RETRO

Issue Five

Classic Influence. Contemporary Style.

Modern English
Contemporary fashion statements

Martyn ware
Heaven 17’s electric icon

Visual Acoustics
The sculptured photography
of Julius Shulman

Uma Turan
Hats off to the UK’s leading theatrical milliner
 Hello Retroites,
We’ve just returned from Vintage at
Goodwood - a theatrical manifestation of
an abundance of subcultures, genres,
fashions, quirky nuances and although Inspired
we left with one hell of a hangover we
welcome an elegant festival with
4 top five
sartorial élan to the social calendar. 12 gadgets
But aside from frolicking with polka 16 lifestyle
dot-clad women in fields, Retro has 20 fashion
been busy producing yet another
jam-packed issue for you to feast your 26 motoring
gluttonous eyes on. Here in these pages
EDITOR’S LETTER

we unveil the magnificent, sculpted

photography of the late, great Julius
Shulman from the critically acclaimed
film Visual Acoustics. We delve under
the bonnet of the uber-talented Uma Features
Turan, the UK’s leading theatrical 32 julius shulman
milliner. Rev up your Vespas and rejoice
38 art deco bride
in our take of the very ‘modern’ man as
we shoot some pool, dressed in high 44 contemporary mod
fashion. We also chat to one of 54 uma turan
Goodwood’s curators and Heaven 17’s 58 party tarts
Martyn Ware about his love of all things
Italian and why he did a runner from a 64 weekend breaks
flat in his youth and if that wasn’t 74 my cool caravan
enough, we tip you the wink about 78 martyn ware
James Bond’s Aston Martin DB5, driven
by Sean Connery in Goldfinger and
Thunderball, being up for sale at
auction.
All from Retro with love. publisher and& men’’s editor:
Bruce Hudson

julia Brandon &

women’’s editor:
Julia Brandon
art director:
bruce hudson Graeme Coop
chief sub-editor:
Co-editors Danielle Colyer
advertising director:
Retro Magazine Jerry Halls
editor@theretrocollective.com +44 (0)7970 422 437
 CONTENTS
Cover Photo: Merry Phillips

64 58

38 32

44
five
the top
1
Wheels & Dollbaby
Dita Embroidered Cardi
$198 (AUS)

The stylish collaboration between Dita

Von Teese and Wheels & Dollbaby
occurred a few seasons ago, it sold
out immediately and finally Wheels
& Dollbaby are able to bring back a
special Limited Edition run of the
cardi’s in Peach, Black and Red.
www.wheelsanddollbaby.com
five
the top
2
Pinel & Pinel Game Trunk
€39,500

Pinel and Pinel’s designs are made for today’s lifestyle and
alternative travel trends. The range features an i-Trunk, which
includes a fully-equipped office; the Krug Trunk, the ultimate in
luxury for eccentric picnickers; and this rather fantastic Game
Trunk which is described as being ‘the celebration of parlour
games: some privileged moments of sharing that remain
engraved on our childhood memories’. There are around forty
games including the 1935 1st edition Monopoly set, the 1970
1st edition Clue and for the younger folk there’s a Nintendo DS
and even a bit of Triv for the whole family!
www.pineletpinel.com
 five
the top

3
Andy Warhol: The Last Decade
Exhibition at Brooklyn Museum

Left: Oxidation Painting (in 12 parts)

1978. Acrylic & urine on linen.
www.brooklynmuseum.org
five
the top

4
Space Invaders Couch
£POA

Russian-born designer Igor Chak would like to

introduce you to “an old friend that kept trying to take
over Earth but retired and became a couch.”
The couch is leather, with two glass surfaces, lined
with memory foam for extra comfort. He is currently
taking custom orders through a local manufacturer
in Los Angeles.
www.igorchak.com
5
‘Etruria and Florence’ by Mikael Alacoque
£POA

Mikael Alacoque was initially trained as a traditional figurative

sculptor and mould maker but is now looking for new meaning
and relevance in old, outmoded techniques. Recent works
'Gnome Kone' and 'Bad Babysitter' are part of a series of
sculptures concerned with the playfully sinister bastardisation
of familiar objects. The pieces have an initial feeling of
innocence but on closer inspection seem more bizarre and
unsettling and be warned, whatever you do, don’t show these
to your family pets.
www.gggallery.co.uk
Inspired
New products Classic influence

Handpresso Wild Domepod

$145 (CAN)
Following on from the success of the Wild, which made espressos with Easy Serving Espresso
pods in 2007, the Domepod has been released to make real ground coffee espressos. Fantastic
for a pick-me-up on the go, the portable machine comes with a 50ml water reservoir and because
of the hand pump which releases pressure upon the coffee, you get a work-out to boot.
Perk-tastic.
www.handpresso.ca
 gadgets

Sony CDF-A110
TBC
The CFD-A110 has just been released in Japan and comes with an
integrated CD player, a cassette tape player and an AM/FM radio tuner.
If you fancy a warble there’s a built-in microphone for recording and you
can switch between your favourite stations with the two-way buttons.
But being honest if you buy this baby your dial is going to be locked to
only one station and that’s Retro Radio!
www.sony.jp
gadgets

SB2 Sportsband
£TBC
Forget hi-energy sports drinks these headbands will definitely heighten your
performance. The SB2 Sportsband introduces the option of CD-quality music
performance and comes with apt-X on board, which cleans up and adds depth,
bass and treble over Bluetooth. The design takes cues from the 80s so if you feel
like ‘getting strong now’ then whack on a pair and head off to the gym.
www.jaybirdgear.com
 Inspired
New products Classic influence

Two Timer Clock

£246.98
The Two Timer clock illustrates
that even with different time
zones we are of one-world and
according to its designer Sam
Hecht: “It’s as if everyone these
days has come from, or is going
to, somewhere else. Two Timer
is a useful expression of this
modern condition, merging two
different time zones into one
clock.” I guess this isn’t the time,
or the place, to make a gag
about two-timing.
www.scp.co.uk

