Ultralight glider aerobatic

Introduction
What does it mean VTPR?
Literally: "Voltige trs prs du relief " or ground level acrobatics. It is a type of flight starting in the early years of the millennium in France,
in which the figures are - in fact - made at very low altitudes.

And Ultrabatics?
Ultrabatics refers to ground level aerobatic models with very low wing loading, born in California a few years ago. Before
that was invented the term was called "California style VTPR." Similar to the original VTPR as spectacular, is com
models very light and in humble conditions.

For those who want to know more (in English):

Thanks
Thank you for purchasing our kit. We hope you enjoy :)

Le Fishray and 'based on The Fish Steve Lange, see http://www.slopeaerobatics.com

In addition to having made available the project's Fish at all, Steve does a great job on his blog to promote and develop
this particular flying style.

The fuselage and 'inspired by the Stingray, design and 'was kindly granted by Beppe Ghisleri. The name is a combination of Fishray The
Fish andStingray.

Note:
The model is the son of a 'new school' very radical, if you are accustomed to the traditional construction of EPP can stay
displaced. One above all: it seems impossible that the bayonets flaps that are able to support a model of this size.

Trust and follow the manual. The secret of these models is to be light. If you are not serving a light structure deadly, if you
begins to strengthen here and there is a risk of breaking alchemy, and end up with a very effective model in light conditions and
less resistant in the event of a fall.

The Fishray - 2
 Kit Contents:

Central core - muzzle Soul Central - tail

20mm thick 20mm thick

Cheeks side - tail

10mm (x2)
Cheeks side - nose
10mm (x2)

Wings (x2)

The Fishray - 3
 To complete the model are required:

Electronics: Equipment:
4 servos micro class, at least 2kg of torque, for example: - + Hobby knife replacement blades
- Hitec HS65HB - Cutter + spare blades
- Corona 929MG - Scissors
- Crown 929HV (2 cell lipo Live) - Thin-nosed pliers
NOTE: for the control of the elevator is strongly recommended - Permanent marker
a servant of quality and without games. To obtain the excursions - spray to wet the PU
requests is even better if programmable (Hitec - coarse abrasive pad, 80 or 120
HS5065MG). - ruler (preferably metal)
- spatula to pull the glue
- paper tape for masking
Receiving small-format, at least 4 channels, which supports - plastic wrap or waxed paper
following functions: - iron model
- DR and exponential programmable switch
optionally:
- Command ailerons on 2 separate channels
- Ele -> Camber mix
- Camber mix of stick for driving 4-axis, in this case
have the springs on both the stick helps

Battery:
1450mAh lipo or life Coating
800mAh nimh, 4 or 5 AAA cells
For the coating of the model suggest the use of Mylar 42
microns with the hot glue already applied. It is a film that is
BEC depending on the chosen configuration (lipo and serve no HV) used for hot rolling of transparencies and billboards.

Glue:
- Foam-safe Cyanoacrylate
- Hot glue at low temperature (the stick '6mm
instead '9)
- Polyurethane Adhesive type Saratoga WD4 or Pattex PU Universal

The Fishray - 4
 Union of the central parts:
Juxtaposed parts, if necessary cut where indicated at point (1).
Sanded surfaces that may come in touch and unite them with glue
PU. Use the pins to keep everything aligned.

(1)

Union of sides:
Place the side parts on the central part of the film using
kitchen to isolate it from the glue. This means that the recess for the
profile is in the right position. Repeat the procedure as
above.

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 Marking of break-ins:
Add the pages that make up the paper template, cut the edges
and burglary of lightening. Sand the sides of the fuselage,
will make it easier cutting and allow the glue to penetrate
in successive phases in the EPP.

Burglary sull'EPP marked with a marker.

Cutting the burglary:

Cut the notches relief, paying attention to:

(2) the rear part of the battery compartment and 'cut at an angle

(3) the cut-out for the tail servo and 'the small one in the template, the
goes wider on the side.

