl.[19]

Fashion Photography in the 1960s

The 1960s photography was in sharp contrast to the models of the 1920s,
which photographers carefully posed for the camera, and portrayed as
immobile. To represent this new Single Girl feminine ideal, many 1960s photographers shot models outside,
often having them walk or run in fashion shoots. Models in the 1960s now promoted sports wear and working
wear. This sports wear trend exemplified the trends of the 1960s: the modern fascination with speed, and the
quickening pace of the 1960s urban life.

Fashion photographers also photographed the Single Girl wearing working wear, calling her the Working Girl.
The Working Girl motif represented another shift for the modern, fashionable woman. Unlike earlier
fashionable periods, when formal evening gowns and the European look trended, the 1960s Working Girl
popularized daywear and "working clothing". Now, new ready to wear lines replaced individualized formal
couture fashion. The Working Girl created an image of a new, independent woman who has control over her
body.[19]

Additional fads and trends

Pete Townshend of The Who, (1967), lace sewn into his clothing

The 1960s also gave birth to the drainpipe jeans, worn by Audrey Hepburn. Jeans
were only one of several leg wear trends that found traction in the 1960s. Hosiery,
and tights in particular, became very popular. Hosiery manufacturers of the time
like Mary Quant (who founded Pamela Mann Legwear) combined the "Flower
Power" style of dress and the Pop Art school of design to create fashion tights that
would appeal to a wide and emerging audience.[20]

The late 1960s produced a style categorized of people who promoted sexual
liberation and favored a type of politics reflecting "peace, love and freedom".[citation
needed]
Ponchos, moccasins, love beads, peace signs, medallion necklaces, chain belts, polka dot-printed fabrics,
and long, puffed "bubble" sleeves were additional trends in the late 1960s.

New materials other than cloth (such as polyester and PVC) started to become more popular as well.

Starting in 1967, the Mod culture began to change musically and the culture altered to a more laid back hippy
style including psychedelia. the following years became known as the summers of love, with festivals etc.