Pure Evoke-1S Marshall

£119.99
Pure have remodeled the
original radio produced in
collaboration with Marshall and
released the DAB Evoke-1S.
Nicely finished with textured
black vinyl covering, rubber
handle, plastic corner
protectors, white Marshall logo
all set off against a rather lush
gold control panel. As a tie-in
with the radio station Planet
Rock, the default is set to that
station when you turn the radio
on. Does it go up to 11? Do you
really need to ask?
www.hmv.com
lifestyle
Michelle Thompson Artwork Prints
£150
These fine prints by British artist
Michelle Thompson include a unique
combination of mark making, collage
and photography combined with digital
processes. Pictured is “Everything”
which can be found among many others
for sale on her website.
www.michelle-thompson.com

Flow sideboard by Kay + Stemmer

£1995
Inspired by 1950’s design, this
walnut and oak sideboard
combines luxury and function
with the highest standards of
craftsmanship. This perfect
addition to any living room may
set you back a fair bit, but is
worth every penny.
www.heals.co.uk
Chesterfield by Squint Ltd
Inspired
New products Classic influence
from £4800
Want the fine luxury and comfort of a classic
Chesterfield sofa, but also want to add a splash of
colour? Look no further than the brighter-than-life
designs by Squint, with a range of furnishings all
with patchwork style finishes, guaranteed to be an
eye catching addition to any home.
www.squintlimited.com

Newgate Cube Clock

£35
This simplistic Cube Clock with sharp
lines and 60’s feel is available in black
or red. It may be square but you’ll be
hip with this beauty in your home.
www.utilitydesign.co.uk
Inspired
New products Classic influence

Reconditioned Transparent
746 Telephone
£POA
Originally used in telephone exchanges,
there are less than 100 of these
telephones in existence. If these were
a bit before your time, or you just fancy
a trip down memory lane then check
this out: http://bit.ly/9aSCdl
Yes, siree, that familiar chirp was
indeed the 746 in action.
www.pedlars.co.uk

Where to Darlin'?
£95
Dan Innes’ work is inspired by the
everyday events he encounters
along with a more subversive look at
depicting the current world climate
we live in. This work reflects a softer
side with a 30" x 23" Silkscreen
signed limited edition of 50, on white
textured 100% cotton paper, signed
and numbered by the artist.
www.artrepublic.com
 lifestyle
Tall Lamp on Wheel
£350
There is something very
English about this. It’s a
slightly wonky lamp...due
mainly to its height and the
fact that the main pole
slots into the wheel
assembly. As these lamps
have been assembled from
various different bits and
bobs, some reclaimed,
some which are brand
new, no two are precisely
the same. So this image is
only a representation of
what you will receive and
at Retro we like the idea of
ordering this and waiting
for the day when a
random, rather lanky,
wonky lamp turns up at
our home.
www.pedlars.co.uk

Kartell Masters Chair

Pack of two from £216
The Masters Chair, designed by Phillippe Starck
for Kartell, is a tribute to three classic chair
designs, and their designers, of the twentieth
century. With his own interpretation he’s paid
homage to the Series 7 Chair by Arne Jacobsen,
the Tulip Chair by Eero Saarinen and the DSR
or Eiffel Chair by Charles Eames.
www.utilitydesign.co.uk
fashion

Pin Up Lip Balms

$4
Made with all natural ingredients, and available in over 40 fabulous
flavours — including The Boys Love Coconut, Voluptuous Vanilla,
Gimme Grape, and Peppermint Twist — these super stylish lip balms
are a treat for the eyes as well as the lips. And each balm contains a
conditioning formula made up of avocado oil, beeswax, apricot kernel
oil and vitamin E to keep lips nourished, moisturised, and of
course, sexy.
www.pinupbalm.com

Buttoned lace apron

£22
Fancy yourself as the queen of nouvelle cuisine,
but hate to look dowdy in the kitchen? Well fret no
more, ‘cos this retro-style buttoned lace and
cotton pinny is the answer to all your Betty
Crocker woes. Available in fuchsia pink or steely
green, it will add flare to any flambé, and have
you looking the very picture of cutesy kitsch.
www.anthropologie.eu
Inspired
New products Classic influence

Men’s Retro One Stripe shades

£10.99
A treat for all you geek chic lovers out
there, these chunky framed, black tinted
shades are the perfect summer
accessory to fight off those style-melting
sun rays. And at a pinch for just £10.99,
they’re not going to burn a hole in your
pocket either. Genius.
www.phixclothing.com
Inspired
New products Classic influence

iPhone/iPod jewellery by Bless

£204
Imagine if you could take your plain old,
generic, white headphones, and dip them
into a pool of rhinestones instantly
transforming them into a functional piece
of jewellery. Wouldn’t that be cool? Well,
that’s exactly what the clever people at
Bless have done, so take out all that cash
you’ve stuck in a back drawer for a rainy
day, and blow it on some bling!
www.farfetch.com
 fashion

Vivienne Westwood quilted

notebook with pencil
£115
She’s trend-setting fashion royalty
admired and respected the world
over, so what better place to make
all your detailed annotations on the
latest A/W fashion collections (or just
doodle) than this fabulous Vivienne
Westwood quilted gold-pattern fabric
notebook. Along with branded pencil
and paper, and adorned with a
Westwood orb, you can project both
brains and beauty. Fabulous!
www.farfetch.com