(3)

(2)

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Housings servants
Marked in felt pen on the height of the servant of the hobby knife blade

Housings servants
Draw the outline of the seat with the marker, then cut along the
board using the mark on the blade as a guide to the depth 'of
cutting. Then cut the part to be removed in strips about 3 mm,
in both directions.

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Housings servants
Tear strips EPP using a pair of tweezers and starting from
center. Place the servo and check that it is too high to
somewhere. Make sure there is space for the movement of
bracket.

Housings servants
Spray water into the headquarters of the servant and the glue spalmateci
PU with a spatula, it takes very little. Be sure to
well cover the sides but not the part where the bracket will go. Thread
the slave wrapped in plastic wrap and keep in a pressure
weight until 'the glue stops swell.
In this way remains a 'shell' drive sull'EPP in form of a servant,
to secure it just a drop of hot glue.

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 Cutouts for the electrical system:
Fate of indentations so that extension cords are flush with the EPP. The
template includes the tracks, you may need to adapt them to
Depending on what used.

If you use the toroid for the ailerons (you only need one for both) and
for the servant in the queue - having long strands may be subject to
interference - can house them in the cuts of lightening or
create ad hoc.

(4)

Installation of reinforcements in the

queue:
Phorate the jig at the beginning and at the end of the strip, and reported the 2
points
sull'EPP.
(5) Draw a line with a marker, then with the hobby knife make a
V-cut so that the strip lunges completely. For
paste and 'sufficient' point it 'with the CA, will be' fixed
permanently from the PU when you paste the side.

(6) Glue the plywood support for fixing the servant of

(5)
tail.

(6)

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 Channel to connect the tail servo:
(7) cut as shown to thread the wire of the servo. The
cutouts must be large enough in order to be able to make us
Pass the connector. This will remove the servo if
needed without having to intervene 'surgery' on the model.

(7)

(11)
Wells of access:
(10) (8) mark the location of the break-ins with a marker.

(9) The cut-out for the servant to be cut straight and should enable
(10)
fins to enter, so they do not have the servant that protrudes
completely.

(10) wells for access should be cut at an angle, the tracks are
relating to the inner part.

(11) supported parts of the fuselage and create a home in side

left around the burglary of a servant so that does not bend in
at the plywood support.
(9)

(8)

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 Bowden directional marking:
(12) mark the point where the bowden do exit so that it is
2mm above the bracket.

(12)

Bowden directional installation:

(13) drawn with a ruler and marker to the location of the bowden
it does not interfere with the burglary of the wing and the curves are beautiful
large and round. Take a cutting V.
Recessed flush with the tube in the EPP using a drop of AC every 5/6cm.
The Bowden will 'then held in place when you paste the fuselage.

(13)

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 Installation of reinforcing strips:
Cut two strips using the templates provided in plywood
birch 1mm (maybe the material of badge or card
credit). Let burglary for the tube a bit 'tight, they go
to trim later so that the guide for the tail plane is
joints accurately.

(14) Cut off a veil of EPP so that the grip goes to

wire.

(14)

Installation of reinforcing strips:

Glue the grips on the sides of the fuselage with PU glue. If the
you do plastic is better to scratch with sandpaper grain
large in order to improve the adhesion of the glue.

(15)

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 Gluing the right side:
(16) Place the servo in place and protect the cable with tape
paper on the other side of your figure before you attach the
right side of the fuselage.

Alternatively, you can pass a piece of string to pull the cable

servo later.

The bonding can be done using PU (recommended), or Por glue

spray.

(16)

Installation of the electrical system:

(17) does not set the rudder servo, will be 'glued to the fuselage
closed.

(18) installed in the connecting plate (or males of

extensions) so that it is flush with the profile.

(19) predispose the extension of the tail servo so that there is

a minimum of wealth to pull off the connectors for attaching /
disconnect the servo.

(19)

(18)

(17)

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Gluing the left side:
Glue the left side of the fuselage.

Closure of pozetti:
Put in position the wells of access and secure them in position
with pins, so as to sagomarli together with the fuselage in the stages
later.

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 Tapering tail
Tapering the rear part of the fuselage by reference
the size in the picture.

