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MEXICO CIT Y
Mexico City
When people first arrive in the Distrito Federal, they find a civilized, likeable destination, with
serene parks, delightful plazas and vibrant street life, brimming with history, architecture
and culture. Like any great metropolis, Mexico City presents a mosaic of scenes. One eas-
ily shifts from lucha libre to experimental theater, street markets to sleek shopping malls,
tamales to fusion cuisine. Compared with many North American cities, streets feel safe for
strolling, and the residents are remarkably patient and accommodating.

Mexico City is the political, financial and cultural nerve center, and to understand Mexico
one should spend some time here. People continue to move to Mexico City and it has
become a more livable place. Strict emission controls have reduced pollution, and mass-
transit solutions have addressed traffic problems. The Condesa and Roma neighborhoods
have blossomed as nightlife zones, while the Centro Histrico is being made over as a
vibrant cultural quarter.

Part modern metropolis, part monstrosity, Mexico City encapsulates the contemporary
urban experience. Perhaps more than any city on earth, it is at the intersection of the first and
third worlds, with all the ills and thrills that suggests. The modern heir to one of the ancient
worlds most remarkable cities Tenochtitln it remains a city of epic proportions.

TOP FIVE

 Surveying the incredible architectural


catalogue of the Centro Histrico (p128) Arena
Coliseo El Nivel
 Ambling through Parque Mxico (p136) Centro
Parque Histrico
in spring, when the are jacarandas in Mxico

bloom
 Enjoying a dish of roasted peanuts and
caballito of tequila at El Nivel (p166), the
nations first registered cantina
 Cheering on the good guys at the lucha
libre bouts of Arena Coliseo (p175)
 Cruising Xochimilcos back canals to the
Isla de las Muecas (Island of the Dolls; Isla de las
Muecas
p150)

 TELEPHONE CODE: 55  JANUARY DAILY HIGH: 21C | 70.3F  ELEVATION: 2240 M


 POPULATION: 18 MILLION  JULY DAILY HIGH 23C | 73.8F
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MEXICO CIT Y

HISTORY sought a marriage alliance with Culhuacn,


As early as 10,000 BC, humans were attracted Cocoxtli rashly offered his own daughters
to the Lago de Texcoco, the lake that then hand to the Aztec chieftain. But when he
covered much of the floor of the Valle de arrived at the wedding banquet, his pride
Mxico. After 7500 BC the lake started turned to horror: a dancer was garbed in
shrinking, hunting became more difficult, the flayed skin of his daughter, who had
and the inhabitants turned to agriculture. been sacrificed to Huizilopochtli. Fleeing
A loose federation of farming villages had from the wrath of Culhuacn, the Aztecs
evolved around Lago de Texcoco by 200 BC. wandered around the swampy fringes of
The biggest, Cuicuilco, was destroyed by a the lake, finally reaching an island near
volcanic eruption about AD 100. the western shore around 1325. There, ac-
Breakthroughs in irrigation techniques cording to legend, they witnessed an eagle
and the development of an economy based standing on a cactus and eating a snake,
on the cultivation of maize contributed to which they interpreted as a sign to stop
the rise of a civilization at Teotihuacn, and build a city, Tenochtitln. (The eagle
40km northeast of the lake. For centuries depicted on the Mexican flag refers to this
Teotihuacn was the capital of an empire event.)
whose influence was felt as far away as Tenochtitln rapidly became a sophisti-
Guatemala. However, unable to sustain its cated city-state whose empire would, by the
burgeoning population, it fell in the 8th early 16th century, span most of modern-
century. The Toltecs, possibly descended day central Mexico from the Pacific to
from the nomadic tribes who invaded Teo- the Gulf of Mexico and into far southern
tihuacn, arose as the next great civiliza- Mexico. The Aztecs built their city on a
tion, building their capital at Tula, 65km grid plan, with canals as thoroughfares
north of modern-day Mexico City. By the and causeways to the lakeshore. At the
12th century the Tula empire had collapsed citys heart stood the main teocalli (sacred
as well, leaving a number of small state- precinct), with its temple dedicated to
lets to compete for control of the Valle de Huizilopochtli and the water god, Tlloc.
Mxico. It was the Aztecs who emerged In the marshier parts of the island, they
supreme. created raised gardens by piling up vegeta-
tion and mud, and planting willows. These
Aztec Mexico City chinampas (versions of which can still be
The Aztecs, or Mexica (meh-shee-kah), seen at Xochimilco in southern Mexico
arrived a century after the decline of the City) gave three or four harvests yearly but
Toltecs. A wandering tribe that claimed were still not enough to feed the growing
to have come from the mythical region population.
of Aztln in northwest Mexico or further To supplement their resources, the
north, they offered their skills as fighters to Aztecs extracted tribute from conquered
the dominant Tepaneca tribe who resided tribes. In the mid-15th century they formed
on the lakes western shore. The Tepanecas the Triple Alliance with the lakeshore
allowed the Aztecs to settle upon the inhos- states Texcoco and Tlacopan to conduct
pitable terrain of Chapultepec, but other wars against Tlaxcala and Huejotzingo,
tribes objected to Aztec habits like wife- which lay east of the valley. The purpose
stealing and human sacrifice (to appease was to gain a steady supply of prisoners
Huizilopochtli, the hummingbird god). to sate Huizilopochtlis vast hunger for
In the early 14th century, warriors sacrificial victims, so that the sun would
of Culhuacn, on the southern shore, rise each day.
launched an attack on the Tepanecas, their When the Spanish arrived in 1519,
chief rivals, enslaving the Aztec mercenar- Tenochtitlns population was an esti-
ies. Eventually the Aztecs played the same mated 200,000 to 300,000, and that of
role for their new masters, and Cocoxtli, the whole Valle de Mxico was perhaps
Culhuacns ruler, sent them into battle 1.5 million, already making it one of the
against nearby Xochimilco. The Aztecs de- worlds densest urban areas. For an ac-
livered over 8000 human ears to Cocoxtli count of the Spanish conquest of Tenoch-
as proof of their victory. When the Aztecs titln, see p48.
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MEXICO CIT Y
Capital of Nueva Espaa Modern Megalopolis
So assiduously did the Spanish raze After Daz fell in 1911, the Mexican Revo-
Tenochtitln that only a handful of Aztec lution (see p52) brought war, hunger
structures remain standing in Mexico City and disease to the streets of Mexico City.
today. Having wrecked the Aztec capital, Following the Great Depression, a drive
they chose to rebuild it as their own. The to industrialize attracted more money and
conquistador Hernn Corts hoped to people to the city. By 1940 the population
preserve the arrangement whereby Tenoch- had reached 1.7 million. In the 1940s and
titln siphoned off the bounty of its vassal 50s, factories and skyscrapers rose almost
states. as quickly. The supply of housing, jobs
Ravaged by disease, the population of and services could not keep pace with the
the Valle de Mxico shrank drastically by influx of people; shantytowns appeared on
some estimates, from 1.5 million to fewer the citys fringes, and Mexico City began to
than 100,000 within a century of the con- grow uncontrollably.
quest. But the city emerged by 1550 as the Despite continued economic growth into
prosperous, elegant capital of Nueva Es- the 1960s, political and social reform lagged
paa. Broad, straight streets were laid out, behind, as was made painfully evident by
and buildings were constructed to Spanish the massacre of hundreds of students in the
designs with local materials such as tezon- lead-up to the 1968 Olympic Games (see
tle, a red volcanic rock that the Aztecs had the boxed text, p106).
used for their temples. Hospitals, churches, In the 1970s Mexico City continued to
palaces and a university were built. But, grow at an alarming rate, spreading beyond
lacking natural drainage, the city suffered the Distrito Federal (DF) into the adjacent
floods caused by the partial destruction state of Mxico and developing some of
in the 1520s of the Aztecs canals. Lago the worlds worst traffic and pollution,
de Texcoco often overflowed, damaging only partly alleviated by the metro system
buildings, bringing disease and forcing (opened in 1969) and by attempts in the
thousands of people to relocate. 1990s to limit traffic. On September 19,
1985, an earthquake measuring over eight
Independence on the Richter scale hit Mexico City, killing
On October 30, 1810, some 80,000 inde- at least 10,000, displacing thousands more
pendence rebels, fresh from victory at and causing more than $4 billion in dam-
Guanajuato, overpowered Spanish loyal- age. But people continued to pour in.
ist forces just west of the capital. But they Since 1940 Mexico City has multiplied
were not sufficiently equipped to capitalize in area over 10 times, yet its still one of
on this triumph, and their leader Miguel the worlds most crowded metropolitan
Hidalgo chose not to advance on the city areas. Today the city counts 18 million
a decision that cost Mexico 11 more years of inhabitants, around a sixth of the countrys
fighting before independence was achieved. population. Though growth has slowed in
By 1821 the citys population had swelled the last decade, there are still some 600
to 160,000, making it the biggest in the newcomers daily and the population is
Americas. expected to top 20 million by 2010. It is the
Mexico City entered the modern age industrial, financial and communications
under the despotic Porfirio Daz, who center of the country; its industries generate
ruled Mexico for most of the period from more than one-third of Mexicos wealth,
1877 to 1911 and attracted much foreign and its people consume two-thirds of
investment. Daz ushered in a construction Mexicos energy. Its cost of living is the
boom, building Parisian-style mansions highest in the nation.
and theaters to serve the citys elite. Some Heavy subsidies are needed to keep the
150km of electric tramways threaded the city from seizing up. Water extraction from
streets, industry grew, and by 1910 the city the subsoil makes the city sink steadily
had 471,000 inhabitants. A drainage canal parts of the center sank 10m in the 20th
and tunnel finally succeeded in drying up century. Even so, one-third of the citys
much of Lago de Texcoco, allowing further water must be pumped in at great cost from
expansion. outside the Valle de Mxico; and because
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MEXICO CIT Y

there is no natural drainage, waste water ORIENTATION


must be pumped back out. Mexico Citys 350 colonias (neighborhoods)
From 1928 to 1997 the federal govern- sprawl across the ancient bed of Lago de
ment ruled DF directly, with federally Texcoco and beyond. Though this vast
appointed regents heading notoriously cor- urban expanse appears daunting, the main
rupt administrations. Since 1997 the DF has areas of interest to visitors are fairly well
had political autonomy and the chance to defined and easy to traverse.
elect its own mayor. In 2000 Andrs Manuel Note that some major streets, such as Av
Lpez Obrador, a member of the left-leaning Insurgentes, keep the same name for many
PRD (Party of the Democratic Revolution), kilometers, but the names (and numbering)
was elected. Capitalinos generally approved of many lesser streets switch every few
of the mayors initiatives, which included an blocks.
ambitious makeover of the Centro Histrico. Full addresses normally include the colo-
In 2005, the Fox administration attempted to nia. Often the easiest way to find an address
have AMLO removed from his post and is by asking for the nearest metro station.
from political life by prosecuting him on
tenuous contempt-of-court charges. But the Centro Histrico & Alameda Central
plan backfired: when the mayor handed the The historic heart of the city is the wide
reins over to Alejandro Encinas, his chief plaza known as the Zcalo, surrounded
cabinet minister, to launch a presidential by the presidential palace, the metropol-
campaign, he found himself more popular itan cathedral and the excavated site of the
than ever. Elections in 2006 were expected Templo Mayor, the main temple of Aztec
to determine Encinas successor. Tenochtitln. The Zcalo and its surround-

ECHOES OF TLATELOLCO
Nineteen sixty-eight marked a pivotal moment for Mexican democracy. Perhaps due to the sub-
versive mood of the era, unrest was rife and students took to the streets to denounce political
corruption and authoritarianism. Mexico had been chosen that year to host the Olympics, and
President Gustavo Daz Ordaz was anxious to present an image of stability to the world. Known
for his authoritarian style, Daz Ordaz employed heavy-handed tactics to stop the protests, in
turn generating further unrest, with the mantle now being taken up by a broader coalition of
middle-class capitalinos.
On the afternoon of October 2, a week before the Olympics were to begin, a demonstration
was held on Tlatelolcos Plaza de las Tres Culturas. Helicopters hovered overhead and a massive
police contingent cordoned off the zone. Suddenly a flare dropped from one of the choppers
and shots rang out, apparently from the balcony which the protestors had made into a speakers
platform. Police then opened fire on the demonstrators and mayhem ensued. Later, government-
authorized newspaper accounts blamed student snipers for igniting the incident and reported
20 protesters killed, although the real number is acknowledged to be closer to 400. News of the
massacre was swept under the rug and the Olympic games went on without a hitch.
There are numerous theories as to what actually occurred that October day. But the generally
accepted version is that the government staged the massacre, planting snipers on the balcony to
make it seem as if the students had provoked the violence. Many Mexicans viewed the killings
as a premeditated tactic by the government to suppress dissent, permanently discrediting the
post-revolutionary regime.
More than 30 years later, the Tlatelolco massacre was still recalled bitterly by a generation
of Mexicans when President Vicente Fox took office, pledging to bring human-rights abusers to
justice, and it appeared some light would finally be shed on the matter. A special investigator
was appointed and secret files were released for scrutiny. Luis Echeverra, who as minister of the
interior under Daz Ordaz controlled internal security, was questioned. But, whether because the
authorities under investigation stonewalled or because the prosecutor mishandled matters, results
were inconclusive and no convictions were made. Skeptical Mexicans have given up hope the case
will be resolved unless the next administration picks it up again.
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MEXICO CIT Y
ing neighborhoods are known as the Cen- North of the Centro
tro Histrico (Historic Center) and are full Five kilometers north of the center is the
of notable old buildings and interesting Terminal Norte, the largest of the four
museums. North, west and south of the bus terminals. Six kilometers north is the
Zcalo are many good, economical hotels Baslica de Guadalupe, Mexicos most re-
and restaurants. vered shrine.
Av Madero and Av 5 de Mayo (or Cinco
de Mayo) link the Zcalo with the Alam- South of the Centro
eda Central park, eight blocks to the west. Av Insurgentes Sur connects Paseo de
On the east side of the Alameda stands the la Reforma to most points of interest in
magnificent Palacio de Bellas Artes. The the south. Just south of the Zona Rosa is
landmark Torre Latinoamericana (Latin Colonia Roma, a quaint area of Porfiriato-
American Tower) pierces the sky a block era architecture, art galleries and plazas.
south of Bellas Artes, beside one of the West of Roma, 1km to 2km south of the
citys main northsouth arterial roads, the Zona Rosa, is Colonia Condesa, a trendy
Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas. neighborhood with pleasant parks, quiet
streets, and plentiful restaurants and cafs.
Plaza de la Repblica Five to 10km further south are the atmos-
Some 750m west of the Alameda, across pheric former villages of San ngel and
Paseo de la Reforma, is the Plaza de la Coyoacn and the vast campus of the na-
Repblica, marked by the somber, domed tional university. In the southeast of the city
Monumento a la Revolucin. This is a fairly are the canals and gardens of Xochimilco.
quiet, mostly residential area with many
budget and midrange hotels. The districts The Eje System
called San Rafael and Jurez are respectively Besides their regular names, many major
west and south of here. streets are termed Eje (axis). The Eje system
establishes a grid of priority roads across
Paseo de la Reforma the city, supposedly speeding up transport.
Mexico Citys grandest boulevard runs The key northsouth Eje Central Lzaro
through the citys heart, connecting the Crdenas, running from Coyoacn in the
Alameda to the Bosque de Chapultepec. south to Tenayuca in the north, passes
Along the way, the Monumento a la just east of the Alameda Central. Major
Independencia (aka El ngel), the capitals northsouth roads west of the Eje Central
signature monument, marks the northern are termed Eje 1 Poniente, Eje 2 Poniente
side of the Zona Rosa, while the sleek Torre etc, while roads to the east of Eje Central
Mayor, the citys tallest building, stands at are labeled Eje 1 Oriente, Eje 2 Oriente
the eastern end of Chapultepec Park. and so on. The same goes for major east
west roads to the north and south of the
Zona Rosa Alameda Central and Zcalo Rayn is
The Zona Rosa (Pink Zone) is a glitzy shop- Eje 1 Norte, Fray Servando Teresa de Mier
ping, eating, hotel and nightlife district is Eje 1 Sur.
bound by Paseo de la Reforma to the
north, Av Insurgentes to the east and Av Maps
Chapultepec to the south. Mexico City tourist modules hand out
useful color maps with enlargements of
Bosque de Chapultepec the Centro Histrico, Coyoacn and San
The woods of Chapultepec, known to gringos ngel. Those needing more detail should
as Chapultepec Park, are to the west of the pick up a Gua Roji fold-out map of Mexico
Zona Rosa. This large expanse of greenery City ($4), or a Gua Roji Ciudad de Mxico
and lakes is Mexico Citys lungs, and street atlas ($18), updated annually, with a
holds many major museums, including the comprehensive index. Find them at San-
renowned Museo Nacional de Antropologa. borns stores, Librera Sama (see p125) and
North of the park is the swanky Polanco at larger newsstands.
district, filled with embassies and upscale Inegi (Map pp114-15; %5512-1873; Balderas 71,
shopping and dining establishments. Jurez; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri; mJurez), Mexicos
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MEXICO CIT Y

MEXICO CITY IN
Two Days
Day one dawns and youre overlooking the Zcalo from one of the rooftop restaurants on the
plazas west side. For a different angle, climb the bell tower of the Catedral Metropolitana (p128),
then admire Diego Riveras cinematic murals at the Palacio Nacional (p128). Take the Turibs
(p151) for a survey of the citys neighborhoods, getting off in Polanco (p140) or the Zona Rosa
(p136) for lunch and shopping. Spend the evening relaxing at a caf near your hotel, or if youre
up for it, tequila tasting with the mariachis at Plaza Garibaldi. Day two, delve into Mexicos past
at the Museo Nacional de Antropologa (p138) and Castillo de Chapultepec (p137).

Four Days
With a couple more days, head out to the pyramids at Teotihuacn (p195). Spend a morning
roaming around the Alameda Central (p134), making time to acquaint yourself with the Palacio
de Bellas Artes (p134) and Museo Franz Mayer (p134). Have the quintessential Mexican comida
(lunch) at Los Girasoles (p158), then do some artesanas (crafts) shopping at La Ciudadela (p133).
In the evening plug into the lively Condesa (p170) scene.

One Week
Get to know the southern districts: Visit Frida Kahlos Blue House (p144) in Coyoacn; hire a
trajinera (gondola) for a cruise along the ancient canals of Xochimilco (p141); shop for quality
crafts at San ngels Bazar Sbado market (p177). Reserve Wednesday or Sunday evening for
the Ballet Folclrico (p171) at the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

national geographical institute, publishes OTHER AREAS


topographical maps covering the whole Rare-book aficionados can dig up some
country (subject to availability). There is gems in the used bookstores along Av lvaro
also an outlet at the airport (% 5786-0212; Obregn in Colonia Roma.
Sala C; h8:30am-8pm) and their headquarters Cenca (Map pp1201; %5399-5821; Temstocles 73B,
are in Colonia Mixcoc (Map pp110-11; %5278- Polanco; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun;
1000, ext 1207; Patriotismo 711; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri; mPolanco) Wide variety of foreign magazines, plus
mMixcoc). best-sellers in English.
Gandhi (Map p122; %5661-0911; Miguel ngel de
INFORMATION Quevado 121; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat
Bookstores & Sun; mMigeul Angel de Quevado) The large San
Books in English and other languages can ngel branch has outlets on both sides of Quevedo.
be found in top-end hotels and major La Bouquinerie Zona Rosa (Map pp118-19; %5514-
museums, as well as most of the following 0838; Casa de Francia, Havre 15; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri,
bookstores. until 6pm Sat; mInsurgentes); San ngel (Map p122;
%5616-6066; Camino al Desierto de los Leones 40;
CENTRO HISTRICO h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mMigeul
American Bookstore (Map pp114-15; %5512-0306; Angel de Quevado) French bookstore with Le Figaro and
Bolvar 23; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mAllende) Has novels Libration.
and books on Mexico in English, and Lonely Planet guides. Librera Alemana (Map pp118-19; %5533-1002;
Gandhi (Map pp114-15; %5512-4360; Jurez 4; Orizaba 6, Colonia Roma; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri,
h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun; mBellas 11am-4pm Sun; mInsurgentes) German pop fiction and
Artes) Good source of books about Mexico and Mexico City, literature.
and novels in English, plus a worthwhile music section. Librera Pegaso (Map pp118-19; %5208-0174; lvaro
Librera Madero (Map pp114-15; %5510-2068; Obregn 99; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;
Madero 12; h10am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mInsurgentes) Inside the Casa Lamm; carries mostly
mAllende) Great selection of Mexican history, art and Spanish-language titles with a small English literature
architecture, including many secondhand books. section, plus a few Lonely Planet guides.
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MEXICO CIT Y
Emergency Cafenauta (Map pp118-19; %5553-1517; Ensenada
The Polica Turstica, recognizable by the 6, Colonia Condesa; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm
heart-shaped patch on their sleeve, pa- Sun; mPatriotismo)
trol Paseo de la Reforma and the Centro Conecte Caf (Map pp118-19; Gnova 71, cnr Londres;
Histrico. Their function is to help tourists. h10am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm Sun;
They supposedly speak English. mInsurgentes)
Report crimes and get legal assistance Mac Coffee (Map pp118-19; %5525-4391; 1st fl,
through the Unidad Ministerial Especializada Londres 152; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun;
para Atencin al Turista (Map pp114-15; %5592- mInsurgentes) Haven for Macheads.
2665, ext 1114; Paseo de la Reforma 42; h9am-2pm
& 4-6pm Mon-Fri; mHidalgo). You fill out a form, Internet Resources
possibly available at hotels and embassies, in The following sites compile oodles of infor-
English, Spanish and French, describing the mation on the capital. Some offer their pages
incident and submit it to the office, which in English, but the English pages are often not
will address it to the proper authorities. as thorough or are barely comprehensible.
Mobile units of the PGJDF (Federal District Artes Visuales (www.artesvisuales.com.mx in Spanish)
Attorney Generals Office) can assist crime Covers DF galleries and museums.
victims on the spot; call %061. Consejo Nacional Para la Cultura y las Artes (www
Other useful numbers: .cnca.gob.mx in Spanish) Up-to-date guide to DF museums,
Ambulance, Fire (%080) theaters and other cultural institutions.
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %5395-1111) DFiesta en el DF (www.defiestaeneldf.com) Tourism
Hospital ABC (emergency %5230-8161; Sur 136 No 16, departments exhaustive listings with plenty of practical
Colonia Las Amricas; mObservatorio) information.
Hospital ngeles Clnica Londres (emergency %5229- Secretara de Cultura del Distrito Federal (www
8445; Durango 64, Colonia Roma; mCuauhtmoc) .cultura.df.gob.mx in Spanish) DF festivals and museum
Missing persons & vehicles (%5658-1111) events.
Sistema de Transporte Colectivo (www.metro.df
Internet Access .gob.mx in Spanish) All about the Mexico City metro.
Public Internet services are easily found Vive el Centro (www.viveelcentro.com in Spanish)
throughout town. Rates range from $1 to Excellent overview of Centro Histrico places and happen-
$2 per hour, unless otherwise noted. In ings, maintained by the downtown restoration foundation.
addition, many cafs offer wireless Internet
(though oddly, not Starbucks). Laundry
Self-service laundromats have yet to catch
CENTRO HISTRICO on here. The following lavanderas charge
C&X (Map pp114-15; Humboldt 62; h8am-10:30pm Mon- $4 to $6 to wash and dry a 3kg load for you,
Fri, 10am-6pm Sun; mJurez) Adjacent to the YWCA. and only slightly less if you do it yourself.
Esperanto (Map pp114-15; %5512-4123; Independencia Acqualav (Map pp118-19; %5514-7348; Orizaba 42,
66; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mJurez) Colonia Roma; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat,
Keep in Touch (Map pp114-15; %5512-4186; Gante 9am-3pm Sun; mInsurgentes)
6, Pasaje Iturbide; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Lavajet (Map pp118-19; %5207-3032; Ro Danubio
Sun; mAllende) Wireless access and X-Box available, plus 119B; h8:15am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:15am-4pm Sat;
frappuccinos and sandwiches. mInsurgentes)
Lavandera Automtica dison (Map pp114-15;
COYOACN dison 91; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mRevolucin) Near
Papelera Dabo (Map p123; %5659-5547; Allende 45, Plaza de la Repblica.
cnr Cuauhtmoc, Coyoacn; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-
7pm Sun; mViveros) Libraries & Cultural Centers
Biblioteca Benjamn Franklin (Map pp118-19;
ZONA ROSA %5080-2733; Liverpool 31; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri;
Plenty of cybercafs occupy the big Insur- mCuauhtmoc) Housed in the US Trade Center, the
gentes roundabout. library subscribes to a wide range of periodicals, from
C@lling Home (Map pp118-19; %5207-2586; Jalapa Foreign Affairs to Mad. Leave your ID at the gate.
51, Colonia Roma; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat,
11am-3pm Sun; mInsurgentes) (Continued on page 125)
A B C D E F

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Lonely Planet Publications


Calz Iztapalapa
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Map (p122) Coyoacn ala
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22

uz
del Pedregal SLEEPING
Camino Real Aeropuerto................14 E2
El Cenote Azul................................15 B5
Hostal Cactus.................................16 C3
6 Anillo P
erifrico
Calz
del H
6
24 ueso EATING
8
Mexico City

Fonda Margarita.............................17 B4
Villa Olmpica
Cuicuilco
Tl
alp
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cox
Parque Ecolgico
de Xochimilco
Kolobok.........................................18
Pozolera Tixtla...............................19
C2
C3

Cafetales
de pa o
Bosque de lz ric Taquera Villameln........................20 B4
Tlalpan Ca erif Lago
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Carr
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Golf Mxico ENTERTAINMENT

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Centro Cultural Universitario..........22 B6

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Isla de las Muecas El Balcn Huasteco.........................23 B2

ci
INFORMATION Estadio Azteca................................24 C6

n
See Xochimilco Map (p124)
Baslica de Guadalupe Tourism Estadio Azul....................................25 B4

Div
7 Module......................................(see 5) Estadio Olmpico.............................26 B5 7

isi
n
Hospital ABC....................................1 A3
INEGI...............................................2 B4
Italian Embassy.................................3 A3
MEX
95
MEX
95D
de
lN
Cana
l Apa
tlaco
To San Andrs
Foro Sol.........................................27
La Casa de Paquita la del Barrio......28
D3
C2
Monumental Plaza Mxico.............29 B4
ort
Mixquie
e

(14km) Saln Los ngeles..........................30 C2


SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Anahuacalli...................................... 4 C5 Ca SHOPPING
Xochimilco Santa nal
Baslica de Guadalupe.......................5 D1 Cruz Fonart............................................31 B4
Biblioteca Central..............................6 B5 Mercado de Jamaica...................... 32 D3

Carr e
Au

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Ciudad Universitaria.........................7 B5 to Bosque Mercado de Sonora....................... 33 D3

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pi

a
Cuicuilco..........................................8 B6 de Nativitas Mercado La Merced.......................34 D3
2 miles

sta
Fe
El Perfil del Tiempo...........................9 B5 de Tianguis Cultural del Chopo...........35 C2

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4 km

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Museo Universitario de Ciencias y TRANSPORT
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Arte............................................10 B5 Nativitas

a
Airport Terminal.............................36 E2
8 Plaza de las Tres Culturas...............11 C2
Sanctuario Nacional de la Santa Av
Mxico Aju sc
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Embarcadero Cuemanco................37
Terminal Norte...............................38
D7
C1
8
Muerte...................................... 12 D2 Terminal Oriente (TAPO)............... 39 D2
111

Santa Muerte Altar........................ 13 D2 To Cuernavaca To Cuernavaca Terminal Poniente..........................40 B3


(89km) (89km)
Lonely Planet Publications
Lneas 6,7 El Rosario Lnea 5 Politcnico Instituto
Politcnico
Nacional Parque Nacional
112

Parque El Tepeyac
Tezozmoc Lnea 3
Tezozmoc
Indios
Ferrera Vallejo Verdes
Azcapotzalco Instituto del
Petroleo
Norte 45
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Lonely Planet Publications


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Lonely Planet Publications


Lonely Planet Publications
Centro Histrico, Plaza de la Repblica & Jurez
114 CENTRO HISTRICO, PLAZA DE LA REPBLICA & JUREZ


A B C D To La Casa de
Tianguis
Buenavista Linea Cultural Paquita la del
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Lonely Planet Publications
Centro Histrico, Plaza de la Repblica & Jurez
0 500 m
0 0.3 miles 115

E F G H
Tlatelolco (500m); Gonzlez Bo
To Saln Los Terminal Norte (4.5km); canegra
Angeles (500m) Baslica de Guadalupe

Comonfort
(4.5km)
Degolla

Allende
do
1
To Santa Muerte
Altar (350m)
Garibaldi Libertad
Rayn (Eje 1
Norte) Mercado Tepito
172
Garibaldi
Lagunilla Hroe de Gran
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171
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118 Rep de Costa Ric

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143
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Rep de Br
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Rep de Arge
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La Palma

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Rep of Chi

161
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Bellas Artes
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74 San Ildef To National Sanctuary of
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117 105
Alameda 27 Plaza de
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Central 53 19 56 15 72 77 Justo Sier Loreto


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Allende 115 Templo


Hemiciclo 31
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138 Mayor
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106 85 100 99 Nacional
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130 141 ares
Mercado de San 140 Rep de 71
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119 Rep de U
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CENTRO
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135
Regina 120
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Salto del Agua Regina 116 121
Salto del Agua San Jernimo
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6
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Doctores
Lonely Planet Publications

116 CENTRO HISTORICO, PLAZA DE LA REPBLICA & JUREZ

INFORMATION Plaza Sex Capital.........................59 E4 Taquera Beatriz........................127 F4


American Bookstore......................1 F4 Sagrario Metropolitano.............. 60 G4 Vegetariano Madero................ 128 G4
Bancomer..................................... 2 D4 Secretara de Educacin Pblica.. 61 G3
Bancomer......................................3 F4 Templo Mayor........................... 62 G3 DRINKING
Bellas Artes Tourism Module.........4 E3 Torre Latinoamericana................63 E4 Bar Mancera.............................129 F4
C&X............................................. 5 D4 Universidad del Claustro de Sor Caf Cordobs..........................130 E4
Catedral Tourism Module............. 6 G3 Juana......................................64 F5 Caf del Passaje........................131 F4
Centro de Cambios y Divisas........ 7 B4 Virgen del Metro........................ 65 D3 Caf Jakemir.............................132 F5
Corazn de Mxico Tourist Office..8 F4 Caf La Habana....................... 133 C4
Elektra.......................................... 9 D4 SLEEPING El Nivel..................................... 134 G4
Elektra........................................ 10 G5 Casa de los Amigos.....................66 B3 Hostera La Bota (Casa Vecina)..135 F5
Esperanto................................... 11 D4 Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mxico.... 67 G4 La Gioconda..............................136 F3
Farmacia Paris............................ 12 G5 Holiday Inn Zcalo..................... 68 G4 La Hermosa Hortensia...............137 F2
Gandhi........................................13 E3 Hostal Moneda.......................... 69 H4 La pera Bar.............................138 F3
INEGI......................................... 14 D4 Hostal Virreyes............................70 E5 La Risa......................................139 F5
Keep in Touch........................(see 131) Hostel Amigo..............................71 F4 La Selva Caf..........................(see 150)
La Torre de Papel........................15 F3 Hostel Catedral........................... 72 G3 Las Duelistas.............................140 E4
Lavandera Automtica dison....16 B3 Hotel Astor................................. 73 A3 Los Portales de Tlaquepaque.....141 F4
Librera Madero..........................17 F4 Hotel Azores............................... 74 G3 Saln Corona............................142 F4
Mdicor....................................(see 11) Hotel Capitol...............................75 E4
Mexcambios...............................18 F4 Hotel Casa Blanca....................... 76 C3 ENTERTAINMENT
Mundo Joven...........................(see 72) Hotel Catedral............................ 77 G3 Arena Coliseo........................... 143 G2
Palacio Postal..............................19 F3 Hotel Compostela....................... 78 A4 Arena de Mxico...................... 144 C6
Post Office................................. 20 C3 Hotel de Corts.......................... 79 D3 Bar Oasis...................................145 F3
Post Office................................. 21 G4 Hotel Fleming............................. 80 D4 Butterflies..................................146 E5
Templo Mayor Tourism Module.. 22 G4 Hotel Gillow................................81 F4 Cinematgrafo del Chopo.........147 B2
Tranvia Tour Stop.......................23 E3 Hotel Imperial............................. 82 C4 Cinemex Palacio....................... 148 D3
Turibs Stop...............................24 E3 Hotel Isabel.................................83 F4 Cinemex Real........................... 149 D3
Turismo Zcalo.......................... 25 G4 Hotel Jena.................................. 84 C3 Dada X......................................150 F4
Unidad Ministerial Especializada para Hotel Jurez................................85 F3 El Colmillo................................(see 93)
Atencin al Turista................. 26 C4 Hotel Majestic............................ 86 G4 El Tenampa...............................151 F2
Hotel Mallorca............................ 87 A3 El Viena.....................................152 F3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Marlowe............................88 E4 La Perla.....................................153 F3
Antiguo Colegio de San Hotel Mayaland..........................89 B3 La Terraza................................(see 31)
Ildefonso................................ 27 H3 Hotel Monte Real....................... 90 D4 Mixup (Ticketmaster)................154 E4
Biblioteca Nacional Jos Hotel New York.......................... 91 C3 Mixup (Ticketmaster)................155 F4
Vasconcelos........................... 28 D5 Hotel Oxford.............................. 92 C3 Museo Universitario
Casa de Azulejos.........................29 F3 Hotel Prim..................................93 B4 del Chopo...............................156 B2
Catedral Metropolitana.............. 30 G3 Hotel Rioja..................................94 F4 Pasagero.................................157 F4
Centro Cultural de Espaa.......... 31 G3 Hotel Sevilla............................... 95 A4 Pervert Lounge......................... 158 G4
Centro de la Imgen.................. 32 D5 Hotel Sevilla Palace.....................96 B4 Primer Cuadro...........................159 F3
Distrito Federal Government Hotel Sheraton Centro Histrico.. 97 D3 Salon Cinematogrfico Fsforo..(see 27)
Offices................................... 33 G4 Hotel Toledo...............................98 E4 Teatro Blanquita.......................160 E3
El Caballito................................. 34 D3 Hotel Washington...................... 99 G3 Teatro de la Ciudad..................161 F3
Entrance to Templo Mayor......... 35 G3 Hotel Zamora........................... 100 G3 Teatro Metropolitan................. 162 D4
Foreign Relations Secretariat Mexico City Hostel................... 101 G3 Zinco Jazz Club.........................163 F4
(SRE).......................................36 E4 Palace Hotel..............................102 B3
Iglesia de San Francisco...............37 F4 Tulip Inn Ritz............................103 F4 SHOPPING
Iglesia de Santo Domingo........... 38 G2 Centro de Artesanas La
Laboratorio de Arte Alameda...... 39 D3 EATING Ciudadela............................. 164 D4
Mercado Abelardo Rodrguez..... 40 H3 Boca del Ro..............................104 B2 Dulcera de Celaya....................165 F4
Monumento a Cristbal Coln....41 B4 Caf de Tacuba.........................105 F3 El Palacio de Hierro.................. 166 G4
Monumento a Cuauhtmoc....... 42 A4 Caf El Popular.......................(see 100) Fonart...................................... 167 D3
Monumento a la Revolucin.......43 B3 Caf La Blanca..........................106 F3 Hoja Real..................................(see 75)
Museo de la Ciudad de Mxico.. 44 G5 Caf Trevi................................ 107 D3 La Europea................................168 E4
Museo de la Indumentara Casino Espaol..........................108 F4 Liverpool.................................. 169 G4
Mexicana.............................(see 64) Churrera El Moro.....................109 E4 Mercado de Artesanas San
Museo de la Secretara de Hacienda y Cloister Caf.............................(see 46) Juan......................................170 E4
Crdito Pblico...................... 45 H4 El Califa de Len....................... 110 A2 Mercado La Lagunilla
Museo Franz Mayer....................46 E3 El Cuadriltero.......................... 111 D4 Building 1..............................171 F1
Museo Jos Luis Cuevas............. 47 H4 El Regiomontano...................... 112 D5 Mercado La Lagunilla
Museo Mural Diego Rivera......... 48 D3 Hong King................................113 E4 Building 2..............................172 G1
Museo Nacional de Hostera de Santo Domingo...... 114 G3 Mercado La Lagunilla
Arquitectura.........................(see 53) La Casa de las Sirenas............... 115 G3 Building 3..............................173 F2
Museo Nacional de Arte..............49 F3 La Fonda del Hotentote............ 116 H5 Palacio de las Mscaras.............174 F2
Museo Nacional de la Los Girasoles.............................117 F3 Plaza de la Computacin y
Revolucin.............................. 50 C3 Mercado San Camilito...............118 F2 Electrnica............................175 E4
Museo Nacional de las Culturas.. 51 H4 Mi Fonda..................................119 E5
Museo Nacional de San Carlos... 52 C3 Restaurant Dzib........................ 120 G5 TRANSPORT
Palacio de Bellas Artes.................53 E3 Restaurante Chon.................... 121 H5 Aeromxico.............................. 176 B4
Palacio de Iturbide......................54 F4 Restaurante Vegetariano...........122 F3 Magnicharters.......................... 177 C4
Palacio de la Inquisicin.............. 55 G3 Sanborns...................................123 B3 Mexicana................................. 178 D3
Palacio de Minera.......................56 F3 Sanborns.................................. 124 D3 Ticketbus Buenavista................ 179 C2
Palacio Nacional......................... 57 G4 Tacos de Canasta Chucho.........125 F3 Ticketbus Centro.......................180 F5
Plaza Jurez................................58 E4 Tacos Xotepingo...................... 126 D5 Ticketbus Zcalo......................(see 25)
Lonely Planet Publications