Men’s Babette Wasserman cufflinks

£45 Neptune, £49 Fibonacci
Treat yourself to a pair or two of Babette Wasserman retro-inspired cufflinks. Classically
trained in jewellery design at London’s Central St Martins College of Art, Wasserman
has been creating collections of exquisite jewels and cufflinks under her own label for
12 years. We think the Neptune design with its mother of pearl ‘scales’ and the
Fibonacci links said to be inspired by the famous Fibonacci curve linking nature and
maths are just fab.
www.little15jewellery.co.uk
fashion
Friday On My Mind clothing
Prices vary from £25 to £90
While expanding geographically,
Eucalyptus clothing has also celebrated
the successful launch of its sister label,
Friday On My Mind this year.
Spring/Summer ‘10 has seen the 50s
pin-ups and rockabilly fashion range
quickly take its own identity within
Eucalyptus branding. The collection has
plenty of frilly dresses, shorts, playsuits
and tops in denim, checks, ginghams
and polka dots with details such as
heart shaped pockets and buttons.
The idea is to keep you going during
the week with that fun expectation of a
wicked Friday, dressed in sweet
naughtiness. There’s no need to get
the Monday blues anymore: now that
there’s Friday On My Mind.
www.eucalyptusclothing.co.uk
 Inspired
New products Classic influence

Simon Harrison jewellery

Brooch £275, Earrings £75
This matching pair of Frog Prince jewellery forms
part of an exciting collection from renowned costume
jewellery designer Simon Harrison. The hand carved
24 carat gold Frog Prince brooch combines coloured
enamels with tiny cabochon stones and Swarovski
crystal. Close attention has been paid to even the
finest detail, where the frog has handmade glass
eyes, and on the underside the frog wears a tiny
waistcoat with a shirt and bow tie. The gentle curve
of the 24 carat gold Frog Prince earrings highlights
the textural surface, and skilful details, including the
playful crown and tiny frog on the inside.
www.frenchsdairy.com

Glass intaglio and cameo

four-part bracelet
£465
This stunning bracelet by Anton Heunis
features four cameo and intaglios set in
decorative antique bronze mounts, in a similar
style to the fashion made popular around 1910
by the designer Renee Lalique. The glass
stones have been hand carved in Bavaria by
designer Stefanie Freydont. The bracelet is
handmade in Northern California, measures
20cm by 4cm and fastens with a toggle.
www.frenchsdairy.com
motoring

HMC Hidalgo
S wiss Helvetic Motor Company will be using a Mercedes-Benz SLK 55 AMG as the base
for the soon to be launched HMC Hidalgo. Already looking like a modern classic, with a
cheeky nod to the Bugatti Type 57, the car has been designed by a team of engineers with
F1 experience amongst their ranks. The Hidalgo will have a 355-horsepower (265-KW,
360-PS) V8 engine, although if you want to give it a bit more grunt you can pay extra.
Only six cars will be produced annually, with a starting price of around €310,000.
o
Aston Martin
the real james Bond movie car
comes up for sale at auction

T
he Aston Martin DB5 driven by Sean Connery
in Goldfinger is up for sale by auction. The car
comes with the full complement of famous
Bond ‘gadgets’, fitted by the Factory, including
machine guns, bullet-proof shield, revolving number
plates, tracking device, removable roof panel, oil
slick sprayer, nail spreader and smoke
screen — all controlled by toggles and
switches hidden in the centre
arm-rest.
Two Aston Martin DB5s
were used on screen
for the production
DB5
of the timeless 1960’s James Bond classics,
Goldfinger and Thunderball. The other car was
reported stolen in 1997 and is believed to have
been destroyed.
Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 and its gadgets were
the brainchild of Oscar-award-winning special
effects expert John Stears, also of Star Wars and
Chitty Chitty Bang Bang fame.
The FMP 7B was the 'Road Car' used in
Goldfinger and featured in various locations and
was given substantial screen time, most notably
the scenes at the Stoke Park Club and iconically
when Bond was spying on Mr. Goldfinger from
the picturesque Furka Pass in Switzerland.
For Thunderball, FMP 7B was to have most of
the screen time, so it was fitted with the full
complement of gadgets. Its specification has not
changed since its appearance in Thunderball and
virtually all its distinctive gadgets remain intact.
Sold in 1969 to American Mr. Jerry Lee — FMP
7B’s first ex-factory and remaining owner. Mr. Lee
pursued FMP 7B and eventually negotiated its
purchase from the Aston Martin factory for
$12,000. For a time, Mr. Lee agreed to allow
Aston Martin to continue to use FMP 7B for
promotional purposes in the USA. FMP 7B
enjoyed record-breaking crowds at exhibitions on
numerous occasions throughout the 70s, until the
car was pulled from public life in 1977. The
odometer shows approximately 30,000 miles,
mostly, one presumes, from its tour usage.
Proceeds of the sale of FMP 7B will be used to
further the charitable work of ‘The Jerry Lee
Foundation’, a multi-national initiative dedicated to
solving social problems associated with poverty,
with an emphasis on crime prevention.

RM Auctions ‘Automobiles of London’:

27 October, 2010

RM Auctions is the world’s largest collector

car auction house and holds four of the five
world record prices for motorcars sold
at auction.
www.rmauctions.com
Visual Acous
 All photographs by Julius Shulman, taken from Visual
Acoustics, an Arthouse Films release 2009. Copyright
J. Paul Getty Trust.