Part to be removed
Fuselage shape:
The fuselage is rounded making precise cuts at an angle
1 cut 2 cut
and then using an abrasive pad. This procedure requires
less time, less dust and less effort compared to the sanding
'-Thumb', and gives more accurate results.

Maximum height of the holes

lightening

Bonding sides

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 Marking of guiding points:
Using a line drawing marked a point at a distance of 25mm
from the edge every 5 or 6 cm.

(20) verified that the top of the ruler is aligned with the
fuselage so as to be at right angles with the edge at that given point.

(20)

Tracing guidelines:
Connect the dots, you should get a result as shown, repeat
Also on the other side.

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 Cutting the excess:
Cut with the cutter as shown in the figure, from the line guide (21) until
point where the layers of the fuselage are joined (22).

(21)

(22)

Cutting the excess:

Cut a first element to 5 or 6 cm away from the 'step' in
tail and go forward all the way around the fuselage. Since the tail '
tapered, and 'best to make it last and go a little' eye.

NOTE: Do not try to do everything in a single piece! cut

vertical as shown above every 5cm and proceed in small
steps.

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 Finishing the tail
Machined by cutting a little at a time, until obtaining a result
as shown.

(24) Second cut:

Repeat the above procedure, taking into account that:
The distances are of 5mm in point (23) and 7mm in point (24).
(25) The fixed part of management and 'long 110mm wide and 10mm;
be sure to leave a flat space for bonding.
(23)

Once finished, rounded fuselage with abrasive pad.

(25)

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 Installation guide for the tailplane:
(26) Paste the tube 6x32mm as in Fig. Let 2 or
3mm on each side so you have freedom of movement.

(27) Glue EPP in a buffer so as to complete the

fuselage.

(26)
(27)

Installing the locking block queue:

(28) shaped pad made of EPP so that it is flush with the
fuselage, and make sure to leave the flat top where
will be pasted on the fixed part of the executive.

(28)

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 Installation dell'impennaggio tail:
(29) bonded with the PU the fixed part of the directional. Pay
attention that is aligned with the fuselage, in the case retouched with the
buffer. Make sure that the thickness is constant at 10mm.
(29)

Now you can 'proceed to the lining of the fuselage. To give more
robustness to drift is advisable to cover it with a first end
about 7cm wide, which also covers the underside of the fuselage,
then coat the whole so that on the drift there are 2 layers.

Preparation of directional
(30) Cut to 90 where the leading edge will be installed
(30) hinges.

(31) Install the bracket of the command. Refer

the height of the Bowden cable out of the fuselage!

(31)

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Installation of directional
Mounted on the fuselage using the rudder hinges
read or strips of floppy disks.

Preparation of shelves:
Use the guides provided for drawing the lines will be installed where
the bayonet. Practice burglary using a bayonet wrapped
sandpaper.

Put the planets on a table and make sure that the recess is deep
enough to allow the bayonet of descent to the center
the shelves themselves.

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 Preparing the tail command:
Take 2 to square and cut off all the unused servo arms.
(32) Will be used as bushings to lock the bayonet tail.
Spread the central hole with the drill so that the bayonet comes to
wire.

(32) glued to a bushing on the bayonet ring at a distance such that the
bayonet itself is centered.

(33) inserted the bracket on the bayonet without glue.

(33)

Installing uniball:
(34)
(34) The uniball in the queue must be mounted on the inner side, toward the
fuselage.

(35) IMPORTANT: When the axis of the hole is vertical control, the
'Scoop' that you paste on the shelf MUST point upwards (to
pull up)!

The center distance between the holes is

approximately 30mm.

(35)

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 Installing uniball:
Since the distance between the side servo uniball is approximately 30mm (holes
more
external angle of the servants Hitec series 65)
Using the distances indicated in the bracket and tail inclined
the extension of the endpoint on the radio it should be possible
obtain about 90 run to try to climb and 45 to beat.

If you do not care so much excursion you can use a pair

holes of the inner side of the servo.
(39)

Implementation of rods:
(36) and (37) make sure both brackets are vertical.