ZONA ROSA, CONDESA & ROMA (pp11819) 117

INFORMATION EATING Mitote...................................... 106 C6


Acqualav......................................1 E4 Barracuda Diner.......................... 51 C6 Pata Negra............................... 107 B6
American Express......................... 2 C3 Beatricita.................................... 52 C4 Sanborns Caf.......................... 108 D3
Bancomer..................................... 3 D3 Bistrot Mosaico........................... 53 C7 Taberna Red Fly........................ 109 E6
Biblioteca Benjamn Franklin..........4 E3 Caf La Gloria............................ 54 A7 Tierra de Vinos......................... 110 C5
C@lling Home.............................. 5 D4 Caldos de Gallina Vale................55 F3 Yuppie's Sports Caf................ 111 D3
Cafenauta.....................................6 B7 Contramar.................................. 56 C5
Casa de Cambio Puebla..........(see 142) Don Asado..................................57 B7 ENTERTAINMENT
Casa de Francia............................ 7 D2 Don Keso....................................58 B6 AM........................................... 112 B6
Centro Cambiario Indice...............8 B3 El 91........................................... 59 C5 BGay BProud Caf Mxico........ 113 C3
Conecte Caf............................... 9 D3 El Califa......................................60 B8 Cafebrera El Pndulo............... 114 D3
Dalinde Centro Mdico.............. 10 C8 El Figonero................................. 61 A7 Cafebrera El Pndulo............... 115 B7
Del ngel Tourism Module......... 11 C3 El Tizoncito................................. 62 A7 Cine Diana................................116 B3
Farmacia de Ahorros.................. 12 D6 El Tizoncito................................. 63 A7 Contempo Cinema.................(see 135)
Hospital ngeles Clnica Londres..13 F4 El Zorzal..................................... 64 A8 Continental DJ Club................. 117 C3
Instituto Francs de Amrica Fonda el Refugio........................ 65 D4 El Batacln................................ 118 C6
Latina......................................14 C1 Fonda Garufa............................. 66 A7 El Gran Len............................ 119 D6
Instituto Goethe......................... 15 D5 Frutos Prohibidos........................ 67 C7 Foro Shakespeare..................... 120 A5
Japanese Embassy.......................16 B3 Green Corner............................. 68 A6 Hexen-Caf..............................121 E5
La Bouquinerie...........................(see 7) Hamburgesas..............................69 F4 Lipstick..................................... 122 C3
Lavajet........................................ 17 C2 Ixchel......................................... 70 C5 Living........................................123 B3
Librera Alemana.........................18 E4 King Felafel................................ 71 C4 Lumiere Reforma...................... 124 C3
Librera Pegaso.........................(see 28) Konditori.................................... 72 D3 Mam Rumba.......................... 125 D6
Librera Sama.............................. 19 C4 La Sbia Virtud........................... 73 A7 Mixup (Ticketmaster)............... 126 D3
Mac Coffee................................ 20 D3 Les Moustaches.......................... 74 D2 Multiforo Alicia.........................127 F4
Post Office................................. 21 C2 Los Bisquets Obregn.................75 F5 Papa Beto.................................128 C1
Post Office................................. 22 C4 Mara del Alma........................... 76 A6
Telecomm.................................. 23 C3 Mercado Medelln...................... 77 D7 SHOPPING
UK Embassy & Consulate........... 24 D2 Nevera Roxy.............................. 78 A6 Bazar de la Roma......................129 F4
US Embassy................................ 25 C3 Nevera Roxy.............................. 79 A7 Bazar del Oro........................... 130 D5
Non Solo Panino.........................80 E5 Dulcera de Celaya....................131 E5
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Parrillada Bariloche..................... 81 D5 Fonart.......................................132 F2
Alliant International University....26 E5 Pickup Truck............................... 82 A7 Jardn del Arte.......................... 133 D1
Centro Burstil (Bolsa)................ 27 D2 Restaurante Shalala.................... 83 A7 Mercado Insurgentes............... 134 D4
Centro de Cultura Casa Lamm....28 E5 Restaurante Vegetariano Yug.....84 C3 Plaza del ngel Shopping
Galera Nina Menocal.................29 E6 Tamales..................................... 85 D5 Arcade................................. 135 D3
La Diana Cazadora......................30 B3 Taquera El Jarocho.................... 86 D7 Plaza La Rosa Shopping Arcade.. 136 D3
Monumento a la Independencia (El Taquera Hola.............................87 B7
ngel).................................... 31 C3 Tianguis de Pachuca................... 88 A5 TRANSPORT
MUCA Roma..............................32 F5 U Rae Ok................................... 89 C4 Aero California......................... 137 C3
OMR..........................................33 E4 Aeromar...................................(see 49)
Torre Mayor............................... 34 A4 DRINKING Aeromxico...............................138 F1
Bar Miln....................................90 F2 Alitalia...................................... 139 C2
SLEEPING Black Horse................................ 91 A7 American Airlines..................... 140 D3
Casa de la Condesa.....................35 E5 Caf Bola de Oro........................92 B8 Avianca.....................................141 E2
Casa Gonzlez............................ 36 C2 Caf de Carlo..............................93 E5 Avis.......................................... 142 D3
Condesa df................................. 37 B6 Caf La Selva............................. 94 A7 Chapultepec Bus Terminal........ 143 A4
Four Seasons Hotel..................... 38 A4 Cafeina.......................................95 B6 Copa Airlines............................ 144 C3
Hostal San Sebastin................... 39 C3 Cafetera Gabi's..........................96 E3 Delta Airlines............................ 145 C3
Hostel Home.............................. 40 C5 Caff Toscano............................ 97 C7 Japan Air Lines.........................(see 34)
Hotel Bristol................................ 41 C2 Cantina Covadonga..................(see 42) Lneas Areas Azteca................ 146 D3
Hotel Embassy............................42 E4 Celtics.........................................98 B6 Mexicana................................. 147 C3
Hotel Mara Cristina................... 43 D2 El Centenario.............................. 99 A7 Taller de Bicicletas Orozco........ 148 C6
Hotel Miln.................................44 E5 Enanos de Tapanco...................100 E6 Thrifty Car Rental..................... 149 C3
Hotel Parque Ensenada...............45 F5 Hookah Lounge........................101 B8 Ticketbus Condesa................... 150 C8
Hotel Puebla...............................46 F4 La Bodeguita del Medio............102 B4 Ticketbus Reforma.................... 151 B3
Hotel Roosevelt.......................... 47 D6 La Hija de los Apaches..............103 F4 Ticketbus Roma Norte.............. 152 F4
La Casona...................................48 B5 La Mediterrnea........................104 E5 Ticketbus Roma Norte.............. 153 F5
Sheraton Mara Isabel Hotel....... 49 C3 Lamm.......................................(see 28) Turibs Stop.............................(see 11)
Villa H........................................ 50 D3 Malafama.................................105 B7 United Airlines.......................... 154 C3
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Lonely Planet Publications

Lonely Planet Publications

120 BOSQUE DE CHAPULTEPEC & POLANCO


A B C 48 D
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INFORMATION 50

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Antropologa Tourism Module......1 F4

Soln

Plinio

Caldern de la Barca
Ciclo

Sfocles
Av F
Australian Embassy...................... 2 G3

Scrates
Belize Embassy.............................3 C5 38
Parque

Edgar Allan Poe



re
Canadian Embassy & Library.........4 F3 Cicern Amrica

Goldsmith
Av Molie
Ibsen

France
Lafontaine
Cenca...........................................5 E3

Platn

Sneca
Cuban Embassy...........................6 C3

Musset
French Embassy...........................7 D3 46
Av Presidente Masary
German Embassy..........................8 E3 6 k
Guatemalan Embassy...................9 B5

Shaw
Ca 37
Instituto Nacional de Migracin..10 C2 ste

Wild
56 Pasaje



lar POLANCO Polanco
Irish Embassy.............................11 C3
11

e
Mundo Joven.............................12 E2 Bl Virgilio
as vd Dickens
New Zealand Embassy.............(see 52) a lm v
la sP ila
Sectur.........................................13 F3 Paseo de Ca Parque Lincoln
3 Spanish Embassy........................14 E2 m
ac Urbina
To Italian ho

Dumas
Embassy M
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES on 51 Monte El
te


(2.5km) b
sU Fuente de ruz

France
Crcamo del Ro Lerma............(see 17) ra 7

Verne
les Petroleos Ca 42
Casa de Los Espejos (Hall of mp
rte (Petroleum os
Mirrors)................................. 15 G4 d o No El
A v Pra Fountain)
seo
Casa Luis Barragn.....................16 E6 s
Castillo de Chapultepec...........(see 27) a
m
or

a
f Simn Bolvar
Fuente de Tlaloc (Murals)...........17 D6 Re

Ciclov
Obelisk
Fuente de Xochipilli.................... 18 D5 as


l
Galera Abierta de las Rejas de de
o
se
Chapultepec...........................19 F4 To Toluca Pa
La Feria.......................................20 E5 (64km)
Los Pinos Presidential Residence..21 E6
Monumento a los Nios Hroes.. 22 G4
4
al

Museo de Arte Moderno........... 23 G4 r


reg

Su Blv


Museo de Historia Natural......... 24 D6 o dL
Ped

d pe
Museo del Caracol......................25 F5 P ra zM
Museo Nacional de Av Alicam
a
ate
os
LOMAS DE s
Antropologa..........................26 F4 CHAPULTEPEC Se ixa
Ci
ry clo
Museo Nacional de Historia....... 27 G5 uia va
Ag
Av Explanada

Museo Rufino Tamayo.............. 28 G4


Museo Tecnolgico....................29 E6



Papalote Museo del Nio...........30 E6 3
Zoolgico de Chapultepec..........31 F4
s
ye
rre


SLEEPING 9 Vi
os
Camino Real Mxico.................. 32 G3 el


d
Habita Hotel...............................33 E3 Blv


Hotel Park Villa...........................34 F5 Lago



5 W Mexico City Hotel..................35 E3 Mayor

EATING
Caldos d'Leo..............................36 C2
Liverpool Polanco (Ticketmaster)..47 G3


Saln 21.....................................48 D1


es
Klein's........................................37 D3 Teatro de la Danza.....................49 E4 tor
p osi


La Hacienda de los Morales........38 B2 18 om
Villa Mara..................................39 E2 SHOPPING sC
lo


Plaza Moliere............................. 50 C2 de
o


DRINKING
se
Pa

TRANSPORT
rea.........................................(see 33) Bosque de


Air Canada................................. 51 C3
Moon Bar................................(see 32) Chapultepec
2a Seccin


Pink............................................40 E3
Air France................................(see 52)
British Airways............................52 B2
Segafredo...................................41 E3


Continental Airlines....................53 E3
Terra de Galicia.......................... 42 D3


17
Cubana......................................54 E2
6 ENTERTAINMENT Iberia..........................................55 F2


Auditorio Nacional.....................43 E4 KLM/Northwest.......................(see 53) Panten Civil
Cafebrera El Pndulo.................44 E3 Lufthansa...................................56 B3


de Dolores Lago
Centro Cultural del Bosque.........45 E4 Mexicana................................... 57 C2 Menor To Terminal


Bosque de Chapultepec
Cinemex Casa de Arte............... 3a SeccinPolanco.......................58 F3
46 D3 Ticketbus Poniente
24 (1.5km)



Lonely Planet Publications

0 1 km
0 0.5 miles 121

E F G H
Av Ro San
Joaqun

edo

Av
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M
ar
in
Cervecera Modelo 1

aN
Calz Gra
(Modelo Brewery)

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EATING
Capicua.........................................10 D2

Arteag
Chic
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Jardn Fonda San ngel............................11 C3
del Arte
Frontera tes S Saks...............................................12 C3
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San ngel Inn.................................13 B1

n
INFORMATION
nsu

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Gandhi.............................................1 F2 ENTERTAINMENT
Av I

Gandhi.............................................2 F2 Caf Corazn.................................14 C3

evo
500 m

La Bouquinerie.................................3 D1 Kubrik............................................15 D2
0.3 miles

Av R
San ngel Tourist Module................4 D2 Mama Rumb................................16 C3
Altamirano
4 a SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SHOPPING 4
len Iglesia de San Jacinto........................5 C3 Bazar Sbado.................................17 C3
da
19 R
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M
ag Monumento a lvaro Obregn........6
Museo Casa del Risco......................7
D2
C3
Casa del Obispo.............................18 C3
Plaza Loreto...................................19 C4
Av Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera
To Ciudad y Frida Kahlo................................8 B1 TRANSPORT
Magdalena Universitaria Av Copilc
o Templo y Museo de El Carmen........ 9 D2 Buses to UNAM.............................20 D3
de la (300m)
Ro
Lonely Planet Publications
16
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25 May catpetl

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INFORMATION Av Migu Tasquea
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Coyoacn Tourism Office..........1 C2 de Quev
edo 26
Papelera Dabo...........................2 C2 Pa
cf

Leal
ico

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES



Casa de Corts.........................(see 1)
Centro Cultural Jess Reyes
EATING
Chamorros Coyoacn.................9 B1
DRINKING
Caf El Jarocho.........................17 B1
Las Torres Av Tasque
a
Av D
iv

Heroles..................................3 A2 Churros Allende.....................(see 18) Caf El Jarocho........................18 C2


Calz
0.5 miles

Ex-Convento de Churubusco......4 E1 El Jardn del Pulpo....................10 C2 El Hijo del Cuervo.....................19 B2


isin

ua
Museo Frida Kahlo.....................5 C1 El Tizoncito..............................11 C2 La Guadalupana.......................20 C2 Pinos
de Tla

lAg
Museo Len Trotsky...................6 C1 Fonda El Morral.......................12 C2 SHOPPING
del N
1 km

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Museo Nacional de Culturas Los Danzantes..........................13 B2 ENTERTAINMENT Bazar Artesanal de Coyoacn...24 C2

rro

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4 4

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Populares...............................7 C2 Mercado de Antojitos..............14 C2 Bar El Vicio................................21 B1 Plaza Coyoacn........................25 B1
Museo Nacional de las Nieves de Coyoacn.................15 C2 Centro Nacional de las Artes.....22 F1
Ce
Intervenciones......................(see
rro del Otate 4) Supertacos Chupacabras...........16 B1 Cineteca Nacional.....................23 B1 TRANSPORT To Anahuacalli
123

Parroquia de San Juan Bautista...8 C2 Tostadas Coyoacn................(see 19) Teatro La Capilla....................(see 21) Terminal Sur.............................26 F3 (2km) To Estadio
Azteca (5km)
Ciudad Jardn
A B C D E F
Lonely Planet Publications
A B C D Can E F
Ahu To Parque al A
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20 d
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(1.8km) Xochimilco Tourism Module...............1 E3
124

Xochimilco Tourist Office................... 2 D2

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Av SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

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4 Av
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Lonely Planet Publications
Lonely Planet Publications

www.lonelyplanet.com M E X I C O C I T Y I n f o r m a t i o n 125

MEXICO CIT Y
(Continued from page 109) Dalinde Centro Mdico (Map pp118-19; %5265-
2805, emergency dial 9; Tuxpn 25, Colonia Roma Sur;
Canadian Embassy Library (Map pp1201; %5724- mChilpancingo) Less expensive and often with a doctor
7960; Schiller 529, Polanco; h9am-12:30pm Mon-Fri; on-call who speaks English.
mAuditorio) Hospital ABC (American British Cowdray Hospital; Map
Casa de Francia (Map pp118-19; %5511-3151; Havre pp110-11; %5230-8000, emergency %5230-8161; Sur
15, Zona Rosa; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mInsurgentes) 136 No 16, Colonia Las Amricas; mObservatorio) One of
The complex includes an art gallery, French bookstore the best (and most expensive) hospitals in Mexico. Theres
and restaurant, plus a mediateca for watching videos or an outpatient section and English-speaking staff.
browsing the Internet. Hospital ngeles Clnica Londres (Map pp118-19;
Centro Cultural de Espaa (Spanish Cultural Center; %5229-8400, emergency %5229-8445; Durango 64,
Map pp114-15; %5521-1925; www.ccemx.org; Colonia Roma; mCuauhtmoc)
Repblica de Guatemala 18; admission free; h10am-
8pm Tue & Wed, 10am-11pm Thu-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; The pharmacies that are found inside
mZcalo) Dedicated to promoting Spanish culture in Sanborns stores are among the most reliable,
Mexico. See p130 for more details. as are the following.
Instituto Francs de Amrica Latina (IFAL; Map Farmacia de Ahorros (Map pp118-19; %5264-3128;
pp118-19; %5566-0777; www.francia.org.mx/ifal; Ro Yucatn 40; h24hr; mInsurgentes) Take metrobus
Nazas 43, Colonia Cuauhtmoc) Films, concerts and other lvaro Obregn.
events take place here. Farmacia Pars (Map pp114-15; %5709-5349;
Instituto Goethe (Map pp118-19; %5207-0487; Repblica de El Salvador 97, Centro; h8am-11pm Mon-
www.goethe.de/hn/mex in German; Tonal 43, Colonia Sat, 10am-9pm Sun; mIsabel La Catlica)
Roma; h9am-1:30pm & 4-7:30pm Tue-Thu, 10am- Mdicor (Map pp114-15; %5512-0431; Independencia
1:45pm Sat; mInsurgentes) Subscribes to Die Zeit and 66; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6:30pm Sat; mJurez)
other German periodicals. Specializing in homeopathic medicines.

Media Money
Tiempo Libre, the citys Spanish-language Most banks and casas de cambio (exchange
whats-on weekly, comes out on Thursday offices) will change both cash and travelers
and is sold at newsstands everywhere. checks but some will change only Euros and
Recommended Spanish-language daily US or Canadian dollars. Exchange rates vary,
newspapers include La Jornada, with so check one or two beforehand.
excellent cultural coverage, and Reforma, The greatest concentration of ATMs,
the latter available at convenience stores banks and casas de cambio is on Paseo
and some metro stations. de la Reforma between the Monumento
English-language newspapers and maga- a Cristbal Coln and the Monumento a
zines can be found at these locations: la Independencia, but there are others all
La Torre de Papel (Map pp114-15; %5512-9703; over town, including 24-hour branches at
Filomena Mata 6A; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-2:30pm the airport.
Sat; mAllende) Also stocks newspapers from around
Mexico. AMERICAN EXPRESS
Librera Sama (Map pp118-19; %5525-0647; Flor- American Express (Map pp118-19; %5207-7282; Paseo
encia 57; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun; de la Reforma 350; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat;
mInsurgentes) mInsurgentes)

Medical Services CASAS DE CAMBIO


For recommendation of a doctor, dentist or Casa de Cambio Puebla (Map pp118-19; %5207-
hospital, call your embassy or Sectur (%5212- 9485; Paseo de la Reforma 308A; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri,
0260), the tourism ministry. An extended 10am-2pm Sat; mInsurgentes)
list of Mexico City hospitals and English- Centro de Cambios y Divisas (Map pp114-15;
speaking physicians (with their credentials), %5705-5656; Paseo de la Reforma 87-F; h8:30am-
in PDF format, is on the website of the US em- 7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-2:30pm Sun;
bassy (www.usembassy-mexico.gov/medical_lists.html). A mHidalgo)
private doctors consultation generally costs Mexcambios (Map pp114-15; %5510-9690; Madero 13;
between $35 and $50. h9:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; mBellas Artes)
Lonely Planet Publications

126 M E X I C O C I T Y I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
MEXICO CIT Y

WIRE TRANSFERS Some Internet cafs let you make reduced-


Western Unions Dinero en Minutos wiring rate international calls via an Internet server
service is available at several locations, line. Typical rates are $0.20 per minute to the
including Banamex branches. US or Europe.
Elektra (h9am-9pm) Alameda Central (Map pp114-15; Some stationery stores, copy shops and
%5510-2185; Balderas 62; mJurez); Zcalo (Map Internet cafs offer fax service; look for fax
pp114-15; %5522-5567; Repblica de El Salvador 225 at pblico signs. Sending one page to the US
Pino Surez; mPino Surez) or Canada costs about $1; receiving a fax
Telecomm (Map pp118-19; %5511-7495; Guadalquivir costs $0.50.
109, Colonia Cuauhtmoc; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
4pm Sat, 9am-noon Sun; mSevilla) Toilets
Use of the bathroom is free at Sanborns
The US Postal Services Dinero Seguro ser- stores. Public toilets are also found inside
vice (in the US %888-368-4669; www.usps.com) sends most market buildings and at some other
cash within 15 minutes to any branch of locations in the Centro Histrico area; look
Bancomer Alameda Central (Map pp114-15; %5512- for the WC signs. Standards of hygiene
9511; Balderas 92; mJurez); Zona Rosa (Map pp118- may vary at these latter facilities, and a fee
19; % 5208-4243; Liverpool 109; m Insurgentes); of two or three pesos is usually charged.
Centro Histrico (Map pp114-15; %5226-8495; Bolvar 38; Toilet paper is dispensed by an attendant on
mAllende). request, or may be taken from a common
roll outside the stalls.
Post
The Palacio Postal (Map pp114-15; %5521-1408; Tourist Information
Tacuba 1; mBellas Artes), across from the Palacio The Mexico City Ministry of Tourism
de Bellas Artes, is not just Mexico Citys has modules in key areas, as well as at the
central post office, but an architectural airport and four bus stations. They can
masterpiece. The early-20th-century building answer your queries on Mexico City and
was designed in Italian renaissance style by distribute a decent map and practical guide,
Adamo Boari, the original author of Bellas free of charge. At least one staff member
Artes. Note in particular the marble stairway should speak English.
with bronze banisters. The following offices are all open
The stamp windows, marked estampil- from 9am to 6pm daily, unless otherwise
las, stay open beyond normal post office noted.
hours (until 7:30pm Monday to Friday, and Antropologa (Map pp1201; %5286-3850; Paseo
on Sunday). The lista de correos window de la Reforma; mAuditorio) At the entry to the Museo
(similar to poste restante) is on the right Nacional de Antropologa.
side. Baslica de Guadalupe (Map pp110-11; %5748-
Other post-office branches, scattered 2085; Plaza de las Amricas 1; mLa Villa-Basilica)
around town, open 9am to 3pm Monday to Bellas Artes (Map pp114-15; %5518-2799; cnr Jurez
Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday, unless noted & Peralta; mBellas Artes)
otherwise. Catedral (Map pp114-15; %5518-1003; Monte de
Cuauhtmoc (Map pp118-19; %5207-7666; Ro Tiber Piedad; mZcalo) West of the Catedral Metropolitana.
87; mInsurgentes) Del ngel (Map pp118-19; %5208-1030; Paseo de la
Plaza de la Repblica (Map pp114-15; %5592-1783; Reforma & Florencia; mInsurgentes) On the Zona Rosa
Arriaga 11; mRevolucin) side of Monumento a la Independencia.
Zcalo (Map pp114-15; %5512-3661; Plaza de la San ngel (Map p122; Revolucin at Madero;
Constitucin 7; mZcalo) On the west side of the Zcalo. h10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mMiguel Angel de Quevado)
Zona Rosa (Map pp118-19; %5514-3029; Londres 208; In front of Centro Cultural.
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm; mSevilla) Templo Mayor (Map pp114-15; %5512-8977;
Seminario; mZcalo) On the east side of Catedral
Telephone & Fax Metropolitana.
There are thousands of Telmex card phones Xochimilco (Map p124; %5653-5209; Mercado) At
scattered around town. Pick up cards at the Nativitas boat landing. There are additional tourism
shops or newsstands bearing the blue-and- modules at other landings, open Saturday and Sunday
yellow Ladatel sign. only.
Lonely Planet Publications

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MEXICO CIT Y
Additionally, these city delegaciones (urban Robberies happen most often in areas
governmental subdivisions) operate infor- frequented by foreigners, including the
mation offices: Bosque de Chapultepec, around the Museo
Coyoacn (Map p123; %5658-0221; Jardn Hidalgo 1; Nacional de Antropologa and the Zona
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun; mViveros) Rosa. Be on your guard at the airport and
Inside the Casa de Corts. bus stations, and remember to keep your bag
Xochimilco (Map p124; %5676-0810; Pino 36; between your feet when checking in. Avoid
h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat & Sun) Just off the pedestrian underpasses that are empty or
Jardn Jurez. nearly so. Crowded metro cars and buses are
favorite haunts of pickpockets. Stay alert and
The office of Corazn de Mxico (Map pp114-15; keep your hand on your wallet and youll
% 5518-1869; www.elcorazondemexico.com.mx; Gante be fine.
15; h10am-6pm; mSan Juan de Letrn) provides Unless absolutely necessary, avoid
information on these Mexican states: carrying ATM cards, credit cards or large
Hidalgo, Morelos, Michoacn, Guerrero amounts of cash. Most importantly, if you
and Estado de Mxico. become a robbery victim, dont resist. Give
The national tourism ministry, Sectur the perpetrator your valuables rather than
(Map pp120-1; %3002-6300; Presidente Masaryk 172; risking injury or death.
h 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; m Polanco), A far more immediate danger than
hands out stacks of brochures on the entire muggings is traffic, which statistically takes
country, though youre better off at the more lives in the capital than street crime.
above modules for up-to-date information Obvious as it sounds, always look both
about the capital. ways when crossing streets. Some one-way
streets have bus lanes running counter to
Travel Agencies the traffic flow, and traffic on some divided
A number of midrange and top-end hotels streets runs in just one direction. Never
have an agencia de viajes on-site or can assume that a green light means its safe to
recommend one nearby. cross, as cars may turn left into your path.
Mundo Joven (www.mundojoven.com in Spanish; It is useful to take the safety in numbers
h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) airport (Map approach, crossing with other pedestrians.
pp110-11; %2599-0155; Sala E2, international arrivals; Ambulantes (mobile street vendors) clog
h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 10am-7pm Sun); many downtown streets, impeding movement
Polanco (Map pp1201; %5250-7191; Eugenio Sue along the sidewalk and forcing you to walk
342, cnr Homero; mPolanco); Zcalo (Map pp114-15; in the street. Attempting to move through
%5518-1755; Repblica de Guatemala 4; mZcalo) the throngs makes you more susceptible to
Specializes in cheap travel for students and teachers, with pickpockets.
reasonable airfares from Mexico City. Issues ISIC, ITIC and
IYTC and HI cards. Taxi Crime
Turismo Zcalo (Map pp114-15; %5518-3606; www Although not as prevalent a danger as in the
.agenciazocalo.com; Venustiano Carranza 67, Local 3, Cen- 1990s, taxi assaults still do occur and visitors
tro; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mZcalo) are strongly advised to take precautions.
Also functions as a Ticketbus outlet. Many victims have hailed a cab on the street
and been robbed by armed accomplices of
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES the driver. In particular, taxis parked in
Mexico City is often portrayed as an front of nightclubs or restaurants should
extremely crime-ridden city, so first-time be avoided, unless specifically authorized
visitors can be astonished to find how safe by the management. Rather than taking the
and human it feels. While the incidence of risk of hailing cruising cabs, phone a radio
street crime remains too significant to deny sitio (taxi service). See p186 for a list of
the risks four express kidnappings, 84 recommended companies.
car thefts and 55 muggings a day in 2004
there is no need to walk in fear whenever SIGHTS
you step outside. A few precautions greatly One could spend months exploring all the
reduce any dangers. See p972 for some museums, monuments, plazas, colonial
general hints. buildings, monasteries, murals, galleries,
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archaeological finds, statuary, shrines and and on the south the offices of the Dis-
religious relics this encyclopedia of a city trito Federal government. The plaza is also
has to offer. a place for political protesters to make their
point, and its often occupied by makeshift
Centro Histrico camps of strikers. Lately its also been a
A good place to start your exploration of venue for free concerts and other popular
Mexico City is where it all began. Declared entertainment.
a Unesco World Heritage site in 1987,
the 34-block area defined as the Historic PALACIO NACIONAL
Center presents an array of sites from the Home to the offices of the president of
Aztec, colonial and prerevolutionary eras, Mexico, the Federal Treasury and dramatic
and the legacy of the incomparable wealth murals by Diego Rivera, the National Palace
and importance the city has enjoyed, and (Map pp114-15; %9158-1259; Plaza de la Constitucin;
is home to numerous absorbing museums. admission free, ID required; h10am-5pm; mZcalo)
It also bustles with modern-day street life. fills the entire east side of the Zcalo.
The focus of this historic core, and indeed The first palace on this spot was built by
of all Mexico, is the Zcalo, the vast main Aztec emperor Moctezuma II in the early
plaza. 16th century. Corts destroyed the palace in
Under the administration of Mayor 1521, rebuilding it as a fortress with three
Andrs Manuel Lpez Obrador, invest- interior courtyards. In 1562 the crown
ments were poured into upgrading the bought the palace from Corts family to
image and infrastructure of the Centro. house the viceroys of Nueva Espaa. De-
Streets were repaved, buildings refurbished, stroyed during riots in 1692, it was rebuilt
lighting and traffic flow improved and se- and remained the vice-regal residence until
curity bolstered. Mexican independence.
As you face the palace you will see three
ZCALO portals. On the right (south) is the guarded
The heart of Mexico City is the Plaza de entrance for the president and other
la Constitucin, though city residents officials. High above the center door hangs
began calling it the Zcalo (Map pp114 the Campana de Dolores, the bell rung in the
15), meaning base, in the 19th century town of Dolores Hidalgo by Padre Miguel
when plans for a major monument to Hidalgo in 1810 at the start of the Mexican
independence went unrealized, leaving only War of Independence. From the balcony
the pedestal. underneath it, the president delivers the
The ceremonial center of Aztec Tenoch grito (shout) Viva Mxico! on September
titln, known as the Teocalli, lay imme- 15 to commemorate independence.
diately northeast of the Zcalo. Today Enter the palace through the center
conchero dancers in feathered headdresses door. The Diego Rivera murals along the main
and concha (shell) anklets and bracelets staircase, painted between 1929 and 1935,
remind everyone of this heritage with daily depict Mexican civilization from the arrival
gatherings in the Zcalo for a sort of pre- of Quetzalcatl (the Aztec plumed serpent
Hispanic aerobics, carried out to the rhythm god) up to the post-revolutionary period.
of booming drums. The nine murals covering the north and
In the 1520s Corts paved the plaza with east walls of the first level above the patio
stones from the ruined Teocalli and other deal with indigenous life before the Spanish
Aztec buildings. Until the early 20th cen- Conquest; Riveras vision of Tenochtitln is
tury, the Zcalo was more a maze of market incredibly detailed.
stalls than an open plaza. Measuring more Beyond the main patio is a botanical
than 220m from north to south, 240m from garden containing plants from around
east to west, its one of the worlds largest Mexico.
city squares.
The Zcalo is home to the powers-that- CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA
be in Mexico City. On its east side is the Construction of the Metropolitan Cathedral
Palacio Nacional (the presidential palace), (Map pp114-15; %5510-0440, ext 123; admission free;
on the north the Catedral Metropolitana, h8am-7pm; mZcalo) began in 1573 under
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the direction of the architect Claudio Also worthy of admiration are the
de Arciniega and remained a work in intricately carved late-17th-century wooden
progress during the entire colonial period. choir stalls by Juan de Rojas in the central
Because of its placement atop the ruins nave, and the sacristy, the first component
of the Aztec temple complex, the massive of the cathedral to be built, with a pair of
building has been sinking unevenly since enormous painted panels. La Asuncin de
its construction, resulting in fissures and la Virgen, by Correa, depicts the ascension
cracks in the structure. of Mary, while La Mujer del Apocalpsis,
Visitors may wander freely, though they by Cristbal de Villalpando, portrays the
are asked not to do so during Mass. A $1 apocalyptic vision of St John the Apostle.
donation is requested to enter the sacristy or Adjoining the east side of the cathedral is
choir, where docents provide commentary. the 18th-century Sagrario Metropolitano (Map
You can climb the bell tower (admission $1.25; pp114-15; h7:30am-7:30pm). Originally built to
h10:30am-6pm). Sunday evenings at 7pm, house the archives and vestments of the
Mass is accompanied by mariachis. archbishop, it is now the citys main parish
With a five-nave basilica design of vaults church. Its front entrance and mirror-image
on semicircular arches, the cathedral was eastern portal are superb examples of the
built to resemble that of Seville. The ultra-decorative Churrigueresque style.
baroque portals facing the Zcalo, built in
the 17th century, have two levels of col- TEMPLO MAYOR
umns and marble panels with bas-reliefs. The Teocalli of Tenochtitln, demolished by
The central panel shows the Assumption the Spaniards in the 1520s, stood on the site
of the Virgin Mary, to whom the cathedral of the cathedral and the blocks to its north
is dedicated. and east. It wasnt until 1978, after electricity
The upper levels of the towers, with workers happened on an eight-ton stone-disc
unique bell-shaped tops, were added in carving of the Aztec goddess Coyolxauhqui,
the late 18th century. The exterior was that the decision was taken to demolish co-
completed in 1813, when architect Manuel lonial buildings and excavate the Templo Mayor
Tols added the clock tower topped by (Map pp114-15; %5542-4943; Seminario 8; admission
statues of Faith, Hope and Charity and a $3.50; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mZcalo). The temple
great central dome. is thought to be on the exact spot where the
The first thing you notice upon entering Aztecs saw their symbolic eagle, perching on
from the Zcalo is the elaborately carved a cactus with a snake in its beak the symbol
and gilded Altar de Perdn (Altar of Par- of Mexico today. In Aztec belief this was,
don). Invariably there is a line of worship- literally, the center of the universe.
pers at the foot of the Seor del Veneno The entrance to the temple site and
(Lord of the Poison), the dusky Christ museum is east of the cathedral, across the
figure on the right. Legend has it that the hectic Plaza Templo Mayor, with a model
figure attained its color when it miracu- of Tenochtitln. Authorized tour guides
lously absorbed a dose of poison through (with Sectur ID) offer their services by the
its feet from the lips of a clergyman, to entrance. Alternatively, rent a recorded
whom an enemy had administered the le- audio-guide inside the museum, available
thal substance. in English ($5.50).
The cathedrals chief artistic treasure is the Like other sacred buildings in Tenoch-
gilded 18th-century Altar de los Reyes (Altar titln, the temple, begun in 1325, was en-
of the Kings), behind the main altar. Its a larged several times, with each rebuilding
masterly exercise in controlled elaboration accompanied by the sacrifice of captured
and a high point of Churrigueresque style. warriors. In 1487 these rituals were per-
The two side naves are lined with 14 richly formed at a frenzied pace to rededicate the
decorated chapels. At the southwest corner, temple after one major reconstruction. By
the Capilla de los Santos ngeles y Arcngeles some estimates, as many as 20,000 sacrifi-
(Chapel of the Holy Angels and Archangels) cial victims went under the blade in one
is another example of baroque sculpture and ghastly four-day ceremony.
painting, with altarpieces embellished by What we see today are sections of the
the 18th-century painter Juan Correa. temples different phases. (Little is left
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of the seventh and last version seen by convent housing the Museo Jos Luis Cuevas
the Spanish conquistadors, built around (Map pp114-15; %5522-0156; Academia 13; admission
1500.) At the center is a platform dating $1, Sun free; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun; mZcalo). A
from about 1400; on its southern half, a haven for Mexicos fringe art scene, the
sacrificial stone stands in front of a shrine museum showcases the works of Cuevas,
to Huizilopochtli, the Aztec war god. On a leading modern Mexican artist, and
the northern half is a chac-mool (a Maya his contemporaries. Cuevas La Giganta,
reclining figure that served as a messenger a 9m-high bronze figure with male and
to the gods) before a shrine to the water female features, dominates the central
god, Tlloc. By the time the Spanish ar- patio, while the Sala de Arte Ertico is
rived, a 40m-high double pyramid towered an intriguing gallery of the artists sexual
above this spot, with steep twin stairways themes.
climbing to shrines of the two gods.
As you approach the museum, notice CENTRO CULTURAL DE ESPAA
the large-scale quotes chiseled on its west The Spanish Cultural Center (Map pp114-15;
walls. These are awe-struck descriptions of %5521-1925; www.ccemx.org; Repblica de Guatemala
Tenochtitln from three of its earliest Euro- 18; admission free; h 10am-8pm Tue & Wed, 10am-
pean visitors Hernn Corts, Bernl Daz 11pm Thu-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; mZcalo), dedicated
del Castillo and Motolina. to promoting Spanish culture in Mexico,
The Museo del Templo Mayor houses artifacts is one of the more happening spaces in
from the site and gives a good overview the Centro, with various cutting-edge
of Aztec civilization, including chinampa exhibitions going on at once, plus frequent
agriculture, systems of government and concerts by Spanish bands. The splendidly
trade, and beliefs, wars and sacrifices. restored building, which conquistador
Pride of place is given to the great wheel- Hernn Corts once awarded to his butler,
like stone of Coyolxauhqui (She of Bells has a rooftop terrace for tapas-munching
on her Cheek), best viewed from the and, on weekends, late-night DJ sessions.
top floor vantage point. She is shown
decapitated the result of her murder by MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD DE MXICO
Huizilopochtli, her brother, who also killed For a good overview of the megalopolis,
his 400 brothers en route to becoming top visit the Museum of Mexico City (Map pp114-15;
god. Other outstanding exhibits include %5542-0083; Pino Surez 30; admission $2, Wed free;
full-size terracotta eagle warriors. h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; m Pino Surez). The in-
novative permanent exhibit, It All Fits in
CALLE MONEDA a Basin, conveys a sense of the capitals
Just to the north of the Palacio Nacional, epic sweep while providing all kinds of
Moneda is a pedestrian thoroughfare lined fascinating details along the way. Theres a
with tezontle buildings and often clogged concise history of the city with models and
with ambulantes. The Museo de la Secre- maps, a photo gallery of nocturnal life and
tara de Hacienda y Crdito Pblico (Museum of a sort of hall of fame of DF entertainers.
the Finance Secretariat; Map pp114-15; % 9158-1245; One room is devoted exclusively to the
Moneda 4; admission $0.80, free Sun; h10am-5:30pm Zcalo and its role as a stage for social
Tue-Sun;mZcalo) shows off its vast collection movements. The 18th-century Palace of
of Mexican art, with an emphasis on 20th- the Counts of Santiago de Calimaya that
century painters. The former colonial houses the museum is a piece of history it-
archbishops palace also hosts a full program self: check out the serpents head embedded
of cultural events (many free), from puppet into the outside corner at Calle Repblica
shows to chamber music recitals. de El Salvador, probably a leftover from the
Constructed in 1567 as the colonial mint, wall that once surrounded Tenochtitlns
the Museo Nacional de las Culturas (National Mu- sacred precinct.
seum of Cultures; Map pp114-15; %5542-0165; Moneda
13; admission free; h 9:30am-6pm Tue-Sun; m Z- PLAZA SANTO DOMINGO
calo) exhibits art, dress and handicrafts Two blocks north of the Zcalo is this
of the worlds cultures. A block further smaller, less formal plaza. Printers, with
east, then a few steps north, is a former ancient machines, work beneath the Portal
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MEXICO CIT Y
de Evangelistas, along its west side. They are A block back toward the Zcalo, then east,
the descendants of the scribes who once did is the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso (Map pp114-
paperwork for the merchants who came to 15; %5789-6845; www.sanildefonso.org.mx in Spanish;
register their wares at the customs building Justo Sierra 16; admission $3.25, free Tue; h10am-5:30pm
(now the Education Ministry) across the Tue-Sun; mZcalo). Built in the 16th century as
square. The maroon stone Iglesia de Santo Do- a Jesuit college, it later became a prestig-
mingo (Map pp11415), dating from 1736, ious teacher training institute. In the 1920s,
is a beautiful baroque church. The three- Rivera, Orozco, Siqueiros and others were
tiered facade deserves a close look: statues brought in to adorn it with murals. Most
of St Francis and St Augustine stand in the of the work on the main patio and stair-
niches alongside the doorway. The middle case is by Orozco, whose caustic interpre-
panel shows Saint Dominic de Guzmn tation of prerevolutionary Mexico suggests
receiving a staff and the Epistles from St a grotesque pageant of exploitation and
Peter and St Paul, respectively; the dove brutality. The amphitheater, off the lobby,
above them represents the Holy Spirit. At holds Riveras first mural, La Creacin,
the top is a bas-relief of the Assumption of commissioned by Vasconcelos upon Riv-
the Virgin Mary. eras return from Europe in 1923. Mural
Opposite the big church, the 18th- tours (in Spanish) are given at 1pm and
century Palacio de la Inquisicin was head- 4pm. Nowadays, the San Ildefonso hosts
quarters of the Holy Inquisition in Mexico outstanding temporary exhibitions, as well
until 1820. as the Filmoteca of the national university.