stics

I
n need of vintage photos of San Francisco, Eric
Bricker was led to the work of Julius Shulman.
Not only did a great friendship ensue, a film of
the world’s greatest architectural photographer
was released, celebrating the career of a man
whose images brought modern architecture into
the American mainstream.
Retro Magazine, in this pictorial celebration,
appreciates why the film’s director was so
inspired by Julius Shulman.
Julius Shulman captured the work of nearly every
modern and progressive architect since the 1930s
including Frank Lloyd Wright, Richard Neutra, John
Lautner and Frank Gehry. His images epitomised the
singular beauty of Southern California’s modernist
movement and brought its iconic structures to the
attention of the general public. The film Visual
Acoustic: The Modernism of Julius Shulman is
testament to the evolution of modern architecture and
as the filmmaker Eric Bricker said: “Few people have
had such a profound impact on my life as he has.
Two things were apparent to me upon my initial
meeting with Julius in the spring of 1999. First, the
photography created by the man is nothing short of
astounding, and second, Julius himself is equally
impressive as the work he created.”
V
isual Acoustics has picked up an array of
awards since release, including the
Mercedes-Benz Audience Award for Best
Documentary at the Palm Springs International
Film Festival, the Audience Award for Best
Documentary at the Austin Film Festival, and
Outstanding Achievement in Documentary
Filmmaking at the Newport Beach Film Festival.
As Eric Bricker’s passion for filmmaking grew, so
too did his art consultation firm, Artistic Designs
Unlimited, formed in 1996. It was through
developing an understanding of his clients’ spatial
needs and translating those specifics into original
works of art that enabled Eric to develop a
greater visual vocabulary and sense of design.
But it was only after discovering Shulman’s work
that all the pieces of the puzzle fell into place.
“Few people have had such a profound impact on
my life as he. The true defining characteristic of a
Shulman photograph is that vibrant, uplifting,
profound energy that transcends the two-
dimensional space.”
Prior to filmmaking Eric was active in music and
theatre in St. Louis, Missouri, but with a
grandmother who took him to countless films,
Eric knew that Los Angeles was an inevitable
move. However, before moving to
Los Angeles Eric went on to
graduate from Indiana University
where he received his B.A. in
English Literature with a minor in
Theatre. After graduation Eric
spent the next few years acting
with the California Repertory
Company and the Utah
Shakespearean Festival. Upon
settling in Los Angeles, Eric
turned his focus towards film and
television production where he
worked with such notable talent
as Jerry Seinfeld, Alec Baldwin
and Danny Aiello. Meanwhile,
Eric explored his affinity for
music, playing percussion with
the likes of Lula & Afro-Brasil and
Perry Farrell at Coachella
Festival. It was during this period
that Eric started producing and
directing his own film projects
that lead to Visual Acoustics. “It is
an honor and privilege to work on
a project possessing such depth
and distinction; I do so with the
utmost passion, determination and humble
appreciation. When viewing one of Julius’
‘constructed views’ I am reminded of the potential
for greatness inherent within each individual and
then usually driven to a state of bewilderment
knowing that within the Shulman archive is 8000+
projects dating back to 1927 when Julius started
photographing with a Brownie Box Camera. I
consider Julius my mentor and my friend. The
photography however is only half the story; Julius
himself is the other. Distilled to its barest essence
it is this: Julius is a humanist. His genuine love
for people, culture and the arts preserves my
98-year-old friend as an eternal youth.”
J
ulius Shulman died last year
aged 98, two and a half months
before the release of Visual
Acoustics: The Modernism of Julius
Shulman. In an obituary, his good
friend Ron Field wrote:
“Driving through Los Feliz last year,
I pointed out a building to him. In
vintage Shulman fashion he
answered, ‘You don’t need to tell me
that — I know everything’.”
And when it came to modern
architecture nobody would argue
with that.

For details about Visual Acoustics:

The Modernism of Julius Shulman
go to www.juliusshulmanfilm.com
 Monumental
This Art Deco bridal shoot took place at Eltham Palace in London. The fabulous
dresses including ‘Valerie’ by Sarah Arnett, ‘Kristene’ by Claire Pettibone and two
dresses by Olivia Couture were provided by Blackburn Bridal and were all chosen to
reflect the Art Deco nature of the building and the shoot.

Photographer: Sarah Gawler

Make up: Adjhani Barton
Hair: Nathan Gooding
Occasion
d
escribing her thoughts behind the shoot, Sarah Gawler says: “There were a few
motivations for the shoot. I wanted to show off the Art Deco design of the Eltham
Palace and I felt that our model’s look really encapsulated the decadent spirit of
the 1920s which was perfect. The dresses were also chosen according to the venue
with the exception of the Olivia Couture swirl dress, which was shot in an Italian style
room adjacent to the iconic circular entrance hall. The soft, vintage styled bouquet
worked well with all the dresses and the final shots with the black bobbed wig were
an homage to Louise Brooks, the Art Deco pin-up herself!”
Modern English

Photographer: Simon Eldon

Hair & Make Up: Adjhani Barton
Models: Jaime Docherty at BM Models and Duncan Copeland
Venue: Rock & Roller - www.rock8roller.co.uk
Brown Check Suit £325,
Button Down Collar Shirt £45,
Slim Silk Tonik Tie £19 all by
Adam of London, available
from Adamoflondon.com
Tonik Suit £350, Button Down
Collar Shirt £45, Silk Tie £19 all
by Adam of London available
from Adamoflondon.com
Navy Monkey Jacket by Madcap England £34.99
available from AtomRetro.com;
White Polo by Ben Sherman £40 available from
Scootssuitsandboots.com;
Bukta Flight Bag by Bukta Vintage £28.99 available
from AtomRetro.com
on left) Sunday Morning Polo by Madcap England £34.99;
(on right) Saturday Morning Cardigan by Madcap England £39.99.
Can also be purchased as a two piece matching set at £64.99 from
AtomRetro.com
Racing Coleridge Turtle
Neck Jumper by Madcap
England £39.99;
Cavern 59 Black Jeans by
Madcap England £29.99.
Both available from
AtomRetro.com
Chequered b/w Shirt by Ben Sherman £50
available from Scootssuitsandboots.com;
(on right) Purple Knightsbridge Shirt by Madcap
England £34.99 available from AtomRetro.com
Photo: Merry Phillips
Headline Act
T
heatrical milliner, Uma Turan, began by
studying etching and sculpture, but due
to her love of fabric and jewellery,
moved on to study theatrical millinery with
Jane Smith. She completed her formal
education in millinery at the Kensington and
Chelsea College, and then went on to work
for two years with celebrity milliner Stephen
Jones whose work is represented in the
permanent collections of the Victoria & Albert
Museum and the Louvre, and who has
collaborated with Vivienne Westwood,
Jean-Paul Gaultier and John Galliano for Dior.
Today Uma works from her studio in
London, and is dedicated to creating bespoke
pieces for weddings, the races and social
occasions; working with clients to ensure
each piece is as unique as it is astonishing.
Retro: Who or what are your main inspirations
when it comes to design?

