MXR Phase 90 Mods

Some time around when the EVH Phase 90 was brought to market, the orange reissue block
Phase 90s (with the exception of the Script logo models) began being built using SMT
components. This makes modifications a little tricky. From what I have seen, the component
numbers are not the same as earlier conventional component models. This means that R28 on a
SMT board is not the same R28 on a non-SMT board. That being said, these mods apply only to
the non-SMT component models. At some point, the block Phase 90s started being built again
with through-hole components so be sure to check yours before performing any mods. I had the
chance to modify a current (2012) Phase 90 that belongs to a friend. Photos of the Rev F board
are below showing the locations of R28, C11 and C12.

Please note before continuing that these mods will NOT turn your reissue in to a script logo
version. They will however, help improve the sound of the circuit.

The first, and most common mod, is to remove the feedback resistor, R28 (24K). This will make
it sound somewhat like the classic script version and pretty much eliminate the distorted mid-
boost. If this is not enough, then remove C11 and C12, this mod will remove the pre and de-
emphasis (noise filtering).

On the reissue board photos (below), C11 is .01uf & C12 is 680pf. R7 (150k), which controls
output level, is directly above C12 in the photo. If you remove all three (R28, C11, and C12),
lowering R7 to 130k gives unity gain in most setups. Re-adjusting the trimpot afterwards will
help too. Mark the trimpot first with an index line so you know what the original setting was.
Reissue Board
Reissue Rev F Board
Reissue Rev F Board - one leg of R28 desoldered and lifted
Switchable

If you want to add a switch to go between script and block logo with the R28 mod, follow these
steps (diagram included).

DPDT

1. Remove R28 from its current location.

2. Connect the resistor across two of the outside lugs of a DPDT on-on switch.
3. Connect a wire to each of the middle lugs.
4. Connect each wire from the middle lugs to the holes were the 24k resistor was connected
to the PCB.

SPST

1. Lift one leg of R28 from its current location.

2. Connect the resistor to the outside lug of a SPST switch.
3. Connect a wire from the middle lug to the hole were the 24k resistor was connected to the
PCB.
Output Buffer

Does your Phase 90 suck tone like a stock wah? Heres a simple and easy solution to the
problem, an output buffer. The buffer will sit between the DPDT switchs output lug and the
output jacks tip lug. The signal is then passed through the buffer and the lost high end and
definition is restored, both bypassed and when the phaser is in use.

First, choose your buffer. The smaller the better, as space is limited inside the Phase 90 enclosure
with the PCB in place. My choice was a simple IC-based buffer that I had built using a very
small and compact layout. More information on this buffer can be found on the General Guitar
Gadgets web site.

Next, wire the buffer in place. The IN and OUT refer to the buffers input and output. The ciruit
is to the bottom right of the picture, right above the battery. Its a tight fit but it works. With
longer wires and a little foam insulation it could probably be placed in a few other spots as well.
The +9V wire may need to be moved to the solder point to the left of where it is indicated in the
picture.

And finally, cut the trace connecting the DPDT switchs output lug to the output jacks tip lug. It
is circled in the photo. Use an exacto knife or sharp razor blade. The finish on these PCBs is
thick so it may take a little extra work. These are multi-layer PCBs so be careful not to go too
deep or another trace may be accidentally cut.
This is a nice alternative if you dont want to cut a section of the PCB out and put in a 3PDT,
which has been done by some, or are limited to space on your pedalboard leaving out the true
bypass box option. Its quick, simple, and effective.

Content Copyright Erik Hansen