MURALS PLAZA TOLS


In the 1920s the post-revolution Minister Several blocks west of the Zcalo is this
of Education, Jos Vasconcelos, commis- handsome square, named after the illustri-
sioned talented young artists among ous late-18th-century sculptor and architect
them Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros who completed the Catedral Metropolitana.
and Jos Clemente Orozco to decorate Manuel Tols also created the bronze
numerous public buildings with dramatic, equestrian statue of the Spanish king Carlos
large-scale murals conveying a new sense IV (who reigned from 1788 to 1808) that is
of Mexicos past and future. One was the the plazas centerpiece. It originally stood
former convent that housed the newly in the Zcalo, then on Paseo de la Reforma,
established Secretara de Educacin Pblica before being moved here in 1979 (as a work
(Secretariat of Education; Map pp114-15; %5328-1097; of art, a chiseled plaque emphasizes).
Repblica de Brasil 31; admission free; h9am-5pm Mon- King Carlos rides in front of the Museo
Fri; mZcalo). The entrance is on the east side Nacional de Arte (National Art Museum; Map pp114-15;
of Plaza Santo Domingo. %5130-3400; www.munal.com.mx in Spanish; Tacuba 8;
The two front courtyards (on the admission $2.75, free Tue; h10:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sun;
opposite side of the building from the mBellas Artes). Built around 1900 in the style
entrance) are lined with 120 fresco panels of an Italian renaissance palace, it holds
painted by Diego Rivera in the 1920s. collections representing every school of
Together they form a tableau of the very Mexican art until the early 20th century. A
life of the people, in the artists words. Each highlight is the work of Jos Mara Velasco,
courtyard is thematically distinct: the one depicting the Valle de Mxico in the late 19th
nearest the Repblica de Argentina entrance century with Guadalupe and Chapultepec
deals with labor, industry and agriculture, far outside the city.
and the top floor holds portraits of Mex- Opposite the art museum is the Palacio
ican heroes. The second courtyard depicts de Minera (Palace of Mining; Map pp114-15; %5623-
traditions and festivals. On its top level is a 2981; Tacuba 5; admission $2.50; tours h11am & 1pm
series on capitalist decadence and proletar- Sat & Sun; m Bellas Artes), where mining en-
ian and agrarian revolution, underneath a gineers were trained in the 19th century.
continuous red banner emblazoned with a Today it houses a branch of the national
Mexican corrido (folk song). The likeness of universitys engineering department. A
Frida Kahlo appears in the first panel, as an neoclassical masterpiece, the palace was
arsenal worker. designed by Tols and built between 1797
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and 1813. Visits are by guided tour only. (House of Tiles; Map pp114-15; %5518-6676; Madero 4;
The palace contains a small museum (ad- h7am-1am; mBellas Artes). Dating from 1596,
mission $1; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun) on Tolss life it was built for the Condes (Counts) del
and work. Valle de Orizaba. Although the superb tile
work that has adorned the outside walls
AVENIDA MADERO since the 18th century is Spanish and
A landmark for disoriented visitors since Moorish in style, most of the tiles were
1952, the Torre Latinoamericana (Latin Ameri- actually produced in China and shipped
can Tower; Map pp114-15; % 5518-7423; Eje Central to Mexico on the Manila naos (Spanish
Lzaro Crdenas 2; adult/child $3.75/2.75; h9am-10pm; galleons used up to the early 19th century).
mBellas Artes) was Latin Americas tallest The building now houses a Sanborns
building when constructed. (Today its restaurant in a covered courtyard around
Mexico Citys fifth tallest.) Views from the a Moorish fountain. The staircase has a
44th-floor observation deck are spectacular, 1925 mural by Orozco.
smog permitting. Also worth checking out Continuing eastward youll encounter
is the 37th-floor museum (admission $1) with the baroque facade of the late-18th-century
exhibits on the history of the building, plus Palacio de Iturbide (Map pp114-15; %1226-0011;
vintage photos of the Centro. Madero 17; admission free; h 10am-7pm Wed-Mon;
A block east toward the Zcalo stands m Allende). Built for colonial nobility, in
one of the citys gems, the Casa de Azulejos 1821 it became the residence of General

HIDDEN MURALS
So broad was the muralist movements canvas that it sometimes seems not a wall has gone un-
covered. With murals showing up in markets, libraries, metro stations and restaurants, Chilangos
naturally grow indifferent to the presence of these grandiose artistic statements in their midst.
Sure, youve seen the tableaux at the Palacio Nacional and Bellas Artes, but some lesser-known
murals are just as worthy of viewing, and tracking them down is half the fun.
 El Agua, El Origen de la Vida (Water, Origin of Life; Map pp120-1; Crcamo del Ro Lerma, 2a
Seccin Bosque de Chapultepec; mConstituyentes) Diego Rivera painted these murals inside the
Chapultepec water works, built in the 1940s to channel the waters of the Ro Lerma, 62km
west, into giant cisterns to supply the city. Experimenting with waterproof paints, the artist
covered the collection tank, sluice gates and part of the pipeline with images of amphibious
beings and the workers involved in the project. The murals are housed in a pavilion behind
the Tlaloc fountain, another Rivera work. Though not technically open, the guard can be
persuaded to let you in for a tip.
 Velocidad (Speed; Map pp114-15; Plaza Jurez, Av Jurez; mBellas Artes) Originally designed for a
Chrysler factory, this 1953 work by David Siqueiros represents the notion of speed through
the kinetic figure of a female runner. The mosaic canvas was transplanted to the entrance of
the new Plaza Jurez shopping mall as part of the Alameda development project.
 Historia de Mxico (History of Mexico; Map pp114-15; Mercado Abelardo Rodrguez, Repblica de
Venezuela, cnr Rodrguez Puebla; mZcalo) The large Abelardo Rodrguez public market, east of the
Zcalo, became a canvas for a group of young international artists in the 1930s. Sadly many
of these paintings are decaying from neglect. One of the most intriguing (and best preserved)
works, created by the Japanese artist Isama Noguchi, is a dynamic three-dimensional mural
sculpted of cement and plaster that symbolizes the struggle against fascism. Its located in
the community center, upstairs from the southeast corner of the market.
 El Perfil del Tiempo (The Profile of Time; Map pp110-11; Metro Copilco, lnea 3 platform; mCopilco)
As any metro rider is aware, the walls of many stations were illustrated by major artists
during the 1980s. The Copilco station, at the eastern entrance to UNAM, features this work by
Durango artist Guillermo Cenicero. Covering 1000 sq meters the largest of any metro
murals it surveys the history of world painting, from Spains Altamira cave paintings to
Mexicos modern masters, and also includes scenes from the conquest of Mexico.
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THROW A PESO IN THE HAT
Dressed in khaki uniforms, they stand on street corners, in front of theaters, at busy traffic inter-
sections anywhere that people congregate. They work in pairs: the organ grinder and the tip
collector, who extends an upturned cap at any pedestrian or driver in sight. The music-maker
cranks the handle of a varnished wooden box, manufactured in Berlin in the late 19th century,
to produce a carnivalesque string of tunes that echo Mexicos distant past. The jukeboxes of
their era, these organs generally play eight tunes of a minute each. Though some passersby
consider them a mere annoyance, the 100 or so organ grinders who work the city are actually
heirs to a tradition dating back to before the Revolution. Brought over by Italian immigrants who
earned their living as itinerant carnival performers, the instrument became fashionable during
the Porfirio Daz regime. Later the old European ditties were replaced by Mexican tunes. If youd
like to see the tradition continue, drop a few pesos in the hat.

Agustn Iturbide, a hero of the Mexican LA CIUDADELA


struggle for independence. To the cheers The formidable compound now known
of a rent-a-crowd, Iturbide was proclaimed as The Citadel started off as a tobacco
Emperor Agustn I here in 1822. (He ab- factory in the late 18th century. Later it
dicated less than a year later, after Gen- was converted to an armory and political
eral Santa Anna announced the birth of a prison, but is best known as the scene of
republic.) Acquired and restored by Ban- the Decena Trgica (Tragic Ten Days),
amex bank in 1965, the palace now func- the coup that brought down the Madero
tions as the Palacio de Cultura Banamex, government in 1913. Today it is home to
with exhibits drawn from the banks vast the Biblioteca Nacional Jos Vasconcelos (National
Mexican art collection, as well as contem- Library; Map pp114-15; % 5510-2591; Plaza de la
porary Mexican handicrafts. Some of the Ciudadela 4; h7:30am-7:30pm; mBalderas), with
palaces original salons are displayed on holdings of over 260,000 volumes and a
the upper level, along with exhibits on its good periodicals collection. The central
eventful history. Guided tours are offered halls are given over to art exhibits.
(in Spanish) at noon, 2pm and 4pm. At the Calle Balderas entrance is the Cen-
tro de la Imagen (Map pp114-15; %9172-4724; www
UNIVERSIDAD DEL CLAUSTRO DE .conaculta.gob.mx/cimagen; admission free; h11am-6pm
SOR JUANA Tue-Sun; mBalderas), the citys photography
Considered the greatest Spanish-language museum. This innovatively curated mu-
poet of the 17th century, Sister Juana Ins seum stages compelling exhibitions, often
de la Cruz composed many of her sonnets focusing on documentary views of Mexican
in the former convent of San Jernimo, life by some of the countrys sharpest
today the University of the Cloister of Sor observers. Pick up a copy of Luna Crnea,
Juana (Map pp114-15; % 5130-3336; www.ucsj.edu the photography journal published by the
.mx; Izazaga 92; admission free; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am- center, at the excellent bookstore.
3pm Sat; mIsabel la Catlica). Its magnificent two-
level cloister, dating from 1585, now buzzes Alameda Central & Around
with students of gastronomy, literature and The only sizable downtown park, the Alameda
philosophy. To the east is the painstakingly Central is surrounded by some of the citys
restored Iglesia de San Jernimo contain- most interesting buildings and museums.
ing Sor Juanas tomb and a 1750 portrait Less than 1km from the Zcalo, it is near two
of the poetess. The series of tiled niches metro stations, Bellas Artes on its east, and
on its south wall is what remains on the Hidalgo on its northwest corner.
confessional. The adjacent Museo de la Under the administration of Mayor
Indumentaria Mexicana (Map pp114-15; admission Lpez Obrador, the Alameda and adjacent
free; h 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) displays regional Av Jurez have undergone ambitious re-
outfits from around Mexico. development. The Foreign Relations Secre-
The university also hosts a dynamic range tariat towers, designed by leading architect
of cultural activities, including films, plays, Ricardo Legorreta, and Sheraton Centro
book presentations and conferences. Histrico have transformed the look of the
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corridor, much of which was destroyed in here in 1934. Capitalism, accompanied by


the 1985 earthquake. Opened in 2006 to war, is shown on the left; socialism, with
occupy the art-deco structure at the corner health and peace, on the right.
of Independencia and Revillagigedo, the On the north side are David Alfaro
Museo de Arte Popular should have a galva- Siqueiros three-part La Nueva Democraca
nizing effect on the moribund zone south of (New Democracy) and Riveras four-part
Jurez. The museum will be a major show- Carnaval de la Vida Mexicana (Carnival of
case for Mexicos folk arts and traditions. Mexican Life); to the east is Jos Clemente
Orozcos eye-catching La Katharsis
ALAMEDA CENTRAL (Catharsis), depicting the conflict between
Created in the late 1500s by mandate of humankinds social and natural aspects.
then-Viceroy Luis de Velasco, the Alameda The 4th-floor Museo Nacional de Arquitectura
(Map pp11415) took its name from the la- (admission $2.75, free Sun; h10:30am-5pm Tue-Sun)
mos (poplars) planted over its rectangular features changing exhibits on contemporary
expanse. By the late 19th century, the park architecture.
was graced with European-style statuary The Bellas Artes theater (only available
and a bandstand and lit by gas lamps. It for viewing at performances) is itself an
became the place to be seen for the citys architectural gem, with a stained-glass
elite. Today the Alameda is a popular refuge, curtain depicting the Valle de Mxico. Based
particularly on Sunday when families stroll on a design by Mexican painter Gerardo
its broad pathways and gather for open-air Murillo (aka Dr Atl), it was assembled by
concerts. New York jeweler Tiffany & Co from al-
most a million pieces of colored glass.
PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES In addition, the palace stages outstanding
Dominating the east end of the Alameda temporary art exhibitions and the Ballet
is the splendid white-marble Palace of Fine Folclrico de Mxico (see p171). A worth-
Arts (Map pp114-15; %5512-2593; Hidalgo 1; admis- while bookstore and elegant caf are on the
sion $3.25, free Sun; h 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; m Bel- premises too.
las Artes), a concert hall and arts center
commissioned by President Porfirio Daz. MUSEO FRANZ MAYER
Construction began in 1905 under Italian An oasis of calm and beauty north of the
architect Adamo Boari, who favored neo- Alameda, the Franz Mayer Museum (Map pp114-15;
classical and art-nouveau styles. The project % 5518-2266; Hidalgo 45; admission $2.75, Tue
became more complicated than anticipated free; h 10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, until 7pm Wed;
as the heavy marble shell sank into the mBellas Artes) is the fruit of the efforts of
spongy subsoil, and then the Revolution Franz Mayer, born in Mannheim, Germany,
intervened. Work was halted and Boari re- in 1882. Prospering as a financier in his
turned to Italy. Architect Federico Mariscal adopted Mexico, Mayer amassed the col-
eventually finished the interior in the 1930s, lection of Mexican silver, textiles, ceramics
utilizing the more modern art-deco style. and furniture masterpieces that is now on
Immense murals dominate the upper display at the museum.
floors. On the 2nd floor are two early- Taking up the west side of the compact
1950s works by Rufino Tamayo: Mxico Plaza de Santa Veracruz, the museum is
de Hoy (Mexico Today) and Nacimiento housed in the old hospice of the San Juan
de la Nacionalidad (Birth of Nationality), de Dios order. Under the brief reign of
a symbolic depiction of the creation of the Maximilian it became a halfway house for
mestizo (person of mixed indigenous and prostitutes.
Spanish ancestry) identity. The exhibit halls open off a superb
At the west end of the 3rd floor is Diego colonial patio; along its west side is a suite
Riveras famous El Hombre En El Cruce of rooms decorated in antique furnishings,
de Caminos (Man at the Crossroads), on the north side the Cloister Caf.
originally commissioned for New Yorks
Rockefeller Center. The Rockefellers had MUSEO MURAL DIEGO RIVERA
the original destroyed because of its anti- Among Diego Riveras most famous works
capitalist themes, but Rivera re-created it is Sueo de una Tarde Dominical en la
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Alameda (Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in 1930s: the tombs of the revolutionary and
the Alameda), painted in 1947. In the 15m- post-revolutionary heroes Pancho Villa,
long by 4m-high mural, the artist imagined Francisco Madero, Venustiano Carranza,
many of the figures who walked in the city Plutarco Elas Calles and Lzaro Crdenas
from colonial times onward, among them are inside its wide pillars.
Corts, Jurez, Emperor Maximilian, Por- Underlying the monument, the Museo
firio Daz, and Francisco Madero and his Nacional de la Revolucin (National Museum of the
nemesis, General Victoriano Huerta. All Revolution; Map pp114-15; % 5546-2115; Plaza de la
are grouped around a Catarina (skeleton Repblica; admission $1.25, free Sun; h9am-5pm Tue-
in prerevolutionary womens garb). Rivera Sun; mRevolucin) covers an 80-year period,
himself, as a pug-faced child, and Frida from the implementation of the constit-
Kahlo stand beside the skeleton. Charts ution guaranteeing human rights in 1857 to
identify all the characters. the nationalization of Mexicos oil reserves
Just west of the Alameda, the Diego Rivera by President Lzaro Crdenas in 1938.
Mural Museum (Map pp114-15; %5512-0754; cnr Bal- Enter from the northeast quarter of the
deras & Coln; admission $1.50, free Sun; h10am-6pm plaza.
Tue-Sun; mHidalgo) was built in 1986 to house
the mural, after its original location, the MUSEO NACIONAL DE SAN CARLOS
Hotel del Prado, was wrecked by the 1985 The Museum of San Carlos (Map pp114-15; %5566-
earthquake. 8342; Puente de Alvarado 50; admission $2.50, Mon free;
h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; mRevolucin) exhibits a
LABORATORIO DE ARTE ALAMEDA formidable collection of European art from
As is often the case with museums in the the 16th to the early 20th century, including
Centro Histrico, the building that con- works by Rubens, Van Dyck and Goya.
tains the Alameda Art Laboratory (Map pp114-15; Occupying the former mansion of the
%5510-2793; www.artealameda.inba.gob.mx; Dr Mora Conde de Buenavista, the unusual rotunda
7; admission $1.50, free Sun; h 9am-5pm Tue-Sun; structure was designed by Manuel Tols
mHidalgo) is as interesting as its contents. in the late 18th century. It later became
The former church is just a fragment of home to Alamo-victor Santa Anna, and
the 17th-century Convento de San Diego subsequently served as a cigar factory, lot-
that was dismantled under the post- tery headquarters and school before being
independence reform laws. As the museums reborn as a museum in 1968.
name suggests, it hosts installations by
leading experimental artists from Mexico Paseo de la Reforma
and abroad, with an emphasis on current Mexico Citys main boulevard runs
electronic, virtual and interactive media. southwest past the Alameda Central and
They could not have asked for a grander through the Bosque de Chapultepec.
exhibition space. Emperor Maximilian of Hapsburg laid
out the boulevard to connect his castle on
Plaza de la Repblica & Around Chapultepec Hill with the old city center.
This plaza, west of the Alameda Central, Youll almost certainly pass along Reforma
is dominated by the imposing, domed at some point during your stay, to call at
Monumento a la Revolucin. The grand one of the nearby banks, shops, hotels,
art-deco building northeast of the plaza is restaurants or embassies.
the Frontn de Mxico, a now-defunct jai- The Lpez Obrador administration
alai arena. undertook a thorough restoration of Paseo
de la Reforma, paving the broad esplanades
MONUMENTO A LA REVOLUCIN with mosaic cobblestones and planting at-
Begun in the 1900s under Porfirio Daz, tractive gardens along its length.
the Monumento a la Revolucin (Map pp114 Paseo de la Reforma links a series of
15) was originally meant to be a meeting monumental glorietas (traffic circles) and
chamber for legislators. But construction is studded with impressive architecture. A
(not to mention Daz presidency) was inter- couple of blocks west of the Alameda Central
rupted by the Revolution. The structure is El Caballito (Map pp11415), a bright
was modified and given a new role in the yellow representation of a horses head by
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MEXICO CIT Y

the sculptor Sebastin. It commemorates an- GETTING THERE & AWAY


other equestrian sculpture that stood here for Metro Hidalgo is on Reforma at the Alameda
127 years and today fronts the Museo Nacio- Central; Insurgentes station marks the
nal de Arte (p131). A few blocks southwest southern edge of the Zona Rosa, 500m south
on Reforma is the Monumento a Cristbal Coln of Reforma. Any Metro Auditorio bus
(Map pp11415), an 1877 statue by French heading southwest on Reforma continues
sculptor Enrique Cordier of Columbus through the Bosque de Chapultepec, while
gesturing toward the horizon. Metro Chapultepec buses terminate just
Reformas busy intersection with Av south of Reforma at the east end of the
Insurgentes is marked by the Monumento a Bosque de Chapultepec. In the opposite
Cuauhtmoc (Map pp11819), memorializing direction, Metro Hidalgo and La Villa
the last Aztec emperor. Two blocks northwest buses head northeast up Reforma to the
is the Jardn del Arte, site of a lovely Sunday art Alameda Central and beyond.
market (p176). A metrobus, similar to the one along Av
The Centro Burstil (Map pp11819), a glass Insurgentes, is planned to run the length
arrow housing the nations stock exchange of Reforma.
(Bolsa), marks the northeast corner of the
Zona Rosa. Continuing west past the US Zona Rosa
embassy, you reach the symbol of Mexico Both glossy and sleazy, the Pink Zone is
City, the Monumento a la Independencia (Map an integral piece of the Mexico City jigsaw.
pp118-19; admission free; h10am-6pm; mInsurgen- People-watching from its sidewalk cafs
tes). Known as El ngel (The Angel), this reveals a higher degree of diversity than
gilded statue of Victory on a 45m pillar was elsewhere: its the citys principal gay and
sculpted for the independence centennial of lesbian district and an expat haven, with a
1910. The female figures around the base significant Korean population.
portray Law, Justice, War and Peace; the
male ones are Mexican independence her- Condesa & Roma
oes. Inside the monument are the remains Colonia Condesas architecture, palm-lined
of Miguel Hidalgo, Ignacio Allende, Juan esplanades and idyllic parks echo its early-
Aldama and nine other notables. 20th-century origins as a haven for a newly
At Reformas intersection with Sevilla is emerging elite. La Condesa is now a trendy
the monument commonly known as La Diana neighborhood of informal restaurants and
Cazadora (Diana the Huntress; Map pp118 sidewalk cafs. Amsterdam, Tamaulipas
19), a 1942 bronze sculpture actually meant and Mazatln, with pedestrian paths, are
to represent the Archer of the North Star. worth strolling to admire the art-deco
The League of Decency under the vila and California colonialstyle buildings. A
Camacho administration had the sculptor focus is the peaceful Parque Mxico (Map
add a loincloth to the female figure, which pp11819), with an oval shape that reflects
wasnt removed until 1966. its earlier use as a horse-racing track. It
Southwest from here stands the newest makes for a delightful ramble, especially in
addition to the Mexico City skyscape, the spring when lavender jacaranda blossoms
Torre Mayor (Map pp11819). Designed by carpet the paths. Two blocks northwest
Canadian architect Heberhard Zeidler, the is Parque Espaa (Map pp11819), with a
green-glass tower rises 225m above the childrens fun fair.
capital, making it Latin Americas tallest Parque Mxico is a 200m walk west from
building. Inaugurated in 2003, the 59- the Av Insurgentes Metrobus Campeche
storey structure contains 43 floors of station. The main cluster of bistro-type
offices, 13 parking levels and a shopping eateries in Condesa is about 500m west
mall. A 52nd-floor Skydeck (% 5283-9000; of Parque Mxico, near the intersection of
adult/child 3-12 $6.50/3.25; h7-10pm Tue-Fri, 11am- Michoacn and Tamaulipas. Patriotismo
9pm Sat & Sun) affords mesmerizing views and Chapultepec metro stations are also
of the Reforma corridor, Bosque de within walking distance.
Chapultepec and beyond. Sharing this Colonia Roma, home to numerous
level is a museum with changing exhibits, artists and writers, was established in the
so plan on spending a few hours. late 19th century on the hacienda lands
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surrounding the center. Northeast of Nezahualcyotl, ruler of nearby Texcoco,
Condesa, its Parisian-style buildings (many designated the area a forest reserve.
damaged in the 1985 earthquake) are a The Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico
reminder of the Porfiriato eras admiration Citys largest park, now covers more than
for all things French. Two lovely plazas 4 sq km and has lakes, a zoo and several
Ro de Janeiro, with a giant statue of David, excellent museums. It also remains an abode
and Luis Cabrera with dancing fountains of Mexicos high and mighty, containing
reinforce the old-world character. When the current presidential residence, Los Pinos
in Roma, browse the secondhand-book (Map pp1201), and a former imperial
stores, linger in the cafs and check out a and presidential palace, the Castillo de
few art galleries. On weekends inspect the Chapultepec.
antique market along Av lvaro Obregn, The park is busiest on Sunday, when
the main thoroughfare. The neighborhood vendors line its main paths and throngs
holds literary notoriety as the site of Wil- of families come to picnic and crowd into
liam S Burroughs William Tell incident, the museums. It is divided into two main
in which the beatnik novelist fatally shot sections by two major northsouth roads,
his wife Joan while aiming for a martini Calz Chivatito and the Anillo Perifrico.
glass on her head. Most of the major attractions are in or near
the eastern 1a Seccin (First Section; Map pp120-1;
GALLERIES h5am-5pm Tue-Sun), while a large amusement
The Roma neighborhood is dotted with art park and childrens museum dominate the
galleries see www.arte-mexico.com (in 2a Seccin.
Spanish) for a map. Photo exhibitions are staged at the Galera
Centro de Cultura Casa Lamm (Map pp118-19; Abierta de las Rejas de Chapultepec, an outdoor
%5511-0899; www.casalamm.com.mx in Spanish; lvaro gallery that lines the parks northern fence
Obregn 99; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mIn- along Reforma, from the zoo entrance to
surgentes) houses a contemporary-art gallery, the Rufino Tamayo museum. These giant
plus the Manuel lvarez Bravo photo collec- photo enlargements, which often cover
tion, with more than 2000 original images by some fascinating aspects of DF history, can
masters like Henri Cartier-Bresson, Edward be viewed during the day, or by night when
Weston and Tina Modotti. theyre amply illuminated.
Other galleries of note:
Galera Nina Menocal (Map pp118-19; %5564-7209; MONUMENTO A LOS NIOS HROES
www.ninamenocal.com; Zacatecas 93; h9am-7pm Mon- The six asparagus-shaped columns mark-
Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; mInsurgentes) Highlights emerging ing the eastern entrance to the park
Latin American artists. (Map pp1201), near Chapultepec metro,
MUCA Roma (Map pp118-19; %5511-0925; Tabasco commemorate the boy heroes, six brave
73; h10am-6pm; mCuauhtmoc) Roma branch of the cadets who perished in battle. On September
university museum (p143). 13, 1847, more than 8000American troops
OMR (Map pp118-19; %5511-1179; www.galeriaomr stormed Chapultepec Castle, which then
.com; Plaza Ro de Janeiro 54; h10am-3pm & 4-7pm housed the national military academy.
Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mInsurgentes) Showcases Mexican General Santa Anna retreated
cutting-edge painting, photography and sculpture by before the onslaught, excusing the cadets
international artists. It hosts six to eight exhibitions per from fighting, but the youths, aged 13 to
year. 20, chose to defend the castle. Legend has
it that one of them, Juan Escutia, wrapped
Bosque de Chapultepec himself in a Mexican flag and leapt to his
Chapultepec Hill of Grasshoppers in death rather than surrender.
Nhuatl served as a refuge for the wan-
dering Aztecs before becoming a summer CASTILLO DE CHAPULTEPEC
residence for their noble class. It was the The castle atop Chapultepec Hill was built in
nearest freshwater supply for Tenochtitln 1785 as a residence for the viceroys of Nueva
and an aqueduct was built to channel its Espaa. After independence it became the
waters over Lago de Texcoco to the pre- national military academy. When Emperor
Hispanic capital. In the 15th century, Maximilian and Empress Carlota arrived
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in 1864, they refurbished it as their resi- way depicting the cry for independence
dence. The castle became home to Mexicos at Dolores Hidalgo, the May 5 battle of
presidents until 1939 when President Lzaro Puebla, the execution of Maximillian, and
Crdenas converted it into the Museo Nacio- the triumphant entrance of Madero into
nal de Historia (National History Museum; Map pp120-1; Mexico City. The tour ends at a circular
%5241-3100; admission $3.50; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sun; hall that contains only one item a replica
mChapultepec). of the 1917 Constitution of Mexico.
Historical exhibits, chronicling the
period from the rise of colonial Nueva MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO
Espaa to the Mexican Revolution, occupy The Museum of Modern Art (Map pp120-1; %5211-
the museum. The east end of the castle pre- 8331; cnr Paseo de la Reforma & Gandhi; admission $2, Sun
serves the palace occupied by Maximilian free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mChapultepec) exhibits
and Carlota, flanked by a patio with ex- work by noteworthy 20th-century Mexican
pansive views. On the upper floor are artists. The main building consists of four
Porfirio Daz sumptuous rooms, opening skylit rotundas, housing canvasses by Dr
onto a patio where a tower marks the top Atl, Rivera, Siqueiros, Orozco, Kahlo,
of Chapultepec Hill, 45m above street level. Tamayo and OGorman, among others.
The lower southwest room covers the battle Las Dos Fridas, possibly Frida Kahlos most
of Chapultepec, with portraits of the six well-known painting, is in the Sala Xavier
heroic boys (see p137) Villarrutia. Temporary exhibitions feature
In addition to displaying such iconic prominent Mexican and foreign artists. Just
objects as Santa Annas wooden leg and northwest of the Monumento a los Nios
the Virgin of Guadalupe banner borne Hroes (access is via Paseo de la Reforma),
by Miguel Hidalgo in his march for the museum has a pleasant caf beside a
independence, the academy features a sculpture garden.
number of dramatic interpretations of
Mexican history by leading muralists ZOOLGICO DE CHAPULTEPEC
including Juan OGormans Retablo de la The Chapultepec Zoo (Map pp120-1; %5553-6263;
Independencia (Panel of Independence) in admission free; h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sun; mAuditorio)
room 5, and David Alfaro Siqueiros Del houses a wide range of the worlds creatures
Porfiriato a la Revolucin (From Porfirism in large open-air enclosures. The first place
to the Revolution) in room 13. outside China where pandas were born in
To reach the castle, follow the road that captivity, the zoo has three of these rare bears,
curves up the hill behind the Monumento descendants of the original pair donated by
a los Nios Hroes. Alternatively, a little the Peoples Republic in 1975. Endangered
road-train ($1 round-trip) runs up every 10 Mexican species include the Mexican grey
minutes while the castle is open. wolf and the hairless xoloitzcuintle, the only
At the base of the castle is one of the surviving dog species from pre-Hispanic
parks perennial attractions, the Casa de los times.
Espejos (Map pp120-1; admission $0.30; mChapultepec), Part of Chapultepec forest was given over
housing 16 fun-house mirrors imported to a bird sanctuary back during Moctezumas
from Spain in 1932. reign; today, parrots, macaws, toucans,
flamingos and other Mexican species swoop
MUSEO DEL CARACOL around the Aviario Moctezuma (only 20
From the Castillo de Chapultepec, the Museo visitors allowed in at a time).
del Caracol (Map pp120-1; %5241-3145; admission There are various fast-food franchises on
$3; h10am-4:15pm Tue-Sun; mChapultepec) is a the premises.
short distance back down the road. Shaped
somewhat like a snail shell, this gallery MUSEO NACIONAL DE ANTROPOLOGA
of history traces the origins of Mexicos The National Museum of Anthropology (Map
present-day institutions, identity and pp120-1; % 5553-6381; www.mna.inah.gob.mx; cnr
values through a series of audio-enhanced Paseo de la Reforma & Gandhi; admission $3.50; h9am-
dioramas re-enacting key moments in 7pm Tue-Sun; mAuditorio), among the finest of
the countrys struggle for liberty. The 12 its kind, stands in an extension of the
exhibit halls spiral downward, along the Bosque de Chapultepec.
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The vast museum offers more than from the hilltop site of Monte Albn is reproduced full-size
most people can absorb in a single visit. below the main exhibit hall.
Concentrate on the regions you plan to Culturas de la Costa del Golfo Spotlights the
visit or have visited, with a quick look at important civilizations along the Gulf of Mexico including
some of the other eye-catching exhibits. the Olmec, Classic Veracruz, Totonac and Huastec. Stone
Everything is superbly displayed, with carvings here include two Olmec heads weighing in at
much explanatory text translated into almost 20 tons.
English. Audio-guide devices, in English, Maya Has exhibits from southeast Mexico, Guatemala,
are available at the entrance ($6). Belize and Honduras. A full-scale replica of the tomb
The spacious complex, constructed in of King Pakal, discovered deep in the Templo de las
the 1960s, is the work of Mexican architect Inscripciones at Palenque, is breathtaking. On the outside
Pedro Ramrez Vzquez. Its long, rectangu- patio are reproductions of the famous wall paintings of
lar courtyard is surrounded on three sides Bonampak and of Edificio II at Hochob, in Campeche,
by two-storey display halls. An immense constructed as a giant mask of the rain god, Chac.
umbrella-like stone fountain rises up from Culturas del Occidente Profiles cultures of western
the center of the courtyard. Mexico from Nayarit, Jalisco, Michoacn, Colima and
The 12 ground-floor salas (halls) are Guerrero states. Reproductions of the regions characteristic
dedicated to pre-Hispanic Mexico. The shaft tombs are on display.
upper level shows how Mexicos indigenous Culturas del Norte Covers the Casas Grandes (Paquim)
descendants live today. Heres a brief guide site and other cultures from arid northern Mexico, and
to the ground-floor halls, proceeding traces their links with indigenous groups of the US
counterclockwise around the courtyard: southwest.
Culturas Indgenas de Mxico Currently serves as a
space for temporary exhibitions. In a clearing about 100m in front of the
Introduccin a la Antropologa Introduces visitors museums entrance, indigenous Totonac
to the field of anthropology and traces the emergence of people perform their spectacular voladores
homo sapiens from its hominid ancestors. rite flying from a 20m-high pole (see
Poblamiento de Amrica Demonstrates how the p678) several times a day.
hemispheres earliest settlers got here and survived in their
new environment. MUSEO RUFINO TAMAYO
Preclsico en el Altiplano Central Focuses on the A multilevel concrete and glass structure east
Pre-classic period, approximately 2300 BC to AD 100. These of the Museo Nacional de Antropologa, the
exhibits highlight the transition from a nomadic hunting Tamayo Museum (Map pp120-1; %5286-6519; www
life to a more settled farming life in Mexicos Central .museotamayo.org in Spanish; cnr Paseo de la Reforma
Highlands. & Gandhi; admission $1.50, free Sun; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun;
Teotihuacn Displays models and objects from the mAuditorio) was built to house international
Americas first great and powerful state. The exhibit includes modern art donated by Oaxaca-born Rufino
a full-size replica of part of the Templo de Quetzalcatl. Tamayo and his wife, Olga, to the people
Los Toltecas y Su poca Covers cultures of central of Mexico. Exhibitions of cutting-edge
Mexico between about AD 650 and 1250 and is named for modern art from around the globe alternate
one of the most important, the Toltecs. On display is one with thematically arranged shows from the
of the four basalt warrior columns from Tulas Temple of Tamayo collection.
Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli.
Mexica Devoted to the Mexicas, aka Aztecs. Come here to SEGUNDA (2) SECCIN
see the famous sun stone, unearthed in a fractured state The second section of the Bosque de
beneath the Zcalo in 1790. Though often erroneously Chapultepec lies west of the Perifrico.
identified as a representation of the Aztec calendar, it is In addition to family attractions, there is
probably a sacrificial altar. It depicts the face of the fire a pair of upscale lake-view restaurants on
god, Xiuhtechtli, at the center of a web of symbols rep- the Lago Mayor and Lago Menor.
resenting the Mexica vision of the cosmos. Other exhibits Kids will enjoy La Feria (Map pp120-1;
include a model of the Tlatelolco market, an aerial view %5230-2121; passes from $2.75; h10am-6pm Mon-
painting of Tenochtitln, and more magnificent sculptures Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; mConstituyentes), an old-
from the pantheon of Aztec deities. fashioned amusement park with some
Culturas de Oaxaca Devoted to that states cultural hair-raising rides. A Super Ecoln passport
heights, scaled by the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. A tomb ($7.50) is good for all the rides except the
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roller-coaster and a few others; a pase mgico to the Aztec flower prince, with terraced
($2.75) includes two dozen childrens rides fountains around a talud tablerostyle
and five big kids rides. There is separate pyramid (a steep building style typical of
admission for the white-whales show. Teotihuacn).
Your children wont want to leave Papalote
Museo del Nio (Map pp120-1; %5237-1700; www GETTING THERE & AWAY
.papalote.org.mx; adult/child 2-11yr & seniors $9/8; Chapultepec metro station is at the east
h9am-6pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-11pm Thu, 10am-7pm end of the Bosque de Chapultepec, near
Sat & Sun; mConstituyentes). At this innovative, the Monumento a los Nios Hroes and
hands-on museum, kids can put together a Castillo de Chapultepec. Auditorio metro
radio program, lie on a bed of nails, join an station is on the north side of the park,
archaeological dig and try out all manner of 500m west of the Museo Nacional de
technological gadget-games. Everything is Antropologa.
attended by child-friendly supervisors. The From anywhere on Paseo de la Reforma
museum also features a 3-D IMAX movie west of the Alameda Central, buses saying
theater. Metro Chapultepec reach Chapultepec
Just north of Papalote, the Museo Tec- metro station, while Metro Auditorio
nolgico (Map pp120-1; %5516-0964; admission free; buses pass right outside the Museo Nacional
h9am-5pm; mConstituyentes), managed by the de Antropologa. Returning downtown,
Federal Electricity Commission, showcases any Metro Hidalgo/La Villa, Alameda or
Mexicos technological developments, with Garibaldi bus, from either metro Chapulte-
interactive exhibits on electricity and pec or heading east on Reforma, follows
transportation as well as a planetarium. Reforma at least as far as metro Hidalgo.
The Museo de Historia Natural (Natural History To get to the 2a Seccin and La Feria,
Museum; Map pp120-1; %5515-6304; admission $1.75, from metro Chapultepec take the Paradero
Tue free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mConstituyentes), a exit and catch a Feria bus at the top of the
10-minute walk west of Papalote, presents stairs. These depart continuously and travel
the evolution of life on earth under a series nonstop to the 2a Seccin, dropping off
of colored domes. riders at the Papalote Museo del Nio,
Circling around the Lago Menor, youll Museo Tecnolgico and La Feria.
find the Fuente de Tlaloc by Diego Rivera, a
huge mosaic-skinned sculpture of the rain Polanco
god lying in an oval pool in front of the old This affluent residential quarter north of
Chapultepec water works. To the north is Bosque de Chapultepec (Map pp1201),
the beautiful Fuente de Xochipilli, dedicated where the streets are named after writers