(38) sandpaper to the tubular 2mm so that it enters in force in

plastic dell'uniball. Then pull it out, glue it with cyan,
(37)
(36) put one more drop of cyano from outside and coated with a
piece of tubing.

(39) cut the rod so that it is shorter than necessary, by

have 10 / 12mm of slack. Screw the threaded rod on the uniball
then add the threaded rod to the rod using the cyan and
tubing.

Experiment to assure you that there is no interference and

(38) see if the combination radio / servo / control can produce
(39) the trips you want, and then paste the bush on the other side and
bracket on the bayonet.

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Installing the shelf left:
Make an indentation left on the shelf so that you can enter the
bracket. Present the shelf on the fuselage so
insure that there is no interference in the movement of the tail.

Gluing on the shelves:

Disassemble the uniball so as to have the tail group free.
Use two boxes in the same way you can put the model
as in the figure.

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 Marking the passage hole bayonet
(40) Bring a wing to the fuselage and mark the point where pass
the bayonet
(40)

Through hole bayonet

(41) (41) Phorate the fuselage from side to side. It is not necessary that the
hole to be precise, when in doubt better to do a little 'smaller in
so that the bayonet come a little 'in power.

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 Cutting of bayonets wing:
(42)
Cut the bayonets wing the size indicated.

(42) Take a tour with the band leaving 'naked' carbon to the extent
indicated. Sand lightly with the bayonet of the paper
coarse-grained to improve the adhesion of the glue, only on the side
(43) long! The short piece will go 'to fit into the bayonet joint and
not needed.

(43) Smooth the bayonet so that it slightly pointed and

help alignment when mounting the wings.

Marking the reference point:

(44) Put in place the bayonet with the blunt side at its root,
wire.

Marked with a marker the end of the bayonet on the wing. There are
40mm wing naked, to avoid being in the middle of the bayonet
to cut off the end 'wing.

(44)

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 General application of the
(45)
sheath:
Wrap the bayonet joint 8mm in a sheet of paper
according to the dimensions shown in the figure. E 'enough to make two or three
rpm.

(45) the tape has the sticky side toward the paper, not the carbon.

Alignment of the sheath:

Insert the bayonet bayonet joint on the wing, and the tape
previously made fara 'by reference. Slide the sleeve
paper to go beyond the step for 5/10 mm, rolled up the
sheath and secure it with a bit of tape.

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 Bonding of the bayonet:
(46) supported the bayonet on the wing with reference to paragraph
marked in step (44). Mark where he began his bayonet joint.
Remove the bayonet from the scabbard, wrap the sandpaper and
extended the recess in the wing for the required length.
(46)
Glue the wing bayonet using PU glue. Wet burglary
in the EPP before applying the glue. The bayonet joint must
be inserted so as to keep taut the sheath during the gluing.
Hold the bayonet in place using weights and spacers,
taking care not to deform the wing.

Finishing:
Remove the bayonet joint and cut the sleeve in excess
so that it is flush with the wing root. Smooth the ends'
of the bayonet joint in such a way as to simplify the insertion.

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 Wing Tip 1: Fill the groove
Cut a piece of EPP to measure so as to close the part of
burglary where comes the bayonet.

Wing tips 2: tracking the guide for the first cut

Using the template provided (cut on the sign outside) marked the
shape of the wing sul'EPP.

(48) (47) the template and 'straight for the first 10cm and is aligned to the edge
clung.

(48) line up at the wing. If the sheet and 'not short

worry, the spanwise alignment is done on the
edge.

(47)

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 Cut off the end:
Cut along the line previously marked, making sure
that the blade is straight.

Tracker signs for the end round:

(49) cut the paper template on the internal sign and tracciatelo sull'EPP,
that is extrados intrados.
(49)
(50) helping with the ribbon of paper and draw a line from
goal 'of the groove wing to BE where cutting starts

(51) draw two parallel lines, 2 or 3mm away, so

that terminate at the break-wing.

(50) (51)

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Rounding the ends:
Cut along the signs and you will get a result similar to that in
figure. Repeat on the other side and rounded with buffer
abrasive.