Uma: I love the 1950's glamorous look. When I

make a hat I always imagine that era's models
like Dorian Leigh, Dovima or Georgia Hamilton
wearing my pieces. When I design I get inspired
by anything that makes me happy and excited, or
sad and thoughtful. Love, emotions, friends, art,
travelling, history, flowers, objects, (particularly
special jewels and gold work), photographs,
opera, music and more... it can be anything

Retro: Which design are you most proud of,

and why?

Uma: I love my theatrical designs as you can use

the traditional millinery techniques, as well as
adding new ideas to the piece.

Retro: Your pieces are often bold and striking, is it

your aim for your hats to surprise, even shock?

Uma: I do love surprises myself so I do love

Photo: Sophie Pycroft

surprising others as well. I hope in a nice way!

Retro: What is your most daring hat to date, and

who/what was it for?

Uma: I designed the most beautiful hat for one of reflected your own sense of style, what would it
my clients, which was totally made out of look like?
crystals. I think that was the most daring hat ever.
Very recently I made a giant Napoleon Hat for
Uma: I love 1950's style button winter berets.
great British interior designer David Carter.

Retro: Stars, such as Lady Gaga, have
championed fashion that pushes the boundaries.
Do you think there is a current revival in theatrical
clothing and self-expression via fashion?
Uma: I do think there will always be relation
between expressing yourself with fashion. I think
people will always use traditional and past with
new and now!
Retro: Which era do you think best celebrated the
hat and why?
Uma: Until the end of the 50s hats were always
celebrated and worn by nations. I think in the last
couple of years hats have again made a
comeback into daily life. In addition to weather
conditions, I think recent theatrical music videos
also makes a huge impact on young fashion
followers.

Retro: If you had to design a hat to wear that Retro: What are your favourite types of materials
to you work with, and are there any limitations?

Uma: I work with a variety of materials. Absolutely

no limitations! I absolutely love working with silk,
felt, diamontes and crystals.

Retro: Are your hats more art than fashion?

Uma: I think some of my hats are wearable but

mostly on the formal line. This summer I made
lots of smart and fun sun hats as well as hats for
weddings and races. Some of my pieces are far
too theatrical to be worn but those rest on hat
blocks in my studio that clients normally try on for
fun, sometimes asking for a toned down version
to wear. But you can definitely put it on a old hat

Photo: Ksenia Belash

block and keep it as an artwork.

Retro: You've worked with the likes of Jane Smith

and Stephen Jones — what did you learn from
that experience?

Uma: Absolutely everything I know. They are

wonderful living millinery legends. Also my first
teacher was the wonderful Kirsten Scott, who
was a milliner for Karl Lagerfeld for many years,
and I learned many feather techniques from Ian
Bennett who worked on plenty of Queen's hats.
I am a very lucky person to know such
amazing tutors.

Retro: If you could design a hat for anyone in the

world, who would it be?

Uma: I would love to make a hat for 1950's

supermodel Dovima. I think she would carry them
rather well.

Retro: If you weren't a theatrical milliner, what

would you be?

Uma: I can see myself as a potter. I love drawing

Photo: Sophie Pycroft

Iznik Ceramic patterns.

To see more of Uma’s work visit:

www.umaturan.com
QUEEN OF HEARTS
Retro’s roving reporter, Nadine Sharma, experiences a curiouser
and curiouser Saturday afternoon as she unlocks the door to a
veritable vintage wonderland