BARRAGNS MEXICAN WORLDVIEW


Luis Barragn (190288) led Mexico to the forefront of international modern architecture through
a very personal view about living space. Born into an hacendado family in Jalisco state, he de-
veloped a passion for horse riding from an early age. Trained as a civil engineer, he taught
himself architecture, making his name as a modernist designer of urban dwellings. His most
visible work is the group of colorful skyscraper sculptures at the gateway to Ciudad Satlite,
on Bulevar vila Camacho (aka the Perifrico) north of downtown Mexico City. His works were
both informed by the currents of modernism and imbued with the light and colors of Mexicos
landscapes, villages and colonial architecture. Barragn received the Pritzer Prize, international
architectures highest honor, in 1980.
South of the Bosque de Chapultepecs 2a Seccin, Barragns home which he inhabited from
1948 until his death 40 years later was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 2004 as
a masterpiece of human creative genius. With its purposely circuitous passageways, seamless
integration of outdoor and indoor spaces, bold swathes of Mexican folk tones, and a rooftop ter-
race that has the sky as its canopy, the Casa Luis Barragn (Map pp120-1; %5272-4945; www.casaluis
barragan.org; General Francisco Ramrez 12; admission $7.50; h 10am-1pm & 4-5pm by guided tour only;
mConstituyentes) is a monument to both Barragns vision and the Mexican worldview.
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MEXICO CIT Y
and scientists, contains lots of restaurants, vegetation and mud in the shallow waters
art galleries and embassies, some luxury of Lake Xochimilco, a southern offshoot of
hotels and the Sectur tourist office (p127). Lago de Texcoco, to make fertile gardens
Much of the architecture is in the California called chinampas, which later became an
Colonial style of the 1930s and 1940s, economic base of the Aztec empire. As the
with carved stone doorways and window chinampas proliferated, much of the lake
surrounds. A tour of Polanco could be was transformed into a series of canals.
combined with a visit to the nearby Museo Approximately 180km of these waterways
Nacional de Antropologa (p138). remain today and provide a favorite
weekend destination for defeos (residents of
Xochimilco & Around Mexico City). The chinampas are still under
About 20km south of downtown Mexico cultivation, mainly for garden plants and
City, the urban sprawl is strung with a flowers such as poinsettias and marigolds.
network of canals lined by gardens. These are On weekends a fiesta atmosphere takes
the so-called floating gardens of Xochimilco over as the town and waterways become
(so-chi-meel-co), remnants of the chinam- jammed with people arranging boats
pas where the indigenous inhabitants grew to cruise the canals. Local vendors and
their food. Gliding along the canals in a musicians hover alongside the partygoers
trajinera (gondola) is an alternately tranquil serving food and drink, playing marimbas
and festive experience. Nearby attractions and taking photos with old box cameras.
include an ecological theme park and one (For a more relaxed atmosphere, come on
of the citys best art museums. a weekday.)
Hundreds of colorful trajineras await
MUSEO DOLORES OLMEDO PATIO passengers at the villages nine embarcaderos
Set in a peaceful 17th-century hacienda, the (boat landings). Nearest to the center are
Olmedo Patio museum (Map p124; %5555-1221; Av Salitre and San Cristbal embarcaderos,
Mxico 5843; admission $2.75, free Tue; h10am-6pm Tue- both 400m east of the plaza; and Fernando
Sun), 2km west of Xochimilco, has perhaps Celada, 400m west on Guadalupe Ramrez.
the biggest and most important Diego Rivera Boats seat 14 to 20 persons; official cruise
collection of all. Youll see xoloitzcuintles, a prices ($13 to $15 per hour) are posted at
pre-Hispanic hairless canine breed, roaming the embarcaderos. On Saturday, Sunday and
the estates extensive gardens. holidays, 60-person lanchas colectivos run
Dolores Olmedo Patio, who resided between the Salitre, Caltongo and Nativitas
here until her death in 2002, was a socialite embarcaderos charging $1 per passenger.
and a patron of Rivera. The museums 137 You can get a taste of Xochimilco in one
Rivera works including oils, watercolors hour, but its worth going for longer; youll
and lithographs from various periods are see more and get a proper chance to relax.
displayed alongside pre-Hispanic figurines You can arrange for your trajinera to stop
and folk art. Another room is reserved for at Nativitas embarcadero for some shopping
Frida Kahlos paintings. at its large artesanas market.
To get there take the Tren Ligero (light Though the canals are definitely the main
rail) from metro Tasquea and get off at attraction, Xochimilco village is also worthy
La Noria. Leaving the station, turn left of exploration. East of Jardn Jurez stands
at the top of the steps, walk down to the the 16th-century Parroquia de San Bernardino
street and continue to an intersection with de Siena (Map p124), with elaborate gold-
a footbridge. Here turn a sharp left, almost painted retablos (altarpieces) and a large
doubling back on your path, onto Anti- tree-studded atrium. To the south is the
guo Camino a Xochimilco. The museum is bustling Mercado de Xochimilco.
300m down this street. To reach Xochimilco, take the metro to
Tasquea station, then continue on the Tren
XOCHIMILCO Ligero ($0.20) to its last stop. Upon exiting
Xochimilco, Nhuatl for Place where Flow- the station, turn left (north) and follow Av
ers Grow, was an early target of Aztec Morelos to the market, plaza and church. If
hegemony, probably due to its inhabitants you dont feel like walking, bicycle taxis will
farming skills. The Xochimilcas piled up shuttle you to the embarcaderos ($3).
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MEXICO CIT Y

PARQUE ECOLGICO DE XOCHIMILCO Tue-Sun; mMiguel Angel de Quevado) occupies a


Owing to its cultural and historical signifi- 17th-century mansion. As compelling as
cance, Xochimilco was designated a Unesco the treasure trove of Mexican baroque and
World Heritage site in 1987. However, medieval European paintings is the elabor-
encroaching urbanization and illegal settle- ate fountain in the courtyard, a mosaic of
ment along the canals have put a strain on Talavera tile and Chinese porcelain.
this unique habitat, and at least one endemic About 50m west from the plaza is the
species of the zone, the axolotl a fish-like 16th-century Iglesia de San Jacinto and its
salamander is in danger of extinction. Thus peaceful gardens.
in 1991 the Ecological Park of Xochimilco (%5673-
8061; Perifrico Oriente 1; adult/senior/child $1.50/0.50/0.20; MUSEO CASA ESTUDIO DIEGO RIVERA Y
h 9am-6pm) was established, about 3km FRIDA KAHLO
northeast of downtown Xochimilco, both to One kilometer northwest of Plaza San
recover the zones fragile ecosystem and to Jacinto is the Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Studio
provide a retreat for stressed-out urbanites. Museum (Map p122; %5550-1518; Diego Rivera 2, cnr
Covering some 2 sq km, the protected Av Altavista; admission $1, free Sun; h10am-6pm Tue-
area comprises a botanical garden, artificial Sun). Designed by their friend, the architect
lakes and a variety of waterbirds. Stroll the and painter Juan OGorman, the innovative
pleasant pathways, or rent a bicycle or pedal abode was the home of the artistic couple
boat for more extensive exploration. In the from 1934 to 1940, with a separate house
parks southeast corner, chinampas have for each of them. If you saw Frida, youll
been set aside to demonstrate traditional recognize the building, which served as a
indigenous cultivation techniques. A visitors location in the film.
center has displays on plants and birds. Though the museum has only a few ex-
Trajineras departing from Embarcadero amples of Riveras art and none of Kahlos,
Cuemanco, 2km west of the park entrance, it does hold a lot of memorabilia. Riveras
ply this lower-key section of the canals. This house (the pink one) has an upstairs stu-
is also the best point of departure for an dio. Across the street is the San ngel Inn
excursion to the Isla de las Muecas (p150). (p164), in the 17th-century Ex-Hacienda
To reach Parque Ecolgico de Xochimilco, de Goicoechea, once the home of the mar-
take the Tren Ligero to the Perifrico station. quises of La Selva Nevada and the count
Exit on the Xochimilco-bound side, then go of Pinillas. The former pulque hacienda is
through the tunnel that underpasses the where Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata
Perifrico freeway. Emerging from the tun- agreed to divide control of the country.
nel, turn right and walk to where you catch a
Cuemanco pesero (colectivo; minibus); the TEMPLO Y MUSEO DE EL CARMEN
park entrance is a 10-minute ride. The austere Templo de El Carmen houses
a museum (Map p122; %5616-2816; www.museo
San ngel deelcarmen.org in Spanish; Av Revolucin 4; admission
Just a little over 60 years ago, San ngel $3, free Sun; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) in the former
was a village separated from Mexico City by monastic quarters of the Carmelite order.
open fields. Today its one of the citys most Irrigated by the waters of the Ro de la
charming suburbs, with quiet cobblestoned Magdalena, its orchard was once a source of
streets lined by both old colonial and ex- cuttings and seeds for much of colonial
pensive modern houses, and a variety of Mexico. The convent is a storehouse of
things to see and do. magnificent sacred art, including eight oils
Av Insurgentes Sur and Av Revolucin run by Mexican master Cristbal Villalpando.
north to south through eastern San ngel. The polychrome and gilt ceiling decoration
are unique examples of this type of work
PLAZA SAN JACINTO in Mexico. The big draw, however,
Every Saturday the Bazar Sbado (p177) is the dozen mummies in the crypt. Thought
brings masses of color and crowds of people to be the bodies of 17th-century benefactors
to San ngels Plaza San Jacinto. of the order, they were uncovered during the
The Museo Casa del Risco (Map p122; %5616- revolution by Zapatistas looking for buried
2711; Plaza San Jacinto 15; admission free; h10am-5pm treasure.
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JARDN DE LA BOMBILLA with two prominent zodiac wheels, covers
Popular with Chilango families, this pleasant colonial times, while the north wall deals
park spreading east of Av Insurgentes has with Aztec culture. The east wall shows the
pedal-driven carts and motorized buggies creation of modern Mexico; and the more
for the kids. The Monumento a lvaro Obregn abstract west wall may be dedicated to Latin
(Map p122) marks the spot where the American culture as a whole.
Mexican president was assassinated during La Rectora, the administration building
a banquet in 1928. Obregns killer, Jos at the west end of the wide, grassy Jardn
de Len Toral, was involved in the Cristero Central, has a vivid, three-dimensional
rebellion against the governments anti- Siqueiros mosaic on its south wall, show-
Church policies. ing students urged on by the people. Fanci-
ful animal sculptures by Jos Luis Cuevas
GETTING THERE & AWAY dot the vast lawn, where students cram for
The La Bombilla station of the Av Insur- exams or coo to sweethearts.
gentes Metrobus is about 500m east of the South of the Rectora stands the Museo
Plaza San Jacinto. To Coyoacn, catch a Universitario de Ciencias y Arte (%5622-0305;
Metro General Anaya bus from in front www.muca.unam.mx; admission free; h10am-7pm Tue-
of the flower market on the east side of Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun), with eclectic exhibits
Av Revolucin; this will drop you by the from the university collection and some
Coyoacn market. contemporary art.
Further east, illustrating the Facultad de
Ciudad Universitaria Medicina, is an intriguing mosaic by Francisco
The University City (Map pp110-11; mUniversidad), Eppens in which Spanish and indigenous
2km south of San ngel, is the main cam- profiles combine to form a mestizo face.
pus of Latin Americas largest university, Rebuilt for the 1968 Olympics, the Estadio
the Universidad Nacional Autnoma de Olmpico, to the west of Av Insurgentes,
Mxico (UNAM), and a modern architec- seats 80,000. A Rivera mosaic resembling a
tural showpiece. To see a map go to www volcanic cone graces the main entrance.
.mapa.unam.mx. A second section of the campus, about
Founded in 1553 as the Royal and Papal 2km south, contains the Centro Cultural Uni-
University of Mexico, the institution was versitario (see p170), hosting films and the
modeled after Spains University of Sala- performing arts in its theaters and concert
manca. Most of the modern campus was halls; and the Museo Universitario de Ciencias
built between 1949 and 1952 by a team of (Universum; %5622-7287; www.universum.unam.mx in
150 young architects and technicians. Its a Spanish; admission $3.75; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-
monument to both national pride and an 6pm Sat & Sun), a science museum with kids
educational ideal in which almost anyone is activities and workshops. Other attractions
entitled to university tuition. And its pres- include UNAMs botanical gardens; the
tige remains solid: in an international sur- Unidad Bibliogrfica, housing part of
vey conducted in 2005 by The Times Higher Mexicos National Library; and the Espacio
Education Supplement, UNAM was ranked Escultrico (Sculptural Space), focused on
as the No 1 university in Latin America a striking work by Mathias Goeritz consist-
and among the top 100 higher-education ing of triangular concrete blocks around a
institutions in the world. lava bed.
UNAM has over 260,000 students and Student cafs, open to everyone during
31,000 teachers. It has often been a center academic sessions, are in both the archi-
of political dissent, most notably prior to tecture and philosophy buildings at the
the 1968 Mexico City Olympics (see the Jardn Centrals west end, and in the Cen-
boxed text, p106). tro Cultural Universitario.
Most of the faculty buildings are scattered
over an area about 1km square at the north GETTING THERE & AWAY
end. As you enter from Av Insurgentes, its Take the metrobus to its southern term-
easy to spot the Biblioteca Central (Central inus, where you can catch a Perisur
Library), 10 storeys high and covered with pesero (see map p122) to the west side
mosaics by Juan OGorman. The south wall, of the university. For the northern part
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MEXICO CIT Y

of the campus, get off at the first yellow PLAZA HIDALGO & JARDN DEL
footbridge crossing Av Insurgentes, just CENTENARIO
before the Estadio Olmpico. For the The focus of Coyoacn life, and scene of
southern section, get off at the second yel- most of the weekend fun, is its central
low footbridge after the Estadio Olmpico. plaza actually two adjacent plazas: the
Returning, catch any pesero marked San eastern Plaza Hidalgo, with a statue of Miguel
ngel-Revolucin, getting off just after it Hidalgo; and the western Jardn del Centenario,
turns left to catch the metrobus. with a coyote fountain.
Otherwise, take the metro to Universidad The Casa de Corts (Map p123; %5658-0221; Jardn
station, on the east side of the campus. Hidalgo 1; admission free; h 8am-8pm; m Viveros),
The university runs three bus routes (free) on the north side of Plaza Hidalgo, is where
from the metro station between 6:30am and conquistador Corts established Mexicos
10:30pm Monday to Friday. Ruta 1 goes first municipal seat during the siege of
west to the main part of the campus; Ruta Tenochtitln, and later had the defeated
3 heads southwest to the Centro Cultural emperor Cuauhtmoc tortured to make
Universitario. him divulge the location of Aztec treasure
(the scene is depicted on a mural inside
Coyoacn the chapel). Corts resided here until 1523
About 10km south of downtown, Coyoacn when the colonial government was trans-
(Place of Coyotes in the Nhuatl language) ferred to Mexico City. In front of the build-
was Corts base after the fall of Tenochtit- ing is a domed gazebo contributed by the
ln. It remained a small outlying town until Daz regime in 1910.
urban sprawl reached it 50 years ago. Close The 16th-century Parroquia de San Juan
to the university, and once home to Leon Bautista and its adjacent ex-monastery
Trotsky and Frida Kahlo (whose houses dominate the south side of Plaza Hidalgo.
are now fascinating museums), Coyoacn Half a block east, the Museo Nacional de
retains its own identity, with narrow Culturas Populares (Map p123; % 5554-8968;
colonial- era streets, plazas, cafs and a lively Hidalgo 289; admission free; h 10am-6pm Tue-Thu,
atmosphere. Especially on weekends, as- 10am-8pm Fri-Sun; mViveros) hosts innovative
sorted musicians, mimes and crafts mar- exhibitions on popular culture, covering
kets draw large but relaxed crowds from all such topics as lucha libre (wrestling) and
walks of life to Coyoacns central plazas. the role of maize in society. Outside, an
amazing tree of life from Metepec marks
VIVEROS DE COYOACN the 500th anniversary of the meeting of the
A pleasant approach is via the Viveros de old and new worlds.
Coyoacn (Map p123; %5554-1851; admission free;
h6am-6pm; mViveros), the principal nurseries MUSEO FRIDA KAHLO
for Mexico Citys parks and gardens. The The Blue House (Map p123; %5554-5999; Londres
390,000-sq-meter swath of greenery, 1km 247; adult/child 6-12yr $3.25/2; h 10am-6pm Tue-
west of central Coyoacn, is popular with Sun; mCoyoacn), six blocks north of Plaza
joggers and perfect for a stroll, but watch Hidalgo, was the longtime home of artist
out for belligerent squirrels! From metro Frida Kahlo (see the boxed text, opposite).
Viveros, walk south along Av Universidad Kahlo and her husband, Diego Rivera,
and take the first left, Av Progreso; or enter were part of a glamorous but far from
on Av Mxico near Calle Madrid. harmonious leftist intellectual circle (which
A block south of Viveros is the quaint Plaza included, in the 1930s, Leon Trotsky), and
Santa Catarina, with a 17th-century chapel by the house is littered with mementos. In ad-
the same name. The adjacent Centro Cultural dition to their own and other artists work, it
Jess Reyes Heroles (Map p123; %5659-3937; Francisco contains pre-Hispanic objects and Mexican
Sosa 202; 9am-7pm; mViveros) is a colonial estate crafts collected by the couple.
hosting art exhibits, concerts and culinary The Kahlo art expresses the anguish of her
demonstrations in a Talavera-tiled kitchen. existence; one painting, El Marxismo Dar la
The 700m walk east along Av Francisco Sosa to Salud (Marxism Will Give Health), shows
Plaza Hidalgo passes some beautiful 16th- her casting away her crutches. In the upstairs
and 17th-century houses. studio an unfinished portrait of Stalin stands
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MEXICO CIT Y
before a poignantly positioned wheelchair. The Trotsky home (Map p123; %5554-0687; Ro
The folk-art collection includes Mexican re- Churubusco 410; admission $2.75; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun;
gional costumes worn by Kahlo, and Riveras mCoyoacn), whose main entrance is at the
collection of retablo paintings. rear of the old residence, remains much as
it was on the day when a Stalin agent finally
MUSEO LON TROTSKY caught up with the revolutionary. The
Having come second to Stalin in the power fatal attack took place in Trotskys study.
struggle in the Soviet Union, Trotsky was Assassin Ramn Mercader, a Catalan,
expelled in 1929 and condemned to death in had become the lover of Trotskys sec-
absentia. In 1937 he found refuge in Mexico. retary and gained the confidence of
At first Trotsky and his wife, Natalia, lived the household. On August 20, 1940,
in Frida Kahlos Blue House, but after falling Mercader approached Trotsky at his desk
out with Kahlo and Rivera they moved a few and asked him to look at a document. He
streets away, to Viena 45. then pulled an ice axe from under his coat

FRIDA & DIEGO


Diego Rivera, born in Guanajuato in 1886, first met Frida Kahlo, 21 years his junior, while painting
at the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria, where she was a student in the early 1920s. Rivera was already
at the forefront of Mexican art and a socialist; his commission at the school was the first of many
semi-propagandistic murals on public buildings that he was to execute over three decades. He
had already fathered children by two Russian women in Europe and in 1922 married Lupe Marn
in Mexico. She bore him two more children before their marriage broke up in 1928.
Kahlo, born in Coyoacn in 1907, contracted polio at age six, leaving her right leg perman-
ently thinner than her left. In 1925 she was horribly injured in a trolley accident that broke
her back, right leg, collarbone, pelvis and ribs. She made a miraculous recovery but suffered
much pain thereafter and underwent many operations to try to alleviate it. It was during con-
valescence that she began painting. Pain physical and emotional was to be a dominating
theme of her art.
Kahlo and Rivera both moved in left-wing artistic circles and met again in 1928; they married
the following year. The liaison, described as a union between an elephant and a dove, was
always a passionate love-hate affair. Rivera wrote: If I ever loved a woman, the more I loved her,
the more I wanted to hurt her. Frida was only the most obvious victim of this disgusting trait.
Both had many extramarital affairs.
Kahlos beauty, bisexuality and unconventional behavior she drank tequila, told dirty jokes
and held wild parties fascinated many people. In 1934, after a spell in the USA, the pair moved
into a new home in San ngel (see p142), with separate houses for each of them, linked by an
aerial walkway. Rivera and Kahlo divorced in 1940 but remarried soon after. She moved into
the Blue House and he stayed at San ngel a state of affairs that endured for the rest of their
lives, though their relationship endured too. Kahlo remained Riveras most trusted critic, and
Rivera was Kahlos biggest fan.
Kahlo had only one exhibition in Mexico in her lifetime, in 1953. She arrived at the opening
on a stretcher. Rivera said of the exhibition, Anyone who attended it could not but marvel at
her great talent. She died, at the Blue House, the following year. Rivera called the day of her
death the most tragic day of my life Too late I realized that the most wonderful part of my
life had been my love for Frida.
Though Kahlos work was little appreciated during her lifetime, it has since become the most
highly valued of any Mexican painter or of any female artist fetching more at international
auctions than Riveras. (Kahlos Self-Portrait with Curly Hair sold for $1.3 million at a Christies
auction in 2003.)
Frida, the 2002 hit biopic, brought the painter even wider recognition. Though the film did
very well in Mexico, it got mixed reviews from intellectuals who complained that none of the
actors (except Salma Hayek, who played Kahlo) were Mexican and even worse, that they spoke
English, a betrayal of the vocally anti-American Frida.
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and smashed the pick end into Trotskys Riveras studios and some of his work, in-
skull. Mercader was arrested and spent 20 cluding a study for Man at the Crossroads,
years in prison. the mural that was commissioned for the
Memorabilia and biographical notes are Rockefeller Center in 1934.
displayed in outbuildings, and videos on the If the air is clear, theres a great view
life of the revolutionary are continuously from the roof. In November elaborate Day
screened in a room off the patio, where a of the Dead offerings pay homage to the
tomb engraved with a hammer and sickle painter.
contains the Trotskys ashes. To get to Anahuacalli, take the Tren
Ligero (from metro Tasquea) to the
EX-CONVENTO DE CHURUBUSCO Xotepingo station. Exit on the west side and
The 17th-century former Monastery of walk 200m to Divisin del Norte; cross and
Churubusco, scene of one of Mexicos continue 600m along Calle del Museo.
heroic military defeats, stands east of Av
Divisin del Norte. GETTING THERE & AWAY
On August 20, 1847, Mexican troops The nearest metro stations (1.5km to 2km)
defended the monastery against US forces to central Coyoacn are Viveros, Coyoacn
advancing from Veracruz in a dispute over and General Anaya. If you dont fancy a
the US annexation of Texas. The Mexicans walk, get off at Viveros station, walk south
fought until they ran out of ammunition to Av Progreso and catch an eastbound
and were beaten only after hand-to-hand M(etro) Gral Anaya pesero to the market.
fighting. General Pedro Anaya, when asked Returning, Metro Viveros peseros go
by US general David Twiggs to surrender west on Malitzin; Metro Coyoacn and
his ammunition, is said to have answered, Metro Gral Anaya peseros depart from the
If there was any, you wouldnt be here. west side of Plaza Hidalgo.
Cannons and memorials outside recall San ngelbound peseros and buses head
these events. west on Av MA de Quevedo, five blocks
Most of the monastery now houses the south of Plaza Hidalgo. To Ciudad Univer-
Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones (National sitaria, take a CU pesero west on Belisario
Interventions Museum; Map p123; % 5604-0699; cnr Domnguez, from the corner of Centenario.
Calle 20 de Agosto & General Anaya; admission $2.75, Sun
free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; mGeneral Anaya). Dis- Cuicuilco
plays include an American map showing Cuicuilco (Map pp110-11; %5606-9758; Insurgentes Sur;
operations in 1847, material on the French admission free; h9am-5pm), between San Fern-
occupation of the 1860s and the plot by US ando and Anillo Perifrico, is one of the
ambassador Henry Lane Wilson to bring oldest significant remnants of pre-Hispanic
down the Madero government in 1913. settlement within the DF. The civilization
Parts of the monastery gardens are also dates as far back as 800 BC, when it stood
open. on the shores of Lago de Xochimilco. In its
To reach Churubusco, catch an eastbound heyday in the 2nd century BC, the place of
M(etro) Gral Anaya pesero or bus on singing and dancing counted as many as
Xicotncatl at Allende, a few blocks north 40,000 inhabitants and rivaled Teotihuacn
of Coyoacns Plaza Hidalgo. Alternatively, in stature. The site was abandoned a couple
walk 500m from the General Anaya metro of centuries later, however, after an eruption
station. of the nearby Xitle volcano covered most of
the community in lava.
ANAHUACALLI The principal structure is a huge circular
This dramatic museum (Map pp110-11; %5617- platform of four levels, faced with volcanic
4310; Calle del Museo 150; admission $3.25; h10am- stone blocks, that probably functioned
6pm Tue-Sun), 3.5km south of Coyoacn, was as a ceremonial center. Set amid a park
designed by Diego Rivera to house his studded with cactus and shade trees, the
collection of pre-Hispanic art. A fortress- platform can be easily scaled for sweeping
like building made of dark volcanic stone, views of the southern districts including
the House of Anhuac (Aztec name for the formidable Xitle. The site includes a
the Valle de Mxico) also contains one of small museum.
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To reach Cuicuilco, take the metrobus to within and expansive gardens around the
the end of the line, then catch a Perisur bus. buildings, as well as some underground
The site is a five-minute walk south of the passageways.
Perisur shopping mall. The rest of the park has extensive walking
trails. (Robberies have been reported, so
Tlalpan stick to the main paths.)
Tlalpan is what Coyoacn used to be an
outlying colonial village with a bohemian GETTING THERE & AWAY
atmosphere and some impressive 18th- Take one of Flecha Rojas frequent Toluca
century architecture. Municipal seat of Intermedio buses from the Terminal Po-
the citys largest delegacin, Tlalpan sits at niente bus station to La Venta, on Hwy
the foot of the southern Ajusco range and 15 ($1, 30 minutes). Tell the driver your
enjoys a cooler, moister climate. There are destination and you should be dropped at
some fine restaurants along the arcades of a yellow footbridge near a caseta de cobro
the cute little plaza and a boisterous cantina (toll booth). Cross the footbridge and youll
nearby, La Jalisciense (%5573-5586; Plaza de la Con- see the Desierto de los Leones signpost on
stitucin 6). The Capilla de las Capuchinas Sacra- a side road to the south. On weekends taxis
mentarias (%5573-2395; Hidalgo 43; admission $4.50; may wait here to take people up the 4km
h9:30-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Thu), the chapel of a paved road to the Ex-Convento. Other days
convent for Capuchine nuns designed by youll probably have to walk, but traffic will
Luis Barragn in the 1940s, is a modernist be light and its a pleasant, gently rising
gem amid the colonial relics. In addition to ascent.
its historical collection, the Museo de Historia
de Tlalpn (%5573-0173; Plaza de la Constitucin 10; Tlatelolco & Guadalupe
admission free; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun) stages eclectic PLAZA DE LAS TRES CULTURAS
concert series. So named because it symbolizes the fusion
A trip out to Tlalpan could be combined of pre-Hispanic and Spanish roots into
with a visit to Cuicuilco (see opposite). the Mexican mestizo identity, the Plaza of
From metro Tasquea, take the Tren Ligero the Three Cultures (Map pp110-11; %5583-0295;
to the Estadio Azteca station, then catch a Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas, cnr Flores Magn; admis-
Centro de Tlalpan pesero. sion free; h8am-6pm; mTlatelolco) displays the
architectural legacy of three cultural facets:
Parque Nacional Desierto de los Leones the Aztec pyramids of Tlatelolco, the 17th-
Cool, fragrant pine and oak forests dominate century Spanish Templo de Santiago and
this 20-sq-km national park (h6am-5pm) in the former Foreign Relations Secretariat
the hills surrounding the Valle de Mxico. building on the plazas south side, planned
Some 23km southwest of Mexico City and for conversion into a cultural center. A
800m higher, it makes a fine escape from calm oasis north of the city center, the
the carbon monoxide and concrete. plaza is nonetheless haunted by echoes of
The name derives from the Ex-Convento its somber history.
del Santo Desierto de Nuestra Seora del Carmen Tlatelolco was founded by an Aztec
(admission $1; h 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), the 17th- faction in the 14th century on a separate
century former Carmelite monastery island in Lago de Texcoco and later
within the park. The Carmelites called conquered by the Aztecs of Tenochtitln,
their isolated monasteries deserts to who built a causeway to connect the two
commemorate Elijah, who lived as a recluse ceremonial centers. In pre-Hispanic times
in the desert near Mt Carmel. Leones may it had the largest market in the Valle de
stem from the presence of wild cats in the Mxico. Corts defeated Tlatelolcos de-
area, but more likely refers to Jos and fenders, led by Cuauhtmoc, in 1521. An
Manuel de Len, who once administered inscription about that battle in the plaza
the monasterys finances. translates: This was neither victory nor
The restored Ex-Convento has exhibition defeat. It was the sad birth of the mestizo
halls and a restaurant. Tours in Spanish people that is Mexico today.
(weekends only) are run by guides garbed in Tlatelolco is also a symbol of modern
cassock and sandals who explore the patios troubles. On October 2, 1968, 300 to 400
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student protesters were massacred by hugely aiding the acceptance of Catholi-


government troops on the eve of the Mexico cism by Mexicans. Despite the protests of
City Olympic Games (see the boxed text, some clergy, who saw the cult as a form of
p106). The area subsequently suffered some idolatry with the Virgin as a Christianized
of the worst damage of the 1985 earthquake version of the Aztec goddess Tonantzin (the
when apartment blocks collapsed, killing basilica was built over a pyramid dedicated
hundreds. to her), in 1737 the Virgin was officially
You can view the remains of Tlatelolcos declared the patron of Mexico after she
main pyramid-temple and other Aztec had extinguished an outbreak of plague in
buildings from a walkway around them. Mexico City. Two centuries later she was
Like the Templo Mayor of Tenochtitln, named celestial patron of Latin America
Tlatelolcos main temple was constructed and empress of the Americas. Today her
in stages, with each of seven temples super- image is seen throughout the country, and
imposed atop its predecessors. The double her shrines around the Cerro del Tepeyac
pyramid on view, one of the earliest stages, are the most revered in Mexico, attracting
has twin staircases which supposedly as- thousands of pilgrims daily and hundreds
cended to temples dedicated to Tlaloc and of thousands on the days leading up to her
Huitzilopochtli. Numerous calendric glyphs feast day, December 12 (see p151). Some
are carved into the outer walls. pilgrims travel the last meters to the shrine
Recognizing the religious significance of on their knees. In 2002 Pope John Paul II
the place, the Spanish erected the Templo de canonized Juan Diego.
Santiago here in 1609, using stones from the By the 1970s the old yellow-domed
Aztec structures as building materials. Just basilica, built around 1700, was swamped
inside the main (west) doors of this church by worshipers and was sinking slowly into
is the baptismal font of Juan Diego (see below). the soft subsoil. So the new Baslica de Nuestra
Outside the north wall of the church, a Seora de Guadalupe (mLa Villa-Basilica) was built
monument erected in 1993 honors the next door. Designed by Pedro Ramrez
victims of the 1968 massacre. Vzquez, architect of the Museo Nacional
Along Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas, de Antropologa, its a vast, round, open-
northbound Central Autobuses del Norte plan structure with a capacity for over
peseros and trolleybuses pass right by the 40,000 people. The image of the Virgin
Plaza de las Tres Culturas. hangs above and behind the main altar,
with moving walkways to bring visitors as
BASLICA DE GUADALUPE close as possible.
In December 1531, as the story goes, an The rear of the Antigua Baslica is now the
indigenous Christian convert named Juan Museo de la Baslica de Guadalupe (Map pp110-11;
Diego stood on Cerro del Tepeyac (Tepeyac % 5577-6022; admission $0.50; h 10am-6pm Tue-
Hill), site of an old Aztec shrine, and beheld Sun; mLa Villa-Basilica), with a fine collection
a beautiful lady dressed in a blue mantle of colonial art interpreting the miraculous
trimmed with gold. She sent him to tell vision.
the bishop, Juan de Zumrraga, that he had Stairs behind the Antigua Baslica climb
seen the Virgin Mary, and that she wanted about 100m to the hilltop Capilla del Cerrito
a shrine built in her honor. But the bishop (Hill Chapel), where Juan Diego had his
didnt believe him. Returning to the hill, vision, then lead down the east side of
Juan Diego had the vision several more the hill to the Parque de la Ofrenda with
times. After her fourth appearance, the gardens and waterfalls around a sculpted
ladys image was miraculously emblazoned scene of the apparition. Continue on down
on his cloak, causing the church to finally to the baroque Templo del Pocito, a circular
accept his story, and a cult developed structure with a trio of tiled cupolas, built
around the site. in 1787 to commemorate the miraculous
Over the centuries Nuestra Seora de appearance of a spring where the Virgen de
Guadalupe (named after a Spanish manifes- Guadalupe had stood. From there the route
tation of the Virgin whose cult was particu- leads back to the main plaza, re-entering
larly popular in early colonial times) came it beside the 17th-century Capilla de Indios
to receive credit for all manner of miracles, (Chapel of Indians).
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An easy way to reach the Baslica de Circling around the Palacio Nacional,
Guadalupe is to take the metro to La Villa- youre engulfed in the frenetic ambulante
Baslica station, then walk two blocks north activity of the zone; vendor stalls spread
along Calz de Guadalupe. You can reach for blocks in every direction. Return via
the same point on any Metro HidalgoLa Corregidora to the Zcalo. Crossing Pino
Villa pesero or bus heading northeast on Surez, note the sculpted scene on your
Paseo de la Reforma. To return downtown, left depicting the foundation of Tenochtitln
walk to Calz de los Misterios, a block west of (7). Stroll westward through the arcades
Calz de Guadalupe, and catch a southbound that front the pair of buildings housing the
Metro Hidalgo or Metro Chapultepec Federal District Department (8) and continue
pesero. along Calle 16 de Septiembre. On the
Zcalos southwest corner stands the Por-
WALKING TOUR firiato cupcake that is now the Gran Hotel
The historical hub of all Mexico, the Centro Ciudad de Mxico (9; p153). Turn right on La
Histrico is the most densely packed and Palma; to your left is the Centro Joyero (10)
fascinating part of the city and worthy of with scores of gold and jewelry vendors.
extended exploration. The obvious point of Take a left up Av Madero, admiring the
departure is the Zcalo. Take it all in from avenues panoply of majestic edifices. At
the terrace of the Hotel Majestic (1; p154) on the the next intersection stands the baroque
west side of the plaza, then investigate the sites Iglesia de la Profesa (11; %5521-8362; Isabel la
around it: the Catedral Metropolitana (2; p128) Catlica 21), headquarters of the Jesuits until
and Palacio Nacional (3; p128). their expulsion in 1767. Next in line are the
Next strike east along Calle Moneda. The Palacio de Iturbide (12; p132) and the Iglesia
first building on the left contains Mexicos de San Francisco (13; %5521-7731; Av Madero 7), a
first registered cantina, El Nivel (4; p166), The remnant of the vast Franciscan convent built
Level. Next door is the former Archbishops over the site of Moctezumas private zoo in
Palace (5; p130) and further down Moneda the 16th century and divvied up under the
is New Spains first mint, now home to the reform laws of the 1850s. The lions head at
Museo Nacional de las Culturas (6; p130). the southwest corner with Motolina marks
the level reached by the flood of 1629. Stop
for refreshments at Sanborns inside the
WALK FACTS beautiful Casa de Azulejos (14; p132).
Distance: 2.5km Proceed west to the Torre Latinoamericana

Duration: 3 to 5 hours (15; p132), where you could zoom up to


the observation deck for the big picture.