NOTE: The rounded tip and 'sharp' are used to reduce the vortices
ends and improve the penetration of the model. If you made
haste are likely to degrade performance compared to
squared ends. Try to get the soft and
maintain symmetry.

Cut the excess portion of the ailerons:

Cut 15mm dall'alettone so that it does not interfere with the
fuselage when you mount the wings.

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 Aileron hinge:
Coated the extrados of the wing, turning the film so as to
arrive at the point (52).

Swing the wing as shown and sanded the EPP to

soften the hinge point.

(52) Coated the extrados coming up to the point (53). Make sure that
the film overlaps the leading edge so as to
gain strength.

(53)

Installation servants
The servos are mounted in front of the bayonet so as not to
adversely affect the CG. The distance from the root depends
the length of the servo lead used (typically 20cm
scarce). Make sure that it remains a minimum of slack in the cable to
make the connections.

The servo is mounted slightly inclined, so as to be

aligned with the hinge line dell'aletone.

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 Installing the brackets:
Glue the squares so that they are aligned with the bracket
the servant, remaining perpendicular to the hinge.

Implementation of controls aileron:

Take a 'Z' in harmonic steel from 0.6 or 1 mm, make sure that
the diameter is adjusted so as to have no game and enter them
(54) in brackets.

(54) for the control rod you can use a bamboo skewer or
a 2mm carbon rod.

(55) Use the template provided to ensure that the wing is to

right corner, then add the control rod to Z using cyan and
tubing.
(55)

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 Assembly of the model:
Install battery and receiver mounted in the compartment and the
wings on the model. Check the operation of the radio,
reverse of the servants and so on.

Corse, balance and so on:

The center of gravity is 75mm from the leading edge. You should not use your finger to check they are centered, there is too much tolerance.
Better to use two pins thinner giving a more precise reference.

Lift: race to 90 tailplane serves ONLY to the Flip. It is not necessary in normal flight - even acrobatic - and makes the
model sensitive to limit dell'inutilizzabile. It is absolutely recommended to use the dual rate reduced for normal flight (especially
testing). Even with + /-20mm of travel measured at the leading edge of the shelf you can not do anything. To get a reference to
zero of the shelf just place it parallel to the point where the drift is joined to the fuselage

Directional: more is better. To fly the model as it is used almost only in the stalls, at that moment the model is
very slow and it takes a while 'to hear the command. Everything you can get without interfering with the tail plane is fine.
Exponential at will.

Ailerons: ditto. Authorities need at low speed, then hiking in the order of + /-30mm measured at the root we want.

Exponential: using the races so generous of control surfaces so large a 25% of the exponential of all the commands is
advisable.

Variable profile: the model is very efficient, so use the ailerons as flaperons is not essential. It is however
advisable to have the mix set to the radio, so you can lift the flaps in the more generous to land.

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Printing the manual: Union of templates:

The manual 'supplied in letter size for compatibility'

On the pages of the signs are given a target to be used as
international, however, and 'been paginated so references:
1:1 also allow printing in A4 format.
To ensure print this page with the settings
shown in the figure and measured the size of the box
reference.

To merge pages just cut them flush cutter and using line and then
combine them so that the targets are aligned. Alternatively and 'can
attack the leaves of a window and working against the true
signs in transparency.

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 Chamfer up to lead to wire

Support servant
3mm plywood
Stop cutting here

Cockpit access
Mark the inside line!
The outside of an idea
for cutting angle

Burglary battery
 Registered servo directional
Cockpit access
varies depending on the servant
Miter tail servo connection
used
to enter the
battery

Passage
Bowden
directional

Scassi of passage extensions servants

 Scassi servo cable passage
ON THE RIGHT SIDE
Burglary servant in the central part

Burglary servo on the side

Burglary Bowden directional

Airfoil shape
need to understand where to go with glue
Burglary to strip carbon 3x1
 Template for cutting ends' wing

Home support
tail
 Cut 'vertical'

Rounding
Before cutting the template
Remember to mark
both wings for
the vertical cut