L
ast Sunday morning — and not for the first The invite promised an afternoon of “fun,
time — I woke up and thought I was a bit of fashion and frivolity” for girls who’d like some
a tart yesterday. In fact, I was a lot of a tart. vaudeville glamour in their lives, but also came
Actually, I’ll be totally honest with you, on with the slightly intimidating dress code of “Drop
Saturday between the hours of 2 and Dead Gorgeous”, further qualified by
6pm, I was a complete tart. “I’ve fallen “absolutely no jeans or you will be sent
It’s not usually something I so readily home in tears”. Yowsers. So, dressed to
admit to, but I’m going to share the
down a rabbit impress even the most discerning of
whole experience with you because it hole in the Glamazon bouncers, I tottered
was delicious, delightful and achingly purposefully up Mile End Road.
fabulous.
middle of The event was sold out, as always, to
Tart is a monthly event held at East London, a galaxy of femme fatales ranging in
London’s prestigious 40 WiNKS hotel age and reason for being there,
— a venue paid no small compliment
and it feels including a hen party, a 40th birthday
by German Vogue for being the “most great” celebration and a mother and daughter
beautiful small hotel in the world”. It’s day out. Some had even travelled from
hosted by a holy trinity of glamour: David Carter, as far afield as Milan just to attend this event
interior designer extraordinaire and society — so my intrigue was well and truly piqued.
dandy; sumptuous pin-up queen Fleur de Guerre; All of a sudden, Master of Ceremonies, David
and Vintage Secret’s Naomi Thompson. Carter, burst through the front door, asked us
outright if we were all tarts, and then grandly recently) had tailor-made a decadent spread of
welcomed us in. I felt a sudden rush of bling to smoked salmon and cucumber sandwiches,
the head as I excitedly bobbed in and out of cakes, sweets and treats. All delicious.
lavish rooms filled with sparkly jewellery, But that was just the icing on the cakes, literally.
heavenly hats, vintage dresses and more The entertainment alters each month, and this
make-up than a girl could dream of. It’s that initial time we found ourselves being dolled up by
sense of disorientation muddled with anticipation professional make-up artists from catwalk
that adds to the magic of Tart. All of a sudden, favourites GlamSpot Cosmetics — a range of
you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole in the contemporary powders and glosses
middle of East London, and it “David enriched with vitamin E and jojoba oil
feels great. that treats your skin on the outside and
And if 40 WiNKS is the rabbit hole,
Carter asked in! Vintage hairstylists, Lipstick and
then David Carter is definitely the Mad us outright if Curls, gave us all a ‘do’ Bettie Page
Hatter. Naughty, flirty and fun, he would be proud of, as well as the
dishes out compliments as though they
we were all chance to dress up in an array of
were sweets, and lets loose his acerbic tarts” gorgeous vintage outfits.
tongue whenever he sees fit. All in all, Then it was on to the tongue-in-cheek
the perfect host for a surrealist’s pleasurable educational element to the afternoon, which has
Saturday afternoon. previously seen ex-Diary Editor of Tatler, Liz
Each ticket costs £80, which is a fair old chunk Brewer, giving a talk on how to achieve the
of a girl’s hard-earned cash, so I was keen to see perfect kiss. Oo-er missus! We had Fleur De
exactly what Tartlets get for their money. For Guerre expounding the various ways we can be
starters, each guest has access to unlimited more ‘vintage glamorous’ in our everyday lives,
cocktails specially created for the event — we followed by a Hendrick’s Cocktail Making
had a yummy concoction of gin, elderflower and Masterclass, which taught even the
pressed apple juice. The truly brilliant outfit mixologically-challenged amongst us how to
Vintage Patisserie (you may have seen Dragons make the best Tom Collins in the land.
Theo and Deborah wowed by them in the Den Renowned angelologist and author, Angela
McGerr, was on hand to give guests angelic life
guidance. And as if saving the best for last, the
top floor was transformed into a pampering
boudoir where massage specialists, Xhilarate,
worked their extraordinary magic using gentle
manipulation and acupressure techniques.
Tart also attracts some fab up-and-coming retro
designers so you can check out and buy
jewellery, hats and accessories from the likes of
Passionate About Vintage, Pauper and Plush and
theatrical milliner Uma Turan — all doing new
and exciting things with vintage components.
Amongst the mayhem, I found time to catch up
with the co-hosts and founders of the event to
find out why they felt there was a need for Tart.
“We wanted to create an event where ladies
could have a fabulous afternoon,” says David.
“No-one has much time to pamper themselves
any more. Tart is a celebration of glamour, style
and of being a woman.”
And then he said something that really rang
true: “Women today are career-orientated and
ambitious. But sometimes, showing your
womanly side can be seen as a handicap, a
declaration of weakness. Tart is somewhere you
can come to be self-indulgent, frivolous and
unashamedly girly.”
And it’s true. The last time I’d been this girly and
FLEUR DE GUERRE’S 
VINTAGE GLAMOUR TIPS
• A great cheat is to use Babyliss Hot
Sticks to create those fantastic 40’s curls
— they take 20 mins as opposed to the
old-fashioned pin curls or rollers that
would have to be in for hours, or even
overnight.
• The Red Lipstick Test — as a general
rule of thumb look at the veins on the
inside of your wrist. If they are purple,
you have a warm tone and should go for
pinky reds. If they are green, you have
a cool tone and should aim for the
orangey reds.
• Seamed stockings add vintage glamour
to any outfit, and Fleur is a big fan of
ones with a nude seam if you want to
wean yourself onto them, rather than
going straight in at the deep end with
the black seam.
playful I was seven years old, and wildly my fellow Tarts. I could see they’d loved every
rummaging through my friend’s make-up and minute and they looked fantastic. They told me
dressing-up box with very little success. But in the best thing about the day was being able to
my everyday life, there is something that holds escape from the outside world and just grab
me back from wearing girly hats, high heels, a some time to themselves.
bright red lippy or dazzling accessories. Tart All in all, by the end of the four-hour experience,
gave me the excuse I’d spent 23 years looking you may have spent £80 but you do feel a million
for — to spend four solid hours on nothing else. dollars. This Tart’s not very good at maths, but
Not being an exponent myself, I wondered what that definitely seems like a good deal to me.
it was about the vintage look that got people so
hooked. Talking to Fleur, who told me her
previous incarnations had included punk and
rockabilly, I understood she saw vintage as
another way to break out of the norm: “Being
immaculately dressed is a way of rebelling in
some ways. People are fed up of the wash & go,
tousled hair and smudgy eyeliner look. I just want
to look pristine.”
As the afternoon drew to a close, I wandered
round the house picking up my belongings that
I’d strewn all around like an impulsive teen during
my transformation process, and said goodbye to
Room With A
W hat do an opulent two-room town house
in East London, a retro-futurist boutique
in Paris, an ex-gangsters’ haunt in New York
and an exquisitely renovated Art Deco hotel in
Prague all have in common?
Well, they’re all pushing the boundaries of what
to expect from your stay on a weekend
city break.
Retro Magazine delves into its little black book
of favourite haunts and showcases some
outstanding hotels that won’t leave you feel
dirty after a weekend on the tiles.
 Image supplied by Design Hotels

View
Images supplied by The Bowery Hotel

T he Bowery’s 130 opulent rooms, stylish lobby
and 24-hour room service don’t betray a
neighbourhood where punk rock and gangsters
once ruled, but this hotel, synonymous with the
area, comes with a colourful history.
In 1945 hotel manager Bowery Bill (Shipp),
funded by the Barzini crime family, commissioned
hitman Aldo Trapani to whack some troublesome
guests (makes note not to oversleep at this
For further information about The Bowery visit: www.theboweryhotel.com
New York
hotel!). After a successful hit Trapani was given
a percentage of the hotel's earnings and bought
a hotel room on the second floor for $20,000.
In 1955, Corleone-family associate Marty Malone
thought there was an informant in the hotel
leaking information to the FBI. He eliminated
the agent, who was guarded by several
Barzini thugs, before being revealed as a
traitor himself.
Paris
T he overall effect at Kube Hotel is of an oddly comfy space
capsule. Tucked into a quiet street at the summit of Paris’
Montmartre, Kube fits into a Jacques Tati vision of modernity.
1960s sci-fi themed furnishings and décor are punctuated by
a cavernous lobby-cum-restaurant-cum-bar at the heart of
Kube Hotel with a futuristic, low-lit space and high ceilings,
stainless steel accents and a state-of-the-art-sound system
camouflaged in red ceiling lanterns.
The "Ice Kube" bar on the mezzanine features Eero Aarnio’s
1968 Bubble Chairs and a vodka-only drinks menu. The 26
guestrooms and 15 suites have room access controlled by
biometric-fingerprint technology as well as beds lit from
beneath, giving a slightly unearthly edge to the warmth.