0 400 m
Plaza de la 0 0.2 miles

Concepcin
ntina
Rep de Arge

Av Hid Bellas Artes


hile
Allende

asil

algo Bellas
Rep de C

La Palma

Artes
Rep de Br


Alameda Tacuba Justo Sier
Allende ra
Condesa

Central
17
Mata

16
Templo
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Seminario

Mayor
Motolina

Av Jure Av Cinco
Correo M

z de Mayo
2
14 4
Dolores


Lpez

11 5
13 12 Av Mader
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Crdenas

15 Zcalo 6
10 1
Gante

Zcalo
(Plaza de la 3 La Soledad
lica

16 de Septiem
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Isabel la Cat
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Bolvar

La Palma

San Juan 8
7 Corregido
de Letrn Suprema Corte ra
Febrero

mbre

ayor
Eje Centr

de Justicia
Pino Surez

CENTRO
20 de Novie

Correo M

HISTRICO
Cinco de
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Back at ground level, conclude the tour by Museums often organize hands-on
taking a bench in the Alameda Central (16; activities for kids, and the Museo Nacional de
p134) or attending a chamber music recital Arte (p131) offers childrens art workshops
at the Palacio de Bellas Artes (17; p134). Saturday and Sunday.
Mexico Citys numerous parks and plazas
COURSES are usually buzzing with kids voices. Bosque
A number of institutes can help get your de Chapultepec is the obvious destination,
Spanish up to speed. with the Papalote Museo del Nio (p140), La
Alliant International University (Map pp118-19; Feria (p139) and the Chapultepec zoo (p138),
%5264-2187; www.alliantmexico.edu; lvaro Obregn not to mention several lakes with rowboat
110, Roma; mInsurgentes) Small private US university rentals. But also consider Condesas Parque
offering various Spanish courses and activities for travelers Mxico (p136), where Sunday is family ac-
and professionals ($120 to $160), plus degree programs tivities day. There are craft workshops and
with classes taught in English; also hosts guided cultural face painting and you can rent bicycles for a
tours and open lectures and seminars. spin around the lush grounds. Plaza Hidalgo
Centro de Cultura Mexicana Para Extranjeros, (p144) in Coyoacn is another fun-filled
Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana (Center of spot with balloons, street mimes and cot-
Mexican Culture for Foreigners; Map pp114-15; %5130- ton candy.
3386, toll-free from US or Canada %866-357-1671; In Xochimilco (p141), kids find the sen-
www.ucsj.edu.mx/CCME; Izazaga 92; mIsabel la Catlica) sation of riding the gondolas through the
Two programs are offered at this 17th-century ex-convent canals as magical as any theme park. Also in
turned progressive university (see p133): for beginners, a this part of town is the Museo Dolores Olmedo
four-week summer-intensive Spanish course with a history, Patio (p141), where peacocks, ducks and
art and culture component taught in English ($1500 a pack of pre-Hispanic dogs roam the gar-
including lunch prepared by the universitys gastronomy dens, and childrens shows are performed
students); and for those with some knowledge of Spanish, in the patio Saturday and Sunday at 1pm.
two- to three-month culture courses, taught in Spanish, Be sure to take the kids through a mar-
on an eclectic range of topics, from 20th-century Mexican ket for an eye-opening tour of local fruits,
poetry to gastronomic spaces of Mexico ($250 to $400). piatas and pigs heads.
Lodging can be arranged.
Centro de Enseanza Para Extranjeros (Foreigners QUIRKY MEXICO CITY
Teaching Center; %5622-2467; www.cepe.unam.mx; Anyone whos spent time in Mexico will
Universidad 3002, Ciudad Universitaria) The national understand why French poet Andr Bretn
university (see p143) offers six-week intensive classes called it the surrealist country par excel-
meeting three hours daily ($300). Students who already lence. Though its hard to pin it down,
speak Spanish may take courses on Mexican art and something strange lurks beneath the sur-
culture, which are taught in Spanish and run concurrently face of everyday life, popping up in the odd-
with the UNAM semester. est places.
El Cuadriltero (see p159) Owned by luchador (wrestler)
MEXICO CITY FOR CHILDREN Super Astro, it features a wall of wrestlers masks, many
As elsewhere in Mexico, kids take center donated by his ring pals and enemies.
stage in the capital. Many theaters stage Isla de las Muecas (Island of the Dolls) For a truly surreal
childrens plays and puppet shows on experience, head for Xochimilco (p141) and hire a trajinera
weekends and during school holidays, to the Isla de las Muecas. Whatever festive mood you may
including the Centro Cultural del Bosque have set out with will turn to dread approaching this remote
(p172) and the Centro Nacional de las Artes spot, where thousands of dolls, many partially decomposed
(p172). Cartoons are a staple at cinemas or missing limbs, hang from trees and rafters. The instal-
around town, including weekend matinees lation was created by recently deceased island resident
at the Cineteca Nacional (p170) and the hotel don Julin, who fished the playthings from the canals to
Condesa df (p157), though keep in mind mollify the spirit of a girl who had drowned nearby. The best
that childrens films are often dubbed departure point for the four-hour round-trip is the Cuemanco
in Spanish (unlike other films which are landing, near the Parque Ecolgico de Xochimilco.
subtitled). Consult the Nios sections of Mercado de Sonora (Map pp110-11; cnr Fray Servando
Tiempo Libre and Donde Ir magazines for & Rosales; mMerced) Has all the ingredients for Mexican
current programs. witchcraft. Aisles are crammed with stalls hawking things
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MEXICO CIT Y
like Lucky Hunchback potion, amulets, voodoo dolls and Tranva (%5512-1012, ext 0202; adult/child $3.25/2;
other esoterica. Located south of Mercado de la Merced, h10am-5pm) Runs a motorized version of a vintage
this is also the place for a limpia (spiritual cleansing), streetcar around a 45-minute circuit of the Centro
a ritual that involves clouds of incense and an herbal Histrico, with guides relating fascinating bits of lore
brushing. (in Spanish) along the way. On Thursday night theres a
Plaza Sex Capital (Map pp114-15; %5518-7337; Av special cantina tour ($9.50 including cocktail, reservation
16 de Septiembre 11; h11am-9pm; mSan Juan de required). Tours depart from Av Jurez by Bellas Artes.
Letrn) In a country not usually associated with libidinous Turibs Circuito Turstico (%5133-2488; www
expression, Plaza Sex Capital is on the cusp of naughty .turibus.com.mx in Spanish; adult/child 4-12 $11/6, 2-day
consumerism. Devoted entirely to the erotic urge, this new pass $15/8; h9am-9pm) Provides an overview of the
shopping mall features scores of sex shops, a 3-D cinema key areas. The total recorrido (route) lasts about three
and a sex museum, plus a food court with exotic dancers to hours, but you can get off and back on at any designated
spice up your salsa. stop along the way. Tickets are sold on board for the red
Virgen del Metro (Map pp114-15; cnr Paseo de la double-decker bus. Red banners mark stops along Reforma,
Reforma & Zarco; mHidalgo) Housed in a small tiled at the southwest corner of the Zcalo, and by the Auditorio
shrine is this evidence of a recent miracle. Metro riders Nacional, among other places. Buses pass every 30 minutes
in June 1997 noticed that a water leak in Hidalgo station or so. The fare includes headphones for recorded explan-
had formed a stain in the likeness of the Virgin of ations in English, French, Italian, German or Japanese.
Guadalupe. Following the discovery, thousands flocked
to witness the miraculous image. The stone section was FESTIVALS & EVENTS
removed and encased in glass at the Zarco entrance to Mexico City celebrates some unique local
metro Hidalgo. events in addition to all the major nation-
wide festivals (see p976), which often take
TOURS on a special flavor in the capital.
Recorridos Dominicales (%5662-8228, ext 526; www Festival de Mxico en el Centro Histrico (www.fch
.cultura.df.gob.mx/culturama/visitasguiadas; h10:45am- mexico.com; late March) The Centro Histricos plazas,
1pm Sun) The DF cultural ministry offers Sunday walking temples and theaters become venues for a slew of inter-
tours. Routes vary weekly with participants divided among national artists and performers.
10 guides. The website lists the weeks destination and Semana Santa (late March or early April) The most
departure point. evocative events of Holy Week are in the Iztapalapa district,

THE SAINT OF TEPITO


Garbed in a gold-trimmed white gown, wearing a wig of dark tresses and clutching the staff of the
Grim Reaper in one bony hand, a scale in the other, the skeletal figure bears an eerie resemblance
to Mrs Bates from the film Psycho. She is Santa Muerte (Saint Death) and she is the object of a
fast-growing cult in Mexico, particularly in the rough Barrio Tepito, where the principal altar (Map
pp110-11; mTepito) stands in a glass booth on Alfarera north of Mineros. Possibly rooted in pre-
Hispanic ritual, Santa Muerte has been linked to Mictlantecuhtli, the Mexican god of death.
The cult counts an estimated two million members in Mexico, who tend to come from societys
lower economic echelons. On the first day of each month, as many as 6000 devotees line up at
the Tepito altar, which is surrounded by candles, cigarettes, jewelry and various relics that can
be purchased nearby.
The saints popularity is feared to be rivaling that of the Virgin of Guadalupe, and for that
very reason the Roman Catholic Church has harshly denounced the cult and sought to have its
official status removed.
Calling itself the Traditional Catholic Mex-USA Church, the cross-border sect has 15 temples
in Los Angeles and one in Mexico City. The Santuario Nacional de la Santa Muerte (National
Sanctuary of Saint Death; (Map pp110-11; %5702-8607; Bravo 35; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun;
mMorelos), in the Morelos neighborhood near Tepito, sees around 90 worshipers a day. Exor-
cisms are held Thursday at noon and 6pm.
While the altar and sanctuary are open to the public, travelers who choose to visit either site
should be aware that the Tepito neighborhood is notorious among Mexicans as a scene of criminal
activity and that church members may not welcome the scrutiny of curious onlookers.
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9km southeast of the Zcalo, where more than 150 locals the word garage on the sign generally cater
act out a realistic Passion Play. The most emotive scenes to short-term tryst-seeking guests, but these
begin at noon on Good Friday, when Christ is sentenced, love motels can be good-value options.
beaten and crowned with real thorns. He then carries his Top-end hotel rooms run from $85 up
cross up Cerro de la Estrella, where he is crucified. to the sky and range from comfortable me-
Grito de la Independencia (September 15) Thousands dium-sized, tourist-oriented hotels to mod-
gather in the Zcalo on the eve of Independence Day ern luxury high-rises for business travelers.
to hear the Mexican presidents version of the Grito de Top-end places are most densely concen-
Dolores (Cry of Dolores), Hidalgos famous call to rebellion trated in the Zona Rosa and Polanco.
against the Spanish in 1810, from the central balcony
of the Palacio Nacional at 11pm. Afterwards, theres a Centro Histrico
spectacular fireworks display over the cathedral. Despite ongoing investment and improve-
Da de Muertos (November 2) In the lead-up to Day ments in the Historic Center, accommoda-
of the Dead, elaborate ofrendas (offerings) show up tions remain surprisingly affordable. Most
everywhere from public markets to metro stations. Some of the suitable places are on Av 5 de Mayo
of the best are at Anahuacalli (p146) and the Museo and the streets to its north and south.
Dolores Olmedo Patio (p141), while a contest for the most
creative ofrenda is held at the Zcalo. Major vigils take BUDGET
place in the Panten Civil de Dolores cemetery, west of Hostel Catedral (Map pp114-15; % 5518-1726;
Bosque de Chapultepec; and at San Andres Mixquic, in the www.hostelcatedral.com; Repblica de Guatemala 4; dm
extreme southeast of the Distrito Federal. HI members/nonmembers $10/13, r incl breakfast $33;
Fiesta de Santa Cecilia (November 22) The patron m Zcalo; ni ) Backpacker central in
saint of musicians is honored with special fervor at Plaza Mexico City, the capitals only HI affiliate
Garibaldi (Map pp11415). is abuzz with a global rainbow of young
Da de Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe (December 12) travelers. Every facility you might need is
At the Baslica de Guadalupe (p148), the Day of Our here, the location couldnt be more central
Lady of Guadalupe caps 10 days of festivities honoring and the place is cordially managed. Off the
Mexicos religious patron. On December 11 and 12, groups guest kitchen, a delightful deck overlooks
of indigenous dancers and musicians from across Mexico the cathedral.
perform on the basilicas broad plaza in uninterrupted Hotel Isabel (Map pp114-15; %5518-1213; www
succession. The numbers of pilgrims reach the millions by .hotel-isabel.com.mx; Isabel la Catlica 63; s/d $11.50/16,
December 12, when religious services go on in the basilica s/d/tr with private bathroom $18/25/33; m Isabel
almost around the clock. la Catlica; i ) The Isabel is a long-time
budget-travelers favorite, and its easy to
SLEEPING see why. Just a few blocks from the Zcalo,
The range of places to stay is enormous, it offers large, well-scrubbed rooms with
from basic guesthouses to top-flight hotels. old but sturdy furniture, high ceilings and
Accommodations are described here first great balconies, plus a hostel-like social
by neighborhood, then by price range. scene.
In general, the best moderately priced Hostal Virreyes (Map pp114-15; % 5521-4180;
rooms are in the areas west of the Zcalo, www.hostalvirreyes.com.mx; Izazaga 8; dm $10, r $23;
near the Alameda Central and Plaza de la mSalto del Agua; i) Once a prestigious hotel,
Repblica. These are sometimes in charm- the Virreyes has quite naturally morphed
ing old colonial style with high ceilings and into a hostelstudent residence. Dorms are
attractive balconies. Several hostels geared spacious, facilities user-friendly, and the
to international budget travelers provide lobby lounge hosts hip events. An ISIC card
another economical option. will get you a 10% discount.
Midrange accommodations provide Hotel Rioja (Map pp114-15; %5521-8333; Av 5 de
comfortable, if sometimes small, rooms in Mayo 45; s/d from $18/20; mAllende) A superior
multistorey buildings with restaurants and value, the Rioja is a well-maintained lodging
bars. They often trade character for mod- in the middle of everything. Unlike at many
ern convenience. Hotels in this category are hotels in this category, the owners have
concentrated in the Plaza de la Repblica invested in renovations, and the quality of
and Roma neighborhoods, though theyre its facilities matches those of places at twice
found all over town. Note that places with the price.
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Hostel Amigo (Map pp114-15; %5512-3464; www MIDRANGE
.hostelamigo.com; Isabel la Catlica 61A; dm $10, r incl Hotel Catedral (Map pp114-15; %5518-5232; www
breakfast $30; mIsabel la Catlica; i) This brand- .hotelcatedral.com; Donceles 95; s/d/tr from $38/52/68;
new hostel occupies a lovingly preserved mZcalo; pi) Though short on colonial
250-year-old former nuns residence. The charm, this comfortable lodging has clearly
atmosphere is casual, with cozy common considered its location, directly behind the
areas, and if you like to party youll find Metropolitan Cathedral. Even if you get
plenty of amigos and amigas who share an interior room, you can lounge on the
your interest. rooftop terraces, with impressive cityscapes
Hostal Moneda (Map pp114-15; %5522-5821, 800- in all directions.
221-72-65; www.hostalmoneda.com.mx; Moneda 8; dm Hotel Gillow (Map pp114-15; %5518-1440; www
$13, r incl breakfast $27; mZcalo; ni) Sitting .hotelgillow.com; Isabel la Catlica 17; s/d/tr from $39/51/61;
on one of the citys most exuberant and mAllende; i) A historic building with stand-
historic streets, the Moneda is an altogether ard midrange facilities, the Gillow boasts
more modest affair than the nearby Hostel old-fashioned service and spacious carpeted
Catedral, but it has been established longer, rooms around a sunlit central courtyard. For
and has its faithful fans. Chief among its views, request a Av 5 de Mayo or Isabel la
assets are the well-informed, bilingual staff, Catlica unit.
environmentally friendly water and en- Tulip Inn Ritz (Map pp114-15; %5130-0160, 800-
ergy systems, and a terrific multi-purpose 201-52-56; www.tulipinnritzmexico.com; Madero 30; r
rooftop. There are also laundry facilities $75; mBellas Artes; ni) Popular with Euro
and an airport pick-up service. groups on tour who appreciate its prime
Hotel Azores (Map pp114-15; %5521-5220; www location, simptico staff and modern
.hotelazores.com; Repblica de Brasil 25; s/d from $24/28; conveniences, the 70-year-old Ritz was
mZcalo; p) Just off the fascinating Plaza recently spruced up by new overseers from
Santo Domingo, the uncharacteristically Holland. About half of the 117 large rooms
modern Azores boasts a cheerily designed overlook Madero or Bolvar, while the rest
and scrupulously maintained interior. Of face a tranquil patio.
the 65 rooms, just eight overlook the street Hotel Capitol (Map pp114-15; % 5512-0460;
through picture windows. Repblica de Uruguay 12; s/d $30/37; mSan Juan de Letrn;
Hotel Washington (Map pp114-15; %5512-3502; i) Opposite the computer shopping center,
Av 5 de Mayo 54; s/d $19/24; mAllende) If youre this friendly establishment offers plain
sticking to a budget but dont want to rooms around a central hall with fountain.
sacrifice comfort, and prefer to be right in Romantically inclined guests often opt for
the middle of things, the Washington will the Jacuzzi-equipped suites.
do nicely, and youll likely be amid similar-
minded travelers. TOP END
Hotel Zamora (Map pp114-15; % 5512-8245; Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mxico (Map pp114-15; %1083-
Av 5 de Mayo 50; s/d $10.50/14, with private bathroom 7700; reservaciones@granhotelciudaddemexico.com.mx;
$18/21; mAllende) Absolutely no frills here, Av 16 de Septiembre 82; s/d $228/269; m Zcalo;
but its clean, friendly and cheap, with hot pai) The Gran Hotel flaunts the French
showers and a safe. Ask for a front room: art-nouveau style of the pre-revolutionary
the balconies over Av 5 de Mayo are worth era. Crowned high overhead by a stained-
the price alone. glass canopy crafted by Tiffany in 1908,
Hotel Jurez (Map pp114-15; % 5512-6929; the vast atrium is a fin-de-sicle fantasy
1a Callejn de 5 de Mayo 17; s/d $15/19; mAllende) of curved balconies, original wrought-iron
Nestled in an L-shaped alley, the Jurez elevators and chirping birds in zoo-
is another incredibly cheap but perfectly sized cages. Rooms do not disappoint in
good choice in the thick of things, though comparison.
just out-of-the-way enough to ensure a Holiday Inn Zcalo (Map pp114-15; %5130-5130,
tranquilo nights sleep. True, its feng shui 800-009-99-00; www.holidayinnzocalo.com.mx; Av 5 de Mayo
may need an overhaul, but the shoestring 61; r $100, ste from $147; mZcalo; pnai) The
travelers who regularly check in here dont northernmost of three upper-echelon hotels
seem to mind. Try and get a balcony onto facing the Zcalo, the Holiday Inn seems
the main street. the least pretentious, eschewing colonial
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trimmings for contemporary comfort. And for pilgrims of the Augustinian order, this
its rooftop-terrace restaurant ranks with Best Western property has a long history of
those of its neighbors. sheltering travelers, with rooms encircling
Hotel Majestic (Map pp114-15; % 5521-8600; a lovely late-18th-century patio. If you
www.hotelmajestic.com.mx; Madero 73; r $130, ste from dont mind the price tag, staying here
$175; mZcalo; pni) This Best Western will give you a genuine taste of colonial
franchise has a lot going for it, including an Mexico.
attractive colonial interior, an unbeatable
location and perhaps the most panoramic Plaza de la Repblica & Around
terrace restaurant on the Zcalo. Rooms, Though less convenient, this mainly
however, are less fabulous than youd ex- residential area a few blocks west of the
pect at these prices. Alameda is relatively tranquil and boasts a
number of reasonably priced accommoda-
Alameda Central & Around tions options.
BUDGET
Hotel Toledo (Map pp114-15; %5521-3249; Lpez BUDGET
22; s/d $17/25; mSan Juan de Letrn) The area is Casa de los Amigos (Map pp114-15; %5705-0521;
in transition, but this older establishment www.casadelosamigos.org; Mariscal 132; dm $8.50, s/d
remains rooted in another era. Though with shared bathroom $12/24; mRevolucin; ni)
teetering on the edge of divedom, the place Not technically a hostel, the Quaker-run
is cozy enough and some may appreciate its Casa is primarily a residence for NGOs,
retro style. researchers and others seeking social
change, but welcomes walk-in travelers. It
MIDRANGE generally attracts a more serious individual
Hotel Monte Real (Map pp114-15; %5518-1149; www than the average hostel and thus has a more
.hotelmontereal.com.mx; Revillagigedo 23; s/d $48/54; low-key atmosphere. Meditation sessions,
mJurez; pi) This modern option, across discussions with community members
the way from the new Museo de Artes and Spanish conversation are available to
Populares, gets high marks for its eager-to- guests, who may volunteer to help run the
please staff and well-maintained facilities. Casa for a reduced rate. A hearty breakfast
Similarly unremarkable but perfectly ($1.50) is served Monday to Friday in the
comfortable places with decent restaurants ground-floor dining room. Theres a two-
abound in this zone. night minimum stay.
Hotel Fleming (Map pp114-15; %5510-4530;
www.hotelfleming.com.mx; Revillagigedo 35; s/d/tr
$30/36/41; mJurez; p) THE AUTHORS CHOICE
Hotel Marlowe (Map pp114-15; %5521-9540; www Mexico City Hostel (Map pp114-15; %5512-
.hotelmarlowe.com.mx in Spanish; Independencia 17; 3666; www.mexicocityhostel.com; Repblica
s/d/tr $40/47/62; mSan Juan de Letrn; pai) de Brasil 8; dm $13, private r per person $18;
mAllende; i) Amid a slew of hostel op-
TOP-END tions in the Centro, this just-unwrapped
Hotel Sheraton Centro Histrico (Map pp114-15; addition stands out. Steps from the Zcalo,
%5130-5252, 800-470-70-70; www.sheratonmexico.com; the solid colonial structure has been art-
Jurez 70; r from $350; mHidalgo; pnais) A fully restored, with original wood beams
cornerstone in the downtown redevelopment and stone walls as a backdrop for modern
project, the sleek Sheraton towers above energy-efficient facilities. An enormous
quaint Alameda Central. Most travelers are mural graces the sunlit entry hall, with
here on business, but anyone desiring a dose stone arches framing passages to cafeteria
of comfort and sublime cityscapes should and TV rooms on the upper levels. In the
be more than satisfied. At the time of writing spacious dorms, three or four sturdy bunk
a huge spa was being developed, with saunas, beds stand on terracotta floors. Immaculate
massage clinic and fitness center. bathrooms trimmed with azulejo tile amply
Hotel de Corts (Map pp114-15; % 5518-2181, serve around 100 occupants. Rates include
800-509-23-40; www.hoteldecortes.com.mx; Hidalgo 85; a buffet breakfast.
s/d $152/217; mHidalgo; ni) Once a hospice
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Hotel Oxford (Map pp114-15; % 5566-0500; Hotel Jena (Map pp114-15; % 5097-0277; Tern
Mariscal 67; s/d $10.50/17; mRevolucin) Some find 12; s/d/tr $64/74/95; m Hidalgo; pai ) Not
a special allure in this art-deco remnant as tall as it looks (the imposing black
of 1940s Mexico City which sits on the tower is strictly for show), the Jenas huge
delightful Plaza Buenavista behind the rooms are among the most luxurious in
Museo de San Carlos. Others just call it this range, and its just a block and a half
a dive. If its seedy charm youre after, the from Reforma.
Oxfords bar will do nicely, and theyll send Hotel Prim (Map pp114-15; % 5592-4600;
up drinks until 4am. www.hotelprim.com; Versalles 46; s/d $54/62, ste $77;
Also worth checking is: mCuauhtmoc; pi) The hulking Prim does
Hotel Mallorca (Map pp114-15; %5566-4833; Serapio not present an attractive facade, but its
Rendn 119; s/d from $23/27; mSan Cosme; p) decent value and a quick hike from Reforma,
Doubles come in two sizes. the Zona Rosa or Colonia Roma. The junior
suites are the best deal, with cozy living
MIDRANGE rooms, huge beds and two bathrooms.
Almost all of the following places have The following two lodgings are along
convenient on-site restaurants serving Serapio Rendn, just above the Jardn del
international cuisine. Arte. What they lack in character they make
Palace Hotel (Map pp114-15; % 5566-2400; up for in convenience, comfort and price.
Ramrez 7; s/d $32/48; m Revolucin; p ) The Hotel Compostela (Map pp114-15; %5566-0733;
gregarious Asturians who run the Palace Sullivan 35; traditional s/d $26/32, modern $35/40;
have renovated massively, highlighting the mSan Cosme; p) Friendliest of the two; modern
spacious rooms with appealing Mexican rooms are more luxurious, with bigger bathrooms.
tones. Broad balconies give terrific views Hotel Astor (Map pp114-15; %5148-2644; hotel.astor@
down palm-lined Ramrez to the Plaza de mexico.com; Antonio Caso 83; s/d $35/45; mSan Cosme;
la Revolucin. Cash-paying guests get sub- pai)
stantial discounts.
Hotel Sevilla (Map pp114-15; %5566-1866; www TOP END
.sevilla.com.mx; Serapio Rendn 124; s/d $25/35, modern Hotel Imperial (Map pp114-15; %5705-4911, 800-
s/d $41/51; mRevolucin; pai) Opposite 714-29-09; Paseo de la Reforma 64; r $152; mHidalgo;
the Jardn del Arte this oft-recommended ai) The century-old Imperial is an im-
business hotel is divided into traditional mediately recognizable cake wedge of a
and modern sections. Rooms in the lat- building, with a gold cupola crowning its
ter are air-conditioned with some facing front turret. The dictator Porfirio Daz un-
the Monumento a la Madre (Monument to wrapped this frenchified confection in 1904,
Motherhood). and it remains a refreshingly stylish structure
Hotel New York (Map pp114-15; % 5566-9700; alongside the monolithic chain hotels in the
dison 45; s/d $29/48; m Revolucin; p ) A few vicinity of the Columbus traffic circle. Un-
blocks northeast of Plaza de la Repblica, fortunately, room decor fails to match the
this is an upscale option in a zone crammed buildings Porfiriato splendor.
with cut-rate hotels. Rates include breakfast Hotel Sevilla Palace (Map pp114-15; %5566-
and four Sky channels. 8877, 800-700-70-70; www.sevillapalace.com.mx; Paseo
Hotel Casa Blanca (Map pp114-15; %5096-4500; de la Reforma 105; r $115, ste from $165; mRevolucin;
www.hotel-casablanca.com.mx; Lafragua 7; s/d $64/81; pnis) While its neither quaint nor
mJurez; pnais) Heres a five-star cutting edge, this 400-room monolith is
hotel with all the trimmings for much less extremely comfortable and well-run with
than the chains. A sexy new lobby bar jazzes unusually cordial service, as well as a pretty
up the otherwise 60s ambience, with a pink amazing rooftop pool deck.
color scheme in the 270 rooms. Bonus: a
rooftop pool with adjacent lounge. Zona Rosa & Around
Hotel Mayaland (Map pp114-15; %5566-6066; Accommodations right in the glitzy Pink
www.hotelmayaland.com; Antonio Caso 23; s/d $36/47; Zone are expensive, but a couple of popular
mJurez; pi) A business-oriented hotel midrange places are nearby (book ahead).
on a rather sterile street, this has well- Many of the top-end options offer dis-
maintained facilities with a Maya motif. counts for walk-ins.
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BUDGET Mexican late-19th-century structure, with


Hostal San Sebastin (Map pp118-19; %5208-6528; aristocratically furnished rooms facing a
sansebastianhostal@hotmail.com; Estolcomo 29; dm $11, beautifully landscaped central courtyard.
s/d with shared bathroom $22/32; mInsurgentes; i) Sheraton Mara Isabel Hotel (Map pp118-19;
Appropriately for the area, this is a gay- % 5242-5555, in the US % 800-598-1753; www
oriented hostel, though any open-minded .sheraton.com/mariaisabel; Paseo de la Reforma 325; r from
traveler is welcome. There are plenty of $299; m Insurgentes; pnais ) Over-
good reasons to stay here, whatever your looking the Independence monument and
orientation, among them a great location, next door to the US embassy, the Sheratons
stylish decor and well-maintained facilities. two towers have accommodated business-
On weekends, the hostels Mitomana Caf people, diplomats and journalists for over
turns into a cabaret. three decades. Among its varied attractions
Villa H (Map pp118-19; %5208-5880; www.geo are a rooftop pool, fitness center, Starbucks
cities.com/villahmx; Gnova 30-H; dm $12, s/d incl branch and nightly mariachis. About half of
breakfast $23/32; mInsurgentes; i) Casual but the 755 rooms were redone in 2004.
fastidiously maintained, this new hostel
in a cul-de-sac off party corridor Gnova Condesa & Roma
should appeal to fun-loving travelers and BUDGET
neatness freaks alike. The environment is Hostel Home (Map pp118-19; %5511-1683; www
gay-friendly but open to all. .hostelhome.com.mx; Tabasco 303; dm student/nonstudent
$9.50/10; mInsurgentes; i) Housed in a fine
MIDRANGE Porfiriato-era building, this small (20-bed)
Casa Gonzlez (Map pp118-19; %5514-3302; casa hostel is on narrow tree-lined Calle Tabasco, a
.gonzalez@prodigy.net.mx; Ro Sena 69; s/d from $32/41; tranquil gateway to the Roma neighborhood.
mInsurgentes; i) A family-run operation for Managed by youthful, easygoing staff, the
nearly a century, the Casa is a perennial Home is a good place to meet other travelers
hit with mature travelers. While rooms and find out whats going on. Catch metrobus
are modest, the general ambience is lvaro Obregn.
extraordinarily tranquilo. Grounds are Hotel Embassy (Map pp118-19; % 5208-0859;
amply endowed with gardens and plants, Puebla 115; s/d/tr $25/30/33; m Insurgentes; p )
and a big breakfast is served on old china Despite a charmless location, this well-
in the dining room. maintained modern lodging is conven-
Hotel Mara Cristina (Map pp118-19; %5703- iently placed a couple of blocks from the
1212; Ro Lerma 31; s/d from $61/67; mInsurgentes or metro, and right next door to the excellent
Chilpancingo; pi ) Guests appreciate the Cantina Covadonga (see p169).
grandeur and tranquility of this facsimile
of an Andalusian estate, though most of the MIDRANGE
colonial charm has been poured into the Casa de la Condesa (Map pp118-19; %5574-3186;
lobby lounge and adjacent gardens rather reservations@extendedstaymexico.com; Plaza Luis Cabrera
than the rooms. 16; s/ste $43/80; mInsurgentes; i) Right on the
Hotel Bristol (Map pp118-19; % 5208-1717; delightful Plaza Luis Cabrera, the Casa makes
www.hotelbristol.com.mx; Plaza Necaxa 17; s/d/ste from a tranquil base for visitors on an extended
$52/60/69; mChilpancingo; pnai) A good- stay, offering suites that are essentially
value option in the pleasant but central studio apartments with kitchens.
Cuauhtmoc neighborhood, the Bristol caters Hotel Miln (Map pp118-19; %5584-0222; www
primarily to business travelers, offering qual- .hotelmilan.com.mx; lvaro Obregn 94; s/d $33/40;
ity carpet, a soothing color scheme and an mInsurgentes; pi) The Miln makes a good
above-average restaurant. place to land in Mexico City. Though lack-
ing in character, its comfortable and well
TOP END maintained and sits on the main corridor of
Four Seasons Hotel (Map pp118-19; %5230-1818; bohemian Colonia Roma.
www.fourseasons.com/mexico; Paseo de la Reforma 500; Hotel Park Villa (Map pp118-19; %5515-5245;
r $363-480; mChapultepec; pnais) One www.hotelparkvilla.com.mx; General Gmez Pedraza 68;
of the citys most elegant lodgings, the Four s/d $48/64; mJuanacatln; p) The Park Villa
Seasons was designed to resemble a French- is the only lodging on the Condesa side of
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MEXICO CIT Y
Bosque de Chapultepec. Just across from the r $215; mAuditorio or Chapultepec; pnais)
vast swath of greenery, the hotel is in a self- With over 700 rooms and covering 33,000
contained compound with its own peaceful sq meters of grounds, the Camino Real is a
garden restaurant and a tiny zoo containing monumental endeavor. Its also a national
a couple of sleepy lions. architectural landmark, boldly designed by
Hotel Roosevelt (Map pp118-19; %5208-6813; Mexican Ricardo Legorreta.
www.hotelroosevelt.com.mx; Insurgentes Sur 287; s/d/ste Hbita Hotel (Map pp120-1; %5282-3100; www
$36/51/59; mInsurgentes; pi) On the eastern .hotelhabita.com; Presidente Masaryk 201; s/d/ste
edge of Condesa, this functional hotel is $228/310/369; mPolanco; pnais) Mex-
the only midpriced option near the modish ican architect Enrique Norten turned a
nightlife zone. Also within easy reach of the functional apartment building into one
Cuban club district, it should appeal to noc- of the citys top boutique hotels. Decor in
turnally inclined travelers. Catch metrobus the 36 rooms is boldly minimal, and the
lvaro Obregn. sleek rooftop bar, rea, is Polancos hottest
Hotel Parque Ensenada (Map pp118-19; %5208- nightspot (see p169).
0052; www.hotelensenada.com.mx; lvaro Obregn 13; s/d W Mexico City Hotel (Map pp120-1; %9138-1800;
from $54/58; mCuauhtmoc; ai) Though ac- www.whotels.com; Campos Elseos 252; r $397; mAuditorio;
commodations here are of the standard-issue pnais) One of the four sentinels
business-class variety, travelers may find it a opposite the Auditorio Nacional, Latin
reassuringly cushy transition stage coming Americas first W is a 25-floor business hotel
from or going back to their native land. thats determined to break away from the
Hotel Puebla (Map pp118-19; %5525-3689; www stodginess of its neighbors.
.hotelpuebla.com; Puebla 36; s/d/ste $31/35/36; mCuauh-
tmoc; p) Though not exactly innovative in Southern Districts
design, the Puebla, on the eastern edge of Hostal Cactus (Map pp110-11; %5530-0839; hostal
Colonia Roma, is squeaky clean, cordially cactus@yahoo.com; La Quemada 76; dm $10; mEtiopia)
managed and extremely quiet. This homey hostel is in Colonia Narvarte,
a pleasant residential zone that is well con-
TOP END nected to both the Centro and Coyoacn.
La Casona (Map pp118-19; % 5286-3001; www Staying here, youre essentially sharing a
.hotellacasona.com.mx; Durango 280; r incl breakfast $150; home with a few dozen other travelers in a
mSevilla; a) This stately mansion was re- very casual setting.
stored to its early-20th-century splendor to El Cenote Azul (Map pp110-11; %5554-8730; www
become one of the capitals most distinctive .elcenoteazul.com; Alfonso Pruneda 24; dm $9; mCopilco)
boutique hotels. Each of the 29 rooms has This small, laid-back hostel is one of the only
been uniquely appointed to bring out its accommodations near the UNAM campus.
original charm. Conditions are backpacker basic but every-
Condesa df (Map pp118-19; %5241-2600; www thing is kept quite clean and comfortable.
.condesadf.com; Veracruz 102; r from $182; mChapultepec;
aic) Opened in 2005, this c 1920s Airport
structure has been quirkily made over in a Camino Real Aeropuerto (Map pp110-11;%5227-7200;
style that perfectly reflects the hip new Con- www.caminoreal.com/aeropuerto; Puerto Mxico 80; r $210;
desa. Every detail has been specially crafted, pac) For early-morning departures,
from the peanut-shaped coffee tables to the the hotel is conveniently connected by sky-
globular lampshades over the bar, already tunnel to the airports domestic terminal.
one of Condesas trendiest nightspots (see
the boxed text, p168). EATING
The capital offers eateries for all tastes
Polanco and budgets, from taco stalls to exclusive
North of Bosque de Chapultepec, this area restaurants. Some of the best places are
has some of the best business accommoda- cheap; some of the more expensive ones are
tions and a couple of excellent boutique well worth the extra money.
hotels. The center is a good area to sample chiles
Camino Real Mxico (Map pp120-1; % 5263- en nogada (large, mild poblano chilies stuffed
8888; www.caminoreal.com; Calz Mariano Escobedo 700; with a ground-meat filling containing fruits,
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nuts and spices, and covered with a sauce of Tacos de Canasta Chucho (Map pp114-15; %5521-
cream, cheese and walnuts), mole poblano 0280; Av 5 de Mayo 17A; tacos $0.35; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri,
(Puebla-style mole; a traditional stew) or 8am-5pm Sat; mAllende) These bite-sized tacos
other traditional Mexican fare, while Con- are filled with things like refried beans,
desa, Polanco and Roma offer plenty of chicharrn and mole (just the sauce), and
European, Asian and Argentine restaurants arranged in a big basket. A couple of pails
(see the boxed text, p165). contain the garnishes: spicy guacamole and
Those on a budget will find literally marinated carrot chunks and chilies.
thousands of restaurants and holes-in-the-
wall serving a comida corrida (set lunch) BUDGET
for as little as $3. Market buildings are Restaurante Dzib (Map pp114-15; % 5709-9402;
good places to look for these while tianguis Regina 54-C; set lunch $2.75; h 8am-6pm Mon-Sat;
(weekly street markets) customarily have m Isabel la Catlica) This deceptively large
an eating section offering tacos, barbacoa dining hall must be the ultimate comida
(Mexican-style barbecue) and quesadillas corrida joint, serving toothsome four-
(cheese folded between tortillas and fried or course lunches. Friday is seafood day.
grilled). See also the boxed text, opposite. Vegetariano Madero (Map pp114-15; % 5521-
Certain items can be found all over town. 6880; Madero 56; 4-course lunches $4; h 8am-7pm;
In the evening tamales are delivered by mAllende; v) Despite the austere entrance,
bicycle, their arrival heralded by an eerie theres a lively restaurant upstairs where a
moan through a cheap speaker. Youll know pianist plinks out old favorites. The meatless
the camote (sweet potato) man is coming menu includes tasty variations on Mexican
by the ear-splitting steam whistle emitting standards. Balcony seating lets you observe
from his cart, heard for blocks around. The the street activity.
same vendor offers delicious baked plan- Restaurante Vegetariano (Map pp114-15; %5521-
tains, laced with cream on request. 1895; Mata 13; h8am-10pm; mAllende) This more
The city is also peppered with modern modern, street-level branch of Vegetariano
chain restaurants whose predictable menus Madero is near the main restaurant.
make a sound, if unexciting, fallback. Caf El Popular (Map pp114-15; %5518-6081; Av
Branches of VIPS, Sanborns, Wings and 5 de Mayo 52; breakfast & set lunches $2.50-4; h24hr;
California restaurants serve US-style coffee- mAllende) An amazing number of people
shop fare and Mexican standards. Inter- squeeze into this tiny split-level caf. Fresh
national chains, from KFC to Starbucks, pastries and good combination breakfasts
are well represented, too. (fruit, eggs, frijoles beans and coffee) are
the main attractions. Caf con leche (coffee
Centro Histrico with milk; $1) is served chino style (ie you
Perhaps the quintessential Mexico City specify the strength).
experience is dining or sipping cocktails Caf La Blanca (Map pp114-15; %5510-9260; Av 5 de
overlooking the vast Zcalo with the Mayo 40; 3-course lunch $4.75; mAllende) White-coated
Mexican tricolor waving proudly over the waiters and orange upholstery set the tone
scene. The three upscale hotels overlook- for this 1960s relic offering hearty breakfasts
ing the plaza offer abundant buffet break- and daily lunch specials. Sit at the U-shaped
fasts most days, although the food isnt counter or grab a table by the window for
as spectacular as the vista. If its not too people-watching over a cappuccino ($1.75).
busy you can enjoy the view for the price Be sure to sample the tamales de nata sweet
of a drink. with a hint of anise.

QUICK EATS MIDRANGE & TOP END


Taquera Beatriz (Map pp114-15; tacos $1; h9am-5pm; Half the fun of eating in the Centro
mSan Juan de Letrn) This unassuming hole-in- Histrico is basking in the atmosphere of
the-wall, opposite Uruguay 31, has served some extraordinary colonial buildings.
outstanding tacos for nearly a century. Rajas Los Girasoles (Map pp114-15; %5510-0630; Tacuba
(sliced peppers), mole, chicharrn (fried pork 8A; starters from $3, main courses $8.50-13; h1pm-
skins) in salsa and other items are skillfully midnight Tue-Sat, 1-9pm Sun & Mon; mAllende; p) Be-
stuffed into handmade tortillas. side the Museo Nacional de Arte, this fine
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restaurant specializes in alta cocina mexicana. of tequila ($3 to $10 a shot) are served in
The menu boasts an encyclopedic range of the downstairs salons.
Mexican fare, from pre-Hispanic (ant larvae), El Cuadriltero (Map pp114-15; %5521-3060; Luis
to colonial (turkey in tamarind mole), to in- Moya 73; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat; mJurez) Not just
novative (snapper fillet in rose-hip salsa). wrestlers, but also ordinary denizens of the
La Casa de las Sirenas (Map pp114-15; %5704- Centro frequent this shrine to lucha libre,
3225; Repblica de Guatemala 32; main courses $12-15, famous for its gigantic tortas, versions of
desserts $4; h1-6pm Mon, 1-11pm Tue-Fri, 8am-11pm which are displayed at the entrance. If you
Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; mZcalo) Ensconced in a 17th- manage to consume a 1.3kg cholesterol-
century home behind the cathedral, this packed Torta Gladiador in 15 minutes,
atmospheric restaurant serves creatively its free.
prepared and attractively presented Mexican La Fonda del Hotentote (Map pp114-15; %5522-
cuisine. Dinner on the terrace might start 1025; Las Cruces 40-3; dishes $8-12; hlunch Sun-Fri;
with mushrooms sauted in chipotle (a type mPino Surez) In the wholesale-paper district
of chili), followed by a sesame sea bass, then southeast of the Palacio Nacional, this
corn flan. And to drink? Some 180 varieties lunchtime-only comedor (eating place)

MARKET FARE
Some of the best eating in Mexico City is not found in any restaurant but in the big covered
mercados and tianguis (weekly street markets).
 Mercado San Camilito (Map pp114-15; Plaza Garibaldi; pozole $3.75; h24hr; mGaribaldi) The block-
long building contains over 70 kitchens serving Jalisco-style pozole, a broth brimming with
hominy kernels and pork, served with garnishes like radishes and oregano. (Specify maciza if
pig noses and ears fail to excite you.) Also served are birria, a soulful goat stew, and tepache,
a fermented pineapple drink.
 Mercado Medelln (Map pp118-19; Coahuila, btwn Medelln & Monterrey; mChilpancingo) Features
an extensive eating area with cheap and filling comidas corridas, as well as several excellent
seafood restaurants.
 Parrillada Bariloche (Map pp118-19; Bazar de Oro; hWed, Sat & Sun; mInsurgentes) This stall along
the southern aisle of an upscale street market grills some of the least-expensive Uruguayan-
style steaks and sausages in town, along with excellent side salads. Reach it be metrobus
Durango.
 Caldos de Gallina Vale (Map pp118-19; Mercado Cuauhtmoc, Av Cuauhtmoc; mCuauhtmoc) A giant
pot of chicken broth bubbles away at this simple stall on the east side of the rustic market on
the northeastern edge of Colonia Jurez. The friendly proprietors add chicken pieces, giblets
and/or hard-boiled eggs to your broth, which you can garnish with some seriously spicy
salsas.
 Tianguis de Pachuca (Map pp118-19; Agustn Melgar; h10am-4pm Tue; mChapultepec) The food
court at the north end of the weekly Condesa street market offers many tempting options,
but none so mouthwatering as the mixiotes, steamed packets of seasoned mutton, whose
contents may be rolled into thick tortillas and garnished with fiery chiles de manzana (very
hot, yellow chili peppers).
 Mercado de Antojitos (Map p123; Higuera, cnr Plaza Hidalgo & Caballo Calco; mCoyoacn) Near
Coyoacns main plaza, this busy spot has all kinds of snacks, including deep-fried quesadillas,
pozole, esquites (boiled corn kernels served with a dollop of mayo), tamales and flautas (chicken
tacos, rolled long and thin then deep-fried; garnished with lettuce and cream).
 Tostadas Coyoacn(Map p123; %5659-8774; Allende btwn Malitzin & Xicotncatl; tostadas $1.50-2;
hnoon-6pm mViveros) Inside Coyoacns main market is one of the best places to eat any-
where in town. The attractive array of platters here will stop hungry visitors in their tracks.
Tostadas are piled high with things like ceviche, marinated octopus and pigs feet, mushrooms
and shredded chicken.
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brings a touch of class to Mexican standards activity, this standing roomonly taquera
without putting on airs. Highlights include is sought out by taco mavens from all over.
red-snapper tamales, nopales (cactus Unlike at thousands of similar places, the
paddles) in chile guajillo (slightly chili) twist here is that the beef is not chopped up
sauce, and pollo tocotln (chicken steamed but grilled in thin slices. The salsas chipotle
in maguey leaves with aromatic herbs). and salsa verde are exceptional.
Desserts are equally enticing. Tacos Xotepingo (Map pp114-15; %5709-4548;
Restaurante Chon (Map pp114-15; %5542-0873; Balderas 42; tacos $1.25-2.50; h11am-11pm; mBal-
Regina 160; main dishes $8.50-16; h10am-7pm Mon- deras) With seating inside the big dining hall,
Sat; mPino Surez) Pre-Hispanic fare is the on the sun-dappled patio or alongside the
specialty of this cantina-style restaurant. formidable grill, this taco temple makes
Sample maguey worms (in season), a great pit stop after shopping at the
grasshoppers, wild boar or armadillo in a Ciudadela crafts market, opposite.
mango sauce. Churrera El Moro (Map pp114-15; %5512-0896;
Hostera de Santo Domingo (Map pp114-15; Eje Central Lzaro Cardenas 42; hot drink with 4 churros
%5526-5276; Domnguez 72; dishes $7-16; h9am- $3; h24hr; mSan Juan de Letrn) A fine respite
10:30pm; mAllende; p) Whipping up classic from the Eje Central crowds, El Moro
Mexican fare since 1860, this hugely popular manufactures long, slender deep-fried
(though not touristy) restaurant has a churros (doughnut-like fritters), just made
festive atmosphere, enhanced by chamber to be dipped in thick hot chocolate. Its a
music. Its famous for its enormous chiles popular late-night spot, perfect for winding
en nogada ($16), an Independence Day down after hours.
favorite, served here year-round. Both the Cloister Caf at the Museo Franz
Casino Espaol (Map pp114-15; % 5510-2967; Mayer (p134) and the more upscale Caf del
Isabel la Catlica 29; 4-course lunch $6.50; h lunch Palacio at Bellas Artes (p134) offer sandwiches,
Mon-Fri; m Allende) The old Spanish social salads and pastries between exhibits.
center, housed in a fabulous Porfiriato-
era building, has a popular cantina- BUDGET
style eatery downstairs and an elegant Caf Trevi (Map pp114-15; %5512-3020; Colon 1; break-
restaurant upstairs. Stolid execs loosen fast combos $2.75-5, 4-course lunch $3.50; mHidalgo)
their ties here for a long leisurely lunch, This remnant of old Alameda culture has a
and the courses keep coming. Spanish fare, cheery retro vibe. In addition to the great-
naturally, highlights the menu (Thursday value comida del da, it prepares various
theres cocido madrilne, a Madrid-style pasta dishes.
stew with chick peas and sausage) though Mi Fonda (Map pp114-15; % 5521-0002; Lpez
tacos dorados (chicken tacos, rolled and 101; paella $2.75; h lunch; m San Juan de Letrn)
deep fried) and chiles en nogada are equally Working-class Chilangos line up for their
well-prepared. share of paella valenciana, made fresh daily
Caf de Tacuba (Map pp114-15; % 5518-4950; and patiently ladled out by women in white
Tacuba 28; 5-course lunch $15, main courses $5-12; bonnets. Jess from Cantabria in Spain
mAllende; p) Before the band there was oversees the proceedings. Space is limited
the restaurant. Way before. A fantasy of but you can share a table.
colored tiles, brass lamps and oil paintings,
this mainstay has served antojitos (tortilla- MIDRANGE
based snacks like tacos and gorditas) El Regiomontano (Map pp114-15; %5518-0196; Luis
since 1912. The food is overrated, but Moya 115; grilled goat $15; h11am-10pm; mBalderas)
the atmosphere is just right for a plate of Lettered on the window is the message,
pambazos (filled roll fried in chili sauce) Baby goats very young kids and there
or tamales with hot chocolate. they are, splayed on stakes and grilling
over a circle of coals, norteo-style. A single
Alameda Central & Around platter serves two.
QUICK EATS Boca del Ro (Map pp114-15; %5535-0128; Ribeira
El Califa de Len (Map pp114-15; San Cosme 56-B; tacos de San Cosme 42; seafood cocktails from $4.50, fish
from $1.75; h11am-2am; mSan Cosme) Practically from $7; h9am-11pm; mSan Cosme) This old-
hidden amid the surrounding ambulante fashioned seafood purveyor has its fish
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MEXICO CIT Y
delivered daily from the coast. Have a with tables in an elegant patio. Start off with
seat at the long stainless-steel counter and pt de foie gras, then choose from duck
enjoy shrimp, oyster or octopus cocktails in Grand Marnier sauce, beef Wellington
(or eat all three in one serve, campechano or lobster thermidor. For dessert, there are
style), served with a lemon squeezer, tempting crepes and souffls.
bottle of habanero (a fiery chili) salsa and
package of Saltines. Condesa
La Condesa has become the hub of the
Zona Rosa & Around eating-out scene, and dozens of informal
While the Zona Rosa is packed with places to bistros and cafs, many with sidewalk
eat and drink, the culinary offerings tend to tables, compete for space along several
disappoint, with one notable exception: the key streets. It must be added, however,
various authentic Asian restaurants aimed that style often triumphs over substance
primarily at the neighborhoods growing here, and popularity does not necessar-
Korean community (see the boxed text, ily correlate with quality. Most higher-end
p165). Fast-food junkies can get their fix on Condesa restaurants offer valet parking for
Gnova between Hamburgo and Liverpool, around $2.50 (plus tip).
with all the major franchises.
QUICK EATS
BUDGET El Califa (Map pp118-19; %5271-7666; Altata 22, cnr
Beatricita (Map pp118-19; %5511-4213; Londres 190D; Alfonso Reyes; tacos $1.50-3; h1:30pm-3:30am; mChil-
set lunch $4.50; h10am-6pm; mInsurgentes) This pancingo; p) This very popular taquera on
popular lunchtime destination has a solid Condesas southern edge puts its own spin
comida corrida and friendly service. Friday on the classic Mexican snack. Tables are
is pozole day. set with a palette of savory salsas in sturdy
clay bowls.
MIDRANGE El Tizoncito (Map pp118-19; %5286-7321; Tamauli-
Fonda El Refugio (Map pp118-19; % 5525-8128; pas 122, cnr Campeche; tacos from $0.70; hnoon-3:30am
Liverpool 166; dishes $8-10; h 1-11pm Mon-Sat, 1- Sun-Thu, until 4:30pm Fri & Sat; mPatriotismo) The
10pm Sun; mInsurgentes; p) Your best bet for original branch of the city-wide chain has
Mexican fine dining in the Zona Rosa, the been going for nearly 40 years. It claims
Fonda El Refugio serves regional specialties to have invented tacos al pastor (ie cooked
like moles and escamoles (ant larvae) in a on a spit, shepherd style), and half the fun
charming old house. is watching the grillmen deftly put them
Restaurante Vegetariano Yug (Map pp118-19; together. If there are no seats, try the bigger
%5333-3296; Varsovia 3; buffet lunch $6.50; h7am- location two blocks east on Campeche.
10pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-8pm Sat, 1-8pm Sun; mInsur- Nevera Roxy (Map pp118-19; Mazatln 89, cnr
gentes; v) Just south of Reforma, Yug has Montes de Oca; scoops from $0.80, banana splits $3;
downtowns best vegetarian fare. Local of- h 11am-9pm; m Chapultepec) For dessert,
fice workers head upstairs for the generous try the old-fashioned Roxy which makes
lunch buffet, served from 1pm to 5pm, with fresh sherbet on-site. Another branch is at
a plethora of salads and fresh whole-wheat Tamaulipas 161 at Alfonso Reyes, close to
bread. metro Patriotismo.
Konditori (Map pp118-19; %5511-0722; Gnova 61; A pickup truck (Map pp118-19; h 11am-3pm
dishes $6-10; mInsurgentes) This Scandinavian Mon-Sat; mChilpancingo), at the corner of Tam-
caf is a favorite along the Pink Zones main aulipas and Alfonso Reyes, has crowds lin-
pedestrian thoroughfare. Some people make ing up midmorning for tasty quesadillas
a special trip here for the weekend brunch and carnitas (chunks of pork simmered in
($10) accompanied by live jazz. lard, then served with corn tortillas and
guacamole).
TOP END
Les Moustaches (Map pp118-19; %5533-3390; Ro BUDGET
Sena 88; main dishes $13-20; h1-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 1- El Figonero (Map pp118-19; %5211-9951; Campeche
6pm Sun; mInsurgentes; p) This is one of the 429-C; set lunch $3.50; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Sat; mPa-
citys most sophisticated French restaurants, triotismo) In the midst of all the trendiness
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is this little neighborhood place, offering this hip, casual bistro with an international
a comida corrida thats a bit more creative clientele.
than usual. Show up before 3pm to avoid Fonda Garufa (Map pp118-19; % 5286-8295;
the rush. Michoacn 93; pasta $7, steaks $13; h2pm-midnight
Green Corner (Map pp118-19; % 5286-3939; Mon, 8am-midnight Tue & Wed, 8am-1am Thu-Sat, 8am-
Mazatln 81; breakfast $3, salads & sandwiches $3-4; 11pm Sun; mPatriotismo; p) One of the first in
h7:30am-10pm; mPatriotismo; v) Not just a the zone to put tables on the sidewalk and
place to purchase natural products like fire up a grill, Garufa remains a popular and
whole-wheat bread and tofu, Green Corner romantic spot.
also makes a delightful spot for a healthy Don Asado (Map pp118-19; %5286-0789; Michoacn
breakfast, with sidewalk tables on a laid- 77; steaks from $9; hTue-Sun; mPatriotismo) Per-
back corner. haps its the way they grill their steaks and
Frutos Prohibidos (Map pp118-19; %5264-5808; sausages slowly, over coals or perhaps
Amsterdam 244; wraps $4-5; h 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, its their affordable prices, but theres often
10am-6pm Sat & Sun; mChilpancingo) When you a line outside this cozy Uruguayan place.
need a break from biftek, Forbidden Fruits A parrillada (board for two or three) is a
puts together healthy salads, wraps and good way to sample some of the choicest
fruit-juice combos. Consider taking out for cuts, such as tira de asado (ribs, sliced into
a picnic in nearby Parque Mxico. Catch strips) or bife de chorizo (boneless sections
metrobus Campeche. of loin).
Don Keso (Map pp118-19; %5211-3806; Amsterdam Bistrot Mosaico (Map pp118-19; % 5584-2932;
73, cnr Parras; baguettes & salads $3-4; h10am-midnight Michoacn 10; starters $4-9, main courses $9-16; hnoon-
Mon-Wed, 10am-2am Thu-Sat, 1-9pm Sun; mInsurgen- 11:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-5:30pm Sun; mChilpancingo;
tes) This casual, reasonably priced hangout p) A slice of Paris just west of Av In-
near Parque Mxico has great baguettes and surgentes, this unpretentious bistro is the
salads, plus an exciting cocktail selection. successful creation of French restaurateur
Crowds rush in for the good-value comida Francois Avernin. Its trendy for a reason:
corrida ($5). the service is stellar, the salads fresh and
varied, and the wines well chosen. Picnick-
MIDRANGE & TOP END ers can stock up on pt and escargots at
Condesas culinary heart is the intersection the deli counter.
of Av Michoacn, Vicente Surez and Barracuda Diner (Map pp118-19; % 5211-9480;
Atlixco. After 8pm the following places are Av Nuevo Len 4A, cnr Av Sonora; burgers $6.50-8.50;
often filled to capacity and getting a table h1pm-4am Mon-Thu, 24hr Fri-Sun; mSevilla) This
means waiting around for a while. More retro-style diner does a fine facsimile of
good restaurants and cafs ring Parque gringo comfort food, including cheese-
Mxico. burgers and macaroni and cheese, fish and
El Zorzal (Map pp118-19; %5273-6023; Alfonso Reyes chips, plus some pretty far-out milkshakes
39, cnr Tamaulipas; steaks $9.50-19, pasta $5-6.50; h1- (mmm, mamey).
11pm; mPatriotismo; p) Run by Buenos Aires
native Julio, this is the best of many options Roma
for Argentinean fare, with imported cuts, as QUICK EATS
well as fresh pasta and generous salads. The An unassuming street stall labeled ham-
parrillada ($26), a mixed grill served on a burguesas (Map pp118-19; cnr Morelia & Colima;
chopping board, feeds at least two. burgers $1.50; h 10am-midnight; m Cuauhtmoc)
La Sbia Virtud (Map pp118-19; %5286-6480; does a roaring trade in hamburgers al
Tamaulipas 134B; main courses $7-9; m Patriotismo; carbn (charcoal-broiled), garnished with
p) Nouvelle cuisine from Puebla is lov- lettuce, tomatoes and chilies. Across
ingly presented at this cozy spot. Mole is Morelia, another popular stall produces
prepared in the classic Santa Clara convent exquisite deep-fried quesadillas, filled with
style or the restaurants own verde version. things like huitlacoche (corn mushrooms)
Caf La Gloria (Map pp118-19; % 5211-4180; and squash blossoms. Mornings before
Vicente Surez 41; pasta & salads $5-6, main dishes $8-10; 10:30am, look for superb tamales
h1pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-11pm Sun; mPatriotismo; oaxaqueos at the corner of lvaro Ob-
p) Check out the blackboard specials at regn and Tonal.
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mLzaro Crdenas) East of Roma, in working-
THE AUTHORS CHOICE class Colonia Algarn, this old-fashioned
Mara del Alma (Map pp118-19; %5553-0403; dining hall attracts plenty of families with
Cuernavaca 68, Condesa; starters $4-6, main courses hefty appetites. The specialty (its been per-
$7-12; h1:30-11pm Mon-Fri, until 1:30am Sat, fecting for 35 years) is Guerrero-style green
until 6pm Sun; mPatriotismo; p) A culinary pozole, a soulful variation on the classic
escape to the Mexican state of Tabasco, pork and hominy broth, garnished with
Mara del Alma is a bit removed from the crackling chicharrn and creamy avocado
Condesa hubbub. Dining is in a leafy patio slices.
among singing birds and a romantically
inclined pianist. Enjoy a guanabana mar- MIDRANGE & TOP END
garita as tabasqueo owners Jorge and Contramar (Map pp118-19; % 5514-3169; Durango
Fernando describe such regional treats as 200; starters $5-9, main courses $12-14; h1:30-6:30pm;
tamales de chipiln. For a main dish, try sea m Insurgentes; p ) Fresh seafood, artfully
bass steamed in aromatic herbs. Be sure to prepared, is the star attraction at this stylish
save room for the mind-blowing desserts, dining hall with a seaside ambience. The
say, dulce de coco con almendra, a scoop specialty is tuna fillet Contramar style
of sweet, shredded coconut spiked with split, swabbed with red chili and parsley
chocolate. sauces, and grilled to perfection.
Ixchel (Map pp118-19; %3096-5010; Medelln 65;
main dishes $15; h1pm-3.30am Mon-Sat; mInsur-
BUDGET gentes; p) Fusion is an overused term
El 91 (Map pp118-19; % 5208-1666; Valladolid 91; among Condesa and Roma bistros, but this
dishes $4-9.50; h1-7pm Sun-Fri; mSevilla) Lunch late-night supper club takes it seriously.
is served to piano accompaniment at this Ixchels innovative chef deftly fuses Mexican
triple-deck restaurant-bar dumbwaiters elements (grasshoppers, squash blossoms)
deliver the food to the top terrace. It offers with Mediterranean and Asian fare (risotto
a different menu daily, with a long list of and tempura). The upstairs Saln Azul adds
homemade soups and main dishes. another dimension (Wednesday to Saturday
Taquera El Jarocho (Map pp118-19; %5564-4077; nights), with DJs supplying the appropri-
Manzanillo 49, cnr Tapachula; tacos $1.75; h7am-10pm ately chilled ambience.
Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm Sun; mChilpancingo) Scrambled
eggs in salsa verde, cactus leaves with shrimp Polanco & Bosque de Chapultepec
cakes, and brains a la mexicana are among BUDGET & MIDRANGE
the two-dozen taco fillings to choose from For moderately priced fare in Polanco, head
at this snack bar. Get two tacos for one from for Av Presidente Masaryk between Dumas
8am to 9:30am and 8:30pm to 10pm. and France; a string of sidewalk cafs lines
Non Solo Panino (Map pp118-19; %3096-5128; the south side of the street.
Plaza Luis Cabrera, Guanajuato 102; sandwiches & salads Caldos dLeo (Map pp120-1; %5580-0515; Ejrcito
$4-6; h 1pm-midnight Mon-Sat; m Insurgentes; Nacional 1014-B; chicken soup $3-5; h 8am-8pm;
p) The plazas dancing fountains make mPolanco) In this wealthy zone, mid-level
a lovely backdrop for Italian sandwiches salarymen and women file into this large
stuffed with things like mozzarella, pesto hall, a modernized version of the market
and smoked salmon. chicken-soup stall. The sopa especial dLeo
Los Bisquets Obregn (Map pp118-19; %5584- packed with hard-boiled egg, sliced avocado,
2802; lvaro Obregn 60; breakfast $4-5, antojitos $4.50- garbanzo beans and chicken giblets is a
6; mInsurgentes; pa) The flagship branch meal in itself.
of this nationwide chain overflows most Kleins (Map pp120-1; % 5281-0862; Presidente
mornings; fortunately there are a couple Masaryk 360-B; antojitos $5-10; mPolanco; p) With
more nearby. Chilangos flock here for sidewalk seating on Presidente Masaryk,
the pan chino (Chinese pastries) and caf Kleins is a popular hangout for the local
con leche, dispensed from two pitchers, Jewish community. Though most of the
Veracruz style. fare is typically Mexican (enchiladas, carne
Pozolera Tixtla (Map pp110-11; % 5233-2081; a la tampiquea), you can also get bagels or
Hernndez y D valos 35; pozole $3.50; h11am-9:30pm; a plate of kosher salami and eggs.
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TOP END door to the Carmelite ex-convent (see


La Hacienda de los Morales (Map pp120-1; %5096- p142), this is a popular stop for churros,
3054; Vzquez de Mella 525; main dishes $17-30; h1pm- sprinkled with sugar and served alongside
1am; m Polanco; p ) Often the setting for French or Mexican chocolate (spiked with
banquets and receptions, the 400-year-old tequila on request).
hacienda serves sumptuous variations on
Mexican and Spanish classics in its elegant MIDRANGE & TOP END
dining room. Reservations are advisable Capicua (Map p122; %5616-5211; Av de la Paz 14-B;
and dress is formal. tapas & raciones $4-7; mMiguel Angel de Quevado; p)
Villa Mara (Map pp120-1; %5203-0306; Homero One of several restaurants in a little mall off
704; main dishes $8-15; h1:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, Av Insurgentes, Capicua offers toothsome
1:30-7pm Sun; mPolanco; p) A large spread tapas in sleek surroundings. Served in
with an invariably celebratory atmosphere, abundant portions, the pulpos a la gallega
the Villa Mara makes a good choice for (octopus boiled with potato, drizzled with
that special meal a la mexicana. Original olive oil and sprinkled with paprika) and
recipes incorporate regional styles from tortilla de patata (potato tortilla) are the
around the Republic. Mega-margaritas best youll find this side of Madrid, and the
come in 10 versions. wine list is equally impressive.
Saks (Map p122; %5616-1601; Plaza San Jacinto 9;
Colonia del Valle main dishes $8-11.50; h7:30am-6pm Sun-Thu, 7:30am-
Fonda Margarita (Map pp110-11; Adolfo Prieto 1346; midnight Fri & Sat; mMiguel Angel de Quevado; pv)
main dishes half/full portion $2/2.75; h5:30-11:30am At this mostly vegetarian restaurant with
Mon-Sat) Possibly the capitals premier a splendid terrace, choose from meatless
hangover-recovery spot witness the line specialties like poblano chilies stuffed
down the street on Saturday mornings with corn-fungus, huge salads and squash
the humble fonda (eating place) opposite blossom crepes. Breakfast combos are
Parque Tlacoquemcatl whips up big popular, with plenty of fruit, fresh-baked
batches of comfort food for the day ahead. bread and a half-liter of juice.
Soulful fare like pork back in chile guajillo Fonda San ngel (Map p122; %5550-1641; Plaza
sauce is doled out of giant pots. Dont San Jacinto 3; main dishes $8.50-11; mMiguel Angel de
miss the huevos refritos (eggs scrambled Quevado; p) On weekends, this attractive
with refried black beans). Catch metrobus restaurant by the plaza does an abundant
Parque Hundido. brunch buffet ($10), with all kinds of egg
Taquera Villameln (Map pp110-11; % 5563- dishes, pastries and fresh-squeezed juices,
2779; Alberto Balderas 3a; tacos $1; h9am-6pm Thu- plus great quesadillas.
Sun) After the corrida, stop by this popular San ngel Inn (Map p122; %5616-1402; Diego Rivera
joint just outside the bullring, whose name 50; main dishes $9-19; h1pm-1am Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun;
translates as bullfighting neophyte. There p) Next to the Estudio Diego Rivera, this
are ample bowls of salsa the house blend ex-hacienda serves Mexican and European
is plenty hot to spice up your sausage, cuisine. Even if you dont splurge for dinner,
pork rind or cecina (a thin cut of meat, have one of its renowned margaritas or
flavored with chili and sauted or grilled) martinis in the garden. Walk or take a taxi
tacos, or all three combined. Catch metro- 1km northwest from San ngels Plaza San
bus Ciudad de los Deportes. Jacinto. On foot, one pleasant route is west
on Galeana, then north on Leandro Valle
San ngel
BUDGET Coyoacn
Bazar Sbado (Map p122; Plaza San Jacinto 11; QUICK EATS
quesadillas $1.50; h10am-7pm Sat; mMiguel Angel Supertacos Chupacabras (Map p123; Mayorazgo,
de Quevado) For a break from shopping, grab cnr Av Universidad; tacos $0.70; h7am-3am Mon-Sat,
a few fresh-made quesadillas in the plaza 7am-midnight Sun; mCoyoacn) Named after the
of the market building; theres also a lunch mythical goat sucker (something like
buffet ($18). the Loch Ness monster), this mega taco
El Convento (Map p122; Plaza del Carmen 4; churros stall provides an ideal stand-up snack
& chocolate $3; mMiguel Angel de Quevado) Next between metro Coyoacn and the Cineteca
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Nacional. The beef and sausage tacos can be order the chamorros ($7.50), Flintstone-size
enhanced by availing yourself of the fried joints of pork, and stuff the morsels into
onions, nopales and other tasty toppings homemade tortillas.
that fill half a dozen huge clay casseroles in Fonda El Morral (Map p123; %5554-0298; Allende
front. As the sign says, Si es de res aqui es 2; breakfast $5.50-7.50, antojitos $4-6; mViveros) This
(If its made of beef, here it is). large restaurant with tiled arches is good for
El Tizoncito (Map p123; %5554-7712; Aguayo 3; a traditional breakfast or evening huchepos
tacos from $0.70; hnoon-2:30am Sun-Thu, noon-3:30am (slightly sweet Michoacn-style tamales)
Fri & Sat; mViveros) Branch of the popular taco and chocolate, served in clay mugs.
chain that originated in Condesa.
Nieves de Coyoacn (Map p123; Plaza Hidalgo 31; MIDRANGE & TOP END
scoops from $1; 8am-10pm or 11pm; mViveros) This El Jardn del Pulpo (Map p123; cnr Allende & Malitzin;
obligatory weekend stop has homemade ice cocktails $3.75-6.50, fish dishes $11-15; h 10:30am-
cream and popsicles in flavors ranging from 6pm; mViveros) Fresh-fish platters, shrimp
corn to Nescaf. and oyster cocktails and caldos (broths)
Coyoacns best deep-fried snacks are are served at this locale on a corner of the
found at Churros Allende (Map p123; Allende 38; main market. Everyone sits on benches at
from $0.70; mViveros). Get in line for a bag long tables.
cream-filled or straight up then stroll over Los Danzantes (Map p123; %5658-6054; Jardn
to El Jarocho for coffee (p170). del Centenario 12; dishes $8.50-13; m Viveros) Los
Danzantes puts a contemporary spin on
BUDGET Mexican cuisine with dishes like fusilli con
Chamorros Coyoacn (Map p123; % 5659-0340; chapulines (grasshopper pasta) and squash
Madrid 29; main dishes $2.50-3.75; h1-6pm Mon-Sat; blossom salad. Youll also find mezcal
mCoyoacn) Office workers fill this barn- cocktails and cigars from San Andrs in
like structure at lunchtime. Most patrons Veracruz.

ETHNIC EATING
Though Chilangos tend to be conservative in their tastes, the city hosts enough foreign commu-
nities to cater to more internationally inclined palates. Note that generally cafs chinos (Chinese
restaurants) are more likely to serve enchiladas and biscuits than authentic Chinese fare.
 Hong King (Map pp114-15; %5512-6703; Dolores 25A; dishes $5-7; h11am-11pm; mBellas Artes) The
most popular restaurant in Mexico Citys small Chinatown, with set Cantonese meals ($5.50
to $15, minimum two people) and some vegetarian offerings such as the tofu with veggie
stir-fry.
(Map pp118-19; %5514-9030; Londres 178, cnr Florencia; sandwiches $2, salads $3.50;
 King Felafel
h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; mInsurgentes) Middle-Eastern fast-food place with felafel,
hummus and tabouleh, run by a Syrian Jew who knows all the family recipes.
 U Rae Ok (Map pp118-19; %5511-1233; Hamburgo 232; main dishes $6-8; hMon-Sat; mInsurgentes)
Core of the Korean community, the Zona Rosa has several authentic restaurants catering to it.
This simple upstairs locale has the finest bul-go-gi (grilled marinated beef ) and chigae (hearty
soup), at the best prices.
 Kolobok(Map pp110-11; %5541-7085; Daz Mirn 87; salads $3.50, combo platters $4; h9am-8pm;
mBuenavista) Run by a Russian family, this humble place facing the charming Alameda of the
Santa Mara La Ribera neighborhood has excellent layered salads, tasty Russian empanadas
and borscht, of course.
 Restaurante Shalala (Map pp118-19; %5286-5406; Tamaulipas 93, cnr Alfonso Reyes, Condesa; sushi
from $2, noodle & rice dishes $8; h1-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun; mPatriotismo; pv) Long-standing
Japanese deli noted for its authenticity (owner Hiroshi is a Tokyo native) and casual atmos-
phere. Standouts include the tempura and negitoro don (fresh tuna with sesame oil served on
a bed of rice).
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DRINKING Bar Mancera (Map pp114-15; % 5521-9755;


Cafs, bars and cantinas are all major so- Venustiano Carranza 49; cover Fri & Sat night $5;
cial venues on the capitals landscape. Star- hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat; mSan
bucks is a latecomer to a long-standing caf Juan de Letrn) This ancient gentlemens
tradition fueled by beans from Veracruz, salon with ornate wood carving and well-
Oaxaca and Chiapas. Coyoacn in particu- used domino tables has been adopted by
lar is jammed with java joints. The bar young clubbers who set up turntables
scene is extraordinarily lively with a high Friday nights from around 9pm.
degree of specialization, from Irish pubs to Hostera La Bota (Map pp114-15; Callejn de
martini clubs. Cantinas, Mexicos pubs, are Mesones 7; h10am-8pm Mon-Wed, 10am-2am Thu-Sat;
traditionally a male domain but women are mIsabel la Catlica) A cultural beachhead in the
welcome nowadays. rough-and-tumble southern fringe of the
Prices for drinks vary quite a bit, but Centro, this fun and funky new bar is one
generally beers are around $2 to $3, and component of the Casa Vecina community
mixed drinks range from $4 to $10. arts center. The warped bullfighting
paraphernalia and mismatched furniture
Centro Histrico seem attuned to a contemporary Spanish
CAFS sensibility.
Take a coffee break at any of these charming El Nivel (Map pp114-15; %5522-9755; Moneda 2;
downtown locales. hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; mZcalo) The coun-
Caf Jakemir (Map pp114-15; %5709-7038; Isabel trys first cantina proudly displays its li-
la Catlica 74A; h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; m Isabel la cense (No 1), dating from 1855. On the
Catlica) Run by a family of Lebanese coffee site of the hemispheres first university,
traders from Orizaba, this old distribution its within shouting distance of the Palacio
outlet transformed into a popular caf has Nacional, and since its opening, every Mexi-
excellent and inexpensive cappuccinos. can president except Vicente Fox has stopped
Caf La Habana (Map pp114-15; % 5535-2620; in for a trago (drink). The botanas (drinking
Morelos 62; h 8am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm Sun; snacks) here are particularly fine.
m Jurez) This grand coffeehouse is a Saln Corona (Map pp114-15; %5512-5725; Bolvar
traditional haunt for writers and journalists, 24; h9am-midnight; mAllende) Punks and suits
who linger for hours over their caf ameri- crowd this boisterous, no-frills bar, running
cano. Legend has it that Fidel and Che since 1928. Amiable staff serve up tarros
plotted strategy here prior to the Cuban (mugs) of light or dark cerveza de barril
revolution. (draft beer) and bottles of almost every
Other options: known Mexican beer for $2.50 each.
La Selva Caf (Map pp114-15; %5521-4111; Bolvar Los Portales de Tlaquepaque (Map pp114-15;
31; h8:30am-10pm; mAllende) Branch of the Chiapas %5518-6344; Bolvar 56; h9am-2am; mSan Juan
coffee distributor in the stunning patio of a colonial de Letrn) Sharing a downtown spot with a
building. number of other straightforward saloons,
Caf del Passaje (Map pp114-15; %5521-0683; this two-storey operation has the best-
Pasaje Iturbide; h8am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-9:30pm stocked bar and liveliest atmosphere.
Sun; mAllende) Nice journal-writing spot on traffic-free La pera Bar (Map pp114-15; %5512-8959; Av 5
Gante. de Mayo 10; h1pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-5:30pm Sun;
Cafe Cordobs (Map pp114-15; %5512-5545; mAllende) This early-20th-century watering
Ayuntamiento 18; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; hole only opened its doors to women in the
mSan Juan de Letrn) Good spot for a standup cortado 1970s. With original booths of dark wal-
(espresso with a little foamed milk) amid a busy shopping nut and an ornate tin ceiling (said to have
district; bulk coffee from Veracruz at reasonable prices. been punctured by Pancho Villas bullet
on an otherwise slow night), its a pleas-
BARS ant setting for a tequila (but seek dinner
La Gioconda (Map pp114-15; % 5518-7823; Filom- elsewhere).
ena Mata 18; h2-10pm Mon-Thu, 2pm-3am Fri & Sat;
m Allende) Dark and light draft beer are Zona Rosa & Around
poured in this happening little pub off a The Pink Zone can seem pretty sleazy
pedestrian thoroughfare. with so many dark-suited bouncers and
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touts trying to lure business into strip coffee shop makes a convenient port-of-
joints, but there are plenty of fully clothed call between clubs. Perhaps the fresh-juice
establishments, too. combos are the most exciting item on an
otherwise bland menu.
CAFS Cafetera Gabis (Map pp118-19; % 5511-7637;
Sanborns Caf (Map pp118-19; %5207-9760; Londres Npoles 55, cnr Liverpool; hMon-Sat; mInsurgentes)
149; h24hr; mInsurgentes) Chilangos custom- Cluttered with caffeine-related parapherna-
arily meet here for a business breakfast or lia, this family-run coffeehouse in an other-
lunch. After hours, the round-the-clock wise nondescript section of Colonia Jurez