For further information about Kube Paris visit:

www.designhotels.com
Images supplied by Design Hotels
Images supplied by 40 WiNKS
 London
L ocated in vibrant and trendy East London, David Carter’s home is an elegant and
historic four storey Queen Anne townhouse built in 1717. David is an internationally
acclaimed interior designer with his extensive work generating hundreds of editorial
pages in leading interiors magazines worldwide. With two guest bedrooms, 40 WiNKS,
is being launched to help give photographers, stylists, art directors, designers, buyers,
models and anyone in the creative and fashion industries somewhere fun and different
to stay when they are in London for work or pleasure.
The concept is simple. To offer a ‘home from home’... a place where you can hang your
hat or park your suitcase while enjoying a little bit of understated opulence and a large
dose of quirky style, all at a very affordable price. But be warned dahlings, if you want to
stay here during fashion week, you’ll have to book early!
For further information about 40 WiNKS visit: www.40winks.org
Prague
O riginally built in 1914 the Prague Imperial Art Deco
Hotel has recently been restored to its former glory
providing Art Deco lovers a treasure trove of features
combined with superb accommodation in 126 luxury,
high-ceiling rooms and suites. The hotel is situated in the
heart of Prague’s historical, UNESCO-protected city
centre, only a few steps away from the Municipal House
and a short walk from the Old Town Square.
Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel was awarded membership
of World Hotels Deluxe Collection — a select group of
highly distinctive properties around the world recognised
for excellent services and exclusive ambience.

For further information about Prague Imperial Art

Deco Hotel visit: www.hotel-imperial.cz
Images supplied by Prague Imperial Art Deco Hotel
 Field of Dre
C
hris Haddon and Jane Field-Lewis were
musing over their shared love of retro
caravans at a farm in Sussex, England
(where they store their caravans), when the idea
for the book My Cool Caravan was hatched.
Chris, a multi-disciplinary designer with
almost 20 years experience, has a 60's Airstream
caravan he has converted into his studio in the
garden, plus a 70's Airstream and a 70's
European caravan which are both used for short
breaks with his partner and two young children.
Jane Field-Lewis, a London based stylist,
working in film and photography, is co-owner
of a 70’s caravan which she has re-styled in a
retro-modern mix.
Retro Magazine, always keen on a bit of
‘glamping’, picks out a selection of our favourite
images from the book.
eams

The Caravan Club set itself a brief to design an environmentally friendly

caravan to put the green into caravaning. The club started with a European
Airstream and installed a wealth of energy-saving features and recycled
materials. Power is delivered via roof-mounted solar panels, hot water
through a wood burning stove and stored in a Harley Davidson fuel tank, all
finished off with a composting toilet.
Photograph by: Hilary Walker
Photograph by: Hilary Walker

Shasta started out making

trailer homes for the US
armed forces in 1941 and by
the mid-50s the boom in
mobile homes and travel
trailers made Shasta one of
the most popular brands due
to their good value and low
costs. However, by the latter
half of the 20th Century the
brand had all but disappeared.
In 2008, a modern but
retro-styled Shasta Airflyte
caravan with a state of the art
interior and trademark wings,
had been re-introduced into
the market.
Photograph by: Hilary Walker
 Dutch manufacturer Mostard produced
caravans from 1959 until the late 70s.
They are collectors’ items, particularly
in Holland, with clubs devoted to them.
The owner of this van, Neil, spotted it
Photograph by: Chris Haddon

in an outbuilding in Holland. “It was

completely untouched. The owner had
no intention of getting rid of it but after
some persuasion he agreed to sell it to
us. It has since gone undergone a
complete and sympathetic restoration.
I have carried out some research and
have found this could be the very first
of its kind.”

Photograph by: Chris Haddon

My Cool Caravan by Jane Field-Lewis & Chris Haddon

celebrates the new wave of interest in modern-retro
caravanning.
Published by Pavilion RRP: £14.99 www.anovabooks.com
Retrospective
Martyn Ware
Martyn Ware was born in 1956 in Sheffield, UK. In 1978 he formed The
Human League, then after leaving the band, he formed the production
company/label British Electric Foundation and Heaven 17 in 1980.
Martyn has written, performed and produced two Human League, two
BEF and nine Heaven 17 albums. As a record producer and artist he
has featured on recordings totalling over 50 million sales worldwide,
producing among others Tina Turner, Terence Trent D'Arby,
Chaka Khan, Erasure, Marc Almond and Mavis Staples.
Heaven 17 have announced a 30th anniversary UK tour of their
critically acclaimed 1981 concept album ‘Penthouse And Pavement’
which they will perform in its entirety. Martyn is also a curator at Vintage
at Goodwood and produces and presents an ongoing series of events
entitled Future Of Sound in the UK and around the world.

what do you collect?
I used to collect American comics; I’ve kept my
collection and I’ll give them to my son and he’ll
probably go: “What the hell are these?”. No, he
does like them, but the funny thing is everybody
is making films of them now. My collection is
worth thousands because I’ve got some really
quite rare things. I used to have a couple of
thousand of them but I got rid of some when
I moved house. I collect music but more in the
MP3 format now...I’ve still got about a thousand
vinyl in my studio.
was a big deal for me and he said at the end of
the interview “that’s one of the most perceptive
and intelligent interviews I’ve ever done about the
miners’ strike” — then of course Capital Radio
wouldn’t play it!! (laughs) There you go, I’ll never
get played on Capital Radio again.
what is your favourite film of all time?
A Clockwork Orange (where both Heaven 17 and
The Human League take their name from). I’m
very fond of Blade Runner and Close Encounters
of the Third Kind and those type of Sci-fi films.