PULQUERAS
Before discotheques, even before cantinas, Mexico had pulqueras. Named after the drink they
served, these seedy hovels were the working-class watering hole for the better part of 400 years,
before refrigeration and more conventional beverages starting pushing them to the side.
When the Aztecs ruled Mexico, pulque, extracted from the maguey plant, was used only in
rituals and by the elite. Its production was strictly controlled and drunkenness was severely
punished. When the Spanish arrived, pulque hit the streets. The milky, low-alcohol brew was
sold from open-air stands and the method of service was just as primitive: purveyors would
ladle the drink from large basins into earthenware cups. As the day wore on, these cups would
be smashed by rowdy patrons once the contents were drained epa!
The ancient beverage was widely consumed in Mexico City throughout the colonial period,
chiefly among the citys underclasses statistics of the era show an annual per capita consumption
among adults of 187 gallons. In the mid-17th century there were some 200 pulqueras operating
in the Centro. The government restricted their locations to outlying neighborhoods, a factor that
may have contributed to the wicked brews eventual demise. In the meantime, other potent pot-
ables, such as beer brought by German immigrants, as well as mezcal and tequila, began to gain
greater popularity and supplant pulque as the intoxicant of choice. True pulque is homemade,
not bottled, and therefore not viable for large-scale commercial production.
Nowadays just a handful of pulqueras still function. They tend to be extremely rustic places,
and some remain male-only enclaves. However, they are highly social venues with patrons in a
conversant mood. Food is served (often for free) and jukeboxes are normally set just below blast
volume. The viscous white liquid may be served straight up or in the somewhat more palatable
curado (flavored form). Coconut, pineapple and mango are popular, along with some odd vari-
ations like beet, oat (sprinkled with cinnamon) and celery.
 Las Duelistas (Map pp114-15; Aranda 30; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat; mSalto del Agua) Behind the
swinging doors is this larger pulquera alongside the Mercado San Juan. Pulque is dispensed
straight out of the barrel in a wide range of flavors, including pistachio and pine nut (and for
the brave, in shrimp and oyster cocktails Friday and Saturday).
 La Risa (Map pp114-15; %5709-4963; Mesones 71; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat; mIsabel la Catlica) Going
since 1900, The Laugh is popular among bohemian young men and women who engage in
intellectual pursuits like playing chess or reading history while drinking their pulque, and the
jukebox features a more contemporary selection than usual.
 La Hermosa Hortensia (Map pp114-15; Plaza Garibaldi 4; h10am-midnight; mGaribaldi) Opening
onto Plaza Garibaldi, this makes a good pulquera for beginners: its hygiene is a cut above the
norm, theyre used to seeing foreigners, and the atmosphere is 100% familiar.
 El Recreo de Manzanares (Map pp110-11; Manzanares 30; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat; mZcalo) At this
hole-in-the-wall near the Mercado de la Merced, youll find a group of grizzled characters in a
festive mood sitting around a long table sharing pitchers of pulque natural, a scene straight
from the Golden Age.
 La Hija de los Apaches (Map pp118-19; %5511-0071; Cuauhtmoc 39; h9am-9:30pm Mon-Sat;
mCuauhtmoc) This working-class pulquera has long been a haunt of professional boxers.
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buzzes with conversation midmornings fresas (literally strawberries, a derogatory


and early evenings, when the occupants of term for upper-class youth).
neighboring offices pour in for a rich caf Black Horse (Map pp118-19; %5211-8740; Mexi-
con leche (coffee with milk) and a crispy cali 85, cnr Tamaulipas; h6pm-2am Tue-Sat; mPatrio-
banderilla (stick-like glazed pastry). tismo) This authentic British pub is a useful
addition to the Condesa scene, and not just
BARS because you can get bangers and mash and
Bar Miln (Map pp118-19; %5592-0031; Miln 18; watch the soccer match (projected on one
h9pm-midnight Tue & Wed, 9pm-3am Thu-Sat;mCua- wall). It also boasts an international social
uhtmoc) Tucked away on a quiet backstreet, scene and has excellent bands playing the
this cave-like hangout gets as crowded as back room most nights.
the metro. Purchase beer tickets, then El Centenario (Map pp118-19; % 5553-4454;
make your way over to the cactus-trimmed Vicente Surez 42; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; mPatrio-
bar. The soundtrack ranges from classic tismo) An enclave of tradition in the heart of
rock to Caf Tacuba; dont be surprised modish Condesa, this little gem is jammed
when the crowd spontaneously bursts into most evenings.
chorus.
Yuppies Sports Caf (Map pp118-19; %5533-
0919; Gnova 34; h1pm-2am; mInsurgentes) For THE AUTHORS CHOICE
those who need their sports fix, this gringo- Condesa df (Map pp118-19; % 5241-2600;
style betting and viewing parlor has about Veracruz 102, cnr Guadalajara; h1pm-midnight
50 TVs showing the big game. Mon-Wed, 1pm-1:30am Thu-Sat, 1-11pm Sun;
mChapultepec) The bar of the fashionable
Condesa new boutique hotel (see p157) has fast
CAFS become an essential stop on the Condesa
Caf La Selva (Map pp118-19; %5211-5170; Vicente nightlife circuit. Action focuses on the
Surez 38; m Patriotismo) The Mexican Star- triangular atrium and wackily decorated al-
bucks serves organic coffee from Chia- coves around it, where businessfolk, artists
pas, produced by small-scale indigenous and the occasional film star gather before
coffee growers. The Condesa branch is moving on to still hotter spots. Up on the
the hippest place in town for a coffee roof terrace, guests lounge on big-wheel
break. wicker sofas, nibble on sushi and enjoy views
Caf Bola de Oro (Map pp118-19; %5286-5659; of verdant Parque Espaa across the way.
Nuevo Len 192-B; h 7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm
Sat; m Chilpancingo) An outlying branch of
the Xalapa coffee purveyor, this is a good Mitote (Map pp118-19; %5211-9150; Amsterdam
place to score a bag of Coatepec beans or 53; h 8pm-2am Tue-Sat; m Chilpancingo) Mitote
simply enjoy a cup of Veracruz fine, full- (Nhuatl for ruckus), a lively little joint
bodied blends. near Parque Espaa, lives up to its name.
Caff Toscano (Map pp118-19; % 5584-3681; Owner Walter works the quirkily decorated
Michoacn 30; h7:30am-11pm; mChilpancingo) This lounge like a good host. If youre hungry,
sidewalk caf sits on a delightful corner of try the tasty tapas.
Parque Mxico, making a fine setting for Malafama (Map pp118-19; % 5553-5138; Av
a latte and the morning paper grab one Michoacn 78; tables per hr $7.50; mPatriotismo) Not
off the rack. an exclusively male domain by any means,
Condesas billiard hall is as trendy as its
BARS bars and cafs. The well-maintained tables
Condesas bar scene continues to thrive, are frequented by both pool sharks and
and new places are popping up (and shut- novices.
ting down) all the time. The following are Hookah Lounge (Map pp118-19; %5264-6275;
relatively well established and filled beyond Campeche 284; h1pm-12:30am Mon-Wed, until 2am Thu-
capacity Thursday through Saturday even- Sat; mChilpancingo) Moroccan tapestries and
ings. The confluence of Tamaulipas and pillows set the tone for this North African
Nuevo Len has emerged as a major bar fantasy augmented by house music. Bring
zone, earning a reputation as a haven for friends and share a water pipe (from $10),
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available in a bewildering array of flavors. joint. Have a mojito, a Cuban concoction of
Belly dancers perform Wednesdays. rum and mint leaves ($4.50), and enjoy the
Pata Negra (Map pp118-19; %5211-5563; Tamaulipas excellent son cubano combos that perform
30; h 1:30pm-2am; m Patriotismo) Nominally here.
a tapas bar, this oblong salon draws a Lamm (Map pp118-19; % 5514-8501; lvaro
friendly, clean-cut crowd of 20-something Obregn 99; h until 2am Mon-Sat; m Insurgentes)
Chilangos and expats. Theres live music In the evening the open-air restaurant of
on both levels, with the upper Saln Pata the Casa Lamm turns into a hip lounge
Negra striking a more bohemian tone. where a smart set congregates until the wee
Cafeina (Map pp118-19; %5212-0090; Nuevo Len hours. Theres live msica cubana and jazz
73; h1pm-2am; mPatriotismo) This sleek caf- Tuesday and Wednesday.
bar hybrid has crushed-velvet armchairs Taberna Red Fly (Map pp118-19; %1054-3616;
and a narrow terrace, and is a good vantage Orizaba 143; h6pm-midnight Mon-Wed, 6pm-2am Thu-
point for gawking at gorgeous arrivals over Sat; mCentro Mdico) An elegantly furnished
a latte or Cafeini (espresso martini). Star space in a typical Porfiriato-era residence,
DJs work the room from a central module. the Red Fly gets busy on weekends when a
Celtics (Map pp118-19; %5211-9081; Tamaulipas youthful, alternative crowd moves in. The
36; h 1:30pm-3am Mon-Sat; m Patriotismo) An upstairs lounge is reserved for DJ sessions
Argentinean-run facsimile of an Irish pub, and occasional live music.
Celtics remains hugely popular with young Tierra de Vinos (Map pp118-19; % 5208-5133;
defeos. A Guinness will set you back $6 Durango 197; h1-8pm Mon & Tue, 1pm-midnight Wed-
here, a draft Sol, $3. The soundtrack is more Sat; mInsurgentes) Mexico is not a nation of
U2 than Chieftains; bands play Monday oenophiles, so this wine-tasting salon is
and Tuesday nights. a pleasant surprise. The wine list changes
monthly, with most of the worlds vineyards
Roma represented, and theres classic Spanish fare
CAFS to complement your choice.
Enanos de Tapanco (Map pp118-19; %5564-2274; Cantina Covadonga (Map pp118-19; % 5533-
Orizaba 161, cnr Quertaro; h8am-11:30pm Mon-Fri, 2922; Puebla 121; h1pm-3am Mon-Fri; mInsurgentes)
9am-11:30pm Sat, 3:30-10:30pm Sun; mCentro Mdico) Echoing with the sounds of clacking
Possibly Mexico Citys coolest caf, the dominoes, the old Asturian social hall is a
Dwarves of the Loft also functions as an traditionally male enclave, though hipsters
art gallery. Cappuccinos and quiches are of both sexes have increasingly moved in on
served along with an eclectic music selec- this hallowed ground.
tion. Theres live music Friday and story-
telling Tuesday evening. Polanco
Caf de Carlo (Map pp118-19; % 5574-5647; Though not as cutting-edge as Condesa,
Orizaba 115; h Mon-Sat; m Insurgentes) Coffee this well-heeled neighborhood gets quite
connoisseurs head for this unassuming lively after dark.
sidewalk caf, with an aromatic roaster and Segafredo (Map pp120-1; % 5281-1203; Dumas
vintage espresso machine. 71-C; h8am-midnight Sun-Wed, 8am-2:30am Thu-Sat;
La Mediterrnea (Map pp118-19; %5208-7810; mPolanco) The Bologna-based chain expertly
Orizaba 87; h 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat; prepares all the espresso variations, from
mInsurgentes) Almost hidden on a tree-lined caff latte fredo to macchiato con panna.
corridor, this Turkish teahouse has sidewalk Attracted by wireless access, laptop-users
tables and a small tapestry-draped salon for often occupy the upper level, which has an
savoring exotic teas, strong Turkish coffee open-air terrace attached.
and fabulously rich desserts. rea (Map pp120-1; %5282-3100; Presidente Masaryk
201; h7-11pm Mon-Wed, 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; mPolanco)
BARS Atop the Hbita Hotel, this rooftop bar does
La Bodeguita del Medio (Map pp118-19; %5553- a brisk trade in exotic martinis, as videos are
0246; Cozumel 37; h2pm-2am Tue-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun projected on the wall of a nearby building.
& Mon; mSevilla) The walls of various salons Terra de Galicia (Map pp120-1; % 5280-7737;
are scribbled with verses and messages at Dumas 7; h1:30pm-1:30am Mon-Sat, 1:30am-midnight
this animated branch of the famous Havana Sun; mAuditorio; p) Galicias signature beer
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is dispensed from copper tanks here, along Auditorio Nacional (Map pp120-1; Paseo de la Reforma
with authentic Spanish tapas. 50; h11am-6pm; mAuditorio)
Moon Bar (Map pp120-1; %5263-8887; Mariano Liverpool Centro (Map pp114-15; Venustiano Carranza
Escobedo 700; cover for events; h9pm-2am Wed-Sat; 92; h11am-7pm; mZcalo); Polanco (Map pp120-1;
mAuditorio) Inside the Camino Real hotel is Mariano Escobedo 425; h11am-8pm; mPolanco)
this ambient open-air lounge, where a select Mixup Centro Histrico (Map pp114-15; Madero 51;
clientele unwind on canopied beds under h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mZcalo);
the moonlight. Calle 16 de Septiembre (Map pp114-15; Calle 16 de Septiem-
bre 14; mSan Juan de Letrn); Zona Rosa (Map pp118-19;
Coyoacn Gnova 76; h9am-9pm; mInsurgentes)
Caf El Jarocho (Map p123; %5658-5029; Cuauhtmoc
134, cnr Allende; h 6am-1am; m Coyoacn) This Cinemas
immensely popular joint churns out $0.70 Mexico City is a banquet for moviegoers.
cappuccinos for long lines of java hounds. Almost everything is screened here and
As theres no seating inside, people have ticket prices are around $4, with many places
their coffee standing in the street or sitting offering discounts on Wednesday. Except
on curbside benches. The branch just for childrens fare, movies are in original
around the corner makes great tortas, and languages, with Spanish subtitles. Reforma
both branches have terrific doughnuts. and La Jornada have daily listings.
An El Jarocho branch (Map p123; %5659-9107; The following multiplexes have mostly
Av Mxico 25-C) is convenient to Viveros park. Hollywood fare, with the odd Mexican hit.
Get off at Viveros metro stop. Cine Diana (Map pp118-19; %2122-6060; Paseo de la
La Guadalupana (Map p123; %5554-6253; Higuera Reforma 423; mSevilla) It faces La Diana Cazadora.
2; h noon-12:30am Mon-Sat; m Viveros) Serving Cinemex Palacio (Map pp114-15; %5512-0348;
drinks for over seven decades, this rustic Iturbide 25; mJurez)
tavern breathes tradition down to the blas Cinemex Real (Map pp114-15; %5512-7718; www
waiters in white coats. There are botanas .cinemex.com.mx; Coln 17; mHidalgo)
and tortas as well as heartier fare.
El Hijo del Cuervo (Map p123; %5658-7824; Jardn There are other theaters offering a more
del Centenario 17; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed, 1pm-2am Thu- eclectic program.
Sun; mViveros) This enormous stone-walled Cinemex Casa de Arte (Map pp120-1; %5280-9156;
antro (den) has a classic rock ambience with Anatole France 120; admission $4.50; mPolanco)
groups of friends packing into its various Lumiere Reforma (Map pp118-19; %5514-0000; Ro
salons and sharing pitchers of beer. Bands Guadalquivir 104; admission $4; mSevilla)
rock the house Tuesday and Wednesday
nights. In addition, several repertory cinemas cater
to film buffs.
ENTERTAINMENT Centro Cultural Universitario (Map pp110-11;
Theres so much going on in Mexico City on %5665-0709; Insurgentes Sur 3000; tickets $2.25)
any given evening, its hard to keep track. UNAMs two cinemas screen films from its collection of
Tiempo Libre, the citys comprehensive over 35,000 titles. Programming for this and other UNAM-
whats-on magazine, will help you sort it system cinemas can be found at: www.unam.mx/filmoteca
all out. Published Thursday, it covers live /Cines/cines.htm. See p143 for directions on how to get
music, theater, movies, dance, art and there.
nightlife, with lots of family options, and Cinematgrafo del Chopo (Map pp114-15; %5702-
gay venues. Other useful guides include 3494; Dr Atl 37, Colonia Santa Mara La Ribera; tickets
the comprehensive monthlies Donde Ir $2.25; mSan Cosme)
and Chilango, the latter with a Time Out Cineteca Nacional (Map p123; %1253-9390; www
supplement. Primera Fila, a Friday section .cinetecanacional.net in Spanish; Av Mxico-Coyoacn
of the Reforma newspaper, has lots of 389; tickets $3.50; mCoyoacn) Thematically focused
entertainment listings. film series are shown on six screens, with at least one for
Ticketmaster (% 5325-9000; www.ticketmaster Mexican cinema. There are cafs and bookstores at the
.com.mx in Spanish) sells tickets for all the major center of the complex, 700m east of metro Coyoacn. In
venues via Internet, phone or any of these November the Cineteca hosts the Muestra Internacional de
outlets. Cine, Mexico Citys international film festival.
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Contempo Cinema (Map pp118-19; %5208-4044; its website (www.cnca.gob.mx in Spanish)
Londres 161; www.contempocinema.com; mInsurgen- and in Fridays La Jornada.
tes) Emphasis on gay and erotic themes; inside the Zona Palacio de Bellas Artes (Map pp114-15; %5521-
Rosas Plaza ngel shopping center. 9251; Av Hidalgo 1; box office h11am-7pm; mBellas
Salon Cinematogrfico Fsforo (Map pp114-15; Artes) The Orquesta Sinfnica Nacional and
%5702-3494; San Ildefonso 43; tickets $2.25; mZ- prestigious opera and dance companies per-
calo) Inside the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso (p131). form in the palaces ornate theater, while
chamber groups appear in the recital halls.
Dance, Classical Music & Theater Its most famous, though, for the Ballet
Orchestral music, opera, ballet, contem- Folclrico de Mxico (tickets $27-46; h8:30pm Wed,
porary dance and theater are all abundantly 9:30am & 8:30pm Sun), a two-hour festive blur
represented in the capitals numerous the- of costumes, music and dance from all
aters. Museums, too, serve as performance over Mexico. Tickets are usually available
venues, including the Museo de la Secretara the day of the show at the Palacio or from
de Hacienda y Crdito Pblico (p130) and the Ticketmaster (see opposite).
Museo Universitario del Chopo (Map pp114-15; Centro Cultural Universitario (Map pp110-11;
%5546-5484; www.chopo.unam.mx in Spanish; Gonzlez %5622-7185; www.agendacultural.unam.mx in Spanish;
Martnez 10; mSan Cosme). The national arts Av Insurgentes Sur 3000) Ensconced in the woodsy
council (Conaculta) provides a rundown on southern section of the national university

GAY & LESBIAN MEXICO CITY


The Zona Rosa is the focus of the gay scene, particularly Calle Amberes, where gay-oriented
clubs and cafs have been sprouting up. Condesa, too, has seen a surge in gay cultural venues.
Hompolis magazine, available free in some clubs, and www.sergay.com.mx (in Spanish) have
useful information.
BGay BProud Caf Mxico (Map pp118-19; %5208-2547; www.bgaybproud.com; Amberes 12-B; h11am-
11pm; mInsurgentes) A good place to start your explorations, this casual caf functions as a sort
of nerve center for DF gay life, particularly among a younger crowd.
Butterflies (Map pp114-15; %5761-1861; Izazaga 9; cover incl 2 drinks $7; h9pm-4am Tue-Sun; mSalto
del Aqua) Just outside metro Salto del Agua, Butterflies is an airplane hangarsized space that
still manages to get densely packed, with five bars, a snack bar and elaborately choreographed
stage shows. Its fun for straights, too, as long as you dont mind crowds, thick smoke and loud,
loud music.
Living (Map pp118-19; %5286-0671; www.living.com.mx; Paseo de la Reforma 483, Roma; cover $12; h11pm-
4am Fri & Sat; mSevilla) Housed in a magnificent Italianate mansion near the Torre Mayor, Living is
a temple of ecstatic nightlife for the 20-something set, both gay and straight. On the enormous
main dance floor, world-class DJs cook up high-volume house sessions as sculpted performance
artists/exotic dancers gyrate. Other scenes unfold in other lounges.
El Viena (Map pp114-15; %5512-0929; Repblica de Cuba 2E; h1pm-3am; mBellas Artes) The citys
only gay cantina is a friendly if nondescript place, attracting a varied crowd, from truck drivers
to journalists. And the jukebox is terrific.
Bar Oasis (Map pp114-15; %5521-9740; Repblica de Cuba 2-G, Centro; h3pm-1am Sun-Thu, 3pm-3am Fri
& Sat; mBellas Artes) Next to El Viena, this disco has an entertaining show featuring lip-synching
trannies.
Lipstick (Map pp118-19; %5514-4920; Amberes 1, cnr Paseo de la Reforma; cover Wed-Fri $7.50, Sat $11;
hWed-Sat; mInsurgentes) At this large (capacity 950) club for an upscale 18-to-35 set, the fun
goes on in three distinct settings: a subdued lower lounge for chilling out with friends, the
Black Terrace for close encounters, and an excellent upstairs terrace for all-out revelry. Thursday
is girls night.
La Perla (Map pp114-15; %1997-7695; Repblica de Cuba 44; cover $9.50; hshows 11:30pm & 1:30am
Fri & Sat; mBellas Artes) Once a red-light venue, this small cabaret has been reborn in the age of
irony as a cradle of kitsch, with hilarious drag shows featuring uncanny impersonations of stars
like Paulina Rubio and Celia Cruz. It attracts a mixed crowd, perhaps more straight than gay, in
the mood to slum it. Be sure to arrive by 10:30pm to get in.
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campus, the complex comprises five Additionally, a number of Colonia Roma


theaters, including the Sala Nezahualcyotl, and Condesa bars and restaurants turn into
home of the UNAM Philharmonic; the live-music venues after dark (see p168).
Teatro Alarcn, which puts on plays; and
the Sala Miguel Covarrubias, a contempo- CONCERTS
rary dance venue. See p143 for directions. Auditorio Nacional (Map pp120-1; % 5280-9250;
Centro Nacional de las Artes (CNA; Map p123; www.auditorio.com.mx in Spanish; Paseo de la Reforma
%1253-9400, ext 1035; www.cenart.gob.mx in Spanish; 50; mAuditorio) Major gigs by Mexican and
Ro Churubusco 79; mGeneral Anaya) This sprawling visiting rock and pop artists take the stage
art institute has events across the artistic at the 10,000-seat Auditorio Nacional
spectrum, many free. Exit metro General (National Auditorium).
Anaya (Lnea 2) on the east side of Calz de Saln 21 (Map pp120-1; %5255-1496; Andrmaco 17,
Tlalpan, walk north to the corner and turn cnr Moliere; cover varies; mPolanco) A warehouse-
right. sized venue for touring salsa stars as well
Centro Cultural del Bosque (Map pp120-1; as rock, world and other performers. With
%5280-6228; cnr Paseo de la Reforma & Campo Marte; excellent sound, wall-length bar and dance
box office h noon-3pm & 5-7pm Mon-Fri & prior to floor for thousands, this is one of Mexicos
events; mAuditorio) This complex behind the most cutting-edge clubs.
Auditorio Nacional features six theaters, Teatro de la Ciudad (Map pp114-15; % 5510-
including the Teatro de la Danza, dedicated 2942; Donceles 36; mAllende) Built in 1918, this
to modern dance. On Saturday and Sunday lavishly restored 1500-seat hall gets some of
afternoons, childrens plays and puppet the more interesting touring groups.
shows are staged. Teatro Metropolitan (Map pp114-15; % 5510-
If your Spanish is up to it, you might 1035; Independencia 90; mJurez) Artists as diverse
sample Mexico Citys lively theater scene. as Caf Tacuba, Bobby McFerrin and the
The website www.mejorteatro.com.mx (in Russian National Ballet have played this
Spanish) covers the major venues. Perform- medium-sized hall.
ances are generally Thursday to Sunday
evenings with weekend matinees. MARIACHIS
Foro Shakespeare (Map pp118-19; %5553-4642; Five blocks north of the Palacio de Bellas
Zamora 7, Condesa; tickets free-$14; mChapultepec) Artes, Plaza Garibaldi (Map pp11415)
Small independent theater with eclectic program. is where the citys mariachi bands gather.
Teatro Blanquita (Map pp114-15; %5512-8264; Eje Outfitted in fancy costumes, they tootle
Central Lzaro Cardenas 16, Centro; tickets $8-15; their trumpets, tune their guitars and stand
mBellas Artes) Classic variety theater. around with a drink until approached by
Teatro La Capilla (Map p123; %3095-4077; www someone wholl pay for a song (about $10)
.geocities.com/losendebles; Madrid 13, Coyoacn; tickets or whisk them away to entertain at a party.
$8-10; mCoyoacn) Highlighting contemporary Mexican Plaza Garibaldi gets going by about 8pm
playwrights. and stays busy until around midnight. For
food, try the Mercado San Camilito north
Live Music of the plaza.
The variety of music is impressive, with El Tenampa (Map pp114-15; %5526-6176; h1pm-
traditional Mexican, Cuban, folk, jazz, 3am; mGaribaldi) Graced with murals of the
rock and other styles being played in con- giants of Mexican song and enlivened by its
cert halls, clubs, bars, museums, on pub- own songsters, this festive cantina on the
lic transportation and on the street. The north side of the plaza is an obligatory visit.
Espectculos Nocturnos and Espectculos
Populares sections in Tiempo Libre cover ROCK
events. The street-market Tianguis Cultural del Chopo
Free concerts take place most weekends (see the boxed text, p177) has a stage at
on the Zcalo. Coyoacn is another good its north end every Saturday afternoon for
bet most evenings and all day Saturday and young and hungry alternative, metal and
Sunday: musicians, comedians and mimes punk bands.
turn its two central plazas into a big open- Dada X (Map pp114-15; %2454-4310; www.dadax
air party. .com.mx in Spanish; Bolvar 31, cnr Calle 16 de Septiembre;
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depending on event, free-$10; h from 9pm Thu-Sat; crowd the plaza every Saturday afternoon
mSan Juan de Letrn) Black-clad youth gravitate to do the danzn, an elegant though
toward this space on the upper floor of a complicated Cuban step that infiltrated
magnificent colonial building. The varied Mexico in the 19th century. Lessons in
program includes cult films, poetry readings danzn and other steps are given from
and live music, which might be anything noon to 4pm.
from ska to electronica. Saln Los ngeles (Map pp110-11; % 5597-
Multiforo Alicia (Map pp118-19; % 5511-2100; 5181; Lerdo 206; cover $3.25; h 6-11pm Tue & Sun;
Av Cuauhtmoc 91; cover $5; h 8pm-2am Fri & Sat; mTlatelolco) Those who dont know Los
mCuauhtmoc) Behind the graffiti-scrawled ngeles dont know Mexico reads the mar-
facade is Mexico Citys premier rock club. quee, and for once the hyperbole is well
A suitably smoky, seatless space, the Alicia deserved. Cuban-music fans wont want to
stages up-and-coming punk, surf and ska miss the outstanding orchestras here nor
bands, who hawk their music at the store the incredibly graceful dancers who fill the
downstairs. vast floor. Particularly on Tuesday evening,
Pasagero (Map pp114-15; %5521-6112; Motolina when an older crowd comes for danzones,
33; m Allende) Some visionary developers its like the set of a period film. Saln Los
took a historic building and transformed ngeles is in a rough area so take a taxi.
its ground level into a space for various El Gran Len (Map pp118-19; % 5564-7110;
cultural happenings, especially rock and Quertaro 225; cover $5.50; h 9pm-3:30am Thu-Sat;
electronica gigs. A key venue in the Centro m Chilpancingo) This club hosts the citys
redevelopment scheme, the club only opens finest Cuban son ensembles. Two or three
for events: phone to find out whats on. groups take the tropical stage nightly.
Unescorted (and escorted) women should
JAZZ expect to be invited up onto the tightly
Papa Beto (Map pp118-19; %5592-1638; www.papa packed dance floor.
beto.com in Spanish; Villalongn 196, Colonia Cuauhtmoc; Mam Rumba (cover $6.50; h9pm-3am Thu-Sat)
cover $7.50; h 1st/2nd set 9:30pm/11pm Tue-Sat; Roma (Map pp118-19; % 5564-6920; Quertaro 230,
mInsurgentes) Run by a Japanese expatriate cnr Medelln; mChilpancingo); San ngel (Map p122;
to highlight the impressive wealth of local %5550-8099; Plaza San Jacinto 23; mMiguel Angel
talent, this club is the citys top jazz venue. de Quevado) Mam Rumba features contem-
Tuesday night is reserved for jam sessions porary salsa, attracting a younger, upscale
with surprise guests. crowd. Its also a gathering place for the
Zinco Jazz Club (Map pp114-15; % 5512-3369; local Cuban community. Be sure to arrive
Motolina 20; cover varies with event; hfrom 9pm Wed- early for a table, as the club invariably fills
Sun; %Allende) Another new space in the beyond capacity.
Centro, Zinco is a subterranean supper club Primer Cuadro (Map pp114-15; % 5521-2016;
featuring local players and occasional big- Bolvar 12; hfrom 9pm Thu-Sat; mAllende) At this
name touring artists. stylish bookstore-restaurant, the evenings
entertainment begins with trova (songs),
LATIN DANCE then shifts into dance mode as Cuban
The citys many aficionados have a circuit salseros take the stage and a mostly over-30
of clubs and salones de baile (dance halls) to set fills the floor.
choose from. Even if you dont dance, youll
enjoy just listening to the great music and CABARET
watching the experts on the dance floor. At La Casa de Paquita la del Barrio (Map pp110-11;
the clubs listed here, its customary to go in %5583-8131; Zarco 202; h8:30pm Fri & Sat; cover
a group and share a bottle of rum or tequila $14; mGuerrero) Located in the rough-and-
(around $60, including mixers). tumble Guerrero district, Paquitas house
Cuban dance clubs abound in Colonia is a bastion of popular culture. Following
Roma, particularly near the intersection of a series of openers, Paquita la del Barrio,
Insurgentes and Medelln. the corpulent TV and recording star, takes
You might learn a few steps at the Plaza the stage and proceeds to run through a
de Danzn (Map pp11415), northwest of sublime set of plaintive ballads, almost all of
La Ciudadela near metro Balderas. Couples which express disdain for her suitors her
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asides are deliciously bitter. Phone ahead to up a floor of the mammoth Plaza Condesa
find out if Paquita is performing. building. A narrow hall eerily enhanced by
El Batacln (Map pp118-19; % 5511-7390; liquid illumination, it has fast become the
Popocatpetl 25, cnr Amsterdam; cover $15; h 9pm choice for electronica aficionados, with great
Tue-Sat; m Insurgentes) A theater within a sound and an ever-changing cast of DJs.
club (La Bodega), this intimate cabaret La Terraza (Map pp114-15; % 5521-1925; www
showcases some of Mexicos most vivid .ccemx.org; hfrom 10pm Fri & Sat; mZcalo) The
performers, with frequent appearances by top terrace of the Spanish cultural center
the wonderfully surreal Astrid Haddad. has gained a reputation for its excellent
Afterwards, catch top-notch Cuban son weekend DJ sessions.
combos in La Bodegas various salons. Continental DJ Club (Map pp118-19; % 5525-
Bar El Vicio (Map p123; % 5659-1139; www 6268; www.continentaldjclub.com; Florencia 12; cover
.lasreinaschulas.com in Spanish; Madrid 13; cover $10-15; $15; h10pm-10am Wed-Sat; mInsurgentes) Mirror
%Coyoacn) Alternative cabaret with liberal balls, pulsing beats, hip dancers and video
doses of irreverent comedy and great projections keep after-hours scenemakers
music. hypnotized at this cutting-edge hall, known
Hexen-Caf (Map pp118-19; %5514-5969; Jalapa for its internationally acclaimed guest DJs.
104; cover free-$7; shows h8:30pm Thu-Sat; mInsur- Progressive house predominates, but there
gentes) This pocket of German culture has is variety.
an eclectic performance program, ranging Pink (Map pp120-1; % 5282-1635; Dumas 107;
from poetry marathons to Cuban jazz. cover $9.50; h7pm-4am Tue-Sat; mPolanco) A less
self-consciously hip venue than usual for
TROVA & TRADITIONAL Polanco, Pink is a party palace. Within a
Cafebrera El Pndulo (www.pendulo.com in Span- kitschily designed circular lounge, young
ish; cover varies; hshows from 9:30pm) Condesa (Map singles, along with the occasional artist or
pp118-19; %5286-9493; Av Nuevo Len 115; mChil- model, sip Pink martinis and sing along
pancingo); Zona Rosa (Map pp118-19; % 5208-2327; with hits en espaol.
Hamburgo 126; mInsurgentes); Polanco (Map pp120- Kubrik (Map p122; %5616-6972; Av de la Paz 39;
1; % 5280-4111; Dumas 81; m Polanco) Leading hfrom 10pm Thu-Sat; cover $9.50; mMiguel Angel de
Mexican trovadores play each branch of Quevado) This state-of-the-art club pulls in
this caf-bookstore. close to a thousand well-heeled hedonists
El Balcn Huasteco (Map pp110-11; %5341-6762; who lounge on its numerous sofas or jump
Sor Juana Ins de la Cruz 248, cnr Av de los Maestros; around on the levitating dance floor. Take
hfrom 6pm Thu-Sat; mNormal) A center for the metrobus La Bombilla to San ngel.
Huastec culture of Hidalgo and Veracruz, El Colmillo (Map pp114-15; %5592-6114; Versalles
this old house stages the regions finest 52; cover $9.50; hfrom 11pm Thu-Sat; mCuauhtmoc)
trios. There are wooden platforms for DJs crank the volume to coccyx-crunching
traditional zapateando dancing and snacks levels at this hallucinogenic hangout. Gyrate
from the area. to deep house, psychedelic trance etc; the
Cafe Corazn (Map p122; %5550-8854; Frontera cocktail list is equally varied. The more
4; cover $6-8; h9:30pm Fri & Sat; mMiguel Angel de subdued upstairs lounge has performance
Quevado) Folk singers in the Silvio Rodrguez events.
mold take the small stage at this temple of Pervert Lounge (Map pp114-15; %5510-4457; Uru-
trova near San ngels Plaza San Jacinto. guay 70; cover $9.50; h11pm-5am Thu-Sat; mIsabel
Catch metrobus La Bombilla. la Catlica) A magnet for 20-something
hipsters, the garage-like space offers kitschy
Dance & Electronica decor, two turntables and some very large
The capitals thriving club scene has become speakers.
an obligatory stop on the international DJ
circuit. To find out whats going on, pick Sports
up flyers at Condesas Malafama billiard SOCCER
hall (p168). The capital stages two or three ftbol
AM (Map pp118-19; %5286-8572; Nuevo Len 67; (soccer) matches in the national Primera
cover $9.50; hfrom 10pm Wed-Sat; mPatriotismo) Divisin almost every weekend of the year.
Condesas super-trendy new nightspot takes There are two seasons: January to June and
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August to December. Mexico City has four Its a few blocks west of Av Insurgentes.
teams: Amrica, nicknamed Las guilas Catch metrobus Ciudad de los Deportes.
(the Eagles), Las Pumas of UNAM, Cruz From November to March, professional
Azul and Atlante. The newspaper Esto has fights are held on Sunday from 4pm. From
the best coverage. June to October, junior matadors fight
The biggest match of all is El Clsico, be- young bulls. Six bulls are fought in an
tween Amrica and Guadalajara, filling the afternoon, two each by three matadors.
Estadio Azteca with 100,000 flag-waving The cheapest seats, less than $5, are in
fans an occasion surprising for the friend- the Sol General section the top tiers on
liness between rival fans. This is about the the sunny side of the arena. Seats in the
only game of the year when you should get Sombra General section, on the shady side,
tickets in advance. cost slightly more. The best seats are in the
Tickets ($7.50 to $40 for regular season Barreras, the seven front rows, and cost $50.
games) are usually available at the gate right Between the Barreras and General sections
up to game time, or from Ticketmaster (see are the Primer (1er) Tendido and Segundo
p170). There are several stadiums that host (2o) Tendido.
games. Except for the biggest corridas, tickets are
Estadio Azteca (Map pp110-11; %5617-8080; www available up to the killing of the third bull,
.esmas.com/estadioazteca in Spanish; Calz de Tlalpan though the best seats may sell out early.
3665) The countrys biggest stadium (capacity 114,000) You can buy advance tickets from 9:30am
is home to both the Amrica and Atlante clubs. Games to 2pm and 4pm to 7pm Saturday, and
are played on weekend afternoons; check the website for from 9:30am onward Sunday.
kickoff times. Take the Tren Ligero from metro Tasquea to For more on bullfights, see p66.
Estadio Azteca station.
Estadio Azul (Map pp110-11; %5563-9040; www LUCHA LIBRE (MEXICAN WRESTLING)
.cruz-azul.com.mx in Spanish; Indiana 260, Colonia Mexico Citys two wrestling venues, the
Npoles) The stadium is next door to the Plaza Mxico 17,000-seat Arena de Mxico (Map pp114-15; Dr
bullring. Cruz Azul home games kick off at 5pm on Lavista 189, Colonia Doctores; %5588-0266; tickets $3.50-
Saturday. Catch metrobus Ciudad de los Deportes. 7; h8:30pm Fri; mCuauhtmoc) and the smaller
Estadio Olmpico (Map pp110-11; %5522-0491; Arena Coliseo (Map pp114-15; %5526-1687; Repblica
www.pumasunam.com.mx in Spanish; Insurgentes Sur de Per 77; tickets $2-4; h7:30pm Tue, 5pm Sun; mLa-
3000, Ciudad Universitaria) Home of the Pumas; games gunilla) are taken over by a circus atmosphere
start at noon on Sunday. See p143 for directions. each week, with flamboyant luchadores
(wrestlers) like Shocker and Tarzan Boy
BASEBALL going at each other in teams or one-on-one.
Mexico City has one team in the Liga There are three or four bouts, building up
Mexicana de Bisbol, the Diablos Rojos to the most formidable match-ups.
(www.diablos.com.mx). During the regular
season (March to July), they play every other SHOPPING
week at the Foro Sol (Map pp110-11; %5764-8415; If you explore the public and street markets,
cnr Av Ro Churubusco & Viaducto Ro de la Piedad; tickets its common to negotiate a bit on the price.
$2-8; h 7pm Mon-Fri, 4pm Sat, noon Sun). From Before you start, consider what you are
Ciudad Deportiva station, on metro Lnea willing to pay, then offer that or a little less.
9, its a five-minute walk to the ballpark.
Markets
BULLFIGHTS Mexico Citys markets are worth visiting,
If youre not put off by the very concept, not just for their extraordinarily varied
a corrida de toros is quite a spectacle, contents, but also for a glimpse of the
from the milling throngs and hawkers out- frenetic business conducted within. Besides
side the arena to the pageantry and drama the major ones listed here, neighborhood
in the ring itself. markets (indicated by Mi Mercado signs)
One of the largest bullrings in the world, also make for an interesting wander.
Monumental Plaza Mxico (Map pp110-11; %5563- Mercado Insurgentes (Map pp118-19; Londres,
3961; Rodin 241, Colonia Nochebuena) is a deep Zona Rosa; h 9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm
concrete bowl holding 42,000 spectators. Sun; m Insurgentes) Between Florencia and
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Amberes, and packed with crafts silver, and small: books, beer trays, posters and
textiles, pottery, leather and carved wooden furniture. There is also a similar antiques
figures but youll need to bargain to get and art market along lvaro Obregn on
sensible prices. the same days
Centro de Artesanas La Ciudadela (Map pp114- Bazar del Oro (Map pp118-19; Calle de Oro, Roma;
15; Balderas, cnr Dond; h10am-6pm; mBalderas) A hWed, Sat & Sun; mInsurgentes) This upscale
favorite destination for good stuff from all street market between Insurgentes and
over Mexico. Worth seeking out are Oaxaca Plaza Cibeles has clothing, gifts and an
alebrijes whimsical representations of excellent eating section (see the boxed text,
animals in wood (local 6, northernmost p159). You can catch metrobus Durango.
aisle, near Balderas entrance); guitars from Jardn del Arte (Map pp118-19; btwn Sullivan
Paracho (local 64 off central patio); and & Villalongn; hSun) Also known as the Sullivan
Huichol beadwork (local 163, off Dond at Market, this one has a large selection of
parking entrance). Prices are generally fair paintings and art supplies, plus some food.
even before you bargain. Catch metrobus Reforma.
Mercado de Artesanas San Juan (Map pp114-15; Plaza del ngel (Map pp118-19; btwn Amberes & Flor-
Ayuntamiento, cnr Buen Tono; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am- encia, Zona Rosa; hSun; mInsurgentes) Sells antique
4pm Sun; mSan Juan de Letrn) Four blocks east of silverware, jewelry, furniture and art.
La Ciudadela, with similar goods and prices. Tepito (Map pp114-15; Hroe de Granaditas; hWed-
Part of the Mercado San Juan complex, it is Mon; mLagunilla) The mother of all street
noted for its local and specialty foods. markets: maze of semipermanent stalls
La Lagunilla (Map pp114-15; cnr Rayn & Allende; spreading east and north, between Eje 1
h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; m Garibaldi) Oriente and Reforma, from La Lagunilla,
This enormous co mplex comprises three with miles of clothes, pirated CDs and
buildings: building No 1 contains clothes DVDs and electronics. Also known as the
and fabrics, No 2 food, and No 3 furniture. Thieves Market for its black-market goods
Mercado de La Merced (Anillo de Circunvalacin, and pickpockets.
cnr General Anaya; h 8am-7pm; m Merced) This Tianguis Dominical de la Lagunilla (Map pp114-15;
occupies four whole blocks dedicated to cnr Gonzlez Bocanegra & Rayn; hSun; mGaribaldi)
the buying and selling of daily needs, and Hunt for antiques, old souvenirs and bric-
features photogenic food displays. a-brac; books and magazines are alongside
Mercado de Jamaica (Map pp110-11; cnr Guillermo the Lagunilla building. Look for exvoto
Prieto & Congreso de la Union, Colonia Jamaica; h8am-7pm; paintings by Alfredo Vilchis & Sons (or
mJamaica) A huge, colorful flower market. have your own miracles depicted).
The numerous stalls display both baroque
floral arrangements and more exotic blooms Shops
like tropical orchids and heliconias. The well-heeled residents of Mexico City
shop in modern malls with designer-
STREET MARKETS clothing stores and cosmeticians. Among
In most neighborhoods, youll find a tianguis the more accessible are Plaza Loreto (Map
(from the Nahua tianquiztli) at least once p122) in San ngel; Plaza Insurgentes (Map
a week selling the freshest fruits and pp11819), on Insurgentes at the edge of
vegetables, with vendors shouting out Que Colonia Roma; Plaza Coyoacn (Map p123)
le damos? (What can we give you?). Tianguis near metro Coyoacn; and Plaza Molire
generally set up by 10am and break down (Map pp1201), at Molire and Horacio
around 5pm. in Polanco.
Bazar Artesanal de Coyoacn (Map p123; Plaza Fonart Mixcoc (Map pp110-11; % 5563-4060;
Hidalgo, Coyoacn; h Sat & Sun; m Viveros) Has Patriotismo 691; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;
handmade hippie jewelry and indigenous m Mixcoc); Alameda (Map pp114-15; % 5521-0171;
crafts, jugglers, fortune-tellers, candles and Jurez 89; h 10am-7pm; m Hidalgo); Reforma (Map
incense. pp118-19; %5328-5000, ext 53089; Paseo de la Reforma
Bazar de la Roma (Map pp118-19; Parque Ignacio 116; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat; mCuauh-
Chvez & lvaro Obregn, Colonia Roma; hSat & Sun; tmoc) The government-run handicrafts
mCuauhtmoc) East of Av Cuauhtmoc, this store sells quality wares from around the
market has used and antique items, large country, from Olinal lacquered boxes
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to Teotitln del Valle blankets, as well as along Bolvar. To the north, theres cos-
pottery and glassware. Prices are fixed tume jewelry on Repblica de Colombia
and fair. The largest branch is the one in and Venezuela streets and beauty products
Mixcoc. along Calle del Carmen. Going east, there
Bazar Sbado (Map p122; Plaza San Jacinto 11, San are tons of tools along Corregidora. Look
ngel; h10am-7pm Sat; mMiguel Angel de Quevado) for underwear down Correo Mayor, and
The bazaar showcases some of Mexicos bicycles on San Pablo west of Mercado La
best handcrafted jewelry, woodwork, cer- Merced.
amics and textiles. Prices are high but so Hundreds of computer stores huddle in
is quality. Artists and artisans also display the Plaza de la Computacin y Electrnica (Map
work in Plaza San Jacinto itself, and in pp114-15; Eje Central Lzaro Crdenas; mSan Juan de
nearby Plaza del Carmen. Between the two Letrn), south of Uruguay.
plazas are some interesting boutiques and Tucked away in the backstreets are some
antique shops, many open daily, including special items.
the Casa del Obispo (Map p122). Dulcera de Celaya (h10:30am-7pm) Centro Histrico
(Map pp114-15; %5521-1787; Av 5 de Mayo 39;
CENTRO HISTRICO mAllende); Colonia Roma (Map pp118-19; %5207-
Mexico Citys most upscale department 5858; Colima 143; mInsurgentes) Traditional candy store
chains, El Palacio de Hierro (Map pp114-15; operating since 1874 with candied fruits and coconut-
%5728-9905; Av 20 de Noviembre 3; mZcalo) and stuffed lemons; worth a look just for the ornate building.
Liverpool (Map pp114-15; %5133-2800; Venustiano Hoja Real (Map pp114-15; %5518-5200; Uruguay 12;
Carranza 92; m Zcalo) both maintain their mSan Juan de Letrn) Cigars from San Andrs, Veracruz.
original c-1930s stores downtown. La Europea (Map pp114-15; %5512-6005; Ayun-
The streets around the Zcalo are lined tamiento 25; mSan Juan de Letrn) Big selection of
with stores specializing in everyday goods; reasonably priced tequilas and wines.
youll find clusters of shops selling similar Palacio de las Mscaras (Map pp114-15; %5529-
items on the same street. To the west, photo- 2849; Allende 84; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; mGaribaldi)
graphy supplies and used books show up More than 5000 masks from all over the country; Lagunilla
on Donceles, sports gear and backpacks on market area.
Venustiano Carranza, and perfumes along
Tacuba. Jewelry and gold outlets, as well ZONA ROSA
as numismatists shops, are found along La This area has a variety of boutiques aimed
Palma, while opticians are sighted along at tourists. Between Gnova and Florencia
Madero. To the south, shoes show up on are a couple of arcades with access from
Pino Surez and Av 20 de Noviembre; Hamburgo or Londres. Plaza La Rosa is a
and electric guitars and other instruments good place to look for clothes. Plaza del

TIANGUIS CULTURAL DEL CHOPO


One of the weirder street markets in town, the Tianguis Cultural del Chopo (Map pp110-11;
Calle Juan Nepomuceno; h10am-4pm Sat; mBuenavista) is a gathering place for the citys various
youth subcultures. Punks, goths, metalheads and all the other urban tribes gravitate here each
Saturday to buy and trade CDs, hear live bands, find out about upcoming events and exchange
ideas. Established in 1980 at the Museo Universitario del Chopo, it moved eight years later to
its current location near the now-defunct Buenavista railroad station, and has been thriving ever
since. Of the hundreds of vendor stalls that extend along two aisles for several blocks, most are
devoted to music CDs, with many specializing in subgenres like progressive rock, hardcore and
ska. One vendor, Ramn Garca Bolaos, on the west side near the entrance to the market, has
more than 3000 discs of rock mexicano on offer. Theres an art gallery, a book club with poetry
readings, and a stall for NGOs dealing with the environment and animal rights. At the far end
is a concert stage for young-and-hungry bands, plus a trading post where people bring crates
of CDs to swap.
Anyone interested in plugging into Mexicos alternative currents should roam amid this temple
of the counterculture, as commentator Carlos Monsivais termed it.
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ngel has a number of classy antique and platforms adjacent to Sala E (see the table,
art shops; more are strung along Amberes p180). Ticket counters are on the upper
and Estocolmo. Insurgentes is the closest level, off the food court.
metro stop to these plazas.
AIRLINE OFFICES
POLANCO Aero California (Map pp118-19; %5207-1392; Paseo
Designer-clothing houses line Presidente de la Reforma 332, Zona Rosa; mInsurgentes)
Masaryk in the blocks west of Anatole Aeromar (Map pp118-19; %5514-2248, 800-237-66-
France. More boutiques occupy the Pasaje 27; Sheraton Mara Isabel Hotel, Paseo de la Reforma 325;
Polanco (Map pp1201) and nearby mInsurgentes)
streets. Aeromxico (%5133-4010) Jurez (Map pp114-15;
Paseo de la Reforma 80; mJurez); Zona Rosa (Map
GETTING THERE & AWAY pp118-19; Paseo de la Reforma 445; mCuauhtmoc)
Drop into the Instituto Nacional de Migracin Air Canada (Map pp1201; %9138-0289, ext 2228,
(Map pp120-1; %2581-0000, ext 32005; Ejrcito Nacional 800-719-28-27; 13th fl, Blvd vila Camacho 1, Colonia
862, Polanco; h9am-1:30pm Mon-Fri; mPolanco) to Lomas de Chapultepec; mAuditorio)
get your tourist card stamped or check what Air France (Map pp1201; %2122-8200, 800-123-
other documents are needed. 46-60; 8th fl, Jaime Balmes 8, Colonia Los Morales;
Note that all passenger train services mPolanco)
from Mexico City have been discontinued. Alitalia (Map pp118-19; %5533-1240, 800-012-59-00;
6th fl, Ro Tber 103, Colonia Cuauhtmoc; mInsurgentes)
Air American Airlines (Map pp118-19; %5209-1400;
Aeropuerto Internacional Benito Jurez (Map Paseo de la Reforma 300, Zona Rosa; mInsurgentes)
pp110-11; %5571-3600; www.aicm.com.mx in Spanish), Aviacsa (%5716-9005, 800-006-22-00; Airport)
6km east of the Zcalo, is Mexico Citys Avianca (Map pp118-19; %5546-3073, 800-705-79-00;
only passenger airport. Recent renovations Paseo de la Reforma 195; mInsurgentes)
have expanded its capacity to 30 million British Airways (Map pp1201; %5387-0300; 14th fl,
passengers annually, making it the largest Jaime Balmes 8, Colonia Los Morales; mPolanco)
airport in Latin America. See p988 for in- Continental Airlines (Map pp1201; %5283-5500,
formation on international flights and p996 800-900-50-00; Andrs Bello 45, Polanco; mAuditorio)
for information on domestic flights. See Copa Airlines (Map pp118-19; %5241-2000; Berna 6;
p989 for airlines serving Mexico City. mInsurgentes)
The single terminal is divided into eight Cubana (Map pp1201; %5250-6355; Sol y Son Viajes,
salas (halls): Homero 613, Polanco; mPolanco)
Sala A Domestic arrivals. Delta Airlines (Map pp118-19; %5279-0909, 800-123-
Sala B Check-in for Aeromxico, Mexicana and Aero 47-78; Paseo de la Reforma 381; mSevilla)
California; Hotel Camino Real access. Iberia (Map pp1201; %1101-1515; Ejrcito Nacional
Sala C Check-in for Aviacsa. 436, Colonia Chapultepec Morales; mPolanco)
Sala D Check-in for Azteca and Magnicharters. Japan Air Lines (Map pp118-19; %5242-0150, 800-
Sala E2 International arrivals. 024-01-50; 36th fl, Torre Mayor, Paseo de la Reforma 505;
Sala F & J Check-in for international flights. mChapultepec)
Sala G International departures. KLM/Northwest (Map pp1201; %5279-5390; 11th fl,
Andrs Bello 45, Polanco; mAuditorio)
The terminals shops and facilities include Lineas Areas Azteca (Map pp118-19; %5716-8989,
numerous casas de cambio; Tamibe (%5726- 800-229-83-22; Niza 17, Zona Rosa; mInsurgentes)
0578) in Sala E2 stays open 24 hours. Peso- Lufthansa (Map pp1201; 5230-0000; Paseo de las
dispensing ATMs on the Cirrus and Plus Palmas 239, Colonia Lomas de Chapultepec;
networks are easily found. mAuditorio)
Telmex card phones and Internet Magnicharters (Map pp114-15; %5141-1351; Donato
terminals abound; cards are available from Guerra 9, cnr Bucareli; mJurez)
shops and machines. Car-rental agencies Mexicana (%5448-0990, 800-502-20-00) Jurez (Map
and luggage lockers (up to 24hr $5; h24hr) are in pp114-15; Jurez 82, cnr Balderas; mJurez); Zona Rosa
Salas A and E2. (Map pp118-19; Paseo de la Reforma 312, cnr Amberes;
Direct buses to Cuernavaca, Quertaro, mInsurgentes) Los Morales (Map pp120-1; Pabelln
Toluca, Puebla and Crdoba depart from Polanco Shopping Mall, Ejrcito Nacional 980)
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MEXICO CIT Y
United Airlines (Map pp118-19; %5627-0222, 800- See the table, p180 for a list of daily services
00-30-777; Hamburgo 213, Zona Rosa; mSevilla) from Mexico City. More information can be
found in other town and city sections of this
Bus book. Its all subject to change, of course.
Mexico City has four long distancebus Check schedules by phoning the bus lines
terminals serving the four compass points: or by visiting their (sometimes functional)
Terminal Norte (north), Terminal Oriente websites.
(called TAPO, east), Terminal Poniente ADO Group (%5133-2424, 800-702-80-00; www
(west) and Terminal Sur (south). All .ticketbus.com.mx) Includes ADO, ADO GL, UNO, OCC, AU.
terminals have baggage-check services or Autovas, Herradura de Plata (%5567-4550)
lockers ($1 to $5 per item), as well as tourist Estrella Blanca Group (%5729-0707) Includes Futura,
information modules, newsstands, card Elite, Turistar.
phones, Internet, ATMs and snack bars. For Estrella de Oro (%5689-3955; www.estrelladeoro.com
directions to the bus stations, see p184. .mx in Spanish)
There are also buses to nearby cities from Estrella Roja (%5130-1800, 800-712-22-84; www
the airport (see the table, p180). .estrellaroja.com.mx in Spanish)
For trips up to five hours, it usually ETN (%5089-9200, 800-800-0386; www.etn.com.mx)
suffices to go to the bus station, buy your Omnibus de Mxico (%5141-4300, 800-765-6636;
ticket and go. For longer trips, many buses www.odm.com.mx in Spanish)
leave in the evening and may well sell out, Primera Plus, Flecha Amarilla (%5567-7176, 800-
so buy your ticket beforehand. 375-7587; www.primeraplus.com.mx in Spanish)
One helpful resource is Ticketbus (%5133- Pullman de Morelos (%5549-3505; www.pullman
2424, 800-702-80-00, from US %800-95-00-287; www .com.mx in Spanish)
.ticketbus.com.mx), an agency that reserves and
sells tickets for more than a dozen bus lines TERMINAL NORTE
out of all four stations. For ADO GL, UNO Largest of the four, the Terminal Central de
and ETN, Ticketbus offers purchase by Autobuses del Norte (Map pp110-11; %5587-1552)
phone or Internet with Visa or MasterCard serves points north, including cities on the US
(plus $4 service fee per ticket). In addition border, plus some points west (Guadalajara,
to the Ticketbus locations below, a couple Puerto Vallarta), east (Puebla, Veracruz)
more are inside the international departures and south (Acapulco, Oaxaca). Over 30 bus
terminal at the airport. Outlets are open companies have services here. Deluxe and
9am or 10am to 2:30pm, and 3:30pm to 1st-class counters are mostly in the southern
7pm or 8pm Monday to Friday, and 9am or half of the terminal. Luggage-storage services
10am to 2pm or 3pm Saturday. are at the far south end (open 24 hours) and
Buenavista(Map pp114-15; Buenavista 9; mRevolucin) in the central passageway; the latter section
Centro Histrico (Map pp114-15; Isabel la Catlica 83E; contains a hotel-booking agency.
mIsabel la Catlica)
Condesa (Map pp118-19; Iztacchuatl 6, cnr Insurgentes; TERMINAL ORIENTE
mChilpancingo) Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente
Polanco (Map pp1201; Presidente Masaryk, cnr Hegel; (Map pp110-11; % 5762-5977), usually called
mPolanco) TAPO, serves points east and southeast,
Reforma (Map pp118-19; Paseo de la Reforma 412; including Puebla, Veracruz, Yucatn, Oaxaca
mSevilla) Across from La Diana Cazadora. and Chiapas. Bus-line counters are arranged
Roma Norte (Map pp118-19; Puebla 46; mCuauhtmoc) around a rotunda with a restaurant and In-
Roma Norte (Map pp118-19; Mrida 156; mHospital ternet terminals at the center. Theres an
General) ATM outside the AU counters and luggage
Zcalo (Map pp114-15; Turismo Zcalo, Venustiano lockers in Tunnel 3 beside Estrella Roja.
Carranza 67; mZcalo)
TERMINAL PONIENTE
For certain destinations you have a choice Terminal Central de Autobuses del Poniente (Map
of terminals, thus avoiding the need to pp110-11; %5271-4519) is the departure point
travel across town for connections. Oaxaca, for buses heading to Michoacn and shuttle
for example, is served by TAPO, Sur and services running to nearby Toluca. In add-
Norte terminals. ition, ETN offers service to Guadalajara.
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MEXICO CIT Y

BUSES FROM MEXICO CITY


Destination Duration Terminal in Class Bus Company Daily Price
Mexico City Departures

Acapulco 5hr Sur executive Estrella de Oro 7 $41


deluxe Estrella de Oro every 30min $29
1st Futura every 30min $28
5am-8pm
Norte 1st Futura hourly $28
Bahas de 14-15hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe ADO GL 1 $62
Huatulco Norte 1st OCC 1 $46
Sur 1st Futura 2 $44
Campeche 16-17hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe ADO GL 1 $82
1st ADO 5 $69
Norte 1st ADO 1 $69
Cancn 24hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe ADO GL 1 $111
1st ADO 4 $92
Norte 1st ADO 2 $92
Chetumal 20hr Oriente (TAPO) 1st ADO 3 $75
Chihuahua 18hr 1st mnibus de Mxico 10 $100
Ciudad Jurez 24hr 1st mnibus de Mxico 10 $115
Cuernavaca 1hr Sur executive Pullman de Morelos every 30min to $6.50
8:30pm
deluxe Pullman de Morelos every 15min $5.50
to 11pm
Airport 1st Pullman de Morelos every 30min or $10
40min to 8pm
Guadalajara 7hr Norte deluxe ETN 23 $51
1st Primera Plus 28 $40
Poniente deluxe ETN 6 $51
Guanajuato 5hr Norte deluxe ETN 9 $30
1st Primera Plus 11 $25
Matamoros 14hr Norte 1st Transportes del Norte 4 $65
Mazatln 14hr 1st Elite hourly $74
Mrida 19hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe ADO GL 1 $91
1st ADO 4 $78
Norte 1st ADO 2 $78
Mexicali 37hr Norte 1st Elite 19 $139
Monterrey 12hr Norte deluxe Turistar 7 $80
1st Transportes del Norte 20 $61
Morelia 4hr Poniente deluxe ETN every 30min $27
Norte 1st Primera Plus 19 $21
Nogales 36hr Norte 1st Elite 13 $131
Nuevo Laredo 15hr Norte deluxe Turistar 4 $97
1st Futura 10 $75
Oaxaca 6hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 5 $46
deluxe ADO GL 7+ $33
ADO 16+ $28
Sur 1st OCC 3 $28
Norte 1st ADO 5+ $26
deluxe ADO GL 1 $33
Palenque 13hr Oriente (TAPO) 1st ADO 1+ $55
Norte 1st ADO 1 $55
Papantla 5hr Norte 1st ADO 7 $16
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MEXICO CIT Y
Destination Duration Terminal in Class Bus Company Daily Price
Mexico City Departures

Ptzcuaro 5hr Poniente 1st Autovas 11 $24


Norte 1st Primera Plus 2 $24
Autovas 2 $24
Puebla 2hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe Estrella Roja every 40min $9
1st Estrella Roja every 20min $8.50
Norte 1st ADO every 30min $8.50
Airport deluxe Estrella Roja hourly $12
Puerto 18hr Sur 1st OCC 1 $46
Escondido 1st Futura 3 $41
Norte 1st OCC 1 $46
Puerto Vallarta 12hr Norte 1st Futura 4 $66
Quertaro 3hr Norte deluxe ETN every 20min or $18
30min
1st Primera Plus every 20min $16
Poniente 1st Primera Plus 5 $15
Airport 1st Primera Plus 21 $20
San Cristbal 14hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 1 $91
de Las Casas deluxe ADO GL 2 $73
Norte deluxe ADO GL 1 $73
1st OCC 1 $61
San Luis Potos 5hr Norte deluxe ETN hourly $35
1st Primera Plus 10 $29
San Miguel 4hr Norte deluxe ETN 4 $23
de Allende 1st Primera Plus 3 $19
Tapachula 16-18hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 1 (Fri-Sun) $91
deluxe ADO GL 2 $74
Sur 1st OCC 1 $64
Taxco 2hr Sur deluxe Estrella de Oro 2 $10
1st Futura hourly $10
Teotihuacn 1hr Norte 2nd Autobuses Teotihuacn every 15min $2.50
7am-6pm
Tepoztln 1hr Sur 1st OCC every 40min $5.50
1st Estrella Roja (to caseta) every 20min $5
7am-10pm
Tijuana 41hr Norte 1st Elite 17 $155
Toluca 1hr Poniente deluxe ETN every 20min or $4.50
30min
2nd Flecha Roja every 10min to $3
11:30pm
Airport deluxe TMT Caminante hourly $9.50
Tula 1hr Norte 1st AVM every 40min $4.50
Tuxtla 12-13hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 1+ $83
Gutirrez deluxe ADO GL 3+ $68
1st ADO 1+ $57
Norte 1st OCC 1+ $57
Uruapan 6hr Poniente deluxe ETN 8 $34
1st Autovas 12 $29
Norte 1st Primera Plus 5 $30
Veracruz 5hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 5 $39
deluxe ADO GL 10+ $28
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BUSES FROM MEXICO CITY (CONTINUATION)


Destination Duration Terminal in Class Bus Company Daily Price
Mexico City Departures

Veracruz (continued) 1st ADO hourly $24


7hr 2nd AU hourly $20
Norte 1st ADO 6+ $24
Villahermosa 10hr Oriente (TAPO) executive UNO 2 $80
deluxe ADO GL 7 $57
1st ADO 19+ $48
Norte deluxe ADO GL 1 $57
1st ADO 8+ $48
Xalapa 4hr Oriente (TAPO) deluxe UNO 5 $28
deluxe ADO GL 7+ $20
1st ADO 19+ $17
Norte 1st ADO 3+ $17
Zacatecas 8hr Norte 1st mnibus de Mxico 18 $40
Zihuatanejo 9hr Sur executive Estrella de Oro 1 $50
deluxe Estrella de Oro 4 $40
1st Futura 4 $40
Poniente 1st Autovas 2 $37

Note: + indicates additional departures on weekends

TERMINAL SUR %5250-8221 and tell them your location.


Terminal Central del Sur (Map p123; %5689-9745) For more information, see p1002.
serves Tepoztln, Cuernavaca, Taxco,
Acapulco and other southern destinations, ROUTES IN & OUT OF THE CITY
as well as Oaxaca, Huatulco and Ixtapa- Whichever way you come in, once past the
Zihuatanejo. Estrella de Oro (Acapulco, last caseta (toll booth) you enter a no-mans
Taxco) and Pullman de Morelos (Cuer- land of poorly marked lanes and chaotic
navaca) counters are on the right side of traffic. These casetas are also the points
the terminal, while OCC and Estrella Roja from which Hoy No Circula rules take
(Tepoztln) are on the left side of the ter- effect (see p186).
mial. In Sala 1, youll find a left-luggage
service, agents booking Acapulco hotels East
and an ATM. From Puebla, the highway eventually feeds
traffic left into Ignacio Zaragoza. Stay on
Car & Motorcycle Zaragoza for about 10km, then move left
RENTAL and follow signs for Ro de la Piedad (aka
Car-rental companies have offices at the Viaducto Miguel Alemn), exiting left after
airport and in the Zona Rosa. Rates gen- the metro crosses the highway. From the
erally start at about $50 per day, but you Viaducto, exits access all the key areas. Get
will often do better by booking ahead via off at Viaducto Tlalpan to reach the Zcalo.
the Internet. Av Monterrey goes through Colonia Roma
Avis (Map pp118-19; %5511-2228; Paseo de la Reforma and the Zona Rosa.
308; mInsurgentes) Coming out of the airport, head south
Thrifty (Map pp118-19; %5207-1100; Paseo de la along Blvd Puerto Areo. After you cross
Reforma 322; mInsurgentes) Zaragoza, watch for signs to Ro de la
Piedad and Viaducto Alemn.
ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE Heading for Puebla, Oaxaca or Veracruz,
The ngeles Verdes (Green Angels) can pro- take the Viaducto Alemn east. This is most
vide assistance from 8am to 8pm. Phone conveniently accessed off Av Cuauhtmoc,
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MEXICO CIT Y
the southern extension of Bucareli (Eje 1 take the exit for Reforma). Constituyentes
Poniente). Immediately after crossing over passes under the Circuito Interior near
the Viaducto just before the Liverpool the eastern end of Bosque de Chapultepec.
department store turn left for the access Turn left after the underpass to pick up the
ramp. Take the Viaducto to Av Zaragoza, Circuito, then follow signs for Reforma to
then follow the signs for Oaxaca until you get to the Zona Rosa and downtown. Or,
join the Puebla highway. continue straight ahead on Juan Escutia
(Eje 2 Sur) right into Condesa. Heading
North west out of the city, take Av Chapultepec
From Quertaro, the last toll booth as you to Constituyentes, then follow the signs
approach the city is at Tepotzotln. Con- for the cuota (toll highway) or libre to
tinue south, following signs for Cd Satlite Toluca.
and Toreo. Beyond the skyscraper sculp-
tures marking the gateway to Satlite, move GETTING AROUND
into the lateral at the first signs indicating Mexico City has an inexpensive, easy-to-use
the Ro San Joaqun exit, which appears metro and an equally cheap and practical
just north of the giant dome of the Toreo bus system plying all the main routes.
arena. Take this exit; the ramp curves left Taxis are plentiful, but some are potentially
over the Perifrico. Keep right as you go hazardous (see p127).
over, then follow signs for Circuito In-
terior. After passing the Corona factory, To/From the Airport
take the Thiers exit. Keep left, following The metro is convenient to the airport,
signs for Reforma, and youll end up on Ro though hauling luggage amid rush-hour
Misisipi, which intersects Reforma at the La crowds can be a Herculean task. Authorized
Diana roundabout. Turn left on Reforma taxis provide a painless, relatively inexpen-
to get to the Centro Histrico, or continue sive alternative.
straight ahead for Colonia Roma.
Leaving the city, the simplest option is to METRO
take Reforma to the west end of Bosque de The airport metro station is Terminal
Chapultepec, then a right exit to pick up the Area, on Lnea 5 (yellow). Its 200m from
Perifrico northbound. the terminal: leave by the exit at the end
From Pachuca, Hidalgo and northern of Sala A (domestic arrivals) and continue
Veracruz, the inbound route is one of the past the taxi stand, to the station.
easiest, if no less chaotic, since the highway To the city center, follow signs for Direc-
feeds into Av Insurgentes; follow signs for cin Politcnico; at La Raza (seven stops
the Centro Histrico and Zona Rosa. Leav- away) change for Lnea 3 (green) toward
ing the city, take Insurgentes north (also the Direccin Universidad. Metro Hidalgo, at
route to Teotihuacn). the west end of the Alameda, is three stops
south; its also a transfer point for Lnea 2
South (blue) to the Zcalo.
After the last caseta on the autopista from To get to the Zona Rosa from the airport,
Cuernavaca, continue straight, taking a right take Lnea 5 to Pantitl the end of the
exit for Calz Tlalpan (some signs are hidden line. Change for Lnea 1 (pink) and get off
behind trees). Calz Tlalpan eventually feeds at metro Insurgentes.
into Av 20 de Noviembre, which ends at the Going to the airport, take the Av Aero-
Zcalo. Leaving town, turn right (south) puerto Municipal exit on the Direccin
at the Zcalo onto Pino Surez, which be- Politcnico side, and proceed directly to the
comes Calz Tlalpan. Follow Tlalpan about terminal.
20km south, then watch for a Y where signs
point left for the autopista. TAXI
Steer clear of street cabs outside the airport.
West Safe and reliable Transporte Terrestre
Coming from Toluca, about 4km past taxis, recognizable by their yellow doors
the high-rises of Santa Fe, keep right and and airplane logos, are controlled by a
follow signs for Av Constituyentes (dont fixed-price ticket system.
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Purchase taxi tickets from booths labeled ADO Groups deluxe lines (UNO, ADO
Sitio 300 (those labeled ProTaxi sell tickets GL) run a shuttle service, called Citibus, to/
for Suburban van taxis), located in Sala E2 from area hotels and to (not from) the air-
(international arrivals), on your left as you port. There are six departures from Monday
exit customs, and by the Sala A (domestic to Friday to the Hotel del ngel (Ro Lerma 154)
arrivals) exit. Fares are determined by zones and eight to the airport (fewer on week-
(shown on a map next to the booth). A ride ends). Purchase tickets ($3.75) at TAPO
to the Zcalo or Alameda Central is $12, to or the hotel. Contact Ticketbus (p179) for
the Zona Rosa or Plaza de la Repblica $15. schedules and other pickup locations.
One ticket is valid for up to four passengers
and luggage that will fit in the trunk. TERMINAL PONIENTE
Taxi stands for the Sitio 300 taxis are out- Observatorio metro station, the eastern
side Salas A and E. Porters may offer to take terminus of Lnea 1 (pink), is a couple of
your ticket and luggage the few steps to the minutes walk across a busy street (the ped-
taxi, but hold on to the ticket and hand it to estrian bridge has been closed until further
the driver. Drivers wont expect a tip for the notice). A taxi ticket to Colonia Roma costs
ride, but will of course welcome one. $6.50; to the Zcalo its $9.
To reserve a Transporte Terrestre taxi
to the airport call %5571-9344; fares are TERMINAL SUR
slightly higher in this direction. Terminal Sur is a two-minute walk from
metro Tasquea, the southern terminus of
To/From the Bus Terminals Lnea 2 which stops at the Zcalo. For the
The metro is the fastest and cheapest way to Zona Rosa, transfer at Pino Surez and take
any bus terminal, but its tricky to maneuver Lnea 1 to Insurgentes (Direccin Observa-
through crowded stations and cars. Taxis are torio). Going to the terminal, take the Auto-
an easier option, but avoid street cabs outside buses del Sur exit, which leads upstairs to a
the terminals. Fortunately, all terminals have footbridge. Descend the last staircase on the
ticket booths for taxis autorizados, with left to reach the terminal.
fares set by zone ($2 from 9pm or 10pm to Authorized taxis from Terminal Sur
6am). An agent at the exit will assign you a cost $9 to the Zona Rosa; $8 to the Centro
cab. Ignore hustlers who tell you there are no Histrico. Ticket booths are by the main
authorized cabs left, or who try to take your exit and in Sala 3.
ticket before you reach the taxi.
Bicycle
TERMINAL NORTE Though not commonly used as transport
Metro Lnea 5 (yellow) stops at Autobuses in Mexico City (except by delivery boys),
del Norte, just outside the terminal. To the bicycles are a viable way to get around and
center, follow signs for Direccin Pantitln, are often quicker and more pleasant than
then change at La Raza for Lnea 3 (green) to- riding on overcrowded, recklessly driven
ward Direccin Universidad. (The La Raza buses. Although careless drivers and pot-
connection is a six-minute hike through a holes can make DF cycling an extreme
Tunnel of Science.) sport, if you stay alert and keep off the
The taxi kiosk is in the central passageway; major thoroughfares, its manageable.
a cab for up to four people to the Alameda or The recently completed ciclova is an
Zcalo costs $8; to Colonia Roma, $7.50. extensive bike trail that follows the old
bed of the Cuernavaca railroad as far as
TERMINAL ORIENTE (TAPO) the Morelos border. It extends from Av
This bus terminal is next door to metro Ejrcito Nacional in Polanco through the
San Lzaro. To the center or Zona Rosa, Bosque de Chapultepec, skirting the Per-
take Lnea 1 (pink) toward Direccin ifrico freeway from La Feria to Av San
Observatorio. Antonio, with several steep bridges pass-
The authorized taxi booth is at the top ing over the freeways. The trail then con-
(metro) end of the main passageway from tinues south to the Parque Ecolgico de
the rotunda. The fare to the Zcalo is $5.50; la Ciudad de Mxico, for a total distance
to the Zona Rosa, $6.50. of 90km.
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Another path follows Av Chapultepec fares, in 2005 the city installed the metro-
along a protected median from Bosque bus on Av Insurgentes. Where once a
de Chapultepec to the Centro Histrico, motley assortment of smoke-belching
though a detour through the streets of buses competed for passengers along this
Colonia Roma is ignored by motorists. A northsouth artery, now a uniform fleet of
third route runs along Paseo de la Reforma 24m-long Volvo vehicles plies a dedicated
from the Auditorio Nacional to the Museo inner lane. The metrobus stops at metro-
Rufino Tamayo. Follow the red stripe. style stations amid the traffic, spaced at
Bicitekas (www.bicitekas.org in Spanish) is an three- to four-block intervals. Access is
urban cycling group that organizes rides by prepaid card, issued by machines at
starting from the Monumento a la Inde- the entrance to the platforms, and rides
pendencia at 9pm every Wednesday, and cost $0.30. Rechargeable cards ($0.80) are
from the Zcalo at 10am Sunday. Groups placed on a sensor device for entry. The
of up to 100 cyclists ride to destinations like metrobus runs round the clock, though
Coyoacn and Ciudad Satlite. Participants frequency is reduced to every 20 minutes
must be sufficiently robust to handle treks between midnight and 5am, when the fare
of up to 40km. Helmets and rear lights are increases to $0.50.
required. Pesero routes ply practically every street
The website Bicimapas (www.bicimapas.com.mx that crisscrosses the Centro Histrico grid,
in Spanish) has maps for bicycling in the Valle while trolleybuses follow a number of the
de Mxico. key ejes (priority roads) throughout the rest
Rent bicycles at Taller de Bicicletas Orozco of the city.
(Map pp118-19; %5286-3582; Av Mxico 13A; h10:30am- Some useful routes are listed below.
8pm Tue-Sun; mSevilla), at Parque Mxico in Autobuses del Sur & Autobuses del Norte
Condesa. Prices are $2.75 per hour or $19 trolleybus: Eje Central Lzaro Cardenas between north and
per day (ID plus deposit required), with bet- south bus terminals (stops at Plaza de las Tres Culturas;
ter rates for longer periods. Plaza Garibaldi; Bellas Artes/Alameda; metro Hidalgo)
Metro Hidalgo-La Villa bus or pesero: Paseo de la
Bus, Pesero & Trolleybus Reforma between Auditorio Nacional or metro Chapultepec
Mexico Citys thousands of buses and and Baslica de Guadalupe (stops at Zona Rosa; Av Insur-
peseros (also called microbuses or combis) gentes; Alameda/metro Hidalgo; Plaza Garibaldi; Plaza de
operate from around 5am till 8pm or 9pm las Tres Culturas)
daily; electric trolleybuses until 11:30pm. Metro Sevilla-P Masaryk pesero: Between Colonia
Only a few routes run all night, notably Roma and Polanco via Av lvaro Obregn and Av Presi-
those along Paseo de la Reforma and the dente Masaryk (stops at metro Nios Hroes; Av Insur-
new metrobus along Av Insurgentes. This gentes; metro Sevilla; Leibnitz)
means youll get anywhere by bus and/or Metro Tacubaya-Balderas-Escandn pesero: Between
metro during the day but will probably have Centro Histrico and Condesa, westbound via Puebla, east-
to take a few taxis after hours. bound via Durango (stops at Plaza San Juan; metro Balderas;
Peseros are generally gray-and-green metro Insurgentes; Parque Espaa; Av Michoacn)
minibuses operated by private firms. They
follow fixed routes, often starting or ending Car & Motorcycle
at metro stations, and will stop at virtually Touring Mexico City by car is strongly
any street corner. Route information is ran- discouraged, unless you have a healthy reserve
domly displayed on cards attached to the of stamina and patience. Even more than
windshield. Fares are $0.25 for trips of up elsewhere in the country, traffic rules are seen
to 5km, $0.30 for 5km to 12km and $0.40 as suggested behavior. Red lights may be run
for more than 12km. Add 20% to all fares at will, no-turn signs are ignored and signals
between 11pm and 6am. Municipally oper- are seldom used. On occasion you may be hit
ated full-size orange buses (labeled RTP) by the bogus traffic fine, a routine means for
and trolleybuses only pick up at bus stops; traffic cops to increase their miserly salaries.
fares are $0.20 (exact change only) regard- Nevertheless, you may want to rent a car here
less of distance traveled. for travel outside the city. Avoid parking on
Seeking to alleviate traffic along one the street; most midrange and top-end hotels
of the capitals most congested thorough- have guest garages.
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DRIVING RESTRICTIONS sidad and so on name the stations at the


To help combat pollution, Mexico City ends of the lines. Check a map for the
operates its Hoy No Circula (Dont Drive direction you want. Buy a boleto (ticket),
Today) program, banning many vehicles or several, at the taquilla (ticket window),
from being driven in the city between 5am feed it into the turnstile, and youre on
and 10pm on one day each week. Cars under your way. When changing trains, look for
10 years old (supposedly less polluting) Correspondencia (Transfer) signs. Maps
with a calcomana de verificacin (verifica- of the vicinity around each station are
tion hologram sticker) are exempted. This posted near the exits.
sticker is obtained under the citys vehicle-
pollution assessment system. Taxi
For other vehicles (including foreign- Mexico City has several classes of taxi.
registered ones), the last digit of the license Cheapest are the cruising street cabs, mostly
plate numbers determine the day when they Volkswagen Beetles but also Nissans and
cannot circulate. Any car may operate on other Japanese models. These are not recom-
Saturday and Sunday. mended due to the risk of assaults (see p127).
If you must hail a cab off the street, check
Day Prohibited last digits that it has actual taxi license plates: numbers
begin with the letter L (for libre, or free),
Monday 5, 6 and a green stripe runs along the bottom.
Tuesday 7, 8 Check that the number on them matches the
Wednesday 3, 4 number painted on the bodywork. Also look
Thursday 1, 2 for the carta de identificacin (also called the
Friday 9, 0 tarjetn), a postcard-sized ID that should be
displayed visibly inside the cab, and ensure
Metro that the driver matches the photo. If the cab
The metro system offers the quickest way to youve hailed does not pass these tests, get
get around Mexico City. About 3.9 million another.
people ride the metro on an average week- In libre cabs, fares are computed by
day, making it the worlds fourth-busiest taxmetro (meter), which should start at 5.8
subway. It has 175 stations and 177km of to 6.4 pesos ($0.50 to $0.60). The total cost of
track on 11 lines. Trains arrive every two to a 2km or 3km ride in moderate traffic say,
three minutes during rush hours. At $0.20 a from the Zcalo to the Zona Rosa should
ride, including transfers, its also one of the be $2 to $2.50. Between 11pm and 6am,
worlds cheapest subways. add 20%.
All lines operate from 5am to midnight A radio taxi costs two or three times as
weekdays, 6am to midnight Saturday, and much, but the extra cost adds an immeasur-
7am to midnight Sunday. Platforms and able degree of security. Their plates begin
cars can become alarmingly packed during with S for sitio (taxi stand) and bear an
rush hours (roughly 7:30am to 10am and orange stripe. When you phone, the dis-
3pm to 8pm). At these times the forward patcher will tell you the cab number and
cars are reserved for women and children, the type of car. Hotels and restaurants can
and men may not proceed beyond the Solo call a reliable cab for you.
Mujeres y Nios gate. Some reliable radio-taxi firms, available
With such crowded conditions, its not 24 hours, are listed below. Maps in this
surprising that pickpocketing occurs, so chapter show the locations of some key
watch your belongings. sitios.
Nevertheless, the metro is easy to use. Servitaxis (%5516-6020, 5516-6034)
Lines are color-coded and each station is Sitio Parque Mxico (%5286-7129, 5286-7164)
identified by a unique logo. Signs reading Taxi-Mex (%9171-8888, 5634-9912)
Direccin Pantitln, Direccin Univer- Taxis Radio Unin (%5514-8124)
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