Do you have a 20th century hero?
Tony Benn. I was asked to interview ‘My Hero’ for
a Capital Radio (London) series. This was in the
mid-80s at the time of the miners’ strike and we
did a fantastic interview, such a charming guy,
absolutely open. He said, “do you mind if I record
this?”, and so I’m in his room, where he has a
recording of every interview he has ever done.
Obviously I’m from Sheffield so the miners’ strike
what was your first job?
I was a trainee manager at the Co-op in Sheffield.
I was paid a £1000 a year.
who is your all time favourite actor?
Gene Hackman. Everything I’ve seen him in,
apart from Superman, he’s been great. I really
liked him in Eureka by Nicolas Roeg, which is a
very underrated and underexposed film. I also
think Leonardo DiCaprio is pretty darn good, of
the contemporary bunch. He’s a perfect example
of it being about the roles you choose, he’s very
smart about which ones he selects. I thought he
was excellent in Gangs of New York.
what’’s your favourite retro shop?
Oh god, I can’t remember the name of it, it’s near
Spitalfields [in London] — Beyond Retro, that’s it,
I love it. Me and my daughter are always trawling
through there for vintage stuff.

Do you have a favourite song? Have you lost anything that you really
It’s almost impossible but for all round magic it regret?
would be The Beach Boys’ ‘Good Vibrations’, My sense of naivety! No...when I was very poor
although it’s a very close run thing with ‘You’ve and had to move flats, I did a moonlight. It’s the
lost that Loving Feeling’ by The Righteous only time in my life I’ve done it and of course it
Brothers. didn’t work and I had to pay it back. Because I
had done it literally overnight, at that time in the
Give us a record to get the place flat I had about a thousand comics and I had to
jumping? leave about 700 of
Without a doubt it them and I really
would have to be regret that. They
James Brown and would have been
probably, there’s so worth about £5K
many to pick from, definitely a false
hhhmmm I probably economy...really
wouldn’t go for ‘Sex stupid.
Machine’ although it
is fantastic. It’s a what’’s your
little bit self-serving
favourite drink?
but I often put on
I’ve just stopped
‘Dance Little Sister’
drinking but I do have
by Terence Trent
a favourite drink. It’s
D’Arby which I
making me salivate
produced. That
just thinking about it.
always gets
A Hendrick’s Gin
people going. Martini with a twist of
lemon. Lovely!
And one record
to chill to... what is your
I’d put on Mahler’s favourite building and why?
‘Sixth Symphony’; it’s quite a nice counter I’m absolutely obsessed with architecture... it
balance to all the pop music I listen to. I’m a big would have to be the Doge’s Palace in Venice, I
fan of classical music, I go to a lot of the Proms. admire it greatly.
It’s not like I’m from a posh family, so for me
everything is a bonus when it comes to classical
who or what has been the biggest
music as it wasn’t part of my life when I was
growing up. I acquired a taste for it like fine wine! influence on your life?
Music. It’s a bland answer but my life would have
been entirely different if it hadn’t taken that path.
what’’s your favourite street market?
In Sheffield I’m not sure what the alternative
The fish market at the Rialto in Venice. It’s
would have been. In the words of the great John
absolutely staggering.
Miles ‘music was my first love and will by last’.

where did you have your most
memorable meal?
I think it was when I went to Nobu for the first
time. I love Japanese food. I love spicy food.
I love my food, I hate the word foodie, but I guess
I am one. I’m extremely knowledgeable about
food, actually I would regard myself as
obsessive! (laughs)
which career would you have most
likely have followed if you weren’’t
doing what you are today?
I would have ended up being the manager at the
Co-op or possibly have moved into being a
computer operative although I never fancied the
boring systems analysis work.
what is your proudest achievement?
From a musical point of view I’m most proud of
the album Luxury Gap. That’s when I think we hit
our peak of innovation and excellence. From an
artistic point of view I wrote a piece, actually this
is probably my proudest moment, that was
performed at the Royal Ballet — I got presented
on stage as the composer by the dancers. Then
you go down into the Royal Opera [House]’s
archives, that’s a proud achievement for a lad
from Sheffield.
If you could live in any decade, which
one, and why?
I’ve had a whale of a time every decade I’ve lived
in. The 70s and 80s were pretty much peak time
for the things I liked. But I’m very fond of the
music of the 60s, not such a Beatles fan, but the
late 60s more psychedelic, when America was
developing with early soul and funk of bands like
Earth, Wind and Fire and Charles Stepney
Productions. If I had been a little bit older during
that period it would have been great to see them.
Have you ever ’splashed’ the cash on
something big?
Yes. My apartment in Venice. It wasn’t that
expensive...but I don’t drive, I don’t want a yacht
or a power boat. I used to come to Venice a lot
and spend a lot of money on hotels and I thought
it would be fantastic....after Terence Trent
D’Arby’s first album I couldn’t think of anything
else I wanted except a nice flat in Venice. It was
the best decision I ever made. It’s saved me a
fortune in therapy! (laughs)
Is there one thing you want to do
before you depart the stage?!
I would like to take a year out and write a serious
piece of contemporary (orchestral) music. It
would be just for the joy of it. If somebody wants
to support me. I need a rich patron! That would
be my dream!
The Penthouse &and Pavement tour
starts 22nd November.
tickets available from:
www.seetickets.com
www.heaven17.com
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